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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
500 and 10. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. giant sloths. which covers most of Nevada. you can have the whole wild. In fact. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. as the top tourism destination in the US. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. Florida. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. bison. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. Among the 50 states. you’ll know better. however. These mammoths. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. About 27 million of them. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. horses. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. pausing on .000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. half-pound hot dogs. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. For anyone who loves the outdoors. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. According to author John Hart. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself.” and for good reason. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. In fact. that’s good news.
working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. shells. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. however. established trade routes. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. By about 500 AD. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. The Northern Paiutes. . hand tools. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. His party wintered in California.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. In the south. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. the first European entered Nevada. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. Exactly 50 years later. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. points. In 1776. followed in Garces’ footsteps. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. Jedediah Smith. fish hooks. including southern Nevada. Many prime archeological sites. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. wetlands and springs. In the 12th century. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton.
was dispatched to map the area. In 1830. with Brigham Young as governor. In 1849. covering most of Utah and Nevada. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. the Mormons were the first white residents. In 1843 and ’44. dominated by the church. Introduction . but the Utah Territory government. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. Nevada became a state on Halloween. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. continued to oversee Nevada. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. camping at Las Vegas. DC. and. swelling the population well into five figures. the church established the State of Deseret. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. Eight years later the first wagon train. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. and headed over the Sierras. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. then returned east along the route the next year. In 1833. 1864. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. as it came to be called. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. In 1859. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. but abandoned it two years later. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map.History n 3 In the north. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. encountering Pyramid Lake. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. In 1845. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. which helped open the gateway to the West. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. John C. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. who would later become a war hero. The Comstock Lode. By 1857. Fremont.
But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. son of Winnemucca. was struck in Virginia City. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. In 1855. Howard Hughes sud- . killed two-thirds of them. Siegel’s vision. chief of the Northern Paiutes. bringing town sites. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. the mother of all lodes. then underground tests for 30 more. Carson City. signed a treaty with the federal government. commerce and industry. violence escalated. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. particularly in southern Nevada. Streets were laid out. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. In the teens and ’20s. Ironically. upscale Vegas. the Flamingo soon reopened. began making money and the boom was on. the Big Bonanza. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. was of a classy. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. In 1860. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. however. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. Meanwhile. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War.000 people in 1960. Then in 1966. Warriors under Numaga. the first true hotel-casino. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. Winnemucca. In 1874. opened in 1950. then picked up again in the early 1900s. Reno and the surrounding areas. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. later known as the Nevada Test Site. but was ambushed. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. In 1873. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes.
are reaping the windfall. places like Elko. however. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. Winnemucca. Fallon and Mesquite. and Americans have become moths to the flame. . a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. The entire West will be watching what transpires. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. But the explosion has not been without fallout. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. trappers. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. find enough water. To many. moving to the region in record numbers. How much is too much. miners. a land dominated by a mobile population. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. This time. By 1970. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. DC. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. Mom and their 2. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. today there are master-planned communities. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West.
and so on.000 feet in the space of a few miles. dry. down a range. Nevada even has its own 10. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California.839foot Matterhorn.000 feet.000 feet to nearly 12. reservoirs and other watery bodies. with nine ranges topping 11. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. Here. the Carson and the Humboldt. across a sagebrush-covered basin. The notion of Nevada as a flat. lakes. Get the idea? After all. down another range. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. The roof of Nevada is 13. On the other side of the state.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. gurgle through the northern part of the state. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. then up another range. hills and uplands.063 feet. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. 13. In the north. towers over Great Basin National Park. Wheeler Peak. The Colorado River . In fact. then disappear into their respective “sinks.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. Near Las Vegas. Fremont in 1844. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. the Spring Mountains soar from 2.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Named by explorer John C. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. Depending on who’s counting. Yes.
000 years ago covered 8. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. it’s an uphill climb all the way. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management.000 acres were set aside in Nevada.500 square miles of western Nevada. the largest alpine lake in North America. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. natural sources of running water. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. are the only reliable. most notably Lake Tahoe. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. For the greens. in the remote north near Jarbidge. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers.000 acres. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. a great inland sea that 50. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty.000-acre Great Basin National Park. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. the southeastern corner of Nevada. Lower and drier. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. only 65. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. In the 1970s. establishing 77. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. In 1989. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction .
Apart from aspens. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. The recommendations have been under review for years. greasewood.000 and 8. Death Valley. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. 14 national recreation areas. such as rabbitbrush. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations.000 feet above sea level. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. with its tiny. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). particularly the Sierra Nevadas. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). horsebrush and shadescale. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. At elevations above 6. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. The squat Utah juniper. the soil supports . The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. is generally found throughout the state between 5. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. Still.000 feet.
Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. up to 5. however. which is actually a type of yucca. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. willow and dogwood. which make up just 1% of the land. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. prickly pear. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. creosote bush has an oily. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. the official state grass. bristlecone pine. or jimson weed. western white pine. Washoe pine. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . In the mountains. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. Above the desert floor. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. At the other extreme. ponderosa pine. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. The Joshua tree. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely.000 feet. along with alder. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. The rare. the mountain lion. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. hallucinogenic sacred datura. lodgepole pine. blooms by night here. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web.000 years. Black bears. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. The king of Great Basin vegetation. hedgehog and barrel. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora.
The desert bighorn sheep. burrowing owl and canyon wren. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. coyote. beaver. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. also live in the Mojave. Ironically. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. Snakes include several types of rattlers. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. Blacktail jackrabbits. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. Meanwhile. weasel. rainbow. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. pika. brown. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. help comes from hunters. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. America’s two poisonous spiders. redtailed hawk. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. with Lahontan cutthroat. badger. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. fox. brook. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. kangaroo rats. Trout are the favorite of anglers. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. prairie falcon. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. Gambel’s quail. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. the black widow and brown recluse. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. while mule deer are abundant. skunk. In the air over the desert. golden and Dolly Varden . horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. seen on Nevada’s license plates.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. greater roadrunner. chuckwalla.
Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. Reno-Tahoe Territory. A section on Touring follows. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. such as visitors bureaus. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. like almost every other Nevada visitor. covering its history. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. on land. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. broken down by specific locales. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. on snow and in the air. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. on water. Along with detailed information on where to go. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. culture and most attractive features. Cowboy Country.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . This section also includes sources for expert information.
. Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . . . . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. Finally. . . . . $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions.12 n Introduction ing chart. it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . Trails may be gone. . . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. Hiking. flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . . . Backpacking. . . . . . . . . . . . . . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . . . $50 to $100 $$$ . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . . . . Up to $50 per day $$ . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . forethought and patience. .
known as the Yosemite Decimal System.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .Adventures n 13 Finally. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.14 (and sometimes beyond). the most popular among serious rock climbers. the lower numbers (. Class 2 . For Class 5 routes. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America.0 to .0 to . using the hands. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be. As this guide goes to press. . Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. ranging from .Easy hiking.Climbing.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. so help is usually a long way away.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . occasionally using hands Class 4 . Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.Boulder hopping. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 .
Assistance can take hours or days. n n n n n . clothing. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. If the plan changes. Begin hiking early in the day. In the arid country of Nevada. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. Be aware of conditions. Beyond that. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. not hard-and-fast rules. By their nature. Pack spare everything – food. these ratings are meant only as guidelines.10. Don’t travel alone. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. climbing partners. use common sense before you get into trouble. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. Storms are more common in the afternoon. then amended by subsequent climbers. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. dehydration and lightning. Always take fresh water with you. Give them descriptions of yourself. until all holds disappear at .14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. As with all outdoor activities. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. taking into account personal experience. climbers enter the realm of myth. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. legend.
high-clearance job. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. four-wheel-drive vehicle. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. Not one of those trendy. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. spare belts. water and fluids.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. extra gas. but a powerful. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. tools. . Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. Arizona. jack. preferably one with a large gas tank. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market.
AZ. n If water is in limited supply. drink it as needed. however. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. n If you find a traveled road. For more information on desert survival. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. when you left and where you are headed. left out of popular literature. minimize talking and eating. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. stay put. contact DARES. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. in wilderness areas). Mountain biking in Nevada. . Do not ration water. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. is more popular than ever. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. The rest of Nevada. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. Phoenix. PO Box 39340.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. of course. stay on it. n If you have water. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. leave a note telling searchers who you are. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. 85096. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes.
there are tourists. the gem of the Sierras. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. Meanwhile. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Ballooning. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. there are all types of sky-high adventures. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. and gigantic Lake Mead. Soaring Where there is Vegas. Many streams. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. Skydiving. n In The Air Scenic Flights. lakes and reservoirs. At these higher elevations. Fishing. but take extra care. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. And where there are tourists. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin.
For those who like to watch. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. throwing rain. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. Summer and early fall can be blistering. . lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. but despite the obvious danger. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. get out of lowlying areas. temperatures above 110° are common. Laughlin. on the Colorado River. Flashfloods are the predictable result. If thunderstorms threaten. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. Leave the high altitudes as well. In the Great Basin. These storms are known to appear with little warning. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. although they can occur at any time of year. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada.
Nevada Commission on Tourism. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. see the listings that accompany each chapter.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. Bureau of Land Management. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. Nevada Division of Wildlife. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. Carson City. % 702-687-4219. US Forest Service. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. % 702-688-1500. NV 89703. Ogden. 850 Harvard Way. Reno. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. % 702-687-4384. Capitol Complex.travelnevada.com. % 800-NEVADA-8. Baker. 84401. NV 89520. UT. www. In the mountains. . snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. NV 89710. Great Basin National Park. % 801-625-5182. Intermountain Region. Reno. In the north. 1263 South Stewart Street. 324 25th Street. Nevada Department of Transportation. NV 89311. NV 89502. NV 89712. too. For information on specific locales. Carson City. 1100 Valley Road. % 702234-7331. Carson City. basin winters can be chilly. windy. In southern Nevada. % 702-785-6500. 1300 South Curry Street. rainy and occasionally snowy. Nevada Division of State Parks.
the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. cheap food.000-year-old petroglyphs. try hiking to an 11. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. in plain view of the casinos. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. lounge shows – and recently.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. Inside the city limits. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. . and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. closer.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada.000-foot peak. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. both prehistoric and otherwise. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. but no less extravagant. 9 AM to 9 PM.50 for seniors. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. features work by students. Ham Concert Hall. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of .26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. call % 702-895-3801. Just off the glittering Strip. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. faculty and invited artists. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. % 702-363-1921. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. Dedicated to Mr. % 702-895-3381. 10 AM to 5 PM. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. is the Liberace Museum. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. 1 PM to 5 PM. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. $3. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. % 702-895-3011. actual cosmopolitan. Southeast of the Strip. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). % 702-798-5595.95 for adults.95 for adults. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Sunday. giant. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. $4. Seasonal streams. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Showmanship. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. Yes. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. Admission is $4. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. 8 AM to 5 PM. The tax-deductible admission is $6. % 702-895-3893. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas.95 for seniors and students.
petting zoo. The restaurant and bar are open daily. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. trail rides and a “real” Western town. saloon. % 702-875-4191. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. 8 AM to sunset. wife of a German munitions tycoon.) The best time to take the 13-mile. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . With structures dating back to 1864. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 7 AM to dusk. The park is open daily. 5 PM in the winter. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. Back on US 95. % 702-486-5413. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. Admission is $4. The park is open daily. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). the road to Mt. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. one-way loop drive is early morning. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. later during summer months. 8 AM to 11 PM. (See below. The admission is $5 per vehicle. % 702-875-4141. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. 8 AM to 5 PM. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. Charleston. Today there is a restaurant. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. have been unearthed here. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. The park is open daily. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. under Adventures on Foot. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157.
completing the Mt. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. Charleston Lodge. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. under On Foot. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. (See below. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. (See below. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. the Mt.) Pitch a tent. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort.000 vertical feet of runs. under Adventures and Camping. At the northern edge of the reservation. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. desolate valley. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. and its 1.) .) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. % 702385-2SKI. elevation 11. under Camping. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. Charleston Loop. (See below. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. Nevada’s state animal. % 702-872-5500. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. The 1.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. under On Wheels. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area.918 feet. see below under On Snow. % 702-646-3401. Charleston Hotel. Bighorn sheep.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. In the winter. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. % 702-872-7098. 17-mile. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. % 702-872-5408. (See below.) After the hike.
% 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. Airlines Air 21. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines.
% 800-GO-VALUE . AA Auto Rentals. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car.
% 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. . 444 Hotel Plaza. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. 3150 Paradise Road. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. Gray Line Tours. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. % 800-332-5333. 711 East Desert Inn Road. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. stopping downtown. The museum is open daily. Admission is $1. % 702-294-1888. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. Call % 800USA-RAIL.50 for adults. % 702-735-1616. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. % 702-455-7955. Did it work? Judge for yourself. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. NV 89109. On the north side of Boulder City. 1830 South Boulder Highway. NV 89109.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. $1 for seniors and children under 16.
The cost is $5 for adults. 660 thick at the base. head back toward Boulder City. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. Hoover also created Lake Mead. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. 89105. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. fishing. (See On Water below. for information on camping. % 702-293-2034. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. % 702-293-8907. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. boating and diving. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. Children under 10 are free. $2. % 702-565-8591. 500 South Boulder Highway.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. Hoover Dam took 5. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. Phoenix and Los Angeles. All of 726 feet high. 89005. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. and 45 feet thick at the top. 100 Nevada Highway. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. Las Vegans. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away.) Be sure to heed the . Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. swimming.
but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. % 702-397-2088. % 702-293-6180. Beyond here. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). explain the geology and forces of erosion. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. The displays in the visitor center. a public swimming and boating area. nearly five miles off the highway. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. From the visitor center. which rests on the Virgin River. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. thank you. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. Back on Nevada 167. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. Just beyond the bay. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. Go straight to reach Henderson. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. . then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina.
Arizona. South of here is camping. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. 9 AM to 5 PM. in Bullhead City. % 800-46-4584 . 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. % 520-754-3628.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. under Adventures. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. campground and fishing and swimming spots. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. East of Searchlight 14 miles. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. % 702-297-1464. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. 125°.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. % 520-754-3399. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. a campground and marina. % 520-754-4606. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. Admission is a $1 donation. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon.000 visitors a month.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. Nevada’s record-high temperature. Saturday. constructed his Riverside Casino. The museum is open Monday through Friday. with motel. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. bar and bait shop. (For details on all three. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. relives those days. the town was a gold.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. see below. 355 Highway 95. Named for a brand of matches. on Lake Mojave. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. 9 AM to 1 PM. % 702-297-1682. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. % 520-754-3272.
and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. May is the busiest month. as many as 6.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. Special Events February In February. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 702-876-3380. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 800-331-1212 Budget. In Laughlin.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. % 800-227-5245. % 800-736-6247 United Express. % 702-798-6405. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. % 310-448-1822. % 800-227-5254. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. 1555 South Casino Drive. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. host- . Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise.
36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. blows in. and the National Finals Rodeo. a three-day balloon rally. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. % 702434-0848. floats into Laughlin. the Parade of Lights. % 702-293-1611. % 702-457-2797. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. % 800-637-1006. % 702-386-3926. Navaho and Mojave peoples. . along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. to the waters of Lake Mead. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. % 702-631-7000. a confluence of Southern Paiute. August In August. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. % 702-8953900. % 702687-5777. % 702-293-4857. the International Black Heritage Festival. to the campus of UNLV. Later in the month. takes place in Vegas. Another balloon festival. % 702-4541212. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. % 702-898-6565. % 702-457-5775. % 702-2939256. October Art in the Park. % 702-870-1221. to downtown. take place in Boulder City. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. % 702-452-8066. to town. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. % 702-293-2034. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. % 800-227-5245. also takes place in October. the Las Vegas Classic.
Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. At nearby Willow Springs. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. Utah. To the west. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. Red Rock attracts free climbers. Sheep Trail (5. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing.11b).200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.12a). so take extra precautions when adventuring here. At the end of a 90-minute approach. Crimson Chrysalis (5.11). The Choad Warrior (5. Stratocaster (5. so chalk often stays put for months. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5.8). Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab.11). TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer.11). A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. Graveyard Waltz (5. in fact. is to mountain bikers. Other routes in- . Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. especially in winter months. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. Chicken Eruptus (5.11+). is only 35 minutes from the Strip. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5.9) has 1.9). the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area.11d) offers more advanced routes.
. The 3. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. About seven miles from the visitor center.10 or 5.8) and Eagle Dance (5. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine.000 feet in four miles. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. gaining 3. The trail switchbacks time and again. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. published by the American Alpine Club. page 41. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. consult the Bible of local climbers.918 feet. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. elevation 11. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. ending at a small dam and the spring. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. Following the fork. & For more information. 17 miles round-trip. At the aforementioned fork. Chockstone Press.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. See Outfitters. an easy six-mile round-trip. to savor the 300-mile views. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. Volume 1 by John Harlin III.6). toward a ridge at 11. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste.000 feet.12). Rainbow Buttress (5. The South Loop Trail.000 feet.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5.
000 feet into the northeastern sky. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. For trail information and weather and safety updates. At lower elevations. contact the US Forest Service. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip.000 feet to a saddle. gaining 1. . Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. covering two miles and gaining 1. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. thunderstorms and snow. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. the trail climbs 1. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center.000 feet above the desert. To the northwest. Mountain T Ranch. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. Beginning on a dirt road.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak.4 miles. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. Never take these altitudes lightly. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle.
89124. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. . % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. % 702-254-5604. Just south of this outcrop.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. then go northwest to another plateau. % 702-223-2176. PO Box 80875. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. Sports & Adventure Tours. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. which is marked by a post. Falcon Press Publishing. % 702-596-2953. Las Vegas 89117. PO Box 371324. % 888-86ROCKY. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Rocky Trails. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. 89180. and park at the end of the road.2 miles. Las Vegas. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. outlines the easiest route. Climb northward up the slope. % 702-364-8687. climb a gully to reach a ridge. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. heading for the northernmost outcropping. % 702-434-3388. Suite 4. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. turn right. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. 89137. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. HCR 33.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. go 6. Bruce Grubbs. PO Box 1. Stay below the northern peaks. Las Vegas. ascending northwest.
Wagons West. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. Armed . 4065 East Patrick Lane. % 702-254-1143. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. % 702-252-7114. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. 89132.6 mile to a dirt road. 617 Hoover Avenue. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. % 702-875-1978. Las Vegas. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. % 702-798-6565. % 702-458-8870. At mile post 17. % 702387-2457. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. Hahn’s World of Surplus. Peak Sports. % 702-649-6819. Desert Outfitting. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702362-7177. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. however. PO Box 19210. Desert Rock Sports.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702-383-0838. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. Cowboy Trail Rides. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. can arrange a covered wagon trip. Silver State Old West Tours. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . % 702-2567433.
turn right. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. At the road. Las Vegas. heading uphill. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. make a quick right and head downhill. before heading out. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. NV 89126. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. . turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. and pump uphill.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. PO Box 26589. Take this until you reach a double track. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. % 702-647-5000. For a more challenging excursion. a six-mile loop. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. For a tamer road trip. turn left to another intersection and turn right. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. contact the Bureau of Land Management. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. 4765 Vegas Drive. flying downhill and then up to another road. Go left here. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. Turn right. go to the next intersection. Head downhill. scanning for a cairn on the left. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. After beginning another climb. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. zoom downhill to the fork. A double track soon appears on the right. Turn right. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left.
be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. % 702-8978287. Downhill Bicycle Tours. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. % 702-642-2453. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. % 702-596-2953. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. % 702-451-9586. % 702-876-8687. 16 Cottonwood Drive. % 702-646-3401. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. Turn left to return to US 15. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. R&R Cycling. Ski Chalet. At about the 10-mile mark. . 7934 Cadenza Lane. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. the byway forks. Escape the City Streets. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. Las Vegas Bikes USA. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-252-8077. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally.
Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. Old West Territory Tours. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. of all places. % 702-646-8800. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. crystal-clear hotel pool. Las Vegas. % 702-796-9355. 4765 West Vegas Drive. % 702-454-5555. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. an avid angler for more than 50 years. 3700 Flamingo Road. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. % 702-380-6969. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. is on the premises. . 89101. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. 713 East Ogden Street. 8 AM to 11 AM. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. Suite B. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. maps and more information on backcountry byways. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. It begins. Rebel Adventure Tours. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. % 888-REELRIO. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. For details. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. 2810 South Highland Drive.
with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2.500-acre ranch in Utah. about three miles across at its widest point. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. water skiing. largemouth bass and trout. rents houseboats. Forever Resorts. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard.) Swimming. Boulder Beach. % 800-34-SCUBA. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. Thomas. For details. . (See below. % 800-2555561. jet skiing. instruction and gear. Off Nevada 167. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. under Boating Outfitters. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. and two. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. The expert staff is available seven days a week. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). flows into Lake Mead. offering professional advice. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. powerboats and cruisers. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds).Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. meals and overnight lodging for $449. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road).to three-days notice is required.
Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. % 702-293-6180. Near Laughlin. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. Las Vegas. 89006. is the local fishing and boating hub. % 800-696-RAFT. Return transportation is provided by bus. 89102. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. 322 Lake Shore Road. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. % 702-252-7114. Lake Mojave Farther south. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. PO Box 62465. PO Box 100. 89006. offers trips from January through November. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. particularly near cliffs. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. Las Vegas. 89124. % 702-2931190. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. The cost is about $65 per person. HCR 30.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. % 702-754-3245. . 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. Lake Mead Cruises. % 702-565-8958. Calville Bay Resort. PO Box 61235. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave.
5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702-388-1022. Sunset Bait & Tackle. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. Overton Beach Marina. Laughlin. % 702565-0696. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. PO Box 29279. Bullhead City. Clearwater Flyfishing. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. Fiesta Queen Cruises. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. AZ. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. . 89040. % 800-228-9825. 4290 Boulder Highway.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. Overton. % 702-433-3263. % 702297-1464. % 702-3944000. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. % 702-5659111. % 702-564-5660. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. Overton. % 702-459-2080. 89028. Tom’s Water Skiing. Laughlin River Tours. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. PO Box 29279. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. % 702-452-8299. 89040. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. 1450 Newberry Drive. 89029. 520-758-6242. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. % 702-437-9283.
1500 Palomino Drive.J. The company claims more than 500. % 702-871-1399. citing growing noise problems. % 702-434-0848. 810 Circus Circus Drive. With commercial balloon tours. 3800. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. % 702-385-4321. % 702-564-1558. % 702-5657583. however. Arizona and Zion. Even more memorable. . Henderson Bill Spellman. Hackett Bungy. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. complete with guided ground tours and meals. 161 East Rancho Drive. HB Fishing Guide Service. ext. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. 68 Mallory Road.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. noon to 9 PM. Karen Jones. % 702-565-8396. % 702-451-4004.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. Jim Goff. Utah. Saturday until midnight. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. A jump is $59.
the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Heli USA. 89109. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . Jean. Boulder City. 2705 Airport Drive. % 800-535-4448.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. % 800-216-8330. % 702-385-2SKI. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. Las Vegas. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. NV 89117. % 800-634-6377. % 800-359-8727. % 702-877-1010. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. Set at a base elevation of 8. Web site www.com. % 702-293-1860. Skydive Las Vegas. 806 Buchanan Street.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. #115-200. Eagle Canyon Airlines. 3275 Rosanna Street. PO Box 19629.ultimateballoonadven. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. % 702-221-9199. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. % 800-255-7474. NV 89019. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. % 702-736-0013. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Las Vegas. 241 East Reno Avenue. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Jean Airport. Las Vegas Airlines. 89005. % 800-634-6851. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. 200 Convention Center Drive. D&R Balloons. Air Vegas Airlines. % 800-446-4584. 806 Buchanan Street. Scenic Airlines. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. Sundance Helicopters. King Airelines.
even behemoths like the 5. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. 2395 North Rancho Road. % 800-272-7426. are booked solid on weekends. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. HO TE L Many hotels. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. 18 East Fremont Street. if possible. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well.000 visitors. it seems. For more serious snow. But somehow. $-$$. % 702-385-1664. $-$$$.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world.000-room MGM Grand. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. 600 East Fremont Street. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. over 100.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. % 702-646-0008. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. % 702-385-5200. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. The place was once part-owned by in- . be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. luring 200. All they do is take up space. Above all. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. After all.000 techies to Sin City. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s.
featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. Caesars Palace. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 1 Main Street. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. The faux volcano. Even by Vegas standards. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. $-$$. $-$$. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. Next door is the Island’s big sister. The Four Queens. % 702-740-NYNY. $$-$$$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. $$-$$$$. South of here. way out there. $$$-$$$$. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. If staring at wealth is your thing. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-791-7171. The movie Rainman was shot here. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . 128 East Fremont Street. % 702-3821600. $$$$$. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. Down the street. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3000 Paradise Road. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. % 702-740-NYNY. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. % 702-386-2110. Across the street is the green giant.037 rooms. New York. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. and New York. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. % 702-731-7110. the young upstarts. New York is out there. New York. who built the first casino resort. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. % 702-385-4011. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. the MGM Grand. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. the Flamingo. The Mirage. % 702-732-5111. $$-$$$$. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. 202 East Fremont Street. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-385-7111. Monte Carlo. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. across from the Fashion Show Mall. The Golden Nugget. % 702-894-7111. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. is a crowd-pleaser. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. $$-$$$. 129 East Fremont Street. however. $$-$$$$. has 1. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. dominate the Strip.
Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. % 702-735-1616. Bonnie Springs Motel.000.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. % 702-872-5408. TIP Laughlin For the most part. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. Charleston Hotel. On the outskirts of Vegas. $$-$$$$. Charleston Resort.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. three Motel 6s. % 702-875-4400.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. too. contrary to popular belief. .000 visitors a month and climbing. set at 7. % 800-634-3988. but don’t count on that for long.500 rooms. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. % 702-872-5500. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. the Mt. while Bellagio will boast 3. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. % 702-262-4555. contact the Chamber of Commerce.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. $$-$$$$. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. which eliminates Reno. At this book goes to press. $-$$. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. positively sedate with its 5. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. has 2. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. In the Spring Mountains. $-$$$. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400.
To really dine UPtown. while the Colorado Belle. After a few meals at most of these troughs. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. % 702-298-4200. $-$$$. 1900 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-4600. % 702735-8686. $-$$. Eurasian mélange. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. however. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. Andiamo. and Gatsby’s. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. 2300 South Casino Drive. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. in the Las Vegas Hilton. The Ramada Express. both at the MGM Grand. $-$$. % 702-298-7111. % 702-298-2214. On the Strip. while the Golden Nugget. % 702-891-7337. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. 1350 East Flamingo Road.500 rooms. Nearby. 202 Fremont Street. contact the Chamber of Commerce. % 702-385-5016. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. % 702-732-5111. $-$$$. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. 2121 South Casino Drive. Café Michelle. Andre’s. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . % 702-3807711. The Edgewater. 401 South 6th Street. An excellent buffet. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$$$. % 702-298-2453. $-$$$. and very expensive. classy Hugo’s Cellar. 3700 West Flamingo Road. Hamada. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. sports a railroad theme. % 702-891-7374. 1650 Casino Drive. Emeril’s. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. % 702-252-7777. and Harrah’s. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. % 702-385-4011. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. Off the main drags. At the Flamingo Hilton.000 rooms. Downtown at the Four Queens. % 702-298-2535. 2000 South Casino Drive. $-$$. 2100 South Casino Drive. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. offers 2. % 702-733-3111. serves upscale Italian fare. % 702-298-5111. % 702-298-4000. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. the Flamingo Hilton. has 1. 2900 South Casino Drive. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. opened in 1990.
308 West Sahara Avenue. . % 702-382-1644.400 feet. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. Phillip’s Supper House. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. Charleston. Near the end of Nevada 157.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. All five campgrounds have piped water. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. while moderately pricey. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. % 702-794-0700. in the shadow of Mt. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. is the most popular Chinese place in town. call % 702-873-8800. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. serves fine steaks and seafood. % 702-693-5000. Fong’s. For satisfying American favorites. 2504 East Fremont. % 702-383-0007. The Green Shack. For a Latin taste. Kyle Canyon. The elevation here ranges between 7. as the name implies. % 702-298-2242. % 702733-8899. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. % 702-363-1921. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. % 702-873-5222. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane.000 and 8. % 702-2984600. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. Suite Z. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. For information. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Chin’s. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. so be prepared for extreme weather. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. having opened in 1932. % 702-384-4470. which. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. 3900 Paradise Road. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. seven days a week. is the oldest restaurant in the city. serves hip. although the Lodge. Chicken is the house specialty. 4455 Paradise Road. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood.
% 520-754-3272. % 520-7544606. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. there’s Boulder Beach. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. To the east of Vegas. % 702-397-2088. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. For information. Calville Bay has 80 sites. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. In Valley of Fire State Park. On the Virgin River to the north. Moving north from Boulder City. For information on all five locations. On the north shore. north of town on Lake Mojave. call % 702-646-3401. Across the river from the Strip. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. Las Vegas Territory . the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites.
which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. the largest alpine lake in North America.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. the city of Reno is the . the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet.” Certainly Lake Tahoe.000 feet. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. just east of the California-Nevada border. Of course.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. Reno. With a surface elevation of more than 7. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. Rose resorts. Heavenly and Mt. At the heart of this region. In the winter. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. Las Vegas. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. The Truckee River. and for good reason. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak.
where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. where everyone expects Ben. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. Just south of Carson City. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. About 30 miles north of Reno. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. on the shores of Washoe Lake. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. 8. The Carson River. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. an ancient. North of Pyramid Lake. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. Farther east of Carson City. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. Washoe Lake State Park. . The place dates back to 1851. Fort Churchill. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. meanwhile. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. Farther south. are walks back in time. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. Today this mirage-come-true. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. which meanders – sometimes wet. Pyramid Lake. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area.
From here. there isn’t a glass pyramid. the city continues to grow rapidly. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. which hosts special events in warmer months. In 1863. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. Like Vegas. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. No.H. From Carson City.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. From Reno. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges.W. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. and in 1859 C. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. In 1852. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. % 800-FOR-RENO. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. North Virginia Street. for a schedule. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. or at least slow. H. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could.
If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. From a historical point of view. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. . this is it. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931.
Fleischmann Planetarium. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. has been at that location since 1946. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. Great Basin Adventure. a nifty historical theme park. On the northern outskirts of the city. % 702-334-2600. 300 North Center Street. When arms get tired. % 702-969-3111. % 702-788-3773. houses a theater and telescope. houses one of the world’s best collections. 1650 North Virginia Street. % 702-688-1190. is also located here. % 702-333-9300. April through October. To get there. The staff welcomes visitors daily. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right.) The Wilbur D. the campus of the University of Nevada. And the Keck Minerals Museum. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. 1265 Deerlodge Road. is a well-known. % 702-7855961. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. turn right. The Nevada Historical Society. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. but call first for hours. including black bears and kit foxes. 1502 North Washington Street.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. About 10 minutes north of the university. 10 South Lake Street. On the north side of the city. (See below under On Foot. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. May Museum and Arboretum. Animal Ark Nature Center. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. On the suburban south side of Reno. boasts three treasures. % 702784-4812. the National Automobile Museum. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. Reno-Tahoe Territory . is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. % 702-784-4528.
Greyhound Lines. National. Airlines Air 21. % 800-231-2222. % 800-800-4000. K-T Services. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. If you don’t have a car. Lloyd’s International. % 800-235-9292. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-426-7000. % 800-654-7037.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-218-8777. % 800-654-3131. % 800-221-2000. % 800-221-1212. % 800-CAR-RENT. Southwest Airlines. % 800-225-2525. Northwest Airlines. No Stress Express. Delta Air Lines. % 800-527-0700. United Airlines. % 702-882-3375. TriStar Airlines. % 800-241-6522. % 702-328-6400. % 800-736-6247. % 800-453-9417. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. % 800-325-8007. Budget. Enterprise. Hertz. % 800-435-9792. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Reno Air. Dollar. Avis. Canadian Airlines. Thrifty. % 800-331-1212. Delta Connection-Sky West. Alaska Airlines. America West Airlines. % 800-359-2472. . TWA. % 800-367-2277.
% 702-686-3030. is a study in contrast.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. 98 Colony Road. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. NV 89505. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. provides an interesting mix of adventures. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. % 702-329-2936.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . control erosion and acquire open land. Reno. 4590 South Virginia Street. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. restore forest and watersheds. year-round outdoor playgrounds. but the future of the Basin itself. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. At press time. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. trees and sky. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. % 800-FOR-RENO. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. rock. In reality. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. NV 89502. In 1861. local. a marvelous intermingling of water. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. Fortunately. in his journal Roughing It. All told. the waters are now finding friends in high places. Reno. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. 405 Marsh Avenue. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. respectively.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. The park. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. Three miles south of Incline Village. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. restrooms and picnic areas. is a welcome respite. under On Foot. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. % 702-831-0494. The north end of the beach. along the eastern shoreline. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge.50 for adults. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. is well-known to snorkelers. After the buzz of the ranch. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. called Diver’s Cove.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. Reno-Tahoe Territory .50 for kids. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. Admission is $8. $5. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. But in between them. Viewed from the highway. at 10. The beaches are open daily.776 feet. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. % 702-831-0691. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. (See below.) Up the twisting NV 431. % 702-849-2511. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. open May through November. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. with its full slate of running water. stands out amid the pines. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens.
snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. PO Box 16299. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. a nature trail circles the lake. under Adventures and Accommodations. The day-use fee is $5. also offers excursions. Stateline. 96151. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. The price for such sloth is $10. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. then into the broad Washoe Valley. horseback riding. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. This is the home port of the Dixie II.) For the unmechanized. % 702588-3000. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. condos. For information. Every summer.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. and just beyond that is Cave Rock.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. restaurants. NV 89449. canoeing. (See below. Booming in the winter (see below. South Lake Tahoe. % 702588-3508. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. % 800-AT-TAHOE.50 per adult. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. PO Box 7139. % 702-588-4591. Sailing. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. offices and shops. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. $6 per child. under On Snow).250 feet in five minutes. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. At Tahoe Village. under On Snow. (See below. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . The next stop is Zephyr Cove. May through November. % 916-583-9048. CA.
US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. In November. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. the mansion and all its furnishings. Washoe Lake covers about 3. The original owners. Camping. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. camping and hiking (see below. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. under Adventures. Bowers Mansion County Park. a hunt that lasted 20 years. When restoration began on the house 70 years later.000 acres. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. the boom rolled in at full throttle. % 702-687-4319. pages 83. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. site of Washoe Lake State Park. 1851. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. the world’s largest silver strike. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. About 30 miles south of Reno. one mile south of Washoe City. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. The park’s centerpiece. was hit a year later in Virginia City. 87 and 98). off NV 429. (See below. % 702-849-0201. eventually lost their silver fortune. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. When the Comstock Lode. During the wet season. boating. windsurfing. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. Washoe Lake. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch.” On Halloween in 1864. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. US 395 slides southwest. and on weekends between May and October. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. Bowers Mansion. About 15 miles south of Reno. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country.
If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. exhibits of native fauna. Unlike most Western capitals. 101 North Carson Street. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. 600 North Carson Street. Admission is $3. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. 100 Stewart Street. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. % 702687-5030. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. It’s so open. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. . Just east of the Capitol. Headquartered in nearby Minden. % 702-884-3450. which was opened in 1886. Located in the Carson City Mint building. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. The Capitol Building & Museum. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. excepting state holidays. yearround.” In fact. % 702-687-4810. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. The library contains the original state constitution.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. the Capitol is open daily. % 702-687-5160. in fact. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. Call for schedules and pick-up points. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. the Nevada State Library & Archives. Open Monday through Friday. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits.
The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The nearby Brewery Arts Center.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. 813 North Carson Street. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. $2 for kids. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. the Carson City Brewing Company. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 302 South Carson Street. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. % 702-882-1808. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. The office is closed Sundays. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. % 702-884-2226. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. train rides are extra. 1207 North Carson Street. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. Admission is $4 for adults. Bliss Mansion. Admission is $2. Charles-Muller Hotel. and Bender House (1874). has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. Roughing It. The staff can provide trail maps. That classic journal. 2180 South Carson Street. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. % 702-687-6953. 5366 Snyder Avenue. Samuel. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. was named for its original occupant. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. books and permits for the surrounding area. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. % 702-887-2174. The Roberts House Museum. The building now houses a live theater. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . On the suburban south side of Carson City. The St. 502 North Division Street. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets.50. % 702-826-2766. The Orion Clemens House. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. Two blocks north. Admission is $2. The Stewart Indian Museum. % 702-883-1976. 1536 South Carson Street. 448 West King Street. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. The museum is filled with period furniture.
Up the street. 3. now long gone. first opened to tourists in 1862. the first permanent white settlement in the state. 2001 Foothill Road. at the foot of the Carson Range. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. The museum is open daily. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. California. As of presstime. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. Carson City. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. Before the school closed in 1980. 1900 South Carson Street. Guests can enjoy the water. to Genoa. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. The roots go back to 1851. Daily admission is $12. . n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. opened in 1863. Across the street.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. May through October.000 students had walked its halls. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. Walley’s. where he is buried. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. Genoa Bar. % 702-687-7410. % 702-782-8155. The place saw Nevada’s first house. NV 89701. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. % 702-782-4325. lies Genoa. saunas. May through October. weight room and tennis courts year-round. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving.
% 702-266-3343. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. Their riches. % 702-782-3133. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. and their spirit built the Silver State. the highway hits Topaz Lake. resting precariously . 1477 Highway 395. valleys. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. Virginia City. their sweat. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view.200acre beauty set at 5. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. Leaving Carson City. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. Housed in the 1915 high school building.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. including Western art and portraiture. Finally. % 702-782-2555. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. Just down US 395. which climbs up a narrow. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. About three miles south of Gardnerville. of all places. The otherwise barren hills. Minden was founded in 1904.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. a 1. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. Gardnerville in 1879. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. about eight miles south of Carson City. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. Beyond NV 341. circus items. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. 1440 Highway 395. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. boxing memorabilia. where it intersects with NV 341. In Gardnerville.
from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish.000 a ton in silver. The building is open daily. Admission is $3. underground mine tours. . % 702-847-0777. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. At the south end of town. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. % 702-847-0757. Admission prices range from donations to $3. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. Up C Street. more than 15. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. The Comstock Lode had been struck. Today. Not recommended for claustrophobes. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. and within four years. May through October. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. Here.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon.000 lived in Virginia City. % 702847-0975. The Marshall Mint Museum. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. is a looming.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. leave regularly. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street.
3. Admission is $2. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. % 702-847-9394.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. The headstones and gravesites. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. lives on in two buildings. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. is definitely not for the puritan. The Mark Twain Museum. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. June through October. Open daily. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. a room in the basement of a saloon. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. % 702-8470830. has a more eclectic collection. including an old jukebox and player pianos. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. Its extravagant interior. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric.50. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. After she was murdered in 1867. Reno-Tahoe Territory . is open daily. for a ride into yesterday. windswept plateau. % 702-847-0766. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. % 702847-0275. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. complete with ornate chandeliers. Mark Twain’s Memories. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. % 702-847-0525. % 702-8470333. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. % 702-847-0454. The Way It Was Museum. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. Finally. Admission is $2. The memory of Samuel Clemens.
One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. Today. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. After about eight miles. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. Past the intersection with NV 431. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. % 702-673-1150. There is also a developed campground.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. % 702-577-2345. The Byway’s terminus. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. wild horses. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. or mustangs. including Odeon Hall. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. little more than a few walls remain. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. % 702-847-0311. appears in Palomino Valley. After another 20 miles. number about 30. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. then exit at NV 445.
182 feet) to the west. Just north of the marina. the world’s largest playa. Another 25 miles north via paved. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. If losing yourself is your goal. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-547-0187. boating and fishing are extra.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. Today. or dry lake bed. since at least 9. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. Nearby. From Nixon. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground.000 BC. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. store and museum. of course. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. Tribe members administer recreation activities. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. the road passes Wino. continues to surround the lake. Fremont. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. They will provide directions and hours of operation. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. campground. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. thus christening the 27-mile-long. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. this is the place to do it – unless. Camping. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. boat ramp. according to artifacts found in local caves. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. A reservation was formalized in 1874. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. nine-mile-wide watering hole. site of the ranger station. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. Spreading north and east. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. % 702-476-1156. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example.
From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. about one mile south of NV 140. Help can be a long way away. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. and carry enough water. on 575. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. tow chain. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. spare tire. preparedness is imperative. Again. TAKE CARE In this region. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. A shovel. . % 503-947-3315. caution and common sense are key to traveling. birds of prey. songbirds. even with one. Besides antelope.
welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. % 800-FOR-RENO. % 702-829-1955. is a rip-snortin’ affair.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. Carson Valley Days. with food. % 702-588-6211. % 702-847-7500. % 702-847-0311. the Pony Express Re-Ride. water. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. % 702-782-2211. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. % 702-882-1808. The Way It Was Rodeo. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. bills itself as the “Wildest. % 702-883-1352. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. In Virginia City. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. % 702-588-9658. a rolling custom car show. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. % 702-265-5281. Reno also .” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. % 702-882-1802. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. heats up. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. % 702-882-1283. % 702-687-7410. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. is held in Sparks. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. % 702-329-7469. Richest Rodeo in the West. % 702-353-2291. In Reno. In Gardnerville. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. % 702-329-3877. In Carson City. Night Curves. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. % 702-782-2444.
Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. % 702-329-1476.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. % 702-847-0311. % 702-832-1606. deconstructionist Woodstock. In the skies. a sort of post-modern. takes place in Carson City. gather in Minden. is held in Reno. % 702-885-6939. and the National Championship Air Races. % 702-782-9711. % 702-826-1181. In Incline Village. On the Black Rock Desert. the notorious Burning Man Festival. come to Virginia City along with a parade. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. % 800-535-3045. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-882-1565. the Native American Snow Dance. % 702-972-6663. % 702-688-5767. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-329-7469. % 702-786-5700. and the Nevada Day Parade. attracts American Indians from many Western states. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. . October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. % 702-827-7603. The Great Italian Festival. the Nevada State Fair. Street Vibrations.
are more chilling than the mountain air. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage.12a opportunities. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. so dress appropriately. then climbs to a saddle. . After crossing Galena Creek. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground.14a). with parking on the left just south of the vista point. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. including Jello Wars (5. Farther south.11c and heavier. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles.11a and 5. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive.11a).Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. including Asylum (5. Falcon Press Publishing. however. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. At the five-mile mark. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28.000 feet. whips around a peak. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. Overhangs present experts with 5. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. all 5.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. 1994. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. crosses Jones Creek and turns right.11d) and Slayer (5. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. There are 10 routes. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. There are more than 20 routes. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill.
Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage.300 feet in just six miles. This hike is certainly strenuous. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. for children $5. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. elevation 8.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. After another mile. % 702-6881893.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. The trail ends at a highway. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. offers a beautiful willow. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. including great blue herons and birds of prey. Since the slide. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. % 702-847-WALK.260 feet. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. The charge for adults is $12. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. . a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. NV 431. Hours are seasonal. so call first. climbing 3. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. as are group tours. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983.
To reach the trailhead. contact the BLM. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. For travel information. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. As this is being written. Stevens Camp. CA 94620. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. write them at PO Box 20991. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. For more information.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. . For more information. For road conditions and closures. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. is a good overnight point. Mahogany Mountain. % 916-279-6101. Yellow Hills East. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. Madras. as are 7. From here.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. OR 97441. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. Oakland. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. great horned owls and other birds of prey. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. The trail.
Look for the Knott Creek sign. Outdoor Adventures. Nevada Guide Service. Reno. NV 89436. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. On the east side of the reservoir. Sparks. 20 Daylily Court. gaining 2. Silver State Outfitters. NV 89450. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. 3335 Vista Boulevard. to the soaring summit at 9. NV 89502. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. #111. 1135 Terminal Way.397 feet. 490 Kietzke Lane. terminus of the fairly flat. but they might also offer their services to hikers. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. % 702-851-1924. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. Incline Village. Patagonia Outlet. % 702-322-9559. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. % 702-623-1500. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. . % 702-832-5231. % 702-626-6916. The lakes. Denio Junction. Reno. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. PO Box 6145. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. Bighorn Outfitting. % 702-333-6795. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. NV 89511. jogs through alpine meadows.200 lung-burning feet. % 702-746-6878. backpackers and photographers. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. 8550 White Fir Street. A steep. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town.
% 702-8827779. the trail makes a high-altitude. 4339 South Carson Street. contact Tin Cup Adventures. % 702-3584824. After about three miles. 1941 North Carson Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. 1675 East 4th Street. call first for availability and directions.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. % 702-849-1020. offers ranch day trips. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702884-3453.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. 1201 Highway 395. Vogl Trek USA. also rents horses. 155 East Moana Lane. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. % 702588-5664. % 702-8252855. % 702-849-9651. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. Twin City Surplus. % 702-323-5630. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. Near Washoe Lake State Park. In the highlands near Mount Rose. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. Sporting Rage. Strictly Scuba & More. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. 4375 South Carson Street. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. % 702-885-7773. % 702-831-5465. In all four cases. which parallels North Canyon Creek. Zephyr Cove Stables. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. % 702-849-0570. Sierra Mountaineer. and offers picnic rides. % 702782-7011. Sierra Spirit Ranch.
The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. . The half-paved. to Vya. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. From here. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. Continuing northwest on NV 447. depending on point of view. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. don’t screw it up. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. To complete the loop. or ends. % 916-279-6101. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. % 702-831-0494. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. Put simply. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. north of Pyramid Lake. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. 84 miles back to Gerlach. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. For detailed maps.
89532. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. % 702826-0800. % 702-825-8258. % 702883-3210. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. 1993. 89502. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. Falcon Press Publishing. % 702-747-1413. Bobo’s Ski Shop. % 702-8871333. Bicycle Warehouse. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. also known as NV 206. along with Canada geese in fall. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. winter and spring. For more information. 89502. 89701. . south of Carson City. call % 702-688-1500. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. % 702827-3277. 89701. 89509. 1999 South Virginia Street. Excell Skates. 89502. 235 East Plumb Lane. % 702-3226001. & According to Jeanne L. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. 1200 South Wells Avenue. Great Basin Bicycles. 89502. Bike Brothers. % 702786-5111. Reno Schwinn.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. 500 North Carson Street. 1987 North Carson Street. 4135 South Virginia Street. 3450 Lakeside Drive.
& A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. six miles south of Gardnerville. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. PO Box 3007. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. offers 1. Contact the US Forest Service. 1685 Highway 395 South. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. On the Nevada side. personal water craft and kayaks. . Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. % 702-588-3369. During spring and early summer. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. Spooner Lake. 625 Fairview Drive. cutthroat and rainbows. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. The trip. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. % 702-8825007. via NV 88 and CA 89.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. rents powerboats. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. Entrance fee is $3 per car. Nevada. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. canoes. % 702782-0867. 89701. 89423. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. 89450. which can take up to seven hours. California. coyotes.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. red-tailed hawks. turkey vultures. kingfishers.
with campground and restrooms. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. both on the eastern shore. The smaller. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. are regularly stocked with rainbows. For more adventurous angling. However. Washoe Lake State Park. water levels. two to three miles up a steep trail. and charges a launching fee. thanks to Sierra runoff. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. although . planting and licensing information. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. only a mile west of downtown. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. catfish and trout. but in wet years. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. A better option might be Ophir Creek. For the stalwart anglers. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. For moving-water anglers. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. % 702-688-1500. For directions. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. There are two boat ramps. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. Idlewilde Park. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. % 702-6874319. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno.
and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. under Outfitters. Nevada Angler’s Guide. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. a health advisory is still in effect. Rainbow. There are two boat ramps on the lake. The reservoir is located on private land. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. while rainbow. used to separate gold and silver from ore. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. For more information. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. see below. % 702-688-1500. crappie and perch. More than 100 years later. however. In his book. boasts a handful of isolated spots. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. the setting here is primative. . Boats with outboards are permitted. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Camping is primitive. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. Come prepared.
Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. Tahoe Topliners. NV 89431.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. Reno. Tahoe City. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. equally divided among novice. % 702-588-4916. Don’s Fishing Charters. PO Box 6506. PO Box 815. rentals and a shuttle bus. % 702-825-2855. 96145. Reno. 490 Kietzke Lane. PO Box 10225. % 916-546-4444. NV 89502. With a base elevation of 8. . Zephyr Cove. Sparks. Zephyr Cove.. % 916573-0753. NV 89448.260 feet. Stateline. NV 89448. 294 East Moana Lane. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. 155 East Moana Lane.440 vertical feet of runs. NV 89502. intermediate and advanced. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. CA. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. PO Box 1909. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. Snowboarders are welcome. % 702-827-0600. NV 89449. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Mount Rose also offers lessons. Reno Fly Shop. % 702-358-6113. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. 89502. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. % 702-322-9559. % 916-541-5448. The Gilly.
and/or snowshoes. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. lesson. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. Heavenly. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. Diamond Peak. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. lessons. . NV. Snowboarders are welcome.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. trail pass) is $34. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee.500 feet). 89451. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. This is a monster of a mountain. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. which include a pass. 1210 Ski Way.000 to 9. lesson. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). childcare and a shuttle bus are available. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. all-terrain skis. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek.840 feet. day tours and amateur races. rentals. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. Lessons. with the longest vertical drop (3. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. $8 after 3 PM). rentals. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. For cross-country fans. six surface lifts. Heavenly has 18 chairs.800) and the highest top elevation (10. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. % 702-749-5349. Lessons. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. a new gondola and the famous tram. not to mention great views of the lake. and rental.000 feet above sea level. % 702-7823047. Incline Village. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. skate skis. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. % 702-831-8361.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. the greatest acreage (4. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore.
140 Vesta Street. 2500 East 2nd Street. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. % 702-8269096. 89502. % 702-358-4824. % 702-786-2020. 89451. 89502. South Lake Tahoe. % 702782-0867. % 702786-5111. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 916-544-1221. Sundance Ski Company.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. % 702-831-3537. Galena Ski Rentals. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 89502. of- . 89502. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. % 702831-3500. Sierra Mountaineer. 89502. Serva Ski. 89423. % 702-588-5935. In Reno.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. 515 East Moana Lane. 1200 South Wells Avenue. % 702-831-2922. 321 Sky Way. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. % 702-3239463. % 702-329-5358. 89502. CA 96151. 89502. Excell Skates. C&J Flight Aviation. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89451. % 702-786-7071. 1685 Highway 395 South. 235 East Plumb Lane. 89451. Mogul Mouse. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. Snowind Sports. 209 Kingsbury. Stateline House of Ski. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. PO Box 19215. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 89502. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. % 702-3226001. 2615 Mill Street. % 702-849-0111.
92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. offers 534 rooms. % 800-648-3353. % 800-99-RIDGE. has two. High Country Soaring. poolside service. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. The Douglas County Airport. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. % 800-635-0066. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. . $$$$. a dance club. the Sierras and. $$$-$$$$. Harvey’s Resort. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. Tahoe Summit Village. % 800-6483773. $$$-$$$$. of course. % 702-784-4944. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. Lake Tahoe. three. also features condo accommodations. 398 US 50. % 702-588-8571. Harrah’s. % 800-427-8397. eight restaurants. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. on this site since 1944.. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. $$$-$$$$. $$$$$$$. has 740 rooms. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). Lake Village Vacations. $$$-$$$$.
US 50 at Kingsbury Grade.$$-$$$$. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. As in Las Vegas. % 702-588-6644. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. % 800-322-7723. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. lawn games. Today. % 800-824-6391. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. $-$$. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. The Haus Bavaria B&B. with more than 1. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. $$$-$$$$. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. $$. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. % 800-624-7980. the Cal-Neva Resort. Harrah’s. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. combines great views. $$-$$$$. % 800-225-6382. 407 North Virginia Street. % 800-731-6222. A perennial four-star winner. $$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. $$. % 702-831-0287. a rustic feel. 210 North Center Street. has 33 rooms. % 702-8321234. 111 Country Club Drive. Among the downtown locations. The Zephyr Cove Resort. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. 24 Highway 28. which serves free continental breakfast. $$-$$$. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. first-class. % 800- . 300 rooms and a noisy casino. 593 North Dyer Circle. $$-$$$. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. as well as a gym with instructor on site. % 800-687-8733.700 rooms on 38 floors. 2 Stateline Road.
convention facilities and some impressive suites. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. 710 West Robinson Street. % 800-320-0627. 500 North Sierra Street. $$. % 702-882-3643. % 800-723-6500. 3575 South Virginia Street. $$$$. which features theme rooms. % 702-827-0255. an owner-built. Motel 6. The St. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. $$-$$$. % 800-937-1436. Freeway convenient. and Vagabond Inn. % 800-282-2444. % 800-648-5966. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. Away from downtown. It has more than 1. the new Peppermill. which overlooks the state government center. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. % 800-723-6500. $$. $$-$$$. a heated pool and other amenities. boasts nearly 600 rooms. 600 South Carson Street.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. has more than 1. $$$. $$$. 1100 Nugget Avenue. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. is a three-story. % 800-648-1177. % 800-622-1890. 2707 South Virginia Street. . free airport shuttle and skier rates. 310 South Carson Street. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. % 702-8821887. % 702-786-4070. the Motel 6. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. most notably the Days Inn. 1901 South Virginia. $. $$. welcomes bargain hunters. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. two heated pools and a hair salon. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard.000 rooms. Rates start at $195 per night. The Atlantis. $$. $$. 3131 South Virginia Street. Nearby. % 702-825-7134. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. 701 East 7th Street. including a barber shop. Charles Hotel. has a heated pool. $. $$. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. $$. $$. Circus Circus. % 702-358-1080. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. 345 North Virginia Street. the Eldorado. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno.
The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. 800 North Carson. $$$. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. 1435 US 395. The Crooked House. 2332 Main Street. % 702-782-7075. 11 with private baths. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. $. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. 1431 Ezell Street. including the small Genoa House Inn. $$-$$$. $-$$. The motel has 40 rooms. has five rooms. % 702-782-5697. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. some with kitchenettes. was built in the late 1800s. % 702-882-3046. % 702-847-0521. 8 South F Street. 2001 Foothill Road. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. Pratt. % 702-847-0111.C. is the center of the action. 1979 US 395. % 702-847-9777. $$$. % 800-321-6983. % 702-8825535. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 300 Main Street. and a casino. $-$$. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. $-$$. 1627 US 395. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. $$. % 702-782-9711. It has four rooms. % 702-782-7644.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. $$-$$$. 180 Nixon Street. 1643 US 395. #800-628-7831. % 800-962-0732. the inn was built in 1872 by A. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. generic motels abound in Carson City. $$. % 702-782-8720. for weary wanderers. $$. two with private baths. % 702-557-2220. 565 South D Street. It has four rooms. $$. $-$$. $$$. The Chollar Mansion. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. . Its four rooms were recently refurbished. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. 907 South Carson. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. and Pioneer. There are 13 rooms. 1540 Main Street.
The French cuisine is made with fresh. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. seasonal ingredients. Famous Murphys. . n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. Open for dinner only. % 702-588-6276. of course. $. including a seafood and oyster bar. The restaurant also does its own baking. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. is a rousing pub with good food. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. The Chart House.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. 3127 South Virginia Street. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. 328 Kingsbury Grade. the menu changes every two months. % 702-588-6611. % 702-786-1323. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. The place has 14 rooms. ethnic food and full buffets. a casino. % 702-323-5550. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Open for dinner only. % 702-827-4111. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. Ichiban. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. try the Glory Hole. coffee shops. also run the gamut with delis. the lake’s first casino. no TVs and. Steak. 4201 West 4th Street. 1200 Razorback Road. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. serves fresh Japanese steak. The hotels. 3065 West 4th Street. 210 North Sierra Street. % 702-323-3200. % 702-588-2411. % 702-941-0371. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. % 702-825-1250. along with Caesars Tahoe. Reservations are recommended. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks.
is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. % 702-882-4556. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. South of the city center and south of the border. 2707 South Virginia Street. Heidi’s. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. this is the place. % 702-689-7226. % 702786-5700. Adele’s. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. El Charro Avitia. 234 North Virginia. serves fine French cuisine. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. . 1112 North Carson Street. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. 1301 North Carson Street. seafood and steak. There is also an extensive wine list. Two blocks away. 507 North Carson Street. dinner only on weekends. and Peppermill. % 702-8262121. 1540 Main Street. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. Silvana’s. 255 North Sierra Street. Boasting a large Italian menu. % 702-348-9297. 4389 South Carson Street. % 702-882-3353. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. % 702-882-0486. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. one of the top Italian eateries in country. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. % 702-847-0111. 402 East William Street. % 702-356-3300. The Carson Nugget Steak House. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. % 702882-1626. % 702-785-7000. % 702-883-6261.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. the Eldorado. 1020 North Carson Street. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. % 702-8835100.
off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. The overnight fee is $7. 2500 East 2nd Street. For information and fees. lies south of the river. % 702-322-2281. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. California. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. Reno RV Park. some for RVs and some for tents. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. 1300 West 2nd Street. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. 735 Mill Street. There are 44 campsites here. Set at 8. % 702-323-3381. Nightly fees are $6. which straddles the Nevada-California border.900 feet. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. % 702-8822766. % 702-789-2000. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. % 702-687-4319. call % 702266-3343. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. Open June through September. Mount Rose has running water. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. The overnight rate is $12. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. Showers are available. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. On the Nevada side. Simply wonderful. Rates run about $18 per night. the campground has 54 sites and running water. % 916-279-6101. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. Open May through October. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. office of the BLM. . with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. for more information. Big Spring Reservoir. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. The nightly fee is $5. including Virgin Valley. Call the Cedarville. the campground has 24 sites.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. % 916-573-2600. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. nine for RVs.
the gutsy riders. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. skinny. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Beginning in April 1860. willing to risk death daily. Bible and mail pouch. wiry fellows not over eighteen. pausing only long enough to change mounts. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory .Pony Express Territory vada. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. On October 24. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Joseph. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. California. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures.. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. carrying only a pistol. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart.” Riders. Missouri. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. 1861.. tore between stations. Want ads called for “Young. and Sacramento. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Orphans preferred. Incredibly. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir.
As might be expected. so be prepared for anything. In the higher mountains. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. there is excellent skiing. Great Basin. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. glacier-carved peaks. Ranging in elevation from 3. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. Near the town of Ely. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. Just a few hours from Ely. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. spans some of the most beautiful. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. this area has plenty to offer. hiking and wildlife viewing. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. But if you consider solitude.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. ridges and valleys in the country. . It also harbors a wildly varying climate.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
1050 South Maine Street.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. In peak years. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. snowy plovers. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. % 702-423-3677. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. Over 14. peregrine falcons. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. January through March. (See On Water.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. 1000 Auction Road. green-winged teals. April through December. % 702-867-3500. White-faced ibis. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. Admission is free. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. With 10. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. . Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. Sunday. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3.000 photographic images.000 years.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. % 702-423-5128. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. below. covers 77. In recent years. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. The Churchill County Museum & Archives.000 people. canvasbacks. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. pelicans. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals.
The hunting season usually opens in October. More than 21. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. On the south end of town. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. which features the famous Blue Angels. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Pony Express Territory .000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. is the artist in residence here. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. Over 8. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. Every spring. Adam Fortunate Eagle. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. and “management” means hunting. At press time. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society.000 years ago. Just off the highway are two short trails. Just east of town.
but strenuous. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. regularly emanate from the dune. 379 West William Avenue. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. volcanic cliffs around it. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. roars and moans. NV 89406. fauna.” Booms. wild West. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. % 702-423-4556. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. 100 Campus Way. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. % 702-423-2544. geology and history of the region. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. If the roar of engines ever dies down. Fallon. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. . A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. the low. Fallon. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. listen for the mountain’s “singing. about three miles past West Gate. A hike to the precipice is a safe. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. dark.” meaning sword. Near the station. NV 89406. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort.
then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. NV 89045. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. As always. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. 13 miles east of Austin.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. then to paved NV 376. population about 300. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. % 702-964-2200. the boom was followed by the bust. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. then climbs again to Austin. Six miles later. PO Box 212.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. NV 89310. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. past Bob Scott campground. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. Austin is a quiet. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). However the rush began.350 feet. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. PO Box 1149. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. % 702-964-2145. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. Three miles later. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon.577 feet. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. Austin. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . Spencer’s Hot Springs. Round Mountain.
then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. Just across Northumberland Pass (7.500 years ago. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. NV 89820. There is also a free campground here. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. is recommended for serious. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. NV 89310. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. After merging with Lower Mine Road. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. The limestone cavern. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. . a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. % 702-964-2200. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. are open to visitors just off the road. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. PO Box 1420. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. % 702635-4000. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. Austin. At mile 55. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. At mile 30. PO Box 212. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. The hill is located on private land.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. near Pete’s Summit. Battle Mountain. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road.000 years ago.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. experienced cavers only. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. A long. A series of safe.
Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. The state’s No. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. Eureka’s population of 9.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. completed in 1880 and still in use today. found in the valleys around Eurkea. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. The shell of the building. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. Not until five years later. The building. but most definitely worth a gander. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. and the Jackson House Hotel. however. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. % 702-237-5484. Still. some a little less gloriously than others. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. PO Box 14. But by 1890 the rush was over. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . NV 89316. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. Eureka. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. Eureka. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. By 1878. are still a major facet of the local economy. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. dates from 1877. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. Gold mines. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City).
because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. Situated at 9. % 702-237-5484. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. this mini-city (population about 5.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Eureka. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit.000 feet. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. NV 89316. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. running south into the Humboldt National Forest.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. n Ely Back on US 50. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. PO Box 14.500 residents. US 50 rolls across basin and range. Monday through Friday and by appointment. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. Entering town at night . A few miles farther south. Pronounced EE-lee. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike.
former First Lady Pat Nixon. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. Since they went cold in the 1880s. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. located on East 11th Street. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. The museum. East Ely. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. % 702-2894710. Return to US 50. There is primitive camping here. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. like many museums in this territory.50 per person. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. a bicycle. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. On the other side of town. Pony Express Territory . machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. The White Pine Public Museum. PO Box 150040. accessories. showers and hiking trails.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. as well as an original. furniture. clothing. % 702-728-4467. depot. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. % 702-289-2085. running water. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 2000 Aultman Street. Tours of the railroad yard. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline.300 feet. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. Admission is free. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. depart on selected dates from May through September. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. NV 89301. engine house. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. Call for exact dates and times. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. Prices start at $10 per person.
Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. sometimes by the hundreds. While hikers are welcome. % 702-289-8877. From Baker. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. % 800496-9350. Bristlecone Convention Center. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. a proposal to create a 6. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. % 702-234-7331. contact the Ely office of the BLM. Designated a national park in October. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. For more information. Most of the 77. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. 636 Aultman Street. untamed backcountry. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south.000 people a year visit the park. Only about 70. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. In 1922. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. In the 1950s a . As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. 1986. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. % 702-289-4865. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. 150 6th Street. That leads quickly to Baker.
who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations.086-acre Great Basin National Park. among others. the park’s crown jewel. Congress settled on 77. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. Finally. limited to 30 people at a time.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. stalagmites. % 702-234-7331. (See On Foot and Camping. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. or speleotherms: stalactites. . $3 for juniors. flowstone and soda straws. ski resorts and tramways. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. Call ahead for conditions. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. too. in 1986. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. then head straight out of the park. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. draperies. Tours of the cavern. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations.000 to 44. Prices are $4 for adults. are hard to beat.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. Baker.000.067-foot Wheeler Peak. While celebrating a victory. Christmas and New Year’s Day. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. The high-altitude campgrounds. columns. NV 89311-9702. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. which is actually one huge cavern. below. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. are held every day except Thanksgiving.
The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. which has picnic tables and shade trees. . More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. South Toiyabe Peak.600 feet. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. a few of which are even of gem quality. Tierney Creek. % 702-9642671. Bakeoven Creek. To reach Garnet Hill. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. or use paved NV 376. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. to reach the village of Kingston. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. Arc Dome.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. are spessartite. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Drive three miles to the recreation area. Set at 7. Millet Ranch. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. The garnets found here.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. Carvers NW.000 feet. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7.
000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. 1.000 feet along rocky. headache. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. which heads west toward the peak. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. This is some serious highcountry hiking. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. Baker. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. windswept paths. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. a unique.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. leave the high country immediately. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. After about 10 miles of hiking. If threatening clouds approach. The wilderness. with many trails climbing above 10. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. nausea. set aside in 1989.000-acre. which may be impassable when wet. The trail ends just before the summit. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. and Mount Moriah. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. is marked with trailhead signs. % 702-289-3031 for more information. which at 12. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. From the trailhead/parking area. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). as well as all the water you will need. Pony Express Territory .
Finally.063 feet. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. or cirque. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. the last 1.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. If it is safe to venture to the peak. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. In 1878. To reach the summit. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. then turn left again. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. then descends to Teresa Lake. This is another depression etched by a glacier. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. the six-mile . Use extreme caution here. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. the views of the 8. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. Continue straight. At 13. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. The bowl. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop.
700 feet in the first seven miles.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. Around mile six. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. Lehman Caves. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. this is a nice overnight stop. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. To continue the loop hike. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. To return to the trailhead. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake.926-foot Pyramid Peak. After about three miles. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. . This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. In good weather. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. Return the way you came. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. once the site of some mining activity. Kious Spring.950 years. Wheeler Peak. just off to the east. Turn left. subalpine conditions.
89301. % 702-664-2977. Wildlife West Guide Service. 89406. 89406. As of presstime. % 702-238-5232. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. PO Box 34005. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. 89406. Wendover George A. Daum. HC 34. 89301. Sportsworld. % 702-4239215. 89301. Silver State Stables. Box 33570. % 702-867-3388. 203 Heritage Drive. 89406. J & P Auto Parts. % 702-289-8886. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. 5030 Reno Highway. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. % 702-289-4208. % 702-2893063. White River Guide Service. .116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. % 702-289-4468. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. a quartermile. Burdick Guide Service. sells camping and outdoor equipment. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. % 702235-7439. Flying M Stables. 1050 Aultman Street. 89883. 89406. % 702423-9215. 89301. % 800-874-0903. PO Box 2560. 89301. 2005 Harrigan Road. % 702-423-5185. % 702-423-6171. 189 Aultman Street. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. Great Basin Inn. is worth a gander. 89301. 3125 Stark Lane. 701 Avenue F. HCR 33. 1707 Rice Road. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval.
Austin. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. brochures and campgrounds. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. For more information. A 10-mile loop with a 1. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. contact the BLM. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. PO Box 504. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. For more information. one would think tiny Austin. NV 89310. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. Dune-buggy. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. population 300. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . NV 89310. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. Austin. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. PO Box 130. the sixstory.000 per year. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. The route runs north out of the canyon.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. % 702-964-2671. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. % 702-885-6000.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit.
The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. sells and services bicycles. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. From the pavement. directions and road conditions. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. past the US Forest Service station. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. % 702-289-8886. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. and bring plenty of water. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. 1500 Aultman Street. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. when the weather is dry. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. % 702-234-7331.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. for maps. .
walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. In 1997. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. where worms and corn are said to work best. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. along with sportfishing. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. Lahontan State Recreation Area. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. The trout limit is 10. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Pony Express Territory . Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. surrounds a 10. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. White crappie can be hooked March through May. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. % 702-688-1500.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. Boat ramps are located in two spots. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer.
$-$$.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. via paved NV 376 and a three. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. % 702-289-3063. % 702-289-8886. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. Great Basin Inn. The Upper Reese River. which feeds the lake. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. and one of the best bargains. 855 West Williams Avenue.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. A few chain HO TE L . 1500 Aultman Street. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. 701 Avenue F. % 702-289-4468. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. J & P Auto Parts. % 702-289-4865. 1050 Aultman Street. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. % 702-423-6031. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. is one of the biggest places in town. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. The Bonanza Inn & Casino.
which is north-south running US 95. $$$. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. $$$. meals and overnight accommodations. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. $$. The Nevada Belle Motel. while on the southern edge of town. It is open seasonally. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. $-$$. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. 70 East Williams Avenue. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . % 702-423-2277. 1705 South Taylor Street. has 17 rooms. the Budget Inn. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. most of which are on US 50. which has 30 rooms. % 702-964-2471. rates and directions. 25 North Taylor Street.800 acres. % 702-964-2698. but after a long day on the road. The Eureka Motel. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. 180 West Williams Avenue. who really cares. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. and. $-$$. combines a B&B with a private. % 702-423-4648. % 702-237-5334. The ranch. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. % 702-237-5577. has 21 rooms. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. 115 Northwest Main Street. $-$$. a heated pool and a small casino. % 702-423-5151. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. instruction. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. try Jackson House B&B. % 702-423-4254. the Lincoln Motel. the 22-room Value Inn. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). % 702-423-2194. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. On the east end of town. the Pony Express House. $-$$. The red brick structure was built in 1877. For a real blast from the past. % 702-423-5554. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. basic equipment. As you drive in from the west. $. % 702-237-5247. which has 17 rooms. $-$$. The Sundown Lodge. including the Comfort Inn. also called Main Street here. $$. a heated pool and interior corridors. 1830 West Williams Avenue. $-$$. $. % 702-964-2306. has 27 rooms. with 10 rooms. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. is a modern. which has 49 rooms. Call for information. Smith Creek Ranch. called Main Street as it runs through town. $. % 702-9642605.
$$. % 702-289-6665. The inn is open June through September. % 702-289-4497. 1501 Avenue F. $. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. For a more modern taste. 701 Avenue I. which has 61 rooms. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. $-$$. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. $-$$. located on the south side of town off US 93. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. $$-$$$. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. is another living antique. $. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. There are also private balconies. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. 1101 Aultman Street. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. $-$$. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. 700 Avenue I. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. For a more genteel stay. $-$$. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. 930 Aultman Street. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. the building was vacant 10 years later.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. 220 East 11th Street. which has 19 rooms. The Bristlecone Motel. % 702-2891234. has 21 rooms. 501 Aultman Street. 770 Avenue O. 5th . Ely With a population of more than 5. two-story hotel. $-$$$. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). and its twin. % 702289-6671. % 702-289-4747. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. % 702-237-9988. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. the inn has five rooms with private baths. 500 High Street. % 702-289-4884.300. % 702-289-8687. After years of dormancy. $-$$. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. % 702-289-8900. % 702-289-8838.
guided tours and off-road adventures. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. . with its seven rooms. 150 4th Street. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. Utah. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986.. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. which has a laundromat and showers. even fast food joints are nonexistent. $-$$. % 702-234-7343. 24hour laundromat and showers. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. offers tipis and a campground. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. $. The Silverjack Motel. Baker.. $. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. % 702-289-4411. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. 1301 Aultman Street. It is open June through August. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. % 702-237-7302. $-$$. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. and Whispering Elms RV Park. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. and two others outside of Baker. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. along with horseback riding. South of Baker at the national park boundary. Behind the Silverjack. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. the Border Inn. NV 89311. $. % 702-234-7272. is a favorite spot for travelers. what with its 29 rooms. % 702-289-3800. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. PO Box 90. % 702-289-3033. % 702-234-7267. % 702234-7300.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. % 702234-7323.er. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. % 702-234-7323. so call ahead for operating hours. and the White Pine Motel. $. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel.
Toiyabe Café. Smack in the center of town. % 702-867-3750. including the few eateries. 1560 West Williams Avenue. Tony’s. The International Café and Bar.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. Open for breakfast. In the 1920s and ‘30s. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. is also open for three squares a day. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. % 702423-6828. 4150 Reno Highway. 70 South Maine Street. Denny’s. 875 West Williams Avenue. Kentucky Fried Chicken. lunch and dinner. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. is Fallon’s only coffee house. % 702-867-2769. specializing in omelets and steaks. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. is known throughout Fallon. The Fallon Nugget Casino. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. 1350 West Williams Avenue. % 702-423-5588. have been serving great burgers. If your mind is on pizza. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). % 702-964-9905. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. % 702-964-2493. Stockman’s Casino. however. 1955 McClean Road. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. % 702-964-2220. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. 960 Auction Road. Carol’s Country Kitchen. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. % 702-423-6166. % 702-423-2117. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. The Depot Casino. The Mexican food at La Cocina. % 702-423-3233. 125 South Maine Street. In 1929 and ’30. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. including McDonald’s. try Mary’s Owl . % 702-423-3111. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. Café Nations. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. serves up steaks. is home to The Diner.
21. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. % 702-964-2412. might as well top it off in Eureka. which features prime rib. Fallon RV Park. and Hubtotel RV Park. % 702-289-3033. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. located three miles north of town on US 93. % 702-237-5477. top sirloin steak and eggs. % 702-2289-3765.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. however. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. The Owl Club. % 702-237-5280. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. Jerry Restaurant No. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. 4800 Reno Highway. % 702-289-6665. % 702-688-1500. % 702-867-3636. % 702-237-5356. 2160 Aultman Street. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. The Fireside Inn. % 702-867-2332. where the restaurants are also along US 50. % 702-289-4884. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. 701 Avenue I. 562 Aultman Street. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. The Busy Bee Drive-In. and is attached to a bar. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. 5787 Reno Highway. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. Believe it or not. % 702-289-3905. has 64 sites. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. % 702-964-2627. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. serving diner-style grub. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. Lahontan State Recreation Area. 501 Aultman Street. West of Fallon. offers 45 sites. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . 211 5th Street. serves a fine steak sandwich. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. is also open 24 hours a day. % 702-289-3313. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. and Orient Express. 1455 Aultman Street. % 702-289-4888.
For more information and road conditions. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. For information. NV 89820. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. Austin. There are 10 sites here . % 702-635-4000. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. About nine miles south of Big Creek. where there are eight campsites set at 7. To reach Bird Creek campground. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. set at 7. along with campfire rings. 24 miles east of Austin. Just east of town. NV 89310. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. picnic tables and vault toilets. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. Only six miles southwest of Ely. Open April to October. There is drinking water here. which are open June through September with running water. Finally.800 feet. grills. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. contact BLM Battle Mountain District.500 feet. % 702-964-2671.936-foot peak near Murray Summit.300 feet. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. Just east of the Eureka town limits. North of Ely. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. None have running water. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. both off of US 50. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). then go a mile to County Road 1059. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. PO Box 1420. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. as there are no services near the water. There are 15 sites. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. After a few miles. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. Austin RV Park. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. Bob Scott Campground. Battle Mountain. No running water or firewood. % 702-964-1011. PO Box 130. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery.
on US 93. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. % 702-2893303. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93.886 feet. Set at 7.530 feet.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. has 100 sites. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park.250 feet). there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. The BLM. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. 89301. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. On the northern edge of the park. this is the only park campground open all year. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay.752 feet. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. To reach the campground from US 50. In the center of the park. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. depending on weather conditions. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. % 702-2893031. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. % 702-2893413. Ely. In Great Basin National Park. NV. Upper Lehman. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Contact the visitors center. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. and there are no showers. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. and Valley View RV Park. % 702-289-4865. % 702-234-7331. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road.300 feet. For more information. 350 8th Street. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. Pony Express Territory . There are 30 sites here at 7.
Today in Cowboy Country. who described them as “lowly old giants. humans. Named Methuselah. call many parts of this high country home.000 feet and more. Desert bighorn sheep. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. sagebrushcovered sea.700 years. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces.000-year-old duck decoys.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. . F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. however. the oldest living thing on earth. reaching as high as 11. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. started pulling core samples. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. Edmund Schulman. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. not many of them stayed around very long. Throughout history. The short. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. He found one living specimen dating back 4.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. the state animal. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners.
Carry good maps and a compass. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. In 1993.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. The weather here can be as wild as the land. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. Winter brings rain and snow. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists.000 years. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. bass and other gamefish. and know how to use them. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. bikers and equestrians. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. Summers are generally hot and dry. towns like Winnemucca. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. In fact. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. Elko headed the list of the 100 . attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. lakes and reservoirs. streams. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past.
The famous trail. lunch and dinner. took to sheepherding. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. combed Cowboy Country. Cowboy Country . have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. but thanks to new mining technology. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. including one named Samuel Clemens. others moved on. parts of which are still visible today. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. followed by the doomed Donner Party. But since the early days. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. but everyday tools. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. both held in Elko. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. after the riches ran out.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. In late 1860s. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. paralleled the Humboldt River. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. This is a place where pick-up trucks. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns.
the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. arrived here in 1866. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. After eight miles. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. With a population of just over 2. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter.300. which crosses the Humboldt River. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. about 17 miles from Lovelock. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. Five miles southwest of the shelter. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. The seat of 6. which the company named after him. which measures . turn left on Derby Road.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River.000-square-mile Pershing County. located on the southern outskirts of town. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. George Lovelock. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC.
contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. Scientific excavations. Admission is free. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. Tufas. clothing and household items. dark. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. in 1886 or 1887. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. are large. % 702-273-2713. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. One of only two round courthouses in the country. PO Box 821. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. He may have been led there by Natchez. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . which also features the community pool. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. NV 89419.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. many of which were donated by locals. the first ever in the Great Basin. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. Lovelock. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. Mummified remains were found here. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. picnicperfect park.
About 16 families reside in Unionville. below) and wellmanicured homes. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. % 702-273-2713. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. Lovelock. which seems close enough to touch. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). is centered on this man-made lake. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. where stone . For details. % 702-538-7321. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas.134 n Cowboy Country vada. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. as well as opportunities for boating. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. Open all year. After later taking the name Mark Twain. PO Box 821. NV 89419. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. see below under Adventures. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. fishing and camping. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped.
a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. dancing. a good spot for a picnic. To reach Unionville from I-80. % 702-623-2912. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. Today their descendants. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. except for lunch. Edna Purviance. the Humboldt Museum complex. Curator . 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. a former resident. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. % 702/623-2225.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. From here it’s five miles to the town. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. They later brought their families. Winnemucca (population 7. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. Admission is free. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women).
The thieves escaped to Texas. 602 Bridge Street. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. % 702-623-5025. Like something out of old Mexico. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. % 800-962-2638. Winnemucca. % 702-623-1500. nabbing $32. 352 Bridge Street. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. Winnemucca. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. St. but all are easily drivable.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. The tour visits 30 sites. NV 89445. There is a gift shop next door. was erected in 1863. NV 89445. along with a thank you note. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. The former First National Bank. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. US Forest Service. 95 Bridge Street. NV 89445. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. . Another gem is the Shone House. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. NV 89445. Winnemucca.000. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. 705 East Fourth Street.000 in gold. Winnemucca. one of two in the country. % 702623-5025.
The Rochester Mining District. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. Three years later the village became Paradise City. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. and 2. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. which . Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. which serves as a meeting place and information center. after fending off resident Paiutes. Midas is two miles from this junction. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. all but 250 people left. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet.300 people had moved by 1913. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. Jungo. established Scottsdale in 1866. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. A 20th-century ghost town. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. The camp was abandoned by 1869. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. along with the local watering hole. To reach the remains of the camp.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. the town was an empty shell. Today about 100 people live in town. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. once a busy town of more than 2.
A state park. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. is easy to locate. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. Basque . (See Adventures and Camping. beautiful high-country lake. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. It’s the white. sometimes an angler’s paradise. After all. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. % 702-7383418. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. however. this town of about 25. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. located on the extreme east end of town. deli and soda fountain.) In town. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. fishing and camping.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. % 702-578-3381. Just south of town. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. 1515 Idaho Street. verdant marshes. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. biking.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. obtain maps. In Winnemucca. The local mining. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. Paradise Saloon. (See Adventures. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. this is Cowboy Country. % 702-623-5025. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. offers a bar. Gas is also available.
The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. Admission is free. geography.Touring n 139 immigrants. % 702-738-5131. The Western Folklife Center. % 800-8727245. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. geology and industry abound. % 702-738-7508. Deweys Rent-A-Car. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range).000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. El Aero Services. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Harris Field. also known as J. % 800-654-3131. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. % 800-331-1212. 501 Railroad Street. Hertz Rent-A-Car. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. 1 PM to 5 PM. % 800-453-9417. along with various other events throughout the year. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. Displays of local wildlife. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. and a charter airline. . contact the field at % 702-738-5138. For airport information. 10 AM to 5 PM. and Sunday. % 702-738-7123.C. 9 AM to 5 PM.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10.
1601 Idaho Street. Elko. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. 89801. At the . Elko Chamber of Commerce.800 feet). NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. From Elko. Elko. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. Elko. Elko. Humboldt National Forest. passing Powerhouse picnic area. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. 89801.387 feet at Ruby Dome. located southeast of Elko. fishing and camping in the entire West. 976 Mountain City Highway. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. 89801. % 702-753-0200. (See Adventures and Camping. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. 90. with elevations ranging up to 11.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. From town. 700 Moren Way. % 702-738-7135. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. 89803. % 702-738-5171. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. including the remote.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. Alpine vistas. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. 3900 East Idaho Street. % 800-248-ELKO.
U-shaped valley. is spectacular. For details on all of this. Nevada. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. Idaho. Yes. The road leads east 21 miles. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. Ruby Dome. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks.387 feet. this town sticks to Mountain Time. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. rising 11. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. is visible in the west. so drive cautiously. check with the owners of the Trading Post. (See On Foot. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge.500 people flooded into the region. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. the road meets the Jarbidge River. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. For access to both. and there’s no argument here. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. . see below. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. More than 1. a high clearance vehicle is required. From Wells. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. then north another 25 miles. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down.Touring n 141 crest. down into Jarbidge Canyon. From the south. turns south. or call them at % 702-488-2315. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. and by the 1930s the rush was over. Even when they are open. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada.
billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. the presence of casinos. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. and the 37.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever.) On the Utah side of the state line. however. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. This is also the junction of US 93. the 44. the main difference between the two sides being. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. n Wendover From Wells. n Wells From Elko. of course. Sunday until 9 PM. which rises to 11. try Stuart’s Foodtown.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. the main artery running up the east side of the state. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. For ghost town fans. stare out across the famous. 647 Humboldt Avenue. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. % 801-665-7721. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. The town was abandoned in 1942. reached easily via a paved highway. % 702-752-3215. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. exit at No. Cool. The range is also home to Angel Lake. 4 and go five miles northeast. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. To access the flats. Before entering town. head east from the border. both available at the Trading Post. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. Bonneville Speedway Museum. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the .
% 702-664-3414. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. June Both hay. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. the historic World War II B-29s.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. which attracts upwards of 10. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. a . Eagles.600 feet in two miles.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races.000 buckaroos. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. falcons and ospreys are common. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. The night before the events. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. is held in late March or early April. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. which gains 1. hawks.
. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. featuring food. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night.. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. dancing. when tanks. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. under Touring. For details.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. Unless otherwise indicated. The town of McDermitt. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. a parade and feats of strength. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. Phone numbers can be found above. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. call % 702-635-8245. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. July In July. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. The largest Basque get-together in the US. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. There is a traditional dance contest.or 23-mile loop. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. hear the music and eat the food. In Wendover. Near Wendover. six.
000 feet in four miles. Granite Peak (elevation 9. To reach the trailhead. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. The trailhead appears after three miles. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. the road. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. Star Peak (elevation 9. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. climbing more than 4. From here. 1994. passable by high-clearance vehicles. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. crossing Buffalo Creek. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak.732) is the highest point. leads due east toward the highest point. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. willow and cottonwood country. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles.200 feet.834 feet). The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. The trail is punishing.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. The first half of the moderately strenous. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. Star Peak. From the top. This makes for a great loop drive. Pronghorn antelope. To reach the trail. which . Falcon Press Publishing. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. including the 31. Aspen. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. Chartered in 1989.
Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. narrow canyons. where you turn south.800 feet above sea . big horn sheep. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains.6 miles to a parking area. USGS 7. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). depending on weather conditions. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. rolling sage-covered hills and steep.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. about one mile south of town. cirque basins. descends toward a watercourse.415). The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. Horses are welcome on these trails. Return the way you came.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. Come prepared for anything. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. glacial lakes. Mountain lions. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching.” Elevations range from 6. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. more than 10. % 702-623-5025. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. Hikers can visit rock peaks. including Singas Creek. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9.
The five-mile.300-foot . take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. know this region as well as anyone. this is the high point of the trek. Pause to rest but not to fish. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. % 702-752-3357. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. At 10. so check road conditions before heading out. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead.Adventures n 147 level. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. From Roads End. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. granite landscape to Liberty Pass.400 feet and heads north. Feel free. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. % 702-738-7135. set at 9. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells.400 feet. and his dog Molly. of course. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. After about a mile and a half. The pass is often closed in winter. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. as there are no trout here. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille.500 feet. Franklin Lake NW. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. The 1. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. Hyslop. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake.
the closest town. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake.000-foot mark. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. Wild- . Just past the spring. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. Finally. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. Idaho. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. subalpine forests. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. Most of the paths are found in the 113. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. Unfortunately. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. The trail drops again. From the trailhead.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. On a good day. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy.700 feet. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. Return the way you came. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air.000 feet to 10. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . campsites and restrooms.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. % 702-623-5025. mountain whitefish. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. Channel cats. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. call % 702-758-6493. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. To reach the lake from Elko. supports brook. and everything is open year-round. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. is also a good fishing spot. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. For more information. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. rainbows. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. and black bass have become a favorite catch. The site has a paved boat ramp. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. brown and rainbow trout. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca.
Within six miles of the trailhead. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. . great sandhill crane. At the foot of the range. white-faced ibis. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. To reach the refuge from Elko. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. For an easier drive from Wells. Angel Lake Near Wells.000 acres. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. trumpeter swam. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. contact the US Forest Service. midway between the northern and southern portions. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko.800 feet. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. including bald and golden eagle.154 n Cowboy Country ers. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. short-eared owl and American kestrel. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. Turn left and head south 32 miles. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. so check road conditions before heading out. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. % 702-738-5171. elevation 8. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. For more information.
To reach the 2. are the best bets here. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. Elko Guide Service. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. HC30 Box 17 #13. 2511 Mountain City Highway. crystalline Blue Lakes. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. HC 60. HC 60. Grandview Marine. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer .400-acre lake. 423 South Bridge Street. the spring-fed. 89833. 89801. % 702-7388473. the bowcut trout. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. PO Box 685. For more information. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. catfish. Rainbow. % 702-777-DIVE. % 702-7442277. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. Raley’s. % 702779-2226. Secret Pass Outfitters. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. PO Box 515. % 702-7382775. 89801. % 702779-2268. % 702-625-2453. 89801. In warmer months. 285 12th Street. 89833. % 702-664-3414. 89801. have become a local haven for divers. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. 1250 Lamoille Highway. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers.
1420 Cornell Avenue. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. % 702-273-2937. restaurant. % 702-538-7585. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. with a 24-hour casino. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. then head west for five miles to town. is the most happening place in town. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. $$$. The Lovelock Inn. Although there isn’t a television to be found. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible.000 acres of skiable mountain. offers 130 acres of terrain. To reach the ranch from I80. There is one chairlift and one surface lift.500 to 6.500 feet. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. 2805 Unionville Road. Lunch and dinner are extra. % 702-738-7135.200 vertical feet. $$. . 55 Cornell Avenue.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. Trips are limited to 16 people. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. lounge. is convenient to I-80. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. not to mention 74 rooms. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. % 800-528-1234. Elko SnoBowl. lodging and all the extras. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. depending on snowfall. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. ranging from 5. one tame and the other decidedly not so. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range.200 feet. covering 5. pool and jacuzzi. $-$$. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. The outfit boasts 5. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. % 702-753-6867. The Best Western Sturgeon’s.
837 Idaho Street. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$. $$. restaurant and bar. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. % 800-262-8901. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. % 800-645-5658. % 702-738-8421. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. % 702-7387261. and the Holiday Motel. 1930 Idaho Street. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. % 702-738-8787. a lounge with live entertainment. There are also two Best Westerns. but also its own charter airline. $$-$$$. the Gold Country Motor Inn. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. % 702-625-1818. $$. in- . The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). the Red Lion Inn. and the Motel 6.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. 400 1st Street. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$. $$-$$$. 2050 Idaho Street. % 702-623-1116. There are plenty of cheap. $-$$. $-$$. % 800-346-5306. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. $$$$$. The Gold Country Inn. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the 80-room Val-U Inn. restaurant and full bar. % 800-545-0044. basic motels on the main drag. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the Ameritel Inn Elko. and the generic. and the Model T Motel. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. $$-$$$. $$. including the queen of Elko establishments. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. % 702-623-3646. $-$$. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The Red Lion not only has a casino. with 150 rooms. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant.000. offers 40 rooms. and the Days Inn. the 170-room Holiday Inn. the Red Lion Inn. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$$. 3015 Idaho Street. % 702-623-3661. $-$$. % 702-738-8425. is for you. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. % 702-623-5248. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. a pool and 223 rooms. % 702-623-1180. offering 70 rooms. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. eateries. Casino Express. the Super 8. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. starting with the two biggies. casino. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. 2065 Idaho Street. $$$. % 800-633-6435.
including skeet shooting. $$$-$$$$. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. along with a pool. hiking and fly fishing. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. 2401 Mountain City Highway. Away from Idaho Street. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. % 702-738-5522. PO Box 281381. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. $-$$. % 702-738-8488. % 702-753-6281. jacuzzi and fitness center. $$$-$$$$. detached cabin with jacuzzi. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. $$. some with kitchenettes. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. restaurants. biking and horseback riding. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. is an exclusive. Jiggs Guest Ranch. The Shilo Inn. $$-$$$. There are 141 rooms. bar and pool. Stockmen’s Hotel. . a swimming pool. $$$$. % 702-578-3530. 340 Commercial Street. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. Red’s Ranch. Stonehouse Country Inn. % 702-738-5141. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. has 70 rooms. 1755 Idaho Street. Just outside of Lamoille. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. % 702-738-7115. Lamoille. There is even space for campers and RVers. % 702-753-6363. $-$$. and the Thunderbird Motel. 89828. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. $$-$$$. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. $$. 345 Idaho Street. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. $$$-$$$$. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. % 702-753-6356. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. $-$$. PO Box 281208.
contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. if you’re into chains. the Outdoor Inn. most of them planted along 6th Street. On Main Street. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. $-$$. the Rest Inn Suites. $$$-$$$$. For more information. PO Box 300. % 800-848-7300. Down the street. % 702-752-2277. Jarbidge. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. % 702-752-2116. % 702-752-3353. There are more than 1. 576 6th Street. $-$$$$. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. % 702-7523065. $-$$. $-$$. even by the neighbors in Utah. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. % 702-488-2315. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. % 702-488-2311. 456 6th Street. $. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. $$-$$$. Cottonwood Ranch. and the Old West Inn. and the Best Western Sage Motel. PO Box 1300. has 56 rooms. $. $. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. % 702-752-3384. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. 89826.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. PO Box 260090. $-$$. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. the Chinatown Motel. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. which also has a restaurant and bar. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. On the north side of town. HC 62. 1250 East 6th Street. There are 57 rooms. % 702-752-2151. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. HC 62. % 702-752-2101. % 702-752-3888. 930 6th Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. If not. $$-$$$. The Super 8. 326 6th Street. 100 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-752-3604. offers another 24 rooms. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. % 702-4082338. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. $. Together .
$$. % 702-273-7773. a 14. Mexican food and pizza. 750 Cornell Avenue. 485 Cornell Avenue. which has live entertainment. offers breakfast. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. % 702-273-2442. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. which basks in the Basque tradition. leg of lamb. % 702-273-2971. % 702-623-3197. lounges. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. live entertainment. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. . In the center of town. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. live showroom entertainment. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. 260 Maine Street. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. % 800-537-0207. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. a health club. % 702-273-3232. and until 2 PM on Sunday. La Casita. tennis courts. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. 9 PM on Sunday. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. Nearby. jacuzzi. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. lunch and dinner. with 90 rooms. The Peppermill Hotel. % 702-273-7444. 410 Cornell Avenue.000-square-foot casino. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. is another gamer’s haven. 1420 Cornell Avenue. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. restaurants. serving steak. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. $-$$.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. and Pizza Factory. along with daily specials. pool. is open until 10 PM every day. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. shrimp and Basque side dishes. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. $$-$$$. including restaurants and lounges. Wee B’s Pizza & More. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. % 800-648-9660. % 702-664-2888. pool and jacuzzi. the Super 8.
% 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. Another Basque establishment. 180 Melarkey Street. 1061 West Fourth Street. Elko The Red Lion Inn. % 702-623-2908. % 702-623-6777. % 800-545-0044. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. % 702-625-2555. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. all of their meat is cut to order. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. % 702-623-4104. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. while The Griddle. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. seafood and chicken. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. Stockmen’s Hotel. 1550 Idaho Street. home of the world’s largest potato field. 2065 Idaho Street. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. % 702-738-3214. This being ranch country. % 702-623-4440. . Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. 405 Silver Street. Restaurante San Fermin. % 702-738-5141. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. but get there before 1 PM. % 702-623-2977. since 1863. The atmosphere is definitely casual. 340 Commercial Street. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. 95 South Bridge Street. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. Toki Ona. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. China Garden. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. Specializing in steak. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. The Steak House. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. % 702-623-3455. % 702-738-9691.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop.
% 702-752-3210. Burger Bar. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. 217 Idaho Street. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. depending on weather conditions. to peruse the ornate bar. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. Pine Lodge. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. La Fiesta. delivers on its name. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). 780 Commercial Street. where it survived The Big One in ’06. . % 702-738-7898. Prices range from moderate to expensive.300 souls. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. Pizza Barn. % 702-488-2311. % 702-738-7088. % 702-738-1622. % 702-753-6363. % 702-7382541. If you crave Mexican food. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. 1740 Mountain City Highway. 9 Beans and a Burrito. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. Main and Humboldt Streets. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. 2525 Mountain City Highway. % 702-753-3877. % 702-753-6356. also serves hearty meals. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. opens daily at 11 AM. % 702-4882315. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. lamb is one of the menu’s staples.
call % 800-962-2638. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. Set at 7. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. For more information. call % 702-738-5171. The Peppermill Hotel. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. 23. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. The other one. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley.400 feet. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. Sites 22. There is running water and vault toilets. 22 miles north of Lovelock. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. The main draw here is 11. the area has two campgrounds. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. For more information. $8 for a two-family site. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. % 800-648-9660. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. two beautiful US Forest Service . $3 per night in winter.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. call % 702-538-7321. Set at 7. For modern hunter-gatherers. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. Fees are $7 per night in summer. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. The fee is $7 per night. 100 Wendover Boulevard. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. 27 and 29 are especially good.600 feet. just north of the dam.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. % 800-848-7300. located at the end of Hanson Street.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. offer 12 different restaurants. 25. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. For more information. which holds trout and walleye. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek.
The fee is $5 per night. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. The campground. including three run by the US Forest Service. four steep miles west of Angel Creek.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. all free.900 feet. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. % 208-5434129.800 feet and is popular with anglers. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. has 37 first-come. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. first-served sites. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. % 702-752-3357. with running water. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. Angel Creek is set at 6. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. and the fee is $7 per night. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. One mile north of town. but no running water. For more information. About five miles up NV 225. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. . Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. offering 18 sites with running water. depending on the availability of running water. The cabins are open October through mid-May. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground.500 feet. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. For information on the above campgrounds. Set at 8. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. and are open June to October. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. and the fee is $8 per night. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night.
Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. US For- B Pioneer Territory . both socially and physically. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. an 11. like Belmont and Rhyolite. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. writer. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. Others. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. like Silver Peak and Goldfield.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. are in a state of “arrested decay.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. who once roamed this entire area. however. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. Meanwhile.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
temperatures routinely climb above 120°. In the Mojave Desert. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. Nevada Division of State Parks. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. Toiyabe. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. People and services are scarce. Department of Defense. In the lowlands. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. Geographically. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. Rocky Mountain elk. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. low taxes. and six state parks to explore. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions.Touring n 167 est Service. but the rest of the country. then limber pine at higher elevations. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces.000. affordable housing . The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts.
The 22. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. is the first and. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. According to Winona LaDuke. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). On the south end of town in a modern. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. as of this writing. % 702-7276900. 1771 Sagehen Road. there’s no competition). Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. contact the Chamber of Commerce. only winery in Nevada. blue and white building. authorizing up to 90. % 702-7270896. % 702-727-5800. In 1997. mission-style. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone.000-acre refuge is managed by the US .000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. It’s also one of the hottest. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. 1141 South Highway 160. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. % 702-751-0821. often overlooked corner of central Nevada.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. 3810 Winery Road. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch.
whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron.300 spread over 545 square miles. % 702-372-5435. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. moorhens. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. however. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. for some handmade Mexican food. Visitors can. NV 89020. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. coyotes and rabbits. following the signs to Ash Meadows. great blue herons. and the second-greatest in all of North America.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. snipe. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. Box 610Z. prairie falcons. then head west for about 20 miles. . Amargosa Valley. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. coots. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. whitefaced ibises. inaccessible to the general public. It’s no easy job. including ducks. % 702-372-1131. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. HCR 70. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. mallards. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals.
The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. PO Box 6102. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. 19 hotels. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. . Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. HC 70. 50 saloons. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. for more information. the gray. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. Now recognized as a state historic site. Kelly’s Bottle House. maps. NV 89020.000. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. % 702-5532200. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce.000 claims over 30 square miles. % 702-3725459. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. Amargosa Valley. three newspapers. and the old train depot. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904.000.
The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. Goldfield Founded in 1902. keeping a population of more than 20. however. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. turn-of-the-century frontier community. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture.000 dizzy with gold fever.” a collection of white. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here.000. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. when the money ran dry. % 702-553-2424. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. Once the largest city in the state. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. By 1920. constructed in 1908 for $500. Today the remains of stone buildings. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. crystal chandeliers. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. Local residents were used as models. life-size. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. . shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. In the first decade of the 20th century. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow.
About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. and spend a few hours following its trail. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. built in 1908 and still in use today. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. % 702-485-6365. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. % 702-482-9676. Before heading out. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. . % 702482-3558. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. however. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. the Central Nevada Museum. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. 301 Brougher Avenue. including the old post office that is now the local museum. and east-west-running US 6. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections.
are available by special request. and the 1907 George A. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. Admission is free. Located on the north edge of town. Bartlett House. power plants. with Hawthorne the new seat. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. The museum is open daily. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. slide show and research facilities. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. which dates to 1906. For more information. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. the town exploded – figuratively – and . Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. For more on these wonderful regions. As this is being written. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. call % 702-482-5355. see below under On Foot. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. which total more than 260. A library. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. ore bins. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. Like many Nevada locales. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. which helped put the state on the map. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. including a map room. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. 9 AM to 5 PM. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. As a judge. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim.000 acres. Mineral. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. In 1911. photographs and exhibits.
Victorian furniture. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. and by 1890 the good times were over. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle.000 residents. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. fire and railroad equipment. however.) Before heading to the lake.000. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. Nevada seat and the Mono . noon to 4 PM in winter. To see where it all started. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. rocks. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. below. the town boasted 1.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. Admission is free. restaurant and Native American gift shop. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. minerals. (See On Water. To reach Candelaria. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. Near the northern tip of the lake. at the corner of 10th and D streets. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. just three miles from the California border. Take this road six miles to the town. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. The main attraction. wildlife and fossils. a combination truck stop. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. is nearby Walker Lake. % 702-945-3266. 898 E Street. cameras and photography. At the zenith of its existence. The museum is open Monday through Friday. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. % 702-945-5142. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. The Mineral County Museum.500 people. paved road on the right. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. located in a long. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. is open year-round. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. The 2. For information on any or all.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. The park. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. All of them offer overnight camping. There are 42 campsites. % 702-728-4467. From .200 acres come complete with deep canyons. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. From Caliente. along with many other events. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. set at 5. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. below). The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. pinyon and juniper forests.200 feet. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. but travel is not advised during winter months. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. native plants and unique rock formations. Boats are not recommended.
All told. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. % 702-962-5215. Packed with historic points of interest. Winter travelers might also find snow here. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. for a walking/driving tour map. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. From Caliente. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. true believers theorize. hazy afternoon.000. The original building costs totaled $16. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . they ran up to $1 million. men in black and all things conspiratorial. government cover-ups. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. There are 37 campsites.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake.
Memorial Day through Labor Day only. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. The park is open all year. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. If you’re in the neighborhood. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. a bar and cemetery. or fish lizards. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. Ichthyosaurs. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. sleeping quarters. selling souvenirs and literature. % 702-729-2515. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. including the old mill. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. a thought scarier than any little green men. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night.
Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. From here. and roll on six more miles to the parking area.140 feet. elk.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. There are numerous access points to the 115. Interpretive tours are held in March. call % 702-867-3001. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. Located in the relatively dry.000 feet in 3½ miles. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. August. up through the sparse forest of . where desert bighorn sheep. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. following a stream into Trail Canyon. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. April. to NV 884. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. travel west six miles to NV 773. The hike begins on the road. The trail seems faint at times. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. October and November. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. the highest point in Nevada at 13. June. To reach the park from Hawthorne. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. For more information. The trail climbs nearly 2. through Gabbs. turn right. then half a mile east. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. Return the way you came. deer. From here go seven miles to a junction. July. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. mountain lion. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side.
Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. the trail gains 1. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. another narrow. Consult Toms Canyon. USGS quads for Carvers NW. limber pine. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. pinyon pine and juniper. and at higher elevations. Pine Creek. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. About 500 yards beyond the mill.020-foot Peavine Peak. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. About a mile and a half later. . The main trail leads straight ahead. where it crosses the water several times. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River.361-foot Arc Dome. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. too. The 38. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. up and up alongside the South Twin River.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. The path descends further. nine miles from the trailhead.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. continues a steep ascent to another saddle.
head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. which tops out at 11. is imposing Mount Jefferson. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. Turn left and head toward the highest point.000 years ago. 11. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. In fact. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. It was used as a hunting camp 5. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. Return the way you came.949 feet above sea level. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. going west. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. After turning west. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. From Tonopah.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. . A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. literally and figuratively. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. which marks the way to Pine Creek. deer and coyote. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. is lined with aspen and birch. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. south. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. The high point. The summit trail. mountain lion.
On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. set aside in 1989. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. The trail first splits at mile three. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. From the trailhead. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . climbing up the creek drainage. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. This is remote. To complete a nice loop hike. As you’ll see. The main trail continues straight ahead. Elk. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. with Dry Lake off to the west. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah.856foot Monitor Peak. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. The 98. rugged country. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. so travel with care. Hikers should have maps and a compass. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. and the skills to use them.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance.000 acres. Head north 26 miles to Belmont.
turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. 1997. Enjoy the views. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. crosses the water and begins a steep. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. Wilderness Press.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. Also close by. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. then descending into Ash Canyon. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. Meanwhile. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. . and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. % 702-4826286. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Once atop the plateau. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. some will lead hikes and photography trips. refer to Michael C. then continue south two miles back to the campground. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. in Echo Canyon State Park. White’s masterful book. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground.
Smith. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. Just beyond the right-of-way. Moapa Adam R. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. The road turns east briefly. % 702-964-1207. which. Roy Lerg. climbing into a small valley. 89447.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. Stahl. % 702-463-4497. % 702-964-2145.108 feet. then continues south to a junction. Mustang Outfitters. Jr. Round Mountain William A. Timberline Outfitters. 89045. 89049. 89317. 89045. Galvin. unmarked hike to the summit. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Grand Slam Safaris.. . % 702-283-7797. Timberline Outfitters. % 702-482-6258. 89049. Yerington Marty S. Howard.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. PO Box 168. PO Box 162. % 702-482-6422. at 9. HCR 60. PO Box 428. 8½ miles from US 95. 27 Smith Gage Road. PO Box 1149. % 702-465-2598. Lewis. Expeditions Unlimited. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. 89430. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. Nicholas Perchetti. Box 77206. leaving a strenuous. Berg. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. PO Box 65. PO Box 725. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. James S. you’ve gone too far. 89025. turn left and head due south. Mason Valley Guide Service. Lund Gary Luisetti. (If you pass Millers.
Just north of Pine Creek.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. Manhattan boomed. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. The Belmont Saloon. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. Continuing north. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. known for abundant wildlife. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. and Pine Creek. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote .000 to construct in 1876. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. which was first settled in the 1860s. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. so keep your distance. Belmont saw most of the 2. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. however. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. A few dozen people still live in the area. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. For road conditions. is open for business on weekends. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). The other ruins are on private property. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. % 702377-2490. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. % 702-482-6331. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass.
From Pioche. Take an unpaved road . Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. to establish missions. Wilson National Back Country Byway. mountain mahogany and aspen. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. but check on road conditions before you go. % 702-482-7800. Continuing north. For more information contact the BLM. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. The springs are half a mile away. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. . take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. As tempting as a bath might seem. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. Pioneer Territory Mt. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. the fauna changes to ponderosa. stay out. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. Not only is the water very hot. Mormon settlers were sent to this region.2 mile west of Lockes going south. then part of Utah Territory. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species.
Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. 5340 South Oakridge Road. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. % 702-727-8276. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. brown. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. 13. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer.140-foot Boundary Peak. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. cutthroat and rainbow trout. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. Two of the best spots are Peavine . Just a mile north of Dyer. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. % 702727-4504. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. % 702289-4865. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. contact the BLM. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. At Oakridge Landing. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. Information Sources For more information and a map.
After the road peters out.4 miles). For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. rainbow and brown trout.7 miles north of Hawthorne).000 acres. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. Fishing derbies are held in February. however.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. % 702-482-6286. picnic facilities and boat ramp.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. In fact. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. The lake is named for Joe Walker. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. October and November. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. April. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. . contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Covering 37. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9.
Contact the refuge office. about 13 miles south of the confluence. % 760-872-2533 . Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Bishop. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. 633 Schley Street.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. 93514. while Canada geese. CA. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. % 702-725-3417. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. Classic Anglers. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. write the group at PO Box 867. Kathleen L. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Brown trout. but motors are prohibited. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina.000 acres. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. are the main attraction here. which are stocked in spring and fall. Hawthorne. % 702-394-4040. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). for details. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Howe. NV 89415. Boaters are welcome. largemouth bass and white crappie. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped.
% 702-482-6258. home on the range. 89104. 89049. % 702-964-2145. % 702-889-8844. % 702-964-1207. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Howard. Tonopah Stanley R. 89049. which include an authentic trailside barbecue.. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. PO Box 1149.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. PO Box 168. Suite 9B. Nicholas Perchetti. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. at least temporarily. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. Mustang Outfitters. PO Box 65. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. PO Box 725. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. HCR 60. Timberline Outfitters. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-3721717. Jr. Berg. 89045. 89447. 1220 South Highway 160. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. % 702-482-6422. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. 89045. Galvin. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. The family-style outings. Timberline Outfitters. The big enchilada is Saddle West. James S. Stahl. Mason Valley Guide Service. Box 77206. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Advance reservations are highly suggested. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . is a new company started by local Ron Matheny.
including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. % 702-727-5445. which has 30 rooms and a pool. Don’t worry. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. $-$$. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. A lounge with live entertainment.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. Highway 160 at Loop Road. % 702-553-2225. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. % 800-508-9493. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. There are 60 rooms. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. $-$$. 420 West Main Street. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. $-$$. 604 Main Street. $. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. The Exchange Club Motel. $-$$. % 702553-2912. % 702-553-2333. has 32 rooms. casino and lounge. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. was built in 1905. along with a pool and honeymoon room. non-smoking rooms and a pool. $-$$. a restaurant. $-$$. % 702-4853431. $. a casino with live 21. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. % 702-553-2250. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. % 702-727-5100. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. With 110 rooms. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. hair salon. while the inn offers laundry services. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. 9000 North 5th Avenue. lounge. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. US 95 at First Street. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. including a heated pool. $-$$. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. 1201 South Highway 160. The other two motels are the El Portal. $-$$. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. a convenience store. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. . offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. In short. though.
free movies and is close to the convention center. restaurants. $. Even dogs are welcome. The . 826 Main Street. $$. Dating back to 1908. $. The Jim Butler Motel. $. $. Some of the larger. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. a casino. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. $. 255 Main Street. with 40 rooms. 700 Main Street. $. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. There are 103 rooms. a Jacuzzi and a pool. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. % 702-945-2444. If you’re into chains. $. % 702-482-6202. two restaurants. 540 F Street. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. % 702-482-3511. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. $-$$. has 39 rooms. $. pool and free in-room coffee. Adjacent to Walker Lake. and the 33-room Clown Motel. Just a block away. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. with a restaurant. 1100 Main Street. a heated pool and a small play area. % 702-482-3577. 100 North Main Street. arcade and laundry. the Butler has 25 rooms. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. % 702-482-6291. RV parking and free continental breakfast. % 702-482-6224. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. has been catering to travelers since 1943. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. and the sprawling Station House. 1 Cliff House Road. % 702482-5920. The Best Western Desert Lodge. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. % 702-482-9777. 323 Main Street. % 702-945-3321. a restaurant and free coffee. 521 North Main Street. RV hookups. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. comes highly rated. It has 94 rooms. Location. $$. workout equipment. 100 South Main Street. lounge with entertainment. This place has it all: 75 rooms.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. % 702-482-6238. lounge. including four two-bedroom units. which has 93 rooms. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. 1402 5th Street. location. $. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. at very reasonable rates. a casino. % 702-945-2660. a restaurant and bar. 1301 5th Street. also has a pool. % 702-945-3352.
restaurants. which has 14 rooms. a golf course. Jacuzzi. a pool and a hot tub. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. live entertainment. $-$$.900 or so residents. 694 Sierra Highway. has 700 rooms. $. 720 Sierra Highway. pool and spa. % 800-346-4611. % 702-465-2959. Run by the Masini family. $$. RV park and four bungalows. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702-463-2991. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. $. % 702-945-2573. 965 Sierra Highway. airport shuttle. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 301 Mesa Boulevard. $-$$. Jacuzzi. . Just west of Smith in Wellington. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. % 702-346-7444. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. has five rooms. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. various restaurants. golf course. $$. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. including dozens of suites. fitness center and live music. % 702-465-2573. $-$$. 39 North Center Street. Jacuzzi. $-$$. the Hawthorne. family fun center and an airport shuttle. To find a quieter environment. a 925-seat showroom. % 800-346-7721. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. $$-$$$. % 702-945-2544. which has two non-smoking rooms. bars. % 800-621-0187. % 702-465-2341. $$-$$$. movie theater and kids’ play area. bowling alley. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. tennis courts. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. The Casa Blanca. entertainment. $-$$$. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. 2827 Highway 208. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. on the corner of 5th and J streets. % 702-463-2481. $$. with blueprints for hundreds more.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. $. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. a pool. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. which has 14 rooms. a pair of family-style restaurants. % 702-463-2998.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. a lounge. and the Rocket. pool. 11 North Main Street. % 702-945-3316. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. pool. % 702-945-2143. 390 North Sandhill Road. formerly Players Island. has 67 rooms. $. which at last count had 1. $$-$$$. % 800-896-4567. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. pool and movie theater. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. with a 24-hour casino. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups.
884 A Street. also have full-service restaurants. % 702-9625404. $. is open 24 hours a day. At Saddle West Casino. % 702-726-3291. % 702-727-0909. % 702-751-7777. % 702-729-2515. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. . Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. $-$$. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. and welcomes pets. 450 Front Street. Flying saucer parking is out back. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. 100 LaCour Street. which has five rooms. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. % 702-727-7300. 1220 South Highway 160. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. 100 West Stagecoach Road. Rose Garden. the Silver Spur. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert.99. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. % 702-726-3106. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. $. $-$$. % 702-727-2404. $. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. % 702-962-5551. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. Besides. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. % 702-727-7777. which has 22 rooms. has 13 rooms. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. % 702726-3777. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. a restaurant and bar. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. and the buffet starts at $2. pharmacy and bank. % 702-727-6440. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. No fast food. $. 601 South Highway 160. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. Stagestop Casino.
fill the menu. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. % 702-945-1700. including excellent seafood. % 800508-9493.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. % 702-945-3321. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. Traditional American and Continental fare. also have family-style restaurants. 1291 5th Street. 348 North Main Street. % 702-553-2111. try Happy Buddha. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. is the home of two restaurants. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. The Exchange Club. % 702-945-3908. 923 5th Street. % 702-9452994. 570 E Street. The . The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. % 702-4823885. 11 North Main Street. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. % 702-945-2727. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. has a great $7. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. % 702-5532225. Maggies. and Burro Inn. % 702482-9777. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. Yerington Casino West. 100 North Main Street. open until 9 PM. % 702-463-2481. 501 I Street. % 702-482-6202. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. % 702-553-2368. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. 1100 Main Street. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. % 702-945-5253. The Station House. 785 E Street. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. 540 F Street. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. you could do worse than El Marques. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. % 702-945-3320. also has a 24-hour café.
% 702-727-2314. has a 24-hour coffee shop. % 702-4623300. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. Carl’s Burgers. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. The Mason Valley Country Club. % 702-463-2054. There’s even an indoor workout facility. % 800-896-4567. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. 2281 West Scales Way. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. % 800-621-0187. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. 11 North ALT 95.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. which serves breakfast. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. % 702463-2868. satisfying and never-ending. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. 45 North Main Street. Dini’s Luck Club. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. 111 Highway 208. % 800-346-7721. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. The Virgin River Hotel. lunch and dinner. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. % 702-7263194. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. along with the usual buffet. Two blocks up. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. To reach the campground from Tonopah. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. is like a blast from the 50s. The Casa Blanca. Peavine Campground is set at 6. 702-726-3138. serves breakfast. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. % 702-4633707. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap.
above. contact the BLM. From Tonopah. From here. To reach the campground from Tonopah.800 feet in the Monitor Range. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. . Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. % 702-4826286. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. For information. The campground is another three miles away. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. There are 11 sites set at 6. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. To reach the campground from Tonopah.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. providing access to fishing and hiking. see On Foot. For directions.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. the unpaved road goes south briefly. % 702-687-6100. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. offers sites for $11 per night. % 702-945-3373. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. There is no running water and no fee.100foot level. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. through Belmont. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers.700 feet. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7.
1994. 1993. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. 1997. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. Falcon Press Publishing. 1996. published by the State of Nevada. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. They are listed in alphabetical order. 1997. Henry Holt and Company. Suggested Reading . Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. 1995. DeLorme. 1998. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. Noonday Press. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. David Communications. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. American Automobile Association. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. American Automobile Association. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Falcon Press Publishing.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. Basin and Range by John McPhee. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. 1993. Moon Publishing. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. 1990. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. 1995. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. Frank Amato Publications.
Roughing It by Mark Twain. Legend and Description by David J. 1997. The Globe Pequot Press. American & Geographic World Publishing. . 1993. 1993. Jr. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. Bischoff. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Maturi. Stolley. 1997.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. 1997. La Siesta Press. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. Mojave Books. Falcon Press Publishing. 1969.. Wilderness Press. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. 1995. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. Gem Guides Book Company. 1992. White. Clark. Falcon Press Publishing.
182 Bowers Mansion County Park. camping. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. safety rules. 29. 132. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. hiking. touring. Reno-Tahoe area. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 43-44. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 152. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. Lovelock Indian Cave. specific towns airlines. 10-12. Reno-Tahoe area. 124 auto racing. 129-130 bungee jumping. touring. accommodations. see also zoos. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 2. 10. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. 117-118. Elko. 102. 131. 183-184. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 142. 169. see also camping. 179. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 28. 48-49. 67-70. 174-175 Austin. 144 Beatty: accommodations. camping. events. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. Pony Express territory.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. Bonneville Salt Flats. 27. 123. 197. restaurants. 194. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 155 boating. 91 Barley Creek. 3135. 15-16 bird watching. 174 canoeing. 36. 89. 193 Aurora. 152. 193. see transportation air tours. 67 bowling. 41-43. 163-164. 27 books. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. safety rules. 54-55. Las Vegas area. Pioneer territory. 200 altitude sickness. 184. 85. see also petroglyphs. fishing. Mount Jefferson. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 177 Angel Lake: camping. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. pictographs art galleries. 46. 103. 77. see transportation Carson City. 164. 104-107. 17. 125-128. 168-169. touring. 42 burros. 144. 137 Candelaria. 182-183. 182. camping. 78 BLM. 32. 187-188 biking. Pony Express territory. 117. 78. 86. 200 Basque people.183. Pony Express territory. hiking. 92-96. horseback riding. 115. 146. biking. camping. special events. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 181-182. 199-201. 144. 135. 35. 115-116 ballooning. restaurants. outfitters. 126. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. events. 198. 120-123. Reno-Tahoe area. 118. 119-120. hiking outfit- Index . 94-95. 144 backpacking. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. biking. 13-15. 113. 118. 186 Belmont. Pioneer territory. 156160. transportation. Las Vegas territory. restaurants. 15-16. Leonard Rock Shelter. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 49. Las Vegas. Ichthyosaur State Park. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 194. touring. price scale. 76. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. biking. 13. 154 animal life. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. fishing. skydiving. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 198. 185. wild. Cottonwood Valley. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 193-197. Pioneer territory. 15-16. 104. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 75-76. 38. festivals. 187-190. 187-190. 17. 132-133. restaurants. camping. 117-119. see water sports car rental. 121. wagon trips. 179. accommodations. 50-52. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 26-27 buses. 142. 169-170 Anasazi people. 8386. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 199.
40. hiking outfitters. camping. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. restaurants. 106 diving. 125. 75. 29. 160 Goshute Mountains. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. touring. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 188-189 Clemens. 121-122. events. 176. 112 Genoa. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 153 Chimney Springs. 185. 177. see events fish. 109. 137. 43-44. 3. 194-195. Shermantown. see water sports dog-sledding trips. outfitters. 119-120. 179. Toquima Cave. 125. camping. 116. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. restaurants. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. Metropolis. 12. 171. 137. 152-155. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. camping. outfitters. 131. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 170. outfitters. pupfish. outfitters. fishing. accommodations. restaurants. Midas. 120. 116-117. 137. 121. 192. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 77. hiking. 171-172 Gold Point. 110. 73. 46 Comstock Lode. 168. 18-19 climbing. 138-139. 70. 132-133. Reno-Tahoe territory. restaurants. 134-135. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. Lake Tahoe area. 119. 126. 174-175. 126-127. fishing. 169. Lehman Caves. fishing. Candelaria. Eberhardt. 109 Glacier Trail. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. Las Vegas area. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 157-158. 179. 137. 144. 118. 102-104. 167. 37-41. 150-151. 79. 15-16 Fremont. 117. 4-5 Gardnerville. 122-123. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 139. Las Vegas area. skiing. 87 Dayton. Pony Express territory. biking. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 83. Pioneer territory. camping. 187-190. 174. 12. transportation. safety rules. 155. 179. camping. 185. 97. touring. Pioneer territory. Camp Winfield Scott. accommodations. Dunn Hatchery. fishing. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. hiking. 86. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 147-148 Eberhardt. Rhyolite. 98 fossils. 149-150. touring. Hamilton. hiking. 93 Davis Creek County Park. camping.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 75. 74. 106. 35-36. Lovelock Indian Cave. 188-189 fishing. 143. John C. 172 golf. 88. 175 climate. 200 Cowboy Country. 190-193. 178. 125. 139140 Ely. 17. Samuel. 109. mercury warnings.. Rochester Mining District. 179. auto racing. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. sport-climbing ratings. 127. 170-171 Denio Junction. 13-15. Reno-Tahoe area. Jungo. 184. 112. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 182. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 78 casinos. restaurants. 14 Colorado River. 111. touring. 155-156. 176. 152. 65 gambling. springfish. 124. 161-162. 139 cruises. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. camping. 119. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. Las Vegas territory. accommodations.5 Cathedral Gorge. Treasure City. camping. 6-7 ters. 82. 177. 143-144. 142. 70-71. Cowboy country. touring. 22. 80. 112. Northumberland Cave. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 74 Death Valley National Park. 108 events: Cowboy country. 180 Earth Connections. 4. Gold Center. 115 Gold Center. special events. horseback riding. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 163-164. 120-121. 89. 100. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 170. 186 elk. 109. 142 Great Basin. 15-16. 190 . 71 Cottonwood Creek. 44-48. 67. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 98. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations.
181-187. 83. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. Walley’s Hot Springs. Reno. watersports. RenoTahoe territory. 111. Cowboy country. 148-149 jeep tours. 13-15. restaurants. 3536. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. 20. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 49-50. touring. skiing. 160. 36. 187 Manhattan. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 43. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. biking. 79. description of. events. 148-149 Humboldt River. 46. 47. outfitters. 90. 162. 150. 106. touring. 145-150. Pioneer territory. 31-35. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 38. boating outfitters. snow sports outfitters. 39. 64. 78-79 Jungo. restaurants. 165-167. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 200-201. accommodations. 149-150. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 132 Lexington Arch. 156. 23-29. restaurants. events. 70 Humboldt National Forest. Reno-Tahoe territory. camping. 91 information sources. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. camping. 129-131. transportation. 63-66. 112-117. transportation. air tours. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. Pony Express territory. 179 Kingston. skiing. 99-100. Las Vegas area. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. touring and transportation. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 32-33 Lake Mohave. 103 Hamilton. touring. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. balloning and soaring. Pioneer territory. 55. 82. 125. 198. 83-84. 90 helicopter tours. 1-6 Hoover Dam. Pioneer territory. 137 kayaking. 47 lakes. 57. 41. 45. 40. 28. 77. 46. 102. fishing. 146. map. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 163. see air tours Hemenway Park. 164. Las Vegas. 62. 82. outfitters. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 118. 44 Las Vegas territory. 116-117. 53-54. hiking. 65. transportation. 57-58. 140-141 land. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 83. 151. 32-33. 141-142. 32 horseback riding. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 149. 4WD trail. water sports. 188-189. 75. restaurants. 101. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 86. 177 mercury warnings. 24. 152. 176. 46. hiking. 78. Kyle Hot Spring. touring. hiking outfitters. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 48. camping. Las Vegas territory. special events. 192. 34-35 Lehman Caves. hiking. camping. 159. 186-187. 37-41. 54. 41-43. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 195-196. 40-41. 120 Incline Village. 48-49. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 39 history: Cowboy country. hiking. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. touring. Reno-Tahoe territory. outfitters. Nevada. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 162. 166. horseback riding. 1. 64. 130. 66. 21-22. 118 Lone Mountain. camping. 60. 98. Midas Hot Spring. touring. fishing. 117 hotels. camping. 107. 193. restaurants. 127. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 153. state. 110-112. Pony Express territory.Index Great Basin National Park. 52-53. 93. 158. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. camping. 91-92. restaurants. touring. hiking outfitters. 150. 119 Index . Las Vegas territory. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 50-52. 80-81 hiking. 29-31. 37-40. camping. biking. 88. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. Pony Express territory.
43. 43. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 72-73. Las Vegas Art Museum. 200 motels. 78. 61 music and theater. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 174. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. The Way It Was Museum. 29. 173. skiing and snowboarding. White Pine Public Museum. 200. hiking outfitters. 69. 73.206 n Index seum. Nevada State Railroad Museum. Humbolt Museum. 153 Northumberland Cave. 109-110. 174. touring. John. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 199 Metropolis. Nevada Historical Society. 25-26. 188. Bonneville Speedway Museum. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 75. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 26. 61. 134 petroglyphs. 187 Mojave Desert. 158. May Museum and Arboretum. 193-194. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 71. 178. 126. Piper’s Opera House. 73. 102. 26. Lyon County Muserum. 25. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 61. Lost City Museum. 133. Roberts House Museum. 175. 171. Beam Fine Art Gallery. Nevada State Mu- . 73. hiking. 163. 69. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 139. 34. see biking mountain biking. 71. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. Mineral County Museum. 108. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 71. restaurants. Capitol Building and Museum. 61. 2. 2. 80-81 Native American festivals. 70-71 mines and mining. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. National Automobile Museum. 70. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. Colorado River Museum. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 79. 109. Central Nevada Museum. 25. Marzen House Museum. Brewery Arts Center. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 142. 34. 171. 61. 98. 29 Mount Jefferson. 177. 32. 34. 103. Marshall Mint Museum. 25. 25. 177. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 199-200. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 174. camping. 106 nuclear testing. 26. 107. 135. 69. 173. Western Folklife Center. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. Liberace Museum. 34. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. Nevada State Library & Archives. 77. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 175. 69. 86. touring. 67. camping. 25. 165. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 73. fishing. 3-4. Desert Valley Museum. 153. Wilbur D. 69. 142 Midas. 2. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 35. 4. 73. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 23 Overton: touring. fishing. 68. 33. 197-198. Mark Twain Museum. 135136. 23. 181 Moapa. 177. accommodations. 68. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. hiking. Clark County Heritage Museum. see accommodations motorcycles. 199. 31. 167-168 Paiutes. 196197. The Castle. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 11 Mosquito Creek. 189-190 Muir. touring. 68. 139. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 10. 165 nuclear waste. fishing. Stewart Indian Museum. 107. outfitters. 8. 127 pictographs. restaurants. Keck Minerals Museum. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 183. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 83. 8182 Mesquite. 173. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 170. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. see biking Mount Charleston. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 26. Guinness World of Records Museum. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 72. 91. 180 Minden: events. Fleischmann Planetarium. 4. horseback riding.
114-115 theater. 98. 12. 93-94. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 200 temperature chart. 154. climbing and hiking. 36. 180 Pioneer territory. 80 pronghorn antelope. 52 pupfish. fishing. 94 special events. 163. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 144. camping. touring. biking. camping. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 160-163. RenoTahoe area. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 49-50. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. camping. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. skiing.” 4 silver. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. see also specific towns Rhyolite. hiking. motorcycle. hiking and climbing. 197 rafting. 9-10. camping. 163-164. Reno-Tahoe area. 84. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 144. 181. accommodations. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 59-61. 76. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). hiking. 85. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. restaurants. auto. see climbing rock hunting. 106 Spooner Lake. 112. fishing. 138 rock climbing. 123-125. biking. 165-201 plant life. 156. 88. see events price codes. 42. 87. 76. 179 Searchlight. 88 Shermantown. 113. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. snow sports outfitters. 26-27. touring. 82. 197-199. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 179. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 180. 163. 91. 109 Shoshone people. 185-186. 143 Rachel. restaurants. 153 Sparks. bike. 89. horse. 78. 76. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 129-130. 74 races. 146. 96-97. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 54. 83-84. hiking. Las Vegas territory. 84-85 swimming. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 77. 134. 144. 117. 146-147. special events. fishing. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. restaurants. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. accommodations. 143. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. Las Vegas area. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 54. 187. 145 Stateline: accommodations. see skiing snowmobiling. fishing. 9697. 90 soaring. Benjamin “Bugsy. 17. 9 Sand Mountain. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 90 sport climbing. 17. 195. 89-91 skydiving. 79-80. 169 Pyramid Lake. 106 Siegel. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 185 Ponderosa Ranch.Index Pioche: accommodations. biking. see events Round House Art Gallery. water sports. transportation. see climbing springfish. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 17. outfitters. 173 Index . 98. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. touring. 104. 53-54. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. touring. 142. 167. 13 Price Lakes. fishing. 65 Pony Express territory. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 115. 198. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 92-93. see mines and mining skiing. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. hiking. 17. 78. 145-146 prostitution. 48-49 snowboarding. 176 rodeos. 190. 186-187. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. Pony Express territory. 193. Pioneer territory. 197. 193. 66. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 150-151. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 77-78. 170 rivers. 79. camping. skiing.
fishing. Winnemucca. 117 Toquima Cave. Lake Mead. 34-35. 147-148. 174. 188-189. 95. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 200-201. restaurants. touring. Earth Connections. Arc Dome Wilderness. outfitters. Pioneer territory. 77-78. 55. 66. Hemenway Park. 151 Wilson Canyon. 33. 71-74 Virgin River. 41. Cleve Creek Campground. hiking outfitters. hiking. 177. 139-140 Treasure City. Santa Rosa Mountains. Jack’s Valley Road. 155. 150. 32. 67. 111. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. buses. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 199. 179. restaurants. 185. 191 UFOs. Pioneer territory. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. 163. events. 45. 135-137. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. Reno-Tahoe territory. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 193 Walker Lake. 192. 145-146. restaurants. 110. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. Ruby Mountains. 176 Yerington: accommodations. Wilson Canyon. 191-192. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. see transportation transportation: airports. touring. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. touring. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 127. Mark. 134 Twain. 44-48. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 190-193. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 153-154. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. Ruby Marsh. water sports. 104. 86 Wells: accommodations. 29-30. camping. 146. 168-169. Echo Canyon State Park. hiking. Goshute Mountains. 176 wineries. 157. 71. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 127. 83. 31. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 119-120. 61.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 38. 168 zoos. 164. 139. 62. 62. rental cars. 39 vineyards. 143. High Rock Canyon. 80. camping. camping. events. 35. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. 62. touring. 152-155. 150. horseback riding. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. climbing and hiking. 97. touring. events. 159-160. 20. 163-164. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 167. 79-80. camping. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 85. 196. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. Table Mountain Wilderness. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 29. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. fishing. 176. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. camping. 144. 159. 156-157. 149. outfitters. Las Vegas territory. 155 . 142-143 Wheeler Peak. hiking. Amtrak. outfitters. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 187. 143. restaurants. 172. wildlife and bird watching. 155. 98. 162. 31. 89. 182-183. 26-27. touring. 174 walking. 183-184. 112. Walker Lake. 144. hiking outfitters. 68. see plant life tufas. 109 trees. 73. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 80-81. camping. special events. 151 Wovoka. 160-161. 102. 178. restaurants. Pony Express territory. 25 Topaz Lake. 75. 76. 117. 193. 106 trains. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 30-31.
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