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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. About 27 million of them. you’ll know better. In fact. Florida.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. giant sloths. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. that’s good news. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. According to author John Hart. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. as the top tourism destination in the US. For anyone who loves the outdoors.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. which covers most of Nevada. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. half-pound hot dogs. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. bison. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. These mammoths. In fact. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. pausing on . plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. you can have the whole wild. however.500 and 10. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. horses. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin.” and for good reason. Among the 50 states.
In the south. fish hooks. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. hand tools. including southern Nevada. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. the first European entered Nevada. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. shells. points. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. Exactly 50 years later.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. In 1776. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. Many prime archeological sites. The Northern Paiutes. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. In the 12th century. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. however. His party wintered in California. By about 500 AD. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. established trade routes. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. followed in Garces’ footsteps. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. . who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. Jedediah Smith. wetlands and springs. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City.
tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. who would later become a war hero. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. Introduction . covering most of Utah and Nevada. the church established the State of Deseret. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. In 1830. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. In 1859. was dispatched to map the area. as it came to be called. continued to oversee Nevada. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. Fremont. Nevada became a state on Halloween. Eight years later the first wagon train. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. camping at Las Vegas. dominated by the church. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. the Mormons were the first white residents. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. which helped open the gateway to the West. In 1849. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. DC. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink.History n 3 In the north. In 1843 and ’44. The Comstock Lode. then returned east along the route the next year. In 1845. swelling the population well into five figures. and headed over the Sierras. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. John C. 1864. but the Utah Territory government. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. In 1833. with Brigham Young as governor. but abandoned it two years later. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). encountering Pyramid Lake. By 1857. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. and. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort.
In 1873.000 people in 1960. the first true hotel-casino. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. the mother of all lodes. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. Carson City.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. upscale Vegas. In 1855. however. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. Winnemucca. later known as the Nevada Test Site. Howard Hughes sud- . but was ambushed. particularly in southern Nevada. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. commerce and industry. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. chief of the Northern Paiutes. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. the Big Bonanza. bringing town sites. Then in 1966. Streets were laid out. In the teens and ’20s. killed two-thirds of them. son of Winnemucca. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. violence escalated. the Flamingo soon reopened. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. Meanwhile. Warriors under Numaga. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. In 1874. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. Reno and the surrounding areas. signed a treaty with the federal government. Siegel’s vision. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. then underground tests for 30 more. opened in 1950. was struck in Virginia City. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. In 1860. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. Ironically. began making money and the boom was on. was of a classy. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. then picked up again in the early 1900s. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65.
This time. But the explosion has not been without fallout. Winnemucca. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. today there are master-planned communities. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. .3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. How much is too much. and Americans have become moths to the flame. trappers. places like Elko. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. Fallon and Mesquite. The entire West will be watching what transpires. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. however. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. moving to the region in record numbers. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. To many. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. miners. By 1970. are reaping the windfall. Mom and their 2. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. a land dominated by a mobile population. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. find enough water. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. DC.
down a range. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. lakes. 13.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. Named by explorer John C. Get the idea? After all.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. In fact. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. Wheeler Peak. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Here. across a sagebrush-covered basin. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. hills and uplands.839foot Matterhorn. On the other side of the state. Near Las Vegas. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. then up another range. The roof of Nevada is 13. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. and so on. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. dry. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. towers over Great Basin National Park. Depending on who’s counting.000 feet. Fremont in 1844. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped.063 feet. In the north. reservoirs and other watery bodies. the Carson and the Humboldt. The Colorado River . the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. Yes. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. with nine ranges topping 11. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. The notion of Nevada as a flat. Nevada even has its own 10. down another range.000 feet to nearly 12. then disappear into their respective “sinks. gurgle through the northern part of the state.000 feet in the space of a few miles.
Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state.000 acres. most notably Lake Tahoe. are the only reliable. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. Lower and drier.000 years ago covered 8. in the remote north near Jarbidge. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. the southeastern corner of Nevada. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. only 65. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. In the 1970s. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. it’s an uphill climb all the way. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. natural sources of running water.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. In 1989. For the greens. a great inland sea that 50. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. establishing 77. are part of the vast Mojave Desert.500 square miles of western Nevada. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. the largest alpine lake in North America. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise.000-acre Great Basin National Park. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada.
the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. Apart from aspens.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. is generally found throughout the state between 5.000 feet above sea level. horsebrush and shadescale. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. such as rabbitbrush. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. greasewood. At elevations above 6.000 and 8. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. The recommendations have been under review for years. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless.000 feet. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). The squat Utah juniper. Still. the soil supports . 14 national recreation areas. with its tiny. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. Death Valley.
support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. Washoe pine. The king of Great Basin vegetation. willow and dogwood. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. hallucinogenic sacred datura. The Joshua tree. In the mountains. up to 5. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. At the other extreme. lodgepole pine.000 feet. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. the official state grass.000 years. creosote bush has an oily. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. along with alder. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. Above the desert floor. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. or jimson weed. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. which is actually a type of yucca. prickly pear. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. The rare. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. Black bears. which make up just 1% of the land. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. western white pine. ponderosa pine. bristlecone pine. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. however. hedgehog and barrel. the mountain lion. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. blooms by night here.
Ironically. beaver. skunk. brook. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. Blacktail jackrabbits. Snakes include several types of rattlers. pika. coyote. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. golden and Dolly Varden .10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. Gambel’s quail. chuckwalla. badger. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. rainbow. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. the black widow and brown recluse. brown. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. In the air over the desert. prairie falcon. also live in the Mojave. weasel. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. Meanwhile. Trout are the favorite of anglers. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. while mule deer are abundant. seen on Nevada’s license plates. redtailed hawk. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. with Lahontan cutthroat. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. burrowing owl and canyon wren. help comes from hunters. America’s two poisonous spiders. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. kangaroo rats. fox. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. The desert bighorn sheep. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. greater roadrunner.
It also assumes that you will start your adventures.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. A section on Touring follows. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. on land. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. on snow and in the air. covering its history. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. like almost every other Nevada visitor. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. culture and most attractive features. such as visitors bureaus. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. Cowboy Country. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. broken down by specific locales. Reno-Tahoe Territory. on water. This section also includes sources for expert information. Along with detailed information on where to go. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory.
This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. Trails may be gone. so use these symbols only as a general reference. . Backpacking. . . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . .12 n Introduction ing chart. . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. Up to $50 per day $$ . . . . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . . . . . . Hiking. . . . . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . . $50 to $100 $$$ . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . . forethought and patience. . Finally. Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . . . . . . . . .
although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.0 to . it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. occasionally using hands Class 4 . The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. . the lower numbers (. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada.0 to . As this guide goes to press.Easy hiking.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . ranging from . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. so help is usually a long way away.Climbing.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. known as the Yosemite Decimal System. Class 2 .14 (and sometimes beyond). using the hands.Boulder hopping. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. the most popular among serious rock climbers.Adventures n 13 Finally. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . For Class 5 routes.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency.
check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale.10. Storms are more common in the afternoon. n n n n n . If the plan changes. In the arid country of Nevada. Begin hiking early in the day. dehydration and lightning. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. until all holds disappear at . your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. not hard-and-fast rules. legend. climbers enter the realm of myth. Always take fresh water with you. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. use common sense before you get into trouble. climbing partners. Don’t travel alone. Beyond that. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. Pack spare everything – food.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. Be aware of conditions. Give them descriptions of yourself. taking into account personal experience. By their nature. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. As with all outdoor activities. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. clothing. then amended by subsequent climbers. Assistance can take hours or days.
racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. preferably one with a large gas tank. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. jack. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. water and fluids. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. four-wheel-drive vehicle. but a powerful. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. . tools. Arizona. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. extra gas. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. high-clearance job. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. spare belts. Not one of those trendy.
n If you find a traveled road. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. For more information on desert survival. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. Mountain biking in Nevada. PO Box 39340. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. in wilderness areas). leave a note telling searchers who you are.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. drink it as needed. n If water is in limited supply. of course. contact DARES. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. when you left and where you are headed. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. stay on it. The rest of Nevada. however. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. 85096. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. . stay put. Phoenix. is more popular than ever. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. left out of popular literature. n If you have water. AZ. Do not ration water. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. minimize talking and eating.
Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. And where there are tourists. lakes and reservoirs. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. but take extra care. Meanwhile. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. there are all types of sky-high adventures. the gem of the Sierras. Ballooning. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Skydiving. Many streams. At these higher elevations. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. and gigantic Lake Mead. there are tourists.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Soaring Where there is Vegas. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Fishing. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes.
In the Great Basin. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. but despite the obvious danger. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. although they can occur at any time of year. . summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. For those who like to watch. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. Flashfloods are the predictable result. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. temperatures above 110° are common. throwing rain. If thunderstorms threaten. get out of lowlying areas. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. Laughlin. Leave the high altitudes as well. These storms are known to appear with little warning. Summer and early fall can be blistering. on the Colorado River. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape.
Carson City. NV 89311. % 702-687-4219. Nevada Department of Transportation. For information on specific locales. NV 89703. Baker. % 702-785-6500. 84401. US Forest Service. Great Basin National Park.com. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. % 702-687-4384. Nevada Division of Wildlife. In the north. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. Carson City. windy. 1100 Valley Road. Capitol Complex. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. Carson City.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. % 702234-7331. NV 89502. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. Bureau of Land Management. basin winters can be chilly. Ogden. Reno. 850 Harvard Way. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. UT. In southern Nevada. % 801-625-5182. In the mountains. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. rainy and occasionally snowy. % 702-688-1500. Intermountain Region. 324 25th Street. % 800-NEVADA-8. Nevada Division of State Parks.travelnevada. 1300 South Curry Street. Reno. 1263 South Stewart Street. NV 89712. Nevada Commission on Tourism. NV 89710. see the listings that accompany each chapter. www. too. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. . NV 89520.
the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. .” But step outside the hotel-casinos. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks.000-foot peak. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. lounge shows – and recently. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert.000-year-old petroglyphs. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. try hiking to an 11. both prehistoric and otherwise. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. cheap food. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. Inside the city limits. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. in plain view of the casinos. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. closer. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). actual cosmopolitan.95 for adults. % 702-798-5595. Ham Concert Hall. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. Yes. Seasonal streams. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. call % 702-895-3801. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. faculty and invited artists. % 702-363-1921. Dedicated to Mr. % 702-895-3893.50 for seniors. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. $3. is the Liberace Museum. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. The museum is open Monday through Friday. features work by students. Just off the glittering Strip. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. Southeast of the Strip. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. but no less extravagant. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. % 702-895-3381. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. giant. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. 1 PM to 5 PM. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. Admission is $4. Sunday. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. 8 AM to 5 PM.95 for seniors and students. 9 AM to 9 PM. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 10 AM to 5 PM. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. $4. The tax-deductible admission is $6. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue.95 for adults. Showmanship. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. % 702-895-3011.
among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. (See below. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. % 702-875-4191. % 702-486-5413. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. The admission is $5 per vehicle. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. have been unearthed here. saloon. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. % 702-875-4141.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. wife of a German munitions tycoon. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. petting zoo. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. The park is open daily. one-way loop drive is early morning. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. The restaurant and bar are open daily. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. 7 AM to dusk. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. With structures dating back to 1864. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. Today there is a restaurant. 5 PM in the winter. trail rides and a “real” Western town. Admission is $4. The park is open daily. 8 AM to sunset. the road to Mt. Charleston. 8 AM to 11 PM. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. Back on US 95. 8 AM to 5 PM.) The best time to take the 13-mile. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. later during summer months. under Adventures on Foot. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. The park is open daily. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15.
under Camping. % 702-872-7098. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area.918 feet. and its 1. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. Bighorn sheep. (See below.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. Charleston Hotel.) Pitch a tent. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. % 702385-2SKI. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. elevation 11.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. under Adventures and Camping. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. see below under On Snow. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. The 1. In the winter. % 702-646-3401.) . under On Wheels. % 702-872-5408. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. At the northern edge of the reservation. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. Nevada’s state animal. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. (See below. % 702-872-5500. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. (See below. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. under On Foot. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. Charleston Lodge. the Mt. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort.000 vertical feet of runs. completing the Mt. 2 Kyle Canyon Road.) After the hike. (See below. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. Charleston Loop. 17-mile. desolate valley.
% 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-538-5494 Midway.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines.
% 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. AA Auto Rentals.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International.
but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. % 800-332-5333. % 702-294-1888. % 702-735-1616. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. Gray Line Tours. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. 1830 South Boulder Highway. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. 3150 Paradise Road. Did it work? Judge for yourself. stopping downtown. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. Admission is $1.50 for adults. The museum is open daily. . On the north side of Boulder City. 444 Hotel Plaza. 711 East Desert Inn Road. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. % 702-455-7955. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. Call % 800USA-RAIL. NV 89109. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. NV 89109. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. $1 for seniors and children under 16.
Hoover Dam took 5. boating and diving. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. Las Vegans. head back toward Boulder City. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. Hoover also created Lake Mead. and 45 feet thick at the top. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. All of 726 feet high. for information on camping. fishing. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. Children under 10 are free. 89005. swimming. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. $2. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. 500 South Boulder Highway. 100 Nevada Highway. 89105. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. % 702-565-8591. % 702-293-8907. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. Phoenix and Los Angeles. (See On Water below. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. % 702-293-2034. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. The cost is $5 for adults.) Be sure to heed the . 660 thick at the base.
. Back on Nevada 167. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. % 702-397-2088. From the visitor center. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). % 702-293-6180. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. nearly five miles off the highway. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. explain the geology and forces of erosion. The displays in the visitor center. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. Just beyond the bay. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. Go straight to reach Henderson. a public swimming and boating area. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. Beyond here. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. thank you. which rests on the Virgin River.
% 520-754-3628. (For details on all three. Nevada’s record-high temperature.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. South of here is camping. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. the town was a gold. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. 9 AM to 5 PM. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. % 702-297-1682. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. % 520-754-3399. % 800-46-4584 . East of Searchlight 14 miles. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. The museum is open Monday through Friday. % 520-754-3272. under Adventures. Named for a brand of matches. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. Admission is a $1 donation. see below. bar and bait shop. 125°. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. on Lake Mojave. % 520-754-4606. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. 9 AM to 1 PM. campground and fishing and swimming spots. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff.000 visitors a month. a campground and marina. 355 Highway 95. Saturday. % 702-297-1464. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. with motel.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. constructed his Riverside Casino. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. in Bullhead City. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. relives those days. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. Arizona.
% 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. % 800-331-1212 Budget. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. 1555 South Casino Drive. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. In Laughlin. % 800-227-5254. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. % 800-736-6247 United Express. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. as many as 6. % 702-876-3380. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 310-448-1822. Special Events February In February. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. host- . April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 800-325-8007 Hertz.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. May is the busiest month. % 800-227-5245. % 702-798-6405.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon.
floats into Laughlin. % 702-457-2797. % 702-293-2034. blows in. to downtown. % 702-457-5775. % 702-631-7000.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. to the waters of Lake Mead. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. the Parade of Lights. % 702-898-6565. % 702687-5777. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. a three-day balloon rally. % 800-637-1006. the Las Vegas Classic. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. to the campus of UNLV. a confluence of Southern Paiute. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. to town. . % 702-293-4857. % 702-386-3926. Navaho and Mojave peoples. % 702-4541212. % 702-2939256. Later in the month. % 702-870-1221. Another balloon festival. October Art in the Park. % 800-227-5245. take place in Boulder City. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. the International Black Heritage Festival. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. % 702-8953900. % 702-293-1611. % 702-452-8066. takes place in Vegas. also takes place in October. August In August. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. % 702434-0848. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. and the National Finals Rodeo. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow.
teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. so chalk often stays put for months. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. so take extra precautions when adventuring here.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley.9). White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. To the west. while nearby Cloud Tower (5.11b).9) has 1. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. Sheep Trail (5. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. Stratocaster (5. in fact. Graveyard Waltz (5.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. is to mountain bikers.11). Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. At nearby Willow Springs. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5.11d) offers more advanced routes. Other routes in- .11+). On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. Utah. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5.11). At the end of a 90-minute approach. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. Crimson Chrysalis (5. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas.11).8). Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. Chicken Eruptus (5. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. Red Rock attracts free climbers. especially in winter months. The Choad Warrior (5. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.7) crag and mixed climbing walls.12a). is only 35 minutes from the Strip.
8) and Eagle Dance (5. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. At the aforementioned fork. & For more information. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area.000 feet. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads.918 feet. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. an easy six-mile round-trip. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. The 3. . the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. gaining 3. Following the fork. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. ending at a small dam and the spring. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs.000 feet in four miles. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. 17 miles round-trip.6). turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders.000 feet. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak.12). all that remains of his 1920s homestead. Rainbow Buttress (5. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon.10 or 5. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. toward a ridge at 11. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. About seven miles from the visitor center. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. Chockstone Press. elevation 11. page 41. The South Loop Trail. consult the Bible of local climbers. published by the American Alpine Club. to savor the 300-mile views. The trail switchbacks time and again.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. See Outfitters.
gaining 1.000 feet to a saddle. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. contact the US Forest Service. . The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. To the northwest. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way.4 miles. covering two miles and gaining 1. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany.000 feet into the northeastern sky. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. For trail information and weather and safety updates.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. Mountain T Ranch. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. thunderstorms and snow. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. the trail climbs 1.000 feet above the desert. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. At lower elevations. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. Never take these altitudes lightly. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. Beginning on a dirt road. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas.
in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. Just south of this outcrop. ascending northwest. PO Box 1. outlines the easiest route. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. turn right. . Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. Sports & Adventure Tours. go 6. % 702-434-3388. which is marked by a post. % 888-86ROCKY. % 702-596-2953. climb a gully to reach a ridge. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Las Vegas. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. Bruce Grubbs. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. Climb northward up the slope. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. Falcon Press Publishing.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. 89137. PO Box 80875. Las Vegas. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. HCR 33. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. Stay below the northern peaks.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. 89180. then go northwest to another plateau. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-364-8687. Suite 4. Las Vegas 89117. 89124. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. % 702-254-5604. PO Box 371324. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. and park at the end of the road. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. heading for the northernmost outcropping.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. % 702-223-2176. Rocky Trails.2 miles.
% 702-2567433. Desert Rock Sports. % 702-383-0838. 4065 East Patrick Lane. Las Vegas. Wagons West. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. PO Box 19210.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. 617 Hoover Avenue. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. Peak Sports. 89132. Desert Outfitting. Armed . Silver State Old West Tours. Hahn’s World of Surplus. % 702-458-8870. % 702-254-1143. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. % 702-649-6819. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. % 702362-7177. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-252-7114. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. % 702-875-1978. % 702387-2457. Cowboy Trail Rides. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. At mile post 17. however. % 702-798-6565.6 mile to a dirt road. can arrange a covered wagon trip.
Turn right. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. scanning for a cairn on the left. turn right. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. go to the next intersection. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. a six-mile loop. Go left here. contact the Bureau of Land Management. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. At the road. A double track soon appears on the right. For a tamer road trip. flying downhill and then up to another road.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. and pump uphill. % 702-647-5000. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. Take this until you reach a double track. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. make a quick right and head downhill. 4765 Vegas Drive. Head downhill. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. NV 89126. For a more challenging excursion. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. before heading out. Turn right. After beginning another climb. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. . PO Box 26589. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. Las Vegas. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. heading uphill. zoom downhill to the fork. turn left to another intersection and turn right.
site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. Turn left to return to US 15. 16 Cottonwood Drive. % 702-596-2953. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. the byway forks. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. % 702-646-3401. Downhill Bicycle Tours. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. At about the 10-mile mark. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. Las Vegas Bikes USA. Ski Chalet. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. % 702-876-8687. % 702-8978287. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. 7934 Cadenza Lane. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. % 702-642-2453. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-451-9586. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. Escape the City Streets. % 702-252-8077. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. . R&R Cycling. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard.
% 702-454-5555. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. 713 East Ogden Street. of all places. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. % 702-796-9355. is on the premises. 2810 South Highland Drive. Old West Territory Tours. It begins. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. % 702-380-6969. crystal-clear hotel pool. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. % 702-646-8800. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. 4765 West Vegas Drive. Suite B. Rebel Adventure Tours. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. For details. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. maps and more information on backcountry byways. 89101. Las Vegas. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. 3700 Flamingo Road. . 8 AM to 11 AM. an avid angler for more than 50 years. % 888-REELRIO. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM.
the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. Off Nevada 167. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. water skiing. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. The expert staff is available seven days a week. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. under Boating Outfitters. largemouth bass and trout. rents houseboats. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. meals and overnight lodging for $449. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. % 800-2555561. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). For details. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. about three miles across at its widest point. flows into Lake Mead.500-acre ranch in Utah. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. Forever Resorts. jet skiing. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. offering professional advice. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. Boulder Beach.) Swimming. and two.to three-days notice is required. instruction and gear. (See below. % 800-34-SCUBA. . Thomas. powerboats and cruisers.
% 702-293-6180. HCR 30. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. % 702-2931190. Lake Mead Cruises. 89102. The cost is about $65 per person. . Lake Mead Resort & Marina. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. 89006. Las Vegas. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. Return transportation is provided by bus. particularly near cliffs. PO Box 61235. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. % 800-696-RAFT. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. % 702-565-8958. 89124. PO Box 100. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. is the local fishing and boating hub. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. % 702-252-7114. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Las Vegas. Calville Bay Resort. Lake Mojave Farther south. PO Box 62465. 89006. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. 322 Lake Shore Road.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. % 702-754-3245. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. Near Laughlin. offers trips from January through November.
PO Box 29279. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. % 702-564-5660. Fiesta Queen Cruises. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 89040. 520-758-6242. Sunset Bait & Tackle. % 702-459-2080. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702565-0696.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. % 702-3944000. 1450 Newberry Drive. 4290 Boulder Highway. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 89029. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. Overton. AZ. PO Box 29279. % 702297-1464. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. Clearwater Flyfishing. % 702-452-8299. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. % 800-228-9825. Bullhead City. Overton. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. Overton Beach Marina. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. % 702-433-3263. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. Laughlin River Tours. 89028. Tom’s Water Skiing. % 702-437-9283. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. % 702-5659111. . Laughlin. 89040. % 702-388-1022.
however. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern.J. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. With commercial balloon tours. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. The company claims more than 500. Jim Goff. Saturday until midnight. Hackett Bungy. Karen Jones. 1500 Palomino Drive. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. Even more memorable. A jump is $59.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. Arizona and Zion. 3800. % 702-385-4321. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. % 702-564-1558. citing growing noise problems. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. 68 Mallory Road. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. % 702-434-0848.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. 161 East Rancho Drive. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. . % 702-871-1399. ext. Henderson Bill Spellman. noon to 9 PM. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. HB Fishing Guide Service. 810 Circus Circus Drive. complete with guided ground tours and meals. Utah. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. % 702-565-8396. % 702-451-4004. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. % 702-5657583.
% 800-216-8330. King Airelines. % 702-221-9199. Air Vegas Airlines. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. % 800-359-8727. D&R Balloons. Skydive Las Vegas. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. Las Vegas. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. % 702-736-0013. % 800-255-7474. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. % 702-293-1860. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. NV 89019. Scenic Airlines.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. Jean Airport. 2705 Airport Drive. 806 Buchanan Street. 89109. Set at a base elevation of 8. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881.ultimateballoonadven. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. 200 Convention Center Drive. % 800-535-4448.com. 806 Buchanan Street. Eagle Canyon Airlines. Jean. #115-200. % 800-634-6851. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. % 702-385-2SKI. NV 89117. Boulder City. 3275 Rosanna Street.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . Las Vegas Skydiving Center. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. 241 East Reno Avenue. % 800-634-6377. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. Sundance Helicopters. PO Box 19629. Las Vegas. % 702-877-1010. Heli USA. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Web site www. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. 89005. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. Las Vegas Airlines. % 800-446-4584. An all-day lift ticket runs $27.
The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. HO TE L Many hotels.000 techies to Sin City. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. % 702-385-5200. All they do is take up space. are booked solid on weekends. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. over 100. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. % 702-646-0008. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. But somehow. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. $-$$. it seems.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. For more serious snow. Above all. if possible. 2395 North Rancho Road. 18 East Fremont Street. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. even behemoths like the 5. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well.000 visitors. luring 200.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. 600 East Fremont Street. The place was once part-owned by in- . on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. $-$$$. % 702-385-1664. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town.000-room MGM Grand. % 800-272-7426. After all.
the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. Across the street is the green giant. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. The Golden Nugget. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. the Flamingo. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza.037 rooms. Monte Carlo. 128 East Fremont Street. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. The movie Rainman was shot here. $-$$. 3000 Paradise Road. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-385-7111. Down the street. New York. 1 Main Street. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. New York is out there. and New York. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . however. the young upstarts. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. $$-$$$$. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. The faux volcano. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. % 702-740-NYNY. % 702-791-7171. $$$$$. South of here. $$-$$$$. $$$-$$$$. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. across from the Fashion Show Mall. has 1. who built the first casino resort. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). % 702-740-NYNY. 129 East Fremont Street. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. % 702-386-2110.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. $$-$$$$. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. % 702-732-5111. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. $-$$. is a crowd-pleaser. % 702-894-7111. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. New York. % 702-731-7110. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. 202 East Fremont Street. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. If staring at wealth is your thing. % 702-3821600. The Mirage. way out there. $$-$$$$. $$-$$$. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. Even by Vegas standards. Caesars Palace. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. The Four Queens. the MGM Grand. Next door is the Island’s big sister. dominate the Strip. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. % 702-385-4011.
contact the Chamber of Commerce. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. which eliminates Reno. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. In the Spring Mountains. while Bellagio will boast 3. $$-$$$$. % 702-875-4400.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts.500 rooms. three Motel 6s. $$-$$$$. Charleston Hotel. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. % 800-634-3988. % 702-262-4555. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Charleston Resort. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. has 2. the Mt. % 702-872-5500. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. . $-$$$. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. set at 7. positively sedate with its 5. contrary to popular belief.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. At this book goes to press.000. Bonnie Springs Motel. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. but don’t count on that for long.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. TIP Laughlin For the most part. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. % 702-735-1616. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. On the outskirts of Vegas. $-$$. too. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid.000 visitors a month and climbing. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. % 702-872-5408.
both at the MGM Grand. 1350 East Flamingo Road. Andiamo. while the Colorado Belle. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. $-$$$. and Harrah’s. 202 Fremont Street. $-$$.000 rooms. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. serves upscale Italian fare. $-$$$. and Gatsby’s. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. After a few meals at most of these troughs. Emeril’s. and very expensive. has 1. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. offers 2. 2100 South Casino Drive. % 702-733-3111. % 702-385-5016. % 702-252-7777. Downtown at the Four Queens. At the Flamingo Hilton. Off the main drags. % 702-298-2214. Andre’s. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . Café Michelle. $$$$. contact the Chamber of Commerce. The Edgewater. % 702-298-7111. $-$$$. 2900 South Casino Drive. however. $-$$. % 702-891-7374.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. % 702-298-4600. % 702-3807711. while the Golden Nugget. % 702-385-4011. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. classy Hugo’s Cellar. Eurasian mélange. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. 3700 West Flamingo Road. 2300 South Casino Drive. in the Las Vegas Hilton. % 702735-8686.500 rooms. sports a railroad theme. Nearby. The Ramada Express. 2000 South Casino Drive. 401 South 6th Street. % 702-298-4000. % 702-298-2453. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. An excellent buffet. $-$$. Hamada. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. % 702-298-2535. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the Flamingo Hilton. 1650 Casino Drive. % 702-891-7337. % 702-732-5111. On the Strip. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. % 702-298-5111. 2121 South Casino Drive. 1900 South Casino Drive. To really dine UPtown. opened in 1990. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-298-4200. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere.
Chin’s. Chicken is the house specialty. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. For satisfying American favorites. serves fine steaks and seafood. % 702-693-5000. For a Latin taste. All five campgrounds have piped water. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. while moderately pricey. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard.400 feet. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. % 702-2984600. The elevation here ranges between 7. Fong’s. % 702-382-1644. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. Kyle Canyon. is the most popular Chinese place in town. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. % 702-384-4470. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. so be prepared for extreme weather. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. % 702-298-2242. Near the end of Nevada 157. Charleston. seven days a week. Phillip’s Supper House. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. call % 702-873-8800. % 702-794-0700. % 702-383-0007. Suite Z. % 702-873-5222. 308 West Sahara Avenue. which. having opened in 1932. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel.000 and 8. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. is the oldest restaurant in the city. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. serves hip. % 702-363-1921. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. The Green Shack. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. 2504 East Fremont. although the Lodge. as the name implies. For information. in the shadow of Mt. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. 4455 Paradise Road. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702733-8899. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. . 3900 Paradise Road.
Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. For information on all five locations. % 702-397-2088. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. Calville Bay has 80 sites. Las Vegas Territory . On the Virgin River to the north. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. For information. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. In Valley of Fire State Park. has room for 171 RVers and tenters.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. On the north shore. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. there’s Boulder Beach. To the east of Vegas. Moving north from Boulder City. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. call % 702-646-3401. Across the river from the Strip. % 520-7544606. north of town on Lake Mojave. % 520-754-3272.
In the winter. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. the city of Reno is the . the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. the largest alpine lake in North America. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. just east of the California-Nevada border. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. The Truckee River. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country.000 feet. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. and for good reason. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. Las Vegas. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. Of course. Reno. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. At the heart of this region. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. Rose resorts. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. Heavenly and Mt. With a surface elevation of more than 7.
almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. are walks back in time. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. Farther south. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. 8. Pyramid Lake. North of Pyramid Lake. an ancient. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. The Carson River. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. Just south of Carson City. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. Farther east of Carson City. Today this mirage-come-true. . meanwhile. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. Washoe Lake State Park. where everyone expects Ben. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. which meanders – sometimes wet. Fort Churchill. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. About 30 miles north of Reno. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. on the shores of Washoe Lake. The place dates back to 1851. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful.
North Virginia Street. From Carson City. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. Like Vegas. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. for a schedule. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. From here. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. % 800-FOR-RENO.H. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. there isn’t a glass pyramid. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. From Reno. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. In 1863. No. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe.W. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. and in 1859 C. which hosts special events in warmer months. H. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . In 1852. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. the city continues to grow rapidly. or at least slow. the latter beginning in Wadsworth.
the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. From a historical point of view. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. . this is it. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop.
the campus of the University of Nevada.) The Wilbur D. About 10 minutes north of the university. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. The Nevada Historical Society. 1265 Deerlodge Road. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. % 702-334-2600. Great Basin Adventure. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. houses a theater and telescope. turn right. On the suburban south side of Reno. To get there. is also located here. When arms get tired. On the northern outskirts of the city. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. (See below under On Foot. % 702-969-3111. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. Reno-Tahoe Territory . 1650 North Virginia Street. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. the National Automobile Museum. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. houses one of the world’s best collections. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. Animal Ark Nature Center. is a well-known. % 702-333-9300. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. % 702-7855961. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. has been at that location since 1946. including black bears and kit foxes. 10 South Lake Street. April through October. % 702-688-1190. but call first for hours. On the north side of the city. 300 North Center Street. May Museum and Arboretum. The staff welcomes visitors daily. % 702-788-3773. % 702784-4812. boasts three treasures. a nifty historical theme park. And the Keck Minerals Museum. 1502 North Washington Street. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. % 702-784-4528. Fleischmann Planetarium.
% 800-654-7037. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. Canadian Airlines. Greyhound Lines. % 800-654-3131. No Stress Express. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. TriStar Airlines. % 702-328-6400. Budget. % 800-241-6522. Hertz. % 800-453-9417. % 800-218-8777. % 800-367-2277. Alaska Airlines. % 800-CAR-RENT. % 800-435-9792. Airlines Air 21. Enterprise. % 800-221-1212. If you don’t have a car. % 702-882-3375. Lloyd’s International. America West Airlines. % 800-4-SHUTTL. % 800-225-2525. Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-527-0700. Northwest Airlines. % 800-221-2000. Reno Air. TWA. National. % 800-231-2222. % 800-736-6247. Thrifty. Delta Air Lines. United Airlines. K-T Services. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-325-8007. % 800-426-7000. Avis. % 800-800-4000. . Dollar. % 800-235-9292. Southwest Airlines. % 800-359-2472.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-331-1212.
The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. NV 89505. In reality. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. control erosion and acquire open land. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. All told. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. 98 Colony Road. 405 Marsh Avenue. trees and sky. At press time. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . Reno. but the future of the Basin itself. is a study in contrast. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. provides an interesting mix of adventures. year-round outdoor playgrounds. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. % 702-686-3030. rock. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. Reno. a marvelous intermingling of water. restore forest and watersheds. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. % 702-329-2936. 4590 South Virginia Street. the waters are now finding friends in high places. respectively. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. In 1861. in his journal Roughing It. % 800-FOR-RENO. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. local. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. NV 89502. Fortunately. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
) Up the twisting NV 431. % 702-849-2511. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. Viewed from the highway. at 10. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. restrooms and picnic areas. with its full slate of running water. % 702-831-0691. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. open May through November. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Three miles south of Incline Village. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. under On Foot. But in between them. The beaches are open daily. The north end of the beach. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. is a welcome respite. (See below. stands out amid the pines. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. % 702-831-0494. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. Reno-Tahoe Territory . The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake.50 for adults.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side.50 for kids. $5. After the buzz of the ranch. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore.776 feet. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. along the eastern shoreline. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. called Diver’s Cove. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. is well-known to snorkelers. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. The park. Admission is $8.
n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. canoeing. 96151. South Lake Tahoe. Sailing. Stateline. horseback riding. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. a nature trail circles the lake. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. (See below. also offers excursions. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. % 702588-3000. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. PO Box 7139. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. under On Snow. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. under On Snow). NV 89449. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. under Adventures and Accommodations. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . (See below.50 per adult. PO Box 16299. At Tahoe Village. % 702588-3508. For information. % 702-588-4591. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. $6 per child.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. Every summer.) For the unmechanized. condos. This is the home port of the Dixie II. The price for such sloth is $10.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. The day-use fee is $5. Booming in the winter (see below. restaurants. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. % 916-583-9048. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. % 800-AT-TAHOE.250 feet in five minutes. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. CA. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. offices and shops. May through November. then into the broad Washoe Valley. No bottles are allowed on the beaches.
a hunt that lasted 20 years. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. was hit a year later in Virginia City. the boom rolled in at full throttle. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. The original owners. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-849-0201. the mansion and all its furnishings. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. the world’s largest silver strike. camping and hiking (see below. % 702-687-4319. windsurfing. off NV 429. In November. During the wet season. Washoe Lake covers about 3. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. under Adventures. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. one mile south of Washoe City. pages 83. About 30 miles south of Reno. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. When the Comstock Lode. boating. 1851. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts.000 acres. 87 and 98). (See below. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. eventually lost their silver fortune. The park’s centerpiece. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. About 15 miles south of Reno. Camping. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. and on weekends between May and October. Washoe Lake. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother.” On Halloween in 1864. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. site of Washoe Lake State Park. US 395 slides southwest. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. Bowers Mansion. Bowers Mansion County Park. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West.
Admission is $3. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. Unlike most Western capitals. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. Call for schedules and pick-up points. exhibits of native fauna. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. 100 Stewart Street. Headquartered in nearby Minden. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. % 702-687-4810. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. Just east of the Capitol. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. the Capitol is open daily. % 702-884-3450. It’s so open. The library contains the original state constitution. % 702687-5030. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. which was opened in 1886. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. Open Monday through Friday. excepting state holidays. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. The Capitol Building & Museum.” In fact. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. 600 North Carson Street. yearround. the Nevada State Library & Archives. 101 North Carson Street. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. . in fact. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. Located in the Carson City Mint building. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. % 702-687-5160. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits.
The Stewart Indian Museum. The St. Charles-Muller Hotel. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. Two blocks north. 302 South Carson Street. The Roberts House Museum. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery.50. % 702-882-1808. 448 West King Street. Admission is $2. 813 North Carson Street. the Carson City Brewing Company. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. % 702-826-2766. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. 1207 North Carson Street. The Orion Clemens House. $2 for kids. Admission is $4 for adults. Roughing It. The staff can provide trail maps. The building now houses a live theater. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. Admission is $2. 502 North Division Street. That classic journal. 2180 South Carson Street. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). Visitors can ride daily during summer months. % 702-887-2174. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. % 702-687-6953. Samuel. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. % 702-884-2226. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. and Bender House (1874). Bliss Mansion. train rides are extra. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . 5366 Snyder Avenue. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. The museum is filled with period furniture. % 702-883-1976. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. was named for its original occupant. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. On the suburban south side of Carson City. books and permits for the surrounding area. The office is closed Sundays. 1536 South Carson Street.
. The museum is open daily. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. As of presstime. Before the school closed in 1980. Genoa Bar. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. saunas. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. % 702-782-4325. weight room and tennis courts year-round. Walley’s. at the foot of the Carson Range. Up the street. 2001 Foothill Road. May through October. lies Genoa.000 students had walked its halls. where he is buried. NV 89701. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. % 702-782-8155. to Genoa. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. now long gone. first opened to tourists in 1862. the first permanent white settlement in the state. The place saw Nevada’s first house. The roots go back to 1851. California. Daily admission is $12. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. Guests can enjoy the water. 3. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. % 702-687-7410. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. opened in 1863. 1900 South Carson Street. Across the street. May through October. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. Carson City. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station.
and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. Gardnerville in 1879. Just down US 395. including Western art and portraiture. % 702-782-3133. Their riches. Minden was founded in 1904. a 1. boxing memorabilia. Virginia City. where it intersects with NV 341. 1477 Highway 395. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. % 702-266-3343.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. their sweat. about eight miles south of Carson City. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. of all places. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. circus items. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. 1440 Highway 395. The otherwise barren hills. Leaving Carson City.200acre beauty set at 5. About three miles south of Gardnerville. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. resting precariously . valleys. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. and their spirit built the Silver State. which climbs up a narrow. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. Housed in the 1915 high school building. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. % 702-782-2555. Finally. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. In Gardnerville. the highway hits Topaz Lake. Beyond NV 341.
. Today. The building is open daily. Admission is $3. May through October. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. At the south end of town. Not recommended for claustrophobes. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. underground mine tours. and within four years. % 702-847-0757. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. The Comstock Lode had been struck. The Marshall Mint Museum. leave regularly. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. Up C Street. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM.000 a ton in silver. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. more than 15. Admission prices range from donations to $3. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. Here. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. % 702847-0975. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. is a looming. % 702-847-0777.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim.000 lived in Virginia City. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair.
Admission is $2. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. The memory of Samuel Clemens. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. a room in the basement of a saloon. complete with ornate chandeliers. Admission is $2. % 702-8470333. The headstones and gravesites. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. % 702-847-9394. After she was murdered in 1867.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. Mark Twain’s Memories. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. windswept plateau. % 702-847-0454. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September.50. including an old jukebox and player pianos. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. The Way It Was Museum. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. The Mark Twain Museum. 3. for a ride into yesterday. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. Its extravagant interior. % 702847-0275. is definitely not for the puritan. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. Finally. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. June through October.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. % 702-8470830. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. lives on in two buildings. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. % 702-847-0525. % 702-847-0766. Open daily. has a more eclectic collection. is open daily.
but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. or mustangs. little more than a few walls remain. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. then exit at NV 445. The Byway’s terminus. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. wild horses. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. % 702-673-1150. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. appears in Palomino Valley. Today. After about eight miles. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. Past the intersection with NV 431. % 702-577-2345. After another 20 miles. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. There is also a developed campground. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. number about 30. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . including Odeon Hall. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. Fort Churchill State Historic Park.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. % 702-847-0311. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park.
or dry lake bed. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. site of the ranger station. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. % 702-547-0187. campground. Camping. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. Spreading north and east. Today. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. according to artifacts found in local caves. If losing yourself is your goal. Fremont. continues to surround the lake. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. this is the place to do it – unless. of course. thus christening the 27-mile-long. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. Another 25 miles north via paved. since at least 9. They will provide directions and hours of operation. Nearby. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness.000 BC. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. % 702-476-1156. Tribe members administer recreation activities. boating and fishing are extra. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. store and museum. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . A reservation was formalized in 1874. boat ramp. the road passes Wino. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui.182 feet) to the west. the world’s largest playa. Just north of the marina. From Nixon. nine-mile-wide watering hole. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here.
caution and common sense are key to traveling. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. % 503-947-3315. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. and carry enough water. Help can be a long way away. . then head north 31 miles to NV 140. TAKE CARE In this region. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. Again. tow chain. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. on 575. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. about one mile south of NV 140.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. birds of prey. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. songbirds. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. A shovel. spare tire. preparedness is imperative. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. even with one. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. Besides antelope.
% 702-782-2211. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. bills itself as the “Wildest. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. The Way It Was Rodeo. In Carson City. Carson Valley Days. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. water. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. % 702-353-2291. is a rip-snortin’ affair. % 702-847-0311.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. % 702-265-5281. % 702-882-1283. % 702-329-7469. % 702-588-6211. % 702-329-3877. heats up. with food. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-883-1352. % 702-882-1802. In Reno. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. a rolling custom car show. % 800-FOR-RENO. In Virginia City. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. % 702-829-1955. % 702-588-9658. % 702-687-7410. % 702-882-1808. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. % 702-782-2444. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. In Gardnerville. is held in Sparks. Night Curves. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. Richest Rodeo in the West. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. % 702-847-7500. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. Reno also .
climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. is held in Reno. % 702-688-5767. In the skies. takes place in Carson City. % 702-972-6663. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. come to Virginia City along with a parade. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. attracts American Indians from many Western states.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. and the Nevada Day Parade. a sort of post-modern. % 702-786-5700. . and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. In Incline Village. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. the Native American Snow Dance. The Great Italian Festival. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. deconstructionist Woodstock. % 702-329-1476. September The famous International Camel Races. and the National Championship Air Races. % 702-827-7603. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. % 702-329-7469. On the Black Rock Desert. the notorious Burning Man Festival. gather in Minden. the Nevada State Fair. % 702-885-6939. % 702-832-1606. % 800-535-3045. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. % 702-782-9711. % 702-826-1181. % 702-847-0311. % 702-882-1565. Street Vibrations.
crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. crosses Jones Creek and turns right.12a opportunities. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. 1994. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. all 5. . After crossing Galena Creek. At the five-mile mark. however. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. then climbs to a saddle.11a). Farther south.14a). whips around a peak. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. including Jello Wars (5.000 feet. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. are more chilling than the mountain air.11d) and Slayer (5. so dress appropriately.11c and heavier. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. There are more than 20 routes. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. There are 10 routes. Overhangs present experts with 5. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. including Asylum (5. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village.11a and 5. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. Falcon Press Publishing. then climbs in earnest toward the peak.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile.
% 702-6881893. including great blue herons and birds of prey. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley.260 feet. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. This hike is certainly strenuous. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. climbing 3. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. so call first.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. After another mile. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. Hours are seasonal. Customized walking and driving tours are also available.300 feet in just six miles.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. as are group tours. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. % 702-847-WALK. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. Since the slide. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. The trail ends at a highway. NV 431. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. The charge for adults is $12. for children $5. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. elevation 8. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. offers a beautiful willow. .
winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. . Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. great horned owls and other birds of prey. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. For road conditions and closures. The trail. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. is a good overnight point. From here. % 916-279-6101. As this is being written. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. Yellow Hills East. For more information. Mahogany Mountain. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. Oakland. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. OR 97441. Madras. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. write them at PO Box 20991. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. Stevens Camp. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. CA 94620. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. contact the BLM. For more information. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. For travel information. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. as are 7. To reach the trailhead. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast.
Reno. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. On the east side of the reservoir. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. . % 702-851-1924. 3335 Vista Boulevard. PO Box 6145. % 702-623-1500. A steep. but they might also offer their services to hikers. % 702-322-9559. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. NV 89502. % 702-746-6878. NV 89436. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. Bighorn Outfitting. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. #111. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Incline Village. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. backpackers and photographers. Nevada Guide Service. Denio Junction. The lakes. Look for the Knott Creek sign. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. 20 Daylily Court. to the soaring summit at 9. Patagonia Outlet. 8550 White Fir Street.397 feet. % 702-333-6795. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. jogs through alpine meadows. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Silver State Outfitters. NV 89511. % 702-626-6916. gaining 2. terminus of the fairly flat.200 lung-burning feet. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. Sparks. 490 Kietzke Lane. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. % 702-832-5231. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. NV 89450. Reno. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. Outdoor Adventures. 1135 Terminal Way. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left.
% 702588-5664. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. % 702884-3453. After about three miles. % 702-885-7773. 1201 Highway 395. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. Strictly Scuba & More. In the highlands near Mount Rose. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. 4339 South Carson Street. Twin City Surplus. Sporting Rage. % 702-849-0570. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. % 702-3584824. In all four cases. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. also rents horses. Vogl Trek USA. 4375 South Carson Street. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. Zephyr Cove Stables. which parallels North Canyon Creek. % 702-831-5465. offers ranch day trips. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. Near Washoe Lake State Park. the trail makes a high-altitude.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. Sierra Spirit Ranch. % 702-849-9651. % 702-8252855. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. and offers picnic rides. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. contact Tin Cup Adventures. 155 East Moana Lane. % 702-849-1020. % 702-8827779. 1675 East 4th Street.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. Sierra Mountaineer. 1941 North Carson Street. % 702782-7011. call first for availability and directions. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. % 702-323-5630.
The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. don’t screw it up. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. The half-paved. depending on point of view. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. . Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. north of Pyramid Lake. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. or ends. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. to Vya. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. For detailed maps. From here. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). 84 miles back to Gerlach. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. Put simply. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. % 916-279-6101. % 702-831-0494. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. Continuing northwest on NV 447.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. To complete the loop. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. and they must yield the right-of-way to both.
89502. Reno Schwinn. % 702-8871333. 89502. Excell Skates. winter and spring. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. 500 North Carson Street. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. 1999 South Virginia Street. % 702-825-8258. 89701. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. call % 702-688-1500. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. 89502. Bicycle Warehouse. 4135 South Virginia Street. 89509. 89701. % 702-3226001. Bobo’s Ski Shop. % 702786-5111. For more information. 1987 North Carson Street. 89502. along with Canada geese in fall. % 702827-3277.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. Falcon Press Publishing. also known as NV 206. % 702826-0800. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. 89532. & According to Jeanne L. % 702883-3210. 1200 South Wells Avenue. % 702-747-1413. Bike Brothers. 3450 Lakeside Drive. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. 235 East Plumb Lane. Great Basin Bicycles. south of Carson City. . 1993.
kingfishers. California. 89423. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. Entrance fee is $3 per car. On the Nevada side. personal water craft and kayaks. coyotes. Contact the US Forest Service. red-tailed hawks. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. During spring and early summer. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. rents powerboats. offers 1. canoes. % 702-8825007. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. 1685 Highway 395 South.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. The trip. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. cutthroat and rainbows. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. 89701. via NV 88 and CA 89. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. . 625 Fairview Drive. % 702782-0867.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. % 702-588-3369. which can take up to seven hours. Nevada. six miles south of Gardnerville. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. Spooner Lake. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. PO Box 3007. 89450. turkey vultures. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe.
The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. For directions. but in wet years. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. both on the eastern shore. % 702-6874319. and charges a launching fee. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. two to three miles up a steep trail. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. only a mile west of downtown. Idlewilde Park. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. catfish and trout. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. thanks to Sierra runoff. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. The smaller. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. However. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. although . For the stalwart anglers. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. There are two boat ramps. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. with campground and restrooms. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. water levels. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. For moving-water anglers. are regularly stocked with rainbows. For more adventurous angling. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. planting and licensing information. A better option might be Ophir Creek. % 702-688-1500.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. Washoe Lake State Park.
crappie and perch. Rainbow. There are two boat ramps on the lake. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. the setting here is primative. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. % 702-688-1500. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. boasts a handful of isolated spots. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. Camping is primitive. Nevada Angler’s Guide. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. under Outfitters. Boats with outboards are permitted. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. however. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. while rainbow. a health advisory is still in effect. More than 100 years later. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. used to separate gold and silver from ore. Come prepared. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. For more information. The reservoir is located on private land. . In his book. see below.
PO Box 815. 294 East Moana Lane. PO Box 6506.. 490 Kietzke Lane. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. NV 89431. % 702-322-9559. PO Box 10225. equally divided among novice. 96145. Don’s Fishing Charters. Sparks. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. 155 East Moana Lane. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. Zephyr Cove. PO Box 1909.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. Reno. intermediate and advanced. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. With a base elevation of 8. The Gilly. Tahoe Topliners. CA. % 916-546-4444. % 702-825-2855. % 916-541-5448. 89502. NV 89449. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. NV 89502. Snowboarders are welcome. % 702-358-6113. NV 89448. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. % 702-827-0600. Stateline. rentals and a shuttle bus. Zephyr Cove. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. . Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. % 702-588-4916. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. NV 89448. Mount Rose also offers lessons. Reno. Tahoe City.440 vertical feet of runs. % 916573-0753. NV 89502. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides.260 feet. Reno Fly Shop.
This is a monster of a mountain. % 702-7823047. all-terrain skis. Heavenly. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays.500 feet).90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort.000 to 9. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. trail pass) is $34. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). rentals. % 702-831-8361. rentals. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. For cross-country fans. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee.800) and the highest top elevation (10. . $8 after 3 PM). who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. with the longest vertical drop (3. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. the greatest acreage (4. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. Snowboarders are welcome. a new gondola and the famous tram. Incline Village. Lessons. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. skate skis. lesson. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. six surface lifts. Diamond Peak. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. and/or snowshoes. 89451.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. 1210 Ski Way. Heavenly has 18 chairs. lesson. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. day tours and amateur races. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. Lessons.000 feet above sea level. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. not to mention great views of the lake. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. which include a pass. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. and rental. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. % 702-749-5349. NV. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7.840 feet. lessons. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced.
89502. 1200 South Wells Avenue. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. % 702-849-0111. % 702-8269096. % 702782-0867. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 89451. Galena Ski Rentals. 515 East Moana Lane. Snowind Sports. 321 Sky Way. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. 89451. % 702-588-5935. 209 Kingsbury. 89502. Sundance Ski Company. 89451. C&J Flight Aviation. % 702-786-2020. % 702-3226001. South Lake Tahoe. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89502. % 702786-5111. In Reno. 89502. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. 89502. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 702831-3500. % 702-358-4824. 89502. Stateline House of Ski. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702-831-2922. Excell Skates. % 702-786-7071. 1685 Highway 395 South. 89502. Mogul Mouse. 2615 Mill Street. 235 East Plumb Lane. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. Serva Ski. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. % 702-831-3537. 140 Vesta Street. 89502. % 702-329-5358. % 702-3239463. of- . % 916-544-1221. 2500 East 2nd Street. Sierra Mountaineer. 89423. CA 96151. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. PO Box 19215. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport.
on this site since 1944. Lake Village Vacations. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. has 740 rooms. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers.. offers 534 rooms. . $$$-$$$$. Harvey’s Resort. also features condo accommodations. of course. the Sierras and. $$$$. $$$-$$$$.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. % 702-588-8571. Harrah’s. The Douglas County Airport. has two. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. High Country Soaring. poolside service. $$$-$$$$. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. % 800-635-0066. $$$-$$$$. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. three.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. a dance club. Lake Tahoe. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. Tahoe Summit Village. 398 US 50. $$$$$$$. eight restaurants. % 702-784-4944. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. % 800-648-3353. % 800-427-8397. % 800-6483773. % 800-99-RIDGE.
lawn games. $$$-$$$$. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. The Zephyr Cove Resort. 593 North Dyer Circle. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. % 800-624-7980. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. with more than 1. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. $$. % 800-322-7723. as well as a gym with instructor on site. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. which serves free continental breakfast. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. the Cal-Neva Resort. $-$$. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline.700 rooms on 38 floors. Today. combines great views. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. 210 North Center Street. % 800- . $$-$$$. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. Harrah’s. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. % 800-731-6222. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. Among the downtown locations. The Haus Bavaria B&B. A perennial four-star winner. 24 Highway 28. % 800-225-6382. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. has 33 rooms. 407 North Virginia Street. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. 2 Stateline Road. first-class.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. 111 Country Club Drive. % 800-824-6391. $$-$$$. $$-$$$$. % 702-588-6644. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. a rustic feel. % 702-8321234. $$.$$-$$$$. % 702-831-0287. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. % 800-687-8733. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. $$$. As in Las Vegas. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis.
most notably the Days Inn. welcomes bargain hunters. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. % 800-622-1890. 3131 South Virginia Street. Charles Hotel. convention facilities and some impressive suites. is a three-story. Circus Circus. boasts nearly 600 rooms. The St. an owner-built. $$. which overlooks the state government center. The Atlantis. 500 North Sierra Street. $$. $$. a heated pool and other amenities.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. 310 South Carson Street. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. $$$$. % 702-825-7134. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. . $$-$$$. Nearby. two heated pools and a hair salon. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. % 702-786-4070. % 800-282-2444. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. $. % 800-937-1436. $$. Motel 6. the Motel 6. $. $$$. has more than 1. has a heated pool. Freeway convenient. 600 South Carson Street. including a barber shop. $$$. 345 North Virginia Street. It has more than 1. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. 1100 Nugget Avenue. Rates start at $195 per night. % 702-8821887. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. the new Peppermill. % 800-320-0627. 2707 South Virginia Street. the Eldorado. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. 3575 South Virginia Street. % 800-648-1177. free airport shuttle and skier rates.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. % 702-827-0255. and Vagabond Inn. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. 1901 South Virginia. $$. 710 West Robinson Street. 701 East 7th Street. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino.000 rooms. which features theme rooms. $$. % 702-358-1080. $$. % 800-723-6500. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. % 800-723-6500. % 702-882-3643. $$-$$$. Away from downtown. $$. % 800-648-5966.
% 702-782-7644. 1431 Ezell Street. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. $-$$. the inn was built in 1872 by A. % 702-847-0111. $$. 907 South Carson. Pratt. #800-628-7831. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. There are 13 rooms. $. and a casino. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. two with private baths. % 702-882-3046. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. $-$$. It has four rooms. % 702-8825535. $$. % 702-782-9711. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. 1540 Main Street. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. is the center of the action. % 800-962-0732. $$$. $$-$$$. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. and Pioneer. 8 South F Street.C. 1627 US 395. has five rooms. $$. The Chollar Mansion. . some with kitchenettes. 300 Main Street. 2332 Main Street. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. $$. % 702-782-5697. 11 with private baths. $-$$. The motel has 40 rooms. % 702-847-0521. $$$. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. % 702-557-2220. generic motels abound in Carson City. $$-$$$. 1979 US 395. $-$$. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. was built in the late 1800s. 2001 Foothill Road. $$$. 180 Nixon Street. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. It has four rooms. The Crooked House. % 702-782-8720. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. 565 South D Street. for weary wanderers. % 702-847-9777. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. 1643 US 395. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. including the small Genoa House Inn. % 702-782-7075. 1435 US 395. % 800-321-6983. 800 North Carson.
The Chart House. also run the gamut with delis. % 702-588-2411. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. no TVs and. Open for dinner only. Reservations are recommended. % 702-588-6611. 1200 Razorback Road. Open for dinner only. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. ethnic food and full buffets. try the Glory Hole. $. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. is a rousing pub with good food. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. % 702-323-3200. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. coffee shops. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. Ichiban. including a seafood and oyster bar. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. % 702-825-1250. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. . % 702-827-4111. % 702-786-1323. 3127 South Virginia Street. 328 Kingsbury Grade. % 702-323-5550. the menu changes every two months. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. Famous Murphys. along with Caesars Tahoe. of course. % 702-588-6276. 4201 West 4th Street. 3065 West 4th Street. seasonal ingredients.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. the lake’s first casino. serves fresh Japanese steak. The restaurant also does its own baking. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. Steak. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. 210 North Sierra Street. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. % 702-941-0371. The place has 14 rooms. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. The French cuisine is made with fresh. The hotels. a casino.
offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. this is the place. 1301 North Carson Street. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. one of the top Italian eateries in country. 4389 South Carson Street. % 702-356-3300. El Charro Avitia. the Eldorado. % 702-785-7000. dinner only on weekends. 1540 Main Street. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. % 702-883-6261. South of the city center and south of the border. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. 507 North Carson Street. % 702-348-9297. There is also an extensive wine list. % 702-882-4556. . Boasting a large Italian menu. Adele’s. 255 North Sierra Street. serves fine French cuisine. and Peppermill. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. % 702-882-0486. Heidi’s. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-882-3353. % 702882-1626. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. % 702786-5700. % 702-847-0111. seafood and steak. % 702-689-7226. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. The Carson Nugget Steak House. % 702-8835100. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. 234 North Virginia. Two blocks away. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. % 702-8262121. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. Silvana’s. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. 2707 South Virginia Street. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. 1112 North Carson Street. 1020 North Carson Street. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. 402 East William Street.
. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. Set at 8. Mount Rose has running water. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. call % 702266-3343. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. for more information. % 702-687-4319. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. For information and fees. Nightly fees are $6. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. The nightly fee is $5. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. On the Nevada side. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. 1300 West 2nd Street. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. nine for RVs. office of the BLM. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. some for RVs and some for tents. 2500 East 2nd Street. California. the campground has 54 sites and running water. Open May through October. Showers are available. % 916-279-6101.900 feet. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. including Virgin Valley. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. Reno RV Park. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. Big Spring Reservoir. % 702-322-2281. Rates run about $18 per night. lies south of the river. The overnight fee is $7. the campground has 24 sites. Simply wonderful. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. % 702-789-2000. % 702-8822766. There are 44 campsites here. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. Open June through September. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. % 916-573-2600. Call the Cedarville. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. The overnight rate is $12. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. % 702-323-3381. 735 Mill Street. which straddles the Nevada-California border. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429.
Joseph. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. carrying only a pistol. Beginning in April 1860. Want ads called for “Young. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. Missouri. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. 1861. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community.. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. pausing only long enough to change mounts. skinny. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures..” Riders. On October 24. willing to risk death daily. Orphans preferred. Bible and mail pouch. Incredibly.Pony Express Territory vada. California. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. the gutsy riders. tore between stations. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. wiry fellows not over eighteen. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. and Sacramento.
In the higher mountains. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. this area has plenty to offer. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. But if you consider solitude.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. so be prepared for anything. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. As might be expected. . Ranging in elevation from 3. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. ridges and valleys in the country. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. glacier-carved peaks. spans some of the most beautiful. there is excellent skiing. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. Near the town of Ely. Great Basin. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. hiking and wildlife viewing. Just a few hours from Ely.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. % 702-867-3500. pelicans. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles.000 people. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. 1050 South Maine Street. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. In recent years. (See On Water. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. Admission is free. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. below. % 702-423-5128. . January through March. Sunday. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. Over 14.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. canvasbacks.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. With 10. April through December. % 702-423-3677. In peak years. green-winged teals. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. snowy plovers. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. 1000 Auction Road.000 years. peregrine falcons. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. covers 77.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. White-faced ibis.000 photographic images. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. the refuge shelters upwards of 350.
and “management” means hunting. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. At press time.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. is the artist in residence here. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. Every spring. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. Over 8. More than 21. which features the famous Blue Angels. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. The hunting season usually opens in October. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets.000 years ago. On the south end of town. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. Adam Fortunate Eagle.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. Just east of town. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. Pony Express Territory . About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. Just off the highway are two short trails. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces.
Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. listen for the mountain’s “singing. geology and history of the region. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. % 702-423-2544. wild West. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. % 702-423-4556. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. the low. roars and moans. volcanic cliffs around it. NV 89406. fauna. Near the station. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. Fallon. about three miles past West Gate. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. A hike to the precipice is a safe. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. but strenuous. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. NV 89406. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort.” meaning sword. 100 Campus Way. dark. Fallon. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). If the roar of engines ever dies down. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site.” Booms. 379 West William Avenue. . one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. regularly emanate from the dune.
picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. Spencer’s Hot Springs. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. PO Box 1149. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. NV 89310. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. 13 miles east of Austin. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. Austin is a quiet. population about 300.350 feet. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. then climbs again to Austin. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. then to paved NV 376. NV 89045.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. Round Mountain. % 702-964-2200. past Bob Scott campground. As always. Austin. PO Box 212. Six miles later. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below).577 feet. Three miles later. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. % 702-964-2145. However the rush began. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. the boom was followed by the bust. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce.
are open to visitors just off the road. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. . Use caution here and stay out of the pool. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. % 702635-4000. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse.000 years ago. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. NV 89310. There is also a free campground here. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. At mile 30.500 years ago. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. experienced cavers only. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. After merging with Lower Mine Road. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. A long. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. % 702-964-2200. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. The hill is located on private land. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. near Pete’s Summit. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. A series of safe. PO Box 1420. At mile 55. is recommended for serious. Battle Mountain. Austin. NV 89820. PO Box 212. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. The limestone cavern. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip.
are still a major facet of the local economy. NV 89316. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. The building. completed in 1880 and still in use today. Still. however.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. The state’s No. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. Eureka’s population of 9. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. but most definitely worth a gander. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. Not until five years later. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. found in the valleys around Eurkea. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. Eureka. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. Gold mines.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. % 702-237-5484. But by 1890 the rush was over. some a little less gloriously than others. dates from 1877.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. and the Jackson House Hotel. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. Eureka. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. By 1878. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. The shell of the building. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. PO Box 14.
Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. Eureka. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. Entering town at night . n Ely Back on US 50. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike.000 feet. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. Pronounced EE-lee. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. US 50 rolls across basin and range. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM.500 residents. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. this mini-city (population about 5. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. Monday through Friday and by appointment. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. A few miles farther south. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Situated at 9. % 702-237-5484. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. PO Box 14. NV 89316. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes.
head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. The White Pine Public Museum. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. Pony Express Territory . which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. showers and hiking trails. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. Since they went cold in the 1880s. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. located on East 11th Street. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. % 702-2894710. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. On the other side of town. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. as well as an original. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. depot. Return to US 50. There is primitive camping here. NV 89301. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. accessories. engine house. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. depart on selected dates from May through September. former First Lady Pat Nixon. PO Box 150040. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. Tours of the railroad yard. Call for exact dates and times. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. East Ely. furniture. a bicycle.300 feet. The museum. Admission is free. clothing. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. 2000 Aultman Street. like many museums in this territory. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. running water.50 per person. % 702-728-4467. % 702-289-2085. Prices start at $10 per person. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM.
one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. contact the Ely office of the BLM. untamed backcountry. While hikers are welcome. Bristlecone Convention Center.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. In 1922. % 702-289-4865. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. Most of the 77.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. In the 1950s a . It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. sometimes by the hundreds.000 people a year visit the park. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. Designated a national park in October. % 800496-9350. 636 Aultman Street.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. 1986. % 702-289-8877. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. From Baker. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. % 702-234-7331. a proposal to create a 6. That leads quickly to Baker. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. 150 6th Street. Only about 70. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. For more information.
Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. then head straight out of the park. limited to 30 people at a time. ski resorts and tramways. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. Congress settled on 77. Tours of the cavern. draperies.000 to 44. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. below. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. . are held every day except Thanksgiving.067-foot Wheeler Peak. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads.086-acre Great Basin National Park. are hard to beat. among others. Finally.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. flowstone and soda straws. While celebrating a victory. Prices are $4 for adults. or speleotherms: stalactites. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. Baker. (See On Foot and Camping. Call ahead for conditions. the park’s crown jewel. which is actually one huge cavern.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. % 702-234-7331. NV 89311-9702. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. $3 for juniors. The high-altitude campgrounds. Christmas and New Year’s Day. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. And even if the invasive livestock were banned.000. too. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. columns.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. in 1986. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. stalagmites. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction.
True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. or use paved NV 376. Millet Ranch. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes.000 feet. Set at 7. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead.600 feet. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. a few of which are even of gem quality. Drive three miles to the recreation area. which has picnic tables and shade trees. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. are spessartite. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. . along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. South Toiyabe Peak. The garnets found here. Tierney Creek. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. % 702-9642671. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. To reach Garnet Hill. Arc Dome. Carvers NW. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. Bakeoven Creek. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. to reach the village of Kingston. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area.
To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. is marked with trailhead signs.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. windswept paths. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. 1. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. From the trailhead/parking area. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. % 702-289-3031 for more information. which may be impassable when wet.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. as well as all the water you will need. set aside in 1989. If threatening clouds approach. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. leave the high country immediately.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. The wilderness. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. with many trails climbing above 10. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. headache. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. nausea.000-acre. Baker. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. After about 10 miles of hiking. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. Pony Express Territory . This is some serious highcountry hiking. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. which heads west toward the peak. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. and Mount Moriah. which at 12. a unique.000 feet along rocky. The trail ends just before the summit.
The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. the six-mile . From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. To reach the summit. Continue straight. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges.063 feet. the last 1. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. In 1878.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. the views of the 8. then descends to Teresa Lake. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. or cirque. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. Use extreme caution here. Finally. then turn left again. This is another depression etched by a glacier. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. At 13. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. The bowl. If it is safe to venture to the peak.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way.
backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail.700 feet in the first seven miles. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. once the site of some mining activity. Return the way you came. Turn left. To return to the trailhead. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. just off to the east. Around mile six. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. this is a nice overnight stop. . The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks.950 years. Wheeler Peak. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. After about three miles. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. To continue the loop hike. Kious Spring. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. In good weather. subalpine conditions. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive.926-foot Pyramid Peak. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. Lehman Caves.
sells camping and outdoor equipment. 89301. % 702-423-6171. is worth a gander. 5030 Reno Highway. As of presstime. 1707 Rice Road. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. a quartermile. Wendover George A. J & P Auto Parts. % 702-289-4468. 89301. 3125 Stark Lane. 2005 Harrigan Road. 701 Avenue F. 89406. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. 89406. 89301. % 702423-9215. Flying M Stables. 1050 Aultman Street. Daum. HCR 33. 203 Heritage Drive.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. 189 Aultman Street. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. White River Guide Service. . PO Box 34005. % 702-238-5232. 89883. % 702-664-2977. % 702-4239215. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. Burdick Guide Service. 89301. 89406. % 702-289-4208. % 702235-7439. Silver State Stables. % 800-874-0903. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. % 702-2893063. Box 33570. 89406. Sportsworld. Great Basin Inn. 89301. Wildlife West Guide Service. % 702-289-8886. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. PO Box 2560. 89301. 89406. HC 34. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. % 702-423-5185. % 702-867-3388.
then finally heads downhill to an intersection. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. PO Box 504. % 702-885-6000. For more information. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. NV 89310.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. Austin. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. NV 89310. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. For more information. % 702-964-2671. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. A 10-mile loop with a 1. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. population 300. The route runs north out of the canyon. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. Austin. Dune-buggy.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. the sixstory. brochures and campgrounds. one would think tiny Austin. PO Box 130. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. contact the BLM.000 per year. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes.
TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. past the US Forest Service station. % 702-234-7331. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. directions and road conditions. for maps. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. 1500 Aultman Street. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. From the pavement. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. % 702-289-8886. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. sells and services bicycles. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. and bring plenty of water. . one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. when the weather is dry.
surrounds a 10. Pony Express Territory . so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. In 1997. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. The trout limit is 10. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. Boat ramps are located in two spots. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. along with sportfishing. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. Lahontan State Recreation Area. % 702-688-1500. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. White crappie can be hooked March through May. where worms and corn are said to work best.
Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. via paved NV 376 and a three. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. % 702-289-4865. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. is one of the biggest places in town. % 702-289-4468. % 702-289-8886. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. % 702-289-3063. Great Basin Inn. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. J & P Auto Parts. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. 1500 Aultman Street. 1050 Aultman Street. 855 West Williams Avenue.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. 701 Avenue F. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. $-$$. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. A few chain HO TE L . If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. The Upper Reese River. % 702-423-6031. which feeds the lake. and one of the best bargains.
1830 West Williams Avenue. including the Comfort Inn. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. basic equipment. a heated pool and interior corridors. combines a B&B with a private. $. % 702-423-2194. which has 49 rooms. % 702-423-4648. The ranch. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. $$. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. try Jackson House B&B. 25 North Taylor Street. $-$$. The red brick structure was built in 1877. % 702-423-5554. the Budget Inn. $-$$. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. % 702-423-5151. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. The Nevada Belle Motel. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. called Main Street as it runs through town. $. the Pony Express House. % 702-964-2471. meals and overnight accommodations.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. % 702-9642605. a heated pool and a small casino. The Sundown Lodge. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. which has 17 rooms.800 acres. which has 30 rooms. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. 70 East Williams Avenue. $-$$. the Lincoln Motel. Call for information. rates and directions. with 10 rooms. who really cares. also called Main Street here. $-$$. As you drive in from the west. 180 West Williams Avenue. Smith Creek Ranch. $-$$. is a modern. $. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. has 17 rooms. $-$$. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . but after a long day on the road. On the east end of town. For a real blast from the past. % 702-237-5577. while on the southern edge of town. % 702-237-5334. 1705 South Taylor Street. the 22-room Value Inn. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. % 702-423-2277. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. most of which are on US 50. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. $$$. instruction. has 21 rooms. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. which is north-south running US 95. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. % 702-237-5247. % 702-964-2698. has 27 rooms. $$$. % 702-964-2306. 115 Northwest Main Street. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. % 702-423-4254. The Eureka Motel. $$. It is open seasonally. and.
700 Avenue I. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. 701 Avenue I. The Bristlecone Motel. 500 High Street. is another living antique. 1101 Aultman Street.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. $. There are also private balconies. % 702-289-4497.300. % 702-237-9988. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. $-$$$. 1501 Avenue F. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. $-$$. and its twin. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. which has 19 rooms. $-$$. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. % 702289-6671. Ely With a population of more than 5. 501 Aultman Street. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. $-$$. 220 East 11th Street. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. 930 Aultman Street. has 21 rooms. $$-$$$. located on the south side of town off US 93. The inn is open June through September. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. the building was vacant 10 years later. % 702-289-8900. % 702-289-4747. $-$$. $$. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. % 702-289-8687. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. For a more genteel stay. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. % 702-289-6665. the inn has five rooms with private baths. % 702-289-8838. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. 770 Avenue O. % 702-289-4884. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. $-$$. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. $. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. For a more modern taste. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. 5th . which has 61 rooms. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. two-story hotel. % 702-2891234. After years of dormancy. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo.
and two others outside of Baker. $-$$. so call ahead for operating hours. % 702234-7323. 1301 Aultman Street. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. $. It is open June through August. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners.. Baker. the Border Inn. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. with its seven rooms. is a favorite spot for travelers. South of Baker at the national park boundary. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. % 702234-7300. $. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park.er. Behind the Silverjack. % 702-234-7323. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. and Whispering Elms RV Park. % 702-234-7267. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. % 702-237-7302. % 702-234-7272. % 702-289-3800. what with its 29 rooms. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. PO Box 90. $-$$. 150 4th Street. 24hour laundromat and showers. Utah. NV 89311. and the White Pine Motel. offers tipis and a campground. The Silverjack Motel. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. % 702-234-7343. which has a laundromat and showers. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. guided tours and off-road adventures. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. $.. $. even fast food joints are nonexistent. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. along with horseback riding. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. % 702-289-4411. . % 702-289-3033.
thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. 70 South Maine Street. is Fallon’s only coffee house. 4150 Reno Highway. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. % 702-423-3111. have been serving great burgers. The Mexican food at La Cocina. lunch and dinner. Café Nations. however. is home to The Diner. % 702-867-2769.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. % 702-423-5588. % 702423-6828. In 1929 and ’30. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. is also open for three squares a day. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. serves up steaks. 1560 West Williams Avenue. 875 West Williams Avenue. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. In the 1920s and ‘30s. % 702-964-9905. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Smack in the center of town. 960 Auction Road. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. % 702-423-3233. The International Café and Bar. including McDonald’s. Stockman’s Casino. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. specializing in omelets and steaks. % 702-964-2493. 125 South Maine Street. % 702-423-6166. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. 1955 McClean Road. Toiyabe Café. Tony’s. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. 1350 West Williams Avenue. The Depot Casino. is known throughout Fallon. including the few eateries. % 702-964-2220. Open for breakfast. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. % 702-423-2117. try Mary’s Owl . % 702-867-3750. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). Denny’s. If your mind is on pizza. The Fallon Nugget Casino. Kentucky Fried Chicken. Carol’s Country Kitchen. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare.
5787 Reno Highway. The Owl Club. Fallon RV Park. % 702-867-3636. % 702-867-2332. 2160 Aultman Street. is also open 24 hours a day. % 702-289-3033. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . 21. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. % 702-2289-3765. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. serves a fine steak sandwich. offers 45 sites. % 702-688-1500. Believe it or not. top sirloin steak and eggs. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. 211 5th Street. The Busy Bee Drive-In. West of Fallon. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. % 702-289-6665. 701 Avenue I. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. % 702-289-4888. might as well top it off in Eureka. Jerry Restaurant No. has 64 sites. % 702-237-5280. % 702-289-3313. and is attached to a bar. 1455 Aultman Street. The Fireside Inn. located three miles north of town on US 93.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. serving diner-style grub. where the restaurants are also along US 50. 562 Aultman Street. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. 501 Aultman Street. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. which features prime rib. 4800 Reno Highway. % 702-237-5356. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. however. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. Lahontan State Recreation Area. % 702-289-3905. % 702-964-2412. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. and Hubtotel RV Park. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. % 702-964-2627. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. % 702-237-5477. and Orient Express. % 702-289-4884. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting.
PO Box 1420. NV 89310. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. About nine miles south of Big Creek. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. PO Box 130.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. set at 7. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. Just east of the Eureka town limits. There are 15 sites. Austin. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. For more information and road conditions. Kingston Campground has 14 sites.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). Only six miles southwest of Ely. % 702-635-4000. NV 89820. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. as there are no services near the water. which are open June through September with running water. Open April to October. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 24 miles east of Austin. picnic tables and vault toilets. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. then go a mile to County Road 1059. Finally. To reach Bird Creek campground. After a few miles. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. North of Ely. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. Bob Scott Campground.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. No running water or firewood. None have running water. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. % 702-964-1011.500 feet. There is drinking water here. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. For information. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. grills. Austin RV Park. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. Battle Mountain. Just east of town. both off of US 50. along with campfire rings. % 702-964-2671.800 feet. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. where there are eight campsites set at 7.300 feet. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. There are 10 sites here . There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C.
The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. Ely. 350 8th Street. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. Pony Express Territory . The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. has 100 sites. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. 89301. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. Contact the visitors center. In the center of the park. % 702-289-4865. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive.530 feet. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. There are 30 sites here at 7. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. depending on weather conditions.886 feet. this is the only park campground open all year. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay.250 feet). The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs.300 feet. % 702-2893413. Set at 7. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. % 702-2893303. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. NV. In Great Basin National Park. and there are no showers. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station.752 feet. For more information.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. To reach the campground from US 50. Upper Lehman. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. The BLM. % 702-2893031. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. on US 93. and Valley View RV Park. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. % 702-234-7331. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. On the northern edge of the park. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles.
started pulling core samples.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border.700 years. humans.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. Desert bighorn sheep. who described them as “lowly old giants. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat.000 feet and more. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. Throughout history. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. call many parts of this high country home.000-year-old duck decoys. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. . reaching as high as 11. He found one living specimen dating back 4. not many of them stayed around very long. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. Named Methuselah. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. Edmund Schulman. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. the state animal. The short. the oldest living thing on earth. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. however. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. sagebrushcovered sea. Today in Cowboy Country.
Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. Elko headed the list of the 100 . In fact. The weather here can be as wild as the land. Carry good maps and a compass. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. lakes and reservoirs. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. streams. towns like Winnemucca. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. and know how to use them. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. In 1993. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout.000 years. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. Winter brings rain and snow. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. bikers and equestrians. Summers are generally hot and dry.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. bass and other gamefish. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands.
Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. This is a place where pick-up trucks. but thanks to new mining technology. But since the early days. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. both held in Elko. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. took to sheepherding. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. followed by the doomed Donner Party. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. after the riches ran out. but everyday tools. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. including one named Samuel Clemens. combed Cowboy Country. others moved on. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. In late 1860s. paralleled the Humboldt River. Cowboy Country . Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. parts of which are still visible today. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. lunch and dinner. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. The famous trail. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who.
the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. which measures . Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around.000-square-mile Pershing County. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. which the company named after him. After eight miles. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. located on the southern outskirts of town. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. The seat of 6. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. George Lovelock.300. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. With a population of just over 2. Five miles southwest of the shelter. turn left on Derby Road. arrived here in 1866. were also found and dated to 2000 BC.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. about 17 miles from Lovelock. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. which crosses the Humboldt River.
NV 89419. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. in 1886 or 1887. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. He may have been led there by Natchez.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. many of which were donated by locals. % 702-273-2713. PO Box 821. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. Mummified remains were found here. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. the first ever in the Great Basin. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. Tufas. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. Lovelock. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. which also features the community pool. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. clothing and household items. dark. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. One of only two round courthouses in the country. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. Scientific excavations. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. Admission is free. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. are large. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. picnicperfect park.
Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. is centered on this man-made lake. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. For details. NV 89419. see below under Adventures. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped.134 n Cowboy Country vada. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. as well as opportunities for boating. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. After later taking the name Mark Twain. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. which seems close enough to touch. Open all year. % 702-273-2713. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. Lovelock. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. About 16 families reside in Unionville. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. where stone . % 702-538-7321. PO Box 821. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. fishing and camping. below) and wellmanicured homes. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It.
Admission is free. Winnemucca (population 7. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. % 702-623-2912. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. except for lunch. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. Edna Purviance. a good spot for a picnic. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. % 702/623-2225. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. dancing. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. They later brought their families. Today their descendants. the Humboldt Museum complex. To reach Unionville from I-80. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. a former resident. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). Curator . including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. From here it’s five miles to the town. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors.
95 Bridge Street. 705 East Fourth Street. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. NV 89445. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. NV 89445. along with a thank you note. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. The former First National Bank. Winnemucca. There is a gift shop next door. % 702623-5025. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. 352 Bridge Street. Another gem is the Shone House. Like something out of old Mexico. .000 in gold. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County.000. 602 Bridge Street. was erected in 1863. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. US Forest Service. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. % 800-962-2638. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. Winnemucca. The thieves escaped to Texas. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. NV 89445. Winnemucca.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. but all are easily drivable. St. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. % 702-623-1500. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. NV 89445. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. nabbing $32. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. one of two in the country. The tour visits 30 sites. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. % 702-623-5025. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. Winnemucca.
These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. the town was an empty shell. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. To reach the remains of the camp. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. The Rochester Mining District. Today about 100 people live in town.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. A 20th-century ghost town.300 people had moved by 1913. Midas is two miles from this junction. once a busy town of more than 2. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. all but 250 people left. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. which serves as a meeting place and information center. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. The camp was abandoned by 1869. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. established Scottsdale in 1866. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. along with the local watering hole. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. Three years later the village became Paradise City. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. Jungo. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. which . and 2. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. after fending off resident Paiutes.
gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. Just south of town.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. located on the extreme east end of town. deli and soda fountain. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. Elko traces its roots back to 1868.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. biking. Paradise Saloon. fishing and camping. however. % 702-578-3381. this town of about 25.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. this is Cowboy Country. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. The local mining. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. A state park. (See Adventures and Camping. beautiful high-country lake. offers a bar. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. obtain maps.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. 1515 Idaho Street. Basque . It’s the white.) In town. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. After all. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. sometimes an angler’s paradise. % 702-623-5025. (See Adventures. verdant marshes. In Winnemucca. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. % 702-7383418. Gas is also available. is easy to locate.
Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. geography.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. The Western Folklife Center. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. . preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. and Sunday. % 800-453-9417. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. and a charter airline. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. Deweys Rent-A-Car. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range).C. For airport information.Touring n 139 immigrants. 1 PM to 5 PM. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. % 800-8727245. 10 AM to 5 PM. along with various other events throughout the year. 501 Railroad Street. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. also known as J. geology and industry abound. Admission is free. % 800-654-3131. Displays of local wildlife. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. % 800-331-1212. El Aero Services. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. Harris Field.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. % 702-738-5131. % 702-738-7123. % 702-738-7508. Hertz Rent-A-Car. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. 9 AM to 5 PM.
is one of the most photographed churches in the West. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. 89801. passing Powerhouse picnic area. Alpine vistas. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. Elko. 89801.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management.387 feet at Ruby Dome. located southeast of Elko. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. 89801. 700 Moren Way. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. At the . From Elko. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. % 800-248-ELKO. (See Adventures and Camping. % 702-753-0200. Elko. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. 90. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. Elko.800 feet). Elko Chamber of Commerce. Humboldt National Forest.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. fishing and camping in the entire West. 89803. 3900 East Idaho Street. From town. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. with elevations ranging up to 11. Elko. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. 976 Mountain City Highway. % 702-738-7135. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. 1601 Idaho Street. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. % 702-738-5171.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. including the remote.
As small and remote as Jarbidge is. the road meets the Jarbidge River. More than 1. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. or call them at % 702-488-2315. For access to both. Nevada. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. so drive cautiously. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. Yes. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. For details on all of this. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. then north another 25 miles. see below. check with the owners of the Trading Post. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. From Wells. this town sticks to Mountain Time. turns south.387 feet. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. Even when they are open. and by the 1930s the rush was over. Idaho. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. is visible in the west.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. From the south. and there’s no argument here. U-shaped valley. down into Jarbidge Canyon. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. (See On Foot.Touring n 141 crest. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. is spectacular. a high clearance vehicle is required. The road leads east 21 miles. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. Ruby Dome. rising 11. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time.500 people flooded into the region. . which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby.
however. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. the 44. Cool.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. Before entering town. the main artery running up the east side of the state. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. Sunday until 9 PM. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. head east from the border. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. 4 and go five miles northeast.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. % 702-752-3215. the main difference between the two sides being. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. reached easily via a paved highway. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . 647 Humboldt Avenue. For ghost town fans. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. which rises to 11. stare out across the famous. To access the flats. and the 37. n Wells From Elko. both available at the Trading Post. The town was abandoned in 1942. This is also the junction of US 93. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. The range is also home to Angel Lake. Bonneville Speedway Museum.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. exit at No. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. try Stuart’s Foodtown. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. n Wendover From Wells. stop at Horizon Viewpoint.) On the Utah side of the state line.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. % 801-665-7721. of course. the presence of casinos.
June Both hay. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. falcons and ospreys are common. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. is held in late March or early April. hawks. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. the historic World War II B-29s. which gains 1. Eagles. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow.000 buckaroos. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. which attracts upwards of 10. % 702-664-3414. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. a . The night before the events. February Wells holds its annual chariot races.600 feet in two miles.
July In July. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. Phone numbers can be found above. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. In Wendover. The town of McDermitt. The largest Basque get-together in the US. Unless otherwise indicated. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. . Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. under Touring. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. hear the music and eat the food. There is a traditional dance contest. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. when tanks. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. a parade and feats of strength. featuring food. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. For details.or 23-mile loop. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. six. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. dancing. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. Near Wendover.. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. call % 702-635-8245. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit.
The first half of the moderately strenous. The trail is punishing. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. From the top. Falcon Press Publishing. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. including the 31. Chartered in 1989. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. the road. passable by high-clearance vehicles. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. Granite Peak (elevation 9.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. 1994. Aspen. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. The trailhead appears after three miles. leads due east toward the highest point.000 feet in four miles. which . crossing Buffalo Creek. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit.834 feet). as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush.200 feet. climbing more than 4. Pronghorn antelope. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. willow and cottonwood country. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. To reach the trail. Star Peak (elevation 9. Star Peak. This makes for a great loop drive. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. From here. To reach the trailhead. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet.732) is the highest point.
6 miles to a parking area.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. Come prepared for anything.415). Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. including Singas Creek.800 feet above sea . contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. The gravel and dirt road runs 5.” Elevations range from 6. Return the way you came. descends toward a watercourse. more than 10. narrow canyons. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. big horn sheep. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. where you turn south. cirque basins. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. Hikers can visit rock peaks. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. glacial lakes. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. about one mile south of town. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. rolling sage-covered hills and steep.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). Mountain lions. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. depending on weather conditions. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. USGS 7. % 702-623-5025. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. Horses are welcome on these trails. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range.
contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. Pause to rest but not to fish. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. know this region as well as anyone. The five-mile. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. At 10.Adventures n 147 level. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. The pass is often closed in winter. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere.500 feet. so check road conditions before heading out. as there are no trout here. this is the high point of the trek. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. Feel free. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. set at 9. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. After about a mile and a half. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). granite landscape to Liberty Pass. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains.400 feet and heads north. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. Franklin Lake NW.400 feet. % 702-752-3357. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. Hyslop. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. From Roads End. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. of course. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. The 1. and his dog Molly. % 702-738-7135. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113.300-foot .
USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. Wild- . a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end.000 feet to 10. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. On a good day. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. Return the way you came. The trail drops again. Finally. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. the closest town. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson.000-foot mark. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. Most of the paths are found in the 113. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. subalpine forests. Idaho. From the trailhead. Just past the spring. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout.700 feet. Unfortunately. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination).
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. To reach the lake from Elko. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. rainbows. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. and black bass have become a favorite catch. For more information. brown and rainbow trout. % 702-623-5025.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. and everything is open year-round. call % 702-758-6493. campsites and restrooms. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. The site has a paved boat ramp. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. mountain whitefish. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. is also a good fishing spot. supports brook. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. Channel cats.
white-faced ibis. short-eared owl and American kestrel. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west.000 acres. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. % 702-738-5171.800 feet. including bald and golden eagle. To reach the refuge from Elko. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. . midway between the northern and southern portions. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. Within six miles of the trailhead. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road.154 n Cowboy Country ers. For more information. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. so check road conditions before heading out. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. For an easier drive from Wells. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. At the foot of the range. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. elevation 8. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. Turn left and head south 32 miles. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. contact the US Forest Service. great sandhill crane. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. trumpeter swam. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. Angel Lake Near Wells.
PO Box 685. the bowcut trout. PO Box 515. 1250 Lamoille Highway. % 702-664-3414. To reach the 2. HC 60. % 702779-2226. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. catfish. % 702-777-DIVE. 2511 Mountain City Highway. % 702-625-2453. 285 12th Street. 89801. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. 89801. HC30 Box 17 #13. Grandview Marine. are the best bets here. 423 South Bridge Street. have become a local haven for divers. % 702-7442277. Elko Guide Service. 89833. % 702-7382775. 89801. crystalline Blue Lakes. 89833. % 702779-2268. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. For more information. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. In warmer months.400-acre lake. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. Secret Pass Outfitters. Rainbow. % 702-7388473. HC 60. Raley’s. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. 89801. the spring-fed. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer .
% 702-753-6867. one tame and the other decidedly not so. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch.500 feet. is the most happening place in town. is convenient to I-80. % 800-528-1234. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. lounge. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. $$. 1420 Cornell Avenue. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. Elko SnoBowl. The Lovelock Inn.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. restaurant. with a 24-hour casino. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. covering 5.000 acres of skiable mountain. The outfit boasts 5. then head west for five miles to town. offers 130 acres of terrain. lodging and all the extras. 55 Cornell Avenue.200 feet. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March.200 vertical feet. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. Trips are limited to 16 people. $-$$. pool and jacuzzi. $$$. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. Although there isn’t a television to be found. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. % 702-738-7135. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. % 702-273-2937. ranging from 5. . Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. Lunch and dinner are extra. 2805 Unionville Road. To reach the ranch from I80. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder.500 to 6. not to mention 74 rooms. depending on snowfall. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. % 702-538-7585.
% 800-545-0044. 2065 Idaho Street. % 702-625-1818. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-5248. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. 400 1st Street. % 800-633-6435. % 702-623-3661. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. the Red Lion Inn.000. but also its own charter airline. in- . and the generic. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. % 702-623-1116. $$-$$$$. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. $$. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. % 702-738-8425. restaurant and bar. the 170-room Holiday Inn. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. The Red Lion not only has a casino. 3015 Idaho Street. $$$. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. There are plenty of cheap. $$$$$. The Gold Country Inn. 837 Idaho Street. and the Days Inn. a lounge with live entertainment.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. with 150 rooms. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. starting with the two biggies. $$. $-$$. including the queen of Elko establishments. a pool and 223 rooms. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-1180. Casino Express. % 800-346-5306. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-3646. $-$$. and the Motel 6. basic motels on the main drag. $-$$. restaurant and full bar. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. casino. the Ameritel Inn Elko. the Gold Country Motor Inn. $$-$$$. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. is for you. offers 40 rooms. $$. $$. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. % 702-738-8787. the Red Lion Inn. 1930 Idaho Street. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. the 80-room Val-U Inn. and the Holiday Motel. eateries. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. There are also two Best Westerns. % 702-738-8421. % 800-262-8901. $$-$$$. and the Model T Motel. $$. the Super 8. % 800-645-5658. 2050 Idaho Street. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. % 702-7387261. offering 70 rooms.
$$. 1755 Idaho Street. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. PO Box 281381. including skeet shooting. % 702-578-3530. $$$$. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. % 702-753-6363. 340 Commercial Street. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. Away from Idaho Street. biking and horseback riding. 89828. % 702-753-6356. Just outside of Lamoille. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. PO Box 281208. jacuzzi and fitness center. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. % 702-753-6281. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. and the Thunderbird Motel. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. % 702-738-7115. $$. $$$-$$$$. $-$$. is an exclusive. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. a swimming pool. Stonehouse Country Inn. along with a pool. % 702-738-5522. Jiggs Guest Ranch. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. $$$-$$$$. % 702-738-5141. % 702-738-8488. $$$-$$$$. has 70 rooms. hiking and fly fishing. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. bar and pool. $$-$$$. There is even space for campers and RVers. There are 141 rooms. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. $-$$. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. $-$$. Lamoille. restaurants. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. Red’s Ranch. The Shilo Inn. detached cabin with jacuzzi. . 2401 Mountain City Highway. $$-$$$. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. Stockmen’s Hotel. some with kitchenettes.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. 345 Idaho Street. For a real taste of Cowboy Country.
On Main Street. There are more than 1. HC 62. % 702-752-3384. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. 456 6th Street. On the north side of town. and the Best Western Sage Motel. % 702-752-2277. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. the Chinatown Motel. % 702-752-3353. $. There are 57 rooms. 930 6th Street. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. % 702-752-3604. $-$$$$. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. % 702-4082338. has 56 rooms. $-$$. HC 62. $$-$$$.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. PO Box 1300. even by the neighbors in Utah. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. % 800-848-7300. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. % 702-752-2116. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. % 702-7523065. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. if you’re into chains. which also has a restaurant and bar. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. % 702-752-3888. 89826. 100 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-752-2101. The Super 8. offers another 24 rooms. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. $$-$$$. most of them planted along 6th Street. Down the street. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. $-$$. and the Old West Inn. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. $$$-$$$$. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. 326 6th Street. If not. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. For more information. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. $. 576 6th Street. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. $-$$. Cottonwood Ranch. % 702-752-2151. the Outdoor Inn. % 702-488-2311. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. PO Box 300. the Rest Inn Suites. % 702-488-2315. Jarbidge. $. $-$$. PO Box 260090. $. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. 1250 East 6th Street. Together . A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast.
The Peppermill Hotel. pool. including restaurants and lounges. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. Nearby. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. Mexican food and pizza. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. offers breakfast. which has live entertainment. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. % 800-648-9660. 410 Cornell Avenue. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. % 702-623-3197. which basks in the Basque tradition. a 14. . % 702-273-2971. % 702-273-7773. the Super 8. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. live entertainment. 1420 Cornell Avenue. live showroom entertainment. lunch and dinner. 260 Maine Street. lounges. with 90 rooms. La Casita. is open until 10 PM every day. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. % 702-273-3232. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. $$. % 702-273-7444. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. along with daily specials. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. 680 Wendover Boulevard. serving steak. $$-$$$. is another gamer’s haven. % 800-537-0207. and Pizza Factory. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. leg of lamb. shrimp and Basque side dishes. and until 2 PM on Sunday. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. % 702-664-2888. tennis courts. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. restaurants.000-square-foot casino. $-$$. jacuzzi. 9 PM on Sunday. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. a health club. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. 750 Cornell Avenue. pool and jacuzzi. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. % 702-273-2442. Wee B’s Pizza & More. 485 Cornell Avenue. In the center of town. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop.
There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. since 1863. while The Griddle. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. 95 South Bridge Street. all of their meat is cut to order. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. % 702-625-2555. % 702-623-3455. This being ranch country. 2065 Idaho Street. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Elko The Red Lion Inn. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. 340 Commercial Street. 1061 West Fourth Street. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. % 702-738-3214. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. . 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-4440. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. 180 Melarkey Street. The Steak House. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. Stockmen’s Hotel. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. China Garden. Another Basque establishment. % 702-623-2908. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. Restaurante San Fermin. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. % 702-623-6777. but get there before 1 PM. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. The atmosphere is definitely casual. home of the world’s largest potato field. 1550 Idaho Street. % 702-738-9691. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-738-5141. % 702-623-2977. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. Specializing in steak. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. seafood and chicken. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. 405 Silver Street. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. % 800-545-0044. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. Toki Ona. % 702-623-4104. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel.
Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. % 702-738-7088.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. also serves hearty meals. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. % 702-4882315. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. delivers on its name. opens daily at 11 AM. to peruse the ornate bar. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. If you crave Mexican food. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. 217 Idaho Street. Pizza Barn. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. Pine Lodge. where it survived The Big One in ’06. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. Burger Bar. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. . The breakfast burritos are particularly good. % 702-753-3877. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. 9 Beans and a Burrito. depending on weather conditions. % 702-7382541. % 702-752-3210. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. % 702-753-6363. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. 780 Commercial Street. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. 2525 Mountain City Highway. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. Prices range from moderate to expensive. % 702-753-6356. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. 1740 Mountain City Highway.300 souls. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. La Fiesta. Main and Humboldt Streets. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. % 702-488-2311. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. % 702-738-1622. % 702-738-7898. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine.
call % 800-962-2638. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. $3 per night in winter.600 feet. 22 miles north of Lovelock. Sites 22. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. 23. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. % 800-648-9660. For more information. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. 25. the area has two campgrounds. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. Set at 7. just north of the dam. $8 for a two-family site. There is running water and vault toilets. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. For modern hunter-gatherers. The Peppermill Hotel. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. The fee is $7 per night. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. Set at 7.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. offer 12 different restaurants. 680 Wendover Boulevard. call % 702-738-5171. For more information. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. which holds trout and walleye. % 800-848-7300. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. located at the end of Hanson Street. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. Fees are $7 per night in summer.400 feet. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. The main draw here is 11. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. For more information.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. 100 Wendover Boulevard. call % 702-538-7321. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. 27 and 29 are especially good. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. The other one. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. two beautiful US Forest Service .
. all free. and the fee is $7 per night.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains.900 feet. Set at 8. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. About five miles up NV 225. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. The fee is $5 per night. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water.500 feet. % 702-752-3357. The campground. first-served sites.800 feet and is popular with anglers. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. with running water. including three run by the US Forest Service. depending on the availability of running water. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. One mile north of town. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. For information on the above campgrounds. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. has 37 first-come. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. For more information. and the fee is $8 per night. and are open June to October. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. offering 18 sites with running water. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. % 208-5434129. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. Angel Creek is set at 6. but no running water. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. The cabins are open October through mid-May.
search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. however. who once roamed this entire area. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. like Belmont and Rhyolite. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. Others. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. US For- B Pioneer Territory . both socially and physically. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. Meanwhile. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. are in a state of “arrested decay. an 11.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. writer. like Silver Peak and Goldfield.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. Rocky Mountain elk. Toiyabe. but the rest of the country. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. and six state parks to explore. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. Department of Defense. In the lowlands. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. low taxes. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. Geographically. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. affordable housing . Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. In the Mojave Desert.Touring n 167 est Service. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. Nevada Division of State Parks. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. then limber pine at higher elevations. People and services are scarce. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory.000.
is the first and. authorizing up to 90. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. only winery in Nevada. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. % 702-7276900. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. On the south end of town in a modern. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. 1141 South Highway 160.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . % 702-727-5800. there’s no competition). It’s also one of the hottest. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. as of this writing. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. blue and white building. 3810 Winery Road. The 22. % 702-7270896. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. 1771 Sagehen Road. According to Winona LaDuke. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. In 1997. % 702-751-0821. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. mission-style.
mallards. moorhens. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. Box 610Z. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. however. then head west for about 20 miles. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. It’s no easy job. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. following the signs to Ash Meadows. % 702-372-1131. . NV 89020. Visitors can. inaccessible to the general public. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. snipe. coyotes and rabbits. including ducks. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. Amargosa Valley. HCR 70. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. great blue herons.300 spread over 545 square miles. % 702-372-5435. prairie falcons. whitefaced ibises. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. and the second-greatest in all of North America. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. coots. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. for some handmade Mexican food.
The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street.000. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. three newspapers.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. HC 70. NV 89020. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. PO Box 6102. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. 19 hotels.000. Kelly’s Bottle House. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. 50 saloons. .000 claims over 30 square miles. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. for more information. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. Now recognized as a state historic site. maps. and the old train depot. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. Amargosa Valley. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. % 702-3725459. % 702-5532200. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. the gray.
Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. turn-of-the-century frontier community. .” a collection of white. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. Local residents were used as models. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. By 1920. Today the remains of stone buildings. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. life-size. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. Once the largest city in the state. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. % 702-553-2424. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. In the first decade of the 20th century.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. when the money ran dry. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. Goldfield Founded in 1902. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. however.000. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion.000 dizzy with gold fever. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. constructed in 1908 for $500. crystal chandeliers. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. keeping a population of more than 20. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper.
About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. . pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. % 702482-3558. the Central Nevada Museum. 301 Brougher Avenue. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. and east-west-running US 6. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. and spend a few hours following its trail. built in 1908 and still in use today. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. including the old post office that is now the local museum. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. % 702-482-9676. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. Before heading out. however. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. % 702-485-6365. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce.
Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. As this is being written. call % 702-482-5355. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. As a judge. In 1911. see below under On Foot. For more information.000 acres. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. power plants. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. Located on the north edge of town. and the 1907 George A. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. The museum is open daily. are available by special request. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. which total more than 260. which helped put the state on the map. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. For more on these wonderful regions. which dates to 1906. Admission is free. with Hawthorne the new seat. ore bins. Like many Nevada locales.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. photographs and exhibits. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. 9 AM to 5 PM. including a map room. the town exploded – figuratively – and . Bartlett House. slide show and research facilities. A library. Mineral.
fire and railroad equipment. however.000.500 people. The museum is open Monday through Friday. wildlife and fossils. a combination truck stop. rocks. at the corner of 10th and D streets. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. At the zenith of its existence. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. noon to 4 PM in winter. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself.) Before heading to the lake. minerals. Near the northern tip of the lake. % 702-945-3266. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer.000 residents. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. To see where it all started. Take this road six miles to the town. cameras and photography. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. % 702-945-5142. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. 898 E Street. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. The Mineral County Museum. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. The main attraction. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. (See On Water. below. the town boasted 1. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. and by 1890 the good times were over. Victorian furniture. Nevada seat and the Mono . The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. Admission is free. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. restaurant and Native American gift shop. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. To reach Candelaria. just three miles from the California border. paved road on the right. is nearby Walker Lake. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. From Caliente. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. is open year-round. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March.200 feet. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. There are 42 campsites. located in a long. For information on any or all. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. set at 5. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. All of them offer overnight camping. native plants and unique rock formations. Boats are not recommended. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. along with many other events. The 2. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. The park. but travel is not advised during winter months. pinyon and juniper forests. From . below). % 702-728-4467. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water.
There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. hazy afternoon. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. true believers theorize. Winter travelers might also find snow here. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. There are 37 campsites. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. for a walking/driving tour map. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. All told. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. men in black and all things conspiratorial. The original building costs totaled $16.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. they ran up to $1 million. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse.000. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. % 702-962-5215. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. Packed with historic points of interest. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. government cover-ups. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . From Caliente. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1.
TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. % 702-729-2515. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. including the old mill. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. Ichthyosaurs.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. a thought scarier than any little green men. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. If you’re in the neighborhood. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . or fish lizards. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. a bar and cemetery. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. selling souvenirs and literature. The park is open all year. sleeping quarters.
Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. July.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. Interpretive tours are held in March. travel west six miles to NV 773. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. up through the sparse forest of . June. The trail climbs nearly 2. April. the highest point in Nevada at 13. where desert bighorn sheep.140 feet. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. There are numerous access points to the 115. to NV 884. turn right. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. Located in the relatively dry. August. call % 702-867-3001. elk. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. October and November. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. The trail seems faint at times. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. Return the way you came. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. From here go seven miles to a junction. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. To reach the park from Hawthorne. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. mountain lion. through Gabbs. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. following a stream into Trail Canyon. deer. For more information. From here.000 feet in 3½ miles. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. then half a mile east. The hike begins on the road. and roll on six more miles to the parking area.
The main trail leads straight ahead. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. nine miles from the trailhead. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. About a mile and a half later. another narrow. Pine Creek. up and up alongside the South Twin River. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. where it crosses the water several times. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. About 500 yards beyond the mill. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. USGS quads for Carvers NW. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. pinyon pine and juniper. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. limber pine.020-foot Peavine Peak. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. The path descends further. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. and at higher elevations.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. the trail gains 1.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. The 38. . continues a steep ascent to another saddle. Consult Toms Canyon. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. too.361-foot Arc Dome. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike.
literally and figuratively. deer and coyote. going west. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. mountain lion.949 feet above sea level. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. is imposing Mount Jefferson. The high point. The summit trail.000 years ago. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. After turning west. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. Return the way you came. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. 11. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. From Tonopah. is lined with aspen and birch. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. It was used as a hunting camp 5. In fact. . Turn left and head toward the highest point. which marks the way to Pine Creek. south. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. which tops out at 11.
so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. The trail first splits at mile three. Elk. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. so travel with care. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. and the skills to use them. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands.000 acres. To complete a nice loop hike. The main trail continues straight ahead. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. This is remote. set aside in 1989. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. Hikers should have maps and a compass. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. with Dry Lake off to the west. As you’ll see. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. From the trailhead. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. The 98. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. climbing up the creek drainage. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead.856foot Monitor Peak. rugged country. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek.
White’s masterful book. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. . Meanwhile. in Echo Canyon State Park. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. crosses the water and begins a steep. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. Wilderness Press. 1997. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. refer to Michael C. then continue south two miles back to the campground. Once atop the plateau. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. then descending into Ash Canyon. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Enjoy the views. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. Also close by. % 702-4826286. some will lead hikes and photography trips.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park.
108 feet. 89045. 8½ miles from US 95. Lund Gary Luisetti. leaving a strenuous. Just beyond the right-of-way. then continues south to a junction. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. 89049. PO Box 168. % 702-465-2598. The road turns east briefly. you’ve gone too far. PO Box 1149. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. 89025. PO Box 65. Box 77206. 89049. Nicholas Perchetti. % 702-482-6422. Mustang Outfitters. Stahl. Lewis. (If you pass Millers. 27 Smith Gage Road. Jr. unmarked hike to the summit. Galvin. Roy Lerg. % 702-463-4497.. Timberline Outfitters. Smith. % 702-964-1207. climbing into a small valley. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. PO Box 162. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. Berg. % 702-964-2145. . % 702-283-7797. 89447. which. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. Timberline Outfitters. PO Box 428. Yerington Marty S. Round Mountain William A. turn left and head due south. 89045.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. Grand Slam Safaris. PO Box 725. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. % 702-482-6258. Expeditions Unlimited. James S. Moapa Adam R. Howard. at 9. Mason Valley Guide Service. 89430. 89317. HCR 60.
188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. however. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. so keep your distance.000 to construct in 1876. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. and Pine Creek. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. is open for business on weekends. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. Manhattan boomed. % 702377-2490. which was first settled in the 1860s. Belmont saw most of the 2. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. Continuing north. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. The other ruins are on private property. % 702-482-6331. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. A few dozen people still live in the area. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. Just north of Pine Creek. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. The Belmont Saloon. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. For road conditions. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. known for abundant wildlife. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District.
Adventures n 189 as it is unique. Not only is the water very hot. . The springs are half a mile away. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. % 702-482-7800. For more information contact the BLM. Continuing north. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. then part of Utah Territory. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Take an unpaved road . Mormon settlers were sent to this region. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. stay out. but check on road conditions before you go. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. to establish missions. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. mountain mahogany and aspen. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. From Pioche. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. Pioneer Territory Mt.2 mile west of Lockes going south. the fauna changes to ponderosa. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. Wilson National Back Country Byway. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. As tempting as a bath might seem. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine.
% 702727-4504. contact the BLM. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. Just a mile north of Dyer. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. % 702289-4865. Two of the best spots are Peavine . but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. Information Sources For more information and a map. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. % 702-727-8276. At Oakridge Landing. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road.140-foot Boundary Peak. cutthroat and rainbow trout.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. 5340 South Oakridge Road. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. 13. brown. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout.
when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours.7 miles north of Hawthorne). Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. After the road peters out.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness.000 acres. however. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. Covering 37. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. April. rainbow and brown trout. October and November. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. % 702-482-6286. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). Beginning at the southern end of the lake.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. In fact. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. Fishing derbies are held in February. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. picnic facilities and boat ramp. The lake is named for Joe Walker. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. . Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range.4 miles).
for details. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). about 13 miles south of the confluence. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. but motors are prohibited. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. write the group at PO Box 867. NV 89415. % 760-872-2533 . Contact the refuge office. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. % 702-725-3417. % 702-394-4040. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. 633 Schley Street. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. Hawthorne. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Bishop. which are stocked in spring and fall. Brown trout. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. Howe. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. while Canada geese. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. Boaters are welcome. Classic Anglers. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory.000 acres. are the main attraction here. largemouth bass and white crappie. Kathleen L. 93514. CA.
HCR 60. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Advance reservations are highly suggested. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. 1220 South Highway 160. % 702-964-1207. James S. Stahl. Galvin. Mason Valley Guide Service. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. The family-style outings. at least temporarily. % 702-482-6422. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Howard. 89447. PO Box 1149. home on the range. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump.. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. Tonopah Stanley R. PO Box 65. % 702-889-8844. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. Timberline Outfitters. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Timberline Outfitters. Suite 9B. Berg. % 702-482-6258. PO Box 725. 89045. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. The big enchilada is Saddle West. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. 89049. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . Jr. Nicholas Perchetti. PO Box 168. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. % 702-964-2145. 89049. 89045. Mustang Outfitters. % 702-3721717. Box 77206. 89104.
420 West Main Street. There are 60 rooms. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. The other two motels are the El Portal. % 702-727-5100. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. % 702-553-2333. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. $-$$. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. lounge. $-$$. The Exchange Club Motel. US 95 at First Street. a convenience store. $. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. which has 30 rooms and a pool. % 702-727-5445. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. % 800-508-9493. $-$$. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. $-$$. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. Highway 160 at Loop Road.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. $. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. With 110 rooms. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. % 702-553-2250. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. % 702553-2912. 9000 North 5th Avenue. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. $-$$. hair salon. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. 1201 South Highway 160. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. including a heated pool. a restaurant. has 32 rooms. In short. A lounge with live entertainment. . $-$$. along with a pool and honeymoon room. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. non-smoking rooms and a pool. $-$$. was built in 1905. % 702-4853431. 604 Main Street. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. though. % 702-553-2225. casino and lounge. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. while the inn offers laundry services. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. Don’t worry. $-$$. a casino with live 21. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn.
$. lounge with entertainment. lounge. 1402 5th Street. has been catering to travelers since 1943.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. 100 South Main Street. $. % 702-482-6238. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. comes highly rated. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. It has 94 rooms. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. Some of the larger. This place has it all: 75 rooms. % 702-482-3511. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. a restaurant and free coffee. a heated pool and a small play area. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. Location. RV parking and free continental breakfast. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. the Butler has 25 rooms. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. 700 Main Street. % 702-945-3352. % 702-945-2444. arcade and laundry. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. % 702-482-9777. $. $. Just a block away. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. $. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. a casino. Even dogs are welcome. 1301 5th Street. The . 826 Main Street. % 702-945-3321. RV hookups. restaurants. 540 F Street. % 702-482-3577. 1100 Main Street. including four two-bedroom units. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. % 702482-5920. % 702-482-6224. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. % 702-945-2660. location. $$. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. a restaurant and bar. also has a pool. at very reasonable rates. with a restaurant. There are 103 rooms. and the 33-room Clown Motel. 521 North Main Street. pool and free in-room coffee. a Jacuzzi and a pool. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. which has 93 rooms. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. $-$$. $. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. If you’re into chains. and the sprawling Station House. Adjacent to Walker Lake. has 39 rooms. The Jim Butler Motel. $$. workout equipment. 323 Main Street. two restaurants. % 702-482-6291. The Best Western Desert Lodge. a casino. % 702-482-6202. 100 North Main Street. 1 Cliff House Road. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. 255 Main Street. $. free movies and is close to the convention center. with 40 rooms. $. $. Dating back to 1908.
Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. $-$$.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. % 702-465-2341. pool. with blueprints for hundreds more. which at last count had 1. formerly Players Island. % 800-346-4611. which has 14 rooms. 720 Sierra Highway. % 800-896-4567. $-$$. has 700 rooms. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. and the Rocket. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. with a 24-hour casino. 301 Mesa Boulevard. . The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. including dozens of suites. fitness center and live music. $$. Jacuzzi. 390 North Sandhill Road. 694 Sierra Highway. $. % 702-465-2959. Jacuzzi. $-$$$. RV park and four bungalows. 39 North Center Street. To find a quieter environment. 965 Sierra Highway. pool. golf course. 11 North Main Street. $$-$$$. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. % 702-945-2544. a lounge. various restaurants. % 702-346-7444. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. % 800-346-7721. % 702-945-3316. pool and movie theater. a pool. which has 14 rooms. $-$$. the 23-room Holiday Lodge.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. $-$$. $$. live entertainment. pool and spa. The Casa Blanca. % 702-463-2481. tennis courts. Jacuzzi. $$-$$$. a golf course. on the corner of 5th and J streets. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. $$-$$$. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. restaurants. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall.900 or so residents. 2827 Highway 208. airport shuttle. movie theater and kids’ play area. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. % 702-463-2998. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. % 702-463-2991. $. $. the Hawthorne. has 67 rooms. entertainment. % 702-945-2573. % 702-945-2143. family fun center and an airport shuttle. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. Run by the Masini family. a pool and a hot tub. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. bars. a pair of family-style restaurants. Just west of Smith in Wellington. % 800-621-0187. which has two non-smoking rooms. bowling alley. % 702-465-2573. has five rooms. $. a 925-seat showroom. $$. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith.
1220 South Highway 160. $-$$. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. Rose Garden. % 702-727-2404. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. and welcomes pets. % 702-726-3106. is open 24 hours a day. $. 100 West Stagecoach Road. % 702-729-2515. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. At Saddle West Casino. % 702-9625404.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. % 702-751-7777. which has 22 rooms. Besides. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. $. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. a restaurant and bar. % 702-727-0909. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. $-$$. % 702-727-7777. % 702726-3777. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. Stagestop Casino. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. No fast food. 601 South Highway 160. 450 Front Street. has 13 rooms. % 702-727-7300. % 702-962-5551. 100 LaCour Street. Flying saucer parking is out back. and the buffet starts at $2. $. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. . which has five rooms. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. also have full-service restaurants. $. % 702-727-6440. the Silver Spur. % 702-726-3291. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full.99. pharmacy and bank. 884 A Street. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93.
348 North Main Street. and Burro Inn. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. The Exchange Club. % 702-945-3320. % 702-945-2727. Maggies. % 702-9452994. 785 E Street. try Happy Buddha. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. 100 North Main Street. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. 1100 Main Street. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. % 800508-9493. 923 5th Street. is the home of two restaurants. 1291 5th Street. also have family-style restaurants. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. 11 North Main Street. % 702-945-3321. % 702-5532225. The Station House. % 702-482-6202. 501 I Street. If you’re in the mood for Mexican.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. % 702-945-5253. including excellent seafood. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. % 702-463-2481. % 702-553-2111. you could do worse than El Marques. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. % 702-945-1700. open until 9 PM. The . features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. 570 E Street. Yerington Casino West. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. has a great $7. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. % 702-4823885. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. % 702-553-2368. 540 F Street. % 702-945-3908. % 702482-9777. Traditional American and Continental fare. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. also has a 24-hour café. fill the menu. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan.
Peavine Campground is set at 6. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. % 702463-2868. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. The Virgin River Hotel. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. The Mason Valley Country Club. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. serves breakfast. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. There’s even an indoor workout facility. To reach the campground from Tonopah. is like a blast from the 50s. satisfying and never-ending. % 702-7263194. % 800-346-7721. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. Dini’s Luck Club. along with the usual buffet. % 702-463-2054. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. % 702-4633707. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. Carl’s Burgers. which serves breakfast. 11 North ALT 95. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. % 702-4623300. 111 Highway 208. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. The Casa Blanca. Two blocks up. % 702-727-2314. % 800-896-4567. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. % 800-621-0187. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. 45 North Main Street. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. has a 24-hour coffee shop. 2281 West Scales Way. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. lunch and dinner. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. 702-726-3138. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. 915 Mesquite Boulevard.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. It’s a perfect spot for lunch.
The campground is another three miles away. providing access to fishing and hiking. above. From here. offers sites for $11 per night. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. . The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. To reach the campground from Tonopah. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. the unpaved road goes south briefly. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. There are 11 sites set at 6. To reach the campground from Tonopah. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right.800 feet in the Monitor Range. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. For information. % 702-687-6100. From Tonopah. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. For directions. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. % 702-945-3373. % 702-4826286.100foot level. There is no running water and no fee. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. contact the BLM. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. see On Foot.700 feet.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. through Belmont. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89.
Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. DeLorme. They are listed in alphabetical order. American Automobile Association.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. 1990. 1997. 1993. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. Frank Amato Publications. Falcon Press Publishing. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. American Automobile Association. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. 1998. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. David Communications. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. 1997. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Henry Holt and Company. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. 1994. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. published by the State of Nevada. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. Suggested Reading . Basin and Range by John McPhee. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. 1995. Moon Publishing. 1993. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. 1995. 1996. Noonday Press. Falcon Press Publishing.
Wilderness Press. Mojave Books. Legend and Description by David J. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. 1997. White. 1969. La Siesta Press. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. Gem Guides Book Company. Jr. . 1997. 1997. Bischoff. Stolley. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Maturi. 1993. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Falcon Press Publishing. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. 1992. 1995. The Globe Pequot Press. Falcon Press Publishing.. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. 1993. Clark. American & Geographic World Publishing.
115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 194. 78. Ichthyosaur State Park. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. specific towns airlines. 187-188 biking. see also petroglyphs. 168-169. 13-15. 193-197. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 77. 15-16. 46. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 49. hiking outfit- Index . 186 Belmont. wagon trips. Sand Springs Pony Express Station.183. 115-116 ballooning. 120-123. transportation. 29. 152. touring. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). events. pictographs art galleries. 117-118. 2. 132-133. 137 Candelaria. 35. 50-52. 183-184. Las Vegas area. Pony Express territory. 28. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 185. camping. Pioneer territory. 89. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. Lovelock Indian Cave. 129-130 bungee jumping. 103. 41-43. 17. biking. 91 Barley Creek.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. Pioneer territory. 199. touring. 179. Las Vegas. 15-16 bird watching. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 67-70. restaurants. 123. 36. 75-76. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 104-107. 13. 198. fishing. 17. 104. Bonneville Salt Flats. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 27 books. safety rules. 193. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 78 BLM. 86. camping. 102. 43-44. 194. 123 Baker Lake Trail. horseback riding. 179. hiking. price scale. 126. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. Las Vegas territory. 184. 34-35 Boundary Peak. Leonard Rock Shelter. 3135. 10. 54-55. 187-190. 115. 124 auto racing. 144 backpacking. 125-128. outfitters. 119-120. festivals. 197. Pony Express territory. accommodations. wild. Pioneer territory. 132. camping. 164. Reno-Tahoe area. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. Reno-Tahoe area. camping. hiking. special events. restaurants. 155 boating. 38. 182. fishing. 146. 85. camping. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 174 canoeing. 169-170 Anasazi people. 117. touring. 8386. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 198. see also camping. 117-119. 27. 187-190. 26-27 buses. 67 bowling. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 144. 182-183. biking. skydiving. 118. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. see also zoos. 163-164. safety rules. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 144. 131. 135. biking. 200 Basque people. 10-12. 142. 199-201. 154 animal life. 113. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. 121. see transportation air tours. 142. 193 Aurora. 92-96. 200 altitude sickness. touring. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 174-175 Austin. wildlife and bird watching antelope. accommodations. 169. 152. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 15-16. 94-95. Reno-Tahoe area. 32. 118. 76. Cottonwood Valley. see water sports car rental. 48-49. restaurants. events. see transportation Carson City. Pony Express territory. restaurants. Mount Jefferson. Elko. 156160. 42 burros. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 181-182. 192 Big Smoky Valley.
172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 73. Samuel. 126. 137. 65 gambling. touring. 98 fossils.5 Cathedral Gorge. transportation. camping. 6-7 ters. Lovelock Indian Cave. Pioneer territory. 125. 106. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 147-148 Eberhardt. hiking. 186 elk. 126-127. Reno-Tahoe territory. 143. Las Vegas area. 4-5 Gardnerville. 142 Great Basin. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 132-133. fishing. 125. Treasure City. 160 Goshute Mountains. camping. fishing. 176. 137. safety rules. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. Reno-Tahoe area. 78 casinos. 40. 15-16. 109. Jungo. Hamilton. 131. 194-195. 112. 137. 187-190. mercury warnings. 134-135. outfitters. 157-158. camping. camping. 177. 190 . sport-climbing ratings. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 112 Genoa. 138-139. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 200 Cowboy Country. 124. Dunn Hatchery. 15-16 Fremont. fishing. 176. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 121. Toquima Cave. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 144. Las Vegas territory. 106 diving. 115 Gold Center. 35-36. 98. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. accommodations. 117. 4. 143-144. 179. accommodations. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 89. 12. 169. 119. 108 events: Cowboy country. 12. 179. 161-162. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 116. 150-151. 120-121. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. hiking. 17. John C. Pioneer territory. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 120. pupfish. Gold Center. 168. 180 Earth Connections. 188-189 Clemens. touring. 77. 75. 184. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 185. 142. 167. camping. Pony Express territory. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 82. 171. horseback riding. 29. 44-48. 190-193. 122-123. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 179. 178. 125. accommodations. 86. 43-44. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 100. 3. 37-41. outfitters. 153 Chimney Springs. Lake Tahoe area. 79. camping. hiking. 174-175. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 111. hiking outfitters. Shermantown. 75 Galena Creek County Park. Lehman Caves. 70. Pyramid Lake Fishway.. Rochester Mining District. Cowboy country. 118. 188-189 fishing. Northumberland Cave. 102-104. touring. camping. 18-19 climbing. 74. 97. 155-156. restaurants. outfitters. 83. 139. 109. 127. 152. 119-120. 185. camping. 22. 179.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 112. 170. restaurants. 74 Death Valley National Park. Eberhardt. 116-117. touring. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 139140 Ely. 121-122. outfitters. Midas. 137. 152-155. 109 Glacier Trail. fishing. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 14 Colorado River. Camp Winfield Scott. touring. 80. 109. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. biking. 192. see events fish. springfish. 172 golf. Rhyolite. restaurants. 170-171 Denio Junction. Las Vegas area. 67. 175 climate. Candelaria. restaurants. 171-172 Gold Point. 170. 70-71. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 88. 87 Dayton. Metropolis. 13-15. events. 75. restaurants. special events. 163-164. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 139 cruises. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 119. 174. 110. skiing. 182. 46 Comstock Lode. auto racing. 177. 149-150. 155.
38. Pony Express territory. 192. 79. restaurants. restaurants. Las Vegas territory. 64. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. hiking outfitters. 91 information sources. 83. 45. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 112-117. Pioneer territory. 179 Kingston. 120 Incline Village. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 4WD trail. 165-167. 160. 28. 107. balloning and soaring. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 44 Las Vegas territory. transportation. 188-189. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 162. 46. hiking outfitters. 148-149 jeep tours. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 177 mercury warnings. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 181-187. biking. 82. 65. 91-92. 40. restaurants. 75. 193. events. 99-100. 106. 83. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. touring. Reno-Tahoe territory. hiking. 90 helicopter tours. 39 history: Cowboy country. horseback riding. hiking. 52-53. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. 151. 88. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. map. 13-15. state. transportation. 150. 3536. 166. 148-149 Humboldt River. 152. outfitters. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 78-79 Jungo. 93. touring. Las Vegas area. 1. 21-22. 86. 149. 195-196. 127. Pony Express territory. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 158. 90. Walley’s Hot Springs. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. restaurants. 63-66. 156. touring. 164. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 102. 29-31. 41. fishing. 66. 47. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. watersports. touring. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. hiking. 55. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 103 Hamilton. 57-58. 62. 150. 80-81 hiking. hiking. Las Vegas. events. 34-35 Lehman Caves. touring. camping. touring and transportation. 20. 64. 163. 176. Midas Hot Spring. 119 Index . outfitters. 200-201. 48-49. 82. Pioneer territory. 145-150. 83-84. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 111. touring. 43. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 57. 125. 146. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 37-41. restaurants.Index Great Basin National Park. 32-33 Lake Mohave. camping. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 49-50. 31-35. 41-43. 153. 141-142. 50-52. camping. skiing. Kyle Hot Spring. 47 lakes. 24. skiing. 187 Manhattan. camping. outfitters. 137 kayaking. 32-33. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. Reno-Tahoe territory. 39. RenoTahoe territory. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 36. 46. 129-131. 130. 54. 53-54. fishing. 140-141 land. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. description of. 46. boating outfitters. 149-150. Pioneer territory. 48. camping. transportation. 77. 117 hotels. 132 Lexington Arch. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 32 horseback riding. Nevada. see air tours Hemenway Park. air tours. snow sports outfitters. special events. Las Vegas territory. 110-112. water sports. restaurants. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 186-187. Cowboy country. 98. 37-40. 116-117. 198. accommodations. 78. 118. Reno. 162. camping. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. biking. 159. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. camping. 118 Lone Mountain. 23-29. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. Pony Express territory. camping. 60. touring. 40-41. 101.
73. 25. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. touring. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 25. 61. Nevada State Library & Archives. 34.206 n Index seum. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 77. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. Fleischmann Planetarium. 26. camping. 177. 173. 31. 175. fishing. Lyon County Muserum. 61. 4. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 98. 175. 72-73. Central Nevada Museum. 174. The Castle. restaurants. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 196197. 173. Piper’s Opera House. 25. 189-190 Muir. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 35. 25. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 79. Desert Valley Museum. 26. 173. 70-71 mines and mining. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. skiing and snowboarding. fishing. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. Colorado River Museum. 180 Minden: events. 2. 171. 199-200. 127 pictographs. Liberace Museum. touring. Marshall Mint Museum. Northeastern Nevada Museum. hiking. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 68. 109-110. 200 motels. Wilbur D. hiking outfitters. 8. Las Vegas Art Museum. 106 Pine Creek: camping. Nevada Historical Society. 2. horseback riding. 83. 10. 135136. 34. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 34. 107. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. accommodations. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 170. 32. 73. 108. 109. 133. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 71. 183. 69. Guinness World of Records Museum. 3-4. Lost City Museum. 29 Mount Jefferson. Brewery Arts Center. 26. 163. 34. 193-194. Nevada State Mu- . 68. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 165. hiking. 73. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 126. 67. Stewart Indian Museum. 134 petroglyphs. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 188. The Way It Was Museum. 78. 25-26. 142 Midas. 199 Metropolis. Western Folklife Center. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 103. 199. 61. 135. 70. 165 nuclear waste. 174. 71. 23. 61. 69. 2. 91. John. 86. 68. restaurants. see accommodations motorcycles. 153 Northumberland Cave. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 4. Clark County Heritage Museum. 69. 25. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 23 Overton: touring. 80-81 Native American festivals. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 69. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 181 Moapa. fishing. 139. 174. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 139. Roberts House Museum. Mineral County Museum. Virginia & Truckee Depot. see biking Mount Charleston. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 142. 29. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 106 nuclear testing. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 43. 61 music and theater. 153. 75. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 72. 177. 71. 33. 8182 Mesquite. 73. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 11 Mosquito Creek. 73. Capitol Building and Museum. 200. 43. Humbolt Museum. 113 Mount Rose: camping. White Pine Public Museum. Marzen House Museum. 69. Nevada State Railroad Museum. Keck Minerals Museum. Churchill County Museum & Archives. touring. 177. 102. see biking mountain biking. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 197-198. 178. outfitters. 187 Mojave Desert. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 171. camping. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 107. Mark Twain Museum. 158. May Museum and Arboretum. 26. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. National Automobile Museum. 167-168 Paiutes.
74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 143 Rachel. 49-50. 117. 200 temperature chart. 83-84. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 163-164. 115. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 17. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 163. 181. touring. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 163. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge.” 4 silver. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 109 Shoshone people. 17. hiking and climbing. 146. hiking. 104. 176 rodeos. 89. 54. 180. 12. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 197-199. biking. see events Round House Art Gallery. fishing. 160-163. 169 Pyramid Lake. camping. 26-27. biking. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 98. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. transportation. 167. 185-186. 197 rafting. 197. 193. 190. 94 special events. see climbing rock hunting. 76. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. touring. 66. accommodations. 113. skiing. 82. 186-187. camping. camping. 9697. 88 Shermantown. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 198. fishing. skiing. Las Vegas territory. 76. bike. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 48-49 snowboarding. hiking. restaurants. touring. fishing. 36. camping. 165-201 plant life. 134. 9-10. 89-91 skydiving. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 193. 153 Sparks. Pony Express territory. biking. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. RenoTahoe area. 85. 65 Pony Express territory. 52 pupfish. 154. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. hiking. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 144. see skiing snowmobiling. 123-125. 78. 88 Star Peak: hiking. see mines and mining skiing. 179 Searchlight. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 74 races. see climbing springfish. 150-151. restaurants. Pioneer territory. see events price codes. 84. 195. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 173 Index . 77-78.Index Pioche: accommodations. fishing. 93-94. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. climbing and hiking. 53-54. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 156. 42. 187. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 59-61. 77. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 76. 98. 144. restaurants. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. auto. fishing. camping. 91. 144. 78. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. touring. snow sports outfitters. 79. 17. water sports. 54. 13 Price Lakes. 17. 96-97. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 9 Sand Mountain. 90 soaring. 142. 84-85 swimming. 92-93. horse. 80 pronghorn antelope. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 143. hiking. Reno-Tahoe area. 106 Siegel. 146-147. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 106 Spooner Lake. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 112. 129-130. Las Vegas area. 90 sport climbing. Benjamin “Bugsy. 180 Pioneer territory. 138 rock climbing. special events. 145-146 prostitution. 179. accommodations. 114-115 theater. 87. motorcycle. outfitters. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 88. 170 rivers. 79-80.
191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. High Rock Canyon. Echo Canyon State Park. Arc Dome Wilderness. 199. 95. 102. 185. 168 zoos. camping. 167. outfitters. Winnemucca. 76. camping. buses. outfitters. 44-48. 29-30. Jack’s Valley Road. 106 trains. 157. outfitters. touring. 163. 67. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. Cleve Creek Campground. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. Walker Lake. 139. touring. Pioneer territory. fishing. 156-157. touring. climbing and hiking. rental cars. 71-74 Virgin River. 163-164. 111. 193. 143. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 174 walking. hiking outfitters. touring. 62. 79-80. events. 176 Yerington: accommodations. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 26-27. 83. 153-154. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. restaurants. Hemenway Park. 135-137. restaurants. Ruby Mountains. events. special events. 117 Toquima Cave. 86 Wells: accommodations. 33. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 25 Topaz Lake. 35. 144. 168-169. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 172. see transportation transportation: airports. events. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. fishing. 68. restaurants. 151 Wovoka. 119-120. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 73. 98. 117. 200-201. hiking. 147-148. 159-160. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. see plant life tufas. 30-31. 39 vineyards. 150. 150. 112. touring. 55. 149. 155. 178. hiking outfitters. Pony Express territory. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. Las Vegas territory. wildlife and bird watching. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 32. 97. 155 . 80. 41. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 146. Santa Rosa Mountains. 159. 104. 75. 38. 89. 183-184. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 182-183. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. Pioneer territory. 176 wineries. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 196. 174. Mark. 85. 80-81. 62. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. hiking. 177. 20. 187. 31. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. 139-140 Treasure City. Table Mountain Wilderness. 29. Ruby Marsh. 62. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 151 Wilson Canyon. 71. 77-78. Reno-Tahoe territory. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 191 UFOs. 109 trees. 127. 193 Walker Lake. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. restaurants. 164. Lake Mead. 31. 134 Twain. 61. 145-146. horseback riding. camping. touring. camping. 179. 66. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 127. Goshute Mountains. restaurants. 110. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. Wilson Canyon. 143. Amtrak. Ely Elk Viewing Area. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 191-192. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. water sports. Earth Connections. camping. 192. hiking. 176. 162. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 152-155. camping. 160-161. 188-189. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 45. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 34-35. 190-193. 155. 144.
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