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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
half-pound hot dogs. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. For anyone who loves the outdoors. About 27 million of them. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. that’s good news. According to author John Hart. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. which covers most of Nevada. however. In fact. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. Among the 50 states. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. horses.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. pausing on . the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. you can have the whole wild. as the top tourism destination in the US. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. bison. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. you’ll know better. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. Florida.500 and 10. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. These mammoths.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. In fact. giant sloths. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population.” and for good reason. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself.
Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. points. By about 500 AD. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. including southern Nevada. established trade routes. The Northern Paiutes. however. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. . searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. Many prime archeological sites.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. shells. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. the first European entered Nevada. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Exactly 50 years later. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. Jedediah Smith. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. In the 12th century. His party wintered in California. hand tools. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. wetlands and springs. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. In the south. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. followed in Garces’ footsteps. fish hooks. In 1776.
then returned east along the route the next year. camping at Las Vegas. In 1859. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. and headed over the Sierras. the Mormons were the first white residents. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. In 1830. with Brigham Young as governor. DC. swelling the population well into five figures. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. Eight years later the first wagon train. Nevada became a state on Halloween. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. but the Utah Territory government. the church established the State of Deseret. 1864. covering most of Utah and Nevada. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. In 1845. as it came to be called. The Comstock Lode. and. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). encountering Pyramid Lake. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. dominated by the church. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. but abandoned it two years later. Introduction . By 1857. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. continued to oversee Nevada. Fremont. was dispatched to map the area.History n 3 In the north. who would later become a war hero. which helped open the gateway to the West. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. In 1843 and ’44. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. John C. In 1833. In 1849.
000 people in 1960. the Big Bonanza. then picked up again in the early 1900s. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. Reno and the surrounding areas. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. Howard Hughes sud- . Streets were laid out. later known as the Nevada Test Site. killed two-thirds of them. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. Ironically. but was ambushed. upscale Vegas. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. In 1873. was of a classy. In 1855. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. In 1860. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. the mother of all lodes. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. Meanwhile. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. then underground tests for 30 more. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. Siegel’s vision. son of Winnemucca. was struck in Virginia City. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. In 1874. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. violence escalated. Carson City. bringing town sites. began making money and the boom was on. opened in 1950. the first true hotel-casino. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. particularly in southern Nevada. chief of the Northern Paiutes. commerce and industry. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. however. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. In the teens and ’20s. Warriors under Numaga. the Flamingo soon reopened.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. Winnemucca. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. signed a treaty with the federal government. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. Then in 1966.
a land dominated by a mobile population. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. How much is too much. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. today there are master-planned communities. moving to the region in record numbers. . But the explosion has not been without fallout. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. trappers. The entire West will be watching what transpires. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. To many. Fallon and Mesquite. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. By 1970. DC. miners. and Americans have become moths to the flame. Winnemucca. find enough water.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. This time. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. places like Elko. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. are reaping the windfall. however. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. Mom and their 2. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today.
the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. Fremont in 1844. with nine ranges topping 11. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. towers over Great Basin National Park. The notion of Nevada as a flat. In fact. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. The Colorado River . But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. The roof of Nevada is 13. On the other side of the state. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. then up another range. gurgle through the northern part of the state. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. hills and uplands. across a sagebrush-covered basin. Wheeler Peak.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County.000 feet in the space of a few miles. Yes. down another range. Nevada even has its own 10. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. Here. Near Las Vegas. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. reservoirs and other watery bodies. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. the Carson and the Humboldt. In the north.839foot Matterhorn. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. then disappear into their respective “sinks.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. Get the idea? After all.000 feet to nearly 12. Named by explorer John C. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. dry.000 feet. down a range. and so on.063 feet. 13. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. lakes. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Depending on who’s counting.
000 acres. the largest alpine lake in North America. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. only 65. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness.000 years ago covered 8. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan.500 square miles of western Nevada. most notably Lake Tahoe. For the greens.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. are the only reliable. establishing 77. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. In 1989.000-acre Great Basin National Park. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. natural sources of running water. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. it’s an uphill climb all the way. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. in the remote north near Jarbidge. a great inland sea that 50. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. Lower and drier. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. In the 1970s. the southeastern corner of Nevada.
What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. the soil supports . Still. is generally found throughout the state between 5. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans.000 feet above sea level. The squat Utah juniper. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna.000 feet. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. with its tiny.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. At elevations above 6. Apart from aspens. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. 14 national recreation areas. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. such as rabbitbrush. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. The recommendations have been under review for years. horsebrush and shadescale. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley.000 and 8. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). particularly the Sierra Nevadas. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. greasewood. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. Death Valley. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata).
supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. Washoe pine. In the mountains. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. At the other extreme. lodgepole pine.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. blooms by night here. The king of Great Basin vegetation. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. the official state grass. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. Above the desert floor. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. The Joshua tree. which is actually a type of yucca.000 years.000 feet. the mountain lion. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. creosote bush has an oily. up to 5. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. or jimson weed. hallucinogenic sacred datura. ponderosa pine. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. which make up just 1% of the land. Black bears. willow and dogwood. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. however. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. western white pine. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. bristlecone pine. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. hedgehog and barrel. along with alder. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. prickly pear. The rare.
the black widow and brown recluse. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. beaver. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. redtailed hawk. Blacktail jackrabbits. America’s two poisonous spiders. rainbow. burrowing owl and canyon wren. weasel. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. greater roadrunner. badger. help comes from hunters.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. while mule deer are abundant. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. Meanwhile. chuckwalla. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. prairie falcon. seen on Nevada’s license plates. kangaroo rats. Snakes include several types of rattlers. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. skunk. Gambel’s quail. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. brown. golden and Dolly Varden . In the air over the desert. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. also live in the Mojave. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. with Lahontan cutthroat. fox. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. coyote. Ironically. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. Trout are the favorite of anglers. The desert bighorn sheep. pika. brook.
wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. broken down by specific locales. Reno-Tahoe Territory. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. covering its history. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. on snow and in the air. on land. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. culture and most attractive features. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. like almost every other Nevada visitor. This section also includes sources for expert information. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. Along with detailed information on where to go. such as visitors bureaus. on water. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. Cowboy Country. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. A section on Touring follows.
. . . . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . . . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . . .12 n Introduction ing chart. . $50 to $100 $$$ . . . . Finally. The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . forethought and patience. . . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. Backpacking. It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. Trails may be gone. rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . $100 to $175 $$$$ . Hiking. . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . . . . . . . . . . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . Up to $50 per day $$ . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . . . .
it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly.14 (and sometimes beyond).Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. known as the Yosemite Decimal System. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible.Boulder hopping. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.Adventures n 13 Finally.0 to . ranging from . Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. using the hands.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 . there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.0 to . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb.Climbing. As this guide goes to press. the lower numbers (. Class 2 . . For Class 5 routes. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . the most popular among serious rock climbers. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 .Easy hiking. occasionally using hands Class 4 . so help is usually a long way away.
Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. taking into account personal experience. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. Beyond that. climbing partners. In the arid country of Nevada. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded.10. Be aware of conditions. As with all outdoor activities. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. until all holds disappear at . Allow time to acclimate to altitude. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. clothing. dehydration and lightning. climbers enter the realm of myth. legend. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. not hard-and-fast rules. Begin hiking early in the day. Don’t travel alone. Assistance can take hours or days. By their nature. Storms are more common in the afternoon. If the plan changes. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. Pack spare everything – food. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. Give them descriptions of yourself. n n n n n . Always take fresh water with you. use common sense before you get into trouble. then amended by subsequent climbers.
jack. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. high-clearance job. four-wheel-drive vehicle. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. Not one of those trendy. extra gas. tools. preferably one with a large gas tank. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. spare belts. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. . knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. but a powerful. water and fluids. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. Arizona. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads.
A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. when you left and where you are headed. contact DARES. is more popular than ever. left out of popular literature. Mountain biking in Nevada. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. 85096. n If water is in limited supply. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. stay put. of course. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. PO Box 39340. . Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. stay on it. leave a note telling searchers who you are. minimize talking and eating. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. in wilderness areas). Phoenix. For more information on desert survival. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. however. Do not ration water. drink it as needed. n If you have water. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. The rest of Nevada. n If you find a traveled road. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. AZ. This book isn’t big enough to list them all.
Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. but take extra care. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Ballooning. there are all types of sky-high adventures. Skydiving. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. Fishing. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. there are tourists. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. Soaring Where there is Vegas. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. Many streams. At these higher elevations. the gem of the Sierras. lakes and reservoirs. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. and gigantic Lake Mead. And where there are tourists. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. Meanwhile. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin.
Leave the high altitudes as well. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. Laughlin. on the Colorado River. although they can occur at any time of year. If thunderstorms threaten. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. get out of lowlying areas. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. . summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. In the Great Basin. For those who like to watch. Summer and early fall can be blistering. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. temperatures above 110° are common.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. Flashfloods are the predictable result. throwing rain. but despite the obvious danger. These storms are known to appear with little warning. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains.
% 702234-7331. 850 Harvard Way. Ogden. www. Intermountain Region. Great Basin National Park. Reno. NV 89502. rainy and occasionally snowy. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. too. In the north. US Forest Service. Carson City. Bureau of Land Management. Nevada Department of Transportation. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. NV 89712. 1263 South Stewart Street. basin winters can be chilly. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. see the listings that accompany each chapter. Capitol Complex. . % 800-NEVADA-8. Reno. 1100 Valley Road. In southern Nevada. In the mountains.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. UT. 1300 South Curry Street.com. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. NV 89703. Nevada Division of Wildlife. Nevada Division of State Parks. windy. % 801-625-5182. NV 89520. % 702-688-1500. 84401. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. Nevada Commission on Tourism. % 702-687-4384. 324 25th Street. NV 89710. For information on specific locales. Carson City. % 702-785-6500. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. NV 89311.travelnevada. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. Carson City. Baker. % 702-687-4219.
or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert.” But step outside the hotel-casinos.000-foot peak. both prehistoric and otherwise. closer. Inside the city limits. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. in plain view of the casinos. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. cheap food. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes.000-year-old petroglyphs. . lounge shows – and recently. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. try hiking to an 11. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
$4. % 702-895-3011. Seasonal streams. actual cosmopolitan. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . Southeast of the Strip. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. % 702-363-1921. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. Just off the glittering Strip. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. % 702-798-5595. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. Showmanship.95 for seniors and students. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. 10 AM to 5 PM.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. 9 AM to 9 PM. Ham Concert Hall. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. is the Liberace Museum. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. Yes. 1 PM to 5 PM. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. 8 AM to 5 PM. faculty and invited artists. giant. $3. The tax-deductible admission is $6. features work by students. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. Dedicated to Mr. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. but no less extravagant. The museum is open Monday through Friday. % 702-895-3381. % 702-895-3893. 4505 South Maryland Parkway.50 for seniors. Admission is $4.95 for adults. Sunday.95 for adults. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. call % 702-895-3801.
With structures dating back to 1864. later during summer months. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. petting zoo. Back on US 95. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. (See below. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer.) The best time to take the 13-mile. the road to Mt. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. 7 AM to dusk. Today there is a restaurant.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. one-way loop drive is early morning. under Adventures on Foot. % 702-875-4141. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . wife of a German munitions tycoon. % 702-875-4191. 8 AM to 5 PM. trail rides and a “real” Western town. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. 5 PM in the winter. Charleston. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. % 702-486-5413. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. The restaurant and bar are open daily. saloon. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. The park is open daily. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. 8 AM to sunset. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. 8 AM to 11 PM. The park is open daily. The admission is $5 per vehicle. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. Admission is $4. The park is open daily. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. have been unearthed here.
Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. % 702385-2SKI. % 702-646-3401. elevation 11. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. In the winter. At the northern edge of the reservation. (See below. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. and its 1. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. % 702-872-7098. 2 Kyle Canyon Road.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. Bighorn sheep. completing the Mt. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. (See below. under On Wheels. see below under On Snow. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. the Mt. under Camping. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. (See below.918 feet. Charleston Hotel. Charleston Loop.) .) After the hike.) Pitch a tent. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. may be spotted near water sources during the summer.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. under Adventures and Camping. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. Charleston Lodge.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. desolate valley. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. % 702-872-5500. under On Foot. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. 17-mile. (See below. Nevada’s state animal.000 vertical feet of runs. The 1. % 702-872-5408.
% 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines.
% 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-331-1212 Budget. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-346-4222 Americar.
About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. 711 East Desert Inn Road. % 800-332-5333. NV 89109. % 702-455-7955. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport.50 for adults. 1830 South Boulder Highway. On the north side of Boulder City. The museum is open daily. Gray Line Tours. % 702-735-1616. Call % 800USA-RAIL. $1 for seniors and children under 16. 3150 Paradise Road. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. .000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. 444 Hotel Plaza. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. NV 89109. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. Did it work? Judge for yourself. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. % 702-294-1888. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. stopping downtown. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. Admission is $1. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated.
500 South Boulder Highway. and 45 feet thick at the top. % 702-293-8907. or the Boulder City Visitors Center.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. swimming. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. The cost is $5 for adults. All of 726 feet high. for information on camping. Phoenix and Los Angeles. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center.) Be sure to heed the . Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. head back toward Boulder City. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. % 702-293-2034. $2. 89105. (See On Water below. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. Hoover also created Lake Mead.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. boating and diving. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. % 702-565-8591. Children under 10 are free. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. 660 thick at the base. Las Vegans. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. 89005. Hoover Dam took 5. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. fishing. 100 Nevada Highway. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West.
50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. Go straight to reach Henderson. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. . It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. Beyond here. which rests on the Virgin River. Back on Nevada 167. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. The displays in the visitor center. % 702-293-6180. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. explain the geology and forces of erosion. Just beyond the bay. From the visitor center. nearly five miles off the highway. a public swimming and boating area. % 702-397-2088. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. thank you. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery.
constructed his Riverside Casino. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. relives those days. on Lake Mojave. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. in Bullhead City. % 520-754-4606. campground and fishing and swimming spots. 9 AM to 5 PM. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. % 520-754-3272. % 702-297-1464. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. South of here is camping. Arizona. bar and bait shop.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. % 520-754-3399. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. Nevada’s record-high temperature. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. 9 AM to 1 PM.000 visitors a month. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. 355 Highway 95. Saturday. The museum is open Monday through Friday. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. East of Searchlight 14 miles. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. Admission is a $1 donation. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. % 520-754-3628. see below. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. the town was a gold. % 702-297-1682.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. Named for a brand of matches. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. 200 Michael Wendoll Way.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. % 800-46-4584 . (For details on all three. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. with motel. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. under Adventures. 125°. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. a campground and marina.
host- . % 702-876-3380. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. as many as 6. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise.Special Events n 35 Reno Air.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. % 800-331-1212 Budget. May is the busiest month. % 800-736-6247 United Express. % 310-448-1822. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. In Laughlin. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. % 702-798-6405. Special Events February In February. % 800-227-5245. 1555 South Casino Drive. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. % 800-227-5254. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. % 800-325-8007 Hertz.
% 702-4541212. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. % 702-386-3926. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. Navaho and Mojave peoples. October Art in the Park. Another balloon festival. August In August.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. . take place in Boulder City. the International Black Heritage Festival. % 702-870-1221. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. takes place in Vegas. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. % 800-227-5245. the Parade of Lights. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. to the campus of UNLV. % 702-293-4857. and the National Finals Rodeo. the Las Vegas Classic. % 702-452-8066. a confluence of Southern Paiute. % 702-293-1611. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. to the waters of Lake Mead. % 702687-5777. % 800-637-1006. floats into Laughlin. % 702-898-6565. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. % 702-457-2797. also takes place in October. % 702-457-5775. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. a three-day balloon rally. blows in. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-293-2034. % 702-2939256. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. Later in the month. % 702-631-7000. to town. % 702-8953900. to downtown. % 702434-0848.
while nearby Cloud Tower (5. At the end of a 90-minute approach. At nearby Willow Springs.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. Utah. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.11b).9). To the west.11).9) has 1. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. Crimson Chrysalis (5. Sheep Trail (5. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.12a). is to mountain bikers.11). that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. in fact. Stratocaster (5.11). but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. Red Rock attracts free climbers.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. Graveyard Waltz (5. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. so take extra precautions when adventuring here.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels.11+). run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. especially in winter months. Other routes in- . Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. Chicken Eruptus (5. so chalk often stays put for months. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5.8). Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. The Choad Warrior (5.11d) offers more advanced routes.
. to savor the 300-mile views.000 feet. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles.000 feet. toward a ridge at 11. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment.918 feet. Rainbow Buttress (5. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. Following the fork. About seven miles from the visitor center.10 or 5. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. See Outfitters. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. elevation 11. At the aforementioned fork. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. page 41. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. 17 miles round-trip. & For more information. The 3. The South Loop Trail. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. The trail switchbacks time and again. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak.6). The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. gaining 3. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. an easy six-mile round-trip.12).000 feet in four miles.8) and Eagle Dance (5. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. Chockstone Press. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. consult the Bible of local climbers. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. ending at a small dam and the spring. published by the American Alpine Club. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine.
the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. Beginning on a dirt road. . or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. Mountain T Ranch. thunderstorms and snow. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. At lower elevations. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls.000 feet into the northeastern sky. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon.000 feet above the desert. the trail climbs 1. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10.000 feet to a saddle. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers.4 miles. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. Never take these altitudes lightly. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. For trail information and weather and safety updates. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. gaining 1. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. To the northwest. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. covering two miles and gaining 1. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. contact the US Forest Service. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south.
% 702-364-8687.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. then go northwest to another plateau. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard.2 miles. 89124.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. Las Vegas 89117. climb a gully to reach a ridge. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. and park at the end of the road. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. % 702-223-2176. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. Stay below the northern peaks. which is marked by a post. . PO Box 1. heading for the northernmost outcropping. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. % 888-86ROCKY. Climb northward up the slope. go 6. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Las Vegas. Bruce Grubbs.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. 89180. Just south of this outcrop. turn right. Suite 4. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. ascending northwest. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. 89137. Falcon Press Publishing. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. HCR 33. PO Box 80875. % 702-254-5604. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. Las Vegas. PO Box 371324. Rocky Trails. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. outlines the easiest route. % 702-434-3388. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. Sports & Adventure Tours. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. % 702-596-2953. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin.
can arrange a covered wagon trip. At mile post 17. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. Hahn’s World of Surplus. % 702-458-8870. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. Wagons West. % 702362-7177. however. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard.6 mile to a dirt road. Desert Rock Sports. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. 617 Hoover Avenue. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . % 702387-2457. Las Vegas.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. % 702-798-6565. Armed . 89132. % 702-252-7114. % 702-649-6819. Cowboy Trail Rides. Desert Outfitting. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. % 702-2567433. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. Silver State Old West Tours. 4065 East Patrick Lane. % 702-383-0838. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. Peak Sports. % 702-254-1143. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. % 702-875-1978. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. PO Box 19210.
Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. PO Box 26589. For a more challenging excursion. Go left here. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. % 702-647-5000. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. a six-mile loop. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. scanning for a cairn on the left. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. At the road. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. Head downhill. before heading out. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. Las Vegas. A double track soon appears on the right.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). flying downhill and then up to another road. heading uphill. 4765 Vegas Drive. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. go to the next intersection. After beginning another climb. Take this until you reach a double track. turn right. and pump uphill. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. For a tamer road trip. Turn right. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. NV 89126. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. zoom downhill to the fork. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. . turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. Turn right. contact the Bureau of Land Management. turn left to another intersection and turn right. make a quick right and head downhill. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead.
% 702-8978287. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. % 702-252-8077. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. Escape the City Streets. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. Turn left to return to US 15. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. Downhill Bicycle Tours. % 702-642-2453. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. the byway forks. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. 16 Cottonwood Drive. % 702-646-3401. 7934 Cadenza Lane. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. Ski Chalet. % 702-451-9586. % 702-876-8687. Las Vegas Bikes USA. % 702-596-2953. R&R Cycling. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. . One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. At about the 10-mile mark. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area.
% 888-REELRIO. 4765 West Vegas Drive. % 702-454-5555. Old West Territory Tours. crystal-clear hotel pool. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. 2810 South Highland Drive. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. Las Vegas. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. % 702-796-9355. maps and more information on backcountry byways. It begins. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. 8 AM to 11 AM. For details. Rebel Adventure Tours. 3700 Flamingo Road. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. 713 East Ogden Street. is on the premises. . Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. an avid angler for more than 50 years. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. of all places. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. % 702-380-6969. 89101. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. Suite B. % 702-646-8800.
The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. Off Nevada 167. % 800-2555561. about three miles across at its widest point. (See below. under Boating Outfitters. powerboats and cruisers. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. peregrine falcons and even flamingos.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. offering professional advice. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). Boulder Beach. and two. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2.to three-days notice is required. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. Thomas. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. jet skiing. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot.500-acre ranch in Utah. For details. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). . The expert staff is available seven days a week. % 800-34-SCUBA. water skiing. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). meals and overnight lodging for $449. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Forever Resorts. flows into Lake Mead. rents houseboats. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. largemouth bass and trout. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. instruction and gear. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers.) Swimming.
% 702-252-7114. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. 89102. Las Vegas. offers trips from January through November. is the local fishing and boating hub. Return transportation is provided by bus. Near Laughlin. The cost is about $65 per person. % 800-696-RAFT. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. Lake Mead Cruises. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. PO Box 61235. 89006. % 702-565-8958. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. Lake Mojave Farther south. % 702-2931190. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. 89006. . the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. % 702-754-3245. PO Box 100. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. Calville Bay Resort. particularly near cliffs. % 702-293-6180. PO Box 62465. 89124. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. HCR 30. Las Vegas. 322 Lake Shore Road. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company.
89040. Clearwater Flyfishing. Bullhead City. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Fiesta Queen Cruises. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. 4290 Boulder Highway. % 702-459-2080. PO Box 29279. AZ. PO Box 29279. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 89029. 89028. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. . % 800-228-9825. % 702297-1464. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. 1450 Newberry Drive. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. % 702-388-1022. % 702-5659111. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Laughlin. % 702-437-9283. Overton. Laughlin River Tours. Overton. 89040. Overton Beach Marina. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. % 702-452-8299. % 702-433-3263. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. Tom’s Water Skiing. 520-758-6242. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. % 702-564-5660. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702565-0696.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. % 702-3944000. Sunset Bait & Tackle.
% 702-871-1399. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. % 702-565-8396. . check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. With commercial balloon tours. Even more memorable. % 702-564-1558. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. however. Hackett Bungy. Arizona and Zion. 3800. ext. A jump is $59.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. % 702-434-0848. Saturday until midnight. 1500 Palomino Drive. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. 68 Mallory Road. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. 161 East Rancho Drive. noon to 9 PM. % 702-385-4321. Henderson Bill Spellman. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. HB Fishing Guide Service. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. % 702-451-4004. Karen Jones. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. complete with guided ground tours and meals. The company claims more than 500. Utah. $20 for each additional jump on the same day.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. 810 Circus Circus Drive. citing growing noise problems. Jim Goff. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. % 702-5657583.J.
Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . 3275 Rosanna Street. 806 Buchanan Street.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Las Vegas Airlines. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. Skydive Las Vegas. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. 200 Convention Center Drive. NV 89019. PO Box 19629. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. Jean. #115-200. % 702-736-0013.com. Sundance Helicopters. 89005. Air Vegas Airlines. % 702-293-1860. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. 241 East Reno Avenue.ultimateballoonadven. Scenic Airlines. Boulder City. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. % 702-385-2SKI. King Airelines. Set at a base elevation of 8. % 800-634-6851.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. % 800-634-6377. Heli USA. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. % 800-255-7474. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. D&R Balloons. Las Vegas. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. NV 89117. % 800-216-8330. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. % 800-535-4448. 2705 Airport Drive. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. Eagle Canyon Airlines. Las Vegas. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. % 800-359-8727. % 702-221-9199. Web site www. 89109. % 800-446-4584. 806 Buchanan Street. % 702-877-1010. Jean Airport.
be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. For more serious snow. % 702-646-0008. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. even behemoths like the 5. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel.000 techies to Sin City. are booked solid on weekends. % 800-272-7426.000 visitors. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. The place was once part-owned by in- . % 702-385-1664. luring 200. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. But somehow. over 100. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. All they do is take up space. $-$$. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. it seems.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. Above all. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. 18 East Fremont Street. 600 East Fremont Street. % 702-385-5200. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. 2395 North Rancho Road. if possible. After all. HO TE L Many hotels. $-$$$. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town.000-room MGM Grand. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931.
the Flamingo. % 702-386-2110. however. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. $$$-$$$$. $$-$$$. dominate the Strip. The Mirage. New York is out there. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. Down the street. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. New York. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. South of here. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. The Golden Nugget. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. New York. $$-$$$$. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. Caesars Palace. the MGM Grand. % 702-385-7111. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-732-5111. the young upstarts. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. $$-$$$$. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. across from the Fashion Show Mall. % 702-740-NYNY. 1 Main Street. % 702-791-7171. $$-$$$$. Monte Carlo. % 702-894-7111. The faux volcano. The Four Queens. $-$$. and New York. $$-$$$$. 129 East Fremont Street. % 702-740-NYNY. % 702-731-7110. $$$$$. % 702-385-4011. who built the first casino resort. 3000 Paradise Road. If staring at wealth is your thing. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. The movie Rainman was shot here. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. $$-$$$$.037 rooms. Even by Vegas standards. % 702-3821600. 202 East Fremont Street. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. 128 East Fremont Street. has 1. Next door is the Island’s big sister. Across the street is the green giant. $-$$. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . way out there. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. is a crowd-pleaser. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe.
% 702-872-5500. three Motel 6s. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. On the outskirts of Vegas. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. which eliminates Reno. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower.000 visitors a month and climbing. TIP Laughlin For the most part. Bonnie Springs Motel. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. % 702-875-4400. $$-$$$$. $-$$$.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. $-$$. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. Charleston Resort. while Bellagio will boast 3. % 702-262-4555. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter.500 rooms.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. % 800-634-3988. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. % 702-735-1616.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. too. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. positively sedate with its 5. contact the Chamber of Commerce. % 702-872-5408. set at 7. the Mt. but don’t count on that for long. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. At this book goes to press.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. Charleston Hotel. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. $$-$$$$. contrary to popular belief. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. . has 2. In the Spring Mountains.000.
% 702-733-3111. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. % 702-385-4011. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. 2900 South Casino Drive. Emeril’s. % 702-298-4200. % 702-891-7337. and Harrah’s.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. On the Strip. and Gatsby’s. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. Nearby. Downtown at the Four Queens. After a few meals at most of these troughs. opened in 1990. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. $-$$. in the Las Vegas Hilton. 2000 South Casino Drive. both at the MGM Grand. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. % 702-732-5111. offers 2. Eurasian mélange. % 702-298-4600. 1650 Casino Drive. % 702-891-7374. 401 South 6th Street. while the Golden Nugget. % 702-298-5111. while the Colorado Belle. % 702-298-7111. 202 Fremont Street. The Edgewater. the Flamingo Hilton. 1350 East Flamingo Road. has 1. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. % 702-298-4000. sports a railroad theme.000 rooms. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. 1900 South Casino Drive. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. $-$$$. The Ramada Express. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. Off the main drags. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. 2300 South Casino Drive. % 702-3807711. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. An excellent buffet. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. however. $$$$. classy Hugo’s Cellar. % 702-252-7777. Andre’s. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. % 702-298-2453. Café Michelle. % 702-385-5016. 2121 South Casino Drive. $-$$$. $-$$. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Andiamo. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. $-$$$. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. To really dine UPtown. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. 2100 South Casino Drive. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. and very expensive. 3700 West Flamingo Road. $-$$. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-298-2535. At the Flamingo Hilton. % 702735-8686. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. serves upscale Italian fare. % 702-298-2214.500 rooms. Hamada.
% 702-384-4470. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. For satisfying American favorites. For information. Fong’s. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. % 702733-8899. All five campgrounds have piped water. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. Kyle Canyon. % 702-363-1921. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. 308 West Sahara Avenue. Suite Z. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. while moderately pricey. Phillip’s Supper House. % 702-873-5222. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks.000 and 8. 3900 Paradise Road. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. % 702-693-5000. % 702-2984600. The Green Shack. 2504 East Fremont. % 702-383-0007. Chicken is the house specialty. as the name implies. 4455 Paradise Road. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. % 702-382-1644. serves fine steaks and seafood. so be prepared for extreme weather. Near the end of Nevada 157. seven days a week. although the Lodge. call % 702-873-8800. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. . having opened in 1932. Chin’s. is the oldest restaurant in the city. % 702-298-2242. The elevation here ranges between 7. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. in the shadow of Mt. % 702-794-0700. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. serves hip. is the most popular Chinese place in town. For a Latin taste. 4545 West Sahara Avenue.400 feet. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. which. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. Charleston.
On the north shore. Moving north from Boulder City. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. For information on all five locations. Calville Bay has 80 sites. For information. Las Vegas Territory . Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. north of town on Lake Mojave. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. % 520-754-3272.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. % 702-397-2088. % 520-7544606. Across the river from the Strip. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. In Valley of Fire State Park. call % 702-646-3401. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. there’s Boulder Beach. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. To the east of Vegas. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. On the Virgin River to the north.
the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. and for good reason. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. Reno. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all.000 feet. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. With a surface elevation of more than 7. Rose resorts. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. the city of Reno is the . The Truckee River. Las Vegas. just east of the California-Nevada border. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. the largest alpine lake in North America. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. Heavenly and Mt. At the heart of this region. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. Of course. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. In the winter.
while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. Pyramid Lake. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. . About 30 miles north of Reno. Today this mirage-come-true. Farther south. Farther east of Carson City. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. where everyone expects Ben. North of Pyramid Lake. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. on the shores of Washoe Lake. an ancient.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. The place dates back to 1851. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. 8. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. meanwhile. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. Just south of Carson City. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. Washoe Lake State Park.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. The Carson River. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. are walks back in time. which meanders – sometimes wet. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. Fort Churchill.
Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. North Virginia Street. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. H. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. From Reno. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. In 1863. In 1852. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. for a schedule. % 800-FOR-RENO. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. Like Vegas. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. and in 1859 C. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. the city continues to grow rapidly. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge.H. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. there isn’t a glass pyramid. From Carson City. which hosts special events in warmer months. or at least slow. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could.W. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. From here. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. No. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake.
From a historical point of view. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. this is it.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. . Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931.
situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. % 702-788-3773. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. % 702-7855961. boasts three treasures. the campus of the University of Nevada. 1502 North Washington Street. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. 1650 North Virginia Street. The Nevada Historical Society. Reno-Tahoe Territory . is also located here. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. Fleischmann Planetarium. has been at that location since 1946. The staff welcomes visitors daily.) The Wilbur D. About 10 minutes north of the university. is a well-known. turn right. % 702-784-4528. but call first for hours. May Museum and Arboretum. April through October. 1265 Deerlodge Road. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. (See below under On Foot. 10 South Lake Street. houses one of the world’s best collections. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. On the suburban south side of Reno.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. 300 North Center Street. And the Keck Minerals Museum. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. % 702-334-2600. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. Animal Ark Nature Center. % 702-688-1190. To get there. the National Automobile Museum. On the northern outskirts of the city. houses a theater and telescope. % 702-969-3111. % 702784-4812. including black bears and kit foxes. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. % 702-333-9300. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. a nifty historical theme park. On the north side of the city. Great Basin Adventure. When arms get tired. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers.
% 800-367-2277. K-T Services. % 800-CAR-RENT. % 800-231-2222. % 800-527-0700. % 800-225-2525. % 800-221-1212. % 800-241-6522. Greyhound Lines. % 800-426-7000.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 702-882-3375. % 800-435-9792. TWA. America West Airlines. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. National. % 800-654-3131. % 800-654-7037. Hertz. Avis. % 800-359-2472. Enterprise. Delta Connection-Sky West. Southwest Airlines. Delta Air Lines. % 800-800-4000. % 800-453-9417. TriStar Airlines. % 800-331-1212. United Airlines. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. Budget. Alaska Airlines. If you don’t have a car. Reno Air. % 800-235-9292. % 800-221-2000. Dollar. % 800-4-SHUTTL. % 800-325-8007. . Lloyd’s International. Northwest Airlines. % 800-736-6247. Canadian Airlines. % 800-218-8777. Airlines Air 21. Thrifty. % 702-328-6400. No Stress Express.
At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. At press time. a marvelous intermingling of water. NV 89505. NV 89502.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. 405 Marsh Avenue. All told. is a study in contrast. 4590 South Virginia Street. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. but the future of the Basin itself. respectively. the waters are now finding friends in high places. % 702-686-3030. control erosion and acquire open land. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. Reno. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. provides an interesting mix of adventures. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. 98 Colony Road. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. local. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. % 800-FOR-RENO. rock. In reality. year-round outdoor playgrounds. Fortunately. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. trees and sky. restore forest and watersheds. Reno. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. in his journal Roughing It. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. % 702-329-2936. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. In 1861. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. Admission is $8. Reno-Tahoe Territory . is a welcome respite.50 for kids. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. (See below. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. at 10. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking.776 feet. open May through November. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. % 702-849-2511. Viewed from the highway. stands out amid the pines. Three miles south of Incline Village. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. along the eastern shoreline. called Diver’s Cove. with its full slate of running water. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. After the buzz of the ranch. The beaches are open daily.) Up the twisting NV 431. % 702-831-0691. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. But in between them. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. % 702-831-0494. $5. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. is well-known to snorkelers. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. restrooms and picnic areas. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. The park. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. The north end of the beach. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. under On Foot. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side.50 for adults.
Sailing. This is the home port of the Dixie II. under On Snow).) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. PO Box 16299. PO Box 7139. 96151. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. horseback riding.) For the unmechanized. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. CA. condos. (See below. Stateline. South Lake Tahoe. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority.250 feet in five minutes. restaurants. (See below. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. % 702588-3000. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. NV 89449. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. May through November. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. $6 per child. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . a nature trail circles the lake. under On Snow. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. % 800-AT-TAHOE. under Adventures and Accommodations. Every summer. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. offices and shops. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. then into the broad Washoe Valley. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore.50 per adult. % 916-583-9048. The price for such sloth is $10. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. % 702-588-4591.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. canoeing. Booming in the winter (see below. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. also offers excursions. The day-use fee is $5. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. For information. At Tahoe Village. % 702588-3508.
% 702-687-4319. and on weekends between May and October. Washoe Lake covers about 3. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. camping and hiking (see below. the mansion and all its furnishings. About 30 miles south of Reno. (See below. was hit a year later in Virginia City. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. 1851. windsurfing. In November. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. a hunt that lasted 20 years.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. Bowers Mansion County Park. one mile south of Washoe City. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. 87 and 98). the boom rolled in at full throttle. Bowers Mansion.000 acres. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. The park’s centerpiece. The original owners. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. pages 83. Washoe Lake. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. under Adventures. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country.” On Halloween in 1864. the world’s largest silver strike. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. % 702-849-0201. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. eventually lost their silver fortune. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. During the wet season. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. When the Comstock Lode. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. About 15 miles south of Reno. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. off NV 429. Camping. US 395 slides southwest. site of Washoe Lake State Park. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. boating.
Located in the Carson City Mint building. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. in fact. Admission is $3. 100 Stewart Street. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. It’s so open. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. % 702-884-3450.” In fact. 101 North Carson Street. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. % 702-687-5160. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. The library contains the original state constitution. % 702-687-4810. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. Headquartered in nearby Minden. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. Just east of the Capitol. The Capitol Building & Museum. the Capitol is open daily.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. exhibits of native fauna. yearround. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. . that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. Unlike most Western capitals. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. excepting state holidays. % 702687-5030. which was opened in 1886. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. the Nevada State Library & Archives. Call for schedules and pick-up points. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. Open Monday through Friday. 600 North Carson Street.
Samuel. 302 South Carson Street. Admission is $2. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). train rides are extra. % 702-687-6953. Charles-Muller Hotel. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. That classic journal. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. % 702-826-2766. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 5366 Snyder Avenue. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. 502 North Division Street. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. 2180 South Carson Street. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The Stewart Indian Museum. % 702-883-1976. On the suburban south side of Carson City. % 702-884-2226. The St. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. 1536 South Carson Street. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. books and permits for the surrounding area. $2 for kids. The Orion Clemens House. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . and Bender House (1874). Roughing It. The building now houses a live theater. Bliss Mansion. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. 813 North Carson Street. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. % 702-887-2174. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. The Roberts House Museum. % 702-882-1808. The museum is filled with period furniture. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. Admission is $2. was named for its original occupant. The staff can provide trail maps. the Carson City Brewing Company. Admission is $4 for adults. Two blocks north. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery.50. 1207 North Carson Street. The office is closed Sundays. 448 West King Street.
The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. The roots go back to 1851. 3. 2001 Foothill Road. % 702-782-8155. Across the street. Genoa Bar. Daily admission is $12. saunas. Up the street. weight room and tennis courts year-round. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. The place saw Nevada’s first house. California. Before the school closed in 1980. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. Guests can enjoy the water. the first permanent white settlement in the state.000 students had walked its halls. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. opened in 1863. 1900 South Carson Street.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. to Genoa. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. May through October. May through October. . About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. NV 89701. The museum is open daily. now long gone. at the foot of the Carson Range. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. first opened to tourists in 1862. lies Genoa. As of presstime. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. % 702-687-7410. Carson City. where he is buried. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. Walley’s. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. % 702-782-4325. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse.
the highway hits Topaz Lake. The otherwise barren hills. circus items. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. a 1. about eight miles south of Carson City. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. Gardnerville in 1879. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. which climbs up a narrow. of all places. and their ghosts still walk this landscape.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. valleys. % 702-782-3133. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. Virginia City. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. % 702-782-2555.200acre beauty set at 5. Finally. Just down US 395. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. Beyond NV 341. Leaving Carson City. and their spirit built the Silver State. Housed in the 1915 high school building. 1440 Highway 395. resting precariously . about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. boxing memorabilia. Minden was founded in 1904. About three miles south of Gardnerville. % 702-266-3343. their sweat. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. including Western art and portraiture. Their riches. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. where it intersects with NV 341. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. 1477 Highway 395. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. In Gardnerville.
from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. . The building is open daily. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. is a looming. % 702-847-0757. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. Admission prices range from donations to $3. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. The Marshall Mint Museum. Admission is $3.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. Today. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. Not recommended for claustrophobes. Here. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. underground mine tours. leave regularly.000 a ton in silver. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM.000 lived in Virginia City. Up C Street. At the south end of town. more than 15. The Comstock Lode had been struck. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. and within four years. % 702847-0975. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. % 702-847-0777. May through October.
Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. % 702-8470333. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. After she was murdered in 1867. 3. complete with ornate chandeliers. Admission is $2. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. % 702-8470830. % 702-847-9394. % 702-847-0525. % 702-847-0766. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. has a more eclectic collection. The headstones and gravesites. is open daily. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. Finally. The Way It Was Museum. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. a room in the basement of a saloon. lives on in two buildings. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. for a ride into yesterday. The Mark Twain Museum. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House.50. including an old jukebox and player pianos. Reno-Tahoe Territory . here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. June through October. Mark Twain’s Memories. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. is definitely not for the puritan. Admission is $2. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. windswept plateau. % 702847-0275. Open daily. % 702-847-0454. The memory of Samuel Clemens. Its extravagant interior. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small.
number about 30. little more than a few walls remain. % 702-847-0311. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. appears in Palomino Valley. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. wild horses. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. There is also a developed campground. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. Past the intersection with NV 431.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. including Odeon Hall. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. The Byway’s terminus. then exit at NV 445. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. Today. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. After about eight miles. % 702-577-2345. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. % 702-673-1150. or mustangs. After another 20 miles. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone.
Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans.182 feet) to the west. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground.000 BC. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. If losing yourself is your goal. this is the place to do it – unless. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. From Nixon. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. Tribe members administer recreation activities. continues to surround the lake. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . of course. Fremont. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. A reservation was formalized in 1874. according to artifacts found in local caves. or dry lake bed. boat ramp. thus christening the 27-mile-long. Today. boating and fishing are extra. campground. Nearby. Another 25 miles north via paved. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. Spreading north and east. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. store and museum. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. the road passes Wino. They will provide directions and hours of operation. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. Just north of the marina. site of the ranger station. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. % 702-476-1156. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. % 702-547-0187. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. nine-mile-wide watering hole. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. the world’s largest playa. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. Camping. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. since at least 9. selling permits and running fish hatcheries.
Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. Again. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. A shovel. preparedness is imperative. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. on 575. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. . food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. and carry enough water. Besides antelope. % 503-947-3315. birds of prey. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. tow chain. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. about one mile south of NV 140. Help can be a long way away. caution and common sense are key to traveling. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. even with one. TAKE CARE In this region. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. spare tire. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. songbirds.
bills itself as the “Wildest. % 702-588-6211. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. Carson Valley Days. % 702-829-1955. is a rip-snortin’ affair. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. a rolling custom car show. % 702-882-1283. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. In Reno. Night Curves. % 702-882-1808. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. % 702-847-7500. % 702-588-9658. % 702-883-1352. % 702-687-7410. % 702-782-2444.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. % 702-882-1802. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. is held in Sparks. with food. % 702-782-2211. heats up. % 702-329-7469. the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-329-3877. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. water. In Gardnerville. Richest Rodeo in the West. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. The Way It Was Rodeo. % 702-353-2291. % 702-847-0311. In Carson City. In Virginia City. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. % 800-FOR-RENO. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. % 702-265-5281. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. Reno also . a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts.
brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. % 800-535-3045. % 702-329-7469. takes place in Carson City. % 702-827-7603. gather in Minden. attracts American Indians from many Western states. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-885-6939. % 702-972-6663. % 702-847-0311. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. deconstructionist Woodstock. and the National Championship Air Races.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. % 702-826-1181. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. In the skies. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. % 702-832-1606. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. The Great Italian Festival. In Incline Village. the Native American Snow Dance. and the Nevada Day Parade. % 702-782-9711. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. come to Virginia City along with a parade. % 702-688-5767. . the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. is held in Reno. On the Black Rock Desert. the Nevada State Fair. Street Vibrations. a sort of post-modern. % 702-786-5700. % 702-329-1476. the notorious Burning Man Festival. % 702-882-1565.
After crossing Galena Creek. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. There are more than 20 routes. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. 1994. Farther south. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10.12a opportunities. all 5.11a and 5. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. Overhangs present experts with 5. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. whips around a peak.11c and heavier. however.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. are more chilling than the mountain air. Falcon Press Publishing. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. so dress appropriately. including Jello Wars (5. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. There are 10 routes.000 feet.11d) and Slayer (5. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. then climbs to a saddle. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. At the five-mile mark.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. including Asylum (5. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. .11a). The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles.14a).
and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. Hours are seasonal. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. as are group tours. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. % 702-6881893. climbing 3. NV 431. offers a beautiful willow. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. elevation 8. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left.300 feet in just six miles. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. so call first. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road.260 feet. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. . After another mile. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. The trail ends at a highway. Customized walking and driving tours are also available.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. This hike is certainly strenuous. The charge for adults is $12. % 702-847-WALK. Since the slide. including great blue herons and birds of prey. for children $5.
a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. For more information. as are 7. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. Yellow Hills East. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. Stevens Camp. contact the BLM. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. To reach the trailhead. The trail. As this is being written. For travel information. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. For more information. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. great horned owls and other birds of prey. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Oakland. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. CA 94620. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. . about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. Mahogany Mountain. % 916-279-6101. write them at PO Box 20991. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. Madras. is a good overnight point. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. OR 97441. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. From here.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. For road conditions and closures. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15.
Outdoor Adventures. NV 89436. % 702-626-6916. 3335 Vista Boulevard. 1135 Terminal Way. Reno. 8550 White Fir Street. % 702-333-6795. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. On the east side of the reservoir. 20 Daylily Court. Look for the Knott Creek sign. A steep. to the soaring summit at 9. Silver State Outfitters.200 lung-burning feet. % 702-746-6878. NV 89450. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. backpackers and photographers. 490 Kietzke Lane. PO Box 6145. % 702-623-1500. Denio Junction. % 702-851-1924. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. #111. terminus of the fairly flat. % 702-832-5231. Incline Village. but they might also offer their services to hikers. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. NV 89511. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. NV 89502. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. Patagonia Outlet. gaining 2. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. The lakes. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. Sparks. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. jogs through alpine meadows. Bighorn Outfitting. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. .397 feet. Reno. % 702-322-9559. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. Nevada Guide Service. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead.
leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. Twin City Surplus. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702-323-5630. After about three miles. In the highlands near Mount Rose. Sierra Mountaineer. % 702884-3453. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . 4375 South Carson Street. % 702588-5664. Zephyr Cove Stables.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. Near Washoe Lake State Park. contact Tin Cup Adventures. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. % 702-3584824. Sporting Rage. Sierra Spirit Ranch. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. % 702-849-0570. call first for availability and directions. 4339 South Carson Street. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. 1675 East 4th Street. % 702-849-1020. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. and offers picnic rides. 1201 Highway 395. % 702782-7011. 1941 North Carson Street. In all four cases. the trail makes a high-altitude. % 702-885-7773. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. 155 East Moana Lane. offers ranch day trips. % 702-8252855. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. which parallels North Canyon Creek. % 702-8827779.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. also rents horses. Vogl Trek USA. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. % 702-831-5465. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. % 702-849-9651. Strictly Scuba & More. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays.
depending on point of view. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. The half-paved. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. % 916-279-6101. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. Put simply. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. % 702-831-0494.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. 84 miles back to Gerlach. From here. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. To complete the loop. to Vya. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). don’t screw it up. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. . For detailed maps. or ends. north of Pyramid Lake. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. Continuing northwest on NV 447. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road.
% 702-825-8258. % 702-747-1413. 1993. Reno Schwinn. also known as NV 206. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. south of Carson City. Falcon Press Publishing. 89502. Great Basin Bicycles. . along with Canada geese in fall. 4135 South Virginia Street. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. winter and spring. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. % 702883-3210. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. 235 East Plumb Lane. 89532.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. % 702827-3277. 1999 South Virginia Street. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89509. 89701. 3450 Lakeside Drive. Bike Brothers. % 702786-5111. & According to Jeanne L. 89701. 89502. 500 North Carson Street. For more information. % 702-3226001. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. 1987 North Carson Street. 89502. % 702826-0800. % 702-8871333. 89502. Bicycle Warehouse. call % 702-688-1500. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. 1200 South Wells Avenue. Excell Skates.
On the Nevada side. Nevada. % 702782-0867. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. six miles south of Gardnerville. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. 1685 Highway 395 South. rents powerboats. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. Entrance fee is $3 per car. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. 89423. California. cutthroat and rainbows. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. offers 1. via NV 88 and CA 89. which can take up to seven hours. personal water craft and kayaks. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. red-tailed hawks. kingfishers. % 702-588-3369. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. 625 Fairview Drive. During spring and early summer. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. % 702-8825007. 89701. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. . the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. Contact the US Forest Service. coyotes. PO Box 3007. turkey vultures. Spooner Lake. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. canoes. 89450. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. The trip.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L.
catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. with campground and restrooms. Idlewilde Park. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. two to three miles up a steep trail. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. For directions. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. For the stalwart anglers. There are two boat ramps. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. both on the eastern shore. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. only a mile west of downtown. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. % 702-6874319. water levels. and charges a launching fee. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. although . is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. A better option might be Ophir Creek. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. catfish and trout. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. Washoe Lake State Park. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. However. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. For moving-water anglers. % 702-688-1500. are regularly stocked with rainbows. but in wet years. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. For more adventurous angling. The smaller. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. thanks to Sierra runoff. planting and licensing information. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over.
Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. used to separate gold and silver from ore. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. while rainbow.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. however. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. In his book. under Outfitters. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. More than 100 years later. crappie and perch. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. see below. Come prepared. Rainbow. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. the setting here is primative. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. boasts a handful of isolated spots. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. a health advisory is still in effect. There are two boat ramps on the lake. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. % 702-688-1500. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. . For more information. Boats with outboards are permitted. Camping is primitive. The reservoir is located on private land. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. Nevada Angler’s Guide.
the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West.440 vertical feet of runs. Zephyr Cove. Stateline. NV 89449.260 feet.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Snowboarders are welcome. NV 89502. With a base elevation of 8. % 702-827-0600. 155 East Moana Lane. equally divided among novice. NV 89431. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. Sparks. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. The Gilly.. % 916-546-4444. PO Box 10225. 96145. Don’s Fishing Charters. Reno. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. rentals and a shuttle bus. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. % 702-358-6113. NV 89448. 89502. Mount Rose also offers lessons. % 702-322-9559. intermediate and advanced. Tahoe City. PO Box 6506. % 702-825-2855. 294 East Moana Lane. Zephyr Cove. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. % 916573-0753. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. PO Box 815. % 916-541-5448. Reno. . CA. Tahoe Topliners. PO Box 1909. % 702-588-4916. Reno Fly Shop. NV 89502. NV 89448. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. 490 Kietzke Lane.
9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. lesson. the greatest acreage (4. which include a pass. trail pass) is $34.000 feet above sea level. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. lessons. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. Snowboarders are welcome. lesson.800) and the highest top elevation (10. a new gondola and the famous tram. not to mention great views of the lake. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. 89451. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. and rental. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. rentals. 1210 Ski Way. Lessons. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. with the longest vertical drop (3. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. Heavenly. This is a monster of a mountain. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. day tours and amateur races. $8 after 3 PM). For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). NV. . % 702-749-5349. Incline Village. six surface lifts.500 feet). % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. Heavenly has 18 chairs. % 702-7823047. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. Diamond Peak. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. all-terrain skis. rentals. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. skate skis. % 702-831-8361. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. Lessons.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. and/or snowshoes.000 to 9. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays.840 feet. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. For cross-country fans. Spooner Lake Cross-Country.
% 916-544-1221. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 89502. Snowind Sports. 89451. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. 89423. % 702-3226001. Serva Ski. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Galena Ski Rentals. 321 Sky Way. % 702-849-0111. % 702-831-3537. Mogul Mouse. 89502. 515 East Moana Lane. In Reno. % 702-588-5935. 2500 East 2nd Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. 1685 Highway 395 South. % 702-358-4824. C&J Flight Aviation.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. 89502. 89502. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. Bobo’s Ski Shop. % 702-3239463. % 702782-0867. 235 East Plumb Lane. % 702786-5111. of- . Sundance Ski Company. % 702831-3500. PO Box 19215. 89451. 2615 Mill Street. Sierra Mountaineer. 89502. 89502. % 702-831-2922. South Lake Tahoe. % 702-8269096. Excell Skates.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. 89502. Stateline House of Ski. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. % 702-786-7071. % 702-786-2020. 89451. 209 Kingsbury. 89502. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. CA 96151. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. 140 Vesta Street. % 702-329-5358.
% 800-635-0066. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. has 740 rooms. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. % 702-784-4944. Harvey’s Resort. $$$-$$$$. poolside service. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. High Country Soaring. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. a dance club. $$$-$$$$. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. three. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). offers 534 rooms.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. eight restaurants. $$$$. also features condo accommodations. of course. Harrah’s. 398 US 50. Tahoe Summit Village. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. The Douglas County Airport. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City..and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. Lake Village Vacations. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. % 800-6483773. $$$-$$$$. the Sierras and. Lake Tahoe. % 800-648-3353. % 800-99-RIDGE. on this site since 1944. has two. $$$$$$$. % 800-427-8397. . % 702-588-8571. $$$-$$$$.
% 800- . 407 North Virginia Street. first-class. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. 300 rooms and a noisy casino.700 rooms on 38 floors. $$$. the Cal-Neva Resort. % 800-624-7980. % 702-588-6644. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. 24 Highway 28. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. The Zephyr Cove Resort. % 800-824-6391. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. $$. lawn games. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. has 33 rooms. 210 North Center Street. A perennial four-star winner. $$-$$$. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. a rustic feel. $$-$$$. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. 2 Stateline Road. $-$$. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. 593 North Dyer Circle.$$-$$$$. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. % 702-831-0287. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. $$$-$$$$. combines great views. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. The Haus Bavaria B&B. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. % 800-322-7723. Today. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. Harrah’s. as well as a gym with instructor on site. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. As in Las Vegas. which serves free continental breakfast. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. % 800-687-8733. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. Among the downtown locations. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. % 702-8321234. % 800-225-6382. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. 111 Country Club Drive. % 800-731-6222. with more than 1. $$-$$$$. $$.
the Eldorado. $. 710 West Robinson Street. $$. $. free airport shuttle and skier rates. boasts nearly 600 rooms. % 800-723-6500. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. $$. has more than 1. 1100 Nugget Avenue. which overlooks the state government center. 345 North Virginia Street. % 702-8821887. % 702-827-0255. $$. $$. $$. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. % 800-648-1177. which features theme rooms. including a barber shop. 701 East 7th Street. % 800-648-5966. the Motel 6. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. % 702-882-3643. convention facilities and some impressive suites. The St. % 702-825-7134. an owner-built. $$$. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. Rates start at $195 per night. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. % 800-622-1890. % 800-320-0627. 3575 South Virginia Street. $$. has a heated pool. and Vagabond Inn. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. Charles Hotel. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. $$-$$$. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. 3131 South Virginia Street. Freeway convenient. 1901 South Virginia. % 702-358-1080. is a three-story. It has more than 1. $$-$$$. a heated pool and other amenities. 310 South Carson Street. Circus Circus. $$$. 600 South Carson Street.000 rooms. $$. Motel 6. two heated pools and a hair salon. the new Peppermill. $$. % 702-786-4070. Nearby. % 800-282-2444. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. welcomes bargain hunters. % 800-937-1436. % 800-723-6500. 500 North Sierra Street. Away from downtown. $$$$. most notably the Days Inn. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. The Atlantis. . an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. 2707 South Virginia Street. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino.
two with private baths. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. % 702-782-7644. % 702-782-7075. $$-$$$. for weary wanderers. the inn was built in 1872 by A. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. #800-628-7831. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. $$$. generic motels abound in Carson City. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. 1627 US 395. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. $$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. $$. % 702-847-9777. $-$$. has five rooms. including the small Genoa House Inn. % 702-782-5697. 2332 Main Street. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. some with kitchenettes. It has four rooms. and Pioneer. % 702-782-9711. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. % 702-882-3046. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. % 702-847-0521. 1643 US 395. 8 South F Street. $-$$. 180 Nixon Street. 11 with private baths. It has four rooms. 2001 Foothill Road. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. Pratt. The Crooked House. 565 South D Street. 1431 Ezell Street. % 702-847-0111. % 800-962-0732. $-$$. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. is the center of the action. % 702-557-2220. 1979 US 395. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. . $-$$. $$-$$$. was built in the late 1800s. 800 North Carson. $. There are 13 rooms. 1540 Main Street. % 800-321-6983. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. The Chollar Mansion. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. 1435 US 395. The motel has 40 rooms. $$. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. 907 South Carson. % 702-782-8720. 300 Main Street. $$.C. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. $$. and a casino. $$$. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. % 702-8825535.
1200 Razorback Road. Open for dinner only. Reservations are recommended. of course. % 702-588-6611. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. Ichiban. % 702-941-0371. including a seafood and oyster bar. $. The hotels. % 702-827-4111. The Chart House. The place has 14 rooms. % 702-323-3200. the lake’s first casino. Steak. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. no TVs and. 3065 West 4th Street. The restaurant also does its own baking. a casino. serves fresh Japanese steak. is a rousing pub with good food. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. coffee shops. The French cuisine is made with fresh. 328 Kingsbury Grade. the menu changes every two months. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. . % 702-825-1250. also run the gamut with delis. try the Glory Hole. Famous Murphys. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. 210 North Sierra Street. % 702-588-2411. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. 4201 West 4th Street. % 702-786-1323. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. seasonal ingredients. % 702-323-5550. ethnic food and full buffets. Open for dinner only. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. along with Caesars Tahoe. % 702-588-6276. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. 3127 South Virginia Street. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall.
Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. 1540 Main Street. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. 507 North Carson Street. 234 North Virginia. % 702-356-3300. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. The Carson Nugget Steak House. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. % 702786-5700. % 702-882-4556. 402 East William Street. . Adele’s. and Peppermill. South of the city center and south of the border. the Eldorado. % 702-882-0486. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. 1301 North Carson Street. % 702-8835100. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. Silvana’s.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. 2707 South Virginia Street. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. % 702-785-7000. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. 255 North Sierra Street. 1020 North Carson Street. % 702-8262121. Heidi’s. There is also an extensive wine list. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. % 702-847-0111. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. % 702-882-3353. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. % 702-689-7226. % 702-883-6261. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. serves fine French cuisine. this is the place. 1112 North Carson Street. % 702-348-9297. Boasting a large Italian menu. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. 4389 South Carson Street. dinner only on weekends. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. one of the top Italian eateries in country. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. seafood and steak. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. % 702882-1626. Two blocks away. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. El Charro Avitia.
Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. Rates run about $18 per night. which straddles the Nevada-California border.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. California. Open May through October. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. % 916-573-2600. including Virgin Valley. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. Call the Cedarville. the campground has 54 sites and running water. % 702-8822766. For information and fees. Reno RV Park. . off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. % 702-323-3381. The nightly fee is $5. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. nine for RVs. The overnight fee is $7. office of the BLM. for more information. Set at 8. % 702-789-2000. 735 Mill Street. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. Simply wonderful. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. call % 702266-3343. Mount Rose has running water. Showers are available. Big Spring Reservoir. The overnight rate is $12. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. Nightly fees are $6. % 916-279-6101. There are 44 campsites here. lies south of the river. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. some for RVs and some for tents. On the Nevada side. Open June through September. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. 1300 West 2nd Street. % 702-687-4319. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. the campground has 24 sites. 2500 East 2nd Street. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. % 702-322-2281. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees.900 feet. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge.
Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. wiry fellows not over eighteen. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. carrying only a pistol. Want ads called for “Young.. tore between stations. willing to risk death daily. 1861. Missouri. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. pausing only long enough to change mounts. and Sacramento. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good.” Riders. Beginning in April 1860. On October 24. Joseph. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. Orphans preferred. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory .. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Bible and mail pouch. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. skinny. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. the gutsy riders.Pony Express Territory vada. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. Incredibly. California. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini.
Near the town of Ely. . Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. Ranging in elevation from 3. Just a few hours from Ely. As might be expected. hiking and wildlife viewing.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. spans some of the most beautiful. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. there is excellent skiing. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. ridges and valleys in the country. Great Basin. But if you consider solitude. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. In the higher mountains. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. this area has plenty to offer. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. so be prepared for anything. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. glacier-carved peaks.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. In recent years. % 702-867-3500. % 702-423-3677. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. covers 77. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. canvasbacks. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. pelicans. (See On Water. Sunday.000 photographic images. 1050 South Maine Street. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. With 10. % 702-423-5128. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. White-faced ibis.000 years. peregrine falcons.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. In peak years. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. 1000 Auction Road. Admission is free. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. below. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. green-winged teals. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. snowy plovers. January through March. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. April through December. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. Over 14.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier.000 people.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds.
Just east of town. and “management” means hunting. is the artist in residence here. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. Just off the highway are two short trails. At press time. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. Pony Express Territory . on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. which features the famous Blue Angels. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. Every spring. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Over 8. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows.000 years ago. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. Adam Fortunate Eagle. On the south end of town. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. More than 21. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. The hunting season usually opens in October.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave.
undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort.” Booms. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations.” meaning sword. NV 89406. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. but strenuous. 379 West William Avenue. Near the station. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. A hike to the precipice is a safe. % 702-423-4556. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. Fallon. the low. roars and moans. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. dark. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. volcanic cliffs around it. wild West. If the roar of engines ever dies down. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. 100 Campus Way. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. listen for the mountain’s “singing. . fauna. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. NV 89406. regularly emanate from the dune.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. Fallon. % 702-423-2544. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. geology and history of the region. about three miles past West Gate.
then climbs again to Austin.350 feet. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. Round Mountain. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. NV 89310. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. Austin. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. PO Box 1149. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. NV 89045. % 702-964-2200. Austin is a quiet. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. the boom was followed by the bust. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). However the rush began. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. Three miles later. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). % 702-964-2145. As always. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. population about 300. Spencer’s Hot Springs. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. then to paved NV 376. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. past Bob Scott campground. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. Six miles later. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. PO Box 212.577 feet.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. 13 miles east of Austin.
Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. At mile 30. near Pete’s Summit. PO Box 1420. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. The hill is located on private land. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. . Austin. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. At mile 55. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. After merging with Lower Mine Road. There is also a free campground here. % 702635-4000. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. A long. NV 89820. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. is recommended for serious. are open to visitors just off the road. NV 89310. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. experienced cavers only. A series of safe.500 years ago. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. % 702-964-2200. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. The limestone cavern. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. PO Box 212. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. Just across Northumberland Pass (7.000 years ago. Battle Mountain.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later.
” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. Still. The shell of the building. however. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory .000 made it the second-largest city in the state. Gold mines. some a little less gloriously than others. The state’s No. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. NV 89316. % 702-237-5484. The building. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. dates from 1877. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. Eureka. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). found in the valleys around Eurkea. By 1878. and the Jackson House Hotel. But by 1890 the rush was over. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. Not until five years later. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. Eureka’s population of 9. completed in 1880 and still in use today. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. Eureka. but most definitely worth a gander. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. PO Box 14. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. are still a major facet of the local economy. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879.
000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. Entering town at night . US 50 rolls across basin and range. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. PO Box 14. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. Monday through Friday and by appointment. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. Pronounced EE-lee. NV 89316. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. A few miles farther south. Situated at 9. % 702-237-5484.000 feet.500 residents. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. Eureka. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. running south into the Humboldt National Forest.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. this mini-city (population about 5. n Ely Back on US 50.
is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. The museum. Return to US 50. On the other side of town. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. showers and hiking trails. Admission is free. There is primitive camping here. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. The White Pine Public Museum. East Ely. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. Call for exact dates and times. Prices start at $10 per person. engine house. % 702-728-4467. Since they went cold in the 1880s. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7.50 per person. % 702-2894710. Tours of the railroad yard. former First Lady Pat Nixon. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. as well as an original. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. depot. located on East 11th Street. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters.300 feet. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. clothing. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. a bicycle. furniture. % 702-289-2085. NV 89301. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. running water. Pony Express Territory . depart on selected dates from May through September. PO Box 150040. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. 2000 Aultman Street. like many museums in this territory. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. accessories. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine.
As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. contact the Ely office of the BLM. That leads quickly to Baker. Bristlecone Convention Center. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. While hikers are welcome. % 702-234-7331. % 702-289-8877. Most of the 77. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. In the 1950s a . the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. 150 6th Street. untamed backcountry. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. For more information. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. Designated a national park in October. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. sometimes by the hundreds. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. Only about 70. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. In 1922. % 800496-9350.000 people a year visit the park. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. a proposal to create a 6. % 702-289-4865. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. 636 Aultman Street. 1986. From Baker.
$3 for juniors. NV 89311-9702. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. draperies. flowstone and soda straws. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations.086-acre Great Basin National Park. then head straight out of the park. too. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. % 702-234-7331. among others. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. Finally. in 1986.000 to 44. which is actually one huge cavern. While celebrating a victory.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. are hard to beat. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. columns.000. The high-altitude campgrounds. Call ahead for conditions. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads.Touring n 111 plan for a 150.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. Baker. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. Tours of the cavern. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. Prices are $4 for adults. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. limited to 30 people at a time. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. or speleotherms: stalactites. stalagmites. are held every day except Thanksgiving. the park’s crown jewel. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. ski resorts and tramways. Christmas and New Year’s Day. (See On Foot and Camping. below. Congress settled on 77. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. . most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. And even if the invasive livestock were banned.067-foot Wheeler Peak. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains.
Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. or use paved NV 376. Millet Ranch. Bakeoven Creek. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. a few of which are even of gem quality. Drive three miles to the recreation area. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. Arc Dome. which has picnic tables and shade trees. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. To reach Garnet Hill. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. South Toiyabe Peak. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. % 702-9642671. The garnets found here. to reach the village of Kingston. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. . rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. Carvers NW. Tierney Creek.000 feet. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. are spessartite.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. Set at 7.600 feet. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. or magnesiumaluminum garnet.
After about 10 miles of hiking. The trail ends just before the summit. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. Pony Express Territory . difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. windswept paths. From the trailhead/parking area. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. This is some serious highcountry hiking. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. and Mount Moriah. 1. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. If threatening clouds approach. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. with many trails climbing above 10. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. a unique. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table.000-acre. headache. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. which may be impassable when wet. set aside in 1989. which at 12. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. which heads west toward the peak. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. is marked with trailhead signs. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. nausea. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. % 702-289-3031 for more information. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. Baker.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated.000 feet along rocky. as well as all the water you will need. leave the high country immediately. The wilderness. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek.
Use extreme caution here. the last 1. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. then turn left again. the views of the 8. the six-mile .000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. In 1878. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. The bowl. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. To reach the summit.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. If it is safe to venture to the peak. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. then descends to Teresa Lake. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. Finally. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake.063 feet. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. At 13.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. This is another depression etched by a glacier. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. or cirque. Continue straight.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail.
” Follow this exposed route toward 11. In good weather. Turn left. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. Around mile six. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. Return the way you came. To return to the trailhead. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. Wheeler Peak. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. Kious Spring. After about three miles. just off to the east. this is a nice overnight stop. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. To continue the loop hike. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road.700 feet in the first seven miles. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. Lehman Caves.926-foot Pyramid Peak. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. . and even a single needle might be 40 years old. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake.950 years. subalpine conditions. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. once the site of some mining activity.
189 Aultman Street. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. 2005 Harrigan Road. % 702-2893063. sells camping and outdoor equipment. % 702-289-4468. HCR 33. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. 89301. a quartermile. % 702423-9215. 89406. As of presstime. Wendover George A. 89301. Burdick Guide Service. Daum. % 702-289-4208. % 702-289-8886. 5030 Reno Highway. White River Guide Service. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. 701 Avenue F. % 702-423-5185. % 702-664-2977. 89883. 89301. 89406. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. Great Basin Inn. % 702-238-5232. 89301. % 702-867-3388. 89301. 89406. 89301. PO Box 2560. 1050 Aultman Street. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. % 702-4239215. . % 702235-7439. Sportsworld. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. 1707 Rice Road. 89406. J & P Auto Parts. PO Box 34005. 89406. Wildlife West Guide Service.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. Box 33570. 203 Heritage Drive. 3125 Stark Lane. Flying M Stables. % 702-423-6171. is worth a gander. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. % 800-874-0903. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. Silver State Stables. HC 34.
The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. % 702-885-6000. A 10-mile loop with a 1. Dune-buggy. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. NV 89310. Austin. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. The route runs north out of the canyon. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. contact the BLM. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. brochures and campgrounds. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. For more information. population 300. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. For more information. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. PO Box 130. % 702-964-2671.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. PO Box 504.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch.000 per year. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. Austin. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. the sixstory. one would think tiny Austin. NV 89310. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes.
for maps. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. sells and services bicycles. % 702-234-7331. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. past the US Forest Service station. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. directions and road conditions. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. and bring plenty of water. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. 1500 Aultman Street. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. From the pavement. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. when the weather is dry. % 702-289-8886. . The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker.
so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. where worms and corn are said to work best. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. % 702-688-1500. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. The trout limit is 10. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. White crappie can be hooked March through May. Lahontan State Recreation Area. Boat ramps are located in two spots. surrounds a 10. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. Pony Express Territory .Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. In 1997. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. along with sportfishing. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area.
The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. 701 Avenue F. via paved NV 376 and a three. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. % 702-423-6031. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. and one of the best bargains. which feeds the lake. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. 1050 Aultman Street. % 702-289-8886. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. J & P Auto Parts. Great Basin Inn. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. The Upper Reese River. 855 West Williams Avenue. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. is one of the biggest places in town.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. % 702-289-4865.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. $-$$. A few chain HO TE L . % 702-289-4468. 1500 Aultman Street. % 702-289-3063. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld.
is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. For a real blast from the past. a heated pool and a small casino. a heated pool and interior corridors. and. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. % 702-423-2194. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. $-$$. the Lincoln Motel. rates and directions. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. 180 West Williams Avenue. $$. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. which has 49 rooms. try Jackson House B&B. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. As you drive in from the west. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. $-$$. % 702-964-2306. basic equipment. $. who really cares. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. 1705 South Taylor Street. combines a B&B with a private. $$$. has 21 rooms. the 22-room Value Inn. has 27 rooms. meals and overnight accommodations. $. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . % 702-9642605. instruction. On the east end of town. but after a long day on the road. called Main Street as it runs through town. % 702-237-5334. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. 115 Northwest Main Street. 25 North Taylor Street. which has 17 rooms. including the Comfort Inn. 70 East Williams Avenue. % 702-423-4254. $-$$. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. the Budget Inn. also called Main Street here. The red brick structure was built in 1877. $$. $-$$.800 acres. % 702-423-5151. The ranch. % 702-423-5554. Call for information. most of which are on US 50. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. The Eureka Motel. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. % 702-237-5577. 1830 West Williams Avenue. The Sundown Lodge. % 702-237-5247. % 702-964-2698. while on the southern edge of town. % 702-964-2471.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. It is open seasonally. $-$$. % 702-423-4648. which has 30 rooms. is a modern. % 702-423-2277. has 17 rooms. The Nevada Belle Motel. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. $-$$. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. $. Smith Creek Ranch. $$$. with 10 rooms. which is north-south running US 95. the Pony Express House.
5th .300. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. has 21 rooms. 770 Avenue O. 701 Avenue I. $. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. the inn has five rooms with private baths. 220 East 11th Street. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. 930 Aultman Street. % 702-289-4497. % 702289-6671. There are also private balconies. two-story hotel. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. % 702-289-8900. located on the south side of town off US 93. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. The Bristlecone Motel. the building was vacant 10 years later. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. $-$$. For a more genteel stay. % 702-289-8838. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). % 702-289-4747. which has 19 rooms. $-$$$. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. The inn is open June through September. $-$$. 1101 Aultman Street. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. After years of dormancy. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. Ely With a population of more than 5. 700 Avenue I. $. $$-$$$. % 702-237-9988. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. $-$$. % 702-2891234. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. and its twin. % 702-289-8687. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. $$. $-$$. 501 Aultman Street. $-$$. is another living antique. For a more modern taste. % 702-289-4884.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. % 702-289-6665. 1501 Avenue F. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. 500 High Street. which has 61 rooms.
even fast food joints are nonexistent. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. % 702-289-4411.. $-$$. % 702234-7323. so call ahead for operating hours. is a favorite spot for travelers. Behind the Silverjack. $. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. and two others outside of Baker. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. PO Box 90. and the White Pine Motel. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. the Border Inn. what with its 29 rooms. % 702234-7300. which has a laundromat and showers. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. $-$$. % 702-234-7272. 1301 Aultman Street. . NV 89311. The Silverjack Motel. Baker. with its seven rooms. $. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. % 702-234-7267. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. offers tipis and a campground. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. % 702-289-3800. and Whispering Elms RV Park. $. guided tours and off-road adventures. 24hour laundromat and showers. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. 150 4th Street. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. % 702-234-7323.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. Utah. % 702-237-7302. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. $. % 702-234-7343. South of Baker at the national park boundary.. % 702-289-3033. along with horseback riding. It is open June through August. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce.er. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986.
Carol’s Country Kitchen. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. 1350 West Williams Avenue. 1955 McClean Road. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. however. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. is also open for three squares a day. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. % 702-423-3111. % 702-423-6166. 125 South Maine Street. Smack in the center of town. try Mary’s Owl . One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. If your mind is on pizza. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. % 702423-6828. Kentucky Fried Chicken. The International Café and Bar. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. % 702-423-5588. is Fallon’s only coffee house. Café Nations. Stockman’s Casino. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. 4150 Reno Highway. % 702-964-9905. Denny’s. is known throughout Fallon. is home to The Diner. have been serving great burgers. % 702-867-2769. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. In the 1920s and ‘30s. specializing in omelets and steaks. Toiyabe Café. % 702-423-2117. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. In 1929 and ’30. 875 West Williams Avenue. Open for breakfast.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. 960 Auction Road. including McDonald’s. The Fallon Nugget Casino. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. % 702-867-3750. lunch and dinner. The Depot Casino. Tony’s. The Mexican food at La Cocina. serves up steaks. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. including the few eateries. % 702-423-3233. 70 South Maine Street. % 702-964-2493. 1560 West Williams Avenue. % 702-964-2220.
West of Fallon. % 702-688-1500. The Busy Bee Drive-In. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. 211 5th Street. serving diner-style grub. % 702-289-4884. % 702-237-5280. % 702-964-2412. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. 5787 Reno Highway. top sirloin steak and eggs. Believe it or not. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. % 702-289-3905. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. located three miles north of town on US 93. has 64 sites. 4800 Reno Highway. and is attached to a bar. and Orient Express. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. 562 Aultman Street. % 702-867-3636. % 702-964-2627. offers 45 sites. % 702-289-4888. % 702-237-5356. % 702-867-2332. is also open 24 hours a day. and Hubtotel RV Park. 2160 Aultman Street. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. % 702-289-3313. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. which features prime rib. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. might as well top it off in Eureka.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. The Fireside Inn. % 702-237-5477. 21. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . where the restaurants are also along US 50. 701 Avenue I. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. Jerry Restaurant No. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. Lahontan State Recreation Area. The Owl Club. % 702-289-3033. 501 Aultman Street. serves a fine steak sandwich. 1455 Aultman Street. % 702-2289-3765. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. however. Fallon RV Park. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. % 702-289-6665. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out.
as there are no services near the water. NV 89310. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. both off of US 50. where there are eight campsites set at 7. For information. 24 miles east of Austin. Austin RV Park. grills. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. Just east of town. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. To reach Bird Creek campground. then go a mile to County Road 1059. Open April to October. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. There are 10 sites here .800 feet. There is drinking water here. % 702-964-1011. North of Ely. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. No running water or firewood. About nine miles south of Big Creek. along with campfire rings. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. Just east of the Eureka town limits. None have running water. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. Only six miles southwest of Ely. Battle Mountain. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. There are 15 sites. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. For more information and road conditions. Austin. which are open June through September with running water. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. NV 89820. Bob Scott Campground. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze).500 feet. % 702-635-4000. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. Finally. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. picnic tables and vault toilets. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. set at 7. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. PO Box 1420.300 feet. PO Box 130. % 702-964-2671. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. After a few miles.
% 702-2893303. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. Set at 7. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. To reach the campground from US 50. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. Ely. 89301. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. Upper Lehman. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. Pony Express Territory .300 feet. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. this is the only park campground open all year. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres.250 feet). accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. The BLM. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. NV. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. has 100 sites.752 feet. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. and there are no showers. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. % 702-2893413. In Great Basin National Park. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. depending on weather conditions. There are 30 sites here at 7. % 702-234-7331. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. % 702-289-4865. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs.886 feet. On the northern edge of the park. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay.530 feet. and Valley View RV Park. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. on US 93. In the center of the park. % 702-2893031. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. 350 8th Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. Contact the visitors center. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. For more information.
Edmund Schulman. the state animal. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. started pulling core samples. He found one living specimen dating back 4. . whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. Desert bighorn sheep. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. the oldest living thing on earth.000-year-old duck decoys. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. Today in Cowboy Country. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. Named Methuselah. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. The short. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids.000 feet and more.700 years. however. not many of them stayed around very long. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. sagebrushcovered sea. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. reaching as high as 11. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. humans. Throughout history.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. who described them as “lowly old giants. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. call many parts of this high country home.
Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. lakes and reservoirs. bass and other gamefish. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. Summers are generally hot and dry. and know how to use them. Winter brings rain and snow. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. In fact. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. bikers and equestrians.000 years. In 1993. streams. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. The weather here can be as wild as the land. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. Elko headed the list of the 100 . Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. towns like Winnemucca. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. Carry good maps and a compass.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends.
eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. This is a place where pick-up trucks. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. followed by the doomed Donner Party. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. but thanks to new mining technology. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. lunch and dinner. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. parts of which are still visible today. others moved on. including one named Samuel Clemens. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. But since the early days. but everyday tools. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. after the riches ran out. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. took to sheepherding. In late 1860s.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. both held in Elko. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. The famous trail. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. Cowboy Country . combed Cowboy Country. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. paralleled the Humboldt River. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services.
a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. which measures . This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. about 17 miles from Lovelock. which crosses the Humboldt River. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert.000-square-mile Pershing County. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. After eight miles. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. George Lovelock. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. arrived here in 1866. Five miles southwest of the shelter. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave.300. located on the southern outskirts of town. turn left on Derby Road. which the company named after him. The seat of 6. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. With a population of just over 2. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter.
Admission is free. many of which were donated by locals. are large. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. He may have been led there by Natchez. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. clothing and household items. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. NV 89419. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. Scientific excavations. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. dark. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. the first ever in the Great Basin. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. which also features the community pool. picnicperfect park. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. Mummified remains were found here. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . located just off I-80 on the west end of town. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. PO Box 821. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. Lovelock. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. % 702-273-2713. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. One of only two round courthouses in the country.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. Tufas. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. in 1886 or 1887.
Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. NV 89419. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. PO Box 821. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. After later taking the name Mark Twain. About 16 families reside in Unionville. is centered on this man-made lake. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. Open all year. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. below) and wellmanicured homes. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. where stone . % 702-273-2713. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. which seems close enough to touch. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road.134 n Cowboy Country vada. Lovelock. fishing and camping. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. For details. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. see below under Adventures. % 702-538-7321. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. as well as opportunities for boating. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It.
the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach Unionville from I-80. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. They later brought their families. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. Edna Purviance. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. Admission is free. % 702-623-2912. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. except for lunch. dancing. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Winnemucca (population 7. % 702/623-2225. Today their descendants. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. a good spot for a picnic. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. the Humboldt Museum complex. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. a former resident. Curator . the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. From here it’s five miles to the town. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill.
The thieves escaped to Texas. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. Winnemucca. along with a thank you note. Another gem is the Shone House.000 in gold. Like something out of old Mexico. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Winnemucca. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. % 702-623-5025. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. was erected in 1863. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. US Forest Service. % 800-962-2638. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. The tour visits 30 sites. Winnemucca. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900.000. % 702-623-1500. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. 352 Bridge Street. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. Winnemucca.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. but all are easily drivable. 95 Bridge Street. one of two in the country. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. NV 89445. . There is a gift shop next door. 602 Bridge Street. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. NV 89445. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. NV 89445. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. nabbing $32. The former First National Bank. % 702623-5025. 705 East Fourth Street. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. St. NV 89445.
The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. A 20th-century ghost town. Midas is two miles from this junction. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. once a busy town of more than 2. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. which serves as a meeting place and information center. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. which . so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. The camp was abandoned by 1869. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. the town was an empty shell. To reach the remains of the camp. The Rochester Mining District. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. Jungo. between Winnemucca and Lovelock.300 people had moved by 1913. along with the local watering hole. all but 250 people left. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. and 2. after fending off resident Paiutes. Three years later the village became Paradise City. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Today about 100 people live in town. established Scottsdale in 1866. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80.
just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. is easy to locate. A state park. % 702-623-5025. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. The local mining. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. however. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. biking. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. % 702-578-3381. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. fishing and camping. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. offers a bar. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. Basque . After all. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. Elko traces its roots back to 1868.) In town. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. (See Adventures.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. beautiful high-country lake. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. sometimes an angler’s paradise.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. verdant marshes. obtain maps. Just south of town.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-7383418. In Winnemucca. 1515 Idaho Street. this is Cowboy Country. Paradise Saloon. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. It’s the white. Gas is also available. this town of about 25. (See Adventures and Camping. deli and soda fountain. located on the extreme east end of town. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993.
Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. and a charter airline. Displays of local wildlife. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. % 800-331-1212. Harris Field. 9 AM to 5 PM. geography. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. The Western Folklife Center. geology and industry abound. Hertz Rent-A-Car. % 800-8727245. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. Admission is free. % 800-453-9417. % 702-738-7123. along with various other events throughout the year. 501 Railroad Street. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). For airport information. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. 1 PM to 5 PM. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. also known as J. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport.C. % 702-738-7508. El Aero Services. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. Deweys Rent-A-Car. % 702-738-5131. and Sunday.Touring n 139 immigrants. % 800-654-3131. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. 10 AM to 5 PM.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. . preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy.
% 800-248-ELKO. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. Elko. passing Powerhouse picnic area. with elevations ranging up to 11. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. Elko.800 feet). take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. Alpine vistas. % 702-738-5171. 976 Mountain City Highway. located southeast of Elko. 89801. 89801. fishing and camping in the entire West. Elko Chamber of Commerce. including the remote. 89803.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. (See Adventures and Camping. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. 90. Elko. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. Humboldt National Forest.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. From Elko. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. % 702-753-0200. 700 Moren Way. 89801.387 feet at Ruby Dome. From town. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. 1601 Idaho Street. 3900 East Idaho Street. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. Elko. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. % 702-738-7135. At the . is one of the most photographed churches in the West. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains.
(See On Foot. turns south. is spectacular.Touring n 141 crest. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. see below. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. and by the 1930s the rush was over. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out.387 feet. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. From Wells. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. or call them at % 702-488-2315. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. For access to both. . rising 11. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. this town sticks to Mountain Time. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. Nevada. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. U-shaped valley.500 people flooded into the region. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. From the south. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. and there’s no argument here. Even when they are open. Idaho. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. check with the owners of the Trading Post. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. More than 1. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. the road meets the Jarbidge River. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. Yes. a high clearance vehicle is required. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. then north another 25 miles. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. The road leads east 21 miles. down into Jarbidge Canyon. so drive cautiously. Ruby Dome. is visible in the west. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. For details on all of this. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall.
n Wells From Elko. exit at No. and the 37. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. Before entering town. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. The range is also home to Angel Lake. the 44.) On the Utah side of the state line. both available at the Trading Post. however. To access the flats. This is also the junction of US 93. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. head east from the border. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. Sunday until 9 PM.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. reached easily via a paved highway. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. % 702-752-3215. 647 Humboldt Avenue. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. the main difference between the two sides being.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. Bonneville Speedway Museum. % 801-665-7721. of course. The town was abandoned in 1942. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. 4 and go five miles northeast. try Stuart’s Foodtown. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. stare out across the famous. n Wendover From Wells. the main artery running up the east side of the state. Cool. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. which rises to 11.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. the presence of casinos. For ghost town fans. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies.
Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. Eagles. falcons and ospreys are common. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. hawks.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. a . when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. The night before the events. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover.600 feet in two miles. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. % 702-664-3414. June Both hay. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada.000 buckaroos. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. which gains 1. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. the historic World War II B-29s. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. which attracts upwards of 10. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. is held in late March or early April.
. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one.. featuring food. six. dancing. Phone numbers can be found above. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. The town of McDermitt. Near Wendover. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. For details. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. hear the music and eat the food. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. July In July. a parade and feats of strength. call % 702-635-8245. under Touring. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. There is a traditional dance contest. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. The largest Basque get-together in the US.or 23-mile loop. Unless otherwise indicated.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. In Wendover. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. when tanks.
go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. Pronghorn antelope. From here.000 feet in four miles. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. Falcon Press Publishing. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. passable by high-clearance vehicles. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. The trailhead appears after three miles. Granite Peak (elevation 9. Chartered in 1989. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. This makes for a great loop drive. Star Peak (elevation 9. Star Peak. From the top.834 feet).200 feet. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. 1994. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. To reach the trail. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. climbing more than 4. the road.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. The first half of the moderately strenous.732) is the highest point. The trail is punishing. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. crossing Buffalo Creek. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. Aspen. To reach the trailhead. including the 31. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. which . At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. lupine and leopard lilly are common here.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. willow and cottonwood country. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. leads due east toward the highest point.
This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. descends toward a watercourse.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. Return the way you came. narrow canyons.415). including Singas Creek.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. Mountain lions. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. more than 10. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. where you turn south. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. about one mile south of town. glacial lakes. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. % 702-623-5025. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out.” Elevations range from 6. big horn sheep. USGS 7. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon.800 feet above sea . The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. cirque basins. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above).6 miles to a parking area. Come prepared for anything.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. Horses are welcome on these trails. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. Hikers can visit rock peaks. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. depending on weather conditions. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving.
with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary.300-foot . Feel free. % 702-752-3357. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. Pause to rest but not to fish. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. At 10. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area.400 feet. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. as there are no trout here. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. of course. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. set at 9. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). The pass is often closed in winter. cross Lamoille Creek a few times.400 feet and heads north. The 1. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. Franklin Lake NW. and his dog Molly.500 feet. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. The five-mile. so check road conditions before heading out. know this region as well as anyone.Adventures n 147 level. % 702-738-7135. From Roads End. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. this is the high point of the trek. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. Hyslop. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. After about a mile and a half.
000-foot mark.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. Idaho.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. On a good day. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. Return the way you came. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. Most of the paths are found in the 113. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. subalpine forests. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. Just past the spring. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. Wild- . Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. The trail drops again. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote.000 feet to 10. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. Finally.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. From the trailhead. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip.700 feet. the closest town. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. Unfortunately. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
call % 702-758-6493. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. rainbows. is also a good fishing spot. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. and black bass have become a favorite catch. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. supports brook. Channel cats. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. The site has a paved boat ramp. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. campsites and restrooms. mountain whitefish. % 702-623-5025. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. brown and rainbow trout. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. To reach the lake from Elko. For more information. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. and everything is open year-round. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here.
For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. Turn left and head south 32 miles. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. short-eared owl and American kestrel. trumpeter swam. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. At the foot of the range. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. . flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. midway between the northern and southern portions. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. For more information. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. Angel Lake Near Wells. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds.154 n Cowboy Country ers. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. so check road conditions before heading out.000 acres. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. contact the US Forest Service. including bald and golden eagle. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. For an easier drive from Wells.800 feet. elevation 8. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. great sandhill crane. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. To reach the refuge from Elko. white-faced ibis. Within six miles of the trailhead. % 702-738-5171. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west.
the spring-fed. 89801. Rainbow. 89801. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. 89801. % 702-625-2453. 89833. Elko Guide Service. % 702-7382775. 423 South Bridge Street. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. For more information. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . 89833.400-acre lake. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. To reach the 2. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. 1250 Lamoille Highway. In warmer months. % 702-7388473. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. % 702-7442277.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. % 702779-2226. PO Box 515. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. PO Box 685. Secret Pass Outfitters. crystalline Blue Lakes. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. % 702-777-DIVE. the bowcut trout. 285 12th Street. % 702779-2268. Grandview Marine. HC30 Box 17 #13. Raley’s. 2511 Mountain City Highway. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. HC 60. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. have become a local haven for divers. % 702-664-3414. HC 60. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. 89801. are the best bets here. catfish. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter.
$$$. $$. restaurant.000 acres of skiable mountain. % 702-753-6867. pool and jacuzzi. lounge. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. % 800-528-1234. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. is convenient to I-80. offers 130 acres of terrain. lodging and all the extras. not to mention 74 rooms. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. covering 5. one tame and the other decidedly not so.200 vertical feet. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko.200 feet. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder.500 to 6. . 55 Cornell Avenue. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. To reach the ranch from I80. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. 2805 Unionville Road. ranging from 5. depending on snowfall. Although there isn’t a television to be found. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. The Lovelock Inn. is the most happening place in town. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. % 702-273-2937.500 feet.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. 1420 Cornell Avenue. then head west for five miles to town. with a 24-hour casino. % 702-538-7585. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. Elko SnoBowl. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. $-$$. The outfit boasts 5. % 702-738-7135. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. Lunch and dinner are extra. Trips are limited to 16 people.
% 702-738-8787. $$. % 702-623-5248. Casino Express. $$. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. $$-$$$. $-$$. $$-$$$. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. 3015 Idaho Street. restaurant and full bar. and the Holiday Motel. $$. $-$$. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. There are plenty of cheap. $$-$$$. offers 40 rooms. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. $$-$$$$. % 702-7387261. 2050 Idaho Street. The Red Lion not only has a casino. with 150 rooms. restaurant and bar. and the generic. starting with the two biggies. $$. and the Motel 6. 837 Idaho Street. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. offering 70 rooms. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. % 702-738-8425. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. $$$. casino. $$$$$. the Ameritel Inn Elko. the 170-room Holiday Inn. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. $-$$. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the Super 8. a lounge with live entertainment. is for you. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The Gold Country Inn. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. basic motels on the main drag. but also its own charter airline. and the Days Inn. and the Model T Motel. 1930 Idaho Street. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. a pool and 223 rooms. $$. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard.000. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the 80-room Val-U Inn. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 800-262-8901. the Red Lion Inn. % 800-633-6435. 2065 Idaho Street. % 800-346-5306. the Gold Country Motor Inn. % 800-645-5658. $-$$. the Red Lion Inn. eateries. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-3646. % 702-623-3661.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. 400 1st Street. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. There are also two Best Westerns. % 702-623-1116. in- . also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. including the queen of Elko establishments. % 800-545-0044. % 702-625-1818. % 702-738-8421. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). % 702-623-1180.
a swimming pool. $-$$. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. $$. PO Box 281381. biking and horseback riding. . The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. bar and pool. % 702-738-5522. 89828. 340 Commercial Street. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. 1755 Idaho Street. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. Stonehouse Country Inn. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. % 702-738-7115. Lamoille. Jiggs Guest Ranch. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. $$$-$$$$. There is even space for campers and RVers. $$$$. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. Just outside of Lamoille. has 70 rooms. Stockmen’s Hotel. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. $-$$. PO Box 281208. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. % 702-738-8488. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. $$$-$$$$. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. detached cabin with jacuzzi. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. % 702-578-3530. There are 141 rooms. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. hiking and fly fishing. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. $$$-$$$$. $$. Red’s Ranch. % 702-753-6281. $$-$$$. $-$$. % 702-738-5141. The Shilo Inn. % 702-753-6363. restaurants. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. and the Thunderbird Motel. $$-$$$. 345 Idaho Street. Away from Idaho Street. % 702-753-6356. including skeet shooting. along with a pool. 2401 Mountain City Highway. is an exclusive. some with kitchenettes. jacuzzi and fitness center.
$-$$. % 702-488-2315. % 702-752-3888. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. HC 62. Down the street. % 800-848-7300. 326 6th Street. Jarbidge. PO Box 300. PO Box 1300. most of them planted along 6th Street. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. and the Best Western Sage Motel. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. $. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. the Rest Inn Suites. % 702-752-2101. 930 6th Street. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. The Super 8. % 702-7523065. If not. the Outdoor Inn. Cottonwood Ranch. 89826. % 702-752-2151. $-$$$$. offers another 24 rooms. $. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. $. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. % 702-752-3604. There are 57 rooms. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. On the north side of town. PO Box 260090. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. % 702-488-2311. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. There are more than 1. % 702-752-3384. On Main Street. $-$$. the Chinatown Motel. % 702-752-3353. $-$$. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. has 56 rooms. For more information. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. HC 62. $. 456 6th Street. % 702-752-2116. 1250 East 6th Street. 100 Wendover Boulevard. $$-$$$. $-$$. 576 6th Street. Together . Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. % 702-4082338. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. $$$-$$$$. $$-$$$. even by the neighbors in Utah. if you’re into chains. % 702-752-2277. and the Old West Inn. which also has a restaurant and bar. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations.
and Pizza Factory. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. is another gamer’s haven. 485 Cornell Avenue. 9 PM on Sunday. Mexican food and pizza. $$-$$$. along with daily specials. In the center of town. which basks in the Basque tradition. tennis courts. % 702-273-2971. jacuzzi. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. $$. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. lounges. live entertainment. including restaurants and lounges. % 800-648-9660. % 702-623-3197. leg of lamb. a 14. 1420 Cornell Avenue. Wee B’s Pizza & More. La Casita. 680 Wendover Boulevard. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. % 800-537-0207. with 90 rooms. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. 260 Maine Street. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. % 702-664-2888. % 702-273-7773. restaurants. 410 Cornell Avenue.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. live showroom entertainment. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. The Peppermill Hotel. is open until 10 PM every day. a health club. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. . There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. shrimp and Basque side dishes. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. and until 2 PM on Sunday. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. % 702-273-3232. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. pool and jacuzzi. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. 750 Cornell Avenue. pool. % 702-273-7444. serving steak. offers breakfast. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. lunch and dinner. which has live entertainment. Nearby. $-$$. % 702-273-2442.000-square-foot casino. the Super 8.
460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. Toki Ona. since 1863. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. .Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. % 702-625-2555. but get there before 1 PM. while The Griddle. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. % 800-545-0044. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. 2065 Idaho Street. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. % 702-623-6777. 1061 West Fourth Street. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. This being ranch country. Specializing in steak. China Garden. Another Basque establishment. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. 95 South Bridge Street. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-2977. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. home of the world’s largest potato field. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. Elko The Red Lion Inn. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. all of their meat is cut to order. 340 Commercial Street. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. 1550 Idaho Street. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. % 702-623-2908. % 702-738-3214. seafood and chicken. The Steak House. % 702-623-4440. Stockmen’s Hotel. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. 180 Melarkey Street. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. Restaurante San Fermin. % 702-738-5141. % 702-623-3455. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. % 702-738-9691. 405 Silver Street. % 702-623-4104. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. The atmosphere is definitely casual. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials.
Main and Humboldt Streets. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. % 702-752-3210. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. 780 Commercial Street.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. % 702-738-7898. Pine Lodge. Prices range from moderate to expensive. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn.300 souls. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. % 702-753-6363. 9 Beans and a Burrito. If you crave Mexican food. % 702-4882315. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. % 702-488-2311. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. Burger Bar. % 702-753-3877. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. to peruse the ornate bar. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). depending on weather conditions. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. also serves hearty meals. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. 1740 Mountain City Highway. 2525 Mountain City Highway. . where it survived The Big One in ’06. % 702-738-7088. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. % 702-753-6356. Pizza Barn. % 702-738-1622. % 702-7382541. opens daily at 11 AM. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. La Fiesta. 217 Idaho Street. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. delivers on its name.
Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. $8 for a two-family site. Set at 7. $3 per night in winter.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. The Peppermill Hotel. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. 25. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. For more information. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. 680 Wendover Boulevard. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. The fee is $7 per night.600 feet. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. call % 702-538-7321. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. % 800-648-9660. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. There is running water and vault toilets. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. The other one. 23. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. call % 702-738-5171. Fees are $7 per night in summer. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. For modern hunter-gatherers. just north of the dam. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. The main draw here is 11.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. Set at 7. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. located at the end of Hanson Street. which holds trout and walleye. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. Sites 22. 100 Wendover Boulevard. For more information.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. % 800-848-7300. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. 22 miles north of Lovelock. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. 27 and 29 are especially good. offer 12 different restaurants. two beautiful US Forest Service .400 feet. For more information. the area has two campgrounds. call % 800-962-2638.
Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. % 208-5434129. offering 18 sites with running water. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. Set at 8. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. % 702-752-3357. The cabins are open October through mid-May. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. including three run by the US Forest Service. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. first-served sites. and are open June to October. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. . Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites.800 feet and is popular with anglers.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. One mile north of town. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. For more information. with running water. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. About five miles up NV 225. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. The fee is $5 per night. and the fee is $7 per night. has 37 first-come. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. For information on the above campgrounds. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15.500 feet. but no running water. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. and the fee is $8 per night. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. The campground. all free. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5.900 feet. Angel Creek is set at 6. depending on the availability of running water.
but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. Others.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. who once roamed this entire area. Meanwhile. like Belmont and Rhyolite. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. writer. US For- B Pioneer Territory . marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. both socially and physically. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. are in a state of “arrested decay. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. an 11. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. however.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
Department of Defense.000. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains.Touring n 167 est Service. and six state parks to explore. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. affordable housing . Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. low taxes. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. In the Mojave Desert. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. then limber pine at higher elevations. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. Toiyabe. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. In the lowlands. but the rest of the country. Nevada Division of State Parks. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. People and services are scarce. Geographically. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. Rocky Mountain elk. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills.
mission-style. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. 1771 Sagehen Road. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. blue and white building. It’s also one of the hottest. In 1997.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . 1141 South Highway 160. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. authorizing up to 90. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. only winery in Nevada. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. % 702-727-5800. there’s no competition). is the first and. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. The 22. 3810 Winery Road. contact the Chamber of Commerce. % 702-7270896. as of this writing. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. According to Winona LaDuke. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. % 702-751-0821. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. % 702-7276900. On the south end of town in a modern. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM).
NV 89020. Amargosa Valley. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. prairie falcons. coyotes and rabbits. coots. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. It’s no easy job. % 702-372-5435. and the second-greatest in all of North America. snipe. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. whitefaced ibises.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. following the signs to Ash Meadows. moorhens. great blue herons. including ducks. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. % 702-372-1131. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. Box 610Z.300 spread over 545 square miles. . view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. Visitors can. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. then head west for about 20 miles. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. HCR 70. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. mallards. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. for some handmade Mexican food. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. inaccessible to the general public. however.
NV 89020. % 702-3725459. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. HC 70. Kelly’s Bottle House. Amargosa Valley. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. maps. % 702-5532200. PO Box 6102. three newspapers. the gray. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. for more information. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. 50 saloons. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. . Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite.000. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. 19 hotels.000. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904.000 claims over 30 square miles. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. Now recognized as a state historic site. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. and the old train depot.
The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. when the money ran dry. crystal chandeliers. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. In the first decade of the 20th century.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. % 702-553-2424. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. however. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. constructed in 1908 for $500.000. By 1920. life-size. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite.” a collection of white. Local residents were used as models. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. keeping a population of more than 20.000 dizzy with gold fever. Goldfield Founded in 1902. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. Today the remains of stone buildings. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. Once the largest city in the state. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. turn-of-the-century frontier community. . By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper.
more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. % 702-482-9676. and east-west-running US 6.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. and spend a few hours following its trail. % 702482-3558. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. 301 Brougher Avenue. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. built in 1908 and still in use today. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. % 702-485-6365. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. including the old post office that is now the local museum. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. the Central Nevada Museum. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. however. . the town of Gold Point is still breathing. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. Before heading out. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse.
including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. As this is being written. which dates to 1906. Located on the north edge of town. In 1911. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. including a map room.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. For more information. which total more than 260. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. ore bins. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. A library. Bartlett House. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. For more on these wonderful regions. power plants. Like many Nevada locales. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. Mineral. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. which helped put the state on the map. photographs and exhibits. Admission is free. The museum is open daily. 9 AM to 5 PM. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. As a judge. are available by special request. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. with Hawthorne the new seat. see below under On Foot. and the 1907 George A. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. slide show and research facilities. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne.000 acres. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. the town exploded – figuratively – and . Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. call % 702-482-5355.
however. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. 898 E Street. fire and railroad equipment. Nevada seat and the Mono . noon to 4 PM in winter. At the zenith of its existence. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. at the corner of 10th and D streets.000 residents. The Mineral County Museum. the town boasted 1. paved road on the right. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. and by 1890 the good times were over. below. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. just three miles from the California border.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14.000. The museum is open Monday through Friday. rocks. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. a combination truck stop. Near the northern tip of the lake. To reach Candelaria.500 people. cameras and photography. (See On Water. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. Take this road six miles to the town. restaurant and Native American gift shop. Victorian furniture. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. To see where it all started. Admission is free. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. is nearby Walker Lake. wildlife and fossils.) Before heading to the lake. The main attraction. minerals. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. % 702-945-3266. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. % 702-945-5142. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
200 feet. native plants and unique rock formations. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. located in a long. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. Boats are not recommended. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. % 702-728-4467. All of them offer overnight camping. set at 5. below). but travel is not advised during winter months. From Caliente. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. is open year-round. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. From . three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. The park. pinyon and juniper forests. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. There are 42 campsites. For information on any or all.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. The 2. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. along with many other events. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water.
the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente.000. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. for a walking/driving tour map. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. There are 37 campsites. they ran up to $1 million. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. hazy afternoon. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. true believers theorize. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Winter travelers might also find snow here. men in black and all things conspiratorial. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. Packed with historic points of interest. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. From Caliente. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . government cover-ups. % 702-962-5215. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. The original building costs totaled $16. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. All told.
selling souvenirs and literature. a thought scarier than any little green men. % 702-729-2515. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. a bar and cemetery. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. If you’re in the neighborhood. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. The park is open all year. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. including the old mill. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. or fish lizards. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. Ichthyosaurs. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. sleeping quarters. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world.
The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. August. Return the way you came. From here. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. through Gabbs. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. elk. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. where desert bighorn sheep. The trail climbs nearly 2. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. For more information. April. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. the highest point in Nevada at 13. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes.140 feet. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. July.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. call % 702-867-3001. deer. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. following a stream into Trail Canyon. turn right. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. up through the sparse forest of . travel west six miles to NV 773. October and November. mountain lion. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. To reach the park from Hawthorne.000 feet in 3½ miles. The hike begins on the road. then half a mile east. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. There are numerous access points to the 115. June. to NV 884. From here go seven miles to a junction. Interpretive tours are held in March. The trail seems faint at times. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. Located in the relatively dry.
Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. Pine Creek. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. About a mile and a half later. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. too. The 38. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. the trail gains 1. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. About 500 yards beyond the mill. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. USGS quads for Carvers NW. .361-foot Arc Dome. limber pine. The path descends further. nine miles from the trailhead. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The main trail leads straight ahead. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage.020-foot Peavine Peak. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here).400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. Consult Toms Canyon. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. where it crosses the water several times. pinyon pine and juniper. up and up alongside the South Twin River. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. and at higher elevations. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. another narrow. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead.
949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. deer and coyote. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. mountain lion. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up.000 years ago. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. In fact. going west. which tops out at 11. Return the way you came.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. The summit trail. . literally and figuratively. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. which marks the way to Pine Creek. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. The high point. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. 11. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. It was used as a hunting camp 5. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. is imposing Mount Jefferson. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. is lined with aspen and birch. Turn left and head toward the highest point. south. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. From Tonopah. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. After turning west. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness.949 feet above sea level.
then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. The trail first splits at mile three. Hikers should have maps and a compass. The 98. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. climbing up the creek drainage. set aside in 1989. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. rugged country. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. with Dry Lake off to the west. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). As you’ll see. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. and the skills to use them. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek.000 acres. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah.856foot Monitor Peak. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. This is remote. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. From the trailhead. The main trail continues straight ahead. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. To complete a nice loop hike. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. Elk. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. so travel with care. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time.
half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. 1997.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. % 702-4826286. . some will lead hikes and photography trips. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. then continue south two miles back to the campground. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. White’s masterful book. refer to Michael C. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. crosses the water and begins a steep. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. Once atop the plateau. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. then descending into Ash Canyon. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. Wilderness Press. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. Also close by. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. Meanwhile. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. in Echo Canyon State Park. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. Enjoy the views.
89049. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. 89025. Timberline Outfitters.. Lund Gary Luisetti. . 89045. Mustang Outfitters. Round Mountain William A. 89045. % 702-465-2598. % 702-482-6258. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. 8½ miles from US 95. Box 77206. 89317. The road turns east briefly.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. Timberline Outfitters. % 702-463-4497. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. PO Box 168. Berg. which.108 feet. Moapa Adam R. % 702-482-6422. 89430. % 702-283-7797. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. James S. turn left and head due south. Jr. Expeditions Unlimited. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. PO Box 1149. unmarked hike to the summit. you’ve gone too far. (If you pass Millers. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. HCR 60. Galvin. 89447. Yerington Marty S. Nicholas Perchetti. then continues south to a junction. Stahl. % 702-964-2145. climbing into a small valley. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Smith. PO Box 725. % 702-964-1207. PO Box 65. Lewis. PO Box 162. Mason Valley Guide Service. Grand Slam Safaris. 27 Smith Gage Road. Howard. leaving a strenuous. PO Box 428. Roy Lerg. 89049.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. Just beyond the right-of-way. at 9.
where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. known for abundant wildlife. % 702377-2490. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. however. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. Belmont saw most of the 2. with dredging continuing into the 1970s.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. Just north of Pine Creek. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. Manhattan boomed. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. is open for business on weekends. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. and Pine Creek. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. so keep your distance. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . % 702-482-6331. The Belmont Saloon. For road conditions. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. The other ruins are on private property. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. A few dozen people still live in the area. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range.000 to construct in 1876. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. which was first settled in the 1860s. Continuing north. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22.
Adventures n 189 as it is unique. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). Continuing north. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. Not only is the water very hot. As tempting as a bath might seem. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range.2 mile west of Lockes going south. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. . where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. mountain mahogany and aspen. stay out. The springs are half a mile away. From Pioche. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Pioneer Territory Mt. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. to establish missions. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. Take an unpaved road . where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. Wilson National Back Country Byway. For more information contact the BLM. % 702-482-7800. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. but check on road conditions before you go. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. then part of Utah Territory. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. the fauna changes to ponderosa. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on.
Two of the best spots are Peavine . % 702289-4865. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. 13. 5340 South Oakridge Road. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. % 702727-4504. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. % 702-727-8276. Just a mile north of Dyer. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies.140-foot Boundary Peak. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. At Oakridge Landing. cutthroat and rainbow trout. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. The road follows the creek west into the mountains.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. brown. contact the BLM. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. Information Sources For more information and a map.
They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. October and November.7 miles north of Hawthorne). then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. rainbow and brown trout. The lake is named for Joe Walker. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. Covering 37. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. .3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. April.000 acres. however. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. Fishing derbies are held in February. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. picnic facilities and boat ramp. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. In fact. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. After the road peters out. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. % 702-482-6286. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne.4 miles).
Contact the refuge office. are the main attraction here.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. Kathleen L. CA. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. write the group at PO Box 867. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Brown trout. NV 89415. for details. Boaters are welcome. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. while Canada geese. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. which are stocked in spring and fall. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. Bishop. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). Howe. % 760-872-2533 . Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides.000 acres. 633 Schley Street. about 13 miles south of the confluence. % 702-725-3417. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Classic Anglers. % 702-394-4040. Hawthorne. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. largemouth bass and white crappie. 93514. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. but motors are prohibited. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead.
Box 77206. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. The family-style outings. % 702-3721717. Jr. Stahl. 89104. Galvin. Mustang Outfitters. Howard. 89045. Mason Valley Guide Service.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. Nicholas Perchetti. home on the range. The big enchilada is Saddle West. HCR 60. Advance reservations are highly suggested. Tonopah Stanley R. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. % 702-889-8844. 89045. at least temporarily. 1220 South Highway 160. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. 89049. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. % 702-482-6258. 89049. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. PO Box 65. Suite 9B. % 702-964-1207. Berg. PO Box 725. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . PO Box 1149. Timberline Outfitters. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. 89447. % 702-964-2145. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. Timberline Outfitters. PO Box 168. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. James S. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch.. % 702-482-6422. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard.
$-$$. 604 Main Street. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. $-$$. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. In short. 9000 North 5th Avenue. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. % 702-727-5100. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. which has 30 rooms and a pool. . while the inn offers laundry services. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. including a heated pool. With 110 rooms. % 702-553-2333.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. 1201 South Highway 160. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. % 702553-2912. % 702-553-2250. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. The Exchange Club Motel. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. hair salon. $-$$. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. $-$$. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. A lounge with live entertainment. The other two motels are the El Portal. casino and lounge. was built in 1905. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. % 702-553-2225. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. a casino with live 21. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. US 95 at First Street. $. % 702-4853431. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. Highway 160 at Loop Road. $-$$. % 800-508-9493. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. along with a pool and honeymoon room. non-smoking rooms and a pool. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. has 32 rooms. $. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. a convenience store. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. a restaurant. There are 60 rooms. 420 West Main Street. $-$$. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. $-$$. though. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. $-$$. Don’t worry. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. % 702-727-5445. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. lounge.
% 702-945-2444. % 702-482-6238. % 702-945-3352. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. 323 Main Street. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. $. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. Even dogs are welcome. There are 103 rooms. % 702-482-3577. location. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. This place has it all: 75 rooms. It has 94 rooms. % 702-482-6291. restaurants. workout equipment. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. RV parking and free continental breakfast. $$. 1301 5th Street. Some of the larger. including four two-bedroom units. with a restaurant. $. If you’re into chains. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. 1402 5th Street. The . 521 North Main Street. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. comes highly rated. $. Dating back to 1908. 255 Main Street. $. $. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. Adjacent to Walker Lake. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. Just a block away. % 702-482-9777. RV hookups. % 702482-5920. a restaurant and free coffee. free movies and is close to the convention center. 826 Main Street. and the sprawling Station House. which has 93 rooms. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. 100 South Main Street. a restaurant and bar. lounge. and the 33-room Clown Motel. lounge with entertainment. pool and free in-room coffee. $. 1 Cliff House Road. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. arcade and laundry. % 702-482-6202. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. $$. $. a casino. The Jim Butler Motel. % 702-482-6224. 1100 Main Street. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. % 702-482-3511. a Jacuzzi and a pool. a casino. $. Location. $. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. 100 North Main Street. $-$$. 700 Main Street. with 40 rooms. % 702-945-2660. two restaurants. The Best Western Desert Lodge. at very reasonable rates. a heated pool and a small play area. 540 F Street. % 702-945-3321. also has a pool. has been catering to travelers since 1943. the Butler has 25 rooms. has 39 rooms.
915 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702-945-3316. $. a pool. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. and the Rocket. Run by the Masini family. $-$$. 965 Sierra Highway. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. $-$$$. $$-$$$. restaurants. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. including dozens of suites. has five rooms. $$-$$$. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. with a 24-hour casino. $. 2827 Highway 208. which at last count had 1. live entertainment. 720 Sierra Highway. on the corner of 5th and J streets. Jacuzzi. entertainment. bars. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. a lounge. Jacuzzi. with blueprints for hundreds more. % 800-346-7721. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702-465-2959. golf course. $-$$. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. which has two non-smoking rooms. which has 14 rooms. $$. % 702-945-2573. . % 702-945-2143. airport shuttle. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms.900 or so residents. which has 14 rooms. 301 Mesa Boulevard. % 702-945-2544.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. % 800-621-0187. tennis courts. pool. Jacuzzi. 390 North Sandhill Road. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. % 702-463-2991.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. movie theater and kids’ play area. $-$$. fitness center and live music. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. The Casa Blanca. a 925-seat showroom. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. pool and movie theater. % 702-346-7444. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. $-$$. $$. 694 Sierra Highway. $. a pool and a hot tub. % 702-465-2573. % 800-346-4611. % 800-896-4567. pool. % 702-463-2481. bowling alley. a golf course.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. pool and spa. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. 11 North Main Street. family fun center and an airport shuttle. % 702-465-2341. the Hawthorne. has 700 rooms. a pair of family-style restaurants. To find a quieter environment. % 702-463-2998. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. Just west of Smith in Wellington. has 67 rooms. formerly Players Island. $$. RV park and four bungalows. various restaurants. $. 39 North Center Street. $$-$$$.
The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. Flying saucer parking is out back. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. Besides. pharmacy and bank. % 702-726-3291. $. % 702-9625404. Rose Garden. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. $-$$. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. 601 South Highway 160. % 702-727-6440. is open 24 hours a day. and welcomes pets. the Silver Spur. 100 LaCour Street.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. 884 A Street. $. also have full-service restaurants. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. % 702-727-0909. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. At Saddle West Casino. $. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. Stagestop Casino. which has 22 rooms. % 702-727-7777. % 702-727-2404.99. % 702-729-2515. % 702-727-7300. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. No fast food. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. % 702-962-5551. 100 West Stagecoach Road. which has five rooms. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. . on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. 1220 South Highway 160. $-$$. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. a restaurant and bar. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. % 702-726-3106. % 702726-3777. has 13 rooms. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. 450 Front Street. % 702-751-7777. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. and the buffet starts at $2. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. $.
and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. fill the menu. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. 11 North Main Street. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. 348 North Main Street. 570 E Street. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. % 702-945-1700. has a great $7. % 702-4823885. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. % 702-553-2368.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. 1291 5th Street. 923 5th Street. also have family-style restaurants. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. % 702-945-5253. % 702-482-6202. is the home of two restaurants. including excellent seafood. and Burro Inn. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. Maggies. 100 North Main Street. The . % 702-463-2481. % 702-945-2727. 501 I Street. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. % 702-9452994. Yerington Casino West. Traditional American and Continental fare. The Station House. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. % 702-553-2111. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. % 702-945-3321.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. The Exchange Club. % 702-5532225. 540 F Street. % 702-945-3320. also has a 24-hour café. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. 785 E Street. you could do worse than El Marques. % 702-945-3908. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. % 800508-9493. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. % 702482-9777. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. try Happy Buddha. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. 1100 Main Street. open until 9 PM.
are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. serves breakfast. satisfying and never-ending.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. % 702463-2868. % 702-463-2054. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. Peavine Campground is set at 6. % 800-346-7721. is like a blast from the 50s. % 702-7263194. The Mason Valley Country Club. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. % 702-727-2314. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. Carl’s Burgers. The Virgin River Hotel. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Dini’s Luck Club. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. % 702-4633707. along with the usual buffet. % 800-621-0187. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. 11 North ALT 95. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. 702-726-3138. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. 2281 West Scales Way. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. has a 24-hour coffee shop. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. The Casa Blanca. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. lunch and dinner. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. 111 Highway 208. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. which serves breakfast. To reach the campground from Tonopah. % 702-4623300. Two blocks up. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. 45 North Main Street. % 800-896-4567. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. There’s even an indoor workout facility. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of .
For information. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek.100foot level. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. To reach the campground from Tonopah. From here. % 702-687-6100. For directions. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. see On Foot. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. contact the BLM. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. the unpaved road goes south briefly.800 feet in the Monitor Range. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. .200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. through Belmont. providing access to fishing and hiking. The campground is another three miles away. privately owned Desert Lake Campground.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. % 702-4826286. From Tonopah. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. % 702-945-3373. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground.700 feet. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. There is no running water and no fee. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. offers sites for $11 per night. above. There are 11 sites set at 6. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. To reach the campground from Tonopah.
Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. 1997. Falcon Press Publishing. Noonday Press.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. 1995. 1997. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. Frank Amato Publications. 1993. 1998. Moon Publishing. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. 1996. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. 1994. published by the State of Nevada. American Automobile Association. 1995. American Automobile Association. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. Basin and Range by John McPhee. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. Henry Holt and Company. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Falcon Press Publishing. 1990. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. They are listed in alphabetical order. DeLorme. David Communications. 1993. Suggested Reading . Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches.
Gem Guides Book Company. . Falcon Press Publishing. 1997. American & Geographic World Publishing. Bischoff. 1993. Jr. 1995. Maturi. Wilderness Press. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. The Globe Pequot Press.. Stolley. La Siesta Press. White. 1993. 1997. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. 1997. Falcon Press Publishing. 1969. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Mojave Books. 1992. Clark. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Legend and Description by David J. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History.
Pony Express territory. 104-107. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 169-170 Anasazi people. restaurants. camping. 102. 13. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 10. 146. 43-44.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. camping. horseback riding. 187-190. 155 boating. outfitters.183. 2. 198. 117. 129-130 bungee jumping. 17. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 142. 152. 197. biking. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 199-201. 144 Beatty: accommodations. touring. 181-182. Reno-Tahoe area. 54-55. 117-119. 15-16. 179. 27 books. 163-164. Mount Jefferson. 28. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 35. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 113. events. 132-133. 104. Pony Express territory. 118. Reno-Tahoe area. see transportation Carson City. 3135. 125-128. 91 Barley Creek. 185. 26-27 buses. 10-12. safety rules. 177 Angel Lake: camping. specific towns airlines. 144. festivals. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 75-76. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. biking. price scale. Las Vegas territory. 199. see also camping. 193 Aurora. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 32. fishing. 8386. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 124 auto racing. see water sports car rental. 38. camping. 182-183. Pioneer territory. Leonard Rock Shelter. 194. camping. 49. 86. transportation. Elko. touring. 46. 169. 198. 135. 48-49. safety rules. 94-95. 187-188 biking. restaurants. biking. 126. 187-190. touring. 15-16. 137 Candelaria. 36. 179. see also petroglyphs. 103. 119-120. 78 BLM. 41-43. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. restaurants. 192 Big Smoky Valley. skydiving. hiking. touring. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. Las Vegas. pictographs art galleries. 200 altitude sickness. 92-96. 17. 42 burros. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 121. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). see transportation air tours. Cottonwood Valley. 78. 142. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 174 canoeing. Bonneville Salt Flats. 168-169. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 152. Las Vegas area. 123. restaurants. fishing. 183-184. Lovelock Indian Cave. Ichthyosaur State Park. see also zoos. 120-123. special events. 117-118. 89. wild. 182. wagon trips. hiking outfit- Index . 115-116 ballooning. 174-175 Austin. 144 backpacking. events. 194. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. Pioneer territory. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 50-52. 77. 132. 193. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 156160. 200 Basque people. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 186 Belmont. 85. 123 Baker Lake Trail. accommodations. 184. Pioneer territory. accommodations. 15-16 bird watching. 29. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 154 animal life. 13-15. 67-70. camping. 193-197. Reno-Tahoe area. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 76. 115. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 164. Pony Express territory. 118. 27. hiking. 131. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 144. 67 bowling.
camping. Toquima Cave. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 174-175. hiking. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 35-36. transportation. 143-144. 125. 152. Reno-Tahoe territory. 43-44. 4-5 Gardnerville. 153 Chimney Springs. Candelaria. 149-150.. 120. 170. 119. 78 casinos. 121. Cowboy country. 188-189 Clemens. fishing. touring. hiking. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 65 gambling. camping. 132-133. 179. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. hiking outfitters. 102-104. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 98. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 109. touring. 120-121. 134-135. restaurants. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 112 Genoa. 29. 13-15. Dunn Hatchery. 77. 119-120. 74. 142. 179. hiking. 89. 119. 115 Gold Center. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 150-151. Lake Tahoe area. 171-172 Gold Point. horseback riding. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 155-156. 109 Glacier Trail. 155. 118.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. John C. 124. 6-7 ters. 187-190. 200 Cowboy Country. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 174. 100. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 4. 184. 44-48. 176. Pioneer territory. fishing. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 194-195. see events fish. 75. 157-158. camping. 179. Midas. Jungo. outfitters. 139 cruises. auto racing. 177. 180 Earth Connections. Pioneer territory. touring. restaurants. 137. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 12. restaurants. accommodations. 168. 125. events. 82. 15-16 Fremont. Rochester Mining District. 3. outfitters. 86. Metropolis. 125. 106. 185. outfitters. mercury warnings. fishing. Pony Express territory. 117. camping. Hamilton. 12. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. biking. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. outfitters. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. restaurants. 171. 139140 Ely. Shermantown. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 110. 15-16. 179. camping. Rhyolite. Las Vegas territory. 160 Goshute Mountains. 112. 109. 144. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 167. 142 Great Basin. camping. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. safety rules. 163-164. 109. touring. 137. 138-139. Las Vegas area. sport-climbing ratings. 161-162. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. restaurants. Eberhardt. 80. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 88. 106 diving. 152-155. 98 fossils. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 170-171 Denio Junction. 108 events: Cowboy country. 170. pupfish. 75. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 126-127. 70. 22. 175 climate. 192. fishing. accommodations. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 73. springfish. 190-193. 137. 112. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 177. 139. 190 . see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 176. 70-71. 186 elk. 147-148 Eberhardt. 122-123. 116. 121-122. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 137. 185. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 17. 131. camping. 127. skiing.5 Cathedral Gorge. 67. 18-19 climbing. Las Vegas area. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. Gold Center. accommodations. 116-117. 188-189 fishing. 111. 126. Lehman Caves. Samuel. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 46 Comstock Lode. Northumberland Cave. touring. 14 Colorado River. 143. Treasure City. Lovelock Indian Cave. 37-41. 169. 40. Reno-Tahoe area. camping. 97. special events. 182. 79. Camp Winfield Scott. 74 Death Valley National Park. 87 Dayton. 172 golf. 83. 178.
boating outfitters. 4WD trail. Reno. 75. 103 Hamilton. touring. 116-117. 111. 146. camping. hiking. touring. skiing. 188-189. 77. 149. description of. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. 80-81 hiking. restaurants. skiing. 130. 1. 47 lakes. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. Nevada. Las Vegas territory. 32 horseback riding. outfitters. balloning and soaring. 41. biking. 20. 1-6 Hoover Dam. hiking. transportation. 46. Reno-Tahoe territory. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 132 Lexington Arch. 99-100. camping. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 187 Manhattan. Las Vegas area. 36. 46. 153. 145-150. 127. 118. hiking outfitters. 32-33. 106. 118 Lone Mountain. 120 Incline Village. 83-84. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 162. camping. 64. 112-117. 164. camping. 119 Index . 66. Pioneer territory. 65. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 176. Midas Hot Spring. hiking. 82. events. 86. 156. 53-54. touring. Reno-Tahoe territory. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 140-141 land. events. 3536. 62. restaurants. 47. 43. Pony Express territory. 39. touring and transportation. 193. restaurants. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 55. transportation. 149-150. 150. 165-167. fishing. Pony Express territory. 38. 79. camping. 160. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. water sports. 49-50. accommodations. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 90 helicopter tours. 158. hiking. 29-31. 162. 78. state. Pioneer territory. 57. 88. 21-22. map. 63-66. touring. 93. 98. Las Vegas territory. 78-79 Jungo. snow sports outfitters. 32-33 Lake Mohave. restaurants. 70 Humboldt National Forest. transportation. 50-52. horseback riding. 107. 179 Kingston. 90. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 64. Walley’s Hot Springs. biking. 186-187. 159. Pioneer territory. 102. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. air tours. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. Kyle Hot Spring. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 195-196. 177 mercury warnings. 54. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 181-187. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. restaurants. 198. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 41-43. 82. Las Vegas. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 31-35. Pony Express territory. 150. touring. 13-15. RenoTahoe territory. Cowboy country. special events. 60. hiking outfitters. 91 information sources. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 200-201. 48. fishing. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. restaurants. 101. 28. camping. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 166. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 37-40. 23-29. outfitters. 148-149 Humboldt River. 57-58. touring. 110-112.Index Great Basin National Park. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 37-41. 117 hotels. 24. 129-131. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 125. 39 history: Cowboy country. 83. camping. outfitters. 151. 137 kayaking. 52-53. 83. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 152. 192. 40-41. 163. camping. 48-49. watersports. 45. 46. 91-92. see air tours Hemenway Park. 148-149 jeep tours. 40. touring. 141-142. 44 Las Vegas territory.
see biking Mount Charleston. 25. Nevada State Mu- . hiking. 170. 187 Mojave Desert. 127 pictographs. 181 Moapa. 61. 174. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 199-200. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 73. 142. National Automobile Museum. 33. 106 nuclear testing. 107. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 11 Mosquito Creek. 23. 183. Humbolt Museum. 2. Las Vegas Art Museum. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 72. May Museum and Arboretum. 73. 193-194. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 108. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 10. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 25. 35. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 98. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 83. Eureka Sentinel Museum. Piper’s Opera House. 3-4. 78. 43. 139. 189-190 Muir. horseback riding. 197-198. 153 Northumberland Cave. touring. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 139. 173. 70. 188. 107. 69. 2. 25. Marshall Mint Museum. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. Desert Valley Museum. 171. Nevada Historical Society. Colorado River Museum. 200. 158. 71. 196197. 73. 25. 69.206 n Index seum. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. fishing. 69. 109-110. 34. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 75. 4. Mineral County Museum. see biking mountain biking. 8182 Mesquite. 34. 165 nuclear waste. hiking. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 200 motels. 2. Marzen House Museum. 77. Wilbur D. 174. 61. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 26. 29 Mount Jefferson. Mark Twain Museum. 177. 71. 165. 4. 67. 199. 68. restaurants. 31. 23 Overton: touring. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 109. restaurants. 61 music and theater. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 25-26. 199 Metropolis. Nevada State Library & Archives. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 26. touring. 61. 153. Beam Fine Art Gallery. White Pine Public Museum. Guinness World of Records Museum. 71. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. hiking outfitters. 126. 103. touring. Northeastern Nevada Museum. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. accommodations. 29. 142 Midas. 69. 175. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. see accommodations motorcycles. 26. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 25. 73. Western Folklife Center. Central Nevada Museum. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. Fleischmann Planetarium. fishing. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 34. 174. 91. 72-73. 102. 135. 175. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. Liberace Museum. 73. 180 Minden: events. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 177. outfitters. 163. 86. 68. 79. The Way It Was Museum. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. John. 171. camping. 26. Roberts House Museum. Gold Well Open Air Museum. Clark County Heritage Museum. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 133. 135136. 8. 167-168 Paiutes. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. The Castle. 61. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 113 Mount Rose: camping. Stewart Indian Museum. 43. 34. 134 petroglyphs. Brewery Arts Center. 70-71 mines and mining. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 69. camping. Capitol Building and Museum. Lost City Museum. 80-81 Native American festivals. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. fishing. 177. 32. 68. skiing and snowboarding. 178. 173. Keck Minerals Museum. 173. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. Lyon County Muserum. see events Naval Air Station Fallon.
hiking. 54. accommodations. 77-78. 169 Pyramid Lake. 74 races. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 79. outfitters. 138 rock climbing. 193. RenoTahoe area. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 163. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge.” 4 silver. fishing. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 134. special events. 106 Siegel. 190. see skiing snowmobiling. 180. 163. 144. 143. 193. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 167. 90 sport climbing. 106 Spooner Lake. hiking. 80 pronghorn antelope. 146-147. camping. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 9697. 173 Index . 17. touring. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 66. 90 soaring. 197 rafting. 113. see climbing springfish. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 79-80. biking. 146.Index Pioche: accommodations. 76. 142. 53-54. hiking. 85. 17. 176 rodeos. Las Vegas territory. 197. snow sports outfitters. 117. 42. 150-151. 198. 88 Shermantown. bike. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. fishing. 52 pupfish. touring. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 112. water sports. 89. hiking and climbing. 160-163. 145 Stateline: accommodations. see mines and mining skiing. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. camping. biking. 88. 48-49 snowboarding. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 83-84. accommodations. 156. 181. transportation. 92-93. 87. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 180 Pioneer territory. 145-146 prostitution. 179. 195. 78. skiing. auto. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 54. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. restaurants. restaurants. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 82. 17. skiing. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 89-91 skydiving. 187. see events price codes. 143 Rachel. 17. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 36. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). hiking. camping. Reno-Tahoe area. 154. 185-186. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 153 Sparks. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. horse. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 76. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 104. 59-61. 170 rivers. 98. 123-125. 179 Searchlight. 84-85 swimming. 115. fishing. camping. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 129-130. 77. 12. camping. 98. Benjamin “Bugsy. 26-27. 49-50. biking. 200 temperature chart. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 78. 65 Pony Express territory. 94 special events. touring. 9 Sand Mountain. 144. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 96-97. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 163-164. Pioneer territory. 109 Shoshone people. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 114-115 theater. touring. restaurants. climbing and hiking. 13 Price Lakes. fishing. 9-10. 93-94. see events Round House Art Gallery. 76. Las Vegas area. see climbing rock hunting. 91. 186-187. 144. 84. Pony Express territory. fishing. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. motorcycle. 197-199. 165-201 plant life. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters.
Winnemucca. 152-155. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 26-27. Ely Elk Viewing Area. camping. restaurants. 185. wildlife and bird watching. camping. outfitters. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 147-148. 127. Santa Rosa Mountains. events. 61. 139. 155. 176 wineries. camping. 66. climbing and hiking. 41. hiking. 149. 182-183. 144. 193 Walker Lake. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 73. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. 55. restaurants. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 143. 143. 150. 155. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. 31. 156-157. restaurants. Arc Dome Wilderness. buses. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 150. 151 Wilson Canyon. 139-140 Treasure City. Pioneer territory. 176. 75. Hemenway Park. touring. events. 67. 151 Wovoka. 80. 174. Walker Lake. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 39 vineyards. 117 Toquima Cave. 76. 178. touring. 62. touring. 163-164. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 146. Goshute Mountains. camping. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 34-35. 98. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. restaurants. rental cars. Amtrak. 109 trees. 159-160. 193. 33. 192. 68. 168 zoos. fishing. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 163. Echo Canyon State Park. camping. 117. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 191 UFOs. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 183-184. 62. Jack’s Valley Road. High Rock Canyon. 190-193. 174 walking. 134 Twain.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 153-154. 44-48. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 172. horseback riding. Pony Express territory. 20. 32. 110. Wilson Canyon. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 29. 38. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 145-146. 160-161. 30-31. 155 . camping. 29-30. 35. 80-81. Ruby Mountains. 97. Pioneer territory. 95. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. hiking. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. Oxbow Nature Study Area. see plant life tufas. Earth Connections. 196. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. see transportation transportation: airports. 85. 111. 135-137. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 31. 102. 200-201. 104. 89. 25 Topaz Lake. special events. 168-169. 176 Yerington: accommodations. Ruby Marsh. 112. 199. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. Las Vegas territory. Table Mountain Wilderness. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. outfitters. restaurants. hiking. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Lake Mead. 144. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 188-189. 164. 77-78. touring. 159. Reno-Tahoe territory. 45. 127. touring. touring. water sports. 177. 187. 83. 71. hiking outfitters. 179. 191-192. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 86 Wells: accommodations. 119-120. fishing. events. Cleve Creek Campground. Mark. 167. 162. outfitters. 79-80. 157. 106 trains. 62. hiking outfitters. 71-74 Virgin River.
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