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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
Florida. you’ll know better. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. however. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. bison. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. pausing on . Among the 50 states. In fact. that’s good news. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. For anyone who loves the outdoors. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. About 27 million of them. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. you can have the whole wild. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. horses. which covers most of Nevada. These mammoths.500 and 10. In fact. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. giant sloths. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do.” and for good reason. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. half-pound hot dogs. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. According to author John Hart. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. as the top tourism destination in the US.
wetlands and springs. including southern Nevada. points. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. Many prime archeological sites. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. . The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. fish hooks. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. By about 500 AD. In the south. The Northern Paiutes. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. His party wintered in California. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. In 1776. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. Jedediah Smith.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. followed in Garces’ footsteps. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. the first European entered Nevada. shells. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. In the 12th century. hand tools. Exactly 50 years later. established trade routes. however. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo.
continued to oversee Nevada. swelling the population well into five figures. Introduction . launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. DC. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. John C. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. the Mormons were the first white residents. camping at Las Vegas. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. which helped open the gateway to the West. with Brigham Young as governor. encountering Pyramid Lake. and headed over the Sierras. but abandoned it two years later. was dispatched to map the area. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. In 1859. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. In 1845.History n 3 In the north. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. In 1830. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. Fremont. dominated by the church. By 1857. In 1843 and ’44. covering most of Utah and Nevada. then returned east along the route the next year. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. Nevada became a state on Halloween. but the Utah Territory government. The Comstock Lode. and. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. 1864. In 1849. In 1833. as it came to be called. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. who would later become a war hero. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. the church established the State of Deseret. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. Eight years later the first wagon train. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River.
the Big Bonanza. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. but was ambushed. Siegel’s vision. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. Warriors under Numaga. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. In the teens and ’20s. was of a classy. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. In 1874. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. killed two-thirds of them. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. son of Winnemucca. Ironically.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. Winnemucca. began making money and the boom was on. particularly in southern Nevada. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. signed a treaty with the federal government. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. bringing town sites. the mother of all lodes. commerce and industry. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. then underground tests for 30 more. however. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. chief of the Northern Paiutes. Streets were laid out. Meanwhile. Reno and the surrounding areas.000 people in 1960. Then in 1966. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. violence escalated. was struck in Virginia City. then picked up again in the early 1900s. upscale Vegas. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. Carson City. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. the Flamingo soon reopened. Howard Hughes sud- . In 1855. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. In 1860. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. In 1873. opened in 1950. later known as the Nevada Test Site. the first true hotel-casino. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65.
Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. however. Winnemucca. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. To many. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. This time. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. By 1970. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. today there are master-planned communities. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. places like Elko. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. are reaping the windfall. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. trappers. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. find enough water. and Americans have become moths to the flame.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. Mom and their 2. a land dominated by a mobile population. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. But the explosion has not been without fallout. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. moving to the region in record numbers. . farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. Fallon and Mesquite. How much is too much.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. The entire West will be watching what transpires. miners. DC.
000 feet to nearly 12. In the north. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. across a sagebrush-covered basin. with nine ranges topping 11. Fremont in 1844. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. down another range. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. then disappear into their respective “sinks. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. then up another range. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. and so on. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. Wheeler Peak. The roof of Nevada is 13. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state.839foot Matterhorn. Near Las Vegas.000 feet. hills and uplands. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. Here. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. Get the idea? After all.000 feet in the space of a few miles.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. lakes. The Colorado River . the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. Named by explorer John C. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. Nevada even has its own 10. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. down a range. the Carson and the Humboldt. The notion of Nevada as a flat. towers over Great Basin National Park. Depending on who’s counting. On the other side of the state.063 feet. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. 13. reservoirs and other watery bodies. dry.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. In fact. gurgle through the northern part of the state. Yes.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run.
In 1989. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. only 65. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. For the greens. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. it’s an uphill climb all the way. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. establishing 77. are part of the vast Mojave Desert.500 square miles of western Nevada. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. most notably Lake Tahoe. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. natural sources of running water. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. are the only reliable. In the 1970s. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada.000 acres. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky.000 years ago covered 8. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964.000-acre Great Basin National Park.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. in the remote north near Jarbidge. a great inland sea that 50. the southeastern corner of Nevada. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. Lower and drier. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. the largest alpine lake in North America.
Still. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations.000 and 8. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. At elevations above 6. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions.000 feet. Apart from aspens. horsebrush and shadescale. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. 14 national recreation areas. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. the soil supports . the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. The squat Utah juniper.000 feet above sea level. Death Valley. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). with its tiny. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. greasewood. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). is generally found throughout the state between 5. The recommendations have been under review for years. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. such as rabbitbrush.
which is actually a type of yucca. up to 5.000 years. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. lodgepole pine. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. In the mountains. Above the desert floor. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. prickly pear. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. The king of Great Basin vegetation. The Joshua tree. The rare. Washoe pine. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. hedgehog and barrel. the official state grass. blooms by night here. or jimson weed. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. ponderosa pine. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. hallucinogenic sacred datura. Black bears.000 feet. which make up just 1% of the land. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. along with alder. bristlecone pine. however. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. At the other extreme. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. western white pine. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. willow and dogwood. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. the mountain lion. creosote bush has an oily. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years.
greater roadrunner. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. kangaroo rats. badger. burrowing owl and canyon wren. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. Ironically. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. also live in the Mojave. prairie falcon. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. skunk. Meanwhile. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. while mule deer are abundant. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. chuckwalla. coyote. seen on Nevada’s license plates. The desert bighorn sheep. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. brook. America’s two poisonous spiders. brown. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. golden and Dolly Varden . bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. beaver. Snakes include several types of rattlers. pika. redtailed hawk. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. In the air over the desert. fox. Blacktail jackrabbits. Trout are the favorite of anglers. rainbow. help comes from hunters. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. weasel. Gambel’s quail. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. with Lahontan cutthroat. the black widow and brown recluse.
Cowboy Country. on water. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. culture and most attractive features. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. on snow and in the air. broken down by specific locales. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. such as visitors bureaus. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. This section also includes sources for expert information. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. A section on Touring follows. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. on land. Along with detailed information on where to go. covering its history. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. like almost every other Nevada visitor. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. Reno-Tahoe Territory. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory.
flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . $50 to $100 $$$ . . . . . .12 n Introduction ing chart. . so use these symbols only as a general reference. The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . . . Hiking. . . . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. Backpacking. fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . . . . . . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . . . Finally. Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. Trails may be gone. Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . . . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . Up to $50 per day $$ . . forethought and patience. . . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . . . . . . . . . $100 to $175 $$$$ .
Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada.14 (and sometimes beyond). The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. using the hands.0 to . the lower numbers (. occasionally using hands Class 4 . For Class 5 routes. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be. . The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 .6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move.Adventures n 13 Finally.Climbing.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . Class 2 . the most popular among serious rock climbers. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . so help is usually a long way away.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 . Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one. As this guide goes to press.Boulder hopping. Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency.0 to . it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. known as the Yosemite Decimal System. ranging from .Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb.Easy hiking.
then amended by subsequent climbers. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. If the plan changes. Always take fresh water with you. climbing partners. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. Beyond that. Assistance can take hours or days. As with all outdoor activities. legend. clothing. climbers enter the realm of myth. use common sense before you get into trouble. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Give them descriptions of yourself. Begin hiking early in the day. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. Pack spare everything – food. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. taking into account personal experience. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. until all holds disappear at . File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it.10. n n n n n . Don’t travel alone. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. Be aware of conditions. By their nature.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. In the arid country of Nevada. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. not hard-and-fast rules. Storms are more common in the afternoon. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. dehydration and lightning.
. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. but a powerful. jack. water and fluids. four-wheel-drive vehicle. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. Arizona. tools. high-clearance job. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. spare belts. extra gas. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. preferably one with a large gas tank. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. Not one of those trendy.
but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. however. left out of popular literature. The rest of Nevada. Phoenix. when you left and where you are headed. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. n If you have water. minimize talking and eating. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. Mountain biking in Nevada. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. PO Box 39340. in wilderness areas). leave a note telling searchers who you are. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. stay put. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. drink it as needed. . AZ. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. is more popular than ever. 85096. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. of course. Do not ration water. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. stay on it. n If water is in limited supply. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. contact DARES. n If you find a traveled road. For more information on desert survival.
there are tourists. Fishing.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. And where there are tourists. Many streams. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . lakes and reservoirs. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. At these higher elevations. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Skydiving. Soaring Where there is Vegas. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. and gigantic Lake Mead. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. n In The Air Scenic Flights. there are all types of sky-high adventures. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Meanwhile. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. but take extra care. Ballooning. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. the gem of the Sierras. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations.
hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. For those who like to watch. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. get out of lowlying areas. on the Colorado River. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. temperatures above 110° are common. Laughlin. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. In the Great Basin. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. Flashfloods are the predictable result. although they can occur at any time of year. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. Leave the high altitudes as well. Summer and early fall can be blistering. . lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. If thunderstorms threaten. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. These storms are known to appear with little warning. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. but despite the obvious danger. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. throwing rain.
windy.travelnevada. Carson City. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. NV 89311. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s.com. Reno. Carson City. % 702234-7331. % 702-688-1500. Nevada Division of State Parks. NV 89712.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. too. NV 89710. % 801-625-5182. Bureau of Land Management. NV 89502. Reno. see the listings that accompany each chapter. Nevada Division of Wildlife. % 702-785-6500. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. Nevada Department of Transportation. % 702-687-4219. UT. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. 84401. 1300 South Curry Street. In the north. 324 25th Street. In the mountains. Carson City. Nevada Commission on Tourism. NV 89520. US Forest Service. NV 89703. 1263 South Stewart Street. rainy and occasionally snowy. % 702-687-4384. Ogden. For information on specific locales. Intermountain Region. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. Capitol Complex. Baker. In southern Nevada. www. Great Basin National Park. 1100 Valley Road. % 800-NEVADA-8. basin winters can be chilly. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. 850 Harvard Way. .
try hiking to an 11. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city.000-foot peak. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. cheap food. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. lounge shows – and recently. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. in plain view of the casinos. both prehistoric and otherwise. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. Inside the city limits. closer.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead.000-year-old petroglyphs. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. . the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. faculty and invited artists. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. For more information on the Nevada Symphony.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. Dedicated to Mr. 1 PM to 5 PM. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. % 702-363-1921. Just off the glittering Strip.95 for adults.50 for seniors. % 702-895-3011. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. Admission is $4. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. Yes.95 for seniors and students. features work by students. % 702-895-3893. The tax-deductible admission is $6. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. actual cosmopolitan. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. % 702-798-5595. call % 702-895-3801. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Southeast of the Strip. but no less extravagant. % 702-895-3381. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. 8 AM to 5 PM. Seasonal streams. 10 AM to 5 PM. 9 AM to 9 PM. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. Sunday. Ham Concert Hall. Showmanship. is the Liberace Museum. $4. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. giant. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges.95 for adults. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. $3. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The Barrick Museum of Natural History.
saloon. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . % 702-875-4191. The restaurant and bar are open daily. 5 PM in the winter. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. later during summer months. 8 AM to 11 PM. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. The park is open daily. complete with mock gunfights and hangings.) The best time to take the 13-mile. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. Admission is $4.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. trail rides and a “real” Western town. petting zoo. % 702-486-5413. Charleston. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. 8 AM to sunset. Back on US 95. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. wife of a German munitions tycoon. The park is open daily. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. With structures dating back to 1864. The admission is $5 per vehicle. under Adventures on Foot. one-way loop drive is early morning. the road to Mt. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. 7 AM to dusk. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. % 702-875-4141. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. (See below. have been unearthed here. The park is open daily. 8 AM to 5 PM. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. Today there is a restaurant. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days).
backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. % 702-872-7098. and its 1. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. (See below. Charleston Hotel. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby.000 vertical feet of runs. Nevada’s state animal. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. In the winter. Charleston Lodge. At the northern edge of the reservation. completing the Mt. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. under Camping. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. see below under On Snow. % 702385-2SKI. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. % 702-872-5408. (See below. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95.) Pitch a tent. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. the Mt.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt.) After the hike. (See below. (See below. Bighorn sheep. elevation 11. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. % 702-872-5500. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. under On Foot.918 feet. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains.) . under Adventures and Camping. desolate valley. % 702-646-3401. Charleston Loop. A right turn leads to Las Vegas.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. under On Wheels. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. 17-mile. The 1. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning.
Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines.
% 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-654-7037 National.
but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. Admission is $1. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. Gray Line Tours. Call % 800USA-RAIL. Did it work? Judge for yourself. stopping downtown. The museum is open daily. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. % 702-455-7955. NV 89109. % 702-735-1616. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. . NV 89109. 1830 South Boulder Highway. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City.50 for adults. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. % 800-332-5333. On the north side of Boulder City.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. 3150 Paradise Road. $1 for seniors and children under 16. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. % 702-294-1888.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. 444 Hotel Plaza. 711 East Desert Inn Road. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines.
Children under 10 are free. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. % 702-565-8591. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. The cost is $5 for adults. 89105. % 702-293-2034. All of 726 feet high. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. % 702-293-8907. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. swimming. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. and 45 feet thick at the top. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. $2. 660 thick at the base. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. for information on camping.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. 100 Nevada Highway. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. Phoenix and Los Angeles. fishing. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. Hoover also created Lake Mead. (See On Water below. 89005. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. 500 South Boulder Highway.) Be sure to heed the . Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. head back toward Boulder City. Hoover Dam took 5. Las Vegans. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. boating and diving.
it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. a public swimming and boating area. Go straight to reach Henderson. From the visitor center.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. nearly five miles off the highway. . go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. Back on Nevada 167. explain the geology and forces of erosion. thank you. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. Just beyond the bay. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). which rests on the Virgin River. Beyond here. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. The displays in the visitor center. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. % 702-293-6180. % 702-397-2088. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip.
North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. Nevada’s record-high temperature. % 520-754-3272.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. Saturday. relives those days. in Bullhead City. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. 9 AM to 5 PM. The museum is open Monday through Friday. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. (For details on all three. on Lake Mojave.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. Arizona. Named for a brand of matches. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. constructed his Riverside Casino. % 702-297-1464. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. % 800-46-4584 . 9 AM to 1 PM. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon.000 visitors a month. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. East of Searchlight 14 miles. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. campground and fishing and swimming spots. a campground and marina. % 520-754-3399. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. % 520-754-3628. 125°. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. 355 Highway 95. under Adventures. bar and bait shop. % 702-297-1682. see below. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. % 520-754-4606. with motel. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. Admission is a $1 donation. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. South of here is camping. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. the town was a gold. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass.
May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 702-876-3380. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. as many as 6. % 310-448-1822. % 800-736-6247 United Express. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. Special Events February In February. % 800-227-5254. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. May is the busiest month. 1555 South Casino Drive. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. In Laughlin. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. host- .000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. % 800-227-5245. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. % 702-798-6405. % 800-331-1212 Budget. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town.
August In August. to town. % 702-870-1221. to the waters of Lake Mead. . and the National Finals Rodeo. % 702-898-6565. % 702-2939256. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. % 702-4541212. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. October Art in the Park. % 702-293-2034. a confluence of Southern Paiute. % 800-227-5245. % 702-457-5775. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. % 702-8953900. % 702-293-1611. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. Navaho and Mojave peoples. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. floats into Laughlin. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. to the campus of UNLV. % 702-293-4857. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. Later in the month. % 702-386-3926. Another balloon festival. takes place in Vegas. a three-day balloon rally. blows in. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. the International Black Heritage Festival. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. % 702-457-2797. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. % 702434-0848.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. the Las Vegas Classic. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. to downtown. take place in Boulder City. % 800-637-1006. % 702-631-7000. the Parade of Lights. also takes place in October. % 702-452-8066. % 702687-5777.
To the west. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. The Choad Warrior (5.8).11). in fact.9).7) crag and mixed climbing walls. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. Chicken Eruptus (5. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. Crimson Chrysalis (5. The area gets only four inches of rain a year. Stratocaster (5. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. while nearby Cloud Tower (5.11b). Other routes in- .11). Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley.11d) offers more advanced routes. especially in winter months. At nearby Willow Springs. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. so chalk often stays put for months. Graveyard Waltz (5. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. Sheep Trail (5. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. is to mountain bikers. so take extra precautions when adventuring here.12a).200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels.11+). At the end of a 90-minute approach. Utah. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. Red Rock attracts free climbers. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5.11).9) has 1.
which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. . At the aforementioned fork. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. See Outfitters. Rainbow Buttress (5.000 feet. to savor the 300-mile views.6). the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail.12). elevation 11. published by the American Alpine Club. The 3. The trail switchbacks time and again. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. Chockstone Press. ending at a small dam and the spring. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. Volume 1 by John Harlin III.918 feet. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow.000 feet in four miles. & For more information.000 feet. 17 miles round-trip. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. About seven miles from the visitor center. Following the fork. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. gaining 3.10 or 5. toward a ridge at 11. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. consult the Bible of local climbers. page 41.8) and Eagle Dance (5. an easy six-mile round-trip.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. The South Loop Trail. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road.
while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. thunderstorms and snow.000 feet to a saddle. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. At lower elevations. . contact the US Forest Service. Never take these altitudes lightly. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. For trail information and weather and safety updates. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. gaining 1.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. To the northwest. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. covering two miles and gaining 1. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. Mountain T Ranch. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. Beginning on a dirt road. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City.000 feet into the northeastern sky. the trail climbs 1. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes.000 feet above the desert.4 miles.
% 702-434-3388. Falcon Press Publishing.2 miles. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. Bruce Grubbs. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. and park at the end of the road. Rocky Trails. climb a gully to reach a ridge. Stay below the northern peaks. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. 89180.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. go 6.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. PO Box 1. PO Box 80875. HCR 33. Climb northward up the slope. % 702-223-2176. outlines the easiest route. 89124. turn right. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Las Vegas 89117. % 702-596-2953. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. Sports & Adventure Tours. heading for the northernmost outcropping. then go northwest to another plateau. . Las Vegas. % 888-86ROCKY. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Suite 4. 89137. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. % 702-364-8687. Just south of this outcrop. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. % 702-254-5604. PO Box 371324. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. which is marked by a post. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. Las Vegas. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. ascending northwest. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard.
% 702387-2457. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. Armed . % 702-798-6565. At mile post 17. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. 89132. % 702362-7177. Wagons West. % 702-254-1143. % 702-2567433. PO Box 19210. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard.6 mile to a dirt road. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. Hahn’s World of Surplus. Las Vegas. Desert Rock Sports. % 702-458-8870. % 702-383-0838. Cowboy Trail Rides. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . % 702-875-1978. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. however. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. Desert Outfitting. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. 4065 East Patrick Lane. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. 617 Hoover Avenue. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. Peak Sports. % 702-252-7114. % 702-649-6819. Silver State Old West Tours. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. can arrange a covered wagon trip.
turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. go to the next intersection. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. before heading out. 4765 Vegas Drive. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. NV 89126. A double track soon appears on the right. a six-mile loop. and pump uphill. . Go left here. scanning for a cairn on the left. contact the Bureau of Land Management. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. PO Box 26589. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. Turn right. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. zoom downhill to the fork. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. Head downhill. Turn right. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. turn right. Las Vegas. For a more challenging excursion. For a tamer road trip. heading uphill. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. turn left to another intersection and turn right. make a quick right and head downhill. At the road. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. % 702-647-5000. After beginning another climb. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. Take this until you reach a double track. flying downhill and then up to another road. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). Ride until you see a cairn on the left.
Escape the City Streets. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. At about the 10-mile mark. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. 7934 Cadenza Lane. % 702-8978287. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. Turn left to return to US 15. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. . 16 Cottonwood Drive. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. R&R Cycling. Ski Chalet. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. % 702-642-2453. the byway forks. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. % 702-252-8077. % 702-876-8687. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-596-2953. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. Las Vegas Bikes USA. % 702-646-3401. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. Downhill Bicycle Tours.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. % 702-451-9586. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard.
tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. % 702-796-9355. . the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. % 702-646-8800. of all places. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. For details. is on the premises. 8 AM to 11 AM. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. 4765 West Vegas Drive. Las Vegas. % 702-380-6969. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. maps and more information on backcountry byways. crystal-clear hotel pool. % 702-454-5555. Old West Territory Tours. 713 East Ogden Street. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. 89101. It begins. % 888-REELRIO. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. Suite B. 2810 South Highland Drive. an avid angler for more than 50 years. Rebel Adventure Tours. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. 3700 Flamingo Road.
meals and overnight lodging for $449. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. Off Nevada 167. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. rents houseboats. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. and two. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area.to three-days notice is required. offering professional advice. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). % 800-34-SCUBA. Thomas. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. jet skiing. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. about three miles across at its widest point. (See below. . % 800-2555561. powerboats and cruisers. under Boating Outfitters. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). peregrine falcons and even flamingos.500-acre ranch in Utah. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Boulder Beach. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. For details. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. largemouth bass and trout. Forever Resorts. instruction and gear. flows into Lake Mead. The expert staff is available seven days a week.) Swimming. water skiing. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers.
% 702-293-6180. Return transportation is provided by bus. % 702-754-3245. is the local fishing and boating hub. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. 322 Lake Shore Road. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. Near Laughlin. Las Vegas. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. PO Box 100. Lake Mead Cruises. 89124. The cost is about $65 per person. 89102. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702-565-8958. PO Box 61235. 89006. offers trips from January through November. Lake Mojave Farther south. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. Calville Bay Resort. 89006. PO Box 62465. . Lake Mead Resort & Marina. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. % 702-2931190. Las Vegas. % 800-696-RAFT.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. HCR 30. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. particularly near cliffs. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. % 702-252-7114. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach.
5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702-437-9283. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. % 702-433-3263. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. PO Box 29279. Clearwater Flyfishing. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. PO Box 29279. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. Fiesta Queen Cruises. % 702-3944000. 4290 Boulder Highway. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. Laughlin River Tours. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. % 702-564-5660. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. 89040. . Laughlin. 520-758-6242. % 702-459-2080. % 702-452-8299. Bullhead City. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702565-0696. Sunset Bait & Tackle. 89029. 1450 Newberry Drive. Overton. % 702-5659111. % 702-388-1022. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. 89028. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. AZ. % 702297-1464. Tom’s Water Skiing. Overton. % 800-228-9825. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. 89040. Overton Beach Marina.
% 702-564-1558. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. 1500 Palomino Drive. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. Utah. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. % 702-871-1399.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. 161 East Rancho Drive. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. citing growing noise problems. HB Fishing Guide Service. A jump is $59. . noon to 9 PM. complete with guided ground tours and meals. % 702-451-4004. 3800. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. Hackett Bungy. Even more memorable. % 702-565-8396. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic.J. Saturday until midnight. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. With commercial balloon tours. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. ext. The company claims more than 500. Jim Goff. 68 Mallory Road. Henderson Bill Spellman. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. 810 Circus Circus Drive.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. % 702-434-0848. however. Arizona and Zion. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. Karen Jones. % 702-385-4321. % 702-5657583.
#115-200. 241 East Reno Avenue. % 702-877-1010. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. % 800-446-4584. Las Vegas. Jean Airport. NV 89019. Las Vegas. Scenic Airlines. Set at a base elevation of 8. % 800-216-8330. 806 Buchanan Street. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. % 800-359-8727.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. Sundance Helicopters. PO Box 19629. Eagle Canyon Airlines. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . Las Vegas Airlines. % 702-221-9199. % 800-255-7474. An all-day lift ticket runs $27.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. % 800-634-6377. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. Web site www. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. 806 Buchanan Street. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. Boulder City. Air Vegas Airlines. Heli USA. King Airelines.ultimateballoonadven.com. % 702-385-2SKI. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. % 702-293-1860. 3275 Rosanna Street. % 800-8-SKYDIV. % 702-736-0013. 89005. % 800-535-4448. % 800-634-6851. 89109. Skydive Las Vegas. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. NV 89117. 200 Convention Center Drive. Jean. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. 2705 Airport Drive. D&R Balloons. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists.
But somehow. % 702-646-0008. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and.000 techies to Sin City. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. % 702-385-5200.000 visitors. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. % 800-272-7426. if possible. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. over 100. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. $-$$. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. HO TE L Many hotels. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. $-$$$. After all. are booked solid on weekends. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. luring 200. % 702-385-1664. For more serious snow. 600 East Fremont Street. Above all.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. 2395 North Rancho Road. All they do is take up space. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. 18 East Fremont Street. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. The place was once part-owned by in- . the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. it seems. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15.000-room MGM Grand. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. even behemoths like the 5.
where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. Caesars Palace. $$-$$$. 3000 Paradise Road. $$-$$$$. $$$-$$$$. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. is a crowd-pleaser. The Golden Nugget.037 rooms. 202 East Fremont Street. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. across from the Fashion Show Mall. The Four Queens. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. If staring at wealth is your thing. % 702-732-5111. The faux volcano. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. % 702-791-7171. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. Across the street is the green giant. Down the street. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. 1 Main Street. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. has 1. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. $$-$$$$. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. % 702-386-2110. $$-$$$$. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. and New York. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. New York is out there. the young upstarts. % 702-740-NYNY. Monte Carlo. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $-$$. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. The movie Rainman was shot here. % 702-731-7110. % 702-3821600. $$$$$. however. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . % 702-740-NYNY. % 702-385-4011. 129 East Fremont Street. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. The Mirage. $$-$$$$. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. $-$$. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. South of here. Next door is the Island’s big sister. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. Even by Vegas standards. % 702-385-7111. who built the first casino resort. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. New York. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. New York. way out there. dominate the Strip. the MGM Grand. 128 East Fremont Street. the Flamingo. % 702-894-7111. $$-$$$$. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South.
% 702-875-4400. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. positively sedate with its 5. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. while Bellagio will boast 3. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. Charleston Resort. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. which eliminates Reno.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. % 702-735-1616. $$-$$$$. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. $-$$$. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. . TIP Laughlin For the most part. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. % 702-872-5408. Charleston Hotel. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. In the Spring Mountains. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. contrary to popular belief. % 702-872-5500. has 2.000 visitors a month and climbing. set at 7.000. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. $$-$$$$. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. three Motel 6s. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. On the outskirts of Vegas. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. $-$$.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. % 702-262-4555. At this book goes to press. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Bonnie Springs Motel. % 800-634-3988.500 rooms. but don’t count on that for long. the Mt. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. too. contact the Chamber of Commerce.
% 702-891-7337. % 702-298-5111. sports a railroad theme. Nearby. 3700 West Flamingo Road. % 702-385-4011. $-$$$. both at the MGM Grand. 1650 Casino Drive. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. $-$$. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. % 702-298-2453. 2900 South Casino Drive. 1900 South Casino Drive. An excellent buffet. the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-891-7374. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. in the Las Vegas Hilton. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. To really dine UPtown.500 rooms. Café Michelle. classy Hugo’s Cellar. Eurasian mélange. Hamada. % 702-298-4000. % 702-733-3111. offers 2. serves upscale Italian fare.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. $-$$. 1350 East Flamingo Road. % 702-3807711. $$$$. The Ramada Express. At the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-298-7111. 401 South 6th Street. 2300 South Casino Drive. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . The Edgewater. % 702-732-5111. 2100 South Casino Drive. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. opened in 1990. $-$$$. however. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. % 702-252-7777. % 702-385-5016. and Gatsby’s. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere.000 rooms. % 702735-8686. Downtown at the Four Queens. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. After a few meals at most of these troughs. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. contact the Chamber of Commerce. On the Strip. % 702-298-4600. Andiamo. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. Andre’s. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. and Harrah’s. while the Colorado Belle. $-$$$. 2121 South Casino Drive. Emeril’s. has 1. 202 Fremont Street. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. % 702-298-2214. % 702-298-2535. % 702-298-4200. and very expensive. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. 2000 South Casino Drive. while the Golden Nugget. Off the main drags. $-$$.
4545 West Sahara Avenue. Charleston. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-384-4470. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. All five campgrounds have piped water. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. in the shadow of Mt. % 702-693-5000. % 702-363-1921. while moderately pricey. so be prepared for extreme weather. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground.000 and 8. . % 702-794-0700. The elevation here ranges between 7. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. For satisfying American favorites. % 702-298-2242. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. seven days a week. 308 West Sahara Avenue. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. is the most popular Chinese place in town. % 702-383-0007. % 702-873-5222. % 702733-8899. is the oldest restaurant in the city. serves hip. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. 3900 Paradise Road. serves fine steaks and seafood. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. % 702-382-1644. For a Latin taste. having opened in 1932. although the Lodge. call % 702-873-8800. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel.400 feet. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. as the name implies. Phillip’s Supper House. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. Kyle Canyon. which. Suite Z. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. 2504 East Fremont. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. Chicken is the house specialty. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. Fong’s. The Green Shack. For information. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. Chin’s. Near the end of Nevada 157. % 702-2984600. 4455 Paradise Road. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day.
the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. Across the river from the Strip. Las Vegas Territory . Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. there’s Boulder Beach. In Valley of Fire State Park. north of town on Lake Mojave. call % 702-646-3401. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. Calville Bay has 80 sites. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. For information. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. Moving north from Boulder City. % 520-7544606. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. % 520-754-3272. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. On the north shore. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. To the east of Vegas. % 702-397-2088. For information on all five locations. On the Virgin River to the north.
which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. With a surface elevation of more than 7. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. the largest alpine lake in North America. the city of Reno is the . crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years.000 feet. The Truckee River. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. At the heart of this region. just east of the California-Nevada border. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. Reno. Las Vegas. In the winter. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. Of course. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. Rose resorts. Heavenly and Mt. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. and for good reason. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state.
on the shores of Washoe Lake. 8. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. North of Pyramid Lake. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. Farther south. Just south of Carson City. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. About 30 miles north of Reno. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. meanwhile. an ancient. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. Washoe Lake State Park. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. Farther east of Carson City. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. . The Carson River. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. Fort Churchill. Today this mirage-come-true. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. where everyone expects Ben. are walks back in time. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. which meanders – sometimes wet. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. Pyramid Lake. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. The place dates back to 1851.
faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. for a schedule. % 800-FOR-RENO. No. In 1852.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. From here. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. H. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. or at least slow. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City.W. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. and in 1859 C. there isn’t a glass pyramid. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. From Reno. which hosts special events in warmer months. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe.H. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. From Carson City. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. Like Vegas. In 1863. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. the city continues to grow rapidly. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. North Virginia Street.
but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. this is it. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. . the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. From a historical point of view.
April through October. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. The staff welcomes visitors daily. including black bears and kit foxes. To get there. boasts three treasures. On the suburban south side of Reno. May Museum and Arboretum. the campus of the University of Nevada. % 702-333-9300. but call first for hours. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. a nifty historical theme park. 1265 Deerlodge Road. houses a theater and telescope. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. 300 North Center Street. 10 South Lake Street. On the north side of the city. % 702784-4812. % 702-784-4528. When arms get tired. On the northern outskirts of the city. % 702-969-3111. The Nevada Historical Society. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. % 702-688-1190. % 702-334-2600.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. (See below under On Foot. Great Basin Adventure. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. 1502 North Washington Street. houses one of the world’s best collections. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. the National Automobile Museum. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. About 10 minutes north of the university. % 702-7855961. is a well-known. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. And the Keck Minerals Museum. has been at that location since 1946. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. Fleischmann Planetarium.) The Wilbur D. Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-788-3773. is also located here. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. Animal Ark Nature Center. turn right. 1650 North Virginia Street.
% 800-426-7000. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-325-8007. % 800-218-8777. Northwest Airlines. % 800-435-9792. Alaska Airlines. % 800-241-6522. Delta Connection-Sky West. Canadian Airlines. % 800-231-2222. % 800-367-2277.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-736-6247. TWA. Reno Air. Thrifty. % 800-800-4000. % 702-328-6400. National. Lloyd’s International. % 702-882-3375. Greyhound Lines. Hertz. TriStar Airlines. Dollar. % 800-331-1212. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. Airlines Air 21. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. No Stress Express. % 800-221-2000. United Airlines. K-T Services. % 800-527-0700. % 800-359-2472. Southwest Airlines. If you don’t have a car. America West Airlines. % 800-CAR-RENT. % 800-235-9292. Delta Air Lines. % 800-225-2525. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Enterprise. % 800-654-7037. % 800-453-9417. % 800-221-1212. Budget. . % 800-654-3131. Avis.
provides an interesting mix of adventures. rock. % 702-686-3030. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. restore forest and watersheds. 98 Colony Road.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. 405 Marsh Avenue. Reno. a marvelous intermingling of water. trees and sky. control erosion and acquire open land. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. in his journal Roughing It. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. Fortunately.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. respectively. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. % 800-FOR-RENO. is a study in contrast. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. All told. but the future of the Basin itself. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. 4590 South Virginia Street. the waters are now finding friends in high places. In 1861. At press time. In reality. NV 89502. year-round outdoor playgrounds. % 702-329-2936. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . NV 89505. local. Reno.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park.50 for kids.50 for adults. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. Three miles south of Incline Village. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. $5.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. After the buzz of the ranch. (See below. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. along the eastern shoreline. The park. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. is well-known to snorkelers. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. at 10. Admission is $8. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. % 702-849-2511. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. under On Foot. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. with its full slate of running water. The beaches are open daily.) Up the twisting NV 431. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. is a welcome respite. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. stands out amid the pines. % 702-831-0494. Viewed from the highway. The north end of the beach. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park.776 feet. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. called Diver’s Cove. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. restrooms and picnic areas. % 702-831-0691. open May through November. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. But in between them.
The day-use fee is $5.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. (See below. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. 96151. condos. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. Booming in the winter (see below. PO Box 16299. The price for such sloth is $10. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. % 702588-3000. The next stop is Zephyr Cove.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. Every summer. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. canoeing. South Lake Tahoe. % 702588-3508. PO Box 7139. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. Sailing. horseback riding. under Adventures and Accommodations. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. Stateline. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . For information. % 916-583-9048. under On Snow. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. At Tahoe Village. % 702-588-4591. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. % 800-AT-TAHOE. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. then into the broad Washoe Valley. This is the home port of the Dixie II. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. $6 per child.50 per adult. under On Snow).) For the unmechanized. CA. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. NV 89449. May through November. offices and shops. restaurants.250 feet in five minutes. also offers excursions. (See below. a nature trail circles the lake. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce.
under Adventures.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. US 395 slides southwest. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. During the wet season. (See below. and on weekends between May and October. % 702-687-4319. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. Bowers Mansion. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. was hit a year later in Virginia City. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. a hunt that lasted 20 years. 87 and 98). one mile south of Washoe City. boating. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Washoe Lake. site of Washoe Lake State Park. Bowers Mansion County Park. In November. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. the mansion and all its furnishings. 1851. camping and hiking (see below. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. The park’s centerpiece. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. About 15 miles south of Reno. the boom rolled in at full throttle. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. the world’s largest silver strike. % 702-849-0201. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. windsurfing. Camping.” On Halloween in 1864. eventually lost their silver fortune. pages 83. When the Comstock Lode. About 30 miles south of Reno. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. Washoe Lake covers about 3.000 acres. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. The original owners. off NV 429.
Just east of the Capitol. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. Open Monday through Friday. % 702-884-3450. excepting state holidays. which was opened in 1886. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. . the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. 600 North Carson Street. It’s so open. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. 101 North Carson Street. % 702-687-4810. Admission is $3. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. yearround. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. the Capitol is open daily. Located in the Carson City Mint building. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. Headquartered in nearby Minden. exhibits of native fauna. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. 100 Stewart Street. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. % 702687-5030. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. The library contains the original state constitution. in fact. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. the Nevada State Library & Archives. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. The Capitol Building & Museum. Call for schedules and pick-up points.” In fact. Unlike most Western capitals. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. % 702-687-5160.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood.
became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. 502 North Division Street. Admission is $2. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-883-1976. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. Bliss Mansion. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. 2180 South Carson Street. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. was named for its original occupant. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. % 702-687-6953. That classic journal. The office is closed Sundays. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. The museum is filled with period furniture. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. % 702-887-2174. The St. 1207 North Carson Street. The staff can provide trail maps. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. The building now houses a live theater. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. On the suburban south side of Carson City. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. 448 West King Street. % 702-826-2766. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. the Carson City Brewing Company. % 702-882-1808. 5366 Snyder Avenue. 813 North Carson Street. Roughing It. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). % 702-884-2226. and Bender House (1874). Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. Admission is $4 for adults. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. Samuel.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. 1536 South Carson Street. train rides are extra.50. 302 South Carson Street. Two blocks north. The Orion Clemens House. Admission is $2. $2 for kids. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. books and permits for the surrounding area. Charles-Muller Hotel. The Stewart Indian Museum. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. The Roberts House Museum. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum.
% 702-687-7410. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. May through October. % 702-782-8155. opened in 1863. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. 1900 South Carson Street. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs.000 students had walked its halls. where he is buried. weight room and tennis courts year-round. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. As of presstime. California. . The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. the first permanent white settlement in the state. first opened to tourists in 1862. Carson City. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. Walley’s. saunas. 2001 Foothill Road. The museum is open daily. Genoa Bar. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. Before the school closed in 1980. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. % 702-782-4325. The place saw Nevada’s first house. at the foot of the Carson Range. 3. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. to Genoa. May through October. NV 89701. lies Genoa. now long gone. Across the street. Up the street. Guests can enjoy the water. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. The roots go back to 1851. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. Daily admission is $12. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau.
000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. Gardnerville in 1879. Finally. including Western art and portraiture. 1440 Highway 395. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. % 702-266-3343. Beyond NV 341. where it intersects with NV 341. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. valleys. boxing memorabilia. the highway hits Topaz Lake. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341.200acre beauty set at 5. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. about eight miles south of Carson City. their sweat. Virginia City. Just down US 395. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. Housed in the 1915 high school building. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. About three miles south of Gardnerville. Leaving Carson City. % 702-782-2555. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. The otherwise barren hills. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. resting precariously . Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. which climbs up a narrow. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. In Gardnerville. Their riches. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. % 702-782-3133. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. circus items. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. Minden was founded in 1904. a 1. 1477 Highway 395. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. of all places. and their spirit built the Silver State.
Today. Admission is $3. and within four years. Up C Street. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. The Comstock Lode had been struck. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. the Fourth Ward School on C Street.000 lived in Virginia City.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. % 702847-0975. underground mine tours. leave regularly. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. Here. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. The building is open daily. The Marshall Mint Museum. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. May through October. % 702-847-0777.000 a ton in silver. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. Not recommended for claustrophobes. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. Admission prices range from donations to $3. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. . At the south end of town. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. % 702-847-0757. more than 15. is a looming. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history.
a room in the basement of a saloon.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. Finally. The Mark Twain Museum. 3. % 702-847-0454. % 702-847-0525. Admission is $2. for a ride into yesterday. Mark Twain’s Memories. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. % 702-8470830. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. Admission is $2. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. has a more eclectic collection. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. % 702847-0275. including an old jukebox and player pianos. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. % 702-847-9394. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric.50. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. The Way It Was Museum. lives on in two buildings. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. The headstones and gravesites. June through October. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. % 702-8470333. After she was murdered in 1867. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. complete with ornate chandeliers. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. Its extravagant interior. windswept plateau. is open daily. Reno-Tahoe Territory . The memory of Samuel Clemens. % 702-847-0766. is definitely not for the puritan. Open daily.
then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. There is also a developed campground. % 702-673-1150. After about eight miles. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. Fort Churchill State Historic Park.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. % 702-577-2345. little more than a few walls remain. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. or mustangs. including Odeon Hall. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. % 702-847-0311. Past the intersection with NV 431. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. then exit at NV 445. The Byway’s terminus. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. After another 20 miles. wild horses. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . appears in Palomino Valley. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. number about 30. Today. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce.
store and museum. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. They will provide directions and hours of operation. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. continues to surround the lake. Another 25 miles north via paved. Tribe members administer recreation activities. A reservation was formalized in 1874. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. campground. Fremont. Just north of the marina. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. site of the ranger station. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. this is the place to do it – unless. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. the world’s largest playa. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-547-0187. since at least 9. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. % 702-476-1156. Spreading north and east. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. From Nixon. thus christening the 27-mile-long. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. boating and fishing are extra. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. Camping. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. Nearby. Today. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. The latter are fine specimens of tufas.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. If losing yourself is your goal. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. the road passes Wino. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. according to artifacts found in local caves. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. or dry lake bed. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. boat ramp.182 feet) to the west. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake.000 BC. of course. nine-mile-wide watering hole.
Help can be a long way away. caution and common sense are key to traveling. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. birds of prey. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. about one mile south of NV 140. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. . preparedness is imperative. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. even with one. songbirds. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. % 503-947-3315. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. tow chain. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. Again. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. TAKE CARE In this region. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. on 575. spare tire. and carry enough water.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. Besides antelope. A shovel.
heats up. In Gardnerville. % 702-588-6211. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. % 702-882-1802. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. with food. Night Curves. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. Reno also . The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. water. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. % 702-782-2444. Carson Valley Days. is held in Sparks. % 702-588-9658. Richest Rodeo in the West. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. In Virginia City. The Way It Was Rodeo. % 702-329-7469. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. % 702-882-1283. In Reno. % 702-782-2211. % 702-882-1808. % 702-329-3877.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. % 702-687-7410.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. % 702-829-1955. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. % 702-847-0311. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. In Carson City. a rolling custom car show. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. % 702-265-5281. % 702-353-2291. the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-847-7500. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. % 800-FOR-RENO. % 702-883-1352. is a rip-snortin’ affair. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. bills itself as the “Wildest. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights.
gather in Minden. On the Black Rock Desert. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. the notorious Burning Man Festival. . and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. % 702-329-1476. % 702-847-0311. is held in Reno. deconstructionist Woodstock. % 702-832-1606. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-972-6663. takes place in Carson City. In Incline Village. come to Virginia City along with a parade. % 702-786-5700. a sort of post-modern. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. % 702-885-6939. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. % 702-827-7603. % 702-688-5767. % 702-329-7469. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-882-1565. the Native American Snow Dance. % 702-782-9711. In the skies. attracts American Indians from many Western states. and the Nevada Day Parade. Street Vibrations. % 800-535-3045. The Great Italian Festival. % 702-826-1181. the Nevada State Fair. and the National Championship Air Races.
In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. including Asylum (5. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. including Jello Wars (5. Overhangs present experts with 5. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. so dress appropriately.11a and 5. Falcon Press Publishing. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. all 5. . crosses Jones Creek and turns right. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. There are 10 routes. At the five-mile mark. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. 1994. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. After crossing Galena Creek.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area.000 feet. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes.11c and heavier. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. then climbs to a saddle. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. however. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. There are more than 20 routes. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage.11d) and Slayer (5. whips around a peak. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border.11a). Farther south. with parking on the left just south of the vista point.14a). are more chilling than the mountain air.12a opportunities.
Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. NV 431. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. This hike is certainly strenuous. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. for children $5.260 feet. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. Since the slide. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. . But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. After another mile. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. The trail ends at a highway. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park.300 feet in just six miles. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. so call first. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. including great blue herons and birds of prey. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. climbing 3. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. % 702-847-WALK. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. as are group tours.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. Hours are seasonal. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. The charge for adults is $12. offers a beautiful willow. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. elevation 8. % 702-6881893. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate.
Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. For more information. To reach the trailhead. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. % 916-279-6101. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. OR 97441. great horned owls and other birds of prey. as are 7. contact the BLM. The trail. Stevens Camp. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. Yellow Hills East. For road conditions and closures. Mahogany Mountain. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. As this is being written. is a good overnight point. CA 94620. Madras. Oakland. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. For more information. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. From here. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. write them at PO Box 20991. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. . a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. For travel information.
490 Kietzke Lane. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. 1135 Terminal Way. jogs through alpine meadows.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. NV 89450. On the east side of the reservoir. The lakes. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. Sparks. % 702-851-1924. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. Bighorn Outfitting. but they might also offer their services to hikers. backpackers and photographers. NV 89511. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. % 702-626-6916. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. % 702-333-6795. % 702-832-5231. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. . to the soaring summit at 9. NV 89502. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. PO Box 6145. % 702-322-9559. 3335 Vista Boulevard. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. A steep. 20 Daylily Court.200 lung-burning feet. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. Nevada Guide Service. Denio Junction. % 702-623-1500. gaining 2. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. Look for the Knott Creek sign. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. terminus of the fairly flat. Patagonia Outlet. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. #111. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left.397 feet. Reno. Silver State Outfitters. Outdoor Adventures. % 702-746-6878. NV 89436. 8550 White Fir Street. Incline Village. Reno. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98.
and offers picnic rides. % 702588-5664. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. % 702-849-9651. also rents horses. Sporting Rage. 1201 Highway 395. 4339 South Carson Street. % 702-8252855. % 702884-3453. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. % 702-849-1020. % 702-323-5630. 4375 South Carson Street. Twin City Surplus. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702-8827779. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. Zephyr Cove Stables. call first for availability and directions. offers ranch day trips. After about three miles. % 702-3584824. contact Tin Cup Adventures. In the highlands near Mount Rose. Vogl Trek USA. Sierra Spirit Ranch. which parallels North Canyon Creek. Near Washoe Lake State Park. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. % 702-831-5465. % 702-885-7773. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. the trail makes a high-altitude. Sierra Mountaineer. 1941 North Carson Street. % 702-849-0570. 155 East Moana Lane. % 702782-7011.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. 1675 East 4th Street. In all four cases. Strictly Scuba & More. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart .Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports.
a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. to Vya. % 916-279-6101. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. north of Pyramid Lake. 84 miles back to Gerlach. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. % 702-831-0494. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. Put simply. . and they must yield the right-of-way to both. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. Continuing northwest on NV 447. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. For detailed maps. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. or ends. From here. The half-paved. depending on point of view. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. don’t screw it up. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. To complete the loop. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville.
89701. % 702883-3210. 89532. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. also known as NV 206. For more information. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 1993. % 702786-5111. 1987 North Carson Street. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. 3450 Lakeside Drive. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. % 702-825-8258. & According to Jeanne L. Bike Brothers. 89502. Bicycle Warehouse. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. % 702826-0800. . % 702827-3277. 4135 South Virginia Street. 1200 South Wells Avenue. winter and spring. call % 702-688-1500. 89502. Excell Skates. 89502. Reno Schwinn. 89509. south of Carson City. Falcon Press Publishing. 235 East Plumb Lane. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. % 702-8871333. 89502. Great Basin Bicycles. % 702-3226001. 500 North Carson Street. along with Canada geese in fall. % 702-747-1413. 89701. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. 1999 South Virginia Street. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year.
Spooner Lake. personal water craft and kayaks. via NV 88 and CA 89. PO Box 3007. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. rents powerboats. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. which can take up to seven hours. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. . Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. six miles south of Gardnerville. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. % 702-588-3369. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. On the Nevada side. Entrance fee is $3 per car. cutthroat and rainbows. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. kingfishers. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. Nevada. 89701. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. % 702782-0867. offers 1. canoes. red-tailed hawks. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. Contact the US Forest Service. The trip. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 89423. 89450. California. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. 625 Fairview Drive. coyotes. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. 1685 Highway 395 South. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. % 702-8825007. During spring and early summer. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. turkey vultures.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns.
Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. with campground and restrooms. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. % 702-688-1500. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. thanks to Sierra runoff. However. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. two to three miles up a steep trail. although . A better option might be Ophir Creek. For the stalwart anglers. Idlewilde Park. are regularly stocked with rainbows. For more adventurous angling. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. both on the eastern shore. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. % 702-6874319. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. Washoe Lake State Park. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. For moving-water anglers. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. The smaller.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. catfish and trout. water levels. and charges a launching fee. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. planting and licensing information. There are two boat ramps. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. For directions. but in wet years. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. only a mile west of downtown. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning.
brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. % 702-688-1500. Camping is primitive. a health advisory is still in effect. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. under Outfitters. Nevada Angler’s Guide. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. Come prepared. boasts a handful of isolated spots. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. however. For more information. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. the setting here is primative. More than 100 years later. The reservoir is located on private land. see below. . Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. Boats with outboards are permitted. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. while rainbow. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. In his book. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. There are two boat ramps on the lake. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. crappie and perch. Rainbow. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. used to separate gold and silver from ore. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end.
Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. PO Box 10225. PO Box 1909. % 702-588-4916. rentals and a shuttle bus. 294 East Moana Lane.440 vertical feet of runs. PO Box 815. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. % 702-358-6113. NV 89448. % 702-827-0600. % 916-541-5448. NV 89449. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. Reno Fly Shop. 96145.260 feet. % 916573-0753. PO Box 6506. Reno. % 702-322-9559. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. NV 89431. Mount Rose also offers lessons. Don’s Fishing Charters. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. With a base elevation of 8. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Reno. Stateline. Sparks. Tahoe City. NV 89502. Zephyr Cove. Tahoe Topliners. Snowboarders are welcome. % 916-546-4444. 89502. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. . the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. NV 89502. NV 89448. equally divided among novice. intermediate and advanced.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. 490 Kietzke Lane. The Gilly. 155 East Moana Lane. Zephyr Cove. % 702-825-2855. CA..
is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays.800) and the highest top elevation (10. which include a pass. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. 89451. a new gondola and the famous tram. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. lesson. NV. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. Lessons. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced.500 feet). day tours and amateur races. % 702-7823047. six surface lifts. % 702-831-8361. lessons. with the longest vertical drop (3. Diamond Peak. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. Lessons. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. rentals. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. lesson. Snowboarders are welcome. . skate skis. $8 after 3 PM). and rental. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices.840 feet. Heavenly. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. 1210 Ski Way. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. the greatest acreage (4. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff.000 feet above sea level. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). and/or snowshoes. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. Incline Village. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. trail pass) is $34. This is a monster of a mountain. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. % 702-749-5349. childcare and a shuttle bus are available.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. rentals. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. Heavenly has 18 chairs.000 to 9.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. not to mention great views of the lake. all-terrain skis. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. For cross-country fans. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000.
% 702-831-3537. South Lake Tahoe. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 916-544-1221. % 702782-0867. Sierra Mountaineer. 89502.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. 89502. % 702786-5111. Galena Ski Rentals. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. 2615 Mill Street. Serva Ski. 89502. PO Box 19215. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. 89502. 89451. 89451. 321 Sky Way. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Stateline House of Ski. 89502. % 702-3239463. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. % 702-8269096. % 702-786-2020. 89451. 140 Vesta Street. % 702-588-5935. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. C&J Flight Aviation. 89502. 235 East Plumb Lane. 89423. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. % 702-831-2922. 89502. Mogul Mouse. % 702-3226001. 1200 South Wells Avenue. Snowind Sports. % 702-329-5358. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 515 East Moana Lane. CA 96151. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. In Reno. 89502. % 702-786-7071. % 702-358-4824. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. Sundance Ski Company. Excell Skates. 2500 East 2nd Street. of- . 1685 Highway 395 South. % 702831-3500. % 702-849-0111. 209 Kingsbury.
also features condo accommodations. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. on this site since 1944. % 800-635-0066. % 702-588-8571.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. % 800-427-8397. % 800-648-3353. $$$-$$$$. the Sierras and. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. $$$-$$$$. Harvey’s Resort. % 800-99-RIDGE. of course. % 702-784-4944. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. Lake Village Vacations. . wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. Tahoe Summit Village. $$$-$$$$. $$$$. $$$$$$$. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. has 740 rooms. three. Lake Tahoe. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. The upscale Ridge Tahoe.. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. a dance club. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. poolside service.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. High Country Soaring. has two. offers 534 rooms. eight restaurants. $$$-$$$$. % 800-6483773. Harrah’s. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. The Douglas County Airport. 398 US 50.
% 800-731-6222. a rustic feel. with more than 1. The Haus Bavaria B&B. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. A perennial four-star winner. Among the downtown locations. $$$-$$$$. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. 210 North Center Street. as well as a gym with instructor on site. % 800- . % 702-831-0287. $$-$$$. Today. 593 North Dyer Circle. $-$$. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. Harrah’s. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. 2 Stateline Road. $$-$$$$. 24 Highway 28. combines great views. % 702-588-6644. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. % 800-322-7723. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. $$. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. $$-$$$. As in Las Vegas. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. has 33 rooms.700 rooms on 38 floors.$$-$$$$. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. the Cal-Neva Resort. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. % 702-8321234. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. % 800-624-7980. $$. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. The Zephyr Cove Resort. $$$. which serves free continental breakfast. % 800-824-6391. 111 Country Club Drive. first-class. 407 North Virginia Street. % 800-225-6382. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. lawn games. % 800-687-8733.
1901 South Virginia. which features theme rooms. % 800-622-1890. $$. 1100 Nugget Avenue. Freeway convenient. two heated pools and a hair salon. 701 East 7th Street. % 702-825-7134. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. % 702-8821887. the new Peppermill. free airport shuttle and skier rates. boasts nearly 600 rooms. 600 South Carson Street. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. $$. % 800-723-6500. which overlooks the state government center. % 800-320-0627. and Vagabond Inn. $$$. $$. $. $$$. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. Motel 6. % 800-723-6500. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. % 702-786-4070. has more than 1. $. % 800-937-1436. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. Charles Hotel.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. $$. . % 800-282-2444. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. a heated pool and other amenities. $$-$$$. 500 North Sierra Street. 310 South Carson Street. welcomes bargain hunters. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. 2707 South Virginia Street. 3131 South Virginia Street. $$$$. It has more than 1. an owner-built. the Eldorado. % 800-648-5966. The St. convention facilities and some impressive suites.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. $$-$$$. % 702-827-0255. % 702-882-3643.000 rooms. % 800-648-1177. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. $$. Circus Circus. $$. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. most notably the Days Inn. % 702-358-1080. the Motel 6. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. Away from downtown. is a three-story. 345 North Virginia Street. has a heated pool. 710 West Robinson Street. $$. $$. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. 3575 South Virginia Street. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. Nearby. Rates start at $195 per night. The Atlantis. including a barber shop.
The Topaz Lodge & Casino. 800 North Carson. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. 2001 Foothill Road. including the small Genoa House Inn. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. % 702-782-9711. 11 with private baths. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. There are 13 rooms. % 800-962-0732. the inn was built in 1872 by A. $-$$. % 702-782-7075. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. It has four rooms. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. % 702-847-9777. 180 Nixon Street. % 702-847-0111. $$. has five rooms. $$-$$$. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. % 702-847-0521. 2332 Main Street. % 702-8825535. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. Pratt. $-$$. 300 Main Street. $-$$. two with private baths. 565 South D Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. $$-$$$. $$$. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. $$. 1431 Ezell Street. $$$. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. and a casino. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. % 800-321-6983. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. #800-628-7831. was built in the late 1800s. is the center of the action. 1540 Main Street. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. . % 702-557-2220. $. $$. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. % 702-882-3046. 907 South Carson. and Pioneer. The Crooked House.C. It has four rooms. $-$$. 1435 US 395. % 702-782-8720. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. % 702-782-7644. The motel has 40 rooms. 1979 US 395. % 702-782-5697. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. $$$. for weary wanderers. 8 South F Street. 1643 US 395. The Chollar Mansion. some with kitchenettes. $$. 1627 US 395. generic motels abound in Carson City.
seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. The French cuisine is made with fresh. 3065 West 4th Street. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. seasonal ingredients. Steak. % 702-941-0371. 3127 South Virginia Street. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. % 702-323-5550. % 702-323-3200. . % 702-588-6611. of course. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. $. Open for dinner only. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. Famous Murphys. The Chart House. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. the lake’s first casino. the menu changes every two months. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. ethnic food and full buffets. including a seafood and oyster bar. % 702-588-6276. 210 North Sierra Street. serves fresh Japanese steak. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. 328 Kingsbury Grade. 1200 Razorback Road. along with Caesars Tahoe. also run the gamut with delis. coffee shops. % 702-825-1250. no TVs and.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. The hotels. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. The place has 14 rooms. 4201 West 4th Street. try the Glory Hole. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. Ichiban. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. The restaurant also does its own baking. % 702-588-2411. Reservations are recommended. % 702-827-4111. a casino. is a rousing pub with good food. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. % 702-786-1323. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Open for dinner only. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks.
and Peppermill. % 702-882-0486. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. % 702-689-7226. % 702882-1626. . 234 North Virginia. % 702-8262121. Two blocks away. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. % 702-882-4556. seafood and steak. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. 4389 South Carson Street. The Carson Nugget Steak House. % 702-356-3300. Adele’s. El Charro Avitia. % 702-348-9297. 1020 North Carson Street. % 702-847-0111. Boasting a large Italian menu. % 702-882-3353. serves fine French cuisine. There is also an extensive wine list. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. Silvana’s. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. % 702-785-7000. 1301 North Carson Street. Heidi’s. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. South of the city center and south of the border. this is the place. one of the top Italian eateries in country. 402 East William Street. 2707 South Virginia Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. 255 North Sierra Street. % 702-883-6261. % 702-8835100. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. % 702786-5700. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. dinner only on weekends. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. the Eldorado. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. 1540 Main Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. 1112 North Carson Street. 507 North Carson Street.
If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. 735 Mill Street. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. for more information. The nightly fee is $5. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. Rates run about $18 per night. % 702-322-2281. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. Mount Rose has running water. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. There are 44 campsites here. which straddles the Nevada-California border. % 702-789-2000. The overnight rate is $12. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. California. nine for RVs. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. some for RVs and some for tents. Big Spring Reservoir. call % 702266-3343.900 feet. Open May through October. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. % 702-8822766. the campground has 24 sites. Nightly fees are $6. Open June through September. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. Showers are available. On the Nevada side. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. . 2500 East 2nd Street. % 702-687-4319. Reno RV Park. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. Set at 8. % 916-279-6101. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. Call the Cedarville. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. the campground has 54 sites and running water. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. The overnight fee is $7. Simply wonderful. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. including Virgin Valley. For information and fees. 1300 West 2nd Street. % 916-573-2600. office of the BLM. lies south of the river. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. % 702-323-3381.
The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. pausing only long enough to change mounts. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune.. Orphans preferred. skinny. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. Want ads called for “Young. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. willing to risk death daily. Beginning in April 1860. the gutsy riders. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. wiry fellows not over eighteen. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. 1861. Incredibly. and Sacramento. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. carrying only a pistol. Bible and mail pouch.” Riders. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. Missouri. On October 24..Pony Express Territory vada. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. California. Joseph. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. tore between stations.
But if you consider solitude. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. glacier-carved peaks.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. hiking and wildlife viewing. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. Ranging in elevation from 3. In the higher mountains. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. ridges and valleys in the country. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. spans some of the most beautiful. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. there is excellent skiing. . so be prepared for anything. this area has plenty to offer.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. Great Basin. Just a few hours from Ely. As might be expected. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. Near the town of Ely. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
1000 Auction Road. . The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. Over 14. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. In recent years. April through December.000 photographic images. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. White-faced ibis. The Churchill County Museum & Archives.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. 1050 South Maine Street. (See On Water. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. snowy plovers. % 702-867-3500. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier.000 years. % 702-423-5128. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. % 702-423-3677. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. Admission is free. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. pelicans. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon.000 people. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. In peak years. peregrine falcons. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. Sunday. the refuge shelters upwards of 350.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. green-winged teals. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. covers 77. and Sunday noon to 5 PM.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. January through March. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. below. With 10. canvasbacks.
which is open only twice a month for guided tours. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. Every spring. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. Just east of town.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. which features the famous Blue Angels.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. Just off the highway are two short trails. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Adam Fortunate Eagle. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. Over 8. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. is the artist in residence here. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Pony Express Territory . a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads.000 years ago. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. At press time. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. The hunting season usually opens in October. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. More than 21. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. On the south end of town. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. and “management” means hunting. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. Besides regaling visitors with his tales.
One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. % 702-423-4556. regularly emanate from the dune. If the roar of engines ever dies down. but strenuous. . keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. 379 West William Avenue. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. A hike to the precipice is a safe. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. roars and moans. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. dark. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. 100 Campus Way. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. Near the station. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. Fallon.” meaning sword. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. wild West. listen for the mountain’s “singing. geology and history of the region. NV 89406. about three miles past West Gate. fauna. NV 89406. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. Fallon. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. volcanic cliffs around it.” Booms. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. % 702-423-2544. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. the low.
the boom was followed by the bust. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. Austin. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). NV 89045.577 feet. then to paved NV 376. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. As always. Three miles later. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. Six miles later. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. PO Box 1149. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. population about 300. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. 13 miles east of Austin. then climbs again to Austin. However the rush began. % 702-964-2145. Round Mountain. Spencer’s Hot Springs.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road).Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour.350 feet. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. % 702-964-2200. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. NV 89310. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. past Bob Scott campground. PO Box 212. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. Austin is a quiet. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory .
Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. After merging with Lower Mine Road. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. There is also a free campground here. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. near Pete’s Summit.500 years ago.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. experienced cavers only. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. is recommended for serious. A series of safe. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. Battle Mountain.000 years ago.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. At mile 55. are open to visitors just off the road. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. % 702635-4000. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. A long. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. PO Box 212. NV 89310. Austin. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. The hill is located on private land. % 702-964-2200. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. The limestone cavern. NV 89820. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. At mile 30. PO Box 1420. .430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road.
found in the valleys around Eurkea. Gold mines. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. but most definitely worth a gander. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. Not until five years later. Still. But by 1890 the rush was over. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. Eureka. PO Box 14. are still a major facet of the local economy. Eureka’s population of 9. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . The state’s No. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. and the Jackson House Hotel. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. some a little less gloriously than others.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. NV 89316. The shell of the building. The building. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. however. % 702-237-5484. completed in 1880 and still in use today.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. By 1878. dates from 1877. Eureka. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing.
but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. % 702-237-5484. US 50 rolls across basin and range.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. Monday through Friday and by appointment. Eureka. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman.000 feet. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. NV 89316. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Entering town at night . the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers.500 residents. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. Situated at 9. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. A few miles farther south. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. PO Box 14. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. n Ely Back on US 50. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. this mini-city (population about 5. Pronounced EE-lee.
The White Pine Public Museum. The museum. as well as an original. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. former First Lady Pat Nixon. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. On the other side of town. There is primitive camping here. running water. Call for exact dates and times. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. NV 89301. a bicycle. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. % 702-728-4467. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. Return to US 50.50 per person. East Ely. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. depart on selected dates from May through September. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. like many museums in this territory. 2000 Aultman Street. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months.300 feet. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. % 702-289-2085. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. depot. Tours of the railroad yard. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. % 702-2894710. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. clothing. Since they went cold in the 1880s. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. Pony Express Territory . Prices start at $10 per person. located on East 11th Street. furniture. showers and hiking trails.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. PO Box 150040. engine house. Admission is free. accessories.
a proposal to create a 6.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. % 702-289-8877. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. That leads quickly to Baker. In the 1950s a . % 702-234-7331. Bristlecone Convention Center. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure.000 people a year visit the park. untamed backcountry. 1986. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. 150 6th Street. Designated a national park in October. In 1922. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. % 800496-9350. sometimes by the hundreds. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. While hikers are welcome. Most of the 77. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. % 702-289-4865. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. From Baker.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. contact the Ely office of the BLM. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. Only about 70. For more information. 636 Aultman Street.
Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. are held every day except Thanksgiving. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. The high-altitude campgrounds. columns.000.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. Finally. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. limited to 30 people at a time. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. $3 for juniors. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. While celebrating a victory. Baker. flowstone and soda straws. which is actually one huge cavern. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. then head straight out of the park.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. (See On Foot and Camping. Christmas and New Year’s Day.000 to 44.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. Call ahead for conditions. below. stalagmites. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. Tours of the cavern. . there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. Prices are $4 for adults. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations.067-foot Wheeler Peak. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. are hard to beat. among others. ski resorts and tramways. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. or speleotherms: stalactites. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area.086-acre Great Basin National Park. NV 89311-9702. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. draperies. too. % 702-234-7331. Congress settled on 77. the park’s crown jewel. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. in 1986.
Carvers NW. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes.000 feet. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. Tierney Creek. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. to reach the village of Kingston. The garnets found here. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. or use paved NV 376. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. To reach Garnet Hill. are spessartite. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. which has picnic tables and shade trees. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. Bakeoven Creek. Millet Ranch.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. % 702-9642671. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. South Toiyabe Peak. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. Arc Dome. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. Drive three miles to the recreation area. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. a few of which are even of gem quality. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. .600 feet. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. Set at 7. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon.
Pony Express Territory . The area’s claims to fame are The Table.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area.000-acre. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. Baker. and Mount Moriah. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. After about 10 miles of hiking. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. leave the high country immediately. The wilderness. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. set aside in 1989. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. with many trails climbing above 10. which heads west toward the peak. windswept paths. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. If threatening clouds approach. which at 12. as well as all the water you will need. The trail ends just before the summit. From the trailhead/parking area.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. which may be impassable when wet. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. is marked with trailhead signs. % 702-289-3031 for more information. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must.000 feet along rocky. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. This is some serious highcountry hiking. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. nausea. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. headache. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). a unique. 1.
063 feet.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. or cirque. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. the six-mile . This is another depression etched by a glacier. At 13. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. the last 1.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. To reach the summit.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. then descends to Teresa Lake. the views of the 8. In 1878. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. If it is safe to venture to the peak. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. Continue straight. The bowl. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. then turn left again. Use extreme caution here. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. Finally.
To continue the loop hike. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. just off to the east. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move.700 feet in the first seven miles. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. Around mile six.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. subalpine conditions. Turn left. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. In good weather. Lehman Caves. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. Wheeler Peak. After about three miles. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. once the site of some mining activity. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. To return to the trailhead. this is a nice overnight stop. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead.926-foot Pyramid Peak. . backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. Return the way you came. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. Kious Spring. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth.950 years. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground.
% 702-664-2977. 89301. 3125 Stark Lane. 89406. % 702-289-4208. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. Great Basin Inn. % 702423-9215. 89301. HCR 33. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. 89406. 89406. 89883. 1707 Rice Road. % 702235-7439. 89301. % 800-874-0903. Wendover George A. Wildlife West Guide Service. J & P Auto Parts. % 702-423-6171. 5030 Reno Highway. % 702-423-5185. % 702-4239215. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. 89301. HC 34. % 702-867-3388. 89301. Burdick Guide Service. % 702-2893063. PO Box 34005. Box 33570. % 702-289-4468. 701 Avenue F. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. . 189 Aultman Street. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. Silver State Stables. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. 89406. 203 Heritage Drive. PO Box 2560. As of presstime. 89406. is worth a gander. Flying M Stables. 89301. % 702-289-8886. White River Guide Service. Sportsworld. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 2005 Harrigan Road. a quartermile. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. 1050 Aultman Street. Daum. % 702-238-5232. sells camping and outdoor equipment.
Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. brochures and campgrounds. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. PO Box 504. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. Austin.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. For more information. For more information. contact the BLM. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. % 702-885-6000.000 per year. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. Austin. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory .300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. NV 89310. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. the sixstory. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. NV 89310.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. Dune-buggy. one would think tiny Austin. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. The route runs north out of the canyon. population 300. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. A 10-mile loop with a 1. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. % 702-964-2671. PO Box 130.
directions and road conditions. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. when the weather is dry. and bring plenty of water. . Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. From the pavement. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. % 702-289-8886. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. past the US Forest Service station. 1500 Aultman Street. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. sells and services bicycles. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. % 702-234-7331. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. for maps. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake.
% 702-688-1500. Pony Express Territory . The trout limit is 10. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. along with sportfishing. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. White crappie can be hooked March through May. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Lahontan State Recreation Area. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. where worms and corn are said to work best. Boat ramps are located in two spots. surrounds a 10. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. In 1997.
About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. 1500 Aultman Street. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. and one of the best bargains. % 702-289-4468. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. is one of the biggest places in town. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. % 702-423-6031. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. 1050 Aultman Street. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. % 702-289-4865. 701 Avenue F. Great Basin Inn. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. The Upper Reese River. via paved NV 376 and a three. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. % 702-289-8886. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. which feeds the lake. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. $-$$. A few chain HO TE L . % 702-289-3063. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. 855 West Williams Avenue. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. J & P Auto Parts.
with 10 rooms. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. the Lincoln Motel. % 702-964-2471. while on the southern edge of town.800 acres. The Eureka Motel. For a real blast from the past. % 702-423-2194. 1830 West Williams Avenue. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. which has 49 rooms. The ranch. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. $-$$. the 22-room Value Inn. $. The Sundown Lodge. which has 17 rooms. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. basic equipment. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. called Main Street as it runs through town. instruction. 25 North Taylor Street. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. % 702-423-4254. $. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. combines a B&B with a private. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. $$. % 702-237-5247. $-$$. which has 30 rooms. 1705 South Taylor Street. but after a long day on the road. 180 West Williams Avenue. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. It is open seasonally. % 702-423-2277. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. % 702-237-5577. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. the Pony Express House. rates and directions. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. % 702-237-5334. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . has 27 rooms. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. has 21 rooms. $$$. As you drive in from the west. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. Smith Creek Ranch. The red brick structure was built in 1877. % 702-9642605. a heated pool and a small casino. most of which are on US 50. % 702-423-5554. a heated pool and interior corridors. $. % 702-964-2306. % 702-964-2698. $$$. % 702-423-4648. The Nevada Belle Motel. is a modern. 115 Northwest Main Street. meals and overnight accommodations.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. $$. the Budget Inn. Call for information. also called Main Street here. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. who really cares. % 702-423-5151. $-$$. and. which is north-south running US 95. On the east end of town. has 17 rooms. including the Comfort Inn. $-$$. 70 East Williams Avenue. try Jackson House B&B. $-$$. $-$$.
930 Aultman Street. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. $-$$. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. $-$$. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. $. % 702-289-4884. 700 Avenue I. % 702289-6671. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. % 702-289-4497. 501 Aultman Street. has 21 rooms. is another living antique. There are also private balconies. 770 Avenue O. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. $-$$. For a more genteel stay. For a more modern taste. 701 Avenue I. % 702-289-6665. Ely With a population of more than 5. $$. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel.300. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. $-$$. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. the inn has five rooms with private baths. The inn is open June through September. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. which has 19 rooms. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). and its twin. $$-$$$. 1501 Avenue F. % 702-289-8687. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. After years of dormancy. $-$$. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. % 702-289-8838. 500 High Street. which has 61 rooms. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. located on the south side of town off US 93. two-story hotel. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. $. % 702-289-4747. 220 East 11th Street. % 702-289-8900. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. % 702-237-9988. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. $-$$$. 1101 Aultman Street. The Bristlecone Motel. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. % 702-2891234. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. 5th . the building was vacant 10 years later.
which has a laundromat and showers. % 702-234-7267.. % 702234-7323. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. 150 4th Street. along with horseback riding. % 702-289-4411. NV 89311. and Whispering Elms RV Park. % 702-234-7343. offers tipis and a campground. The Silverjack Motel. % 702-237-7302. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. $. 24hour laundromat and showers. so call ahead for operating hours. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. is a favorite spot for travelers. what with its 29 rooms. and two others outside of Baker. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. even fast food joints are nonexistent. . $-$$. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. $-$$. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. % 702-289-3033. % 702-289-3800. South of Baker at the national park boundary. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. $. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch.er. the Border Inn. Utah.. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. with its seven rooms. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. PO Box 90. $. $. It is open June through August. % 702-234-7323. % 702-234-7272. Behind the Silverjack. guided tours and off-road adventures. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. % 702234-7300. 1301 Aultman Street. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. Baker. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. and the White Pine Motel. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce.
Smack in the center of town. Denny’s. have been serving great burgers. 70 South Maine Street. is known throughout Fallon. including the few eateries. 960 Auction Road. In 1929 and ’30. 875 West Williams Avenue. is also open for three squares a day. Café Nations.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. The Fallon Nugget Casino. The International Café and Bar. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. 4150 Reno Highway. The Mexican food at La Cocina. In the 1920s and ‘30s. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. The Depot Casino. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. % 702423-6828. is Fallon’s only coffee house. 1350 West Williams Avenue. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. % 702-423-3233. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. 1560 West Williams Avenue. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. including McDonald’s. Carol’s Country Kitchen. Kentucky Fried Chicken. Toiyabe Café. Tony’s. % 702-423-3111. 1955 McClean Road. % 702-964-2220. lunch and dinner. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. try Mary’s Owl . thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. % 702-867-3750. Open for breakfast. % 702-964-2493. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. % 702-423-2117. is home to The Diner. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. however. 125 South Maine Street. If your mind is on pizza. specializing in omelets and steaks. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. serves up steaks. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. % 702-423-5588. % 702-423-6166. Stockman’s Casino. % 702-964-9905. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). % 702-867-2769. is located in the secondoldest building in the state.
% 702-289-3313. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. % 702-237-5477. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. Jerry Restaurant No. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. % 702-2289-3765. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. The Fireside Inn. % 702-237-5280. % 702-688-1500. % 702-964-2412. where the restaurants are also along US 50. 562 Aultman Street. Fallon RV Park. % 702-867-3636. is also open 24 hours a day. 5787 Reno Highway. 501 Aultman Street. and Orient Express. and Hubtotel RV Park. serving diner-style grub. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. might as well top it off in Eureka. located three miles north of town on US 93. 4800 Reno Highway. which features prime rib. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . 1455 Aultman Street. % 702-964-2627. % 702-289-3905. serves a fine steak sandwich. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. West of Fallon. Believe it or not. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. The Busy Bee Drive-In. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. has 64 sites. 701 Avenue I. Lahontan State Recreation Area. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. % 702-289-4888. and is attached to a bar. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. 21. offers 45 sites. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. top sirloin steak and eggs. % 702-867-2332. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. 211 5th Street. % 702-289-4884. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. % 702-289-3033. The Owl Club.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. 2160 Aultman Street. however. % 702-289-6665. % 702-237-5356.
No running water or firewood. For information. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. Finally. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. PO Box 1420.500 feet.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. where there are eight campsites set at 7. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. 24 miles east of Austin. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. To reach Bird Creek campground. NV 89820. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. After a few miles. % 702-964-1011.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. There are 10 sites here . There is drinking water here. along with campfire rings. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. then go a mile to County Road 1059. % 702-964-2671. % 702-635-4000. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. PO Box 130. Battle Mountain. Only six miles southwest of Ely. Just east of the Eureka town limits. picnic tables and vault toilets. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. There are 15 sites.800 feet. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. Just east of town. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. About nine miles south of Big Creek. North of Ely. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. as there are no services near the water. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. set at 7. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. grills. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. which are open June through September with running water. Austin RV Park. For more information and road conditions. both off of US 50. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). Bob Scott Campground. Open April to October. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. Austin. None have running water. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit.300 feet. NV 89310.
Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93.250 feet). operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. and there are no showers. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. depending on weather conditions. Set at 7. % 702-2893303. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road.300 feet. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. Pony Express Territory . for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. has 100 sites. The BLM.752 feet. 89301. on US 93. On the northern edge of the park. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. There are 30 sites here at 7. For more information. % 702-2893031. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. 350 8th Street. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. Upper Lehman. % 702-234-7331. % 702-2893413.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. this is the only park campground open all year. and Valley View RV Park. Contact the visitors center. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. In the center of the park. NV. % 702-289-4865. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7.530 feet. Ely.886 feet. To reach the campground from US 50. In Great Basin National Park. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely.
humans.700 years. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. . when University of Arizona researcher Dr. Edmund Schulman.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4.000 feet and more. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. started pulling core samples. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. however. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. Desert bighorn sheep.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. the oldest living thing on earth. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. who described them as “lowly old giants. Named Methuselah. He found one living specimen dating back 4. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. sagebrushcovered sea. the state animal. call many parts of this high country home. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. The short.000-year-old duck decoys. Today in Cowboy Country. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. not many of them stayed around very long. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. Throughout history. reaching as high as 11. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border.
As remote as Cowboy Country can be. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. The weather here can be as wild as the land. and know how to use them. towns like Winnemucca. bass and other gamefish. Carry good maps and a compass. Winter brings rain and snow. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. bikers and equestrians. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers.000 years. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. Elko headed the list of the 100 . twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. streams. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. Summers are generally hot and dry.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. lakes and reservoirs. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. In fact. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. In 1993.
The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. Cowboy Country . after the riches ran out. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. parts of which are still visible today. including one named Samuel Clemens. combed Cowboy Country. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. others moved on. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. In late 1860s. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. but thanks to new mining technology. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. followed by the doomed Donner Party. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. both held in Elko. This is a place where pick-up trucks. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. lunch and dinner. But since the early days. but everyday tools. The famous trail. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. paralleled the Humboldt River. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. took to sheepherding. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail.
the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around.300. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. which crosses the Humboldt River. The seat of 6. about 17 miles from Lovelock. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds.000-square-mile Pershing County. With a population of just over 2. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. located on the southern outskirts of town. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. which the company named after him. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. turn left on Derby Road. After eight miles. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. which measures . Five miles southwest of the shelter. George Lovelock. arrived here in 1866.
quite common in this part of the Great Basin. many of which were donated by locals. He may have been led there by Natchez. dark. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. Admission is free. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. are large. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. NV 89419. in 1886 or 1887. picnicperfect park. Scientific excavations. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. Lovelock. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. Mummified remains were found here. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. clothing and household items. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. Tufas. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. One of only two round courthouses in the country. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. PO Box 821. which also features the community pool. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. the first ever in the Great Basin. % 702-273-2713.
% 702-273-2713. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper).134 n Cowboy Country vada. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. below) and wellmanicured homes. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. fishing and camping. PO Box 821. After later taking the name Mark Twain. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. as well as opportunities for boating. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. Lovelock. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. where stone . NV 89419. For details. About 16 families reside in Unionville. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. % 702-538-7321. Open all year. see below under Adventures. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. is centered on this man-made lake. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. which seems close enough to touch.
the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. Curator . the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. dancing. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. a former resident. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. Edna Purviance. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. From here it’s five miles to the town. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. a good spot for a picnic. Today their descendants. Admission is free. % 702-623-2912. Winnemucca (population 7. the Humboldt Museum complex. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. % 702/623-2225. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. except for lunch. They later brought their families. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. To reach Unionville from I-80. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right.
One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. % 702623-5025. Like something out of old Mexico. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. 95 Bridge Street. Another gem is the Shone House. US Forest Service. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. 705 East Fourth Street. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. Winnemucca. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. The former First National Bank. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. one of two in the country. The thieves escaped to Texas. . Winnemucca. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. % 800-962-2638. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. There is a gift shop next door. Winnemucca.000 in gold. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. NV 89445. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. 602 Bridge Street. St. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. nabbing $32. along with a thank you note. but all are easily drivable. NV 89445. was erected in 1863. The tour visits 30 sites. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-1500. Winnemucca. 352 Bridge Street. NV 89445. % 702-623-5025. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard.000.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. NV 89445. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier.
Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. Midas is two miles from this junction. all but 250 people left. Three years later the village became Paradise City. along with the local watering hole. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. once a busy town of more than 2. A 20th-century ghost town. The camp was abandoned by 1869. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. the town was an empty shell. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. To reach the remains of the camp. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. Today about 100 people live in town. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. after fending off resident Paiutes. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912.300 people had moved by 1913.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. and 2. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. established Scottsdale in 1866. The Rochester Mining District. which serves as a meeting place and information center. which . Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. Jungo. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains.
the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. deli and soda fountain. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. % 702-623-5025. Basque . verdant marshes. beautiful high-country lake. The local mining.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. (See Adventures and Camping. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. biking. % 702-578-3381. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. (See Adventures. however. Paradise Saloon.) In town. this town of about 25. Just south of town. In Winnemucca. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. fishing and camping. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. located on the extreme east end of town. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. offers a bar. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. Gas is also available. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. A state park. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. After all. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. It’s the white. this is Cowboy Country. 1515 Idaho Street.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. % 702-7383418. sometimes an angler’s paradise. obtain maps. is easy to locate.
% 702-738-7508. and a charter airline. % 800-8727245.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. 9 AM to 5 PM. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. 501 Railroad Street. . Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. and Sunday. % 800-331-1212. % 800-654-3131. geography. The Western Folklife Center. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. also known as J. Harris Field. Deweys Rent-A-Car. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. % 800-453-9417. 1 PM to 5 PM. geology and industry abound. % 702-738-5131. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. 10 AM to 5 PM. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. Displays of local wildlife. % 702-738-7123. For airport information.Touring n 139 immigrants. The museum is open Monday through Saturday.C. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. Admission is free. Hertz Rent-A-Car. along with various other events throughout the year. El Aero Services. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range).
This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. 700 Moren Way. % 702-738-7135. 89803. Elko. 90. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. Humboldt National Forest. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. From town. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. Elko.387 feet at Ruby Dome.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. fishing and camping in the entire West. At the . passing Powerhouse picnic area. Elko. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. From Elko. Alpine vistas.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. Elko. Elko Chamber of Commerce. 3900 East Idaho Street. with elevations ranging up to 11. located southeast of Elko. % 702-738-5171. 89801. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. (See Adventures and Camping. 89801.800 feet). Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. 976 Mountain City Highway. 89801. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. % 800-248-ELKO. including the remote. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. % 702-753-0200. 1601 Idaho Street. The white-washed Presbyterian Church.
There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. or call them at % 702-488-2315.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. For access to both. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year.387 feet. is spectacular. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. More than 1. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. The road leads east 21 miles.500 people flooded into the region. Yes. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. the road meets the Jarbidge River. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. For details on all of this. Even when they are open. Idaho. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. then north another 25 miles. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. . Nevada. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. (See On Foot. is visible in the west. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. and by the 1930s the rush was over. check with the owners of the Trading Post. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. Ruby Dome. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. From Wells. so drive cautiously. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. this town sticks to Mountain Time. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. a high clearance vehicle is required. rising 11.Touring n 141 crest. U-shaped valley. turns south. see below. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. From the south. down into Jarbidge Canyon. and there’s no argument here.
The town was abandoned in 1942. This is also the junction of US 93. To access the flats. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. % 801-665-7721. the 44. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. 4 and go five miles northeast.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. of course. 647 Humboldt Avenue. and the 37. however. the main difference between the two sides being. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . the main artery running up the east side of the state. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. Sunday until 9 PM.) On the Utah side of the state line. try Stuart’s Foodtown. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. the presence of casinos. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. The range is also home to Angel Lake. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. head east from the border. n Wendover From Wells. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. reached easily via a paved highway. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. % 702-752-3215. stop at Horizon Viewpoint.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. exit at No. Bonneville Speedway Museum. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. which rises to 11. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. stare out across the famous. both available at the Trading Post. For ghost town fans. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. Cool. Before entering town. n Wells From Elko.
when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. a .000 buckaroos. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. June Both hay. % 702-664-3414. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. falcons and ospreys are common. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. which gains 1. the historic World War II B-29s. is held in late March or early April.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. hawks.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying.600 feet in two miles. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. which attracts upwards of 10. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. Eagles. The night before the events.
Near Wendover. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. . They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. when tanks. call % 702-635-8245. Phone numbers can be found above. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. Unless otherwise indicated. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. For details. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. The town of McDermitt. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. In Wendover. The largest Basque get-together in the US. dancing. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. There is a traditional dance contest.. featuring food. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. under Touring. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. July In July. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend.or 23-mile loop. a parade and feats of strength. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. hear the music and eat the food. six.
From the top.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness.000 feet in four miles. which . Aspen. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. From here. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. willow and cottonwood country. including the 31. The trailhead appears after three miles. Star Peak. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. crossing Buffalo Creek. passable by high-clearance vehicles. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. Granite Peak (elevation 9.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range.732) is the highest point. climbing more than 4. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. Star Peak (elevation 9. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. To reach the trailhead. Falcon Press Publishing. The trail is punishing. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. To reach the trail. 1994. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. Chartered in 1989. This makes for a great loop drive. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit.200 feet. leads due east toward the highest point. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. The first half of the moderately strenous. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. the road. Pronghorn antelope. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon.834 feet).
800 feet above sea . Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca.415). including Singas Creek. where you turn south. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. descends toward a watercourse. Horses are welcome on these trails.” Elevations range from 6. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. % 702-623-5025. narrow canyons. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. USGS 7.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information.6 miles to a parking area. Come prepared for anything. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. Return the way you came. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. Mountain lions. about one mile south of town. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). big horn sheep. The gravel and dirt road runs 5.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. cirque basins.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. more than 10. depending on weather conditions. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. Hikers can visit rock peaks. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. glacial lakes.
Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). % 702-738-7135. set at 9. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. After about a mile and a half. and his dog Molly.400 feet. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. Feel free. as there are no trout here. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. Franklin Lake NW. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. The pass is often closed in winter. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. this is the high point of the trek. At 10. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. Pause to rest but not to fish. % 702-752-3357. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. From Roads End.500 feet. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. know this region as well as anyone. so check road conditions before heading out. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. The five-mile. granite landscape to Liberty Pass.400 feet and heads north. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. Hyslop. of course. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. The 1.Adventures n 147 level. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce.300-foot . The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail.
follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. On a good day. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. subalpine forests. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. From the trailhead. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. Return the way you came. the closest town. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. The trail drops again. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. Unfortunately. Idaho. Wild- .700 feet. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. Most of the paths are found in the 113.000-foot mark. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. Just past the spring. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. Finally.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness.000 feet to 10. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
% 702-623-5025. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. supports brook. mountain whitefish. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. Channel cats. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. For more information. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. brown and rainbow trout. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. campsites and restrooms.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. To reach the lake from Elko. rainbows. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. call % 702-758-6493. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. The site has a paved boat ramp. is also a good fishing spot. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. and everything is open year-round. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. and black bass have become a favorite catch. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. Fishing is best in spring and early summer.
The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. including bald and golden eagle. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. For an easier drive from Wells. Turn left and head south 32 miles.800 feet. Within six miles of the trailhead. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. great sandhill crane. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter.000 acres. short-eared owl and American kestrel. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. For more information. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. . including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. trumpeter swam. Angel Lake Near Wells. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. elevation 8. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. To reach the refuge from Elko. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike.154 n Cowboy Country ers. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. % 702-738-5171. white-faced ibis. midway between the northern and southern portions. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. At the foot of the range. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. so check road conditions before heading out. contact the US Forest Service. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. and a campground is found just outside the refuge.
Rainbow. HC 60. % 702-777-DIVE. % 702-625-2453. the spring-fed. 89801. 89801. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. Raley’s. For more information. PO Box 685. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. % 702-7388473. Grandview Marine. % 702-664-3414. 89833. % 702779-2226. 285 12th Street. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. Elko Guide Service. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. 2511 Mountain City Highway. In warmer months. % 702-7442277. have become a local haven for divers.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. 89833. crystalline Blue Lakes. 89801. Secret Pass Outfitters. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . HC 60. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. 1250 Lamoille Highway. 423 South Bridge Street. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. PO Box 515. To reach the 2. are the best bets here.400-acre lake. HC30 Box 17 #13. % 702779-2268. the bowcut trout. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. catfish. 89801. % 702-7382775. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93.
has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. Lunch and dinner are extra. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. with a 24-hour casino. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. one tame and the other decidedly not so. 1420 Cornell Avenue.500 to 6. $$. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. ranging from 5. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. covering 5.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region.200 feet. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. . Elko SnoBowl. % 702-753-6867. offers 130 acres of terrain.200 vertical feet. not to mention 74 rooms. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. lodging and all the extras. lounge.000 acres of skiable mountain. 2805 Unionville Road. % 800-528-1234. 55 Cornell Avenue. restaurant. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. To reach the ranch from I80. pool and jacuzzi. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast.500 feet. Although there isn’t a television to be found. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. % 702-538-7585. $-$$. Trips are limited to 16 people. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. The Lovelock Inn. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. % 702-738-7135. is convenient to I-80. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. The outfit boasts 5. % 702-273-2937. then head west for five miles to town. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. $$$. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. is the most happening place in town. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. depending on snowfall.
$$-$$$. a pool and 223 rooms. % 702-738-8425. $$-$$$. eateries. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. % 702-738-8421. is for you.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. % 800-346-5306. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. and the Days Inn. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-3646. 3015 Idaho Street. % 702-738-8787. and the Motel 6. There are plenty of cheap. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. the Super 8. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. casino. 2050 Idaho Street. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The Gold Country Inn. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. a lounge with live entertainment. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. the 80-room Val-U Inn. and the Model T Motel. $$$$$. the Red Lion Inn. including the queen of Elko establishments. $$$. 400 1st Street. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). % 702-623-1116. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Casino Express. % 800-262-8901. basic motels on the main drag. % 702-623-5248. offering 70 rooms. $$. % 800-545-0044. % 800-633-6435. 1930 Idaho Street. but also its own charter airline. the Gold Country Motor Inn. 837 Idaho Street. with 150 rooms. the Red Lion Inn. $-$$. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. % 800-645-5658. and the generic. % 702-623-1180. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. $-$$. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard.000. restaurant and full bar. $$. $$. There are also two Best Westerns. $$-$$$. The Red Lion not only has a casino. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. the Ameritel Inn Elko. and the Holiday Motel. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. $-$$. % 702-623-3661. $$. offers 40 rooms. $$-$$$$. $$. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. the 170-room Holiday Inn. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. restaurant and bar. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. in- . 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. % 702-7387261. 2065 Idaho Street. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. starting with the two biggies. % 702-625-1818.
Stonehouse Country Inn. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. % 702-738-5522. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. bar and pool. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. has 70 rooms. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. $$$$. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. 345 Idaho Street. along with a pool. and the Thunderbird Motel. Red’s Ranch. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. 340 Commercial Street. 89828. detached cabin with jacuzzi. $$-$$$. $$$-$$$$. $-$$. % 702-578-3530. Just outside of Lamoille. 2401 Mountain City Highway. There are 141 rooms. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. % 702-738-5141. biking and horseback riding. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. % 702-753-6356. . There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. including skeet shooting. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. $-$$. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. % 702-738-8488. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. Stockmen’s Hotel. % 702-753-6363. There is even space for campers and RVers. 1755 Idaho Street. % 702-753-6281. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. % 702-738-7115. hiking and fly fishing. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. is an exclusive. Lamoille. PO Box 281381. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. The Shilo Inn. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. $$-$$$. PO Box 281208. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. $$$-$$$$. some with kitchenettes. a swimming pool. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. Away from Idaho Street. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. $$. Jiggs Guest Ranch. jacuzzi and fitness center. $-$$. restaurants. $$. $$$-$$$$.
Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. % 702-752-3384. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. $-$$. % 702-752-2101. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. $-$$. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. % 702-752-3353. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. % 702-752-3604. offers another 24 rooms. PO Box 260090. For more information. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. Together . which also has a restaurant and bar. the Chinatown Motel. HC 62. PO Box 300. $. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. and the Best Western Sage Motel. most of them planted along 6th Street. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. Jarbidge. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. There are 57 rooms. Down the street. if you’re into chains. The Super 8. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. % 702-752-2277. There are more than 1. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. the Rest Inn Suites.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. the Outdoor Inn. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. 930 6th Street. 576 6th Street. PO Box 1300. Cottonwood Ranch. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. has 56 rooms. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. $-$$$$. $. % 702-488-2315. $. 456 6th Street. 89826. On Main Street. $$-$$$. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. 1250 East 6th Street. If not. % 702-488-2311. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. even by the neighbors in Utah. $-$$. HC 62. $. % 800-848-7300. % 702-752-2151. and the Old West Inn. 326 6th Street. % 702-752-2116. 100 Wendover Boulevard. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. $$$-$$$$. % 702-752-3888. $-$$. $$-$$$. On the north side of town.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. % 702-7523065. % 702-4082338.
which basks in the Basque tradition. restaurants. shrimp and Basque side dishes. % 702-273-2442. the Super 8. offers breakfast. $-$$. 260 Maine Street. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. % 800-648-9660. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. tennis courts. 750 Cornell Avenue. % 800-537-0207. % 702-623-3197. which has live entertainment. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. leg of lamb. Mexican food and pizza. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. and Pizza Factory.000-square-foot casino. % 702-664-2888. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. 1420 Cornell Avenue. lunch and dinner. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. % 702-273-7444. a 14. % 702-273-2971. In the center of town. pool and jacuzzi. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. along with daily specials. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Nearby. 485 Cornell Avenue. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. with 90 rooms. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. 9 PM on Sunday. is another gamer’s haven. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. Wee B’s Pizza & More. The Peppermill Hotel. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. and until 2 PM on Sunday. $$-$$$. jacuzzi. % 702-273-3232. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. pool. % 702-273-7773. live showroom entertainment. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. La Casita. live entertainment. serving steak. is open until 10 PM every day. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. a health club. $$. 680 Wendover Boulevard. including restaurants and lounges. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. . 410 Cornell Avenue. lounges. 1325 Wendover Boulevard.
has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. This being ranch country. 1061 West Fourth Street. % 702-738-5141. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. since 1863. % 702-625-2555. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. % 702-623-2908. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. while The Griddle. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. % 702-623-4440. % 702-738-9691. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. % 702-623-2977. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. 180 Melarkey Street. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. 2065 Idaho Street. 340 Commercial Street. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. Another Basque establishment. . % 702-738-3214. The Steak House. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. but get there before 1 PM. Stockmen’s Hotel. % 702-623-6777. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. all of their meat is cut to order. The atmosphere is definitely casual. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. Elko The Red Lion Inn. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. % 702-623-4104. Restaurante San Fermin. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 1550 Idaho Street. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. % 800-545-0044. % 702-623-3455. China Garden. Toki Ona. Specializing in steak. 405 Silver Street. home of the world’s largest potato field. 95 South Bridge Street. seafood and chicken. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca.
just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. depending on weather conditions. 1740 Mountain City Highway. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. Burger Bar. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. % 702-752-3210. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. % 702-753-6363. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. also serves hearty meals. 217 Idaho Street. 9 Beans and a Burrito. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. If you crave Mexican food. Main and Humboldt Streets. La Fiesta. opens daily at 11 AM. % 702-488-2311. % 702-738-7088. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. % 702-7382541. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. . Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. % 702-753-6356. Prices range from moderate to expensive. % 702-753-3877. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. Pine Lodge. to peruse the ornate bar. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. delivers on its name. 2525 Mountain City Highway. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. Pizza Barn. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). % 702-738-1622. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. % 702-738-7898. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. % 702-4882315. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. 780 Commercial Street. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere.300 souls. where it survived The Big One in ’06. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café.
One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. The Peppermill Hotel. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. Fees are $7 per night in summer. just north of the dam. For more information. % 800-648-9660. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. offer 12 different restaurants. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. 27 and 29 are especially good. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. the area has two campgrounds. two beautiful US Forest Service . Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. located at the end of Hanson Street. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. Set at 7. For more information. Sites 22. % 800-848-7300. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. call % 702-538-7321. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. There is running water and vault toilets. $3 per night in winter. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. The fee is $7 per night. 100 Wendover Boulevard.600 feet.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. call % 702-738-5171. The main draw here is 11. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. For more information. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops.400 feet. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. $8 for a two-family site. The other one.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. 680 Wendover Boulevard. For modern hunter-gatherers. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. which holds trout and walleye. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. call % 800-962-2638. Set at 7. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. 23. 22 miles north of Lovelock. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. 25.
Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. For information on the above campgrounds. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. The campground. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. The fee is $5 per night.800 feet and is popular with anglers. . and the fee is $8 per night. all free. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground.900 feet. depending on the availability of running water. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. For more information. Angel Creek is set at 6. % 208-5434129. % 702-752-3357. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. offering 18 sites with running water. About five miles up NV 225. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. including three run by the US Forest Service. The cabins are open October through mid-May.500 feet. Set at 8. and the fee is $7 per night. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. with running water. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. has 37 first-come. but no running water. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. first-served sites. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. One mile north of town. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. and are open June to October. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752.
Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. an 11. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. who once roamed this entire area. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. both socially and physically. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. Meanwhile. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. are in a state of “arrested decay. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. like Belmont and Rhyolite. however. US For- B Pioneer Territory . Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. Others. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. writer. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
Touring n 167 est Service. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. Nevada Division of State Parks. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. Toiyabe. In the lowlands. In the Mojave Desert. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. Rocky Mountain elk. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests.000. Geographically. Department of Defense. affordable housing . and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. People and services are scarce. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. and six state parks to explore. low taxes. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. then limber pine at higher elevations. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. but the rest of the country. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts.
with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. % 702-7276900. 1771 Sagehen Road.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. 3810 Winery Road. as of this writing. 1141 South Highway 160. authorizing up to 90. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. On the south end of town in a modern. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. % 702-727-5800. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. is the first and. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. In 1997. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. % 702-7270896. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. only winery in Nevada. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. % 702-751-0821. contact the Chamber of Commerce.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . Information Sources For more Pahrump information. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. It’s also one of the hottest. The 22. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. mission-style. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. there’s no competition). According to Winona LaDuke. blue and white building.
snipe. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. It’s no easy job. coyotes and rabbits. % 702-372-1131. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. great blue herons. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. NV 89020. moorhens. however. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. then head west for about 20 miles. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. and the second-greatest in all of North America. whitefaced ibises. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. prairie falcons. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. including ducks. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. Box 610Z.300 spread over 545 square miles. . for some handmade Mexican food. Amargosa Valley. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. % 702-372-5435. coots. Visitors can. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. inaccessible to the general public. following the signs to Ash Meadows. mallards. HCR 70. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish.
three newspapers. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. Now recognized as a state historic site. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. NV 89020. HC 70. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. % 702-5532200.000. Amargosa Valley. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. maps. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. the gray. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street.000. and the old train depot. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. PO Box 6102. for more information. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building.000 claims over 30 square miles. 50 saloons. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. 19 hotels. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Kelly’s Bottle House. . built with marble floors at a cost of $90.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. % 702-3725459.
turn-of-the-century frontier community. crystal chandeliers. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. Local residents were used as models. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. % 702-553-2424. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion.000. In the first decade of the 20th century. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. life-size. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. Goldfield Founded in 1902. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. constructed in 1908 for $500.” a collection of white. however. . when the money ran dry.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. Once the largest city in the state. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. Today the remains of stone buildings. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10.000 dizzy with gold fever. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. By 1920. keeping a population of more than 20. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow.
. and east-west-running US 6. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. including the old post office that is now the local museum. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. % 702482-3558. and spend a few hours following its trail.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. 301 Brougher Avenue. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. however. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. % 702-485-6365. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. built in 1908 and still in use today. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. % 702-482-9676. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. Before heading out. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. the Central Nevada Museum. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774.
slide show and research facilities. and the 1907 George A. Admission is free. For more on these wonderful regions. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. see below under On Foot. Bartlett House. Mineral. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted.000 acres. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. Like many Nevada locales. 9 AM to 5 PM. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. Located on the north edge of town. As a judge. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. The museum is open daily. photographs and exhibits. call % 702-482-5355. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. the town exploded – figuratively – and . which total more than 260. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. For more information. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. which dates to 1906. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. ore bins. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. with Hawthorne the new seat. As this is being written. including a map room. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. A library.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. which helped put the state on the map. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. power plants. In 1911. are available by special request. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne.
Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. Admission is free. To see where it all started. wildlife and fossils. however. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. fire and railroad equipment. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. the town boasted 1. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. a combination truck stop. To reach Candelaria. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. is nearby Walker Lake. paved road on the right. Nevada seat and the Mono . At the zenith of its existence. noon to 4 PM in winter. cameras and photography. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. % 702-945-3266. % 702-945-5142. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne.) Before heading to the lake. The Mineral County Museum. (See On Water. just three miles from the California border. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. restaurant and Native American gift shop. Victorian furniture. rocks. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. The museum is open Monday through Friday. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split.000 residents. 898 E Street. and by 1890 the good times were over. minerals. below.500 people. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era.000. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. Near the northern tip of the lake. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. at the corner of 10th and D streets. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. The main attraction. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. Take this road six miles to the town. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
Boats are not recommended. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. There are 42 campsites. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. All of them offer overnight camping. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. native plants and unique rock formations. For information on any or all. below). The park.200 feet. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. along with many other events. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. % 702-728-4467. located in a long. The 2. set at 5. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. pinyon and juniper forests. but travel is not advised during winter months. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. From .200 acres come complete with deep canyons. From Caliente.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. is open year-round.
Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. men in black and all things conspiratorial. All told. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. true believers theorize. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years.000. Packed with historic points of interest. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. From Caliente. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. government cover-ups. % 702-962-5215. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. There are 37 campsites. The original building costs totaled $16. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. Winter travelers might also find snow here. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. for a walking/driving tour map. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. hazy afternoon.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . they ran up to $1 million.
The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. If you’re in the neighborhood. The park is open all year. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. including the old mill. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. % 702-729-2515. a thought scarier than any little green men. selling souvenirs and literature. sleeping quarters. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. or fish lizards. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. Ichthyosaurs. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . a bar and cemetery. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954.
Interpretive tours are held in March. The trail climbs nearly 2. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. April. elk. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. through Gabbs. up through the sparse forest of . turn right. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. to NV 884. deer. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. mountain lion. For more information.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. August. June. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. The hike begins on the road. Located in the relatively dry. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. following a stream into Trail Canyon. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. October and November. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. the highest point in Nevada at 13. There are numerous access points to the 115. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border.140 feet. The trail seems faint at times. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale.000 feet in 3½ miles. From here go seven miles to a junction. July.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. where desert bighorn sheep. Return the way you came. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. then half a mile east. call % 702-867-3001. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. travel west six miles to NV 773. To reach the park from Hawthorne. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. From here.
About 500 yards beyond the mill. limber pine. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. About a mile and a half later. too. and at higher elevations. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. The 38. up and up alongside the South Twin River.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. . reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. the trail gains 1. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. The main trail leads straight ahead. USGS quads for Carvers NW. The path descends further.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. Pine Creek. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. pinyon pine and juniper. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. where it crosses the water several times. see the Pony Express Territory chapter.361-foot Arc Dome. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. Consult Toms Canyon. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. another narrow. nine miles from the trailhead.020-foot Peavine Peak. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11.
The summit trail. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. From Tonopah. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. literally and figuratively. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. After turning west. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful.000 years ago. In fact. . which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. which marks the way to Pine Creek. going west. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. is imposing Mount Jefferson. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. 11. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. The high point. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. which tops out at 11. is lined with aspen and birch. mountain lion. deer and coyote.949 feet above sea level. south. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. It was used as a hunting camp 5. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. Return the way you came. Turn left and head toward the highest point.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit.
a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. rugged country. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . set aside in 1989. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. Hikers should have maps and a compass. As you’ll see. The 98. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. From the trailhead. and the skills to use them. This is remote. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. Elk. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. To complete a nice loop hike. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. The trail first splits at mile three. The main trail continues straight ahead. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. so travel with care.856foot Monitor Peak. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. climbing up the creek drainage. with Dry Lake off to the west.000 acres. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek.
some will lead hikes and photography trips. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. crosses the water and begins a steep. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. then descending into Ash Canyon. in Echo Canyon State Park. Enjoy the views. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. then continue south two miles back to the campground. Also close by. refer to Michael C. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. 1997. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. Meanwhile. Wilderness Press. % 702-4826286. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. White’s masterful book. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. . Once atop the plateau. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again.
turn left and head due south. Berg. Just beyond the right-of-way. Moapa Adam R. PO Box 1149. Lund Gary Luisetti. % 702-482-6258. PO Box 428. The road turns east briefly. climbing into a small valley. unmarked hike to the summit. . 89447. James S. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. PO Box 168. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. 8½ miles from US 95. then continues south to a junction. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. Stahl. Mason Valley Guide Service. % 702-465-2598. Jr. Box 77206. 89045. % 702-482-6422. Nicholas Perchetti. % 702-964-1207. Mustang Outfitters. 89045. which. 89430. Round Mountain William A. Lewis. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. Expeditions Unlimited. 27 Smith Gage Road. Yerington Marty S. % 702-964-2145.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R.108 feet.. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. % 702-463-4497. Smith. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. Howard. at 9. % 702-283-7797. PO Box 65. leaving a strenuous. Roy Lerg. 89025. HCR 60. Timberline Outfitters. 89049. 89317. PO Box 162. PO Box 725.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. Timberline Outfitters. Grand Slam Safaris. you’ve gone too far. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. 89049. Galvin. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. (If you pass Millers.
known for abundant wildlife. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. Belmont saw most of the 2. A few dozen people still live in the area. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. and Pine Creek. The Belmont Saloon. Continuing north. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. Manhattan boomed. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce.000 to construct in 1876. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. so keep your distance. For road conditions. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. however. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. Just north of Pine Creek. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. % 702377-2490. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. is open for business on weekends. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. which was first settled in the 1860s. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. % 702-482-6331. The other ruins are on private property. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914.
From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. Wilson National Back Country Byway. to establish missions. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. As tempting as a bath might seem. Not only is the water very hot. but check on road conditions before you go. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. Pioneer Territory Mt. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. The springs are half a mile away. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. Continuing north. then part of Utah Territory. % 702-482-7800. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. Take an unpaved road . Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. mountain mahogany and aspen. the fauna changes to ponderosa. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. For more information contact the BLM. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. . where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045.2 mile west of Lockes going south. stay out. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. From Pioche. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. As the scenery becomes more dramatic.
where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. % 702727-4504. brown. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. 13. contact the BLM. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. Two of the best spots are Peavine .140-foot Boundary Peak. % 702289-4865. % 702-727-8276. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. Information Sources For more information and a map. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. cutthroat and rainbow trout. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. At Oakridge Landing. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. 5340 South Oakridge Road. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. Just a mile north of Dyer.
with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). . the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. In fact. % 702-482-6286. picnic facilities and boat ramp. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. however. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land.000 acres. rainbow and brown trout. Fishing derbies are held in February. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. Beginning at the southern end of the lake.7 miles north of Hawthorne). The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. Covering 37. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. October and November. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. April. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. The lake is named for Joe Walker. After the road peters out.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range.4 miles). The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons.
Bishop. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. % 760-872-2533 . 633 Schley Street. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. Boaters are welcome.000 acres. while Canada geese. Contact the refuge office. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Brown trout. which are stocked in spring and fall. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation).192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. % 702-725-3417. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. % 702-394-4040. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. CA. 93514. for details. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. but motors are prohibited. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. NV 89415. Hawthorne. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. Kathleen L. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. are the main attraction here. about 13 miles south of the confluence. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. write the group at PO Box 867. largemouth bass and white crappie. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Howe. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Classic Anglers.
Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. PO Box 1149. % 702-482-6422. % 702-3721717. at least temporarily. 89049. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. The big enchilada is Saddle West. Advance reservations are highly suggested. PO Box 65. Tonopah Stanley R. 1220 South Highway 160. % 702-964-2145. 89045. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-482-6258. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. PO Box 725. 89447. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Howard. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. Galvin. Stahl. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . Suite 9B.. PO Box 168. HCR 60. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. Jr. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. Timberline Outfitters. 89049. Berg. % 702-889-8844. Box 77206. Timberline Outfitters. % 702-964-1207. 89104. 89045. home on the range. Mason Valley Guide Service. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. The family-style outings. Mustang Outfitters. James S. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Nicholas Perchetti.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S.
a restaurant. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. hair salon. % 702553-2912. non-smoking rooms and a pool. % 702-727-5445. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. $-$$. % 800-508-9493. $. including a heated pool. which has 30 rooms and a pool. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. $-$$. $-$$. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. Highway 160 at Loop Road. $-$$. a casino with live 21. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. lounge. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. Don’t worry. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. % 702-553-2250. while the inn offers laundry services. US 95 at First Street. . and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. $-$$. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. % 702-553-2225. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. % 702-727-5100. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. In short. $-$$. though. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. 420 West Main Street. $-$$. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. along with a pool and honeymoon room. a convenience store. was built in 1905. $-$$. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. % 702-4853431. There are 60 rooms. casino and lounge. 604 Main Street. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. $. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. A lounge with live entertainment. The other two motels are the El Portal. % 702-553-2333. has 32 rooms. The Exchange Club Motel. 1201 South Highway 160. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. 9000 North 5th Avenue. With 110 rooms.
free movies and is close to the convention center. workout equipment. $. $. location. Even dogs are welcome. 100 South Main Street. 700 Main Street. % 702482-5920. % 702-482-6238. 826 Main Street. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. and the sprawling Station House. a casino. $. with 40 rooms. 100 North Main Street.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. % 702-945-2444. has 39 rooms. a heated pool and a small play area. $. Location. This place has it all: 75 rooms. with a restaurant. % 702-482-9777. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. 323 Main Street. at very reasonable rates. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. $$. and the 33-room Clown Motel. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. It has 94 rooms. % 702-945-2660. The Jim Butler Motel. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. % 702-482-6291. 1402 5th Street. $. Dating back to 1908. lounge. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. RV hookups. including four two-bedroom units. $$. $. % 702-482-3511. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. which has 93 rooms. $-$$. 255 Main Street. a casino. There are 103 rooms. $. Adjacent to Walker Lake. lounge with entertainment. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. comes highly rated. arcade and laundry. $. 1 Cliff House Road. The . restaurants. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. has been catering to travelers since 1943. also has a pool. 521 North Main Street. 1301 5th Street. If you’re into chains. a Jacuzzi and a pool. pool and free in-room coffee. 1100 Main Street. Just a block away. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. % 702-945-3321. % 702-482-6224. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. RV parking and free continental breakfast. $. % 702-482-3577. % 702-482-6202. a restaurant and bar. 540 F Street. two restaurants. a restaurant and free coffee. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. Some of the larger. % 702-945-3352. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. The Best Western Desert Lodge. the Butler has 25 rooms.
fitness center and live music. $$-$$$. a pool and a hot tub. 694 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-2544. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. $$-$$$. % 702-945-2143. with blueprints for hundreds more. % 702-463-2481. movie theater and kids’ play area. $-$$. a 925-seat showroom. various restaurants. 301 Mesa Boulevard. The Casa Blanca. 720 Sierra Highway. $. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. formerly Players Island. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. $$. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. To find a quieter environment. a golf course.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. % 702-465-2341.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. pool. a pair of family-style restaurants. including dozens of suites. pool and spa.900 or so residents. % 702-346-7444. $-$$$. has five rooms. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. $-$$. with a 24-hour casino. Jacuzzi. RV park and four bungalows. % 800-621-0187. a lounge.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. . % 800-896-4567. % 702-463-2991. 965 Sierra Highway. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. pool. $. % 702-945-3316. % 702-465-2959. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. bowling alley. $-$$. 390 North Sandhill Road. and the Rocket. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. which at last count had 1. has 67 rooms. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. which has 14 rooms. % 702-465-2573. pool and movie theater. Run by the Masini family. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. bars. Jacuzzi. which has 14 rooms. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. 2827 Highway 208. Jacuzzi. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. the Hawthorne. 39 North Center Street. % 800-346-4611. $. airport shuttle. restaurants. $. live entertainment. a pool. golf course. % 800-346-7721. which has two non-smoking rooms. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. tennis courts. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. $$. has 700 rooms. % 702-945-2573. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. family fun center and an airport shuttle. $$. on the corner of 5th and J streets. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. $-$$. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. 11 North Main Street. entertainment. $$-$$$. % 702-463-2998. Just west of Smith in Wellington. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite.
100 West Stagecoach Road. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. also have full-service restaurants. % 702-727-7300. which has 22 rooms. % 702-751-7777. $. 601 South Highway 160. At Saddle West Casino. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. . Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. % 702-9625404. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. 1220 South Highway 160. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. % 702-727-2404. $. $. 450 Front Street. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. % 702-726-3106. % 702-962-5551. which has five rooms. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. Rose Garden. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. and welcomes pets. pharmacy and bank. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. and the buffet starts at $2. $-$$. 100 LaCour Street. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. $-$$. Flying saucer parking is out back. % 702-729-2515. % 702-727-6440. No fast food. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. % 702726-3777. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. has 13 rooms.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. % 702-727-7777. a restaurant and bar. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel.99. % 702-727-0909. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. $. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. the Silver Spur. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. Stagestop Casino. 884 A Street. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. Besides. is open 24 hours a day. % 702-726-3291.
% 702-945-3321. 923 5th Street. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. % 702-463-2481. % 702-553-2368. % 702-945-5253. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. 570 E Street. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. % 702-482-6202. The .95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. fill the menu. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. The Exchange Club. including excellent seafood. 348 North Main Street. open until 9 PM. 785 E Street. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. % 702-945-2727. 100 North Main Street. % 800508-9493. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. 540 F Street. % 702-945-3908. is the home of two restaurants. you could do worse than El Marques. 501 I Street.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. also have family-style restaurants. % 702-553-2111. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. 1291 5th Street. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. % 702-4823885. % 702-945-3320. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. Traditional American and Continental fare. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. 11 North Main Street. Maggies. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. % 702-5532225. try Happy Buddha. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. Yerington Casino West. and Burro Inn. 1100 Main Street. % 702482-9777. also has a 24-hour café. % 702-9452994. % 702-945-1700. has a great $7. The Station House.
serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. satisfying and never-ending. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. Peavine Campground is set at 6. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. There’s even an indoor workout facility. 702-726-3138. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. has a 24-hour coffee shop. 11 North ALT 95. Carl’s Burgers. 111 Highway 208. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. Dini’s Luck Club. 45 North Main Street. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. lunch and dinner. % 800-346-7721. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. is like a blast from the 50s. serves breakfast. % 800-896-4567. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. The Virgin River Hotel. To reach the campground from Tonopah. % 702463-2868. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. % 702-4623300. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of .Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. % 702-727-2314. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. The Mason Valley Country Club. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. which serves breakfast. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. % 702-7263194. 2281 West Scales Way. % 702-4633707. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. % 702-463-2054. % 800-621-0187. Two blocks up. along with the usual buffet. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. The Casa Blanca.
There are 11 sites set at 6.100foot level. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. % 702-945-3373. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. The campground is another three miles away. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. For directions. offers sites for $11 per night. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast.700 feet. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. From here. To reach the campground from Tonopah. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. the unpaved road goes south briefly. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. There is no running water and no fee. . % 702-4826286.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. To reach the campground from Tonopah. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. see On Foot. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. For information. through Belmont. % 702-687-6100. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary.800 feet in the Monitor Range. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. above. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. From Tonopah. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. contact the BLM. providing access to fishing and hiking.
The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. They are listed in alphabetical order. Noonday Press. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Henry Holt and Company. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. American Automobile Association. Frank Amato Publications. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. 1990. 1993. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. 1996. Moon Publishing. DeLorme. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. 1997. 1997. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. David Communications. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. published by the State of Nevada. 1995. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. 1995. American Automobile Association. 1998. Falcon Press Publishing. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Falcon Press Publishing. Basin and Range by John McPhee. 1993. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. Suggested Reading . 1994.
Mojave Books. 1997. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Jr. La Siesta Press. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Wilderness Press. 1993. 1997. Maturi. Stolley. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. . 1995. American & Geographic World Publishing. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. 1997. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. Bischoff. 1992. White. Clark. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. Falcon Press Publishing.. Legend and Description by David J. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. The Globe Pequot Press.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. 1969. Falcon Press Publishing. Gem Guides Book Company. 1993.
120-123. events. 200 Basque people. hiking. 48-49. 198. 102. 46. 142. 198. 200 altitude sickness. 179. 174-175 Austin. 10-12. 41-43. 2. 163-164. see transportation Carson City. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. events. 123. 15-16. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. camping. Pioneer territory. safety rules. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 117-118. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 131. touring. 35. camping. 132-133. special events. 115. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 124 auto racing. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 168-169. 86. 89. pictographs art galleries. 117. 67-70. biking. 182-183. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. hiking outfit- Index . see transportation air tours. 104-107. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 187-190. fishing. 142. restaurants. 78 BLM. restaurants. wild. 118. Pony Express territory. 103. 8386. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 15-16. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. specific towns airlines. Las Vegas territory. 194. 197. 193. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. Las Vegas area. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. touring. camping. 144 Beatty: accommodations. camping. 50-52. price scale. 169-170 Anasazi people. Elko. see water sports car rental. 183-184. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 75-76. 29. 119-120. 3135. 152. 146. 144 backpacking. 27. see also petroglyphs. 154 animal life. 78. 13. 174 canoeing. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Reno-Tahoe area. 144. 193 Aurora. Pioneer territory. Reno-Tahoe area. transportation. 152. restaurants. Pioneer territory. 26-27 buses. accommodations. accommodations. 43-44. 76. 117-119. touring. 184. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 137 Candelaria. 28. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 49. Reno-Tahoe area. safety rules. camping. 27 books. Las Vegas. 199-201. Pony Express territory. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 15-16 bird watching. skydiving. 132. Cottonwood Valley. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 67 bowling. 38. 36. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 17. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 13-15. see also camping. 104. 94-95. 135. 118. 42 burros. Lovelock Indian Cave. 186 Belmont. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 92-96. 194. Ichthyosaur State Park. 164. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 187-190. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. Leonard Rock Shelter.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. 126. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. wagon trips. 121. biking. 77. restaurants. 169. 32. 156160. 54-55. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. touring. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. horseback riding. 85. 185. 113. 129-130 bungee jumping. see also zoos. 17. 181-182. 187-188 biking. 125-128. 144. 91 Barley Creek. fishing. 193-197. 10. 182. outfitters. biking. Pony Express territory. festivals. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 115-116 ballooning. Mount Jefferson. 179.183. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 155 boating. hiking. 199. Bonneville Salt Flats.
176 ghost towns: Aurora. 152-155. 155-156. 152. Reno-Tahoe territory. camping. Pyramid Lake Fishway. touring. fishing. 117. 37-41. outfitters. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. Lake Tahoe area. Cowboy country. 67. 157-158. 97. 35-36. 65 gambling. Toquima Cave. Camp Winfield Scott. 73. 22. auto racing. 80. 153 Chimney Springs. 74 Death Valley National Park. 40. 167. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. Treasure City. 194-195. 75. camping. 124. 12. 182. 185. 131. 177. accommodations. hiking. 88. 102-104. special events. pupfish. 75. 160 Goshute Mountains. 118. 111. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 200 Cowboy Country. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 4. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. fishing. springfish. 138-139. 109. Pony Express territory. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. Northumberland Cave. touring. 44-48. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 150-151. 70-71. fishing. outfitters. Reno-Tahoe area. 125. 116. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area.5 Cathedral Gorge. biking. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 4-5 Gardnerville. 179. fishing. 188-189 Clemens. see events fish. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 168. accommodations. skiing. 170. mercury warnings. 46 Comstock Lode. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 83. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 172 golf. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. Shermantown. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 137. safety rules. 179. restaurants. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 192. restaurants. 143. 163-164. touring. Eberhardt. 29. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 125. 127. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. camping. 126-127. 125. Lehman Caves. 190-193. transportation. 43-44. touring. camping. 13-15. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 170. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 119. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. hiking. Pioneer territory. 174-175. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 106. 186 elk. Hamilton. Lovelock Indian Cave. Las Vegas area. 120-121. 144. 120. 74. 78 casinos. 86. Samuel. Las Vegas territory. 179. 126. 179. 15-16 Fremont. 119-120. 89. 180 Earth Connections. 14 Colorado River. restaurants. 190 . camping. 109 Glacier Trail. camping. 112 Genoa. 98. 139. 171. accommodations. 147-148 Eberhardt. John C. 178. 112. 109. 137. horseback riding. 15-16. 132-133. Dunn Hatchery. 176. Rhyolite. 17. hiking. 100. Las Vegas area. 3. Midas. 6-7 ters. 134-135. 109. 170-171 Denio Junction. 188-189 fishing. 82. hiking outfitters. restaurants. sport-climbing ratings. 142 Great Basin.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations.. 139 cruises. 187-190. 171-172 Gold Point. 161-162. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 177. 98 fossils. 155. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 121-122. 175 climate. events. 12. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 77. 106 diving. Gold Center. 122-123. outfitters. 110. 108 events: Cowboy country. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 184. outfitters. 137. Jungo. 185. 149-150. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 174. Rochester Mining District. restaurants. Candelaria. 139140 Ely. Metropolis. 112. 18-19 climbing. 119. 142. 137. 70. 169. 121. touring. 116-117. 87 Dayton. Pioneer territory. camping. 79. 176. camping. 115 Gold Center. 143-144.
159. 149. 46. 39 history: Cowboy country. 160. 43. 188-189. 111. 165-167. description of. touring. 36. 106. Walley’s Hot Springs. 181-187. 37-41. 158. hiking. restaurants. 125. 66. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. hiking outfitters. boating outfitters. camping. 132 Lexington Arch. special events. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 40-41. 151. 146. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 110-112. 45. 86. transportation. 117 hotels. touring. 1-6 Hoover Dam. Reno-Tahoe territory. hiking. Pony Express territory. Cowboy country. 176. map. 118. Pioneer territory. 91-92. camping. 57-58. 152. 127. restaurants. 107. 141-142. restaurants. touring. camping. 21-22. camping. skiing. 28. 164. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 130. 54. 83. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 101. 49-50. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. skiing. hiking. Pioneer territory. Pioneer territory. 198. hiking outfitters. touring and transportation. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 129-131. biking. 47. 186-187. 23-29. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 150. 65. 156. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 148-149 jeep tours. Pony Express territory. 166. 99-100. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 162. 195-196.Index Great Basin National Park. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. touring. 46. 32-33. 193. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. fishing. Las Vegas area. restaurants. 187 Manhattan. 1. hiking. Reno. camping. 41. 32 horseback riding. Pony Express territory. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 80-81 hiking. 93. 82. events. 64. Las Vegas. 88. camping. Las Vegas territory. 32-33 Lake Mohave. 46. touring. transportation. 102. 57. 38. 153. Midas Hot Spring. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 48-49. touring. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. camping. 77. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 24. 112-117. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. see air tours Hemenway Park. 90. 78. RenoTahoe territory. 145-150. 3536. state. 150. snow sports outfitters. 83. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. outfitters. 31-35. water sports. 47 lakes. fishing. 37-40. 149-150. 63-66. accommodations. transportation. Reno-Tahoe territory. touring. 120 Incline Village. 52-53. 148-149 Humboldt River. 103 Hamilton. outfitters. restaurants. 140-141 land. 118 Lone Mountain. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 20. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. biking. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 177 mercury warnings. 79. 116-117. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 44 Las Vegas territory. 39. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 75. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 48. 40. restaurants. Las Vegas territory. balloning and soaring. 82. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. air tours. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 4WD trail. 98. 163. 192. 13-15. 179 Kingston. 91 information sources. 83-84. 29-31. events. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 62. 200-201. 60. 64. 50-52. camping. 90 helicopter tours. outfitters. 137 kayaking. Kyle Hot Spring. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 119 Index . 53-54. 41-43. 78-79 Jungo. watersports. 55. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 162. horseback riding. Nevada.
accommodations. 23. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 139. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 70-71 mines and mining. 68. 180 Minden: events. 43. 170. 173. 103. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 4. 171. 126. 8. 188. 177. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. skiing and snowboarding. 77. Lost City Museum. 175. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. Nevada State Mu- . 26. 2. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. hiking. Nevada Historical Society. 26. 25. Keck Minerals Museum. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 83. 142. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 165 nuclear waste. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. outfitters. 174. 72-73. 4. Roberts House Museum. 196197. 174. 189-190 Muir. 34. 69. 69. Piper’s Opera House. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 108. 175. 32. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 78. 73. 199-200. 68. 134 petroglyphs. horseback riding. White Pine Public Museum. 139. touring. Clark County Heritage Museum. 68. restaurants. 135136. 173. 10. 61. 153. 26. Capitol Building and Museum. 177. 73. 158. 25. Central Nevada Museum. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 107. 102. Humbolt Museum. 135. 69. 133. see biking mountain biking. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. camping. Liberace Museum. 167-168 Paiutes. Mineral County Museum. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 79. 200. camping. 163. 153 Northumberland Cave. 98. Guinness World of Records Museum. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. Beam Fine Art Gallery. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum.206 n Index seum. 25. 33. Colorado River Museum. Fleischmann Planetarium. The Castle. 34. 73. 109. 25. 73. 25. 142 Midas. 61 music and theater. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. Lyon County Muserum. Nevada State Library & Archives. 109-110. 29. 2. 165. see biking Mount Charleston. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 181 Moapa. Marshall Mint Museum. 69. 200 motels. John. 61. 34. 29 Mount Jefferson. 23 Overton: touring. 71. 73. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. restaurants. 197-198. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. National Automobile Museum. 187 Mojave Desert. The Way It Was Museum. 107. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. Las Vegas Art Museum. 61. 75. 61. Brewery Arts Center. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 11 Mosquito Creek. 71. Stewart Indian Museum. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. Mark Twain Museum. Desert Valley Museum. 183. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 71. 70. 174. touring. 173. fishing. May Museum and Arboretum. 80-81 Native American festivals. 69. 31. hiking outfitters. 43. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 106 nuclear testing. 35. 171. touring. fishing. 178. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 91. 34. 177. 3-4. hiking. 199 Metropolis. 26. Bonneville Speedway Museum. fishing. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 193-194. Wilbur D. Marzen House Museum. 127 pictographs. see accommodations motorcycles. Virginia & Truckee Depot. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 86. 8182 Mesquite. 67. 199. Western Folklife Center. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 25-26. Genoa Courthouse Museum. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 72. 2.
98.” 4 silver. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 76. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 190. 134. 89-91 skydiving. 143. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 180. 79-80. 104. 9-10. 17. climbing and hiking. 197-199. 198. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 197 rafting. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 92-93. 94 special events. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 87. 78. 98. 173 Index . see mines and mining skiing. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. skiing. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 193. RenoTahoe area. 26-27. 167. restaurants. horse. 143 Rachel. 90 sport climbing. fishing. 129-130. accommodations. 82. 53-54. 180 Pioneer territory. 74 races. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 123-125. 153 Sparks. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 13 Price Lakes. see events Round House Art Gallery. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 144. camping. 78. 9 Sand Mountain. 179 Searchlight. 42. 49-50. 156. 54. hiking. 163. 66. 77. 197. 146. 165-201 plant life. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 17. Reno-Tahoe area. 84-85 swimming. camping. 117. 85. fishing. Las Vegas territory. restaurants. 83-84. 88 Star Peak: hiking. see also specific towns Rhyolite. see climbing springfish. hiking. 76. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 17. 89. motorcycle. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. biking. 106 Siegel. 138 rock climbing. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 144. 54. water sports. 88. 96-97. fishing. 113. touring. Las Vegas area. 146-147. 163-164. 79. 48-49 snowboarding. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 77-78. 163. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail.Index Pioche: accommodations. biking. 109 Shoshone people. 106 Spooner Lake. 93-94. 160-163. see climbing rock hunting. 179. 181. 112. outfitters. 76. 144. 84. camping. 200 temperature chart. touring. fishing. 145-146 prostitution. Pony Express territory. touring. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). bike. 193. 185-186. 114-115 theater. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. Pioneer territory. 154. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 17. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. touring. 142. special events. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 52 pupfish. 195. 90 soaring. hiking. accommodations. 80 pronghorn antelope. fishing. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. hiking. camping. transportation. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. skiing. Benjamin “Bugsy. 36. 150-151. 65 Pony Express territory. biking. 186-187. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). restaurants. 88 Shermantown. 187. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. hiking and climbing. snow sports outfitters. see skiing snowmobiling. 115. 176 rodeos. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 170 rivers. 169 Pyramid Lake. 12. 91. 59-61. auto. see events price codes. 9697. camping.
restaurants. wildlife and bird watching. 106 trains. Table Mountain Wilderness. touring. 147-148. 31. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 172. see plant life tufas. 35. camping. 117. outfitters. 151 Wovoka. 97. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. camping. 73. 33. 76. 61. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 38. 199. Echo Canyon State Park. 110. 163. buses. 188-189. Pioneer territory. restaurants. Cleve Creek Campground. 75. 117 Toquima Cave. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 160-161. hiking outfitters. restaurants. touring. 29-30. touring. 193. 67. 149. 176 Yerington: accommodations. Reno-Tahoe territory. 151 Wilson Canyon. Hemenway Park. 98. hiking. 174 walking. 174. 112. 167. 191-192. hiking. special events. 156-157. 86 Wells: accommodations. 155 . 143. 25 Topaz Lake. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 182-183. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 62. Mark. 150. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 145-146. 41. 163-164. 127. 44-48. touring. Winnemucca. 68. Arc Dome Wilderness. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 71. 111. 134 Twain. camping. 191 UFOs. Pioneer territory. water sports. 159-160. 62. Oxbow Nature Study Area. restaurants. fishing. Ruby Marsh. touring. 157. 30-31. Las Vegas territory. Wilson Canyon. 193 Walker Lake. 95. 164. horseback riding. 85. 39 vineyards. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 29. Amtrak. 89. 155. 79-80. 77-78. climbing and hiking. 34-35. 176 wineries. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 177. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 192. 80-81. Walker Lake. outfitters. 155. 187. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 144. see transportation transportation: airports. rental cars. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 162. 159. 200-201. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 135-137. 152-155. 62. hiking outfitters. 119-120. 26-27. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. Earth Connections. 127. fishing. 45. 109 trees. events. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 66. 190-193. 143. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 20. hiking. 196. camping. Lake Mead. Santa Rosa Mountains. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. events. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 80. Pony Express territory. outfitters. 83. 102. 139-140 Treasure City. 176. 185. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. camping. Jack’s Valley Road. restaurants. events. camping. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 150. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 168-169. High Rock Canyon. 32. 168 zoos. 146. 104. 179. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 178. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 31. 139. 144. Goshute Mountains. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. touring. 153-154. 55. 71-74 Virgin River. Ruby Mountains. 183-184. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center.
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