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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. pausing on . Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. Florida. According to author John Hart. Among the 50 states. as the top tourism destination in the US. half-pound hot dogs. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. however. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. These mammoths. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. which covers most of Nevada. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights.500 and 10. In fact. that’s good news. About 27 million of them. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. In fact. you’ll know better. For anyone who loves the outdoors. bison. giant sloths. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. you can have the whole wild. horses. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska.” and for good reason. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals.
The Northern Paiutes. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. Exactly 50 years later. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. shells. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. however. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. In the south. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. In the 12th century. fish hooks. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. By about 500 AD. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. followed in Garces’ footsteps. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. the first European entered Nevada. points. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. Many prime archeological sites. His party wintered in California. . hand tools. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. wetlands and springs. Jedediah Smith. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. In 1776. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. established trade routes.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. including southern Nevada.
Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. and headed over the Sierras. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. but abandoned it two years later. By 1857. dominated by the church.History n 3 In the north. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. the church established the State of Deseret. camping at Las Vegas. The Comstock Lode. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. John C. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. encountering Pyramid Lake. Nevada became a state on Halloween. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. who would later become a war hero. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. In 1843 and ’44. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. as it came to be called. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. DC. but the Utah Territory government. In 1849. In 1845. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. Eight years later the first wagon train. continued to oversee Nevada. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. with Brigham Young as governor. Introduction . entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. In 1859. and. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. Fremont. 1864. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. which helped open the gateway to the West. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. In 1833. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. In 1830. was dispatched to map the area. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). the Mormons were the first white residents. covering most of Utah and Nevada. swelling the population well into five figures. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. then returned east along the route the next year.
Howard Hughes sud- . the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. then picked up again in the early 1900s. violence escalated. In 1874. signed a treaty with the federal government. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. was of a classy. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. later known as the Nevada Test Site. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. Siegel’s vision. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. Reno and the surrounding areas. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. Carson City. Warriors under Numaga. the first true hotel-casino. bringing town sites. particularly in southern Nevada. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. but was ambushed.000 people in 1960. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. Ironically. then underground tests for 30 more. In the teens and ’20s. Streets were laid out. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. Meanwhile. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. however. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. was struck in Virginia City. the mother of all lodes. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. In 1873. chief of the Northern Paiutes. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. Winnemucca. son of Winnemucca. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. Then in 1966. opened in 1950. In 1860. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. the Big Bonanza. the Flamingo soon reopened. In 1855.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. commerce and industry. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. upscale Vegas. killed two-thirds of them. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. began making money and the boom was on. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age.
By 1970. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. The entire West will be watching what transpires. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. however. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. Mom and their 2. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. Winnemucca. How much is too much. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. To many. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. find enough water. places like Elko. . Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. and Americans have become moths to the flame. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. Fallon and Mesquite. a land dominated by a mobile population. are reaping the windfall. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. miners. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. trappers. DC. today there are master-planned communities. moving to the region in record numbers. This time. But the explosion has not been without fallout. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth.
this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Near Las Vegas. down a range. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. then disappear into their respective “sinks. In fact. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. and so on. hills and uplands. down another range. Named by explorer John C. then up another range. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. Wheeler Peak.000 feet. across a sagebrush-covered basin.839foot Matterhorn. The notion of Nevada as a flat. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. lakes.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada.000 feet in the space of a few miles. dry. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. towers over Great Basin National Park. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. In the north. Fremont in 1844. 13.063 feet. with nine ranges topping 11. Depending on who’s counting. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. the Carson and the Humboldt. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. reservoirs and other watery bodies. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. On the other side of the state. Get the idea? After all. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. Here. Nevada even has its own 10.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. gurgle through the northern part of the state. Yes. The roof of Nevada is 13. The Colorado River .” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask.000 feet to nearly 12. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers.
a great inland sea that 50.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. in the remote north near Jarbidge. natural sources of running water. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list.000-acre Great Basin National Park. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness.000 years ago covered 8. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. are the only reliable. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. In 1989. For the greens. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. Lower and drier. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. the largest alpine lake in North America. it’s an uphill climb all the way. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. establishing 77. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. In the 1970s. most notably Lake Tahoe. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. the southeastern corner of Nevada. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. only 65. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers.500 square miles of western Nevada.000 acres.
the soil supports . the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). At elevations above 6. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. Still. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. with its tiny. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. Apart from aspens. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. The squat Utah juniper. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. horsebrush and shadescale. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks.000 feet. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. such as rabbitbrush.000 feet above sea level. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges.000 and 8. is generally found throughout the state between 5. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. 14 national recreation areas. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. greasewood. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. Death Valley.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. The recommendations have been under review for years. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna.
Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. which is actually a type of yucca. lodgepole pine. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. however. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. Black bears. which make up just 1% of the land. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. prickly pear. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. In the mountains. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. ponderosa pine. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. creosote bush has an oily.000 feet. The Joshua tree. western white pine. or jimson weed. up to 5. The king of Great Basin vegetation. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . At the other extreme. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. hedgehog and barrel. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. Above the desert floor. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. blooms by night here. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. hallucinogenic sacred datura. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. Washoe pine. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin.000 years. the official state grass. The rare. along with alder. willow and dogwood. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. bristlecone pine. the mountain lion.
kangaroo rats. help comes from hunters. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. rainbow. redtailed hawk. prairie falcon. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. Meanwhile. coyote. The desert bighorn sheep. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. In the air over the desert. chuckwalla. weasel. seen on Nevada’s license plates. fox. Gambel’s quail. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. Blacktail jackrabbits. burrowing owl and canyon wren. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. brown. skunk.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. golden and Dolly Varden . Snakes include several types of rattlers. brook. with Lahontan cutthroat. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. beaver. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. America’s two poisonous spiders. greater roadrunner. pika. Ironically. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. Trout are the favorite of anglers. also live in the Mojave. while mule deer are abundant. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. the black widow and brown recluse. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. badger.
It also assumes that you will start your adventures. covering its history. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. culture and most attractive features. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. on snow and in the air. on land. on water. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. such as visitors bureaus. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. like almost every other Nevada visitor. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. A section on Touring follows. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. Cowboy Country. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. Along with detailed information on where to go. This section also includes sources for expert information. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. Reno-Tahoe Territory. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. broken down by specific locales.
. . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . Trails may be gone. . . forethought and patience. . . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. $50 to $100 $$$ . . . . . . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. .12 n Introduction ing chart. . Finally. Backpacking. . . . . . Up to $50 per day $$ . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . . Hiking. it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . . . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . . . . . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . . . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period.
Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. occasionally using hands Class 4 . the most popular among serious rock climbers.Climbing.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. As this guide goes to press. the lower numbers (.0 to . The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . . The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 .Adventures n 13 Finally. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 .6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.Boulder hopping. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. Class 2 . known as the Yosemite Decimal System. For Class 5 routes. so help is usually a long way away.14 (and sometimes beyond).0 to . ranging from . The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. using the hands. Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .Easy hiking. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.
File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. Assistance can take hours or days. not hard-and-fast rules. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. In the arid country of Nevada. one gallon per person per day is the minimum.10. climbers enter the realm of myth. If the plan changes. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. clothing. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. then amended by subsequent climbers. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. taking into account personal experience. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. Give them descriptions of yourself. legend. Don’t travel alone. By their nature. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. dehydration and lightning. Beyond that. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. Begin hiking early in the day. climbing partners. As with all outdoor activities. Be aware of conditions. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Storms are more common in the afternoon. until all holds disappear at . check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. Pack spare everything – food. use common sense before you get into trouble. Always take fresh water with you.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. n n n n n .
extra gas. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. preferably one with a large gas tank. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. tools. but a powerful. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. Arizona. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. Not one of those trendy. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. spare belts. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. high-clearance job. four-wheel-drive vehicle. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. water and fluids. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. . knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. jack. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions.
however. AZ. n If you have water. is more popular than ever. PO Box 39340. Do not ration water. The rest of Nevada. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. stay on it. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. n If water is in limited supply. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. . stay put. 85096. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. drink it as needed. in wilderness areas). left out of popular literature. minimize talking and eating. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. leave a note telling searchers who you are. when you left and where you are headed. For more information on desert survival. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. n If you find a traveled road. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. of course. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. Mountain biking in Nevada. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. Phoenix. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. contact DARES. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded.
Skydiving. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. Many streams. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. lakes and reservoirs. Fishing. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. Meanwhile. there are all types of sky-high adventures. there are tourists. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. but take extra care. Soaring Where there is Vegas. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. At these higher elevations. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. the gem of the Sierras. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . And where there are tourists. and gigantic Lake Mead. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. Ballooning. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating.
on the Colorado River. but despite the obvious danger. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. Flashfloods are the predictable result. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. For those who like to watch. although they can occur at any time of year. These storms are known to appear with little warning. Laughlin. If thunderstorms threaten. throwing rain. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. .18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. get out of lowlying areas. temperatures above 110° are common. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. Leave the high altitudes as well. Summer and early fall can be blistering. In the Great Basin.
Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. % 702-785-6500. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. NV 89502. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. 1263 South Stewart Street. % 800-NEVADA-8.travelnevada. % 702234-7331. 1100 Valley Road. 1300 South Curry Street. Reno. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. US Forest Service. % 702-687-4219. NV 89311. rainy and occasionally snowy. In the mountains. Intermountain Region. NV 89520. % 801-625-5182. too. 850 Harvard Way. NV 89703. In southern Nevada. 324 25th Street. NV 89712. . In the north. NV 89710. Baker. Reno. % 702-688-1500. Ogden. see the listings that accompany each chapter. Great Basin National Park. Capitol Complex. Nevada Department of Transportation.com. Carson City. Bureau of Land Management. windy. basin winters can be chilly. Carson City. 84401. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. Carson City. % 702-687-4384. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. UT. Nevada Division of State Parks. Nevada Commission on Tourism. www. For information on specific locales. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. Nevada Division of Wildlife.
cheap food. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past.” But step outside the hotel-casinos.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. Inside the city limits. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts.000-year-old petroglyphs. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money.000-foot peak. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. in plain view of the casinos. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. . try hiking to an 11. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. closer. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. lounge shows – and recently. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. both prehistoric and otherwise. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
Ham Concert Hall. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. but no less extravagant. Yes. 9 AM to 9 PM. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). call % 702-895-3801. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. actual cosmopolitan. giant. The tax-deductible admission is $6. % 702-895-3011. Sunday. The Barrick Museum of Natural History.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday.95 for adults. is the Liberace Museum. Seasonal streams. Just off the glittering Strip.95 for seniors and students. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. % 702-798-5595. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Admission is $4. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W.95 for adults. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. faculty and invited artists. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. Showmanship. 8 AM to 5 PM. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. % 702-363-1921.50 for seniors. Dedicated to Mr. The museum is open Monday through Friday. 10 AM to 5 PM. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . % 702-895-3381. % 702-895-3893. Southeast of the Strip. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. 1 PM to 5 PM. features work by students. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. $4. $3. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here.
Back on US 95. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . 8 AM to 11 PM. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is $4. (See below. The park is open daily. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. % 702-486-5413. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. % 702-875-4141. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). The admission is $5 per vehicle. the road to Mt. Today there is a restaurant. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. saloon. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. one-way loop drive is early morning. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. trail rides and a “real” Western town. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. 7 AM to dusk. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. The restaurant and bar are open daily. under Adventures on Foot. 8 AM to sunset. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock.) The best time to take the 13-mile. The park is open daily. have been unearthed here.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. The park is open daily. 5 PM in the winter. later during summer months. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. % 702-875-4191. wife of a German munitions tycoon. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. With structures dating back to 1864. petting zoo. Charleston.
under Adventures and Camping. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. see below under On Snow. to pick up the excellent hiking maps.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon.918 feet. In the winter. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. elevation 11. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. desolate valley. % 702-646-3401.) . There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. (See below. (See below.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. the Mt. % 702-872-7098. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. The 1. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. Bighorn sheep. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48.000 vertical feet of runs. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. under Camping. Charleston Loop. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. and its 1. completing the Mt.) Pitch a tent. Charleston Hotel. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. under On Foot.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. % 702-872-5408. At the northern edge of the reservation. 17-mile. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. Charleston Lodge. (See below. % 702385-2SKI. (See below. % 702-872-5500. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. Nevada’s state animal. A right turn leads to Las Vegas.) After the hike. under On Wheels.
% 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA.
% 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-785-8578 Alamo.
711 East Desert Inn Road. On the north side of Boulder City. 3150 Paradise Road. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. $1 for seniors and children under 16. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. Did it work? Judge for yourself. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. 1830 South Boulder Highway. Call % 800USA-RAIL. % 702-735-1616. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. Gray Line Tours. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce.50 for adults.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. The museum is open daily. NV 89109. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. % 800-332-5333. Admission is $1. % 702-294-1888. NV 89109. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. stopping downtown. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. . % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. % 702-455-7955. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. 444 Hotel Plaza.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority.
for information on camping. Holding about 9 trillion gallons.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. boating and diving. and 45 feet thick at the top. Hoover Dam took 5. % 702-293-8907. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. The cost is $5 for adults. Hoover also created Lake Mead. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. (See On Water below. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. Las Vegans. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. All of 726 feet high. 660 thick at the base. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. swimming.) Be sure to heed the . Children under 10 are free. 100 Nevada Highway. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. 89105. 89005. head back toward Boulder City. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. % 702-293-2034. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. $2. Phoenix and Los Angeles. fishing. % 702-565-8591. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. 500 South Boulder Highway.
which rests on the Virgin River. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. a public swimming and boating area. Back on Nevada 167. % 702-293-6180. nearly five miles off the highway. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. explain the geology and forces of erosion. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. Go straight to reach Henderson. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. From the visitor center. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. thank you. % 702-397-2088. Just beyond the bay. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. Beyond here.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. The displays in the visitor center. . then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina.
Saturday. campground and fishing and swimming spots. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. Admission is a $1 donation. on Lake Mojave. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. relives those days. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. The museum is open Monday through Friday. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. East of Searchlight 14 miles. South of here is camping. % 800-46-4584 . % 520-754-3272. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. % 520-754-4606. in Bullhead City. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. (For details on all three. Arizona.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. % 702-297-1464. a campground and marina. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. 125°. constructed his Riverside Casino.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. 9 AM to 1 PM. % 520-754-3399. under Adventures. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. see below.000 visitors a month. bar and bait shop. % 702-297-1682. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. % 520-754-3628. 9 AM to 5 PM. 355 Highway 95. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. the town was a gold. Named for a brand of matches. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. with motel. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. Nevada’s record-high temperature. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday.
contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. May is the busiest month. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. % 800-736-6247 United Express. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. % 800-227-5245. % 800-325-8007 Hertz.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. % 800-227-5254. % 310-448-1822. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. In Laughlin. % 702-798-6405. as many as 6. host- . Special Events February In February.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. % 800-331-1212 Budget. 1555 South Casino Drive. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. % 702-876-3380. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town.
% 702-293-2034. % 702-457-2797. October Art in the Park. % 702434-0848. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. % 702-898-6565. takes place in Vegas. blows in. floats into Laughlin. Another balloon festival.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. the International Black Heritage Festival. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. a three-day balloon rally. . % 702-452-8066. a confluence of Southern Paiute. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. % 702-293-1611. % 702687-5777. the Las Vegas Classic. % 702-8953900. and the National Finals Rodeo. % 702-293-4857. % 702-870-1221. % 800-637-1006. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. take place in Boulder City. to the campus of UNLV. Later in the month. % 702-631-7000. % 702-386-3926. % 702-457-5775. August In August. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. the Parade of Lights. Navaho and Mojave peoples. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. % 702-2939256. to town. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. % 800-227-5245. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. to the waters of Lake Mead. to downtown. % 702-4541212. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. also takes place in October. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight.
so chalk often stays put for months.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown.11b). Stratocaster (5. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. Red Rock attracts free climbers. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. The Choad Warrior (5. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Utah. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. Graveyard Waltz (5. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. At nearby Willow Springs. The area gets only four inches of rain a year. is to mountain bikers. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. At the end of a 90-minute approach.11).8). Crimson Chrysalis (5. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. so take extra precautions when adventuring here.11). Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon.12a).11+).9).11d) offers more advanced routes.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. Sheep Trail (5.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. in fact. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. Chicken Eruptus (5. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. especially in winter months. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5.11).9) has 1. To the west. Other routes in- .Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley.
918 feet. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. elevation 11. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. & For more information. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. published by the American Alpine Club. The 3. ending at a small dam and the spring. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. Following the fork. The trail switchbacks time and again. toward a ridge at 11. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. consult the Bible of local climbers. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. Rainbow Buttress (5. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads.000 feet in four miles.6). which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5.000 feet. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail.12). The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. gaining 3. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. Chockstone Press. See Outfitters. At the aforementioned fork. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road.10 or 5. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment.8) and Eagle Dance (5. an easy six-mile round-trip. to savor the 300-mile views. . all that remains of his 1920s homestead. The South Loop Trail.000 feet. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. About seven miles from the visitor center. page 41. 17 miles round-trip. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area.
the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. Beginning on a dirt road. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way.000 feet into the northeastern sky. Never take these altitudes lightly. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. thunderstorms and snow. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. Mountain T Ranch.000 feet to a saddle. To the northwest.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. gaining 1. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers.4 miles. . covering two miles and gaining 1. For trail information and weather and safety updates. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. At lower elevations. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center.000 feet above the desert. contact the US Forest Service. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. the trail climbs 1.
8201 West Charleston Boulevard. . in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. % 702-223-2176. Las Vegas. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. then go northwest to another plateau.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. % 702-254-5604. Suite 4.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. Just south of this outcrop. Stay below the northern peaks. go 6. PO Box 80875. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. % 888-86ROCKY. % 702-364-8687. % 702-434-3388. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. 89124. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. climb a gully to reach a ridge. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Climb northward up the slope. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. outlines the easiest route.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. which is marked by a post.2 miles. Las Vegas. HCR 33. heading for the northernmost outcropping. and park at the end of the road. 89180. Rocky Trails. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. ascending northwest. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. Las Vegas 89117. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. % 702-596-2953. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. Sports & Adventure Tours. Falcon Press Publishing. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. Bruce Grubbs. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. 89137. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. turn right. PO Box 1. PO Box 371324. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets.
Peak Sports. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. 89132. Las Vegas. % 702-798-6565. Desert Outfitting. % 702-383-0838. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. Desert Rock Sports. % 702-649-6819. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702-254-1143. 4065 East Patrick Lane. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. % 702387-2457. Cowboy Trail Rides. % 702-252-7114. however. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. % 702-2567433. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. % 702-458-8870. Wagons West. % 702-875-1978. PO Box 19210. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. Armed . maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702362-7177. Hahn’s World of Surplus. 617 Hoover Avenue. Silver State Old West Tours.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. At mile post 17.6 mile to a dirt road. can arrange a covered wagon trip.
go to the next intersection. zoom downhill to the fork. scanning for a cairn on the left. Turn right. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. Head downhill. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. PO Box 26589. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. a six-mile loop. For a more challenging excursion. NV 89126. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. For a tamer road trip. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. Go left here. A double track soon appears on the right. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. Turn right. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. heading uphill. make a quick right and head downhill. At the road. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. . turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. and pump uphill. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. % 702-647-5000. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. turn right. Las Vegas.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). After beginning another climb. 4765 Vegas Drive. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. flying downhill and then up to another road. Take this until you reach a double track. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. contact the Bureau of Land Management. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. before heading out. turn left to another intersection and turn right.
including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 16 Cottonwood Drive. R&R Cycling. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. % 702-876-8687. Ski Chalet. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. Turn left to return to US 15. % 702-8978287. % 702-451-9586. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. Escape the City Streets. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. 7934 Cadenza Lane. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. % 702-252-8077. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. % 702-596-2953. At about the 10-mile mark. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. . right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. Downhill Bicycle Tours. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. % 702-642-2453. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. Las Vegas Bikes USA. the byway forks. % 702-646-3401. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard.
Suite B. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. is on the premises. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. It begins. Old West Territory Tours. 713 East Ogden Street. crystal-clear hotel pool. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. % 702-380-6969. an avid angler for more than 50 years. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. % 702-454-5555. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. 89101. Rebel Adventure Tours. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. 4765 West Vegas Drive. maps and more information on backcountry byways. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. Las Vegas. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. For details. % 702-646-8800. 3700 Flamingo Road. % 888-REELRIO. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. % 702-796-9355. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. 8 AM to 11 AM. 2810 South Highland Drive. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. of all places. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. .
instruction and gear. . Forever Resorts. and two. % 800-2555561. meals and overnight lodging for $449. Off Nevada 167. % 800-34-SCUBA. jet skiing. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. (See below. largemouth bass and trout.500-acre ranch in Utah. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas.to three-days notice is required. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. about three miles across at its widest point. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). offering professional advice. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. Boulder Beach. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. water skiing. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. flows into Lake Mead. powerboats and cruisers. visit Divers’ Discount Supply.) Swimming. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. under Boating Outfitters. For details. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. The expert staff is available seven days a week. Thomas. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. rents houseboats.
where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. PO Box 100. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. 322 Lake Shore Road. PO Box 62465. % 702-565-8958. 89102. offers trips from January through November. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. Return transportation is provided by bus. 89006. Lake Mojave Farther south. PO Box 61235. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. Las Vegas. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. % 702-293-6180. 89006. The cost is about $65 per person. % 702-252-7114. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. is the local fishing and boating hub. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Calville Bay Resort. % 800-696-RAFT. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. Lake Mead Cruises. Las Vegas. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. Near Laughlin. 89124. % 702-754-3245. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. particularly near cliffs. . HCR 30. % 702-2931190.
. AZ. 1450 Newberry Drive. Overton. 520-758-6242. Overton Beach Marina. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. Fiesta Queen Cruises. Sunset Bait & Tackle. Overton. 89040. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. % 702-459-2080. Clearwater Flyfishing. % 702-5659111. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. PO Box 29279. % 702297-1464. % 800-228-9825. % 702565-0696. % 702-433-3263. 89029. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. 89040. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. 4290 Boulder Highway. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. Laughlin. Tom’s Water Skiing. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. % 702-3944000. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. 89028. Laughlin River Tours. % 702-564-5660.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. % 702-452-8299. PO Box 29279. % 702-388-1022. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. % 702-437-9283. Bullhead City.
Hackett Bungy. 161 East Rancho Drive. % 702-5657583. Arizona and Zion.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. Saturday until midnight. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. however. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. % 702-564-1558. % 702-434-0848.J. 68 Mallory Road. ext. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. The company claims more than 500. % 702-451-4004. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. 810 Circus Circus Drive. Henderson Bill Spellman. A jump is $59. With commercial balloon tours.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. 1500 Palomino Drive. noon to 9 PM. % 702-565-8396. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. Even more memorable. HB Fishing Guide Service. citing growing noise problems. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. % 702-871-1399. Karen Jones. Utah. . Jim Goff. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. 3800. % 702-385-4321. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. complete with guided ground tours and meals. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region.
806 Buchanan Street. % 800-634-6851. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. Boulder City. Las Vegas Airlines. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. 2705 Airport Drive.ultimateballoonadven. % 702-877-1010. NV 89117. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. NV 89019. 3275 Rosanna Street. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. Web site www. % 800-8-SKYDIV. 806 Buchanan Street. % 800-359-8727. % 800-446-4584. Skydive Las Vegas. Heli USA.com. 241 East Reno Avenue. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. #115-200. Jean Airport. % 702-221-9199. % 800-634-6377. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. % 702-293-1860. Air Vegas Airlines. % 702-736-0013.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. King Airelines.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. D&R Balloons. 200 Convention Center Drive. % 702-385-2SKI. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. % 800-535-4448. 89109. Sundance Helicopters. % 800-255-7474. 89005. Jean. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. PO Box 19629. Scenic Airlines. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. Set at a base elevation of 8. % 800-216-8330. Eagle Canyon Airlines. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. Las Vegas. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. Las Vegas. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs.
2395 North Rancho Road. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. % 800-272-7426. luring 200. it seems. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. $-$$$. even behemoths like the 5. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel.000-room MGM Grand. Above all. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. % 702-385-1664. over 100. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. % 702-385-5200. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. After all. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town.000 techies to Sin City. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. 18 East Fremont Street.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. The place was once part-owned by in- . Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. are booked solid on weekends. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. if possible. $-$$.000 visitors. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. 600 East Fremont Street. But somehow. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. All they do is take up space. % 702-646-0008. HO TE L Many hotels. For more serious snow.
The Four Queens. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. $$-$$$$. Monte Carlo. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). % 702-740-NYNY. across from the Fashion Show Mall. way out there. New York. the young upstarts. $-$$. Across the street is the green giant. % 702-3821600. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the MGM Grand. % 702-386-2110. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. % 702-731-7110. % 702-385-4011.037 rooms. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. The Mirage. 128 East Fremont Street. the Flamingo. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. South of here. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. % 702-732-5111. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. however. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. 202 East Fremont Street. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. If staring at wealth is your thing. $$-$$$$. The Golden Nugget. % 702-894-7111. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. Caesars Palace. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. 1 Main Street. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. who built the first casino resort. 129 East Fremont Street. % 702-385-7111. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. Down the street. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. $$-$$$$. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. $$-$$$$. Even by Vegas standards. $$$-$$$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. $$$$$. 3000 Paradise Road. New York is out there. The faux volcano. $-$$. The movie Rainman was shot here. dominate the Strip. % 702-791-7171. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. has 1. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. $$-$$$. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. is a crowd-pleaser. % 702-740-NYNY. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Next door is the Island’s big sister. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. and New York. New York.
% 800-634-3988. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. % 702-872-5408. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. positively sedate with its 5. $$-$$$$. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. $-$$$.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. Charleston Resort. $-$$. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. % 702-875-4400. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400.000. Bonnie Springs Motel.500 rooms. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. At this book goes to press. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter.000 visitors a month and climbing. set at 7. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. Charleston Hotel. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. too.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. has 2. but don’t count on that for long. . which eliminates Reno. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. while Bellagio will boast 3. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. TIP Laughlin For the most part.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. % 702-262-4555. In the Spring Mountains. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. On the outskirts of Vegas. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. contact the Chamber of Commerce. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. % 702-872-5500.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. contrary to popular belief. the Mt. % 702-735-1616.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. three Motel 6s.
and Gatsby’s. both at the MGM Grand. % 702-298-2535. offers 2. To really dine UPtown. classy Hugo’s Cellar. % 702-298-2453. % 702-733-3111. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. in the Las Vegas Hilton.000 rooms. while the Colorado Belle. % 702-385-4011. % 702735-8686. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. % 702-252-7777. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. After a few meals at most of these troughs. $-$$$. 202 Fremont Street. Café Michelle. $$$$. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. Hamada. % 702-3807711. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. Andre’s. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. % 702-298-7111. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. $-$$$. sports a railroad theme. Off the main drags. % 702-385-5016. 1650 Casino Drive. opened in 1990. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. 2121 South Casino Drive. % 702-891-7337. Andiamo. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. and Harrah’s. 3700 West Flamingo Road.500 rooms. An excellent buffet. 2000 South Casino Drive. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. and very expensive. % 702-298-4000. the Flamingo Hilton. contact the Chamber of Commerce. while the Golden Nugget. Emeril’s. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. 2300 South Casino Drive. serves upscale Italian fare. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. The Ramada Express. $-$$. % 702-298-4600. 1900 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-4200. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. % 702-298-5111. At the Flamingo Hilton. $-$$. has 1. % 702-732-5111. 2900 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-2214. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. $-$$$. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . On the Strip. Eurasian mélange. The Edgewater. 401 South 6th Street. however. Downtown at the Four Queens. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. $-$$. 1350 East Flamingo Road. 2100 South Casino Drive. Nearby. % 702-891-7374.
in the shadow of Mt. For information.400 feet. 308 West Sahara Avenue. Charleston. Near the end of Nevada 157.000 and 8. serves fine steaks and seafood. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. Phillip’s Supper House. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 4455 Paradise Road. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. % 702-693-5000. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. % 702-382-1644. % 702-363-1921. Fong’s.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. % 702733-8899. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. % 702-298-2242. call % 702-873-8800. % 702-384-4470. seven days a week. All five campgrounds have piped water. Kyle Canyon. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. is the oldest restaurant in the city. % 702-383-0007. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. having opened in 1932. is the most popular Chinese place in town. 2504 East Fremont. as the name implies. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. The Green Shack. % 702-794-0700. For satisfying American favorites. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. . % 702-873-5222. For a Latin taste. Suite Z. serves hip. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. although the Lodge. which. 3900 Paradise Road. % 702-2984600. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. so be prepared for extreme weather. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. The elevation here ranges between 7. while moderately pricey. Chin’s. Chicken is the house specialty. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr.
There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. Across the river from the Strip. % 520-754-3272. Las Vegas Territory . In Valley of Fire State Park. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. For information. For information on all five locations. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. there’s Boulder Beach. north of town on Lake Mojave. On the north shore. call % 702-646-3401. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. To the east of Vegas. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. On the Virgin River to the north. Moving north from Boulder City.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. % 702-397-2088. Calville Bay has 80 sites. % 520-7544606.
Las Vegas.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. the city of Reno is the . offers a bucolic retreat from the neon.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. just east of the California-Nevada border. Rose resorts. Heavenly and Mt. In the winter. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. Of course. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. With a surface elevation of more than 7. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. Reno. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus.000 feet. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. At the heart of this region. and for good reason. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. The Truckee River. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. the largest alpine lake in North America.
The Carson River. Farther south. North of Pyramid Lake. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. Today this mirage-come-true. Pyramid Lake. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. an ancient.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. meanwhile. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. on the shores of Washoe Lake. Fort Churchill. where everyone expects Ben. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. Washoe Lake State Park. . About 30 miles north of Reno. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. Farther east of Carson City. The place dates back to 1851. Just south of Carson City. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. are walks back in time. 8. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. which meanders – sometimes wet. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas.
Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. No. for a schedule. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory.H. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. In 1852. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. H. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. which hosts special events in warmer months. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. From Carson City. Like Vegas. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. North Virginia Street. From Reno. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. In 1863. and in 1859 C. or at least slow. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. the city continues to grow rapidly. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. From here. % 800-FOR-RENO. but Reno has somehow managed to curb.W. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. there isn’t a glass pyramid. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater.
. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. this is it. From a historical point of view.
% 702-688-1190. About 10 minutes north of the university. (See below under On Foot. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. boasts three treasures. 1650 North Virginia Street. April through October. % 702-784-4528. Great Basin Adventure. % 702784-4812. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. 10 South Lake Street. including black bears and kit foxes. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. % 702-969-3111. May Museum and Arboretum. % 702-788-3773. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. is a well-known. When arms get tired. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. The staff welcomes visitors daily. 1265 Deerlodge Road. but call first for hours. the National Automobile Museum. Fleischmann Planetarium. On the suburban south side of Reno. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. houses a theater and telescope. The Nevada Historical Society. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. % 702-7855961. % 702-333-9300. 300 North Center Street. On the northern outskirts of the city. Reno-Tahoe Territory . On the north side of the city. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. the campus of the University of Nevada. 1502 North Washington Street.) The Wilbur D.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. houses one of the world’s best collections. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. is also located here. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. turn right. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. a nifty historical theme park. has been at that location since 1946. To get there. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. Animal Ark Nature Center. And the Keck Minerals Museum. % 702-334-2600.
Enterprise. Reno Air. United Airlines. % 800-221-1212. % 800-325-8007. % 800-235-9292. Hertz. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. Thrifty. K-T Services. Dollar. Canadian Airlines. TriStar Airlines. % 800-331-1212. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. % 800-359-2472. % 800-CAR-RENT. TWA. % 800-4-SHUTTL. % 800-453-9417. % 800-225-2525. % 800-231-2222. % 702-328-6400. % 702-882-3375. % 800-435-9792. No Stress Express. % 800-527-0700. Delta Air Lines. Alaska Airlines. % 800-221-2000.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. Greyhound Lines. If you don’t have a car. Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-736-6247. Budget. Lloyd’s International. % 800-218-8777. Avis. % 800-241-6522. % 800-800-4000. America West Airlines. . % 800-367-2277. National. % 800-426-7000. Southwest Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-654-7037. Northwest Airlines. % 800-654-3131.
local. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. control erosion and acquire open land. In reality. Reno. respectively. restore forest and watersheds. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. 98 Colony Road. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. year-round outdoor playgrounds.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. is a study in contrast. % 702-329-2936. NV 89502. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . In 1861. rock. but the future of the Basin itself. 4590 South Virginia Street. a marvelous intermingling of water. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. Reno.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. provides an interesting mix of adventures. NV 89505. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. % 702-686-3030. Fortunately. At press time. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. the waters are now finding friends in high places. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. trees and sky. 405 Marsh Avenue. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. % 800-FOR-RENO. All told. in his journal Roughing It. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. % 702-831-0691. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. is a welcome respite. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. % 702-831-0494. at 10. open May through November. The north end of the beach. After the buzz of the ranch. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. along the eastern shoreline. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. (See below. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. Viewed from the highway. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. with its full slate of running water. But in between them. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. The park. Three miles south of Incline Village. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. called Diver’s Cove. restrooms and picnic areas. $5.) Up the twisting NV 431. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. % 702-849-2511. stands out amid the pines. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. Admission is $8. The beaches are open daily. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park.50 for kids. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. under On Foot. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking.50 for adults. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. is well-known to snorkelers.776 feet.
May through November. horseback riding. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. The day-use fee is $5. CA. under On Snow).66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. South Lake Tahoe. The price for such sloth is $10. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. then into the broad Washoe Valley. For information. Booming in the winter (see below. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. a nature trail circles the lake. % 702588-3508. Stateline.50 per adult. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. under Adventures and Accommodations. restaurants. At Tahoe Village. Sailing. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. canoeing. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. % 702-588-4591. offices and shops. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. This is the home port of the Dixie II. PO Box 16299. 96151. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. $6 per child.250 feet in five minutes.) For the unmechanized. (See below. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. condos. also offers excursions. under On Snow. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. NV 89449. (See below. % 800-AT-TAHOE. % 916-583-9048. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. % 702588-3000. Every summer. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . PO Box 7139.
About 30 miles south of Reno. windsurfing. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. % 702-687-4319. % 702-849-0201. Washoe Lake. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. the world’s largest silver strike. one mile south of Washoe City. US 395 slides southwest. pages 83. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. the mansion and all its furnishings. Bowers Mansion County Park. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. (See below. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. off NV 429. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. and on weekends between May and October. the boom rolled in at full throttle. a hunt that lasted 20 years.” On Halloween in 1864. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. 1851. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. camping and hiking (see below. Bowers Mansion. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. eventually lost their silver fortune. 87 and 98). The park’s centerpiece. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. When the Comstock Lode. under Adventures. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. During the wet season. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. site of Washoe Lake State Park. Camping. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory .Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. The original owners. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. was hit a year later in Virginia City. boating. About 15 miles south of Reno. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. while the blue and the gray fought in the East.000 acres. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. Washoe Lake covers about 3. In November.
68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. Open Monday through Friday. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. 101 North Carson Street. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. % 702-884-3450. Just east of the Capitol. yearround. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. 600 North Carson Street. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. The Capitol Building & Museum. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Located in the Carson City Mint building. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. Call for schedules and pick-up points. % 702687-5030. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. % 702-687-5160. the Nevada State Library & Archives. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. . which was opened in 1886. Unlike most Western capitals. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. 100 Stewart Street. exhibits of native fauna. Headquartered in nearby Minden. It’s so open. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. Admission is $3. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s.” In fact. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. in fact. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. The library contains the original state constitution. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. excepting state holidays. % 702-687-4810. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. the Capitol is open daily. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum.
% 702-884-2226. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. train rides are extra. books and permits for the surrounding area. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. % 702-883-1976.50. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). 2180 South Carson Street. 502 North Division Street. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. 1536 South Carson Street. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. 813 North Carson Street. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. and Bender House (1874). The museum is filled with period furniture. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The staff can provide trail maps. Samuel. % 702-687-6953. The office is closed Sundays. % 702-887-2174. % 702-882-1808. 5366 Snyder Avenue. The Roberts House Museum. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. 302 South Carson Street. was named for its original occupant. The building now houses a live theater.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. The St. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. On the suburban south side of Carson City. 1207 North Carson Street. Admission is $2. That classic journal. Roughing It. The Orion Clemens House. Admission is $4 for adults. % 702-826-2766. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. Bliss Mansion. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. Admission is $2. Charles-Muller Hotel. Two blocks north. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. 448 West King Street. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. The Stewart Indian Museum. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. the Carson City Brewing Company. $2 for kids. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory .
Guests can enjoy the water. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. May through October. 1900 South Carson Street. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. The place saw Nevada’s first house. Carson City. Walley’s. The museum is open daily. Genoa Bar. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. % 702-687-7410. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. to Genoa. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. % 702-782-4325. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. saunas. lies Genoa. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. Up the street. 3. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. where he is buried. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. Daily admission is $12. NV 89701. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. now long gone. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. 2001 Foothill Road. Across the street. Before the school closed in 1980. % 702-782-8155. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. first opened to tourists in 1862. the first permanent white settlement in the state. . at the foot of the Carson Range. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. weight room and tennis courts year-round. California. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. May through October. opened in 1863. The roots go back to 1851.000 students had walked its halls. As of presstime.
The otherwise barren hills. where it intersects with NV 341. boxing memorabilia.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. about eight miles south of Carson City. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. which climbs up a narrow. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. Just down US 395. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. the highway hits Topaz Lake. In Gardnerville. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. Minden was founded in 1904. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. 1440 Highway 395.200acre beauty set at 5. and their spirit built the Silver State. circus items. % 702-266-3343. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. Finally. Beyond NV 341. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. 1477 Highway 395. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. About three miles south of Gardnerville. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. Leaving Carson City. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. their sweat. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. Their riches. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. resting precariously . Virginia City. % 702-782-2555. valleys. Housed in the 1915 high school building. Gardnerville in 1879. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. a 1. % 702-782-3133. of all places. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. including Western art and portraiture.
Admission prices range from donations to $3. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. leave regularly. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. Not recommended for claustrophobes. The Marshall Mint Museum. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. Here.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. May through October. underground mine tours. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. more than 15. the Fourth Ward School on C Street.000 lived in Virginia City. Up C Street. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. Today. % 702-847-0757.000 a ton in silver. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. The building is open daily. % 702-847-0777. The Comstock Lode had been struck. Admission is $3. is a looming. and within four years. % 702847-0975. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. At the south end of town. .72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history.
Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. 3. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. Its extravagant interior. windswept plateau. % 702847-0275. The Way It Was Museum. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. After she was murdered in 1867. % 702-8470830. Open daily. has a more eclectic collection. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department.50. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. The memory of Samuel Clemens. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. % 702-8470333. % 702-847-9394. % 702-847-0766. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. The headstones and gravesites. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. is definitely not for the puritan. The Mark Twain Museum. complete with ornate chandeliers. is open daily. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. % 702-847-0525. lives on in two buildings. Admission is $2. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. for a ride into yesterday. a room in the basement of a saloon. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. June through October. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Mark Twain’s Memories. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. Admission is $2. Finally. including an old jukebox and player pianos. % 702-847-0454.
Several historic buildings survive in downtown. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. wild horses.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. The Byway’s terminus. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. After another 20 miles. including Odeon Hall. % 702-847-0311. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. or mustangs. then exit at NV 445. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. Past the intersection with NV 431. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. number about 30. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. appears in Palomino Valley. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. % 702-673-1150. % 702-577-2345. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. After about eight miles. Today. little more than a few walls remain. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. There is also a developed campground.
Another 25 miles north via paved. according to artifacts found in local caves. nine-mile-wide watering hole.000 BC. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. Camping. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. since at least 9. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. the road passes Wino. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. Tribe members administer recreation activities. boat ramp. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. this is the place to do it – unless. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. Today. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. the world’s largest playa. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. campground. From Nixon. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. If losing yourself is your goal. boating and fishing are extra. store and museum. of course. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. or dry lake bed. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. thus christening the 27-mile-long. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. Nearby. Fremont.182 feet) to the west. Spreading north and east. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. They will provide directions and hours of operation. site of the ranger station. % 702-547-0187. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. Just north of the marina. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. % 702-476-1156. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. A reservation was formalized in 1874. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. continues to surround the lake.
one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. % 503-947-3315. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. preparedness is imperative. Again. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. caution and common sense are key to traveling. birds of prey. Besides antelope. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. on 575. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. spare tire. Help can be a long way away. tow chain. songbirds. . Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. A shovel. about one mile south of NV 140. TAKE CARE In this region. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. even with one. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. and carry enough water. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here.
is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. % 702-882-1808. % 702-829-1955. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. In Carson City. % 702-847-7500. with food. is held in Sparks. bills itself as the “Wildest. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. % 800-FOR-RENO. In Gardnerville. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. % 702-353-2291. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. % 702-782-2444. The Way It Was Rodeo. In Reno. Carson Valley Days.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. the Pony Express Re-Ride. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. % 702-882-1802. is a rip-snortin’ affair. % 702-588-9658. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. Night Curves. % 702-847-0311. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. water. % 702-329-7469. % 702-883-1352. % 702-329-3877. % 702-882-1283. % 702-782-2211. Richest Rodeo in the West. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. In Virginia City. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. % 702-588-6211. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. Reno also . heats up. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. % 702-265-5281. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. % 702-687-7410. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. a rolling custom car show.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair.
the Native American Snow Dance. the notorious Burning Man Festival. deconstructionist Woodstock. % 702-329-7469. % 702-832-1606. . attracts American Indians from many Western states. The Great Italian Festival. % 702-972-6663. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. is held in Reno. In Incline Village. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-782-9711. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. % 702-827-7603. and the National Championship Air Races. % 800-535-3045. In the skies. % 702-885-6939. September The famous International Camel Races. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. the Nevada State Fair. % 702-329-1476. and the Nevada Day Parade. come to Virginia City along with a parade. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. Street Vibrations. % 702-688-5767. On the Black Rock Desert. % 702-826-1181. takes place in Carson City. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. a sort of post-modern. % 702-882-1565. gather in Minden. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-847-0311. % 702-786-5700.
Farther south. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. however. After crossing Galena Creek. then climbs to a saddle. Falcon Press Publishing.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. all 5. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8.11a). so dress appropriately. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. . Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. 1994.11a and 5. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles.000 feet. At the five-mile mark. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. are more chilling than the mountain air. including Jello Wars (5.12a opportunities. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. There are 10 routes. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village.11d) and Slayer (5. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes.14a).11c and heavier. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. including Asylum (5. Overhangs present experts with 5. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. whips around a peak. There are more than 20 routes.
which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. climbing 3. The trail ends at a highway.260 feet. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. Since the slide. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. NV 431. including great blue herons and birds of prey. for children $5. % 702-847-WALK. elevation 8. . The charge for adults is $12. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. so call first. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. as are group tours.300 feet in just six miles. % 702-6881893. the Oxbow Nature Study Area.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. This hike is certainly strenuous. After another mile. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. offers a beautiful willow. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. Hours are seasonal. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley.
as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. Yellow Hills East. For more information. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. For more information. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. as are 7. As this is being written. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. For travel information. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. Stevens Camp. For road conditions and closures. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. . turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. To reach the trailhead. CA 94620. From here. The trail. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. Madras. is a good overnight point. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. % 916-279-6101. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. contact the BLM. OR 97441. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. great horned owls and other birds of prey. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. Mahogany Mountain. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. write them at PO Box 20991. Oakland.
Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. The lakes. NV 89450. % 702-322-9559. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. % 702-333-6795. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. Bighorn Outfitting. #111. jogs through alpine meadows. 8550 White Fir Street. to the soaring summit at 9. NV 89436. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. 20 Daylily Court. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 3335 Vista Boulevard. Denio Junction. % 702-626-6916. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. Outdoor Adventures. Sparks. 1135 Terminal Way. % 702-746-6878. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. Patagonia Outlet. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. NV 89511. Look for the Knott Creek sign.200 lung-burning feet. % 702-851-1924. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. terminus of the fairly flat. % 702-623-1500. . NV 89502. gaining 2. Reno. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. Nevada Guide Service. % 702-832-5231. On the east side of the reservoir.397 feet. 490 Kietzke Lane. Incline Village. Reno. backpackers and photographers. Silver State Outfitters. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. but they might also offer their services to hikers. A steep. PO Box 6145.
Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. % 702884-3453. Twin City Surplus. % 702-831-5465. Sporting Rage. % 702-885-7773. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 4339 South Carson Street. % 702588-5664. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. In all four cases. Zephyr Cove Stables. 4375 South Carson Street. In the highlands near Mount Rose. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. Sierra Mountaineer. 1675 East 4th Street. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. % 702-323-5630. and offers picnic rides. After about three miles. % 702-849-0570.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. % 702-849-1020. % 702782-7011. which parallels North Canyon Creek. 1941 North Carson Street. Vogl Trek USA. Near Washoe Lake State Park. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. % 702-8252855. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart .Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. Strictly Scuba & More. 155 East Moana Lane. contact Tin Cup Adventures. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. % 702-849-9651. Sierra Spirit Ranch. also rents horses. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. % 702-3584824. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. % 702-8827779. call first for availability and directions. offers ranch day trips. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. the trail makes a high-altitude. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. 1201 Highway 395.
. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. depending on point of view. For detailed maps. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). 84 miles back to Gerlach. % 702-831-0494. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. don’t screw it up. Put simply. % 916-279-6101. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. to Vya. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. Continuing northwest on NV 447. The half-paved. north of Pyramid Lake. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. From here. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. or ends. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. To complete the loop. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north.
1999 South Virginia Street. & According to Jeanne L. 89502. south of Carson City. % 702827-3277. along with Canada geese in fall. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. 89509. winter and spring. 3450 Lakeside Drive. Bike Brothers. % 702-825-8258. 89502. Falcon Press Publishing. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89701. 500 North Carson Street. Reno Schwinn. % 702-8871333. 89532. % 702883-3210. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. % 702-3226001. 4135 South Virginia Street. Great Basin Bicycles. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. For more information. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. . 235 East Plumb Lane. Excell Skates. 89701. call % 702-688-1500. % 702786-5111. also known as NV 206. 1987 North Carson Street. 89502. 1993.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. 89502. Bicycle Warehouse. % 702-747-1413. % 702826-0800. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive.
1685 Highway 395 South. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. PO Box 3007. % 702-8825007. California. rents powerboats. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. Spooner Lake. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. 625 Fairview Drive. six miles south of Gardnerville. which can take up to seven hours.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. personal water craft and kayaks. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. canoes. Nevada. 89701. On the Nevada side. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. The trip. 89450. via NV 88 and CA 89. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. During spring and early summer. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. red-tailed hawks. 89423. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. Entrance fee is $3 per car. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. offers 1. % 702-588-3369. kingfishers. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. coyotes. % 702782-0867. Contact the US Forest Service. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. turkey vultures. cutthroat and rainbows. .
catfish and trout. The smaller. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. water levels. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. For the stalwart anglers. However. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. only a mile west of downtown. A better option might be Ophir Creek. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. and charges a launching fee. thanks to Sierra runoff. Idlewilde Park. There are two boat ramps. % 702-688-1500. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. % 702-6874319. For directions. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. For more adventurous angling. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. with campground and restrooms. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. planting and licensing information. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. are regularly stocked with rainbows. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. Washoe Lake State Park. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. For moving-water anglers. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. although . the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. but in wet years. both on the eastern shore. two to three miles up a steep trail. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen.
brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. The reservoir is located on private land. Rainbow. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. % 702-688-1500. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. Camping is primitive. used to separate gold and silver from ore. crappie and perch. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. boasts a handful of isolated spots. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. however. . particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. a health advisory is still in effect. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. There are two boat ramps on the lake. In his book. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. For more information. Come prepared. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. the setting here is primative. Nevada Angler’s Guide. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. Boats with outboards are permitted. under Outfitters. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. More than 100 years later. see below. while rainbow.
Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. Zephyr Cove. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. NV 89431. % 702-588-4916. % 702-827-0600.440 vertical feet of runs. Reno Fly Shop. CA. Zephyr Cove. rentals and a shuttle bus. NV 89448. PO Box 10225. Stateline. NV 89448. . Snowboarders are welcome. Reno. 96145. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. PO Box 1909. intermediate and advanced. % 916-541-5448. Mount Rose also offers lessons. % 702-322-9559. Tahoe Topliners. % 916-546-4444. 294 East Moana Lane. NV 89449. PO Box 6506. equally divided among novice.260 feet. NV 89502. The Gilly.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. With a base elevation of 8. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. NV 89502. Don’s Fishing Charters. % 702-358-6113. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno.. % 916573-0753. PO Box 815. 89502. % 702-825-2855. Tahoe City. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. 155 East Moana Lane. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. 490 Kietzke Lane. Reno. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Sparks.
all-terrain skis. % 702-749-5349. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. six surface lifts. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. 1210 Ski Way.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. For cross-country fans. % 702-7823047. Heavenly has 18 chairs. with the longest vertical drop (3.000 to 9. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. $8 after 3 PM). 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. Diamond Peak. rentals. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. rentals. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. day tours and amateur races. which include a pass. skate skis.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village.500 feet). % 702-831-8361. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. Lessons. Incline Village. This is a monster of a mountain. Heavenly. not to mention great views of the lake. lesson. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation.800) and the highest top elevation (10. Lessons. and/or snowshoes. 89451. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. NV. Snowboarders are welcome. the greatest acreage (4.000 feet above sea level. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). lessons. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. and rental. lesson. trail pass) is $34. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. . a new gondola and the famous tram.840 feet.
Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. 89502. 321 Sky Way. % 702-8269096. % 916-544-1221. Serva Ski. 2500 East 2nd Street. 89502. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. % 702-831-2922.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. PO Box 19215. Snowind Sports. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. 89502. 235 East Plumb Lane. 89451. Galena Ski Rentals. % 702-329-5358. 209 Kingsbury. Sierra Mountaineer. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. C&J Flight Aviation. Stateline House of Ski. of- . 1200 South Wells Avenue. % 702786-5111. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. 140 Vesta Street. Mogul Mouse. % 702-786-2020. South Lake Tahoe. % 702-831-3537. Excell Skates. CA 96151. % 702-849-0111. 89423. % 702-3239463. % 702-588-5935. 89502. % 702-786-7071. % 702831-3500. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 89502. In Reno. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. 89451. 89502. 515 East Moana Lane. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. 89451. % 702-358-4824. % 702-3226001. 1685 Highway 395 South.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 89502. 89502. Sundance Ski Company. 2615 Mill Street. Bobo’s Ski Shop. % 702782-0867. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak.
$$$$. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. $$$-$$$$. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. Tahoe Summit Village. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. $$$-$$$$. % 702-784-4944. % 800-99-RIDGE. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). Lake Village Vacations. Harvey’s Resort. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. $$$-$$$$. % 702-588-8571. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. eight restaurants. has 740 rooms.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. poolside service. three. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. Harrah’s.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. % 800-635-0066. 398 US 50. the Sierras and. $$$-$$$$. offers 534 rooms.. $$$$$$$. . HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. also features condo accommodations. % 800-648-3353. Lake Tahoe. of course. % 800-6483773. High Country Soaring. on this site since 1944. The Douglas County Airport. % 800-427-8397. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. a dance club. has two. 750 Wells Fargo Lane.
300 rooms and a noisy casino. The Haus Bavaria B&B. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. a rustic feel. which serves free continental breakfast. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. % 800-624-7980. $$.$$-$$$$. as well as a gym with instructor on site. 407 North Virginia Street. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. $$. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. 24 Highway 28. $$$-$$$$. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. % 800-225-6382. Today. Harrah’s. % 702-831-0287. % 702-588-6644. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino.700 rooms on 38 floors. % 800-731-6222. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. 210 North Center Street. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. Among the downtown locations. $$-$$$. % 800- . 111 Country Club Drive. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. As in Las Vegas. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. lawn games. % 800-824-6391. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. A perennial four-star winner. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. The Zephyr Cove Resort. % 800-322-7723. combines great views. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. $$-$$$. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. % 800-687-8733. the Cal-Neva Resort. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. $-$$. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. $$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. $$-$$$$. 2 Stateline Road. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. first-class. 593 North Dyer Circle. with more than 1. % 702-8321234. has 33 rooms. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms.
the Eldorado. 1901 South Virginia. % 800-320-0627. $$. two heated pools and a hair salon.000 rooms. $$$$. including a barber shop. has a heated pool. % 702-825-7134.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. the Motel 6. % 800-282-2444. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. $$. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. 600 South Carson Street. 701 East 7th Street. $$. % 702-786-4070. Freeway convenient. $$. Nearby. % 800-937-1436. % 800-723-6500. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. $$. 310 South Carson Street. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. % 800-622-1890. $$$. Motel 6. 500 North Sierra Street. $$-$$$. . the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. % 800-723-6500. Rates start at $195 per night. convention facilities and some impressive suites. It has more than 1. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. free airport shuttle and skier rates. has more than 1. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. The Atlantis. which features theme rooms. % 800-648-5966. welcomes bargain hunters. Away from downtown. Circus Circus. the new Peppermill. and Vagabond Inn. % 702-827-0255. 2707 South Virginia Street. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. $. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. an owner-built. 345 North Virginia Street. 3575 South Virginia Street. boasts nearly 600 rooms. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. 1100 Nugget Avenue. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. which overlooks the state government center. 3131 South Virginia Street. $$. The St. % 702-358-1080. $$-$$$. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. $. % 702-8821887. Charles Hotel. $$. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. a heated pool and other amenities. $$$. is a three-story. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. % 800-648-1177. most notably the Days Inn. % 702-882-3643. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. $$. 710 West Robinson Street.
1643 US 395. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. $$. 800 North Carson. including the small Genoa House Inn. % 702-882-3046. generic motels abound in Carson City. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. Pratt. 565 South D Street. is the center of the action. % 702-8825535. for weary wanderers. % 702-847-9777. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. $$. 2001 Foothill Road. $-$$. and Pioneer. 2332 Main Street. 180 Nixon Street. 8 South F Street. 907 South Carson. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. $$$. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. % 702-782-8720. $-$$. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. The Chollar Mansion. % 702-782-7644. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. #800-628-7831. % 800-321-6983. It has four rooms. % 800-962-0732. The motel has 40 rooms. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. some with kitchenettes. % 702-782-5697. two with private baths. 11 with private baths. % 702-847-0521. was built in the late 1800s. $$-$$$. $. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. the inn was built in 1872 by A.C. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. The Crooked House. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. $$. 1540 Main Street. $$$. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. % 702-847-0111. 300 Main Street. $$. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. has five rooms. 1979 US 395. % 702-782-7075. . Its four rooms were recently refurbished. 1431 Ezell Street. $-$$. 1435 US 395. $$-$$$. $-$$. There are 13 rooms. % 702-782-9711. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. % 702-557-2220. and a casino. 1627 US 395. $$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. It has four rooms.
is a rousing pub with good food. ethnic food and full buffets. serves fresh Japanese steak. % 702-588-6276. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. 1200 Razorback Road. The French cuisine is made with fresh. seasonal ingredients. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. . Open for dinner only. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. Ichiban. coffee shops. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. try the Glory Hole. a casino. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. 328 Kingsbury Grade. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. no TVs and.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. also run the gamut with delis. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. The hotels. The Chart House. 3065 West 4th Street. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. % 702-323-3200. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. the lake’s first casino. Famous Murphys. Open for dinner only. The restaurant also does its own baking. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. % 702-588-2411. 210 North Sierra Street. of course. including a seafood and oyster bar. Reservations are recommended. The place has 14 rooms. % 702-941-0371. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. 4201 West 4th Street. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. $. % 702-827-4111. % 702-588-6611. Steak. the menu changes every two months. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. along with Caesars Tahoe. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. % 702-825-1250. 3127 South Virginia Street. % 702-786-1323. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. % 702-323-5550. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp.
but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. % 702-348-9297. % 702-8262121. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. Two blocks away. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. this is the place. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. and Peppermill. dinner only on weekends. 1301 North Carson Street. 1020 North Carson Street. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. % 702-882-0486. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. % 702-8835100. 402 East William Street. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. There is also an extensive wine list. % 702-883-6261. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. South of the city center and south of the border. % 702-882-3353. Silvana’s. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. % 702882-1626. 4389 South Carson Street. 2707 South Virginia Street. Boasting a large Italian menu. The Carson Nugget Steak House. 255 North Sierra Street. % 702-785-7000. % 702-882-4556. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. seafood and steak. El Charro Avitia. 507 North Carson Street. % 702-356-3300. Adele’s. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. . 234 North Virginia. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. % 702786-5700. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. Heidi’s. 1112 North Carson Street. % 702-847-0111. % 702-689-7226. one of the top Italian eateries in country. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. the Eldorado. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. serves fine French cuisine. 1540 Main Street. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments.
California. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. Mount Rose has running water. 2500 East 2nd Street. nine for RVs. The overnight rate is $12. Big Spring Reservoir. the campground has 54 sites and running water. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. . with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. Rates run about $18 per night. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. % 702-323-3381. including Virgin Valley. call % 702266-3343. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. For information and fees. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. which straddles the Nevada-California border. for more information. There are 44 campsites here. the campground has 24 sites. The nightly fee is $5. office of the BLM. Open May through October. Open June through September. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. % 916-573-2600. Simply wonderful. 1300 West 2nd Street. On the Nevada side. % 702-322-2281. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. % 702-687-4319. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. % 702-789-2000. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. some for RVs and some for tents. Nightly fees are $6. Reno RV Park. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park.900 feet. 735 Mill Street. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. Call the Cedarville.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. Set at 8. Showers are available. % 916-279-6101. lies south of the river. % 702-8822766. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. The overnight fee is $7.
California. tore between stations.. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. wiry fellows not over eighteen. 1861. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. and Sacramento. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west.” Riders. Missouri.Pony Express Territory vada. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. Incredibly. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Joseph. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. the gutsy riders. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. pausing only long enough to change mounts. On October 24. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. willing to risk death daily. Want ads called for “Young. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. carrying only a pistol. skinny.. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. Orphans preferred. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. Beginning in April 1860. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . Bible and mail pouch. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir.
I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. this area has plenty to offer. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. Just a few hours from Ely. Ranging in elevation from 3. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. so be prepared for anything.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. But if you consider solitude. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. Near the town of Ely. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. spans some of the most beautiful. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. hiking and wildlife viewing. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. . which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. glacier-carved peaks. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. there is excellent skiing.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. ridges and valleys in the country. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. In the higher mountains. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. Great Basin. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. As might be expected.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. . They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. Admission is free. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. snowy plovers. Over 14. canvasbacks.000 years. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. (See On Water. below.000 people. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. as well as water diversion for agricultural use.000 photographic images.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. In peak years. Sunday. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. pelicans. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. green-winged teals. % 702-423-5128. In recent years. White-faced ibis. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. % 702-423-3677. 1050 South Maine Street. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. % 702-867-3500.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. January through March. April through December. With 10. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. 1000 Auction Road. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. covers 77. peregrine falcons.
Over 8.000 years ago. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. Adam Fortunate Eagle. At press time. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Besides regaling visitors with his tales.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. Pony Express Territory . From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. Every spring. More than 21. On the south end of town. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. is the artist in residence here. Just off the highway are two short trails. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. Just east of town.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. which features the famous Blue Angels. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. and “management” means hunting. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. The hunting season usually opens in October. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists.
fauna. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. If the roar of engines ever dies down. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). NV 89406. but strenuous. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. about three miles past West Gate. Fallon. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. 100 Campus Way. A hike to the precipice is a safe. 379 West William Avenue. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. listen for the mountain’s “singing. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree.” meaning sword. regularly emanate from the dune. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority.” Booms. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. dark. % 702-423-2544. % 702-423-4556. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. Fallon. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. geology and history of the region. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. NV 89406. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. volcanic cliffs around it. . n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. wild West. the low. roars and moans. Near the station.
as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. then to paved NV 376. the boom was followed by the bust. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. PO Box 1149. NV 89045. Six miles later. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. As always.350 feet. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. NV 89310. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. then climbs again to Austin. past Bob Scott campground. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. % 702-964-2200.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. population about 300. Austin. Austin is a quiet. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. However the rush began. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce.577 feet. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. Round Mountain. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. % 702-964-2145. PO Box 212. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. 13 miles east of Austin. Three miles later. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. Spencer’s Hot Springs.
At mile 30. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. The hill is located on private land.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. After merging with Lower Mine Road. The limestone cavern. PO Box 212. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. . the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides.000 years ago. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. % 702635-4000. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. PO Box 1420. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. NV 89820. experienced cavers only. Austin. near Pete’s Summit.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. At mile 55. % 702-964-2200.500 years ago. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. is recommended for serious. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. There is also a free campground here. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. NV 89310. A series of safe. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. A long. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. Battle Mountain. are open to visitors just off the road. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out.
contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. Eureka. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. Eureka’s population of 9. The shell of the building.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. But by 1890 the rush was over. Eureka. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. By 1878. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . are still a major facet of the local economy. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. and the Jackson House Hotel. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. The state’s No. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. dates from 1877. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. Not until five years later. PO Box 14. Still. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. some a little less gloriously than others. % 702-237-5484. found in the valleys around Eurkea. but most definitely worth a gander. The building. NV 89316. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. however. completed in 1880 and still in use today.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. Gold mines. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites.
PO Box 14. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore.500 residents. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. Eureka. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. A few miles farther south. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. US 50 rolls across basin and range. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. % 702-237-5484. Monday through Friday and by appointment. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. NV 89316. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. n Ely Back on US 50. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. Situated at 9. Pronounced EE-lee. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Entering town at night . about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM.000 feet. this mini-city (population about 5. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area.
% 702-728-4467. % 702-289-2085. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. furniture. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. as well as an original. Pony Express Territory . former First Lady Pat Nixon. depart on selected dates from May through September.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. a bicycle. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. There is primitive camping here. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. clothing. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. engine house. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. accessories. East Ely. Return to US 50. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. NV 89301. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. Prices start at $10 per person. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. Admission is free. 2000 Aultman Street. running water. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. Call for exact dates and times. like many museums in this territory.300 feet. Tours of the railroad yard. % 702-2894710. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. The museum. PO Box 150040. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. The White Pine Public Museum. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road.50 per person. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. showers and hiking trails. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. On the other side of town. depot. Since they went cold in the 1880s. located on East 11th Street.
1986. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. Bristlecone Convention Center. Designated a national park in October. In 1922.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. % 702-289-4865. % 702-289-8877. For more information. % 702-234-7331. Most of the 77. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. sometimes by the hundreds. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. % 800496-9350. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. 150 6th Street. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. contact the Ely office of the BLM. While hikers are welcome.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. a proposal to create a 6. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. That leads quickly to Baker. untamed backcountry. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. In the 1950s a . Only about 70. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. 636 Aultman Street. From Baker. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads.000 people a year visit the park.
Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. in 1986. $3 for juniors. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. Tours of the cavern. The high-altitude campgrounds. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. % 702-234-7331. stalagmites. below. limited to 30 people at a time. NV 89311-9702.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. which is actually one huge cavern. or speleotherms: stalactites. Finally. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. While celebrating a victory. draperies.067-foot Wheeler Peak. columns.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. (See On Foot and Camping.000. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. . Christmas and New Year’s Day. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. the park’s crown jewel. are hard to beat.000 to 44. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. Congress settled on 77. Prices are $4 for adults. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. are held every day except Thanksgiving.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. Call ahead for conditions. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. then head straight out of the park. flowstone and soda straws. Baker. among others. ski resorts and tramways. Besides checking out Lehman Caves.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months.086-acre Great Basin National Park. too.
True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. are spessartite. Bakeoven Creek. Drive three miles to the recreation area. Tierney Creek. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. which has picnic tables and shade trees. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. South Toiyabe Peak. or use paved NV 376. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. % 702-9642671.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. To reach Garnet Hill.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. The garnets found here. . Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. Set at 7. Millet Ranch. to reach the village of Kingston.600 feet. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. a few of which are even of gem quality. Carvers NW. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Arc Dome.000 feet.
From the trailhead/parking area. which heads west toward the peak. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. 1. windswept paths. nausea. If threatening clouds approach. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. a unique.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. as well as all the water you will need. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes.000-acre. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. which may be impassable when wet. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. with many trails climbing above 10. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found.000 feet along rocky. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. Pony Express Territory . Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. set aside in 1989. which at 12. Baker. The wilderness. headache. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. % 702-289-3031 for more information. is marked with trailhead signs. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. After about 10 miles of hiking.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. The trail ends just before the summit. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. and Mount Moriah. leave the high country immediately. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. This is some serious highcountry hiking.
140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. Finally.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. or cirque. the last 1.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow.063 feet. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. If it is safe to venture to the peak. then descends to Teresa Lake. the six-mile . then turn left again. This is another depression etched by a glacier. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. At 13. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. In 1878. the views of the 8. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. Continue straight. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. Use extreme caution here. The bowl. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. To reach the summit. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake.
which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. In good weather. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. subalpine conditions. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. this is a nice overnight stop. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. Wheeler Peak. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. Return the way you came. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. After about three miles. . A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove.950 years.926-foot Pyramid Peak. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. To return to the trailhead.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. Turn left. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth.700 feet in the first seven miles. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. To continue the loop hike. just off to the east. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. once the site of some mining activity.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. Around mile six. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. Kious Spring. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. Lehman Caves. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail.
J & P Auto Parts. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. 3125 Stark Lane. 701 Avenue F. 2005 Harrigan Road. 5030 Reno Highway. 89301. 203 Heritage Drive. White River Guide Service. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. Sportsworld. % 702-289-4208. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. % 702-289-8886. Flying M Stables. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. is worth a gander. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. a quartermile. HC 34. 1707 Rice Road. 89301. 89406. As of presstime. Wildlife West Guide Service. 89883. Wendover George A. 89301. % 702-423-6171. Daum. % 702-238-5232. 89406. 89406. 89406. 189 Aultman Street. PO Box 2560. % 702-2893063. % 702235-7439. 1050 Aultman Street.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. 89301. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. % 702423-9215. . 89301. PO Box 34005. sells camping and outdoor equipment. Great Basin Inn. % 702-867-3388. Box 33570. Silver State Stables. 89301. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. 89406. Burdick Guide Service. % 702-289-4468. % 702-4239215. HCR 33. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. % 702-664-2977. % 702-423-5185. % 800-874-0903.
There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. A 10-mile loop with a 1. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. NV 89310. one would think tiny Austin. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. brochures and campgrounds. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. The route runs north out of the canyon. the sixstory. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. contact the BLM. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. For more information. Austin. % 702-885-6000. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain.000 per year.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. Austin. PO Box 130. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. Dune-buggy. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. % 702-964-2671. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. NV 89310. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. For more information. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . population 300. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. PO Box 504.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles.
is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. % 702-234-7331. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. for maps. directions and road conditions. when the weather is dry. sells and services bicycles.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. past the US Forest Service station. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. % 702-289-8886. and bring plenty of water. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. . 1500 Aultman Street. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. From the pavement. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon.
Lahontan State Recreation Area. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. surrounds a 10. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. Pony Express Territory . A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. White crappie can be hooked March through May. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. In 1997. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. % 702-688-1500. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. where worms and corn are said to work best. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. Boat ramps are located in two spots. along with sportfishing. The trout limit is 10.
% 702-289-4865. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. % 702-289-4468. 1050 Aultman Street. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. % 702-289-8886. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. which feeds the lake.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. The Upper Reese River. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. via paved NV 376 and a three. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. % 702-289-3063. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. 1500 Aultman Street. 701 Avenue F. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. Great Basin Inn. and one of the best bargains. A few chain HO TE L . is one of the biggest places in town. % 702-423-6031. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. $-$$. J & P Auto Parts.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. 855 West Williams Avenue.
$$$. which has 17 rooms. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. also called Main Street here. $. a heated pool and a small casino. which has 49 rooms. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. but after a long day on the road. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. which has 30 rooms. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. who really cares. % 702-964-2471. % 702-964-2306. 180 West Williams Avenue. while on the southern edge of town. 1705 South Taylor Street. $. % 702-423-4254. $$. rates and directions. the Pony Express House. $-$$. It is open seasonally. has 17 rooms. called Main Street as it runs through town. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. $$. and.800 acres. most of which are on US 50. with 10 rooms. try Jackson House B&B. which is north-south running US 95. 115 Northwest Main Street. meals and overnight accommodations. The ranch. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. $-$$. % 702-237-5334. has 21 rooms. a heated pool and interior corridors. As you drive in from the west. $$$. The Sundown Lodge. the Lincoln Motel. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. basic equipment. The red brick structure was built in 1877. is a modern. The Eureka Motel. % 702-423-2194. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. $.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. The Nevada Belle Motel. $-$$. $-$$. the Budget Inn. % 702-9642605. $-$$. $-$$. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. 70 East Williams Avenue. the 22-room Value Inn. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. 25 North Taylor Street. % 702-423-5554. % 702-237-5577. % 702-237-5247. % 702-423-4648. % 702-964-2698. % 702-423-2277. has 27 rooms. % 702-423-5151. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. including the Comfort Inn. 1830 West Williams Avenue. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. For a real blast from the past. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. Smith Creek Ranch. On the east end of town. instruction. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. Call for information. combines a B&B with a private.
two-story hotel. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. % 702-289-8900. 1501 Avenue F. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. For a more modern taste. % 702289-6671. Ely With a population of more than 5. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. which has 19 rooms. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. which has 61 rooms. $-$$. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. The Bristlecone Motel. 220 East 11th Street. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts.300. $-$$$. % 702-289-4884. $-$$. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. % 702-289-4747. % 702-289-6665. 500 High Street. the inn has five rooms with private baths. $$. 1101 Aultman Street. After years of dormancy. $. $-$$. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. $-$$. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. $$-$$$. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. 700 Avenue I. 770 Avenue O. $-$$. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. The inn is open June through September. % 702-289-8687. located on the south side of town off US 93. and its twin. is another living antique. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. $. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. 5th .122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. % 702-2891234. % 702-289-4497. There are also private balconies. 501 Aultman Street. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. 930 Aultman Street. % 702-237-9988. % 702-289-8838. has 21 rooms. 701 Avenue I. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. the building was vacant 10 years later. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. For a more genteel stay. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel.
% 702-289-4411. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. and the White Pine Motel. $. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. Behind the Silverjack. % 702-289-3800. % 702234-7300. $-$$. $. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. It is open June through August. and two others outside of Baker. what with its 29 rooms. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. % 702-234-7343. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers.er. % 702-234-7267. with its seven rooms.. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. guided tours and off-road adventures. even fast food joints are nonexistent. % 702-289-3033. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. % 702-234-7323. along with horseback riding. is a favorite spot for travelers. The Silverjack Motel. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. Utah. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. and Whispering Elms RV Park. % 702-234-7272. NV 89311. . the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. PO Box 90. Baker. offers tipis and a campground. % 702-237-7302. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. the Border Inn. $-$$. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. 1301 Aultman Street. $. South of Baker at the national park boundary. which has a laundromat and showers. so call ahead for operating hours. $.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. % 702234-7323. 150 4th Street. 24hour laundromat and showers.. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers.
% 702-867-2769. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. have been serving great burgers. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. The International Café and Bar. is known throughout Fallon. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. The Depot Casino. % 702-964-9905. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. % 702-964-2220. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. The Mexican food at La Cocina. % 702-423-6166. Denny’s. Tony’s. % 702-423-3111. Toiyabe Café. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. % 702-867-3750. however. serves up steaks. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. The Fallon Nugget Casino. % 702-964-2493. % 702423-6828. In 1929 and ’30. 70 South Maine Street. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. % 702-423-5588. 1350 West Williams Avenue. 4150 Reno Highway. Stockman’s Casino. % 702-423-2117. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. Café Nations. including McDonald’s. 875 West Williams Avenue. including the few eateries. Smack in the center of town. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. In the 1920s and ‘30s. 1955 McClean Road. try Mary’s Owl . is home to The Diner. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. 1560 West Williams Avenue. Open for breakfast. Carol’s Country Kitchen. If your mind is on pizza.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. lunch and dinner. 125 South Maine Street. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. % 702-423-3233. specializing in omelets and steaks. 960 Auction Road. is also open for three squares a day. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. is Fallon’s only coffee house. Kentucky Fried Chicken.
2160 Aultman Street. 1455 Aultman Street. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. % 702-688-1500. % 702-964-2627. 4800 Reno Highway. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. 21. Jerry Restaurant No. and is attached to a bar. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. % 702-289-3033. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. top sirloin steak and eggs. % 702-964-2412. where the restaurants are also along US 50. % 702-237-5477. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. might as well top it off in Eureka. The Busy Bee Drive-In. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. % 702-289-6665. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. and Hubtotel RV Park. % 702-237-5280. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. has 64 sites. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. located three miles north of town on US 93. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. The Owl Club. % 702-237-5356. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. % 702-289-3905. Believe it or not. serving diner-style grub. % 702-289-4884. % 702-867-3636. 562 Aultman Street. Fallon RV Park. Lahontan State Recreation Area. % 702-289-4888. 5787 Reno Highway. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. which features prime rib. serves a fine steak sandwich. West of Fallon. % 702-867-2332. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . and Orient Express.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. is also open 24 hours a day. offers 45 sites. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. however. 701 Avenue I. 501 Aultman Street. % 702-2289-3765. % 702-289-3313. 211 5th Street. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. The Fireside Inn. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut.
as there are no services near the water. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. Open April to October. % 702-635-4000. both off of US 50. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south.500 feet. Bob Scott Campground. Austin RV Park. PO Box 1420. There is drinking water here. NV 89310. None have running water. PO Box 130. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. where there are eight campsites set at 7. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. About nine miles south of Big Creek. Austin.800 feet.300 feet. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. After a few miles. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. Battle Mountain. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. There are 10 sites here . % 702-964-1011. 24 miles east of Austin. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. No running water or firewood. Just east of town. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. then go a mile to County Road 1059. Finally. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. picnic tables and vault toilets. To reach Bird Creek campground.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. For more information and road conditions. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. set at 7. For information. North of Ely. along with campfire rings. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. which are open June through September with running water. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. Just east of the Eureka town limits. Only six miles southwest of Ely. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. There are 15 sites. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. grills. % 702-964-2671. NV 89820.
% 702-2893303. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. On the northern edge of the park. and there are no showers.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. Ely. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. To reach the campground from US 50. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. 350 8th Street. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. There are 30 sites here at 7. Set at 7. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station.886 feet. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. depending on weather conditions. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. this is the only park campground open all year. % 702-289-4865.752 feet. and Valley View RV Park. In the center of the park. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. The BLM. NV. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. Upper Lehman. Pony Express Territory . % 702-234-7331.300 feet. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. Contact the visitors center.250 feet). Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. on US 93. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. In Great Basin National Park. % 702-2893413. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. For more information. has 100 sites. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. 89301.530 feet. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. % 702-2893031.
Named Methuselah. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. Edmund Schulman. humans.700 years. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years.000-year-old duck decoys. Throughout history.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. sagebrushcovered sea. Today in Cowboy Country. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. He found one living specimen dating back 4. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. call many parts of this high country home. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. not many of them stayed around very long. reaching as high as 11. . the oldest living thing on earth. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. the state animal. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. The short. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. Desert bighorn sheep. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. who described them as “lowly old giants. however.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4.000 feet and more. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. started pulling core samples.
Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea.000 years. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. In fact. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. bikers and equestrians. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. and know how to use them. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. Winter brings rain and snow. Summers are generally hot and dry. Elko headed the list of the 100 . offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. lakes and reservoirs. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. Carry good maps and a compass. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. towns like Winnemucca. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. In 1993.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. The weather here can be as wild as the land. streams. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. bass and other gamefish.
including one named Samuel Clemens. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. combed Cowboy Country. after the riches ran out. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. In late 1860s. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. parts of which are still visible today. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. This is a place where pick-up trucks. others moved on. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. took to sheepherding. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. both held in Elko. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. but everyday tools. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. Cowboy Country . this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. But since the early days. paralleled the Humboldt River. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. followed by the doomed Donner Party. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. The famous trail. lunch and dinner. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. but thanks to new mining technology.
Five miles southwest of the shelter. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. which crosses the Humboldt River. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. about 17 miles from Lovelock. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. The seat of 6. After eight miles. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. which the company named after him. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. George Lovelock. located on the southern outskirts of town. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. arrived here in 1866. turn left on Derby Road. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter.300. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds.000-square-mile Pershing County. With a population of just over 2. which measures .
which also features the community pool. picnicperfect park. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. dark. Tufas. PO Box 821. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. NV 89419. in 1886 or 1887. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. % 702-273-2713. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. are large. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. Lovelock. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. the first ever in the Great Basin. clothing and household items. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. Admission is free. Scientific excavations. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. many of which were donated by locals. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. He may have been led there by Natchez. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. Mummified remains were found here. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. One of only two round courthouses in the country. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca.
n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. which seems close enough to touch. % 702-273-2713. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. PO Box 821. NV 89419. see below under Adventures. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. as well as opportunities for boating. About 16 families reside in Unionville. % 702-538-7321. below) and wellmanicured homes. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. For details. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It.134 n Cowboy Country vada. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). After later taking the name Mark Twain. is centered on this man-made lake. where stone . Rye Patch State Recreation Area. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. Open all year. fishing and camping. Lovelock.
The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. Edna Purviance. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. dancing.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. From here it’s five miles to the town. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. % 702-623-2912. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. Winnemucca (population 7. Curator . Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. Admission is free. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. the Humboldt Museum complex. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. a former resident. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. To reach Unionville from I-80. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. % 702/623-2225. They later brought their families. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. Today their descendants. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. a good spot for a picnic. except for lunch.
1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. There is a gift shop next door. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. was erected in 1863. The tour visits 30 sites. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. Like something out of old Mexico. % 800-962-2638. Winnemucca. one of two in the country. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. St. NV 89445. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. % 702-623-1500. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. Another gem is the Shone House. nabbing $32. NV 89445. 705 East Fourth Street. 95 Bridge Street. % 702-623-5025. but all are easily drivable. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 352 Bridge Street.000 in gold. The thieves escaped to Texas. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca.000. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. along with a thank you note. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. Winnemucca. Winnemucca. % 702623-5025. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. NV 89445. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. 602 Bridge Street. The former First National Bank. . NV 89445. US Forest Service. Winnemucca.
The camp was abandoned by 1869. established Scottsdale in 1866. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. once a busy town of more than 2. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. which . then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. and 2. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Three years later the village became Paradise City. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. which serves as a meeting place and information center. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. all but 250 people left. after fending off resident Paiutes. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. The Rochester Mining District. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. Midas is two miles from this junction. A 20th-century ghost town. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. along with the local watering hole. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. Today about 100 people live in town. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. To reach the remains of the camp. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. the town was an empty shell.300 people had moved by 1913. Jungo. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain.
obtain maps. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. beautiful high-country lake.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. The local mining. this town of about 25. however. sometimes an angler’s paradise. is easy to locate. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. A state park. 1515 Idaho Street. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. fishing and camping. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. offers a bar.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. Gas is also available. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. Just south of town. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. Paradise Saloon. biking. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. this is Cowboy Country. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. located on the extreme east end of town. The Northeastern Nevada Museum.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. % 702-7383418. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. % 702-578-3381.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. After all. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. (See Adventures. (See Adventures and Camping. % 702-623-5025. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. verdant marshes. Basque .) In town. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. It’s the white. deli and soda fountain. In Winnemucca. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front.
geography. and Sunday. % 800-331-1212. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. El Aero Services. Hertz Rent-A-Car. Harris Field. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. % 702-738-5131. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). For airport information.Touring n 139 immigrants. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. also known as J. % 800-453-9417. and a charter airline. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. . % 800-654-3131. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. 9 AM to 5 PM. % 800-8727245. 10 AM to 5 PM. % 702-738-7508.C. The Western Folklife Center. Admission is free. Deweys Rent-A-Car. 1 PM to 5 PM. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. 501 Railroad Street.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. % 702-738-7123. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. along with various other events throughout the year. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. geology and industry abound. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. Displays of local wildlife.
% 800-248-ELKO. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. 89803.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. 89801. Elko. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. Elko. passing Powerhouse picnic area.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. with elevations ranging up to 11. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. Alpine vistas. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains.387 feet at Ruby Dome. Elko. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. % 702-753-0200. % 702-738-7135.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. Elko. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. 89801. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. 90. (See Adventures and Camping. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. 89801. % 702-738-5171. 700 Moren Way. Elko Chamber of Commerce. From town. located southeast of Elko. From Elko. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. 1601 Idaho Street. 3900 East Idaho Street. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. Humboldt National Forest. At the . take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. 976 Mountain City Highway. fishing and camping in the entire West. including the remote. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8.800 feet).
gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. For access to both. the road meets the Jarbidge River.Touring n 141 crest. U-shaped valley. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. then north another 25 miles. is visible in the west. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. so drive cautiously. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. or call them at % 702-488-2315. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. For details on all of this. down into Jarbidge Canyon. More than 1. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. The road leads east 21 miles. turns south. see below. is spectacular. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. this town sticks to Mountain Time. Idaho. (See On Foot. From the south. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. and by the 1930s the rush was over. a high clearance vehicle is required. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border.500 people flooded into the region. and there’s no argument here. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. Even when they are open. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. Yes.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. Ruby Dome. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. rising 11.387 feet. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. check with the owners of the Trading Post. From Wells. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. Nevada. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. . making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail.
displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. the 44.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. Before entering town. Bonneville Speedway Museum. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . head east from the border. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. the main difference between the two sides being. The town was abandoned in 1942. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 4 and go five miles northeast. and the 37. reached easily via a paved highway.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. the main artery running up the east side of the state. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. % 801-665-7721. For ghost town fans. stare out across the famous. The range is also home to Angel Lake. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. To access the flats. try Stuart’s Foodtown. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. This is also the junction of US 93.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. the presence of casinos. which rises to 11. % 702-752-3215. n Wendover From Wells. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. 647 Humboldt Avenue. Sunday until 9 PM. however. of course. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. exit at No. n Wells From Elko. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies.) On the Utah side of the state line. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. both available at the Trading Post. Cool.
% 702-664-3414. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow.000 buckaroos.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. Eagles. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. which attracts upwards of 10. The night before the events. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. falcons and ospreys are common. which gains 1. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. hawks. June Both hay. the historic World War II B-29s. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. is held in late March or early April. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. a . Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. February Wells holds its annual chariot races.600 feet in two miles.
call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. July In July. Phone numbers can be found above. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month.or 23-mile loop. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. In Wendover. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. The largest Basque get-together in the US. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca.. . hear the music and eat the food. featuring food. a parade and feats of strength. Near Wendover. when tanks.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. For details. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. The town of McDermitt. six. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. There is a traditional dance contest. call % 702-635-8245. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. Unless otherwise indicated. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. under Touring. dancing.
Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. willow and cottonwood country. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. Pronghorn antelope. climbing more than 4. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. crossing Buffalo Creek. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95.000 feet in four miles. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest.732) is the highest point. From here. Aspen. which . The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. passable by high-clearance vehicles.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. This makes for a great loop drive. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. Chartered in 1989. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. The first half of the moderately strenous.834 feet). lupine and leopard lilly are common here. the road.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. Falcon Press Publishing. Granite Peak (elevation 9. 1994. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. The trailhead appears after three miles. To reach the trail. To reach the trailhead. Star Peak. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail.200 feet. Star Peak (elevation 9. including the 31. From the top. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. The trail is punishing. leads due east toward the highest point. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles.
where you turn south. % 702-623-5025. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. USGS 7.6 miles to a parking area. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. Horses are welcome on these trails. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit.” Elevations range from 6. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). depending on weather conditions. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. Mountain lions. narrow canyons. big horn sheep. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. Return the way you came. cirque basins.415).387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. Come prepared for anything. about one mile south of town. glacial lakes. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. including Singas Creek. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. more than 10. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek.800 feet above sea . can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. descends toward a watercourse. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. Hikers can visit rock peaks. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads.
300-foot . The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. set at 9. Hyslop. % 702-738-7135. Franklin Lake NW. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. as there are no trout here. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. of course. The 1. this is the high point of the trek.500 feet. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. know this region as well as anyone. and his dog Molly.400 feet. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. At 10. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. % 702-752-3357. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. so check road conditions before heading out.Adventures n 147 level. Feel free. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. The five-mile. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. After about a mile and a half.400 feet and heads north. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. Pause to rest but not to fish. From Roads End. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. The pass is often closed in winter.
making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. the closest town. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. On a good day. Just past the spring. Wild- . Unfortunately. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. The trail drops again.700 feet. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. Most of the paths are found in the 113. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. Idaho. From the trailhead. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. subalpine forests.000 feet to 10.000-foot mark. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. Return the way you came. Finally. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. and everything is open year-round. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. mountain whitefish. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. call % 702-758-6493. The site has a paved boat ramp. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. is also a good fishing spot.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. To reach the lake from Elko. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. and black bass have become a favorite catch. % 702-623-5025. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. Channel cats. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. brown and rainbow trout. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . supports brook. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. campsites and restrooms. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. For more information. rainbows. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko.
The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. contact the US Forest Service. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. Within six miles of the trailhead. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. great sandhill crane. white-faced ibis. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End.800 feet. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. so check road conditions before heading out. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. % 702-738-5171. At the foot of the range. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. short-eared owl and American kestrel. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko.154 n Cowboy Country ers. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. To reach the refuge from Elko. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. Turn left and head south 32 miles. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. For an easier drive from Wells. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. including bald and golden eagle. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells.000 acres. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. trumpeter swam. For more information. midway between the northern and southern portions. Angel Lake Near Wells. elevation 8. . Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road.
making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. 89801. % 702-625-2453. 89801. are the best bets here. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. % 702-664-3414. PO Box 515. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. % 702779-2226. % 702-7442277. 89801. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. % 702-7388473. the bowcut trout. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. In warmer months. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. catfish. Rainbow. To reach the 2.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. Grandview Marine. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. 423 South Bridge Street. % 702-777-DIVE. 2511 Mountain City Highway. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. 89833. 1250 Lamoille Highway. % 702779-2268. the spring-fed. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. 89833. % 702-7382775. Raley’s. Secret Pass Outfitters. Elko Guide Service. PO Box 685. crystalline Blue Lakes. HC30 Box 17 #13. For more information.400-acre lake. HC 60. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. 89801. 285 12th Street. HC 60. have become a local haven for divers.
depending on snowfall. there is a trout stream and pond near the property.200 feet. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. Lunch and dinner are extra. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. . offers 130 acres of terrain. $$$. is the most happening place in town. covering 5. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. % 702-538-7585. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. 1420 Cornell Avenue. lounge. % 800-528-1234.000 acres of skiable mountain. then head west for five miles to town. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. ranging from 5. % 702-753-6867. % 702-738-7135. Trips are limited to 16 people. not to mention 74 rooms. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. 2805 Unionville Road. $-$$.500 feet. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. one tame and the other decidedly not so.500 to 6. Elko SnoBowl. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. % 702-273-2937. The Lovelock Inn. 55 Cornell Avenue. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. $$. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. To reach the ranch from I80. with a 24-hour casino. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. is convenient to I-80. restaurant. lodging and all the extras. The outfit boasts 5. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food.200 vertical feet. pool and jacuzzi. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. Although there isn’t a television to be found. The Best Western Sturgeon’s.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region.
% 702-623-5248. 837 Idaho Street. $$. with 150 rooms. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. The Gold Country Inn. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. % 800-645-5658. % 702-623-1180. 400 1st Street. and the Motel 6. 2050 Idaho Street. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. $$. $-$$. the 170-room Holiday Inn. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. a pool and 223 rooms. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. eateries. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. % 800-633-6435. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$. The Red Lion not only has a casino. There are also two Best Westerns. 1930 Idaho Street. is for you. $$-$$$$. starting with the two biggies. % 702-625-1818. offers 40 rooms. and the generic. $$. % 800-545-0044. the Red Lion Inn. basic motels on the main drag. the Gold Country Motor Inn. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. Casino Express. $$-$$$. % 702-623-3646. $$. offering 70 rooms. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 800-262-8901. % 702-738-8421. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-3661. $-$$. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. restaurant and bar. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. and the Holiday Motel. % 702-738-8787. $$$. including the queen of Elko establishments. 2065 Idaho Street. the Red Lion Inn. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-1116. There are plenty of cheap. $$. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. restaurant and full bar. $-$$. the Ameritel Inn Elko. and the Model T Motel. $$$$$. % 800-346-5306.000. but also its own charter airline. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. in- . The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). casino. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the 80-room Val-U Inn. a lounge with live entertainment. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. $-$$. % 702-7387261. the Super 8. $$-$$$. % 702-738-8425. and the Days Inn. 3015 Idaho Street.
There is even space for campers and RVers. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. $-$$. PO Box 281381. $$$$. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. % 702-578-3530. detached cabin with jacuzzi. $$$-$$$$. along with a pool. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. some with kitchenettes. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. The Shilo Inn. 2401 Mountain City Highway. $$$-$$$$. $-$$. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. There are 141 rooms. bar and pool. Red’s Ranch. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. 340 Commercial Street. is an exclusive. jacuzzi and fitness center. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. restaurants. % 702-753-6356. Just outside of Lamoille. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. PO Box 281208. hiking and fly fishing. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. 345 Idaho Street. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. and the Thunderbird Motel. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. % 702-753-6281. $$$-$$$$. Stockmen’s Hotel. $$. Jiggs Guest Ranch. $$-$$$. $$-$$$. % 702-738-8488. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. a swimming pool. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. Away from Idaho Street. % 702-753-6363. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. Lamoille. 1755 Idaho Street. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. 89828. biking and horseback riding. including skeet shooting. $$. . % 702-738-5522. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. Stonehouse Country Inn. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. % 702-738-5141. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. has 70 rooms. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. $-$$. % 702-738-7115.
There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. Cottonwood Ranch. 576 6th Street.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. There are more than 1. 326 6th Street. 456 6th Street. The Super 8. $. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. % 702-752-2151. 1250 East 6th Street. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. the Chinatown Motel. % 702-488-2311. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. the Outdoor Inn. $$-$$$. HC 62. 89826. There are 57 rooms. For more information. and the Best Western Sage Motel. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. Together . % 702-752-2277. % 702-752-3888. PO Box 1300. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. On Main Street. On the north side of town. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. $-$$. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. % 702-752-3384. $-$$. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. PO Box 260090. and the Old West Inn. even by the neighbors in Utah. % 800-848-7300. PO Box 300. most of them planted along 6th Street. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. offers another 24 rooms. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. % 702-488-2315. HC 62. If not. % 702-752-2116. which also has a restaurant and bar. $-$$$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. Down the street. % 702-752-3353. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. $. if you’re into chains. % 702-752-3604. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. $. $-$$. 100 Wendover Boulevard. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. Jarbidge. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. $-$$. $$-$$$. the Rest Inn Suites. 930 6th Street. % 702-4082338. % 702-752-2101. has 56 rooms. % 702-7523065. $. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. $$$-$$$$.
Mexican food and pizza. a health club. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. 680 Wendover Boulevard. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. leg of lamb. live showroom entertainment. 1420 Cornell Avenue. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. and until 2 PM on Sunday. which has live entertainment. $-$$. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. $$-$$$. % 702-273-3232. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. 9 PM on Sunday. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. is open until 10 PM every day. 260 Maine Street. $$. . lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. the Super 8. along with daily specials. live entertainment. restaurants. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. pool and jacuzzi. % 702-273-7444. offers breakfast. including restaurants and lounges. The Peppermill Hotel. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. serving steak. pool. % 702-273-2442. % 702-664-2888. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. % 800-537-0207. which basks in the Basque tradition. Wee B’s Pizza & More. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-273-2971. % 702-273-7773. lounges. La Casita. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. with 90 rooms. a 14. Nearby. shrimp and Basque side dishes. and Pizza Factory. jacuzzi. is another gamer’s haven. tennis courts. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other.000-square-foot casino. 750 Cornell Avenue. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. In the center of town. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. % 800-648-9660. lunch and dinner. % 702-623-3197. 410 Cornell Avenue. 485 Cornell Avenue.
It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. while The Griddle. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. % 702-738-9691. seafood and chicken. 405 Silver Street. all of their meat is cut to order. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. since 1863. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. 1550 Idaho Street. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Stockmen’s Hotel. The atmosphere is definitely casual. 340 Commercial Street. . This being ranch country. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. Elko The Red Lion Inn. % 702-738-3214. % 702-623-3455. % 702-623-2977.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. 1061 West Fourth Street. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. % 702-623-6777. 2065 Idaho Street. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. home of the world’s largest potato field. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. Restaurante San Fermin. Specializing in steak. % 702-625-2555. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. Toki Ona. % 702-623-2908. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. % 702-738-5141. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. Another Basque establishment. 95 South Bridge Street. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. % 702-623-4104. 180 Melarkey Street. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. The Steak House. but get there before 1 PM. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. China Garden. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. % 702-623-4440. % 800-545-0044.
has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. . opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. % 702-488-2311. opens daily at 11 AM. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. Pine Lodge. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. % 702-752-3210. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. Prices range from moderate to expensive. depending on weather conditions. delivers on its name. Pizza Barn. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. 1740 Mountain City Highway. % 702-753-3877. Main and Humboldt Streets. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). % 702-738-7088. Burger Bar. % 702-738-7898. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. also serves hearty meals.300 souls. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. % 702-4882315. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. where it survived The Big One in ’06. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. 2525 Mountain City Highway. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. 9 Beans and a Burrito. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. 217 Idaho Street. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. % 702-7382541. % 702-753-6356. to peruse the ornate bar. If you crave Mexican food. 780 Commercial Street. La Fiesta. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. % 702-738-1622. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. % 702-753-6363. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch.
offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells.400 feet. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. which holds trout and walleye. 22 miles north of Lovelock. 23. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. the area has two campgrounds. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. two beautiful US Forest Service . call % 702-738-5171. For modern hunter-gatherers. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. offer 12 different restaurants. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. The local creek runs in spring and early summer.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir.600 feet. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. $8 for a two-family site. 100 Wendover Boulevard. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. There is running water and vault toilets. The main draw here is 11. For more information. The other one.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. The Peppermill Hotel. The fee is $7 per night. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. just north of the dam. Set at 7. % 800-648-9660. For more information. $3 per night in winter. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. located at the end of Hanson Street. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. Fees are $7 per night in summer. Sites 22. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. 27 and 29 are especially good. % 800-848-7300. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. Set at 7. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. 680 Wendover Boulevard. call % 800-962-2638. For more information. call % 702-538-7321. 25.
Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. first-served sites. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. with running water. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. including three run by the US Forest Service. For information on the above campgrounds. all free. and the fee is $7 per night. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest.900 feet. depending on the availability of running water. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. The cabins are open October through mid-May. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. About five miles up NV 225. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. offering 18 sites with running water. The fee is $5 per night. Set at 8. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. and the fee is $8 per night. % 208-5434129. % 702-752-3357.500 feet. and are open June to October. The campground. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. One mile north of town. has 37 first-come. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. Angel Creek is set at 6. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. but no running water. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. .800 feet and is popular with anglers. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. For more information. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water.
and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. writer. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. like Belmont and Rhyolite. Others. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. both socially and physically. who once roamed this entire area. Meanwhile. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. are in a state of “arrested decay. however. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. an 11. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. US For- B Pioneer Territory . marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
Geographically. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. Rocky Mountain elk. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Toiyabe.Touring n 167 est Service. then limber pine at higher elevations. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. low taxes. In the Mojave Desert. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. People and services are scarce. Department of Defense. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards.000. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. affordable housing . and six state parks to explore. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. Nevada Division of State Parks. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. but the rest of the country. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. In the lowlands. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country.
Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. On the south end of town in a modern. It’s also one of the hottest. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. % 702-7270896. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. According to Winona LaDuke. 1771 Sagehen Road. authorizing up to 90. contact the Chamber of Commerce. blue and white building. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. % 702-751-0821. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. 1141 South Highway 160. only winery in Nevada.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . is the first and. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. % 702-7276900. mission-style. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. 3810 Winery Road. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. there’s no competition). making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. In 1997.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. The 22. as of this writing. % 702-727-5800.
giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. NV 89020.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service.300 spread over 545 square miles. Visitors can. snipe. % 702-372-5435. for some handmade Mexican food. great blue herons. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. coots. whitefaced ibises. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. . which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. then head west for about 20 miles. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. It’s no easy job. % 702-372-1131. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. mallards. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. including ducks. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. inaccessible to the general public. HCR 70. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. and the second-greatest in all of North America. prairie falcons. moorhens. coyotes and rabbits. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. Box 610Z. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. however. Amargosa Valley. following the signs to Ash Meadows.
Now recognized as a state historic site.000 claims over 30 square miles. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. Amargosa Valley. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. the gray. 19 hotels.000. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. . and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Kelly’s Bottle House.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. 50 saloons. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. HC 70. PO Box 6102. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. % 702-5532200. % 702-3725459. and the old train depot. for more information.000. three newspapers. NV 89020. maps.
the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. life-size. By 1920. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information.000. however.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. crystal chandeliers. % 702-553-2424. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. . who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite.” a collection of white. keeping a population of more than 20. In the first decade of the 20th century. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here.000 dizzy with gold fever. when the money ran dry. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. Local residents were used as models. constructed in 1908 for $500. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. Goldfield Founded in 1902. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. Once the largest city in the state. turn-of-the-century frontier community. Today the remains of stone buildings.
Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. and spend a few hours following its trail. Before heading out. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. and east-west-running US 6. % 702-482-9676.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. however. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. % 702-485-6365. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. built in 1908 and still in use today. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. including the old post office that is now the local museum. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. % 702482-3558. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. the Central Nevada Museum. . the town of Gold Point is still breathing. 301 Brougher Avenue. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774.
For more on these wonderful regions. including a map room. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. The museum is open daily. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. Mineral. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. the town exploded – figuratively – and . Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. As this is being written. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. which total more than 260.000 acres. A library. which helped put the state on the map. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. slide show and research facilities. and the 1907 George A. 9 AM to 5 PM. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. which dates to 1906. Bartlett House. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. power plants.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. As a judge. with Hawthorne the new seat. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. call % 702-482-5355. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. Admission is free. see below under On Foot. Located on the north edge of town. photographs and exhibits. For more information. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. ore bins. Like many Nevada locales. In 1911. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. are available by special request. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor.
but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. noon to 4 PM in winter. however. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. To see where it all started. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. The Mineral County Museum. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Admission is free. restaurant and Native American gift shop. minerals. Victorian furniture. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps.) Before heading to the lake. and by 1890 the good times were over. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. the town boasted 1. wildlife and fossils. Nevada seat and the Mono . (See On Water. just three miles from the California border. Near the northern tip of the lake. The main attraction. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. at the corner of 10th and D streets. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. cameras and photography.000 residents.000. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. below. Take this road six miles to the town. rocks. 898 E Street. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. fire and railroad equipment. At the zenith of its existence. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. is nearby Walker Lake. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. % 702-945-3266. paved road on the right. a combination truck stop. To reach Candelaria. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. % 702-945-5142.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14.500 people. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. From . winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. along with many other events. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. is open year-round. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. There are 42 campsites. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. % 702-728-4467. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. pinyon and juniper forests. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. The park. Boats are not recommended. set at 5. From Caliente.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. native plants and unique rock formations. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. All of them offer overnight camping. but travel is not advised during winter months. The 2. below). State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. For information on any or all.200 feet. located in a long.
From Caliente. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. hazy afternoon. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years.000. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. % 702-962-5215. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. There are 37 campsites. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. men in black and all things conspiratorial. All told. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. for a walking/driving tour map. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. government cover-ups. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. The original building costs totaled $16. Packed with historic points of interest. Winter travelers might also find snow here. they ran up to $1 million. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. true believers theorize. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill.
were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. % 702-729-2515. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. sleeping quarters. including the old mill. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. a bar and cemetery. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. Ichthyosaurs. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. or fish lizards. selling souvenirs and literature. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. a thought scarier than any little green men. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. The park is open all year. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. If you’re in the neighborhood.
call % 702-867-3001. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. From here go seven miles to a junction. mountain lion. deer. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. the highest point in Nevada at 13. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. The trail climbs nearly 2. then half a mile east. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. From here. April. The trail seems faint at times. where desert bighorn sheep. June. elk. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. travel west six miles to NV 773. October and November. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. The hike begins on the road. turn right.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. July. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. Return the way you came. Interpretive tours are held in March. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. August.000 feet in 3½ miles. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. following a stream into Trail Canyon. For more information. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. up through the sparse forest of . There are numerous access points to the 115. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. to NV 884. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. through Gabbs. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. Located in the relatively dry. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. To reach the park from Hawthorne. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle.140 feet. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side.
The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. up and up alongside the South Twin River. About 500 yards beyond the mill. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. pinyon pine and juniper. another narrow. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. . The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it.020-foot Peavine Peak. The path descends further. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). the trail gains 1. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. Consult Toms Canyon.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak.361-foot Arc Dome. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. and at higher elevations. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The 38. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. USGS quads for Carvers NW. limber pine. where it crosses the water several times. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. About a mile and a half later. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. nine miles from the trailhead. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. The main trail leads straight ahead. Pine Creek. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. too. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail.
the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. literally and figuratively. is imposing Mount Jefferson. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. After turning west.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. In fact. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. Turn left and head toward the highest point. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. mountain lion. The high point. From Tonopah. . Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. deer and coyote. going west. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. is lined with aspen and birch. south. The summit trail. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. which marks the way to Pine Creek. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk.000 years ago. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. Return the way you came. It was used as a hunting camp 5.949 feet above sea level. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. 11. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. which tops out at 11. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful.
so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. so travel with care. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. The main trail continues straight ahead. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory .Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness.856foot Monitor Peak. rugged country. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. Hikers should have maps and a compass. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. Elk. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. climbing up the creek drainage. As you’ll see. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. From the trailhead. The trail first splits at mile three. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. This is remote. with Dry Lake off to the west. To complete a nice loop hike.000 acres. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. set aside in 1989. The 98. and the skills to use them. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands.
the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. Wilderness Press. then continue south two miles back to the campground. some will lead hikes and photography trips. % 702-4826286. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. Meanwhile. White’s masterful book. then descending into Ash Canyon. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. refer to Michael C. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. Enjoy the views. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Once atop the plateau. Also close by. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. 1997. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. crosses the water and begins a steep. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. in Echo Canyon State Park. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. . the route goes generally north and east to a junction.
Expeditions Unlimited. PO Box 725. Galvin. 89049. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. 8½ miles from US 95. PO Box 65. you’ve gone too far. Jr. 89430. Berg. % 702-964-1207. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. % 702-964-2145. Mason Valley Guide Service. The road turns east briefly. then continues south to a junction. Box 77206. 89317. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. PO Box 1149. 89447. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. Moapa Adam R. 89045. PO Box 428. % 702-482-6422. Timberline Outfitters. 89049. climbing into a small valley. Round Mountain William A. 27 Smith Gage Road. Timberline Outfitters. 89045. turn left and head due south. PO Box 168.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. % 702-482-6258. at 9. Howard. % 702-465-2598.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. (If you pass Millers.. % 702-283-7797. Lewis. James S. Just beyond the right-of-way. Lund Gary Luisetti. Smith. leaving a strenuous. Mustang Outfitters. Roy Lerg. . a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. Stahl. % 702-463-4497. Nicholas Perchetti. which. Grand Slam Safaris. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters.108 feet. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. unmarked hike to the summit. 89025. PO Box 162. HCR 60. Yerington Marty S. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain.
is open for business on weekends. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. The other ruins are on private property. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. Continuing north. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. The Belmont Saloon. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote .000 to construct in 1876.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. which was first settled in the 1860s. Manhattan boomed. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. so keep your distance. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. however. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. and Pine Creek. Just north of Pine Creek. Belmont saw most of the 2. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. known for abundant wildlife. % 702377-2490. A few dozen people still live in the area. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. % 702-482-6331. For road conditions. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908.
Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. Wilson National Back Country Byway. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. Take an unpaved road . but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. As tempting as a bath might seem.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. Continuing north. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. stay out. . and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. to establish missions. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. but check on road conditions before you go. Pioneer Territory Mt. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. the fauna changes to ponderosa. Not only is the water very hot. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range.2 mile west of Lockes going south. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. The springs are half a mile away. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. % 702-482-7800. mountain mahogany and aspen. From Pioche. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. then part of Utah Territory. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. For more information contact the BLM.
Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. 13. % 702289-4865. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. Two of the best spots are Peavine . 5340 South Oakridge Road. % 702-727-8276. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout.140-foot Boundary Peak. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. % 702727-4504. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. brown. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. Information Sources For more information and a map. At Oakridge Landing. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. Just a mile north of Dyer. contact the BLM. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. cutthroat and rainbow trout.
In fact. however.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. The lake is named for Joe Walker. Covering 37.7 miles north of Hawthorne). About 70 miles north of Tonopah. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. . while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. Beginning at the southern end of the lake.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. Fishing derbies are held in February. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). The very future of Walker Lake is threatened.4 miles). After the road peters out. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. rainbow and brown trout. % 702-482-6286. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival.000 acres.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. October and November. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. April. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). picnic facilities and boat ramp. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California.
Howe. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. are the main attraction here. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. Brown trout. Hawthorne. % 702-725-3417. which are stocked in spring and fall. CA. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. % 760-872-2533 . 93514. while Canada geese. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. % 702-394-4040. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. but motors are prohibited. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. Contact the refuge office. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. NV 89415. largemouth bass and white crappie.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. write the group at PO Box 867. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. Kathleen L. Bishop. Boaters are welcome. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here.000 acres. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. Classic Anglers. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). about 13 miles south of the confluence. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. 633 Schley Street. for details.
Timberline Outfitters. Berg. % 702-3721717. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. HCR 60. Mustang Outfitters. % 702-964-2145.. Tonopah Stanley R. 89049. PO Box 1149. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. at least temporarily. Jr. The big enchilada is Saddle West. Timberline Outfitters. Galvin. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. % 702-964-1207. 1220 South Highway 160. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. 89045. PO Box 65. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. % 702-482-6258. James S. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. % 702-889-8844. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. The family-style outings. 89049. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. Nicholas Perchetti. Box 77206. home on the range. 89447. Howard. Suite 9B. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. PO Box 168. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. PO Box 725. 89104. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. 89045. Stahl. % 702-482-6422. Advance reservations are highly suggested. Mason Valley Guide Service.
Don’t worry. 604 Main Street. % 702-727-5445. has 32 rooms. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. . it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. which has 30 rooms and a pool. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. a convenience store. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. $. A lounge with live entertainment. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. % 800-508-9493. a restaurant. $. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. casino and lounge. was built in 1905. $-$$.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. 1201 South Highway 160. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. non-smoking rooms and a pool. $-$$. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. The other two motels are the El Portal. US 95 at First Street. $-$$. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. 9000 North 5th Avenue. % 702-553-2250. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. while the inn offers laundry services. % 702553-2912. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. $-$$. With 110 rooms. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. % 702-553-2333. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. along with a pool and honeymoon room. % 702-553-2225. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. Highway 160 at Loop Road. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. % 702-727-5100. $-$$. lounge. In short. $-$$. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. % 702-4853431. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. a casino with live 21. There are 60 rooms. though. The Exchange Club Motel. 420 West Main Street. including a heated pool. $-$$. $-$$. hair salon.
It has 94 rooms. 521 North Main Street. % 702-482-6291. RV hookups. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. $. has been catering to travelers since 1943. including four two-bedroom units. 1402 5th Street. This place has it all: 75 rooms. a restaurant and free coffee. lounge with entertainment. pool and free in-room coffee. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. 323 Main Street. % 702-482-6238. Even dogs are welcome. $. arcade and laundry. Dating back to 1908. The Best Western Desert Lodge. % 702-945-3321. 100 South Main Street.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. If you’re into chains. the Butler has 25 rooms. % 702-482-9777. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. % 702-945-2444. with a restaurant. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. a casino. $. Some of the larger. at very reasonable rates. $. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. $. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. The Jim Butler Motel. % 702-945-3352. 540 F Street. restaurants. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. % 702-482-3577. RV parking and free continental breakfast. $. 100 North Main Street. location. % 702-482-6202. 255 Main Street. comes highly rated. Just a block away. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. $-$$. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. $. % 702482-5920. There are 103 rooms. a restaurant and bar. $$. two restaurants. workout equipment. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. a casino. % 702-945-2660. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. 826 Main Street. Adjacent to Walker Lake. lounge. 1301 5th Street. The . has 39 rooms. 1 Cliff House Road. 1100 Main Street. and the 33-room Clown Motel. 700 Main Street. Location. a Jacuzzi and a pool. also has a pool. a heated pool and a small play area. free movies and is close to the convention center. % 702-482-3511. and the sprawling Station House. with 40 rooms. $. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. $. % 702-482-6224. which has 93 rooms. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. $$.
The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. $$-$$$. % 800-896-4567. 694 Sierra Highway.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. which at last count had 1. has five rooms. a 925-seat showroom. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. $-$$. $. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. tennis courts. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. 720 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-2573. % 702-945-2143. 390 North Sandhill Road. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. $. 39 North Center Street. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. Just west of Smith in Wellington. % 702-463-2991. pool and movie theater. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. 2827 Highway 208. live entertainment. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. % 702-346-7444. % 702-465-2959. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. $$. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. a pool and a hot tub. % 702-465-2573. Run by the Masini family. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. % 702-945-2544. has 67 rooms. restaurants. pool. various restaurants. with blueprints for hundreds more. 11 North Main Street. % 800-346-7721. % 702-463-2998. 301 Mesa Boulevard. % 800-346-4611. entertainment. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. $-$$$.900 or so residents. has 700 rooms. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. and the Rocket. formerly Players Island. a lounge. $. bars. % 702-465-2341. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. with a 24-hour casino. $. a golf course. RV park and four bungalows. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. pool. which has 14 rooms. $-$$. Jacuzzi. which has 14 rooms. a pool. bowling alley. $$. airport shuttle. movie theater and kids’ play area. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. 965 Sierra Highway. To find a quieter environment. a pair of family-style restaurants. $-$$. $$-$$$. $$-$$$. Jacuzzi. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. pool and spa. golf course. $-$$. . fitness center and live music. The Casa Blanca. % 702-945-3316. family fun center and an airport shuttle. % 800-621-0187. on the corner of 5th and J streets. $$. which has two non-smoking rooms. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. Jacuzzi. the Hawthorne. % 702-463-2481. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. including dozens of suites.
$. . % 702-962-5551. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. $. 450 Front Street. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. which has five rooms. Stagestop Casino. is open 24 hours a day. % 702726-3777.99. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. $. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. $. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. % 702-751-7777. pharmacy and bank. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. 100 West Stagecoach Road. 1220 South Highway 160. a restaurant and bar. 884 A Street. No fast food. At Saddle West Casino. % 702-727-7777. Rose Garden. % 702-726-3106. also have full-service restaurants. % 702-726-3291. % 702-9625404. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. Besides. Flying saucer parking is out back. and welcomes pets. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. % 702-727-0909. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. $-$$. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. and the buffet starts at $2. the Silver Spur. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. $-$$. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. which has 22 rooms. 100 LaCour Street. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. 601 South Highway 160. % 702-727-7300. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. has 13 rooms. % 702-727-6440. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. % 702-729-2515. % 702-727-2404. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93.
1100 Main Street. fill the menu. 11 North Main Street. Maggies. including excellent seafood. has a great $7.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. 348 North Main Street. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. Yerington Casino West. The Station House. % 702-945-1700. % 702-4823885. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. and Burro Inn. also has a 24-hour café. % 702-945-3908. 570 E Street. % 800508-9493. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. % 702482-9777. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. % 702-553-2368. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. % 702-463-2481. % 702-553-2111. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. 1291 5th Street. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. you could do worse than El Marques. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. open until 9 PM. also have family-style restaurants. 540 F Street. % 702-5532225. % 702-482-6202. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. % 702-945-3320. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. 923 5th Street. Traditional American and Continental fare. % 702-945-2727. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. % 702-945-5253. The Exchange Club. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. try Happy Buddha. The . 100 North Main Street. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. is the home of two restaurants. 785 E Street. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. 501 I Street. % 702-9452994. % 702-945-3321.
111 Highway 208. satisfying and never-ending. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. % 800-346-7721. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. % 702-7263194. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. % 800-621-0187. % 702-4633707. There’s even an indoor workout facility. % 702463-2868. 2281 West Scales Way. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. 45 North Main Street. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. % 702-4623300. The Casa Blanca. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. serves breakfast. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. To reach the campground from Tonopah. is like a blast from the 50s. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. has a 24-hour coffee shop. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. Two blocks up. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. 11 North ALT 95. % 800-896-4567. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. Dini’s Luck Club. The Virgin River Hotel. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. which serves breakfast. The Mason Valley Country Club. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. lunch and dinner. along with the usual buffet. Carl’s Burgers. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. % 702-463-2054. % 702-727-2314. 702-726-3138. Peavine Campground is set at 6.
take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. From Tonopah.800 feet in the Monitor Range. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. % 702-4826286. To reach the campground from Tonopah. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast.700 feet. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. For directions. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. see On Foot. From here. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. % 702-687-6100. the unpaved road goes south briefly. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right.100foot level. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. above. . For information. providing access to fishing and hiking.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. contact the BLM. through Belmont. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. To reach the campground from Tonopah. offers sites for $11 per night. There are 11 sites set at 6. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. % 702-945-3373. There is no running water and no fee. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. The campground is another three miles away.
The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. American Automobile Association. Frank Amato Publications. DeLorme. Henry Holt and Company. American Automobile Association. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. They are listed in alphabetical order. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. Falcon Press Publishing. 1993. 1995. Suggested Reading . David Communications. 1997. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Falcon Press Publishing. 1997.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. 1998. 1995. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. published by the State of Nevada. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. 1994. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. 1996. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Noonday Press. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. Basin and Range by John McPhee. Moon Publishing. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. 1993. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. 1990.
La Siesta Press. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Gem Guides Book Company. . Mojave Books.. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Maturi. 1995. Stolley. American & Geographic World Publishing. Jr. 1997. 1992. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Wilderness Press. 1993. Bischoff. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. 1997. White. 1997. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. 1969. Falcon Press Publishing. Clark. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. 1993. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. The Globe Pequot Press. Falcon Press Publishing. Legend and Description by David J.
see also camping. 124 auto racing. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). hiking. 41-43. 199. 27 books. safety rules. 185. 10-12. 155 boating. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. touring. 179. 187-188 biking. Cottonwood Valley. 117-119. 198. 13. 152. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. Bonneville Salt Flats. 102. 36. 193-197. fishing. skydiving. 182-183. 187-190. 187-190. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. special events. 76. 43-44. hiking. 104-107. fishing. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 49. biking. 181-182 bighorn sheep. pictographs art galleries. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 123. Reno-Tahoe area. restaurants. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 115-116 ballooning. 38. 117-118. 104. 200 altitude sickness. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. 142. 48-49. Mount Jefferson. accommodations. 182. hiking outfit- Index . camping. outfitters.183. biking. events. Las Vegas territory. 17. Reno-Tahoe area. 89. price scale. 32. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 86. wild. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 169-170 Anasazi people. 3135. see also petroglyphs. Lovelock Indian Cave. 194. 198. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 10. 78 BLM. 17. restaurants. 50-52. events. 164. camping. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 35. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 29. Reno-Tahoe area. 8386. Leonard Rock Shelter. 2. camping. 199-201. 67 bowling. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 117. Pioneer territory. 118. biking. touring. touring. 144. 75-76. Pony Express territory. 121. 200 Basque people. 152. specific towns airlines. 132-133. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 135. restaurants. safety rules. 13-15. 120-123. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 168-169. 131. 154 animal life. 27. 179. 34-35 Boundary Peak. Pony Express territory. Las Vegas. Pony Express territory. 125-128. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. Ichthyosaur State Park. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 115. 156160. 77. 163-164. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. wildlife and bird watching antelope. accommodations. see transportation Carson City. restaurants. transportation. Las Vegas area. 28. 113. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 193 Aurora. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 85. 126. 174 canoeing. 169. 78. 194. 192 Big Smoky Valley. touring. 174-175 Austin. wagon trips. 144 Beatty: accommodations. horseback riding. 15-16. 193. 15-16 bird watching. see also zoos. 15-16. 142. 94-95. Elko. 129-130 bungee jumping. 184. Pioneer territory. 118.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. 103. 26-27 buses. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 144 backpacking. 119-120. 132. 183-184. 54-55. festivals. see transportation air tours. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 144. 177 Angel Lake: camping. camping. 137 Candelaria. 186 Belmont. 197. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. see water sports car rental. 42 burros. camping. 181-182. 146. 91 Barley Creek. 46. 92-96. 67-70. Pioneer territory.
100. 17. 138-139. 192. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 110. 161-162. Hamilton. 157-158. 87 Dayton. hiking. 98 fossils. 186 elk. 75. Toquima Cave. Lehman Caves. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 126. Pioneer territory. 109. restaurants. 147-148 Eberhardt. 77. 176. 120-121. 174-175. 15-16. restaurants. camping. 109 Glacier Trail. 172 golf. 12. Pyramid Lake Fishway. Lovelock Indian Cave. 13-15. 171. 121. Reno-Tahoe territory. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 170-171 Denio Junction. 153 Chimney Springs. 22. Cowboy country. Eberhardt. 40. 44-48. 75. skiing. 184. 149-150. see events fish. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. Northumberland Cave. touring. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 3. Camp Winfield Scott. 117. 43-44. Samuel. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 137. 194-195. 170. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 125. 6-7 ters. 126-127. 78 casinos. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 175 climate. accommodations. hiking. 115 Gold Center. 116-117. camping. accommodations. 139 cruises. 200 Cowboy Country. outfitters. 150-151. 35-36. Shermantown. 185. 111. Las Vegas territory. 12. restaurants. 67. 89. 134-135. 108 events: Cowboy country. camping. Treasure City.. 86. 179. 174. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 14 Colorado River. 179. transportation. 80. 170. restaurants. 119. 82. 137. 155-156. 160 Goshute Mountains. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 121-122. 188-189 Clemens. 29. 132-133. Pony Express territory. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. camping. fishing. 188-189 fishing. Rhyolite. 152.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 167. touring. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 137. camping. 186 Cave Lake State Park. hiking outfitters. John C. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 70. sport-climbing ratings. camping. special events. 112. mercury warnings. Midas. touring. Pioneer territory. 177. 109. 185. pupfish. 4. 163-164. 97. 79. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. restaurants. 124. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 71 Cottonwood Creek. Candelaria. 118. 190 . 139. 37-41. 106. events. 168. 131. touring. touring. safety rules. outfitters. 155. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 70-71. 152-155. outfitters. biking. Metropolis. 143-144. Rochester Mining District. 112 Genoa. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. Dunn Hatchery. springfish. 65 gambling. 74 Death Valley National Park. fishing. Las Vegas area. fishing. 83. horseback riding. 179. 46 Comstock Lode. 182. outfitters. 109. 112. Jungo. 142 Great Basin. Las Vegas area. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 18-19 climbing. 74. 190-193. 187-190. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 98. 116. Reno-Tahoe area. 106 diving. 73. 143. 171-172 Gold Point. 119-120. 137. 178. 120. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. accommodations. 4-5 Gardnerville. 179. fishing. hiking. 139140 Ely.5 Cathedral Gorge. 15-16 Fremont. 102-104. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 176. auto racing. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. Lake Tahoe area. 142. 88. 127. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 144. 122-123. 125. 169. 119. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 125. camping. 177. camping. Gold Center. 180 Earth Connections.
55. air tours. hiking. 37-41. camping. 127. 63-66. 66. 192. 188-189. touring. 181-187. 150. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 99-100. outfitters. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. RenoTahoe territory. 130. 146. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 62. outfitters. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 116-117. 41-43. touring. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 165-167. 46. Pioneer territory. 39. camping. hiking outfitters. 186-187. 1. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 148-149 jeep tours. 32-33 Lake Mohave. 132 Lexington Arch. 177 mercury warnings. 117 hotels. events. accommodations. 75. 98. 120 Incline Village. 49-50. 153. 54. 65. 41. 152. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 159. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. Las Vegas area. 48. hiking. 179 Kingston. 38. skiing. 23-29. watersports. 78-79 Jungo. Las Vegas territory. balloning and soaring. 79. 118 Lone Mountain. 50-52. 156. skiing. Pioneer territory. 90. description of. snow sports outfitters. 119 Index . fishing. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 107. Walley’s Hot Springs. 164. 195-196. touring.Index Great Basin National Park. map. 140-141 land. 101. 91-92. 103 Hamilton. hiking. Reno. 60. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. 32 horseback riding. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 40-41. 24. 141-142. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 125. 83. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. touring. 158. 150. 4WD trail. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 102. 64. transportation. Nevada. 106. water sports. 36. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 187 Manhattan. restaurants. biking. Las Vegas territory. biking. Pony Express territory. state. touring. 118. 32-33. 151. 149-150. 28. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 64. events. 20. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 200-201. 93. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. 21-22. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 137 kayaking. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 13-15. 82. special events. 53-54. restaurants. 80-81 hiking. 52-53. Midas Hot Spring. boating outfitters. 48-49. 162. 112-117. restaurants. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 39 history: Cowboy country. 43. camping. 47. Pioneer territory. camping. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. camping. transportation. touring. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. Kyle Hot Spring. 129-131. 46. 37-40. Pony Express territory. touring and transportation. 29-31. 44 Las Vegas territory. hiking outfitters. touring. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 91 information sources. camping. 110-112. restaurants. 149. 77. 145-150. outfitters. Pony Express territory. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 57-58. fishing. 40. camping. hiking. 83. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. camping. 198. 163. 193. 82. 78. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 45. Cowboy country. transportation. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 111. 90 helicopter tours. Las Vegas. 86. restaurants. 166. Reno-Tahoe territory. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 70 Humboldt National Forest. see air tours Hemenway Park. 83-84. 160. horseback riding. 3536. 162. 57. 148-149 Humboldt River. 176. 88. 46. 31-35. Reno-Tahoe territory. 47 lakes. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. restaurants.
184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. Piper’s Opera House. 8182 Mesquite. 200 motels. 177. outfitters. 71. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 26. 103. 183. 77. John. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 2. 134 petroglyphs. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 69. 25. restaurants. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 61. Mark Twain Museum. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 135136. 70. Las Vegas Art Museum. 181 Moapa. 199. Nevada State Mu- . camping. National Automobile Museum. restaurants. Humbolt Museum. 174. fishing. Capitol Building and Museum. 178. Fleischmann Planetarium. 171. 193-194. hiking. 142 Midas. fishing. 135. 71. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 173. Western Folklife Center. 83. 142. Marshall Mint Museum. see accommodations motorcycles. 107. 108. fishing. 86. 29 Mount Jefferson. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 73. 174. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 153 Northumberland Cave. 61. 153. 25. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 68. 34. 26. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. Nevada Historical Society. 2. accommodations. see biking Mount Charleston. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. May Museum and Arboretum. The Castle. 34. 109-110. Wilbur D. 98. 73. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 68. Lyon County Muserum. 8. see biking mountain biking. 4. 180 Minden: events. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 126. 25. 173. touring. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 109. 177. 175. 189-190 Muir. hiking. 11 Mosquito Creek.206 n Index seum. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 68. 75. 73. skiing and snowboarding. 29. camping. Desert Valley Museum. 80-81 Native American festivals. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 197-198. 177. 3-4. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 163. 25. 79. 71. 199 Metropolis. 69. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 199-200. 78. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 173. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 26. 167-168 Paiutes. 196197. Gold Well Open Air Museum. Roberts House Museum. Lost City Museum. touring. 139. 127 pictographs. 102. Liberace Museum. Guinness World of Records Museum. 69. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 188. 67. 72. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 32. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 26. 139. 31. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 106 nuclear testing. 34. 69. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. The Way It Was Museum. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 33. 23. 25-26. White Pine Public Museum. 170. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 35. 2. Keck Minerals Museum. 187 Mojave Desert. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 200. 23 Overton: touring. 4. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 25. 61. touring. 43. Mineral County Museum. 61 music and theater. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 158. 69. 43. 10. 70-71 mines and mining. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. Nevada State Library & Archives. Marzen House Museum. hiking outfitters. 107. 72-73. Central Nevada Museum. 91. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 73. Colorado River Museum. 61. 73. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 133. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 34. 165. 171. Stewart Indian Museum. horseback riding. 174. Clark County Heritage Museum. Brewery Arts Center. 175. 165 nuclear waste.
36. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. touring. camping. 90 soaring. snow sports outfitters. 195. 89-91 skydiving. 163. touring. auto. 198. horse. 173 Index . camping. 42. hiking. 146. 91. 74 races. 143 Rachel. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. biking. touring. 197 rafting. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 144. 145-146 prostitution. water sports. skiing. see skiing snowmobiling. 187. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 180 Pioneer territory. 54. 88 Shermantown. 48-49 snowboarding. 54. accommodations. 138 rock climbing. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 129-130. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 134. 106 Siegel. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 17. 169 Pyramid Lake. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 190. bike. fishing. RenoTahoe area. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 78. 179. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 78. see also specific towns Rhyolite. camping. 9 Sand Mountain. Las Vegas area. 109 Shoshone people. 179 Searchlight. 180. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. climbing and hiking. biking. 76. camping. 98. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 52 pupfish. Pioneer territory. see events price codes. see climbing rock hunting. 87. 96-97. 142. Las Vegas territory. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 193. 193. 197-199. see mines and mining skiing. fishing. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. skiing. special events. 93-94. fishing. 197. 163-164. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 113. motorcycle. 77. 112. 98. 77-78. 200 temperature chart. 144. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. Reno-Tahoe area. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 9-10. 84. 76. 114-115 theater. 123-125. hiking. 82.” 4 silver. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 9697. biking. 80 pronghorn antelope. 76. fishing. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 94 special events. 84-85 swimming. 26-27. 17. 144. 154. 13 Price Lakes. 88. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. see events Round House Art Gallery. restaurants. outfitters. camping. 153 Sparks. 150-151. 146-147. 90 sport climbing. 85. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 170 rivers. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. restaurants. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. fishing. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 53-54. 66. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing.Index Pioche: accommodations. 83-84. 156. 12. 79. 17. 167. 186-187. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. hiking. hiking and climbing. 79-80. 65 Pony Express territory. 165-201 plant life. 117. 163. see climbing springfish. Benjamin “Bugsy. 104. hiking. 181. 106 Spooner Lake. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 89. Pony Express territory. 185-186. 160-163. accommodations. touring. 115. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 59-61. 92-93. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 17. restaurants. 176 rodeos. transportation. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 49-50. 143. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 75 Stella Lake: hiking.
Hemenway Park. 143. 145-146. 157. 68. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. Earth Connections. 187. 174. 200-201. camping. 155. 149. 79-80. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. 33. Echo Canyon State Park. hiking outfitters. Winnemucca. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 73. 190-193. 45. Lake Mead. 159. 83. 29. 20. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. Ruby Marsh. 174 walking. camping. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 192. touring. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 163. 162. 155 . 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 151 Wilson Canyon. events. 167. 139-140 Treasure City. 185. 146. 77-78. Walker Lake. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. outfitters. Goshute Mountains. 76. 102. 176. Amtrak. 39 vineyards. 25 Topaz Lake. restaurants. 110. 168 zoos. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 85. 38. Wilson Canyon. restaurants. 144. touring. touring. 127. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 179. Pioneer territory. restaurants. 117. 150. 62. 75. 106 trains. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 139. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 178. 155. 44-48. fishing. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 168-169. climbing and hiking. buses. camping. see plant life tufas. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 182-183. special events. 176 Yerington: accommodations. 71-74 Virgin River. 144. camping. 152-155. restaurants. 188-189. Pioneer territory. High Rock Canyon. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 97. 71. 66. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 177. events. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. outfitters. 55. 147-148. camping. 26-27. 29-30. hiking outfitters. Santa Rosa Mountains. fishing. 62. Mark. hiking. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. restaurants. 193. water sports. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. touring. Pony Express territory. outfitters. 80. Table Mountain Wilderness. 67. 196. 176 wineries. 134 Twain. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. Arc Dome Wilderness. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. touring. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 117 Toquima Cave. Jack’s Valley Road. 163-164. 35. 127. 109 trees. 61. hiking. 151 Wovoka. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 112. 111. 104. touring. 143. 156-157. events. 193 Walker Lake. 31. 80-81. 31. 86 Wells: accommodations. 95.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 30-31. Ruby Mountains. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 98. wildlife and bird watching. 32. 191-192. hiking. 191 UFOs. 153-154. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 172. 183-184. Las Vegas territory. 34-35. 150. 159-160. see transportation transportation: airports. rental cars. horseback riding. camping. 119-120. 160-161. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 89. 199. 41. 62. 164. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. Cleve Creek Campground. Reno-Tahoe territory. 135-137.
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