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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. as the top tourism destination in the US. which covers most of Nevada. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. In fact. horses. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. you can have the whole wild. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. you’ll know better. Florida.500 and 10. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. giant sloths. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. According to author John Hart. In fact. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. however. that’s good news. For anyone who loves the outdoors. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. pausing on . These mammoths. bison. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. half-pound hot dogs. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. Among the 50 states.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. About 27 million of them. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska.” and for good reason. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7.
In the south. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. Exactly 50 years later. . however. hand tools. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. shells. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. In the 12th century. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. wetlands and springs. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. followed in Garces’ footsteps. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. Many prime archeological sites. In 1776. The Northern Paiutes. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. Jedediah Smith. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. the first European entered Nevada. fish hooks. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. points.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. established trade routes.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. His party wintered in California. By about 500 AD. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. including southern Nevada.
In 1859. as it came to be called. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. swelling the population well into five figures. was dispatched to map the area. Fremont. Introduction . which helped open the gateway to the West. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. and. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. Nevada became a state on Halloween. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. then returned east along the route the next year. In 1845. In 1830. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. By 1857. but the Utah Territory government. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. who would later become a war hero. In 1843 and ’44. but abandoned it two years later. continued to oversee Nevada. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. the Mormons were the first white residents. and headed over the Sierras. the church established the State of Deseret. encountering Pyramid Lake. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. covering most of Utah and Nevada. John C. In 1849. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. 1864.History n 3 In the north. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. with Brigham Young as governor. dominated by the church. The Comstock Lode. DC. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. Eight years later the first wagon train. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. camping at Las Vegas. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. In 1833.
Meanwhile. Warriors under Numaga. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. but was ambushed. signed a treaty with the federal government. began making money and the boom was on.000 people in 1960. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. violence escalated. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. then underground tests for 30 more. was of a classy. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. In 1860. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. bringing town sites. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. was struck in Virginia City. later known as the Nevada Test Site. In 1874. upscale Vegas. however. commerce and industry. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. killed two-thirds of them. In 1873. the mother of all lodes. In the teens and ’20s. chief of the Northern Paiutes. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. Carson City. Howard Hughes sud- . the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. particularly in southern Nevada. Winnemucca. Siegel’s vision. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. Ironically. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. Reno and the surrounding areas. In 1855. opened in 1950. then picked up again in the early 1900s. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. son of Winnemucca. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. the Big Bonanza. the first true hotel-casino. Streets were laid out. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. Then in 1966. the Flamingo soon reopened.
The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. . moving to the region in record numbers. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. a land dominated by a mobile population. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. DC. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. Winnemucca. To many. Mom and their 2. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. How much is too much. trappers. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. But the explosion has not been without fallout. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. today there are master-planned communities. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. miners. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. however. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. places like Elko. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. By 1970. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. and Americans have become moths to the flame. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. find enough water. The entire West will be watching what transpires.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. are reaping the windfall. Fallon and Mesquite. This time.
the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. Named by explorer John C. In the north.839foot Matterhorn. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada.063 feet. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. across a sagebrush-covered basin. Depending on who’s counting. with nine ranges topping 11. Get the idea? After all.000 feet in the space of a few miles. the Carson and the Humboldt. The Colorado River . This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. On the other side of the state. The notion of Nevada as a flat. hills and uplands. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. then up another range. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. towers over Great Basin National Park.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. gurgle through the northern part of the state. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers.000 feet to nearly 12. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. and so on. Yes. Here. Wheeler Peak. 13. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. Nevada even has its own 10. Near Las Vegas.000 feet. down a range. Fremont in 1844. The roof of Nevada is 13. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. the Spring Mountains soar from 2.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. dry. lakes. then disappear into their respective “sinks. reservoirs and other watery bodies. In fact. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. down another range.
For the greens. are the only reliable. in the remote north near Jarbidge. In the 1970s. the southeastern corner of Nevada. natural sources of running water. establishing 77. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. most notably Lake Tahoe.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. the largest alpine lake in North America. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno.000 acres. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. only 65. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. it’s an uphill climb all the way. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. In 1989. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. a great inland sea that 50.500 square miles of western Nevada. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. Lower and drier. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada.000-acre Great Basin National Park. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere.000 years ago covered 8.
000 feet above sea level. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock.000 feet. In the wetter western Nevada ranges.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. The recommendations have been under review for years. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. 14 national recreation areas. the soil supports . is generally found throughout the state between 5. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. greasewood. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. such as rabbitbrush. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. Death Valley. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. with its tiny. Still. The squat Utah juniper. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. horsebrush and shadescale. particularly the Sierra Nevadas.000 and 8. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. At elevations above 6. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. Apart from aspens.
or jimson weed. hallucinogenic sacred datura. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. however. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. Washoe pine. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. hedgehog and barrel. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. At the other extreme.000 feet. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. which is actually a type of yucca. which make up just 1% of the land. Above the desert floor. The Joshua tree. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada.000 years. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. The rare. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. In the mountains. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. lodgepole pine. bristlecone pine. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. The king of Great Basin vegetation. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. along with alder. ponderosa pine. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. the mountain lion. Black bears. willow and dogwood. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . up to 5. prickly pear. creosote bush has an oily. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. blooms by night here. the official state grass. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. western white pine.
both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. Blacktail jackrabbits. fox. chuckwalla. The desert bighorn sheep. seen on Nevada’s license plates. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. also live in the Mojave. Ironically. brown. the black widow and brown recluse. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. with Lahontan cutthroat. skunk. America’s two poisonous spiders. redtailed hawk. In the air over the desert. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. Meanwhile. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. weasel. kangaroo rats. burrowing owl and canyon wren. badger. Trout are the favorite of anglers. help comes from hunters. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. rainbow. coyote. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. greater roadrunner. golden and Dolly Varden . prairie falcon. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. Snakes include several types of rattlers. brook. while mule deer are abundant. beaver. pika. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. Gambel’s quail. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat.
Cowboy Country. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. such as visitors bureaus. Reno-Tahoe Territory. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. covering its history. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. on snow and in the air. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. like almost every other Nevada visitor. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. culture and most attractive features. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Along with detailed information on where to go. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. on water. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . A section on Touring follows. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. on land. This section also includes sources for expert information. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. broken down by specific locales. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory.
With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . . . . . . . Up to $50 per day $$ . . . . . . . $50 to $100 $$$ . . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . . . . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . Hiking. Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness.12 n Introduction ing chart. . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. so use these symbols only as a general reference. . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . . . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . Trails may be gone. . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . forethought and patience. . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . . . Finally. . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . . . . . Backpacking. $100 to $175 $$$$ . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . . . .
as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.Adventures n 13 Finally.Boulder hopping.0 to . using the hands.Easy hiking. the most popular among serious rock climbers. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. For Class 5 routes. . although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible.Climbing. the lower numbers (. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . known as the Yosemite Decimal System. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb.14 (and sometimes beyond). occasionally using hands Class 4 .Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb.0 to . The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . Class 2 . it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. As this guide goes to press. ranging from .Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 . so help is usually a long way away. Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 .
Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Don’t travel alone. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. By their nature. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. use common sense before you get into trouble. Always take fresh water with you. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. legend. Assistance can take hours or days. taking into account personal experience. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. dehydration and lightning. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. not hard-and-fast rules. In the arid country of Nevada. climbing partners. Give them descriptions of yourself. If the plan changes. As with all outdoor activities. Be aware of conditions. and the weather when determining the safest course of action.10. until all holds disappear at . climbers enter the realm of myth. Storms are more common in the afternoon. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. Beyond that.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. clothing. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. Begin hiking early in the day. Pack spare everything – food. then amended by subsequent climbers. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. n n n n n .
tools. jack. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. but a powerful. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. preferably one with a large gas tank. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. four-wheel-drive vehicle. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. Not one of those trendy. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. spare belts. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. . The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. extra gas. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. high-clearance job. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. water and fluids. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. Arizona.
n If water is in limited supply. n If you find a traveled road. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. minimize talking and eating. 85096. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. left out of popular literature. Mountain biking in Nevada. stay put. Do not ration water. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. when you left and where you are headed. stay on it. Phoenix. PO Box 39340. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. of course. . Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. drink it as needed. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. For more information on desert survival. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. leave a note telling searchers who you are. The rest of Nevada. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. however. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. in wilderness areas). is more popular than ever. n If you have water. contact DARES. AZ. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle.
and gigantic Lake Mead. Meanwhile. And where there are tourists. At these higher elevations. Many streams. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. Fishing. but take extra care. Soaring Where there is Vegas. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. lakes and reservoirs. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Skydiving. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. Ballooning. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. n In The Air Scenic Flights. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. there are tourists. the gem of the Sierras. there are all types of sky-high adventures.
summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. If thunderstorms threaten. get out of lowlying areas. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. although they can occur at any time of year. . throwing rain. For those who like to watch. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. Laughlin. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. temperatures above 110° are common. but despite the obvious danger. Summer and early fall can be blistering. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. In the Great Basin. These storms are known to appear with little warning. on the Colorado River. Leave the high altitudes as well. Flashfloods are the predictable result.
NV 89710. Carson City. NV 89712. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. Baker. In the mountains. Capitol Complex. www. Nevada Division of Wildlife. basin winters can be chilly. UT. Nevada Department of Transportation. In southern Nevada.com. NV 89311. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. NV 89703. Ogden. % 702-687-4384. windy. In the north. Great Basin National Park.travelnevada. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. % 800-NEVADA-8. 1100 Valley Road. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. % 702-785-6500. Nevada Division of State Parks. US Forest Service. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. Reno. rainy and occasionally snowy. % 801-625-5182. 850 Harvard Way. % 702234-7331. % 702-687-4219. NV 89502. Carson City. % 702-688-1500.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. Carson City. 1263 South Stewart Street. too. Bureau of Land Management. Reno. . In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. 84401. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. Nevada Commission on Tourism. Intermountain Region. For information on specific locales. 324 25th Street. 1300 South Curry Street. see the listings that accompany each chapter. NV 89520.
or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. Inside the city limits. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. in plain view of the casinos. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. cheap food. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. . both prehistoric and otherwise.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. lounge shows – and recently. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum.000-year-old petroglyphs. closer. try hiking to an 11.000-foot peak.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
The museum is open Monday through Saturday. is the Liberace Museum. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest.95 for seniors and students. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . 8 AM to 4:45 PM. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. Just off the glittering Strip. $4. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. Showmanship. Dedicated to Mr. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. Yes. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. but no less extravagant. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday.50 for seniors. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas.95 for adults. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. % 702-895-3011.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. 10 AM to 5 PM.95 for adults. features work by students. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). 1 PM to 5 PM. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. 9 AM to 9 PM. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. Seasonal streams. Southeast of the Strip. Ham Concert Hall. % 702-798-5595. Sunday. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. giant. actual cosmopolitan. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. faculty and invited artists. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. % 702-895-3893. % 702-895-3381. $3. The tax-deductible admission is $6. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Admission is $4. call % 702-895-3801. 8 AM to 5 PM. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. % 702-363-1921. The museum is open Monday through Friday.
The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. 8 AM to sunset. saloon. % 702-486-5413. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. under Adventures on Foot. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. 8 AM to 5 PM. Back on US 95. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. 5 PM in the winter. later during summer months. With structures dating back to 1864. petting zoo. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. The park is open daily. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. trail rides and a “real” Western town. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . one-way loop drive is early morning. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. Charleston. wife of a German munitions tycoon. 8 AM to 11 PM. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. The park is open daily. the road to Mt. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. % 702-875-4141. have been unearthed here. (See below. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. Admission is $4. The park is open daily. The restaurant and bar are open daily. % 702-875-4191. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car.) The best time to take the 13-mile. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. Today there is a restaurant. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. 7 AM to dusk. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. The admission is $5 per vehicle. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock.
There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. % 702-872-5408. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. 17-mile. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. under On Wheels.000 vertical feet of runs. Charleston Lodge. At the northern edge of the reservation. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. The 1. For ski rental and shuttle bus information.) . where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous.918 feet. (See below. Bighorn sheep. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. under On Foot. Nevada’s state animal. under Adventures and Camping. (See below. % 702-646-3401. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. Charleston Loop.) Pitch a tent. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. (See below.) After the hike.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. elevation 11. completing the Mt. desolate valley. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. % 702-872-7098. and its 1. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. In the winter. the Mt. see below under On Snow. % 702-872-5500. under Camping. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. (See below. % 702385-2SKI. Charleston Hotel.
% 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. Airlines Air 21. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines.
% 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-GO-VALUE .30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International.
Call % 800USA-RAIL. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. stopping downtown. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. 444 Hotel Plaza. NV 89109. % 800-332-5333. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. Did it work? Judge for yourself. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. The museum is open daily.50 for adults. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. On the north side of Boulder City. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. % 702-294-1888. Gray Line Tours.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. 711 East Desert Inn Road. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. Admission is $1. % 702-455-7955.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. 3150 Paradise Road. . % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. 1830 South Boulder Highway. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. % 702-735-1616. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. $1 for seniors and children under 16. NV 89109.
Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. All of 726 feet high. for information on camping. boating and diving. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. Children under 10 are free. Phoenix and Los Angeles. fishing. Las Vegans. 89005.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. Hoover Dam took 5. 500 South Boulder Highway. % 702-293-2034. swimming. and 45 feet thick at the top. 660 thick at the base. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. head back toward Boulder City. $2. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. % 702-293-8907. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. The cost is $5 for adults. % 702-565-8591. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. 89105. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. 100 Nevada Highway. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. Hoover also created Lake Mead.) Be sure to heed the . Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. (See On Water below. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge.
Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. which rests on the Virgin River. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. Back on Nevada 167. Go straight to reach Henderson. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. From the visitor center. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. explain the geology and forces of erosion. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. % 702-293-6180. Just beyond the bay. % 702-397-2088. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). nearly five miles off the highway. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. a public swimming and boating area. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. Beyond here. The displays in the visitor center. thank you. . another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15.
Don Laughlin started here with a motel. campground and fishing and swimming spots. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. with motel. Admission is a $1 donation. under Adventures. relives those days. Arizona. 125°. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. East of Searchlight 14 miles. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. % 702-297-1464. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. South of here is camping. in Bullhead City. Nevada’s record-high temperature. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. % 520-754-3399. see below. % 520-754-3272. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. 9 AM to 5 PM. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. a campground and marina. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley.000 visitors a month. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. the town was a gold. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. (For details on all three. Named for a brand of matches. % 520-754-3628. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. Saturday. % 800-46-4584 . The museum is open Monday through Friday.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. % 702-297-1682. 9 AM to 1 PM. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. bar and bait shop. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. constructed his Riverside Casino. 355 Highway 95. on Lake Mojave. % 520-754-4606.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum.
% 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. May is the busiest month. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. 1555 South Casino Drive. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 702-798-6405.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. host- . % 702-876-3380. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. % 800-227-5254. as many as 6. % 800-227-5245. Special Events February In February. % 800-736-6247 United Express. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. % 800-331-1212 Budget. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. In Laughlin. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 310-448-1822.
36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. Later in the month. % 702-457-2797. Another balloon festival. % 702-293-2034. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. and the National Finals Rodeo. % 800-637-1006. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. October Art in the Park. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. take place in Boulder City. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. % 702-870-1221. % 702-293-4857. % 702434-0848. % 702-2939256. the Las Vegas Classic. % 702-386-3926. % 702-898-6565. to town. Navaho and Mojave peoples. % 702-293-1611. floats into Laughlin. the Parade of Lights. % 800-227-5245. % 702-8953900. % 702687-5777. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. also takes place in October. to the campus of UNLV. % 702-452-8066. a confluence of Southern Paiute. blows in. . % 702-631-7000. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. the International Black Heritage Festival. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. % 702-457-5775. August In August. % 702-4541212. to the waters of Lake Mead. to downtown. takes place in Vegas. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. a three-day balloon rally. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno.
200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.11). The Choad Warrior (5.12a). At the end of a 90-minute approach. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas.11+). On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. Graveyard Waltz (5. in fact.9) has 1. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. To the west.11d) offers more advanced routes. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. is to mountain bikers.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains.8). teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. Other routes in- . Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. so take extra precautions when adventuring here. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. Utah. so chalk often stays put for months. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot.11). especially in winter months. Sheep Trail (5. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. Crimson Chrysalis (5. Red Rock attracts free climbers.11). Stratocaster (5. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber.9). Chicken Eruptus (5. At nearby Willow Springs. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon.11b).
The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. 17 miles round-trip.12). providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. Chockstone Press. & For more information. See Outfitters. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. an easy six-mile round-trip. elevation 11. About seven miles from the visitor center.000 feet in four miles. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. The South Loop Trail. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. The 3. . Rainbow Buttress (5. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles.000 feet. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. consult the Bible of local climbers. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment.000 feet. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. toward a ridge at 11. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. The trail switchbacks time and again. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus.8) and Eagle Dance (5. Following the fork. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. page 41. At the aforementioned fork. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. to savor the 300-mile views.10 or 5.918 feet.6). The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. gaining 3. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. ending at a small dam and the spring. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. published by the American Alpine Club. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs.
To the northwest. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. the trail climbs 1. thunderstorms and snow. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8.000 feet above the desert. contact the US Forest Service.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. For trail information and weather and safety updates. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City.4 miles. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. covering two miles and gaining 1. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers.000 feet to a saddle. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. At lower elevations. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. gaining 1. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. Mountain T Ranch. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. Beginning on a dirt road. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven.000 feet into the northeastern sky. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. . A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. Never take these altitudes lightly.
which is marked by a post. PO Box 1. % 702-364-8687. Las Vegas 89117. PO Box 80875. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. Just south of this outcrop. Rocky Trails. . and park at the end of the road. % 702-223-2176. Falcon Press Publishing. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. % 888-86ROCKY. 89137.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. Stay below the northern peaks. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. then go northwest to another plateau. go 6. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-254-5604. outlines the easiest route. climb a gully to reach a ridge.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2.2 miles. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. Suite 4. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. HCR 33. ascending northwest. Las Vegas. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. PO Box 371324. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. 89124. Bruce Grubbs. Las Vegas. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. Climb northward up the slope. % 702-596-2953. Sports & Adventure Tours. turn right. 89180. heading for the northernmost outcropping. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. % 702-434-3388.
2101 South Decatur Boulevard. 89132. can arrange a covered wagon trip. % 702-649-6819. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. At mile post 17. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. Hahn’s World of Surplus. % 702-2567433.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. 4065 East Patrick Lane. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-458-8870. % 702-383-0838. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. Silver State Old West Tours. Desert Rock Sports. 617 Hoover Avenue. % 702387-2457. however. Wagons West. Peak Sports. Armed . % 702362-7177. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. % 702-252-7114. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702-254-1143. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting.6 mile to a dirt road. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. Desert Outfitting. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . PO Box 19210. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. Cowboy Trail Rides. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. % 702-875-1978. % 702-798-6565. Las Vegas.
the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. scanning for a cairn on the left. flying downhill and then up to another road. Turn right. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. NV 89126. Go left here. Head downhill. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. zoom downhill to the fork. . Because the status of any trail can change at any time. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. make a quick right and head downhill. before heading out. A double track soon appears on the right. go to the next intersection. For a more challenging excursion. PO Box 26589. After beginning another climb. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. turn left to another intersection and turn right. Ride until you see a cairn on the left.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). a six-mile loop. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. turn right. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. heading uphill. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. and pump uphill. % 702-647-5000. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. At the road. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. Las Vegas. Turn right. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. For a tamer road trip. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. 4765 Vegas Drive. Take this until you reach a double track. contact the Bureau of Land Management.
the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Ski Chalet. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. Turn left to return to US 15. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-451-9586. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. % 702-876-8687. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. Escape the City Streets. Las Vegas Bikes USA. . 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. % 702-646-3401. 16 Cottonwood Drive. 7934 Cadenza Lane. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. % 702-596-2953. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. % 702-642-2453. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. At about the 10-mile mark. Downhill Bicycle Tours. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. R&R Cycling. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. % 702-8978287. the byway forks. % 702-252-8077.
The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. Rebel Adventure Tours. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. is on the premises. 4765 West Vegas Drive. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. % 702-454-5555. maps and more information on backcountry byways. Las Vegas. crystal-clear hotel pool. 8 AM to 11 AM. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. 89101. % 702-796-9355. . tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. % 702-380-6969. % 702-646-8800. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. For details. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. an avid angler for more than 50 years. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. 713 East Ogden Street. 3700 Flamingo Road. Old West Territory Tours. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. 2810 South Highland Drive. Suite B. It begins. of all places. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. % 888-REELRIO. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours.
Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power.500-acre ranch in Utah. Boulder Beach. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere.) Swimming. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. about three miles across at its widest point. water skiing. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. and two. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. powerboats and cruisers. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. The expert staff is available seven days a week. Forever Resorts. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. visit Divers’ Discount Supply.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. rents houseboats. under Boating Outfitters. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. instruction and gear. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. For details. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. meals and overnight lodging for $449. Thomas. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. (See below. largemouth bass and trout. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road).to three-days notice is required. flows into Lake Mead. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). Off Nevada 167. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. offering professional advice. % 800-34-SCUBA. . 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. % 800-2555561. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. jet skiing. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road).
% 702-252-7114. 89102. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. PO Box 61235. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. particularly near cliffs. PO Box 100. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. 89124. % 800-696-RAFT. Calville Bay Resort. % 702-293-6180. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. Near Laughlin. 322 Lake Shore Road. % 702-754-3245. Lake Mead Cruises. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. % 702-565-8958. PO Box 62465. . The cost is about $65 per person. is the local fishing and boating hub. offers trips from January through November. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Las Vegas. Return transportation is provided by bus. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. % 702-2931190. 89006. 89006. Las Vegas. Lake Mojave Farther south. HCR 30. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam.
Clearwater Flyfishing. . % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. Tom’s Water Skiing. % 702-459-2080. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. 4290 Boulder Highway. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. % 702-564-5660. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702565-0696. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. 1450 Newberry Drive. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. 89029. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. Overton. PO Box 29279. % 702-437-9283. Sunset Bait & Tackle. 89028. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. Fiesta Queen Cruises. AZ. Overton. PO Box 29279. % 702-452-8299. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. % 702297-1464. Bullhead City. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. 89040. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. % 702-5659111. Laughlin River Tours. Laughlin. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. % 702-3944000. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 89040. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. % 800-228-9825. % 702-388-1022. 520-758-6242. % 702-433-3263. Overton Beach Marina.
Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. % 702-451-4004. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. ext. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. 3800. Hackett Bungy.J. . however. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Karen Jones. Saturday until midnight. noon to 9 PM. Arizona and Zion. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. 1500 Palomino Drive. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. % 702-385-4321. HB Fishing Guide Service. % 702-5657583. % 702-564-1558. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. 68 Mallory Road. % 702-565-8396. % 702-871-1399. 810 Circus Circus Drive. 161 East Rancho Drive. complete with guided ground tours and meals. % 702-434-0848. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. Utah. citing growing noise problems. With commercial balloon tours. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. Jim Goff. The company claims more than 500. Henderson Bill Spellman. A jump is $59. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. Even more memorable.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service.
3275 Rosanna Street. 200 Convention Center Drive. % 800-216-8330.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. % 800-634-6377. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. Jean Airport.com. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. % 800-634-6851. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. % 800-359-8727. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Web site www. #115-200. Las Vegas. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. 241 East Reno Avenue. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . NV 89019. % 800-446-4584. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. D&R Balloons. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Las Vegas. % 702-385-2SKI. Skydive Las Vegas. % 702-221-9199. Scenic Airlines. Boulder City. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. 89005. Set at a base elevation of 8. Heli USA. Air Vegas Airlines. % 800-535-4448. 806 Buchanan Street. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. % 702-293-1860. Eagle Canyon Airlines. % 702-877-1010. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. % 702-736-0013. 2705 Airport Drive. 89109. NV 89117. Sundance Helicopters. PO Box 19629. % 800-255-7474.ultimateballoonadven. King Airelines. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. Jean. Las Vegas Airlines. 806 Buchanan Street.
Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. After all. 2395 North Rancho Road. even behemoths like the 5. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. $-$$. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. % 800-272-7426. are booked solid on weekends.000 techies to Sin City. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. % 702-385-1664. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. HO TE L Many hotels. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. luring 200. over 100. The place was once part-owned by in- . it seems. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. 600 East Fremont Street. % 702-646-0008. All they do is take up space. For more serious snow. % 702-385-5200. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. 18 East Fremont Street. if possible.000-room MGM Grand. $-$$$. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. But somehow. Above all. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past.000 visitors.
3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. The faux volcano. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. dominate the Strip.037 rooms. way out there. is a crowd-pleaser. % 702-385-4011. who built the first casino resort. The movie Rainman was shot here. $$$-$$$$. the young upstarts. New York. $$-$$$$. Down the street. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. New York is out there. has 1. % 702-791-7171. % 702-3821600. Monte Carlo. 128 East Fremont Street. the MGM Grand. $$-$$$$. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. % 702-894-7111. The Golden Nugget. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. and New York. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. South of here. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. New York. The Mirage. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. % 702-740-NYNY. however. Even by Vegas standards. 1 Main Street. 129 East Fremont Street. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. $$-$$$$. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. % 702-732-5111. 3000 Paradise Road. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. the Flamingo. Next door is the Island’s big sister. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. $$-$$$$. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. $$$$$. If staring at wealth is your thing. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-385-7111. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. $-$$. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. $$-$$$. Across the street is the green giant. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. $-$$. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. % 702-731-7110. Caesars Palace. The Four Queens. % 702-740-NYNY. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. % 702-386-2110. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. 202 East Fremont Street. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . across from the Fashion Show Mall.
has 2. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. which eliminates Reno. . offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park.000. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. while Bellagio will boast 3. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. too. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. At this book goes to press. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. $-$$. TIP Laughlin For the most part. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Charleston Hotel. Bonnie Springs Motel. $-$$$.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. On the outskirts of Vegas. % 800-634-3988. contrary to popular belief.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. $$-$$$$. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging.500 rooms. but don’t count on that for long.000 visitors a month and climbing. Charleston Resort. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. % 702-262-4555. set at 7. % 702-872-5500. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. three Motel 6s. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. In the Spring Mountains. % 702-872-5408. positively sedate with its 5.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. $$-$$$$. % 702-875-4400. the Mt.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. % 702-735-1616.
the Flamingo Hilton. An excellent buffet. % 702-385-5016. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-732-5111. $-$$$. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. % 702-298-2453. The Edgewater. contact the Chamber of Commerce. while the Colorado Belle. in the Las Vegas Hilton. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. however. Emeril’s. classy Hugo’s Cellar. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-891-7337. Off the main drags. Downtown at the Four Queens. both at the MGM Grand. Andre’s. % 702-385-4011. % 702-298-4600. 1650 Casino Drive. 3700 West Flamingo Road. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. 2900 South Casino Drive. 1350 East Flamingo Road. After a few meals at most of these troughs. The Ramada Express.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. Eurasian mélange.500 rooms. $-$$. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. Café Michelle. 2100 South Casino Drive. 2000 South Casino Drive. has 1. Hamada. % 702-733-3111. % 702-298-5111. $-$$. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. % 702-298-4000. and Harrah’s. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. % 702-3807711. opened in 1990. 202 Fremont Street. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. sports a railroad theme. offers 2. $-$$$. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. On the Strip. 2121 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-2535. $-$$. Andiamo. 401 South 6th Street. and Gatsby’s. At the Flamingo Hilton. serves upscale Italian fare. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. % 702-298-2214. Nearby. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices.000 rooms. % 702-298-7111. while the Golden Nugget. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. % 702-252-7777. 1900 South Casino Drive. and very expensive. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. 2300 South Casino Drive. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. % 702-298-4200. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. % 702735-8686. $-$$$. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. $$$$. % 702-891-7374. To really dine UPtown.
the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Fong’s. Charleston. For satisfying American favorites. 4455 Paradise Road. Phillip’s Supper House. 3900 Paradise Road. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. is the oldest restaurant in the city. which. The elevation here ranges between 7. so be prepared for extreme weather. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon.000 and 8. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. Kyle Canyon. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. in the shadow of Mt.400 feet. All five campgrounds have piped water. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. Suite Z. seven days a week. % 702733-8899. % 702-2984600. . Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. having opened in 1932. serves hip. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. For a Latin taste. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. Chicken is the house specialty. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. % 702-363-1921. % 702-298-2242. For information. The Green Shack. % 702-693-5000. serves fine steaks and seafood. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. 308 West Sahara Avenue. Chin’s. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. call % 702-873-8800. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. while moderately pricey. % 702-383-0007. % 702-384-4470. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. % 702-382-1644. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. Near the end of Nevada 157. is the most popular Chinese place in town. although the Lodge. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. 2504 East Fremont. % 702-873-5222. as the name implies. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-794-0700.
There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. % 702-397-2088. To the east of Vegas. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. there’s Boulder Beach. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. For information. call % 702-646-3401. Las Vegas Territory . In Valley of Fire State Park. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. For information on all five locations. Calville Bay has 80 sites.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. north of town on Lake Mojave. On the north shore. Moving north from Boulder City. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. % 520-7544606. % 520-754-3272. On the Virgin River to the north. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. Across the river from the Strip.
offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. Rose resorts. the largest alpine lake in North America. Heavenly and Mt. Of course. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. Reno. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country.000 feet. the city of Reno is the . While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. and for good reason. At the heart of this region. With a surface elevation of more than 7. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. just east of the California-Nevada border. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. Las Vegas. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. In the winter. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. The Truckee River. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state.
which meanders – sometimes wet. Just south of Carson City. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. on the shores of Washoe Lake. Farther south. meanwhile. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. Washoe Lake State Park. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. are walks back in time. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. Fort Churchill. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. . Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. 8. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. The place dates back to 1851. About 30 miles north of Reno. The Carson River. Pyramid Lake. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. Today this mirage-come-true. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. North of Pyramid Lake. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. where everyone expects Ben. an ancient. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. Farther east of Carson City.
In 1852. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . which hosts special events in warmer months. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. From here. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. No. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. and in 1859 C. there isn’t a glass pyramid. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. From Carson City. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park.H. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. North Virginia Street.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. H. In 1863. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe.W. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. From Reno. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. or at least slow. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. for a schedule. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. the city continues to grow rapidly. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. Like Vegas. % 800-FOR-RENO. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk.
the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. . but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. this is it. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. From a historical point of view.
% 702-688-1190. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. % 702-969-3111. April through October. The Nevada Historical Society. And the Keck Minerals Museum. % 702-334-2600. About 10 minutes north of the university. houses a theater and telescope. but call first for hours. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. To get there.) The Wilbur D. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. On the suburban south side of Reno. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. the campus of the University of Nevada. % 702784-4812. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-788-3773. On the north side of the city. is a well-known. has been at that location since 1946. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. May Museum and Arboretum. When arms get tired. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. Fleischmann Planetarium. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. % 702-333-9300. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. (See below under On Foot. boasts three treasures. houses one of the world’s best collections. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. is also located here. % 702-784-4528. 1502 North Washington Street. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. including black bears and kit foxes. Animal Ark Nature Center. 300 North Center Street. On the northern outskirts of the city. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. 1650 North Virginia Street. turn right. 1265 Deerlodge Road. % 702-7855961. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. The staff welcomes visitors daily. Great Basin Adventure. 10 South Lake Street. a nifty historical theme park. the National Automobile Museum. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right.
% 800-235-9292. % 800-218-8777. % 800-359-2472. % 800-736-6247. K-T Services. % 800-221-2000. Hertz. % 800-231-2222. TWA. Greyhound Lines. National. Lloyd’s International. % 800-426-7000. % 800-241-6522. % 800-331-1212. America West Airlines. % 800-325-8007. Reno Air. % 800-453-9417. United Airlines. % 800-221-1212. Delta Air Lines. Alaska Airlines. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. % 702-882-3375. % 702-328-6400. Enterprise. . If you don’t have a car. % 800-527-0700. % 800-CAR-RENT. Avis. % 800-654-3131. Airlines Air 21. % 800-800-4000. Southwest Airlines. % 800-435-9792. % 800-654-7037. TriStar Airlines. Thrifty. Delta Connection-Sky West. No Stress Express. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-367-2277. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-225-2525. Budget. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Northwest Airlines. Canadian Airlines. Dollar.
Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. a marvelous intermingling of water. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. Reno. is a study in contrast. in his journal Roughing It. 98 Colony Road. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. NV 89505. control erosion and acquire open land.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. % 702-686-3030. Fortunately.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. local. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. rock. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. Reno. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. In reality. respectively. 405 Marsh Avenue. All told. In 1861. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . year-round outdoor playgrounds. restore forest and watersheds. NV 89502. At press time. % 800-FOR-RENO. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. provides an interesting mix of adventures. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. 4590 South Virginia Street. trees and sky. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. % 702-329-2936. but the future of the Basin itself. the waters are now finding friends in high places.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. along the eastern shoreline. The park. % 702-831-0691. is well-known to snorkelers. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. open May through November. Admission is $8.) Up the twisting NV 431. is a welcome respite. The north end of the beach. under On Foot. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. % 702-849-2511. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. But in between them. stands out amid the pines.50 for kids. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. Reno-Tahoe Territory . offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. with its full slate of running water. $5. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. Viewed from the highway. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. The beaches are open daily. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. After the buzz of the ranch. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. (See below. % 702-831-0494. at 10. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself.776 feet. called Diver’s Cove. restrooms and picnic areas.50 for adults. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. Three miles south of Incline Village. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction.
NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. under Adventures and Accommodations. under On Snow. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. At Tahoe Village. also offers excursions. $6 per child. Stateline. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. 96151. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . CA. Every summer. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months.250 feet in five minutes. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. South Lake Tahoe. For information. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. PO Box 16299. condos. (See below. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. NV 89449. a nature trail circles the lake. canoeing. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings.50 per adult. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. % 702-588-4591. restaurants. This is the home port of the Dixie II. % 702588-3508. May through November. horseback riding. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. PO Box 7139. then into the broad Washoe Valley. Sailing. % 800-AT-TAHOE. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. The day-use fee is $5. Booming in the winter (see below. under On Snow). The price for such sloth is $10. % 702588-3000.) For the unmechanized. % 916-583-9048. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. offices and shops. (See below. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. and just beyond that is Cave Rock.
a hunt that lasted 20 years. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. boating. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find.000 acres. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. Bowers Mansion County Park. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. windsurfing. the mansion and all its furnishings. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. When the Comstock Lode. In November. The park’s centerpiece. the world’s largest silver strike. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. Washoe Lake covers about 3. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. (See below. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. off NV 429. Camping. pages 83. under Adventures. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. % 702-849-0201. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. camping and hiking (see below. About 15 miles south of Reno. site of Washoe Lake State Park. Washoe Lake. the boom rolled in at full throttle. 87 and 98). was hit a year later in Virginia City. The original owners. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. eventually lost their silver fortune. During the wet season. % 702-687-4319. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. and on weekends between May and October. one mile south of Washoe City. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. US 395 slides southwest. 1851. About 30 miles south of Reno. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. Bowers Mansion. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras.” On Halloween in 1864. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City.
the wagons make regular stops along the trail. yearround. Call for schedules and pick-up points. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. Just east of the Capitol. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. exhibits of native fauna. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. % 702-687-4810. It’s so open. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. the Nevada State Library & Archives. % 702687-5030.” In fact. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. 101 North Carson Street. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. % 702-884-3450. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. % 702-687-5160. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. 100 Stewart Street. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. 600 North Carson Street. Unlike most Western capitals. The Capitol Building & Museum. Located in the Carson City Mint building. Headquartered in nearby Minden. the Capitol is open daily. excepting state holidays. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. Admission is $3. Open Monday through Friday. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. which was opened in 1886. in fact. The library contains the original state constitution. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. .
% 702-883-1976. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. % 702-687-6953. % 702-882-1808. Samuel. On the suburban south side of Carson City. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. The building now houses a live theater. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. % 702-826-2766. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. 448 West King Street. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. 1536 South Carson Street. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. was named for its original occupant. books and permits for the surrounding area. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. Admission is $2. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). Bliss Mansion. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. The Orion Clemens House. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. The Stewart Indian Museum.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . The nearby Brewery Arts Center. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 813 North Carson Street. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. % 702-887-2174. Charles-Muller Hotel. 502 North Division Street. train rides are extra. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. 5366 Snyder Avenue. Admission is $4 for adults. The museum is filled with period furniture. and Bender House (1874). Roughing It. That classic journal. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862.50. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. % 702-884-2226. Two blocks north. The St. 2180 South Carson Street. 1207 North Carson Street. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. $2 for kids. The Roberts House Museum. Admission is $2. the Carson City Brewing Company. The staff can provide trail maps. 302 South Carson Street. The office is closed Sundays. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car.
NV 89701. Genoa Bar. the first permanent white settlement in the state.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. at the foot of the Carson Range. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. 3. As of presstime. May through October. now long gone. where he is buried. first opened to tourists in 1862. 2001 Foothill Road. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. 1900 South Carson Street. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. May through October. % 702-782-4325. lies Genoa. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. California. Guests can enjoy the water. % 702-782-8155. Before the school closed in 1980. Carson City. The museum is open daily. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. to Genoa. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. % 702-687-7410. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. The place saw Nevada’s first house.000 students had walked its halls. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. saunas. Daily admission is $12. Up the street. . Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. Walley’s. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. The roots go back to 1851. Across the street. weight room and tennis courts year-round. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. opened in 1863. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station.
their sweat. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. of all places. Their riches. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. In Gardnerville. Minden was founded in 1904. including Western art and portraiture. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. The otherwise barren hills. where it intersects with NV 341. a 1. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. which climbs up a narrow. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. % 702-782-2555. 1440 Highway 395. about eight miles south of Carson City. About three miles south of Gardnerville. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. Finally. % 702-782-3133. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. Virginia City.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. the highway hits Topaz Lake. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. resting precariously . 1477 Highway 395. boxing memorabilia. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. valleys. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. Housed in the 1915 high school building. % 702-266-3343. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. Gardnerville in 1879. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. Just down US 395. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. circus items. Leaving Carson City. Beyond NV 341. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. and their spirit built the Silver State. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture.200acre beauty set at 5.
and within four years. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. The building is open daily. underground mine tours. The Comstock Lode had been struck. May through October. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. At the south end of town. Today. % 702-847-0777. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. .000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. % 702-847-0757. Not recommended for claustrophobes. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. % 702847-0975. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46.000 a ton in silver. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. Here.000 lived in Virginia City. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. more than 15. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. The Marshall Mint Museum. Admission prices range from donations to $3. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. leave regularly. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. Up C Street. Admission is $3. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. is a looming. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. Another huge vein was hit in 1873.
including an old jukebox and player pianos. June through October. lives on in two buildings. % 702847-0275. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. The memory of Samuel Clemens. for a ride into yesterday. % 702-8470333. % 702-847-0766. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. The Way It Was Museum. Mark Twain’s Memories. % 702-847-0525. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Admission is $2. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. Finally. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. 3. Open daily. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. is definitely not for the puritan. Its extravagant interior. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small.50. has a more eclectic collection. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. Admission is $2. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. The Mark Twain Museum. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. complete with ornate chandeliers. % 702-847-0454. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. After she was murdered in 1867. The headstones and gravesites. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. % 702-8470830. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. a room in the basement of a saloon. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. is open daily. % 702-847-9394. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. windswept plateau. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street.
The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. % 702-847-0311. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. After about eight miles. or mustangs. % 702-577-2345. The Byway’s terminus. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. appears in Palomino Valley. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. There is also a developed campground. number about 30. After another 20 miles. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. including Odeon Hall. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. Today. % 702-673-1150. wild horses. The last true holdovers from the untamed West.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. little more than a few walls remain. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. then exit at NV 445. Past the intersection with NV 431. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway.
a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory .Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. % 702-547-0187. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation.000 BC. of course. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. according to artifacts found in local caves. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. this is the place to do it – unless. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. % 702-476-1156. Spreading north and east. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. Just north of the marina. or dry lake bed. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles.182 feet) to the west. thus christening the 27-mile-long. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. continues to surround the lake. From Nixon. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. Tribe members administer recreation activities. the world’s largest playa. site of the ranger station. Camping. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. nine-mile-wide watering hole. A reservation was formalized in 1874. the road passes Wino. boating and fishing are extra. They will provide directions and hours of operation. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. campground. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. Nearby. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. If losing yourself is your goal. boat ramp. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. store and museum. Fremont. Another 25 miles north via paved. Today. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. since at least 9. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach.
on 575. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. about one mile south of NV 140. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. Again.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. and carry enough water.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. caution and common sense are key to traveling. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. TAKE CARE In this region. songbirds. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. even with one. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. birds of prey. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. Help can be a long way away. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. A shovel. spare tire. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Besides antelope. . Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. preparedness is imperative. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. tow chain. % 503-947-3315. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter.
% 702-687-7410. In Gardnerville. heats up. % 800-FOR-RENO. % 702-882-1283. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. % 702-353-2291. % 702-882-1808. Reno also . In Virginia City. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. % 702-782-2211. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. % 702-847-7500. the Pony Express Re-Ride. water. In Reno. % 702-588-6211. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. bills itself as the “Wildest. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. % 702-883-1352. % 702-782-2444. The Way It Was Rodeo. % 702-329-7469. % 702-847-0311. % 702-265-5281.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. In Carson City. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. with food. Carson Valley Days. % 702-329-3877. % 702-829-1955. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. is held in Sparks.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. % 702-882-1802. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. is a rip-snortin’ affair. a rolling custom car show. Richest Rodeo in the West. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. Night Curves. % 702-588-9658. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles.
the notorious Burning Man Festival. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. In Incline Village. the Nevada State Fair. % 702-782-9711. % 702-329-1476. In the skies. % 702-826-1181. come to Virginia City along with a parade. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. The Great Italian Festival. % 702-786-5700. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. takes place in Carson City. % 702-827-7603. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. % 702-972-6663. On the Black Rock Desert. % 702-688-5767. deconstructionist Woodstock. % 702-329-7469. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. gather in Minden. % 800-535-3045. a sort of post-modern. attracts American Indians from many Western states. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. % 702-847-0311. . November The Celtic New Year Celebration. and the Nevada Day Parade. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-882-1565. % 702-832-1606. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. and the National Championship Air Races. is held in Reno. % 702-885-6939. the Native American Snow Dance. Street Vibrations.
including Asylum (5. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. then climbs to a saddle. so dress appropriately. with parking on the left just south of the vista point.14a). are more chilling than the mountain air.11c and heavier. including Jello Wars (5.11a and 5. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. whips around a peak. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. At the five-mile mark. Falcon Press Publishing. all 5. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage.12a opportunities. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. There are 10 routes.11d) and Slayer (5. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. There are more than 20 routes. Overhangs present experts with 5.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. Farther south. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive.000 feet. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. After crossing Galena Creek. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. 1994. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. .11a). however.
as are group tours. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. % 702-847-WALK. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. climbing 3. The charge for adults is $12. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. The trail ends at a highway. for children $5. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. NV 431. so call first. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. % 702-6881893. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range.300 feet in just six miles. This hike is certainly strenuous. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. elevation 8. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. . but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. After another mile. offers a beautiful willow. Hours are seasonal. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead.260 feet. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. including great blue herons and birds of prey. Since the slide. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road.
contact the BLM. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. As this is being written. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. For more information. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. From here. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. OR 97441. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. For more information. . Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. To reach the trailhead. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. % 916-279-6101. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. great horned owls and other birds of prey. Yellow Hills East. is a good overnight point. as are 7. Oakland. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. write them at PO Box 20991. CA 94620. The trail. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. For road conditions and closures. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. Mahogany Mountain. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. Stevens Camp. For travel information.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. Madras.
beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. #111. NV 89502. Nevada Guide Service. 1135 Terminal Way. Reno. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. NV 89511. Outdoor Adventures. to the soaring summit at 9. 20 Daylily Court. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. % 702-322-9559. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. NV 89436. Reno. Incline Village. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. NV 89450. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. % 702-333-6795. PO Box 6145. Look for the Knott Creek sign. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. jogs through alpine meadows. The lakes. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. Patagonia Outlet. % 702-626-6916. backpackers and photographers. % 702-851-1924.200 lung-burning feet. Denio Junction. A steep. gaining 2. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. Bighorn Outfitting.397 feet. . 8550 White Fir Street. % 702-623-1500. terminus of the fairly flat. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. 490 Kietzke Lane.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. % 702-832-5231. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. but they might also offer their services to hikers. Sparks. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. Silver State Outfitters. 3335 Vista Boulevard. On the east side of the reservoir. % 702-746-6878. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods.
Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. Zephyr Cove Stables. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. In the highlands near Mount Rose. % 702782-7011. % 702-849-0570. 1201 Highway 395. offers ranch day trips. the trail makes a high-altitude. 1941 North Carson Street. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. % 702-3584824. also rents horses. call first for availability and directions. and offers picnic rides. % 702-8252855. Strictly Scuba & More. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. % 702-885-7773. Near Washoe Lake State Park. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . % 702-323-5630. After about three miles. 4375 South Carson Street. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. Sierra Mountaineer. Twin City Surplus. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. Sporting Rage. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. % 702-849-1020. Sierra Spirit Ranch. % 702-8827779. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. Vogl Trek USA. 4339 South Carson Street. % 702-849-9651. % 702884-3453. In all four cases. 1675 East 4th Street. contact Tin Cup Adventures. 155 East Moana Lane. % 702588-5664. % 702-831-5465.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. which parallels North Canyon Creek. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains.
and they must yield the right-of-way to both. depending on point of view. % 916-279-6101. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. For detailed maps. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. To complete the loop. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. to Vya. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. north of Pyramid Lake. 84 miles back to Gerlach. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. don’t screw it up. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. Put simply. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. % 702-831-0494. The half-paved. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. Continuing northwest on NV 447. From here. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. or ends. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. .
4135 South Virginia Street. % 702-8871333. 89701. % 702-3226001. also known as NV 206. Falcon Press Publishing. 89701. 89502. & According to Jeanne L. south of Carson City. 89509. 235 East Plumb Lane. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. % 702-825-8258. 1200 South Wells Avenue. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. % 702786-5111. 89532. 1993. 89502. winter and spring. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. 500 North Carson Street. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. % 702883-3210. Bicycle Warehouse. Bike Brothers. 1987 North Carson Street. Great Basin Bicycles. along with Canada geese in fall. 3450 Lakeside Drive. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. % 702826-0800. 89502. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. Bobo’s Ski Shop. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. For more information. call % 702-688-1500. Excell Skates. Reno Schwinn. 89502. .Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. % 702827-3277. 1999 South Virginia Street. % 702-747-1413.
PO Box 3007. offers 1. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. canoes. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. which can take up to seven hours. 89423. turkey vultures.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. six miles south of Gardnerville. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. via NV 88 and CA 89. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. 89701. Contact the US Forest Service. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. 625 Fairview Drive. % 702782-0867. Nevada. personal water craft and kayaks. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. 89450. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. California. rents powerboats. 1685 Highway 395 South. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. On the Nevada side. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. cutthroat and rainbows. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 702-588-3369. . red-tailed hawks. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. Spooner Lake.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. The trip. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. % 702-8825007. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. Entrance fee is $3 per car. kingfishers. During spring and early summer. coyotes. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L.
Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. water levels. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. but in wet years. For more adventurous angling. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. A better option might be Ophir Creek. are regularly stocked with rainbows. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. However. For the stalwart anglers. Washoe Lake State Park. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. with campground and restrooms. and charges a launching fee. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. although . Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. catfish and trout. For moving-water anglers. For directions. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. % 702-6874319. Idlewilde Park. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. There are two boat ramps. only a mile west of downtown. % 702-688-1500. thanks to Sierra runoff. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. planting and licensing information. two to three miles up a steep trail. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. The smaller. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. both on the eastern shore. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres.
More than 100 years later. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. Boats with outboards are permitted. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. see below. a health advisory is still in effect. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. boasts a handful of isolated spots. the setting here is primative. For more information. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. while rainbow. Camping is primitive. Rainbow. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. There are two boat ramps on the lake.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. The reservoir is located on private land. used to separate gold and silver from ore. % 702-688-1500. crappie and perch. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. under Outfitters. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. Nevada Angler’s Guide. . a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. Come prepared. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. In his book. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. however. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury.
Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 294 East Moana Lane. CA. PO Box 6506. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. 490 Kietzke Lane. % 702-827-0600. With a base elevation of 8.260 feet. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West.. 89502. Reno. NV 89448. % 916-541-5448. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. Reno. NV 89448. NV 89502. PO Box 10225. Tahoe City. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. 96145. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. % 702-358-6113. intermediate and advanced. % 916573-0753. % 702-322-9559. Tahoe Topliners. . 1111 North Rock Boulevard. % 702-825-2855. Reno Fly Shop. equally divided among novice. % 916-546-4444. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. Zephyr Cove.440 vertical feet of runs. % 702-588-4916. Don’s Fishing Charters. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. rentals and a shuttle bus. PO Box 1909. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. Snowboarders are welcome. Sparks. NV 89502. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. Mount Rose also offers lessons. The Gilly. Stateline. 155 East Moana Lane. Zephyr Cove. NV 89431. NV 89449.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. PO Box 815.
Lessons. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. For cross-country fans.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. with the longest vertical drop (3. $8 after 3 PM). skate skis.500 feet). who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. and/or snowshoes. six surface lifts. Diamond Peak. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. lessons. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. Incline Village. This is a monster of a mountain. 1210 Ski Way. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. the greatest acreage (4.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. % 702-831-8361. not to mention great views of the lake. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs.840 feet. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. NV. which include a pass. Heavenly. lesson. rentals.000 feet above sea level. % 702-7823047. and rental.800) and the highest top elevation (10. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. . For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes).000 to 9. trail pass) is $34. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. Heavenly has 18 chairs. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. Snowboarders are welcome. day tours and amateur races. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. rentals. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. a new gondola and the famous tram. % 702-749-5349. lesson. all-terrain skis. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. Lessons. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. 89451.
% 702786-5111. of- . Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89451. % 702-786-2020. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. % 702-588-5935. % 702782-0867. % 702831-3500. In Reno. Stateline House of Ski. 2615 Mill Street. % 702-358-4824. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. Galena Ski Rentals. % 702-831-2922. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 89502. 235 East Plumb Lane. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. Sundance Ski Company. % 702-3226001. % 702-786-7071. 89451. 2500 East 2nd Street. 89502. 89502. 89502. Sierra Mountaineer. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 89502. % 916-544-1221. PO Box 19215. 89423. 515 East Moana Lane. % 702-329-5358. 89502. % 702-8269096. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. 89502. Serva Ski. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 89451. 209 Kingsbury.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. 321 Sky Way. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. CA 96151. C&J Flight Aviation. % 702-3239463. % 702-831-3537.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. South Lake Tahoe. Excell Skates. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. 89502. 1685 Highway 395 South. 140 Vesta Street. Mogul Mouse. Snowind Sports. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. % 702-849-0111.
the Sierras and. High Country Soaring. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. % 800-99-RIDGE. Lake Tahoe. eight restaurants. $$$-$$$$. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. offers 534 rooms. % 702-784-4944. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. of course. 398 US 50. poolside service. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. a dance club.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. $$$-$$$$. % 800-6483773. $$$-$$$$. Tahoe Summit Village. has 740 rooms. Lake Village Vacations. The Douglas County Airport. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge.. Harrah’s. % 702-588-8571. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. also features condo accommodations. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. $$$$. . $$$-$$$$. % 800-427-8397. Harvey’s Resort. $$$$$$$. % 800-635-0066. has two. three. on this site since 1944. % 800-648-3353. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos.
$$-$$$. $$. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. The Haus Bavaria B&B. with more than 1. $$-$$$$. 210 North Center Street. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. As in Las Vegas. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. has 33 rooms. % 800-687-8733. Among the downtown locations. % 702-588-6644. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. $-$$. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. which serves free continental breakfast. 2 Stateline Road. % 800- . 593 North Dyer Circle. 111 Country Club Drive. the Cal-Neva Resort. % 800-225-6382. % 800-624-7980. % 702-8321234. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. lawn games. % 800-322-7723. Harrah’s. The Zephyr Cove Resort. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. $$. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. 24 Highway 28. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. $$$.$$-$$$$. % 702-831-0287. % 800-731-6222. combines great views. % 800-824-6391. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. 407 North Virginia Street. first-class. $$-$$$. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits.700 rooms on 38 floors. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. A perennial four-star winner. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. a rustic feel. Today. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. $$$-$$$$. as well as a gym with instructor on site.
$$. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. 1901 South Virginia. 310 South Carson Street. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. 345 North Virginia Street. an owner-built. 1100 Nugget Avenue. has a heated pool. including a barber shop.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. 500 North Sierra Street. $. and Vagabond Inn. Circus Circus. The St.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. a heated pool and other amenities. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. 701 East 7th Street. $$$$. It has more than 1. % 800-723-6500. % 800-723-6500. $$-$$$. most notably the Days Inn. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. % 702-786-4070. Nearby. % 702-882-3643. $$$. $$. has more than 1. The Atlantis. convention facilities and some impressive suites. Away from downtown. . % 702-8821887. Charles Hotel. 3131 South Virginia Street. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. $$. 3575 South Virginia Street. $$$. % 800-648-1177. is a three-story. % 800-648-5966. $$. $$. which overlooks the state government center. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. boasts nearly 600 rooms. Freeway convenient. 600 South Carson Street. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. % 800-937-1436. two heated pools and a hair salon. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. Motel 6. % 702-825-7134. the new Peppermill. $$-$$$. the Eldorado.000 rooms. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. % 800-282-2444. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. Rates start at $195 per night. $$. % 800-622-1890. 2707 South Virginia Street. welcomes bargain hunters. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. $$. 710 West Robinson Street. $. free airport shuttle and skier rates. % 800-320-0627. which features theme rooms. % 702-827-0255. $$. % 702-358-1080. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. the Motel 6.
1431 Ezell Street. $. There are 13 rooms. % 800-962-0732. 1435 US 395. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. including the small Genoa House Inn. % 702-782-8720. $$. 800 North Carson. 1643 US 395. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. 300 Main Street. % 702-882-3046. $-$$. % 702-847-9777. $-$$. % 702-847-0521. #800-628-7831. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. $$$. % 702-557-2220. 565 South D Street. The Crooked House. It has four rooms. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. generic motels abound in Carson City. 907 South Carson. and a casino. . The Topaz Lodge & Casino. It has four rooms. 1540 Main Street. % 702-782-5697. % 702-782-9711. Pratt.C. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. two with private baths.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. 1979 US 395. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. for weary wanderers. $$. is the center of the action. % 702-8825535. some with kitchenettes. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. $-$$. 2332 Main Street. % 800-321-6983. and Pioneer. $-$$. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. 8 South F Street. $$-$$$. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. was built in the late 1800s. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. The Chollar Mansion. % 702-782-7075. 1627 US 395. % 702-782-7644. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. % 702-847-0111. 180 Nixon Street. 2001 Foothill Road. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. $$$. 11 with private baths. $$. $$$. $$. has five rooms. the inn was built in 1872 by A. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. $$-$$$. The motel has 40 rooms.
96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. seasonal ingredients. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. coffee shops. The hotels. no TVs and. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. serves fresh Japanese steak. the lake’s first casino. % 702-825-1250. including a seafood and oyster bar. % 702-588-6611. Open for dinner only. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. Reservations are recommended. % 702-786-1323. . % 702-588-6276. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. % 702-323-3200. The Chart House. 210 North Sierra Street. The restaurant also does its own baking. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. Steak. a casino. 4201 West 4th Street. along with Caesars Tahoe. 3127 South Virginia Street. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. % 702-323-5550. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. the menu changes every two months. 328 Kingsbury Grade. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. % 702-588-2411. of course. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. $. try the Glory Hole. is a rousing pub with good food. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. The French cuisine is made with fresh. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. The place has 14 rooms. 1200 Razorback Road. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. Open for dinner only. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. % 702-827-4111. Ichiban. also run the gamut with delis. % 702-941-0371. ethnic food and full buffets. Famous Murphys. 3065 West 4th Street.
Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. the Eldorado. this is the place. % 702-847-0111. % 702-8262121. The Carson Nugget Steak House. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. 234 North Virginia. % 702-348-9297. El Charro Avitia. dinner only on weekends. % 702-882-0486. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. Adele’s. % 702882-1626. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. % 702-785-7000. Boasting a large Italian menu. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. 4389 South Carson Street. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. % 702-8835100. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. 507 North Carson Street. 1540 Main Street. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. % 702-356-3300. South of the city center and south of the border. Two blocks away. 1020 North Carson Street. % 702-882-3353. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. serves fine French cuisine. . The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. 1301 North Carson Street. % 702-883-6261. 402 East William Street. 255 North Sierra Street. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. and Peppermill. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. seafood and steak. one of the top Italian eateries in country. % 702786-5700. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. There is also an extensive wine list. 1112 North Carson Street. % 702-882-4556. % 702-689-7226. Heidi’s. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. 2707 South Virginia Street. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. Silvana’s.
Open May through October. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. call % 702266-3343. which straddles the Nevada-California border. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. . % 916-279-6101. The nightly fee is $5. Nightly fees are $6. % 916-573-2600. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. % 702-789-2000. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. Call the Cedarville. the campground has 54 sites and running water. Simply wonderful. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. Rates run about $18 per night. lies south of the river. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. % 702-687-4319. nine for RVs. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. On the Nevada side. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. some for RVs and some for tents. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. Big Spring Reservoir. The overnight rate is $12. Open June through September. 735 Mill Street. Mount Rose has running water. for more information. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. including Virgin Valley.900 feet. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. % 702-323-3381. California. Set at 8. There are 44 campsites here. the campground has 24 sites. % 702-8822766. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. Showers are available. office of the BLM. % 702-322-2281. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. 2500 East 2nd Street. Reno RV Park. For information and fees. The overnight fee is $7. 1300 West 2nd Street.
but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. carrying only a pistol. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. California. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory .. willing to risk death daily. Beginning in April 1860. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. skinny. Joseph. Want ads called for “Young. wiry fellows not over eighteen. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west.. On October 24. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Bible and mail pouch.Pony Express Territory vada. pausing only long enough to change mounts. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. tore between stations. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. Missouri. Orphans preferred.” Riders. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. Incredibly. 1861. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. and Sacramento. the gutsy riders.
there is excellent skiing. .100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. spans some of the most beautiful. glacier-carved peaks. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. But if you consider solitude. so be prepared for anything. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. hiking and wildlife viewing. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. In the higher mountains. Just a few hours from Ely.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. Near the town of Ely. ridges and valleys in the country. Great Basin. Ranging in elevation from 3.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. this area has plenty to offer. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. As might be expected. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
January through March. Sunday. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. green-winged teals. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. . April through December. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. % 702-423-5128. % 702-423-3677. % 702-867-3500. (See On Water. With 10.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. Over 14. In recent years.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. covers 77.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages.000 people. below. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail.000 photographic images. In peak years. White-faced ibis. peregrine falcons. 1000 Auction Road. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. canvasbacks.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. Admission is free. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. pelicans. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. snowy plovers. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. 1050 South Maine Street.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry.000 years.
on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. and “management” means hunting. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. Just off the highway are two short trails. Pony Express Territory . More than 21. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. The hunting season usually opens in October. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. which features the famous Blue Angels. Every spring.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. is the artist in residence here. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. Adam Fortunate Eagle. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. At press time. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. Just east of town. On the south end of town.000 years ago. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. Over 8. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans.
NV 89406. . roars and moans. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. geology and history of the region. dark. % 702-423-4556. Fallon. If the roar of engines ever dies down. regularly emanate from the dune. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. wild West. Fallon. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. listen for the mountain’s “singing. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. about three miles past West Gate. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. % 702-423-2544. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. A hike to the precipice is a safe. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. NV 89406. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. volcanic cliffs around it. fauna. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together.” Booms. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. but strenuous. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. Near the station.” meaning sword. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. 379 West William Avenue. 100 Campus Way. the low. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes.
The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). % 702-964-2200. then climbs again to Austin. NV 89310. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. NV 89045. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. Spencer’s Hot Springs. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. PO Box 1149. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. Round Mountain. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory .577 feet. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. However the rush began. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. Three miles later. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. PO Box 212. population about 300. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). Six miles later. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. Austin is a quiet. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. past Bob Scott campground. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. then to paved NV 376.350 feet. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. As always. 13 miles east of Austin.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. Austin. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. % 702-964-2145. the boom was followed by the bust. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce.
travertine hill that is visible for miles around. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. Battle Mountain. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. near Pete’s Summit. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. The limestone cavern. are open to visitors just off the road. There is also a free campground here.500 years ago. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water.000 years ago. % 702-964-2200. PO Box 1420. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. A long. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. A series of safe. NV 89820. After merging with Lower Mine Road. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. is recommended for serious. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. . There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. experienced cavers only. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. The hill is located on private land. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. NV 89310. PO Box 212. % 702635-4000. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. At mile 55. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. At mile 30. Austin. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip.106 n Pony Express Territory sort.
where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. completed in 1880 and still in use today. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. By 1878. % 702-237-5484. Gold mines. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. Eureka. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. Not until five years later. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. Eureka. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. NV 89316.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. some a little less gloriously than others. The shell of the building. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. The state’s No. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. and the Jackson House Hotel. PO Box 14. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. dates from 1877. found in the valleys around Eurkea. The building. however. but most definitely worth a gander. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. Still. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). But by 1890 the rush was over. are still a major facet of the local economy.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. Eureka’s population of 9.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals.
About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. Entering town at night . The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. US 50 rolls across basin and range. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. PO Box 14. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. A few miles farther south. Situated at 9. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. this mini-city (population about 5. Monday through Friday and by appointment. Pronounced EE-lee. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. n Ely Back on US 50.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike.500 residents.000 feet. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. NV 89316. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. % 702-237-5484. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Eureka. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers.
US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. Prices start at $10 per person. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2.50 per person. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. accessories. located on East 11th Street. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. engine house. % 702-728-4467. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. a bicycle. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. furniture. Since they went cold in the 1880s. Admission is free.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. The museum. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. NV 89301. clothing. Pony Express Territory . One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. % 702-2894710. East Ely. like many museums in this territory. The White Pine Public Museum. showers and hiking trails. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. There is primitive camping here. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. % 702-289-2085. On the other side of town. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. Call for exact dates and times. PO Box 150040. running water. Return to US 50. depot. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin.300 feet. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. depart on selected dates from May through September. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. Tours of the railroad yard. 2000 Aultman Street. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. former First Lady Pat Nixon. as well as an original.
From Baker. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. While hikers are welcome. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. contact the Ely office of the BLM. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area.000 people a year visit the park. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. That leads quickly to Baker. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. For more information. % 800496-9350. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. 636 Aultman Street. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. Most of the 77. In 1922. 1986. a proposal to create a 6. 150 6th Street. Only about 70. In the 1950s a . It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. Bristlecone Convention Center.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. untamed backcountry. % 702-289-4865. % 702-289-8877. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. Designated a national park in October. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. % 702-234-7331. sometimes by the hundreds.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center.
$3 for juniors. are held every day except Thanksgiving.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. limited to 30 people at a time. ski resorts and tramways. . draperies. (See On Foot and Camping. below. Christmas and New Year’s Day. stalagmites. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. too. Prices are $4 for adults. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations.000. The high-altitude campgrounds. among others. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. then head straight out of the park. % 702-234-7331. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. And even if the invasive livestock were banned.086-acre Great Basin National Park. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. which is actually one huge cavern. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. While celebrating a victory. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves.Touring n 111 plan for a 150.067-foot Wheeler Peak. Tours of the cavern. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. are hard to beat. flowstone and soda straws. the park’s crown jewel. columns.000 to 44. Finally. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. or speleotherms: stalactites. Call ahead for conditions. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. NV 89311-9702. Congress settled on 77. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. in 1986. Baker.
which can take a few days to get acclimated to.600 feet. . Millet Ranch. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. Bakeoven Creek. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. Drive three miles to the recreation area. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. Carvers NW. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. are spessartite. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. which has picnic tables and shade trees. a few of which are even of gem quality. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. % 702-9642671. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. The garnets found here. To reach Garnet Hill.000 feet. or use paved NV 376. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. Set at 7. South Toiyabe Peak. Tierney Creek. Arc Dome. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. to reach the village of Kingston.
Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. as well as all the water you will need. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. % 702-289-3031 for more information. Pony Express Territory . Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. windswept paths. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. nausea.000 feet along rocky. 1. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. If threatening clouds approach. a unique. The wilderness.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. which at 12. From the trailhead/parking area. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. Baker. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. is marked with trailhead signs. headache.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. which may be impassable when wet. leave the high country immediately. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. The trail ends just before the summit. This is some serious highcountry hiking. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. and Mount Moriah. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. with many trails climbing above 10. set aside in 1989. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. which heads west toward the peak. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. After about 10 miles of hiking.000-acre. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek.
Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. Continue straight. At 13. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. If it is safe to venture to the peak. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. In 1878. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. the views of the 8. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Use extreme caution here.063 feet. To reach the summit. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. the last 1. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. then turn left again. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. the six-mile .114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. The bowl.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. This is another depression etched by a glacier.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. or cirque. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. then descends to Teresa Lake. Finally.
TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection.700 feet in the first seven miles. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move.950 years. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. Return the way you came. this is a nice overnight stop. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. once the site of some mining activity. Lehman Caves. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. subalpine conditions. . Turn left. To continue the loop hike. Around mile six. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. In good weather. Wheeler Peak. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. Kious Spring. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. To return to the trailhead. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4.926-foot Pyramid Peak. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. just off to the east. After about three miles. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail.
% 702-238-5232. 89301. 3125 Stark Lane. % 702-867-3388. White River Guide Service. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. % 702-289-4208. % 702-2893063. % 702423-9215. 1050 Aultman Street. is worth a gander. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. % 702-423-6171. HCR 33.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. . 2005 Harrigan Road. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. 89301. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. % 702-4239215. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. 89883. sells camping and outdoor equipment. 189 Aultman Street. 89406. 89301. Wendover George A. J & P Auto Parts. Burdick Guide Service. 89406. 89301. 89301. 203 Heritage Drive. Daum. a quartermile. PO Box 2560. 5030 Reno Highway. Sportsworld. % 702-423-5185. Flying M Stables. % 800-874-0903. 89406. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 89301. Great Basin Inn. % 702235-7439. % 702-289-8886. As of presstime. PO Box 34005. % 702-664-2977. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. 89406. 701 Avenue F. % 702-289-4468. 1707 Rice Road. Wildlife West Guide Service. Box 33570. 89406. Silver State Stables. HC 34.
off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. Austin. NV 89310. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. the sixstory. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. PO Box 130. one would think tiny Austin. % 702-885-6000. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. The route runs north out of the canyon. NV 89310. A 10-mile loop with a 1. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. Austin. For more information. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. For more information. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. contact the BLM. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. % 702-964-2671. Dune-buggy. brochures and campgrounds. population 300.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State.000 per year. PO Box 504.
% 702-289-8886. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. 1500 Aultman Street. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. when the weather is dry. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. past the US Forest Service station. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. and bring plenty of water. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. directions and road conditions. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. for maps. % 702-234-7331. . The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. From the pavement. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. sells and services bicycles.
Boat ramps are located in two spots. Pony Express Territory . along with sportfishing. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. surrounds a 10. where worms and corn are said to work best. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. Children under 12 as well as nursing women.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. Lahontan State Recreation Area. White crappie can be hooked March through May. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. In 1997. The trout limit is 10. % 702-688-1500. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer.
which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. A few chain HO TE L . The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. 855 West Williams Avenue. % 702-423-6031. 1500 Aultman Street. % 702-289-4468. and one of the best bargains. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. 1050 Aultman Street. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. Great Basin Inn. via paved NV 376 and a three. is one of the biggest places in town. % 702-289-8886. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. $-$$. J & P Auto Parts. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. The Upper Reese River. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. % 702-289-3063. % 702-289-4865. 701 Avenue F.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. which feeds the lake. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns.
$$. % 702-423-5151. % 702-237-5577.800 acres. $. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. is a modern. % 702-964-2698. which is north-south running US 95. $-$$. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. $-$$. 115 Northwest Main Street. but after a long day on the road. % 702-423-4648. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. and. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. The ranch. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. On the east end of town.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. the Lincoln Motel. % 702-423-5554. a heated pool and a small casino. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. with 10 rooms. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. % 702-964-2306. rates and directions. try Jackson House B&B. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . $-$$. % 702-423-2194. the Pony Express House. $$. $$$. 70 East Williams Avenue. For a real blast from the past. called Main Street as it runs through town. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. % 702-9642605. $-$$. The Sundown Lodge. a heated pool and interior corridors. $-$$. has 21 rooms. $. $$$. Call for information. has 27 rooms. the Budget Inn. % 702-237-5334. including the Comfort Inn. $. also called Main Street here. instruction. most of which are on US 50. 25 North Taylor Street. 1830 West Williams Avenue. % 702-964-2471. The red brick structure was built in 1877. meals and overnight accommodations. while on the southern edge of town. $-$$. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. which has 17 rooms. As you drive in from the west. Smith Creek Ranch. which has 30 rooms. 1705 South Taylor Street. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. The Eureka Motel. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. The Nevada Belle Motel. has 17 rooms. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. basic equipment. combines a B&B with a private. % 702-237-5247. the 22-room Value Inn. 180 West Williams Avenue. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. who really cares. % 702-423-2277. % 702-423-4254. It is open seasonally. which has 49 rooms. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours.
$-$$. which has 61 rooms. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. 770 Avenue O. % 702-2891234. $$. $-$$$. located on the south side of town off US 93. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. % 702-289-6665. 1101 Aultman Street. 1501 Avenue F. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. which has 19 rooms. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. the building was vacant 10 years later. % 702-237-9988. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. Ely With a population of more than 5. For a more genteel stay. 5th . % 702-289-8687.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. % 702-289-4747. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. % 702289-6671. has 21 rooms. is another living antique. 701 Avenue I. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). $. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. % 702-289-4497. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. % 702-289-4884. For a more modern taste. and its twin. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. % 702-289-8900. $-$$. two-story hotel.300. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. The inn is open June through September. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. There are also private balconies. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. 500 High Street. 930 Aultman Street. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. $-$$. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. the inn has five rooms with private baths. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. 220 East 11th Street. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. % 702-289-8838. $-$$. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. The Bristlecone Motel. 700 Avenue I. $$-$$$. $. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. After years of dormancy. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. 501 Aultman Street. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. $-$$. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts.
even fast food joints are nonexistent. % 702-289-3800. offers tipis and a campground. % 702-234-7272. $-$$. and two others outside of Baker. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. South of Baker at the national park boundary. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. the Border Inn. Utah. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel.. Baker. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. The Silverjack Motel. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. At presstime there were two places to stay in town.er. % 702-237-7302.. PO Box 90. % 702-289-4411. what with its 29 rooms. $. $. $. % 702-234-7267. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. Behind the Silverjack. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. and the White Pine Motel. % 702234-7323. guided tours and off-road adventures. NV 89311. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. 1301 Aultman Street. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. It is open June through August. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. 150 4th Street. % 702-289-3033. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. % 702-234-7343. 24hour laundromat and showers. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. so call ahead for operating hours. which has a laundromat and showers. $. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. % 702-234-7323. . $-$$. % 702234-7300. and Whispering Elms RV Park. is a favorite spot for travelers. along with horseback riding. with its seven rooms. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park.
seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. % 702-867-2769. 1350 West Williams Avenue. The Fallon Nugget Casino. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. Toiyabe Café. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. % 702-423-3111. however. 4150 Reno Highway. % 702-964-2493. Carol’s Country Kitchen. 1560 West Williams Avenue. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. is home to The Diner. Tony’s. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. including the few eateries. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. Open for breakfast. % 702-423-6166. % 702-867-3750. Stockman’s Casino. The International Café and Bar. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. lunch and dinner. try Mary’s Owl . 1955 McClean Road. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. Denny’s. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. including McDonald’s. % 702-423-2117. Smack in the center of town. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). % 702-964-2220. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. The Mexican food at La Cocina.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. % 702423-6828. 70 South Maine Street. Kentucky Fried Chicken. have been serving great burgers. specializing in omelets and steaks. In 1929 and ’30. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. % 702-964-9905. 960 Auction Road. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. In the 1920s and ‘30s. 875 West Williams Avenue. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. 125 South Maine Street. is also open for three squares a day. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. is known throughout Fallon. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. serves up steaks. % 702-423-3233. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. % 702-423-5588. is Fallon’s only coffee house. If your mind is on pizza. The Depot Casino. Café Nations.
and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. however. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. The Busy Bee Drive-In. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. 562 Aultman Street. % 702-237-5356. % 702-964-2412. % 702-289-4884. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. % 702-867-2332. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . Fallon RV Park. and Hubtotel RV Park. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. % 702-964-2627. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. % 702-289-6665. % 702-2289-3765. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. The Owl Club. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. offers 45 sites. 5787 Reno Highway. serving diner-style grub. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. % 702-289-4888. and is attached to a bar. Jerry Restaurant No. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. % 702-289-3033. West of Fallon. % 702-867-3636. 2160 Aultman Street. 701 Avenue I. 501 Aultman Street. % 702-289-3905. is also open 24 hours a day. % 702-688-1500. and Orient Express. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. top sirloin steak and eggs. which features prime rib. Believe it or not. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. 4800 Reno Highway. The Fireside Inn. 211 5th Street. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. 21. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. % 702-289-3313. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. % 702-237-5477. where the restaurants are also along US 50. might as well top it off in Eureka. Lahontan State Recreation Area. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. located three miles north of town on US 93. serves a fine steak sandwich. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. 1455 Aultman Street. % 702-237-5280. has 64 sites.
so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. For more information and road conditions. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. To reach Bird Creek campground. which are open June through September with running water. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. Only six miles southwest of Ely. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). For information.500 feet. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. then go a mile to County Road 1059. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. Bob Scott Campground. Just east of town. After a few miles. grills. There is drinking water here. Austin RV Park. There are 10 sites here . has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. % 702-964-2671. set at 7. No running water or firewood. Just east of the Eureka town limits. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. Open April to October. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. None have running water. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest.800 feet. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District.300 feet. NV 89310. picnic tables and vault toilets. There are 15 sites. Finally. along with campfire rings. PO Box 1420. as there are no services near the water. PO Box 130. where there are eight campsites set at 7. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. NV 89820. About nine miles south of Big Creek. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. Austin. 24 miles east of Austin. % 702-964-1011. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. % 702-635-4000. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. both off of US 50. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. Battle Mountain.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. North of Ely.
In Great Basin National Park.886 feet. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. depending on weather conditions. % 702-234-7331. this is the only park campground open all year. In the center of the park. and there are no showers. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. Set at 7. % 702-2893413. Contact the visitors center. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. and Valley View RV Park. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. on US 93. % 702-289-4865. On the northern edge of the park. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. 350 8th Street. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. % 702-2893303. For more information. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker.250 feet). 89301. Upper Lehman. Ely. To reach the campground from US 50. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. has 100 sites.300 feet. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. % 702-2893031. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. Pony Express Territory . operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. NV. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. There are 30 sites here at 7. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. The BLM. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road.752 feet.530 feet.
Throughout history. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. who described them as “lowly old giants. started pulling core samples.000 feet and more. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. not many of them stayed around very long. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. humans. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. The short.700 years. the oldest living thing on earth. call many parts of this high country home.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. reaching as high as 11. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. sagebrushcovered sea. the state animal. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. Named Methuselah. Today in Cowboy Country. however. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine.000-year-old duck decoys. . Desert bighorn sheep. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. He found one living specimen dating back 4. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. Edmund Schulman.
As remote as Cowboy Country can be. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. streams. bikers and equestrians. In 1993. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. Winter brings rain and snow. Elko headed the list of the 100 . and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. bass and other gamefish. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. and know how to use them. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. Carry good maps and a compass. lakes and reservoirs. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. towns like Winnemucca. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views.000 years. The weather here can be as wild as the land. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. Summers are generally hot and dry. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. In fact. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country.
and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. but thanks to new mining technology. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. paralleled the Humboldt River. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. In late 1860s. both held in Elko. Cowboy Country . after the riches ran out. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. lunch and dinner. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. but everyday tools. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. took to sheepherding. combed Cowboy Country. But since the early days. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. including one named Samuel Clemens.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. parts of which are still visible today. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. followed by the doomed Donner Party. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. others moved on. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. The famous trail. This is a place where pick-up trucks.
Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. With a population of just over 2. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. turn left on Derby Road. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush.300. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. arrived here in 1866.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. Five miles southwest of the shelter.000-square-mile Pershing County. which measures . I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. which crosses the Humboldt River. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. located on the southern outskirts of town. about 17 miles from Lovelock. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. The seat of 6. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. George Lovelock. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. which the company named after him. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. After eight miles. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds.
picnicperfect park. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. He may have been led there by Natchez. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. dark. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. NV 89419. Tufas. in 1886 or 1887. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. many of which were donated by locals. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. % 702-273-2713. PO Box 821. Mummified remains were found here. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. which also features the community pool. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. Admission is free. Scientific excavations. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. One of only two round courthouses in the country. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. the first ever in the Great Basin. are large. Lovelock. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. clothing and household items. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday.
% 702-538-7321. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach.134 n Cowboy Country vada. PO Box 821. NV 89419. as well as opportunities for boating. below) and wellmanicured homes. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. see below under Adventures. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). Open all year. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. About 16 families reside in Unionville. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. where stone . fishing and camping. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). which seems close enough to touch. % 702-273-2713. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. For details. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. After later taking the name Mark Twain. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. is centered on this man-made lake. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. Lovelock. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80.
In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. Admission is free. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. % 702/623-2225. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. the Humboldt Museum complex. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. a good spot for a picnic. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. a former resident. Edna Purviance. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. From here it’s five miles to the town. dancing. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). To reach Unionville from I-80. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. except for lunch. Today their descendants. % 702-623-2912.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. Winnemucca (population 7. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. Curator . the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. They later brought their families. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail.
NV 89445. 602 Bridge Street.000 in gold. but all are easily drivable. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. The former First National Bank. Another gem is the Shone House. Winnemucca. % 702-623-5025. St. one of two in the country. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. was erected in 1863. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. 352 Bridge Street. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. There is a gift shop next door. along with a thank you note. Winnemucca. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. % 800-962-2638. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. NV 89445. % 702623-5025. % 702-623-1500. Like something out of old Mexico. . is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. Winnemucca. NV 89445. US Forest Service. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. 705 East Fourth Street. NV 89445. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Winnemucca. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40.000. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. nabbing $32. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. 95 Bridge Street.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. The thieves escaped to Texas. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. The tour visits 30 sites.
Three years later the village became Paradise City. once a busy town of more than 2. To reach the remains of the camp. which . A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. The camp was abandoned by 1869. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and.300 people had moved by 1913. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. after fending off resident Paiutes. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. A 20th-century ghost town. the town was an empty shell. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. established Scottsdale in 1866. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. all but 250 people left. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. and 2. which serves as a meeting place and information center. Jungo. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. Today about 100 people live in town. along with the local watering hole.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. The Rochester Mining District. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. Midas is two miles from this junction. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later.
A state park. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. biking. beautiful high-country lake. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. % 702-578-3381. After all. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. (See Adventures and Camping.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. deli and soda fountain. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. % 702-623-5025. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. % 702-7383418. however. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. this town of about 25. is easy to locate.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. Just south of town. verdant marshes. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. The local mining. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. located on the extreme east end of town. offers a bar. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. sometimes an angler’s paradise. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. It’s the white. obtain maps. (See Adventures. this is Cowboy Country.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets.) In town. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. 1515 Idaho Street. In Winnemucca. Gas is also available.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. Basque . fishing and camping. Paradise Saloon.
(The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. Admission is free. % 800-654-3131.C. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. 9 AM to 5 PM.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. El Aero Services. Hertz Rent-A-Car. 501 Railroad Street. 1 PM to 5 PM. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. geology and industry abound. Harris Field. The Western Folklife Center. % 800-8727245. along with various other events throughout the year. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. also known as J. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. Displays of local wildlife. and a charter airline. % 800-331-1212. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. % 800-453-9417. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. For airport information. geography. 10 AM to 5 PM. and Sunday. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. % 702-738-7508. % 702-738-5131. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). is served by Delta Connection-Sky West.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. Deweys Rent-A-Car. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here.Touring n 139 immigrants. . % 702-738-7123.
89801. 89801. 3900 East Idaho Street. 89803. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. Elko. % 702-753-0200. Elko. Humboldt National Forest. 89801.800 feet). At the . set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. located southeast of Elko. passing Powerhouse picnic area. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. From Elko.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. % 702-738-7135.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest.387 feet at Ruby Dome. 700 Moren Way. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. % 800-248-ELKO. (See Adventures and Camping. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. Alpine vistas. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. % 702-738-5171. 976 Mountain City Highway. fishing and camping in the entire West. including the remote. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. Elko Chamber of Commerce. with elevations ranging up to 11. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. Elko. 1601 Idaho Street. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. 90. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. From town. Elko.
Yes. so drive cautiously. this town sticks to Mountain Time. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. For details on all of this. Even when they are open. and by the 1930s the rush was over. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. check with the owners of the Trading Post. More than 1. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. From Wells. From the south. Idaho. a high clearance vehicle is required. then north another 25 miles. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. For access to both.500 people flooded into the region. and there’s no argument here. down into Jarbidge Canyon. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. rising 11. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. see below. Nevada.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. the road meets the Jarbidge River. turns south. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. is spectacular. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. U-shaped valley. or call them at % 702-488-2315. is visible in the west. Ruby Dome. .Touring n 141 crest. The road leads east 21 miles. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. (See On Foot.387 feet.
Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. the 44. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. of course. try Stuart’s Foodtown. Sunday until 9 PM.) On the Utah side of the state line. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. The town was abandoned in 1942. % 702-752-3215. stare out across the famous. the main difference between the two sides being. To access the flats. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. % 801-665-7721. and the 37. n Wendover From Wells. This is also the junction of US 93. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. the main artery running up the east side of the state.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. head east from the border. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. 647 Humboldt Avenue. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. Before entering town. reached easily via a paved highway. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. which rises to 11. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. the presence of casinos. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. 4 and go five miles northeast. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. The range is also home to Angel Lake. Cool. Bonneville Speedway Museum. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. n Wells From Elko.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. both available at the Trading Post. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . just west of the Nevada-Utah border. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. For ghost town fans. exit at No. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. however.
is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. hawks. falcons and ospreys are common. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. Eagles.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. February Wells holds its annual chariot races.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. is held in late March or early April. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. the historic World War II B-29s. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. The night before the events. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. % 702-664-3414. which gains 1. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow.600 feet in two miles. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. a . June Both hay. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. first at the Miner’s Rodeo.000 buckaroos. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. which attracts upwards of 10. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country.
Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. . Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. call % 702-635-8245. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. For details. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets.or 23-mile loop. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. Near Wendover. The town of McDermitt. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. featuring food. There is a traditional dance contest. when tanks. six. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. dancing. The largest Basque get-together in the US. hear the music and eat the food.. In Wendover. under Touring. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. Unless otherwise indicated. Phone numbers can be found above. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. a parade and feats of strength. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. July In July. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park.
travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. Pronghorn antelope. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. leads due east toward the highest point. The first half of the moderately strenous. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. Falcon Press Publishing. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. The trail is punishing. To reach the trailhead. This makes for a great loop drive. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. Star Peak. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. From the top. the road.000 feet in four miles. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. Aspen. willow and cottonwood country. crossing Buffalo Creek. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. which . including the 31.732) is the highest point.200 feet. Star Peak (elevation 9. climbing more than 4. The trailhead appears after three miles. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. Granite Peak (elevation 9. To reach the trail. passable by high-clearance vehicles. From here. Chartered in 1989. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. 1994.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon.834 feet).
Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. USGS 7. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage.800 feet above sea . narrow canyons. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. Come prepared for anything. big horn sheep. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. descends toward a watercourse. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. cirque basins. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. about one mile south of town. Return the way you came. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. where you turn south. depending on weather conditions. Hikers can visit rock peaks. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. including Singas Creek. glacial lakes. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada.6 miles to a parking area. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks.” Elevations range from 6. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. Mountain lions.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip.415). This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. % 702-623-5025. more than 10. Horses are welcome on these trails.
sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. set at 9.400 feet. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. At 10. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. After about a mile and a half. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. Hyslop. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. as there are no trout here. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes.300-foot . While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket.500 feet. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. this is the high point of the trek. of course.400 feet and heads north. The five-mile. The pass is often closed in winter. and his dog Molly. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). so check road conditions before heading out. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. Pause to rest but not to fish. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. The 1. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. % 702-738-7135. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. know this region as well as anyone. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead.Adventures n 147 level. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. Franklin Lake NW. % 702-752-3357. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. From Roads End. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. Feel free.
which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. Most of the paths are found in the 113. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air.000-foot mark. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site.000 feet to 10. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. On a good day. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. The trail drops again. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. subalpine forests. Wild- . the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. Idaho. Just past the spring. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. the closest town. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open.700 feet. Unfortunately. From the trailhead. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. Finally. Return the way you came. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. Channel cats. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . The site has a paved boat ramp. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. For more information. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. mountain whitefish. supports brook. brown and rainbow trout. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. % 702-623-5025. is also a good fishing spot. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. call % 702-758-6493. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. and black bass have become a favorite catch. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. rainbows. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. and everything is open year-round. campsites and restrooms. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. To reach the lake from Elko. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District.
Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. white-faced ibis. including bald and golden eagle.000 acres. Within six miles of the trailhead. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. elevation 8. midway between the northern and southern portions. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. For an easier drive from Wells. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. % 702-738-5171. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. contact the US Forest Service. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. Turn left and head south 32 miles. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. Angel Lake Near Wells. trumpeter swam. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass.154 n Cowboy Country ers. so check road conditions before heading out. At the foot of the range. great sandhill crane. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. To reach the refuge from Elko. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. For more information. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. short-eared owl and American kestrel. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. . The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers.800 feet.
Elko Guide Service. HC 60. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. % 702779-2268. 89801. have become a local haven for divers. The reservoir also sports developed campsites.400-acre lake. % 702-777-DIVE. To reach the 2. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. crystalline Blue Lakes. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. PO Box 515. 1250 Lamoille Highway. 89833. Grandview Marine. 89801. % 702-7382775. 89801. PO Box 685. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. 285 12th Street. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. In warmer months. % 702-7388473. Rainbow. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . Raley’s. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. HC 60. Secret Pass Outfitters. % 702-664-3414. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. the spring-fed. % 702-7442277. For more information. the bowcut trout. 89833. HC30 Box 17 #13. % 702-625-2453. are the best bets here.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. % 702779-2226. catfish. 2511 Mountain City Highway. 423 South Bridge Street. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. 89801.
2805 Unionville Road. The Lovelock Inn. % 702-738-7135. The Best Western Sturgeon’s.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski.200 vertical feet. To reach the ranch from I80. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. % 702-273-2937.500 to 6. lounge.200 feet. with a 24-hour casino. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food.000 acres of skiable mountain. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. pool and jacuzzi. ranging from 5. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. is convenient to I-80. is the most happening place in town. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. Lunch and dinner are extra. covering 5. % 800-528-1234. Elko SnoBowl. % 702-538-7585. Trips are limited to 16 people. . 1420 Cornell Avenue. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. Although there isn’t a television to be found. $-$$. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. not to mention 74 rooms. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. depending on snowfall. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. then head west for five miles to town. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. The outfit boasts 5. offers 130 acres of terrain. $$. $$$. lodging and all the extras. 55 Cornell Avenue. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. % 702-753-6867. restaurant.500 feet. one tame and the other decidedly not so. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. there is a trout stream and pond near the property.
The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story.000. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. a lounge with live entertainment. $$. 400 1st Street. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. the Gold Country Motor Inn. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. the Super 8. basic motels on the main drag. the Red Lion Inn. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. 2050 Idaho Street. $-$$. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Days Inn. $-$$. There are plenty of cheap. $$-$$$$. $$. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. % 702-625-1818. $$-$$$. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). and the Model T Motel. the Ameritel Inn Elko. 3015 Idaho Street. % 800-645-5658. % 702-623-3661. casino. offering 70 rooms. % 702-738-8787. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. in- . $-$$. $$-$$$. is for you. The Red Lion not only has a casino. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. $$. restaurant and full bar. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. a pool and 223 rooms. and the Motel 6. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. % 702-623-5248. eateries. There are also two Best Westerns. $$. 837 Idaho Street. starting with the two biggies. $$$$$. 2065 Idaho Street. 1930 Idaho Street. % 702-738-8421. but also its own charter airline. the 170-room Holiday Inn. $$$. and the Holiday Motel. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$. % 702-7387261. % 702-623-1180. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. % 800-262-8901. offers 40 rooms.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. % 800-346-5306. % 702-623-3646. % 702-623-1116. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. % 800-545-0044. The Gold Country Inn. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the Red Lion Inn. restaurant and bar. the 80-room Val-U Inn. $-$$. % 702-738-8425. $$. including the queen of Elko establishments. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. Casino Express. with 150 rooms. % 800-633-6435. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the generic.
Lamoille. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. $$$-$$$$. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. . % 702-753-6356. % 702-738-7115. has 70 rooms. % 702-753-6363. There is even space for campers and RVers. % 702-753-6281. biking and horseback riding. % 702-738-5522.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. $$$$. jacuzzi and fitness center. 345 Idaho Street. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. 1755 Idaho Street. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. bar and pool. $$. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. is an exclusive. including skeet shooting. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. some with kitchenettes. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. % 702-578-3530. $$-$$$. along with a pool. Red’s Ranch. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. 2401 Mountain City Highway. detached cabin with jacuzzi. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. Stonehouse Country Inn. 89828. a swimming pool. $-$$. % 702-738-5141. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. Jiggs Guest Ranch. $$$-$$$$. 340 Commercial Street. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. There are 141 rooms. Away from Idaho Street. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. $$$-$$$$. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. Stockmen’s Hotel. $-$$. The Shilo Inn. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. restaurants. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. PO Box 281381. PO Box 281208. Just outside of Lamoille. and the Thunderbird Motel. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. $$-$$$. hiking and fly fishing. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. % 702-738-8488. $-$$. $$.
which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. even by the neighbors in Utah. PO Box 260090. $-$$. if you’re into chains. If not. $$$-$$$$. the Rest Inn Suites. $-$$. % 702-752-3384. Cottonwood Ranch. most of them planted along 6th Street. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. $. % 702-752-2151. $$-$$$. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. $. 100 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-752-3888. % 702-752-2116. HC 62. Jarbidge.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. On Main Street. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. offers another 24 rooms. 89826. $$-$$$. 326 6th Street. which also has a restaurant and bar. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. Together . The Super 8. % 702-752-2277. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. $. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. % 702-7523065. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. % 800-848-7300. There are 57 rooms. HC 62. % 702-488-2315. For more information. There are more than 1. $-$$. % 702-752-2101. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. the Outdoor Inn. 930 6th Street. $-$$$$. and the Best Western Sage Motel. % 702-488-2311. 576 6th Street. 1250 East 6th Street. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. % 702-752-3353. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. % 702-4082338. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. $. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. $-$$. % 702-752-3604. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. PO Box 1300. PO Box 300. and the Old West Inn. has 56 rooms. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. On the north side of town. Down the street. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. 456 6th Street. the Chinatown Motel.
% 800-537-0207. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. $$-$$$. restaurants. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. 750 Cornell Avenue.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. Wee B’s Pizza & More. which has live entertainment. and until 2 PM on Sunday. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. 485 Cornell Avenue. pool. 260 Maine Street.000-square-foot casino. % 702-273-2971. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. lounges. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. % 702-273-7773. tennis courts. Nearby. pool and jacuzzi. jacuzzi. is open until 10 PM every day. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. live entertainment. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. % 800-648-9660. $$. offers breakfast. leg of lamb. % 702-273-3232. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. . serving steak. and Pizza Factory. % 702-273-2442. In the center of town. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. with 90 rooms. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. Mexican food and pizza. along with daily specials. % 702-623-3197. including restaurants and lounges. 410 Cornell Avenue. which basks in the Basque tradition. $-$$. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. a health club. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. a 14. is another gamer’s haven. 9 PM on Sunday. 1420 Cornell Avenue. % 702-664-2888. % 702-273-7444. live showroom entertainment. shrimp and Basque side dishes. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. The Peppermill Hotel. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. lunch and dinner. La Casita. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. the Super 8. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino.
The Steak House. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. 95 South Bridge Street. % 702-623-6777. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. % 702-738-5141. 340 Commercial Street. % 702-623-4440. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-625-2555. % 702-738-9691. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. Another Basque establishment. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-4104. China Garden. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. home of the world’s largest potato field. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. 405 Silver Street. but get there before 1 PM. while The Griddle. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. % 702-623-2908. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. since 1863. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. 180 Melarkey Street. 1061 West Fourth Street. . It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. % 702-623-3455. Restaurante San Fermin. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. Specializing in steak. The atmosphere is definitely casual. % 800-545-0044. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. This being ranch country. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. seafood and chicken. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. % 702-623-2977. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. 1550 Idaho Street. 2065 Idaho Street. Stockmen’s Hotel. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. all of their meat is cut to order. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. % 702-738-3214.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. Elko The Red Lion Inn. Toki Ona.
also serves hearty meals. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. % 702-4882315. Pizza Barn. % 702-738-7898. Main and Humboldt Streets. opens daily at 11 AM. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. La Fiesta. % 702-752-3210. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. % 702-753-6356. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. delivers on its name. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. to peruse the ornate bar. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. % 702-738-1622. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. where it survived The Big One in ’06. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. 217 Idaho Street. 1740 Mountain City Highway. . Pine Lodge. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. 780 Commercial Street. % 702-7382541. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. Prices range from moderate to expensive. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. If you crave Mexican food. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. % 702-753-6363. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. % 702-488-2311. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. Burger Bar. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere.300 souls. 9 Beans and a Burrito. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. % 702-753-3877. 2525 Mountain City Highway. % 702-738-7088. depending on weather conditions.
which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. For modern hunter-gatherers. just north of the dam. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway.400 feet. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. The main draw here is 11. which holds trout and walleye. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca.600 feet. Fees are $7 per night in summer. offer 12 different restaurants. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. There is running water and vault toilets. For more information.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. 22 miles north of Lovelock. Set at 7. $3 per night in winter. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. 100 Wendover Boulevard. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. two beautiful US Forest Service . located at the end of Hanson Street. For more information. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. 27 and 29 are especially good. The fee is $7 per night. Set at 7. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. The Peppermill Hotel. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. $8 for a two-family site. % 800-648-9660. call % 702-538-7321. call % 702-738-5171. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. Sites 22. call % 800-962-2638. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. 23.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. The other one. % 800-848-7300. 25. the area has two campgrounds. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. For more information. 680 Wendover Boulevard.
Angel Creek is set at 6. and are open June to October. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. For information on the above campgrounds. For more information. and the fee is $7 per night. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. % 702-752-3357. with running water. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. One mile north of town. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. The cabins are open October through mid-May.900 feet. all free. % 208-5434129. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. depending on the availability of running water. first-served sites. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. The fee is $5 per night. including three run by the US Forest Service. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. offering 18 sites with running water. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. has 37 first-come.800 feet and is popular with anglers. Set at 8. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. About five miles up NV 225. . Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir.500 feet. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. but no running water. The campground. and the fee is $8 per night. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site.
Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. both socially and physically. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. Others. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. an 11. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. who once roamed this entire area. Meanwhile. however. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. US For- B Pioneer Territory . like Silver Peak and Goldfield. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. writer. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. like Belmont and Rhyolite. are in a state of “arrested decay. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. Nevada Division of State Parks. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. In the Mojave Desert. Toiyabe. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. In the lowlands. Department of Defense. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada.Touring n 167 est Service. low taxes. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. Geographically. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. and six state parks to explore. but the rest of the country. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. Rocky Mountain elk. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. affordable housing .000. People and services are scarce. then limber pine at higher elevations. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. forests of pinyon pine and juniper.
% 702-7270896. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. % 702-751-0821. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). The 22. According to Winona LaDuke. mission-style. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. On the south end of town in a modern.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. only winery in Nevada. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. is the first and. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. It’s also one of the hottest. 1771 Sagehen Road. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. % 702-727-5800.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . In 1997. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. there’s no competition). blue and white building. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. authorizing up to 90. as of this writing. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. 1141 South Highway 160. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. 3810 Winery Road. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. contact the Chamber of Commerce. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. % 702-7276900.
inaccessible to the general public. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. It’s no easy job. moorhens. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron.300 spread over 545 square miles. great blue herons. then head west for about 20 miles. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. coots. and the second-greatest in all of North America. % 702-372-1131. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. for some handmade Mexican food. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. coyotes and rabbits. Visitors can. % 702-372-5435. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. including ducks. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. whitefaced ibises. NV 89020. Box 610Z. however. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. Amargosa Valley. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. mallards. snipe. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. . Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. HCR 70. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. following the signs to Ash Meadows. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. prairie falcons. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country.
170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. the gray. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. maps. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. three newspapers. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. NV 89020.000 claims over 30 square miles.000. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. % 702-5532200. 50 saloons. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. for more information. and the old train depot. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. HC 70. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. 19 hotels. Now recognized as a state historic site. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. Amargosa Valley. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. PO Box 6102. Kelly’s Bottle House. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. % 702-3725459.000. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. . Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley.
Once the largest city in the state. constructed in 1908 for $500. crystal chandeliers.000 dizzy with gold fever. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. life-size. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches.000. when the money ran dry. . shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. % 702-553-2424. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. keeping a population of more than 20. Goldfield Founded in 1902. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. In the first decade of the 20th century. Today the remains of stone buildings. By 1920. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. Local residents were used as models. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. however. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. turn-of-the-century frontier community. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby.” a collection of white. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984.
% 702-482-9676. including the old post office that is now the local museum.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. and east-west-running US 6. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. however. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. % 702-485-6365. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. and spend a few hours following its trail. the Central Nevada Museum. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. Before heading out. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. 301 Brougher Avenue. % 702482-3558. built in 1908 and still in use today. . more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat.
Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. photographs and exhibits. ore bins. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. As this is being written. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. Like many Nevada locales. Located on the north edge of town. Bartlett House. 9 AM to 5 PM.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. which helped put the state on the map. see below under On Foot. Mineral. Admission is free. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. In 1911. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. the town exploded – figuratively – and . including a map room. with Hawthorne the new seat. which total more than 260. slide show and research facilities. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. For more on these wonderful regions. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. For more information. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. As a judge. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. which dates to 1906. power plants. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. call % 702-482-5355. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. The museum is open daily. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne.000 acres. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. A library. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. are available by special request. and the 1907 George A.
shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. rocks. To reach Candelaria. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. the town boasted 1. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. Admission is free. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. wildlife and fossils. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. 898 E Street. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. paved road on the right. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. minerals.) Before heading to the lake. below. % 702-945-5142. The main attraction. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. (See On Water. To see where it all started. restaurant and Native American gift shop.500 people. Near the northern tip of the lake. At the zenith of its existence. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. cameras and photography. noon to 4 PM in winter. Nevada seat and the Mono . Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. is nearby Walker Lake. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. The museum is open Monday through Friday. % 702-945-3266. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. at the corner of 10th and D streets. Take this road six miles to the town. and by 1890 the good times were over.000 residents. fire and railroad equipment. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. however.000. just three miles from the California border. The Mineral County Museum. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. a combination truck stop. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. Victorian furniture. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. % 702-728-4467. There are 42 campsites. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. below). The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. located in a long. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. The 2. but travel is not advised during winter months.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. set at 5. From Caliente. native plants and unique rock formations.200 feet. is open year-round. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. All of them offer overnight camping. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. The park. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. For information on any or all. along with many other events. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. Boats are not recommended. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. pinyon and juniper forests. From . which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March.
but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. Packed with historic points of interest. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. From Caliente. hazy afternoon.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente.000. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. There are 37 campsites. government cover-ups. Winter travelers might also find snow here. % 702-962-5215. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. for a walking/driving tour map. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. men in black and all things conspiratorial. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. they ran up to $1 million. true believers theorize. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. All told. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. The original building costs totaled $16. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park.
If you’re in the neighborhood. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. a thought scarier than any little green men. or fish lizards. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. The park is open all year. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. selling souvenirs and literature. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. Ichthyosaurs. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. sleeping quarters. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. including the old mill. % 702-729-2515. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. a bar and cemetery. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea.
From here go seven miles to a junction. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. The hike begins on the road. travel west six miles to NV 773. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. call % 702-867-3001. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike.000 feet in 3½ miles. June. October and November. then half a mile east. turn right. August. For more information.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. up through the sparse forest of . Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. mountain lion. the highest point in Nevada at 13. to NV 884. The trail seems faint at times. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. Interpretive tours are held in March. July. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. through Gabbs. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. deer. elk. Located in the relatively dry. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. following a stream into Trail Canyon. From here. To reach the park from Hawthorne. There are numerous access points to the 115. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. Return the way you came. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. where desert bighorn sheep. The trail climbs nearly 2.140 feet. April. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle.
go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. Pine Creek. The main trail leads straight ahead. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. USGS quads for Carvers NW. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. pinyon pine and juniper. Consult Toms Canyon. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range.020-foot Peavine Peak. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. limber pine. The path descends further. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike.000 acres are covered with sagebrush.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. The 38. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. too. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak.361-foot Arc Dome. and at higher elevations. About 500 yards beyond the mill. up and up alongside the South Twin River. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. About a mile and a half later. . where it crosses the water several times. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. another narrow. nine miles from the trailhead. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. the trail gains 1. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead.
you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. In fact. It was used as a hunting camp 5. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. . From Tonopah. Turn left and head toward the highest point.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. which marks the way to Pine Creek.000 years ago. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. Return the way you came. which tops out at 11. is imposing Mount Jefferson. going west. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. mountain lion. deer and coyote. is lined with aspen and birch. The summit trail. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. The high point. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. literally and figuratively. After turning west. 11.949 feet above sea level. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. south. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up.
There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. Elk. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. This is remote. The main trail continues straight ahead. To complete a nice loop hike. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. The trail first splits at mile three. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. set aside in 1989. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. From the trailhead. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. rugged country. Hikers should have maps and a compass. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. and the skills to use them. so travel with care. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail.856foot Monitor Peak. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . climbing up the creek drainage. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. As you’ll see. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands.000 acres. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. The 98. with Dry Lake off to the west.
Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. Once atop the plateau. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. Enjoy the views. Also close by. some will lead hikes and photography trips. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. 1997. then descending into Ash Canyon. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. then continue south two miles back to the campground. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. % 702-4826286.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. refer to Michael C. in Echo Canyon State Park. Wilderness Press. crosses the water and begins a steep. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. White’s masterful book. Meanwhile. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. .
Mason Valley Guide Service. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. you’ve gone too far. 89317. Lewis. Galvin. PO Box 1149. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. then continues south to a junction. PO Box 428. Just beyond the right-of-way. % 702-465-2598. Yerington Marty S. % 702-482-6258. 89430. 89045. % 702-482-6422. 89049. Moapa Adam R. leaving a strenuous. % 702-964-2145. Smith.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. 89045. The road turns east briefly. . Expeditions Unlimited. Berg. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. 27 Smith Gage Road. Box 77206. 8½ miles from US 95. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. unmarked hike to the summit. 89447. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Stahl. PO Box 168. at 9.108 feet. 89025.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines.. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Round Mountain William A. Grand Slam Safaris. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. Lund Gary Luisetti. Nicholas Perchetti. Timberline Outfitters. Jr. % 702-463-4497. which. PO Box 725. Howard. % 702-964-1207. Roy Lerg. 89049. James S. Timberline Outfitters. climbing into a small valley. PO Box 162. Mustang Outfitters. (If you pass Millers. HCR 60. % 702-283-7797. PO Box 65. turn left and head due south.
000 to construct in 1876. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. Just north of Pine Creek. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . Belmont saw most of the 2. Continuing north. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. which was first settled in the 1860s. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. and Pine Creek. For road conditions. The Belmont Saloon. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. The other ruins are on private property. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. A few dozen people still live in the area. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. % 702377-2490. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. is open for business on weekends. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. % 702-482-6331.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. so keep your distance. known for abundant wildlife.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. Manhattan boomed. however.
Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. . the fauna changes to ponderosa. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. stay out. to establish missions. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. The springs are half a mile away. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. but check on road conditions before you go. Not only is the water very hot. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. % 702-482-7800. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. mountain mahogany and aspen. As tempting as a bath might seem. From Pioche. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. For more information contact the BLM. Continuing north. Wilson National Back Country Byway. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. Take an unpaved road . where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. then part of Utah Territory. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. Pioneer Territory Mt. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area.2 mile west of Lockes going south. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road).
where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. 13. Just a mile north of Dyer. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. cutthroat and rainbow trout. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. % 702727-4504.140-foot Boundary Peak. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. contact the BLM.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. 5340 South Oakridge Road. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. % 702-727-8276. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. % 702289-4865. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. At Oakridge Landing. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. Two of the best spots are Peavine . brown. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. Information Sources For more information and a map. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek.
October and November. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use.4 miles). For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. picnic facilities and boat ramp.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers.7 miles north of Hawthorne). however. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. The lake is named for Joe Walker. After the road peters out. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. Fishing derbies are held in February. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. % 702-482-6286. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne.000 acres. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. Covering 37. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. In fact. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. rainbow and brown trout. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. .Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. April. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California.
about 13 miles south of the confluence. % 760-872-2533 . 633 Schley Street.000 acres. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Brown trout. while Canada geese. Boaters are welcome. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Bishop. NV 89415. % 702-725-3417. write the group at PO Box 867. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. are the main attraction here. 93514. CA. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. Hawthorne. Classic Anglers. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. for details. Kathleen L. but motors are prohibited. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. Contact the refuge office. largemouth bass and white crappie. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. % 702-394-4040. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. Howe. which are stocked in spring and fall. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides.
The big enchilada is Saddle West. Box 77206. Nicholas Perchetti. PO Box 168. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. home on the range. HCR 60. The family-style outings. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. Jr. 89049. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. PO Box 725. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. James S. Mustang Outfitters. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. 89104. % 702-3721717. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. 89045. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. PO Box 1149. Tonopah Stanley R. Stahl. Suite 9B. % 702-482-6258. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. % 702-964-2145. at least temporarily. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture.. Timberline Outfitters. % 702-889-8844. 89049. 89447. % 702-964-1207. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. 89045. Advance reservations are highly suggested. Berg. Timberline Outfitters. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. PO Box 65. Galvin. Howard. % 702-482-6422. 1220 South Highway 160. Mason Valley Guide Service.
604 Main Street. . The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. was built in 1905. $-$$. though. % 702-553-2225. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. % 702-727-5100. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. The other two motels are the El Portal. casino and lounge. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. 9000 North 5th Avenue. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. lounge. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. The Exchange Club Motel. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. $-$$. 420 West Main Street. a casino with live 21. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. $-$$. Don’t worry. A lounge with live entertainment. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. $-$$. % 702-553-2333. non-smoking rooms and a pool. while the inn offers laundry services. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. $. has 32 rooms. $-$$. US 95 at First Street. % 702-727-5445. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. % 702-553-2250. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. $-$$. 1201 South Highway 160. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. $-$$. % 702-4853431. Highway 160 at Loop Road. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. % 800-508-9493. $-$$. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. There are 60 rooms. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. $. a restaurant. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. % 702553-2912. hair salon. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. In short. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. With 110 rooms. along with a pool and honeymoon room. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. a convenience store. including a heated pool. which has 30 rooms and a pool.
% 702-482-9777. There are 103 rooms. Adjacent to Walker Lake. a heated pool and a small play area. The .Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. This place has it all: 75 rooms. with 40 rooms. restaurants. lounge with entertainment. Just a block away. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. $. % 702-482-6224. and the sprawling Station House. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. $$. $$. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. free movies and is close to the convention center. 1402 5th Street. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. has 39 rooms. $. 255 Main Street. two restaurants. 1301 5th Street. % 702-482-3577. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. location. % 702-482-6202. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. Location. 826 Main Street. and the 33-room Clown Motel. a restaurant and free coffee. 323 Main Street. % 702-945-2660. comes highly rated. % 702-945-3321. $. including four two-bedroom units. which has 93 rooms. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. $. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. workout equipment. % 702-482-3511. $. The Jim Butler Motel. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. also has a pool. the Butler has 25 rooms. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. RV parking and free continental breakfast. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. 1 Cliff House Road. % 702-945-2444. Even dogs are welcome. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. lounge. $. 540 F Street. % 702482-5920. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. % 702-482-6238. 100 South Main Street. % 702-945-3352. $. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. $-$$. The Best Western Desert Lodge. a Jacuzzi and a pool. 100 North Main Street. at very reasonable rates. 521 North Main Street. RV hookups. Some of the larger. It has 94 rooms. pool and free in-room coffee. % 702-482-6291. a casino. with a restaurant. 700 Main Street. 1100 Main Street. a casino. arcade and laundry. Dating back to 1908. a restaurant and bar. If you’re into chains. has been catering to travelers since 1943. $. $.
a pool. $-$$. % 702-465-2959. a pool and a hot tub.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. 11 North Main Street.900 or so residents. $$-$$$. pool. formerly Players Island. and the Rocket. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. which at last count had 1. $-$$$. 39 North Center Street. % 702-463-2998. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. % 702-465-2573. which has two non-smoking rooms. entertainment. $-$$. % 800-346-7721. $$-$$$. a pair of family-style restaurants. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. pool and movie theater. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. airport shuttle. on the corner of 5th and J streets. tennis courts. % 702-945-2143. golf course. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. $. Run by the Masini family. To find a quieter environment. . Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. has five rooms. with a 24-hour casino. live entertainment. has 67 rooms. % 702-463-2991. 390 North Sandhill Road. $. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. $-$$. restaurants. $. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. % 800-621-0187. % 800-346-4611. a 925-seat showroom. the Hawthorne. fitness center and live music. with blueprints for hundreds more. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. The Casa Blanca. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. % 702-945-2573. which has 14 rooms. 720 Sierra Highway. % 800-896-4567. Jacuzzi.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. Just west of Smith in Wellington. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. $$. 17 miles southwest of Yerington.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. $$-$$$. 2827 Highway 208. % 702-945-3316. which has 14 rooms. $$. various restaurants. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. movie theater and kids’ play area. Jacuzzi. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. 301 Mesa Boulevard. bowling alley. % 702-463-2481. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 694 Sierra Highway. Jacuzzi. including dozens of suites. pool and spa. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. $. a lounge. has 700 rooms. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. pool. % 702-346-7444. $-$$. RV park and four bungalows. % 702-465-2341. $$. a golf course. 965 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-2544. family fun center and an airport shuttle. bars.
Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375.99. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. $-$$. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. Stagestop Casino. $-$$. $. $. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. % 702-726-3291. has 13 rooms. the Silver Spur. % 702-727-7300. 450 Front Street. % 702-727-6440. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. 601 South Highway 160. pharmacy and bank. . The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. which has 22 rooms. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. Besides. No fast food. Flying saucer parking is out back. which has five rooms. Rose Garden. At Saddle West Casino. % 702-726-3106. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. % 702-9625404. % 702726-3777. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. % 702-962-5551. % 702-729-2515. $. % 702-751-7777. and welcomes pets. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. % 702-727-7777. 100 West Stagecoach Road. % 702-727-0909. 100 LaCour Street. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. also have full-service restaurants. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. a restaurant and bar. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. is open 24 hours a day. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. % 702-727-2404. $. 1220 South Highway 160. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. and the buffet starts at $2. 884 A Street. and the nine-room Motel Pioche.
923 5th Street. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. 501 I Street. 348 North Main Street. % 702-945-5253. % 702-9452994. and Burro Inn. % 702-482-6202. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. % 800508-9493. 785 E Street. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. 11 North Main Street. % 702-945-3908. Traditional American and Continental fare. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. % 702482-9777. also have family-style restaurants. % 702-463-2481. is the home of two restaurants. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. 100 North Main Street. % 702-5532225. has a great $7. fill the menu. % 702-945-2727. Maggies. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. % 702-553-2368. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. % 702-945-3320. 1291 5th Street. % 702-4823885. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. % 702-945-3321. 540 F Street. The Station House.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. open until 9 PM. including excellent seafood. 1100 Main Street.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. 570 E Street. % 702-945-1700. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. Yerington Casino West. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. % 702-553-2111. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. The . you could do worse than El Marques. also has a 24-hour café. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. The Exchange Club. try Happy Buddha.
702-726-3138. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. satisfying and never-ending. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. 11 North ALT 95. To reach the campground from Tonopah. Peavine Campground is set at 6. lunch and dinner. % 702-727-2314. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. Dini’s Luck Club. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. Two blocks up. The Casa Blanca. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. has a 24-hour coffee shop. % 800-621-0187. Carl’s Burgers. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. % 702-463-2054.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702-4633707. 111 Highway 208. % 702-7263194. 45 North Main Street. 2281 West Scales Way. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. % 702-4623300. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . % 800-346-7721. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. The Virgin River Hotel. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. serves breakfast. There’s even an indoor workout facility. along with the usual buffet. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. is like a blast from the 50s. The Mason Valley Country Club. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. % 800-896-4567.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. % 702463-2868. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. which serves breakfast. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range.
through Belmont. the unpaved road goes south briefly. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. % 702-687-6100. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. To reach the campground from Tonopah. For information. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. The campground is another three miles away. providing access to fishing and hiking. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites.800 feet in the Monitor Range. contact the BLM. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness.700 feet. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. From here. To reach the campground from Tonopah. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. . above. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. For directions.100foot level. % 702-945-3373. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. From Tonopah. see On Foot. There is no running water and no fee. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. offers sites for $11 per night. There are 11 sites set at 6. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. % 702-4826286. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. privately owned Desert Lake Campground.
Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. 1990. David Communications. American Automobile Association. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. 1998. 1993. Suggested Reading . Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. 1995. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Frank Amato Publications. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. DeLorme. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. 1994. Noonday Press. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. Falcon Press Publishing. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. 1997. 1995. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. Henry Holt and Company. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. Basin and Range by John McPhee. Falcon Press Publishing. They are listed in alphabetical order. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. published by the State of Nevada. 1996. Moon Publishing. American Automobile Association. 1993. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. 1997.
Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Wilderness Press.. Bischoff. 1997. Clark. Jr. 1993. 1969. American & Geographic World Publishing. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Falcon Press Publishing. Gem Guides Book Company. Falcon Press Publishing. White. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Mojave Books. Maturi. 1997. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. Stolley. 1993. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. The Globe Pequot Press. . La Siesta Press. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. 1997. 1992. Legend and Description by David J. 1995.
89. 2. Pioneer territory. 152. see water sports car rental. 29. 200 Basque people. camping. Pony Express territory. 179. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 92-96. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 104-107. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 15-16 bird watching. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 117-119. fishing. 169. 194. 117-118. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 124 auto racing. Leonard Rock Shelter. specific towns airlines. 27. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 77. 174 canoeing. touring. 199. 137 Candelaria. 76. fishing.183. see also camping. see also zoos. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 185. Pioneer territory. 144. biking. price scale. see transportation air tours. Bonneville Salt Flats. 193. safety rules. 118. 78 BLM. 125-128. 194. 36. Reno-Tahoe area. 27 books. events. hiking. hiking. 115. camping. Mount Jefferson. 169-170 Anasazi people. 152. biking. see transportation Carson City. 198. restaurants.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 50-52. 184. 168-169. 43-44. 42 burros. Las Vegas area. 129-130 bungee jumping. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 186 Belmont. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 85. 179. touring. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. Reno-Tahoe area. 104. Lovelock Indian Cave. 102. Pony Express territory. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 142. festivals. 32. skydiving. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 10-12. 35. wagon trips. 86. 193-197. camping. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. Las Vegas. 115-116 ballooning. 182-183. pictographs art galleries. 17. hiking outfit- Index . 17. 163-164. touring. 132-133. 123. biking. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. Pioneer territory. 15-16. Pony Express territory. accommodations. 91 Barley Creek. 187-190. 155 boating. 119-120. 146. horseback riding. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 200 altitude sickness. camping. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 120-123. 164. 49. 198. see also petroglyphs. 113. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 8386. 182. special events. 94-95. 144. 46. 187-188 biking. 28. 78. 193 Aurora. 181-182. 183-184. 121. Reno-Tahoe area. Cottonwood Valley. 126. 48-49. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. restaurants. 118. 132. 13-15. 144 backpacking. 38. 13. 103. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 3135. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. safety rules. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. restaurants. Las Vegas territory. 54-55. 67 bowling. 131. wild. 199-201. restaurants. outfitters. 41-43. 10. 197. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. Elko. 15-16. 154 animal life. transportation. 135. 67-70. 117. Ichthyosaur State Park. 174-175 Austin. 26-27 buses. 156160. 187-190. camping. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). touring. events. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. accommodations. 75-76. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 142.
170. fishing. mercury warnings. Las Vegas area. transportation. 157-158. 171. safety rules. hiking outfitters. John C. Las Vegas territory. restaurants. outfitters. 139140 Ely. 116-117. 163-164. 12. 15-16. hiking. camping. hiking. 109. 88. 116. 75. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 89. 170-171 Denio Junction. horseback riding. 122-123. 15-16 Fremont. sport-climbing ratings. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 106.. 83. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. Toquima Cave. Gold Center. Samuel. 120. camping. 131. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. touring. 112. 18-19 climbing. Metropolis. 82. 109. 111.5 Cathedral Gorge. 29. 174-175. 79. 182. restaurants. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 109. 143-144. 118. 180 Earth Connections. Las Vegas area. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. Northumberland Cave. 12. Pony Express territory. 102-104. Cowboy country. 120-121. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 106 diving. 98. 117. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. events. 37-41. touring. 74 Death Valley National Park. 70-71. Rhyolite. 125. 78 casinos. 184. 200 Cowboy Country. 65 gambling. biking. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 139 cruises. 155-156. 171-172 Gold Point. Reno-Tahoe area. 185. 137. 98 fossils. 108 events: Cowboy country. Pioneer territory. 121-122. 138-139. 179. accommodations. outfitters. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 100. 185. 186 elk. 40. 87 Dayton. 119. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 74. 67. fishing. 152-155. 13-15. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 35-36. Pyramid Lake Fishway. Jungo. Shermantown. touring. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. hiking. Pioneer territory. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. Rochester Mining District. special events. 119. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. camping. 179. 124. 194-195. 190-193. 127. restaurants. 188-189 fishing. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 75. 112. restaurants. Reno-Tahoe territory. Lovelock Indian Cave. 142 Great Basin. touring. 73. Midas. 149-150. 110. accommodations. 22. 167. 6-7 ters. 139. Eberhardt. 44-48. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 179. skiing. 112 Genoa. camping. 169. 14 Colorado River. Lehman Caves. fishing. 4. 80. 178. 125. 119-120. 176. springfish. auto racing. 147-148 Eberhardt. 137. see events fish. 150-151. camping. 77. 144. 174. 126-127. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 175 climate. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 126. 3. Camp Winfield Scott. 109 Glacier Trail. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 190 . 143. 188-189 Clemens. 168. 170. 179. 137. pupfish. Treasure City. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 4-5 Gardnerville. 155. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 142. 177. restaurants. 115 Gold Center. accommodations. camping. 152. 125. 134-135. 161-162. camping. Candelaria. 97. 177. 187-190. outfitters. Lake Tahoe area. Hamilton. 132-133. 172 golf. fishing. 86. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 192. 137. outfitters. Dunn Hatchery. 17. camping. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 121. 46 Comstock Lode. 160 Goshute Mountains. touring. 43-44. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 176.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 70. 153 Chimney Springs. 71 Cottonwood Creek.
86. Reno-Tahoe territory. 187 Manhattan. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 120 Incline Village. Nevada. 103 Hamilton. 98. skiing. 160. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. Reno. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. restaurants. 177 mercury warnings.Index Great Basin National Park. 45. 41-43. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. transportation. camping. 43. 129-131. 118. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. 150. 152. 164. 78. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. air tours. 106. 82. 41. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 75. camping. special events. Pony Express territory. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 31-35. 146. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. skiing. Kyle Hot Spring. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. touring. biking. fishing. 20. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 53-54. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. state. 158. 24. restaurants. 39. 132 Lexington Arch. 82. 46. camping. 118 Lone Mountain. hiking. 32 horseback riding. 46. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 116-117. 1. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 36. 4WD trail. 78-79 Jungo. 90 helicopter tours. 65. fishing. 99-100. 70 Humboldt National Forest. Pioneer territory. 32-33. 47. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. camping. biking. 179 Kingston. watersports. 28. Las Vegas area. 46. restaurants. 166. 195-196. 44 Las Vegas territory. 49-50. Pioneer territory. 29-31. 40-41. 52-53. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 148-149 Humboldt River. 130. 77. camping. Las Vegas. 162. 198. 188-189. 38. Las Vegas territory. 37-41. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. events. 148-149 jeep tours. 48-49. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. events. 60. hiking. touring. 32-33 Lake Mohave. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 55. 156. 39 history: Cowboy country. 193. camping. 127. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. outfitters. 57-58. 159. 91-92. 93. touring. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 54. 151. 149-150. 90. 13-15. hiking. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. transportation. 107. 176. 37-40. description of. Las Vegas territory. 47 lakes. touring. hiking outfitters. 181-187. 163. restaurants. 140-141 land. outfitters. Pony Express territory. 145-150. 83-84. camping. 79. 91 information sources. snow sports outfitters. 111. 186-187. 83. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. touring. 62. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 110-112. 162. 3536. 192. 83. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 101. 23-29. Midas Hot Spring. accommodations. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 112-117. 149. 125. 153. balloning and soaring. 64. 137 kayaking. 141-142. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 80-81 hiking. Walley’s Hot Springs. Cowboy country. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 102. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 64. see air tours Hemenway Park. 165-167. outfitters. transportation. 50-52. 40. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. hiking. 21-22. 200-201. horseback riding. 150. 119 Index . 48. restaurants. RenoTahoe territory. 66. water sports. touring and transportation. Pony Express territory. touring. camping. restaurants. Pioneer territory. 117 hotels. Spencer’s Hot Springs. hiking outfitters. map. boating outfitters. Reno-Tahoe territory. 88. touring. 63-66. 57.
61 music and theater. Liberace Museum. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 8. 153 Northumberland Cave. 188. 103. 67. 175. 80-81 Native American festivals. Las Vegas Art Museum. 25-26. 133. 139. fishing. 25. 33. 69. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 8182 Mesquite. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 4. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 142. see accommodations motorcycles. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. touring. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 200 motels. camping. 139. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. hiking outfitters. 4. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 187 Mojave Desert. 83. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 35. 106 nuclear testing. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 73. Keck Minerals Museum. 193-194. 3-4. touring. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 170. Colorado River Museum. Wilbur D.206 n Index seum. 25. 163. 70-71 mines and mining. Piper’s Opera House. 177. 135136. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 26. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 73. 61. 134 petroglyphs. hiking. 71. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 165 nuclear waste. Northeastern Nevada Museum. Nevada Historical Society. 107. 23 Overton: touring. The Castle. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 43. 158. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 79. Humbolt Museum. 127 pictographs. see biking mountain biking. horseback riding. 200. 167-168 Paiutes. Nevada State Library & Archives. White Pine Public Museum. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 173. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 69. Lost City Museum. Virginia & Truckee Depot. The Way It Was Museum. 26. 189-190 Muir. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 196197. 34. Nevada State Mu- . accommodations. 177. 178. restaurants. fishing. 73. 71. Desert Valley Museum. 199-200. Guinness World of Records Museum. Mineral County Museum. 86. 165. John. Capitol Building and Museum. 177. 68. Roberts House Museum. hiking. 91. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 135. 181 Moapa. 199. 61. 108. Stewart Indian Museum. 197-198. 77. 29 Mount Jefferson. 174. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 174. restaurants. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 98. 31. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 171. 34. 73. 26. Central Nevada Museum. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 183. National Automobile Museum. 34. 175. 153. 69. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 68. 10. 171. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 173. touring. see biking Mount Charleston. 25. 72. 34. 75. 109-110. Clark County Heritage Museum. 102. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 68. Marzen House Museum. 11 Mosquito Creek. 70. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. outfitters. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 107. 199 Metropolis. 61. 25. skiing and snowboarding. 2. Western Folklife Center. Brewery Arts Center. 32. Mark Twain Museum. 71. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 69. Marshall Mint Museum. 26. 23. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 69. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 43. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 126. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. fishing. 2. 78. 2. 29. 174. 180 Minden: events. 113 Mount Rose: camping. Fleischmann Planetarium. Lyon County Muserum. 142 Midas. 109. 61. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 173. 72-73. 73. camping. 25. May Museum and Arboretum.
160-163. 48-49 snowboarding. 144. 193. camping. 66. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. touring. 84. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 96-97. camping. 143 Rachel. 83-84. skiing. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 176 rodeos. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 143. 9-10. 180 Pioneer territory. 77-78. camping. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 98. see climbing springfish. biking. 117. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. touring. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 165-201 plant life. 145-146 prostitution. 78. 169 Pyramid Lake. 186-187. 146-147. 12. auto.” 4 silver. 78. biking. Las Vegas territory. 181. 197 rafting. 26-27. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. fishing. 114-115 theater. Benjamin “Bugsy. touring. climbing and hiking. 85. 193. fishing. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 163-164. 98. 91. hiking. 104. 77. fishing. RenoTahoe area. 146. 74 races. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 90 soaring. skiing. 156. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 185-186. Pioneer territory. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 88 Shermantown. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Las Vegas area. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 87. 179 Searchlight. 142. accommodations. 195. touring. 113. hiking. 13 Price Lakes. 93-94. restaurants. 163. motorcycle. 54. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs.Index Pioche: accommodations. 150-151. fishing. fishing. 36. see events price codes. 17. 115. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 170 rivers. Reno-Tahoe area. 123-125. 89-91 skydiving. transportation. snow sports outfitters. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. restaurants. 52 pupfish. 82. 138 rock climbing. 92-93. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 144. see climbing rock hunting. 54. 197. bike. see mines and mining skiing. 190. 90 sport climbing. special events. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 9 Sand Mountain. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 134. 180. 154. biking. restaurants. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 106 Spooner Lake. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 76. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 76. 179. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. camping. 112. 200 temperature chart. 17. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. Pony Express territory. 79-80. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 76. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 197-199. 106 Siegel. hiking and climbing. 79. water sports. 88. 187. 65 Pony Express territory. 173 Index . 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 59-61. 17. horse. 89. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 49-50. camping. 144. 129-130. 17. see skiing snowmobiling. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 167. 198. 42. hiking. accommodations. 80 pronghorn antelope. 53-54. 9697. 84-85 swimming. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. hiking. 94 special events. see events Round House Art Gallery. 109 Shoshone people. outfitters. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 163. 153 Sparks. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing.
117. 164. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. Echo Canyon State Park. 39 vineyards. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. Reno-Tahoe territory. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. Wilson Canyon. events. outfitters. 192. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 32. 35. restaurants. 41. 157. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 80-81. fishing. restaurants. 177. events. outfitters.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 168-169. Santa Rosa Mountains. 155. 183-184. 98. 163-164. 83. 150. 45. 61. 152-155. events. 30-31. 143. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 77-78. 29. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. climbing and hiking. 44-48. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 142 Wendover: accommodations. camping. hiking. 68. 25 Topaz Lake. 172. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. 168 zoos. Pioneer territory. 151 Wovoka. Earth Connections. Cleve Creek Campground. 149. 38. 110. 167. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 144. 139-140 Treasure City. 73. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. touring. 200-201. touring. Arc Dome Wilderness. 71-74 Virgin River. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 134 Twain. 75. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. see plant life tufas. 20. 176 Yerington: accommodations. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 31. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 76. hiking outfitters. Pioneer territory. 102. 95. 174 walking. 55. 144. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 146. 155 . 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. camping. 155. 111. hiking. 147-148. touring. 159. 106 trains. 34-35. 135-137. 145-146. 85. 112. 185. buses. Goshute Mountains. 104. Las Vegas territory. 117 Toquima Cave. 97. 62. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. outfitters. fishing. 174. restaurants. Oxbow Nature Study Area. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. camping. 179. Lake Mead. see transportation transportation: airports. 139. 162. rental cars. 153-154. 160-161. touring. 199. 176. touring. wildlife and bird watching. Mark. 31. 127. 190-193. 193 Walker Lake. 26-27. 89. Amtrak. 188-189. camping. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 71. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 109 trees. 156-157. 29-30. water sports. 178. 193. restaurants. Walker Lake. Winnemucca. 163. 33. special events. 159-160. 182-183. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. 79-80. Hemenway Park. 62. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 80. 119-120. 66. 187. camping. hiking. 191 UFOs. 86 Wells: accommodations. camping. 191-192. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 127. Jack’s Valley Road. 196. 67. touring. 176 wineries. High Rock Canyon. Pony Express territory. 62. Table Mountain Wilderness. Ruby Mountains. 143. hiking outfitters. horseback riding. restaurants. 150. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Ruby Marsh. 151 Wilson Canyon.
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