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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
come for one thing only: Las Vegas. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. which covers most of Nevada. In fact.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. horses. For anyone who loves the outdoors. that’s good news. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. In fact. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. you can have the whole wild. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s.500 and 10. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. half-pound hot dogs. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. These mammoths. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. According to author John Hart. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. you’ll know better. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. pausing on . giant sloths. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. bison. About 27 million of them. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. Among the 50 states. as the top tourism destination in the US. Florida. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself.” and for good reason. however.
shells. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. the first European entered Nevada. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. Exactly 50 years later.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. His party wintered in California. however. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. In the 12th century. Many prime archeological sites. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. . Jedediah Smith. fish hooks. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. wetlands and springs. hand tools. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. established trade routes. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. In 1776. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. including southern Nevada. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. The Northern Paiutes. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. followed in Garces’ footsteps. In the south. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. By about 500 AD. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. points. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC.
In 1830. swelling the population well into five figures. encountering Pyramid Lake. and. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. Introduction . In 1859. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. Nevada became a state on Halloween. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. The idea didn’t fly in Washington.History n 3 In the north. camping at Las Vegas. the church established the State of Deseret. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. Eight years later the first wagon train. The Comstock Lode. then returned east along the route the next year. covering most of Utah and Nevada. but the Utah Territory government. In 1843 and ’44. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. as it came to be called. and headed over the Sierras. Fremont. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. dominated by the church. continued to oversee Nevada. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. John C. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. with Brigham Young as governor. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. who would later become a war hero. which helped open the gateway to the West. the Mormons were the first white residents. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). was dispatched to map the area. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. In 1833. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. but abandoned it two years later. 1864. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. DC. By 1857. In 1845. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. In 1849.
4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. Then in 1966. signed a treaty with the federal government. commerce and industry. Warriors under Numaga. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. was struck in Virginia City. was of a classy. opened in 1950. Ironically. son of Winnemucca. In 1855. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. later known as the Nevada Test Site. In 1874. killed two-thirds of them. chief of the Northern Paiutes. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. however. Siegel’s vision. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. then picked up again in the early 1900s. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. In 1873. In the teens and ’20s. Winnemucca. Streets were laid out. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. bringing town sites. the Flamingo soon reopened. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. the Big Bonanza. Meanwhile. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. particularly in southern Nevada. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. then underground tests for 30 more. Howard Hughes sud- . A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. upscale Vegas. but was ambushed.000 people in 1960. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. Carson City. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. In 1860. the first true hotel-casino. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. Reno and the surrounding areas. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. began making money and the boom was on. violence escalated. the mother of all lodes.
miners. are reaping the windfall. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. a land dominated by a mobile population. trappers. Winnemucca. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. This time. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. But the explosion has not been without fallout. today there are master-planned communities. moving to the region in record numbers. To many. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. . working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. By 1970. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. find enough water. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. places like Elko. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. The entire West will be watching what transpires. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. and Americans have become moths to the flame. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. How much is too much. however. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. Mom and their 2.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. DC. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. Fallon and Mesquite.
In fact. Named by explorer John C. Depending on who’s counting. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. and so on. dry. then disappear into their respective “sinks. reservoirs and other watery bodies. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. down a range.000 feet to nearly 12. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. gurgle through the northern part of the state. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. Nevada even has its own 10. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. with nine ranges topping 11. In the north. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah.063 feet. lakes. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. Fremont in 1844. down another range.000 feet. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. Here. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. 13. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. then up another range. On the other side of the state. The Colorado River . across a sagebrush-covered basin. towers over Great Basin National Park. Near Las Vegas. The roof of Nevada is 13. Yes. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. Get the idea? After all. hills and uplands. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. Wheeler Peak. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. The notion of Nevada as a flat. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. the Carson and the Humboldt.000 feet in the space of a few miles. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California.839foot Matterhorn.
in the remote north near Jarbidge.500 square miles of western Nevada. most notably Lake Tahoe. only 65. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. Lower and drier. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. In 1989. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada.000 acres. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. natural sources of running water. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. In the 1970s. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River.000 years ago covered 8. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. the southeastern corner of Nevada.000-acre Great Basin National Park.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. the largest alpine lake in North America. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. establishing 77. a great inland sea that 50. it’s an uphill climb all the way. For the greens. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. are the only reliable. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. which empty into Lake Mead from the north.
Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. with its tiny. At elevations above 6. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. In the wetter western Nevada ranges.000 feet. Apart from aspens. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. The recommendations have been under review for years. greasewood.000 feet above sea level. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. Death Valley. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. 14 national recreation areas. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. the soil supports . horsebrush and shadescale. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. such as rabbitbrush. The squat Utah juniper. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. is generally found throughout the state between 5. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). Still.000 and 8.
biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. lodgepole pine. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. or jimson weed. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state.000 feet. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. however. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. willow and dogwood. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. The rare. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. Above the desert floor. bristlecone pine. The king of Great Basin vegetation. Black bears. At the other extreme. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. blooms by night here. hallucinogenic sacred datura. which is actually a type of yucca. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. the mountain lion. the official state grass. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. which make up just 1% of the land. The Joshua tree.000 years. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. Washoe pine. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . up to 5. along with alder. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. ponderosa pine. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. In the mountains. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. western white pine. hedgehog and barrel. prickly pear. creosote bush has an oily.
the black widow and brown recluse. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. coyote. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. rainbow. greater roadrunner. Snakes include several types of rattlers. America’s two poisonous spiders. Meanwhile. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. chuckwalla. beaver. Gambel’s quail. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. while mule deer are abundant. brook. burrowing owl and canyon wren. Ironically. seen on Nevada’s license plates. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. kangaroo rats. brown. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. golden and Dolly Varden . The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. Blacktail jackrabbits. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. badger. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. help comes from hunters. prairie falcon. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. fox.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. weasel. redtailed hawk. skunk. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. with Lahontan cutthroat. The desert bighorn sheep. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. pika. also live in the Mojave. In the air over the desert. Trout are the favorite of anglers.
After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. covering its history. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. on land. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. Reno-Tahoe Territory. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. such as visitors bureaus. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Along with detailed information on where to go. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. culture and most attractive features. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. broken down by specific locales.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. A section on Touring follows. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . on water. like almost every other Nevada visitor. This section also includes sources for expert information. on snow and in the air. Cowboy Country.
. Hiking. With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . Backpacking. . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . . . . . $100 to $175 $$$$ . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . . . . . . . . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . .12 n Introduction ing chart. . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . so use these symbols only as a general reference. trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . . . . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . Trails may be gone. . Finally. . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. $50 to $100 $$$ . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. forethought and patience. . . Up to $50 per day $$ . . . .
Boulder hopping. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly.0 to .Adventures n 13 Finally. the most popular among serious rock climbers.Climbing.14 (and sometimes beyond). As this guide goes to press. using the hands.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . so help is usually a long way away.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . the lower numbers (.0 to .Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 . known as the Yosemite Decimal System. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . occasionally using hands Class 4 . Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. Class 2 . Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. ranging from . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. For Class 5 routes. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb.Easy hiking. . although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.
Give them descriptions of yourself.10. clothing. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. until all holds disappear at . In the arid country of Nevada. climbers enter the realm of myth. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. Be aware of conditions. Always take fresh water with you. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. legend. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. climbing partners. use common sense before you get into trouble. Assistance can take hours or days. Beyond that. If the plan changes. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. dehydration and lightning. Storms are more common in the afternoon. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. Begin hiking early in the day. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. Don’t travel alone. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. By their nature. As with all outdoor activities. Pack spare everything – food. n n n n n . not hard-and-fast rules. taking into account personal experience. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. then amended by subsequent climbers. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle.
water and fluids.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. preferably one with a large gas tank. Not one of those trendy. extra gas. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. Arizona. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. high-clearance job. . four-wheel-drive vehicle. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. tools. but a powerful. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. spare belts. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. jack.
tips and maps to the latest hot single track. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. For more information on desert survival. when you left and where you are headed. Mountain biking in Nevada. drink it as needed. contact DARES. left out of popular literature. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. minimize talking and eating. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. n If you find a traveled road. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. however. .16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. PO Box 39340. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. stay on it. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. The rest of Nevada. 85096. n If water is in limited supply. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. AZ. stay put. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. n If you have water. Phoenix. of course. leave a note telling searchers who you are. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. is more popular than ever. in wilderness areas). Do not ration water.
snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Many streams. there are all types of sky-high adventures. but take extra care. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Skydiving. the gem of the Sierras. Fishing. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. and gigantic Lake Mead. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Meanwhile. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. At these higher elevations. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. Ballooning. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. Soaring Where there is Vegas. n In The Air Scenic Flights. there are tourists. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. And where there are tourists. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. lakes and reservoirs. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert.
but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. Leave the high altitudes as well. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. . Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. Laughlin. Flashfloods are the predictable result. throwing rain. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. get out of lowlying areas. These storms are known to appear with little warning. Summer and early fall can be blistering. In the Great Basin. temperatures above 110° are common. but despite the obvious danger. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. For those who like to watch. If thunderstorms threaten. although they can occur at any time of year. on the Colorado River. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year.
1100 Valley Road. Ogden. NV 89311. Nevada Division of State Parks. For information on specific locales. UT. Intermountain Region. windy. Baker. . NV 89710. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. www. % 702-687-4219. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. % 702-785-6500. 84401. In the north. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. Great Basin National Park. Capitol Complex.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. too. Bureau of Land Management. Carson City. NV 89703. In southern Nevada. Reno. % 702-688-1500. 1263 South Stewart Street. NV 89520. Carson City. Nevada Commission on Tourism. NV 89712. % 702-687-4384. US Forest Service. 1300 South Curry Street. Nevada Division of Wildlife. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months.com. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information.travelnevada. Carson City. NV 89502. In the mountains. 324 25th Street. rainy and occasionally snowy. 850 Harvard Way. % 801-625-5182. basin winters can be chilly. Nevada Department of Transportation. % 702234-7331. % 800-NEVADA-8. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. Reno. see the listings that accompany each chapter.
000-year-old petroglyphs. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. cheap food. Inside the city limits. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. lounge shows – and recently. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. try hiking to an 11. .000-foot peak. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. in plain view of the casinos. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. closer. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. both prehistoric and otherwise. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum.” But step outside the hotel-casinos.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
% 702-895-3011. 8 AM to 5 PM. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. Showmanship. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. 1 PM to 5 PM. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. actual cosmopolitan. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. Sunday. giant. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. Ham Concert Hall.95 for adults. $3. Southeast of the Strip. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. faculty and invited artists. % 702-363-1921. Yes.50 for seniors. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. The museum is open Monday through Friday. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. The Beam Fine Art Gallery.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. Admission is $4. $4. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). % 702-798-5595. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. call % 702-895-3801.95 for adults. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. % 702-895-3893. Seasonal streams. Just off the glittering Strip. 10 AM to 5 PM. The tax-deductible admission is $6.95 for seniors and students. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. is the Liberace Museum. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. features work by students. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. but no less extravagant. 9 AM to 9 PM. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. % 702-895-3381. Dedicated to Mr.
Back on US 95. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). petting zoo. the road to Mt. (See below. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. 5 PM in the winter. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. The park is open daily. The restaurant and bar are open daily. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. With structures dating back to 1864. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. The park is open daily. 7 AM to dusk. later during summer months. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 8 AM to 11 PM. 8 AM to sunset. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. trail rides and a “real” Western town. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. The park is open daily. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. have been unearthed here. The admission is $5 per vehicle. saloon. Charleston. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. Admission is $4.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. under Adventures on Foot. one-way loop drive is early morning. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered.) The best time to take the 13-mile. % 702-486-5413. wife of a German munitions tycoon. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. 8 AM to 5 PM. Today there is a restaurant. % 702-875-4191. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. % 702-875-4141. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer.
17-mile. elevation 11.) After the hike. % 702-646-3401. Charleston Hotel.) . A right turn leads to Las Vegas. (See below.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. to pick up the excellent hiking maps.000 vertical feet of runs. % 702-872-5408. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. under On Foot. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. desolate valley. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. Charleston Loop. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. Bighorn sheep. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. % 702385-2SKI. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. In the winter. (See below. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. under Adventures and Camping. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. under Camping. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left.) Pitch a tent. (See below. % 702-872-5500. (See below. At the northern edge of the reservation. and its 1. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. completing the Mt. the Mt. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. under On Wheels.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. see below under On Snow. % 702-872-7098. Nevada’s state animal. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. overnight hump to Charleston Peak.918 feet. Charleston Lodge. The 1.
% 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-218-8777 TWA. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir.
AA Auto Rentals. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-372-1981 Avis.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-331-1212 Budget.
Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. The museum is open daily. % 800-332-5333. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. NV 89109. On the north side of Boulder City. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city.50 for adults. Gray Line Tours. % 702-294-1888. 711 East Desert Inn Road. 444 Hotel Plaza. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. . % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 1830 South Boulder Highway. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. NV 89109. 3150 Paradise Road. Call % 800USA-RAIL. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. Did it work? Judge for yourself. % 702-455-7955. $1 for seniors and children under 16. stopping downtown. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. % 702-735-1616. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. Admission is $1.
) Be sure to heed the . the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. All of 726 feet high. 500 South Boulder Highway. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. Las Vegans. The cost is $5 for adults. fishing. for information on camping. % 702-293-2034. Phoenix and Los Angeles. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. $2. head back toward Boulder City. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. and 45 feet thick at the top. 100 Nevada Highway. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. (See On Water below. 89005. 89105. % 702-293-8907. % 702-565-8591. Its building caused the death of 94 workers.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. Children under 10 are free. Hoover also created Lake Mead. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. 660 thick at the base. swimming. boating and diving. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. Hoover Dam took 5.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16.
mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. Back on Nevada 167. % 702-293-6180. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). Beyond here. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. . a public swimming and boating area. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. % 702-397-2088. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. Just beyond the bay. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. From the visitor center. The displays in the visitor center. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. Go straight to reach Henderson. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. thank you. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. which rests on the Virgin River. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. nearly five miles off the highway.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. explain the geology and forces of erosion. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler.
355 Highway 95. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. % 520-754-3272. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. % 702-297-1464. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. 9 AM to 1 PM.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum.000 visitors a month. under Adventures.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. see below. Admission is a $1 donation. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. 9 AM to 5 PM. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. on Lake Mojave. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. Nevada’s record-high temperature. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. the town was a gold. campground and fishing and swimming spots. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. constructed his Riverside Casino. The museum is open Monday through Friday. % 702-297-1682. with motel. in Bullhead City. % 800-46-4584 . % 520-754-4606.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. Arizona. % 520-754-3628. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. South of here is camping. bar and bait shop. East of Searchlight 14 miles. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. (For details on all three. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. Saturday. % 520-754-3399. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. 125°. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. Named for a brand of matches. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. a campground and marina. relives those days.
Special Events February In February. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. May is the busiest month. In Laughlin. % 702-876-3380. % 800-227-5254. % 702-798-6405. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. 1555 South Casino Drive. % 800-227-5245. % 310-448-1822. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. host- . % 800-331-1212 Budget. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 800-736-6247 United Express. as many as 6. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days.
the Las Vegas Classic. Later in the month. the Parade of Lights. October Art in the Park. to the waters of Lake Mead. a three-day balloon rally. % 702-4541212. % 702-452-8066. % 702-2939256. % 702434-0848. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-870-1221. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. % 800-637-1006. blows in. % 702-386-3926. to town. % 702-293-4857. floats into Laughlin. % 702-457-5775. % 702687-5777. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. the International Black Heritage Festival. Another balloon festival. % 702-457-2797. Navaho and Mojave peoples. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. takes place in Vegas. % 800-227-5245. a confluence of Southern Paiute. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. % 702-898-6565. . The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. and the National Finals Rodeo. take place in Boulder City. August In August. also takes place in October. to downtown. to the campus of UNLV. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. % 702-293-2034. % 702-293-1611. % 702-631-7000. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. % 702-8953900.
A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. is to mountain bikers. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. in fact.11+). rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5.12a). White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5.11d) offers more advanced routes. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.8). One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. At the end of a 90-minute approach. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5.11). Chicken Eruptus (5. Sheep Trail (5. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. Other routes in- . Crimson Chrysalis (5. The Choad Warrior (5. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. To the west. Stratocaster (5. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains.11). but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. so take extra precautions when adventuring here. Red Rock attracts free climbers. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. Utah. Graveyard Waltz (5. especially in winter months.11). Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot.9) has 1. At nearby Willow Springs. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5.9). the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. so chalk often stays put for months.11b).
elevation 11. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. & For more information. The trail switchbacks time and again. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. to savor the 300-mile views. The 3. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. ending at a small dam and the spring. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement.10 or 5. Chockstone Press. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. At the aforementioned fork. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. Rainbow Buttress (5. . gaining 3. toward a ridge at 11.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. an easy six-mile round-trip. published by the American Alpine Club.12).918 feet.000 feet.000 feet in four miles.000 feet. consult the Bible of local climbers. See Outfitters. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. page 41. Following the fork. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. The South Loop Trail. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. About seven miles from the visitor center. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. 17 miles round-trip.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5.6). A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road.8) and Eagle Dance (5.
they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. At lower elevations. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. Never take these altitudes lightly. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south.000 feet to a saddle.000 feet into the northeastern sky. gaining 1. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. For trail information and weather and safety updates. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. Beginning on a dirt road. the trail climbs 1. thunderstorms and snow.4 miles.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. Mountain T Ranch. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. . Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. To the northwest. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead.000 feet above the desert. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. contact the US Forest Service. covering two miles and gaining 1. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle.
in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. % 702-596-2953. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. % 702-254-5604. Sports & Adventure Tours. Stay below the northern peaks.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. heading for the northernmost outcropping.2 miles. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. Rocky Trails. Bruce Grubbs. HCR 33. go 6. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Las Vegas 89117. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. Las Vegas. % 702-434-3388. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-364-8687. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. Just south of this outcrop. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. % 888-86ROCKY. PO Box 80875. PO Box 371324. . ascending northwest. 89124. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. and park at the end of the road. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. % 702-223-2176. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. which is marked by a post. Falcon Press Publishing. outlines the easiest route. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. 89180. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. Climb northward up the slope.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. climb a gully to reach a ridge. then go northwest to another plateau. PO Box 1. Las Vegas. 89137. Suite 4. turn right. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard.
are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. % 702-254-1143. % 702387-2457. % 702-2567433. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. Silver State Old West Tours. At mile post 17. Armed . Las Vegas. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. PO Box 19210. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . 617 Hoover Avenue. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. however. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. % 702-649-6819. 89132. Desert Outfitting. Wagons West. Cowboy Trail Rides. Hahn’s World of Surplus. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. Desert Rock Sports. % 702-458-8870. % 702362-7177.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables.6 mile to a dirt road. can arrange a covered wagon trip. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-383-0838. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. % 702-798-6565. % 702-252-7114. % 702-875-1978. Peak Sports. 4065 East Patrick Lane.
Follow this to the top of Red Valley. go to the next intersection. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. 4765 Vegas Drive. At the road. . % 702-647-5000. scanning for a cairn on the left. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. Las Vegas. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. contact the Bureau of Land Management. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. turn right. make a quick right and head downhill. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. before heading out. Head downhill.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. turn left to another intersection and turn right. a six-mile loop. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. Take this until you reach a double track. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. Turn right. Turn right. NV 89126. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. flying downhill and then up to another road. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. For a tamer road trip. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. Go left here. zoom downhill to the fork. A double track soon appears on the right. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. and pump uphill. For a more challenging excursion. After beginning another climb. PO Box 26589. heading uphill. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash.
% 702-596-2953. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-451-9586. % 702-642-2453. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. R&R Cycling. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. Escape the City Streets. . At about the 10-mile mark. Ski Chalet. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. Downhill Bicycle Tours. Las Vegas Bikes USA. 7934 Cadenza Lane. % 702-876-8687. the byway forks. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. % 702-8978287.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. % 702-252-8077. Turn left to return to US 15. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. 16 Cottonwood Drive. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. % 702-646-3401.
the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. 89101. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. is on the premises. . Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. 2810 South Highland Drive. an avid angler for more than 50 years. % 702-646-8800. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. Suite B. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. crystal-clear hotel pool.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. 4765 West Vegas Drive. % 702-380-6969. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. 713 East Ogden Street. % 702-454-5555. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. % 888-REELRIO. Las Vegas. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. 8 AM to 11 AM. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. 3700 Flamingo Road. of all places. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. For details. maps and more information on backcountry byways. It begins. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. % 702-796-9355. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. Old West Territory Tours. Rebel Adventure Tours.
visit Divers’ Discount Supply. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. under Boating Outfitters. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. peregrine falcons and even flamingos.) Swimming. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. Boulder Beach. water skiing. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). rents houseboats. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. instruction and gear. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. % 800-34-SCUBA. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. meals and overnight lodging for $449. Off Nevada 167. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. about three miles across at its widest point. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. . Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Forever Resorts. jet skiing. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. offering professional advice. Thomas. largemouth bass and trout. powerboats and cruisers. flows into Lake Mead. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra.500-acre ranch in Utah. and two.to three-days notice is required. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. The expert staff is available seven days a week. % 800-2555561. (See below. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). For details.
The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. . Las Vegas. offers trips from January through November. Las Vegas. 89102. is the local fishing and boating hub. Lake Mead Cruises. 89124. % 702-2931190. % 800-696-RAFT.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. particularly near cliffs. 322 Lake Shore Road. 89006. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. Lake Mojave Farther south. % 702-293-6180. PO Box 100. HCR 30. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. Calville Bay Resort. % 702-252-7114. PO Box 62465. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. The cost is about $65 per person. Near Laughlin. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. % 702-754-3245. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. 89006. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. % 702-565-8958. PO Box 61235. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. Return transportation is provided by bus.
% 702-564-5660. % 702-433-3263. 520-758-6242. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. % 702297-1464. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. % 702-437-9283. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. 4290 Boulder Highway. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. Overton. Fiesta Queen Cruises. % 702-459-2080. % 702-452-8299. Laughlin River Tours. Sunset Bait & Tackle. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. 1450 Newberry Drive. Overton Beach Marina. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. % 702-388-1022. Clearwater Flyfishing. Overton. Bullhead City. PO Box 29279. AZ. . Tom’s Water Skiing. 89028. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. % 702565-0696. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. 89040. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. Laughlin. PO Box 29279. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702-5659111. % 800-228-9825. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. 89040. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. 89029. % 702-3944000.
% 702-434-0848.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. Hackett Bungy. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. Utah. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Arizona and Zion. 68 Mallory Road. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. Saturday until midnight. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. 1500 Palomino Drive. ext. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. Karen Jones. Jim Goff. % 702-565-8396. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. 3800. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. citing growing noise problems. HB Fishing Guide Service.J. . The company claims more than 500. 161 East Rancho Drive. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. complete with guided ground tours and meals. % 702-564-1558. A jump is $59. however. Even more memorable. % 702-5657583. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. Henderson Bill Spellman. % 702-871-1399.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. noon to 9 PM. With commercial balloon tours. % 702-451-4004. 810 Circus Circus Drive. % 702-385-4321. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A.
com. Scenic Airlines. % 800-446-4584. 89005. 806 Buchanan Street. Boulder City. % 800-634-6851. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. Las Vegas. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. % 800-255-7474.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. Jean. 806 Buchanan Street. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. #115-200. King Airelines. % 702-736-0013. % 702-877-1010. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. % 800-634-6377. % 800-216-8330. NV 89117. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. Las Vegas Airlines. 200 Convention Center Drive. D&R Balloons. PO Box 19629. Set at a base elevation of 8. Sundance Helicopters. 241 East Reno Avenue. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. Jean Airport. % 800-535-4448. Las Vegas. % 702-293-1860. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Heli USA. Skydive Las Vegas. Eagle Canyon Airlines. % 702-385-2SKI. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving.ultimateballoonadven. NV 89019. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. Air Vegas Airlines.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. Web site www. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. % 800-359-8727. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. % 702-221-9199. 3275 Rosanna Street. 2705 Airport Drive. 89109. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L .
For more serious snow. 600 East Fremont Street. $-$$$. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past.000-room MGM Grand. 2395 North Rancho Road. % 702-385-1664. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. % 702-385-5200. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities.000 techies to Sin City. it seems. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. over 100. But somehow. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. Above all. % 800-272-7426. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. $-$$. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. 18 East Fremont Street. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. The place was once part-owned by in- . All they do is take up space.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. After all. % 702-646-0008. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. luring 200. if possible.000 visitors. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. HO TE L Many hotels. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. are booked solid on weekends. even behemoths like the 5.
One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. The Golden Nugget. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. 3000 Paradise Road. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. $-$$. $$-$$$$. the young upstarts. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. Monte Carlo. who built the first casino resort. dominate the Strip. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. 129 East Fremont Street. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $-$$. $$-$$$$. % 702-894-7111. has 1. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. If staring at wealth is your thing. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. Caesars Palace. New York. way out there. $$-$$$$. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands.037 rooms. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-740-NYNY. South of here. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. The faux volcano. % 702-791-7171. New York is out there. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. is a crowd-pleaser. the Flamingo. % 702-385-7111. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. and New York. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. $$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. $$$$$. The Four Queens. across from the Fashion Show Mall. 202 East Fremont Street. however. % 702-3821600. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. % 702-740-NYNY.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). Next door is the Island’s big sister. The movie Rainman was shot here. Down the street. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. The Mirage. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-732-5111. $$-$$$. the MGM Grand. % 702-386-2110. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. Even by Vegas standards. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. % 702-385-4011. 1 Main Street. 128 East Fremont Street. New York. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. % 702-731-7110. Across the street is the green giant. $$$-$$$$.
Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. TIP Laughlin For the most part. while Bellagio will boast 3. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. On the outskirts of Vegas. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. $$-$$$$. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas.000. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. $$-$$$$. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. % 800-634-3988. Charleston Hotel. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. . contrary to popular belief. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. % 702-262-4555. too. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. three Motel 6s.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. which eliminates Reno.000 visitors a month and climbing. % 702-872-5408. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. % 702-735-1616. $-$$. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. In the Spring Mountains. $-$$$. positively sedate with its 5. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. Charleston Resort. the Mt. set at 7. % 702-872-5500. At this book goes to press. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. has 2. but don’t count on that for long. Bonnie Springs Motel. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park.500 rooms. contact the Chamber of Commerce.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. % 702-875-4400.
seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. both at the MGM Grand. % 702735-8686. 2121 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-2453. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. An excellent buffet. $-$$$. $-$$. % 702-298-4600. and Harrah’s. % 702-733-3111. % 702-891-7374. Downtown at the Four Queens. To really dine UPtown. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 2100 South Casino Drive. After a few meals at most of these troughs. sports a railroad theme. % 702-298-4200. % 702-298-4000.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. % 702-385-5016. On the Strip. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . offers 2. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. Café Michelle. $-$$$.000 rooms. $-$$$. $$$$. has 1. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. Eurasian mélange. and very expensive. % 702-298-2214. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. Andiamo. the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-252-7777. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. 3700 West Flamingo Road. $-$$. % 702-385-4011. classy Hugo’s Cellar. Hamada. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. 202 Fremont Street. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. % 702-298-7111. $-$$. in the Las Vegas Hilton. Nearby. 2000 South Casino Drive. however. 2300 South Casino Drive. % 702-732-5111. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-298-5111. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. % 702-3807711. 1650 Casino Drive. At the Flamingo Hilton. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. serves upscale Italian fare. while the Colorado Belle. and Gatsby’s. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. % 702-891-7337. while the Golden Nugget.500 rooms. 1350 East Flamingo Road. Andre’s. Emeril’s. contact the Chamber of Commerce. % 702-298-2535. The Edgewater. The Ramada Express. 2900 South Casino Drive. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. Off the main drags. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. opened in 1990. 401 South 6th Street. 1900 South Casino Drive.
% 702-384-4470. 2504 East Fremont.400 feet. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. % 702-363-1921. The elevation here ranges between 7. as the name implies. serves hip. The Green Shack. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. For information. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-383-0007. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. 3900 Paradise Road. while moderately pricey. 4455 Paradise Road. Suite Z. which. call % 702-873-8800. in the shadow of Mt. Fong’s. Charleston. % 702-794-0700. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. Kyle Canyon. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. seven days a week. % 702733-8899. Phillip’s Supper House. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. although the Lodge. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon.000 and 8. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. % 702-382-1644. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. serves fine steaks and seafood. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. having opened in 1932. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. % 702-298-2242. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. is the oldest restaurant in the city. Chin’s. Near the end of Nevada 157. so be prepared for extreme weather. % 702-2984600. All five campgrounds have piped water. For a Latin taste. is the most popular Chinese place in town. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. % 702-693-5000. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. . % 702-873-5222. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. 308 West Sahara Avenue. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. Chicken is the house specialty. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. For satisfying American favorites.
% 520-754-3272. Calville Bay has 80 sites. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. north of town on Lake Mojave. On the Virgin River to the north. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. To the east of Vegas. call % 702-646-3401. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. Moving north from Boulder City. there’s Boulder Beach. On the north shore. Las Vegas Territory . has room for 171 RVers and tenters. For information on all five locations. % 520-7544606. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. For information. In Valley of Fire State Park. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. % 702-397-2088. Across the river from the Strip. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites.
“not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown.000 feet. just east of the California-Nevada border. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. Heavenly and Mt. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. Rose resorts. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. the largest alpine lake in North America. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. The Truckee River.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. Reno. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. At the heart of this region. the city of Reno is the . and for good reason. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. Of course. Las Vegas. With a surface elevation of more than 7. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. In the winter. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters.
A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. an ancient. 8. are walks back in time. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. The Carson River. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. Fort Churchill. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. where everyone expects Ben. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. Washoe Lake State Park. Today this mirage-come-true. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. Just south of Carson City. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. Pyramid Lake. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. . on the shores of Washoe Lake. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. which meanders – sometimes wet. About 30 miles north of Reno. Farther east of Carson City. Farther south. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. The place dates back to 1851. North of Pyramid Lake. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. meanwhile. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub.
From here. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. which hosts special events in warmer months. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. for a schedule. the city continues to grow rapidly. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. H. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno.H. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. From Carson City. North Virginia Street. No. and in 1859 C. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. Like Vegas. In 1852. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. % 800-FOR-RENO. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. In 1863. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. From Reno. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. there isn’t a glass pyramid. the latter beginning in Wadsworth.W. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. or at least slow. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could.
but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. this is it. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. From a historical point of view.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. .
is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. About 10 minutes north of the university. 1502 North Washington Street. % 702-333-9300. % 702-788-3773. To get there. (See below under On Foot. 1265 Deerlodge Road. 300 North Center Street. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. is a well-known. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. % 702784-4812. % 702-688-1190.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. On the suburban south side of Reno. Fleischmann Planetarium. Great Basin Adventure. houses one of the world’s best collections. When arms get tired. has been at that location since 1946. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. And the Keck Minerals Museum. including black bears and kit foxes. 10 South Lake Street. but call first for hours. houses a theater and telescope. boasts three treasures. the campus of the University of Nevada. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. May Museum and Arboretum. On the northern outskirts of the city. turn right. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. The Nevada Historical Society. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. % 702-7855961. % 702-334-2600. is also located here. On the north side of the city. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. Animal Ark Nature Center. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. the National Automobile Museum. 1650 North Virginia Street. April through October. Reno-Tahoe Territory . where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. The staff welcomes visitors daily.) The Wilbur D. % 702-969-3111. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. a nifty historical theme park. % 702-784-4528. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome.
Budget. % 800-325-8007. Alaska Airlines. % 800-221-2000. Delta Air Lines. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Hertz. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. Northwest Airlines. % 800-221-1212. % 800-654-3131. % 800-241-6522. % 800-231-2222. United Airlines. % 800-331-1212. % 800-527-0700. % 702-882-3375. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. % 800-359-2472. % 800-435-9792. . % 800-736-6247. K-T Services. Thrifty. % 800-218-8777. % 800-426-7000. TWA. % 800-367-2277. Greyhound Lines. % 800-235-9292. Enterprise. % 800-453-9417. If you don’t have a car. % 800-654-7037. Dollar. % 800-225-2525. Southwest Airlines. Avis. % 702-328-6400. Canadian Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-CAR-RENT. National. America West Airlines. TriStar Airlines. No Stress Express. % 800-800-4000. Delta Connection-Sky West. Lloyd’s International.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. Reno Air.
a marvelous intermingling of water. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. All told. rock. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. 405 Marsh Avenue. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. year-round outdoor playgrounds. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. provides an interesting mix of adventures. control erosion and acquire open land. trees and sky. 4590 South Virginia Street. % 800-FOR-RENO. in his journal Roughing It. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. restore forest and watersheds. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. NV 89505. % 702-686-3030. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. Reno. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. 98 Colony Road. % 702-329-2936. local. but the future of the Basin itself. Fortunately. At press time. respectively. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . In reality. is a study in contrast. NV 89502. In 1861. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. the waters are now finding friends in high places. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. Reno.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
But in between them. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach.50 for kids. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe.776 feet. Reno-Tahoe Territory .50 for adults. (See below. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. Three miles south of Incline Village. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. The park. is well-known to snorkelers. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. along the eastern shoreline. restrooms and picnic areas. called Diver’s Cove. % 702-831-0494. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. After the buzz of the ranch. with its full slate of running water. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. is a welcome respite. The north end of the beach. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. stands out amid the pines.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. Admission is $8. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. Viewed from the highway. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. The beaches are open daily. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. $5. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. open May through November. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. % 702-849-2511. under On Foot.) Up the twisting NV 431. % 702-831-0691. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. at 10.
under On Snow). With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. % 702588-3000. South Lake Tahoe. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. Booming in the winter (see below.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. % 702588-3508. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers.50 per adult. Sailing. NV 89449. condos. PO Box 16299. canoeing. CA. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. The price for such sloth is $10. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. Every summer. a nature trail circles the lake.) For the unmechanized. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. May through November. PO Box 7139. % 702-588-4591. under Adventures and Accommodations. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. At Tahoe Village. % 800-AT-TAHOE. offices and shops. Stateline. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. then into the broad Washoe Valley. % 916-583-9048. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. (See below. also offers excursions. (See below. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. This is the home port of the Dixie II. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. $6 per child. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. 96151. For information. under On Snow. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. The day-use fee is $5. horseback riding. restaurants.250 feet in five minutes.
Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. Camping. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. off NV 429. camping and hiking (see below. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. the world’s largest silver strike. Bowers Mansion. one mile south of Washoe City. US 395 slides southwest. Washoe Lake covers about 3. the mansion and all its furnishings. eventually lost their silver fortune. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. the boom rolled in at full throttle. 1851. Bowers Mansion County Park. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find.” On Halloween in 1864. was hit a year later in Virginia City. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. and on weekends between May and October. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. 87 and 98). boating. (See below. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. % 702-687-4319. a hunt that lasted 20 years. About 30 miles south of Reno. The park’s centerpiece. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. About 15 miles south of Reno.000 acres. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. windsurfing. site of Washoe Lake State Park. When the Comstock Lode. In November. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. % 702-849-0201. under Adventures. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. pages 83. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. During the wet season. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . while the blue and the gray fought in the East. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. Washoe Lake. The original owners. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West.
Just east of the Capitol. . The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. 101 North Carson Street. excepting state holidays. which was opened in 1886. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. Admission is $3. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. Open Monday through Friday.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Unlike most Western capitals. Located in the Carson City Mint building. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. It’s so open. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. the Nevada State Library & Archives. the Capitol is open daily. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. 100 Stewart Street. yearround. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. % 702-687-5160. % 702-687-4810. in fact. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. The library contains the original state constitution.” In fact. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. % 702-884-3450. Headquartered in nearby Minden. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. Call for schedules and pick-up points. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. exhibits of native fauna. % 702687-5030. 600 North Carson Street. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. The Capitol Building & Museum.
Admission is $2. % 702-826-2766. Samuel. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. % 702-884-2226. and Bender House (1874). 502 North Division Street. % 702-882-1808. 302 South Carson Street. % 702-687-6953. The Orion Clemens House. The St. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. $2 for kids. % 702-883-1976. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . Admission is $2. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. On the suburban south side of Carson City. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. Two blocks north. The Roberts House Museum. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. % 702-887-2174. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). The museum is filled with period furniture. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. 1207 North Carson Street. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. 2180 South Carson Street. Charles-Muller Hotel. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. books and permits for the surrounding area. The staff can provide trail maps. Roughing It. The Stewart Indian Museum. train rides are extra. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. 448 West King Street. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. was named for its original occupant. Bliss Mansion. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. 1536 South Carson Street. The office is closed Sundays.50. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. That classic journal. the Carson City Brewing Company. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. The building now houses a live theater. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. Admission is $4 for adults. 813 North Carson Street. 5366 Snyder Avenue. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
3. Up the street. The museum is open daily. first opened to tourists in 1862. . Daily admission is $12. As of presstime. weight room and tennis courts year-round. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. at the foot of the Carson Range. Before the school closed in 1980. The roots go back to 1851. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. Genoa Bar. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. Guests can enjoy the water. % 702-782-4325. May through October. Across the street. 2001 Foothill Road. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. Walley’s. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. 1900 South Carson Street. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets.000 students had walked its halls. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. % 702-782-8155. May through October. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. lies Genoa. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. Carson City. NV 89701. opened in 1863. % 702-687-7410. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. saunas. the first permanent white settlement in the state. California. The place saw Nevada’s first house. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. now long gone. to Genoa. where he is buried.
1440 Highway 395. of all places. Gardnerville in 1879. including Western art and portraiture. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. Just down US 395. resting precariously . Leaving Carson City. % 702-782-3133. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. % 702-266-3343. Beyond NV 341. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. The otherwise barren hills. and their spirit built the Silver State. a 1. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. the highway hits Topaz Lake. boxing memorabilia. About three miles south of Gardnerville. % 702-782-2555. Finally. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. which climbs up a narrow. Their riches. circus items. about eight miles south of Carson City. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. 1477 Highway 395. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. Minden was founded in 1904. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. valleys. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. Virginia City. In Gardnerville. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. their sweat. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. where it intersects with NV 341. Housed in the 1915 high school building. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush.200acre beauty set at 5.
Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. % 702-847-0777. leave regularly. and within four years. Here.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. Not recommended for claustrophobes. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. % 702847-0975.000 a ton in silver. underground mine tours. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. The Marshall Mint Museum. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. Admission is $3. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. The Comstock Lode had been struck. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. more than 15.000 lived in Virginia City. The building is open daily. Today. is a looming. Up C Street. % 702-847-0757. Admission prices range from donations to $3. . Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. At the south end of town.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. May through October.
Mark Twain’s Memories. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. Admission is $2. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. The Way It Was Museum. lives on in two buildings. complete with ornate chandeliers. Finally. 3. The headstones and gravesites. is definitely not for the puritan.50. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. a room in the basement of a saloon. % 702-847-0766. Its extravagant interior. % 702-8470830. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. June through October. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. The Mark Twain Museum. % 702-8470333. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. Open daily. has a more eclectic collection. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. After she was murdered in 1867. including an old jukebox and player pianos. Admission is $2. % 702-847-9394.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. for a ride into yesterday. % 702-847-0454. Reno-Tahoe Territory . The memory of Samuel Clemens. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. % 702-847-0525. windswept plateau. is open daily. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. % 702847-0275. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West.
including Odeon Hall. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. number about 30. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. wild horses. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. After about eight miles. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. appears in Palomino Valley.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. Past the intersection with NV 431. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. Today. little more than a few walls remain. After another 20 miles. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. % 702-847-0311. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . The Byway’s terminus. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. There is also a developed campground. % 702-673-1150. then exit at NV 445.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. or mustangs. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. % 702-577-2345. Several historic buildings survive in downtown.
% 702-547-0187. of course. Spreading north and east. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. nine-mile-wide watering hole.000 BC. A reservation was formalized in 1874. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. From Nixon. according to artifacts found in local caves. Camping. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. boat ramp. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. campground. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. Just north of the marina. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. boating and fishing are extra. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. Fremont. They will provide directions and hours of operation.182 feet) to the west. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. or dry lake bed. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. continues to surround the lake. site of the ranger station. this is the place to do it – unless. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. thus christening the 27-mile-long. the road passes Wino. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. % 702-476-1156. store and museum. Another 25 miles north via paved. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. since at least 9. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. If losing yourself is your goal. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. Today. Nearby. Tribe members administer recreation activities. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. the world’s largest playa.
. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. songbirds. % 503-947-3315. on 575.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. A shovel. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. about one mile south of NV 140. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. Besides antelope. spare tire. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. caution and common sense are key to traveling. preparedness is imperative. tow chain. TAKE CARE In this region. Help can be a long way away. Again. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. birds of prey. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. even with one. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. and carry enough water. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80.
% 702-829-1955. In Reno. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. is held in Sparks. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. In Gardnerville. % 702-265-5281. % 702-882-1802. water. The Way It Was Rodeo. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. % 702-782-2211. % 702-353-2291. % 702-782-2444. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. a rolling custom car show. % 702-882-1808. % 702-329-3877. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. % 702-883-1352. % 702-687-7410. is a rip-snortin’ affair. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. bills itself as the “Wildest. Reno also . % 800-FOR-RENO. Night Curves. with food.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. % 702-588-6211. In Carson City. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. In Virginia City. the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-847-0311. % 702-882-1283. Richest Rodeo in the West. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. Carson Valley Days. heats up. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. % 702-588-9658. % 702-329-7469. % 702-847-7500. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples.
the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-688-5767. the Nevada State Fair. and the National Championship Air Races. deconstructionist Woodstock. % 702-782-9711. . is held in Reno. attracts American Indians from many Western states. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. gather in Minden. come to Virginia City along with a parade. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. % 702-827-7603. the notorious Burning Man Festival. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. In Incline Village. % 702-847-0311. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-329-7469. In the skies. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. % 702-832-1606. takes place in Carson City. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. % 702-786-5700. On the Black Rock Desert. % 702-826-1181. a sort of post-modern. and the Nevada Day Parade. % 702-329-1476. % 702-885-6939. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. % 702-882-1565. The Great Italian Festival. % 702-972-6663. Street Vibrations. % 800-535-3045. the Native American Snow Dance.
12a opportunities. Farther south. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon.11a). Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. . however. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face.11d) and Slayer (5. Falcon Press Publishing.000 feet. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. After crossing Galena Creek. At the five-mile mark. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. with parking on the left just south of the vista point.11a and 5. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe.11c and heavier. including Asylum (5.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. all 5. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. 1994. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. are more chilling than the mountain air. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. so dress appropriately. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. There are more than 20 routes. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. Overhangs present experts with 5. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes.14a). then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. including Jello Wars (5. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. There are 10 routes. whips around a peak.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. then climbs to a saddle. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. then climbs in earnest toward the peak.
a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. NV 431. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. After another mile. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. The trail ends at a highway. for children $5. % 702-847-WALK. Hours are seasonal. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. % 702-6881893. so call first. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. Since the slide. climbing 3. elevation 8.300 feet in just six miles. offers a beautiful willow. This hike is certainly strenuous. Customized walking and driving tours are also available.260 feet. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. The charge for adults is $12. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. including great blue herons and birds of prey. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. . which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. as are group tours. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage.
Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. Mahogany Mountain. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. Madras. CA 94620. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. For more information. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. From here. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. For road conditions and closures. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. is a good overnight point. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. write them at PO Box 20991. As this is being written. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. % 916-279-6101. The trail. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. Oakland. . contact the BLM. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. For more information. Yellow Hills East. as are 7. For travel information. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. great horned owls and other birds of prey. OR 97441. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. Stevens Camp. To reach the trailhead.
the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. NV 89502. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. Look for the Knott Creek sign. NV 89511. Incline Village. NV 89450. % 702-746-6878. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. PO Box 6145. . The lakes. % 702-626-6916. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. NV 89436. backpackers and photographers. Sparks. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. % 702-832-5231. jogs through alpine meadows. Bighorn Outfitting. Nevada Guide Service. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. On the east side of the reservoir. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. % 702-333-6795. 1135 Terminal Way. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. % 702-322-9559. 490 Kietzke Lane. Reno. % 702-623-1500. Denio Junction. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. Reno. 8550 White Fir Street. 20 Daylily Court. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. to the soaring summit at 9.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. A steep. terminus of the fairly flat. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. Patagonia Outlet. #111. Silver State Outfitters.200 lung-burning feet. but they might also offer their services to hikers. % 702-851-1924. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. 3335 Vista Boulevard. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. gaining 2. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. Outdoor Adventures.397 feet. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer.
% 702-849-1020. % 702-323-5630. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. 4339 South Carson Street. % 702-849-9651. % 702-849-0570. In the highlands near Mount Rose. % 702588-5664. % 702-8827779. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. also rents horses. In all four cases. % 702-3584824. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. Sierra Spirit Ranch. and offers picnic rides. Twin City Surplus. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. 1941 North Carson Street. 1675 East 4th Street. 4375 South Carson Street. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. % 702884-3453.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. Near Washoe Lake State Park. Vogl Trek USA. call first for availability and directions. Sierra Mountaineer. % 702-8252855. % 702-831-5465. Sporting Rage. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . Strictly Scuba & More. the trail makes a high-altitude. % 702-885-7773. offers ranch day trips. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. After about three miles. contact Tin Cup Adventures. Zephyr Cove Stables. 155 East Moana Lane. % 702782-7011. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. which parallels North Canyon Creek. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 1201 Highway 395. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous.
don’t screw it up. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. depending on point of view. % 702-831-0494. to Vya. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. From here. For detailed maps. To complete the loop. % 916-279-6101. . half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. Put simply. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). The half-paved.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. north of Pyramid Lake. Continuing northwest on NV 447. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. or ends. 84 miles back to Gerlach. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination.
1999 South Virginia Street. winter and spring. 89701. 89509. call % 702-688-1500. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. % 702-747-1413. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 1987 North Carson Street. 89502. % 702826-0800. & According to Jeanne L. also known as NV 206. Bike Brothers. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. . Bicycle Warehouse. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. 3450 Lakeside Drive. Falcon Press Publishing. % 702-8871333. 89532. 89502. 235 East Plumb Lane. 1200 South Wells Avenue. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. % 702827-3277. 1993. % 702-825-8258. % 702883-3210. 89701. % 702786-5111. % 702-3226001. 4135 South Virginia Street. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. 89502. south of Carson City. 500 North Carson Street.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. Excell Skates. along with Canada geese in fall. Great Basin Bicycles. 89502. Reno Schwinn. For more information.
On the Nevada side. kingfishers. which can take up to seven hours. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. rents powerboats. 89450. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. PO Box 3007. six miles south of Gardnerville. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. % 702-8825007. personal water craft and kayaks. cutthroat and rainbows. 625 Fairview Drive. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. % 702-588-3369. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. % 702782-0867. offers 1. canoes. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. 89423. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. California. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. . 1685 Highway 395 South.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. Contact the US Forest Service. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. via NV 88 and CA 89. turkey vultures. The trip. coyotes. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. Entrance fee is $3 per car. During spring and early summer. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. red-tailed hawks. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. Spooner Lake. 89701. Nevada. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground.
still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. thanks to Sierra runoff. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. A better option might be Ophir Creek. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. % 702-6874319. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. For moving-water anglers. water levels. with campground and restrooms. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. % 702-688-1500.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. Washoe Lake State Park. both on the eastern shore. catfish and trout. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. However. are regularly stocked with rainbows. There are two boat ramps. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. and charges a launching fee. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. For more adventurous angling. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. only a mile west of downtown. but in wet years. Idlewilde Park. planting and licensing information. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. although . shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. The smaller. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. For the stalwart anglers. For directions. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. two to three miles up a steep trail. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border.
During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. Camping is primitive. boasts a handful of isolated spots. the setting here is primative. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. however. see below. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. Boats with outboards are permitted. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. For more information. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. under Outfitters. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. The reservoir is located on private land. crappie and perch. a health advisory is still in effect. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. More than 100 years later. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. used to separate gold and silver from ore. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. while rainbow. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. Nevada Angler’s Guide. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. .88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. In his book. Rainbow. Come prepared. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. % 702-688-1500. There are two boat ramps on the lake. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir.
NV 89448. With a base elevation of 8.440 vertical feet of runs. % 702-358-6113. PO Box 10225. NV 89448. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. . Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. 89502. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. Tahoe Topliners. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. Reno Fly Shop. % 702-588-4916. NV 89431. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Tahoe City. Sparks. Don’s Fishing Charters. NV 89502. 490 Kietzke Lane. % 916573-0753. PO Box 6506. % 702-322-9559. % 702-827-0600. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. % 916-541-5448. 96145. 155 East Moana Lane. Zephyr Cove. CA. NV 89449. Zephyr Cove. Stateline. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. NV 89502.. % 916-546-4444. 294 East Moana Lane. intermediate and advanced. The Gilly. PO Box 815. Snowboarders are welcome. Mount Rose also offers lessons. % 702-825-2855. Reno.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. rentals and a shuttle bus. Reno. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. PO Box 1909.260 feet. equally divided among novice. 1111 North Rock Boulevard.
is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. and rental. This is a monster of a mountain. not to mention great views of the lake. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express.500 feet). For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. and/or snowshoes. . Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. 89451. rentals.000 to 9. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. trail pass) is $34. lessons. which include a pass. % 702-749-5349. Incline Village. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. skate skis. with the longest vertical drop (3. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. a new gondola and the famous tram. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. all-terrain skis. six surface lifts.800) and the highest top elevation (10. $8 after 3 PM). the greatest acreage (4. Spooner Lake Cross-Country.840 feet. day tours and amateur races. lesson. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. % 702-831-8361. % 702-7823047. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. Diamond Peak. Lessons. Snowboarders are welcome. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. Heavenly has 18 chairs.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. lesson. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced.000 feet above sea level. 1210 Ski Way. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. rentals. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. Heavenly. For cross-country fans. Lessons. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. NV. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000.
89502. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. 209 Kingsbury. % 702-329-5358. % 702-358-4824. In Reno. % 702831-3500. % 702-831-2922. % 702-849-0111. Stateline House of Ski. PO Box 19215. C&J Flight Aviation. 2500 East 2nd Street. % 702-3226001. Bobo’s Ski Shop. South Lake Tahoe. % 702-3239463. of- . % 702-8269096. Excell Skates. 89502. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 89502. 89502. Mogul Mouse. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 1685 Highway 395 South.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. 2615 Mill Street. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. 89502. % 702782-0867. % 702786-5111. 89451. 89502. % 702-831-3537. % 916-544-1221. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. 321 Sky Way. 515 East Moana Lane. 140 Vesta Street. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 89502. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 89451. Galena Ski Rentals. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. Sierra Mountaineer. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. Sundance Ski Company. 89451. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. Serva Ski. 89502. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. 235 East Plumb Lane. % 702-588-5935. CA 96151. % 702-786-7071. Snowind Sports. 89423. % 702-786-2020.
a dance club. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. High Country Soaring. % 800-648-3353. % 800-427-8397. % 800-635-0066. The Douglas County Airport. offers 534 rooms. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night).and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. % 702-784-4944. Harvey’s Resort. poolside service. 398 US 50. Harrah’s. eight restaurants. the Sierras and. $$$-$$$$. $$$-$$$$.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. Tahoe Summit Village. % 800-99-RIDGE. $$$-$$$$. Lake Tahoe. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. $$$-$$$$. . Lake Village Vacations. $$$$. % 800-6483773. of course. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. % 702-588-8571. $$$$$$$. on this site since 1944.. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. has 740 rooms. three. also features condo accommodations. has two.
% 800-687-8733. $$-$$$. % 800-824-6391. 2 Stateline Road. as well as a gym with instructor on site. A perennial four-star winner. lawn games. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. % 800-731-6222. % 702-831-0287. % 702-588-6644. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. 111 Country Club Drive. has 33 rooms. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s.$$-$$$$. $$$. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. 24 Highway 28. first-class. % 800- . many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. the Cal-Neva Resort. 593 North Dyer Circle. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. % 800-225-6382. % 800-624-7980. The Zephyr Cove Resort. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. Among the downtown locations. a rustic feel.700 rooms on 38 floors. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. $$. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. $-$$. $$-$$$$. % 702-8321234. 407 North Virginia Street. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. with more than 1. which serves free continental breakfast. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. % 800-322-7723. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. As in Las Vegas. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. $$-$$$. combines great views. The Haus Bavaria B&B. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. 210 North Center Street. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. Today. Harrah’s.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. $$. $$$-$$$$. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s.
Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. $. % 800-282-2444. % 702-786-4070. Nearby. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. welcomes bargain hunters. % 800-723-6500. the Eldorado. % 800-320-0627. 710 West Robinson Street. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. two heated pools and a hair salon. $$-$$$. an owner-built. % 702-882-3643. 600 South Carson Street. is a three-story. Circus Circus. % 800-648-1177. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. 1100 Nugget Avenue. Charles Hotel. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. $$. % 702-825-7134. which overlooks the state government center. Rates start at $195 per night. 1901 South Virginia. % 800-723-6500. 345 North Virginia Street. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. boasts nearly 600 rooms. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. Freeway convenient. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. $$.000 rooms. It has more than 1. which features theme rooms. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. the Motel 6. $$. and Vagabond Inn. $$. The St. % 800-622-1890. The Atlantis. $$$$. has more than 1. . $$. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. 3131 South Virginia Street. including a barber shop. John Ascuagua’s Nugget.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. $$-$$$. % 800-937-1436. 310 South Carson Street. convention facilities and some impressive suites. 701 East 7th Street. $$. % 702-358-1080. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. 3575 South Virginia Street. $$$. Motel 6. % 800-648-5966. % 702-827-0255. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. the new Peppermill. a heated pool and other amenities. free airport shuttle and skier rates. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. 500 North Sierra Street. % 702-8821887.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. $$. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. has a heated pool. $$$. $$. Away from downtown. most notably the Days Inn. 2707 South Virginia Street. $.
two with private baths. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. $$. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. % 800-962-0732. 565 South D Street. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. % 702-847-9777. There are 13 rooms.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. The Crooked House. 1627 US 395. $$-$$$. % 702-782-9711. % 702-8825535. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. % 702-782-7075. generic motels abound in Carson City. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. % 702-847-0521. was built in the late 1800s. $$-$$$. $-$$. #800-628-7831. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. % 702-882-3046. 1979 US 395. Pratt. The Chollar Mansion. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. 8 South F Street. including the small Genoa House Inn. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. The motel has 40 rooms. $$$. $$$. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. $. . with 58 rooms and live entertainment. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. is the center of the action. 800 North Carson. and a casino. It has four rooms. 1431 Ezell Street. $$. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. % 702-782-7644. 1643 US 395. 2001 Foothill Road. 907 South Carson. % 702-557-2220. % 702-782-5697. $-$$. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. 180 Nixon Street. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. 300 Main Street.C. for weary wanderers. $$. 11 with private baths. % 702-847-0111. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. 2332 Main Street. 1435 US 395. and Pioneer. some with kitchenettes. $$. 1540 Main Street. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. % 800-321-6983. $$$. has five rooms. the inn was built in 1872 by A. $-$$. It has four rooms. $-$$. % 702-782-8720.
serves fresh Japanese steak. Reservations are recommended. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. along with Caesars Tahoe. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. 328 Kingsbury Grade. try the Glory Hole. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. % 702-588-2411. a casino. % 702-323-5550. The place has 14 rooms. % 702-588-6611. % 702-827-4111. The French cuisine is made with fresh. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. % 702-786-1323. % 702-588-6276.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. including a seafood and oyster bar. of course. $. 4201 West 4th Street. also run the gamut with delis. The restaurant also does its own baking. 3127 South Virginia Street. % 702-941-0371. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. the menu changes every two months. is a rousing pub with good food. no TVs and. Famous Murphys. Open for dinner only. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Open for dinner only. % 702-825-1250. Steak. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. the lake’s first casino. Ichiban. coffee shops. The Chart House. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. 3065 West 4th Street. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. % 702-323-3200. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. ethnic food and full buffets. seasonal ingredients. 1200 Razorback Road. The hotels. . 210 North Sierra Street.
is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. 4389 South Carson Street. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. % 702-8835100. South of the city center and south of the border. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. % 702-785-7000. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. % 702882-1626. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. % 702-882-3353. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. % 702-883-6261. 234 North Virginia. There is also an extensive wine list. 402 East William Street. 255 North Sierra Street. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. 1301 North Carson Street. % 702-348-9297. . The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. The Carson Nugget Steak House. % 702-882-0486. 507 North Carson Street. 1112 North Carson Street. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. 1020 North Carson Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. Boasting a large Italian menu. dinner only on weekends. 2707 South Virginia Street. % 702-882-4556. Two blocks away. this is the place. Adele’s. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. one of the top Italian eateries in country. Silvana’s. Heidi’s. % 702-356-3300. the Eldorado. % 702-8262121. and Peppermill. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. seafood and steak. % 702-689-7226. serves fine French cuisine. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. El Charro Avitia. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-847-0111. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. % 702786-5700. 1540 Main Street. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away.
nine for RVs.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. the campground has 24 sites. Mount Rose has running water. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. % 702-789-2000. which straddles the Nevada-California border. The overnight fee is $7. % 702-323-3381. Rates run about $18 per night. California. including Virgin Valley. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. On the Nevada side. % 702-322-2281. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. % 916-573-2600. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. Nightly fees are $6. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. Reno RV Park. the campground has 54 sites and running water. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. % 702-8822766. % 702-687-4319. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. call % 702266-3343. Showers are available. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. The nightly fee is $5. For information and fees.900 feet. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. . office of the BLM. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. The overnight rate is $12. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. Open June through September. lies south of the river. Call the Cedarville. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. 1300 West 2nd Street. 2500 East 2nd Street. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. Big Spring Reservoir. Simply wonderful. There are 44 campsites here. % 916-279-6101. some for RVs and some for tents. Set at 8. 735 Mill Street. Open May through October. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. for more information. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night.
US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. willing to risk death daily. carrying only a pistol. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart.. and Sacramento. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. 1861. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Want ads called for “Young.. Incredibly. Beginning in April 1860. wiry fellows not over eighteen. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. the gutsy riders. Orphans preferred.” Riders. California. pausing only long enough to change mounts. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. tore between stations. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. Bible and mail pouch. Joseph. On October 24. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . skinny.Pony Express Territory vada. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Missouri.
Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. Ranging in elevation from 3. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. ridges and valleys in the country. hiking and wildlife viewing.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. Just a few hours from Ely. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. .963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. But if you consider solitude. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. In the higher mountains. spans some of the most beautiful. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. Near the town of Ely. As might be expected. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. there is excellent skiing. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. glacier-carved peaks. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. this area has plenty to offer.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. so be prepared for anything. Great Basin. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. % 702-867-3500. 1050 South Maine Street. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. % 702-423-3677. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. below. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. (See On Water. % 702-423-5128. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. Over 14. pelicans. In peak years. White-faced ibis.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. April through December. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. canvasbacks. January through March. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. In recent years. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. green-winged teals.000 photographic images. Admission is free. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail.000 years. 1000 Auction Road. With 10.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon.000 people. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. Sunday. snowy plovers. . peregrine falcons. covers 77.
On the south end of town.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. The hunting season usually opens in October. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. is the artist in residence here. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Just off the highway are two short trails. Adam Fortunate Eagle. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. which features the famous Blue Angels. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. Just east of town. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. More than 21. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society.000 years ago. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. At press time. and “management” means hunting. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. Pony Express Territory . located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. Every spring. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. Over 8.
100 Campus Way.” meaning sword. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. Fallon. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. fauna. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. % 702-423-4556.” Booms. Near the station. % 702-423-2544. volcanic cliffs around it. 379 West William Avenue. roars and moans. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. about three miles past West Gate. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. but strenuous. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. listen for the mountain’s “singing. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. dark. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. geology and history of the region. the low. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. wild West. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. regularly emanate from the dune. NV 89406. Fallon. A hike to the precipice is a safe. NV 89406. If the roar of engines ever dies down. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. .
then to paved NV 376. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. NV 89310. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. Austin.350 feet. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. NV 89045. PO Box 1149.577 feet. Three miles later. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. Spencer’s Hot Springs. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. population about 300. % 702-964-2145. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road).000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. the boom was followed by the bust. PO Box 212. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. Austin is a quiet.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. then climbs again to Austin. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. Round Mountain. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . 13 miles east of Austin. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. However the rush began. As always. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. past Bob Scott campground. Six miles later. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. % 702-964-2200. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather.
which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. PO Box 212. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. % 702-964-2200. % 702635-4000. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. The limestone cavern. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. near Pete’s Summit. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. NV 89820. The hill is located on private land. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. At mile 55. is recommended for serious. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. experienced cavers only.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. After merging with Lower Mine Road. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. At mile 30. A series of safe. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. PO Box 1420. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. . the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50.500 years ago. NV 89310. Austin. A long. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. There is also a free campground here. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. Battle Mountain. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley.000 years ago. are open to visitors just off the road.
contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. Gold mines. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. PO Box 14. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. and the Jackson House Hotel. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. but most definitely worth a gander. By 1878. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. some a little less gloriously than others. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. dates from 1877. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. Eureka. The building. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. Still. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. Eureka’s population of 9. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. But by 1890 the rush was over. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. NV 89316. found in the valleys around Eurkea. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. Eureka. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). are still a major facet of the local economy. however. The shell of the building.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. The state’s No. completed in 1880 and still in use today. % 702-237-5484. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. Not until five years later. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters.
Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school.000 feet. US 50 rolls across basin and range. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. n Ely Back on US 50. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. PO Box 14. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. Situated at 9.500 residents. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. this mini-city (population about 5. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. Monday through Friday and by appointment. Eureka. % 702-237-5484. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. Entering town at night . A few miles farther south. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. NV 89316. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Pronounced EE-lee. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area.
There is primitive camping here. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. PO Box 150040. depot. Return to US 50. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. East Ely. % 702-289-2085. Pony Express Territory . taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. as well as an original. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin.300 feet. The White Pine Public Museum. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. furniture. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. located on East 11th Street. Since they went cold in the 1880s. On the other side of town. like many museums in this territory. Prices start at $10 per person. 2000 Aultman Street. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. % 702-2894710. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. running water. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. % 702-728-4467. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. NV 89301. former First Lady Pat Nixon. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. showers and hiking trails. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. The museum. Call for exact dates and times. accessories.50 per person. engine house. a bicycle. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. clothing. Tours of the railroad yard. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. Admission is free. depart on selected dates from May through September. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine.
a proposal to create a 6. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. That leads quickly to Baker. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. % 800496-9350. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. Most of the 77. 1986. From Baker. % 702-289-8877. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. untamed backcountry. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. For more information. In the 1950s a . Bristlecone Convention Center.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. In 1922. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. 636 Aultman Street.000 people a year visit the park. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. % 702-234-7331. 150 6th Street. Only about 70. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. While hikers are welcome. % 702-289-4865. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Designated a national park in October. sometimes by the hundreds. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. contact the Ely office of the BLM. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten.
in 1986. then head straight out of the park. The high-altitude campgrounds. .000 to 44.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months.000. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. flowstone and soda straws. are hard to beat. limited to 30 people at a time. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries.067-foot Wheeler Peak. Christmas and New Year’s Day. are held every day except Thanksgiving. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. % 702-234-7331. ski resorts and tramways. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. NV 89311-9702. Prices are $4 for adults. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. Congress settled on 77. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. While celebrating a victory.086-acre Great Basin National Park. Baker. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. Finally. below.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. $3 for juniors. Tours of the cavern. the park’s crown jewel. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. stalagmites. Call ahead for conditions. which is actually one huge cavern. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. too. or speleotherms: stalactites. draperies. among others. columns. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. (See On Foot and Camping. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy.
000 feet. Arc Dome. South Toiyabe Peak. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. . which can take a few days to get acclimated to. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. The garnets found here. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. a few of which are even of gem quality. or use paved NV 376. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. Millet Ranch.600 feet. To reach Garnet Hill. are spessartite. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. Carvers NW. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. Drive three miles to the recreation area. Bakeoven Creek. to reach the village of Kingston. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. which has picnic tables and shade trees. Tierney Creek.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. Set at 7. % 702-9642671. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead.
with many trails climbing above 10. % 702-289-3031 for more information. Pony Express Territory .067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain.000-acre. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. This is some serious highcountry hiking. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. After about 10 miles of hiking. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. set aside in 1989. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. windswept paths. as well as all the water you will need. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. If threatening clouds approach.000 feet along rocky. a unique. From the trailhead/parking area.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. leave the high country immediately. which at 12. 1. nausea. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. which may be impassable when wet. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. and Mount Moriah. which heads west toward the peak. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. Baker. is marked with trailhead signs. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. The wilderness. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. headache. The trail ends just before the summit.
063 feet. At 13. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. The bowl. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. Finally. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. To reach the summit. If it is safe to venture to the peak. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. Use extreme caution here. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. Continue straight. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. In 1878. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. then descends to Teresa Lake. the views of the 8. This is another depression etched by a glacier. the six-mile . then turn left again. the last 1. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. or cirque. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop.
A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. In good weather. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail.950 years. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. Kious Spring. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. once the site of some mining activity. To continue the loop hike. Around mile six.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. Wheeler Peak. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. . Return the way you came. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. Lehman Caves. subalpine conditions. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. To return to the trailhead. Turn left.926-foot Pyramid Peak. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. this is a nice overnight stop. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. After about three miles. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake.700 feet in the first seven miles. just off to the east. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road.
1707 Rice Road. 89301. 89301. 189 Aultman Street. % 702-4239215. 89301. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. % 702235-7439. Great Basin Inn. 1050 Aultman Street. 89301. % 702-664-2977. HC 34. 203 Heritage Drive. 3125 Stark Lane. 89406. 89301. PO Box 34005. Box 33570. PO Box 2560. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. % 702-289-4208. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. % 702423-9215. % 702-2893063. % 702-289-8886. a quartermile. 89406. HCR 33. . Wendover George A. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. Daum. 701 Avenue F. 2005 Harrigan Road. 89406. 89883. % 800-874-0903. J & P Auto Parts. is worth a gander. 5030 Reno Highway. Flying M Stables. As of presstime. Silver State Stables. 89301. Sportsworld. 89406. % 702-423-5185. % 702-238-5232. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 89406. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. % 702-289-4468. sells camping and outdoor equipment. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. Burdick Guide Service. White River Guide Service.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. Wildlife West Guide Service. % 702-423-6171. % 702-867-3388.
000 per year.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. Dune-buggy. For more information. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. NV 89310. population 300. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. PO Box 130. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. one would think tiny Austin. % 702-885-6000. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . The route runs north out of the canyon. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. the sixstory. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. NV 89310. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. A 10-mile loop with a 1.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. contact the BLM. For more information. % 702-964-2671. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. Austin. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. Austin. PO Box 504. brochures and campgrounds. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit.
The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. sells and services bicycles. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. for maps. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. From the pavement. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. . Don’t count on the creeks to be running. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. 1500 Aultman Street. past the US Forest Service station. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. and bring plenty of water. % 702-234-7331. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. directions and road conditions. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. % 702-289-8886. when the weather is dry. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker.
Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. where worms and corn are said to work best. Pony Express Territory . About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. The trout limit is 10. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. surrounds a 10. along with sportfishing. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. White crappie can be hooked March through May. In 1997. Boat ramps are located in two spots. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. % 702-688-1500. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. Lahontan State Recreation Area. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether.
via paved NV 376 and a three. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. % 702-289-4865. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. The Upper Reese River. Great Basin Inn. A few chain HO TE L . the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. 1050 Aultman Street. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. % 702-289-3063. % 702-289-4468. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. % 702-289-8886.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. is one of the biggest places in town. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. % 702-423-6031. $-$$.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. 855 West Williams Avenue. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. which feeds the lake. 701 Avenue F. J & P Auto Parts. 1500 Aultman Street. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. and one of the best bargains. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits.
% 702-423-2194. As you drive in from the west. % 702-964-2698. For a real blast from the past. the Pony Express House. a heated pool and interior corridors. The Eureka Motel.800 acres. who really cares. Smith Creek Ranch. is a modern. % 702-423-4254. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). the Budget Inn. which has 30 rooms. has 27 rooms. % 702-423-5554. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. $-$$. It is open seasonally. % 702-237-5247. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. the Lincoln Motel. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. % 702-237-5334. 180 West Williams Avenue. 70 East Williams Avenue. but after a long day on the road. rates and directions. % 702-9642605. combines a B&B with a private. $$. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. 1830 West Williams Avenue. $$$. % 702-964-2471. % 702-964-2306. $. $$$. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. a heated pool and a small casino. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. basic equipment. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. $-$$. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. and. while on the southern edge of town. $$.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. has 17 rooms. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. which has 17 rooms. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. On the east end of town. Call for information. instruction. The ranch. 1705 South Taylor Street. $. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. $. meals and overnight accommodations. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. % 702-237-5577. including the Comfort Inn. try Jackson House B&B. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . 25 North Taylor Street. % 702-423-5151. most of which are on US 50. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. also called Main Street here. has 21 rooms. % 702-423-2277. $-$$. the 22-room Value Inn. The Sundown Lodge. 115 Northwest Main Street. $-$$. which is north-south running US 95. which has 49 rooms. $-$$. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. The Nevada Belle Motel. with 10 rooms. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. % 702-423-4648. The red brick structure was built in 1877. called Main Street as it runs through town. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. $-$$. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms.
Ely With a population of more than 5.300. 500 High Street. $. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. the inn has five rooms with private baths. $-$$$. two-story hotel. 5th . which has 61 rooms. 701 Avenue I. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. the building was vacant 10 years later. $-$$. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. For a more genteel stay. $-$$.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. located on the south side of town off US 93. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. % 702-289-8838. The inn is open June through September. 501 Aultman Street. % 702-289-4884. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. is another living antique. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. 1101 Aultman Street. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. $. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. 1501 Avenue F. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. After years of dormancy. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. % 702-289-4747. There are also private balconies. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. and its twin. 770 Avenue O. % 702289-6671. % 702-289-6665. The Bristlecone Motel. 700 Avenue I. % 702-289-8900. % 702-289-4497. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. which has 19 rooms. $-$$. % 702-2891234. 220 East 11th Street. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. 930 Aultman Street. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. $$. For a more modern taste. $-$$. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. $$-$$$. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. % 702-289-8687. $-$$. % 702-237-9988. has 21 rooms. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days.
Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. guided tours and off-road adventures. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. % 702-234-7272. The Silverjack Motel. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. PO Box 90. % 702-234-7343. $. % 702234-7323. % 702-289-4411. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. % 702-234-7267. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. $-$$. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. along with horseback riding. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. % 702234-7300. even fast food joints are nonexistent.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. so call ahead for operating hours. $. and the White Pine Motel. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison.. is a favorite spot for travelers. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. what with its 29 rooms. % 702-289-3033. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. which has a laundromat and showers. $. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. the Border Inn.. % 702-234-7323. % 702-237-7302. Baker. 1301 Aultman Street. and Whispering Elms RV Park. with its seven rooms. $. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. It is open June through August. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. 150 4th Street. South of Baker at the national park boundary. % 702-289-3800. 24hour laundromat and showers. NV 89311. Utah. offers tipis and a campground. $-$$. and two others outside of Baker.er. Behind the Silverjack. .
% 702-867-2769. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. % 702-423-3233. serves up steaks. In 1929 and ’30. Café Nations. Smack in the center of town. % 702-423-3111. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. Kentucky Fried Chicken. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. 1560 West Williams Avenue. Tony’s. 1350 West Williams Avenue. specializing in omelets and steaks. If your mind is on pizza. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). The Depot Casino.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. The Mexican food at La Cocina. % 702-964-2220. 960 Auction Road. % 702-964-2493. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. try Mary’s Owl . is also open for three squares a day. 70 South Maine Street. The Fallon Nugget Casino. however. % 702-423-2117. is known throughout Fallon. have been serving great burgers. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. including McDonald’s. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. 1955 McClean Road. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. % 702-423-6166. % 702-867-3750. 125 South Maine Street. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. lunch and dinner. is Fallon’s only coffee house. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. % 702423-6828. % 702-964-9905. Stockman’s Casino. Open for breakfast. 4150 Reno Highway. is home to The Diner. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. In the 1920s and ‘30s. including the few eateries. Denny’s. The International Café and Bar. Toiyabe Café. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. 875 West Williams Avenue. % 702-423-5588. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. Carol’s Country Kitchen. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day.
Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. and is attached to a bar. % 702-867-2332. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. % 702-237-5356. 21. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. Lahontan State Recreation Area. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. % 702-964-2627. % 702-867-3636. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. serves a fine steak sandwich. 701 Avenue I. offers 45 sites. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. % 702-237-5477. however. % 702-289-4884.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. has 64 sites. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. located three miles north of town on US 93. 5787 Reno Highway. % 702-237-5280. and Orient Express. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. 501 Aultman Street. % 702-964-2412. West of Fallon. Believe it or not. and Hubtotel RV Park. % 702-289-3313. which features prime rib. % 702-688-1500. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. The Busy Bee Drive-In. serving diner-style grub. The Fireside Inn. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. top sirloin steak and eggs. 4800 Reno Highway. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. The Owl Club. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. Jerry Restaurant No. might as well top it off in Eureka. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. 562 Aultman Street. Fallon RV Park. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. 211 5th Street. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. % 702-289-6665. where the restaurants are also along US 50. is also open 24 hours a day. % 702-289-3905. % 702-289-3033. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. % 702-2289-3765. 2160 Aultman Street. % 702-289-4888. 1455 Aultman Street. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town.
None have running water.300 feet. Only six miles southwest of Ely.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. To reach Bird Creek campground. For information. NV 89310. About nine miles south of Big Creek. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. Austin RV Park. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. PO Box 1420. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. There is drinking water here. 24 miles east of Austin. set at 7. NV 89820. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. Bob Scott Campground. then go a mile to County Road 1059. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486.800 feet. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. % 702-964-1011. After a few miles. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. Finally. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. where there are eight campsites set at 7. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. Just east of the Eureka town limits. along with campfire rings. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. both off of US 50. % 702-964-2671. PO Box 130. Austin. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. % 702-635-4000.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. as there are no services near the water. North of Ely. Just east of town. There are 15 sites. There are 10 sites here . Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. which are open June through September with running water. grills. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek.500 feet. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. For more information and road conditions. Open April to October. picnic tables and vault toilets. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. Battle Mountain.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. No running water or firewood.
Set at 7. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. % 702-289-4865. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. and there are no showers. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. on US 93.300 feet. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres.250 feet). There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. and Valley View RV Park. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. In the center of the park. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435.752 feet. Upper Lehman. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. % 702-2893413. 350 8th Street. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. For more information.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. has 100 sites. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. On the northern edge of the park. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. NV. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. % 702-2893303. depending on weather conditions. Pony Express Territory . In Great Basin National Park. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7.886 feet. % 702-234-7331. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. There are 30 sites here at 7.530 feet. Ely. this is the only park campground open all year. % 702-2893031. To reach the campground from US 50. The BLM. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. 89301. Contact the visitors center. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station.
000 feet and more. Desert bighorn sheep. when University of Arizona researcher Dr.000-year-old duck decoys. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. The short. however. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. who described them as “lowly old giants. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. Throughout history. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. Named Methuselah. reaching as high as 11. sagebrushcovered sea. Edmund Schulman. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. Today in Cowboy Country. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years.700 years. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. the state animal.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. . call many parts of this high country home. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. the oldest living thing on earth. He found one living specimen dating back 4. not many of them stayed around very long.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. started pulling core samples. humans.
500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. Summers are generally hot and dry. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. towns like Winnemucca. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. and know how to use them.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. Elko headed the list of the 100 . lakes and reservoirs. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. Carry good maps and a compass. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. bass and other gamefish. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. In fact. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight.000 years. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. The weather here can be as wild as the land. bikers and equestrians. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. Winter brings rain and snow. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. In 1993. streams. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything.
Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. others moved on. The famous trail. but everyday tools. but thanks to new mining technology. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. took to sheepherding. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. lunch and dinner. followed by the doomed Donner Party. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. parts of which are still visible today. This is a place where pick-up trucks. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. after the riches ran out. paralleled the Humboldt River. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. combed Cowboy Country. including one named Samuel Clemens. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. both held in Elko. In late 1860s. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. But since the early days. Cowboy Country . Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers.
Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. about 17 miles from Lovelock. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. which the company named after him. George Lovelock. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush.000-square-mile Pershing County. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. which measures .300. arrived here in 1866. With a population of just over 2. Five miles southwest of the shelter. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. located on the southern outskirts of town. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. turn left on Derby Road. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. which crosses the Humboldt River. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. After eight miles. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. The seat of 6. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada.
Mummified remains were found here. which also features the community pool. Tufas. Admission is free. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. picnicperfect park. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. in 1886 or 1887. % 702-273-2713. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. dark. PO Box 821. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. many of which were donated by locals. are large. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. the first ever in the Great Basin. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. He may have been led there by Natchez. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. NV 89419. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. clothing and household items. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. Scientific excavations. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. Lovelock. One of only two round courthouses in the country. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse.
see below under Adventures. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. About 16 families reside in Unionville. as well as opportunities for boating. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. Open all year. PO Box 821. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. NV 89419. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. After later taking the name Mark Twain. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. where stone . below) and wellmanicured homes. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. Lovelock.134 n Cowboy Country vada. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. For details. is centered on this man-made lake. fishing and camping. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. % 702-273-2713. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. which seems close enough to touch. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. % 702-538-7321. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months.
celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. Edna Purviance. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. % 702/623-2225. dancing. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. From here it’s five miles to the town. % 702-623-2912. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. They later brought their families. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. a former resident. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. Winnemucca (population 7. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. a good spot for a picnic. Curator . Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. Today their descendants.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. the Humboldt Museum complex. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. Admission is free. To reach Unionville from I-80. except for lunch.
Winnemucca. St. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. % 800-962-2638. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. Winnemucca.000 in gold. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. 95 Bridge Street. % 702623-5025. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. was erected in 1863. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. NV 89445. The thieves escaped to Texas. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. Like something out of old Mexico. US Forest Service. 352 Bridge Street. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. There is a gift shop next door. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. The former First National Bank. Winnemucca. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. NV 89445. one of two in the country. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. 602 Bridge Street. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. The tour visits 30 sites. % 702-623-1500. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. NV 89445. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. Winnemucca. NV 89445. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. . % 702-623-5025. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. 705 East Fourth Street.000. Another gem is the Shone House. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. nabbing $32. along with a thank you note. but all are easily drivable.
Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. the town was an empty shell. The Rochester Mining District. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. established Scottsdale in 1866. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. which .000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. The camp was abandoned by 1869. Today about 100 people live in town. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. A 20th-century ghost town. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet.300 people had moved by 1913. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. Jungo. Midas is two miles from this junction. To reach the remains of the camp. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. and 2. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. all but 250 people left. which serves as a meeting place and information center. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. Three years later the village became Paradise City. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. after fending off resident Paiutes. once a busy town of more than 2.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. along with the local watering hole.
offers a bar. After all. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. (See Adventures and Camping. beautiful high-country lake. % 702-623-5025.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. Basque . It’s the white. fishing and camping. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. (See Adventures. A state park. this is Cowboy Country. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. located on the extreme east end of town.) In town.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. Paradise Saloon. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. % 702-7383418. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. % 702-578-3381. this town of about 25. In Winnemucca.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. is easy to locate.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. 1515 Idaho Street. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. biking. however. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. Gas is also available. obtain maps. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. The local mining. verdant marshes. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. Just south of town. sometimes an angler’s paradise. deli and soda fountain. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown.
Admission is free. geography. along with various other events throughout the year. % 702-738-5131. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. Deweys Rent-A-Car.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. 1 PM to 5 PM. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. 501 Railroad Street. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here.Touring n 139 immigrants. % 800-331-1212. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. geology and industry abound. % 800-453-9417.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. For airport information. The Western Folklife Center. % 702-738-7123.C. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. and Sunday. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. El Aero Services. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. . and a charter airline. Displays of local wildlife. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. % 800-8727245. % 702-738-7508. also known as J. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. Hertz Rent-A-Car. Harris Field. % 800-654-3131. 9 AM to 5 PM. 10 AM to 5 PM.
% 702-753-0200. From town. 89801.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. including the remote.800 feet). This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. At the . set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. located southeast of Elko. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. 89803.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. (See Adventures and Camping. 89801. Humboldt National Forest. Elko. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. From Elko. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. 976 Mountain City Highway. % 702-738-5171. 3900 East Idaho Street. % 800-248-ELKO. Elko Chamber of Commerce. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. 90. Elko. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. 700 Moren Way. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. with elevations ranging up to 11. % 702-738-7135. Elko. passing Powerhouse picnic area. Elko. 89801. fishing and camping in the entire West. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. 1601 Idaho Street. Alpine vistas.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. making for some of the most beautiful hiking.387 feet at Ruby Dome.
follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down.500 people flooded into the region. Even when they are open. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. U-shaped valley. this town sticks to Mountain Time. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. rising 11.Touring n 141 crest. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. and there’s no argument here. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. . The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. so drive cautiously. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. turns south. or call them at % 702-488-2315. the road meets the Jarbidge River. For access to both. (See On Foot. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. More than 1. Nevada. see below.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. and by the 1930s the rush was over. Ruby Dome. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. From the south. From Wells. down into Jarbidge Canyon. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. then north another 25 miles. is spectacular. The road leads east 21 miles. Idaho. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. Yes.387 feet. is visible in the west. a high clearance vehicle is required. For details on all of this. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. check with the owners of the Trading Post. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho.
Cool.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. Bonneville Speedway Museum. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. reached easily via a paved highway.) On the Utah side of the state line. % 702-752-3215. % 801-665-7721. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. however. both available at the Trading Post. For ghost town fans. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Before entering town. stare out across the famous. n Wendover From Wells. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. The range is also home to Angel Lake. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . exit at No. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. the presence of casinos. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. try Stuart’s Foodtown.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. and the 37. This is also the junction of US 93. the 44. which rises to 11. The town was abandoned in 1942. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. the main artery running up the east side of the state. head east from the border. To access the flats. 4 and go five miles northeast. Sunday until 9 PM. n Wells From Elko. 647 Humboldt Avenue. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. of course. the main difference between the two sides being.
000 buckaroos. June Both hay. % 702-664-3414. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. which gains 1. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. which attracts upwards of 10. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. is held in late March or early April. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. falcons and ospreys are common. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. a . The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. the historic World War II B-29s.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Eagles. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. hawks. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. The night before the events. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels.600 feet in two miles.
The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. There is a traditional dance contest. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. . under Touring. July In July. In Wendover. call % 702-635-8245. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month.. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. featuring food. when tanks. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. The largest Basque get-together in the US. six. For details. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. dancing. Near Wendover. Phone numbers can be found above. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. a parade and feats of strength. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. hear the music and eat the food. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park.or 23-mile loop. Unless otherwise indicated. The town of McDermitt. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information.
lupine and leopard lilly are common here. Pronghorn antelope. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. Star Peak. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. To reach the trail. This makes for a great loop drive. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. To reach the trailhead. crossing Buffalo Creek. 1994. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. Granite Peak (elevation 9. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. Star Peak (elevation 9. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca.000 feet in four miles. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon.200 feet. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. willow and cottonwood country. leads due east toward the highest point. The first half of the moderately strenous. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. The trail is punishing. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. climbing more than 4. The trailhead appears after three miles. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. From the top. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. Aspen. Chartered in 1989. From here.732) is the highest point. Falcon Press Publishing. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. which . passable by high-clearance vehicles.834 feet). including the 31.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. the road.
Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. Come prepared for anything. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October.415). USGS 7. Hikers can visit rock peaks. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. cirque basins. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. including Singas Creek.6 miles to a parking area. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek.800 feet above sea . keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. big horn sheep. % 702-623-5025. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. glacial lakes. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable.” Elevations range from 6. Horses are welcome on these trails. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. Mountain lions. Return the way you came. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. narrow canyons. depending on weather conditions. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. descends toward a watercourse. where you turn south. more than 10. about one mile south of town. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family.
sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. At 10. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. set at 9.300-foot . to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead.Adventures n 147 level. The 1. % 702-752-3357. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). Hyslop. as there are no trout here. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. and his dog Molly. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. this is the high point of the trek. of course. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. so check road conditions before heading out. Franklin Lake NW. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. The pass is often closed in winter. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. The five-mile. % 702-738-7135. After about a mile and a half.400 feet.400 feet and heads north. Feel free.500 feet. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. From Roads End. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. Pause to rest but not to fish. know this region as well as anyone. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier.
The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6.700 feet. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. Finally.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. On a good day. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. Idaho. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. subalpine forests. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. the closest town. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. Return the way you came. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. Most of the paths are found in the 113. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. Just past the spring. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. Wild- . Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. Unfortunately. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site.000 feet to 10. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination).000-foot mark. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. From the trailhead. The trail drops again. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. The site has a paved boat ramp. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. supports brook. Channel cats. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. mountain whitefish. brown and rainbow trout. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. To reach the lake from Elko. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. call % 702-758-6493. rainbows. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. % 702-623-5025. and black bass have become a favorite catch. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. campsites and restrooms. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . Fishing is best in spring and early summer. is also a good fishing spot. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. and everything is open year-round. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. For more information. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko.
brook trout also run in Angel Creek. trumpeter swam. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. At the foot of the range. white-faced ibis. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer.800 feet. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. Within six miles of the trailhead. short-eared owl and American kestrel. contact the US Forest Service. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road.154 n Cowboy Country ers. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. For more information.000 acres. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. Turn left and head south 32 miles. elevation 8. including bald and golden eagle. midway between the northern and southern portions. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. For an easier drive from Wells. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. so check road conditions before heading out. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. . To reach the refuge from Elko. Angel Lake Near Wells. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. % 702-738-5171. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. great sandhill crane. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter.
% 702-7442277. 89801. 89801. the spring-fed. HC 60. % 702-625-2453. PO Box 515. 89833. To reach the 2. catfish. % 702779-2226. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. % 702-777-DIVE. the bowcut trout. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. Rainbow. HC 60. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. have become a local haven for divers. % 702-7382775. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. Elko Guide Service. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. In warmer months. 2511 Mountain City Highway. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. 89801. Grandview Marine. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. % 702-7388473. 1250 Lamoille Highway. % 702779-2268. HC30 Box 17 #13. % 702-664-3414. For more information. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. are the best bets here. 423 South Bridge Street. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. Raley’s. 285 12th Street. Secret Pass Outfitters. crystalline Blue Lakes. 89801.400-acre lake. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. PO Box 685. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . 89833.
then head west for five miles to town. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. not to mention 74 rooms. Lunch and dinner are extra. % 702-753-6867.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. ranging from 5. $$$. lounge. % 702-738-7135.200 feet. % 800-528-1234. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range.000 acres of skiable mountain.500 to 6. 1420 Cornell Avenue. 55 Cornell Avenue. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. covering 5. with a 24-hour casino. % 702-538-7585. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. offers 130 acres of terrain. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. The Lovelock Inn. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. depending on snowfall. Trips are limited to 16 people. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. Although there isn’t a television to be found.200 vertical feet. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. restaurant. 2805 Unionville Road. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko.500 feet. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. % 702-273-2937. The outfit boasts 5. is the most happening place in town. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. To reach the ranch from I80. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. lodging and all the extras. one tame and the other decidedly not so. $-$$. is convenient to I-80. Elko SnoBowl. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. . $$. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. pool and jacuzzi. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast.
and the Model T Motel. $$-$$$. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. $$. % 800-346-5306. $$$$$. basic motels on the main drag. with 150 rooms. The Gold Country Inn. 2065 Idaho Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. the Gold Country Motor Inn. restaurant and bar. % 800-633-6435. in- . $$-$$$$.000. is for you. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. a pool and 223 rooms. offers 40 rooms. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. $-$$. offering 70 rooms. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. 3015 Idaho Street. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. There are plenty of cheap. $-$$. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. % 800-645-5658. eateries. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-5248. $$-$$$. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. 837 Idaho Street. the 80-room Val-U Inn. % 800-545-0044. the Red Lion Inn. $$-$$$. a lounge with live entertainment. The Red Lion not only has a casino. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. % 800-262-8901. Casino Express. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. % 702-623-3646. $-$$. restaurant and full bar. the 170-room Holiday Inn. 400 1st Street. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. the Ameritel Inn Elko. and the Days Inn. and the Motel 6. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. $$. % 702-7387261. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. including the queen of Elko establishments. % 702-738-8787. % 702-738-8425. $$$. % 702-623-1116. % 702-623-1180. $$. 2050 Idaho Street. casino. % 702-623-3661. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 1930 Idaho Street. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. There are also two Best Westerns. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. the Red Lion Inn. $$. % 702-738-8421. and the Holiday Motel. and the generic. % 702-625-1818. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. but also its own charter airline. $$. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. starting with the two biggies. the Super 8. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard.
which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. restaurants. 345 Idaho Street. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. 2401 Mountain City Highway. some with kitchenettes. Lamoille. $$$$. Jiggs Guest Ranch. a swimming pool. % 702-738-7115. % 702-738-5522. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. Away from Idaho Street. There are 141 rooms. Red’s Ranch. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. is an exclusive. % 702-753-6363. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. $$. % 702-738-8488. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. $-$$. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. detached cabin with jacuzzi. including skeet shooting. $$$-$$$$. $-$$. $$$-$$$$. 89828. has 70 rooms. % 702-753-6356. along with a pool. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. % 702-753-6281. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. $$$-$$$$. There is even space for campers and RVers. bar and pool. Stockmen’s Hotel. PO Box 281381. 340 Commercial Street. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. biking and horseback riding. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. $$-$$$. hiking and fly fishing. jacuzzi and fitness center. $$.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. . $$-$$$. 1755 Idaho Street. PO Box 281208. Just outside of Lamoille. % 702-738-5141. % 702-578-3530. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. The Shilo Inn. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. and the Thunderbird Motel. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. $-$$. Stonehouse Country Inn. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large.
% 702-7523065. $-$$. Cottonwood Ranch. % 702-4082338. HC 62. % 702-488-2311. 89826. % 702-752-3384. the Rest Inn Suites. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. 326 6th Street. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. $-$$. Together . Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. % 702-752-2277. There are 57 rooms. Jarbidge. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. $-$$. % 702-752-2101.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. has 56 rooms. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. and the Best Western Sage Motel. PO Box 260090. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. % 702-752-3353. On the north side of town. the Outdoor Inn. 456 6th Street. PO Box 1300. There are more than 1. $$-$$$. $$-$$$. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. $$$-$$$$. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. % 702-752-3604. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. and the Old West Inn. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. On Main Street. 100 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-752-2116. most of them planted along 6th Street. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. if you’re into chains. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. For more information. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. 930 6th Street. $. $-$$$$. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. 576 6th Street. even by the neighbors in Utah. which also has a restaurant and bar. % 800-848-7300. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. % 702-752-3888. If not. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. HC 62. the Chinatown Motel. offers another 24 rooms. $. % 702-488-2315.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. $. PO Box 300. % 702-752-2151. 1250 East 6th Street. $. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. The Super 8. Down the street. $-$$.
750 Cornell Avenue. 485 Cornell Avenue. pool and jacuzzi. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. which basks in the Basque tradition. 9 PM on Sunday. % 702-273-2442. live showroom entertainment. . 410 Cornell Avenue. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. a 14. which has live entertainment.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. leg of lamb. % 800-537-0207.000-square-foot casino. $-$$. and until 2 PM on Sunday. offers breakfast. In the center of town. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. Nearby. and Pizza Factory. % 702-273-3232. 680 Wendover Boulevard. a health club. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. 260 Maine Street. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. jacuzzi. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. $$-$$$. shrimp and Basque side dishes. % 702-623-3197. Wee B’s Pizza & More. 1420 Cornell Avenue. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. with 90 rooms. % 702-664-2888. La Casita. including restaurants and lounges. % 702-273-7444. % 702-273-2971. Mexican food and pizza. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. lunch and dinner. lounges. serving steak. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. The Peppermill Hotel. is open until 10 PM every day. restaurants. % 800-648-9660. along with daily specials. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. $$. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. the Super 8. live entertainment. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. is another gamer’s haven. pool. % 702-273-7773. tennis courts.
Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. The atmosphere is definitely casual. all of their meat is cut to order. 405 Silver Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. 1550 Idaho Street. % 702-623-4440. 1061 West Fourth Street. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. Restaurante San Fermin. 340 Commercial Street. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 180 Melarkey Street. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. % 702-623-2908. Toki Ona. % 702-738-3214. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. Specializing in steak. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. % 702-623-3455. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. seafood and chicken. % 800-545-0044. % 702-623-6777. Stockmen’s Hotel. % 702-623-2977. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. This being ranch country. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. % 702-623-4104. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. but get there before 1 PM. % 702-738-5141. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. China Garden. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. home of the world’s largest potato field. . Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. Elko The Red Lion Inn. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. while The Griddle. % 702-738-9691. Another Basque establishment. % 702-625-2555. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 95 South Bridge Street. since 1863. The Steak House. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. 2065 Idaho Street.
La Fiesta. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). % 702-488-2311. 9 Beans and a Burrito. depending on weather conditions. % 702-753-6356. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. % 702-738-1622. Pine Lodge. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. also serves hearty meals. Burger Bar. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. % 702-738-7898. opens daily at 11 AM. to peruse the ornate bar. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. . Main and Humboldt Streets. 217 Idaho Street. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. % 702-752-3210. 780 Commercial Street. Pizza Barn.300 souls. 2525 Mountain City Highway. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. delivers on its name. % 702-753-6363. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. 1740 Mountain City Highway. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. If you crave Mexican food. % 702-7382541. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. % 702-4882315. % 702-753-3877. % 702-738-7088. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. where it survived The Big One in ’06. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. Prices range from moderate to expensive. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens.
% 800-848-7300. Sites 22. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. The Peppermill Hotel. $8 for a two-family site. 22 miles north of Lovelock. The fee is $7 per night. call % 800-962-2638. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. For modern hunter-gatherers.600 feet. For more information. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. two beautiful US Forest Service . the area has two campgrounds. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. There is running water and vault toilets. For more information. located at the end of Hanson Street. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. For more information. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. 27 and 29 are especially good. 23. 680 Wendover Boulevard. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. call % 702-738-5171. call % 702-538-7321. 100 Wendover Boulevard. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca.400 feet. including the ubiquitous casino buffet.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. Set at 7. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. offer 12 different restaurants. The main draw here is 11.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. $3 per night in winter. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. which holds trout and walleye. Set at 7. % 800-648-9660. Fees are $7 per night in summer. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. The other one. just north of the dam. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. 25.
located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. % 702-752-3357. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. Set at 8. The campground. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. first-served sites. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. % 208-5434129. The cabins are open October through mid-May. has 37 first-come. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. . and are open June to October. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. all free. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. One mile north of town. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. About five miles up NV 225.500 feet. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. and the fee is $8 per night. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. with running water. including three run by the US Forest Service. depending on the availability of running water. For information on the above campgrounds.800 feet and is popular with anglers. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. The fee is $5 per night.900 feet. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. offering 18 sites with running water. and the fee is $7 per night. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. Angel Creek is set at 6. but no running water. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. For more information. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5.
Meanwhile. writer. are in a state of “arrested decay. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. who once roamed this entire area. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. like Belmont and Rhyolite. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. an 11. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. US For- B Pioneer Territory . both socially and physically. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. however. Others. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. like Silver Peak and Goldfield.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. and six state parks to explore. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. Department of Defense. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. Rocky Mountain elk. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. Toiyabe. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. Nevada Division of State Parks. affordable housing . desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah.Touring n 167 est Service. but the rest of the country.000. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. low taxes. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. then limber pine at higher elevations. In the lowlands. Geographically. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. People and services are scarce. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. In the Mojave Desert.
for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. In 1997. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. % 702-7276900. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. mission-style. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. only winery in Nevada. % 702-727-5800. % 702-751-0821. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. as of this writing.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. % 702-7270896. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. The 22. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. 1141 South Highway 160. is the first and. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. contact the Chamber of Commerce. 1771 Sagehen Road. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. 3810 Winery Road. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. According to Winona LaDuke. It’s also one of the hottest. blue and white building. authorizing up to 90.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. there’s no competition). On the south end of town in a modern.
coots. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. including ducks. prairie falcons. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. % 702-372-5435.300 spread over 545 square miles. It’s no easy job. inaccessible to the general public. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. Box 610Z. NV 89020. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. however. whitefaced ibises. Amargosa Valley. % 702-372-1131. snipe. and the second-greatest in all of North America. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. . Visitors can. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. great blue herons. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. for some handmade Mexican food. then head west for about 20 miles. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. mallards. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. coyotes and rabbits. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. moorhens. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. HCR 70. following the signs to Ash Meadows.
and the old train depot. for more information. % 702-3725459.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. 50 saloons.000 claims over 30 square miles. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. maps. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. three newspapers. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. Amargosa Valley. 19 hotels. Kelly’s Bottle House. % 702-5532200. the gray. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked.000. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. . Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. Now recognized as a state historic site. HC 70. NV 89020.000. PO Box 6102. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building.
It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. keeping a population of more than 20. turn-of-the-century frontier community. Once the largest city in the state. . a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. Goldfield Founded in 1902. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches.000 dizzy with gold fever. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper.000. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. life-size. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. constructed in 1908 for $500.” a collection of white. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. % 702-553-2424. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. when the money ran dry. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. Local residents were used as models. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. In the first decade of the 20th century. crystal chandeliers. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. Today the remains of stone buildings. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. By 1920. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. however.
% 702-485-6365. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. and spend a few hours following its trail. % 702482-3558. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. including the old post office that is now the local museum. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. however. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. Before heading out. built in 1908 and still in use today.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. . more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. 301 Brougher Avenue. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. the Central Nevada Museum. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. and east-west-running US 6. % 702-482-9676.
Located on the north edge of town. In 1911. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. which total more than 260. The museum is open daily. Like many Nevada locales. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. and the 1907 George A. call % 702-482-5355. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. the town exploded – figuratively – and . Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday.000 acres. which dates to 1906. For more information. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. Bartlett House. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. see below under On Foot. are available by special request. photographs and exhibits. including a map room. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. A library. slide show and research facilities. Admission is free. power plants.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. with Hawthorne the new seat. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. Mineral. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. As this is being written. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. As a judge. which helped put the state on the map. ore bins. 9 AM to 5 PM. For more on these wonderful regions.
174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. at the corner of 10th and D streets. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. Near the northern tip of the lake. % 702-945-5142. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era.) Before heading to the lake. the town boasted 1. rocks. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s.500 people. cameras and photography. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. paved road on the right. To see where it all started. % 702-945-3266. restaurant and Native American gift shop. however. below. To reach Candelaria. is nearby Walker Lake. wildlife and fossils. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. 898 E Street. fire and railroad equipment. At the zenith of its existence. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. noon to 4 PM in winter. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. (See On Water.000. Victorian furniture. Nevada seat and the Mono . just three miles from the California border. and by 1890 the good times were over. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. Admission is free. The museum is open Monday through Friday. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. The Mineral County Museum. minerals. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. The main attraction. Take this road six miles to the town. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle.000 residents. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. a combination truck stop.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. The 2. native plants and unique rock formations. From .Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. Boats are not recommended. pinyon and juniper forests. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. set at 5.200 feet. The park. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. below). three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. From Caliente. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. along with many other events. located in a long. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. There are 42 campsites. but travel is not advised during winter months. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. % 702-728-4467. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. All of them offer overnight camping. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. is open year-round. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. For information on any or all.
Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. true believers theorize. hazy afternoon. The original building costs totaled $16. for a walking/driving tour map. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. government cover-ups. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. Winter travelers might also find snow here. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. All told. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869.000. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are .180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. % 702-962-5215. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. There are 37 campsites. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. From Caliente. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. men in black and all things conspiratorial. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. they ran up to $1 million. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. Packed with historic points of interest.
where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. a thought scarier than any little green men. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. sleeping quarters. a bar and cemetery. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . If you’re in the neighborhood. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. or fish lizards. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. selling souvenirs and literature. including the old mill. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. The park is open all year. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. Ichthyosaurs. % 702-729-2515. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. Memorial Day through Labor Day only.
The trail seems faint at times. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. August. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. The trail climbs nearly 2.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. turn right. Located in the relatively dry. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. To reach the park from Hawthorne. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. to NV 884.000 feet in 3½ miles. From here go seven miles to a junction. up through the sparse forest of . From here. then half a mile east. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. The hike begins on the road. travel west six miles to NV 773. where desert bighorn sheep. mountain lion. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. following a stream into Trail Canyon. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. June. There are numerous access points to the 115. the highest point in Nevada at 13. call % 702-867-3001. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. October and November.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. deer. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. For more information. Interpretive tours are held in March. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. April. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south.140 feet. through Gabbs. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. elk. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. July. Return the way you came. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road.
The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. . the trail gains 1. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. About 500 yards beyond the mill. The 38. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. The main trail leads straight ahead. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). continues a steep ascent to another saddle. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead.020-foot Peavine Peak. Consult Toms Canyon. The path descends further. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. USGS quads for Carvers NW. up and up alongside the South Twin River. pinyon pine and juniper. and at higher elevations. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. limber pine. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. Pine Creek.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. another narrow. nine miles from the trailhead. too. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast.361-foot Arc Dome. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. where it crosses the water several times.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. About a mile and a half later.
It was used as a hunting camp 5. . literally and figuratively. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. In fact. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. Turn left and head toward the highest point. After turning west.949 feet above sea level. deer and coyote. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. The high point. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. which marks the way to Pine Creek. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. The summit trail. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. going west. mountain lion. Return the way you came. south. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. 11. which tops out at 11. From Tonopah. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. is imposing Mount Jefferson. is lined with aspen and birch.000 years ago. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk.
turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). Elk. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain.856foot Monitor Peak. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. set aside in 1989. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. The trail first splits at mile three. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. with Dry Lake off to the west. To complete a nice loop hike. climbing up the creek drainage. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . From the trailhead. The 98. The main trail continues straight ahead. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. Hikers should have maps and a compass. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. so travel with care. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. This is remote. rugged country. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. and the skills to use them. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. Head north 26 miles to Belmont.000 acres. As you’ll see.
in Echo Canyon State Park. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. . Wilderness Press. crosses the water and begins a steep. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. 1997. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. then continue south two miles back to the campground. refer to Michael C. Also close by. White’s masterful book. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Meanwhile. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. Once atop the plateau. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. % 702-4826286. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Enjoy the views. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. some will lead hikes and photography trips. then descending into Ash Canyon. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. the route goes generally north and east to a junction.
Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. Berg. Galvin. Howard. Just beyond the right-of-way. 89045. % 702-283-7797. PO Box 428. Box 77206.108 feet. Timberline Outfitters. which. Round Mountain William A.. PO Box 162. PO Box 725. then continues south to a junction. Timberline Outfitters. Mustang Outfitters. climbing into a small valley. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. James S. Smith. % 702-964-1207. Roy Lerg. 89025. Expeditions Unlimited. leaving a strenuous. Grand Slam Safaris. Yerington Marty S. 89049. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. % 702-964-2145.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. 89045. 89049. PO Box 1149. 89447. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Mason Valley Guide Service. . % 702-465-2598. you’ve gone too far. unmarked hike to the summit. Moapa Adam R. PO Box 168. % 702-482-6422. turn left and head due south. Lund Gary Luisetti. 8½ miles from US 95. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. 89430. 27 Smith Gage Road. 89317. PO Box 65. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. at 9. % 702-482-6258. Lewis. (If you pass Millers. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Nicholas Perchetti. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. The road turns east briefly. % 702-463-4497. Jr. HCR 60. Stahl.
% 702-482-6331. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. A few dozen people still live in the area. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. Belmont saw most of the 2. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. is open for business on weekends. Continuing north. For road conditions. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377.000 to construct in 1876. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Just north of Pine Creek. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. known for abundant wildlife. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. so keep your distance. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. however. The other ruins are on private property. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. which was first settled in the 1860s. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote .188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. The Belmont Saloon. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. % 702377-2490. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. Manhattan boomed. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. and Pine Creek. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson.
Three hot pools are found on two acres here. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. % 702-482-7800. the fauna changes to ponderosa. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. .Adventures n 189 as it is unique. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. Continuing north. Take an unpaved road . ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). Wilson National Back Country Byway. As tempting as a bath might seem. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. but check on road conditions before you go. From Pioche. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. Not only is the water very hot. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. stay out. The springs are half a mile away.2 mile west of Lockes going south. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. mountain mahogany and aspen. For more information contact the BLM. Pioneer Territory Mt. then part of Utah Territory. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. to establish missions.
Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. contact the BLM. Just a mile north of Dyer. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. cutthroat and rainbow trout. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. 5340 South Oakridge Road.140-foot Boundary Peak. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. % 702-727-8276. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. % 702727-4504. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. Information Sources For more information and a map.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. brown. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. 13. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. % 702289-4865. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. At Oakridge Landing. Two of the best spots are Peavine . Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout.
Fishing derbies are held in February. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. however. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. After the road peters out.4 miles). October and November. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9.000 acres. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. Covering 37. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon.7 miles north of Hawthorne). % 702-482-6286. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. rainbow and brown trout.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles).Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. April. . while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. picnic facilities and boat ramp. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. The lake is named for Joe Walker. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. In fact. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s.
popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. largemouth bass and white crappie. Kathleen L.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. but motors are prohibited. 633 Schley Street. Boaters are welcome. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Howe. while Canada geese. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). Hawthorne. % 760-872-2533 . NV 89415. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. which are stocked in spring and fall. % 702-394-4040. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Contact the refuge office. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. Bishop. for details. Classic Anglers. Brown trout. are the main attraction here.000 acres. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. CA. write the group at PO Box 867. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. about 13 miles south of the confluence. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. 93514. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. % 702-725-3417. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area.
who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. PO Box 65. 89447.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. James S. PO Box 1149. 89045. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. Nicholas Perchetti. 89049. % 702-482-6258. HCR 60. Box 77206. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. Tonopah Stanley R. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. The big enchilada is Saddle West. Howard. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. % 702-889-8844. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . Advance reservations are highly suggested. Timberline Outfitters. home on the range. The family-style outings.. 89045. % 702-3721717. Mustang Outfitters. Berg. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. % 702-964-2145. PO Box 168. Stahl. Jr. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. at least temporarily. % 702-482-6422. Galvin. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Mason Valley Guide Service. 1220 South Highway 160. Timberline Outfitters. Suite 9B. % 702-964-1207. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. PO Box 725. 89104. 89049. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A.
604 Main Street. 1201 South Highway 160. including a heated pool. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. % 702-727-5100. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. casino and lounge. $-$$. % 702-553-2250. % 702553-2912. $-$$. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. along with a pool and honeymoon room. non-smoking rooms and a pool. The Exchange Club Motel. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. With 110 rooms. a convenience store. There are 60 rooms. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. $-$$. Highway 160 at Loop Road. $. Don’t worry. In short. which has 30 rooms and a pool. % 702-553-2333. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. US 95 at First Street. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. $. lounge. The other two motels are the El Portal. was built in 1905. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. . offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. $-$$. $-$$. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. has 32 rooms. A lounge with live entertainment. hair salon. a restaurant. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. $-$$. % 702-4853431. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. though. 420 West Main Street. $-$$. % 702-727-5445. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. $-$$. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. 9000 North 5th Avenue. a casino with live 21. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. % 800-508-9493. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. while the inn offers laundry services. % 702-553-2225.
$-$$. including four two-bedroom units. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. % 702482-5920. at very reasonable rates. 1 Cliff House Road. $. and the sprawling Station House. Even dogs are welcome. and the 33-room Clown Motel. $. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. a restaurant and free coffee. % 702-482-6224. % 702-945-2660. % 702-482-3577. 700 Main Street. two restaurants. 1100 Main Street. The Jim Butler Motel. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. with a restaurant. $. which has 93 rooms. $. a restaurant and bar. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. 255 Main Street. Dating back to 1908.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. the Butler has 25 rooms. with 40 rooms. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. has been catering to travelers since 1943. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. % 702-482-6291. free movies and is close to the convention center. Just a block away. $$. Location. lounge with entertainment. % 702-482-3511. This place has it all: 75 rooms. a heated pool and a small play area. RV hookups. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. 540 F Street. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. restaurants. 100 South Main Street. 100 North Main Street. 826 Main Street. If you’re into chains. % 702-945-3352. pool and free in-room coffee. RV parking and free continental breakfast. has 39 rooms. also has a pool. $. arcade and laundry. % 702-482-9777. % 702-482-6238. The . $. 1301 5th Street. a Jacuzzi and a pool. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. location. Adjacent to Walker Lake. 323 Main Street. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. % 702-945-2444. a casino. $. a casino. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. 521 North Main Street. % 702-482-6202. Some of the larger. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. $$. comes highly rated. % 702-945-3321. workout equipment. 1402 5th Street. There are 103 rooms. It has 94 rooms. The Best Western Desert Lodge. lounge. $. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. $.
$$. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. % 800-346-4611. The Casa Blanca. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. 694 Sierra Highway. including dozens of suites. and the Rocket. % 702-945-2143. % 702-465-2341.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. airport shuttle. tennis courts. $$. various restaurants. $.900 or so residents. $-$$. 965 Sierra Highway. formerly Players Island. a pair of family-style restaurants. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. 950 Mesquite Boulevard.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. % 800-621-0187. RV park and four bungalows. % 800-346-7721. Run by the Masini family. a pool. movie theater and kids’ play area. 39 North Center Street. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. % 702-465-2573. restaurants. $.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. % 800-896-4567. $$-$$$. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. has 700 rooms. has five rooms. % 702-945-3316. which at last count had 1. % 702-346-7444. with a 24-hour casino. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. $$-$$$. % 702-463-2481. has 67 rooms. with blueprints for hundreds more. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. Jacuzzi. a golf course. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. $$. bars. a pool and a hot tub. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. $-$$. family fun center and an airport shuttle. $-$$. golf course. 720 Sierra Highway. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. fitness center and live music. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. $. entertainment. pool. . 301 Mesa Boulevard. which has 14 rooms. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. on the corner of 5th and J streets. % 702-463-2991. 11 North Main Street. $. Jacuzzi. 2827 Highway 208. % 702-945-2573. % 702-463-2998. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. To find a quieter environment. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. % 702-945-2544. $-$$$. the Hawthorne. $$-$$$. $-$$. Just west of Smith in Wellington. 390 North Sandhill Road. which has 14 rooms. pool and movie theater. a lounge. live entertainment. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. pool and spa. % 702-465-2959. pool. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. Jacuzzi. bowling alley. which has two non-smoking rooms. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. a 925-seat showroom.
there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. pharmacy and bank. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. which has five rooms. and welcomes pets. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. the Silver Spur. and the buffet starts at $2. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. % 702-751-7777. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. $. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. % 702-726-3291. % 702-727-7300. % 702-729-2515. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. $-$$. % 702-727-2404. % 702726-3777. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. % 702-9625404. . 884 A Street. 100 LaCour Street. also have full-service restaurants. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. % 702-727-0909. Besides. % 702-962-5551.99. % 702-727-6440. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. Stagestop Casino. is open 24 hours a day. At Saddle West Casino. $. has 13 rooms. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. $. a restaurant and bar. Rose Garden. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. 1220 South Highway 160.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. % 702-727-7777. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. $. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. No fast food. 100 West Stagecoach Road. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. Flying saucer parking is out back. $-$$. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. % 702-726-3106. 450 Front Street. 601 South Highway 160. which has 22 rooms. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town.
1100 Main Street. % 702-5532225. you could do worse than El Marques. % 702-482-6202. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. % 702-553-2111. The Station House. % 702-945-3908. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. 923 5th Street. The Exchange Club. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. is the home of two restaurants. % 702-463-2481. % 702-945-2727.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. 785 E Street. 501 I Street. has a great $7. % 702-945-3320. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. 1291 5th Street. Maggies. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. fill the menu. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. also have family-style restaurants. 540 F Street. % 702482-9777. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. Yerington Casino West. % 702-553-2368. Traditional American and Continental fare. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. 100 North Main Street. and Burro Inn. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. % 702-945-1700. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. including excellent seafood. try Happy Buddha. 570 E Street. 11 North Main Street. % 702-4823885. % 702-945-5253. The . where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. % 800508-9493. 348 North Main Street. % 702-945-3321. also has a 24-hour café. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. open until 9 PM. % 702-9452994.
Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. To reach the campground from Tonopah. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. % 702-4623300. % 800-346-7721. The Virgin River Hotel. Two blocks up. There’s even an indoor workout facility. serves breakfast. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. The Mason Valley Country Club. % 702-7263194. has a 24-hour coffee shop. lunch and dinner.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. % 702-463-2054. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. % 800-896-4567. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. % 702463-2868. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. along with the usual buffet. satisfying and never-ending. The Casa Blanca. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . % 702-727-2314. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. 11 North ALT 95. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. Carl’s Burgers. 702-726-3138. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. which serves breakfast. % 702-4633707. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. 2281 West Scales Way. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. 111 Highway 208. is like a blast from the 50s. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. Dini’s Luck Club. 45 North Main Street. Peavine Campground is set at 6. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. % 800-621-0187.
A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. above. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7.100foot level. There are 11 sites set at 6. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. providing access to fishing and hiking. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8.800 feet in the Monitor Range. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. contact the BLM. % 702-945-3373. offers sites for $11 per night. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. the unpaved road goes south briefly.700 feet. see On Foot. . For information. To reach the campground from Tonopah. For directions. From here. through Belmont. The campground is another three miles away. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. There is no running water and no fee. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. % 702-4826286. To reach the campground from Tonopah. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. From Tonopah. % 702-687-6100. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary.
Henry Holt and Company. published by the State of Nevada. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. David Communications. They are listed in alphabetical order. Suggested Reading . 1993. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. 1995. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. Noonday Press. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. American Automobile Association. 1997. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. Falcon Press Publishing.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. 1994. DeLorme. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. 1990. 1993. Moon Publishing. Basin and Range by John McPhee. 1998. 1997. 1996. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. Falcon Press Publishing. 1995. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Frank Amato Publications. American Automobile Association. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs.
1993. 1995. White. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. Jr. 1993. Wilderness Press. Falcon Press Publishing. Maturi.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. . Stolley. 1992. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. The Globe Pequot Press. La Siesta Press. Legend and Description by David J. 1969.. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Clark. 1997. Falcon Press Publishing. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. 1997. American & Geographic World Publishing. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Gem Guides Book Company. Bischoff. Mojave Books. 1997.
special events. 117-118. 3135. restaurants. see transportation air tours. 168-169. festivals. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 123.183. 181-182. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 193. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 174 canoeing. wild. 75-76. 135. camping.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. hiking. 144. 104-107. 129-130 bungee jumping. 27 books. 117-119. 152. 137 Candelaria. 67-70. see also camping. Leonard Rock Shelter. 92-96. 91 Barley Creek. 185. 164. biking. transportation. 126. 36. 194. 118. 26-27 buses. 124 auto racing. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 193 Aurora. 200 Basque people. 132. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. Reno-Tahoe area. 200 altitude sickness. 10-12. Pony Express territory. 198. 49. Ichthyosaur State Park. 187-188 biking. 103. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 78. 144 backpacking. touring. specific towns airlines. 32. price scale. 54-55. 193-197. fishing. 94-95. 15-16. 50-52. 174-175 Austin. 187-190. 194. 77. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 46. Pioneer territory. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. Pony Express territory. 179. restaurants. camping. 182-183. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 48-49. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. 29. camping. 27. 102. Pioneer territory. 199. 43-44. biking. events. 198. 163-164. 125-128. 35. pictographs art galleries. 15-16. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 120-123. 15-16 bird watching. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 131. restaurants. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 182. horseback riding. 76. hiking. Las Vegas area. 197. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. 28. see water sports car rental. 41-43. Pony Express territory. 8386. Las Vegas territory. 117. 144. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). touring. Reno-Tahoe area. restaurants. 186 Belmont. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 104. 2. accommodations. Elko. safety rules. 179. biking. safety rules. 13-15. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 183-184. 78 BLM. 115-116 ballooning. wagon trips. 146. 154 animal life. outfitters. 10. camping. Cottonwood Valley. 119-120. camping. accommodations. 169. see also petroglyphs. 142. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 38. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 199-201. 169-170 Anasazi people. touring. fishing. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 132-133. Bonneville Salt Flats. see also zoos. Reno-Tahoe area. 155 boating. 67 bowling. 13. touring. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. hiking outfit- Index . 156160. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 17. 115. 89. Pioneer territory. 184. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. Lovelock Indian Cave. 42 burros. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 177 Angel Lake: camping. skydiving. 142. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 121. Mount Jefferson. 86. 118. 17. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. events. Las Vegas. 85. 152. 113. 187-190. wildlife and bird watching antelope. see transportation Carson City.
camping. 17. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 142. 127. 40. touring. 118. 97. 137. hiking. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 122-123. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 109. Jungo. 89. 126-127. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 137. Gold Center. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 155-156. fishing. 108 events: Cowboy country. 117. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 171-172 Gold Point. 144. 106 diving. 120-121. 86. Pioneer territory. 125. camping. 180 Earth Connections. 155. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. special events. camping. Cowboy country. 43-44. 109 Glacier Trail. 176. 171. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 74 Death Valley National Park. Reno-Tahoe area. 12. restaurants. springfish. 137. accommodations. 152. 77. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. Rochester Mining District.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 102-104. 15-16. 106. 142 Great Basin. 112. 138-139. 15-16 Fremont. 73. touring. 139 cruises. 116-117. touring. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 192. fishing. 170. 161-162. hiking. 157-158. 115 Gold Center. 13-15. restaurants. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 182. 74. 190-193. 79. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 109. 80. 22. camping. 137. Treasure City. 119. 37-41. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. pupfish. see events fish. 119-120. 4. 14 Colorado River. 168. Midas. 46 Comstock Lode. mercury warnings. 6-7 ters. 179. hiking outfitters. 125. accommodations. Camp Winfield Scott. 87 Dayton. 29. 121-122. 98. restaurants. 188-189 Clemens. 185. Hamilton. 70. 132-133. transportation. 170-171 Denio Junction. 78 casinos. John C. 109. 187-190. outfitters. 12. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 174-175. 110. see water sports dog-sledding trips. Las Vegas area. 75. Toquima Cave. 186 Cave Lake State Park. Las Vegas territory. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals.5 Cathedral Gorge. 200 Cowboy Country. 150-151. outfitters. 184. 100. auto racing. outfitters. 143-144. 153 Chimney Springs. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 112. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 170. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 125. Lake Tahoe area. 116. 119. 131. 3. restaurants. 124. Shermantown. 139140 Ely. 179. 172 golf. safety rules. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. Las Vegas area. 82. 174. 121. 177. 169. 65 gambling. 44-48. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 83. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 147-148 Eberhardt. camping. touring. Rhyolite. 186 elk. outfitters. 112 Genoa. 93 Davis Creek County Park. Northumberland Cave. 194-195. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 175 climate. sport-climbing ratings. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. Dunn Hatchery. 67. 188-189 fishing. 176. 152-155. touring. restaurants. 143. 35-36. camping. 120. skiing. 177. Eberhardt. 4-5 Gardnerville. 126. 149-150. 70-71. Candelaria. hiking. 163-164. Metropolis. camping. 179. 111. 88. 71 Cottonwood Creek. Reno-Tahoe territory. events. horseback riding. Pioneer territory. Lehman Caves. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. accommodations. 139. 179. 185. 134-135. 167. 190 . 98 fossils. Samuel. 18-19 climbing. biking. fishing. camping. Pony Express territory. fishing. Lovelock Indian Cave. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 178. 75. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 160 Goshute Mountains..
1. 63-66. 177 mercury warnings. hiking. 110-112. 79. touring. 91 information sources. transportation. 21-22. 145-150. touring. 130. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. horseback riding. 57. 41. camping. 186-187. 88. 46. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 91-92. 32-33. 198. 164. outfitters. air tours. touring. 149. 162. 117 hotels. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. touring. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 32-33 Lake Mohave. snow sports outfitters. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 93. 75. 32 horseback riding. 39. 160. 38. 165-167. 116-117. water sports. 141-142. see air tours Hemenway Park. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 43. fishing. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 159. 64. transportation. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. hiking outfitters. Nevada. 40. Midas Hot Spring. 120 Incline Village. biking. 52-53. 82. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 193.Index Great Basin National Park. 31-35. 98. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. hiking. restaurants. touring. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. 156. 176. 99-100. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 41-43. 151. 34-35 Lehman Caves. outfitters. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. restaurants. 36. touring. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 54. touring and transportation. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. camping. 125. Kyle Hot Spring. 106. 103 Hamilton. 83-84. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. restaurants. 13-15. restaurants. 77. watersports. 166. camping. camping. 48-49. 148-149 Humboldt River. 62. 28. Las Vegas area. 163. 150. 66. 181-187. 83. 188-189. Pioneer territory. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. events. touring. 47. 132 Lexington Arch. 162. 44 Las Vegas territory. Pony Express territory. 149-150. 57-58. Las Vegas. 29-31. 45. 195-196. 119 Index . 153. 146. 200-201. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. state. RenoTahoe territory. 112-117. 101. 102. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. Pony Express territory. restaurants. 111. 192. 86. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 49-50. restaurants. 46. 46. 129-131. Reno. 83. 187 Manhattan. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. skiing. 47 lakes. hiking. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. Las Vegas territory. 152. map. 40-41. Las Vegas territory. Pony Express territory. 78-79 Jungo. Pioneer territory. 37-41. camping. hiking. boating outfitters. Pioneer territory. 53-54. 20. 4WD trail. camping. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. balloning and soaring. 179 Kingston. 127. 82. Cowboy country. 118 Lone Mountain. 60. outfitters. 55. 64. events. camping. accommodations. 78. 3536. 23-29. skiing. Reno-Tahoe territory. biking. hiking outfitters. Reno-Tahoe territory. 150. 65. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. Walley’s Hot Springs. 39 history: Cowboy country. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 37-40. 140-141 land. fishing. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 107. special events. 118. 48. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. camping. 158. 148-149 jeep tours. transportation. 90. 137 kayaking. 80-81 hiking. 24. description of. 50-52. 90 helicopter tours.
26. hiking. 77. The Castle. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 61. 75. 200. 34. 73. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 68. 4. 153. 171. 183. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. Nevada State Library & Archives. 180 Minden: events. 25. Lyon County Muserum. 26. Keck Minerals Museum. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. The Way It Was Museum. camping. 98. restaurants. Guinness World of Records Museum. 199. 2. 2. 127 pictographs. camping. 8182 Mesquite. 69. 4. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 165. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 80-81 Native American festivals. fishing. horseback riding. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail.206 n Index seum. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. Wilbur D. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 79. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 23 Overton: touring. 67. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 33. fishing. 70-71 mines and mining. 35. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 135. 69. 61 music and theater. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 142 Midas. 86. 197-198. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 32. 175. Stewart Indian Museum. 139. 174. 177. 73. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 170. 126. Mark Twain Museum. 43. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. Clark County Heritage Museum. 70. Desert Valley Museum. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 3-4. Nevada Historical Society. fishing. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 25-26. Colorado River Museum. 174. 163. 69. 68. 31. hiking outfitters. 102. 171. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 69. see biking Mount Charleston. 193-194. 72. Western Folklife Center. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. Piper’s Opera House. 26. 71. 11 Mosquito Creek. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 199 Metropolis. 69. Genoa Courthouse Museum. White Pine Public Museum. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 200 motels. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. May Museum and Arboretum. 173. 189-190 Muir. 181 Moapa. Marzen House Museum. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 196197. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. John. 108. 26. 83. 165 nuclear waste. 25. 25. 133. 109. 23. accommodations. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 10. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. see biking mountain biking. 139. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 25. 106 nuclear testing. 29. 43. Marshall Mint Museum. 135136. 8. Churchill County Museum & Archives. Capitol Building and Museum. 134 petroglyphs. see accommodations motorcycles. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 61. 107. 61. 73. 177. Brewery Arts Center. 199-200. 178. Lost City Museum. Humbolt Museum. 153 Northumberland Cave. Roberts House Museum. Central Nevada Museum. 72-73. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 107. 174. 61. 73. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 142. 158. 187 Mojave Desert. touring. skiing and snowboarding. Las Vegas Art Museum. Nevada State Mu- . Virginia & Truckee Depot. touring. 91. 71. 68. 73. Mineral County Museum. 78. 2. touring. 34. Fleischmann Planetarium. 109-110. Liberace Museum. 175. 34. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. National Automobile Museum. 167-168 Paiutes. restaurants. 173. 173. outfitters. 188. hiking. 103. 25. 29 Mount Jefferson. 34. 177. 71.
163. climbing and hiking. 17. 138 rock climbing. 195. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 92-93. 163. 176 rodeos. 52 pupfish. 84. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 98. 76. biking. fishing. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 9-10. 173 Index . 89. 113. touring. Reno-Tahoe area. hiking. 83-84. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 66. special events. 180. see mines and mining skiing. 115. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. horse. see climbing springfish. 87. Benjamin “Bugsy. 90 soaring. 93-94. fishing. accommodations. water sports. hiking. 12. 146. snow sports outfitters. hiking and climbing. 17. 90 sport climbing. 165-201 plant life. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 80 pronghorn antelope. Pony Express territory. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 98. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 36. 77. 77-78. 13 Price Lakes. 146-147. motorcycle. Las Vegas area. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. see climbing rock hunting. 79. 185-186. 190. camping. 163-164. 109 Shoshone people. 143 Rachel. 85. 193. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). touring. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. restaurants. 48-49 snowboarding. 197 rafting. RenoTahoe area. hiking. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 17. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 153 Sparks. 144. 167. 144. biking. 197. 160-163. Las Vegas territory. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. camping. touring. 76. 179 Searchlight. 145-146 prostitution. 91. 106 Siegel. 150-151.” 4 silver. 49-50. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 200 temperature chart. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. skiing. restaurants. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 193. 117. see skiing snowmobiling. hiking. 82. 134. camping. 144. 74 races. 26-27. 114-115 theater. accommodations. restaurants. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 180 Pioneer territory. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 9 Sand Mountain. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 79-80. see events price codes. 89-91 skydiving. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 84-85 swimming. 129-130. 187.Index Pioche: accommodations. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 17. 59-61. transportation. 186-187. 78. see events Round House Art Gallery. 65 Pony Express territory. 156. fishing. 143. 154. 96-97. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 76. fishing. 54. 170 rivers. 88. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 142. 112. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 181. 179. 9697. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 88 Star Peak: hiking. fishing. outfitters. 54. auto. Pioneer territory. touring. 78. 94 special events. camping. skiing. 88 Shermantown. 197-199. 53-54. 106 Spooner Lake. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. camping. 169 Pyramid Lake. biking. 198. 104. bike. 123-125. 42.
89. 150. 147-148. 106 trains. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. buses. outfitters. 155 . 139-140 Treasure City. Hemenway Park. 134 Twain. 102. restaurants. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. restaurants. 177. 185. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 97. 164. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 32. 155. 144. Amtrak. outfitters. 159-160. 66. 200-201. 76. fishing. 163. Oxbow Nature Study Area. Walker Lake. camping. 155. 75. 160-161. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 95. Reno-Tahoe territory. hiking. 45. camping. Goshute Mountains. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. 187. 71-74 Virgin River. outfitters. rental cars. 20. 73. 62. 127. 110. Ruby Marsh. 31. 191 UFOs. 30-31. camping. hiking outfitters. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. events. touring. 98. restaurants. 176 wineries. touring. 79-80. touring. Jack’s Valley Road. 190-193. hiking. 139. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. Wilson Canyon. 145-146. Cleve Creek Campground. 109 trees. camping. water sports. 85. 33. Winnemucca. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Arc Dome Wilderness. 174 walking. 35. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. 55. 117. 153-154. 61. 67. restaurants. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. climbing and hiking. Las Vegas territory. 143. 119-120. 152-155. horseback riding. 151 Wilson Canyon. 149. 151 Wovoka. 146. 182-183. 174. 117 Toquima Cave. 29.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 188-189. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 172. 39 vineyards. 156-157. wildlife and bird watching. 168-169. 86 Wells: accommodations. 159. 80-81. 112. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. camping. Table Mountain Wilderness. 71. hiking. 62. 157. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. Pioneer territory. Ruby Mountains. Lake Mead. 176. 41. touring. hiking outfitters. 25 Topaz Lake. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 83. Pioneer territory. 38. 192. touring. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 178. 179. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 183-184. see plant life tufas. Pony Express territory. 29-30. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 162. 26-27. 163-164. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 191-192. 144. Santa Rosa Mountains. 80. 34-35. 193 Walker Lake. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 135-137. 68. 142 Wendover: accommodations. events. see transportation transportation: airports. High Rock Canyon. fishing. 167. Mark. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. camping. 104. special events. Echo Canyon State Park. 44-48. 199. 77-78. 176 Yerington: accommodations. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 193. 143. events. 62. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. 31. restaurants. touring. Earth Connections. 111. 127. 168 zoos. 150. 196.
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