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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
you’ll know better. giant sloths. According to author John Hart. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. These mammoths. bison. which covers most of Nevada. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. horses. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. In fact.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. that’s good news. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. In fact. About 27 million of them. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. however. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. pausing on . come for one thing only: Las Vegas. as the top tourism destination in the US. half-pound hot dogs. Among the 50 states. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin.” and for good reason. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. For anyone who loves the outdoors. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. you can have the whole wild. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. Florida.500 and 10. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population.
Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. the first European entered Nevada. Exactly 50 years later. . In 1776. Many prime archeological sites. The Northern Paiutes. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. hand tools. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. shells. followed in Garces’ footsteps. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. points. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. wetlands and springs. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. Jedediah Smith. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. In the south. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. including southern Nevada.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. established trade routes. In the 12th century. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. His party wintered in California. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. however. By about 500 AD. fish hooks. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape.
In 1845. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. covering most of Utah and Nevada. but abandoned it two years later. swelling the population well into five figures. camping at Las Vegas. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. Fremont. as it came to be called. DC. the church established the State of Deseret. and headed over the Sierras. In 1830. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. In 1849. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). but the Utah Territory government. dominated by the church.History n 3 In the north. The Comstock Lode. John C. then returned east along the route the next year. and. Introduction . who would later become a war hero. In 1859. which helped open the gateway to the West. encountering Pyramid Lake. Eight years later the first wagon train. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. was dispatched to map the area. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. the Mormons were the first white residents. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. 1864. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. with Brigham Young as governor. In 1833. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. Nevada became a state on Halloween. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. continued to oversee Nevada. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. In 1843 and ’44. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. By 1857.
Warriors under Numaga. later known as the Nevada Test Site.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. commerce and industry. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground.000 people in 1960. Winnemucca. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. began making money and the boom was on. opened in 1950. In 1874. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. Reno and the surrounding areas. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. then picked up again in the early 1900s. Ironically. was struck in Virginia City. Then in 1966. killed two-thirds of them. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. In 1855. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. Carson City. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. the Big Bonanza. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. particularly in southern Nevada. Siegel’s vision. In 1860. In the teens and ’20s. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. signed a treaty with the federal government. violence escalated. Streets were laid out. the first true hotel-casino. was of a classy. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. the mother of all lodes. however. upscale Vegas. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. Meanwhile. the Flamingo soon reopened. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. chief of the Northern Paiutes. then underground tests for 30 more. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. son of Winnemucca. Howard Hughes sud- . In 1873. bringing town sites. but was ambushed.
and Americans have become moths to the flame. a land dominated by a mobile population. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. moving to the region in record numbers. find enough water. DC. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. places like Elko. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. To many. How much is too much. trappers. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. miners. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. are reaping the windfall. This time. Fallon and Mesquite. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. . working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. The entire West will be watching what transpires. Mom and their 2.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. But the explosion has not been without fallout. Winnemucca. today there are master-planned communities. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. however. By 1970.
The Colorado River . much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. towers over Great Basin National Park. then up another range.000 feet to nearly 12. the Carson and the Humboldt. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. gurgle through the northern part of the state. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. Yes. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. In fact. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state.000 feet in the space of a few miles. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. Nevada even has its own 10. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. Named by explorer John C. then disappear into their respective “sinks. Wheeler Peak. Here. On the other side of the state.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. The notion of Nevada as a flat.000 feet. 13. Depending on who’s counting. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world.063 feet. The roof of Nevada is 13. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. down another range.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. down a range. dry. lakes. with nine ranges topping 11. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers.839foot Matterhorn.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. hills and uplands. In the north. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. Near Las Vegas. across a sagebrush-covered basin. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. and so on. Get the idea? After all. Fremont in 1844. reservoirs and other watery bodies.
000-acre Great Basin National Park. the southeastern corner of Nevada. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985.000 acres. the largest alpine lake in North America. In 1989. establishing 77. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. For the greens. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. a great inland sea that 50. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty.000 years ago covered 8. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada.500 square miles of western Nevada. it’s an uphill climb all the way. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. only 65. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. are the only reliable. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. Lower and drier. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. most notably Lake Tahoe. natural sources of running water.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. In the 1970s.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. in the remote north near Jarbidge. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan.
it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. Still. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. with its tiny. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. Apart from aspens. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). such as rabbitbrush. greasewood. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park.000 and 8. the soil supports . This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations.000 feet above sea level. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). horsebrush and shadescale. The recommendations have been under review for years. The squat Utah juniper.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. Death Valley. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. At elevations above 6. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. 14 national recreation areas. is generally found throughout the state between 5.000 feet. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state.
Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. blooms by night here. At the other extreme.000 years. hedgehog and barrel. The king of Great Basin vegetation. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions.000 feet. The Joshua tree. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. the official state grass. In the mountains. bristlecone pine. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. up to 5. ponderosa pine. or jimson weed. lodgepole pine. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . Black bears. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. The rare. which make up just 1% of the land. the mountain lion. however. creosote bush has an oily. along with alder. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. hallucinogenic sacred datura. which is actually a type of yucca.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. prickly pear. willow and dogwood. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. western white pine. Washoe pine. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. Above the desert floor. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth.
also live in the Mojave. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. brown. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. burrowing owl and canyon wren. help comes from hunters. while mule deer are abundant. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. skunk. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. the black widow and brown recluse. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. greater roadrunner. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. The desert bighorn sheep. weasel. seen on Nevada’s license plates. fox. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. rainbow. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. kangaroo rats. Ironically. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. with Lahontan cutthroat. Gambel’s quail. golden and Dolly Varden . redtailed hawk. pika. beaver. Trout are the favorite of anglers. coyote. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. badger. In the air over the desert. Snakes include several types of rattlers. prairie falcon. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. chuckwalla. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. brook. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. America’s two poisonous spiders. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. Blacktail jackrabbits. Meanwhile.
Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. This section also includes sources for expert information. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. A section on Touring follows.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Reno-Tahoe Territory. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. on snow and in the air. Along with detailed information on where to go. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. such as visitors bureaus. covering its history. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. broken down by specific locales. like almost every other Nevada visitor. on land. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. Cowboy Country. on water. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. culture and most attractive features. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources.
Finally. . . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . . $100 to $175 $$$$ . Up to $50 per day $$ . . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources.12 n Introduction ing chart. . . . Backpacking. . . . . . . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . Hiking. . . . . . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. forethought and patience. so use these symbols only as a general reference. . . . Trails may be gone. . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . . . $50 to $100 $$$ . . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . . . . .
so help is usually a long way away. known as the Yosemite Decimal System. As this guide goes to press.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb.Climbing.0 to . The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.Boulder hopping.0 to . using the hands.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 . there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one. occasionally using hands Class 4 . the most popular among serious rock climbers. it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. ranging from .Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.14 (and sometimes beyond).Adventures n 13 Finally. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 .Easy hiking. For Class 5 routes. Class 2 . Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . the lower numbers (.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. .
Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. Storms are more common in the afternoon. dehydration and lightning. Give them descriptions of yourself. Always take fresh water with you.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. use common sense before you get into trouble. By their nature. If the plan changes. As with all outdoor activities. Assistance can take hours or days. climbers enter the realm of myth.10. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. Pack spare everything – food. Begin hiking early in the day. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. until all holds disappear at . these ratings are meant only as guidelines. In the arid country of Nevada. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. not hard-and-fast rules. Beyond that. legend. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. then amended by subsequent climbers. clothing. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Be aware of conditions. taking into account personal experience. Don’t travel alone. n n n n n . climbing partners.
have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. preferably one with a large gas tank. . water and fluids. Not one of those trendy. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. but a powerful. high-clearance job. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. tools. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. extra gas. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. spare belts. Arizona. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. jack. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. four-wheel-drive vehicle. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions.
n If you find a traveled road. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. Do not ration water.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. Mountain biking in Nevada. 85096. stay put. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. of course. PO Box 39340. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. drink it as needed. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. leave a note telling searchers who you are. Phoenix. minimize talking and eating. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. when you left and where you are headed. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. contact DARES. left out of popular literature. however. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. The rest of Nevada. stay on it. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. For more information on desert survival. n If water is in limited supply. is more popular than ever. . n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. in wilderness areas). n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. n If you have water. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. AZ.
Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. n In The Air Scenic Flights. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Ballooning. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. And where there are tourists. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. Meanwhile. Skydiving. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. there are tourists. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. there are all types of sky-high adventures. At these higher elevations. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Many streams. and gigantic Lake Mead. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. lakes and reservoirs. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. but take extra care. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. Soaring Where there is Vegas. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. the gem of the Sierras. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. Fishing. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers.
Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. Summer and early fall can be blistering. temperatures above 110° are common. Leave the high altitudes as well. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. on the Colorado River. For those who like to watch. Laughlin. although they can occur at any time of year. If thunderstorms threaten. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. These storms are known to appear with little warning. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. In the Great Basin. . hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. get out of lowlying areas. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. but despite the obvious danger. throwing rain. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. Flashfloods are the predictable result. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno.
rainy and occasionally snowy. . Nevada Division of State Parks. windy. Carson City. In the north. NV 89520. % 801-625-5182.com. Nevada Division of Wildlife. NV 89712. NV 89703. 1300 South Curry Street. % 702-688-1500. In the mountains. 1263 South Stewart Street. % 702-687-4219.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. Reno. US Forest Service. Carson City. basin winters can be chilly.travelnevada. % 800-NEVADA-8. Reno. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. Carson City. NV 89311. For information on specific locales. % 702-785-6500. 84401. % 702-687-4384. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. Great Basin National Park. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. NV 89502. NV 89710. see the listings that accompany each chapter. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. too. Bureau of Land Management. Nevada Department of Transportation. UT. 324 25th Street. Ogden. 850 Harvard Way. www. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. In southern Nevada. Intermountain Region. Nevada Commission on Tourism. % 702234-7331. Capitol Complex. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. 1100 Valley Road. Baker.
and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. closer.000-foot peak. Inside the city limits.000-year-old petroglyphs. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. . For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. both prehistoric and otherwise. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. lounge shows – and recently.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. cheap food. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. try hiking to an 11. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. in plain view of the casinos.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
% 702-895-3011. 10 AM to 5 PM. % 702-363-1921. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. $3. call % 702-895-3801. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). The tax-deductible admission is $6. % 702-895-3893. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. $4. Just off the glittering Strip. Seasonal streams. 9 AM to 9 PM. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. is the Liberace Museum. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . Dedicated to Mr.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. Admission is $4. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. % 702-798-5595. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. features work by students. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. 1 PM to 5 PM. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Showmanship. faculty and invited artists. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. 8 AM to 5 PM.95 for seniors and students. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. giant. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. but no less extravagant. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. Ham Concert Hall. The Beam Fine Art Gallery.50 for seniors. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus.95 for adults.95 for adults. Southeast of the Strip. actual cosmopolitan. % 702-895-3381. Yes. Sunday. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state.
Charleston. Today there is a restaurant. 5 PM in the winter. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. trail rides and a “real” Western town. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners.) The best time to take the 13-mile. the road to Mt. The park is open daily. Admission is $4. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. Back on US 95. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. have been unearthed here. 8 AM to 5 PM. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. petting zoo. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. The park is open daily. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. 8 AM to sunset. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. % 702-875-4141. The admission is $5 per vehicle. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. With structures dating back to 1864. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. wife of a German munitions tycoon. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. saloon. The restaurant and bar are open daily. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. later during summer months. The park is open daily.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. (See below. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. 8 AM to 11 PM. % 702-875-4191. one-way loop drive is early morning. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. under Adventures on Foot. 7 AM to dusk. % 702-486-5413. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM.
Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. Charleston Lodge. % 702-646-3401. desolate valley. (See below. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. and its 1. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. Charleston Loop. Nevada’s state animal.000 vertical feet of runs. At the northern edge of the reservation. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. The 1. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. Charleston Hotel. % 702-872-7098. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. the Mt. Bighorn sheep. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby.) . % 702-872-5408. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night.) After the hike. under Adventures and Camping. In the winter. (See below. elevation 11. 17-mile. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. % 702385-2SKI. % 702-872-5500. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort.918 feet. (See below. completing the Mt. under Camping.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. under On Wheels. (See below. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. For ski rental and shuttle bus information.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. under On Foot.) Pitch a tent. see below under On Snow. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. A right turn leads to Las Vegas.
% 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. Airlines Air 21. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines.
% 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-346-4222 Americar.
711 East Desert Inn Road. NV 89109. NV 89109. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. 1830 South Boulder Highway. $1 for seniors and children under 16. .” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. % 702-455-7955. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. % 702-735-1616. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. The museum is open daily. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. On the north side of Boulder City.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. Admission is $1. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. 3150 Paradise Road. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. % 800-332-5333. Did it work? Judge for yourself.50 for adults. % 702-294-1888. Gray Line Tours. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. Call % 800USA-RAIL. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. 444 Hotel Plaza.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. stopping downtown. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas.
including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. $2.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. 89105. Children under 10 are free. 500 South Boulder Highway. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. boating and diving. % 702-293-8907. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. (See On Water below. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. All of 726 feet high. fishing. The cost is $5 for adults. Las Vegans. Holding about 9 trillion gallons.) Be sure to heed the . % 702-293-2034. 100 Nevada Highway. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. Hoover also created Lake Mead.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. 89005. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. Hoover Dam took 5. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. 660 thick at the base. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. Phoenix and Los Angeles. % 702-565-8591. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. and 45 feet thick at the top. swimming. for information on camping. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. head back toward Boulder City. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge.
. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. Back on Nevada 167. a public swimming and boating area.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). Just beyond the bay. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. which rests on the Virgin River. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. The displays in the visitor center. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. % 702-397-2088. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. thank you. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. Beyond here. Go straight to reach Henderson. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. From the visitor center. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. % 702-293-6180. nearly five miles off the highway. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. explain the geology and forces of erosion. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery.
34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. in Bullhead City. % 520-754-3272. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. Named for a brand of matches. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. on Lake Mojave. % 702-297-1682. under Adventures. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. constructed his Riverside Casino. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. campground and fishing and swimming spots.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. the town was a gold.000 visitors a month. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. Admission is a $1 donation. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. (For details on all three. bar and bait shop. % 520-754-3399. % 800-46-4584 . 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. 125°. % 520-754-4606. Arizona. 9 AM to 5 PM. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. with motel. % 520-754-3628. Nevada’s record-high temperature. % 702-297-1464. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. relives those days. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. Saturday. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. see below. 355 Highway 95. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. a campground and marina. South of here is camping.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. The museum is open Monday through Friday. East of Searchlight 14 miles. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. 9 AM to 1 PM. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No.
and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. 1555 South Casino Drive.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. % 310-448-1822. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. In Laughlin. % 702-798-6405. % 800-331-1212 Budget. as many as 6. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. May is the busiest month. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. % 800-736-6247 United Express. host- . Special Events February In February. % 702-876-3380. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. % 800-227-5245. % 800-227-5254.
% 702-2939256. to town. August In August. floats into Laughlin. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. and the National Finals Rodeo. % 702-293-1611. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. to downtown. % 702-8953900. to the waters of Lake Mead. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. a three-day balloon rally. % 702-457-2797. % 702-4541212. the Las Vegas Classic. % 702-293-4857. % 702-631-7000. % 702687-5777. Another balloon festival. to the campus of UNLV. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. Navaho and Mojave peoples.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. . Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. % 702-870-1221. take place in Boulder City. % 702-452-8066. % 800-227-5245. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. % 702-898-6565. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. the Parade of Lights. the International Black Heritage Festival. % 702-293-2034. % 702434-0848. Later in the month. takes place in Vegas. % 702-457-5775. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. October Art in the Park. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. % 800-637-1006. a confluence of Southern Paiute. % 702-386-3926. blows in. also takes place in October.
8). TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. Crimson Chrysalis (5. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. is to mountain bikers. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. is only 35 minutes from the Strip.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5.9). but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. Stratocaster (5. so chalk often stays put for months. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab.12a).10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. so take extra precautions when adventuring here. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.11). At nearby Willow Springs. Utah. Chicken Eruptus (5. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains.11b). sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. in fact.7) crag and mixed climbing walls.11). The Choad Warrior (5.11+). Graveyard Waltz (5. Sheep Trail (5.11). Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. especially in winter months. To the west. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. Other routes in- . while nearby Cloud Tower (5. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon.11d) offers more advanced routes. At the end of a 90-minute approach. Red Rock attracts free climbers.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley.9) has 1. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop.
The 3. page 41. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders.8) and Eagle Dance (5.000 feet in four miles. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment.6). Chockstone Press. The trail switchbacks time and again. At the aforementioned fork.000 feet. gaining 3. The South Loop Trail. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted.12). There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. ending at a small dam and the spring. consult the Bible of local climbers. About seven miles from the visitor center. 17 miles round-trip. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. See Outfitters. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. published by the American Alpine Club. toward a ridge at 11. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. . Rainbow Buttress (5. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. & For more information. to savor the 300-mile views. elevation 11. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road.918 feet. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs.10 or 5.000 feet. an easy six-mile round-trip. Following the fork. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. all that remains of his 1920s homestead.
Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. covering two miles and gaining 1. the trail climbs 1.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. For trail information and weather and safety updates. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. Never take these altitudes lightly. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. Mountain T Ranch.000 feet above the desert.000 feet into the northeastern sky. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven.4 miles. . contact the US Forest Service. At lower elevations. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. thunderstorms and snow.000 feet to a saddle. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. Beginning on a dirt road. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. To the northwest. gaining 1. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon.
Las Vegas. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. Suite 4. % 888-86ROCKY. PO Box 371324. which is marked by a post. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. then go northwest to another plateau. % 702-254-5604.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. PO Box 1. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. Climb northward up the slope. outlines the easiest route. Rocky Trails. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. 89180. Las Vegas. HCR 33. 89124. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. and park at the end of the road. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. . Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. % 702-364-8687. turn right. % 702-223-2176.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. Las Vegas 89117. go 6. % 702-596-2953. Just south of this outcrop. % 702-434-3388.2 miles. PO Box 80875.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Stay below the northern peaks. 89137. Falcon Press Publishing. Bruce Grubbs. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. Sports & Adventure Tours. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. climb a gully to reach a ridge. heading for the northernmost outcropping. ascending northwest.
% 702-875-1978. Las Vegas.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. % 702-254-1143. Armed . Desert Rock Sports. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-649-6819. Desert Outfitting. can arrange a covered wagon trip. % 702-798-6565. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. % 702387-2457. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. Peak Sports. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. At mile post 17. Cowboy Trail Rides. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. Silver State Old West Tours. % 702-2567433. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. % 702-252-7114. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. 89132. 4065 East Patrick Lane. 617 Hoover Avenue. % 702-383-0838. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. however. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. % 702-458-8870. PO Box 19210. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Hahn’s World of Surplus. Wagons West. % 702362-7177.6 mile to a dirt road.
turn right. and pump uphill. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). before heading out. After beginning another climb. Head downhill. Go left here. Turn right. A double track soon appears on the right. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. flying downhill and then up to another road. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. go to the next intersection. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. 4765 Vegas Drive. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. a six-mile loop. heading uphill. Take this until you reach a double track. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. Turn right. NV 89126. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. At the road. PO Box 26589. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. zoom downhill to the fork. For a tamer road trip. % 702-647-5000. turn left to another intersection and turn right. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. Las Vegas. For a more challenging excursion. contact the Bureau of Land Management. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. . scanning for a cairn on the left. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. make a quick right and head downhill.
Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-252-8077. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. 16 Cottonwood Drive. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-8978287. % 702-646-3401. % 702-876-8687. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. . rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. the byway forks. 7934 Cadenza Lane. Las Vegas Bikes USA. % 702-642-2453. % 702-451-9586. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. Downhill Bicycle Tours. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. At about the 10-mile mark. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. % 702-596-2953. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. Ski Chalet. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. Escape the City Streets. R&R Cycling. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. Turn left to return to US 15.
just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. an avid angler for more than 50 years. 4765 West Vegas Drive. Las Vegas. % 702-646-8800. is on the premises. maps and more information on backcountry byways. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. 3700 Flamingo Road. 2810 South Highland Drive. It begins. For details. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. 713 East Ogden Street. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. 8 AM to 11 AM. % 702-454-5555. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. % 702-796-9355. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. crystal-clear hotel pool. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. % 702-380-6969. Rebel Adventure Tours. Suite B. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. of all places. . Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. 89101. Old West Territory Tours. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. % 888-REELRIO. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change.
visit Divers’ Discount Supply. rents houseboats. % 800-34-SCUBA. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. offering professional advice. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. largemouth bass and trout. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). water skiing. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns.500-acre ranch in Utah. Boulder Beach. and two. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. Forever Resorts. about three miles across at its widest point. The expert staff is available seven days a week. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area.) Swimming. . But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. instruction and gear. flows into Lake Mead. jet skiing. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. Thomas. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas.to three-days notice is required. % 800-2555561. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). meals and overnight lodging for $449. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. Off Nevada 167. (See below. powerboats and cruisers. under Boating Outfitters.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. For details. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence.
Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. Lake Mojave Farther south. HCR 30. Lake Mead Cruises. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. offers trips from January through November. 89102. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. PO Box 100. % 800-696-RAFT. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. % 702-293-6180. % 702-754-3245. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. Calville Bay Resort. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. 322 Lake Shore Road. Las Vegas. Las Vegas. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. 89006. PO Box 62465. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. The cost is about $65 per person. 89006. Return transportation is provided by bus. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702-565-8958. PO Box 61235. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. is the local fishing and boating hub. . Lake Mead Resort & Marina. particularly near cliffs. 89124. % 702-2931190. Near Laughlin. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. % 702-252-7114.
Overton.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. 89040. % 800-228-9825. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. 89040. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. Bullhead City. % 702-3944000. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. Overton Beach Marina. % 702-564-5660. % 702-437-9283. Tom’s Water Skiing. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. 1450 Newberry Drive. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. 89029. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. PO Box 29279. 520-758-6242. Laughlin River Tours. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. % 702-459-2080. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. Sunset Bait & Tackle. 4290 Boulder Highway. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. PO Box 29279. % 702-388-1022. % 702-452-8299. AZ. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. % 702-5659111. . Laughlin. % 702565-0696. 89028. Fiesta Queen Cruises. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. Clearwater Flyfishing. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702-433-3263. % 702297-1464. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Overton. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle.
Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. The company claims more than 500. % 702-564-1558. Saturday until midnight. HB Fishing Guide Service. 810 Circus Circus Drive. 3800.J. A jump is $59. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. % 702-385-4321. 68 Mallory Road. Utah. Karen Jones. With commercial balloon tours. ext. 1500 Palomino Drive. % 702-5657583. % 702-871-1399. Arizona and Zion. Henderson Bill Spellman. Even more memorable. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. Hackett Bungy. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. however. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. citing growing noise problems. The platform is open Sunday through Friday.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. 161 East Rancho Drive. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. % 702-451-4004. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. % 702-434-0848. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. Jim Goff. % 702-565-8396. noon to 9 PM. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. . The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. complete with guided ground tours and meals.
3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. 89109. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . Set at a base elevation of 8. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Eagle Canyon Airlines. King Airelines. % 800-255-7474. 2705 Airport Drive. Las Vegas. Jean Airport.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. % 800-359-8727. #115-200. NV 89019. PO Box 19629. % 800-634-6851. Las Vegas. % 702-293-1860.com. % 800-535-4448. Web site www. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April.ultimateballoonadven. Boulder City. 200 Convention Center Drive. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. % 800-216-8330. 3275 Rosanna Street. Skydive Las Vegas. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Heli USA. D&R Balloons. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. % 702-385-2SKI. % 800-634-6377. % 702-877-1010. Las Vegas Airlines. % 800-446-4584. 89005. Air Vegas Airlines. Sundance Helicopters. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. 806 Buchanan Street. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. 806 Buchanan Street. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Jean. NV 89117. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. 241 East Reno Avenue. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. Scenic Airlines. % 702-221-9199. % 702-736-0013. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone.
opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. After all. luring 200.000 visitors. it seems. if possible. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. 2395 North Rancho Road. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. For more serious snow. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. 600 East Fremont Street.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit.000-room MGM Grand. % 702-385-1664. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort.000 techies to Sin City. Above all. 18 East Fremont Street. even behemoths like the 5. HO TE L Many hotels. $-$$$. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. But somehow. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. % 800-272-7426. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. The place was once part-owned by in- . over 100. are booked solid on weekends. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. % 702-646-0008. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. All they do is take up space. % 702-385-5200. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. $-$$. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80.
before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. $-$$. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). however. and New York. Next door is the Island’s big sister. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. $$-$$$$. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. across from the Fashion Show Mall. % 702-894-7111. who built the first casino resort. % 702-385-7111. The Four Queens. $$$$$. $$-$$$. 129 East Fremont Street. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. is a crowd-pleaser. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. $$-$$$$. The Mirage. % 702-791-7171. % 702-386-2110. $$-$$$$. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. Down the street. % 702-740-NYNY. New York is out there. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. The movie Rainman was shot here. $$-$$$$. Across the street is the green giant. South of here. % 702-385-4011. 128 East Fremont Street. Caesars Palace. the MGM Grand. way out there. the Flamingo. has 1. Monte Carlo. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-732-5111. 1 Main Street. New York.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. $$-$$$$. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. $$$-$$$$. the young upstarts. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. 3000 Paradise Road. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. 202 East Fremont Street. New York. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. dominate the Strip.037 rooms. Even by Vegas standards. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-740-NYNY. $-$$. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. If staring at wealth is your thing. The Golden Nugget. % 702-731-7110. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. % 702-3821600. The faux volcano.
Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. % 702-875-4400. Charleston Resort. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. On the outskirts of Vegas. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. Bonnie Springs Motel. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. three Motel 6s.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. $$-$$$$. % 800-634-3988.500 rooms. $-$$$. while Bellagio will boast 3. contrary to popular belief. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. $$-$$$$. % 702-262-4555. .800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot.000. set at 7. Charleston Hotel. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. % 702-872-5500.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe.000 visitors a month and climbing. In the Spring Mountains. but don’t count on that for long. positively sedate with its 5. the Mt. % 702-735-1616.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. contact the Chamber of Commerce. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. $-$$.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. too. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. TIP Laughlin For the most part. At this book goes to press. which eliminates Reno. % 702-872-5408. has 2.
is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. % 702-733-3111. Off the main drags. 2100 South Casino Drive. $-$$. $-$$. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. in the Las Vegas Hilton. 1350 East Flamingo Road. while the Colorado Belle. % 702-298-4000. 202 Fremont Street. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. The Edgewater. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. featuring a movie theater and large showroom.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. Eurasian mélange. 3700 West Flamingo Road. Hamada. sports a railroad theme. both at the MGM Grand. contact the Chamber of Commerce. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. 401 South 6th Street. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-252-7777. offers 2. 2300 South Casino Drive. % 702-891-7337. Nearby. % 702-385-5016. Andre’s. After a few meals at most of these troughs. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. % 702-298-4200. Andiamo. % 702-3807711.000 rooms. % 702-385-4011. 2000 South Casino Drive. $$$$. 1650 Casino Drive. 2900 South Casino Drive. The Ramada Express. while the Golden Nugget. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. and Harrah’s. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. and very expensive. % 702-298-2535. On the Strip. % 702-298-4600. Café Michelle. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. Downtown at the Four Queens. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house.500 rooms. % 702-298-2453. serves upscale Italian fare. and Gatsby’s. opened in 1990. % 702-298-2214. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. At the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-298-5111. 1900 South Casino Drive. $-$$$. has 1. the Flamingo Hilton. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. Emeril’s. $-$$$. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. $-$$. % 702-298-7111. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. $-$$$. % 702-891-7374. classy Hugo’s Cellar. however. To really dine UPtown. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. 2121 South Casino Drive. % 702735-8686. % 702-732-5111. An excellent buffet.
For information.400 feet. Chin’s. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. % 702-873-5222. serves hip. although the Lodge. Near the end of Nevada 157. so be prepared for extreme weather. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. % 702-794-0700. % 702-298-2242. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. Charleston. Phillip’s Supper House. as the name implies. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. % 702-382-1644. call % 702-873-8800. serves fine steaks and seafood. % 702733-8899. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. Suite Z. while moderately pricey. is the most popular Chinese place in town.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. having opened in 1932. For satisfying American favorites. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. % 702-384-4470. % 702-363-1921. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. 3900 Paradise Road. % 702-2984600. The elevation here ranges between 7. Chicken is the house specialty. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. in the shadow of Mt. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. is the oldest restaurant in the city. % 702-383-0007. seven days a week. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. . 2504 East Fremont. which. Fong’s. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. 4455 Paradise Road.000 and 8. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. Kyle Canyon. % 702-693-5000. For a Latin taste. 308 West Sahara Avenue. All five campgrounds have piped water. The Green Shack. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House.
Moving north from Boulder City. Las Vegas Territory . Across the river from the Strip. On the Virgin River to the north. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. there’s Boulder Beach. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. For information on all five locations. % 520-754-3272. call % 702-646-3401. % 520-7544606. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. In Valley of Fire State Park. For information. north of town on Lake Mojave. On the north shore. To the east of Vegas. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. % 702-397-2088. Calville Bay has 80 sites. has room for 171 RVers and tenters.
“Lake Tahoe is king of them all. Of course. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. With a surface elevation of more than 7. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. Rose resorts. Las Vegas.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. At the heart of this region. and for good reason. In the winter. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. the city of Reno is the . welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. The Truckee River. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. just east of the California-Nevada border. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister.000 feet. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. Heavenly and Mt. Reno. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. the largest alpine lake in North America. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore.
offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. About 30 miles north of Reno. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. are walks back in time. meanwhile. The Carson River. Pyramid Lake. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. an ancient. Farther east of Carson City. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. Farther south. which meanders – sometimes wet. The place dates back to 1851. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Fort Churchill. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. Washoe Lake State Park. North of Pyramid Lake. on the shores of Washoe Lake. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. . complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. 8. Today this mirage-come-true. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. Just south of Carson City. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. where everyone expects Ben. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs.
who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. Like Vegas. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. North Virginia Street. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. From Carson City. and in 1859 C. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. No. From here.H. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. % 800-FOR-RENO. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. or at least slow. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. for a schedule. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. which hosts special events in warmer months. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . H.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. there isn’t a glass pyramid. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. In 1852. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. From Reno. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. the city continues to grow rapidly. In 1863. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge.W. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City.
60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. . If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. From a historical point of view. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. this is it.
Reno-Tahoe Territory . Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. % 702784-4812. including black bears and kit foxes. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. 300 North Center Street. Animal Ark Nature Center. % 702-334-2600. % 702-333-9300. 1265 Deerlodge Road. % 702-688-1190. To get there. % 702-969-3111. houses one of the world’s best collections. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. May Museum and Arboretum. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno.) The Wilbur D. The Nevada Historical Society. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. And the Keck Minerals Museum. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. turn right. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. 1650 North Virginia Street. Great Basin Adventure. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. % 702-7855961. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. About 10 minutes north of the university. % 702-788-3773. but call first for hours. On the north side of the city.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. is also located here. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. 1502 North Washington Street. April through October. has been at that location since 1946. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. On the northern outskirts of the city. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. the campus of the University of Nevada. % 702-784-4528. boasts three treasures. houses a theater and telescope. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. On the suburban south side of Reno. a nifty historical theme park. 10 South Lake Street. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. The staff welcomes visitors daily. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. is a well-known. When arms get tired. Fleischmann Planetarium. the National Automobile Museum. (See below under On Foot.
% 800-435-9792. Dollar. % 800-218-8777. % 800-453-9417. % 800-527-0700. Budget. Thrifty. Delta Air Lines. Hertz. % 800-800-4000. % 800-225-2525. % 800-359-2472. % 800-654-7037. % 800-654-3131. % 800-221-2000. % 800-426-7000. K-T Services. Avis. Greyhound Lines. If you don’t have a car. % 800-231-2222. United Airlines. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. Airlines Air 21. Northwest Airlines. % 800-331-1212. Canadian Airlines. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Southwest Airlines. Reno Air. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-221-1212.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. America West Airlines. No Stress Express. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. % 800-736-6247. % 702-328-6400. % 800-367-2277. % 800-CAR-RENT. Delta Connection-Sky West. National. Alaska Airlines. . Lloyd’s International. % 702-882-3375. % 800-235-9292. % 800-241-6522. % 800-325-8007. TWA. Enterprise. TriStar Airlines.
% 800-FOR-RENO. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. the waters are now finding friends in high places. NV 89502. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. In reality. Reno. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. rock. year-round outdoor playgrounds. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. All told. Reno. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. provides an interesting mix of adventures. respectively. Fortunately. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. is a study in contrast. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. % 702-329-2936. NV 89505. % 702-686-3030. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. a marvelous intermingling of water. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. 98 Colony Road. but the future of the Basin itself. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. local. control erosion and acquire open land. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. trees and sky. in his journal Roughing It. 405 Marsh Avenue.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. 4590 South Virginia Street. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. restore forest and watersheds. At press time. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. In 1861. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
restrooms and picnic areas. % 702-831-0494. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west.50 for kids. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. stands out amid the pines. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. % 702-831-0691.) Up the twisting NV 431. % 702-849-2511.776 feet. Three miles south of Incline Village. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. Reno-Tahoe Territory . under On Foot. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. The park. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. at 10. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. is well-known to snorkelers. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. (See below. Viewed from the highway. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. called Diver’s Cove. The north end of the beach. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. open May through November. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. with its full slate of running water. The beaches are open daily. Admission is $8. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. $5. After the buzz of the ranch. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. But in between them. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly.50 for adults. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. along the eastern shoreline. is a welcome respite.
% 702-588-4591. % 800-AT-TAHOE. Every summer. (See below. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. The day-use fee is $5. offices and shops. The price for such sloth is $10. Stateline. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. NV 89449. then into the broad Washoe Valley. For information.250 feet in five minutes. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. At Tahoe Village.) For the unmechanized. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. also offers excursions. % 916-583-9048. condos. 96151. PO Box 16299. under On Snow).66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin .50 per adult. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. horseback riding.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. % 702588-3000. South Lake Tahoe. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. $6 per child. (See below. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. This is the home port of the Dixie II. a nature trail circles the lake. under Adventures and Accommodations. Booming in the winter (see below. restaurants. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. % 702588-3508. Sailing. under On Snow. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. canoeing. May through November. PO Box 7139. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. CA.
the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. Bowers Mansion County Park. Washoe Lake covers about 3. When the Comstock Lode. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. windsurfing. the boom rolled in at full throttle. and on weekends between May and October. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. boating. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. the mansion and all its furnishings. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. Bowers Mansion. % 702-849-0201. was hit a year later in Virginia City. The park’s centerpiece. site of Washoe Lake State Park. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. eventually lost their silver fortune.000 acres. About 15 miles south of Reno. (See below. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. the world’s largest silver strike. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. one mile south of Washoe City. camping and hiking (see below. pages 83. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. About 30 miles south of Reno. off NV 429. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. During the wet season. under Adventures.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. The original owners. a hunt that lasted 20 years. In November. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. 87 and 98). but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. Camping. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. Washoe Lake. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. US 395 slides southwest. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . Davis Creek offers its own small lake.” On Halloween in 1864. % 702-687-4319. 1851.
hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. yearround. % 702687-5030. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. The Capitol Building & Museum. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. 600 North Carson Street. 100 Stewart Street. the Capitol is open daily. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. Admission is $3. Call for schedules and pick-up points. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. Located in the Carson City Mint building. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. The library contains the original state constitution. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. which was opened in 1886. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. 101 North Carson Street. % 702-687-5160. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. Headquartered in nearby Minden. excepting state holidays. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. exhibits of native fauna. It’s so open. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. .68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood.” In fact. % 702-687-4810. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. Unlike most Western capitals. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. in fact. the Nevada State Library & Archives. Just east of the Capitol. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. % 702-884-3450. Open Monday through Friday.
The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. The Roberts House Museum. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. The St. % 702-884-2226. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). train rides are extra. 5366 Snyder Avenue. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world.50. 1207 North Carson Street. % 702-883-1976. Admission is $4 for adults. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. The Stewart Indian Museum. Roughing It. Admission is $2.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. % 702-826-2766. Bliss Mansion. The Orion Clemens House. Charles-Muller Hotel. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The staff can provide trail maps. and Bender House (1874). The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . was named for its original occupant. $2 for kids. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. % 702-687-6953. Admission is $2. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. books and permits for the surrounding area. 302 South Carson Street. The museum is filled with period furniture. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. % 702-882-1808. Two blocks north. 2180 South Carson Street. The office is closed Sundays. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. That classic journal. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. On the suburban south side of Carson City. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. % 702-887-2174. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. The building now houses a live theater. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. 1536 South Carson Street. 448 West King Street. the Carson City Brewing Company. 813 North Carson Street. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. 502 North Division Street. Samuel.
% 702-782-4325. May through October. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. lies Genoa. The place saw Nevada’s first house. at the foot of the Carson Range. opened in 1863. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. 3. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs.000 students had walked its halls. California. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. Daily admission is $12. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. As of presstime. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. % 702-687-7410. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. Before the school closed in 1980. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. 2001 Foothill Road. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. saunas. Walley’s. . when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. first opened to tourists in 1862. the first permanent white settlement in the state. Across the street. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. to Genoa. where he is buried. now long gone. The museum is open daily. % 702-782-8155. Carson City. NV 89701. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. weight room and tennis courts year-round. Up the street. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. 1900 South Carson Street. May through October. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. Genoa Bar. The roots go back to 1851. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. Guests can enjoy the water.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history.
Touring n 71 Back on US 395. about eight miles south of Carson City. circus items. boxing memorabilia. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. and their spirit built the Silver State.200acre beauty set at 5. the highway hits Topaz Lake. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. Beyond NV 341. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. resting precariously . The otherwise barren hills. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. where it intersects with NV 341. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. Leaving Carson City. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. % 702-782-3133. a 1. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. including Western art and portraiture. 1477 Highway 395. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. Just down US 395. Virginia City. their sweat. Housed in the 1915 high school building. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. In Gardnerville. Finally. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. of all places. About three miles south of Gardnerville. 1440 Highway 395. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. which climbs up a narrow. % 702-782-2555. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. Minden was founded in 1904. Gardnerville in 1879. Their riches. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. % 702-266-3343. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. valleys.
% 702-847-0777. more than 15. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. Here. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. Admission prices range from donations to $3. underground mine tours. % 702-847-0757. and within four years. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. At the south end of town. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. . from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. The building is open daily. Admission is $3. % 702847-0975. The Comstock Lode had been struck.000 lived in Virginia City. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada.000 a ton in silver. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. leave regularly. Up C Street. The Marshall Mint Museum. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. Not recommended for claustrophobes.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. May through October. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. is a looming. Today. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins.
no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. has a more eclectic collection. The headstones and gravesites. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. Mark Twain’s Memories. % 702847-0275. % 702-847-0454. % 702-847-9394. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. Open daily. complete with ornate chandeliers. Admission is $2. Its extravagant interior. lives on in two buildings. Admission is $2. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. % 702-847-0766.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. windswept plateau. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. The Way It Was Museum. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. including an old jukebox and player pianos. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. The Mark Twain Museum. Reno-Tahoe Territory . The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. % 702-8470333. % 702-8470830. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. 3. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. Finally. % 702-847-0525. June through October. is definitely not for the puritan. is open daily. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. After she was murdered in 1867. for a ride into yesterday. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. a room in the basement of a saloon. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. The memory of Samuel Clemens.50. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged.
Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. appears in Palomino Valley. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. then exit at NV 445. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. number about 30. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. After about eight miles. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. There is also a developed campground.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. After another 20 miles. wild horses. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. or mustangs. Today. including Odeon Hall. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . % 702-673-1150. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. % 702-577-2345. The Byway’s terminus. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. little more than a few walls remain. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. Past the intersection with NV 431. % 702-847-0311. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption.
The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. % 702-547-0187. Today. % 702-476-1156. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. Nearby. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. Camping. A reservation was formalized in 1874. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. according to artifacts found in local caves. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510.000 BC. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. of course. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. the road passes Wino. Tribe members administer recreation activities. If losing yourself is your goal. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . boat ramp. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. Spreading north and east. site of the ranger station. nine-mile-wide watering hole. Another 25 miles north via paved. boating and fishing are extra. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. campground. thus christening the 27-mile-long. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake.182 feet) to the west. Fremont. store and museum.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. or dry lake bed. this is the place to do it – unless. the world’s largest playa. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. They will provide directions and hours of operation. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. Just north of the marina. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. continues to surround the lake. From Nixon. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. since at least 9.
The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. spare tire. birds of prey. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. songbirds. preparedness is imperative. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. and carry enough water. on 575. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. Besides antelope. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. A shovel.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. about one mile south of NV 140. Help can be a long way away. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. even with one. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. caution and common sense are key to traveling. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. . food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. % 503-947-3315. TAKE CARE In this region. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. tow chain. Again. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and.
brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. % 702-329-3877. In Virginia City. % 702-782-2444. % 702-847-7500. water. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. % 702-882-1808. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. % 702-782-2211. In Reno. a rolling custom car show. In Carson City. % 702-883-1352. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. % 702-882-1802. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. In Gardnerville. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. % 702-353-2291.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. % 800-FOR-RENO. the Pony Express Re-Ride. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. Carson Valley Days. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. The Way It Was Rodeo. % 702-829-1955. % 702-687-7410. % 702-847-0311. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. bills itself as the “Wildest. % 702-265-5281. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. Richest Rodeo in the West. % 702-329-7469. % 702-882-1283. is held in Sparks. with food. % 702-588-9658. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. Night Curves. heats up. % 702-588-6211. Reno also . Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. is a rip-snortin’ affair.
brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. . and the famous Reno Basque Festival. On the Black Rock Desert. % 702-847-0311. % 702-782-9711. % 702-827-7603. % 702-329-7469. come to Virginia City along with a parade. and the National Championship Air Races. % 702-826-1181. % 800-535-3045. and the Nevada Day Parade. takes place in Carson City. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. In the skies. the Nevada State Fair.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. the notorious Burning Man Festival. % 702-972-6663. % 702-786-5700. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. is held in Reno. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. attracts American Indians from many Western states. deconstructionist Woodstock. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. Street Vibrations. a sort of post-modern. % 702-885-6939. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-688-5767. the Native American Snow Dance. % 702-882-1565. gather in Minden. % 702-329-1476. % 702-832-1606. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. In Incline Village. The Great Italian Festival. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure.
Falcon Press Publishing.11a and 5. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. then climbs to a saddle. including Asylum (5.11d) and Slayer (5. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. all 5. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection.000 feet. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. including Jello Wars (5. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. whips around a peak. however. 1994. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. Overhangs present experts with 5. After crossing Galena Creek. Farther south. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy.11c and heavier. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada.14a). The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50.12a opportunities. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. There are 10 routes. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. are more chilling than the mountain air.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. There are more than 20 routes. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. so dress appropriately. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on.11a). Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. At the five-mile mark. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. . the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe.
climbing 3. Since the slide. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. the Oxbow Nature Study Area.260 feet. % 702-6881893. offers a beautiful willow. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. including great blue herons and birds of prey. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. After another mile. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. % 702-847-WALK. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper.300 feet in just six miles. for children $5. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. The trail ends at a highway. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. This hike is certainly strenuous. Hours are seasonal. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. as are group tours. The charge for adults is $12. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. . The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. NV 431. elevation 8. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. so call first. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets.
OR 97441. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. Madras. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. CA 94620. great horned owls and other birds of prey. Oakland. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. To reach the trailhead. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. contact the BLM. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. as are 7. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. . Stevens Camp. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. As this is being written. From here. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. For more information. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. For travel information. Yellow Hills East. is a good overnight point. write them at PO Box 20991. For more information. The trail. Mahogany Mountain. % 916-279-6101. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. For road conditions and closures.
A steep. NV 89436. Outdoor Adventures. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. gaining 2. NV 89511. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. 490 Kietzke Lane. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. The lakes. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. but they might also offer their services to hikers. % 702-623-1500. % 702-851-1924. Silver State Outfitters. % 702-832-5231. Patagonia Outlet. % 702-333-6795. NV 89450. % 702-746-6878. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. Look for the Knott Creek sign. . 20 Daylily Court. Reno. 3335 Vista Boulevard. NV 89502. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. terminus of the fairly flat. backpackers and photographers. Nevada Guide Service. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. 8550 White Fir Street. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. Incline Village. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. % 702-322-9559. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. #111. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-626-6916. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. Sparks.200 lung-burning feet. Denio Junction. PO Box 6145. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town.397 feet. Reno. to the soaring summit at 9. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. Bighorn Outfitting. 1135 Terminal Way. On the east side of the reservoir. jogs through alpine meadows.
welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. 1941 North Carson Street. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. % 702588-5664. Vogl Trek USA. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. % 702-849-1020. call first for availability and directions. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . 1201 Highway 395.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. % 702-8827779. Twin City Surplus. 155 East Moana Lane. 4339 South Carson Street. % 702884-3453. Sporting Rage. % 702-885-7773. Sierra Mountaineer. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. Near Washoe Lake State Park. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. 4375 South Carson Street. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. % 702-831-5465. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. % 702-849-0570. and offers picnic rides. the trail makes a high-altitude. Sierra Spirit Ranch. After about three miles. which parallels North Canyon Creek. offers ranch day trips. contact Tin Cup Adventures. 1675 East 4th Street. % 702-8252855. % 702-3584824. % 702-323-5630. % 702782-7011. % 702-849-9651. In all four cases. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. Strictly Scuba & More. In the highlands near Mount Rose. also rents horses.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. Zephyr Cove Stables.
to Vya. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. north of Pyramid Lake. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. From here. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. For detailed maps. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. % 916-279-6101. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. % 702-831-0494. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. Put simply. 84 miles back to Gerlach. The half-paved. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. don’t screw it up. or ends. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A).84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. Continuing northwest on NV 447. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. . make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. depending on point of view. To complete the loop. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out.
% 702-825-8258. 235 East Plumb Lane. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 3450 Lakeside Drive. along with Canada geese in fall. also known as NV 206. Reno Schwinn. % 702883-3210. 4135 South Virginia Street. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89502.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. Bicycle Warehouse. % 702-747-1413. 89532. 89502. Excell Skates. 89502. call % 702-688-1500. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. % 702786-5111. % 702-8871333. Bike Brothers. % 702-3226001. 89701. 89701. 1993. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. & According to Jeanne L. winter and spring. 89509. % 702827-3277. For more information. 1999 South Virginia Street. south of Carson City. 500 North Carson Street. 1987 North Carson Street. . 89502. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. Falcon Press Publishing. Great Basin Bicycles. % 702826-0800. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. Carson City Capitol Bicycles.
The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. 89450. which can take up to seven hours. red-tailed hawks. personal water craft and kayaks. . % 702782-0867.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. canoes. % 702-588-3369. Contact the US Forest Service. offers 1. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. rents powerboats. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. PO Box 3007. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. Nevada. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. % 702-8825007. coyotes. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. The trip. 89423. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. Spooner Lake. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. cutthroat and rainbows. kingfishers. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. via NV 88 and CA 89.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. 89701. turkey vultures. Entrance fee is $3 per car. six miles south of Gardnerville. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. During spring and early summer. California. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. 625 Fairview Drive. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. On the Nevada side. 1685 Highway 395 South.
Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. The smaller. A better option might be Ophir Creek. For the stalwart anglers. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. both on the eastern shore. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. with campground and restrooms. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. Idlewilde Park. There are two boat ramps. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. For directions. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. planting and licensing information. % 702-6874319. although . is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. catfish and trout. Washoe Lake State Park. For more adventurous angling. only a mile west of downtown. % 702-688-1500. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. are regularly stocked with rainbows. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. thanks to Sierra runoff. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. However. and charges a launching fee. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. but in wet years. two to three miles up a steep trail. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. For moving-water anglers. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. water levels.
In his book. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. % 702-688-1500. while rainbow. the setting here is primative. Come prepared. see below. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. For more information. Boats with outboards are permitted. . brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. crappie and perch. used to separate gold and silver from ore. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. More than 100 years later. Nevada Angler’s Guide. a health advisory is still in effect. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. however. boasts a handful of isolated spots. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. under Outfitters. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. There are two boat ramps on the lake. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. Camping is primitive. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. The reservoir is located on private land. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Rainbow. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout.
NV 89448. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. intermediate and advanced. % 916-541-5448. Mount Rose also offers lessons. NV 89502. Zephyr Cove. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. PO Box 1909. NV 89449. Stateline. NV 89431. Tahoe Topliners. Snowboarders are welcome. 96145. Reno. With a base elevation of 8. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. PO Box 815. Reno Fly Shop.. NV 89502. 155 East Moana Lane. % 916573-0753. Reno. % 702-825-2855. . Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. Zephyr Cove. NV 89448. % 702-322-9559. 89502. PO Box 10225. equally divided among novice. The Gilly.440 vertical feet of runs. PO Box 6506. rentals and a shuttle bus. 294 East Moana Lane. % 702-358-6113. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704.260 feet. % 702-588-4916. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. % 916-546-4444. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. 490 Kietzke Lane.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. Don’s Fishing Charters. CA. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. Tahoe City. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. % 702-827-0600. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Sparks.
Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). day tours and amateur races.000 feet above sea level. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental.800) and the highest top elevation (10. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. childcare and a shuttle bus are available.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. Diamond Peak. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. Lessons. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. Heavenly. $8 after 3 PM). 1210 Ski Way.500 feet). This is a monster of a mountain. the greatest acreage (4. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. lesson. which include a pass. and rental. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. rentals. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. . % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. skate skis. Snowboarders are welcome. lesson. Incline Village. NV. trail pass) is $34. % 702-7823047. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. a new gondola and the famous tram. For cross-country fans. six surface lifts. lessons. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. % 702-831-8361. % 702-749-5349. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes).000 to 9. Heavenly has 18 chairs.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. and/or snowshoes.840 feet. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. with the longest vertical drop (3. all-terrain skis. 89451. Lessons. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. rentals. not to mention great views of the lake.
In Reno. 89451. Excell Skates. % 702-849-0111. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. % 702-8269096. Stateline House of Ski. 89502. % 702-786-2020. % 702-3239463. % 702-786-7071. % 702-329-5358. Galena Ski Rentals. 89502. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. % 702-831-2922. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. % 702-831-3537.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 89502.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. Snowind Sports. PO Box 19215. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. Sundance Ski Company. 89502. % 702782-0867. South Lake Tahoe. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. 321 Sky Way. 89502. Sierra Mountaineer. Serva Ski. Mogul Mouse. % 702831-3500. % 702-358-4824. 235 East Plumb Lane. 209 Kingsbury. % 702786-5111. 89502. 89502. 89451. 1200 South Wells Avenue. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. 140 Vesta Street. % 702-588-5935. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. of- . 2615 Mill Street. 515 East Moana Lane. CA 96151. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. % 702-3226001. 89423. 89451. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 2500 East 2nd Street. 89502. 1685 Highway 395 South. Bobo’s Ski Shop. C&J Flight Aviation. % 916-544-1221.
% 800-427-8397. High Country Soaring. 398 US 50. also features condo accommodations. 750 Wells Fargo Lane.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. $$$$$$$.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. eight restaurants. offers 534 rooms. $$$-$$$$. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. Tahoe Summit Village. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. poolside service. three. has 740 rooms. % 800-99-RIDGE. the Sierras and. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. % 702-588-8571. $$$-$$$$. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. has two. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. of course. $$$-$$$$. % 702-784-4944. % 800-635-0066. a dance club. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City.. % 800-6483773. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. $$$$. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. Harrah’s. Harvey’s Resort. $$$-$$$$. Lake Tahoe. on this site since 1944. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. Lake Village Vacations. % 800-648-3353. . The Douglas County Airport.
$-$$. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. % 800-824-6391. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. % 800-687-8733. % 702-8321234. Today.700 rooms on 38 floors. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. 2 Stateline Road. which serves free continental breakfast. $$$. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. % 800-322-7723. as well as a gym with instructor on site. $$$-$$$$. A perennial four-star winner. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. The Haus Bavaria B&B. with more than 1. As in Las Vegas. 111 Country Club Drive. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. 593 North Dyer Circle. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. $$. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. 407 North Virginia Street. The Zephyr Cove Resort. $$-$$$. % 702-588-6644. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. lawn games. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. % 800- . Among the downtown locations. combines great views. % 800-731-6222. $$-$$$. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. % 800-624-7980. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. % 800-225-6382. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. % 702-831-0287. $$. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. first-class. Harrah’s. has 33 rooms. the Cal-Neva Resort. 24 Highway 28. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. 210 North Center Street. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms.$$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. a rustic feel.
% 702-8821887. $. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. 600 South Carson Street. % 800-282-2444. % 800-937-1436. including a barber shop. $$. $$-$$$. . an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. which overlooks the state government center. % 702-786-4070. two heated pools and a hair salon. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. the new Peppermill. The St. % 800-723-6500. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. $. 345 North Virginia Street. 3131 South Virginia Street. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. a heated pool and other amenities. is a three-story. $$-$$$. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. 1901 South Virginia. The Atlantis. % 702-358-1080. an owner-built. and Vagabond Inn. boasts nearly 600 rooms. $$. 500 North Sierra Street. 310 South Carson Street. Circus Circus. $$$$. has a heated pool. % 800-320-0627. $$$.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. % 702-882-3643. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. % 800-723-6500. the Motel 6. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. free airport shuttle and skier rates. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. % 702-825-7134. $$. Freeway convenient. $$. 1100 Nugget Avenue. % 800-648-5966. Away from downtown. 2707 South Virginia Street. $$.000 rooms. which features theme rooms. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. convention facilities and some impressive suites. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. $$. the Eldorado. 3575 South Virginia Street. welcomes bargain hunters. % 800-648-1177. has more than 1. Charles Hotel. It has more than 1. $$. Nearby. most notably the Days Inn. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. % 800-622-1890. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. Motel 6. 710 West Robinson Street. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. $$$. 701 East 7th Street. Rates start at $195 per night. % 702-827-0255. $$.
$$. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. $$. % 702-847-9777. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. The Crooked House. % 702-8825535. % 702-782-8720. % 800-962-0732. Pratt. #800-628-7831. $-$$. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. was built in the late 1800s. $$$. for weary wanderers. $-$$. $$$. two with private baths. The motel has 40 rooms.C. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. 2332 Main Street. % 702-882-3046. and Pioneer. % 702-782-7075.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. The Chollar Mansion. There are 13 rooms. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. some with kitchenettes. 300 Main Street. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. 2001 Foothill Road. $-$$. 1431 Ezell Street. including the small Genoa House Inn. generic motels abound in Carson City. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. % 702-782-5697. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. 1540 Main Street. is the center of the action. the inn was built in 1872 by A. 1435 US 395. % 702-557-2220. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. 1979 US 395. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. % 702-847-0521. 11 with private baths. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. $$$. 180 Nixon Street. $-$$. 907 South Carson. 1643 US 395. $$-$$$. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. 1627 US 395. % 702-847-0111. % 702-782-7644. 8 South F Street. It has four rooms. % 800-321-6983. % 702-782-9711. and a casino. $$. has five rooms. 800 North Carson. It has four rooms. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. . $$-$$$. $. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. 565 South D Street. $$.
The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. % 702-786-1323. % 702-588-6276. is a rousing pub with good food. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. 3065 West 4th Street. Open for dinner only. including a seafood and oyster bar. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. Famous Murphys. Steak. 1200 Razorback Road. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. . Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. Ichiban. The place has 14 rooms. seasonal ingredients. The restaurant also does its own baking. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. along with Caesars Tahoe. 4201 West 4th Street. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. % 702-825-1250. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. a casino. % 702-323-3200. % 702-941-0371. 210 North Sierra Street. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. no TVs and. $. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. the menu changes every two months. % 702-827-4111. coffee shops. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. 328 Kingsbury Grade. also run the gamut with delis. % 702-323-5550. 3127 South Virginia Street. ethnic food and full buffets. The hotels. The Chart House. the lake’s first casino. try the Glory Hole. Reservations are recommended. serves fresh Japanese steak. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. of course. % 702-588-2411. % 702-588-6611. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. The French cuisine is made with fresh. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. Open for dinner only.
serves fine French cuisine. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. the Eldorado. % 702-356-3300. 234 North Virginia. % 702-882-0486. Two blocks away. and Peppermill. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. dinner only on weekends. The Carson Nugget Steak House. 1112 North Carson Street. . El Charro Avitia. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. % 702882-1626. South of the city center and south of the border. seafood and steak. % 702-8262121. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. 402 East William Street. % 702-689-7226. % 702-882-3353. 1301 North Carson Street. 4389 South Carson Street. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. 507 North Carson Street. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. one of the top Italian eateries in country. % 702-882-4556. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. Boasting a large Italian menu. % 702786-5700. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. % 702-847-0111. % 702-8835100. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. % 702-883-6261. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. Silvana’s. % 702-348-9297. There is also an extensive wine list. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. % 702-785-7000. this is the place. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. 1020 North Carson Street. Adele’s. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. Heidi’s. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. 2707 South Virginia Street. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. 1540 Main Street. 255 North Sierra Street.
Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. Reno RV Park. the campground has 54 sites and running water. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. % 702-8822766. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. . is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. call % 702266-3343. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. including Virgin Valley. Open June through September. California. some for RVs and some for tents. Set at 8.900 feet. % 702-789-2000. Showers are available. % 702-687-4319. Big Spring Reservoir. for more information. On the Nevada side. For information and fees. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. % 916-573-2600. Open May through October. the campground has 24 sites. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. lies south of the river. 2500 East 2nd Street. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. There are 44 campsites here. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. The overnight fee is $7. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. % 702-323-3381. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. The overnight rate is $12. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. 735 Mill Street. office of the BLM. 1300 West 2nd Street. % 702-322-2281. nine for RVs. Mount Rose has running water. which straddles the Nevada-California border. % 916-279-6101. The nightly fee is $5. Simply wonderful. Call the Cedarville.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. Rates run about $18 per night. Nightly fees are $6. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night.
Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Want ads called for “Young. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Joseph... Bible and mail pouch. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . willing to risk death daily. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir.Pony Express Territory vada. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. Orphans preferred. On October 24. skinny. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. tore between stations. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. carrying only a pistol. California. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. Incredibly. the gutsy riders. and Sacramento. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. wiry fellows not over eighteen. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. Beginning in April 1860. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures.” Riders. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. Missouri. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. pausing only long enough to change mounts. 1861.
963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. glacier-carved peaks. In the higher mountains. As might be expected. Ranging in elevation from 3. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. Great Basin. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. spans some of the most beautiful. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. hiking and wildlife viewing. ridges and valleys in the country. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. so be prepared for anything. But if you consider solitude. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. Just a few hours from Ely. this area has plenty to offer. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. Near the town of Ely. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. . Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. there is excellent skiing.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
1050 South Maine Street. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. Sunday.000 years. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. below. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. (See On Water. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. White-faced ibis. snowy plovers. . the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. peregrine falcons. With 10. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. Admission is free. % 702-423-3677. covers 77.000 photographic images. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. 1000 Auction Road. In peak years. In recent years.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. pelicans.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. green-winged teals. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. January through March. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. % 702-867-3500. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. % 702-423-5128. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. April through December. canvasbacks. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. Over 14. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada.000 people.
which is open only twice a month for guided tours. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. At press time. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. The hunting season usually opens in October.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. Adam Fortunate Eagle. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. More than 21. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. and “management” means hunting. Over 8. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. On the south end of town.000 years ago. Pony Express Territory . but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. which features the famous Blue Angels. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. Every spring. Just east of town. is the artist in residence here. Just off the highway are two short trails. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art.
Fallon. dark. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. NV 89406. geology and history of the region. regularly emanate from the dune.” meaning sword. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. Fallon. Near the station. the low. roars and moans. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. but strenuous. If the roar of engines ever dies down. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. 379 West William Avenue. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. 100 Campus Way. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. volcanic cliffs around it. about three miles past West Gate. . listen for the mountain’s “singing. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. A hike to the precipice is a safe. NV 89406. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. fauna.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. % 702-423-4556. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. % 702-423-2544.” Booms. wild West. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild.
which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. then climbs again to Austin. PO Box 1149. Round Mountain. % 702-964-2145. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village.350 feet. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . PO Box 212. NV 89045. the boom was followed by the bust. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). Six miles later. 13 miles east of Austin.577 feet. Three miles later. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. Austin. past Bob Scott campground. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. Austin is a quiet. then to paved NV 376. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. However the rush began. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. Spencer’s Hot Springs.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. population about 300. NV 89310. As always. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. % 702-964-2200. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters.
are open to visitors just off the road. % 702635-4000. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. is recommended for serious. The hill is located on private land. % 702-964-2200. near Pete’s Summit. At mile 55. Battle Mountain. A series of safe.000 years ago. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. Austin. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. After merging with Lower Mine Road. At mile 30. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley.500 years ago. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. A long. . experienced cavers only. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. NV 89310. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. PO Box 212. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. There is also a free campground here. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. The limestone cavern. PO Box 1420. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. NV 89820. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas.
The state’s No. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. but most definitely worth a gander. Still. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. The shell of the building.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. PO Box 14. and the Jackson House Hotel. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. NV 89316. By 1878. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. found in the valleys around Eurkea. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . some a little less gloriously than others. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. however. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. Gold mines. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). The building. Eureka. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. dates from 1877. Eureka’s population of 9. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. % 702-237-5484. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. Not until five years later. Eureka. completed in 1880 and still in use today. But by 1890 the rush was over. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. are still a major facet of the local economy. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters.
and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. % 702-237-5484. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. US 50 rolls across basin and range. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Eureka. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. Monday through Friday and by appointment. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. n Ely Back on US 50. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. NV 89316. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. Situated at 9. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. Entering town at night . the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. this mini-city (population about 5. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. PO Box 14. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman.000 feet. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore.500 residents. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. A few miles farther south. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Pronounced EE-lee.
depot. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. Prices start at $10 per person. Tours of the railroad yard. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. located on East 11th Street. running water. The White Pine Public Museum. furniture. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. % 702-728-4467. PO Box 150040. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. clothing. East Ely. a bicycle. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline.50 per person. depart on selected dates from May through September. former First Lady Pat Nixon. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. The museum. Admission is free. On the other side of town. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. Return to US 50. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. as well as an original. Since they went cold in the 1880s. Pony Express Territory . NV 89301. 2000 Aultman Street. Call for exact dates and times.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. % 702-289-2085. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. engine house. There is primitive camping here. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. accessories.300 feet. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. showers and hiking trails. % 702-2894710. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. like many museums in this territory.
Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. In 1922. Most of the 77. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. contact the Ely office of the BLM. Only about 70. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. a proposal to create a 6.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. That leads quickly to Baker. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. 150 6th Street. 636 Aultman Street. Designated a national park in October. From Baker. sometimes by the hundreds. % 702-234-7331.000 people a year visit the park. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. For more information. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. % 702-289-4865. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. % 800496-9350. 1986. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. Bristlecone Convention Center. % 702-289-8877. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. In the 1950s a .000 acres of parkland are untraveled. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. untamed backcountry. While hikers are welcome. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure.
nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. below.000. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. or speleotherms: stalactites. in 1986. then head straight out of the park.067-foot Wheeler Peak. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. Call ahead for conditions. Tours of the cavern. ski resorts and tramways. stalagmites.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. are hard to beat.086-acre Great Basin National Park. NV 89311-9702. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. Congress settled on 77.000 to 44. among others. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. columns. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. (See On Foot and Camping. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. Prices are $4 for adults. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. which is actually one huge cavern. flowstone and soda straws. Finally. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. draperies. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. are held every day except Thanksgiving. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. . While celebrating a victory. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. Baker. % 702-234-7331. The high-altitude campgrounds. Christmas and New Year’s Day. $3 for juniors.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. too. limited to 30 people at a time. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. the park’s crown jewel. And even if the invasive livestock were banned.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests.
Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. Carvers NW. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. % 702-9642671. Drive three miles to the recreation area. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District.600 feet. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. to reach the village of Kingston.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. Set at 7. .500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. or use paved NV 376. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. which has picnic tables and shade trees. a few of which are even of gem quality. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. Millet Ranch. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. Tierney Creek. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead.000 feet. are spessartite. Bakeoven Creek. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. The garnets found here. To reach Garnet Hill. South Toiyabe Peak. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. Arc Dome. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon.
TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. Pony Express Territory . % 702-289-3031 for more information. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness.000 feet along rocky. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. windswept paths. a unique. nausea. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. If threatening clouds approach. set aside in 1989. The wilderness. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek.000-acre. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. Baker. which may be impassable when wet. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. and Mount Moriah. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. After about 10 miles of hiking. The trail ends just before the summit. with many trails climbing above 10. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. leave the high country immediately. This is some serious highcountry hiking. From the trailhead/parking area. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. which heads west toward the peak.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. 1. headache. is marked with trailhead signs. which at 12. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. as well as all the water you will need.
begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. or cirque. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. Finally. then turn left again. then descends to Teresa Lake. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. the last 1. Continue straight. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. If it is safe to venture to the peak. This is another depression etched by a glacier.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow.063 feet. Use extreme caution here. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. the six-mile . At 13. In 1878. The bowl. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. To reach the summit. the views of the 8. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes.
Wheeler Peak. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. just off to the east. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. subalpine conditions. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. once the site of some mining activity. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. In good weather. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. After about three miles. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive.950 years. Turn left. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon.926-foot Pyramid Peak. Return the way you came. . To return to the trailhead. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. To continue the loop hike. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. Kious Spring. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground.700 feet in the first seven miles. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. this is a nice overnight stop. Around mile six. Lehman Caves. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road.
J & P Auto Parts. 89301. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. 89301. % 702-423-6171. % 702-2893063. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. % 702-289-4208. 1707 Rice Road. 89406. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. . Flying M Stables. As of presstime. Daum. 89301. Burdick Guide Service. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. 2005 Harrigan Road. 189 Aultman Street. % 702235-7439. 701 Avenue F. % 800-874-0903. a quartermile. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. Box 33570. Silver State Stables. HC 34. Sportsworld. White River Guide Service.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. Great Basin Inn. 5030 Reno Highway. % 702-238-5232. 89301. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. 89883. % 702-867-3388. is worth a gander. 89406. 3125 Stark Lane. 89406. PO Box 34005. % 702-664-2977. Wildlife West Guide Service. HCR 33. Wendover George A. 89301. 1050 Aultman Street. % 702423-9215. 89406. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. % 702-289-8886. PO Box 2560. % 702-289-4468. % 702-4239215. 203 Heritage Drive. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. % 702-423-5185. sells camping and outdoor equipment. 89301. 89406.
Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. NV 89310. one would think tiny Austin. population 300. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. % 702-964-2671. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. Dune-buggy.000 per year. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. For more information. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. NV 89310. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. For more information. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. PO Box 504. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. PO Box 130. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. A 10-mile loop with a 1. brochures and campgrounds. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. Austin. Austin. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. The route runs north out of the canyon. the sixstory. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. % 702-885-6000. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. contact the BLM.
1500 Aultman Street. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. when the weather is dry. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. sells and services bicycles. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. past the US Forest Service station. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. % 702-289-8886. % 702-234-7331. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. for maps. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. directions and road conditions. and bring plenty of water. . From the pavement. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker.
so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. The trout limit is 10. Lahontan State Recreation Area. along with sportfishing. % 702-688-1500. Pony Express Territory . In 1997. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. where worms and corn are said to work best.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. White crappie can be hooked March through May. surrounds a 10. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. Boat ramps are located in two spots. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area.
% 702-423-6031. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. % 702-289-8886. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. 855 West Williams Avenue. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. is one of the biggest places in town. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. The Upper Reese River. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. 1050 Aultman Street. which feeds the lake.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. J & P Auto Parts. Great Basin Inn. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. % 702-289-4468. % 702-289-4865. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. via paved NV 376 and a three. 701 Avenue F. 1500 Aultman Street. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. $-$$. % 702-289-3063.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. and one of the best bargains. A few chain HO TE L .
$-$$. 70 East Williams Avenue. % 702-964-2306. but after a long day on the road. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. % 702-423-4648. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. The Nevada Belle Motel. the 22-room Value Inn. On the east end of town. Smith Creek Ranch. which is north-south running US 95. combines a B&B with a private. 1830 West Williams Avenue. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. which has 30 rooms. the Lincoln Motel. The red brick structure was built in 1877. also called Main Street here. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. the Pony Express House. For a real blast from the past. with 10 rooms. $-$$. % 702-237-5247. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. % 702-423-2277. called Main Street as it runs through town. rates and directions. % 702-964-2471. The Eureka Motel. $$. has 17 rooms. a heated pool and a small casino. % 702-423-4254. including the Comfort Inn. is a modern. $-$$. and. 180 West Williams Avenue. the Budget Inn. It is open seasonally. % 702-964-2698. $$. has 27 rooms. % 702-9642605. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. a heated pool and interior corridors. $-$$. basic equipment. meals and overnight accommodations. % 702-423-5151. $$$. most of which are on US 50. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. which has 49 rooms. % 702-237-5334. try Jackson House B&B. % 702-423-2194. who really cares. while on the southern edge of town. $. The Sundown Lodge. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. Call for information. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. $$$. which has 17 rooms. $. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. % 702-237-5577. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). 25 North Taylor Street. $-$$. The ranch. As you drive in from the west. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. 1705 South Taylor Street.800 acres. $. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. 115 Northwest Main Street. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. $-$$. has 21 rooms. % 702-423-5554. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. instruction.
the building was vacant 10 years later. $-$$. 220 East 11th Street. and its twin. $-$$. two-story hotel. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. % 702-237-9988. located on the south side of town off US 93. Ely With a population of more than 5. $-$$. 501 Aultman Street. After years of dormancy. % 702-289-8900. $$-$$$. % 702-2891234. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. 1501 Avenue F. % 702-289-4497. is another living antique. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. For a more modern taste. % 702289-6671. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. $. 701 Avenue I. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. 930 Aultman Street. For a more genteel stay. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. The Bristlecone Motel. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. $. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. There are also private balconies. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. has 21 rooms. % 702-289-8687. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. % 702-289-8838. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. $$. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. % 702-289-6665. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. The inn is open June through September. which has 19 rooms. the inn has five rooms with private baths. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall.300. 770 Avenue O. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. 700 Avenue I. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. % 702-289-4884. 5th . 1101 Aultman Street. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. $-$$. % 702-289-4747. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. $-$$. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. which has 61 rooms. 500 High Street. $-$$$.
and Whispering Elms RV Park. 1301 Aultman Street. $-$$. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. with its seven rooms. the Border Inn. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. $. $. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. PO Box 90. % 702-289-4411. 150 4th Street. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. . South of Baker at the national park boundary. $. % 702-234-7323. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. even fast food joints are nonexistent. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly.. $. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. % 702-234-7343. It is open June through August. is a favorite spot for travelers. so call ahead for operating hours. % 702234-7323. Behind the Silverjack. Baker. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. and two others outside of Baker. % 702-234-7267.. % 702234-7300. offers tipis and a campground. % 702-234-7272. % 702-289-3033. NV 89311. which has a laundromat and showers. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. 24hour laundromat and showers. Utah.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. % 702-237-7302. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. along with horseback riding. and the White Pine Motel. what with its 29 rooms. The Silverjack Motel. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory.er. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. % 702-289-3800. guided tours and off-road adventures. $-$$. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers.
The Fallon Nugget Casino. % 702-964-9905. 1955 McClean Road. try Mary’s Owl . Tony’s. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. In 1929 and ’30. % 702-867-2769. In the 1920s and ‘30s. is Fallon’s only coffee house. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. % 702-423-5588. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. Carol’s Country Kitchen. 1350 West Williams Avenue. specializing in omelets and steaks. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. % 702423-6828. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. % 702-423-2117. % 702-423-3233. 875 West Williams Avenue. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. is known throughout Fallon. is home to The Diner. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. % 702-964-2220. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. lunch and dinner. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. The International Café and Bar. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. 1560 West Williams Avenue. is also open for three squares a day. 125 South Maine Street. % 702-423-3111. % 702-964-2493. Café Nations. however. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. Open for breakfast. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. 960 Auction Road. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. 70 South Maine Street. The Depot Casino. % 702-423-6166. % 702-867-3750.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. 4150 Reno Highway. If your mind is on pizza. Toiyabe Café. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. including McDonald’s. Smack in the center of town. Denny’s. Kentucky Fried Chicken. The Mexican food at La Cocina. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). Stockman’s Casino. have been serving great burgers. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. including the few eateries. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. serves up steaks.
2160 Aultman Street. and is attached to a bar. The Owl Club. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. located three miles north of town on US 93. Believe it or not. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. % 702-867-2332. 5787 Reno Highway. The Busy Bee Drive-In. has 64 sites. % 702-289-3033. top sirloin steak and eggs. Jerry Restaurant No. % 702-289-4884. where the restaurants are also along US 50. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. % 702-688-1500. which features prime rib. 21. serves a fine steak sandwich. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. % 702-964-2627. 501 Aultman Street. 562 Aultman Street. Fallon RV Park. is also open 24 hours a day. % 702-2289-3765. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. % 702-237-5280. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. % 702-289-4888. 1455 Aultman Street. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . 211 5th Street. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. West of Fallon. and Orient Express. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. offers 45 sites. % 702-237-5356. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. % 702-237-5477. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. 4800 Reno Highway. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. The Fireside Inn. might as well top it off in Eureka.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. % 702-964-2412. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. % 702-867-3636. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. Lahontan State Recreation Area. % 702-289-6665. serving diner-style grub. and Hubtotel RV Park. 701 Avenue I. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. % 702-289-3905. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. % 702-289-3313. however.
contact BLM Battle Mountain District. both off of US 50. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. North of Ely. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. Open April to October. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area.500 feet. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. No running water or firewood.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. % 702-635-4000. grills. Finally. which are open June through September with running water. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. % 702-964-2671. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. % 702-964-1011. set at 7. Just east of the Eureka town limits. as there are no services near the water. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. NV 89310. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping.800 feet. 24 miles east of Austin. For more information and road conditions. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. picnic tables and vault toilets. There are 15 sites. To reach Bird Creek campground. About nine miles south of Big Creek. There are 10 sites here . then go a mile to County Road 1059. Bob Scott Campground. PO Box 1420. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). After a few miles.300 feet. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. Just east of town. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. Only six miles southwest of Ely. NV 89820. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. None have running water.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. Austin RV Park. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. along with campfire rings. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. where there are eight campsites set at 7. Austin. There is drinking water here. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. Battle Mountain. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. For information. PO Box 130.
One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake.886 feet. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. this is the only park campground open all year. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. % 702-2893031. The BLM. Contact the visitors center. To reach the campground from US 50. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. has 100 sites. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. 89301. In the center of the park. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. % 702-2893303. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. There are 30 sites here at 7. on US 93. and there are no showers. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. 350 8th Street. and Valley View RV Park.530 feet. % 702-234-7331.752 feet. On the northern edge of the park. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. % 702-2893413. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. Ely. Nine miles above Upper Lehman.300 feet. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. NV. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles.250 feet). Set at 7. In Great Basin National Park. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. For more information. Upper Lehman. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. Pony Express Territory . % 702-289-4865. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. depending on weather conditions. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road.
stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. call many parts of this high country home. reaching as high as 11. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. the state animal. .000 feet and more. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. sagebrushcovered sea. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. Edmund Schulman. humans. started pulling core samples. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. Named Methuselah. Desert bighorn sheep. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. however.700 years. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids.000-year-old duck decoys. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. He found one living specimen dating back 4. who described them as “lowly old giants. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. Throughout history. Today in Cowboy Country. not many of them stayed around very long. The short. the oldest living thing on earth. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir.
and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. bass and other gamefish. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. In fact. Summers are generally hot and dry. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. Carry good maps and a compass. Elko headed the list of the 100 . with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. bikers and equestrians. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. Winter brings rain and snow. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. The weather here can be as wild as the land. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. lakes and reservoirs. streams. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. and know how to use them. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. In 1993.000 years. towns like Winnemucca. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns.
leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. In late 1860s. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. followed by the doomed Donner Party. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. both held in Elko. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. but thanks to new mining technology.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. combed Cowboy Country. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. parts of which are still visible today. paralleled the Humboldt River. after the riches ran out. lunch and dinner. others moved on. including one named Samuel Clemens. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. took to sheepherding. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. Cowboy Country . Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. but everyday tools. This is a place where pick-up trucks. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. The famous trail. But since the early days. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail.
000-square-mile Pershing County. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. located on the southern outskirts of town. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. about 17 miles from Lovelock. which the company named after him. which crosses the Humboldt River. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. After eight miles.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. With a population of just over 2. Five miles southwest of the shelter. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. The seat of 6.300. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. George Lovelock. arrived here in 1866. which measures . Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. turn left on Derby Road. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts.
about six miles from downtown Lovelock. Mummified remains were found here. Tufas. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. in 1886 or 1887. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. dark. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. % 702-273-2713. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. Admission is free. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. NV 89419. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. PO Box 821. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. which also features the community pool. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. the first ever in the Great Basin. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. many of which were donated by locals. picnicperfect park. He may have been led there by Natchez. are large. One of only two round courthouses in the country. clothing and household items. Scientific excavations.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. Lovelock. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921.
% 702-273-2713. NV 89419. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. After later taking the name Mark Twain. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. fishing and camping. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. as well as opportunities for boating. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. For details. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. Lovelock. where stone . although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. see below under Adventures. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months.134 n Cowboy Country vada. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. PO Box 821. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. % 702-538-7321. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. Open all year. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. which seems close enough to touch. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. About 16 families reside in Unionville. below) and wellmanicured homes. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. is centered on this man-made lake.
380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. Winnemucca (population 7. the Humboldt Museum complex. except for lunch. Edna Purviance. a good spot for a picnic. % 702-623-2912. Curator . A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. From here it’s five miles to the town. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. % 702/623-2225. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. Admission is free.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. Today their descendants. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. a former resident. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. To reach Unionville from I-80. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. They later brought their families. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. dancing. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover.
% 702-623-1500. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. 95 Bridge Street. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. Winnemucca. % 702-623-5025. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. St. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. The former First National Bank. was erected in 1863. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. 602 Bridge Street. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. 352 Bridge Street. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. Another gem is the Shone House. The tour visits 30 sites. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County.000 in gold. nabbing $32. NV 89445. along with a thank you note. but all are easily drivable. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. NV 89445. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. Winnemucca. US Forest Service. % 800-962-2638. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse.000.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. NV 89445. one of two in the country. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. 705 East Fourth Street. . 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Like something out of old Mexico. The thieves escaped to Texas. % 702623-5025. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. NV 89445. Winnemucca. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. Winnemucca. There is a gift shop next door.
Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. the town was an empty shell. Three years later the village became Paradise City. which serves as a meeting place and information center. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. The Rochester Mining District.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. A 20th-century ghost town. once a busy town of more than 2. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. which . so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. Jungo. after fending off resident Paiutes.300 people had moved by 1913. Today about 100 people live in town. The camp was abandoned by 1869. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. along with the local watering hole. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. and 2. To reach the remains of the camp. established Scottsdale in 1866. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. Midas is two miles from this junction. all but 250 people left. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley.
) Chimney Dam Reservoir. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. It’s the white. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. this town of about 25. Gas is also available. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. A state park. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. fishing and camping. beautiful high-country lake. % 702-623-5025.) In town. biking. The local mining. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. offers a bar. however. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. obtain maps. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. Just south of town. (See Adventures and Camping. In Winnemucca. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. (See Adventures. After all. verdant marshes. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. Basque . % 702-578-3381. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. deli and soda fountain.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. sometimes an angler’s paradise. this is Cowboy Country. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. is easy to locate.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. % 702-7383418. located on the extreme east end of town. Paradise Saloon. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. 1515 Idaho Street.
. % 800-331-1212. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. Displays of local wildlife. and a charter airline. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. % 800-453-9417. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 10 AM to 5 PM. Deweys Rent-A-Car. % 702-738-5131. along with various other events throughout the year. geology and industry abound. 9 AM to 5 PM. % 702-738-7123. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Harris Field. Hertz Rent-A-Car. El Aero Services. % 702-738-7508. also known as J. and Sunday. 1 PM to 5 PM.Touring n 139 immigrants. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. The Western Folklife Center. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. 501 Railroad Street. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. % 800-654-3131. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. geography. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. % 800-8727245. For airport information. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. Admission is free.C. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10.
(See Adventures and Camping. 89803. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. 89801. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. From town. Elko. including the remote. 1601 Idaho Street. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. At the . Elko. 700 Moren Way. % 702-738-5171. Elko Chamber of Commerce. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. Elko. From Elko. Humboldt National Forest. Elko.800 feet). fishing and camping in the entire West. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. making for some of the most beautiful hiking.387 feet at Ruby Dome. Alpine vistas. located southeast of Elko. passing Powerhouse picnic area. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. % 702-753-0200.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. 89801. 976 Mountain City Highway. with elevations ranging up to 11. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. 90. 89801. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. % 702-738-7135. 3900 East Idaho Street. % 800-248-ELKO.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness.
then north another 25 miles. is spectacular. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. From Wells. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. From the south. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. and by the 1930s the rush was over. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. the road meets the Jarbidge River. Idaho. turns south. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. check with the owners of the Trading Post. . The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. so drive cautiously. For access to both. or call them at % 702-488-2315. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. Nevada. down into Jarbidge Canyon. and there’s no argument here. For details on all of this. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. The road leads east 21 miles. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. Yes. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. this town sticks to Mountain Time. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. Ruby Dome. More than 1. rising 11. Even when they are open. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly.500 people flooded into the region.Touring n 141 crest. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. U-shaped valley. see below. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. (See On Foot. is visible in the west. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff.387 feet. a high clearance vehicle is required.
Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. the main difference between the two sides being. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. head east from the border. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . Before entering town. stare out across the famous. stop at Horizon Viewpoint.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. and the 37. however. both available at the Trading Post. The range is also home to Angel Lake. the 44. Bonneville Speedway Museum.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. reached easily via a paved highway. which rises to 11. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. n Wells From Elko. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. of course. This is also the junction of US 93. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. exit at No. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. The town was abandoned in 1942. the main artery running up the east side of the state. % 801-665-7721. 4 and go five miles northeast. Cool. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. For ghost town fans. % 702-752-3215. Sunday until 9 PM. n Wendover From Wells. try Stuart’s Foodtown. the presence of casinos. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. To access the flats. 647 Humboldt Avenue.) On the Utah side of the state line.
Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. is held in late March or early April. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. which gains 1. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. The night before the events.600 feet in two miles. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. falcons and ospreys are common. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. June Both hay. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. which attracts upwards of 10. hawks. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. Eagles.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. a . % 702-664-3414.000 buckaroos. the historic World War II B-29s. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move.
under Touring. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. when tanks.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. July In July. For details. Near Wendover. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. The town of McDermitt. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border.. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. a parade and feats of strength. The largest Basque get-together in the US. Phone numbers can be found above. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. Unless otherwise indicated. hear the music and eat the food. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. There is a traditional dance contest. dancing. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. featuring food. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets.or 23-mile loop. . Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. call % 702-635-8245. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. In Wendover. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. six.
The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. To reach the trail.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. 1994. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. passable by high-clearance vehicles. From the top. The first half of the moderately strenous. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. leads due east toward the highest point. Aspen. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. Star Peak (elevation 9. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush.834 feet). Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. which . turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon.732) is the highest point. willow and cottonwood country. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. From here. To reach the trailhead. The trailhead appears after three miles. Granite Peak (elevation 9. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. the road. Falcon Press Publishing. Pronghorn antelope. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. This makes for a great loop drive. including the 31. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. crossing Buffalo Creek. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. The trail is punishing. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. Chartered in 1989. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. climbing more than 4. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. Star Peak.200 feet.000 feet in four miles.
Horses are welcome on these trails. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. Come prepared for anything. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. depending on weather conditions. The gravel and dirt road runs 5.” Elevations range from 6. including Singas Creek. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada.800 feet above sea . The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. Return the way you came. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. Mountain lions. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. Hikers can visit rock peaks. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. where you turn south.6 miles to a parking area. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. glacial lakes. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. about one mile south of town. big horn sheep. more than 10. narrow canyons. cirque basins.415). although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. % 702-623-5025. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. USGS 7. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. descends toward a watercourse.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11.
set at 9. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. The five-mile. Hyslop. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. % 702-738-7135. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. From Roads End. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet.400 feet. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). The trail then descends from nosebleed country.500 feet. Franklin Lake NW. and his dog Molly. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. The pass is often closed in winter. After about a mile and a half. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. this is the high point of the trek. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier.400 feet and heads north. The 1. Pause to rest but not to fish. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. % 702-752-3357. as there are no trout here. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. so check road conditions before heading out. At 10. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. Feel free.300-foot . of course. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. then descends again to cross Trout Creek.Adventures n 147 level. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. know this region as well as anyone.
making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6.000-foot mark. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. subalpine forests. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip.000 feet to 10. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. Wild- . Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. On a good day. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. The trail drops again. Unfortunately. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. Most of the paths are found in the 113. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. Idaho. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. From the trailhead. Return the way you came. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. Finally. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson.700 feet. Just past the spring. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. the closest town.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. For more information. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. brown and rainbow trout. mountain whitefish.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. is also a good fishing spot. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. call % 702-758-6493. and black bass have become a favorite catch. supports brook. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- .Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. and everything is open year-round. % 702-623-5025. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. rainbows. The site has a paved boat ramp. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. To reach the lake from Elko. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. campsites and restrooms. Channel cats. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir.
white-faced ibis. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. short-eared owl and American kestrel.800 feet. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. Angel Lake Near Wells. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. contact the US Forest Service. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. midway between the northern and southern portions. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. including bald and golden eagle. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. elevation 8. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. At the foot of the range. For more information. . then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. % 702-738-5171. so check road conditions before heading out.000 acres. For an easier drive from Wells. Within six miles of the trailhead. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. trumpeter swam. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. To reach the refuge from Elko. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. great sandhill crane. Turn left and head south 32 miles.154 n Cowboy Country ers. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers.
89801. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko.400-acre lake. HC30 Box 17 #13. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. catfish. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. For more information. Elko Guide Service. Rainbow. % 702-7388473. % 702779-2226. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. HC 60. the spring-fed. Raley’s. are the best bets here. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. % 702-7382775. HC 60. 89833. 89801. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. In warmer months. % 702-777-DIVE. Grandview Marine. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. To reach the 2. 89833. 285 12th Street. crystalline Blue Lakes. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. PO Box 685. PO Box 515. % 702-625-2453. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. % 702779-2268. % 702-664-3414. 89801. 2511 Mountain City Highway. the bowcut trout. have become a local haven for divers. Secret Pass Outfitters. 1250 Lamoille Highway. 89801. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. % 702-7442277. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. 423 South Bridge Street.
lodging and all the extras. restaurant. pool and jacuzzi. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. Trips are limited to 16 people. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. lounge. % 702-738-7135. covering 5. is convenient to I-80. then head west for five miles to town. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. The outfit boasts 5. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. not to mention 74 rooms. . $$. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. Elko SnoBowl. offers 130 acres of terrain.500 feet. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. with a 24-hour casino. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. is the most happening place in town.200 feet. Although there isn’t a television to be found.500 to 6. one tame and the other decidedly not so. To reach the ranch from I80. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. 1420 Cornell Avenue. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. % 800-528-1234. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. ranging from 5.000 acres of skiable mountain. depending on snowfall. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. $-$$. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. 2805 Unionville Road. Lunch and dinner are extra. The Lovelock Inn. 55 Cornell Avenue. % 702-753-6867. $$$.200 vertical feet. % 702-273-2937. % 702-538-7585.
the 170-room Holiday Inn. % 800-262-8901. in- . offers 40 rooms. The Red Lion not only has a casino. $$. and the Motel 6. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. offering 70 rooms. the Super 8. 3015 Idaho Street. a lounge with live entertainment. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. and the Model T Motel. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. restaurant and full bar. the 80-room Val-U Inn. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the Red Lion Inn. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$. $$. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). is for you. The Gold Country Inn. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. the Red Lion Inn. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. $-$$. basic motels on the main drag. % 702-623-3661. 1930 Idaho Street. with 150 rooms. $-$$. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. eateries. $$$. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. $$-$$$$. restaurant and bar. $$. % 702-738-8421. % 702-738-8425. % 702-625-1818. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-3646. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. including the queen of Elko establishments. the Ameritel Inn Elko. $-$$. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the generic. % 702-738-8787. $$$$$. % 702-7387261. and the Days Inn. casino. % 800-633-6435. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. and the Holiday Motel. $-$$. % 702-623-5248. % 702-623-1180. There are plenty of cheap.000. There are also two Best Westerns. a pool and 223 rooms. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 837 Idaho Street. % 800-645-5658. Casino Express. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. % 702-623-1116. 2065 Idaho Street. $$. starting with the two biggies. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. $$-$$$. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. 400 1st Street. 2050 Idaho Street. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. % 800-545-0044. the Gold Country Motor Inn. % 800-346-5306. but also its own charter airline.
345 Idaho Street. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. $$. $$-$$$. Just outside of Lamoille. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. PO Box 281208. has 70 rooms. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. % 702-738-8488. Stonehouse Country Inn. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. $$$-$$$$. along with a pool. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. % 702-753-6356. % 702-753-6281. % 702-738-5141. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. The Shilo Inn. $$$-$$$$. bar and pool. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. a swimming pool.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. Jiggs Guest Ranch. . PO Box 281381. 340 Commercial Street. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. including skeet shooting. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. $-$$. % 702-738-5522. There is even space for campers and RVers. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. % 702-753-6363. and the Thunderbird Motel. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. $$$-$$$$. restaurants. some with kitchenettes. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. is an exclusive. $-$$. Red’s Ranch. Stockmen’s Hotel. $$. % 702-738-7115. Away from Idaho Street. 1755 Idaho Street. $-$$. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. $$$$. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. jacuzzi and fitness center. $$-$$$. There are 141 rooms. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. Lamoille. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. detached cabin with jacuzzi. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. 2401 Mountain City Highway. % 702-578-3530. 89828. biking and horseback riding. hiking and fly fishing.
most of them planted along 6th Street. $. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. PO Box 300. HC 62. On the north side of town. % 702-752-2151. The Super 8. % 702-752-3384. 456 6th Street. $. % 702-488-2315. If not. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. $-$$$$. % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge. % 702-752-2116. For more information. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. HC 62. % 800-848-7300. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. $$$-$$$$. % 702-752-2101. % 702-752-3888. $-$$. if you’re into chains. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. $-$$. 100 Wendover Boulevard. even by the neighbors in Utah. $. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. 326 6th Street. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. $$-$$$. % 702-752-3353. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. $-$$. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. Together . the Outdoor Inn. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. % 702-752-2277. and the Old West Inn. the Rest Inn Suites. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. 930 6th Street. 89826.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. offers another 24 rooms. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. 1250 East 6th Street. PO Box 1300. % 702-7523065. There are 57 rooms. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. On Main Street. % 702-488-2311. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. Cottonwood Ranch. % 702-4082338. and the Best Western Sage Motel. PO Box 260090. $$-$$$. $. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. 576 6th Street. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. the Chinatown Motel. There are more than 1.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. has 56 rooms. Down the street. which also has a restaurant and bar. $-$$. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post.
1420 Cornell Avenue. lounges. jacuzzi. serving steak. with 90 rooms. and Pizza Factory. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. offers breakfast. 410 Cornell Avenue. tennis courts. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. % 702-273-7773. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. % 702-273-3232. lunch and dinner. pool and jacuzzi. 260 Maine Street. 750 Cornell Avenue. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. restaurants. Wee B’s Pizza & More. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. including restaurants and lounges. 9 PM on Sunday. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. % 800-648-9660. a health club. $$. 1325 Wendover Boulevard.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. . do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. % 702-273-2971. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. La Casita. % 702-273-2442. % 800-537-0207. $-$$. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. along with daily specials. which has live entertainment. is open until 10 PM every day. % 702-664-2888. shrimp and Basque side dishes. $$-$$$. 680 Wendover Boulevard. live entertainment. % 702-273-7444. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. leg of lamb. Mexican food and pizza. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. Nearby. pool.000-square-foot casino. the Super 8. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. % 702-623-3197. live showroom entertainment. a 14. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. is another gamer’s haven. which basks in the Basque tradition. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. The Peppermill Hotel. and until 2 PM on Sunday. 485 Cornell Avenue. In the center of town. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. 1035 Wendover Boulevard.
The atmosphere is definitely casual. Specializing in steak. 405 Silver Street. since 1863. 340 Commercial Street. % 702-623-2908. 1550 Idaho Street. 180 Melarkey Street. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-4104. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. while The Griddle. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. The Steak House. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. % 702-623-3455. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. home of the world’s largest potato field. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-4440. % 702-738-9691. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. Restaurante San Fermin.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. % 702-625-2555. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. Another Basque establishment. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. This being ranch country. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. but get there before 1 PM. China Garden. all of their meat is cut to order. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. % 702-623-2977. Toki Ona. % 800-545-0044. % 702-738-3214. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. . Stockmen’s Hotel. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. % 702-623-6777. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. 95 South Bridge Street. 1061 West Fourth Street. seafood and chicken. % 702-738-5141. 2065 Idaho Street. Elko The Red Lion Inn.
in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. 2525 Mountain City Highway. % 702-752-3210. % 702-753-6363. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. % 702-738-1622. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. delivers on its name. % 702-488-2311. Pizza Barn. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. La Fiesta. Prices range from moderate to expensive. Pine Lodge. opens daily at 11 AM. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. Main and Humboldt Streets. 1740 Mountain City Highway. Burger Bar. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. % 702-753-3877. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. 780 Commercial Street. % 702-738-7898. depending on weather conditions. If you crave Mexican food. % 702-7382541. . also serves hearty meals. % 702-753-6356. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. 9 Beans and a Burrito. % 702-738-7088. 217 Idaho Street.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. to peruse the ornate bar. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. % 702-4882315.300 souls. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. where it survived The Big One in ’06. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates.
offer 12 different restaurants. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. Sites 22. The Peppermill Hotel. call % 702-738-5171.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area.600 feet. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. 680 Wendover Boulevard.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. $3 per night in winter. which holds trout and walleye. call % 702-538-7321. The fee is $7 per night. % 800-648-9660. 25. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. Set at 7.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. two beautiful US Forest Service . 100 Wendover Boulevard. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. call % 800-962-2638. For modern hunter-gatherers. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. just north of the dam. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. the area has two campgrounds. located at the end of Hanson Street. For more information. There is running water and vault toilets. The main draw here is 11. Set at 7. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. 27 and 29 are especially good. For more information. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people.400 feet. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. 23. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. % 800-848-7300. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. Fees are $7 per night in summer. For more information. $8 for a two-family site.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. 22 miles north of Lovelock. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. The other one. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway.
Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. has 37 first-come. The campground. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. % 702-752-3357. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir.900 feet.500 feet. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. . including three run by the US Forest Service. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. One mile north of town. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. For information on the above campgrounds. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. % 208-5434129. but no running water. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. About five miles up NV 225. first-served sites. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. offering 18 sites with running water.800 feet and is popular with anglers. The fee is $5 per night. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. all free. Angel Creek is set at 6. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. and are open June to October. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. For more information. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. Set at 8. and the fee is $7 per night. depending on the availability of running water. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. and the fee is $8 per night. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. The cabins are open October through mid-May. with running water.
Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. an 11. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. US For- B Pioneer Territory .949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. like Belmont and Rhyolite. however. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. Meanwhile. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. who once roamed this entire area. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. both socially and physically. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. Others.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. writer. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. are in a state of “arrested decay. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. temperatures routinely climb above 120°.000. Department of Defense. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. and six state parks to explore. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. Rocky Mountain elk. In the lowlands. Geographically. In the Mojave Desert. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. Nevada Division of State Parks. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. low taxes. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory.Touring n 167 est Service. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. affordable housing . then limber pine at higher elevations. People and services are scarce. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. but the rest of the country. Toiyabe. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills.
Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. as of this writing. contact the Chamber of Commerce. It’s also one of the hottest. % 702-7270896. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. there’s no competition). authorizing up to 90. The 22. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. 3810 Winery Road. In 1997. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. According to Winona LaDuke. % 702-727-5800. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. only winery in Nevada. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. blue and white building. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. 1771 Sagehen Road. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . Information Sources For more Pahrump information. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. 1141 South Highway 160. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. On the south end of town in a modern. mission-style. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. % 702-7276900. is the first and. % 702-751-0821. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM).
% 702-372-1131. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. Visitors can. and the second-greatest in all of North America. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. for some handmade Mexican food. inaccessible to the general public. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. NV 89020. mallards. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season.300 spread over 545 square miles. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. moorhens. however. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. prairie falcons. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. Amargosa Valley. coots. then head west for about 20 miles. whitefaced ibises. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. following the signs to Ash Meadows. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. including ducks. great blue herons. coyotes and rabbits. . whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. % 702-372-5435. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. Box 610Z. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. snipe. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. It’s no easy job. HCR 70.
50 saloons. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. three newspapers. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. Now recognized as a state historic site. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. maps. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. Kelly’s Bottle House.000 claims over 30 square miles.000. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. PO Box 6102. the gray.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. 19 hotels. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. and the old train depot. % 702-5532200. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Amargosa Valley. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. % 702-3725459. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. HC 70. NV 89020. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street.000. for more information. . The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles.
the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range.” a collection of white. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. Today the remains of stone buildings. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel.000. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. however. In the first decade of the 20th century.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. By 1920. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984.000 dizzy with gold fever. constructed in 1908 for $500. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. life-size. turn-of-the-century frontier community. when the money ran dry. % 702-553-2424. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. crystal chandeliers. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. keeping a population of more than 20. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. Once the largest city in the state. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. Goldfield Founded in 1902. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. . which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. Local residents were used as models. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks.
172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. 301 Brougher Avenue. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. and east-west-running US 6. built in 1908 and still in use today. Before heading out. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. including the old post office that is now the local museum. however. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. % 702-482-9676. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. % 702482-3558. the Central Nevada Museum. . About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. and spend a few hours following its trail. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. % 702-485-6365.
Like many Nevada locales. Located on the north edge of town. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. which total more than 260. 9 AM to 5 PM.000 acres. As a judge. with Hawthorne the new seat. In 1911. are available by special request. which dates to 1906. For more information. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. ore bins. the town exploded – figuratively – and . state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. call % 702-482-5355. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. slide show and research facilities. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. power plants. As this is being written. photographs and exhibits. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. Admission is free. For more on these wonderful regions. which helped put the state on the map. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. Bartlett House. including a map room. and the 1907 George A. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. see below under On Foot. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. Mineral. The museum is open daily. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. A library. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor.
The Mineral County Museum. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. a combination truck stop.000 residents. cameras and photography. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. just three miles from the California border. (See On Water.500 people. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. Victorian furniture. noon to 4 PM in winter. To see where it all started. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. fire and railroad equipment. rocks. 898 E Street. % 702-945-3266. at the corner of 10th and D streets. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. below. To reach Candelaria.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. paved road on the right. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. % 702-945-5142. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. restaurant and Native American gift shop. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. Nevada seat and the Mono . minerals. Near the northern tip of the lake.) Before heading to the lake. is nearby Walker Lake.000. Take this road six miles to the town. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. The museum is open Monday through Friday. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. The main attraction. At the zenith of its existence. however. the town boasted 1. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. Admission is free. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. and by 1890 the good times were over. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. wildlife and fossils.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. Boats are not recommended. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. but travel is not advised during winter months.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. From Caliente. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. From . contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. The 2. The park. pinyon and juniper forests.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. native plants and unique rock formations. There are 42 campsites. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. set at 5. along with many other events. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. For information on any or all. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. below). % 702-728-4467. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March.200 feet. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. is open year-round. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. All of them offer overnight camping. located in a long.
head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. The original building costs totaled $16. for a walking/driving tour map. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. government cover-ups. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. they ran up to $1 million.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. Packed with historic points of interest. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. Winter travelers might also find snow here. men in black and all things conspiratorial. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. true believers theorize. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. From Caliente. All told. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. hazy afternoon. % 702-962-5215. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . There are 37 campsites. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine.000. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years.
but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. a bar and cemetery. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. a thought scarier than any little green men. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. or fish lizards. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. selling souvenirs and literature. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. % 702-729-2515. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. sleeping quarters. The park is open all year. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. including the old mill. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. Ichthyosaurs. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. If you’re in the neighborhood.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike.
follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. October and November. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. July. Interpretive tours are held in March. to NV 884.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. call % 702-867-3001. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. The trail climbs nearly 2. To reach the park from Hawthorne. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. April. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. elk. There are numerous access points to the 115. From here. following a stream into Trail Canyon. then half a mile east. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. The trail seems faint at times. and roll on six more miles to the parking area.000 feet in 3½ miles. up through the sparse forest of . To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. through Gabbs. June. The hike begins on the road. Return the way you came. the highest point in Nevada at 13. travel west six miles to NV 773. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. For more information. August. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. turn right. mountain lion. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. Located in the relatively dry. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. From here go seven miles to a junction. where desert bighorn sheep. deer. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes.140 feet.
Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. nine miles from the trailhead. The path descends further. Pine Creek. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range.020-foot Peavine Peak. up and up alongside the South Twin River. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. About a mile and a half later. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. where it crosses the water several times. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. pinyon pine and juniper. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. the trail gains 1. and at higher elevations. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. Consult Toms Canyon. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. another narrow. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. The main trail leads straight ahead. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. The 38. too.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. USGS quads for Carvers NW. limber pine. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). About 500 yards beyond the mill. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. see the Pony Express Territory chapter.361-foot Arc Dome. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. . reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail.
gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline.949 feet above sea level. mountain lion. south. In fact. It was used as a hunting camp 5. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. 11. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. which tops out at 11. literally and figuratively. The summit trail.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. . Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. which marks the way to Pine Creek. is imposing Mount Jefferson. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. The high point. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. After turning west. Return the way you came. Turn left and head toward the highest point.000 years ago. From Tonopah. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. deer and coyote. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. is lined with aspen and birch. going west. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails.
the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. The 98. so travel with care. climbing up the creek drainage. The main trail continues straight ahead. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. From the trailhead. As you’ll see.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. and the skills to use them. Elk. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. set aside in 1989. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). The trail first splits at mile three. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. To complete a nice loop hike. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. Hikers should have maps and a compass. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain.856foot Monitor Peak. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. rugged country. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. with Dry Lake off to the west.000 acres. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. This is remote. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek.
the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. some will lead hikes and photography trips. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. % 702-4826286. 1997. . Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Meanwhile. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. Wilderness Press. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. refer to Michael C. White’s masterful book. Enjoy the views. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. Also close by. then continue south two miles back to the campground. then descending into Ash Canyon. Once atop the plateau. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. in Echo Canyon State Park. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. crosses the water and begins a steep. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. the route goes generally north and east to a junction.
PO Box 168. 27 Smith Gage Road. 89025.108 feet. % 702-482-6258. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. you’ve gone too far. Lund Gary Luisetti.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. % 702-964-1207. Just beyond the right-of-way. 89317. then continues south to a junction. Nicholas Perchetti. HCR 60. % 702-964-2145. turn left and head due south. Stahl. Jr. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. leaving a strenuous. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. The road turns east briefly. Yerington Marty S. Box 77206. at 9. Round Mountain William A. PO Box 162. Moapa Adam R. % 702-283-7797. Expeditions Unlimited. % 702-465-2598. James S. which. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. . Howard. Galvin. Berg. 89049. % 702-482-6422.. 89447. climbing into a small valley. Roy Lerg. Grand Slam Safaris. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. 89045. Lewis. PO Box 725. Timberline Outfitters. (If you pass Millers. Mustang Outfitters. 8½ miles from US 95. 89430. 89049. 89045. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. % 702-463-4497. PO Box 65. Mason Valley Guide Service. Timberline Outfitters. Smith. unmarked hike to the summit. PO Box 1149. PO Box 428. The latter path right peters out after half a mile.
then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. which was first settled in the 1860s.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. is open for business on weekends. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. known for abundant wildlife. Belmont saw most of the 2.000 to construct in 1876.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. Just north of Pine Creek. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . Round Mountain Gold still operates here. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. The Belmont Saloon. so keep your distance. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. however. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. % 702-482-6331. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. Manhattan boomed. The other ruins are on private property. % 702377-2490. Continuing north. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. A few dozen people still live in the area. and Pine Creek. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. For road conditions. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes.
Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. As tempting as a bath might seem. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. Continuing north. Pioneer Territory Mt.2 mile west of Lockes going south. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. . A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Take an unpaved road . the fauna changes to ponderosa. but check on road conditions before you go. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. mountain mahogany and aspen. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. The springs are half a mile away. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. to establish missions. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. Wilson National Back Country Byway. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. Not only is the water very hot. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. % 702-482-7800. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. For more information contact the BLM. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. From Pioche. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. then part of Utah Territory. stay out. Three hot pools are found on two acres here.
At Oakridge Landing. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. Just a mile north of Dyer. Information Sources For more information and a map. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. brown. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. 5340 South Oakridge Road. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. cutthroat and rainbow trout. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. 13. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. Two of the best spots are Peavine . Brookies and cutthroat also abound. % 702-727-8276. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. % 702289-4865. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. % 702727-4504. contact the BLM.140-foot Boundary Peak.
with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18.7 miles north of Hawthorne). Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. rainbow and brown trout. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. however. In fact. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. . exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. Beginning at the southern end of the lake.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9.4 miles). casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. Fishing derbies are held in February. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. April. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. % 702-482-6286. picnic facilities and boat ramp.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. After the road peters out. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s.000 acres. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). Covering 37. The lake is named for Joe Walker. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. October and November. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival.
The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. largemouth bass and white crappie. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. NV 89415. CA. 633 Schley Street. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. about 13 miles south of the confluence. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. Boaters are welcome. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. % 702-394-4040. % 702-725-3417. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. for details.000 acres. but motors are prohibited. Brown trout. Howe. while Canada geese. 93514. % 760-872-2533 . Classic Anglers. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Contact the refuge office. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. write the group at PO Box 867. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. Bishop. Kathleen L. which are stocked in spring and fall. are the main attraction here. Hawthorne. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. about conditions and weather reports before heading out.
Howard. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. % 702-482-6258. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. at least temporarily. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. 1220 South Highway 160. Mason Valley Guide Service. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. The big enchilada is Saddle West. home on the range. Galvin. The family-style outings. Nicholas Perchetti. 89045.. % 702-3721717. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. Tonopah Stanley R. PO Box 65. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. Jr. % 702-964-1207. 89447. % 702-964-2145. PO Box 168. Box 77206. 89104. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. Timberline Outfitters. 89045. PO Box 1149. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. % 702-482-6422. % 702-889-8844. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. Berg. PO Box 725. HCR 60. Mustang Outfitters. 89049. 89049. Timberline Outfitters. Stahl. James S.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . Advance reservations are highly suggested. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Suite 9B.
In short. The Exchange Club Motel. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. hair salon. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. US 95 at First Street. including a heated pool. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. % 702-727-5100. a restaurant. $. lounge. % 702-4853431. a casino with live 21. $-$$. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. casino and lounge. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. 9000 North 5th Avenue. was built in 1905. With 110 rooms. $-$$. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. while the inn offers laundry services. . $-$$. There are 60 rooms. % 702-553-2333. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. non-smoking rooms and a pool. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. 420 West Main Street. $-$$. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. $-$$. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. % 800-508-9493. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. % 702-553-2250. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. % 702-727-5445. 604 Main Street. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. along with a pool and honeymoon room. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. Highway 160 at Loop Road. $. though. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. A lounge with live entertainment. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. % 702-553-2225. a convenience store. $-$$. $-$$. has 32 rooms. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. % 702553-2912. Don’t worry. which has 30 rooms and a pool. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. $-$$. The other two motels are the El Portal. 1201 South Highway 160.
255 Main Street. % 702-945-3321. % 702-482-6238. If you’re into chains. restaurants. 1301 5th Street. a casino. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. 700 Main Street. $. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. 100 South Main Street. The . at very reasonable rates. and the sprawling Station House. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. $. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. a restaurant and bar. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. Just a block away. This place has it all: 75 rooms. Location. % 702-945-2660. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. % 702-482-6202. There are 103 rooms. has been catering to travelers since 1943. 1402 5th Street. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. Even dogs are welcome.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. 521 North Main Street. $. $-$$. % 702-945-3352. including four two-bedroom units. two restaurants. % 702482-5920. $. $. 323 Main Street. 100 North Main Street. and the 33-room Clown Motel. $$. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. arcade and laundry. has 39 rooms. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. Dating back to 1908. also has a pool. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. 826 Main Street. % 702-482-3577. The Best Western Desert Lodge. % 702-482-6224. the Butler has 25 rooms. Adjacent to Walker Lake. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. a heated pool and a small play area. which has 93 rooms. a Jacuzzi and a pool. $$. $. 1 Cliff House Road. comes highly rated. % 702-945-2444. 1100 Main Street. $. % 702-482-9777. lounge with entertainment. RV hookups. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. lounge. $. a restaurant and free coffee. workout equipment. a casino. 540 F Street. pool and free in-room coffee. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. % 702-482-6291. with 40 rooms. % 702-482-3511. The Jim Butler Motel. with a restaurant. free movies and is close to the convention center. $. It has 94 rooms. location. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. RV parking and free continental breakfast. Some of the larger. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach.
The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. $$. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. the Hawthorne. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. The Casa Blanca. has 67 rooms. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. 390 North Sandhill Road. . fitness center and live music. % 702-463-2998. which at last count had 1. % 702-463-2991. bars. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. $-$$. and the Rocket.900 or so residents. a pool. live entertainment. $-$$. $-$$. $. entertainment. 301 Mesa Boulevard.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. a 925-seat showroom.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. Jacuzzi. % 800-346-7721. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. pool. including dozens of suites. a lounge. restaurants. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. $$-$$$. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. 965 Sierra Highway. % 702-465-2959. 694 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-2544. on the corner of 5th and J streets. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. golf course. $-$$$. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. has five rooms. RV park and four bungalows. formerly Players Island. a pair of family-style restaurants. 11 North Main Street. 950 Mesquite Boulevard.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. pool and movie theater. $. movie theater and kids’ play area. a pool and a hot tub. $$-$$$. Run by the Masini family. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. has 700 rooms. airport shuttle. % 702-463-2481. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. % 800-346-4611. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. which has two non-smoking rooms. bowling alley. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. % 702-945-3316. $$-$$$. % 702-465-2341. % 800-896-4567. $$. with a 24-hour casino. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. 2827 Highway 208. Jacuzzi. 720 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-2143. 39 North Center Street. $. % 702-346-7444. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. % 800-621-0187. which has 14 rooms. a golf course. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. which has 14 rooms. with blueprints for hundreds more. various restaurants. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. To find a quieter environment. $$. $. % 702-945-2573. Just west of Smith in Wellington. family fun center and an airport shuttle. pool. pool and spa. tennis courts. Jacuzzi. % 702-465-2573. $-$$.
is open 24 hours a day. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. $. % 702726-3777. Rose Garden. % 702-751-7777. 601 South Highway 160. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. % 702-727-7777. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. $. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. % 702-729-2515. 450 Front Street. $. % 702-9625404. and welcomes pets. Flying saucer parking is out back. % 702-727-6440. a restaurant and bar. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. $-$$. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese.99. has 13 rooms. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. % 702-962-5551. the Silver Spur. $-$$. 100 West Stagecoach Road. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. Stagestop Casino. Besides. which has 22 rooms. . pharmacy and bank. No fast food. % 702-727-0909. At Saddle West Casino. also have full-service restaurants. % 702-726-3106. 100 LaCour Street. % 702-727-7300. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. 884 A Street. and the buffet starts at $2. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. $. which has five rooms. % 702-727-2404. % 702-726-3291. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. 1220 South Highway 160.
Maggies. 11 North Main Street. Yerington Casino West. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. % 702-5532225. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. fill the menu. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. % 702-482-6202. 100 North Main Street. also has a 24-hour café. % 702-945-3320. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. you could do worse than El Marques. including excellent seafood. is the home of two restaurants. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. has a great $7. The . If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. Traditional American and Continental fare. 501 I Street. 570 E Street. 348 North Main Street. and Burro Inn.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. The Exchange Club. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. % 702-9452994. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. 1100 Main Street. % 702-4823885. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. % 702-463-2481. % 702-945-3321. try Happy Buddha. % 702-945-1700. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. open until 9 PM. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. 1291 5th Street. % 702-945-5253. 540 F Street. % 702-945-3908. % 702-553-2111. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. % 702482-9777. The Station House. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. 785 E Street. % 800508-9493. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. % 702-945-2727. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. % 702-553-2368. also have family-style restaurants. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. 923 5th Street.
which serves breakfast.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. % 702463-2868. satisfying and never-ending. % 800-896-4567. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. 950 Mesquite Boulevard.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. lunch and dinner. Peavine Campground is set at 6. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. along with the usual buffet. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. % 702-463-2054. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. There’s even an indoor workout facility. Carl’s Burgers. Dini’s Luck Club. 11 North ALT 95. 702-726-3138. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. has a 24-hour coffee shop. 45 North Main Street. To reach the campground from Tonopah. 2281 West Scales Way. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. is like a blast from the 50s. % 702-727-2314. % 800-346-7721. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. Two blocks up. % 800-621-0187. The Mason Valley Country Club. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. % 702-4633707. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. 111 Highway 208. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. serves breakfast. The Casa Blanca. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. % 702-4623300. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. % 702-7263194. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. The Virgin River Hotel. 915 Mesquite Boulevard.
For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. To reach the campground from Tonopah. To reach the campground from Tonopah. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. % 702-687-6100. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. % 702-4826286. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. see On Foot. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. There is no running water and no fee. offers sites for $11 per night. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. above. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. From Tonopah. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. through Belmont. There are 11 sites set at 6. For information. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. For directions. the unpaved road goes south briefly. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. The campground is another three miles away.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. From here. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers.100foot level. % 702-945-3373. contact the BLM. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle.800 feet in the Monitor Range. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. . providing access to fishing and hiking. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7.700 feet. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right.
Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. 1994. 1995. Falcon Press Publishing. Basin and Range by John McPhee. Suggested Reading .Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. 1998. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. 1997. DeLorme. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. David Communications. 1995. They are listed in alphabetical order. Falcon Press Publishing. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. 1990. 1993. Henry Holt and Company. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. American Automobile Association. 1996. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. Noonday Press. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. Frank Amato Publications. published by the State of Nevada. Moon Publishing. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. 1993. American Automobile Association. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. 1997.
American & Geographic World Publishing. Legend and Description by David J. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. 1995. 1993. 1993. Mojave Books. . Roughing It by Mark Twain. 1997. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. La Siesta Press. 1969.. Stolley.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. Falcon Press Publishing. Falcon Press Publishing. The Globe Pequot Press. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. 1997. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. White. Maturi. Jr. Gem Guides Book Company. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Bischoff. 1992. Clark. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. 1997. Wilderness Press. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C.
27 books. restaurants. 168-169. 200 Basque people. see also camping. 197. 76. 91 Barley Creek. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. specific towns airlines. see water sports car rental. biking. Pony Express territory. 163-164. Cottonwood Valley. 85. 41-43. 142. 75-76. 104. 187-188 biking. Leonard Rock Shelter. biking. 123 Baker Lake Trail. Elko. wildlife and bird watching antelope. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 174-175 Austin. price scale. 155 boating. 194. hiking outfit- Index . 200 altitude sickness. 156160. 146. 27. fishing. events. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. outfitters. 132. 126. events. horseback riding. 115-116 ballooning. 184. 78. 48-49. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 199-201. 154 animal life. 179. 187-190. 113. 34-35 Boundary Peak. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. wild. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. Pioneer territory. 121. 118. 17. Ichthyosaur State Park. touring. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 119-120. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 194. Pony Express territory. 120-123. 94-95. 43-44. 3135. safety rules. 15-16 bird watching. 117-118. 103. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 164. transportation. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 13-15. camping. camping. 182. Bonneville Salt Flats. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 67 bowling. 32. Las Vegas. 144. 183-184. festivals. 86. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 2. restaurants.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. fishing. 67-70.183. 186 Belmont. accommodations. accommodations. 10-12. 132-133. 152. 142. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 181-182. 137 Candelaria. 117. 193. camping. 169-170 Anasazi people. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 118. 13. 182-183. 198. Reno-Tahoe area. biking. Reno-Tahoe area. 144. 42 burros. 193 Aurora. 199. 10. 78 BLM. 49. Pioneer territory. 102. 38. 15-16. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 198. 135. Las Vegas area. see transportation air tours. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 144 backpacking. 36. hiking. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 104-107. 131. restaurants. 89. 174 canoeing. 115. touring. pictographs art galleries. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 193-197. 29. 46. restaurants. Las Vegas territory. 185. camping. 50-52. Reno-Tahoe area. see also zoos. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 54-55. Lovelock Indian Cave. 123. 179. 15-16. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 169. see also petroglyphs. 17. 77. special events. wagon trips. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). skydiving. touring. 35. 92-96. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. Pony Express territory. camping. 129-130 bungee jumping. Pioneer territory. 117-119. 124 auto racing. 26-27 buses. 8386. touring. 125-128. see transportation Carson City. 28. Mount Jefferson. hiking. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. safety rules. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 187-190. 152.
80. 112. 171.. Midas. 12. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. fishing. Camp Winfield Scott. 98. 174-175. 116. 111. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 153 Chimney Springs. 143. 22. 125. camping. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 119.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 106 diving. 112 Genoa. 12. outfitters. 186 elk. accommodations. outfitters. Pony Express territory.5 Cathedral Gorge. Shermantown. 77. touring. 150-151. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 109. fishing. 74 Death Valley National Park. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 117. fishing. 177. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 122-123. biking. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 124. 73. 121-122. 139140 Ely. 125. 178. 125. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. Hamilton. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 115 Gold Center. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. restaurants. 175 climate. 4-5 Gardnerville. 15-16. auto racing. 35-36. pupfish. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 179. camping. 14 Colorado River. 172 golf. 6-7 ters. 137. 152. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. camping. touring. 184. 177. 29. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 75. 155. 137. camping. Treasure City. 100. 109. Lehman Caves. 185. Dunn Hatchery. camping. horseback riding. 188-189 fishing. restaurants. Las Vegas territory. 149-150. 170-171 Denio Junction. touring. 147-148 Eberhardt. springfish. 174. Reno-Tahoe territory. 116-117. 176. 142. 98 fossils. 143-144. 182. Jungo. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 131. outfitters. 187-190. 3. Lake Tahoe area. Las Vegas area. 67. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 108 events: Cowboy country. hiking. 126. 40. camping. 119-120. accommodations. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 78 casinos. Toquima Cave. safety rules. Lovelock Indian Cave. 190-193. 134-135. Gold Center. restaurants. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 75. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. sport-climbing ratings. 120-121. 87 Dayton. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 37-41. 139. events. 180 Earth Connections. 167. hiking outfitters. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. John C. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 179. Cowboy country. 142 Great Basin. 43-44. 15-16 Fremont. 139 cruises. Rhyolite. 163-164. Northumberland Cave. 18-19 climbing. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 157-158. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. skiing. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. camping. Metropolis. 137. 190 . 188-189 Clemens. restaurants. Pioneer territory. 46 Comstock Lode. transportation. 4. Rochester Mining District. 70-71. accommodations. touring. 120. 106. 70. 179. 132-133. 112. 109. Reno-Tahoe area. 194-195. 83. 79. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 137. camping. Pioneer territory. hiking. 144. 86. 82. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 118. 119. 170. 138-139. 200 Cowboy Country. outfitters. 13-15. special events. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 89. Samuel. 179. Eberhardt. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 74. Las Vegas area. 97. 152-155. 121. see events fish. 168. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 176. 155-156. 127. 171-172 Gold Point. 88. 109 Glacier Trail. 160 Goshute Mountains. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 161-162. touring. hiking. 102-104. mercury warnings. 110. fishing. 65 gambling. 170. Candelaria. 17. 126-127. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 44-48. 192. 185. restaurants. 169.
Las Vegas. events. 106. Pony Express territory.Index Great Basin National Park. 99-100. 48. 48-49. air tours. 130. special events. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. Pony Express territory. fishing. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 177 mercury warnings. 53-54. 31-35. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. RenoTahoe territory. 162. 132 Lexington Arch. 41. 37-40. restaurants. Pioneer territory. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. 150. Las Vegas territory. Las Vegas area. 43. 159. 186-187. 148-149 jeep tours. Spencer’s Hot Springs. hiking outfitters. 116-117. 66. 32 horseback riding. 198. 181-187. 118 Lone Mountain. 41-43. touring. 165-167. Reno. Reno-Tahoe territory. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. restaurants. 163. 47. touring. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. 47 lakes. 112-117. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. camping. 83-84. 82. 82. 91-92. 39. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 64. touring and transportation. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 83. 188-189. 176. snow sports outfitters. 98. state. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. outfitters. biking. 3536. Midas Hot Spring. 162. 44 Las Vegas territory. 118. 77. horseback riding. map. 152. 63-66. 37-41. 24. 65 Lake Tahoe region. hiking. balloning and soaring. 46. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 164. 153. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 166. restaurants. 75. 46. 4WD trail. Reno-Tahoe territory. camping. biking. 141-142. 65. 32-33. 156. touring. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. camping. 52-53. water sports. 120 Incline Village. restaurants. Kyle Hot Spring. camping. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 40. 90. touring. Cowboy country. touring. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 117 hotels. 38. 91 information sources. 148-149 Humboldt River. Pioneer territory. Pioneer territory. 78. camping. 55. 70 Humboldt National Forest. transportation. 160. 49-50. boating outfitters. 200-201. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 32-33 Lake Mohave. 57-58. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 46. outfitters. 28. 145-150. 21-22. 1. hiking. camping. 54. 102. 23-29. Pony Express territory. 86. 137 kayaking. 90 helicopter tours. 29-31. camping. 79. 111. touring. restaurants. 110-112. 179 Kingston. 78-79 Jungo. 20. 125. skiing. 127. 101. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. hiking. 93. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 62. 83. 195-196. fishing. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 13-15. 150. 45. 119 Index . transportation. 129-131. 193. transportation. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. Walley’s Hot Springs. Nevada. 140-141 land. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 80-81 hiking. touring. description of. hiking outfitters. watersports. 149. 107. 192. 40-41. 151. camping. 187 Manhattan. see air tours Hemenway Park. restaurants. 103 Hamilton. 57. 146. 64. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 60. hiking. accommodations. 50-52. 88. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. Las Vegas territory. skiing. 149-150. 158. 36. outfitters. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 39 history: Cowboy country. events. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area.
8. 165 nuclear waste. 67. 165. 4. 199 Metropolis. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 43. John. 200. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 25. 61. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 31. 183. Guinness World of Records Museum. touring. 135. 173. restaurants. 69. restaurants. 29. 68. Western Folklife Center. 196197. 68. Brewery Arts Center. 33. Lost City Museum. 26. 72-73.206 n Index seum. 158. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 127 pictographs. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 77. 139. 86. 26. Capitol Building and Museum. 4. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 69. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 106 Pine Creek: camping. Piper’s Opera House. Marzen House Museum. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 200 motels. 73. Central Nevada Museum. 106 nuclear testing. 173. 26. Clark County Heritage Museum. Nevada Historical Society. May Museum and Arboretum. 2. 174. The Castle. 70. 25. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 26. 163. 23 Overton: touring. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 181 Moapa. horseback riding. 34. Mark Twain Museum. Lyon County Muserum. 61. 2. 72. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 178. see biking mountain biking. 187 Mojave Desert. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 177. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 61. Colorado River Museum. touring. The Way It Was Museum. 173. Desert Valley Museum. 133. 29 Mount Jefferson. 102. National Automobile Museum. 25-26. 174. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 107. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. see biking Mount Charleston. 73. 71. 167-168 Paiutes. 34. 75. 142 Midas. 34. 107. 78. 34. 177. 153. 43. 80-81 Native American festivals. 109-110. camping. 71. 61. Stewart Indian Museum. 83. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 175. 135136. 175. 171. Nevada State Mu- . fishing. Las Vegas Art Museum. 73. 25. 70-71 mines and mining. 199-200. 98. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. Humbolt Museum. White Pine Public Museum. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 23. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 2. 35. Marshall Mint Museum. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. touring. 109. 61 music and theater. Keck Minerals Museum. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. fishing. 25. 134 petroglyphs. see accommodations motorcycles. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 193-194. hiking. hiking. 25. 177. 71. 10. 8182 Mesquite. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 139. 79. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 108. 11 Mosquito Creek. 199. camping. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 91. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 68. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 69. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. Mineral County Museum. 126. fishing. 174. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 73. Fleischmann Planetarium. Nevada State Library & Archives. 188. Roberts House Museum. 69. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 170. 197-198. Northeastern Nevada Museum. Liberace Museum. 180 Minden: events. 73. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 142. 189-190 Muir. Wilbur D. 69. 32. outfitters. Churchill County Museum & Archives. skiing and snowboarding. hiking outfitters. accommodations. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 171. 103. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 3-4. 153 Northumberland Cave. Genoa Courthouse Museum.
163. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 114-115 theater. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 150-151. 170 rivers. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 173 Index . 117. skiing. Benjamin “Bugsy. 106 Spooner Lake. 36. see climbing rock hunting. 88 Shermantown. 193. 89. 98. 9697. 17. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 113. camping. 84. 77. 193. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 195. restaurants. 179 Searchlight. 129-130. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 42. 9-10. 197 rafting. biking. 142. 156. motorcycle. 83-84. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 75 Stella Lake: hiking. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 79-80. 143. climbing and hiking. water sports. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 17. 185-186. 76. 80 pronghorn antelope. hiking and climbing. 163. see skiing snowmobiling. Las Vegas area. 77-78. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 106 Siegel. 153 Sparks. hiking. 66. 94 special events. 26-27. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 89-91 skydiving. restaurants. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 92-93. 85. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 52 pupfish. fishing. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 54. 186-187. Pony Express territory. Pioneer territory. 180. fishing. 197-199. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. touring. 74 races. 88. Las Vegas territory. fishing. 78. hiking. see events price codes. 54. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 90 sport climbing. camping. 179. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. biking. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 53-54. 59-61. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 12. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 84-85 swimming. 112. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. fishing. skiing. fishing. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. hiking. 91. see mines and mining skiing. 134. 93-94. 78. 190. 13 Price Lakes. 76. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. accommodations. 144. 123-125. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 49-50. 48-49 snowboarding. 138 rock climbing. 200 temperature chart. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 87.Index Pioche: accommodations. 165-201 plant life. 17. 146-147. 90 soaring. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. bike. 176 rodeos. 180 Pioneer territory. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 167. 154. snow sports outfitters. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 198. restaurants. 76. camping. hiking. 82. see climbing springfish. 17. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 9 Sand Mountain. accommodations. auto. camping. see events Round House Art Gallery. 144. 197. transportation. outfitters.” 4 silver. camping. 145-146 prostitution. touring. 104. 160-163. 146. 65 Pony Express territory. 144. touring. 169 Pyramid Lake. 181. touring. 109 Shoshone people. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 79. 163-164. biking. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 187. 96-97. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 98. horse. RenoTahoe area. 88 Star Peak: hiking. special events. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Reno-Tahoe area. 143 Rachel. 115.
camping. 31. 62. 144. 77-78. 152-155. 159-160. 153-154. 176 wineries. 176. touring. 159. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 167. Earth Connections. 174. 187. 199. touring. 109 trees. 151 Wovoka. 117 Toquima Cave. events. 117. 200-201. camping. 157. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 127. 68. 179. 80.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 110. 62. camping. Pioneer territory. 143. hiking. 149. 135-137. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. touring. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 67. special events. 178. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 155. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 139-140 Treasure City. outfitters. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 176 Yerington: accommodations. Amtrak. 104. Hemenway Park. 191-192. Walker Lake. 168-169. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. outfitters. 25 Topaz Lake. 34-35. restaurants. Ruby Marsh. 185. 97. 41. 150. climbing and hiking. 44-48. buses. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 147-148. hiking outfitters. 102. 196. 163-164. 119-120. 192. 33. 112. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 134 Twain. camping. camping. 174 walking. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. hiking. 29-30. 139. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 127. 31. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. Table Mountain Wilderness. touring. 150. Las Vegas territory. High Rock Canyon. 182-183. Lake Mead. 172. water sports. Goshute Mountains. 61. 80-81. Mark. 55. fishing. touring. Pony Express territory. Pioneer territory. 177. wildlife and bird watching. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. see transportation transportation: airports. fishing. outfitters. hiking. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 32. 83. restaurants. 143. 145-146. 20. 146. 155. 71-74 Virgin River. 75. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. events. 155 . touring. 29. 86 Wells: accommodations. 38. rental cars. horseback riding. 193. 62. camping. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 151 Wilson Canyon. 183-184. Wilson Canyon. 164. 160-161. 76. Reno-Tahoe territory. 190-193. 95. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. Jack’s Valley Road. 39 vineyards. Winnemucca. Santa Rosa Mountains. Echo Canyon State Park. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Arc Dome Wilderness. 71. 106 trains. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 79-80. 163. Cleve Creek Campground. 162. 156-157. 26-27. restaurants. 73. restaurants. 188-189. 66. 85. 144. 89. 111. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. restaurants. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 191 UFOs. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 193 Walker Lake. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. events. 45. 35. 142 Wendover: accommodations. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Ruby Mountains. 30-31. 98. see plant life tufas. hiking outfitters. 168 zoos. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument.
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