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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. giant sloths. These mammoths. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. that’s good news. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. According to author John Hart. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. bison. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. half-pound hot dogs. In fact. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. however. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. Among the 50 states. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. For anyone who loves the outdoors. In fact. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. as the top tourism destination in the US. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. which covers most of Nevada. horses. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. pausing on . About 27 million of them.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. you can have the whole wild.500 and 10.” and for good reason. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. you’ll know better. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. Florida.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx.
Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. wetlands and springs. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. Many prime archeological sites. shells. In 1776. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. hand tools. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. The Northern Paiutes. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. established trade routes. however. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. By about 500 AD. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. Jedediah Smith. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. In the south. points. In the 12th century. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. Exactly 50 years later. His party wintered in California. the first European entered Nevada.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. . then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. including southern Nevada. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. followed in Garces’ footsteps. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. fish hooks.
In 1859. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. The Comstock Lode. 1864. swelling the population well into five figures. as it came to be called. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. was dispatched to map the area. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. By 1857. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. DC. Fremont. covering most of Utah and Nevada. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. continued to oversee Nevada. then returned east along the route the next year. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. In 1843 and ’44. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. the Mormons were the first white residents. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. but abandoned it two years later. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. Introduction . In 1845. the church established the State of Deseret. John C. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. Nevada became a state on Halloween. In 1830. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. but the Utah Territory government. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. In 1849. which helped open the gateway to the West. camping at Las Vegas. and headed over the Sierras. with Brigham Young as governor.History n 3 In the north. and. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. encountering Pyramid Lake. Eight years later the first wagon train. who would later become a war hero. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. dominated by the church. In 1833. With westward emigration becoming all the rage.
The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. In the teens and ’20s. however. chief of the Northern Paiutes. In 1860. Carson City. the Big Bonanza. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. In 1873. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. was of a classy. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. upscale Vegas. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. Howard Hughes sud- . Ironically.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. was struck in Virginia City. violence escalated. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo.000 people in 1960. Winnemucca. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. son of Winnemucca. then picked up again in the early 1900s. killed two-thirds of them. Warriors under Numaga. Meanwhile. then underground tests for 30 more. began making money and the boom was on. Streets were laid out. particularly in southern Nevada. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. signed a treaty with the federal government. Siegel’s vision. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. the Flamingo soon reopened. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. bringing town sites. In 1874. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. opened in 1950. commerce and industry. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. In 1855. but was ambushed. Then in 1966. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. the mother of all lodes. later known as the Nevada Test Site. the first true hotel-casino. Reno and the surrounding areas. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall.
Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. moving to the region in record numbers. How much is too much. By 1970. find enough water. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. are reaping the windfall. But the explosion has not been without fallout. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. The entire West will be watching what transpires. Fallon and Mesquite. places like Elko. and Americans have become moths to the flame. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. a land dominated by a mobile population.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. This time. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. Winnemucca. To many. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. however. today there are master-planned communities.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. trappers. Mom and their 2. DC. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. . miners. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner.
down a range. and so on. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. In fact. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks.000 feet in the space of a few miles.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. hills and uplands. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. then up another range. then disappear into their respective “sinks. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Nevada even has its own 10. gurgle through the northern part of the state. Yes. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. In the north. Here. Fremont in 1844.000 feet. across a sagebrush-covered basin.063 feet. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. The Colorado River .839foot Matterhorn. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. Named by explorer John C. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. reservoirs and other watery bodies. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. the Carson and the Humboldt. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. Get the idea? After all. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. Near Las Vegas. Wheeler Peak. On the other side of the state. The notion of Nevada as a flat. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. towers over Great Basin National Park. down another range. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada.000 feet to nearly 12. dry. lakes. 13. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. The roof of Nevada is 13. Depending on who’s counting.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. with nine ranges topping 11.
It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. are the only reliable. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. including Las Vegas and Laughlin.000 acres. establishing 77. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. Lower and drier. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. a great inland sea that 50. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. In the 1970s. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. the southeastern corner of Nevada. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere.000-acre Great Basin National Park.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. it’s an uphill climb all the way. In 1989. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. most notably Lake Tahoe. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. For the greens. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness.500 square miles of western Nevada. natural sources of running water. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers.000 years ago covered 8. the largest alpine lake in North America. only 65. in the remote north near Jarbidge. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730.
What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. Death Valley. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. greasewood. At elevations above 6. Apart from aspens. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. horsebrush and shadescale. The squat Utah juniper. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. is generally found throughout the state between 5. The recommendations have been under review for years. 14 national recreation areas.000 and 8. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley.000 feet. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). then whittled that down to less than two million acres. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. Still. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. with its tiny. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. the soil supports .000 feet above sea level. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). such as rabbitbrush. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify.
ponderosa pine. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. The Joshua tree. Washoe pine. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. bristlecone pine. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. hallucinogenic sacred datura. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. up to 5. hedgehog and barrel. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. lodgepole pine. which is actually a type of yucca. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. the official state grass.000 feet. blooms by night here. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. willow and dogwood. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. along with alder. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. In the mountains. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. or jimson weed. which make up just 1% of the land.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. Above the desert floor. prickly pear. The king of Great Basin vegetation. the mountain lion. western white pine. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. At the other extreme. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. creosote bush has an oily.000 years. The rare. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. Black bears. however. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass.
It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. beaver. Gambel’s quail. The desert bighorn sheep. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. Trout are the favorite of anglers. with Lahontan cutthroat. prairie falcon. badger. also live in the Mojave. while mule deer are abundant. the black widow and brown recluse. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. coyote. fox. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. help comes from hunters. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. brown. greater roadrunner. kangaroo rats. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. America’s two poisonous spiders. chuckwalla. Ironically. Blacktail jackrabbits. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. brook. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. seen on Nevada’s license plates. skunk. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. In the air over the desert. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. Meanwhile. pika. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. golden and Dolly Varden . weasel. rainbow. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. redtailed hawk. Snakes include several types of rattlers. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. burrowing owl and canyon wren.
broken down by specific locales. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. Reno-Tahoe Territory. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. This section also includes sources for expert information. Along with detailed information on where to go. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. culture and most attractive features. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . on snow and in the air. on land. Cowboy Country. A section on Touring follows. covering its history. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. on water. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. like almost every other Nevada visitor.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. such as visitors bureaus.
. $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. .12 n Introduction ing chart. Trails may be gone. . forethought and patience. . . . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. Backpacking. . . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . . . . . . . . . Up to $50 per day $$ . . . . . Finally. $50 to $100 $$$ . . . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . . . . . . . . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. Accommodations Price Scale $ . . . . Hiking. . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. so use these symbols only as a general reference. . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry.
. occasionally using hands Class 4 . Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. using the hands.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 . ranging from . the lower numbers (. so help is usually a long way away.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be. the most popular among serious rock climbers. Class 2 . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada.Easy hiking. it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly.0 to .0 to . known as the Yosemite Decimal System. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb.14 (and sometimes beyond). but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 .Adventures n 13 Finally.Boulder hopping. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move.Climbing. As this guide goes to press. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. For Class 5 routes. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 .
and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. Storms are more common in the afternoon. If the plan changes. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. clothing. As with all outdoor activities. climbers enter the realm of myth. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. Be aware of conditions. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong.10. not hard-and-fast rules. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. Always take fresh water with you. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. n n n n n . dehydration and lightning. Give them descriptions of yourself. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. climbing partners. taking into account personal experience. legend. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Don’t travel alone. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. until all holds disappear at . and the weather when determining the safest course of action. use common sense before you get into trouble. By their nature. Pack spare everything – food. In the arid country of Nevada. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. then amended by subsequent climbers.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. Assistance can take hours or days. Beyond that. Begin hiking early in the day. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded.
Not one of those trendy. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. . The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. tools.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. but a powerful. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. four-wheel-drive vehicle. spare belts. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. extra gas. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. jack. preferably one with a large gas tank. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. water and fluids. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. Arizona. high-clearance job.
tips and maps to the latest hot single track. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. Phoenix. For more information on desert survival. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. contact DARES. 85096. n If you find a traveled road. AZ. n If water is in limited supply. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. minimize talking and eating. is more popular than ever. when you left and where you are headed. Mountain biking in Nevada. however. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. . n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. Do not ration water. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. stay on it. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. of course. drink it as needed. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. in wilderness areas). The rest of Nevada. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. left out of popular literature. n If you have water. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. stay put. PO Box 39340. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. leave a note telling searchers who you are.
there are tourists. Fishing. At these higher elevations. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Skydiving. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. Soaring Where there is Vegas. Many streams. the gem of the Sierras. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. And where there are tourists. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. and gigantic Lake Mead. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. lakes and reservoirs. Ballooning. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. but take extra care. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Meanwhile. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. there are all types of sky-high adventures. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers.
some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. In the Great Basin. If thunderstorms threaten. throwing rain.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. Summer and early fall can be blistering. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. get out of lowlying areas. Laughlin. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. although they can occur at any time of year. but despite the obvious danger. . summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. temperatures above 110° are common. on the Colorado River. Leave the high altitudes as well. These storms are known to appear with little warning. Flashfloods are the predictable result. For those who like to watch. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports.
www. 1100 Valley Road. In southern Nevada. Baker. too. NV 89502. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. Nevada Division of Wildlife. % 702-687-4219. NV 89311. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. % 801-625-5182. US Forest Service. basin winters can be chilly. . 850 Harvard Way. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. % 702-687-4384.travelnevada. NV 89710. For information on specific locales. % 800-NEVADA-8. windy. Ogden. Capitol Complex. Nevada Commission on Tourism. Carson City. 84401.com. Nevada Division of State Parks. % 702-688-1500. NV 89712. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. Bureau of Land Management. Great Basin National Park. NV 89703. UT. % 702234-7331. NV 89520. Reno. Intermountain Region. Carson City. Carson City. see the listings that accompany each chapter. In the mountains. 1263 South Stewart Street. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. Nevada Department of Transportation. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. 1300 South Curry Street. % 702-785-6500. 324 25th Street. Reno. In the north. rainy and occasionally snowy.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter.
000-foot peak. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. cheap food. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. . in plain view of the casinos. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. closer. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. try hiking to an 11.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. both prehistoric and otherwise. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. lounge shows – and recently.000-year-old petroglyphs. Inside the city limits.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. actual cosmopolitan. Sunday. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. % 702-363-1921. $3. 9 AM to 9 PM. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. 10 AM to 5 PM. % 702-895-3011. Dedicated to Mr. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. Just off the glittering Strip. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. % 702-798-5595. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). 8 AM to 4:45 PM. The tax-deductible admission is $6. Seasonal streams. $4. is the Liberace Museum. 1 PM to 5 PM.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. faculty and invited artists. giant. % 702-895-3893. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. Ham Concert Hall. Admission is $4. but no less extravagant. features work by students. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. Southeast of the Strip. % 702-895-3381.95 for seniors and students. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. 8 AM to 5 PM.95 for adults. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. Showmanship.95 for adults. Yes. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin.50 for seniors. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. call % 702-895-3801.
but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. % 702-875-4191. saloon. Back on US 95. With structures dating back to 1864. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. the road to Mt. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. The restaurant and bar are open daily. under Adventures on Foot. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. later during summer months. The admission is $5 per vehicle. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. 8 AM to 11 PM. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. (See below.) The best time to take the 13-mile. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . % 702-875-4141. Today there is a restaurant. Charleston. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. 7 AM to dusk. 8 AM to sunset. 5 PM in the winter. one-way loop drive is early morning. The park is open daily. have been unearthed here. The park is open daily. The park is open daily. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days).Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. wife of a German munitions tycoon. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is $4. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. petting zoo. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. % 702-486-5413. trail rides and a “real” Western town. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered.
the Mt. under Camping. Charleston Loop.) After the hike. % 702-872-7098.) Pitch a tent. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. see below under On Snow. under On Wheels. % 702-872-5408. under Adventures and Camping. Bighorn sheep. Charleston Hotel. desolate valley.918 feet. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95.000 vertical feet of runs. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill.) . % 702-646-3401. % 702385-2SKI.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. 17-mile. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. % 702-872-5500.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. and its 1. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. In the winter. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. under On Foot. (See below. At the northern edge of the reservation. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. Charleston Lodge. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Nevada’s state animal. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. completing the Mt. (See below. elevation 11. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. (See below. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. (See below.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. The 1.
% 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory .Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines.
% 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-372-1981 Dollar.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. AA Auto Rentals.
stopping downtown.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. Admission is $1. Gray Line Tours. . NV 89109. On the north side of Boulder City. NV 89109. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. The museum is open daily. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. % 800-332-5333. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. % 702-455-7955. 444 Hotel Plaza. 1830 South Boulder Highway. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. 3150 Paradise Road. % 702-735-1616. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. Call % 800USA-RAIL. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. % 702-294-1888. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum.50 for adults. Did it work? Judge for yourself. $1 for seniors and children under 16. 711 East Desert Inn Road. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day.
% 702-565-8591. Hoover also created Lake Mead. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. Children under 10 are free. $2. Hoover Dam took 5. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. fishing. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. % 702-293-8907. 89105. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. Las Vegans. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. for information on camping. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. and 45 feet thick at the top. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. 100 Nevada Highway. The cost is $5 for adults. 660 thick at the base. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. Phoenix and Los Angeles. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. swimming.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. (See On Water below.) Be sure to heed the . All of 726 feet high. head back toward Boulder City. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. % 702-293-2034. boating and diving. 500 South Boulder Highway. 89005.
The displays in the visitor center. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. explain the geology and forces of erosion. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. % 702-293-6180. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. Go straight to reach Henderson. From the visitor center. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. Back on Nevada 167. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. nearly five miles off the highway. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. % 702-397-2088. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. . or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. Just beyond the bay. Beyond here. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. a public swimming and boating area. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. thank you. which rests on the Virgin River.
constructed his Riverside Casino. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley.000 visitors a month.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. on Lake Mojave.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. Saturday. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. % 702-297-1682. The museum is open Monday through Friday. see below. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. bar and bait shop. % 520-754-4606. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. campground and fishing and swimming spots.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. 355 Highway 95. relives those days. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. % 520-754-3399. (For details on all three. 125°. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. 9 AM to 5 PM. % 520-754-3272. % 520-754-3628. East of Searchlight 14 miles. Named for a brand of matches. with motel. Arizona. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. the town was a gold. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. in Bullhead City. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. % 800-46-4584 . under Adventures. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. % 702-297-1464. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. South of here is camping. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. 9 AM to 1 PM. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. Admission is a $1 donation. a campground and marina. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. Nevada’s record-high temperature.
April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. 1555 South Casino Drive. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 800-227-5254. % 310-448-1822. as many as 6. % 800-736-6247 United Express. % 800-331-1212 Budget.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. May is the busiest month. Special Events February In February. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. host- . % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. % 800-227-5245. % 702-798-6405. % 702-876-3380. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. In Laughlin.
comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. % 800-227-5245. . % 702-8953900. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. takes place in Vegas. % 702-386-3926. also takes place in October. % 702-2939256. % 702-293-1611. and the National Finals Rodeo. % 702-898-6565. % 702-631-7000. Later in the month. % 702434-0848. % 702687-5777. Navaho and Mojave peoples.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. the International Black Heritage Festival. the Parade of Lights. a three-day balloon rally. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. % 702-457-5775. to downtown. % 702-452-8066. % 702-293-2034. take place in Boulder City. % 702-457-2797. to town. % 800-637-1006. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. to the campus of UNLV. Another balloon festival. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. % 702-293-4857. August In August. blows in. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. to the waters of Lake Mead. floats into Laughlin. the Las Vegas Classic. % 702-4541212. October Art in the Park. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. a confluence of Southern Paiute. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-870-1221.
White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5.11b). especially in winter months. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. so chalk often stays put for months. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. At nearby Willow Springs. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. Utah. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. Stratocaster (5.11).11d) offers more advanced routes. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Chicken Eruptus (5. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. Sheep Trail (5.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. while nearby Cloud Tower (5.11). is only 35 minutes from the Strip. Other routes in- . sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. is to mountain bikers. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer.8).9).9) has 1.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. in fact. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes.11). Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5.11+). so take extra precautions when adventuring here. Red Rock attracts free climbers. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.12a).7) crag and mixed climbing walls. The Choad Warrior (5. Crimson Chrysalis (5. Graveyard Waltz (5. At the end of a 90-minute approach.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. To the west.
000 feet. At the aforementioned fork. to savor the 300-mile views. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. toward a ridge at 11. Rainbow Buttress (5. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. The 3. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. About seven miles from the visitor center. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak.000 feet in four miles. gaining 3. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. & For more information.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5.10 or 5. published by the American Alpine Club. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. Chockstone Press. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road.918 feet. The trail switchbacks time and again. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail.6).8) and Eagle Dance (5.000 feet. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. The South Loop Trail. elevation 11. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. 17 miles round-trip. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. See Outfitters. ending at a small dam and the spring. . which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. page 41. consult the Bible of local climbers. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. Following the fork. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. an easy six-mile round-trip.12). The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12.
thunderstorms and snow. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. contact the US Forest Service. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak.000 feet above the desert. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. covering two miles and gaining 1. Beginning on a dirt road. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. To the northwest.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. For trail information and weather and safety updates. the trail climbs 1. At lower elevations. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. . Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. Never take these altitudes lightly. gaining 1.4 miles. Mountain T Ranch. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards.000 feet to a saddle.000 feet into the northeastern sky.
600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. 89124. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard.2 miles. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. heading for the northernmost outcropping. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. go 6. % 702-596-2953. climb a gully to reach a ridge. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. HCR 33. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. % 702-254-5604. . Climb northward up the slope. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. outlines the easiest route. Sports & Adventure Tours. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. ascending northwest. 89180. Rocky Trails. % 702-434-3388. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. and park at the end of the road. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. turn right. Just south of this outcrop. then go northwest to another plateau. Las Vegas. % 702-364-8687. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. which is marked by a post. Bruce Grubbs. PO Box 80875. Falcon Press Publishing. 89137. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. Suite 4. PO Box 371324. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Stay below the northern peaks. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. Las Vegas. Las Vegas 89117. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. % 888-86ROCKY. PO Box 1. % 702-223-2176.
however. % 702-798-6565. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. % 702-458-8870. % 702-649-6819. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. can arrange a covered wagon trip. % 702-2567433. Hahn’s World of Surplus. Armed . maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. % 702362-7177. % 702387-2457. Silver State Old West Tours.6 mile to a dirt road. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . Las Vegas. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. Desert Outfitting. Peak Sports. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. PO Box 19210. Cowboy Trail Rides. % 702-252-7114. % 702-875-1978. % 702-383-0838. At mile post 17. 89132. 617 Hoover Avenue. % 702-254-1143. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. Desert Rock Sports. 4065 East Patrick Lane. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. Wagons West.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables.
zoom downhill to the fork. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. go to the next intersection. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. scanning for a cairn on the left. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. After beginning another climb. turn right. Las Vegas.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). At the road. 4765 Vegas Drive. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. make a quick right and head downhill. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. a six-mile loop. NV 89126. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. Take this until you reach a double track. Turn right. PO Box 26589. % 702-647-5000. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. heading uphill. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. Turn right. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. Go left here. contact the Bureau of Land Management. Head downhill. before heading out. and pump uphill. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. . turn left to another intersection and turn right. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. flying downhill and then up to another road. A double track soon appears on the right. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. For a more challenging excursion. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. For a tamer road trip.
% 702-252-8077. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. At about the 10-mile mark. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. . 7934 Cadenza Lane. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. % 702-646-3401. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. Turn left to return to US 15. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. Las Vegas Bikes USA. 16 Cottonwood Drive. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. Downhill Bicycle Tours. % 702-642-2453. R&R Cycling.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. % 702-596-2953. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. the byway forks. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. Ski Chalet. Escape the City Streets. % 702-451-9586. % 702-876-8687. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. % 702-8978287. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard.
maps and more information on backcountry byways. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. % 702-454-5555. an avid angler for more than 50 years. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. 4765 West Vegas Drive. . Suite B. % 888-REELRIO. is on the premises. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. % 702-380-6969. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. of all places. 89101. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. 713 East Ogden Street. crystal-clear hotel pool.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. It begins. For details. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. 3700 Flamingo Road. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. 2810 South Highland Drive. Rebel Adventure Tours. 8 AM to 11 AM. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. Old West Territory Tours. % 702-796-9355. % 702-646-8800. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. Las Vegas.
But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. meals and overnight lodging for $449. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. and two. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. Thomas. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. rents houseboats. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power.to three-days notice is required. under Boating Outfitters. instruction and gear. % 800-34-SCUBA. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. offering professional advice. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. Boulder Beach. powerboats and cruisers. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. water skiing. largemouth bass and trout. Off Nevada 167. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). Forever Resorts. For details. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. . The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. jet skiing. % 800-2555561. (See below.) Swimming. flows into Lake Mead. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). about three miles across at its widest point. The expert staff is available seven days a week. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals.500-acre ranch in Utah.
46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. HCR 30. Lake Mojave Farther south. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. % 702-293-6180. Las Vegas. particularly near cliffs. Lake Mead Cruises. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. % 702-252-7114. 89006. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. is the local fishing and boating hub. The cost is about $65 per person. 89124. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. PO Box 61235. PO Box 100. 322 Lake Shore Road. Calville Bay Resort. . Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. offers trips from January through November. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. 89102. 89006. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. % 702-754-3245. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 800-696-RAFT. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. Return transportation is provided by bus. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Las Vegas. % 702-2931190. % 702-565-8958. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. Near Laughlin. PO Box 62465.
% 702-3944000. Fiesta Queen Cruises. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702565-0696. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Clearwater Flyfishing. 89029. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. Sunset Bait & Tackle. Overton. % 702-452-8299. 89040. % 702-437-9283. Overton Beach Marina. 1450 Newberry Drive. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. Tom’s Water Skiing. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. % 702-433-3263. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. PO Box 29279. Overton. 89040. % 702-459-2080. 520-758-6242. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. % 800-228-9825.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. % 702297-1464. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. Bullhead City. % 702-564-5660. Laughlin. % 702-5659111. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. 89028. AZ. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. 4290 Boulder Highway. % 702-388-1022. . Laughlin River Tours. PO Box 29279.
Jim Goff. % 702-564-1558. % 702-385-4321. 810 Circus Circus Drive. 3800. 161 East Rancho Drive.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. Even more memorable. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. The company claims more than 500. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. . % 702-565-8396.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. % 702-871-1399. however. Utah. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. Karen Jones. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. A jump is $59. HB Fishing Guide Service. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. Arizona and Zion. citing growing noise problems. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon.J. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. complete with guided ground tours and meals. ext. Hackett Bungy. 1500 Palomino Drive. Henderson Bill Spellman. noon to 9 PM. % 702-451-4004. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. Saturday until midnight. 68 Mallory Road. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. % 702-5657583. % 702-434-0848. With commercial balloon tours.
3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard.ultimateballoonadven. % 800-8-SKYDIV. 806 Buchanan Street. NV 89117. Scenic Airlines. % 702-293-1860. % 800-216-8330. % 800-359-8727. Jean Airport. 806 Buchanan Street. D&R Balloons. Air Vegas Airlines. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. % 800-255-7474. Web site www. Heli USA. % 800-634-6377. Set at a base elevation of 8. % 702-736-0013. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Boulder City. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. PO Box 19629. Las Vegas. 89005. % 800-634-6851. Las Vegas. % 800-535-4448. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving.com. 89109. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. 241 East Reno Avenue. Skydive Las Vegas. Sundance Helicopters. Las Vegas Airlines. % 702-385-2SKI. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . 3275 Rosanna Street.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. % 702-877-1010. % 702-221-9199. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. #115-200. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. Jean. NV 89019. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. Ultimate Balloon Adventures.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. Eagle Canyon Airlines. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. 200 Convention Center Drive. 2705 Airport Drive. % 800-446-4584. King Airelines.
when rates are lower and lines are shorter. % 800-272-7426. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. All they do is take up space. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel.000 techies to Sin City. After all. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. 600 East Fremont Street. 18 East Fremont Street. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. Above all. over 100. % 702-385-5200. it seems.000 visitors. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. For more serious snow. are booked solid on weekends. luring 200. The place was once part-owned by in- . the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. HO TE L Many hotels. if possible.000-room MGM Grand. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. % 702-646-0008. even behemoths like the 5. $-$$$. 2395 North Rancho Road. % 702-385-1664. $-$$. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. But somehow. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town.
the young upstarts. % 702-740-NYNY. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. 128 East Fremont Street. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. $$-$$$$. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. The Mirage. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. across from the Fashion Show Mall. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. however. $-$$. % 702-732-5111. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. % 702-385-7111. The movie Rainman was shot here. The Golden Nugget. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. The Four Queens. New York.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. Caesars Palace. % 702-791-7171. dominate the Strip. Down the street. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. Monte Carlo. $-$$. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. % 702-740-NYNY. % 702-894-7111. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. $$-$$$. 202 East Fremont Street. Across the street is the green giant. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. New York is out there. way out there. the Flamingo. has 1. South of here. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3000 Paradise Road. % 702-3821600. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. If staring at wealth is your thing. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. $$-$$$$. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 1 Main Street. Next door is the Island’s big sister. $$$-$$$$. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. who built the first casino resort. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). $$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. % 702-385-4011. % 702-386-2110. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. % 702-731-7110. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. The faux volcano. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe.037 rooms. $$-$$$$. New York. the MGM Grand. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. is a crowd-pleaser. $$$$$. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. Even by Vegas standards. 129 East Fremont Street. and New York.
Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. On the outskirts of Vegas. % 702-735-1616. % 702-872-5408. the Mt. Charleston Hotel. % 702-872-5500. set at 7. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. has 2. TIP Laughlin For the most part.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. In the Spring Mountains. $-$$$. At this book goes to press. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River.000. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. Bonnie Springs Motel. contrary to popular belief. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas.000 visitors a month and climbing.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. contact the Chamber of Commerce.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. % 702-875-4400. % 702-262-4555. $$-$$$$. positively sedate with its 5. $$-$$$$. too.500 rooms. but don’t count on that for long.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. while Bellagio will boast 3. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. three Motel 6s. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. . 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $-$$. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. which eliminates Reno. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. % 800-634-3988.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. Charleston Resort.
the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-3807711. $-$$$. Nearby. % 702735-8686. % 702-298-4000. contact the Chamber of Commerce. 202 Fremont Street. The Edgewater. while the Golden Nugget. % 702-298-7111. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. Hamada. serves upscale Italian fare. % 702-732-5111. 2000 South Casino Drive. $-$$. 401 South 6th Street. To really dine UPtown. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . $-$$. however. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. classy Hugo’s Cellar. The Ramada Express. Off the main drags. % 702-298-2535. 2900 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-5111. has 1. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. and Harrah’s. while the Colorado Belle. Café Michelle. % 702-298-2453. % 702-733-3111. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. % 702-298-4600. % 702-298-2214. 2100 South Casino Drive. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. An excellent buffet. Andiamo. After a few meals at most of these troughs. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. At the Flamingo Hilton. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. $-$$$. and very expensive. 1350 East Flamingo Road. and Gatsby’s. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. On the Strip. 1650 Casino Drive. % 702-891-7374. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. % 702-385-4011. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. % 702-385-5016. $-$$$. % 702-252-7777. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. 3700 West Flamingo Road. sports a railroad theme. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique.000 rooms. 1900 South Casino Drive. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. Downtown at the Four Queens. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. 2121 South Casino Drive. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. $$$$. both at the MGM Grand. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. % 702-298-4200. $-$$. offers 2. 2300 South Casino Drive. opened in 1990.500 rooms. in the Las Vegas Hilton. Emeril’s. Andre’s. Eurasian mélange. % 702-891-7337.
Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. Charleston. as the name implies. Chicken is the house specialty. % 702-794-0700. 2504 East Fremont. % 702-693-5000. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. 4455 Paradise Road. although the Lodge. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. % 702-873-5222. For satisfying American favorites. is the oldest restaurant in the city. For a Latin taste. Kyle Canyon. 3900 Paradise Road. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-298-2242.400 feet. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. All five campgrounds have piped water. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. in the shadow of Mt. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. seven days a week. is the most popular Chinese place in town. . Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. % 702733-8899. Fong’s. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. % 702-363-1921. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground.000 and 8. The Green Shack. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. % 702-384-4470. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. 308 West Sahara Avenue. serves fine steaks and seafood. Suite Z. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. For information. Chin’s. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. having opened in 1932. so be prepared for extreme weather. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. Near the end of Nevada 157. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. while moderately pricey. which. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. call % 702-873-8800. % 702-383-0007. serves hip. % 702-2984600. % 702-382-1644. The elevation here ranges between 7. Phillip’s Supper House.
Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. call % 702-646-3401. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. there’s Boulder Beach. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. north of town on Lake Mojave. % 520-754-3272. On the Virgin River to the north. Las Vegas Territory . To the east of Vegas. In Valley of Fire State Park. For information on all five locations. % 520-7544606. Calville Bay has 80 sites. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. For information. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. Moving north from Boulder City. On the north shore. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. % 702-397-2088. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. Across the river from the Strip.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169.
Heavenly and Mt. Of course. Las Vegas. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. In the winter. At the heart of this region. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. just east of the California-Nevada border. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. The Truckee River. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. Reno.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. and for good reason. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. the city of Reno is the . the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months.000 feet. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. With a surface elevation of more than 7. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. Rose resorts. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. the largest alpine lake in North America. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters.
where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. . The place dates back to 1851. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. Just south of Carson City. where everyone expects Ben. North of Pyramid Lake. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. Farther south. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. The Carson River. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. are walks back in time. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. meanwhile. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. an ancient. Fort Churchill. 8. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. Washoe Lake State Park. on the shores of Washoe Lake. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. Farther east of Carson City. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. About 30 miles north of Reno. which meanders – sometimes wet. Pyramid Lake. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. Today this mirage-come-true.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno.
From here. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. or at least slow. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. there isn’t a glass pyramid.W. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. In 1863. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. From Carson City. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. In 1852. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. % 800-FOR-RENO. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. From Reno.H. Like Vegas. for a schedule. No. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. H. the city continues to grow rapidly. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. and in 1859 C. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. which hosts special events in warmer months. North Virginia Street. the latter beginning in Wadsworth.
this is it. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. From a historical point of view. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. .
is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. has been at that location since 1946. The Nevada Historical Society. 1265 Deerlodge Road. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. On the north side of the city.) The Wilbur D. 1502 North Washington Street. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. boasts three treasures. houses one of the world’s best collections. % 702-7855961. turn right. % 702-688-1190. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. Great Basin Adventure. the National Automobile Museum. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. but call first for hours. % 702-333-9300. On the suburban south side of Reno. % 702-784-4528. the campus of the University of Nevada. About 10 minutes north of the university. On the northern outskirts of the city. % 702-788-3773. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. To get there. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. (See below under On Foot. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. Animal Ark Nature Center. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. May Museum and Arboretum. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. 1650 North Virginia Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory . The staff welcomes visitors daily.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. Fleischmann Planetarium. % 702-334-2600. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. houses a theater and telescope. a nifty historical theme park. % 702-969-3111. April through October. 10 South Lake Street. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. And the Keck Minerals Museum. is a well-known. 300 North Center Street. is also located here. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. % 702784-4812. When arms get tired. including black bears and kit foxes.
Canadian Airlines. K-T Services. % 800-225-2525. % 800-231-2222. % 800-654-3131. % 800-4-SHUTTL. % 800-CAR-RENT. % 702-328-6400. United Airlines. Northwest Airlines. Southwest Airlines. TriStar Airlines.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-221-2000. % 800-527-0700. % 800-359-2472. % 800-218-8777. Thrifty. % 702-882-3375. Alaska Airlines. % 800-435-9792. Reno Air. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. National. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-453-9417. Enterprise. Delta Air Lines. % 800-221-1212. % 800-241-6522. If you don’t have a car. . TWA. No Stress Express. Avis. Budget. % 800-800-4000. Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-331-1212. % 800-426-7000. Greyhound Lines. % 800-654-7037. % 800-367-2277. % 800-235-9292. America West Airlines. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. Airlines Air 21. % 800-736-6247. Hertz. Lloyd’s International. Dollar. % 800-325-8007.
state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. the waters are now finding friends in high places. restore forest and watersheds. local. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. Fortunately. NV 89505. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. 405 Marsh Avenue. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. is a study in contrast. % 702-686-3030. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. but the future of the Basin itself. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. At press time. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. provides an interesting mix of adventures. a marvelous intermingling of water. Reno. % 800-FOR-RENO. 98 Colony Road.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. respectively. Reno. in his journal Roughing It. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. In reality. trees and sky. All told. 4590 South Virginia Street. NV 89502. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. control erosion and acquire open land. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. In 1861. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. year-round outdoor playgrounds. % 702-329-2936. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. rock.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. the unique Ponderosa Ranch.50 for kids. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. at 10. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. $5. But in between them. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek.776 feet. with its full slate of running water. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. The beaches are open daily. After the buzz of the ranch. Three miles south of Incline Village. (See below.) Up the twisting NV 431. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. is a welcome respite. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. called Diver’s Cove. Admission is $8. % 702-849-2511. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. % 702-831-0691. is well-known to snorkelers. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. The park. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. open May through November. stands out amid the pines. restrooms and picnic areas.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. under On Foot. along the eastern shoreline. % 702-831-0494. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Viewed from the highway.50 for adults. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. The north end of the beach. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side.
96151. Sailing. This is the home port of the Dixie II. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. Every summer. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. (See below. The price for such sloth is $10. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. under On Snow. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. then into the broad Washoe Valley. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . restaurants. The day-use fee is $5. Stateline.) For the unmechanized. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. PO Box 7139. CA. May through November. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. canoeing. under Adventures and Accommodations.50 per adult. At Tahoe Village. also offers excursions. (See below. a nature trail circles the lake.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. % 702588-3000. Booming in the winter (see below. horseback riding. condos. under On Snow). $6 per child. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. % 702-588-4591. offices and shops. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. NV 89449. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. PO Box 16299. % 800-AT-TAHOE. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce.250 feet in five minutes. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. % 702588-3508. % 916-583-9048. South Lake Tahoe. For information.
When the Comstock Lode. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. eventually lost their silver fortune. Bowers Mansion. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. During the wet season. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. The original owners. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. the world’s largest silver strike. 87 and 98). Washoe Lake covers about 3. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. US 395 slides southwest. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . windsurfing. off NV 429. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. and on weekends between May and October.” On Halloween in 1864. % 702-687-4319.000 acres. Camping. Washoe Lake. About 30 miles south of Reno. (See below. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. site of Washoe Lake State Park. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. 1851. one mile south of Washoe City. camping and hiking (see below. About 15 miles south of Reno. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. % 702-849-0201. pages 83. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. In November. boating. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. was hit a year later in Virginia City. the mansion and all its furnishings. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. the boom rolled in at full throttle. a hunt that lasted 20 years. Bowers Mansion County Park. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. under Adventures. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. The park’s centerpiece.
Admission is $3. The Capitol Building & Museum. yearround. the Nevada State Library & Archives. Unlike most Western capitals. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. Headquartered in nearby Minden. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Just east of the Capitol. % 702-687-4810. % 702-884-3450. 100 Stewart Street. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. the Capitol is open daily. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. which was opened in 1886. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. % 702687-5030. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. exhibits of native fauna. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. excepting state holidays. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. It’s so open. . are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. Call for schedules and pick-up points. 101 North Carson Street. Open Monday through Friday. % 702-687-5160. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. Located in the Carson City Mint building. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. The library contains the original state constitution. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture.” In fact. 600 North Carson Street. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. in fact.
The museum is filled with period furniture. Roughing It. 502 North Division Street. The Stewart Indian Museum. Admission is $2. % 702-887-2174. The staff can provide trail maps. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. On the suburban south side of Carson City. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. Samuel. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. Admission is $2. 813 North Carson Street. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. The Orion Clemens House. Charles-Muller Hotel. train rides are extra. Admission is $4 for adults. % 702-883-1976.50. and Bender House (1874). Two blocks north. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). % 702-687-6953. was named for its original occupant. 5366 Snyder Avenue. % 702-884-2226. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. The building now houses a live theater. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. 448 West King Street. 1536 South Carson Street. That classic journal. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. % 702-826-2766. 302 South Carson Street. $2 for kids. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . The nearby Brewery Arts Center. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. 2180 South Carson Street. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. 1207 North Carson Street. the Carson City Brewing Company. % 702-882-1808. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. The St. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. The Roberts House Museum. The office is closed Sundays. Bliss Mansion. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. books and permits for the surrounding area.
The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. Across the street. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. weight room and tennis courts year-round. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. As of presstime. California.000 students had walked its halls. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. Genoa Bar. % 702-687-7410.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. NV 89701. The place saw Nevada’s first house. The museum is open daily. % 702-782-8155. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. at the foot of the Carson Range. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. 1900 South Carson Street. opened in 1863. . 2001 Foothill Road. May through October. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. Before the school closed in 1980. now long gone. The roots go back to 1851. first opened to tourists in 1862. saunas. Up the street. to Genoa. where he is buried. % 702-782-4325. lies Genoa. Walley’s. Daily admission is $12. 3. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. the first permanent white settlement in the state. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. Guests can enjoy the water. May through October. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. Carson City.
The otherwise barren hills. a 1. of all places. Beyond NV 341. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. about eight miles south of Carson City.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. Gardnerville in 1879. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. Minden was founded in 1904. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. boxing memorabilia. where it intersects with NV 341. including Western art and portraiture. Leaving Carson City. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. % 702-782-2555. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. circus items. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. which climbs up a narrow. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. In Gardnerville. About three miles south of Gardnerville. valleys. Virginia City. resting precariously . the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. Their riches. 1440 Highway 395. their sweat. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. Finally. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. % 702-266-3343. Just down US 395. Housed in the 1915 high school building. the highway hits Topaz Lake. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. and their spirit built the Silver State.200acre beauty set at 5. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. 1477 Highway 395. % 702-782-3133.
Today. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. The Comstock Lode had been struck. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. At the south end of town. leave regularly.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. . from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. Admission is $3. more than 15. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. Here. Not recommended for claustrophobes. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. % 702-847-0777. The Marshall Mint Museum. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. Admission prices range from donations to $3. The building is open daily. Up C Street.000 a ton in silver. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. % 702847-0975. % 702-847-0757. and within four years. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. underground mine tours. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain.000 lived in Virginia City. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. May through October. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. is a looming.
is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. Admission is $2.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. % 702-847-0525. 3. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. lives on in two buildings. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. Mark Twain’s Memories. % 702-8470333. is open daily. The headstones and gravesites. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. % 702-847-9394. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. windswept plateau. Open daily. June through October. has a more eclectic collection. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. including an old jukebox and player pianos. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. for a ride into yesterday. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. Finally. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. The Mark Twain Museum. After she was murdered in 1867. Its extravagant interior. % 702847-0275. Reno-Tahoe Territory . is definitely not for the puritan. Admission is $2. The memory of Samuel Clemens. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. a room in the basement of a saloon. % 702-847-0454. % 702-8470830. % 702-847-0766. The Way It Was Museum. complete with ornate chandeliers.50. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric.
number about 30. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. The Byway’s terminus. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. little more than a few walls remain. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. then exit at NV 445. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. Past the intersection with NV 431. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. Today. or mustangs. After about eight miles. There is also a developed campground. After another 20 miles. % 702-577-2345. appears in Palomino Valley. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. including Odeon Hall. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. wild horses. % 702-673-1150. % 702-847-0311. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy.
Sandhole and Popcorn beaches.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. store and museum. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops.000 BC. Another 25 miles north via paved. according to artifacts found in local caves. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. Just north of the marina. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. thus christening the 27-mile-long. boating and fishing are extra. They will provide directions and hours of operation. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. or dry lake bed. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina.182 feet) to the west. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. this is the place to do it – unless. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. the road passes Wino. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. % 702-547-0187. site of the ranger station. A reservation was formalized in 1874. % 702-476-1156. Today. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. If losing yourself is your goal. Fremont. From Nixon. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. since at least 9. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. Camping. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. nine-mile-wide watering hole. Nearby. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. of course. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. Spreading north and east. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. the world’s largest playa. campground. Tribe members administer recreation activities. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. continues to surround the lake. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. boat ramp. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness.
songbirds. and carry enough water. TAKE CARE In this region. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. A shovel. even with one. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. about one mile south of NV 140. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. caution and common sense are key to traveling. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. Besides antelope. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. on 575. tow chain.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. Help can be a long way away. birds of prey. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. preparedness is imperative. % 503-947-3315. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. spare tire. Again. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. . Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca.
August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. % 702-687-7410. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. % 702-882-1808. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. water. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. % 702-829-1955. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. In Gardnerville. % 702-882-1802. In Virginia City. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. In Carson City. the Pony Express Re-Ride. heats up. % 702-588-6211. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. % 702-882-1283. % 702-329-7469. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. The Way It Was Rodeo. % 702-883-1352. Reno also . % 702-847-0311. % 702-588-9658. % 702-329-3877. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. is held in Sparks. In Reno. Night Curves. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. with food. % 702-782-2444. a rolling custom car show. Richest Rodeo in the West. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. is a rip-snortin’ affair.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. % 702-353-2291. Carson Valley Days.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. bills itself as the “Wildest. % 800-FOR-RENO. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. % 702-847-7500. % 702-782-2211. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. % 702-265-5281.
the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-688-5767. Street Vibrations. % 702-827-7603. The Great Italian Festival. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. % 702-847-0311. the notorious Burning Man Festival. the Nevada State Fair. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. and the National Championship Air Races. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. come to Virginia City along with a parade. % 702-782-9711. . and the famous Reno Basque Festival. the Native American Snow Dance. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. attracts American Indians from many Western states.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. % 702-786-5700. In Incline Village. % 800-535-3045. % 702-329-7469. is held in Reno. % 702-972-6663. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. deconstructionist Woodstock. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. % 702-832-1606. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. % 702-826-1181. takes place in Carson City. September The famous International Camel Races. On the Black Rock Desert. % 702-885-6939. a sort of post-modern. gather in Minden. % 702-882-1565. % 702-329-1476. In the skies. and the Nevada Day Parade.
however. then climbs to a saddle. .14a). with parking on the left just south of the vista point. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. all 5. Overhangs present experts with 5. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy.11a). the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. including Jello Wars (5. Farther south.11c and heavier. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. whips around a peak. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. At the five-mile mark. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. Falcon Press Publishing. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on.11a and 5.11d) and Slayer (5. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. 1994. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. After crossing Galena Creek. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. There are more than 20 routes.12a opportunities.000 feet. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. There are 10 routes. so dress appropriately. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. are more chilling than the mountain air. including Asylum (5. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage.
including great blue herons and birds of prey. The trail ends at a highway. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. offers a beautiful willow. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. so call first. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. This hike is certainly strenuous. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. . for children $5. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. Since the slide. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. % 702-847-WALK. NV 431.300 feet in just six miles. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. as are group tours. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. elevation 8. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. Hours are seasonal. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes.260 feet. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. climbing 3. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. After another mile. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. % 702-6881893. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. The charge for adults is $12. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle.
Yellow Hills East.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. Mahogany Mountain. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. For travel information. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. To reach the trailhead. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. is a good overnight point. CA 94620. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. . about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. Oakland. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. great horned owls and other birds of prey. For more information. contact the BLM. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. % 916-279-6101. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. OR 97441. For road conditions and closures. write them at PO Box 20991. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. From here. Stevens Camp. Madras. The trail. As this is being written. For more information. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. as are 7.
The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. On the east side of the reservoir. gaining 2. 490 Kietzke Lane. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. Look for the Knott Creek sign. % 702-832-5231. backpackers and photographers. 8550 White Fir Street. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. % 702-623-1500. NV 89450. % 702-626-6916. Reno. to the soaring summit at 9. Incline Village. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. Silver State Outfitters. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. A steep. 1135 Terminal Way. . Reno. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. % 702-333-6795. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. 3335 Vista Boulevard. Outdoor Adventures. % 702-746-6878. terminus of the fairly flat.397 feet. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. % 702-322-9559. Patagonia Outlet. The lakes. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. but they might also offer their services to hikers. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. Sparks. #111. jogs through alpine meadows. NV 89502. % 702-851-1924. Nevada Guide Service. NV 89436. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. NV 89511. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir.200 lung-burning feet. Bighorn Outfitting. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Denio Junction. 20 Daylily Court. PO Box 6145. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir.
which parallels North Canyon Creek. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702884-3453. Sierra Spirit Ranch. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. Twin City Surplus. Near Washoe Lake State Park. 1675 East 4th Street. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. % 702-849-9651. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. offers ranch day trips. In all four cases. Sporting Rage. 4375 South Carson Street. % 702-8252855. Sierra Mountaineer. and offers picnic rides. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. 1201 Highway 395. also rents horses. % 702782-7011. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. 155 East Moana Lane. contact Tin Cup Adventures.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. Vogl Trek USA. % 702588-5664. % 702-885-7773. After about three miles. % 702-3584824. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. In the highlands near Mount Rose. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. call first for availability and directions. Zephyr Cove Stables. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. % 702-323-5630. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. 4339 South Carson Street. % 702-849-1020. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. 1941 North Carson Street. % 702-8827779. Strictly Scuba & More. % 702-831-5465. % 702-849-0570. the trail makes a high-altitude.
or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). 84 miles back to Gerlach. depending on point of view. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. . % 916-279-6101. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. don’t screw it up. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. To complete the loop. to Vya. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. Continuing northwest on NV 447. north of Pyramid Lake. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. or ends. % 702-831-0494. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. The half-paved. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. For detailed maps. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. Put simply. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. From here.
89502. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. & According to Jeanne L. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. 89701. Bobo’s Ski Shop. . % 702-747-1413. 89502. % 702-825-8258. 89509. Bike Brothers. 89502. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. also known as NV 206.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. 235 East Plumb Lane. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. winter and spring. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. 89701. % 702883-3210. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. along with Canada geese in fall. call % 702-688-1500. 4135 South Virginia Street. 89502. 89532. 500 North Carson Street. 1993. south of Carson City. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 3450 Lakeside Drive. Falcon Press Publishing. % 702786-5111. % 702826-0800. 1987 North Carson Street. Reno Schwinn. Excell Skates. % 702827-3277. For more information. Great Basin Bicycles. 1999 South Virginia Street. % 702-8871333. Bicycle Warehouse. % 702-3226001.
Nevada. % 702782-0867. canoes. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. 1685 Highway 395 South. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. 89450. six miles south of Gardnerville. Entrance fee is $3 per car. via NV 88 and CA 89. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. 89701.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. PO Box 3007. . canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. turkey vultures. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. % 702-588-3369. Contact the US Forest Service. Spooner Lake. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. coyotes. 625 Fairview Drive. personal water craft and kayaks. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. California.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. cutthroat and rainbows. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. The trip. offers 1. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. rents powerboats. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. During spring and early summer. On the Nevada side. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 89423. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. which can take up to seven hours. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. % 702-8825007. red-tailed hawks. kingfishers. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville.
For the stalwart anglers. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. However. planting and licensing information. although . accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. For directions. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. Idlewilde Park. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. and charges a launching fee. two to three miles up a steep trail. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. % 702-688-1500. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. both on the eastern shore.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. water levels. thanks to Sierra runoff. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. Washoe Lake State Park. % 702-6874319. A better option might be Ophir Creek. only a mile west of downtown. There are two boat ramps. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. The smaller. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. catfish and trout. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. with campground and restrooms. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. For moving-water anglers. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. are regularly stocked with rainbows. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. For more adventurous angling. but in wet years.
crappie and perch. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. % 702-688-1500. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. Rainbow. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. the setting here is primative. Nevada Angler’s Guide. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. however. There are two boat ramps on the lake. . Camping is primitive. Boats with outboards are permitted. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. Come prepared. The reservoir is located on private land. under Outfitters. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. see below. In his book. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. boasts a handful of isolated spots. a health advisory is still in effect. More than 100 years later. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. For more information. used to separate gold and silver from ore. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. while rainbow. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir.
Reno. NV 89449. 490 Kietzke Lane. % 702-322-9559. 155 East Moana Lane. intermediate and advanced. PO Box 815. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. % 916-546-4444. Reno. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. % 702-588-4916. NV 89448. Zephyr Cove. PO Box 6506. % 702-358-6113. Don’s Fishing Charters. PO Box 10225. NV 89431. % 916573-0753.260 feet. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. Zephyr Cove. The Gilly. Tahoe City. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. Snowboarders are welcome. NV 89448. NV 89502. With a base elevation of 8. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. Stateline. 89502. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. equally divided among novice. % 702-825-2855. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno.. Sparks.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Reno Fly Shop. . Mount Rose also offers lessons. rentals and a shuttle bus. CA. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. 96145. 294 East Moana Lane. PO Box 1909. Tahoe Topliners. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. NV 89502. % 916-541-5448.440 vertical feet of runs. % 702-827-0600.
Spooner Lake Cross-Country. Incline Village. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. and rental. This is a monster of a mountain. the greatest acreage (4. and/or snowshoes. lesson.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. lessons. $8 after 3 PM).840 feet.500 feet). a new gondola and the famous tram. trail pass) is $34. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. six surface lifts. Lessons. lesson. Diamond Peak. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. rentals. 1210 Ski Way. For cross-country fans. . Lessons. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. % 702-749-5349. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced.000 feet above sea level. Heavenly has 18 chairs. 89451. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. skate skis.000 to 9. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs.800) and the highest top elevation (10. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. NV. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. with the longest vertical drop (3. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. rentals. % 702-7823047. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. day tours and amateur races. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. all-terrain skis. not to mention great views of the lake. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. Heavenly. Snowboarders are welcome. % 702-831-8361. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. which include a pass.
Stateline House of Ski. 89502. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. Mogul Mouse. 89451. 1685 Highway 395 South.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. 89502. % 916-544-1221.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. % 702786-5111. % 702-831-2922. South Lake Tahoe. In Reno. 89451. % 702-831-3537. 2615 Mill Street. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 89502. 209 Kingsbury. 89502. 1200 South Wells Avenue. C&J Flight Aviation. Galena Ski Rentals. 89423. Serva Ski. 89451. % 702-329-5358. 140 Vesta Street. Sierra Mountaineer. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702831-3500. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. Excell Skates. Sundance Ski Company. 2500 East 2nd Street. % 702782-0867. Snowind Sports. % 702-358-4824. % 702-786-7071. % 702-3226001. % 702-849-0111. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. % 702-3239463. 321 Sky Way. Bobo’s Ski Shop. % 702-8269096. 89502. of- . 800 Tahoe Boulevard. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. CA 96151. 235 East Plumb Lane. 89502. 89502. 515 East Moana Lane. 89502. % 702-786-2020. PO Box 19215. % 702-588-5935.
$$$-$$$$. % 800-6483773. Lake Village Vacations. on this site since 1944. a dance club. 398 US 50. has two. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. $$$$$$$. Tahoe Summit Village. the Sierras and. % 702-588-8571. $$$-$$$$. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here.. Lake Tahoe. poolside service. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. . % 800-427-8397. % 800-635-0066. The Douglas County Airport. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. has 740 rooms. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. % 800-648-3353. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. three. also features condo accommodations. $$$-$$$$. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night).92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. % 800-99-RIDGE. $$$-$$$$. of course. Harvey’s Resort. % 702-784-4944. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. eight restaurants. High Country Soaring.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. $$$$. Harrah’s. offers 534 rooms.
high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. Today. $$-$$$. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. 2 Stateline Road. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. % 702-831-0287. % 800-624-7980. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. $$. $$$-$$$$. As in Las Vegas. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. $$-$$$$. $$-$$$. 210 North Center Street. $$$. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. a rustic feel. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. The Zephyr Cove Resort. 407 North Virginia Street. lawn games. % 800- . which serves free continental breakfast. Harrah’s. 24 Highway 28. has 33 rooms. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. combines great views. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. % 800-824-6391. $-$$.$$-$$$$. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. % 800-731-6222. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. the Cal-Neva Resort. with more than 1. 111 Country Club Drive. % 800-225-6382. % 702-8321234. % 800-687-8733. as well as a gym with instructor on site. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. % 800-322-7723. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. 593 North Dyer Circle. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. % 702-588-6644. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. Among the downtown locations. $$. first-class. The Haus Bavaria B&B.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. A perennial four-star winner. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s.700 rooms on 38 floors.
$$$$. 701 East 7th Street. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. % 702-8821887. convention facilities and some impressive suites. % 702-825-7134. most notably the Days Inn. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. $$. which features theme rooms. 3575 South Virginia Street. $. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. is a three-story. . % 800-648-1177. % 702-786-4070. 310 South Carson Street. free airport shuttle and skier rates. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. % 800-723-6500. $$-$$$. 345 North Virginia Street. which overlooks the state government center. Circus Circus. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch.000 rooms. the Motel 6. and Vagabond Inn. $$$. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. $$. $$-$$$. % 702-827-0255. % 800-648-5966. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. $. an owner-built. $$$. 710 West Robinson Street. The St. It has more than 1. a heated pool and other amenities. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. two heated pools and a hair salon. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. 1100 Nugget Avenue. 600 South Carson Street. Freeway convenient. Rates start at $195 per night. 500 North Sierra Street. $$. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. % 800-937-1436. % 800-622-1890. the new Peppermill. The Atlantis. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. $$. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. Nearby. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. boasts nearly 600 rooms. the Eldorado. 3131 South Virginia Street. including a barber shop. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. % 800-723-6500. $$. Motel 6. has a heated pool. Charles Hotel. 1901 South Virginia. % 800-282-2444. % 800-320-0627. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. $$. $$. welcomes bargain hunters. % 702-358-1080. $$. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. Away from downtown. has more than 1. 2707 South Virginia Street. % 702-882-3643.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino.
boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. % 702-782-8720. % 702-782-7644. for weary wanderers. and Pioneer. % 702-782-7075. The Crooked House. $$$. 180 Nixon Street. has five rooms. 1627 US 395. some with kitchenettes. $-$$. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. #800-628-7831. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. . $$. generic motels abound in Carson City. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. 800 North Carson. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. % 800-962-0732. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. $$. is the center of the action. was built in the late 1800s. % 702-847-0111. The motel has 40 rooms. $. $-$$. $-$$. % 702-8825535. The Chollar Mansion. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. $$$. 1979 US 395. Pratt. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. % 800-321-6983. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. and a casino. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. including the small Genoa House Inn. % 702-882-3046. 1435 US 395. 1431 Ezell Street. % 702-557-2220. the inn was built in 1872 by A. It has four rooms. 2001 Foothill Road. $$. 907 South Carson. It has four rooms. % 702-782-5697. % 702-847-0521. two with private baths.C. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. 1643 US 395. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. $$-$$$. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. 300 Main Street. % 702-782-9711. 8 South F Street. % 702-847-9777. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. 565 South D Street. $$. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. $-$$. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. $$$. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. 2332 Main Street. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. There are 13 rooms. 11 with private baths. 1540 Main Street. $$-$$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap.
the menu changes every two months. 3065 West 4th Street. Open for dinner only. % 702-786-1323. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. 1200 Razorback Road. % 702-588-6276. along with Caesars Tahoe. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. including a seafood and oyster bar. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. Steak. ethnic food and full buffets. the lake’s first casino. 328 Kingsbury Grade. 4201 West 4th Street. Famous Murphys. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. Reservations are recommended. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. % 702-323-5550. serves fresh Japanese steak. . % 702-827-4111. no TVs and. 210 North Sierra Street. The place has 14 rooms. Open for dinner only. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. of course. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. also run the gamut with delis. The French cuisine is made with fresh. is a rousing pub with good food. % 702-941-0371. The restaurant also does its own baking. Ichiban. a casino. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. The Chart House. % 702-323-3200. coffee shops. seasonal ingredients. The hotels. 3127 South Virginia Street. % 702-588-6611. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. $. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. % 702-825-1250. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. try the Glory Hole. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. % 702-588-2411.
. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. Boasting a large Italian menu. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. 1301 North Carson Street. South of the city center and south of the border. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. seafood and steak. El Charro Avitia. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. 402 East William Street. this is the place. Heidi’s. % 702-883-6261. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. There is also an extensive wine list. Two blocks away. % 702-847-0111. % 702786-5700. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. % 702-689-7226. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. % 702-8835100. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. 4389 South Carson Street. 507 North Carson Street. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. 1540 Main Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. The Carson Nugget Steak House. % 702-882-0486. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. the Eldorado. % 702-348-9297. % 702882-1626. 1112 North Carson Street. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. % 702-785-7000. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. and Peppermill. % 702-8262121. 234 North Virginia. % 702-356-3300.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. % 702-882-3353. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. % 702-882-4556. 1020 North Carson Street. 255 North Sierra Street. one of the top Italian eateries in country. 2707 South Virginia Street. Silvana’s. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. dinner only on weekends. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. Adele’s. serves fine French cuisine. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday.
900 feet. Nightly fees are $6. Simply wonderful. The overnight rate is $12. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. for more information. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. Big Spring Reservoir. including Virgin Valley. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. Rates run about $18 per night. Set at 8. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. % 702-687-4319.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. For information and fees. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. Call the Cedarville. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. which straddles the Nevada-California border. % 916-279-6101. the campground has 54 sites and running water. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. % 702-789-2000. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. some for RVs and some for tents. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. The nightly fee is $5. California. 2500 East 2nd Street. The overnight fee is $7. Open June through September. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. 1300 West 2nd Street. office of the BLM. % 702-323-3381. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. the campground has 24 sites. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. 735 Mill Street. nine for RVs. Open May through October. % 916-573-2600. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. call % 702266-3343. . Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. Showers are available. lies south of the river. On the Nevada side. % 702-8822766. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. Reno RV Park. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. There are 44 campsites here. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. % 702-322-2281. Mount Rose has running water.
Want ads called for “Young.. pausing only long enough to change mounts. carrying only a pistol. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Joseph. Orphans preferred. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. 1861. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. wiry fellows not over eighteen. Missouri. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. On October 24. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . and Sacramento. tore between stations. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. California. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west.” Riders. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. Bible and mail pouch. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. skinny.. Incredibly. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. willing to risk death daily. the gutsy riders. Beginning in April 1860. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart.Pony Express Territory vada. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini.
one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. glacier-carved peaks. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. But if you consider solitude. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. so be prepared for anything. hiking and wildlife viewing.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. As might be expected. Just a few hours from Ely. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. In the higher mountains. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. this area has plenty to offer. ridges and valleys in the country. . ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. there is excellent skiing. Great Basin.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. Ranging in elevation from 3.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. spans some of the most beautiful.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. Near the town of Ely. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. Sunday. % 702-867-3500. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. peregrine falcons. Admission is free. (See On Water. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. With 10. below. the refuge shelters upwards of 350.000 people. % 702-423-3677.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon.000 years. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. snowy plovers. green-winged teals. Over 14. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. canvasbacks. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. pelicans. January through March. 1000 Auction Road. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. 1050 South Maine Street. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. April through December. White-faced ibis. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday.000 photographic images. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. % 702-423-5128. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. In peak years. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. . encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. covers 77. In recent years. The Churchill County Museum & Archives.
Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. which is open only twice a month for guided tours.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. is the artist in residence here. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets.000 years ago. At press time. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. which features the famous Blue Angels. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. More than 21. Just off the highway are two short trails. The hunting season usually opens in October. On the south end of town. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Adam Fortunate Eagle. Over 8. Every spring. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. Pony Express Territory . Just east of town. and “management” means hunting.
A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. about three miles past West Gate. 379 West William Avenue. fauna. 100 Campus Way. NV 89406. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. dark. Fallon. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. regularly emanate from the dune. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. volcanic cliffs around it. % 702-423-4556. the low. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. geology and history of the region.” Booms.” meaning sword. NV 89406. A hike to the precipice is a safe. listen for the mountain’s “singing. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. wild West. Fallon. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. but strenuous. If the roar of engines ever dies down. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. Near the station. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. roars and moans. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. % 702-423-2544. . A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority.
which includes the 1863 newspaper office.350 feet. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. % 702-964-2145. NV 89310. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. Austin. PO Box 1149.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley.577 feet. the boom was followed by the bust. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. 13 miles east of Austin. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. population about 300. Three miles later. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. Austin is a quiet. % 702-964-2200. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. then to paved NV 376. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. However the rush began. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. Six miles later. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. then climbs again to Austin. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. Round Mountain. NV 89045. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. past Bob Scott campground. As always. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). PO Box 212.
At mile 55. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. . There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. At mile 30. near Pete’s Summit. The hill is located on private land. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. % 702-964-2200. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. NV 89820. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. A series of safe.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. % 702635-4000. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. NV 89310.000 years ago. There is also a free campground here. PO Box 1420.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. is recommended for serious. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. Battle Mountain. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon.500 years ago. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. experienced cavers only. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. are open to visitors just off the road. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. After merging with Lower Mine Road. The limestone cavern. Austin. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. A long. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. PO Box 212. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway.
The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. But by 1890 the rush was over. Still.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. Eureka’s population of 9. % 702-237-5484. PO Box 14. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. Eureka. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. The state’s No.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. some a little less gloriously than others. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. By 1878. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. and the Jackson House Hotel. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. found in the valleys around Eurkea. completed in 1880 and still in use today. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. but most definitely worth a gander. Gold mines. NV 89316. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. dates from 1877. The shell of the building. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. Not until five years later. are still a major facet of the local economy. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. Eureka. however. The building. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar.
first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. Situated at 9. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. n Ghost Towns From Eureka.500 residents. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. running south into the Humboldt National Forest.000 feet. Pronounced EE-lee. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. this mini-city (population about 5. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. Eureka. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. A few miles farther south. PO Box 14.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. % 702-237-5484. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. US 50 rolls across basin and range. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. n Ely Back on US 50. NV 89316. Monday through Friday and by appointment. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Entering town at night .
Pony Express Territory . % 702-289-2085. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. Call for exact dates and times. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. engine house. depart on selected dates from May through September. Since they went cold in the 1880s. Tours of the railroad yard. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. a bicycle. clothing.50 per person. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. % 702-2894710. NV 89301. PO Box 150040. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. like many museums in this territory. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. Prices start at $10 per person. furniture. showers and hiking trails. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. running water. Return to US 50. as well as an original. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum.300 feet. The museum. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. There is primitive camping here. located on East 11th Street. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. The White Pine Public Museum. former First Lady Pat Nixon. East Ely. Admission is free. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. 2000 Aultman Street. depot. % 702-728-4467. On the other side of town. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. accessories.
the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. While hikers are welcome. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. % 800496-9350. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. In the 1950s a . From Baker.000 people a year visit the park.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. Bristlecone Convention Center. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. sometimes by the hundreds. a proposal to create a 6. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. 1986. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. untamed backcountry. Designated a national park in October. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. Only about 70. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. That leads quickly to Baker. For more information. % 702-289-8877. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. Most of the 77. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. 636 Aultman Street. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. In 1922. contact the Ely office of the BLM. % 702-289-4865. % 702-234-7331. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. 150 6th Street.
there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. too. then head straight out of the park.000. limited to 30 people at a time. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park.067-foot Wheeler Peak. (See On Foot and Camping. ski resorts and tramways. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. which is actually one huge cavern. columns. are hard to beat. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. Christmas and New Year’s Day. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. Congress settled on 77. are held every day except Thanksgiving. stalagmites. or speleotherms: stalactites. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. Baker. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. the park’s crown jewel. flowstone and soda straws.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. Prices are $4 for adults. draperies. The high-altitude campgrounds. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. % 702-234-7331. $3 for juniors. While celebrating a victory.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months.000 to 44. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. . Finally. NV 89311-9702. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. Call ahead for conditions. Tours of the cavern.086-acre Great Basin National Park. in 1986. among others. below.
The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. Set at 7. Bakeoven Creek. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. The garnets found here. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. Millet Ranch. Arc Dome. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. . To reach Garnet Hill. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. to reach the village of Kingston.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. Tierney Creek.600 feet.000 feet. or use paved NV 376. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. Drive three miles to the recreation area. % 702-9642671. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. are spessartite. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. South Toiyabe Peak. a few of which are even of gem quality. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. which has picnic tables and shade trees. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. Carvers NW. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley.
Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. nausea. which heads west toward the peak. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. which may be impassable when wet. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. headache.000 feet along rocky.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. a unique. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. leave the high country immediately. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. windswept paths. Baker. which at 12. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. 1. and Mount Moriah. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. After about 10 miles of hiking. set aside in 1989. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. The wilderness. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. as well as all the water you will need. If threatening clouds approach.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. The trail ends just before the summit. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. is marked with trailhead signs. From the trailhead/parking area. % 702-289-3031 for more information. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. Pony Express Territory . This is some serious highcountry hiking. with many trails climbing above 10. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park.000-acre. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5.
Finally. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. In 1878. At 13. If it is safe to venture to the peak. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. This is another depression etched by a glacier. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. Use extreme caution here. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. the six-mile .000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. Continue straight. To reach the summit.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. then descends to Teresa Lake. or cirque. The bowl. then turn left again.063 feet. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. the last 1.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. the views of the 8.
just off to the east. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. once the site of some mining activity. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. this is a nice overnight stop. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh.926-foot Pyramid Peak. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. After about three miles. Turn left. Lehman Caves. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. Around mile six. Return the way you came. Wheeler Peak. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. To continue the loop hike. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. In good weather. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. To return to the trailhead. subalpine conditions.700 feet in the first seven miles. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. Kious Spring. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. .950 years.
89406. 89406. 5030 Reno Highway. 89406. 89301. PO Box 34005. 3125 Stark Lane. % 702-2893063. % 702-423-6171. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. PO Box 2560. 89883. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. HCR 33. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. Flying M Stables. 89301. 89301. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 89301. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. % 702-289-8886. Daum. 203 Heritage Drive. % 702-423-5185. Wendover George A. % 800-874-0903. % 702-238-5232. % 702-664-2977. Burdick Guide Service. 89406. % 702-867-3388. 1707 Rice Road. % 702423-9215. a quartermile. White River Guide Service. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. % 702235-7439. sells camping and outdoor equipment. 189 Aultman Street. J & P Auto Parts. Sportsworld. 89301. % 702-4239215. % 702-289-4468. 89406. is worth a gander. 2005 Harrigan Road. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. Silver State Stables. 1050 Aultman Street. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. % 702-289-4208. Box 33570. Great Basin Inn.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. HC 34. 701 Avenue F. Wildlife West Guide Service. . As of presstime. 89301.
Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. Austin. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. one would think tiny Austin. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State.000 per year. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. the sixstory. NV 89310. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. Austin.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. For more information. NV 89310. PO Box 504. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. Dune-buggy. % 702-964-2671. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. % 702-885-6000. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. contact the BLM. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. brochures and campgrounds. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. For more information. The route runs north out of the canyon.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. A 10-mile loop with a 1. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. PO Box 130. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. population 300.
there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. % 702-289-8886. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. when the weather is dry. directions and road conditions. and bring plenty of water. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. From the pavement. % 702-234-7331. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. 1500 Aultman Street. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. . The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. sells and services bicycles. for maps. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. past the US Forest Service station. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker.
Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. surrounds a 10. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. White crappie can be hooked March through May. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. In 1997. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. The trout limit is 10. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. Pony Express Territory . There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. Lahontan State Recreation Area. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. Boat ramps are located in two spots.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. % 702-688-1500. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. where worms and corn are said to work best. along with sportfishing.
If dirt roads aren’t too inviting.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. $-$$. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. A few chain HO TE L . On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. % 702-289-4865. 1050 Aultman Street. and one of the best bargains. is one of the biggest places in town. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. 701 Avenue F. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. 855 West Williams Avenue. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. % 702-289-4468.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. 1500 Aultman Street. Great Basin Inn. % 702-289-3063. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. via paved NV 376 and a three. J & P Auto Parts. The Upper Reese River. % 702-423-6031. % 702-289-8886. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. which feeds the lake. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales.
% 702-237-5334. $-$$. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. The ranch.800 acres. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. $-$$. 180 West Williams Avenue. $. $-$$. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. % 702-964-2698. 70 East Williams Avenue. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). As you drive in from the west. but after a long day on the road. On the east end of town. 25 North Taylor Street. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. % 702-423-5554. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. while on the southern edge of town. including the Comfort Inn. $-$$. Smith Creek Ranch. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. rates and directions. called Main Street as it runs through town. Call for information. 115 Northwest Main Street. also called Main Street here. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. $. which has 17 rooms. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. try Jackson House B&B. has 17 rooms. the Pony Express House. with 10 rooms. has 27 rooms. who really cares. meals and overnight accommodations. which has 30 rooms. $-$$. % 702-423-4254. % 702-964-2306. The Sundown Lodge. The Eureka Motel. $$$. It is open seasonally. $$. the Budget Inn. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. $$. % 702-423-2194. which is north-south running US 95. and. basic equipment. the Lincoln Motel. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. The red brick structure was built in 1877. % 702-423-5151. most of which are on US 50. instruction. is a modern. has 21 rooms. $. a heated pool and a small casino. 1830 West Williams Avenue. $$$. the 22-room Value Inn. % 702-964-2471. % 702-423-4648. 1705 South Taylor Street. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. combines a B&B with a private. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. a heated pool and interior corridors. which has 49 rooms. % 702-9642605. % 702-237-5247. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . % 702-423-2277. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. For a real blast from the past. % 702-237-5577.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. The Nevada Belle Motel. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. $-$$.
% 702-289-8900. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. 701 Avenue I. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. Ely With a population of more than 5. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. 930 Aultman Street. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. % 702289-6671. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. % 702-289-4497. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. 501 Aultman Street. $$-$$$. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. For a more genteel stay. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. located on the south side of town off US 93. $-$$. has 21 rooms. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. $-$$. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. $. $-$$. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. $. % 702-289-6665. 1501 Avenue F. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. % 702-237-9988. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. % 702-289-8838. The Bristlecone Motel. 1101 Aultman Street. 700 Avenue I. For a more modern taste. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. After years of dormancy. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. which has 19 rooms. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. the inn has five rooms with private baths. the building was vacant 10 years later. 220 East 11th Street. and its twin. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. which has 61 rooms. There are also private balconies. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. $$. 5th . % 702-2891234. is another living antique.300. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). $-$$. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. $-$$$. % 702-289-8687. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. 770 Avenue O. two-story hotel. % 702-289-4747. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. % 702-289-4884. The inn is open June through September. 500 High Street. $-$$. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6.
% 702234-7300. % 702-237-7302. % 702-234-7323. % 702-289-3800. $-$$. and Whispering Elms RV Park. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. which has a laundromat and showers. even fast food joints are nonexistent. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. what with its 29 rooms. . is a favorite spot for travelers. so call ahead for operating hours. $-$$. the Border Inn. % 702234-7323. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. The Silverjack Motel. 150 4th Street. % 702-234-7267. 24hour laundromat and showers. Behind the Silverjack. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. offers tipis and a campground. % 702-289-3033.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. $. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. Baker. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. $. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. % 702-234-7272. NV 89311.. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. % 702-289-4411. It is open June through August. and the White Pine Motel. South of Baker at the national park boundary. $. $. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. guided tours and off-road adventures. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. PO Box 90. along with horseback riding. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. with its seven rooms. Utah. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. 1301 Aultman Street..er. % 702-234-7343. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. and two others outside of Baker. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners.
The Mexican food at La Cocina. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. 875 West Williams Avenue. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. 125 South Maine Street. If your mind is on pizza. Open for breakfast. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. % 702-964-2220. 960 Auction Road. % 702-423-6166.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. have been serving great burgers. is home to The Diner. The International Café and Bar. Smack in the center of town. however. Tony’s. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Kentucky Fried Chicken. is also open for three squares a day. 4150 Reno Highway. 70 South Maine Street. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. Café Nations. Stockman’s Casino. The Fallon Nugget Casino. % 702-867-2769. Carol’s Country Kitchen. % 702423-6828. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. % 702-867-3750. serves up steaks. Denny’s. % 702-423-3233. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. is Fallon’s only coffee house. including McDonald’s. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. % 702-423-2117. Toiyabe Café. lunch and dinner. % 702-423-3111. The Depot Casino. % 702-964-9905. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). % 702-964-2493. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. specializing in omelets and steaks. is known throughout Fallon. % 702-423-5588. In 1929 and ’30. In the 1920s and ‘30s. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. including the few eateries. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. 1350 West Williams Avenue. try Mary’s Owl . the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. 1560 West Williams Avenue. 1955 McClean Road. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City.
% 702-237-5356. 2160 Aultman Street. however. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. The Owl Club. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. and is attached to a bar. 501 Aultman Street. top sirloin steak and eggs. is also open 24 hours a day. serves a fine steak sandwich. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. Lahontan State Recreation Area. % 702-237-5477. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. might as well top it off in Eureka. 5787 Reno Highway. % 702-237-5280. % 702-289-6665. % 702-289-3905. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. % 702-867-3636. The Fireside Inn. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. located three miles north of town on US 93.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . Fallon RV Park. % 702-688-1500. 4800 Reno Highway. % 702-964-2627. West of Fallon. % 702-2289-3765. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. 562 Aultman Street. and Hubtotel RV Park. has 64 sites. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. % 702-289-3033. % 702-289-4888. The Busy Bee Drive-In. where the restaurants are also along US 50. % 702-289-3313. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. Believe it or not. % 702-867-2332. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. 211 5th Street. 701 Avenue I. 21. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. which features prime rib. and Orient Express. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. % 702-964-2412. offers 45 sites. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. serving diner-style grub. % 702-289-4884. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. 1455 Aultman Street. Jerry Restaurant No.
both off of US 50. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. Just east of the Eureka town limits. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. picnic tables and vault toilets. then go a mile to County Road 1059. None have running water.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. grills. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). For information. After a few miles. % 702-635-4000. Only six miles southwest of Ely. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. North of Ely. Open April to October. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. About nine miles south of Big Creek. NV 89310. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. set at 7.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. Just east of town. % 702-964-1011.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. To reach Bird Creek campground. PO Box 130.300 feet. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. There are 15 sites. which are open June through September with running water. % 702-964-2671. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies.800 feet. where there are eight campsites set at 7. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486.500 feet. No running water or firewood. Austin. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. NV 89820. along with campfire rings. PO Box 1420. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. There is drinking water here. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. Bob Scott Campground. There are 10 sites here . South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. For more information and road conditions. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. Finally. Battle Mountain. 24 miles east of Austin. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. Austin RV Park. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. as there are no services near the water. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek.
Upper Lehman. NV. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. In the center of the park. In Great Basin National Park. For more information. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. Ely. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. Set at 7. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. and Valley View RV Park. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. 350 8th Street. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. depending on weather conditions. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water.886 feet. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7.530 feet. this is the only park campground open all year. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. % 702-2893303. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. has 100 sites. 89301. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. Contact the visitors center. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. On the northern edge of the park. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. The BLM. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. % 702-289-4865.250 feet). The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway.752 feet.300 feet. % 702-2893413. on US 93. % 702-2893031. There are 30 sites here at 7. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. % 702-234-7331. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. and there are no showers. Pony Express Territory . To reach the campground from US 50.
has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. not many of them stayed around very long. Today in Cowboy Country. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. sagebrushcovered sea. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. Throughout history. started pulling core samples. reaching as high as 11. humans.000 feet and more.000-year-old duck decoys. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. He found one living specimen dating back 4. the oldest living thing on earth. Named Methuselah. when University of Arizona researcher Dr.700 years. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. who described them as “lowly old giants. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. the state animal. call many parts of this high country home. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. . Edmund Schulman. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. however. The short. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. Desert bighorn sheep. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds.
Elko headed the list of the 100 . Summers are generally hot and dry. Carry good maps and a compass. In 1993. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. The weather here can be as wild as the land. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. bikers and equestrians. streams. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past.000 years. Winter brings rain and snow.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. and know how to use them. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. In fact. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. towns like Winnemucca. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. bass and other gamefish. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. lakes and reservoirs. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10.
Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. but thanks to new mining technology. but everyday tools. followed by the doomed Donner Party. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. This is a place where pick-up trucks. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. both held in Elko. lunch and dinner. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. took to sheepherding. including one named Samuel Clemens. others moved on. Cowboy Country . The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. combed Cowboy Country. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. But since the early days. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. after the riches ran out. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. In late 1860s. The famous trail. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. parts of which are still visible today. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. paralleled the Humboldt River. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers.
about 17 miles from Lovelock. which crosses the Humboldt River.000-square-mile Pershing County. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. After eight miles. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. arrived here in 1866.300. which measures . Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. George Lovelock. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. which the company named after him. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. turn left on Derby Road. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. Five miles southwest of the shelter. The seat of 6. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. located on the southern outskirts of town. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. With a population of just over 2. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush.
The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. One of only two round courthouses in the country. in 1886 or 1887. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. the first ever in the Great Basin. % 702-273-2713. which also features the community pool.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. picnicperfect park. NV 89419. clothing and household items. Lovelock. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. Scientific excavations. many of which were donated by locals. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. are large. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. Mummified remains were found here. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. Tufas. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. Admission is free. dark. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. PO Box 821. He may have been led there by Natchez. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan.
What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. PO Box 821. % 702-273-2713. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). After later taking the name Mark Twain. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. as well as opportunities for boating. below) and wellmanicured homes. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. NV 89419. where stone . Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. Lovelock. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. is centered on this man-made lake. About 16 families reside in Unionville. fishing and camping. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. see below under Adventures. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce.134 n Cowboy Country vada. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. % 702-538-7321. which seems close enough to touch. For details. Open all year. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80.
a former resident. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. a good spot for a picnic.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. Curator . Today their descendants. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. They later brought their families. From here it’s five miles to the town. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. dancing. except for lunch. the Humboldt Museum complex.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. Admission is free. Winnemucca (population 7. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. Edna Purviance. % 702-623-2912. To reach Unionville from I-80. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. % 702/623-2225. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover.
Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. Winnemucca. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. Winnemucca. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. nabbing $32. Like something out of old Mexico. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. The tour visits 30 sites. . Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. but all are easily drivable. along with a thank you note. US Forest Service. Winnemucca. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca.000. The thieves escaped to Texas. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900.000 in gold. 602 Bridge Street. The former First National Bank. % 800-962-2638. one of two in the country. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. % 702-623-5025. NV 89445. was erected in 1863. 95 Bridge Street. % 702623-5025. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. % 702-623-1500. Another gem is the Shone House. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. St. NV 89445. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. Winnemucca. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. NV 89445. There is a gift shop next door.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. NV 89445. 352 Bridge Street. 705 East Fourth Street.
The Rochester Mining District. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. along with the local watering hole. which serves as a meeting place and information center. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. A 20th-century ghost town. Jungo. after fending off resident Paiutes. once a busy town of more than 2. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. and 2. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. The camp was abandoned by 1869. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. established Scottsdale in 1866. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. which . the town was an empty shell. To reach the remains of the camp. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. all but 250 people left. Today about 100 people live in town. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. Midas is two miles from this junction. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912.300 people had moved by 1913. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. Three years later the village became Paradise City. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas.
1515 Idaho Street. obtain maps.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. It’s the white. Gas is also available. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. (See Adventures. this town of about 25. however. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. Paradise Saloon. Elko traces its roots back to 1868.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. is easy to locate. biking. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. (See Adventures and Camping. offers a bar.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. Basque . the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. % 702-578-3381. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. beautiful high-country lake. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. Just south of town. fishing and camping. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. A state park. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. The local mining.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. this is Cowboy Country. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-5025. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. After all. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. deli and soda fountain. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles.) In town. located on the extreme east end of town. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. sometimes an angler’s paradise. In Winnemucca. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. verdant marshes. % 702-7383418.
Hertz Rent-A-Car. El Aero Services. For airport information. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. also known as J. Admission is free. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. % 702-738-7508. geology and industry abound.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. 501 Railroad Street. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range).000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. The Western Folklife Center. along with various other events throughout the year. Harris Field. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. and a charter airline. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday.Touring n 139 immigrants. % 800-331-1212. Displays of local wildlife. 9 AM to 5 PM. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. % 800-8727245.C. % 800-453-9417. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. % 702-738-7123. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-654-3131. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. geography. and Sunday. % 702-738-5131. 10 AM to 5 PM. . 1 PM to 5 PM. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. Deweys Rent-A-Car. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca.
% 702-738-5171. % 702-738-7135. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. (See Adventures and Camping. 700 Moren Way. Alpine vistas. passing Powerhouse picnic area. 89801. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. 90. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. 89801. 976 Mountain City Highway. located southeast of Elko. fishing and camping in the entire West.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. with elevations ranging up to 11. 89801. From town. Elko Chamber of Commerce. At the .387 feet at Ruby Dome. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. Humboldt National Forest. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. 1601 Idaho Street. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. 89803. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. Elko. From Elko. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. % 800-248-ELKO. % 702-753-0200. making for some of the most beautiful hiking.800 feet). Elko. Elko. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. 3900 East Idaho Street. Elko. including the remote. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. is one of the most photographed churches in the West.
then north another 25 miles. a high clearance vehicle is required. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom.Touring n 141 crest. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. Ruby Dome.500 people flooded into the region. For details on all of this. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. Nevada. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. this town sticks to Mountain Time. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. U-shaped valley. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. Idaho. down into Jarbidge Canyon. turns south. From the south. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. The road leads east 21 miles. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line.387 feet. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. and there’s no argument here. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. Even when they are open. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. see below. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. More than 1. is visible in the west. and by the 1930s the rush was over. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. check with the owners of the Trading Post. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. or call them at % 702-488-2315. From Wells. the road meets the Jarbidge River. rising 11. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. (See On Foot. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. . so drive cautiously.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. is spectacular. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. For access to both. Yes.
Before entering town. which rises to 11. of course. and the 37. the 44. n Wells From Elko.) On the Utah side of the state line. both available at the Trading Post. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. The range is also home to Angel Lake. the main difference between the two sides being. 4 and go five miles northeast. exit at No. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. however. the main artery running up the east side of the state. Sunday until 9 PM. This is also the junction of US 93. Cool. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. % 801-665-7721. To access the flats. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. try Stuart’s Foodtown. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. head east from the border. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. n Wendover From Wells. The town was abandoned in 1942. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. For ghost town fans. stare out across the famous. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. % 702-752-3215. Bonneville Speedway Museum. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. 647 Humboldt Avenue.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. reached easily via a paved highway. the presence of casinos.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness.
Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. % 702-664-3414. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. June Both hay. is held in late March or early April. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover.000 buckaroos. which gains 1. Eagles. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. falcons and ospreys are common. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. the historic World War II B-29s. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. The night before the events. which attracts upwards of 10.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. hawks.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard.600 feet in two miles. a .
arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. There is a traditional dance contest. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. July In July. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. call % 702-635-8245. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. featuring food. Unless otherwise indicated. Phone numbers can be found above. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. The largest Basque get-together in the US. when tanks. hear the music and eat the food. Near Wendover. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend.or 23-mile loop. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. under Touring. a parade and feats of strength. The town of McDermitt. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. six. For details. . In Wendover. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations.. dancing.
834 feet). Star Peak (elevation 9. 1994. which . mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. Star Peak. The trail is punishing. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. The first half of the moderately strenous. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. From the top. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. Chartered in 1989. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. To reach the trailhead. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. To reach the trail. crossing Buffalo Creek. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. willow and cottonwood country. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. climbing more than 4. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. passable by high-clearance vehicles. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. From here. Aspen. the road. Granite Peak (elevation 9. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley.732) is the highest point.000 feet in four miles. Falcon Press Publishing. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. Pronghorn antelope. including the 31.200 feet. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. leads due east toward the highest point. The trailhead appears after three miles. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. This makes for a great loop drive. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95.
146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above).800 feet above sea . including Singas Creek. Hikers can visit rock peaks.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. Mountain lions.6 miles to a parking area. more than 10. Come prepared for anything. USGS 7. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads.415).5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. big horn sheep. Horses are welcome on these trails. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. descends toward a watercourse. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. about one mile south of town. Return the way you came. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. where you turn south. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. % 702-623-5025. depending on weather conditions. narrow canyons.” Elevations range from 6. glacial lakes. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. cirque basins.
then descends again to cross Trout Creek. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. set at 9. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. so check road conditions before heading out. of course. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). Feel free. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary.Adventures n 147 level. know this region as well as anyone. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. Pause to rest but not to fish. % 702-738-7135. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. Franklin Lake NW. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. as there are no trout here.400 feet. At 10. The five-mile. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. this is the high point of the trek. and his dog Molly. The pass is often closed in winter. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles.400 feet and heads north. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. % 702-752-3357. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce.300-foot . From Roads End. Hyslop.500 feet. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. After about a mile and a half. The 1. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead.
The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip.700 feet. Idaho.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. the closest town. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic.000-foot mark. Most of the paths are found in the 113. Just past the spring. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. Return the way you came. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. subalpine forests. The trail drops again.000 feet to 10. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. Unfortunately. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. Finally. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. Wild- . An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. From the trailhead. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. On a good day. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
For more information. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. and everything is open year-round. rainbows. The site has a paved boat ramp. To reach the lake from Elko. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. % 702-623-5025. brown and rainbow trout. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. is also a good fishing spot.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. campsites and restrooms. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. Channel cats. call % 702-758-6493. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- .Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. mountain whitefish. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. and black bass have become a favorite catch. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. supports brook.
For an easier drive from Wells. . at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. Turn left and head south 32 miles. so check road conditions before heading out. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. white-faced ibis. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. short-eared owl and American kestrel. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. including bald and golden eagle. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. To reach the refuge from Elko. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. midway between the northern and southern portions. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. great sandhill crane. Within six miles of the trailhead. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. At the foot of the range. Angel Lake Near Wells. contact the US Forest Service. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. elevation 8. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. trumpeter swam. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells.154 n Cowboy Country ers. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. For more information. % 702-738-5171. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113.800 feet. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road.000 acres.
400-acre lake. the spring-fed. 89801. % 702-664-3414. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. HC30 Box 17 #13. Elko Guide Service. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. have become a local haven for divers. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. Rainbow. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. % 702779-2268. PO Box 685. 89833. 285 12th Street. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. 89833. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. Grandview Marine. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. Secret Pass Outfitters. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . 1250 Lamoille Highway. 423 South Bridge Street. % 702-777-DIVE. Raley’s. 2511 Mountain City Highway. To reach the 2. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. HC 60. HC 60. % 702-7382775. In warmer months. crystalline Blue Lakes. catfish. % 702-7442277. the bowcut trout. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. are the best bets here. 89801. 89801. % 702-625-2453. % 702-7388473. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. % 702779-2226.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. PO Box 515. 89801. For more information.
The Lovelock Inn. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. pool and jacuzzi. lodging and all the extras. % 702-753-6867. restaurant.200 vertical feet.500 to 6.200 feet. lounge. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. 55 Cornell Avenue. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food.500 feet. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. Trips are limited to 16 people. then head west for five miles to town. covering 5. $$. % 702-273-2937. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. Although there isn’t a television to be found. is convenient to I-80. % 702-738-7135. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. not to mention 74 rooms. with a 24-hour casino. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. The outfit boasts 5. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. Lunch and dinner are extra. offers 130 acres of terrain. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. % 800-528-1234. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast.000 acres of skiable mountain. 2805 Unionville Road. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. To reach the ranch from I80. Elko SnoBowl. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. % 702-538-7585. $$$. ranging from 5. is the most happening place in town. . so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. 1420 Cornell Avenue. $-$$. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. depending on snowfall. one tame and the other decidedly not so.
casino. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$$$$. the 170-room Holiday Inn. % 800-262-8901. $$. basic motels on the main drag. and the Model T Motel. % 702-623-5248. 2050 Idaho Street. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Holiday Motel. eateries. % 702-738-8421. $$-$$$. $$. % 702-623-3646. the Red Lion Inn. is for you. in- . The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. restaurant and bar. There are plenty of cheap. 3015 Idaho Street. % 702-738-8425. a lounge with live entertainment. $$. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. but also its own charter airline. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. % 800-545-0044. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. 2065 Idaho Street. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 837 Idaho Street. % 702-625-1818. % 702-623-1180. $$. % 702-7387261. $$-$$$$. the Red Lion Inn. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. the Super 8. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. % 800-645-5658. the Ameritel Inn Elko. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. The Gold Country Inn. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. the 80-room Val-U Inn. starting with the two biggies. the Gold Country Motor Inn. $-$$. with 150 rooms.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. % 800-346-5306. $$$. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. and the Days Inn. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms.000. offers 40 rooms. 400 1st Street. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. and the generic. $-$$. Casino Express. restaurant and full bar. The Red Lion not only has a casino. There are also two Best Westerns. % 702-738-8787. % 702-623-3661. 1930 Idaho Street. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. a pool and 223 rooms. % 702-623-1116. including the queen of Elko establishments. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. and the Motel 6. % 800-633-6435. $$-$$$. offering 70 rooms. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. $$-$$$.
detached cabin with jacuzzi. biking and horseback riding. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. Jiggs Guest Ranch. 89828. restaurants. % 702-753-6363. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. 345 Idaho Street. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. % 702-753-6281. has 70 rooms. % 702-738-5141. Stonehouse Country Inn. $$$$. hiking and fly fishing. There are 141 rooms. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. 340 Commercial Street. % 702-738-5522. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. PO Box 281208. % 702-578-3530. $$-$$$. % 702-738-7115. 2401 Mountain City Highway. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. $-$$. The Shilo Inn. including skeet shooting. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. PO Box 281381. Lamoille. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. bar and pool. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. % 702-753-6356. along with a pool. a swimming pool. is an exclusive. $$-$$$. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. There is even space for campers and RVers. $$$-$$$$. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. Stockmen’s Hotel. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. % 702-738-8488. Red’s Ranch. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. . has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. Away from Idaho Street. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. and the Thunderbird Motel. 1755 Idaho Street. $$. $-$$. $-$$. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. Just outside of Lamoille. some with kitchenettes. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. jacuzzi and fitness center. $$. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. $$$-$$$$.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. $$$-$$$$.
% 702-752-2151. Jarbidge. % 702-752-2116. PO Box 260090. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. $. $$-$$$. The Super 8. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. offers another 24 rooms. % 702-752-3384. 89826. HC 62. $-$$. % 702-488-2315. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. $. % 800-848-7300. % 702-488-2311. % 702-752-3353. $-$$$$. 1250 East 6th Street. 576 6th Street. $. and the Best Western Sage Motel. % 702-7523065. % 702-752-2277. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. even by the neighbors in Utah. if you’re into chains. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. Cottonwood Ranch. $$-$$$. most of them planted along 6th Street. If not. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. On Main Street. has 56 rooms. $-$$. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. the Outdoor Inn. On the north side of town. $-$$. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. the Rest Inn Suites. 326 6th Street. There are more than 1. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. 100 Wendover Boulevard. $-$$. For more information. Down the street. $. which also has a restaurant and bar. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. and the Old West Inn. PO Box 1300. Together . HC 62. 930 6th Street. % 702-4082338. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. the Chinatown Motel. % 702-752-2101. There are 57 rooms. $$$-$$$$. PO Box 300. 456 6th Street. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. % 702-752-3888. % 702-752-3604.
a health club.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. Mexican food and pizza. which has live entertainment. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. live showroom entertainment. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. pool. 260 Maine Street. $-$$. % 702-664-2888. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. the Super 8. jacuzzi. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. and until 2 PM on Sunday. leg of lamb. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. 750 Cornell Avenue. lunch and dinner. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. . do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. 410 Cornell Avenue. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. $$-$$$. including restaurants and lounges. The Peppermill Hotel. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. with 90 rooms. % 702-273-7773. tennis courts. % 702-273-2971. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-273-3232. % 702-623-3197. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. is open until 10 PM every day. In the center of town. % 800-648-9660. pool and jacuzzi. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. lounges. is another gamer’s haven. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. % 702-273-2442. Nearby. and Pizza Factory. which basks in the Basque tradition. 1420 Cornell Avenue. Wee B’s Pizza & More. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. serving steak. 680 Wendover Boulevard. shrimp and Basque side dishes. along with daily specials. live entertainment. 9 PM on Sunday. % 800-537-0207. 485 Cornell Avenue.000-square-foot casino. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. a 14. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. La Casita. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. offers breakfast. % 702-273-7444. restaurants. $$. dancing and an 18-hole golf course.
and dinner only Friday and Saturday. Another Basque establishment. % 800-545-0044. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. Toki Ona.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. all of their meat is cut to order. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. The Steak House. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. Specializing in steak. % 702-738-5141. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. 180 Melarkey Street. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. 340 Commercial Street. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. % 702-738-3214. 1061 West Fourth Street. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. Stockmen’s Hotel. China Garden. Elko The Red Lion Inn. % 702-623-3455. 1550 Idaho Street. The atmosphere is definitely casual. % 702-623-2977. % 702-738-9691. seafood and chicken. % 702-623-4104. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. . has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. 405 Silver Street. 2065 Idaho Street. % 702-623-6777. % 702-623-2908. but get there before 1 PM. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. while The Griddle. This being ranch country. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. home of the world’s largest potato field. % 702-625-2555. since 1863. 95 South Bridge Street. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. % 702-623-4440. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. Restaurante San Fermin.
D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. % 702-752-3210. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. % 702-738-7088. Pine Lodge. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. If you crave Mexican food. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. % 702-753-6363. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. depending on weather conditions. 217 Idaho Street. to peruse the ornate bar. . adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. % 702-488-2311. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. 2525 Mountain City Highway. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. % 702-753-6356. 780 Commercial Street. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. % 702-4882315. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. Burger Bar. 1740 Mountain City Highway. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. % 702-738-1622. % 702-7382541. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. 9 Beans and a Burrito. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. Main and Humboldt Streets.300 souls. % 702-753-3877. % 702-738-7898. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. Prices range from moderate to expensive. La Fiesta. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. Pizza Barn. where it survived The Big One in ’06. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. opens daily at 11 AM.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. delivers on its name. also serves hearty meals. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere.
ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. For modern hunter-gatherers. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. which holds trout and walleye. Sites 22. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. Set at 7. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. 680 Wendover Boulevard. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. There is running water and vault toilets. 23. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. 22 miles north of Lovelock. located at the end of Hanson Street. % 800-848-7300. Fees are $7 per night in summer. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. The Peppermill Hotel.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. call % 702-538-7321. The main draw here is 11. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. Set at 7. 25. For more information. % 800-648-9660. $8 for a two-family site. 100 Wendover Boulevard. For more information. just north of the dam.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. call % 800-962-2638. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. two beautiful US Forest Service .600 feet. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. For more information. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. call % 702-738-5171. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. 27 and 29 are especially good.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. offer 12 different restaurants.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. The other one. the area has two campgrounds. $3 per night in winter. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. The fee is $7 per night. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet.400 feet. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October.
The fee is $5 per night.500 feet. For more information. Set at 8. . Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. first-served sites. including three run by the US Forest Service. The campground is usually open May 23 through October.800 feet and is popular with anglers. and are open June to October. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. offering 18 sites with running water. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. % 702-752-3357. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. The campground. but no running water. The cabins are open October through mid-May. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. all free.900 feet. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. has 37 first-come. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. and the fee is $7 per night. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. Angel Creek is set at 6. with running water. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. depending on the availability of running water. One mile north of town. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. and the fee is $8 per night. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. About five miles up NV 225. For information on the above campgrounds. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. % 208-5434129. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest.
Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. like Belmont and Rhyolite. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. Others. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. US For- B Pioneer Territory . He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. however. who once roamed this entire area.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. are in a state of “arrested decay. both socially and physically. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. Meanwhile.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. writer. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. an 11. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
Touring n 167 est Service. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. Nevada Division of State Parks. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. In the Mojave Desert. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. People and services are scarce. Geographically. Toiyabe. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. but the rest of the country. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. Rocky Mountain elk. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. low taxes. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. and six state parks to explore. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. then limber pine at higher elevations. affordable housing . Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable.000. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. Department of Defense. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. In the lowlands.
The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. 3810 Winery Road. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. % 702-7270896. only winery in Nevada. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. % 702-727-5800. According to Winona LaDuke. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. % 702-7276900. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. there’s no competition). Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. blue and white building. contact the Chamber of Commerce. % 702-751-0821. Information Sources For more Pahrump information.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. authorizing up to 90. On the south end of town in a modern. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. The 22. 1771 Sagehen Road. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. is the first and. In 1997. 1141 South Highway 160. It’s also one of the hottest.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. as of this writing. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. mission-style.
Box 610Z. Amargosa Valley. mallards. for some handmade Mexican food. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. HCR 70. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. following the signs to Ash Meadows. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. % 702-372-5435. whitefaced ibises. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. coyotes and rabbits. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. moorhens. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. then head west for about 20 miles. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. % 702-372-1131. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. .300 spread over 545 square miles. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. including ducks. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. It’s no easy job. Visitors can. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. snipe. great blue herons. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. prairie falcons.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. inaccessible to the general public. and the second-greatest in all of North America. NV 89020. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. however. coots. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips.
the gray.000. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. maps. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. HC 70. for more information. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. 50 saloons. % 702-3725459. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. PO Box 6102. % 702-5532200. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked.000 claims over 30 square miles. three newspapers. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West.000. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. Amargosa Valley. . 19 hotels. NV 89020. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. and the old train depot. Kelly’s Bottle House. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. Now recognized as a state historic site.
but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. crystal chandeliers. By 1920. In the first decade of the 20th century. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information.” a collection of white. % 702-553-2424. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. constructed in 1908 for $500. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. turn-of-the-century frontier community.000 dizzy with gold fever. Today the remains of stone buildings. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. Goldfield Founded in 1902. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. Local residents were used as models. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. Once the largest city in the state. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. life-size.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks.000. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. keeping a population of more than 20. when the money ran dry. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. . however. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches.
a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. and east-west-running US 6. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. % 702-485-6365. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. 301 Brougher Avenue. built in 1908 and still in use today. the Central Nevada Museum. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. Before heading out. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. and spend a few hours following its trail. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. including the old post office that is now the local museum. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. however. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. % 702482-3558. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. % 702-482-9676. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. .
which total more than 260. 9 AM to 5 PM. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. with Hawthorne the new seat. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. slide show and research facilities. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. For more on these wonderful regions. are available by special request. including a map room.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. which dates to 1906. ore bins. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. call % 702-482-5355. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. The museum is open daily. power plants. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. As a judge. and the 1907 George A. which helped put the state on the map. photographs and exhibits. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. As this is being written. Located on the north edge of town. the town exploded – figuratively – and . In 1911. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. see below under On Foot. Like many Nevada locales. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. Bartlett House. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. Admission is free. Mineral. A library. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. For more information.000 acres.
The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. Take this road six miles to the town. rocks. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. cameras and photography. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. encircling Hawthorne and its 5.500 people. (See On Water. noon to 4 PM in winter. At the zenith of its existence. a combination truck stop. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. at the corner of 10th and D streets. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. the town boasted 1. fire and railroad equipment.000 residents. minerals. The main attraction. and by 1890 the good times were over. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. however. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. Nevada seat and the Mono . Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. Near the northern tip of the lake.000. % 702-945-5142. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. Victorian furniture. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. below. The museum is open Monday through Friday. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. wildlife and fossils. To reach Candelaria. % 702-945-3266. paved road on the right. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. just three miles from the California border. 898 E Street.) Before heading to the lake. Admission is free. To see where it all started. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. is nearby Walker Lake. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. restaurant and Native American gift shop. The Mineral County Museum. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
For information on any or all. From . but travel is not advised during winter months. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. From Caliente. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. located in a long. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. The 2. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. Boats are not recommended. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. set at 5. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. below). pinyon and juniper forests. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. native plants and unique rock formations. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. All of them offer overnight camping. is open year-round.200 feet. There are 42 campsites. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. The park. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. % 702-728-4467. along with many other events. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited.
There are 37 campsites. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. government cover-ups. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. The original building costs totaled $16. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . for a walking/driving tour map. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. Packed with historic points of interest.000. men in black and all things conspiratorial. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. true believers theorize. Winter travelers might also find snow here.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. they ran up to $1 million. All told. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. % 702-962-5215. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. hazy afternoon. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. From Caliente. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine.
Memorial Day through Labor Day only. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. a bar and cemetery. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. sleeping quarters. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. The park is open all year. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. selling souvenirs and literature. If you’re in the neighborhood. including the old mill. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. Ichthyosaurs. % 702-729-2515. a thought scarier than any little green men. or fish lizards. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town.
to NV 884. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. From here go seven miles to a junction.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. June. August. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. mountain lion. travel west six miles to NV 773. The trail seems faint at times. deer.140 feet. The hike begins on the road. where desert bighorn sheep. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. From here. Return the way you came. up through the sparse forest of . almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. October and November. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. turn right. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. elk. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles.000 feet in 3½ miles. following a stream into Trail Canyon. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. Interpretive tours are held in March. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. Located in the relatively dry. July. For more information. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. call % 702-867-3001. through Gabbs. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. then half a mile east. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. There are numerous access points to the 115. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. April. the highest point in Nevada at 13. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. The trail climbs nearly 2. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. To reach the park from Hawthorne.
the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. up and up alongside the South Twin River. Pine Creek. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. About 500 yards beyond the mill. and at higher elevations. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. About a mile and a half later. nine miles from the trailhead. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. USGS quads for Carvers NW. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. The path descends further. limber pine.361-foot Arc Dome. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. where it crosses the water several times. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. . The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. another narrow. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The 38. pinyon pine and juniper. The main trail leads straight ahead. Consult Toms Canyon. too. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11.020-foot Peavine Peak. the trail gains 1. see the Pony Express Territory chapter.
The summit trail. is lined with aspen and birch. is imposing Mount Jefferson. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. which tops out at 11. literally and figuratively. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. It was used as a hunting camp 5. deer and coyote. From Tonopah. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. which marks the way to Pine Creek. . Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. going west. 11. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. Turn left and head toward the highest point.000 years ago. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. The high point. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. south.949 feet above sea level. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. In fact.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. After turning west. mountain lion. Return the way you came.
are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. so travel with care. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. The main trail continues straight ahead. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC.856foot Monitor Peak. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. As you’ll see. set aside in 1989. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. To complete a nice loop hike. Elk. rugged country. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. This is remote. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. climbing up the creek drainage. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . The trail first splits at mile three. The 98. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. with Dry Lake off to the west. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. From the trailhead. and the skills to use them. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. Hikers should have maps and a compass. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland.000 acres. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail.
Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. % 702-4826286. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. Meanwhile. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. Also close by. then continue south two miles back to the campground. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. some will lead hikes and photography trips. crosses the water and begins a steep. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. refer to Michael C. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. . While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. Enjoy the views. White’s masterful book. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. Once atop the plateau. in Echo Canyon State Park. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. 1997. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. then descending into Ash Canyon. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. Wilderness Press.
PO Box 65. Grand Slam Safaris. % 702-482-6422. 89049. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. Galvin. 89045. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. % 702-283-7797. 27 Smith Gage Road. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. then continues south to a junction. 89045. PO Box 428.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. % 702-465-2598. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Mustang Outfitters. % 702-463-4497. . 89317. Smith. 89049. leaving a strenuous. 89447. PO Box 1149. which. (If you pass Millers.. James S. Timberline Outfitters. unmarked hike to the summit. Yerington Marty S. Stahl. Lund Gary Luisetti. Timberline Outfitters. Jr. % 702-964-1207. you’ve gone too far. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. Round Mountain William A. % 702-482-6258. Mason Valley Guide Service. 8½ miles from US 95. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. The road turns east briefly.108 feet. PO Box 725. % 702-964-2145. turn left and head due south. climbing into a small valley. Expeditions Unlimited. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. Moapa Adam R.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. Nicholas Perchetti. Roy Lerg. HCR 60. Lewis. PO Box 168. Box 77206. at 9. PO Box 162. 89430. Berg. Just beyond the right-of-way. Howard. 89025.
The Belmont Saloon. Just north of Pine Creek. The other ruins are on private property. and Pine Creek. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . Round Mountain Gold still operates here. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). known for abundant wildlife. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. % 702377-2490. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. % 702-482-6331. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. which was first settled in the 1860s. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. For road conditions.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. Manhattan boomed. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. Belmont saw most of the 2. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. so keep your distance. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. A few dozen people still live in the area. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Continuing north. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. is open for business on weekends. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. however.000 to construct in 1876. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness.
Take an unpaved road . The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). mountain mahogany and aspen. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. Pioneer Territory Mt. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. the fauna changes to ponderosa. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. but check on road conditions before you go. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. Wilson National Back Country Byway. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. % 702-482-7800. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. to establish missions. Continuing north. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. From Pioche. For more information contact the BLM. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. .2 mile west of Lockes going south. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. stay out.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. The springs are half a mile away. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. As tempting as a bath might seem. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Not only is the water very hot. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. then part of Utah Territory. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch.
including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. brown. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. At Oakridge Landing. % 702289-4865.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. 5340 South Oakridge Road. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. % 702727-4504. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. Just a mile north of Dyer. Two of the best spots are Peavine . Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. contact the BLM. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump.140-foot Boundary Peak. 13. % 702-727-8276. cutthroat and rainbow trout. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. Information Sources For more information and a map. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773.
by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). Beginning at the southern end of the lake. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. After the road peters out.7 miles north of Hawthorne). Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. The lake is named for Joe Walker. . then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. Covering 37. however. In fact. October and November. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon.000 acres. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. rainbow and brown trout. picnic facilities and boat ramp. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. Fishing derbies are held in February. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. April. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. % 702-482-6286. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah.4 miles).
are the main attraction here. NV 89415. Hawthorne. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Contact the refuge office. Howe. Bishop. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. for details. Brown trout. about 13 miles south of the confluence.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. while Canada geese. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. 633 Schley Street. which are stocked in spring and fall. Kathleen L. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Boaters are welcome. write the group at PO Box 867. % 760-872-2533 . largemouth bass and white crappie. % 702-725-3417. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. Classic Anglers. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada.000 acres. % 702-394-4040. CA. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. 93514. but motors are prohibited. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides.
89049. 89104. PO Box 65. % 702-889-8844.. HCR 60. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Stahl. Mason Valley Guide Service. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. PO Box 168. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Galvin. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. James S. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. Mustang Outfitters. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . Rates start at $100 and go up from there. Timberline Outfitters. Advance reservations are highly suggested. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. home on the range. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. 89045. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. 1220 South Highway 160. The family-style outings. % 702-3721717. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. % 702-964-1207. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. % 702-964-2145. % 702-482-6422. Berg. Suite 9B. Box 77206. Howard. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. Timberline Outfitters. PO Box 725. at least temporarily. % 702-482-6258. PO Box 1149. Nicholas Perchetti. Tonopah Stanley R. 89045. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. 89447. 89049. Jr. The big enchilada is Saddle West.
$-$$. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. Don’t worry. A lounge with live entertainment. non-smoking rooms and a pool. casino and lounge. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. $-$$. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. 420 West Main Street. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. % 800-508-9493. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. % 702-553-2333. % 702-727-5100. % 702553-2912. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. though. a convenience store. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. There are 60 rooms. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. 1201 South Highway 160. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. In short. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. a restaurant. Highway 160 at Loop Road. $-$$. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. along with a pool and honeymoon room. while the inn offers laundry services. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. hair salon. $-$$. % 702-553-2225. lounge. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. The other two motels are the El Portal. 604 Main Street. The Exchange Club Motel. $. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. a casino with live 21. 9000 North 5th Avenue. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. which has 30 rooms and a pool. $-$$. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. $-$$. $-$$. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. % 702-4853431. . the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. has 32 rooms. With 110 rooms. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. $. US 95 at First Street. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. % 702-727-5445. was built in 1905. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. $-$$. including a heated pool. % 702-553-2250.
workout equipment. including four two-bedroom units. The Best Western Desert Lodge. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. $. with 40 rooms. arcade and laundry. location. the Butler has 25 rooms. $. % 702-945-3352. Dating back to 1908. % 702-482-6202. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. $$. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. 1301 5th Street. 100 North Main Street. a restaurant and bar. a casino. also has a pool. Some of the larger. and the sprawling Station House. This place has it all: 75 rooms. free movies and is close to the convention center. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. If you’re into chains. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. Adjacent to Walker Lake. and the 33-room Clown Motel. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. 521 North Main Street. $-$$. pool and free in-room coffee. a Jacuzzi and a pool. restaurants. $$. 1100 Main Street. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. 255 Main Street. which has 93 rooms. $. It has 94 rooms. % 702-482-6224. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. Location. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. with a restaurant. The . comes highly rated. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. % 702-482-9777. Just a block away. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. There are 103 rooms. % 702-482-3577. $. % 702-945-3321. $. % 702-482-6291. a restaurant and free coffee. lounge. The Jim Butler Motel. % 702-945-2660. $. % 702-482-3511. 323 Main Street. has 39 rooms. lounge with entertainment. % 702482-5920. RV hookups. RV parking and free continental breakfast. 826 Main Street. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. a heated pool and a small play area. % 702-945-2444. % 702-482-6238. $. 540 F Street. at very reasonable rates. two restaurants. 700 Main Street. 100 South Main Street. 1 Cliff House Road. 1402 5th Street. has been catering to travelers since 1943. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. $.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. $. a casino. Even dogs are welcome.
% 702-945-2544. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. % 702-945-2573. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. pool and movie theater. $$. a golf course. family fun center and an airport shuttle. % 800-346-7721. % 702-463-2998. $-$$. $-$$$. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. % 702-346-7444. has 67 rooms. the Hawthorne. $. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. $-$$. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. 390 North Sandhill Road. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. pool. $-$$. $$-$$$. and the Rocket. which has 14 rooms. which at last count had 1. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. fitness center and live music. Run by the Masini family. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. pool. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. formerly Players Island. % 800-896-4567. 39 North Center Street. % 800-346-4611. % 702-945-3316. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. Jacuzzi. 2827 Highway 208. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. % 702-465-2573. pool and spa. live entertainment.900 or so residents. % 702-463-2481. which has 14 rooms. RV park and four bungalows. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. a pool. restaurants. Jacuzzi. bars. . with blueprints for hundreds more. has five rooms. $$. tennis courts. $.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. 720 Sierra Highway. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. a pair of family-style restaurants. movie theater and kids’ play area. % 800-621-0187. 301 Mesa Boulevard. $$-$$$. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. $-$$. which has two non-smoking rooms. a pool and a hot tub. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. including dozens of suites. 11 North Main Street. on the corner of 5th and J streets. % 702-463-2991. entertainment. $. Just west of Smith in Wellington. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. To find a quieter environment. $. bowling alley. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. Jacuzzi. % 702-945-2143. golf course. The Casa Blanca. % 702-465-2959.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. has 700 rooms. % 702-465-2341. $$. airport shuttle.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. $$-$$$. a lounge. 694 Sierra Highway. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. with a 24-hour casino. various restaurants. a 925-seat showroom. 965 Sierra Highway.
$-$$. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. % 702-962-5551. % 702-727-7777. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. % 702-729-2515. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. No fast food. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. . % 702-9625404. is open 24 hours a day. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. which has 22 rooms. 450 Front Street. 1220 South Highway 160. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. the Silver Spur. % 702-727-6440.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. % 702-727-0909. $. $. 884 A Street. Rose Garden. % 702-727-7300. Stagestop Casino. Besides. and the buffet starts at $2. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. % 702-726-3291. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. % 702-726-3106. has 13 rooms. also have full-service restaurants. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. a restaurant and bar. 100 West Stagecoach Road. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. % 702-751-7777. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. % 702-727-2404. which has five rooms. and welcomes pets. $-$$. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. 100 LaCour Street. At Saddle West Casino. % 702726-3777. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. $.99. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. pharmacy and bank. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. $. 601 South Highway 160. Flying saucer parking is out back. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche.
and Burro Inn. 501 I Street. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. is the home of two restaurants. % 702-945-3908. 540 F Street. % 702-463-2481. % 800508-9493. 923 5th Street. Traditional American and Continental fare. fill the menu. The . including excellent seafood. % 702-482-6202. you could do worse than El Marques. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. % 702-945-3321. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. % 702-553-2368. try Happy Buddha. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. has a great $7. % 702-945-5253. 348 North Main Street. 570 E Street. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. % 702-945-2727. % 702-4823885. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. open until 9 PM. % 702-945-1700. 1291 5th Street. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. 785 E Street. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. 100 North Main Street. 11 North Main Street. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. % 702-5532225. % 702482-9777. Yerington Casino West. also have family-style restaurants. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. % 702-9452994. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. The Station House. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. also has a 24-hour café. 1100 Main Street. % 702-945-3320. Maggies.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. % 702-553-2111. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. The Exchange Club. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake.
The Virgin River Hotel.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. The Casa Blanca. % 702-4633707. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. along with the usual buffet. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . 915 Mesquite Boulevard. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. serves breakfast. % 800-896-4567. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. is like a blast from the 50s. % 702-463-2054. There’s even an indoor workout facility. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. 702-726-3138. 45 North Main Street. has a 24-hour coffee shop. % 702-7263194. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. 2281 West Scales Way. satisfying and never-ending. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. % 702-727-2314. Carl’s Burgers. % 800-346-7721. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. lunch and dinner. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. % 800-621-0187. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. 111 Highway 208. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. 11 North ALT 95. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. which serves breakfast. Peavine Campground is set at 6. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. To reach the campground from Tonopah. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. % 702463-2868. Dini’s Luck Club. The Mason Valley Country Club. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. % 702-4623300. Two blocks up.
privately owned Desert Lake Campground. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. To reach the campground from Tonopah. providing access to fishing and hiking. The campground is another three miles away. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. above. There are 11 sites set at 6. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. To reach the campground from Tonopah. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. For directions. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. contact the BLM. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. the unpaved road goes south briefly. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. % 702-687-6100. From Tonopah. For information.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. see On Foot. From here.700 feet. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. offers sites for $11 per night. % 702-945-3373. There is no running water and no fee. . running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. through Belmont. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7.100foot level. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. % 702-4826286.800 feet in the Monitor Range.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary.
AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Moon Publishing. David Communications. 1996. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. American Automobile Association. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. 1998. 1995. Henry Holt and Company. 1995. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. 1993. Suggested Reading . 1993. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. They are listed in alphabetical order. American Automobile Association. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. Basin and Range by John McPhee. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. 1994. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Falcon Press Publishing. DeLorme. 1997. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. published by the State of Nevada. 1990. 1997. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Frank Amato Publications. Falcon Press Publishing. Noonday Press. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno.
1997. 1997. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. American & Geographic World Publishing. Gem Guides Book Company. 1993. . Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. 1997. 1992. Bischoff. 1969. Falcon Press Publishing. La Siesta Press. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. Legend and Description by David J. Stolley. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Wilderness Press. Mojave Books. Roughing It by Mark Twain..202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Maturi. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. 1995. Falcon Press Publishing. White. Clark. 1993. Jr. The Globe Pequot Press.
76. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 54-55.183. 32. safety rules. price scale. pictographs art galleries. fishing. 198. biking. Pony Express territory. 42 burros. 36. 117-118. 137 Candelaria. 78.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. restaurants. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 29. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. Reno-Tahoe area. 182. horseback riding. 132. 144 backpacking. camping. 41-43. restaurants. Pioneer territory. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 91 Barley Creek. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. hiking outfit- Index . 8386. Las Vegas. 17. fishing. 199. 135. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 179. camping. events. 38. 124 auto racing. 77. 104-107. Elko. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. restaurants. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 198. Mount Jefferson. see also camping. 168-169. 187-190. 117-119. 169-170 Anasazi people. 197. 89. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 103. 174-175 Austin. special events. 199-201. 115. biking. 27. 129-130 bungee jumping. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 13-15. wild. 174 canoeing. 94-95. Bonneville Salt Flats. 17. biking. skydiving. Pioneer territory. Cottonwood Valley. 78 BLM. 2. 146. transportation. 121. 164. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. touring. 186 Belmont. Las Vegas territory. 179. 144. Reno-Tahoe area. see also petroglyphs. 85. 184. Leonard Rock Shelter. Ichthyosaur State Park. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. restaurants. safety rules. 50-52. 120-123. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 43-44. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 123 Baker Lake Trail. wagon trips. events. festivals. 193 Aurora. see transportation Carson City. 152. 132-133. 86. 187-188 biking. Pony Express territory. 119-120. 194. 104. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). see also zoos. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 187-190. Pony Express territory. 92-96. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. Reno-Tahoe area. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 75-76. 118. 144. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 15-16. 193. 155 boating. 10-12. 131. 181-182. 152. 49. 182-183. 154 animal life. accommodations. 183-184. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 156160. 46. accommodations. 115-116 ballooning. 67-70. 117. 28. 113. touring. 169. specific towns airlines. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. touring. camping. 142. 185. see water sports car rental. 67 bowling. 3135. 35. 26-27 buses. 125-128. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 163-164. 13. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. see transportation air tours. camping. 48-49. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. outfitters. 126. Lovelock Indian Cave. 102. 200 altitude sickness. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). Las Vegas area. hiking. touring. camping. 200 Basque people. 10. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. 193-197. 123. 15-16. 15-16 bird watching. 192 Big Smoky Valley. Pioneer territory. hiking. 27 books. 118. 142. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 194.
Gold Center. 170. fishing. 139. 174-175. 149-150. outfitters. 3. 89. 4-5 Gardnerville. Pony Express territory. Dunn Hatchery. 126. 125. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 98. Midas. Reno-Tahoe territory. 124. 144. 29. 185.5 Cathedral Gorge. Candelaria. 82. 121. accommodations. 177. special events. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 179. 18-19 climbing. Northumberland Cave. 80. pupfish. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 169. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 139 cruises. Cowboy country. 157-158. 177. 131. hiking. restaurants. 150-151. 132-133. 139140 Ely. 134-135. 118. touring. 6-7 ters. 178. 171. 109. 125. 102-104. 179. 179. 116. horseback riding. 121-122. 86. 97. outfitters. springfish. 111. safety rules. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 70. 74. camping. 163-164. 192. outfitters. Lovelock Indian Cave. touring. 14 Colorado River. 153 Chimney Springs. 171-172 Gold Point. 122-123. camping. 179. 188-189 fishing. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 137. 119. 119-120. 12. Shermantown. 184. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 117. 106. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 22. 170. 112 Genoa. Rochester Mining District. Metropolis. camping. accommodations. fishing. 74 Death Valley National Park. 188-189 Clemens. camping. 137. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 142 Great Basin. 110. biking. restaurants. 190 . 127. 37-41. 126-127. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 43-44. fishing. 65 gambling. 79. 186 elk. 98 fossils. Toquima Cave. 87 Dayton. 115 Gold Center. 106 diving. 147-148 Eberhardt. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 138-139. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 168. auto racing. Samuel. 109. 152. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 40. 35-36. 137. 155. 77. Jungo. Reno-Tahoe area. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 119. hiking outfitters. 17. 174. Eberhardt.. 75. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. Lake Tahoe area. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 152-155. 176. 109. Rhyolite. outfitters. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 83. events. 73. 46 Comstock Lode. 108 events: Cowboy country. hiking. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 194-195. sport-climbing ratings. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. Las Vegas area. 160 Goshute Mountains. restaurants. 200 Cowboy Country. 75. Pioneer territory. 187-190. Las Vegas area. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. camping. Pioneer territory. fishing. 155-156. Hamilton. skiing. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 112. 88. 100. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. mercury warnings. 175 climate. 78 casinos. 190-193. accommodations. 185. Camp Winfield Scott. 167. Lehman Caves. 67. 170-171 Denio Junction. John C. 161-162. 15-16 Fremont. camping. 182. Treasure City. 109 Glacier Trail. 143-144. 15-16. 143. 70-71. 120-121. restaurants. see events fish. 176. 125. Las Vegas territory. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. camping. 116-117. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 180 Earth Connections. camping. touring. hiking. 12. touring. 172 golf. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 112. 120. 4. 137. touring. transportation. 13-15. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 142. 44-48. restaurants.
129-131. Reno-Tahoe territory. 137 kayaking. hiking. 151. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 103 Hamilton. RenoTahoe territory. 83. 52-53. fishing. 82. 86. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 165-167. 43. 149-150. 91-92. watersports. camping. 159. 98. 90. hiking. 29-31. 62. 3536. 66. 116-117. Las Vegas area. 150. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. biking. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. skiing. restaurants. 78-79 Jungo. camping. Pioneer territory. Midas Hot Spring. 166. 39. 162. accommodations. 32-33. 200-201. outfitters. 48. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. Reno-Tahoe territory. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 57. 164. 91 information sources. 32 horseback riding. 149. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 90 helicopter tours. horseback riding. 38. 101. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 83-84. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. touring. 110-112. 57-58. hiking. 160. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 64. 53-54. skiing. camping. 107. 64. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 150. 163. water sports. state. 47 lakes. 93. 49-50. touring. 65. 46. Pony Express territory. Las Vegas. 162. see air tours Hemenway Park. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. camping. 158. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 148-149 Humboldt River. outfitters. map. touring. 75.Index Great Basin National Park. Reno. 176. 125. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. Walley’s Hot Springs. 146. 37-40. 119 Index . 24. restaurants. 50-52. 187 Manhattan. balloning and soaring. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. fishing. 118. 13-15. 179 Kingston. 153. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. boating outfitters. special events. 21-22. 145-150. 40-41. 55. hiking outfitters. 118 Lone Mountain. Nevada. touring. 77. 127. 195-196. 41-43. 54. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 20. 37-41. Pony Express territory. events. 1. 78. Pony Express territory. 186-187. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. events. restaurants. hiking. 28. 148-149 jeep tours. 79. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 63-66. 88. 177 mercury warnings. 32-33 Lake Mohave. touring and transportation. 39 history: Cowboy country. 48-49. 130. 80-81 hiking. 36. 99-100. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 60. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 117 hotels. 44 Las Vegas territory. Cowboy country. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. Pioneer territory. 41. touring. transportation. 46. 193. 141-142. 111. 83. Las Vegas territory. Pioneer territory. restaurants. 47. 4WD trail. biking. camping. 102. 140-141 land. description of. 198. Las Vegas territory. touring. 45. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 152. 31-35. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. camping. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. snow sports outfitters. 192. 46. 120 Incline Village. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 23-29. 82. 34-35 Lehman Caves. transportation. camping. outfitters. 112-117. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 188-189. 106. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. camping. 40. transportation. 132 Lexington Arch. restaurants. hiking outfitters. air tours. 181-187. restaurants. 156. touring. Kyle Hot Spring. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region.
69. 72. fishing. 68. 25. accommodations. hiking outfitters. 183. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 2. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. Western Folklife Center. 109-110. 126. 107. Fleischmann Planetarium. 139. 127 pictographs. 72-73. 80-81 Native American festivals. 196197. outfitters. see biking Mount Charleston. Clark County Heritage Museum. camping. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 177. 106 nuclear testing. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. The Way It Was Museum. Capitol Building and Museum. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 25. 34. 199 Metropolis. horseback riding. 180 Minden: events. 29 Mount Jefferson. 71. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 33. 102. 73. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. May Museum and Arboretum. touring. 61. Las Vegas Art Museum. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. Guinness World of Records Museum. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 177. 135. Bonneville Speedway Museum. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. The Castle. touring. 8182 Mesquite. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 174. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 199. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 71. Piper’s Opera House. hiking. 10. 197-198. 3-4. Colorado River Museum. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 71. 98. Nevada State Library & Archives. 187 Mojave Desert. see accommodations motorcycles. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 26. 61. 174. 107. 73. 23. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. fishing. 175. 34. 189-190 Muir. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 153 Northumberland Cave. 4. 163. Northeastern Nevada Museum. National Automobile Museum. restaurants. 78. Keck Minerals Museum. 158. 69. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 135136. 79. 67. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. Marshall Mint Museum. 69. Humbolt Museum. 134 petroglyphs. 165 nuclear waste. Central Nevada Museum. fishing. 174. 43. Roberts House Museum. 34. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. Lost City Museum. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 165. 26. 61 music and theater. 25-26. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 109. Liberace Museum. 26. 8. 68. 181 Moapa. 61. 43. Marzen House Museum. 31.206 n Index seum. 103. 139. 173. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 167-168 Paiutes. 178. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. Mineral County Museum. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 2. skiing and snowboarding. 4. 70-71 mines and mining. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 200. 175. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 86. 25. hiking. 133. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 171. White Pine Public Museum. 170. restaurants. 153. 70. 75. Virginia & Truckee Depot. see biking mountain biking. Mark Twain Museum. 69. 35. Desert Valley Museum. 200 motels. 91. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 25. 108. 188. 171. Gold Well Open Air Museum. Brewery Arts Center. 73. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 68. 173. touring. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 199-200. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 83. 61. camping. John. 142. 193-194. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 73. Lyon County Muserum. 23 Overton: touring. 25. 73. 142 Midas. 11 Mosquito Creek. 69. Wilbur D. Nevada State Mu- . 29. Stewart Indian Museum. 34. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 26. 2. Nevada Historical Society. 32. 173. 177. 77.
114-115 theater. accommodations. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 76. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 150-151. see also specific towns Rhyolite. skiing. 180. 145 Stateline: accommodations. touring. hiking. 197 rafting. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 88 Shermantown. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 160-163. transportation. restaurants. hiking. 87. 176 rodeos. see mines and mining skiing. 76. camping. 17. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 197-199. 98. 78. 96-97. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 42. Benjamin “Bugsy. 143. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 91. 117. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 193. see climbing rock hunting. water sports. 167. 123-125. 144. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 84. 200 temperature chart. 78. fishing. 17. 54. 90 sport climbing. see climbing springfish. 26-27. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 163. 153 Sparks. 77. Las Vegas territory. 146. 65 Pony Express territory. 79-80. 145-146 prostitution. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 85. 179 Searchlight. 84-85 swimming. 83-84. fishing. 163-164. 138 rock climbing. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge.” 4 silver. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 185-186. RenoTahoe area. 94 special events. 106 Siegel. auto. 190. Pony Express territory. biking. special events. 154. camping. 163. 113. 53-54. see skiing snowmobiling. 59-61. 98. 115. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 112. biking. 52 pupfish. 181. 12. touring. 142. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. camping. accommodations. restaurants. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. outfitters. touring. 89-91 skydiving. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. bike. 49-50. hiking and climbing. Pioneer territory. 197. 186-187. 74 races. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. hiking. snow sports outfitters. Las Vegas area. 89. 66. 93-94. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 88 Star Peak: hiking. skiing. camping. 143 Rachel.Index Pioche: accommodations. 198. 165-201 plant life. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 76. 129-130. 170 rivers. 79. 109 Shoshone people. 146-147. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 48-49 snowboarding. 144. see events Round House Art Gallery. 193. 169 Pyramid Lake. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 92-93. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 173 Index . horse. restaurants. 187. 144. hiking. 80 pronghorn antelope. 54. 88. 195. 9 Sand Mountain. 17. 9697. touring. 104. 17. 106 Spooner Lake. 9-10. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 134. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. camping. motorcycle. 13 Price Lakes. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. see events price codes. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 36. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. Reno-Tahoe area. fishing. fishing. 179. 82. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 156. 180 Pioneer territory. 90 soaring. fishing. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. biking. climbing and hiking. 77-78.
163-164. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. wildlife and bird watching. 75. 163. Ruby Mountains. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. Pony Express territory. 44-48. 150. Table Mountain Wilderness. 95. 127. 31. 109 trees. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 168 zoos. 35. 83. 176 wineries. 135-137. touring. Winnemucca. 200-201. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 159-160. camping. 145-146. camping. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. touring. 183-184.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. Reno-Tahoe territory. 151 Wovoka. special events. 32. 71-74 Virgin River. 156-157. Mark. 26-27. Wilson Canyon. events. 178. hiking outfitters. 149. 150. 45. 71. outfitters. camping. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 119-120. see transportation transportation: airports. 25 Topaz Lake. 33. 86 Wells: accommodations. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 143. 66. 62. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 117. 29-30. Echo Canyon State Park. 97. horseback riding. 144. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Cleve Creek Campground. water sports. 39 vineyards. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 61. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. see plant life tufas. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 176 Yerington: accommodations. hiking. 168-169. Jack’s Valley Road. 29. camping. 164. hiking outfitters. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 147-148. 104. 174 walking. 193 Walker Lake. 80-81. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 55. restaurants. events. 155. 68. 144. Ruby Marsh. climbing and hiking. 167. 31. 73. Walker Lake. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. Goshute Mountains. 185. 127. 155 . 188-189. outfitters. 89. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. Pioneer territory. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 139. Hemenway Park. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 38. 179. hiking. 162. 34-35. 117 Toquima Cave. 199. 80. camping. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 41. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 152-155. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. Pioneer territory. restaurants. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. Earth Connections. restaurants. 172. 151 Wilson Canyon. events. fishing. Santa Rosa Mountains. 110. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. camping. 134 Twain. buses. 111. 143. 182-183. 79-80. 153-154. 159. 146. 98. 30-31. 20. 76. 139-140 Treasure City. rental cars. 106 trains. Amtrak. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. outfitters. 191-192. 155. 176. 177. 187. 193. 67. 157. touring. touring. touring. 191 UFOs. 160-161. Lake Mead. 112. High Rock Canyon. 196. 174. touring. 85. Las Vegas territory. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. 77-78. 102. 192. 62. Arc Dome Wilderness. restaurants. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. restaurants. 62. hiking. 190-193. fishing.