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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. Among the 50 states. In fact. Florida. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. For anyone who loves the outdoors. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. you can have the whole wild. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. as the top tourism destination in the US. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. however. According to author John Hart. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. pausing on . But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7.500 and 10. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. About 27 million of them. bison. you’ll know better. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. These mammoths. horses. that’s good news.” and for good reason. half-pound hot dogs. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. which covers most of Nevada. In fact. giant sloths.
however. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. In the 12th century. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. In 1776. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. By about 500 AD. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. Jedediah Smith. wetlands and springs. In the south. His party wintered in California. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. The Northern Paiutes. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. shells. . These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. points. including southern Nevada. Exactly 50 years later. fish hooks. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. hand tools. followed in Garces’ footsteps. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. the first European entered Nevada. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. established trade routes. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. Many prime archeological sites.
with Brigham Young as governor. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. John C. Introduction . who would later become a war hero. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. The Comstock Lode. but abandoned it two years later. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. camping at Las Vegas. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. and. In 1830. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. Nevada became a state on Halloween. the Mormons were the first white residents. and headed over the Sierras. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. Fremont. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. By 1857. In 1845. swelling the population well into five figures. which helped open the gateway to the West. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. was dispatched to map the area. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. In 1843 and ’44. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert.History n 3 In the north. 1864. DC. encountering Pyramid Lake. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. Eight years later the first wagon train. dominated by the church. In 1833. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. the church established the State of Deseret. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. In 1859. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. continued to oversee Nevada. covering most of Utah and Nevada. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. In 1849. but the Utah Territory government. as it came to be called. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. then returned east along the route the next year. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe.
In 1874. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. Winnemucca. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. the mother of all lodes. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. began making money and the boom was on. Meanwhile. Ironically. son of Winnemucca. upscale Vegas. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. was struck in Virginia City. chief of the Northern Paiutes. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. Reno and the surrounding areas.000 people in 1960. Carson City. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. the Big Bonanza. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. signed a treaty with the federal government. In the teens and ’20s. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. particularly in southern Nevada. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. killed two-thirds of them. In 1855. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. however. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. then picked up again in the early 1900s. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. Then in 1966. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. In 1873. opened in 1950. Streets were laid out. but was ambushed. Howard Hughes sud- . Warriors under Numaga. the first true hotel-casino. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. Siegel’s vision. was of a classy. the Flamingo soon reopened. bringing town sites. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. then underground tests for 30 more. violence escalated. In 1860. later known as the Nevada Test Site. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. commerce and industry. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century.
Fallon and Mesquite. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. Mom and their 2. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. however. places like Elko. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. .3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. a land dominated by a mobile population. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. The entire West will be watching what transpires. moving to the region in record numbers. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. Winnemucca. find enough water. miners. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. To many. are reaping the windfall. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. and Americans have become moths to the flame. today there are master-planned communities. By 1970. This time. DC. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. How much is too much. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. But the explosion has not been without fallout. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. trappers. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos.
13. The roof of Nevada is 13.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. Here. Nevada even has its own 10. Fremont in 1844. In the north. Depending on who’s counting. the Carson and the Humboldt. Wheeler Peak. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea.063 feet. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork.839foot Matterhorn. Yes. The Colorado River . Get the idea? After all. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. gurgle through the northern part of the state.000 feet. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. On the other side of the state. Near Las Vegas. towers over Great Basin National Park. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. The notion of Nevada as a flat. then disappear into their respective “sinks. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Named by explorer John C. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. with nine ranges topping 11.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. down a range.000 feet to nearly 12. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada.000 feet in the space of a few miles. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. hills and uplands. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. In fact. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. then up another range. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. dry. and so on. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. lakes. across a sagebrush-covered basin. reservoirs and other watery bodies. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. down another range.
pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. Lower and drier. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. only 65.000-acre Great Basin National Park. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. natural sources of running water. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. For the greens. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. it’s an uphill climb all the way. the southeastern corner of Nevada.000 acres. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. In 1989. establishing 77. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. most notably Lake Tahoe. the largest alpine lake in North America. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed.500 square miles of western Nevada. a great inland sea that 50. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. In the 1970s. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. in the remote north near Jarbidge. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere.000 years ago covered 8. are the only reliable. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list.
then whittled that down to less than two million acres. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. In the wetter western Nevada ranges.000 feet. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. The recommendations have been under review for years. The squat Utah juniper. the soil supports . This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). with its tiny. Still. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. such as rabbitbrush. Apart from aspens. horsebrush and shadescale. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. Death Valley.000 feet above sea level. At elevations above 6. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). greasewood. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans.000 and 8. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. 14 national recreation areas. is generally found throughout the state between 5.
They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. Washoe pine. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. the official state grass. creosote bush has an oily. At the other extreme. The king of Great Basin vegetation. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth.000 feet. up to 5. prickly pear. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. the mountain lion. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. hallucinogenic sacred datura. The Joshua tree. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. which is actually a type of yucca. along with alder. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. In the mountains. The rare. however. willow and dogwood. hedgehog and barrel. which make up just 1% of the land. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. or jimson weed. Black bears. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. ponderosa pine. lodgepole pine. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. bristlecone pine. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. Above the desert floor. blooms by night here. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- .000 years.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. western white pine. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth.
along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. burrowing owl and canyon wren. also live in the Mojave. greater roadrunner. chuckwalla. Snakes include several types of rattlers. brown. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. Blacktail jackrabbits. with Lahontan cutthroat. seen on Nevada’s license plates. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. badger. Trout are the favorite of anglers. weasel. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. rainbow. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. while mule deer are abundant. America’s two poisonous spiders. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. Ironically. Gambel’s quail. fox. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. prairie falcon. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. In the air over the desert. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. Meanwhile. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. beaver. skunk. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. coyote. the black widow and brown recluse. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. golden and Dolly Varden . kangaroo rats. help comes from hunters. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. pika. redtailed hawk. The desert bighorn sheep. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. brook.
chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. culture and most attractive features. This section also includes sources for expert information. covering its history. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. broken down by specific locales. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Cowboy Country. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. on water. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. Along with detailed information on where to go. on land. such as visitors bureaus. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. on snow and in the air. Reno-Tahoe Territory. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. like almost every other Nevada visitor. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. A section on Touring follows.
. Trails may be gone. . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . . Hiking. . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . . . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . . Up to $50 per day $$ . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . . . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . . . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . . forethought and patience. . $50 to $100 $$$ . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . . . . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . . . . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . Finally. . Backpacking. . . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. .12 n Introduction ing chart. . .
The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. using the hands.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 .6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move.Easy hiking. . there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.Adventures n 13 Finally. As this guide goes to press. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.0 to . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. the most popular among serious rock climbers. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. For Class 5 routes. the lower numbers (. Class 2 .0 to . known as the Yosemite Decimal System.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . occasionally using hands Class 4 .14 (and sometimes beyond).Boulder hopping. so help is usually a long way away. ranging from .Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .Climbing. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible.
dehydration and lightning. n n n n n . then amended by subsequent climbers. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. Begin hiking early in the day. not hard-and-fast rules. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. As with all outdoor activities. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. By their nature. taking into account personal experience. If the plan changes. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. Beyond that. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle.10. Pack spare everything – food. In the arid country of Nevada. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. clothing. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. Storms are more common in the afternoon. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. Give them descriptions of yourself. use common sense before you get into trouble. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. climbing partners. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. until all holds disappear at . and the weather when determining the safest course of action. Don’t travel alone. Assistance can take hours or days. Be aware of conditions. legend. Always take fresh water with you. climbers enter the realm of myth.
Arizona. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. four-wheel-drive vehicle.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. . They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. Not one of those trendy. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. jack. spare belts. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. high-clearance job. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. but a powerful. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. water and fluids. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. preferably one with a large gas tank. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. tools. extra gas. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market.
Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. AZ. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. 85096. Do not ration water. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. stay on it. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. leave a note telling searchers who you are. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. however. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. stay put. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. n If water is in limited supply. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. Phoenix.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. n If you have water. . PO Box 39340. The rest of Nevada. of course. drink it as needed. in wilderness areas). n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. minimize talking and eating. For more information on desert survival. Mountain biking in Nevada. n If you find a traveled road. left out of popular literature. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. is more popular than ever. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. when you left and where you are headed. contact DARES.
the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. Fishing. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. there are tourists. lakes and reservoirs. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Many streams. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. Skydiving. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. Meanwhile. Ballooning. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. At these higher elevations. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. there are all types of sky-high adventures. the gem of the Sierras. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Soaring Where there is Vegas. and gigantic Lake Mead. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. And where there are tourists. but take extra care.
hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. For those who like to watch. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. These storms are known to appear with little warning. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. get out of lowlying areas. temperatures above 110° are common. If thunderstorms threaten. but despite the obvious danger. throwing rain. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. . In the Great Basin. Flashfloods are the predictable result. Leave the high altitudes as well. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. although they can occur at any time of year.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. Laughlin. on the Colorado River. Summer and early fall can be blistering.
travelnevada. % 800-NEVADA-8. 84401. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. rainy and occasionally snowy. 1263 South Stewart Street. % 702234-7331. Capitol Complex. Carson City. Baker. 1100 Valley Road. 1300 South Curry Street. Nevada Department of Transportation. Intermountain Region. windy. % 702-688-1500. In southern Nevada. NV 89710. Nevada Division of Wildlife. Reno. Nevada Commission on Tourism. NV 89502. % 702-785-6500. In the mountains. Bureau of Land Management. For information on specific locales. basin winters can be chilly. 850 Harvard Way. Nevada Division of State Parks. too. NV 89311. % 801-625-5182. UT. In the north. NV 89703. Carson City. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. Carson City. NV 89712. see the listings that accompany each chapter. 324 25th Street. . Great Basin National Park. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter.com. www. % 702-687-4384. Ogden. Reno. US Forest Service. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. % 702-687-4219. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. NV 89520. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months.
If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure.000-year-old petroglyphs. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada.000-foot peak. try hiking to an 11. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. Inside the city limits. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. closer. . Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. in plain view of the casinos. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. both prehistoric and otherwise. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. cheap food. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. lounge shows – and recently. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
1 PM to 5 PM. Seasonal streams. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. % 702-798-5595.95 for seniors and students. 9 AM to 9 PM. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks.50 for seniors. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. but no less extravagant. call % 702-895-3801. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. $3. 8 AM to 5 PM. Ham Concert Hall. 10 AM to 5 PM. Yes. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). Admission is $4. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. Dedicated to Mr. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. actual cosmopolitan. Showmanship. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. Just off the glittering Strip.95 for adults. is the Liberace Museum. giant. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. features work by students.95 for adults. The tax-deductible admission is $6. % 702-363-1921. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. % 702-895-3893.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. % 702-895-3011. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. Southeast of the Strip. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. Sunday. $4. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. faculty and invited artists. % 702-895-3381. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . The Barrick Museum of Natural History. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM.
the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. trail rides and a “real” Western town. The admission is $5 per vehicle. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. The park is open daily. 5 PM in the winter. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. 8 AM to sunset. under Adventures on Foot. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat.) The best time to take the 13-mile. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. The park is open daily. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. wife of a German munitions tycoon. petting zoo. Today there is a restaurant. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. saloon. Charleston. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. Admission is $4. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. one-way loop drive is early morning. 8 AM to 5 PM. 8 AM to 11 PM. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). % 702-875-4141. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . Back on US 95. have been unearthed here. The restaurant and bar are open daily. later during summer months. With structures dating back to 1864. (See below. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. % 702-486-5413. The park is open daily. % 702-875-4191. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. the road to Mt. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. 7 AM to dusk.
(See below. under On Wheels. under On Foot.) Pitch a tent. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. (See below. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. % 702385-2SKI.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. elevation 11. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. overnight hump to Charleston Peak.) . 17-mile. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. % 702-646-3401. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. Charleston Lodge.918 feet. completing the Mt.000 vertical feet of runs. under Adventures and Camping. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. % 702-872-5408. The 1. Charleston Loop. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. desolate valley.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. (See below. At the northern edge of the reservation. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. % 702-872-5500. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. In the winter. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. and its 1. Nevada’s state animal. Charleston Hotel. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. under Camping. Bighorn sheep. see below under On Snow. % 702-872-7098. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. the Mt. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill.) After the hike. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. (See below. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains.
% 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. Airlines Air 21. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-538-5494 Midway.
% 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-785-8578 Alamo.
1830 South Boulder Highway. NV 89109. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. % 702-294-1888. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. Gray Line Tours. Admission is $1.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. The museum is open daily. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. . % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. % 702-455-7955. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. stopping downtown.50 for adults. $1 for seniors and children under 16. On the north side of Boulder City. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. NV 89109. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. 444 Hotel Plaza. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. Call % 800USA-RAIL. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. % 702-735-1616. 3150 Paradise Road. 711 East Desert Inn Road. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. % 800-332-5333. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. Did it work? Judge for yourself.
Hoover also created Lake Mead. % 702-565-8591. $2. wetting 822 miles of shoreline.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. and 45 feet thick at the top. Las Vegans. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. Hoover Dam took 5. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. swimming. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. 500 South Boulder Highway. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce.) Be sure to heed the . % 702-293-2034. 89005. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. (See On Water below.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. Phoenix and Los Angeles. boating and diving. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. fishing. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. The cost is $5 for adults. All of 726 feet high. 89105. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. Holding about 9 trillion gallons.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. 660 thick at the base. for information on camping. head back toward Boulder City. % 702-293-8907. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. 100 Nevada Highway. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. Children under 10 are free.
From the visitor center. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. Beyond here. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. The displays in the visitor center. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. Back on Nevada 167. explain the geology and forces of erosion. a public swimming and boating area. which rests on the Virgin River. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. % 702-293-6180. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). Cruises range from midday trips ($14.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. % 702-397-2088. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. thank you. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). nearly five miles off the highway. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. Just beyond the bay. Go straight to reach Henderson. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. .
in Bullhead City. % 520-754-4606. a campground and marina. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. constructed his Riverside Casino. Arizona. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. The museum is open Monday through Friday. bar and bait shop. (For details on all three. South of here is camping.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. Nevada’s record-high temperature. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. Named for a brand of matches. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. 355 Highway 95. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. Admission is a $1 donation. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. see below. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. East of Searchlight 14 miles. 9 AM to 5 PM. under Adventures. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. the town was a gold. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. % 702-297-1464. % 520-754-3272. 9 AM to 1 PM.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. % 520-754-3399. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. % 520-754-3628. relives those days. on Lake Mojave. Saturday. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. 125°. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains.000 visitors a month. with motel. % 702-297-1682. % 800-46-4584 .) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. campground and fishing and swimming spots.
% 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 702-876-3380. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. as many as 6. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. % 702-798-6405. % 800-227-5245. May is the busiest month. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. In Laughlin. 1555 South Casino Drive. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. Special Events February In February. % 800-736-6247 United Express. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. % 310-448-1822. host- .Special Events n 35 Reno Air. % 800-227-5254. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days.
a confluence of Southern Paiute. the Parade of Lights. to the campus of UNLV. to downtown. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. to the waters of Lake Mead. % 702-2939256. Later in the month. % 702-8953900. % 702434-0848. a three-day balloon rally. % 702-898-6565. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. Another balloon festival. blows in.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. take place in Boulder City. takes place in Vegas. % 702-457-5775. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. also takes place in October. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. % 702-4541212. % 702-631-7000. % 702-293-4857. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. % 702-457-2797. . October Art in the Park. August In August. Navaho and Mojave peoples. % 702-293-2034. to town. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. % 702-452-8066. % 800-637-1006. the International Black Heritage Festival. % 702-386-3926. and the National Finals Rodeo. the Las Vegas Classic. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. floats into Laughlin. % 800-227-5245. % 702687-5777. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-293-1611. % 702-870-1221.
9). so take extra precautions when adventuring here. especially in winter months. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. is to mountain bikers. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year.11+). Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. Utah.11). Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. To the west. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. Sheep Trail (5. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5.9) has 1.7) crag and mixed climbing walls.12a). One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5.11). The area gets only four inches of rain a year. Chicken Eruptus (5. At the end of a 90-minute approach. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. Red Rock attracts free climbers. Graveyard Waltz (5.11d) offers more advanced routes. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Other routes in- . Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. At nearby Willow Springs.11). Crimson Chrysalis (5. in fact. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many.11b). that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. so chalk often stays put for months.8). Stratocaster (5. The Choad Warrior (5.
Volume 1 by John Harlin III. consult the Bible of local climbers. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley.000 feet. to savor the 300-mile views. See Outfitters. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus.6). toward a ridge at 11. page 41.000 feet in four miles.10 or 5. About seven miles from the visitor center. elevation 11. an easy six-mile round-trip. gaining 3. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. ending at a small dam and the spring. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. .8) and Eagle Dance (5. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. Chockstone Press. 17 miles round-trip.12).000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. published by the American Alpine Club. The 3. The trail switchbacks time and again.918 feet.000 feet. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. At the aforementioned fork. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. Following the fork. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. & For more information. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. Rainbow Buttress (5. The South Loop Trail.
Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas.000 feet above the desert. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. thunderstorms and snow. To the northwest. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. gaining 1. contact the US Forest Service. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. Never take these altitudes lightly. For trail information and weather and safety updates. At lower elevations. Beginning on a dirt road. Mountain T Ranch. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. covering two miles and gaining 1. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead.000 feet to a saddle. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. the trail climbs 1.000 feet into the northeastern sky. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge.4 miles. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. . Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany.
outlines the easiest route. . Falcon Press Publishing. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. 89137. turn right. PO Box 80875. % 702-223-2176. 89180. Just south of this outcrop.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. Las Vegas. % 702-364-8687. % 702-254-5604. 89124. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. and park at the end of the road. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Sports & Adventure Tours. PO Box 1. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. Rocky Trails. HCR 33. Suite 4. climb a gully to reach a ridge. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. % 888-86ROCKY. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. % 702-596-2953. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. then go northwest to another plateau. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. Bruce Grubbs. Stay below the northern peaks. Climb northward up the slope. heading for the northernmost outcropping. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. which is marked by a post. ascending northwest. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. % 702-434-3388.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Las Vegas.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard.2 miles. PO Box 371324. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. go 6. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. Las Vegas 89117.
n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. % 702362-7177. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . % 702-2567433. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. 4065 East Patrick Lane. % 702-252-7114. can arrange a covered wagon trip. however. Las Vegas. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods.6 mile to a dirt road. 617 Hoover Avenue. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. Silver State Old West Tours. Peak Sports. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. Cowboy Trail Rides. % 702-254-1143. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. Wagons West. % 702-649-6819. % 702387-2457. At mile post 17. 89132. % 702-875-1978. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. % 702-798-6565. PO Box 19210. % 702-383-0838. Desert Rock Sports. Hahn’s World of Surplus. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. Armed . % 702-458-8870. Desert Outfitting.
Turn right. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. At the road. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. After beginning another climb. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. PO Box 26589. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. For a tamer road trip. 4765 Vegas Drive. flying downhill and then up to another road. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. . zoom downhill to the fork. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. scanning for a cairn on the left. Head downhill. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. % 702-647-5000. heading uphill. go to the next intersection. and pump uphill. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. A double track soon appears on the right. Go left here. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. NV 89126. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. make a quick right and head downhill. turn left to another intersection and turn right. before heading out. a six-mile loop. Las Vegas. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. Turn right.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). turn right. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. For a more challenging excursion. contact the Bureau of Land Management. Take this until you reach a double track. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. Ride until you see a cairn on the left.
% 702-642-2453. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-876-8687. the byway forks. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. R&R Cycling. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. At about the 10-mile mark. % 702-451-9586. Las Vegas Bikes USA. % 702-596-2953. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. Escape the City Streets. Ski Chalet. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. . One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. % 702-646-3401. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. Turn left to return to US 15. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. Downhill Bicycle Tours. % 702-8978287. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. % 702-252-8077. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. 7934 Cadenza Lane. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. 16 Cottonwood Drive. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue.
n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. 2810 South Highland Drive. Rebel Adventure Tours. 89101. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. 713 East Ogden Street. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. Old West Territory Tours. % 702-380-6969. is on the premises. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. 3700 Flamingo Road. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. % 702-646-8800. maps and more information on backcountry byways. crystal-clear hotel pool. of all places. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. It begins. % 888-REELRIO. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. . The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. 8 AM to 11 AM. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. 4765 West Vegas Drive. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. Las Vegas. Suite B.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. % 702-796-9355. an avid angler for more than 50 years. % 702-454-5555. For details.
under Boating Outfitters. instruction and gear. powerboats and cruisers. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road).500-acre ranch in Utah. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River.) Swimming. about three miles across at its widest point. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. % 800-34-SCUBA. The expert staff is available seven days a week. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. Thomas. and two. Forever Resorts. offering professional advice. . Boulder Beach. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. rents houseboats. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. jet skiing. Off Nevada 167. meals and overnight lodging for $449. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. flows into Lake Mead. For details. % 800-2555561. (See below. water skiing. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds).to three-days notice is required. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. largemouth bass and trout. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St.
Lake Mojave Farther south. PO Box 100. % 702-252-7114. 322 Lake Shore Road. % 702-754-3245. particularly near cliffs. Lake Mead Cruises. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. The cost is about $65 per person. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. offers trips from January through November. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. 89006. PO Box 62465. Las Vegas. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. % 800-696-RAFT. Near Laughlin. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. % 702-565-8958.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702-2931190. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. 89006. Return transportation is provided by bus. 89124. 89102. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. is the local fishing and boating hub. PO Box 61235. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. Las Vegas. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. % 702-293-6180. Calville Bay Resort. HCR 30. .
PO Box 29279. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. % 800-228-9825. 89028. % 702-5659111. % 702-564-5660. 520-758-6242. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. % 702-388-1022. % 702297-1464. Laughlin. Fiesta Queen Cruises. PO Box 29279. 89040. Sunset Bait & Tackle. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702-459-2080. Overton. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. . 1000 Cottonwood Cove. % 702-452-8299. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. Laughlin River Tours. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. % 702-437-9283. AZ. Overton. % 702565-0696. 89040. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. Bullhead City. % 702-3944000. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. Tom’s Water Skiing. 1450 Newberry Drive. 89029. Clearwater Flyfishing. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. % 702-433-3263. 4290 Boulder Highway. Overton Beach Marina. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information.
noon to 9 PM. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. 68 Mallory Road. % 702-565-8396. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. % 702-871-1399. citing growing noise problems. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. however. complete with guided ground tours and meals. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. Karen Jones. Even more memorable. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. 810 Circus Circus Drive. A jump is $59.J. Utah. With commercial balloon tours. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. Saturday until midnight. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Henderson Bill Spellman.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. HB Fishing Guide Service. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. Hackett Bungy. The company claims more than 500. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. 3800. Arizona and Zion. % 702-5657583. 161 East Rancho Drive. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. % 702-451-4004. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. ext. % 702-434-0848. % 702-564-1558. 1500 Palomino Drive. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. Jim Goff. % 702-385-4321. .
Air Vegas Airlines. Eagle Canyon Airlines. 89005. Las Vegas Airlines. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. #115-200. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. % 702-877-1010. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. NV 89019. Las Vegas. % 702-385-2SKI. 200 Convention Center Drive. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. % 702-736-0013. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. Set at a base elevation of 8. % 702-221-9199. Jean. % 800-634-6851. % 800-216-8330. 2705 Airport Drive. % 800-8-SKYDIV. 806 Buchanan Street. % 800-446-4584. Skydive Las Vegas. % 800-359-8727.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. NV 89117. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs.ultimateballoonadven. 241 East Reno Avenue. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. PO Box 19629.com. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. Heli USA. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . An all-day lift ticket runs $27. D&R Balloons. King Airelines. % 800-535-4448. Web site www. Boulder City. % 800-634-6377. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. % 702-293-1860. 3275 Rosanna Street. Las Vegas. Scenic Airlines. Sundance Helicopters. 806 Buchanan Street. 89109.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. Jean Airport. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. % 800-255-7474. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters.
18 East Fremont Street. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. % 702-385-5200. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. if possible. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. For more serious snow. % 702-385-1664.000-room MGM Grand.000 techies to Sin City. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. The place was once part-owned by in- . opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. All they do is take up space. are booked solid on weekends. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. But somehow. % 702-646-0008. $-$$$. it seems. Above all. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. 600 East Fremont Street. After all.000 visitors. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. 2395 North Rancho Road. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. even behemoths like the 5. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. HO TE L Many hotels.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. % 800-272-7426. luring 200. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. $-$$. over 100.
If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. $-$$. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. % 702-731-7110. The Four Queens. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. % 702-386-2110. % 702-732-5111. $$-$$$$. South of here. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. 202 East Fremont Street. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South.037 rooms. however. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 128 East Fremont Street. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. way out there. $$$$$. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. $-$$. dominate the Strip. and New York. the Flamingo. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. % 702-385-4011. The movie Rainman was shot here. New York is out there. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. The faux volcano. New York. has 1. $$-$$$$. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. $$-$$$$. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. Monte Carlo. If staring at wealth is your thing. Down the street. Across the street is the green giant. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. The Mirage. 3000 Paradise Road. The Golden Nugget. is a crowd-pleaser. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. % 702-740-NYNY. 1 Main Street. $$$-$$$$. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). Caesars Palace. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. $$-$$$$. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. % 702-3821600. $$-$$$$. % 702-894-7111. 129 East Fremont Street. the MGM Grand. across from the Fashion Show Mall. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. % 702-791-7171. % 702-740-NYNY. Even by Vegas standards. Next door is the Island’s big sister. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. $$-$$$. % 702-385-7111. who built the first casino resort. the young upstarts. New York.
% 702-872-5500.000. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. positively sedate with its 5. On the outskirts of Vegas. which eliminates Reno.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. At this book goes to press. contact the Chamber of Commerce. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue.500 rooms. has 2. % 702-872-5408. % 702-735-1616. % 702-875-4400.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. set at 7. contrary to popular belief. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. Charleston Hotel. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. In the Spring Mountains. but don’t count on that for long. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. Bonnie Springs Motel. while Bellagio will boast 3. % 702-262-4555. the Mt. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. three Motel 6s. $-$$. Charleston Resort. . too. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. % 800-634-3988. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. $$-$$$$. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. TIP Laughlin For the most part. $$-$$$$. $-$$$. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park.000 visitors a month and climbing. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas.
Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. The Edgewater. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. % 702-298-2453. 1900 South Casino Drive. Eurasian mélange. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. both at the MGM Grand. in the Las Vegas Hilton. Off the main drags. contact the Chamber of Commerce. classy Hugo’s Cellar. % 702-733-3111. $-$$. Downtown at the Four Queens. % 702-3807711. % 702-298-2535. $$$$. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. % 702-298-4200. % 702-298-7111. % 702-298-2214. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. % 702-298-4000. serves upscale Italian fare. % 702735-8686. 1350 East Flamingo Road. On the Strip. has 1. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour.000 rooms. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. $-$$$. % 702-298-4600. At the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-252-7777. % 702-891-7374. and very expensive. % 702-891-7337. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. % 702-298-5111. To really dine UPtown. and Harrah’s. 401 South 6th Street. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. The Ramada Express. $-$$$. and Gatsby’s. 2100 South Casino Drive. Emeril’s. Café Michelle. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. Andre’s. % 702-385-5016.500 rooms. $-$$$. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 202 Fremont Street. 2300 South Casino Drive. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Andiamo. sports a railroad theme. 3700 West Flamingo Road. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. the Flamingo Hilton. 1650 Casino Drive. opened in 1990. After a few meals at most of these troughs. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. 2121 South Casino Drive. while the Golden Nugget. 2000 South Casino Drive. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. % 702-732-5111. % 702-385-4011. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . $-$$. $-$$. 2900 South Casino Drive. An excellent buffet. while the Colorado Belle. offers 2. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. Nearby. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. Hamada. however.
boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. having opened in 1932. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. Suite Z. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. The elevation here ranges between 7. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. is the oldest restaurant in the city. The Green Shack.000 and 8. Charleston. % 702-382-1644. serves fine steaks and seafood.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. Fong’s. 2504 East Fremont. All five campgrounds have piped water. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. % 702-693-5000. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. For information. Near the end of Nevada 157. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. . which. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. 4455 Paradise Road. in the shadow of Mt. Chin’s. seven days a week. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-2984600. Phillip’s Supper House. is the most popular Chinese place in town. For a Latin taste. serves hip. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. while moderately pricey. call % 702-873-8800. although the Lodge. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. 308 West Sahara Avenue. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr.400 feet. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. % 702-363-1921. % 702-384-4470. % 702-794-0700. % 702-298-2242. For satisfying American favorites. as the name implies. Kyle Canyon. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. % 702-383-0007. 3900 Paradise Road. Chicken is the house specialty. so be prepared for extreme weather. % 702-873-5222. % 702733-8899.
% 520-7544606. In Valley of Fire State Park. On the Virgin River to the north. Moving north from Boulder City. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. north of town on Lake Mojave. % 520-754-3272. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. call % 702-646-3401. For information. there’s Boulder Beach. On the north shore. To the east of Vegas. Across the river from the Strip. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. Las Vegas Territory . Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. Calville Bay has 80 sites.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. % 702-397-2088. For information on all five locations.
still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. With a surface elevation of more than 7. just east of the California-Nevada border.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. Las Vegas. Rose resorts. Reno. Heavenly and Mt. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. The Truckee River. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. At the heart of this region. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. In the winter. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada.000 feet. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. Of course. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. and for good reason. the largest alpine lake in North America.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. the city of Reno is the .
. Just south of Carson City. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. where everyone expects Ben. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. an ancient. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. Pyramid Lake. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. on the shores of Washoe Lake. About 30 miles north of Reno. are walks back in time. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. The place dates back to 1851. Today this mirage-come-true. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. which meanders – sometimes wet. Washoe Lake State Park. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. Farther south. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. 8. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. North of Pyramid Lake. Fort Churchill. meanwhile. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. The Carson River. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. Farther east of Carson City.
and in 1859 C. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. In 1852. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. North Virginia Street. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. From Reno. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. for a schedule. In 1863. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. H. Like Vegas. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. the city continues to grow rapidly.H. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . which hosts special events in warmer months. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. % 800-FOR-RENO. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. there isn’t a glass pyramid. No. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. or at least slow. From here. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. From Carson City.W.
Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. From a historical point of view. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. this is it. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. .
has been at that location since 1946. % 702-7855961. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. but call first for hours. The Nevada Historical Society. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. turn right. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. (See below under On Foot.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. And the Keck Minerals Museum. April through October. is also located here. To get there. Fleischmann Planetarium. houses one of the world’s best collections. When arms get tired. Reno-Tahoe Territory . 1650 North Virginia Street. % 702784-4812. 10 South Lake Street. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. % 702-334-2600. Animal Ark Nature Center. boasts three treasures. 1502 North Washington Street. a nifty historical theme park. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. Great Basin Adventure. % 702-788-3773. 1265 Deerlodge Road. The staff welcomes visitors daily. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. 300 North Center Street. On the suburban south side of Reno. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. On the northern outskirts of the city. is a well-known. the campus of the University of Nevada. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. including black bears and kit foxes. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. % 702-784-4528. May Museum and Arboretum.) The Wilbur D. On the north side of the city. % 702-688-1190. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. % 702-333-9300. the National Automobile Museum. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. % 702-969-3111. About 10 minutes north of the university. houses a theater and telescope.
% 800-221-1212. TriStar Airlines. % 800-654-7037. % 800-231-2222. % 800-453-9417. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. Delta Air Lines. % 800-218-8777. No Stress Express. If you don’t have a car. % 800-426-7000. Greyhound Lines. Reno Air. Lloyd’s International. Southwest Airlines. % 800-736-6247. TWA. % 800-359-2472. % 702-882-3375. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-221-2000. Northwest Airlines. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. Budget. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Canadian Airlines. % 800-367-2277. % 800-CAR-RENT. % 800-527-0700. % 800-235-9292. National. Hertz. % 800-325-8007. America West Airlines. . Thrifty. United Airlines. % 800-331-1212. Airlines Air 21. % 702-328-6400. Dollar. % 800-654-3131. Enterprise. % 800-800-4000. % 800-435-9792.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. Avis. % 800-225-2525. K-T Services. Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-241-6522. Alaska Airlines.
which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. local. control erosion and acquire open land. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. All told. NV 89505. is a study in contrast. % 702-686-3030. Reno. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. in his journal Roughing It. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. 4590 South Virginia Street. In reality. the waters are now finding friends in high places. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. provides an interesting mix of adventures. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. 405 Marsh Avenue. a marvelous intermingling of water. Fortunately. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . Reno. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. In 1861. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. % 702-329-2936. trees and sky. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. At press time. but the future of the Basin itself. 98 Colony Road. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. rock.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. year-round outdoor playgrounds. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. % 800-FOR-RENO. restore forest and watersheds. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. respectively. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. NV 89502.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
along the eastern shoreline. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. with its full slate of running water. But in between them. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. stands out amid the pines. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. restrooms and picnic areas. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. Viewed from the highway. Admission is $8. (See below. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. under On Foot. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. The north end of the beach. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. % 702-831-0691. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. After the buzz of the ranch. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. at 10.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. % 702-831-0494. Reno-Tahoe Territory .) Up the twisting NV 431. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. is a welcome respite.50 for adults. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. % 702-849-2511. The beaches are open daily. open May through November. The park.50 for kids. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. $5. called Diver’s Cove. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park.776 feet. is well-known to snorkelers. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. Three miles south of Incline Village. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28.
CA. under On Snow.) For the unmechanized. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite.50 per adult. $6 per child. (See below. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. under Adventures and Accommodations. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. offices and shops. then into the broad Washoe Valley. The price for such sloth is $10. restaurants. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. Every summer. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. Sailing. % 800-AT-TAHOE. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. At Tahoe Village. under On Snow). A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. Stateline. also offers excursions. PO Box 7139. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . NV 89449. Booming in the winter (see below. The day-use fee is $5. canoeing. This is the home port of the Dixie II. % 702-588-4591. PO Box 16299. South Lake Tahoe. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority.250 feet in five minutes. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. % 702588-3508. For information. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. (See below. a nature trail circles the lake. May through November.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. horseback riding.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. 96151. % 702588-3000. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. condos. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. % 916-583-9048.
Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. pages 83. the mansion and all its furnishings. Washoe Lake covers about 3. US 395 slides southwest. the world’s largest silver strike. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. % 702-849-0201. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. 87 and 98). but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. During the wet season. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. off NV 429. About 15 miles south of Reno. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. Camping. was hit a year later in Virginia City. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. The original owners.000 acres. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. When the Comstock Lode. About 30 miles south of Reno. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. and on weekends between May and October. windsurfing. boating. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. % 702-687-4319.” On Halloween in 1864. one mile south of Washoe City. The park’s centerpiece. under Adventures. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. a hunt that lasted 20 years. Bowers Mansion County Park. Washoe Lake. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. 1851. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. Bowers Mansion. (See below. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. the boom rolled in at full throttle. eventually lost their silver fortune. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. site of Washoe Lake State Park. In November. camping and hiking (see below.
The Capitol Building & Museum. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. in fact. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. 600 North Carson Street. 101 North Carson Street. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. yearround. Admission is $3. Just east of the Capitol. % 702-687-5160.” In fact. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. 100 Stewart Street. exhibits of native fauna. which was opened in 1886. excepting state holidays. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. The library contains the original state constitution. Unlike most Western capitals. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. Open Monday through Friday. the Nevada State Library & Archives. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. . Headquartered in nearby Minden. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. Located in the Carson City Mint building. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. the Capitol is open daily. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Call for schedules and pick-up points. % 702687-5030. % 702-884-3450. % 702-687-4810. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. It’s so open.
% 702-884-2226. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. The Roberts House Museum. and Bender House (1874). The building now houses a live theater. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. 1536 South Carson Street.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. Charles-Muller Hotel. 5366 Snyder Avenue. The staff can provide trail maps. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. 2180 South Carson Street. % 702-883-1976. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . Samuel. That classic journal. Admission is $2. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. the Carson City Brewing Company. Admission is $4 for adults.50. The Orion Clemens House. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. The office is closed Sundays. The museum is filled with period furniture. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). 502 North Division Street. % 702-687-6953. books and permits for the surrounding area. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 448 West King Street. On the suburban south side of Carson City. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. Bliss Mansion. Admission is $2. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. Two blocks north. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. was named for its original occupant. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. % 702-882-1808. 1207 North Carson Street. $2 for kids. 302 South Carson Street. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 813 North Carson Street. % 702-887-2174. Roughing It. % 702-826-2766. train rides are extra. The St. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. The Stewart Indian Museum. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. Visitors can ride daily during summer months.
Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. 3. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. Guests can enjoy the water. The museum is open daily. where he is buried. As of presstime. at the foot of the Carson Range. now long gone. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. The place saw Nevada’s first house. Up the street. % 702-687-7410. California. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. opened in 1863. the first permanent white settlement in the state. 2001 Foothill Road. Carson City. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. saunas. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. Before the school closed in 1980. NV 89701. Daily admission is $12. Across the street. 1900 South Carson Street. Walley’s. first opened to tourists in 1862. May through October. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. . is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. to Genoa.000 students had walked its halls. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. % 702-782-4325. lies Genoa. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. The roots go back to 1851. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. % 702-782-8155. May through October. weight room and tennis courts year-round. Genoa Bar.
resting precariously . which climbs up a narrow. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. valleys. % 702-266-3343. Their riches. % 702-782-3133. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. Just down US 395. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. their sweat. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. 1477 Highway 395. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 1440 Highway 395.200acre beauty set at 5. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. About three miles south of Gardnerville. The otherwise barren hills.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. Leaving Carson City. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. about eight miles south of Carson City. Housed in the 1915 high school building. % 702-782-2555. Virginia City. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. the highway hits Topaz Lake. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. including Western art and portraiture. Finally. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. boxing memorabilia. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. circus items. and their spirit built the Silver State. Beyond NV 341. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. Minden was founded in 1904. a 1. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. where it intersects with NV 341. Gardnerville in 1879. In Gardnerville. of all places. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino.
from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish.000 a ton in silver. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. Admission is $3. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. Today. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. underground mine tours. The building is open daily. is a looming. The Marshall Mint Museum.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. Up C Street. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. . with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. and within four years. At the south end of town. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. % 702847-0975. % 702-847-0757. % 702-847-0777. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. Here. Not recommended for claustrophobes. Admission prices range from donations to $3. May through October. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. more than 15. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. The Comstock Lode had been struck. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street.000 lived in Virginia City. leave regularly. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46.
Open daily. The Way It Was Museum. is definitely not for the puritan. June through October. including an old jukebox and player pianos. Admission is $2. 3.50.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. lives on in two buildings. The memory of Samuel Clemens. The headstones and gravesites. % 702-847-9394. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. % 702847-0275. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. Finally. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Its extravagant interior. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. % 702-847-0525. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. has a more eclectic collection. % 702-8470830. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. is open daily. % 702-847-0454. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. Admission is $2. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. % 702-8470333. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. for a ride into yesterday. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. After she was murdered in 1867. complete with ornate chandeliers. windswept plateau. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. Mark Twain’s Memories. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. a room in the basement of a saloon.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. The Mark Twain Museum. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. % 702-847-0766. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room.
74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. After about eight miles. number about 30. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. little more than a few walls remain. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. There is also a developed campground. After another 20 miles. appears in Palomino Valley. including Odeon Hall. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. % 702-577-2345. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. % 702-673-1150. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. or mustangs. Today. Past the intersection with NV 431. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. wild horses. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. % 702-847-0311. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. The Byway’s terminus. then exit at NV 445.
From Nixon.000 BC. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. site of the ranger station. Spreading north and east. Fremont. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. or dry lake bed. thus christening the 27-mile-long. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. of course. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. Camping. Nearby. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. nine-mile-wide watering hole. since at least 9. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. % 702-476-1156. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. campground. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. % 702-547-0187. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. according to artifacts found in local caves. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. Tribe members administer recreation activities. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . selling permits and running fish hatcheries. store and museum. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. Just north of the marina.182 feet) to the west. boating and fishing are extra. Another 25 miles north via paved. A reservation was formalized in 1874. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. this is the place to do it – unless. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. They will provide directions and hours of operation. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. the world’s largest playa. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. continues to surround the lake. boat ramp. the road passes Wino. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. If losing yourself is your goal. Today.
The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. birds of prey.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. preparedness is imperative. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. Besides antelope. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. about one mile south of NV 140. caution and common sense are key to traveling. spare tire. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. and carry enough water. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. songbirds. tow chain. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. even with one. A shovel. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. on 575. % 503-947-3315. Help can be a long way away. . Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. Again. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. TAKE CARE In this region.
% 702-883-1352. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. Reno also . % 702-782-2211. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. bills itself as the “Wildest. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. % 702-353-2291. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. In Gardnerville. The Way It Was Rodeo. water. % 702-847-0311. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. % 702-847-7500. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. % 702-829-1955. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. Night Curves. the Pony Express Re-Ride. In Reno. with food. In Virginia City. % 702-882-1808. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. % 800-FOR-RENO. Carson Valley Days. % 702-687-7410. a rolling custom car show. is a rip-snortin’ affair. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. % 702-882-1283. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. heats up. % 702-588-6211. % 702-265-5281. Richest Rodeo in the West. % 702-588-9658. % 702-782-2444. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. % 702-329-7469. % 702-329-3877. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. is held in Sparks. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. % 702-882-1802. In Carson City.
% 702-782-9711. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. the notorious Burning Man Festival. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. the Nevada State Fair. and the National Championship Air Races. In Incline Village. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. come to Virginia City along with a parade. % 702-827-7603. % 702-882-1565. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. Street Vibrations. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. % 702-786-5700. % 702-832-1606. In the skies. gather in Minden. and the Nevada Day Parade. deconstructionist Woodstock. takes place in Carson City. % 800-535-3045. % 702-329-1476. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. The Great Italian Festival.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-826-1181. attracts American Indians from many Western states. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. the Native American Snow Dance. % 702-972-6663. % 702-688-5767. % 702-847-0311. is held in Reno. On the Black Rock Desert. a sort of post-modern. . % 702-885-6939. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. % 702-329-7469.
& A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. . including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border.11c and heavier. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. including Jello Wars (5. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. 1994. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50.11a). The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. so dress appropriately. There are 10 routes. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. At the five-mile mark. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground.11a and 5. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. all 5. After crossing Galena Creek. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. then climbs to a saddle.12a opportunities. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. whips around a peak. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. including Asylum (5. however. Farther south.11d) and Slayer (5.000 feet. Falcon Press Publishing. Overhangs present experts with 5. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. There are more than 20 routes. are more chilling than the mountain air.14a).776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage.
but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. climbing 3. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. so call first. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. Since the slide. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. % 702-847-WALK. as are group tours. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. NV 431. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. The trail parallels Ophir Creek.300 feet in just six miles. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. . The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. Hours are seasonal. offers a beautiful willow. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. This hike is certainly strenuous. including great blue herons and birds of prey. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size.260 feet. After another mile. The charge for adults is $12. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. for children $5. The trail ends at a highway.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. elevation 8. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. % 702-6881893. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake.
is a good overnight point. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. OR 97441. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. . who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. Mahogany Mountain. To reach the trailhead. % 916-279-6101. Stevens Camp. Madras. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. The trail. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. As this is being written.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. For more information. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. For travel information. contact the BLM. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. write them at PO Box 20991. Yellow Hills East. For more information. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. great horned owls and other birds of prey. as are 7. From here. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. CA 94620. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. For road conditions and closures. Oakland. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove.
Reno. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. % 702-322-9559. 8550 White Fir Street. % 702-746-6878. % 702-333-6795. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. % 702-851-1924. to the soaring summit at 9. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left.397 feet. NV 89502. jogs through alpine meadows. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. Patagonia Outlet. Sparks. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail.200 lung-burning feet. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. backpackers and photographers. 20 Daylily Court. % 702-623-1500. Nevada Guide Service. Reno. 490 Kietzke Lane. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. terminus of the fairly flat. but they might also offer their services to hikers.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Incline Village. NV 89450. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. Outdoor Adventures. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. % 702-832-5231. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. NV 89436. Look for the Knott Creek sign. A steep. % 702-626-6916. Silver State Outfitters. Bighorn Outfitting. . NV 89511. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. 1135 Terminal Way. Denio Junction. 3335 Vista Boulevard. gaining 2. PO Box 6145. The lakes. On the east side of the reservoir. #111.
The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. After about three miles. offers ranch day trips. % 702-8252855. In the highlands near Mount Rose. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. % 702-849-9651. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. 1941 North Carson Street. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. Near Washoe Lake State Park.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. 4375 South Carson Street. Sierra Spirit Ranch. the trail makes a high-altitude. % 702588-5664. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 1675 East 4th Street. 155 East Moana Lane. 4339 South Carson Street. % 702-885-7773. and offers picnic rides. Zephyr Cove Stables. In all four cases. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . Sporting Rage. % 702-849-1020. % 702-323-5630.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. 1201 Highway 395. % 702-8827779. which parallels North Canyon Creek. Vogl Trek USA. call first for availability and directions. % 702884-3453. % 702782-7011. % 702-849-0570. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. % 702-3584824. Sierra Mountaineer. Twin City Surplus. contact Tin Cup Adventures. Strictly Scuba & More. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. % 702-831-5465. also rents horses.
secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. From here. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. Continuing northwest on NV 447. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. or ends. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. . to Vya. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. Put simply. For detailed maps. don’t screw it up. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. % 916-279-6101. The half-paved. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. To complete the loop. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. north of Pyramid Lake. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). depending on point of view. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. 84 miles back to Gerlach. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. % 702-831-0494.
3450 Lakeside Drive. % 702826-0800. 89502. along with Canada geese in fall. % 702-747-1413. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. 1987 North Carson Street. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. Excell Skates. 1200 South Wells Avenue. Bicycle Warehouse. Great Basin Bicycles. 500 North Carson Street. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. % 702-8871333. 235 East Plumb Lane. % 702827-3277. Bobo’s Ski Shop. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. 89701. 4135 South Virginia Street.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. also known as NV 206. % 702883-3210. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. & According to Jeanne L. % 702-825-8258. % 702786-5111. winter and spring. south of Carson City. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. 1993. 89502. 89509. call % 702-688-1500. Bike Brothers. % 702-3226001. Falcon Press Publishing. 89502. Reno Schwinn. For more information. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. 89701. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. 89502. . 89532. 1999 South Virginia Street.
via NV 88 and CA 89. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. six miles south of Gardnerville. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. .86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. 89423. personal water craft and kayaks. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. turkey vultures. rents powerboats. California. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. Spooner Lake. red-tailed hawks. kingfishers. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. % 702-8825007. which can take up to seven hours. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. On the Nevada side. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. 1685 Highway 395 South. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. The trip. coyotes. During spring and early summer. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. Entrance fee is $3 per car. % 702-588-3369. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. canoes. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. PO Box 3007. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. 89701. % 702782-0867. 89450. cutthroat and rainbows. Nevada. 625 Fairview Drive. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. Contact the US Forest Service. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. offers 1.
one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. Washoe Lake State Park. planting and licensing information. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. % 702-6874319. both on the eastern shore. but in wet years. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. although . For directions. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. two to three miles up a steep trail. and charges a launching fee. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. water levels. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. For moving-water anglers. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. thanks to Sierra runoff. only a mile west of downtown. are regularly stocked with rainbows. The smaller. with campground and restrooms. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. % 702-688-1500.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. However. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. Idlewilde Park. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. A better option might be Ophir Creek. There are two boat ramps. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. catfish and trout. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. For the stalwart anglers. For more adventurous angling. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage.
% 702-688-1500. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. while rainbow. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. Come prepared. used to separate gold and silver from ore. crappie and perch. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. More than 100 years later. a health advisory is still in effect. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. however. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. Nevada Angler’s Guide. . The reservoir is located on private land. Rainbow. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. In his book. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. For more information. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. Camping is primitive. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. There are two boat ramps on the lake. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. boasts a handful of isolated spots. Boats with outboards are permitted. under Outfitters. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. the setting here is primative. see below. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end.
Snowboarders are welcome. .Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports.440 vertical feet of runs. Don’s Fishing Charters. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. Reno. Mount Rose also offers lessons. % 916573-0753. NV 89449. 96145. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. NV 89502. % 702-825-2855. 155 East Moana Lane. Stateline. The Gilly. 89502. PO Box 10225. NV 89448. PO Box 815. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. Reno Fly Shop. PO Box 1909. PO Box 6506. 294 East Moana Lane. rentals and a shuttle bus. % 916-546-4444. With a base elevation of 8. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. intermediate and advanced.260 feet. % 702-588-4916. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. NV 89502. % 916-541-5448. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. % 702-322-9559. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. CA. % 702-827-0600. Sparks. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. 490 Kietzke Lane. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. Zephyr Cove.. Tahoe City. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. % 702-358-6113. equally divided among novice. NV 89448. Reno. NV 89431. Zephyr Cove. Tahoe Topliners.
Snowboarders are welcome.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. This is a monster of a mountain. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. For cross-country fans. which include a pass. Incline Village. % 702-831-8361. 89451. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. Lessons. $8 after 3 PM). a new gondola and the famous tram. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. lesson. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. skate skis. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. % 702-7823047. Heavenly has 18 chairs. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. % 702-749-5349. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff.840 feet. rentals and a shuttle bus are available.000 feet above sea level.800) and the highest top elevation (10. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. Spooner Lake Cross-Country.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. rentals. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. day tours and amateur races. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. and/or snowshoes. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. Lessons. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. NV.500 feet). % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. lesson. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. trail pass) is $34. 1210 Ski Way. the greatest acreage (4. . The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. rentals. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis.000 to 9. Diamond Peak. and rental. lessons. not to mention great views of the lake. six surface lifts. Heavenly. all-terrain skis. with the longest vertical drop (3. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices.
89451. 89502. In Reno. % 702-849-0111. % 702-831-3537. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. % 702-588-5935. % 702-329-5358. 89502. 1685 Highway 395 South. % 916-544-1221. CA 96151. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Bobo’s Ski Shop.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. Sierra Mountaineer. % 702-8269096. Mogul Mouse. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. Galena Ski Rentals. % 702786-5111. PO Box 19215. % 702-786-2020. % 702-831-2922. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. % 702-358-4824. 209 Kingsbury. South Lake Tahoe. 515 East Moana Lane. % 702831-3500. of- . 89502. 89451. 89502. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. 2615 Mill Street. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. Sundance Ski Company. % 702782-0867. 89502. C&J Flight Aviation. 2500 East 2nd Street. Snowind Sports. 321 Sky Way. Stateline House of Ski. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. 140 Vesta Street. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. 235 East Plumb Lane. 89451.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. 89502. 89502. % 702-786-7071. % 702-3226001. % 702-3239463. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 89502. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 89423. Excell Skates. Serva Ski.
$$$-$$$$. three. poolside service. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. $$$-$$$$. $$$-$$$$. Harrah’s. also features condo accommodations. has two. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. $$$$$$$. Lake Village Vacations. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). eight restaurants. offers 534 rooms. of course. . % 702-784-4944.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. on this site since 1944. % 800-99-RIDGE. % 800-648-3353. % 800-635-0066. % 800-427-8397. $$$$. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. 398 US 50. $$$-$$$$. Tahoe Summit Village.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. % 702-588-8571. The Douglas County Airport. High Country Soaring. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. the Sierras and. % 800-6483773. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. Harvey’s Resort. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers.. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. a dance club. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. Lake Tahoe. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. has 740 rooms.
the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. 593 North Dyer Circle. % 800-624-7980. 111 Country Club Drive.700 rooms on 38 floors. Among the downtown locations. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. % 800- . The Haus Bavaria B&B. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. has 33 rooms. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. $$. as well as a gym with instructor on site. 210 North Center Street. A perennial four-star winner. 407 North Virginia Street. $$-$$$. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. the Cal-Neva Resort. As in Las Vegas. The Zephyr Cove Resort. % 800-824-6391. % 800-225-6382. which serves free continental breakfast. $-$$. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. 24 Highway 28. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade.$$-$$$$. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. % 800-731-6222. % 800-322-7723. lawn games. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. $$$. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. $$. $$$-$$$$. first-class. with more than 1. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. a rustic feel. % 702-8321234. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. % 702-588-6644. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. $$-$$$. 2 Stateline Road. % 702-831-0287. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. % 800-687-8733. $$-$$$$. Harrah’s. combines great views. Today.
$$. convention facilities and some impressive suites. % 800-648-1177. 3575 South Virginia Street. 500 North Sierra Street. the new Peppermill. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. $$$. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. $$. is a three-story. welcomes bargain hunters. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. Charles Hotel. 600 South Carson Street. $$$. 710 West Robinson Street. $$$$. 701 East 7th Street. $$. $$. a heated pool and other amenities. and Vagabond Inn. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. $$. the Motel 6. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. Nearby. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. 345 North Virginia Street. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. 1901 South Virginia. Circus Circus. % 800-320-0627. % 800-282-2444. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. $.000 rooms. which features theme rooms. $$-$$$. $$. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. $$. $$-$$$. % 800-723-6500. Rates start at $195 per night. The St. It has more than 1. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. $$. % 800-622-1890. The Atlantis. % 702-882-3643.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. Motel 6. 1100 Nugget Avenue. % 702-825-7134. including a barber shop. two heated pools and a hair salon. 310 South Carson Street. % 702-786-4070. 2707 South Virginia Street. an owner-built. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. % 702-358-1080. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. most notably the Days Inn. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. % 702-8821887. 3131 South Virginia Street. % 800-723-6500. $. Freeway convenient. boasts nearly 600 rooms. which overlooks the state government center. the Eldorado. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. % 800-937-1436. has a heated pool. Away from downtown. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. . % 800-648-5966. free airport shuttle and skier rates. % 702-827-0255. has more than 1.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247.
generic motels abound in Carson City. has five rooms. $$$. 11 with private baths. the inn was built in 1872 by A. 8 South F Street. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. There are 13 rooms. % 702-782-8720. % 702-782-7644. $$. for weary wanderers. 1540 Main Street. and a casino. % 702-847-9777. % 800-962-0732. 1435 US 395. % 702-782-9711. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. $-$$. $$. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. % 702-847-0521. % 702-557-2220. 300 Main Street. 565 South D Street. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. The Chollar Mansion. two with private baths. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. is the center of the action. % 800-321-6983. % 702-8825535. $$$. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. 2332 Main Street. $-$$. $. It has four rooms. $$. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. . with 58 rooms and live entertainment. Pratt. $$-$$$. $-$$. 1627 US 395. The Crooked House. 800 North Carson. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. including the small Genoa House Inn. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. #800-628-7831. 1431 Ezell Street. 1979 US 395. $-$$. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. The motel has 40 rooms. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. 907 South Carson. $$. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. 2001 Foothill Road. $$-$$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. and Pioneer. % 702-782-7075. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. % 702-847-0111. 180 Nixon Street. 1643 US 395. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. It has four rooms. some with kitchenettes. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. $$$. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. was built in the late 1800s.C. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. % 702-782-5697. % 702-882-3046.
$. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. % 702-323-5550. The hotels. of course. try the Glory Hole. The French cuisine is made with fresh. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. no TVs and. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. . One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. Steak. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. % 702-323-3200. Open for dinner only. 328 Kingsbury Grade. The Chart House. % 702-588-6276. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. Famous Murphys. Reservations are recommended. 3065 West 4th Street. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. a casino. including a seafood and oyster bar. ethnic food and full buffets. 1200 Razorback Road. Open for dinner only. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. 4201 West 4th Street. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. coffee shops. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. 3127 South Virginia Street. % 702-827-4111. also run the gamut with delis. along with Caesars Tahoe. % 702-825-1250. The restaurant also does its own baking. serves fresh Japanese steak. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. % 702-588-2411. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. the lake’s first casino. % 702-588-6611. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. The place has 14 rooms. is a rousing pub with good food. % 702-786-1323. Ichiban. seasonal ingredients. the menu changes every two months. % 702-941-0371. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. 210 North Sierra Street.
is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. South of the city center and south of the border. % 702-356-3300. There is also an extensive wine list. 1020 North Carson Street. 1301 North Carson Street. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. . The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. dinner only on weekends. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. % 702-785-7000. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. one of the top Italian eateries in country. and Peppermill. % 702786-5700. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. Two blocks away. % 702-689-7226. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. 234 North Virginia. 507 North Carson Street. this is the place. 2707 South Virginia Street. The Carson Nugget Steak House. % 702-8262121. % 702-8835100. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. 255 North Sierra Street. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. % 702882-1626. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. % 702-883-6261. Silvana’s. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. 4389 South Carson Street. 1540 Main Street. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. % 702-882-4556. % 702-847-0111. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. seafood and steak. serves fine French cuisine. Heidi’s. Boasting a large Italian menu. % 702-348-9297. % 702-882-3353. 1112 North Carson Street. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. the Eldorado. % 702-882-0486. El Charro Avitia. 402 East William Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. Adele’s.
. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. 1300 West 2nd Street. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. The nightly fee is $5. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. Call the Cedarville. Set at 8. Simply wonderful. 735 Mill Street. % 916-279-6101. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. for more information. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. Reno RV Park. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. call % 702266-3343. the campground has 24 sites. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park.900 feet. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. California.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. % 702-8822766. nine for RVs. 2500 East 2nd Street. % 916-573-2600. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. Open May through October. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. Showers are available. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. Mount Rose has running water. lies south of the river. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. the campground has 54 sites and running water. which straddles the Nevada-California border. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. The overnight fee is $7. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. The overnight rate is $12. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. For information and fees. Rates run about $18 per night. There are 44 campsites here. % 702-687-4319. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. Open June through September. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. % 702-322-2281. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. Big Spring Reservoir. some for RVs and some for tents. office of the BLM. including Virgin Valley. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. Nightly fees are $6. % 702-323-3381. On the Nevada side. % 702-789-2000. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake.
the delivery time was as little as 10 days. Bible and mail pouch. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. Beginning in April 1860. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. 1861. willing to risk death daily. pausing only long enough to change mounts. and Sacramento.” Riders. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Want ads called for “Young. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. skinny. Incredibly. carrying only a pistol... Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. Orphans preferred. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. tore between stations. the gutsy riders. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. wiry fellows not over eighteen. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. On October 24.Pony Express Territory vada. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Missouri. California. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Joseph.
so be prepared for anything.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. . hiking and wildlife viewing. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. As might be expected. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. But if you consider solitude. Great Basin.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. Near the town of Ely. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. Just a few hours from Ely. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. there is excellent skiing. Ranging in elevation from 3. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. ridges and valleys in the country. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. this area has plenty to offer. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. glacier-carved peaks. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. spans some of the most beautiful. In the higher mountains.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
green-winged teals. peregrine falcons. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert.000 people. % 702-423-3677. 1000 Auction Road. pelicans. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. .000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. % 702-423-5128. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. Sunday. % 702-867-3500. With 10. below. canvasbacks.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds.000 photographic images. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. January through March. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. snowy plovers. April through December.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time.000 years. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. (See On Water.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. 1050 South Maine Street. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. In recent years. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. In peak years. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. covers 77. White-faced ibis. Over 14. Admission is free.
Just off the highway are two short trails.000 years ago. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. which features the famous Blue Angels. and “management” means hunting.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. Adam Fortunate Eagle. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. More than 21. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. At press time. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. Every spring. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. Pony Express Territory . Besides regaling visitors with his tales. On the south end of town.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. Over 8. is the artist in residence here. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. The hunting season usually opens in October. Just east of town.
If the roar of engines ever dies down. 100 Campus Way. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. NV 89406.” Booms. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. volcanic cliffs around it. Near the station. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. dark. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. 379 West William Avenue. wild West. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). A hike to the precipice is a safe. but strenuous. % 702-423-4556. fauna. . keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. about three miles past West Gate. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. listen for the mountain’s “singing. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. regularly emanate from the dune. % 702-423-2544. NV 89406. Fallon. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. the low.” meaning sword. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. geology and history of the region. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. roars and moans. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. Fallon.
As always. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. past Bob Scott campground. 13 miles east of Austin. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. Round Mountain. % 702-964-2145. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. then climbs again to Austin. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. However the rush began. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. Austin. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. PO Box 212. NV 89045. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity.577 feet. Austin is a quiet. Six miles later. Spencer’s Hot Springs. PO Box 1149. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13.350 feet. NV 89310. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. population about 300. % 702-964-2200. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . the boom was followed by the bust. Three miles later. then to paved NV 376.
106 n Pony Express Territory sort. Austin. are open to visitors just off the road. At mile 55. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. experienced cavers only. PO Box 1420. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. The hill is located on private land. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. Use caution here and stay out of the pool.500 years ago. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. is recommended for serious. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. NV 89310. At mile 30. The limestone cavern. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. % 702635-4000.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. % 702-964-2200. Battle Mountain. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. There is also a free campground here. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. NV 89820. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. A long. near Pete’s Summit. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. After merging with Lower Mine Road. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. A series of safe. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. PO Box 212. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone.000 years ago. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. . hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11.
But by 1890 the rush was over.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. By 1878. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. found in the valleys around Eurkea. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. however. completed in 1880 and still in use today. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. The shell of the building. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. Still. and the Jackson House Hotel. The state’s No. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. The building. NV 89316. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. dates from 1877.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. some a little less gloriously than others. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. % 702-237-5484. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. PO Box 14. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Eureka’s population of 9. Not until five years later. are still a major facet of the local economy. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. Eureka. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. but most definitely worth a gander. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. Eureka. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. Gold mines. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites.
US 50 rolls across basin and range. Entering town at night . n Ely Back on US 50. Situated at 9.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. NV 89316. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. A few miles farther south. running south into the Humboldt National Forest.000 feet. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Eureka.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center.500 residents. PO Box 14. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. Pronounced EE-lee. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. this mini-city (population about 5. Monday through Friday and by appointment. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. % 702-237-5484. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401.
NV 89301. depart on selected dates from May through September. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites.300 feet. former First Lady Pat Nixon. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. On the other side of town. like many museums in this territory. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. located on East 11th Street. engine house. Pony Express Territory . Call for exact dates and times. furniture. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties.50 per person. running water. % 702-2894710. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. The museum. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. Prices start at $10 per person. showers and hiking trails. accessories. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. a bicycle. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. % 702-728-4467. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. % 702-289-2085. Since they went cold in the 1880s. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. The White Pine Public Museum. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. as well as an original. There is primitive camping here. Admission is free. Tours of the railroad yard. 2000 Aultman Street. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. Return to US 50. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. PO Box 150040. clothing. East Ely. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. depot.
56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. In 1922. 1986. From Baker. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. % 702-289-8877. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. In the 1950s a . well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. While hikers are welcome. Designated a national park in October. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. 150 6th Street. a proposal to create a 6. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. 636 Aultman Street. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. Most of the 77. % 800496-9350.000 people a year visit the park. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. untamed backcountry. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. That leads quickly to Baker. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. For more information.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. Only about 70. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. % 702-289-4865. % 702-234-7331. sometimes by the hundreds. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. contact the Ely office of the BLM.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. Bristlecone Convention Center.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive.
067-foot Wheeler Peak. $3 for juniors. Call ahead for conditions. While celebrating a victory. the park’s crown jewel. . but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. are hard to beat. stalagmites.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. Finally. And even if the invasive livestock were banned.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. The high-altitude campgrounds. Christmas and New Year’s Day. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. NV 89311-9702. too. ski resorts and tramways. % 702-234-7331. (See On Foot and Camping. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. flowstone and soda straws.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. Tours of the cavern. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains.000 to 44. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. or speleotherms: stalactites. Congress settled on 77. Prices are $4 for adults. are held every day except Thanksgiving. which is actually one huge cavern. limited to 30 people at a time. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. draperies. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves.086-acre Great Basin National Park. in 1986. Baker. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. columns. then head straight out of the park. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. among others.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months.000. below.
which can take a few days to get acclimated to. The garnets found here. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. % 702-9642671. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. which has picnic tables and shade trees. Set at 7. or use paved NV 376. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. Carvers NW. are spessartite. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. Tierney Creek. Bakeoven Creek.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. Arc Dome. . rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. South Toiyabe Peak.000 feet.600 feet. to reach the village of Kingston. a few of which are even of gem quality. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. Millet Ranch. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. To reach Garnet Hill. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. Drive three miles to the recreation area. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District.
Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). This is some serious highcountry hiking.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. which may be impassable when wet. a unique. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. nausea.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. If threatening clouds approach. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear.000 feet along rocky. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. The trail ends just before the summit. windswept paths. as well as all the water you will need. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. leave the high country immediately. which heads west toward the peak. From the trailhead/parking area. % 702-289-3031 for more information. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. set aside in 1989. Baker. with many trails climbing above 10. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. Pony Express Territory . is marked with trailhead signs. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary.000-acre. The wilderness. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. 1. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. After about 10 miles of hiking. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. and Mount Moriah. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. headache. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. which at 12.
Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. In 1878. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. the last 1. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. the six-mile .063 feet. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. Use extreme caution here.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. If it is safe to venture to the peak. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. then turn left again. or cirque. Continue straight. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. To reach the summit. At 13. then descends to Teresa Lake. the views of the 8. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. Finally.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. This is another depression etched by a glacier. The bowl.
once the site of some mining activity.700 feet in the first seven miles. just off to the east. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. Wheeler Peak. .926-foot Pyramid Peak. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. To return to the trailhead.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. In good weather. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier.950 years.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. Around mile six. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. Return the way you came. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. Turn left. Lehman Caves. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. subalpine conditions. this is a nice overnight stop. After about three miles. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. Kious Spring. To continue the loop hike. and even a single needle might be 40 years old.
Wendover George A.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. Sportsworld. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. 89301. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. % 702-423-6171. 189 Aultman Street. 701 Avenue F. % 702-423-5185. White River Guide Service. is worth a gander. % 702-238-5232. 1050 Aultman Street. sells camping and outdoor equipment. 2005 Harrigan Road. 1707 Rice Road. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. HCR 33. 3125 Stark Lane. 89406. 89406. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. % 702-664-2977. % 702-289-4468. % 702423-9215. 89406. Burdick Guide Service. Box 33570. 89406. 203 Heritage Drive. Wildlife West Guide Service. Great Basin Inn. 89301. % 702-4239215. 89301. 5030 Reno Highway. HC 34. 89301. % 800-874-0903. Flying M Stables. Daum. Silver State Stables. . 89406. J & P Auto Parts. a quartermile. PO Box 2560. % 702235-7439. 89883. PO Box 34005. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. % 702-289-8886. As of presstime. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. % 702-2893063. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. % 702-289-4208. 89301. % 702-867-3388. 89301.
Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. one would think tiny Austin. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. The route runs north out of the canyon. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. % 702-885-6000. population 300. contact the BLM. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. % 702-964-2671. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. For more information. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. PO Box 130. brochures and campgrounds. NV 89310. Austin. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. NV 89310. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. PO Box 504. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. Dune-buggy. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. Austin. the sixstory. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District.000 per year. A 10-mile loop with a 1. For more information. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit.
TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. past the US Forest Service station. directions and road conditions. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. for maps. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. . where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. and bring plenty of water. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. when the weather is dry. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. % 702-234-7331. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. 1500 Aultman Street. From the pavement. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. % 702-289-8886. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. sells and services bicycles. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that.
off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. where worms and corn are said to work best. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. surrounds a 10. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. along with sportfishing. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. % 702-688-1500. Boat ramps are located in two spots.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. Pony Express Territory . White crappie can be hooked March through May. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Lahontan State Recreation Area.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. In 1997. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. The trout limit is 10. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether.
the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. and one of the best bargains. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. which feeds the lake. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. 855 West Williams Avenue. 701 Avenue F. % 702-289-4865. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. J & P Auto Parts. 1500 Aultman Street. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. via paved NV 376 and a three. % 702-423-6031. $-$$.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. is one of the biggest places in town. Great Basin Inn. The Upper Reese River. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. A few chain HO TE L . Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. % 702-289-4468. % 702-289-8886. 1050 Aultman Street.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. % 702-289-3063. The Bonanza Inn & Casino.
Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. most of which are on US 50. % 702-423-5151. % 702-237-5577. $$. has 17 rooms. 115 Northwest Main Street. The Nevada Belle Motel. called Main Street as it runs through town. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. % 702-964-2698. 180 West Williams Avenue. % 702-964-2471. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. % 702-9642605. $$$. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). % 702-237-5334. % 702-237-5247. 1705 South Taylor Street. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. 70 East Williams Avenue. % 702-423-4254. who really cares. The red brick structure was built in 1877. The Sundown Lodge. instruction. For a real blast from the past. $$. is a modern. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown.800 acres. the Lincoln Motel. On the east end of town. $. also called Main Street here. $-$$. 25 North Taylor Street. the Budget Inn. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. % 702-423-5554. 1830 West Williams Avenue. Call for information. % 702-423-2277. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. the 22-room Value Inn. a heated pool and interior corridors. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. but after a long day on the road. including the Comfort Inn. $. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . a heated pool and a small casino. % 702-423-4648. with 10 rooms. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. and. $-$$. $-$$. Smith Creek Ranch. It is open seasonally. $-$$. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. which has 17 rooms. The ranch. which has 30 rooms. $. which is north-south running US 95. while on the southern edge of town. has 21 rooms. The Eureka Motel. $$$. which has 49 rooms. % 702-964-2306. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. the Pony Express House. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. has 27 rooms. As you drive in from the west. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. % 702-423-2194. $-$$. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. try Jackson House B&B.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. basic equipment. $-$$. meals and overnight accommodations. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. rates and directions. combines a B&B with a private.
is another living antique. The inn is open June through September. Ely With a population of more than 5. % 702-2891234. % 702-289-6665. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). the building was vacant 10 years later. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. $-$$. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. For a more modern taste. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. 701 Avenue I. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. which has 61 rooms. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. $. $-$$. % 702-289-4497. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. which has 19 rooms. 501 Aultman Street. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. $-$$.300. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. % 702-237-9988. % 702-289-8838. 220 East 11th Street. 700 Avenue I. 1101 Aultman Street. $$. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. After years of dormancy. $-$$. % 702289-6671. 770 Avenue O. % 702-289-4884. For a more genteel stay. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. located on the south side of town off US 93. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. 930 Aultman Street. two-story hotel. $. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. There are also private balconies. has 21 rooms. 5th . located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. % 702-289-4747. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. and its twin. % 702-289-8687. % 702-289-8900. $-$$$. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. $-$$. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. the inn has five rooms with private baths. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. The Bristlecone Motel. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. 500 High Street. 1501 Avenue F. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. $$-$$$.
% 702234-7300. $-$$. % 702-289-3800. % 702234-7323. along with horseback riding. what with its 29 rooms. Baker. The Silverjack Motel. and two others outside of Baker. $. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. which has a laundromat and showers. guided tours and off-road adventures. % 702-237-7302. % 702-289-4411. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. is a favorite spot for travelers. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. 1301 Aultman Street. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. $. $-$$. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. so call ahead for operating hours. PO Box 90. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. % 702-234-7272. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. even fast food joints are nonexistent. % 702-234-7343. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. offers tipis and a campground. Behind the Silverjack. the Border Inn. % 702-289-3033. NV 89311. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. and the White Pine Motel. with its seven rooms. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers.. $.. . % 702-234-7267. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. It is open June through August.er. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. $. and Whispering Elms RV Park. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. Utah. 24hour laundromat and showers. 150 4th Street. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. South of Baker at the national park boundary. % 702-234-7323.
thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. % 702-964-2220. specializing in omelets and steaks. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. Stockman’s Casino. Smack in the center of town. 4150 Reno Highway. serves up steaks. 1955 McClean Road. % 702-867-2769. 1350 West Williams Avenue. try Mary’s Owl . 70 South Maine Street. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. 1560 West Williams Avenue. lunch and dinner. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. 125 South Maine Street. 960 Auction Road. Toiyabe Café. The Fallon Nugget Casino. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. In 1929 and ’30. is home to The Diner. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. including McDonald’s. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). Café Nations. is known throughout Fallon. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. % 702-423-6166. is Fallon’s only coffee house. % 702-423-3233. % 702-423-3111. The International Café and Bar. In the 1920s and ‘30s. % 702-964-2493. % 702-423-5588. however. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. Tony’s. Kentucky Fried Chicken. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. % 702-867-3750. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. 875 West Williams Avenue. The Depot Casino. The Mexican food at La Cocina. If your mind is on pizza. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. is also open for three squares a day. % 702423-6828. % 702-964-9905. Denny’s. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. have been serving great burgers. including the few eateries. Open for breakfast. Carol’s Country Kitchen. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. % 702-423-2117.
% 702-2289-3765. The Busy Bee Drive-In. 1455 Aultman Street. located three miles north of town on US 93. % 702-237-5356. % 702-289-3905. % 702-289-3033. % 702-964-2627. % 702-237-5280.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. Lahontan State Recreation Area. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. 501 Aultman Street. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. 562 Aultman Street. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. The Fireside Inn. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. The Owl Club. however. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. serving diner-style grub. Jerry Restaurant No. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. Believe it or not. which features prime rib. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. and is attached to a bar. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. West of Fallon. 5787 Reno Highway. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . Fallon RV Park. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. and Hubtotel RV Park. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. has 64 sites. is also open 24 hours a day. % 702-289-6665. % 702-867-2332. 21. % 702-688-1500. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. % 702-964-2412. offers 45 sites. 701 Avenue I. % 702-237-5477. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. % 702-289-3313. might as well top it off in Eureka. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. % 702-289-4884. and Orient Express. 211 5th Street. serves a fine steak sandwich. 4800 Reno Highway. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. % 702-867-3636. where the restaurants are also along US 50. 2160 Aultman Street. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. top sirloin steak and eggs. % 702-289-4888.
so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. There are 15 sites. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. Austin RV Park. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). There is drinking water here. picnic tables and vault toilets. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. PO Box 1420. For information. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. There are 10 sites here . Open April to October. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. Austin. None have running water. For more information and road conditions.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. Just east of town. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest.300 feet. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. About nine miles south of Big Creek. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. Bob Scott Campground. To reach Bird Creek campground. Just east of the Eureka town limits. 24 miles east of Austin.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. NV 89310. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. along with campfire rings. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7.500 feet. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. then go a mile to County Road 1059. NV 89820. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. North of Ely. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. PO Box 130. Finally. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Battle Mountain. No running water or firewood. % 702-964-1011. where there are eight campsites set at 7. set at 7. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. % 702-635-4000. After a few miles. % 702-964-2671. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. grills. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. which are open June through September with running water. both off of US 50.800 feet. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. Only six miles southwest of Ely. as there are no services near the water.
has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. Contact the visitors center. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. Pony Express Territory .886 feet. has 100 sites. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. % 702-2893031.300 feet. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. In Great Basin National Park. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. To reach the campground from US 50. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles.250 feet). All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. Set at 7. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. and there are no showers. On the northern edge of the park.530 feet. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. % 702-2893303. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. 89301. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. For more information. There are 30 sites here at 7. Ely. NV. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. The BLM. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. % 702-289-4865. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. and Valley View RV Park. this is the only park campground open all year. depending on weather conditions. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake.752 feet. In the center of the park. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. 350 8th Street. on US 93. % 702-2893413. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. % 702-234-7331. Upper Lehman.
gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. started pulling core samples. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here.000 feet and more. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. The short. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. who described them as “lowly old giants. sagebrushcovered sea. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. reaching as high as 11. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. . Desert bighorn sheep.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. He found one living specimen dating back 4. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. the state animal. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. the oldest living thing on earth. Named Methuselah.000-year-old duck decoys. Edmund Schulman. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. humans. not many of them stayed around very long. however.700 years. Throughout history. Today in Cowboy Country. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. call many parts of this high country home.
500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. bikers and equestrians. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. The weather here can be as wild as the land. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state.000 years. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. Summers are generally hot and dry. lakes and reservoirs. Carry good maps and a compass.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. Winter brings rain and snow. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. In fact. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. towns like Winnemucca. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. bass and other gamefish. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. In 1993. streams. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. and know how to use them. Elko headed the list of the 100 .
The famous trail. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. paralleled the Humboldt River. But since the early days. parts of which are still visible today. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. This is a place where pick-up trucks. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. but everyday tools. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. combed Cowboy Country. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. took to sheepherding. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. both held in Elko. followed by the doomed Donner Party. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. Cowboy Country . Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. including one named Samuel Clemens. but thanks to new mining technology.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. In late 1860s. others moved on. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. lunch and dinner. after the riches ran out. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come.
turn left on Derby Road. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. George Lovelock. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around.000-square-mile Pershing County. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. Five miles southwest of the shelter. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. The seat of 6. which measures . After eight miles. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. which crosses the Humboldt River. arrived here in 1866. about 17 miles from Lovelock. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. which the company named after him. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. located on the southern outskirts of town. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road.300. With a population of just over 2.
son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. dark. Lovelock. clothing and household items. NV 89419. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. about six miles from downtown Lovelock.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. in 1886 or 1887. picnicperfect park. Admission is free. Tufas. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. are large. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. He may have been led there by Natchez. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. Mummified remains were found here. many of which were donated by locals. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. which also features the community pool. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. PO Box 821. % 702-273-2713. the first ever in the Great Basin. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. One of only two round courthouses in the country. Scientific excavations.
standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. % 702-538-7321. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. To reach the tufas from the courthouse.134 n Cowboy Country vada. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. below) and wellmanicured homes. Open all year. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. Lovelock. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. For details. About 16 families reside in Unionville. is centered on this man-made lake. where stone . PO Box 821. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. After later taking the name Mark Twain. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). NV 89419. % 702-273-2713. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. as well as opportunities for boating. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. see below under Adventures. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. which seems close enough to touch. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. fishing and camping.
The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. Today their descendants. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. They later brought their families. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. To reach Unionville from I-80.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. Edna Purviance. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. % 702-623-2912. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. a former resident. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. dancing. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. Curator . the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. Winnemucca (population 7. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. From here it’s five miles to the town. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. Admission is free. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. a good spot for a picnic. % 702/623-2225. except for lunch. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. the Humboldt Museum complex. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women).
A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. The tour visits 30 sites. % 702-623-1500. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard.000. 95 Bridge Street. 352 Bridge Street. The thieves escaped to Texas. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. NV 89445. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. The former First National Bank. was erected in 1863. NV 89445. 602 Bridge Street. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. along with a thank you note. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. one of two in the country. nabbing $32. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. but all are easily drivable. Winnemucca. 705 East Fourth Street. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. Winnemucca. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. There is a gift shop next door. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. Winnemucca. NV 89445. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard.000 in gold. Another gem is the Shone House. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. St. Winnemucca. % 702623-5025. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. US Forest Service. Like something out of old Mexico. NV 89445. % 800-962-2638. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. % 702-623-5025. .136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada.
Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. Three years later the village became Paradise City. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. To reach the remains of the camp. along with the local watering hole. the town was an empty shell. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain.300 people had moved by 1913. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. all but 250 people left. The Rochester Mining District. once a busy town of more than 2. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. and 2. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. which serves as a meeting place and information center. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. Midas is two miles from this junction. Jungo. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. The camp was abandoned by 1869. A 20th-century ghost town. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. Today about 100 people live in town. established Scottsdale in 1866. which . but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. after fending off resident Paiutes.
five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. (See Adventures.) In town. Just south of town. Paradise Saloon. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. % 702-7383418. 1515 Idaho Street. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. Gas is also available. this town of about 25. A state park.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. fishing and camping. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. verdant marshes. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. deli and soda fountain. % 702-623-5025. however. is easy to locate. sometimes an angler’s paradise. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. this is Cowboy Country. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. (See Adventures and Camping. biking. located on the extreme east end of town. Basque . ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. % 702-578-3381. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. obtain maps.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. It’s the white. The local mining. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. offers a bar. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. beautiful high-country lake. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. In Winnemucca. After all. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown.
1 PM to 5 PM. Hertz Rent-A-Car. 10 AM to 5 PM. Harris Field.C. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. % 800-453-9417. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). along with various other events throughout the year. For airport information. 501 Railroad Street. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. and a charter airline. also known as J. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. El Aero Services. .Touring n 139 immigrants. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-8727245.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. % 702-738-5131. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. The Western Folklife Center. % 800-654-3131. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. Admission is free. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. geology and industry abound. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. 9 AM to 5 PM. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. % 800-331-1212. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Deweys Rent-A-Car. % 702-738-7123. Displays of local wildlife. % 702-738-7508. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. and Sunday.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. geography.
lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. 89803. Elko. 89801. Elko. including the remote. Elko. 89801. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. Elko Chamber of Commerce. passing Powerhouse picnic area. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. 700 Moren Way. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. 3900 East Idaho Street. Elko. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. with elevations ranging up to 11. 1601 Idaho Street. % 702-738-5171. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. % 702-738-7135.800 feet). From town. located southeast of Elko. % 702-753-0200. (See Adventures and Camping. At the . is one of the most photographed churches in the West. 976 Mountain City Highway. 90. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. Alpine vistas. 89801.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. From Elko. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. % 800-248-ELKO. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. fishing and camping in the entire West.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. Humboldt National Forest.387 feet at Ruby Dome.
so drive cautiously. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. Idaho. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. down into Jarbidge Canyon. a high clearance vehicle is required. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. see below. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. From Wells. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. Ruby Dome. U-shaped valley. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. Nevada. and by the 1930s the rush was over.500 people flooded into the region. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. For details on all of this. is spectacular. The road leads east 21 miles. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. . From the south. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. turns south. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. More than 1. rising 11. this town sticks to Mountain Time. is visible in the west. Even when they are open.Touring n 141 crest. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. Yes. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. check with the owners of the Trading Post. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. or call them at % 702-488-2315. the road meets the Jarbidge River. (See On Foot. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916.387 feet. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. For access to both. then north another 25 miles. and there’s no argument here. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada.
Cool. The range is also home to Angel Lake. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . For ghost town fans.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. the main difference between the two sides being. the main artery running up the east side of the state. and the 37. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. exit at No. Bonneville Speedway Museum. This is also the junction of US 93. head east from the border.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. both available at the Trading Post. To access the flats. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. which rises to 11. Sunday until 9 PM. n Wendover From Wells. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. Before entering town. 647 Humboldt Avenue.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. of course. 4 and go five miles northeast. reached easily via a paved highway. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. n Wells From Elko. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. % 702-752-3215. The town was abandoned in 1942.) On the Utah side of the state line. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. the 44. the presence of casinos. try Stuart’s Foodtown. stare out across the famous. however. % 801-665-7721.
Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. hawks. which attracts upwards of 10. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. The night before the events. Eagles. which gains 1.600 feet in two miles. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. % 702-664-3414. falcons and ospreys are common. the historic World War II B-29s. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. a . is held in late March or early April. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. June Both hay. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs.000 buckaroos. February Wells holds its annual chariot races.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar.
north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. hear the music and eat the food. Near Wendover. The town of McDermitt. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month.. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. . call % 702-635-8245. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. when tanks. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener.or 23-mile loop. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. six. For details. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. dancing. There is a traditional dance contest. In Wendover. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. under Touring. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. Unless otherwise indicated. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. featuring food. July In July. Phone numbers can be found above. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. The largest Basque get-together in the US. a parade and feats of strength. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night.
From here. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. To reach the trail. willow and cottonwood country. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail.000 feet in four miles. Star Peak (elevation 9. the road. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. passable by high-clearance vehicles. Aspen. lupine and leopard lilly are common here.732) is the highest point. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. Star Peak. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. Falcon Press Publishing. The first half of the moderately strenous. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. Chartered in 1989. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas.200 feet. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. To reach the trailhead. This makes for a great loop drive.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range.834 feet). Pronghorn antelope. 1994. Granite Peak (elevation 9. The trailhead appears after three miles. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. climbing more than 4. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. leads due east toward the highest point. From the top. The trail is punishing. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. including the 31. crossing Buffalo Creek. which .
descends toward a watercourse. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. glacial lakes. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. Hikers can visit rock peaks.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. The gravel and dirt road runs 5.” Elevations range from 6. narrow canyons. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. Mountain lions. more than 10.800 feet above sea .415). Come prepared for anything. USGS 7. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. depending on weather conditions. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). where you turn south.6 miles to a parking area. Return the way you came. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. cirque basins. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. % 702-623-5025. Horses are welcome on these trails. about one mile south of town. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. including Singas Creek. big horn sheep.
then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. set at 9. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. know this region as well as anyone. From Roads End. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko.300-foot .Adventures n 147 level. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. The 1. Franklin Lake NW. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. this is the high point of the trek. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. Hyslop. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). The pass is often closed in winter. % 702-738-7135. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket.400 feet and heads north. After about a mile and a half. Pause to rest but not to fish. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. % 702-752-3357. At 10. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. as there are no trout here. so check road conditions before heading out. The five-mile. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. of course. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes.500 feet.400 feet. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. Feel free. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. and his dog Molly.
follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site.000 feet to 10. From the trailhead. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. Return the way you came. Wild- . The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. the closest town. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. Most of the paths are found in the 113. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. Unfortunately. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. On a good day. subalpine forests. Finally. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48.000-foot mark. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). Just past the spring. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. The trail drops again. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. Idaho. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9.700 feet.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
is also a good fishing spot.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. rainbows. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. Channel cats. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. supports brook. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. campsites and restrooms. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. mountain whitefish. % 702-623-5025. The site has a paved boat ramp. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. For more information. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. To reach the lake from Elko. call % 702-758-6493. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. and everything is open year-round. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . brown and rainbow trout. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. and black bass have become a favorite catch.
with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. To reach the refuge from Elko. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. including bald and golden eagle. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. contact the US Forest Service. . The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. elevation 8. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. trumpeter swam. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. % 702-738-5171. so check road conditions before heading out. great sandhill crane. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. For an easier drive from Wells. For more information. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. At the foot of the range. Angel Lake Near Wells. white-faced ibis. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. midway between the northern and southern portions. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass.000 acres.800 feet. Within six miles of the trailhead. short-eared owl and American kestrel. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow.154 n Cowboy Country ers. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. Turn left and head south 32 miles. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end.
take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. PO Box 685. PO Box 515. % 702-664-3414. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. Raley’s. For more information. 89801. % 702779-2226.400-acre lake. 89833. 89801. 89833. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. have become a local haven for divers. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. Grandview Marine. 89801. Secret Pass Outfitters. the bowcut trout. 89801. Rainbow.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. % 702-7388473. 1250 Lamoille Highway. HC 60. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. crystalline Blue Lakes. % 702-777-DIVE. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. catfish. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. HC30 Box 17 #13. % 702-7382775. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. 285 12th Street. the spring-fed. In warmer months. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . Elko Guide Service. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. % 702779-2268. 2511 Mountain City Highway. % 702-7442277. are the best bets here. To reach the 2. HC 60. 423 South Bridge Street. % 702-625-2453.
Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. % 702-273-2937. % 702-753-6867. is convenient to I-80. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. lodging and all the extras. is the most happening place in town. restaurant.500 feet. depending on snowfall. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. $$$.500 to 6. % 800-528-1234.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. one tame and the other decidedly not so. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. not to mention 74 rooms. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. The outfit boasts 5. To reach the ranch from I80. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. with a 24-hour casino. % 702-538-7585. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. Lunch and dinner are extra.200 feet. 55 Cornell Avenue. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. $$. Trips are limited to 16 people. offers 130 acres of terrain. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. covering 5. lounge. pool and jacuzzi. % 702-738-7135. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. Although there isn’t a television to be found.200 vertical feet. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road.000 acres of skiable mountain. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. . ranging from 5. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. $-$$. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. The Lovelock Inn. 2805 Unionville Road. Elko SnoBowl. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. then head west for five miles to town. 1420 Cornell Avenue.
$$$. 400 1st Street. 837 Idaho Street. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. and the Days Inn. is for you. restaurant and full bar. 2050 Idaho Street. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). a lounge with live entertainment. eateries. but also its own charter airline. % 702-738-8421. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 800-645-5658. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. $$. The Gold Country Inn. There are plenty of cheap. and the Model T Motel. % 702-7387261. $-$$. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. and the Holiday Motel. % 800-262-8901. $$. % 702-738-8787. the 170-room Holiday Inn. The Red Lion not only has a casino. $$-$$$$. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-5248. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. the Ameritel Inn Elko. $$$$$. % 800-633-6435. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. restaurant and bar. the Super 8. the 80-room Val-U Inn. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. the Red Lion Inn. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. with 150 rooms. $$-$$$. $$. $$. including the queen of Elko establishments. 3015 Idaho Street. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. $-$$. basic motels on the main drag. % 702-623-1116. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. $$-$$$. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. offers 40 rooms. $$-$$$.000. % 702-623-3646. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. There are also two Best Westerns. $-$$. $$. the Gold Country Motor Inn. % 800-346-5306. casino. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. a pool and 223 rooms. % 702-623-1180. 1930 Idaho Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. the Red Lion Inn. $-$$. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. % 702-623-3661. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. starting with the two biggies. and the generic. % 702-625-1818. Casino Express. in- . 2065 Idaho Street. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. offering 70 rooms. % 800-545-0044. and the Motel 6. % 702-738-8425. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around.
hiking and fly fishing. restaurants. % 702-738-8488.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. a swimming pool. and the Thunderbird Motel. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. has 70 rooms. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. 1755 Idaho Street. PO Box 281208. Jiggs Guest Ranch. along with a pool. $-$$. jacuzzi and fitness center. $-$$. % 702-738-5522. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. $$-$$$. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. $$-$$$. $$$$. 340 Commercial Street. 345 Idaho Street. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. % 702-753-6363. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. Red’s Ranch. $-$$. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. The Shilo Inn. biking and horseback riding. some with kitchenettes. 2401 Mountain City Highway. % 702-738-7115. bar and pool. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. % 702-738-5141. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. PO Box 281381. $$. $$. detached cabin with jacuzzi. % 702-753-6356. including skeet shooting. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. Just outside of Lamoille. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. Away from Idaho Street. Stonehouse Country Inn. . $$$-$$$$. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. $$$-$$$$. Lamoille. $$$-$$$$. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. % 702-753-6281. There is even space for campers and RVers. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. Stockmen’s Hotel. is an exclusive. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. There are 141 rooms. % 702-578-3530. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. 89828.
Jarbidge. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. the Outdoor Inn. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. $$$-$$$$. PO Box 260090. Down the street. 100 Wendover Boulevard. and the Best Western Sage Motel. 89826. On Main Street. $-$$. % 702-488-2311. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. has 56 rooms. 930 6th Street. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. $. For more information. which also has a restaurant and bar. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. $. PO Box 1300. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. the Chinatown Motel. $-$$. % 702-7523065. HC 62. 326 6th Street. % 702-4082338. and the Old West Inn. % 702-752-2277. HC 62. 1250 East 6th Street. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. The Super 8. On the north side of town. % 702-752-2116. % 800-848-7300. 456 6th Street. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. offers another 24 rooms. % 702-752-3888. % 702-488-2315. $. Together . PO Box 300. most of them planted along 6th Street. % 702-752-3353. if you’re into chains. % 702-752-2151. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. 576 6th Street. % 702-752-2101. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. $$-$$$. $$-$$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. $-$$$$. There are 57 rooms. $-$$. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. $. If not. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. There are more than 1. % 702-752-3604. Cottonwood Ranch. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. % 702-752-3384. the Rest Inn Suites. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. even by the neighbors in Utah. $-$$. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime.
a 14. % 702-623-3197. 750 Cornell Avenue. is another gamer’s haven. $$. which has live entertainment. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. serving steak. La Casita. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. % 702-273-7773. $-$$. % 702-273-2442.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. The Peppermill Hotel. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. along with daily specials. . % 702-273-7444. % 702-664-2888. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. Mexican food and pizza. leg of lamb. offers breakfast. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. which basks in the Basque tradition. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. the Super 8. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. % 702-273-2971. tennis courts. % 702-273-3232. 410 Cornell Avenue. is open until 10 PM every day. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. lounges. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. live showroom entertainment. % 800-537-0207. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. 260 Maine Street. and Pizza Factory. shrimp and Basque side dishes. $$-$$$. jacuzzi. pool and jacuzzi. 485 Cornell Avenue. live entertainment. 1035 Wendover Boulevard.000-square-foot casino. a health club. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. % 800-648-9660. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. and until 2 PM on Sunday. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. restaurants. with 90 rooms. 680 Wendover Boulevard. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. In the center of town. Wee B’s Pizza & More. pool. 9 PM on Sunday. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. Nearby. lunch and dinner. including restaurants and lounges. 1420 Cornell Avenue. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week.
It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. The Steak House. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. % 800-545-0044. Restaurante San Fermin. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. % 702-738-3214. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. Stockmen’s Hotel. % 702-623-4440. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. 180 Melarkey Street. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. since 1863. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. 1061 West Fourth Street. 95 South Bridge Street. % 702-623-6777. 2065 Idaho Street. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. This being ranch country. seafood and chicken. Elko The Red Lion Inn. % 702-623-4104. 1550 Idaho Street. % 702-623-2977. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-3455. % 702-738-9691. while The Griddle. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. The atmosphere is definitely casual. Toki Ona. home of the world’s largest potato field. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. all of their meat is cut to order. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. 405 Silver Street. % 702-623-2908. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. % 702-625-2555. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. . Specializing in steak. 340 Commercial Street. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. % 702-738-5141. but get there before 1 PM. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Another Basque establishment. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. China Garden.
adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. Prices range from moderate to expensive. . because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. % 702-753-6363. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. % 702-753-3877. Burger Bar. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. If you crave Mexican food. % 702-738-7088. to peruse the ornate bar.300 souls. Main and Humboldt Streets. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. 2525 Mountain City Highway. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. % 702-753-6356. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. % 702-752-3210. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. depending on weather conditions. % 702-738-7898. also serves hearty meals. La Fiesta. % 702-488-2311. 9 Beans and a Burrito. 217 Idaho Street. Pizza Barn. opens daily at 11 AM. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. 1740 Mountain City Highway. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. % 702-738-1622. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). Pine Lodge. delivers on its name. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. % 702-4882315. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. % 702-7382541. where it survived The Big One in ’06. 780 Commercial Street.
000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. There is running water and vault toilets. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. 100 Wendover Boulevard. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. % 800-648-9660. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. just north of the dam. Set at 7. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. For modern hunter-gatherers. offer 12 different restaurants. 22 miles north of Lovelock. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. call % 702-538-7321. For more information. % 800-848-7300. the area has two campgrounds. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. The main draw here is 11. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. 23. Fees are $7 per night in summer. including the ubiquitous casino buffet.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. For more information. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. two beautiful US Forest Service . Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. $3 per night in winter.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive.600 feet. 25.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. 680 Wendover Boulevard. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. The other one. 27 and 29 are especially good. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. call % 702-738-5171. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites.400 feet. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. The Peppermill Hotel. call % 800-962-2638. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. The fee is $7 per night. which holds trout and walleye. For more information. located at the end of Hanson Street. $8 for a two-family site. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. Set at 7. Sites 22.
Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. % 702-752-3357. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. and the fee is $7 per night. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. including three run by the US Forest Service. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. all free. The campground. For information on the above campgrounds. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. and the fee is $8 per night.500 feet. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. and are open June to October. Angel Creek is set at 6. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. For more information. About five miles up NV 225. has 37 first-come. with running water. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. . depending on the availability of running water. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15.900 feet. Set at 8. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. % 208-5434129.800 feet and is popular with anglers. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. The cabins are open October through mid-May. first-served sites. The fee is $5 per night. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. One mile north of town. offering 18 sites with running water. but no running water. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen.
fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. both socially and physically. writer. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. are in a state of “arrested decay. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. who once roamed this entire area. however. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. like Belmont and Rhyolite. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. an 11. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. Others. US For- B Pioneer Territory . marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. Meanwhile.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. like Silver Peak and Goldfield.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
In the Mojave Desert. Department of Defense. Rocky Mountain elk. affordable housing . They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. Nevada Division of State Parks.000. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. but the rest of the country. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. People and services are scarce. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. and six state parks to explore. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. Geographically. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. In the lowlands. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. There are portions of Death Valley National Park.Touring n 167 est Service. low taxes. then limber pine at higher elevations. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. Toiyabe. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired.
with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. On the south end of town in a modern. % 702-727-5800. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. mission-style. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. contact the Chamber of Commerce. The 22. only winery in Nevada.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. % 702-751-0821. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. % 702-7270896. as of this writing. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. 1141 South Highway 160. It’s also one of the hottest. 1771 Sagehen Road. % 702-7276900.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. there’s no competition). The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. blue and white building. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. In 1997. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. authorizing up to 90. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. According to Winona LaDuke. is the first and. 3810 Winery Road. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act.
snipe. for some handmade Mexican food. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. It’s no easy job. NV 89020. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. prairie falcons. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. following the signs to Ash Meadows. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. % 702-372-5435. Box 610Z. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. HCR 70. whitefaced ibises. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. then head west for about 20 miles. coots. great blue herons. . whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. Visitors can. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. inaccessible to the general public. and the second-greatest in all of North America.300 spread over 545 square miles. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. including ducks. coyotes and rabbits. Amargosa Valley. however. mallards. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. % 702-372-1131. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. moorhens. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country.
000. three newspapers. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. % 702-3725459. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. 19 hotels. maps. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. Now recognized as a state historic site.000.000 claims over 30 square miles. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. Amargosa Valley. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. for more information. PO Box 6102. NV 89020. 50 saloons.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. HC 70. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. Kelly’s Bottle House. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. % 702-5532200. . the gray. and the old train depot.
crystal chandeliers. when the money ran dry. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches.000. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95.000 dizzy with gold fever. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. Local residents were used as models. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. In the first decade of the 20th century. % 702-553-2424. Once the largest city in the state. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. Goldfield Founded in 1902. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. .000 a day worth of ore in 1907. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. however. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. By 1920.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. constructed in 1908 for $500. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. turn-of-the-century frontier community. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. Today the remains of stone buildings. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. life-size. keeping a population of more than 20.” a collection of white.
Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. the Central Nevada Museum. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. % 702482-3558. . pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. % 702-482-9676. and spend a few hours following its trail. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. 301 Brougher Avenue. however. Before heading out. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. including the old post office that is now the local museum. and east-west-running US 6. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. built in 1908 and still in use today. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. % 702-485-6365. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West.
call % 702-482-5355. Admission is free. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. and the 1907 George A. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. including a map room. photographs and exhibits. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. Like many Nevada locales. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. Located on the north edge of town. As a judge. slide show and research facilities. which helped put the state on the map. the town exploded – figuratively – and . The museum is open daily. In 1911. 9 AM to 5 PM. power plants. For more information. For more on these wonderful regions. Bartlett House. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. with Hawthorne the new seat.000 acres. ore bins. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. are available by special request. As this is being written. A library. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. which dates to 1906. which total more than 260. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. Mineral. see below under On Foot. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne.
% 702-945-3266. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. the town boasted 1. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. paved road on the right. (See On Water. fire and railroad equipment.000. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September.) Before heading to the lake. rocks. Nevada seat and the Mono . restaurant and Native American gift shop. Take this road six miles to the town. below. To reach Candelaria. a combination truck stop. and by 1890 the good times were over.000 residents. The Mineral County Museum. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. wildlife and fossils. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. cameras and photography. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s.500 people. at the corner of 10th and D streets. minerals. just three miles from the California border. The museum is open Monday through Friday. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. At the zenith of its existence. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. however. The main attraction. Victorian furniture. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. % 702-945-5142. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. Near the northern tip of the lake. is nearby Walker Lake. To see where it all started. 898 E Street. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. noon to 4 PM in winter. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. Admission is free. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
is open year-round. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. From . go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. From Caliente. The park. but travel is not advised during winter months. All of them offer overnight camping. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. Boats are not recommended. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. There are 42 campsites. pinyon and juniper forests.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. located in a long.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. set at 5. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. % 702-728-4467. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. For information on any or all. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. The 2. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. native plants and unique rock formations. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. below).200 feet. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. along with many other events.
head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Packed with historic points of interest. All told. government cover-ups. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. There are 37 campsites. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. they ran up to $1 million. for a walking/driving tour map. % 702-962-5215. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. From Caliente.000. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. Winter travelers might also find snow here. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. men in black and all things conspiratorial.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. hazy afternoon. The original building costs totaled $16. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. true believers theorize. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s.
% 702-729-2515. a thought scarier than any little green men. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. If you’re in the neighborhood. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. Ichthyosaurs. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. sleeping quarters. or fish lizards. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . including the old mill. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. selling souvenirs and literature. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. a bar and cemetery. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. The park is open all year. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell.
July. where desert bighorn sheep. From here go seven miles to a junction. deer. The hike begins on the road. the highest point in Nevada at 13. to NV 884. Return the way you came. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. elk. Located in the relatively dry. The trail climbs nearly 2. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. following a stream into Trail Canyon. October and November. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. To reach the park from Hawthorne. then half a mile east. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. The trail seems faint at times. June. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes.140 feet. There are numerous access points to the 115. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south.000 feet in 3½ miles. mountain lion. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. April. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. up through the sparse forest of . Interpretive tours are held in March. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. through Gabbs. call % 702-867-3001. From here. travel west six miles to NV 773. For more information. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. August.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. turn right. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping.
About 500 yards beyond the mill. The 38. nine miles from the trailhead. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. About a mile and a half later. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. Pine Creek. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead.361-foot Arc Dome. and at higher elevations. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. limber pine. The path descends further.020-foot Peavine Peak. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. too. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. The main trail leads straight ahead. where it crosses the water several times. up and up alongside the South Twin River. the trail gains 1. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. another narrow.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. . For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. pinyon pine and juniper. Consult Toms Canyon. USGS quads for Carvers NW. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast.
literally and figuratively. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. which tops out at 11. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. deer and coyote. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. The summit trail. The high point.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. is lined with aspen and birch. is imposing Mount Jefferson. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. mountain lion. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. In fact. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. . After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. 11.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. Return the way you came.949 feet above sea level.000 years ago. south. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. After turning west. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. Turn left and head toward the highest point. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. It was used as a hunting camp 5. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. going west. From Tonopah. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. which marks the way to Pine Creek.
As you’ll see.856foot Monitor Peak. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. To complete a nice loop hike. Hikers should have maps and a compass. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. From the trailhead. with Dry Lake off to the west. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. The 98. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. set aside in 1989. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. rugged country. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. This is remote. and the skills to use them. so travel with care.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. The main trail continues straight ahead. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. Elk. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. The trail first splits at mile three.000 acres. climbing up the creek drainage. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time.
then descending into Ash Canyon. . Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. in Echo Canyon State Park. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. Once atop the plateau. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. White’s masterful book. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. Wilderness Press. refer to Michael C. 1997. % 702-4826286. Meanwhile. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. some will lead hikes and photography trips. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. Enjoy the views. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Also close by. then continue south two miles back to the campground. crosses the water and begins a steep. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim.
Grand Slam Safaris. leaving a strenuous. PO Box 1149. % 702-482-6258. % 702-964-1207. you’ve gone too far. 89049. Lund Gary Luisetti. Yerington Marty S. Timberline Outfitters. James S. Moapa Adam R. Roy Lerg. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. PO Box 725. Berg. 27 Smith Gage Road. Round Mountain William A. % 702-964-2145. turn left and head due south. Stahl.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. unmarked hike to the summit.. . Galvin. PO Box 162. at 9. climbing into a small valley. PO Box 65. Just beyond the right-of-way. 89049. Mustang Outfitters. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. % 702-465-2598. Lewis. HCR 60.108 feet. % 702-283-7797. then continues south to a junction. 89317. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. The road turns east briefly. 89430. (If you pass Millers. 8½ miles from US 95. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. PO Box 428. 89025. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Box 77206. Mason Valley Guide Service. Smith. % 702-463-4497.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. Timberline Outfitters. Expeditions Unlimited. % 702-482-6422. 89447. Howard. PO Box 168. Jr. Nicholas Perchetti. 89045. 89045. which.
the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. The other ruins are on private property. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. The Belmont Saloon. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. is open for business on weekends. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. Continuing north. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. A few dozen people still live in the area. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. which was first settled in the 1860s. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. % 702-482-6331. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness.000 to construct in 1876. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. Manhattan boomed. For road conditions. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. % 702377-2490. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. known for abundant wildlife. Belmont saw most of the 2. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. so keep your distance. however.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. Just north of Pine Creek. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. and Pine Creek. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908.
stay out. but check on road conditions before you go. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. mountain mahogany and aspen. Mormon settlers were sent to this region.2 mile west of Lockes going south. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. Take an unpaved road . The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. For more information contact the BLM. . As tempting as a bath might seem. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. Continuing north. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). Not only is the water very hot. From Pioche. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. The springs are half a mile away. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. to establish missions. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. the fauna changes to ponderosa. Pioneer Territory Mt. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. % 702-482-7800. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. then part of Utah Territory.
% 702-727-8276. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. 13. 5340 South Oakridge Road. cutthroat and rainbow trout. % 702289-4865. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. Just a mile north of Dyer. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. brown. At Oakridge Landing. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. The road follows the creek west into the mountains.140-foot Boundary Peak. Two of the best spots are Peavine . Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. contact the BLM. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. % 702727-4504. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. Information Sources For more information and a map. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump.
picnic facilities and boat ramp. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. % 702-482-6286. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. October and November. rainbow and brown trout.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. After the road peters out. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. In fact.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. Covering 37. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. April. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. however. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. . About 70 miles north of Tonopah. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. The lake is named for Joe Walker.4 miles). Fishing derbies are held in February. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C.7 miles north of Hawthorne).000 acres.
both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. NV 89415. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. are the main attraction here. but motors are prohibited. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. 633 Schley Street. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Brown trout. Boaters are welcome. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Hawthorne. largemouth bass and white crappie. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). which are stocked in spring and fall. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. % 702-394-4040. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. while Canada geese. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. CA. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. Contact the refuge office. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides.000 acres. Howe. Classic Anglers. % 702-725-3417. for details. about 13 miles south of the confluence. 93514. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. write the group at PO Box 867. % 760-872-2533 . Kathleen L. Bishop.
PO Box 168. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Berg. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. home on the range. Jr. 89045. % 702-964-2145. 89447.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. PO Box 65. 89049. 89104. James S. Mustang Outfitters. Timberline Outfitters. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. % 702-889-8844. Box 77206. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. % 702-964-1207. at least temporarily. Tonopah Stanley R. Mason Valley Guide Service. % 702-3721717. Stahl. The big enchilada is Saddle West. Advance reservations are highly suggested. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . 89049. Suite 9B. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. The family-style outings. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. 89045. PO Box 1149. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 1220 South Highway 160. % 702-482-6258. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. PO Box 725.. HCR 60. % 702-482-6422. Howard. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Timberline Outfitters. Galvin. Nicholas Perchetti.
The Exchange Club Motel. including a heated pool. % 702-727-5100. % 702-4853431. % 702-727-5445. casino and lounge. $-$$. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. $. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. % 702553-2912. % 702-553-2333. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. has 32 rooms. a convenience store. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. With 110 rooms. $-$$. % 702-553-2250. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. The other two motels are the El Portal. 1201 South Highway 160. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. hair salon. was built in 1905. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. though. while the inn offers laundry services. lounge. $-$$. 9000 North 5th Avenue. which has 30 rooms and a pool. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. There are 60 rooms. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. $-$$. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. along with a pool and honeymoon room. a casino with live 21. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. % 800-508-9493. A lounge with live entertainment. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. $. $-$$.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. $-$$. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. Highway 160 at Loop Road. $-$$. $-$$. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. Don’t worry. % 702-553-2225. 604 Main Street. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. US 95 at First Street. In short. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. non-smoking rooms and a pool. 420 West Main Street. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. a restaurant. . There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs.
lounge with entertainment. % 702482-5920. pool and free in-room coffee. which has 93 rooms. two restaurants. % 702-945-2444. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. location. $. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. lounge. restaurants. % 702-482-6224. $. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. It has 94 rooms. % 702-482-6291. There are 103 rooms. a heated pool and a small play area. has 39 rooms. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. a Jacuzzi and a pool. % 702-945-2660. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. $. at very reasonable rates. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. 540 F Street. $. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. Adjacent to Walker Lake. and the 33-room Clown Motel. also has a pool. Location. 1402 5th Street. a casino. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. The Jim Butler Motel. 1100 Main Street. Just a block away. 100 South Main Street. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. 255 Main Street. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. % 702-482-3577. and the sprawling Station House. the Butler has 25 rooms. with 40 rooms. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. 1301 5th Street. workout equipment. $. 521 North Main Street. % 702-482-3511. $$. $-$$. a restaurant and bar. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. 1 Cliff House Road. $. $. with a restaurant. has been catering to travelers since 1943. 826 Main Street. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. free movies and is close to the convention center. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. % 702-945-3321. including four two-bedroom units. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. arcade and laundry. 323 Main Street. % 702-482-9777. a casino. $. 100 North Main Street. % 702-482-6202. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. a restaurant and free coffee. Some of the larger. The . RV hookups. % 702-945-3352. Even dogs are welcome. This place has it all: 75 rooms. % 702-482-6238. 700 Main Street. comes highly rated. Dating back to 1908. $. $$. RV parking and free continental breakfast. The Best Western Desert Lodge. If you’re into chains.
$. Jacuzzi. % 800-896-4567. $. various restaurants. 301 Mesa Boulevard. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. pool. 390 North Sandhill Road. which has two non-smoking rooms. % 702-463-2991. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. Jacuzzi. which at last count had 1. RV park and four bungalows. % 702-945-2143. . 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 11 North Main Street. tennis courts. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. a lounge. has five rooms. airport shuttle. with blueprints for hundreds more. family fun center and an airport shuttle. $$. $.900 or so residents. pool and movie theater. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. To find a quieter environment. $$-$$$. Just west of Smith in Wellington. restaurants. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. and the Rocket. fitness center and live music. 2827 Highway 208. Run by the Masini family. % 800-346-7721. a 925-seat showroom.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. The Casa Blanca. $-$$. on the corner of 5th and J streets. has 67 rooms. which has 14 rooms. % 702-945-3316. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. including dozens of suites. % 702-945-2573. pool.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. a pool and a hot tub. % 702-465-2959. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. % 702-465-2341. $-$$. $$. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. 694 Sierra Highway. Jacuzzi. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. a pair of family-style restaurants. $-$$. bowling alley. with a 24-hour casino. $-$$$. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. % 702-463-2998. movie theater and kids’ play area. 965 Sierra Highway. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. formerly Players Island. % 800-621-0187. 39 North Center Street. entertainment. % 702-465-2573. live entertainment.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. 720 Sierra Highway. $-$$. % 702-346-7444. pool and spa. golf course. % 800-346-4611. bars. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. which has 14 rooms. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. $. % 702-463-2481. $$. has 700 rooms. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. $$-$$$. a golf course. a pool. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. $$-$$$. the Hawthorne. % 702-945-2544.
884 A Street. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. has 13 rooms. 450 Front Street. % 702-751-7777. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. 100 West Stagecoach Road. Besides. Rose Garden. $-$$. Stagestop Casino. 100 LaCour Street. 1220 South Highway 160. % 702726-3777. a restaurant and bar. % 702-726-3106.99. . and welcomes pets. % 702-727-2404. % 702-727-7300. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. No fast food. % 702-962-5551. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. the Silver Spur. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. $. is open 24 hours a day. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. and the buffet starts at $2. % 702-727-7777. which has five rooms. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. which has 22 rooms. $. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. % 702-729-2515. At Saddle West Casino. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. also have full-service restaurants. pharmacy and bank. $. $-$$. 601 South Highway 160. $. Flying saucer parking is out back. % 702-726-3291.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. % 702-727-6440. % 702-727-0909. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. % 702-9625404. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town.
The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. % 702-482-6202. % 702-945-5253. % 702-945-3321. % 702-945-3908. is the home of two restaurants. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. 1100 Main Street. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. % 702-5532225. 1291 5th Street. open until 9 PM. % 702-4823885. The Exchange Club. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. try Happy Buddha. Traditional American and Continental fare. 923 5th Street. also has a 24-hour café. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. The Station House. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. % 702-9452994. 540 F Street. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. 501 I Street. 100 North Main Street. Maggies. % 702-945-2727. fill the menu. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. 11 North Main Street. 570 E Street. % 702-463-2481. % 800508-9493. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. % 702-553-2111. % 702482-9777. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. The . Yerington Casino West. % 702-945-3320. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. and Burro Inn. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. has a great $7. 785 E Street. including excellent seafood. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. % 702-553-2368. % 702-945-1700. 348 North Main Street. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. also have family-style restaurants. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. you could do worse than El Marques.
To reach the campground from Tonopah. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. 111 Highway 208. The Virgin River Hotel. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. along with the usual buffet. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. is like a blast from the 50s. serves breakfast. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. % 702-727-2314. The Casa Blanca. % 800-896-4567. 45 North Main Street. There’s even an indoor workout facility. Two blocks up. Dini’s Luck Club. lunch and dinner. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. % 800-346-7721. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 2281 West Scales Way. Peavine Campground is set at 6. Carl’s Burgers. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702463-2868. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. % 702-7263194. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. % 800-621-0187. satisfying and never-ending. 11 North ALT 95. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. which serves breakfast. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. % 702-4633707. has a 24-hour coffee shop. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. % 702-463-2054. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. The Mason Valley Country Club. 702-726-3138. % 702-4623300. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard.
For directions. For information. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson.800 feet in the Monitor Range. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. There is no running water and no fee. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. offers sites for $11 per night. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. % 702-945-3373. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. the unpaved road goes south briefly. The campground is another three miles away.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. see On Foot. From Tonopah. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. % 702-4826286. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. . above. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. providing access to fishing and hiking. To reach the campground from Tonopah. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. contact the BLM. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. There are 11 sites set at 6. through Belmont. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. % 702-687-6100. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. To reach the campground from Tonopah. From here.100foot level.700 feet.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005.
Falcon Press Publishing. 1997. Moon Publishing. Suggested Reading . They are listed in alphabetical order. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. 1993. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. DeLorme. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. 1990. Basin and Range by John McPhee.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. Frank Amato Publications. Falcon Press Publishing. American Automobile Association. 1993. published by the State of Nevada. 1998. 1994. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. 1997. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Noonday Press. Henry Holt and Company. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. 1995. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. David Communications. 1996. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. 1995. American Automobile Association.
. Clark. 1969. . Gem Guides Book Company. Mojave Books. 1997. La Siesta Press. Bischoff. Legend and Description by David J. Wilderness Press. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. 1997. 1992.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. American & Geographic World Publishing. 1993. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. The Globe Pequot Press. Falcon Press Publishing. Jr. 1995. 1993. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. White. Stolley. Falcon Press Publishing. Maturi. 1997. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L.
123. safety rules. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 187-190. 103. biking. 146. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. touring. 182. Pioneer territory. camping. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). see also petroglyphs. 118. 198. 164. 92-96. 193 Aurora. Cottonwood Valley. festivals. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 137 Candelaria. 46. 91 Barley Creek. events. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. touring. transportation. 185. 174-175 Austin. 182-183. price scale. 75-76. 184. Pony Express territory.183. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 2. Pioneer territory. 38. 118. see transportation air tours. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 169. 43-44. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. Pony Express territory. 8386. 117-118. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 181-182. see water sports car rental. 13-15. Las Vegas territory. Elko. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 187-190. specific towns airlines. 17. 115. 199. 193. 54-55. 152. 41-43. 131. Las Vegas. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 119-120. fishing. 35. 104. 179. 142. 117. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. horseback riding. camping. 50-52. restaurants. 155 boating. hiking outfit- Index . 115-116 ballooning. pictographs art galleries. 121. 13. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 142. skydiving. 117-119. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 135. 125-128. 15-16. 200 altitude sickness. 17. see transportation Carson City. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 104-107. 197. Bonneville Salt Flats. restaurants. 10-12. 132. 132-133. Reno-Tahoe area. 78 BLM. wildlife and bird watching antelope. Leonard Rock Shelter. 36. 113. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. touring. 199-201. safety rules. 124 auto racing. 126. camping. 200 Basque people. biking. 183-184. 67-70. 32. 156160. 94-95. 77. 48-49. 86. 26-27 buses. Mount Jefferson. 194. 168-169. Ichthyosaur State Park. Pony Express territory. touring. 78. 194. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 15-16 bird watching. wagon trips. 179. restaurants. 120-123. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. 67 bowling. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. biking. 187-188 biking. accommodations. special events. 144 backpacking. outfitters. 102. 3135. accommodations. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 198. camping. 29. 186 Belmont. hiking. 27. Las Vegas area. Reno-Tahoe area. 129-130 bungee jumping. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 174 canoeing. 76. fishing. 85. Pioneer territory. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 152. Lovelock Indian Cave. 169-170 Anasazi people. camping. events. 144. hiking. 49. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 10. Reno-Tahoe area. see also zoos. 28. 89. 15-16. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 163-164. 144. see also camping. 193-197. 42 burros. wild. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 27 books. restaurants. 154 animal life.Index 4WD tours and outfitters.
Rochester Mining District. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Camp Winfield Scott. 170. auto racing. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 97. Pioneer territory. 169. 180 Earth Connections. 93 Davis Creek County Park. Jungo. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 4-5 Gardnerville. 89. Midas. Lehman Caves. 109. touring. 153 Chimney Springs. 40. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. camping. Metropolis. touring. 161-162. 178. 172 golf. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 78 casinos. see events fish. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 74 Death Valley National Park. 12. Reno-Tahoe area. 170-171 Denio Junction. 194-195. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 176. 75.. 98 fossils. John C. 109. 174-175. 138-139. mercury warnings. 126-127. biking. 3. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. Las Vegas territory. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 65 gambling. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. Las Vegas area. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. accommodations. 86. 188-189 Clemens. 70-71. 179. 116-117. special events. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. Shermantown. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 179. 102-104. 192. 134-135. 125. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 179. 13-15. horseback riding. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 46 Comstock Lode. 149-150. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 87 Dayton. 111. 79. 112. 185. Lake Tahoe area. camping. outfitters. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 132-133. springfish. 175 climate. 15-16 Fremont. Pioneer territory. Gold Center. 131. 112. 4. 143-144. 182. 122-123. camping. accommodations. camping. camping. 17. hiking outfitters. outfitters. touring. 121-122. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 174. 163-164. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. skiing. outfitters. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 124. 70. 168. 143. 106. 186 elk. 155-156. 35-36. 80. 12. touring. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 137. hiking. 157-158. 125. 184. fishing. 127. 106 diving. 139 cruises. 137. Pyramid Lake Fishway. Toquima Cave. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. restaurants. camping. 29. 160 Goshute Mountains. 150-151. 108 events: Cowboy country. restaurants. 119. 170. 118. safety rules. pupfish. 126. 142. Samuel. 117. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. Eberhardt. 83. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. outfitters. Reno-Tahoe territory. 152. 137.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 120-121. accommodations. restaurants. camping. 109 Glacier Trail. 74. 190-193. 190 . 22. 43-44. transportation. 119. 18-19 climbing. 177. 82. fishing. Cowboy country. 77. Pony Express territory. sport-climbing ratings. 144. 115 Gold Center. 171. 121. 37-41. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 119-120. 6-7 ters. Hamilton. 187-190. 139140 Ely. 14 Colorado River. 137. 109. Las Vegas area. restaurants. 112 Genoa. Lovelock Indian Cave. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. hiking. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 44-48. events. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. Dunn Hatchery. 110.5 Cathedral Gorge. 67. 155. 125. 185. restaurants. 100. 73. fishing. touring. 179. camping. 147-148 Eberhardt. 188-189 fishing. Candelaria. 177. 15-16. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 176. 116. Northumberland Cave. 200 Cowboy Country. 167. 88. 171-172 Gold Point. 152-155. Rhyolite. hiking. 120. 98. 75. fishing. Treasure City. 139. 142 Great Basin.
hiking. horseback riding. 110-112. 148-149 Humboldt River. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. snow sports outfitters. 52-53. map. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. restaurants. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 179 Kingston. 83-84. 44 Las Vegas territory. 23-29. 78. transportation. camping. 31-35. Pony Express territory. 38. 65 Lake Tahoe region. boating outfitters. touring. 90 helicopter tours. Reno-Tahoe territory. 130. touring. 150. 86. 78-79 Jungo. water sports. 101. 91-92. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 141-142. restaurants. 82. 150. camping. 32-33 Lake Mohave. 102. camping. 20. 117 hotels. 49-50. 165-167. hiking. hiking outfitters. air tours. outfitters. 91 information sources. special events. 103 Hamilton. hiking. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. camping. Pioneer territory. 158. camping. 37-41. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. Spencer’s Hot Springs. outfitters. 48-49. 48. 120 Incline Village. touring. 62. watersports. 24. 93. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. skiing. 198. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 43. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 32 horseback riding. 140-141 land. 47. 50-52. skiing. 83. hiking outfitters. 195-196. Nevada. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. Las Vegas. 112-117. Pony Express territory. 127. Las Vegas territory. 53-54. biking. 152. 63-66. restaurants. 132 Lexington Arch.Index Great Basin National Park. Las Vegas territory. 106. 186-187. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 66. touring. 188-189. 36. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 193. 153. outfitters. 40-41. restaurants. 125. 57. 54. Pony Express territory. 149. camping. 176. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. 32-33. Pioneer territory. 164. touring. 145-150. 80-81 hiking. 151. Reno-Tahoe territory. 156. 159. see air tours Hemenway Park. 64. 77. 64. events. RenoTahoe territory. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. description of. 83. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 181-187. 149-150. touring. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 39. accommodations. 57-58. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 79. 88. 162. restaurants. touring and transportation. state. 99-100. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. restaurants. 65. 75. Midas Hot Spring. 46. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 41-43. 187 Manhattan. Cowboy country. 60. 119 Index . fishing. camping. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 41. 29-31. 146. 90. 45. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. transportation. 116-117. 39 history: Cowboy country. 137 kayaking. events. 47 lakes. Walley’s Hot Springs. 82. 118. transportation. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. balloning and soaring. touring. 160. 177 mercury warnings. 46. fishing. 21-22. 166. 118 Lone Mountain. camping. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. 111. 40. 3536. 55. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 13-15. Las Vegas area. 46. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 162. 129-131. Pioneer territory. hiking. 1. Reno. Kyle Hot Spring. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 37-40. 192. 107. 28. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. biking. 200-201. 163. 4WD trail. 98. 148-149 jeep tours. 132-134 Lovelock Culture.
190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 69. 72-73. 107. 3-4. 183. see biking mountain biking. Marzen House Museum. outfitters. touring. John. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 2. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 73. 35. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 69. 71. 189-190 Muir. 68. 73. Liberace Museum. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. Gold Well Open Air Museum. skiing and snowboarding. Stewart Indian Museum. 73. 4. 199. 69. 61. 91. 71. 31. horseback riding. 200 motels. 134 petroglyphs. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 25. The Castle. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 26. 70-71 mines and mining. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. The Way It Was Museum. 163. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. hiking. 174. 75. Las Vegas Art Museum. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 70. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 142 Midas. 175. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. see biking Mount Charleston. 10. 199 Metropolis. Desert Valley Museum. Beam Fine Art Gallery. Lyon County Muserum. Central Nevada Museum. Capitol Building and Museum. 102. 29 Mount Jefferson. 69. 68. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 103. 174. Mineral County Museum. 200. 26. 197-198. 181 Moapa. fishing. 71. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 73. 29. 158. Mark Twain Museum. Keck Minerals Museum. 25. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. touring. Humbolt Museum. fishing. 61. 43. 67. 77. 199-200. Western Folklife Center. camping. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. Nevada State Library & Archives. 177. 196197. camping. 68. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 34. 139. 127 pictographs. 25. 72. 33. 177. Clark County Heritage Museum. Northeastern Nevada Museum. May Museum and Arboretum. Piper’s Opera House. 61. 2. 8. 26. 193-194. 78. 173. 173. 171. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 61 music and theater. 34. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 34. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. see accommodations motorcycles. 80-81 Native American festivals. 43. White Pine Public Museum. hiking outfitters. Genoa Courthouse Museum. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 2. Marshall Mint Museum. Brewery Arts Center. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. restaurants. 73. 23 Overton: touring. 106 nuclear testing. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. restaurants. 4. 153. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 180 Minden: events. 187 Mojave Desert. 142. 25. 177. 98. 171. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 165 nuclear waste. 8182 Mesquite. 167-168 Paiutes. Roberts House Museum. accommodations. Wilbur D. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. National Automobile Museum. 79. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 26. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 170. 25. 135136. fishing. 107. 108. Fleischmann Planetarium. 32. 153 Northumberland Cave.206 n Index seum. 165. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 109. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 34. 83. Colorado River Museum. 69. 175. 139. 61. 86. 23. 188. Lost City Museum. 135. 109-110. 173. 126. 11 Mosquito Creek. Guinness World of Records Museum. hiking. 178. touring. 133. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. Nevada Historical Society. 25-26. Nevada State Mu- . 174. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking.
46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 106 Spooner Lake. hiking. 179. 114-115 theater. 180. camping. 87. touring. biking. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 12. biking. 170 rivers. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. Pony Express territory. touring. 74 races. Pioneer territory. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 193. Las Vegas territory. 185-186. fishing. 94 special events. Reno-Tahoe area. 91. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 193. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 180 Pioneer territory. 153 Sparks. 200 temperature chart. 197 rafting. 98. motorcycle. 90 sport climbing. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 154. 163. 36. 54. 17. transportation. 144. fishing. 82. 89-91 skydiving. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. horse. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 66. 190. 160-163. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 146-147. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 89. RenoTahoe area. accommodations. 88. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 167. special events.” 4 silver. 109 Shoshone people. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 17. 93-94. camping. bike. 96-97. 138 rock climbing. 49-50. hiking. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. see climbing rock hunting. climbing and hiking. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 197. touring. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 98. 59-61. 156. 143 Rachel. 142. touring. auto. hiking and climbing. 169 Pyramid Lake. skiing. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. water sports. 197-199. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. Benjamin “Bugsy. skiing. 9697. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. camping. 129-130. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 78. restaurants. 92-93. camping. 65 Pony Express territory. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 80 pronghorn antelope. 181. 52 pupfish. 17. 53-54. see mines and mining skiing. 173 Index . 76. 143. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 77. 26-27. fishing. 42. 13 Price Lakes. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 83-84. accommodations. 163-164. 9 Sand Mountain. 48-49 snowboarding. 113. fishing. 9-10. fishing. 198. 88 Shermantown. see skiing snowmobiling. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 165-201 plant life. see climbing springfish. 76. Las Vegas area. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 195. outfitters. 123-125. 144. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 77-78. 146. 163. 106 Siegel. 104. 179 Searchlight. 186-187. 144. hiking. hiking. 85. 84. 79-80. 187. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 150-151. 145-146 prostitution. 17. camping.Index Pioche: accommodations. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. snow sports outfitters. see events price codes. 78. 90 soaring. 54. 176 rodeos. 76. biking. 117. restaurants. 134. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. see events Round House Art Gallery. 112. 115. 84-85 swimming. restaurants. 79.
67. outfitters. climbing and hiking. events. Wilson Canyon. Lake Mead. 109 trees. 66. 30-31. 139-140 Treasure City. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. hiking outfitters. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 44-48. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 155. 144. hiking. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 196. touring. hiking. 39 vineyards. horseback riding. 26-27. 145-146.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 79-80. events. 106 trains. Reno-Tahoe territory. 20. Santa Rosa Mountains. 38. Pony Express territory. Hemenway Park. fishing. 163. Earth Connections. 85. 127. restaurants. 32. 160-161. 146. 150. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 176. 62. 151 Wovoka. 168 zoos. 183-184. 149. 143. 179. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 68. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 76. 200-201. outfitters. Ruby Mountains. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. hiking. 127. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 143. 73. 98. 192. 34-35. 80. 29. 172. 157. camping. wildlife and bird watching. rental cars. touring. 139. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 102. 71-74 Virgin River. 33. events. Ruby Marsh. see plant life tufas. camping. touring. camping. touring. buses. Mark. 31. Ely Elk Viewing Area. Winnemucca. 167. Echo Canyon State Park. see transportation transportation: airports. Jack’s Valley Road. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 155. 83. 62. 191 UFOs. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 150. 163-164. 80-81. outfitters. restaurants. 119-120. High Rock Canyon. 190-193. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 177. 162. camping. 77-78. 45. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 135-137. fishing. 168-169. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. restaurants. restaurants. Las Vegas territory. 187. Pioneer territory. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 164. 61. 89. 29-30. water sports. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 134 Twain. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 151 Wilson Canyon. 182-183. 75. 144. 55. camping. 176 Yerington: accommodations. 199. 185. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 156-157. Walker Lake. camping. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. 153-154. 111. touring. 117 Toquima Cave. Table Mountain Wilderness. touring. special events. 25 Topaz Lake. 159-160. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 97. Arc Dome Wilderness. 147-148. 159. 178. 191-192. Cleve Creek Campground. 31. 174 walking. 188-189. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 35. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 112. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 176 wineries. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 193 Walker Lake. 117. 41. 152-155. 193. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. Pioneer territory. 95. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 86 Wells: accommodations. 110. 174. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. restaurants. hiking outfitters. 104. 155 . 71. 62. Goshute Mountains. Amtrak. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations.
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