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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. According to author John Hart. Florida. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. horses.” and for good reason. that’s good news.500 and 10. In fact. giant sloths. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. you can have the whole wild. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. as the top tourism destination in the US. bison. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. you’ll know better. These mammoths. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. In fact. For anyone who loves the outdoors. pausing on . however. About 27 million of them. Among the 50 states. half-pound hot dogs. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. which covers most of Nevada. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx.
who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. Jedediah Smith. In the 12th century. By about 500 AD. the first European entered Nevada. In 1776. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. followed in Garces’ footsteps. wetlands and springs. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. The Northern Paiutes. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. shells. however. points.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. Exactly 50 years later. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. hand tools. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. In the south. His party wintered in California. . working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. established trade routes. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. Many prime archeological sites. including southern Nevada. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. fish hooks.
Nevada became a state on Halloween. and headed over the Sierras. the church established the State of Deseret. By 1857. camping at Las Vegas. which helped open the gateway to the West. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. John C. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. Introduction . tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada.History n 3 In the north. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. In 1859. In 1845. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. Fremont. Eight years later the first wagon train. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. dominated by the church. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. In 1830. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. In 1843 and ’44. but abandoned it two years later. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. encountering Pyramid Lake. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. who would later become a war hero. DC. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. covering most of Utah and Nevada. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. the Mormons were the first white residents. was dispatched to map the area. 1864. In 1833. continued to oversee Nevada. with Brigham Young as governor. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. then returned east along the route the next year. The Comstock Lode. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). and. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. In 1849. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. but the Utah Territory government. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. as it came to be called. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. swelling the population well into five figures.
A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp.000 people in 1960. was struck in Virginia City. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. killed two-thirds of them. Warriors under Numaga. Winnemucca. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. In 1873. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. opened in 1950. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. was of a classy. bringing town sites. the Flamingo soon reopened. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. later known as the Nevada Test Site. In 1855. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. the Big Bonanza. upscale Vegas. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. Reno and the surrounding areas. Siegel’s vision. Carson City. Streets were laid out. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. son of Winnemucca. particularly in southern Nevada. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. Then in 1966. In 1860. Meanwhile.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. but was ambushed. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. however. In 1874. then picked up again in the early 1900s. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. the mother of all lodes. Ironically. the first true hotel-casino. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. commerce and industry. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. Howard Hughes sud- . A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. In the teens and ’20s. chief of the Northern Paiutes. then underground tests for 30 more. signed a treaty with the federal government. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. began making money and the boom was on. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. violence escalated.
and Americans have become moths to the flame. The entire West will be watching what transpires. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. By 1970. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. trappers. DC. Winnemucca. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. however. are reaping the windfall. Fallon and Mesquite. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. moving to the region in record numbers. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. places like Elko. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. today there are master-planned communities. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. To many. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. Mom and their 2. find enough water. miners. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. How much is too much. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. But the explosion has not been without fallout. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. . Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. a land dominated by a mobile population.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. This time. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning.
sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. The Colorado River . 13. down another range.063 feet. In fact. The roof of Nevada is 13. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. Near Las Vegas. lakes.000 feet. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. Fremont in 1844. dry. Here.000 feet to nearly 12. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. hills and uplands. the Spring Mountains soar from 2.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. Named by explorer John C. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. On the other side of the state.839foot Matterhorn. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. The notion of Nevada as a flat. gurgle through the northern part of the state. Nevada even has its own 10. then up another range. and so on. across a sagebrush-covered basin. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. down a range. towers over Great Basin National Park. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. Depending on who’s counting.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. Wheeler Peak.000 feet in the space of a few miles. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. Yes. reservoirs and other watery bodies. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. then disappear into their respective “sinks.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. Get the idea? After all. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. with nine ranges topping 11. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. the Carson and the Humboldt. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. In the north.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County.
considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness.000 years ago covered 8. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. In the 1970s. only 65. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. a great inland sea that 50. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. In 1989. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. Lower and drier. most notably Lake Tahoe. the largest alpine lake in North America. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. are the only reliable. natural sources of running water.000-acre Great Basin National Park.500 square miles of western Nevada. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan.000 acres. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . establishing 77. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. the southeastern corner of Nevada. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. it’s an uphill climb all the way. in the remote north near Jarbidge. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. For the greens.
horsebrush and shadescale. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. Apart from aspens.000 and 8. The squat Utah juniper.000 feet. greasewood. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. the soil supports . 14 national recreation areas. is generally found throughout the state between 5. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). Death Valley. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. At elevations above 6. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. The recommendations have been under review for years. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. Still. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata).8 n Introduction federal wilderness. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. with its tiny. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. such as rabbitbrush.000 feet above sea level. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges.
blooms by night here. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. the mountain lion. along with alder. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. bristlecone pine. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. The Joshua tree. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. The king of Great Basin vegetation. At the other extreme. ponderosa pine. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. the official state grass. however. Above the desert floor. up to 5. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. which is actually a type of yucca. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. which make up just 1% of the land. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. creosote bush has an oily. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. hallucinogenic sacred datura. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. or jimson weed. The rare. hedgehog and barrel. In the mountains. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. Washoe pine. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. willow and dogwood. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. mountain hemlock and sugar pine.000 feet. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. western white pine. Black bears.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9.000 years. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . prickly pear. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. lodgepole pine.
The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. greater roadrunner. badger. also live in the Mojave. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. pika. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. seen on Nevada’s license plates. Ironically. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. rainbow. America’s two poisonous spiders. Meanwhile.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. while mule deer are abundant. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. Trout are the favorite of anglers. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. weasel. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. Blacktail jackrabbits. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. golden and Dolly Varden . can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. chuckwalla. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. Gambel’s quail. prairie falcon. The desert bighorn sheep. coyote. with Lahontan cutthroat. kangaroo rats. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. help comes from hunters. beaver. skunk. the black widow and brown recluse. brook. burrowing owl and canyon wren. redtailed hawk. Snakes include several types of rattlers. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. fox. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. In the air over the desert. brown.
This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. Reno-Tahoe Territory. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. A section on Touring follows. covering its history. This section also includes sources for expert information. broken down by specific locales. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. Cowboy Country. like almost every other Nevada visitor. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. on water. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. on land. culture and most attractive features. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. such as visitors bureaus. Along with detailed information on where to go. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. on snow and in the air. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section.
. Up to $50 per day $$ . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . . Hiking. The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . . $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . .12 n Introduction ing chart. . . . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . . Backpacking. . . . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . Trails may be gone. it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. $50 to $100 $$$ . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . . . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . forethought and patience. . . . . . . . . . . Finally. . . so use these symbols only as a general reference. .
the most popular among serious rock climbers. For Class 5 routes.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb.Adventures n 13 Finally. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . the lower numbers (.Climbing. known as the Yosemite Decimal System.Boulder hopping.0 to . so help is usually a long way away. Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . ranging from . As this guide goes to press.14 (and sometimes beyond). it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly.0 to . occasionally using hands Class 4 . Class 2 . .6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. using the hands. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.Easy hiking. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.
these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Assistance can take hours or days. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. n n n n n . Give them descriptions of yourself. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. Be aware of conditions. Don’t travel alone. As with all outdoor activities. then amended by subsequent climbers. Begin hiking early in the day. taking into account personal experience.10. Always take fresh water with you. until all holds disappear at . clothing. legend. dehydration and lightning. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. By their nature. climbing partners. In the arid country of Nevada. Storms are more common in the afternoon. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. If the plan changes. Pack spare everything – food. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. Beyond that. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. climbers enter the realm of myth. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. not hard-and-fast rules. use common sense before you get into trouble.
knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. jack. but a powerful. four-wheel-drive vehicle. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. Arizona. spare belts. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. preferably one with a large gas tank. . tools. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. high-clearance job. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. extra gas. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. Not one of those trendy. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. water and fluids.
is literally uncharted fat-tire country. drink it as needed. AZ. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. in wilderness areas). A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. PO Box 39340. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. minimize talking and eating. left out of popular literature. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. of course. when you left and where you are headed. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. leave a note telling searchers who you are. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. n If water is in limited supply. contact DARES. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. stay on it. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. The rest of Nevada. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. is more popular than ever. Phoenix. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. n If you have water. 85096. however. Mountain biking in Nevada. n If you find a traveled road. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. For more information on desert survival. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. stay put. . Do not ration water.
the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. Fishing. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . n In The Air Scenic Flights. and gigantic Lake Mead. Ballooning. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Skydiving. At these higher elevations. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. there are all types of sky-high adventures. lakes and reservoirs. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Soaring Where there is Vegas. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Many streams. the gem of the Sierras. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. but take extra care. there are tourists. Meanwhile. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. And where there are tourists.
Summer and early fall can be blistering. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. These storms are known to appear with little warning. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. Flashfloods are the predictable result. . Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. Laughlin. Leave the high altitudes as well. If thunderstorms threaten. although they can occur at any time of year. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. on the Colorado River. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. get out of lowlying areas.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. throwing rain. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. but despite the obvious danger. In the Great Basin. temperatures above 110° are common. For those who like to watch.
US Forest Service. Great Basin National Park. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. Ogden. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. . Bureau of Land Management. Intermountain Region. Carson City. 1100 Valley Road. see the listings that accompany each chapter. For information on specific locales. % 702-687-4219. In the mountains. NV 89520. www. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. NV 89710. 324 25th Street. In the north. NV 89703. rainy and occasionally snowy. Nevada Division of Wildlife.travelnevada. Capitol Complex. UT. % 702-785-6500. Reno. % 702-688-1500. Carson City. In southern Nevada. % 702234-7331. Reno. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. Nevada Department of Transportation. 1300 South Curry Street. windy.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter.com. NV 89502. 850 Harvard Way. too. basin winters can be chilly. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. Carson City. % 702-687-4384. % 800-NEVADA-8. Nevada Division of State Parks. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. Baker. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. 1263 South Stewart Street. 84401. NV 89311. % 801-625-5182. NV 89712. Nevada Commission on Tourism.
off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. in plain view of the casinos. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. both prehistoric and otherwise.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. Inside the city limits. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. cheap food.000-foot peak. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. lounge shows – and recently. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. try hiking to an 11. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. closer. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. . the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts.000-year-old petroglyphs.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
95 for adults. Showmanship.95 for seniors and students.95 for adults. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. % 702-363-1921. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. but no less extravagant. call % 702-895-3801. % 702-895-3011. $3. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. Ham Concert Hall. % 702-895-3893. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. The museum is open Monday through Friday.50 for seniors. Yes. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. Admission is $4. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. $4. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. The tax-deductible admission is $6. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. Southeast of the Strip. % 702-798-5595. 10 AM to 5 PM. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). 4505 South Maryland Parkway. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. giant. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. 8 AM to 5 PM. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. Sunday. % 702-895-3381. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. 9 AM to 9 PM. Just off the glittering Strip.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. Seasonal streams. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. is the Liberace Museum. actual cosmopolitan. features work by students. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. faculty and invited artists. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. 1 PM to 5 PM. Dedicated to Mr.
along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. later during summer months. have been unearthed here.) The best time to take the 13-mile. Today there is a restaurant. % 702-875-4141. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. saloon. one-way loop drive is early morning. 8 AM to 11 PM. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. Admission is $4. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. 8 AM to 5 PM. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. wife of a German munitions tycoon. The admission is $5 per vehicle. trail rides and a “real” Western town. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. The park is open daily. The park is open daily. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. The park is open daily. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. 8 AM to sunset. (See below. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. Back on US 95. the road to Mt. With structures dating back to 1864. 5 PM in the winter. % 702-486-5413. The restaurant and bar are open daily. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. 7 AM to dusk. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory .Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. petting zoo. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. under Adventures on Foot. Charleston. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. % 702-875-4191.
but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. % 702-872-7098.) Pitch a tent. (See below. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left.) . may be spotted near water sources during the summer. 17-mile.) After the hike. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. % 702-872-5408. elevation 11. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. Charleston Lodge. see below under On Snow. under Adventures and Camping. (See below. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. completing the Mt. At the northern edge of the reservation. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. In the winter. (See below. under On Foot. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. Nevada’s state animal. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. % 702385-2SKI. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. Bighorn sheep. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. % 702-646-3401. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. the Mt. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. (See below.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. % 702-872-5500.918 feet. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. desolate valley. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. and its 1. Charleston Loop. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. Charleston Hotel. The 1. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station.000 vertical feet of runs. under On Wheels. under Camping.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156.
% 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . Airlines Air 21. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines.
% 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. AA Auto Rentals.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car.
NV 89109. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. % 702-455-7955. Gray Line Tours.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city.50 for adults. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. 444 Hotel Plaza. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. NV 89109. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. 1830 South Boulder Highway. % 800-332-5333. On the north side of Boulder City.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. stopping downtown. 3150 Paradise Road. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. The museum is open daily. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. . Admission is $1. $1 for seniors and children under 16. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. 711 East Desert Inn Road. Call % 800USA-RAIL. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. % 702-294-1888. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. % 702-735-1616. Did it work? Judge for yourself.
The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. Hoover Dam took 5. All of 726 feet high. 89105. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. for information on camping. 89005. swimming.) Be sure to heed the . head back toward Boulder City. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. Children under 10 are free. and 45 feet thick at the top. fishing. (See On Water below. 100 Nevada Highway.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. Hoover also created Lake Mead. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. boating and diving. Its building caused the death of 94 workers.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. % 702-293-8907. The cost is $5 for adults. % 702-293-2034. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. $2. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. 660 thick at the base. 500 South Boulder Highway. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. % 702-565-8591. Phoenix and Los Angeles. Las Vegans.
Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. From the visitor center. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. Just beyond the bay. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. thank you. a public swimming and boating area. % 702-397-2088. explain the geology and forces of erosion. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. The displays in the visitor center. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. . Beyond here. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. nearly five miles off the highway. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. Go straight to reach Henderson. which rests on the Virgin River. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. % 702-293-6180. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. Back on Nevada 167. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort.
constructed his Riverside Casino. Admission is a $1 donation. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. the town was a gold. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. Arizona. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. % 800-46-4584 . % 702-297-1464. % 520-754-4606. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. campground and fishing and swimming spots. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. % 702-297-1682. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. 9 AM to 1 PM. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. a campground and marina.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. Named for a brand of matches. under Adventures. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. bar and bait shop. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. The museum is open Monday through Friday. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. 355 Highway 95. 125°. see below. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. % 520-754-3628. on Lake Mojave. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. (For details on all three. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. Nevada’s record-high temperature. 9 AM to 5 PM.000 visitors a month.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. Saturday. East of Searchlight 14 miles. South of here is camping. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. relives those days. % 520-754-3272. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. with motel. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. % 520-754-3399. in Bullhead City.
% 800-227-5254. % 800-227-5245. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 702-798-6405. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. May is the busiest month. % 800-331-1212 Budget. 1555 South Casino Drive. % 702-876-3380. % 800-736-6247 United Express. In Laughlin. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. host- . % 310-448-1822. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. Special Events February In February. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. as many as 6. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days.
% 800-227-5245. takes place in Vegas. % 702-293-2034. the Parade of Lights. % 702-870-1221. Navaho and Mojave peoples. % 702-293-1611. a confluence of Southern Paiute. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. % 702-8953900. . % 702687-5777. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. % 702-293-4857. blows in. to the campus of UNLV.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. % 702-898-6565. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. floats into Laughlin. take place in Boulder City. % 702-631-7000. to town. % 702-457-5775. Another balloon festival. % 702-386-3926. to the waters of Lake Mead. % 702-452-8066. % 702-457-2797. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-4541212. August In August. the Las Vegas Classic. the International Black Heritage Festival. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. % 702434-0848. % 702-2939256. and the National Finals Rodeo. Later in the month. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. to downtown. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. also takes place in October. October Art in the Park. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. a three-day balloon rally. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. % 800-637-1006. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow.
TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. Red Rock attracts free climbers. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. Graveyard Waltz (5. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. Sheep Trail (5. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. Crimson Chrysalis (5.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley.8).12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. while nearby Cloud Tower (5.9). The area gets only four inches of rain a year.12a). White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. so take extra precautions when adventuring here. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. in fact.11b).11).11). Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot.11).9) has 1. is to mountain bikers. so chalk often stays put for months. Other routes in- . run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs.11d) offers more advanced routes.11+). The Choad Warrior (5. Utah. especially in winter months. At nearby Willow Springs.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. Chicken Eruptus (5. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. Stratocaster (5. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. At the end of a 90-minute approach. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. To the west. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas.
Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. elevation 11. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. About seven miles from the visitor center.000 feet. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. The trail switchbacks time and again. . starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow.000 feet in four miles.6). watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon.000 feet. to savor the 300-mile views.918 feet. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. Following the fork. At the aforementioned fork. The 3.8) and Eagle Dance (5. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. consult the Bible of local climbers. See Outfitters. Chockstone Press. published by the American Alpine Club. & For more information.10 or 5. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. The South Loop Trail. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. ending at a small dam and the spring. Rainbow Buttress (5. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. 17 miles round-trip. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road.12). gaining 3. toward a ridge at 11. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. an easy six-mile round-trip. page 41.
thunderstorms and snow. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. Beginning on a dirt road. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. Never take these altitudes lightly.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers.000 feet into the northeastern sky. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8.000 feet to a saddle. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. contact the US Forest Service. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. the trail climbs 1.4 miles. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. At lower elevations. covering two miles and gaining 1. To the northwest. For trail information and weather and safety updates. gaining 1. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098.000 feet above the desert. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. . Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. Mountain T Ranch. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon.
89137. and park at the end of the road. Las Vegas 89117. PO Box 80875. . Bruce Grubbs. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Las Vegas. which is marked by a post. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. 89180. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. heading for the northernmost outcropping. % 702-434-3388. Sports & Adventure Tours. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. then go northwest to another plateau. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Climb northward up the slope. climb a gully to reach a ridge. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. HCR 33. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. % 702-223-2176. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. % 888-86ROCKY. 89124. Las Vegas. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. % 702-596-2953.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. outlines the easiest route. ascending northwest. Suite 4. % 702-254-5604. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. turn right. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. go 6. Just south of this outcrop. % 702-364-8687.2 miles. Rocky Trails. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. Stay below the northern peaks. Falcon Press Publishing. PO Box 1. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. PO Box 371324.
however. % 702-2567433. 617 Hoover Avenue. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . PO Box 19210. % 702-798-6565. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. % 702387-2457. Desert Outfitting. % 702-875-1978. % 702-458-8870. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. Armed . can arrange a covered wagon trip. 4065 East Patrick Lane. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. % 702-252-7114. Wagons West. At mile post 17.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. % 702-649-6819. Las Vegas. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Hahn’s World of Surplus.6 mile to a dirt road. Cowboy Trail Rides. % 702-254-1143. % 702-383-0838. % 702362-7177. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. Silver State Old West Tours. 89132. Peak Sports. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. Desert Rock Sports.
go to the next intersection. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. a six-mile loop. PO Box 26589. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. A double track soon appears on the right. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. Take this until you reach a double track. % 702-647-5000. Turn right. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. and pump uphill. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. flying downhill and then up to another road. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. scanning for a cairn on the left. Go left here. . But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. For a more challenging excursion. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. Las Vegas.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. 4765 Vegas Drive. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. heading uphill. NV 89126. Head downhill. After beginning another climb. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. make a quick right and head downhill. turn right. zoom downhill to the fork. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. before heading out. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. At the road. Turn right. For a tamer road trip. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. contact the Bureau of Land Management. turn left to another intersection and turn right. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left.
be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. % 702-8978287. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. Ski Chalet. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. the byway forks. Turn left to return to US 15. Las Vegas Bikes USA. Escape the City Streets. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. Downhill Bicycle Tours. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. % 702-876-8687. . 4503 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-642-2453. % 702-646-3401. % 702-252-8077. At about the 10-mile mark. % 702-451-9586. R&R Cycling. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. % 702-596-2953. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. 7934 Cadenza Lane. 16 Cottonwood Drive. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally.
It begins. % 702-380-6969. For details. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. Suite B.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. % 702-796-9355. % 702-646-8800. Las Vegas. % 702-454-5555. maps and more information on backcountry byways. 89101. . Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. Old West Territory Tours. % 888-REELRIO. crystal-clear hotel pool. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. 8 AM to 11 AM. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. of all places. is on the premises. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. 713 East Ogden Street. 3700 Flamingo Road. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. 4765 West Vegas Drive. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. 2810 South Highland Drive. an avid angler for more than 50 years. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. Rebel Adventure Tours.
Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. instruction and gear. .Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. powerboats and cruisers. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. flows into Lake Mead. about three miles across at its widest point. Thomas.to three-days notice is required. Off Nevada 167. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. water skiing. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. Boulder Beach. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. and two. offering professional advice. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. largemouth bass and trout. % 800-34-SCUBA. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). The expert staff is available seven days a week. % 800-2555561. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. Forever Resorts. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. rents houseboats.500-acre ranch in Utah. meals and overnight lodging for $449. jet skiing. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. For details. (See below. visit Divers’ Discount Supply.) Swimming. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. under Boating Outfitters.
is the local fishing and boating hub. Las Vegas. % 702-565-8958. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. 89102. Lake Mead Cruises. . where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. 322 Lake Shore Road. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. particularly near cliffs. Calville Bay Resort. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702-2931190. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. % 702-754-3245. % 800-696-RAFT. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. Near Laughlin. PO Box 100. HCR 30. PO Box 62465. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. % 702-252-7114. The cost is about $65 per person. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. offers trips from January through November. % 702-293-6180. 89124. Las Vegas. PO Box 61235. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. Lake Mojave Farther south. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. 89006. Return transportation is provided by bus. 89006.
% 702-437-9283. 4290 Boulder Highway. % 702565-0696. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. % 702-459-2080. 520-758-6242. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 89028. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. Overton. Bullhead City. 1450 Newberry Drive. PO Box 29279. Sunset Bait & Tackle. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702-5659111. PO Box 29279. Laughlin River Tours. Clearwater Flyfishing. Laughlin. 89040. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 89040. % 702-452-8299. Overton Beach Marina. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. Overton. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. . % 702-433-3263. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. AZ. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 800-228-9825. 89029. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. Fiesta Queen Cruises. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. Tom’s Water Skiing. % 702-388-1022. % 702297-1464. % 702-3944000. % 702-564-5660.
Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. Utah. Jim Goff. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. % 702-5657583. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. complete with guided ground tours and meals. % 702-451-4004. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. % 702-564-1558.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. 1500 Palomino Drive. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. % 702-565-8396. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. Henderson Bill Spellman. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. % 702-385-4321. 810 Circus Circus Drive. With commercial balloon tours. ext.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. . HB Fishing Guide Service. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Arizona and Zion. Karen Jones. 161 East Rancho Drive. citing growing noise problems. % 702-871-1399.J. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. Even more memorable. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. The company claims more than 500. 68 Mallory Road. noon to 9 PM. % 702-434-0848. however. Saturday until midnight. 3800. Hackett Bungy. A jump is $59.
Air Vegas Airlines. 200 Convention Center Drive. PO Box 19629. King Airelines. An all-day lift ticket runs $27.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. NV 89019. 241 East Reno Avenue. % 800-535-4448. 806 Buchanan Street. D&R Balloons. #115-200. % 702-293-1860. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . % 800-446-4584. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. % 800-359-8727. 2705 Airport Drive.ultimateballoonadven. Scenic Airlines. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. % 800-634-6377. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. % 702-221-9199. % 800-216-8330. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. 89109. % 702-385-2SKI. 806 Buchanan Street. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. Heli USA. % 702-877-1010. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Las Vegas. Web site www. Las Vegas. % 702-736-0013. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. % 800-255-7474. Las Vegas Airlines. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. Set at a base elevation of 8. 3275 Rosanna Street. Sundance Helicopters. Skydive Las Vegas. NV 89117. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. Eagle Canyon Airlines. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Jean Airport. Jean. % 800-634-6851. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. 89005. Boulder City. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines.com.
Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. 2395 North Rancho Road. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. 18 East Fremont Street. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. 600 East Fremont Street. if possible. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. HO TE L Many hotels. The place was once part-owned by in- . opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s.000 techies to Sin City. luring 200. % 702-385-5200. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. % 800-272-7426. over 100. it seems. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez.000-room MGM Grand. All they do is take up space.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. After all. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. $-$$$. % 702-646-0008. For more serious snow. are booked solid on weekends. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. even behemoths like the 5. % 702-385-1664. $-$$. But somehow. Above all. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s.000 visitors. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots.
while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. $$-$$$. the young upstarts. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-732-5111. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. Down the street. % 702-894-7111. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. Even by Vegas standards. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. $$$-$$$$. Monte Carlo. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. The Golden Nugget. New York. % 702-731-7110. The Mirage. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. the MGM Grand. % 702-3821600. New York is out there. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the Flamingo. dominate the Strip. South of here. % 702-385-4011. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. $-$$. $$-$$$$. % 702-385-7111. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. The Four Queens. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. New York.037 rooms. is a crowd-pleaser. 1 Main Street. Across the street is the green giant. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. and New York. $-$$. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. 202 East Fremont Street. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. $$-$$$$. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Caesars Palace. If staring at wealth is your thing. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. 128 East Fremont Street. has 1. The faux volcano. % 702-740-NYNY. who built the first casino resort. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. Next door is the Island’s big sister. 3000 Paradise Road. The movie Rainman was shot here. $$-$$$$. across from the Fashion Show Mall. $$$$$. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). % 702-740-NYNY. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. 129 East Fremont Street. % 702-386-2110. way out there. % 702-791-7171. $$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. however.
Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. % 702-872-5500. On the outskirts of Vegas. In the Spring Mountains. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. $-$$$. Bonnie Springs Motel. $-$$.500 rooms. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. three Motel 6s.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. At this book goes to press. has 2. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. .800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. too. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. Charleston Hotel. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter.000 visitors a month and climbing.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. positively sedate with its 5. but don’t count on that for long. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. % 702-262-4555. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. which eliminates Reno.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. the Mt. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111.000.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. contrary to popular belief. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. Charleston Resort. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. % 702-735-1616. TIP Laughlin For the most part. % 702-872-5408. $$-$$$$. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. $$-$$$$. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. set at 7. while Bellagio will boast 3. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. contact the Chamber of Commerce. % 800-634-3988. % 702-875-4400.
classy Hugo’s Cellar. % 702-298-2214. while the Colorado Belle. Café Michelle. $-$$$. 202 Fremont Street. $-$$$. % 702-3807711. 1650 Casino Drive. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. % 702-298-4000. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. % 702-385-4011. Eurasian mélange. Hamada. The Edgewater. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. % 702-891-7374. To really dine UPtown. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. opened in 1990. however. On the Strip. $-$$. 401 South 6th Street. the Flamingo Hilton. 2100 South Casino Drive. The Ramada Express. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . and very expensive. Off the main drags. has 1. % 702-732-5111. At the Flamingo Hilton. An excellent buffet. 2000 South Casino Drive. $$$$. sports a railroad theme. Andiamo. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. % 702-298-4600. 2900 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-4200. 1350 East Flamingo Road. $-$$. % 702-298-5111. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. 2300 South Casino Drive. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. and Gatsby’s. % 702-252-7777. Andre’s. After a few meals at most of these troughs. % 702-298-7111. 3700 West Flamingo Road. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. and Harrah’s.000 rooms. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-298-2453. serves upscale Italian fare. % 702-891-7337. in the Las Vegas Hilton. Emeril’s. $-$$$. % 702-733-3111.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. % 702735-8686. while the Golden Nugget. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. offers 2.500 rooms. 2121 South Casino Drive. both at the MGM Grand. Downtown at the Four Queens. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. contact the Chamber of Commerce. % 702-298-2535. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. % 702-385-5016. Nearby. 1900 South Casino Drive. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. $-$$.
% 702-382-1644. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. 2504 East Fremont. 3900 Paradise Road. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. Phillip’s Supper House. 4455 Paradise Road. serves hip. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. For satisfying American favorites. % 702-384-4470. although the Lodge. Chin’s. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. % 702-794-0700. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. having opened in 1932. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. 308 West Sahara Avenue. Near the end of Nevada 157. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. Chicken is the house specialty. For a Latin taste. % 702-693-5000. Charleston. while moderately pricey. All five campgrounds have piped water. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. The Green Shack. is the oldest restaurant in the city. % 702-298-2242. which. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites.400 feet. Suite Z. For information. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. The elevation here ranges between 7. % 702-873-5222. % 702-363-1921. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. so be prepared for extreme weather. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. in the shadow of Mt. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. % 702-2984600.000 and 8. % 702-383-0007. is the most popular Chinese place in town. Kyle Canyon. . which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. % 702733-8899. seven days a week. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. serves fine steaks and seafood. Fong’s. as the name implies. call % 702-873-8800. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish.
% 520-7544606. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. % 702-397-2088. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. % 520-754-3272.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. On the Virgin River to the north. For information. For information on all five locations. Calville Bay has 80 sites. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. Las Vegas Territory . In Valley of Fire State Park. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. call % 702-646-3401. Across the river from the Strip. north of town on Lake Mojave. there’s Boulder Beach. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. On the north shore. Moving north from Boulder City. To the east of Vegas.
first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. Rose resorts. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. With a surface elevation of more than 7. the largest alpine lake in North America. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. At the heart of this region. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. Reno. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. the city of Reno is the . Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. Heavenly and Mt. Of course.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. just east of the California-Nevada border. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years.000 feet. In the winter. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. The Truckee River. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. Las Vegas. and for good reason.
the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Farther south. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. an ancient. Washoe Lake State Park. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. on the shores of Washoe Lake. Farther east of Carson City. where everyone expects Ben.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. North of Pyramid Lake. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. Just south of Carson City. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. meanwhile. are walks back in time. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. 8. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. The Carson River. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. Today this mirage-come-true. Pyramid Lake. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. The place dates back to 1851. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. About 30 miles north of Reno. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. Fort Churchill. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. which meanders – sometimes wet. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. .
Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough.W. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. No. H. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. and in 1859 C.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. the city continues to grow rapidly. there isn’t a glass pyramid. or at least slow. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. In 1863. for a schedule. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. From here. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. which hosts special events in warmer months. % 800-FOR-RENO. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. In 1852. North Virginia Street. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. Like Vegas. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. From Carson City. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. From Reno. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written.H.
If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. this is it. From a historical point of view. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. .
Animal Ark Nature Center. Great Basin Adventure. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. April through October. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. May Museum and Arboretum. When arms get tired. % 702-784-4528. 10 South Lake Street. houses one of the world’s best collections. To get there. the National Automobile Museum. The staff welcomes visitors daily. % 702-333-9300. The Nevada Historical Society. 1650 North Virginia Street. % 702-334-2600. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. And the Keck Minerals Museum. but call first for hours. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. 1502 North Washington Street. is also located here. turn right. the campus of the University of Nevada. On the north side of the city.) The Wilbur D. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. Reno-Tahoe Territory . a nifty historical theme park. On the suburban south side of Reno. % 702-969-3111. On the northern outskirts of the city. % 702-788-3773. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. % 702784-4812. including black bears and kit foxes. Fleischmann Planetarium. is a well-known. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. houses a theater and telescope. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. % 702-7855961. (See below under On Foot. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. % 702-688-1190. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. About 10 minutes north of the university. 300 North Center Street. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. has been at that location since 1946. boasts three treasures. 1265 Deerlodge Road.
TWA. Dollar.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-331-1212. No Stress Express. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. % 800-367-2277. Canadian Airlines. % 800-218-8777. % 702-328-6400. Reno Air. TriStar Airlines. Hertz. If you don’t have a car. America West Airlines. % 800-325-8007. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-225-2525. Southwest Airlines. Budget. National. . Alaska Airlines. K-T Services. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. % 800-800-4000. Delta Air Lines. Lloyd’s International. % 702-882-3375. % 800-654-3131. % 800-241-6522. % 800-235-9292. Northwest Airlines. United Airlines. % 800-426-7000. % 800-527-0700. % 800-435-9792. Enterprise. % 800-221-1212. Greyhound Lines. Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-231-2222. % 800-CAR-RENT. Airlines Air 21. % 800-221-2000. % 800-736-6247. % 800-453-9417. % 800-359-2472. Thrifty. % 800-654-7037. Avis.
Reno.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. year-round outdoor playgrounds. trees and sky. % 702-329-2936. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. local. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. 405 Marsh Avenue. control erosion and acquire open land. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. a marvelous intermingling of water. provides an interesting mix of adventures. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. is a study in contrast.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. restore forest and watersheds. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. respectively. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. in his journal Roughing It. Fortunately. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . the waters are now finding friends in high places. % 800-FOR-RENO. but the future of the Basin itself. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. rock. All told. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. NV 89505. Reno. 4590 South Virginia Street. At press time. In reality. % 702-686-3030. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. 98 Colony Road. NV 89502. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. In 1861. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
Three miles south of Incline Village. After the buzz of the ranch. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. $5. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. (See below. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. the unique Ponderosa Ranch.50 for kids. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. at 10. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. The park. is well-known to snorkelers. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. The north end of the beach. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Admission is $8. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly.50 for adults. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. is a welcome respite. open May through November. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. under On Foot.) Up the twisting NV 431. with its full slate of running water. % 702-831-0691. called Diver’s Cove. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch.776 feet. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. restrooms and picnic areas. % 702-849-2511. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. along the eastern shoreline. % 702-831-0494. The beaches are open daily. Viewed from the highway. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. stands out amid the pines. But in between them. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking.
Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. The price for such sloth is $10. % 702588-3508. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore.250 feet in five minutes. under Adventures and Accommodations.50 per adult. This is the home port of the Dixie II.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. PO Box 7139. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. then into the broad Washoe Valley. % 702-588-4591. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. South Lake Tahoe. No bottles are allowed on the beaches.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. $6 per child. % 916-583-9048. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. % 702588-3000. % 800-AT-TAHOE. canoeing. (See below. At Tahoe Village. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. PO Box 16299. Booming in the winter (see below. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. horseback riding. Stateline. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. under On Snow). Every summer. also offers excursions. Sailing. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. The day-use fee is $5. under On Snow. May through November. CA. condos. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. 96151. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. restaurants. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite.) For the unmechanized. a nature trail circles the lake. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. offices and shops. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . (See below. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. NV 89449. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. For information. Woodwind Sailing Cruises.
under Adventures. 87 and 98). one mile south of Washoe City. windsurfing. US 395 slides southwest. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. About 15 miles south of Reno. Camping. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. Washoe Lake covers about 3. % 702-687-4319. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . off NV 429. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. About 30 miles south of Reno. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture.000 acres. pages 83. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. the world’s largest silver strike. % 702-849-0201. eventually lost their silver fortune. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. the boom rolled in at full throttle. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. boating. the mansion and all its furnishings. site of Washoe Lake State Park. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. a hunt that lasted 20 years. The park’s centerpiece. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. camping and hiking (see below. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. When the Comstock Lode. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. The original owners. Bowers Mansion County Park. Bowers Mansion. while the blue and the gray fought in the East.” On Halloween in 1864. 1851. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. In November. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. During the wet season. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. Washoe Lake. and on weekends between May and October. was hit a year later in Virginia City. (See below. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake.
that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. 101 North Carson Street. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. It’s so open. excepting state holidays. the Nevada State Library & Archives. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. in fact. % 702687-5030. Unlike most Western capitals. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. Headquartered in nearby Minden. % 702-687-5160. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. Call for schedules and pick-up points. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. the Capitol is open daily. 100 Stewart Street. % 702-687-4810. Admission is $3.” In fact. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. . regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. Located in the Carson City Mint building. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. exhibits of native fauna. which was opened in 1886. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. The Capitol Building & Museum. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. 600 North Carson Street. Open Monday through Friday. yearround. % 702-884-3450. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. The library contains the original state constitution. Just east of the Capitol.
running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored.50. On the suburban south side of Carson City. the Carson City Brewing Company. and Bender House (1874). The Stewart Indian Museum. 5366 Snyder Avenue. % 702-687-6953. Charles-Muller Hotel. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. The office is closed Sundays. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . The staff can provide trail maps. Two blocks north. 448 West King Street. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. % 702-884-2226. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. % 702-887-2174. $2 for kids. The St. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. books and permits for the surrounding area. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. Roughing It. The museum is filled with period furniture. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. % 702-883-1976. The Orion Clemens House. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. % 702-826-2766. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. Admission is $2. 302 South Carson Street. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. Samuel. Admission is $2. 502 North Division Street. % 702-882-1808. was named for its original occupant. 813 North Carson Street. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. 1207 North Carson Street. Admission is $4 for adults. That classic journal. The building now houses a live theater. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The Roberts House Museum. 1536 South Carson Street. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. Bliss Mansion. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. train rides are extra. 2180 South Carson Street.
Genoa Bar. lies Genoa. first opened to tourists in 1862. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. at the foot of the Carson Range. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. California. weight room and tennis courts year-round. NV 89701. 2001 Foothill Road. Up the street. the first permanent white settlement in the state. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. Guests can enjoy the water. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. Carson City. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. where he is buried. opened in 1863. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. to Genoa. now long gone.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. Daily admission is $12. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. Walley’s. Before the school closed in 1980. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. saunas. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. As of presstime. May through October. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. The place saw Nevada’s first house. The roots go back to 1851. 3. % 702-687-7410. The museum is open daily. % 702-782-4325. % 702-782-8155. May through October. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. 1900 South Carson Street.000 students had walked its halls. . Across the street.
000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. % 702-266-3343. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. Gardnerville in 1879. Their riches. of all places. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. Virginia City. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. including Western art and portraiture. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. about eight miles south of Carson City. Housed in the 1915 high school building. % 702-782-3133. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. valleys. Just down US 395. and their spirit built the Silver State. Finally. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. Leaving Carson City. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. In Gardnerville. where it intersects with NV 341. The otherwise barren hills. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. resting precariously . a 1.200acre beauty set at 5. which climbs up a narrow. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. 1440 Highway 395. % 702-782-2555. their sweat. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. circus items. boxing memorabilia. the highway hits Topaz Lake. 1477 Highway 395.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. Minden was founded in 1904. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. About three miles south of Gardnerville. Beyond NV 341. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in.
000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. Admission prices range from donations to $3. Here. leave regularly. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. and within four years. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. % 702847-0975. underground mine tours. Not recommended for claustrophobes. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. The Marshall Mint Museum. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. . The Comstock Lode had been struck. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. Admission is $3.000 lived in Virginia City. % 702-847-0777. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. At the south end of town. The building is open daily. Today. more than 15. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. % 702-847-0757. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. is a looming. May through October. Up C Street. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street.000 a ton in silver. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. Another huge vein was hit in 1873.
for a ride into yesterday. The headstones and gravesites. Reno-Tahoe Territory . including an old jukebox and player pianos. is definitely not for the puritan. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. The memory of Samuel Clemens. Admission is $2. complete with ornate chandeliers. is open daily. The Mark Twain Museum. % 702-847-9394.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. % 702-8470333. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. % 702-847-0525.50. The Way It Was Museum. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. lives on in two buildings. % 702-847-0454. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. Open daily. % 702-847-0766. % 702-8470830. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. windswept plateau. Admission is $2. June through October. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. Its extravagant interior. Finally. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. After she was murdered in 1867. Mark Twain’s Memories. a room in the basement of a saloon. has a more eclectic collection. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. 3. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. % 702847-0275.
After another 20 miles. There is also a developed campground. Today. then exit at NV 445. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. or mustangs.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. % 702-673-1150. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. number about 30. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. wild horses. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. % 702-847-0311. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. The Byway’s terminus. little more than a few walls remain. After about eight miles. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. % 702-577-2345. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. Past the intersection with NV 431. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. appears in Palomino Valley. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. including Odeon Hall. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50.
thus christening the 27-mile-long.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. % 702-476-1156. Nearby. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. They will provide directions and hours of operation. according to artifacts found in local caves. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. Another 25 miles north via paved. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. Camping. Today. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. the road passes Wino. boating and fishing are extra. Fremont. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. A reservation was formalized in 1874. boat ramp. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. the world’s largest playa. since at least 9. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. store and museum. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. site of the ranger station. continues to surround the lake. or dry lake bed. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. of course. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory .182 feet) to the west. campground. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops.000 BC. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. this is the place to do it – unless. Just north of the marina. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. Spreading north and east. nine-mile-wide watering hole. % 702-547-0187. From Nixon. If losing yourself is your goal. Tribe members administer recreation activities.
on 575. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. Besides antelope. even with one. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. tow chain. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. caution and common sense are key to traveling. preparedness is imperative. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. % 503-947-3315. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. spare tire. Again. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. songbirds. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. A shovel. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. birds of prey. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. . Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. Help can be a long way away. about one mile south of NV 140. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. TAKE CARE In this region. and carry enough water. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out.
water. heats up. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. % 702-882-1802. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. Carson Valley Days. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. % 702-782-2444. Reno also . % 702-265-5281. % 702-847-7500. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. is a rip-snortin’ affair. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. Richest Rodeo in the West.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. The Way It Was Rodeo. In Virginia City. % 702-687-7410. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. the Pony Express Re-Ride. Night Curves. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. % 702-847-0311. with food. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. % 702-882-1808. % 702-588-9658. % 702-782-2211. is held in Sparks. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. In Reno.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. bills itself as the “Wildest. % 702-883-1352. % 702-353-2291. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. % 702-829-1955. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. In Carson City. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. % 702-329-3877. % 702-588-6211. % 702-882-1283. In Gardnerville. % 800-FOR-RENO. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. % 702-329-7469. a rolling custom car show.
% 702-827-7603. the Nevada State Fair. the Native American Snow Dance. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. % 702-826-1181. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-847-0311. and the National Championship Air Races. Street Vibrations. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. deconstructionist Woodstock. takes place in Carson City. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. come to Virginia City along with a parade.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. is held in Reno. In Incline Village. % 702-688-5767. a sort of post-modern. . On the Black Rock Desert. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. attracts American Indians from many Western states. % 702-782-9711. gather in Minden. % 702-832-1606. % 702-329-7469. % 702-786-5700. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. % 800-535-3045. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. % 702-882-1565. and the Nevada Day Parade. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. % 702-972-6663. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. the notorious Burning Man Festival. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. % 702-329-1476. In the skies. The Great Italian Festival. % 702-885-6939.
Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. . crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. however. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area.11d) and Slayer (5. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. At the five-mile mark. There are more than 20 routes. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill.11a). at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. including Asylum (5.11c and heavier. Falcon Press Publishing. all 5. Farther south.000 feet. Overhangs present experts with 5.12a opportunities.11a and 5. 1994. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. whips around a peak. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. including Jello Wars (5. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon.14a). The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. so dress appropriately. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. are more chilling than the mountain air. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. There are 10 routes. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. then climbs to a saddle. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. After crossing Galena Creek. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras.
Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. The trail ends at a highway. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. % 702-847-WALK.300 feet in just six miles. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. including great blue herons and birds of prey. elevation 8. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. NV 431. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. The charge for adults is $12. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. This hike is certainly strenuous. . but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. After another mile. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. so call first. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. offers a beautiful willow. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. % 702-6881893. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. as are group tours. Hours are seasonal.260 feet. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. Since the slide. for children $5. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. climbing 3. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size.
Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. is a good overnight point. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. For more information. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. Oakland. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. as are 7. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. Stevens Camp. % 916-279-6101. To reach the trailhead. Yellow Hills East. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. For more information. .Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. For travel information. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. CA 94620. From here. contact the BLM. For road conditions and closures. As this is being written. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. write them at PO Box 20991. The trail.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. Madras. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. great horned owls and other birds of prey. Mahogany Mountain. OR 97441. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast.
to the soaring summit at 9. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. backpackers and photographers. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. Bighorn Outfitting. On the east side of the reservoir. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. 3335 Vista Boulevard. NV 89436. Patagonia Outlet. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. Sparks. but they might also offer their services to hikers. . Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. % 702-851-1924. Outdoor Adventures. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. PO Box 6145. 8550 White Fir Street. terminus of the fairly flat. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. gaining 2. #111. 1135 Terminal Way. % 702-746-6878. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. % 702-626-6916. NV 89511. % 702-832-5231. % 702-623-1500. 20 Daylily Court. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. Reno. Silver State Outfitters. Reno. % 702-322-9559. Nevada Guide Service. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. NV 89502.200 lung-burning feet. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. % 702-333-6795. 490 Kietzke Lane.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. The lakes. jogs through alpine meadows. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. A steep. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago.397 feet. Look for the Knott Creek sign. Incline Village. Denio Junction. NV 89450. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98.
% 702-849-1020. 1201 Highway 395. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. call first for availability and directions. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. % 702-831-5465. and offers picnic rides.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. contact Tin Cup Adventures. 4375 South Carson Street. % 702-8827779. In all four cases. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. % 702-323-5630. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. Zephyr Cove Stables. % 702-3584824. 4339 South Carson Street. also rents horses. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 1941 North Carson Street. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. Near Washoe Lake State Park. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. the trail makes a high-altitude. % 702-849-9651. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . which parallels North Canyon Creek. 155 East Moana Lane. 1675 East 4th Street. Sierra Mountaineer. offers ranch day trips. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. % 702588-5664. % 702782-7011. Vogl Trek USA. After about three miles. % 702-8252855. Sporting Rage. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. Twin City Surplus. Sierra Spirit Ranch. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. In the highlands near Mount Rose. Strictly Scuba & More. % 702-885-7773. % 702-849-0570. % 702884-3453.
secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. Put simply. to Vya. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. Continuing northwest on NV 447. From here. 84 miles back to Gerlach. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. .84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. don’t screw it up. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. depending on point of view. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. To complete the loop. For detailed maps. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. or ends. % 702-831-0494. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. The half-paved. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. north of Pyramid Lake. % 916-279-6101. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road.
hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. % 702827-3277. Excell Skates. 1993. % 702826-0800. % 702883-3210. 89532. winter and spring. % 702-8871333. 89502. Great Basin Bicycles. along with Canada geese in fall. & According to Jeanne L. % 702-825-8258.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. 89502. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. For more information. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. 4135 South Virginia Street. 89509. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. 235 East Plumb Lane. south of Carson City. 89701. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. 1999 South Virginia Street. also known as NV 206. 500 North Carson Street. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. % 702786-5111. Bicycle Warehouse. Falcon Press Publishing. % 702-3226001. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89502. 1200 South Wells Avenue. Bike Brothers. 89502. call % 702-688-1500. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. 3450 Lakeside Drive. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. 1987 North Carson Street. . 89701. % 702-747-1413. Reno Schwinn.
which can take up to seven hours. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. PO Box 3007. 1685 Highway 395 South. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. % 702-8825007. % 702-588-3369. personal water craft and kayaks. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. During spring and early summer.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. Spooner Lake. Contact the US Forest Service. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. Nevada. 89423. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. % 702782-0867. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. red-tailed hawks. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. turkey vultures.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. 625 Fairview Drive. canoes. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. On the Nevada side. 89450. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. via NV 88 and CA 89. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. kingfishers. The trip. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. rents powerboats. coyotes. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. . cutthroat and rainbows. California. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. offers 1. Entrance fee is $3 per car. 89701. six miles south of Gardnerville. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports.
The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. For moving-water anglers. only a mile west of downtown. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. For directions. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. There are two boat ramps. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. thanks to Sierra runoff. and charges a launching fee. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. catfish and trout. For the stalwart anglers. two to three miles up a steep trail. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. A better option might be Ophir Creek. Washoe Lake State Park. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. with campground and restrooms. water levels. are regularly stocked with rainbows. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. planting and licensing information. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. but in wet years. % 702-688-1500. The smaller. For more adventurous angling. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. However. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. % 702-6874319. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. Idlewilde Park. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. although . both on the eastern shore.
used to separate gold and silver from ore. % 702-688-1500.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Camping is primitive. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. In his book. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. boasts a handful of isolated spots. There are two boat ramps on the lake. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. see below. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. the setting here is primative. however. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. . Boats with outboards are permitted. Come prepared. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. Nevada Angler’s Guide. while rainbow. under Outfitters. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. crappie and perch. For more information. a health advisory is still in effect. Rainbow. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. More than 100 years later. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. The reservoir is located on private land. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout.
PO Box 815. % 916573-0753. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. NV 89449. The Gilly. % 916-541-5448. % 916-546-4444. PO Box 6506. Reno.440 vertical feet of runs.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. Don’s Fishing Charters. % 702-358-6113. 490 Kietzke Lane. 155 East Moana Lane. Zephyr Cove. Zephyr Cove. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. Reno Fly Shop. PO Box 10225. Tahoe City. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. PO Box 1909. Tahoe Topliners. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West.260 feet. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. NV 89448. Mount Rose also offers lessons. Sparks. % 702-827-0600. NV 89448. % 702-322-9559. NV 89431. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. Snowboarders are welcome. % 702-588-4916. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. NV 89502. 294 East Moana Lane. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. % 702-825-2855. CA.. NV 89502. Reno. 96145. rentals and a shuttle bus. equally divided among novice. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. intermediate and advanced. Stateline. . With a base elevation of 8. 89502.
the greatest acreage (4. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Lessons. . rentals and a shuttle bus are available. Diamond Peak. 89451. For cross-country fans. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. Snowboarders are welcome. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. Incline Village. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. $8 after 3 PM). there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. rentals. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays.000 feet above sea level. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. and/or snowshoes. Ask about midweek specials and package deals.000 to 9. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. a new gondola and the famous tram. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. NV. % 702-749-5349. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. lesson.840 feet. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). Heavenly.500 feet). day tours and amateur races. lesson. lessons. with the longest vertical drop (3. % 702-831-8361. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. and rental. trail pass) is $34. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. 1210 Ski Way. all-terrain skis. skate skis. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region.800) and the highest top elevation (10. rentals. six surface lifts. not to mention great views of the lake. Heavenly has 18 chairs. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. Lessons. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. This is a monster of a mountain. % 702-7823047. which include a pass.
Excell Skates. Sundance Ski Company. PO Box 19215. of- . 800 Tahoe Boulevard. South Lake Tahoe. % 702-831-2922. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. In Reno. % 702-358-4824. 1200 South Wells Avenue. % 702-588-5935. Mogul Mouse. 89502. CA 96151. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. 89502. 209 Kingsbury. 89451. % 702831-3500. 89502. 89502. 89451. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. 89502. Galena Ski Rentals. 89423. C&J Flight Aviation. % 702786-5111. % 702-3226001. Snowind Sports. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 702-786-7071. 515 East Moana Lane. Stateline House of Ski. 89502. 89502. 2500 East 2nd Street. 140 Vesta Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. % 702-8269096. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702-849-0111. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. 1685 Highway 395 South. Bobo’s Ski Shop. % 702-786-2020.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 235 East Plumb Lane. Sierra Mountaineer. % 702-329-5358. % 702782-0867. % 702-831-3537. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 89451. 89502. % 702-3239463. 321 Sky Way. Serva Ski. 2615 Mill Street. % 916-544-1221.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above.
. % 800-648-3353. $$$$$$$. % 702-784-4944. three. also features condo accommodations. % 800-427-8397. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. on this site since 1944. Harrah’s. . boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. The Douglas County Airport. $$$-$$$$. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. $$$-$$$$. has 740 rooms. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. has two. Lake Tahoe. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. a dance club.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. eight restaurants. poolside service. 398 US 50. High Country Soaring. $$$-$$$$. $$$$. the Sierras and. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. % 800-6483773. Lake Village Vacations. offers 534 rooms. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. $$$-$$$$. Harvey’s Resort. of course. Tahoe Summit Village. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. % 702-588-8571. % 800-635-0066. % 800-99-RIDGE.
first-class. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. % 800- . the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. Among the downtown locations. which serves free continental breakfast. The Zephyr Cove Resort. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. a rustic feel. % 800-225-6382. $$-$$$.$$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. has 33 rooms. % 702-831-0287. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. % 702-588-6644. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. combines great views. lawn games. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. 593 North Dyer Circle. As in Las Vegas. 111 Country Club Drive. $$. $$$-$$$$. The Haus Bavaria B&B. % 800-824-6391. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe.700 rooms on 38 floors. $$. as well as a gym with instructor on site. $$$. A perennial four-star winner. Harrah’s. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. with more than 1. Today. 2 Stateline Road. % 800-687-8733. % 702-8321234. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. 24 Highway 28. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. % 800-731-6222. 407 North Virginia Street. 210 North Center Street. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. $-$$. the Cal-Neva Resort. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. % 800-624-7980. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. $$-$$$. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. % 800-322-7723. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits.
farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. $$$. 3131 South Virginia Street.000 rooms. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. % 800-937-1436. Rates start at $195 per night. % 800-320-0627. % 800-622-1890. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. a heated pool and other amenities. % 800-282-2444. Circus Circus. welcomes bargain hunters. $$. . % 702-825-7134. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. Nearby. $$. % 702-786-4070. 710 West Robinson Street. Freeway convenient. has more than 1. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. $$. the new Peppermill. Charles Hotel. % 702-882-3643. $$-$$$. 3575 South Virginia Street. convention facilities and some impressive suites. 500 North Sierra Street. $$. the Motel 6. $$-$$$. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. The St. boasts nearly 600 rooms. including a barber shop. 1100 Nugget Avenue. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. $$$$. $$. 310 South Carson Street. The Atlantis. which features theme rooms. 600 South Carson Street. 701 East 7th Street. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. % 702-8821887. $. 2707 South Virginia Street. has a heated pool. 345 North Virginia Street. $$. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. % 800-648-5966. is a three-story. two heated pools and a hair salon. % 702-358-1080. an owner-built. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. % 800-648-1177. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. % 800-723-6500.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. most notably the Days Inn. It has more than 1. $$. $$$. $$. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. % 800-723-6500.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. $. Away from downtown. the Eldorado. % 702-827-0255. 1901 South Virginia. which overlooks the state government center. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. and Vagabond Inn. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. Motel 6. free airport shuttle and skier rates.
180 Nixon Street. 1540 Main Street. 1979 US 395. 11 with private baths. 1435 US 395. 800 North Carson. some with kitchenettes. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. % 702-847-0111. % 702-557-2220. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. two with private baths. 907 South Carson.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. $$. $$. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. % 702-782-7644. $$$. % 702-8825535. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. $. It has four rooms. $$$. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. for weary wanderers. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. $$. was built in the late 1800s. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. $-$$. $$. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. 8 South F Street. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. Pratt. 1643 US 395. 300 Main Street. the inn was built in 1872 by A. % 702-782-5697. including the small Genoa House Inn. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. The Chollar Mansion. 565 South D Street.C. and Pioneer. $$-$$$. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. 1431 Ezell Street. is the center of the action. % 702-882-3046. $$$. and a casino. The motel has 40 rooms. % 702-782-7075. % 702-782-9711. 2001 Foothill Road. % 702-782-8720. % 800-321-6983. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. has five rooms. $-$$. % 702-847-0521. It has four rooms. #800-628-7831. . 1627 US 395. The Crooked House. There are 13 rooms. $-$$. $-$$. generic motels abound in Carson City. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. % 800-962-0732. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. % 702-847-9777. $$-$$$. 2332 Main Street.
seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. also run the gamut with delis. 4201 West 4th Street. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. % 702-941-0371. The French cuisine is made with fresh. 210 North Sierra Street. Reservations are recommended. try the Glory Hole. Open for dinner only. the lake’s first casino. seasonal ingredients. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. no TVs and. 1200 Razorback Road. % 702-323-3200. The Chart House. The place has 14 rooms. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Steak. . the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. Famous Murphys. along with Caesars Tahoe. % 702-827-4111. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. Open for dinner only. $. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. is a rousing pub with good food. The restaurant also does its own baking. coffee shops. % 702-588-6611. 328 Kingsbury Grade. The hotels. the menu changes every two months. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. % 702-786-1323. 3127 South Virginia Street. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. 3065 West 4th Street. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. % 702-825-1250. a casino. Ichiban. of course. serves fresh Japanese steak. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. % 702-323-5550. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. % 702-588-6276. ethnic food and full buffets. including a seafood and oyster bar. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. % 702-588-2411.
El Charro Avitia. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. The Carson Nugget Steak House. 1540 Main Street. Two blocks away. % 702-882-3353. one of the top Italian eateries in country. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. % 702786-5700. seafood and steak. % 702882-1626. % 702-689-7226. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. . % 702-847-0111. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. 2707 South Virginia Street. this is the place. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. 1112 North Carson Street. 1301 North Carson Street. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. Boasting a large Italian menu. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. % 702-348-9297. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. % 702-785-7000. dinner only on weekends. 1020 North Carson Street. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. 507 North Carson Street. 4389 South Carson Street. % 702-8262121. and Peppermill. There is also an extensive wine list. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. Silvana’s. % 702-883-6261. 255 North Sierra Street. Heidi’s. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. serves fine French cuisine. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. 402 East William Street. the Eldorado. % 702-8835100. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. % 702-356-3300. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. 234 North Virginia. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. Adele’s. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. South of the city center and south of the border. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. % 702-882-0486. % 702-882-4556.
Nightly fees are $6. for more information. % 702-789-2000. the campground has 54 sites and running water. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. There are 44 campsites here. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. 735 Mill Street. nine for RVs. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. which straddles the Nevada-California border. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. California.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. The nightly fee is $5. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. . Showers are available. % 916-279-6101. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. Big Spring Reservoir. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. % 702-323-3381. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. some for RVs and some for tents. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. Set at 8. % 702-8822766. % 702-687-4319. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. Open May through October. Call the Cedarville. For information and fees. the campground has 24 sites. Open June through September. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. Rates run about $18 per night. The overnight fee is $7. 2500 East 2nd Street. Reno RV Park.900 feet. The overnight rate is $12. call % 702266-3343. including Virgin Valley. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. Simply wonderful. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. Mount Rose has running water. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. 1300 West 2nd Street. On the Nevada side. lies south of the river. % 702-322-2281. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. % 916-573-2600. office of the BLM.
.” Riders. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. California. On October 24. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Beginning in April 1860. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. tore between stations. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. Want ads called for “Young. Incredibly..Pony Express Territory vada. 1861. Bible and mail pouch. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. skinny. and Sacramento. willing to risk death daily. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Joseph. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. the gutsy riders. carrying only a pistol. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. pausing only long enough to change mounts. Missouri. wiry fellows not over eighteen. Orphans preferred. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail.
Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. this area has plenty to offer. Just a few hours from Ely. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. Near the town of Ely. spans some of the most beautiful.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. glacier-carved peaks. In the higher mountains. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. . Great Basin. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. Ranging in elevation from 3. But if you consider solitude. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. ridges and valleys in the country. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. so be prepared for anything. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. hiking and wildlife viewing.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. there is excellent skiing.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. As might be expected. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
The Churchill County Museum & Archives. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. January through March. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. With 10. 1050 South Maine Street. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. Sunday.000 people. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. (See On Water. % 702-867-3500. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. Admission is free. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. .000 photographic images. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. In recent years. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. 1000 Auction Road. In peak years. April through December. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. green-winged teals. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. canvasbacks. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. White-faced ibis. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. below.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. % 702-423-5128. snowy plovers. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. Over 14. % 702-423-3677.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. covers 77.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon.000 years. pelicans.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. peregrine falcons. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge.
Every spring. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. Just off the highway are two short trails. Just east of town. is the artist in residence here. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. More than 21. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. which features the famous Blue Angels. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. and “management” means hunting.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Pony Express Territory .000 years ago. At press time. Over 8. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Adam Fortunate Eagle. The hunting season usually opens in October. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. On the south end of town. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School.
geology and history of the region. Fallon. Fallon. . n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. roars and moans. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. but strenuous. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. If the roar of engines ever dies down. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. NV 89406.” meaning sword. % 702-423-4556. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild.” Booms. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. NV 89406. the low. dark. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). fauna. wild West. % 702-423-2544.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. 379 West William Avenue. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. about three miles past West Gate. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. Near the station. A hike to the precipice is a safe. volcanic cliffs around it. listen for the mountain’s “singing. regularly emanate from the dune. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. 100 Campus Way. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high.
Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. 13 miles east of Austin. Austin is a quiet. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Austin. As always. Six miles later. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. % 702-964-2200. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. then to paved NV 376. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour.577 feet. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. Round Mountain. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest.350 feet. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. However the rush began. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. the boom was followed by the bust.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. % 702-964-2145. Spencer’s Hot Springs. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. PO Box 1149. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. PO Box 212. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). past Bob Scott campground. NV 89045. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. then climbs again to Austin. population about 300. Three miles later. NV 89310.
which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. At mile 55. The limestone cavern. There is also a free campground here. are open to visitors just off the road. is recommended for serious. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. experienced cavers only. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides.000 years ago.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. The hill is located on private land. Just across Northumberland Pass (7.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. near Pete’s Summit. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. A long. Battle Mountain. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. % 702635-4000. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. NV 89310. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce.500 years ago. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. PO Box 212. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. A series of safe.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. At mile 30. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. NV 89820. PO Box 1420. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. . Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. After merging with Lower Mine Road. % 702-964-2200. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. Austin. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50.
Gold mines. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. Still.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. are still a major facet of the local economy. but most definitely worth a gander. however. By 1878. The state’s No. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . Eureka’s population of 9. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. % 702-237-5484. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. The building. But by 1890 the rush was over. Not until five years later. Eureka. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. and the Jackson House Hotel. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. NV 89316. dates from 1877. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. Eureka. PO Box 14. The shell of the building. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. some a little less gloriously than others. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. found in the valleys around Eurkea. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. completed in 1880 and still in use today.
n Ely Back on US 50. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. NV 89316. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. Eureka. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. Entering town at night . because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. PO Box 14. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. US 50 rolls across basin and range. this mini-city (population about 5. A few miles farther south. % 702-237-5484.500 residents. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. Situated at 9.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. Pronounced EE-lee. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike.000 feet. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. Monday through Friday and by appointment. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. n Ghost Towns From Eureka.
PO Box 150040.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. % 702-728-4467. Return to US 50. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. The White Pine Public Museum. as well as an original. East Ely. Admission is free. clothing. depart on selected dates from May through September.50 per person. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. former First Lady Pat Nixon. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument.300 feet. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. Since they went cold in the 1880s. Call for exact dates and times. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. % 702-2894710. running water. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. The museum. Pony Express Territory . furniture. engine house. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. a bicycle. like many museums in this territory. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. Tours of the railroad yard. accessories. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. showers and hiking trails. located on East 11th Street. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. On the other side of town. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. NV 89301. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. % 702-289-2085. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. depot. 2000 Aultman Street. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. Prices start at $10 per person. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. There is primitive camping here.
this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. % 800496-9350. Designated a national park in October. % 702-234-7331. sometimes by the hundreds. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. 1986. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. % 702-289-4865. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. For more information. Bristlecone Convention Center. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. % 702-289-8877. Most of the 77. From Baker. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. Only about 70. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. In 1922. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. While hikers are welcome. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. 150 6th Street. In the 1950s a . which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. untamed backcountry. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. That leads quickly to Baker.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. contact the Ely office of the BLM. a proposal to create a 6. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads.000 people a year visit the park. 636 Aultman Street.
but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. (See On Foot and Camping. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. columns. stalagmites. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. draperies. Tours of the cavern. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13.067-foot Wheeler Peak. limited to 30 people at a time. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. While celebrating a victory. The high-altitude campgrounds. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. % 702-234-7331. NV 89311-9702. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. in 1986. Call ahead for conditions. the park’s crown jewel. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. ski resorts and tramways. then head straight out of the park. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. $3 for juniors. Congress settled on 77. are held every day except Thanksgiving. Baker. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries.086-acre Great Basin National Park. Christmas and New Year’s Day. Finally. are hard to beat.000 to 44.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. too. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. or speleotherms: stalactites.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. among others. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. Prices are $4 for adults. flowstone and soda straws. . which is actually one huge cavern. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. below. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves.000. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park.
From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. To reach Garnet Hill. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. Millet Ranch. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. The garnets found here. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. Arc Dome.000 feet. or use paved NV 376. Tierney Creek. % 702-9642671. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. Carvers NW. a few of which are even of gem quality. which has picnic tables and shade trees. south into Arc Dome Wilderness.600 feet. Set at 7. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. Bakeoven Creek.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. are spessartite. . South Toiyabe Peak. Drive three miles to the recreation area. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. to reach the village of Kingston. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area.
head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. leave the high country immediately. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. headache. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. 1. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. Baker. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. a unique. If threatening clouds approach. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. is marked with trailhead signs. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table.000 feet along rocky. This is some serious highcountry hiking. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. with many trails climbing above 10.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. as well as all the water you will need. which at 12. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. From the trailhead/parking area.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. nausea. The trail ends just before the summit. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. After about 10 miles of hiking. which may be impassable when wet. and Mount Moriah. windswept paths. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park.000-acre. % 702-289-3031 for more information.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. which heads west toward the peak. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. The wilderness. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. Pony Express Territory . set aside in 1989. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear.
or cirque. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. the six-mile .114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. Continue straight. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. At 13.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. In 1878. then turn left again. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. The bowl.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. Finally. the last 1. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. the views of the 8. To reach the summit. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. Use extreme caution here. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. If it is safe to venture to the peak.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. This is another depression etched by a glacier. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail.063 feet. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. then descends to Teresa Lake. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail.
The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. In good weather. Kious Spring. Turn left. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. To continue the loop hike. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. once the site of some mining activity. Around mile six. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove.926-foot Pyramid Peak. After about three miles.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4.700 feet in the first seven miles. Wheeler Peak. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. Return the way you came. just off to the east. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. subalpine conditions. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. . set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. this is a nice overnight stop. Lehman Caves. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh.950 years. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. To return to the trailhead. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak.
% 702-423-5185. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. Flying M Stables. % 702-238-5232.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. Sportsworld. J & P Auto Parts. White River Guide Service. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. % 800-874-0903. 89301. 89301. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. % 702-289-8886. % 702235-7439. Burdick Guide Service. 189 Aultman Street. % 702-4239215. 89406. 89301. HCR 33. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. 1050 Aultman Street. a quartermile. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. PO Box 34005. 5030 Reno Highway. 89301. As of presstime. % 702-867-3388. 89406. HC 34. 89301. % 702-2893063. . 89883. Box 33570. 89406. % 702423-9215. 3125 Stark Lane. PO Box 2560. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. 1707 Rice Road. 89406. Silver State Stables. 2005 Harrigan Road. % 702-289-4468. % 702-289-4208. 701 Avenue F. % 702-664-2977. sells camping and outdoor equipment. Great Basin Inn. 89406. 89301. Daum. 203 Heritage Drive. % 702-423-6171. is worth a gander. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. Wildlife West Guide Service. Wendover George A.
A 10-mile loop with a 1. For more information.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. The route runs north out of the canyon. one would think tiny Austin. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. Dune-buggy.000 per year. % 702-964-2671. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. Austin. NV 89310. For more information. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. % 702-885-6000. population 300. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. brochures and campgrounds. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. PO Box 504. contact the BLM. NV 89310. PO Box 130. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. the sixstory. Austin. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles.
The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. 1500 Aultman Street. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. % 702-234-7331. past the US Forest Service station. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. . and bring plenty of water. sells and services bicycles. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. % 702-289-8886. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. for maps. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. From the pavement. directions and road conditions. when the weather is dry. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld.
Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. along with sportfishing. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. The trout limit is 10.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. In 1997. White crappie can be hooked March through May. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Lahontan State Recreation Area. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. Boat ramps are located in two spots. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. % 702-688-1500. Pony Express Territory . surrounds a 10. where worms and corn are said to work best.
On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. is one of the biggest places in town. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. 1050 Aultman Street. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. 855 West Williams Avenue. and one of the best bargains. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. 1500 Aultman Street. % 702-289-3063. % 702-289-4468.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. % 702-289-8886. Great Basin Inn. J & P Auto Parts. which feeds the lake. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. % 702-423-6031. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. $-$$. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. 701 Avenue F. % 702-289-4865. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. The Upper Reese River.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. A few chain HO TE L . via paved NV 376 and a three. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness.
the Lincoln Motel. has 17 rooms. with 10 rooms. Call for information. % 702-423-4254. Smith Creek Ranch. % 702-237-5334. which has 17 rooms. the Budget Inn. 115 Northwest Main Street. including the Comfort Inn. % 702-423-2194. % 702-423-4648. also called Main Street here. $-$$. $. For a real blast from the past. It is open seasonally. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. and. 70 East Williams Avenue. The red brick structure was built in 1877. 1705 South Taylor Street.800 acres. called Main Street as it runs through town. $$$. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. % 702-9642605. The Eureka Motel. which is north-south running US 95. the 22-room Value Inn. The Nevada Belle Motel. As you drive in from the west. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. meals and overnight accommodations. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. instruction. % 702-964-2471. a heated pool and interior corridors. % 702-423-5554. $. % 702-423-5151. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. % 702-237-5247. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. is a modern. % 702-237-5577. the Pony Express House. On the east end of town. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . 180 West Williams Avenue. % 702-423-2277. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. $$$. $-$$. most of which are on US 50. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. % 702-964-2698. while on the southern edge of town. a heated pool and a small casino. $. but after a long day on the road. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. $-$$. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. $$. $-$$. combines a B&B with a private. has 27 rooms. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. 1830 West Williams Avenue. The ranch. basic equipment. who really cares. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. $-$$. The Sundown Lodge. rates and directions. try Jackson House B&B. which has 49 rooms. which has 30 rooms. 25 North Taylor Street. % 702-964-2306. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. $$. $-$$. has 21 rooms.
Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). % 702-289-4747. For a more genteel stay. % 702-289-4884. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. 1101 Aultman Street. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. 701 Avenue I. the building was vacant 10 years later. Ely With a population of more than 5. $-$$. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. $-$$. $-$$. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. is another living antique. For a more modern taste. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. and its twin. has 21 rooms. $$. % 702-289-8838. 770 Avenue O. which has 19 rooms. % 702-289-6665. 930 Aultman Street. % 702-2891234. After years of dormancy. $-$$. two-story hotel. $-$$$. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. $$-$$$. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. % 702289-6671. The Bristlecone Motel. There are also private balconies. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. $. the inn has five rooms with private baths. % 702-289-8687. 5th . 220 East 11th Street. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. 501 Aultman Street. located on the south side of town off US 93. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store.300. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. $-$$. % 702-237-9988. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. $. 1501 Avenue F. 500 High Street. 700 Avenue I. which has 61 rooms. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. % 702-289-8900. % 702-289-4497. The inn is open June through September.
Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. $. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. and the White Pine Motel. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. even fast food joints are nonexistent. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. % 702-237-7302. It is open June through August.. 1301 Aultman Street. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. NV 89311. 150 4th Street. 24hour laundromat and showers. % 702234-7300. offers tipis and a campground. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. % 702-234-7323.er. guided tours and off-road adventures. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. % 702-234-7267. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. The Silverjack Motel. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. % 702-289-3800. the Border Inn. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. and two others outside of Baker. $. Baker. PO Box 90. Behind the Silverjack. along with horseback riding. $. % 702-234-7343. so call ahead for operating hours. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. what with its 29 rooms. $-$$. is a favorite spot for travelers. % 702-289-4411. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. and Whispering Elms RV Park. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. % 702-289-3033. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. with its seven rooms. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. $-$$. South of Baker at the national park boundary. $. % 702234-7323. % 702-234-7272. . is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. which has a laundromat and showers. Utah..
125 South Maine Street. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. Toiyabe Café. Tony’s. % 702-867-3750. Smack in the center of town. 1560 West Williams Avenue. % 702-964-2493. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. 960 Auction Road. Kentucky Fried Chicken. 875 West Williams Avenue. Denny’s. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. serves up steaks. The Depot Casino. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. 4150 Reno Highway. % 702-423-2117. try Mary’s Owl . % 702-423-5588. is Fallon’s only coffee house. Open for breakfast. 1955 McClean Road. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. The Fallon Nugget Casino. % 702-423-3111. including the few eateries. Carol’s Country Kitchen. have been serving great burgers. Stockman’s Casino. is known throughout Fallon. % 702-423-6166. is also open for three squares a day. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. % 702-423-3233. If your mind is on pizza. % 702423-6828. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. specializing in omelets and steaks.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. Café Nations. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. % 702-867-2769. including McDonald’s. however. In 1929 and ’30. lunch and dinner. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. % 702-964-2220. In the 1920s and ‘30s. 1350 West Williams Avenue. 70 South Maine Street. The International Café and Bar. % 702-964-9905. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. The Mexican food at La Cocina. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. is home to The Diner.
562 Aultman Street. 21. % 702-237-5280. Fallon RV Park.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. % 702-2289-3765. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. is also open 24 hours a day. where the restaurants are also along US 50. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. % 702-237-5477. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. The Owl Club. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. 2160 Aultman Street. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . and Hubtotel RV Park. West of Fallon. The Busy Bee Drive-In. and is attached to a bar. % 702-867-3636. and Orient Express. which features prime rib. % 702-964-2412. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. has 64 sites. % 702-867-2332. % 702-964-2627. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. % 702-289-6665. The Fireside Inn. % 702-289-3033. % 702-289-4888. however. might as well top it off in Eureka. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. % 702-289-3313. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. % 702-289-3905. 701 Avenue I. 1455 Aultman Street. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. top sirloin steak and eggs. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. serves a fine steak sandwich. Believe it or not. offers 45 sites. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. 4800 Reno Highway. 5787 Reno Highway. % 702-237-5356. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. serving diner-style grub. % 702-688-1500. Lahontan State Recreation Area. 501 Aultman Street. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. % 702-289-4884. 211 5th Street. located three miles north of town on US 93. Jerry Restaurant No.
there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. North of Ely. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. PO Box 130. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. both off of US 50. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. Just east of town. % 702-964-1011. There are 10 sites here . as there are no services near the water. picnic tables and vault toilets. 24 miles east of Austin.800 feet. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. NV 89310. which are open June through September with running water. None have running water. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. then go a mile to County Road 1059. About nine miles south of Big Creek. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. No running water or firewood. Austin RV Park. PO Box 1420. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. After a few miles. For information. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. There is drinking water here. Open April to October. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. To reach Bird Creek campground. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies.500 feet. Only six miles southwest of Ely.300 feet. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). For more information and road conditions. There are 15 sites. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. NV 89820.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. Just east of the Eureka town limits. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. % 702-964-2671. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. Bob Scott Campground. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. where there are eight campsites set at 7. along with campfire rings. grills. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. Battle Mountain. Austin. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. set at 7. % 702-635-4000. Finally.
Ely. this is the only park campground open all year. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. In Great Basin National Park. % 702-289-4865. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. on US 93. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. The BLM. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Contact the visitors center. To reach the campground from US 50.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water.752 feet. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. % 702-2893303. 89301. Pony Express Territory . All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September.530 feet. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435.886 feet. In the center of the park. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. has 100 sites. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. There are 30 sites here at 7. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station.250 feet). One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. For more information. % 702-234-7331. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. % 702-2893031. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. On the northern edge of the park. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. Set at 7. NV. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. depending on weather conditions. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. 350 8th Street. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. % 702-2893413. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road.300 feet. and there are no showers. Upper Lehman. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. and Valley View RV Park.
five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. He found one living specimen dating back 4. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. humans. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. the state animal. reaching as high as 11. started pulling core samples. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. not many of them stayed around very long. Named Methuselah. Desert bighorn sheep. The short. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine.700 years. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. Throughout history. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. who described them as “lowly old giants.000 feet and more. Edmund Schulman. however. the oldest living thing on earth.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here.000-year-old duck decoys. Today in Cowboy Country. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. call many parts of this high country home. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. . sagebrushcovered sea.
There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. towns like Winnemucca. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. Elko headed the list of the 100 . There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. Carry good maps and a compass. streams. In 1993. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands.000 years. bikers and equestrians. In fact. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. Summers are generally hot and dry. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. lakes and reservoirs.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. bass and other gamefish. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. Winter brings rain and snow. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. and know how to use them. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. The weather here can be as wild as the land.
and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. The famous trail. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. paralleled the Humboldt River. parts of which are still visible today. followed by the doomed Donner Party. but thanks to new mining technology. both held in Elko. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. took to sheepherding. But since the early days. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. This is a place where pick-up trucks. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. but everyday tools. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. after the riches ran out. others moved on. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. including one named Samuel Clemens. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. combed Cowboy Country. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. lunch and dinner. Cowboy Country . In late 1860s. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world.
300. Reid was the first white person to see the cave.000-square-mile Pershing County. which the company named after him. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. Five miles southwest of the shelter. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. which crosses the Humboldt River. The seat of 6. located on the southern outskirts of town. which measures . a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. about 17 miles from Lovelock. After eight miles. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. arrived here in 1866. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. George Lovelock. With a population of just over 2. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. turn left on Derby Road. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert.
He may have been led there by Natchez. in 1886 or 1887. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. dark. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. Admission is free. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. many of which were donated by locals. PO Box 821. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. NV 89419. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. the first ever in the Great Basin. One of only two round courthouses in the country. which also features the community pool. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. are large. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. Mummified remains were found here. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. Tufas. % 702-273-2713. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. Scientific excavations. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. clothing and household items. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. picnicperfect park. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. Lovelock. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet.
Lovelock. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. where stone . go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right.134 n Cowboy Country vada. NV 89419. % 702-538-7321. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. For details. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. below) and wellmanicured homes. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. as well as opportunities for boating. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. PO Box 821. which seems close enough to touch. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. About 16 families reside in Unionville. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. fishing and camping. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. Open all year. % 702-273-2713. is centered on this man-made lake. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. After later taking the name Mark Twain. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. see below under Adventures.
a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. a former resident. % 702-623-2912. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. From here it’s five miles to the town. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. the Humboldt Museum complex. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. % 702/623-2225. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. Edna Purviance. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. Curator . The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). They later brought their families. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. dancing. Today their descendants. except for lunch. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. Admission is free. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. To reach Unionville from I-80. a good spot for a picnic. Winnemucca (population 7.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon.
The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. was erected in 1863.000. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. The former First National Bank. Winnemucca. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. There is a gift shop next door. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. 95 Bridge Street. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. nabbing $32. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. 602 Bridge Street. Winnemucca. NV 89445. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. one of two in the country. % 702-623-5025. NV 89445.000 in gold. Another gem is the Shone House. Winnemucca. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 352 Bridge Street. Winnemucca. % 800-962-2638. but all are easily drivable. NV 89445. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. US Forest Service. 705 East Fourth Street. NV 89445. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. . % 702623-5025. % 702-623-1500. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. The tour visits 30 sites. along with a thank you note. St. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Like something out of old Mexico. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. The thieves escaped to Texas.
When the ore turned out to be lackluster. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. which serves as a meeting place and information center. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. A 20th-century ghost town. all but 250 people left. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. Jungo. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Midas is two miles from this junction. once a busy town of more than 2. The Rochester Mining District. which . Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. established Scottsdale in 1866. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. after fending off resident Paiutes.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. the town was an empty shell. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. Three years later the village became Paradise City. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. To reach the remains of the camp. Today about 100 people live in town. along with the local watering hole. The camp was abandoned by 1869. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. and 2. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca.300 people had moved by 1913.
however. 1515 Idaho Street. offers a bar. verdant marshes. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. Paradise Saloon. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. % 702-7383418. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. % 702-623-5025. Just south of town. obtain maps. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. biking.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. The local mining. deli and soda fountain. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. (See Adventures. A state park. this is Cowboy Country. this town of about 25. beautiful high-country lake. % 702-578-3381. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. After all. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters.) In town.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. located on the extreme east end of town. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. is easy to locate. In Winnemucca. (See Adventures and Camping. fishing and camping. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. It’s the white.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. Basque . when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. sometimes an angler’s paradise. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. Gas is also available.
The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. % 702-738-5131. El Aero Services. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. % 702-738-7508. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). 501 Railroad Street. % 702-738-7123.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. 1 PM to 5 PM. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. Displays of local wildlife. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. For airport information. also known as J. % 800-453-9417. Harris Field. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. geology and industry abound. % 800-654-3131. Deweys Rent-A-Car. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. Hertz Rent-A-Car. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky.Touring n 139 immigrants. along with various other events throughout the year. geography. 10 AM to 5 PM. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon.C. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. . 9 AM to 5 PM. % 800-8727245. The Western Folklife Center. and Sunday. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. and a charter airline. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. Admission is free. % 800-331-1212. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car.
Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. % 800-248-ELKO. 700 Moren Way. 3900 East Idaho Street. Elko. From Elko. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. Elko Chamber of Commerce. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. located southeast of Elko. passing Powerhouse picnic area.387 feet at Ruby Dome. with elevations ranging up to 11. Humboldt National Forest. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. 89803. 89801. (See Adventures and Camping. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. 89801. Elko. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. Alpine vistas. % 702-753-0200. From town. 90. 976 Mountain City Highway. Elko. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. At the . The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state.800 feet). 89801. % 702-738-7135. including the remote. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. fishing and camping in the entire West. 1601 Idaho Street. % 702-738-5171. Elko.
Touring n 141 crest. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. Even when they are open. Ruby Dome. Yes. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. U-shaped valley. The road leads east 21 miles. the road meets the Jarbidge River. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. . The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. From the south. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. a high clearance vehicle is required. More than 1. and there’s no argument here. For access to both. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. As small and remote as Jarbidge is.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. so drive cautiously. From Wells. then north another 25 miles. For details on all of this. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. (See On Foot. Nevada. down into Jarbidge Canyon. see below. is visible in the west. check with the owners of the Trading Post. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. rising 11. Idaho. and by the 1930s the rush was over. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. turns south.500 people flooded into the region. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. this town sticks to Mountain Time. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. is spectacular.387 feet. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. or call them at % 702-488-2315.
the 44. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . of course. try Stuart’s Foodtown. the presence of casinos. The range is also home to Angel Lake.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. exit at No. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. Before entering town. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells.) On the Utah side of the state line. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. This is also the junction of US 93. however. the main artery running up the east side of the state. reached easily via a paved highway. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. Cool. % 801-665-7721. which rises to 11.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. % 702-752-3215. n Wendover From Wells. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. the main difference between the two sides being. both available at the Trading Post. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. stare out across the famous.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. Sunday until 9 PM. The town was abandoned in 1942. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. n Wells From Elko. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. head east from the border. To access the flats. 4 and go five miles northeast. and the 37. For ghost town fans. 647 Humboldt Avenue.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. Bonneville Speedway Museum.
falcons and ospreys are common. February Wells holds its annual chariot races.600 feet in two miles. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. which attracts upwards of 10. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. Eagles. which gains 1. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. % 702-664-3414. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. is held in late March or early April. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. The night before the events. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. the historic World War II B-29s. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. a . first at the Miner’s Rodeo. June Both hay.000 buckaroos. hawks.
Near Wendover. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. a parade and feats of strength. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. Phone numbers can be found above.. Unless otherwise indicated. call % 702-635-8245. July In July. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. featuring food. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. There is a traditional dance contest. The town of McDermitt. hear the music and eat the food. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. when tanks. under Touring. The largest Basque get-together in the US. In Wendover.or 23-mile loop. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. dancing. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. . six. For details. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports.
climbing more than 4. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. including the 31. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. 1994. Falcon Press Publishing. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. leads due east toward the highest point. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8.834 feet). The first half of the moderately strenous. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. the road. Pronghorn antelope. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. which . The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. Chartered in 1989. Star Peak. From here. The trailhead appears after three miles. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. The trail is punishing. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. passable by high-clearance vehicles. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. crossing Buffalo Creek. Star Peak (elevation 9. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. Granite Peak (elevation 9. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest.200 feet. From the top. Aspen. To reach the trailhead. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas.000 feet in four miles. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. To reach the trail. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous.732) is the highest point. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. willow and cottonwood country. This makes for a great loop drive.
Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. narrow canyons. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. about one mile south of town. % 702-623-5025. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11.6 miles to a parking area. glacial lakes. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family.” Elevations range from 6. where you turn south. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. Return the way you came. cirque basins. descends toward a watercourse. USGS 7. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. depending on weather conditions. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range.415). can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October.800 feet above sea . Mountain lions. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). including Singas Creek. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. more than 10. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. big horn sheep.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. Hikers can visit rock peaks. Come prepared for anything. Horses are welcome on these trails. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks.
then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. set at 9. as there are no trout here. so check road conditions before heading out. The five-mile.400 feet. of course. The 1.400 feet and heads north. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. % 702-752-3357. % 702-738-7135. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. After about a mile and a half. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. know this region as well as anyone. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. this is the high point of the trek. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. The pass is often closed in winter. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. Hyslop. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. At 10.Adventures n 147 level. and his dog Molly. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way.300-foot . Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). From Roads End. Franklin Lake NW. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. Pause to rest but not to fish. Feel free.500 feet.
Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake.000-foot mark. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. subalpine forests.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. Finally. Idaho. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. From the trailhead.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. Just past the spring. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. On a good day. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. Unfortunately. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. Most of the paths are found in the 113. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. the closest town.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. The trail drops again.700 feet. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. Return the way you came. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). Wild- . Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip.000 feet to 10. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
call % 702-758-6493. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. rainbows. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. campsites and restrooms. and black bass have become a favorite catch. is also a good fishing spot. and everything is open year-round. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. To reach the lake from Elko. % 702-623-5025. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. Channel cats. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. mountain whitefish. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. supports brook. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. brown and rainbow trout. For more information. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . The reservoir is also open to water-skiing.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. The site has a paved boat ramp. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds.
Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. elevation 8. For more information. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. trumpeter swam. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. At the foot of the range. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. white-faced ibis. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko.154 n Cowboy Country ers. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. Turn left and head south 32 miles. midway between the northern and southern portions. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. so check road conditions before heading out. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. short-eared owl and American kestrel. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. % 702-738-5171. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. including bald and golden eagle. . contact the US Forest Service. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. To reach the refuge from Elko. great sandhill crane. Within six miles of the trailhead. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers.800 feet. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass.000 acres. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. Angel Lake Near Wells. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. For an easier drive from Wells. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge.
the bowcut trout. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. 1250 Lamoille Highway. For more information. HC 60. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . Raley’s. 2511 Mountain City Highway. Rainbow. the spring-fed. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. % 702-7382775. 89801. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. 89833. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. % 702-625-2453. 89833. % 702-664-3414. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. catfish. 423 South Bridge Street. % 702-7388473.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. have become a local haven for divers. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat.400-acre lake. % 702-7442277. 89801. In warmer months. Elko Guide Service. HC 60. crystalline Blue Lakes. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. % 702779-2226. HC30 Box 17 #13. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. Secret Pass Outfitters. % 702-777-DIVE. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. Grandview Marine. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. % 702779-2268. 89801. 89801. To reach the 2. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. PO Box 515. PO Box 685. are the best bets here. 285 12th Street.
especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. $$. Although there isn’t a television to be found. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. then head west for five miles to town. . ranging from 5. The Lovelock Inn. with a 24-hour casino. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. To reach the ranch from I80. Lunch and dinner are extra. % 800-528-1234. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder.500 to 6. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. % 702-538-7585. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. Trips are limited to 16 people. lounge. 2805 Unionville Road. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. one tame and the other decidedly not so. 55 Cornell Avenue. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. lodging and all the extras. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. 1420 Cornell Avenue. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. is the most happening place in town. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. pool and jacuzzi. is convenient to I-80. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. % 702-738-7135. offers 130 acres of terrain. $$$. $-$$. % 702-753-6867. Elko SnoBowl. % 702-273-2937. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables.200 feet.200 vertical feet.500 feet.000 acres of skiable mountain. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. restaurant.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. The outfit boasts 5. not to mention 74 rooms. covering 5. depending on snowfall.
the 170-room Holiday Inn. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$$. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. with 150 rooms. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the 80-room Val-U Inn. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. the Red Lion Inn. restaurant and full bar. There are plenty of cheap. and the Holiday Motel. % 800-645-5658. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Model T Motel. in- . but also its own charter airline. starting with the two biggies. % 702-738-8425. % 702-625-1818. The Red Lion not only has a casino. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. basic motels on the main drag. $$. $-$$. $$-$$$. 1930 Idaho Street. There are also two Best Westerns. $$-$$$. % 800-346-5306. 837 Idaho Street. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. and the generic. % 800-633-6435. including the queen of Elko establishments. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. % 800-262-8901. % 702-738-8421. $-$$. % 800-545-0044. offering 70 rooms. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. % 702-623-5248. the Gold Country Motor Inn. the Ameritel Inn Elko. the Red Lion Inn. $$. a pool and 223 rooms. the Super 8. restaurant and bar. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. Casino Express. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. $$. $$. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. % 702-623-3661. eateries.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7.000. % 702-623-3646. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Days Inn. % 702-623-1180. is for you. The Gold Country Inn. $$. $$$$$. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-1116. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. a lounge with live entertainment. % 702-738-8787. 2065 Idaho Street. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$. casino. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. $-$$. 400 1st Street. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. 2050 Idaho Street. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. $-$$. % 702-7387261. offers 40 rooms. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$$. 3015 Idaho Street. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. and the Motel 6.
has 70 rooms. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. There is even space for campers and RVers. 2401 Mountain City Highway. along with a pool. % 702-578-3530. 340 Commercial Street. % 702-753-6356. % 702-753-6281. a swimming pool. The Shilo Inn. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. % 702-738-7115. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. $$. Stonehouse Country Inn. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. is an exclusive. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. $$-$$$. detached cabin with jacuzzi. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. % 702-738-8488. % 702-753-6363. Just outside of Lamoille.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. $-$$. % 702-738-5141. biking and horseback riding. $$$-$$$$. hiking and fly fishing. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. Stockmen’s Hotel. PO Box 281208. Red’s Ranch. $$. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. bar and pool. Away from Idaho Street. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. PO Box 281381. . jacuzzi and fitness center. $$$$. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. Lamoille. 89828. % 702-738-5522. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. $-$$. and the Thunderbird Motel. $$$-$$$$. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. $$$-$$$$. There are 141 rooms. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. 345 Idaho Street. $$-$$$. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. $-$$. restaurants. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. some with kitchenettes. 1755 Idaho Street. including skeet shooting. Jiggs Guest Ranch. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed.
456 6th Street. % 702-752-3353. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. $. % 702-752-2116. PO Box 300. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. % 702-752-3604.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. Cottonwood Ranch. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. the Rest Inn Suites. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. The Super 8. There are more than 1. $$-$$$. % 702-752-3384. if you’re into chains. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. has 56 rooms. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. % 800-848-7300. most of them planted along 6th Street. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. even by the neighbors in Utah. 326 6th Street. which also has a restaurant and bar.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. $. PO Box 260090. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. 89826. % 702-7523065. % 702-4082338. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. $-$$. 576 6th Street. Down the street. and the Best Western Sage Motel. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. For more information. % 702-752-2151. % 702-488-2315. Together . 1250 East 6th Street. $. % 702-752-2277. % 702-752-2101. the Outdoor Inn. and the Old West Inn. % 702-752-3888. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. There are 57 rooms. $$$-$$$$. PO Box 1300. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. $-$$$$. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. offers another 24 rooms. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. $. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. Jarbidge. On Main Street. HC 62. $-$$. $$-$$$. the Chinatown Motel. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. HC 62. 930 6th Street. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. % 702-488-2311. If not. $-$$. $-$$. 100 Wendover Boulevard. On the north side of town. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant.
Nearby. a health club. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. % 702-273-2971. % 800-537-0207. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. 485 Cornell Avenue. 410 Cornell Avenue. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. % 702-664-2888. $$-$$$. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. leg of lamb. The Peppermill Hotel. 260 Maine Street. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. 1420 Cornell Avenue. is another gamer’s haven. serving steak. with 90 rooms. live showroom entertainment. along with daily specials. % 702-273-3232. % 702-273-7773. which basks in the Basque tradition.000-square-foot casino. Wee B’s Pizza & More. % 702-623-3197. which has live entertainment. pool and jacuzzi. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. offers breakfast. including restaurants and lounges. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. . The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. a 14. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. In the center of town. Mexican food and pizza. % 702-273-7444.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. jacuzzi. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. live entertainment. tennis courts. $-$$. 9 PM on Sunday. 750 Cornell Avenue. lunch and dinner. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. shrimp and Basque side dishes. and Pizza Factory. % 800-648-9660. is open until 10 PM every day. and until 2 PM on Sunday. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. 680 Wendover Boulevard. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. lounges. the Super 8. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. restaurants. pool. % 702-273-2442. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. $$. La Casita. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday.
while The Griddle. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. % 702-738-9691. 2065 Idaho Street. Specializing in steak. % 702-623-4104. % 702-738-5141. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. but get there before 1 PM. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-6777. This being ranch country. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. The atmosphere is definitely casual. seafood and chicken. . offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. % 702-623-2908. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. % 702-623-2977. Restaurante San Fermin. Stockmen’s Hotel. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. % 702-623-3455. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. Another Basque establishment. % 800-545-0044. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. home of the world’s largest potato field. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. % 702-625-2555. The Steak House. China Garden. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. all of their meat is cut to order. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. % 702-738-3214. since 1863. Elko The Red Lion Inn. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Toki Ona. % 702-623-4440. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. 1061 West Fourth Street. 1550 Idaho Street. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 405 Silver Street. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. 180 Melarkey Street. 95 South Bridge Street. 340 Commercial Street.
just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. % 702-7382541. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. % 702-488-2311. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. If you crave Mexican food. Prices range from moderate to expensive. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. delivers on its name. where it survived The Big One in ’06. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. Burger Bar. to peruse the ornate bar. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. also serves hearty meals. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). Pine Lodge. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. 217 Idaho Street. % 702-738-1622. 1740 Mountain City Highway. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. 2525 Mountain City Highway. 9 Beans and a Burrito. % 702-738-7088. depending on weather conditions. La Fiesta. . The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. % 702-738-7898. Main and Humboldt Streets. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. 780 Commercial Street. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. opens daily at 11 AM. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. % 702-752-3210. % 702-753-6356. % 702-4882315. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. Pizza Barn. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. % 702-753-3877. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post.300 souls. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. % 702-753-6363.
The main draw here is 11.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive.400 feet. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. offer 12 different restaurants. There is running water and vault toilets. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. the area has two campgrounds. call % 702-738-5171.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. 22 miles north of Lovelock. which holds trout and walleye. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. % 800-848-7300.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. The Peppermill Hotel. two beautiful US Forest Service . Set at 7. just north of the dam. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. % 800-648-9660. located at the end of Hanson Street. For modern hunter-gatherers. 100 Wendover Boulevard. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. For more information. $3 per night in winter. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. call % 800-962-2638. 27 and 29 are especially good. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley.600 feet. For more information. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. Set at 7. 25. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. The other one. Fees are $7 per night in summer. 23. call % 702-538-7321. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. The fee is $7 per night. Sites 22. 680 Wendover Boulevard. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. For more information. $8 for a two-family site.
all free. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. One mile north of town. Set at 8. first-served sites. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. % 208-5434129. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. Angel Creek is set at 6. For information on the above campgrounds. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. depending on the availability of running water. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. For more information. including three run by the US Forest Service. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night.900 feet. The fee is $5 per night. with running water. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest.800 feet and is popular with anglers.500 feet.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. The campground. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. and are open June to October. . Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. offering 18 sites with running water. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. and the fee is $8 per night. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. and the fee is $7 per night. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. but no running water. About five miles up NV 225. % 702-752-3357. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. The cabins are open October through mid-May. has 37 first-come.
949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. writer. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. an 11. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. who once roamed this entire area. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. like Belmont and Rhyolite. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. are in a state of “arrested decay. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. US For- B Pioneer Territory . Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. however.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. both socially and physically. Others. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. Meanwhile. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. Nevada Division of State Parks. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Geographically. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. People and services are scarce. low taxes. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. but the rest of the country. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. Toiyabe. and six state parks to explore.000. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains.Touring n 167 est Service. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. Rocky Mountain elk. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. affordable housing . In the lowlands. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. In the Mojave Desert. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. Department of Defense. then limber pine at higher elevations. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts.
Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. It’s also one of the hottest. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. as of this writing. % 702-727-5800. only winery in Nevada. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. % 702-751-0821. mission-style. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. % 702-7276900. contact the Chamber of Commerce. is the first and. blue and white building. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. 1771 Sagehen Road. 1141 South Highway 160. The 22.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . In 1997. 3810 Winery Road. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. authorizing up to 90. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. According to Winona LaDuke. On the south end of town in a modern. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. there’s no competition). % 702-7270896. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans.
then head west for about 20 miles.300 spread over 545 square miles. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. snipe. and the second-greatest in all of North America. however. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. following the signs to Ash Meadows. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. HCR 70. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. mallards. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. . whitefaced ibises. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. coots. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. % 702-372-1131. It’s no easy job. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. moorhens. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. Amargosa Valley. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. coyotes and rabbits. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. great blue herons. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. NV 89020. Box 610Z. including ducks. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. % 702-372-5435. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. inaccessible to the general public. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. Visitors can. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. for some handmade Mexican food. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. prairie falcons.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service.
170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. NV 89020. Kelly’s Bottle House. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. . The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley.000 claims over 30 square miles. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. HC 70. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. % 702-5532200. Amargosa Valley. % 702-3725459. maps. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. and the old train depot. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street.000. 19 hotels. three newspapers. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Now recognized as a state historic site. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. PO Box 6102. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. 50 saloons.000. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. the gray. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. for more information.
shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. Goldfield Founded in 1902. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. turn-of-the-century frontier community. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. however. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. In the first decade of the 20th century. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. Today the remains of stone buildings. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. % 702-553-2424. constructed in 1908 for $500. Local residents were used as models. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. .Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. keeping a population of more than 20. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. Once the largest city in the state.” a collection of white. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest.000 dizzy with gold fever. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. By 1920. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here.000. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. when the money ran dry. crystal chandeliers. life-size. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield.
Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. 301 Brougher Avenue. and east-west-running US 6. however. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. % 702-482-9676. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. built in 1908 and still in use today. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. Before heading out. % 702482-3558. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. including the old post office that is now the local museum. and spend a few hours following its trail. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. % 702-485-6365. . Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. the Central Nevada Museum.
In 1911. Like many Nevada locales.000 acres. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. are available by special request. Bartlett House. including a map room. As a judge. A library. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. see below under On Foot. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. which helped put the state on the map. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. The museum is open daily. with Hawthorne the new seat. 9 AM to 5 PM. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. and the 1907 George A. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. As this is being written. which total more than 260. power plants. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. For more information. the town exploded – figuratively – and . The hillsides abound with the original headframes. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. Mineral. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. ore bins. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. For more on these wonderful regions. Located on the north edge of town. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. Admission is free. slide show and research facilities. photographs and exhibits. which dates to 1906. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. call % 702-482-5355. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population.
500 people. The Mineral County Museum. minerals. 898 E Street. Victorian furniture. Nevada seat and the Mono . but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. is nearby Walker Lake. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. cameras and photography. Admission is free. below. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. To reach Candelaria. noon to 4 PM in winter. fire and railroad equipment. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked.000 residents. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. and by 1890 the good times were over. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. Take this road six miles to the town. restaurant and Native American gift shop. The main attraction. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. At the zenith of its existence. (See On Water. % 702-945-5142.) Before heading to the lake. at the corner of 10th and D streets. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. a combination truck stop. the town boasted 1. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. % 702-945-3266. just three miles from the California border. Near the northern tip of the lake. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. To see where it all started. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. rocks. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. paved road on the right. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. however. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14.000. wildlife and fossils. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
From Caliente. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. is open year-round. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. All of them offer overnight camping. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. along with many other events. The 2. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. pinyon and juniper forests. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. below). winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. located in a long. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. % 702-728-4467. The park. There are 42 campsites. native plants and unique rock formations. Boats are not recommended.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. but travel is not advised during winter months.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. For information on any or all. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. set at 5. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs.200 feet. From . Kershaw-Ryan State Park. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon.
The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. hazy afternoon. All told. From Caliente. Winter travelers might also find snow here.000. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. men in black and all things conspiratorial. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Packed with historic points of interest. % 702-962-5215. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. There are 37 campsites. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. they ran up to $1 million. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. true believers theorize. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. government cover-ups. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. The original building costs totaled $16. for a walking/driving tour map.
% 702-729-2515. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. selling souvenirs and literature. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. The park is open all year. sleeping quarters. a bar and cemetery. including the old mill. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. a thought scarier than any little green men.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. If you’re in the neighborhood. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. Ichthyosaurs. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. or fish lizards. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West.
April. following a stream into Trail Canyon. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. through Gabbs. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. Return the way you came.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. the highest point in Nevada at 13. elk. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. The trail seems faint at times. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. deer. There are numerous access points to the 115. From here. call % 702-867-3001. mountain lion. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. October and November. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. turn right. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. travel west six miles to NV 773. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. To reach the park from Hawthorne. Interpretive tours are held in March. July. The trail climbs nearly 2. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west.000 feet in 3½ miles. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. For more information. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. Located in the relatively dry. then half a mile east. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. where desert bighorn sheep. to NV 884. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. The hike begins on the road. up through the sparse forest of . passing just underneath and east of the peak itself.140 feet. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. June. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. August. From here go seven miles to a junction.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side.
020-foot Peavine Peak. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). About 500 yards beyond the mill. USGS quads for Carvers NW. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. The main trail leads straight ahead. where it crosses the water several times. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. pinyon pine and juniper. Consult Toms Canyon. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. another narrow.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. The 38. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. too. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. limber pine. nine miles from the trailhead. Pine Creek. the trail gains 1. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike.361-foot Arc Dome. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. up and up alongside the South Twin River. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. and at higher elevations. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. The path descends further. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. . Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. About a mile and a half later. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail.
then sharply northwest to the South Summit. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. deer and coyote.949 feet above sea level. is lined with aspen and birch. south. It was used as a hunting camp 5. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. is imposing Mount Jefferson. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. After turning west. Return the way you came. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. going west. From Tonopah.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. 11. Turn left and head toward the highest point. The high point. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. literally and figuratively. which tops out at 11. which marks the way to Pine Creek.000 years ago. . The summit trail. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. In fact. mountain lion. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow.
Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves.856foot Monitor Peak. with Dry Lake off to the west. From the trailhead. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. The 98. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. climbing up the creek drainage. so travel with care. set aside in 1989. rugged country. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. and the skills to use them. Hikers should have maps and a compass. To complete a nice loop hike. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . The trail first splits at mile three. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. As you’ll see. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. Elk. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. The main trail continues straight ahead. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. This is remote. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek.000 acres. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain.
Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. Also close by. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. crosses the water and begins a steep. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. White’s masterful book. 1997. in Echo Canyon State Park. Meanwhile. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. then descending into Ash Canyon. Once atop the plateau. % 702-4826286. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. . some will lead hikes and photography trips. Enjoy the views.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. then continue south two miles back to the campground. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. refer to Michael C. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. Wilderness Press.
then continues south to a junction. which. Lewis. 89049. PO Box 168. Berg. Galvin. % 702-482-6258. Box 77206.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. climbing into a small valley.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. James S. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. 8½ miles from US 95. 89045. Moapa Adam R.108 feet. 89049. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. HCR 60. 27 Smith Gage Road. (If you pass Millers. % 702-463-4497. % 702-964-1207. 89025. Round Mountain William A. Grand Slam Safaris. 89430. PO Box 162. Yerington Marty S. The road turns east briefly. turn left and head due south. at 9. % 702-964-2145. Stahl. . PO Box 1149. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. Howard. Mustang Outfitters. Nicholas Perchetti. % 702-482-6422. 89317. Expeditions Unlimited. Timberline Outfitters. PO Box 65.. 89045. leaving a strenuous. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Roy Lerg. Mason Valley Guide Service. Timberline Outfitters. Lund Gary Luisetti. PO Box 428. 89447. Just beyond the right-of-way. % 702-465-2598. Jr. unmarked hike to the summit. you’ve gone too far. PO Box 725. Smith. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. % 702-283-7797.
The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. and Pine Creek. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. known for abundant wildlife. however. Continuing north. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). % 702377-2490.000 to construct in 1876. Belmont saw most of the 2.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. The other ruins are on private property. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. Just north of Pine Creek. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. For road conditions. Manhattan boomed. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. % 702-482-6331. A few dozen people still live in the area. so keep your distance. which was first settled in the 1860s. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. is open for business on weekends. The Belmont Saloon. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River.
and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. For more information contact the BLM. Continuing north. % 702-482-7800. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. . Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. mountain mahogany and aspen. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. As tempting as a bath might seem. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. to establish missions. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. The springs are half a mile away. the fauna changes to ponderosa. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). Wilson National Back Country Byway. stay out. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. Not only is the water very hot. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. but check on road conditions before you go. Take an unpaved road .2 mile west of Lockes going south. Pioneer Territory Mt.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. From Pioche. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. then part of Utah Territory. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch.
190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. brown. Two of the best spots are Peavine . Brookies and cutthroat also abound. % 702-727-8276. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. cutthroat and rainbow trout. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. Just a mile north of Dyer. 13. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. Information Sources For more information and a map. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. % 702727-4504. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773.140-foot Boundary Peak. At Oakridge Landing. 5340 South Oakridge Road. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. contact the BLM. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. % 702289-4865.
Covering 37. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end).4 miles). Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers.7 miles north of Hawthorne).000 acres. picnic facilities and boat ramp. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. October and November. The lake is named for Joe Walker. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. April. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. % 702-482-6286. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. however. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. In fact. .Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. rainbow and brown trout. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. Fishing derbies are held in February. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. After the road peters out. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12.
but motors are prohibited. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). largemouth bass and white crappie. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Bishop. CA. 93514. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows.000 acres. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. about 13 miles south of the confluence. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. Boaters are welcome. Contact the refuge office. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. Classic Anglers. Howe. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. NV 89415. Brown trout. while Canada geese. are the main attraction here. Hawthorne. 633 Schley Street. which are stocked in spring and fall. % 702-394-4040. Kathleen L. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. % 702-725-3417. write the group at PO Box 867. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. for details. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. % 760-872-2533 .
Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. Stahl. James S.. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Jr. Timberline Outfitters. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. home on the range. at least temporarily. 89049. Nicholas Perchetti. % 702-482-6258. Box 77206. 89045. Mustang Outfitters. Timberline Outfitters. Tonopah Stanley R. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. Mason Valley Guide Service. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. 89045. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. PO Box 168.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. % 702-889-8844. % 702-964-1207. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. Berg. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . 89447. PO Box 725. Advance reservations are highly suggested. The family-style outings. PO Box 1149. 89104. % 702-482-6422. The big enchilada is Saddle West. PO Box 65. 1220 South Highway 160. % 702-3721717. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. % 702-964-2145. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. HCR 60. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. 89049. Howard. Galvin. Suite 9B.
is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. 420 West Main Street. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. hair salon. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. 1201 South Highway 160. In short. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. $-$$. % 702-553-2225. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. The other two motels are the El Portal. $-$$. Highway 160 at Loop Road. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. $-$$. which has 30 rooms and a pool. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. % 702-553-2250. % 702-553-2333. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. % 702-727-5100. $-$$. $. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. $-$$. non-smoking rooms and a pool. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. $-$$. Don’t worry. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. along with a pool and honeymoon room. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. $-$$. has 32 rooms. including a heated pool. % 800-508-9493. % 702-727-5445. % 702553-2912. casino and lounge. With 110 rooms. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. The Exchange Club Motel. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. was built in 1905. US 95 at First Street. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. while the inn offers laundry services. There are 60 rooms. a restaurant. 604 Main Street. . $-$$. lounge. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. 9000 North 5th Avenue. $. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. % 702-4853431. A lounge with live entertainment. a casino with live 21. though. a convenience store.
$. $. and the 33-room Clown Motel. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. lounge with entertainment. lounge. the Butler has 25 rooms. % 702-945-3321. location. 700 Main Street. a Jacuzzi and a pool. a casino. % 702-945-2444. If you’re into chains. 100 North Main Street. $. Adjacent to Walker Lake. 255 Main Street. $. 100 South Main Street. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. with 40 rooms. Location. $. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. $. The . Just a block away. workout equipment. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. free movies and is close to the convention center. $. restaurants. including four two-bedroom units. % 702482-5920. % 702-482-6238. $. % 702-945-2660. This place has it all: 75 rooms. two restaurants. $$. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. Dating back to 1908. a casino. There are 103 rooms. % 702-482-9777. 521 North Main Street. The Jim Butler Motel. and the sprawling Station House. $$. It has 94 rooms. RV parking and free continental breakfast. has 39 rooms. % 702-482-3511. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. 1301 5th Street. has been catering to travelers since 1943. 1402 5th Street. comes highly rated. pool and free in-room coffee. 1 Cliff House Road. 540 F Street. 323 Main Street. arcade and laundry. at very reasonable rates. a heated pool and a small play area. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. also has a pool. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. 1100 Main Street. with a restaurant. The Best Western Desert Lodge. RV hookups. % 702-945-3352. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. a restaurant and free coffee. % 702-482-3577. % 702-482-6202. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. % 702-482-6224. % 702-482-6291. Even dogs are welcome. $. 826 Main Street.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. Some of the larger. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. $-$$. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. a restaurant and bar. which has 93 rooms.
$-$$. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. $-$$. $$. % 702-945-3316. Jacuzzi. % 800-896-4567. pool and movie theater. RV park and four bungalows. on the corner of 5th and J streets. 720 Sierra Highway. formerly Players Island.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. a pool. $$. live entertainment. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. fitness center and live music. which has 14 rooms. % 800-346-4611. a pool and a hot tub. family fun center and an airport shuttle. including dozens of suites. $. airport shuttle. 11 North Main Street. % 800-621-0187. $$-$$$. the Hawthorne. . the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. pool. has five rooms. 39 North Center Street. with blueprints for hundreds more. % 702-465-2341. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. entertainment. has 700 rooms. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. pool and spa. $-$$. Jacuzzi. $-$$. which has 14 rooms. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. % 702-463-2998. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. restaurants. movie theater and kids’ play area. $.900 or so residents. $$-$$$. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. The Casa Blanca. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. $. % 702-945-2143.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. $$. various restaurants. % 702-465-2573. a golf course. 301 Mesa Boulevard. Jacuzzi. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. a pair of family-style restaurants. To find a quieter environment. has 67 rooms. % 702-465-2959. % 702-346-7444. 2827 Highway 208. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. Just west of Smith in Wellington. % 702-463-2991. bars. % 800-346-7721. bowling alley.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. pool. which has two non-smoking rooms. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. and the Rocket. golf course. tennis courts. 965 Sierra Highway. $-$$$. % 702-945-2544. % 702-945-2573. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. with a 24-hour casino. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. a 925-seat showroom. 390 North Sandhill Road. Run by the Masini family. % 702-463-2481. a lounge. $$-$$$. which at last count had 1. 694 Sierra Highway. $.
$. 100 LaCour Street. pharmacy and bank. 100 West Stagecoach Road. Besides. % 702-729-2515. % 702-726-3106. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. also have full-service restaurants. which has five rooms. which has 22 rooms. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. Rose Garden. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. $. % 702-726-3291.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. % 702-727-6440. $-$$. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. % 702726-3777. % 702-751-7777. a restaurant and bar. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. % 702-727-2404. is open 24 hours a day. has 13 rooms. $-$$. and welcomes pets. Flying saucer parking is out back. and the buffet starts at $2. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. the Silver Spur. % 702-727-7300. 601 South Highway 160. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. $. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. 450 Front Street. % 702-9625404.99. $. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. 884 A Street. 1220 South Highway 160. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. . No fast food. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. % 702-727-7777. % 702-727-0909. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. Stagestop Casino. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. % 702-962-5551. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. At Saddle West Casino.
also have family-style restaurants. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. 501 I Street. 570 E Street. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. 100 North Main Street. % 702-482-6202. also has a 24-hour café. and Burro Inn. % 702-945-2727. Traditional American and Continental fare. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. % 702-553-2111. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. 348 North Main Street. 923 5th Street. you could do worse than El Marques. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. % 702-945-5253. % 702-4823885. fill the menu. % 702-5532225. % 702-945-3321. has a great $7. The . % 702-9452994. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. try Happy Buddha. 1291 5th Street. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. % 702-553-2368. Yerington Casino West. % 702-945-3320. % 702-463-2481. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. % 702-945-1700. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. is the home of two restaurants.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. The Station House. Maggies. % 800508-9493. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. 1100 Main Street. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. 785 E Street. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. % 702482-9777. % 702-945-3908. The Exchange Club. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. 11 North Main Street. open until 9 PM. 540 F Street. including excellent seafood.
45 North Main Street. Dini’s Luck Club. Peavine Campground is set at 6. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. 11 North ALT 95. The Casa Blanca. % 702-7263194. To reach the campground from Tonopah. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. 2281 West Scales Way. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Two blocks up. % 702463-2868. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. % 702-4633707. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. 111 Highway 208. Carl’s Burgers. serves breakfast. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. along with the usual buffet.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702-463-2054. % 702-4623300. has a 24-hour coffee shop. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. % 800-346-7721. % 800-896-4567. is like a blast from the 50s. % 702-727-2314.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. The Virgin River Hotel. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. 702-726-3138. The Mason Valley Country Club. satisfying and never-ending. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. There’s even an indoor workout facility. which serves breakfast. lunch and dinner. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. % 800-621-0187. It’s a perfect spot for lunch.
above. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. % 702-4826286. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. To reach the campground from Tonopah. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. see On Foot. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. For directions. through Belmont. There is no running water and no fee. From here.700 feet. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. the unpaved road goes south briefly. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. From Tonopah.100foot level. providing access to fishing and hiking. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. To reach the campground from Tonopah. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. For information. The campground is another three miles away. offers sites for $11 per night. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right.800 feet in the Monitor Range. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. contact the BLM. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. There are 11 sites set at 6. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. % 702-945-3373. . take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. % 702-687-6100. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson.
Suggested Reading . David Banks and Lucinda Handley. 1997. 1995. Noonday Press. 1993. David Communications. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. They are listed in alphabetical order. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. 1994. Henry Holt and Company. 1996. DeLorme. American Automobile Association. 1990. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. Moon Publishing. 1993. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. American Automobile Association. 1998. Basin and Range by John McPhee. Falcon Press Publishing. 1995. 1997. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Falcon Press Publishing. published by the State of Nevada. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Frank Amato Publications. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson.
Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Clark. Wilderness Press. 1997. Jr. Falcon Press Publishing. American & Geographic World Publishing. 1997. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. 1997. 1993. 1992. 1969. 1993. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Bischoff. Legend and Description by David J. . 1995. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Roughing It by Mark Twain. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. La Siesta Press. White. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. Gem Guides Book Company. The Globe Pequot Press. Maturi. Mojave Books. Stolley.. Falcon Press Publishing.
146. touring. 103. 198. Pioneer territory. Las Vegas. hiking. 152. 198. 15-16. 43-44. 36. 26-27 buses. 174-175 Austin. 29. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. fishing. 28. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. touring. 121. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. see transportation air tours. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. wild. Pioneer territory. 2. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 77. biking. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 142. horseback riding. Pony Express territory. Reno-Tahoe area. 123. hiking. Pony Express territory. 163-164. accommodations. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 200 Basque people. 38. Cottonwood Valley. see also zoos. 200 altitude sickness. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 17. 67 bowling. Ichthyosaur State Park. 27 books. 41-43. 117. 94-95. 187-190. 124 auto racing. 50-52. 185. 113. outfitters. safety rules.183. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 54-55. biking. 13-15. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 115. 199. hiking outfit- Index . 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 46. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). festivals. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 179. Mount Jefferson. 49. camping. 85. Pony Express territory. 181-182. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 42 burros. camping. events. touring. 193. safety rules. biking. specific towns airlines. see also petroglyphs. 192 Big Smoky Valley. see also camping. 144 backpacking. 164. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 193 Aurora. 193-197. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 135. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 169. 78. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 152. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. skydiving. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 13. 132-133. 187-190. 15-16. 129-130 bungee jumping. 89. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 35. 183-184. 78 BLM. Leonard Rock Shelter. 8386. Lovelock Indian Cave. events. 194. 91 Barley Creek. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 137 Candelaria. 194. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 168-169. 67-70. 118. touring. camping. 169-170 Anasazi people. 199-201. 197. pictographs art galleries. 132. restaurants. 3135. 117-119. 92-96. 76. 86. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 179. price scale. 32. wagon trips. accommodations. camping. 117-118. 17. Pioneer territory. 125-128. Reno-Tahoe area. 115-116 ballooning. wildlife and bird watching antelope. restaurants. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 75-76. 104-107. 184. 102. see water sports car rental. 10-12. 182-183. transportation. 104. 10. 155 boating. 154 animal life. 144. 174 canoeing. restaurants. fishing. 120-123. camping. restaurants. 126. Elko. 144.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 156160. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. 118. 119-120. 27. 142. Bonneville Salt Flats. Reno-Tahoe area. 187-188 biking. 48-49. special events. 15-16 bird watching. Las Vegas territory. 182. see transportation Carson City. 186 Belmont. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 131. Las Vegas area.
4. restaurants. 171. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 137. touring. 200 Cowboy Country. 77. 74. Northumberland Cave.. fishing. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. outfitters. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 120-121. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. restaurants. Reno-Tahoe area. Las Vegas territory. safety rules. horseback riding. 12. 187-190. 142. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 185. 100. 139 cruises. touring. 22. 109. 83. camping. 71 Cottonwood Creek. Lehman Caves. 6-7 ters. sport-climbing ratings. 117. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Rhyolite. 109 Glacier Trail. 131. 153 Chimney Springs. Hamilton. 143-144. 118. 185. 15-16. 176. springfish. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. hiking. accommodations. 119-120. Candelaria. camping. accommodations. touring. 139140 Ely. Toquima Cave. 74 Death Valley National Park. 120. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 116-117. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. fishing. 75.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. camping. 112 Genoa. 108 events: Cowboy country. 119. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 180 Earth Connections. 125. 111. 178. Treasure City. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. camping. restaurants. 152-155. 155. 3. 14 Colorado River. 17. 179.5 Cathedral Gorge. 149-150. events. 65 gambling. 155-156. 169. John C. 121. 125. camping. Las Vegas area. Pioneer territory. Samuel. 126-127. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 176. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. Midas. Metropolis. touring. Las Vegas area. 37-41. Pioneer territory. 109. hiking. 143. 97. accommodations. 144. 67. 137. 188-189 Clemens. 106 diving. Cowboy country. 29. outfitters. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 125. 87 Dayton. 43-44. 171-172 Gold Point. 126. 172 golf. 168. fishing. 184. 186 elk. 70. 161-162. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 174-175. 179. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 98 fossils. 70-71. 182. 190 . 186 Cave Lake State Park. 134-135. auto racing. mercury warnings. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. camping. outfitters. transportation. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 88. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 163-164. 89. Lovelock Indian Cave. touring. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 106. camping. Lake Tahoe area. Pony Express territory. 18-19 climbing. Jungo. 44-48. see events fish. fishing. 177. biking. Dunn Hatchery. special events. hiking outfitters. 98. pupfish. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 86. 73. 75. outfitters. Gold Center. 138-139. 160 Goshute Mountains. 116. Rochester Mining District. 188-189 fishing. camping. 179. 40. 179. 115 Gold Center. Reno-Tahoe territory. 137. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 13-15. 124. 35-36. 79. 152. 127. 80. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 167. 174. 170. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 4-5 Gardnerville. 119. 157-158. 192. 137. 139. 122-123. 194-195. 78 casinos. 82. hiking. restaurants. Eberhardt. skiing. 102-104. 132-133. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 170-171 Denio Junction. 109. 15-16 Fremont. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 175 climate. 112. 121-122. 112. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. restaurants. 150-151. 190-193. 170. Shermantown. 177. 46 Comstock Lode. 12. 147-148 Eberhardt. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 142 Great Basin. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 110. Camp Winfield Scott.
fishing. 141-142. 50-52. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 181-187. 192. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 13-15. 117 hotels. 31-35. 40-41. Las Vegas. 38. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. events. 156. 106. 151. restaurants. Pony Express territory. 162. 41. Pioneer territory. 120 Incline Village. 41-43. 164. description of. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 166. fishing. 37-41. water sports. 86. 80-81 hiking. 46. 160. biking. camping. 1. 93. 162. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. touring. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 36. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. camping. 193. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 112-117. 125. 148-149 Humboldt River. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. camping. 149-150. restaurants. hiking. 23-29. accommodations. 47. touring. watersports. 150. map. 20. touring. 53-54. 165-167. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 55. 77. 102. 62. 83. 98. 64. 57-58. camping. skiing. camping. 3536. transportation. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 52-53. touring. 65. 75. 39. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 200-201. touring. 82. 29-31. 78-79 Jungo. restaurants. 34-35 Lehman Caves. snow sports outfitters. events. 140-141 land. 82. air tours. Pony Express territory. 177 mercury warnings. camping. 32-33 Lake Mohave. 28. Nevada. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. outfitters. biking. 44 Las Vegas territory. touring. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 46. 32 horseback riding. 146. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Reno-Tahoe territory. 179 Kingston. 195-196. RenoTahoe territory. 66. 37-40. Pony Express territory. restaurants. Reno-Tahoe territory. hiking outfitters. Reno. 130. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. 132 Lexington Arch. 54. 152. 148-149 jeep tours. 83-84. camping. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. Las Vegas area. Walley’s Hot Springs. 188-189. 21-22. 153. Pioneer territory. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. see air tours Hemenway Park. 88. restaurants. 198. 127. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. touring and transportation. 79. 90. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 65 Lake Tahoe region. restaurants. 116-117. 24. 78. 163. 91-92. 40. 47 lakes. Kyle Hot Spring. hiking. 149. 137 kayaking. boating outfitters. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 145-150. 103 Hamilton. 39 history: Cowboy country. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Las Vegas territory. hiking. Midas Hot Spring. hiking. 101. 118 Lone Mountain. horseback riding. 48. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 176. 159.Index Great Basin National Park. 46. Pioneer territory. 57. Las Vegas territory. 107. 45. 158. 119 Index . 150. 64. hiking outfitters. 32-33. 4WD trail. state. 187 Manhattan. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. touring. 186-187. 60. balloning and soaring. 129-131. 43. 49-50. 83. 118. camping. skiing. outfitters. 99-100. 90 helicopter tours. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. transportation. 111. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. outfitters. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 91 information sources. special events. 63-66. Cowboy country. transportation. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 110-112. 48-49.
177. 106 nuclear testing. 109. 199 Metropolis. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 86. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. see biking Mount Charleston. 78. 35. 26. 181 Moapa. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 177. Nevada State Mu- . 70-71 mines and mining. 135136. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 69. Lyon County Muserum. Western Folklife Center. 34. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 72-73. Keck Minerals Museum. fishing. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 25. 73. 200 motels. Piper’s Opera House. Beam Fine Art Gallery. restaurants. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 61. camping. 165. 163. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. horseback riding. 107. fishing. 26. 26. 77. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 33. 193-194. 31. Wilbur D. Genoa Courthouse Museum. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 178. 69. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. Nevada Historical Society. Nevada State Library & Archives. Humbolt Museum. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 177. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 29. Fleischmann Planetarium. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. Stewart Indian Museum. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. outfitters. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 70. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. Guinness World of Records Museum. 174. 61. 73. 200. 73. Eureka Sentinel Museum. White Pine Public Museum. 175. 71. Bonneville Speedway Museum. restaurants. 61. see accommodations motorcycles. 187 Mojave Desert. 199. 174. 158. Virginia & Truckee Depot. Marzen House Museum. 174. touring. 75. touring. hiking. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 71. 69. 134 petroglyphs. 25. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 126. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 29 Mount Jefferson. hiking outfitters. Liberace Museum. 91. 11 Mosquito Creek. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. Mineral County Museum. accommodations. 188. 25. 183. 71. 3-4. 153. 43. 68. 109-110. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. hiking. 72. Brewery Arts Center. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. Colorado River Museum. Las Vegas Art Museum. 189-190 Muir. 25-26. 8. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 103. Roberts House Museum. 167-168 Paiutes. 67. 34. 2. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. Marshall Mint Museum. John. 69. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 10. 26. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 139. 142. Clark County Heritage Museum. 108. 127 pictographs. camping. 175. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. National Automobile Museum. 133. Lost City Museum. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 102.206 n Index seum. 173. 25. 2. 199-200. 153 Northumberland Cave. Mark Twain Museum. 25. May Museum and Arboretum. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. touring. fishing. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 98. 73. 34. 68. 73. 180 Minden: events. 197-198. The Castle. 79. 8182 Mesquite. 135. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 173. Central Nevada Museum. 170. 83. Capitol Building and Museum. 2. 61. 4. 80-81 Native American festivals. 34. 171. 32. 171. skiing and snowboarding. 4. 107. 142 Midas. 173. 196197. The Way It Was Museum. see biking mountain biking. 23. Desert Valley Museum. 61 music and theater. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 69. 23 Overton: touring. 43. 165 nuclear waste. 68. 139.
163. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 54. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. fishing. 83-84. hiking. 91. skiing. 144. 104. see mines and mining skiing. Las Vegas area. 195. 36. 200 temperature chart. 186-187. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 106 Siegel. camping. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. fishing. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 163. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 89-91 skydiving. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 190. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 197-199. transportation. touring. hiking. 197 rafting. 66. special events. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 17. 76. 115. 54. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 17. 87. Las Vegas territory. fishing. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 78. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 42. accommodations. 52 pupfish. 9 Sand Mountain. camping. 53-54. 88. 117. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 144. 143. 84-85 swimming. 80 pronghorn antelope. 77. touring. 180 Pioneer territory. 76. camping. 160-163. snow sports outfitters. 93-94. 129-130. 9697. see events Round House Art Gallery. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 92-93. 165-201 plant life. 106 Spooner Lake. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 59-61. 82.” 4 silver. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 150-151. biking. hiking. Reno-Tahoe area. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. camping. see climbing springfish. 9-10. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 85. 187. 185-186. 198. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 114-115 theater. auto. see events price codes. 79.Index Pioche: accommodations. 146-147. 169 Pyramid Lake. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 77-78. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 181. 113. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 48-49 snowboarding. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 193. 138 rock climbing. restaurants. 65 Pony Express territory. touring. hiking. water sports. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. horse. outfitters. fishing. 170 rivers. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. camping. 17. 153 Sparks. fishing. restaurants. 78. 12. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 76. skiing. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 156. 98. 90 sport climbing. hiking and climbing. 49-50. 154. 123-125. see skiing snowmobiling. 197. restaurants. accommodations. 96-97. motorcycle. 79-80. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 193. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 176 rodeos. 134. 84. touring. Benjamin “Bugsy. biking. 179. 167. 17. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). bike. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 74 races. 142. 109 Shoshone people. 144. 179 Searchlight. see climbing rock hunting. 26-27. 173 Index . RenoTahoe area. 89. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. climbing and hiking. 143 Rachel. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 13 Price Lakes. Pony Express territory. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 94 special events. 145-146 prostitution. 98. 163-164. biking. 88 Shermantown. 90 soaring. 112. Pioneer territory. 146. 180.
175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. 156-157. 153-154. Ruby Mountains. touring. 183-184. climbing and hiking. 155. High Rock Canyon. rental cars. 168-169. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 155. 159-160. restaurants. 191-192. 111. 151 Wilson Canyon. 152-155. Pony Express territory. Goshute Mountains. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. camping. 144. 106 trains. camping. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. Reno-Tahoe territory. hiking outfitters. 149. 109 trees. 62. 117. Pioneer territory. hiking. 177. 85. 187. 102. 176 Yerington: accommodations. wildlife and bird watching. events. Table Mountain Wilderness. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 172. 163-164. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 80. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 112. touring. 167. 174 walking. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 29-30. Mark. 127. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 73. touring. 134 Twain. events. outfitters. 146. hiking. 117 Toquima Cave. 35. camping. hiking. 179. see plant life tufas. Jack’s Valley Road. 95. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 98. 68. 139-140 Treasure City. 185. 143. hiking outfitters. 143. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. special events. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. see transportation transportation: airports. 174. Ruby Marsh. touring. Lake Mead. 30-31. Cleve Creek Campground. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 67. Las Vegas territory. restaurants. 147-148. 196. Amtrak. 145-146. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 193 Walker Lake. 135-137. 31. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 44-48. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 31. 191 UFOs. 151 Wovoka. 75. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. 86 Wells: accommodations. 162. 150. camping. restaurants. 61. horseback riding. 163. Arc Dome Wilderness. 89. Santa Rosa Mountains. 20. Pioneer territory. 83. Hemenway Park. 33. 127. 80-81. fishing. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. restaurants. 62. 192. outfitters. camping. 29. water sports. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 193. 26-27. 164. 38. 182-183. 155 . 32. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 97. Walker Lake. outfitters. 41. 55. 190-193. fishing. 178. 104. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. camping. 139.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 71. restaurants. 157. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 25 Topaz Lake. touring. 34-35. Earth Connections. 200-201. events. Winnemucca. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 39 vineyards. 199. 176. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. Echo Canyon State Park. 168 zoos. touring. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. 62. 176 wineries. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 45. 110. Wilson Canyon. 77-78. 160-161. 71-74 Virgin River. 119-120. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. buses. 66. 159. 144. 79-80. 76. 188-189. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 150.