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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
500 and 10. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. Florida. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. giant sloths.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. however. as the top tourism destination in the US. that’s good news. you can have the whole wild. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. In fact. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. Among the 50 states.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. pausing on . the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. half-pound hot dogs. In fact. horses. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. For anyone who loves the outdoors. According to author John Hart. you’ll know better. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. bison.” and for good reason. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. which covers most of Nevada. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. About 27 million of them. These mammoths.
Many prime archeological sites. . These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. His party wintered in California. established trade routes. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. Exactly 50 years later. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. In the south. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. including southern Nevada. fish hooks. followed in Garces’ footsteps. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. points. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. hand tools. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. however. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. the first European entered Nevada. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. By about 500 AD. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. In the 12th century. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. Jedediah Smith. The Northern Paiutes. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. In 1776. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. wetlands and springs. shells.
The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. DC. which helped open the gateway to the West. Introduction . In 1833. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. In 1859. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. In 1845.History n 3 In the north. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. In 1843 and ’44. Eight years later the first wagon train. covering most of Utah and Nevada. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. but abandoned it two years later. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. but the Utah Territory government. then returned east along the route the next year. was dispatched to map the area. dominated by the church. swelling the population well into five figures. The Comstock Lode. as it came to be called. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. who would later become a war hero. By 1857. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. Nevada became a state on Halloween. In 1830. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. and headed over the Sierras. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. John C. In 1849. Fremont. encountering Pyramid Lake. the church established the State of Deseret. 1864. the Mormons were the first white residents. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. with Brigham Young as governor. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). continued to oversee Nevada. and. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. camping at Las Vegas. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north.
Siegel’s vision. Howard Hughes sud- . but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention.000 people in 1960. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. opened in 1950. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. was of a classy. Then in 1966. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. son of Winnemucca. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. bringing town sites. the mother of all lodes. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. began making money and the boom was on. In 1873. Ironically. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. chief of the Northern Paiutes. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. In 1860. Streets were laid out. the Big Bonanza. Reno and the surrounding areas. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. signed a treaty with the federal government. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. was struck in Virginia City. In 1855. Meanwhile. then picked up again in the early 1900s. upscale Vegas. later known as the Nevada Test Site. killed two-thirds of them. commerce and industry. violence escalated. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. Winnemucca. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. however. then underground tests for 30 more. the first true hotel-casino. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. the Flamingo soon reopened. particularly in southern Nevada. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. In the teens and ’20s. Carson City.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. Warriors under Numaga. In 1874. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. but was ambushed. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized.
find enough water. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. To many. But the explosion has not been without fallout. miners. trappers. Winnemucca. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. Mom and their 2. DC. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. today there are master-planned communities. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. moving to the region in record numbers. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. however. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. places like Elko. are reaping the windfall. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. By 1970. . The entire West will be watching what transpires. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. How much is too much. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. and Americans have become moths to the flame. a land dominated by a mobile population. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. Fallon and Mesquite. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. This time.
” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. reservoirs and other watery bodies. Get the idea? After all. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. In fact. Near Las Vegas. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. The notion of Nevada as a flat.000 feet in the space of a few miles. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. In the north. 13. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. down a range. Yes. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. Wheeler Peak. Depending on who’s counting.063 feet. Here. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada.000 feet to nearly 12. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. The roof of Nevada is 13. then disappear into their respective “sinks. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. hills and uplands. On the other side of the state. Named by explorer John C. lakes. across a sagebrush-covered basin. gurgle through the northern part of the state. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. dry. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. towers over Great Basin National Park. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. The Colorado River . Nevada even has its own 10. the Carson and the Humboldt.839foot Matterhorn.000 feet. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. down another range. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. Fremont in 1844. then up another range. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. with nine ranges topping 11. and so on.
But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. are the only reliable. including Las Vegas and Laughlin.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. In 1989. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery.000 acres. a great inland sea that 50. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. most notably Lake Tahoe. For the greens. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise.000-acre Great Basin National Park. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. Lower and drier. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list.000 years ago covered 8. the southeastern corner of Nevada. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. the largest alpine lake in North America. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. establishing 77. it’s an uphill climb all the way.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. in the remote north near Jarbidge.500 square miles of western Nevada. natural sources of running water. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. In the 1970s. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. only 65. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno.
the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify.000 feet. Death Valley. horsebrush and shadescale. Still. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. At elevations above 6.000 feet above sea level.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them.000 and 8. is generally found throughout the state between 5. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. with its tiny. Apart from aspens. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. The recommendations have been under review for years. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. such as rabbitbrush. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. The squat Utah juniper. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. the soil supports . 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). greasewood. 14 national recreation areas. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges.
Black bears. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. Above the desert floor. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. along with alder. hallucinogenic sacred datura. which make up just 1% of the land.000 feet. the official state grass. In the mountains. creosote bush has an oily. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. the mountain lion. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. ponderosa pine. willow and dogwood.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. The Joshua tree. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. prickly pear. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. or jimson weed. bristlecone pine.000 years. lodgepole pine. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. up to 5. which is actually a type of yucca. The rare. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. The king of Great Basin vegetation. hedgehog and barrel. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. At the other extreme. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. blooms by night here. however. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. Washoe pine. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. western white pine.
skunk. weasel. greater roadrunner. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. Meanwhile. also live in the Mojave. The desert bighorn sheep. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. the black widow and brown recluse. Snakes include several types of rattlers. Ironically. with Lahontan cutthroat. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. brown. while mule deer are abundant. help comes from hunters. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. Blacktail jackrabbits. redtailed hawk. Gambel’s quail. In the air over the desert. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. beaver. pika. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. fox. chuckwalla. seen on Nevada’s license plates. Trout are the favorite of anglers. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. coyote. badger. brook. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. America’s two poisonous spiders. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. kangaroo rats. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. golden and Dolly Varden . who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. burrowing owl and canyon wren. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. Other common flyers include the golden eagle.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. rainbow. prairie falcon.
on land. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. A section on Touring follows. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. on snow and in the air. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. Cowboy Country. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. culture and most attractive features. Along with detailed information on where to go. broken down by specific locales. such as visitors bureaus.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. on water. Reno-Tahoe Territory. covering its history. This section also includes sources for expert information. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. like almost every other Nevada visitor.
12 n Introduction ing chart. . . $50 to $100 $$$ . Trails may be gone. . Finally. . . . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. Up to $50 per day $$ . . . . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. forethought and patience. . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . . . . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . . . Hiking. . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . Backpacking. . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . . . . . . .
occasionally using hands Class 4 .Adventures n 13 Finally. As this guide goes to press. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. For Class 5 routes.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 . it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. Class 2 . there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. known as the Yosemite Decimal System. so help is usually a long way away. the most popular among serious rock climbers.Boulder hopping. Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.14 (and sometimes beyond).0 to . but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. using the hands. the lower numbers (.0 to . The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . ranging from . .Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move.Easy hiking.Climbing.
As with all outdoor activities. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. Be aware of conditions. not hard-and-fast rules. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. By their nature. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. taking into account personal experience. then amended by subsequent climbers. n n n n n .14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. In the arid country of Nevada. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. legend. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. Always take fresh water with you. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. Beyond that. dehydration and lightning. Assistance can take hours or days. Pack spare everything – food. clothing. use common sense before you get into trouble. Storms are more common in the afternoon. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Don’t travel alone. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. If the plan changes.10. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. climbers enter the realm of myth. Begin hiking early in the day. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. climbing partners. Give them descriptions of yourself. until all holds disappear at . Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances.
Carry an inflated spare tire or two. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. . racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. tools. jack. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. four-wheel-drive vehicle. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. extra gas. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. water and fluids. Arizona. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. but a powerful. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. spare belts. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. preferably one with a large gas tank. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. Not one of those trendy. high-clearance job. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted.
The rest of Nevada. Do not ration water. Mountain biking in Nevada. n If you find a traveled road. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. Phoenix. For more information on desert survival. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. minimize talking and eating. PO Box 39340. n If water is in limited supply. leave a note telling searchers who you are. drink it as needed. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. stay on it. in wilderness areas). Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. of course.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. however. n If you have water. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. contact DARES. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. AZ. 85096. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. stay put. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. is more popular than ever. when you left and where you are headed. . n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. left out of popular literature. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air.
the gem of the Sierras. Meanwhile. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Skydiving. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . and gigantic Lake Mead. At these higher elevations. but take extra care. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. there are all types of sky-high adventures. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. Soaring Where there is Vegas. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. there are tourists. And where there are tourists. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. Ballooning. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Many streams. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Fishing. lakes and reservoirs.
get out of lowlying areas. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. Leave the high altitudes as well. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. Flashfloods are the predictable result. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. but despite the obvious danger. These storms are known to appear with little warning. on the Colorado River. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. For those who like to watch. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. throwing rain. temperatures above 110° are common. . TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. Laughlin. although they can occur at any time of year. Summer and early fall can be blistering. If thunderstorms threaten. In the Great Basin. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994.
Reno. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. 1300 South Curry Street. www. NV 89703. 84401. In southern Nevada. % 801-625-5182. % 800-NEVADA-8. Ogden. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. see the listings that accompany each chapter. . rainy and occasionally snowy. 1263 South Stewart Street. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. US Forest Service. Nevada Division of Wildlife. Great Basin National Park. In the north. NV 89520. 1100 Valley Road. In the mountains. Nevada Department of Transportation. NV 89502. NV 89311. too. NV 89710.com. windy. % 702-688-1500. % 702-687-4219. Carson City. For information on specific locales. UT. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. Carson City. Capitol Complex. Baker. Nevada Division of State Parks.travelnevada. NV 89712. % 702-785-6500. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. Reno. Bureau of Land Management. basin winters can be chilly. 850 Harvard Way. Carson City. % 702234-7331. Intermountain Region. Nevada Commission on Tourism.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. % 702-687-4384. 324 25th Street.
the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. closer. in plain view of the casinos. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. . and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. lounge shows – and recently. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. try hiking to an 11. cheap food. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. both prehistoric and otherwise. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes.000-year-old petroglyphs. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. Inside the city limits.000-foot peak. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
Showmanship. 1 PM to 5 PM. % 702-895-3893. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. Dedicated to Mr. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. 9 AM to 9 PM. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. Just off the glittering Strip. Ham Concert Hall. $4. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . 10 AM to 5 PM. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. Sunday. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. is the Liberace Museum. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. who made his Sin City debut at age 23.95 for adults. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. % 702-363-1921. Seasonal streams. but no less extravagant. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. Yes. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. For more information on the Nevada Symphony.50 for seniors. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. 8 AM to 5 PM.95 for seniors and students. % 702-895-3011. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. call % 702-895-3801. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. The museum is open Monday through Friday. The tax-deductible admission is $6. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. % 702-798-5595. $3. % 702-895-3381. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. giant. features work by students. faculty and invited artists. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. Admission is $4. Southeast of the Strip. actual cosmopolitan. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks.95 for adults.
Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. The admission is $5 per vehicle. Today there is a restaurant. (See below. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . saloon. under Adventures on Foot. have been unearthed here. % 702-875-4141. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. 8 AM to sunset. petting zoo. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. later during summer months. 8 AM to 11 PM. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. 8 AM to 5 PM. % 702-875-4191. Charleston.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. The park is open daily. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. With structures dating back to 1864. The restaurant and bar are open daily. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. wife of a German munitions tycoon. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. one-way loop drive is early morning. the road to Mt. % 702-486-5413. 5 PM in the winter. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. Back on US 95. trail rides and a “real” Western town. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. Admission is $4. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. 7 AM to dusk. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). The park is open daily. The park is open daily. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year.) The best time to take the 13-mile.
Bighorn sheep.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. and its 1. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning.) Pitch a tent. (See below. % 702-646-3401. % 702-872-5408.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. Charleston Lodge. see below under On Snow. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. completing the Mt.918 feet.) . % 702385-2SKI. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. (See below. The 1. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. % 702-872-5500. under Adventures and Camping. In the winter. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. Nevada’s state animal. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. under On Wheels. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. the Mt. elevation 11. (See below. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. (See below. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt.000 vertical feet of runs. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. under Camping. Charleston Hotel. % 702-872-7098. Charleston Loop. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest.) After the hike. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. 17-mile. under On Foot. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. At the northern edge of the reservation. desolate valley. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. 2 Kyle Canyon Road.
% 800-241-6522 USAir.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines.
% 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-331-1212 Budget.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car.
About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. . The museum is open daily. Call % 800USA-RAIL. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. $1 for seniors and children under 16. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. Admission is $1. NV 89109. 711 East Desert Inn Road. % 702-735-1616. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. Did it work? Judge for yourself. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. stopping downtown.50 for adults. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. On the north side of Boulder City. NV 89109. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. 444 Hotel Plaza. % 702-455-7955. 3150 Paradise Road. % 702-294-1888. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. % 800-332-5333.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. Gray Line Tours. 1830 South Boulder Highway.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson.
% 702-293-2034. Hoover Dam took 5. 100 Nevada Highway. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. boating and diving. Phoenix and Los Angeles. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. Children under 10 are free. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. 660 thick at the base. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. % 702-565-8591. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. and 45 feet thick at the top. swimming. (See On Water below.) Be sure to heed the . The cost is $5 for adults. for information on camping. % 702-293-8907. Las Vegans. 89005. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. Hoover also created Lake Mead. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. $2. All of 726 feet high. 89105. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. 500 South Boulder Highway. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. head back toward Boulder City. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. fishing.
In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. thank you. Back on Nevada 167. explain the geology and forces of erosion. Beyond here. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. nearly five miles off the highway. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). a public swimming and boating area. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. The displays in the visitor center. . Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. Go straight to reach Henderson. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. From the visitor center. % 702-293-6180. Just beyond the bay. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. which rests on the Virgin River. % 702-397-2088.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country.
% 520-754-3399.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. Arizona. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. % 800-46-4584 . Admission is a $1 donation. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. with motel. constructed his Riverside Casino. East of Searchlight 14 miles. % 520-754-4606. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. under Adventures. relives those days. bar and bait shop. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. Saturday. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. 355 Highway 95.000 visitors a month. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. % 702-297-1464. % 702-297-1682. South of here is camping. % 520-754-3272. a campground and marina. 9 AM to 5 PM. 9 AM to 1 PM. in Bullhead City. The museum is open Monday through Friday. 125°.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. campground and fishing and swimming spots. on Lake Mojave. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. % 520-754-3628. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. Nevada’s record-high temperature. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. see below. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. Don Laughlin started here with a motel.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. Named for a brand of matches. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. (For details on all three. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. the town was a gold.
Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. % 702-798-6405. as many as 6. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. May is the busiest month. In Laughlin. Special Events February In February. % 800-736-6247 United Express. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 310-448-1822.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. % 800-227-5254. % 702-876-3380. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. % 800-227-5245. 1555 South Casino Drive.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. host- .
floats into Laughlin. takes place in Vegas. to town. Another balloon festival. % 702-4541212. also takes place in October. Later in the month. % 702-457-5775. % 702-631-7000. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. . and the National Finals Rodeo. % 702-386-3926. % 702-293-4857. % 702-870-1221. % 702-457-2797.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. % 702-2939256. blows in. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-452-8066. take place in Boulder City. the Las Vegas Classic. October Art in the Park. % 702-898-6565. a three-day balloon rally. August In August. to the waters of Lake Mead. the Parade of Lights. a confluence of Southern Paiute. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. % 800-637-1006. % 702687-5777. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. % 702434-0848. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. % 702-293-1611. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. Navaho and Mojave peoples. % 702-8953900. to the campus of UNLV. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. to downtown. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. the International Black Heritage Festival. % 702-293-2034. % 800-227-5245. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree.
11d) offers more advanced routes.11+).Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. is to mountain bikers.9) has 1. Crimson Chrysalis (5. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. Stratocaster (5.11).8). With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. To the west. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. in fact. especially in winter months. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. so chalk often stays put for months. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. The Choad Warrior (5. Utah.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. Chicken Eruptus (5. Graveyard Waltz (5. so take extra precautions when adventuring here.12a). is only 35 minutes from the Strip. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. Other routes in- . that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. At the end of a 90-minute approach. At nearby Willow Springs.11b). the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5.11). Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many.11).200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels.9). Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. Red Rock attracts free climbers. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. Sheep Trail (5. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing.
an easy six-mile round-trip. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. page 41. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area.000 feet. to savor the 300-mile views. toward a ridge at 11. ending at a small dam and the spring.10 or 5. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs.8) and Eagle Dance (5. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. At the aforementioned fork.6). The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. About seven miles from the visitor center. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. See Outfitters. elevation 11. gaining 3. The South Loop Trail. published by the American Alpine Club.918 feet.000 feet in four miles. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. The 3. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road.12). consult the Bible of local climbers. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. & For more information. The trail switchbacks time and again. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. Rainbow Buttress (5. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. 17 miles round-trip. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. Chockstone Press. Following the fork. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail.000 feet. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. .
TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. Beginning on a dirt road. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. .500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. At lower elevations.000 feet above the desert. covering two miles and gaining 1. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. Never take these altitudes lightly. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. To the northwest. the trail climbs 1. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. For trail information and weather and safety updates.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards.4 miles. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. gaining 1. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. thunderstorms and snow. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes.000 feet to a saddle. Mountain T Ranch. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon.000 feet into the northeastern sky. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. contact the US Forest Service.
89180. and park at the end of the road. Las Vegas. Stay below the northern peaks. go 6. Falcon Press Publishing. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. % 702-254-5604. % 702-223-2176. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. turn right. Sports & Adventure Tours. 89124. % 702-596-2953. . Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. heading for the northernmost outcropping. PO Box 80875. 89137. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. outlines the easiest route. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. Las Vegas.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. Las Vegas 89117. % 702-364-8687. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. Suite 4.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. Climb northward up the slope. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. then go northwest to another plateau. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. HCR 33. Rocky Trails. ascending northwest. % 888-86ROCKY. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Just south of this outcrop. PO Box 371324. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. PO Box 1.2 miles.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. % 702-434-3388. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. climb a gully to reach a ridge. which is marked by a post. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. Bruce Grubbs.
maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. % 702-798-6565. % 702-252-7114. At mile post 17. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . % 702-649-6819. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. Silver State Old West Tours. % 702-383-0838. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas.6 mile to a dirt road. Las Vegas. PO Box 19210. % 702-2567433. Cowboy Trail Rides. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. 4065 East Patrick Lane. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. Armed . 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. Wagons West. % 702362-7177. however. Peak Sports. % 702-875-1978. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-254-1143. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. can arrange a covered wagon trip. % 702-458-8870. Desert Outfitting. % 702387-2457.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. 89132. Hahn’s World of Surplus. Desert Rock Sports. 617 Hoover Avenue.
Turn right. Turn right. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. After beginning another climb. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. make a quick right and head downhill. Take this until you reach a double track. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. NV 89126. zoom downhill to the fork. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. PO Box 26589. scanning for a cairn on the left. . heading uphill. 4765 Vegas Drive. At the road. Las Vegas. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. go to the next intersection. flying downhill and then up to another road. and pump uphill. % 702-647-5000. before heading out. contact the Bureau of Land Management. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. Go left here. For a more challenging excursion. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. turn right. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. Head downhill. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. A double track soon appears on the right. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. turn left to another intersection and turn right. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). a six-mile loop. For a tamer road trip. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road.
16 Cottonwood Drive. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. R&R Cycling. Escape the City Streets. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. % 702-596-2953. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-8978287. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. Downhill Bicycle Tours. Ski Chalet. the byway forks. % 702-646-3401. % 702-252-8077. % 702-451-9586. % 702-876-8687. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. % 702-642-2453. Turn left to return to US 15.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. Las Vegas Bikes USA. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. 7934 Cadenza Lane. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. At about the 10-mile mark. . rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor.
Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. % 888-REELRIO. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. . a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. is on the premises. % 702-796-9355. an avid angler for more than 50 years. Suite B. 713 East Ogden Street. For details. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. Las Vegas. of all places. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. crystal-clear hotel pool. % 702-454-5555. Old West Territory Tours. It begins. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. % 702-380-6969. Rebel Adventure Tours. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. 8 AM to 11 AM. maps and more information on backcountry byways. 3700 Flamingo Road. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. 4765 West Vegas Drive. 2810 South Highland Drive. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. 89101. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. % 702-646-8800.
water skiing. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. Boulder Beach. meals and overnight lodging for $449. .to three-days notice is required. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. largemouth bass and trout. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. and two. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. The expert staff is available seven days a week. Forever Resorts. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. flows into Lake Mead. For details. Off Nevada 167. % 800-2555561. jet skiing. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas.) Swimming. offering professional advice. % 800-34-SCUBA. instruction and gear. about three miles across at its widest point.500-acre ranch in Utah. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. under Boating Outfitters. powerboats and cruisers. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. Thomas. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). rents houseboats. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. (See below. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). peregrine falcons and even flamingos.
In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. 322 Lake Shore Road. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. % 702-252-7114. offers trips from January through November. 89006. Las Vegas. Return transportation is provided by bus. Lake Mead Cruises. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. 89006. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. % 702-754-3245. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. % 702-293-6180. 89124. . where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. HCR 30. PO Box 62465. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. Lake Mojave Farther south. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. % 702-2931190. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. PO Box 100. is the local fishing and boating hub. % 702-565-8958. Calville Bay Resort. % 800-696-RAFT. The cost is about $65 per person. particularly near cliffs. PO Box 61235. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. Near Laughlin. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. Las Vegas. 89102.
% 702-437-9283. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. Fiesta Queen Cruises. Overton. % 702-452-8299. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702565-0696. 89040. % 800-228-9825. Clearwater Flyfishing. 89029. Sunset Bait & Tackle. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. % 702-459-2080. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 520-758-6242. PO Box 29279. 1450 Newberry Drive. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. Overton Beach Marina. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. Laughlin River Tours. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. 4290 Boulder Highway. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702297-1464. % 702-5659111. . Overton. Laughlin. 89028. Tom’s Water Skiing. % 702-564-5660. PO Box 29279. AZ. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. 89040. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. % 702-433-3263. Bullhead City. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. % 702-388-1022. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. % 702-3944000.
. ext. % 702-871-1399. 3800. The company claims more than 500. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. Henderson Bill Spellman. noon to 9 PM. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. Hackett Bungy.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. 1500 Palomino Drive.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. citing growing noise problems. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. Karen Jones. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. With commercial balloon tours. Jim Goff. % 702-565-8396. 68 Mallory Road. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. % 702-5657583. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. % 702-564-1558. 161 East Rancho Drive. HB Fishing Guide Service. A jump is $59. Saturday until midnight.J. Even more memorable. complete with guided ground tours and meals. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. Arizona and Zion. however. 810 Circus Circus Drive. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. Utah. % 702-385-4321. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. % 702-451-4004. % 702-434-0848.
Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. King Airelines. Scenic Airlines. % 800-634-6377.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. Jean. 89109. 241 East Reno Avenue. % 702-877-1010. Boulder City. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. % 800-535-4448. 806 Buchanan Street. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. % 800-446-4584. Jean Airport. % 800-216-8330. 806 Buchanan Street. #115-200. D&R Balloons. % 702-221-9199. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines.com. Set at a base elevation of 8.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. 200 Convention Center Drive. Skydive Las Vegas. Las Vegas. % 800-359-8727. % 702-385-2SKI. NV 89019. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. PO Box 19629. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. Web site www. 89005. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. Heli USA. Las Vegas. % 702-736-0013. Air Vegas Airlines. 3275 Rosanna Street. % 800-634-6851. 2705 Airport Drive. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. NV 89117. % 702-293-1860. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. Sundance Helicopters. Eagle Canyon Airlines. Las Vegas Airlines. % 800-255-7474. % 800-8-SKYDIV.ultimateballoonadven.
000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. it seems. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. are booked solid on weekends.000 techies to Sin City. 18 East Fremont Street. 600 East Fremont Street. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. After all. % 702-646-0008.000-room MGM Grand. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. $-$$$. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. The place was once part-owned by in- . Above all. But somehow. % 800-272-7426.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. HO TE L Many hotels. For more serious snow. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. 2395 North Rancho Road. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. even behemoths like the 5. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. All they do is take up space. over 100. if possible. % 702-385-1664. % 702-385-5200. $-$$. luring 200. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and.000 visitors. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit.
3000 Paradise Road. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. % 702-791-7171. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. Across the street is the green giant. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$. 1 Main Street. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. South of here. $$$-$$$$. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. who built the first casino resort. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. New York. % 702-3821600. is a crowd-pleaser.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. % 702-731-7110. New York. however. the young upstarts. $$-$$$$. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. Next door is the Island’s big sister. $-$$. The faux volcano. 129 East Fremont Street. $$-$$$$. % 702-385-7111. Monte Carlo. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. % 702-732-5111. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). % 702-740-NYNY. $-$$. $$-$$$$. % 702-740-NYNY. Even by Vegas standards. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. and New York. New York is out there. % 702-386-2110. the Flamingo. way out there. 128 East Fremont Street. across from the Fashion Show Mall. The Golden Nugget. % 702-385-4011. The Mirage. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. Down the street. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. The Four Queens. has 1. dominate the Strip. $$$$$. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir.037 rooms. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. the MGM Grand. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. $$-$$$$. The movie Rainman was shot here. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. % 702-894-7111. Caesars Palace. 202 East Fremont Street. $$-$$$$. If staring at wealth is your thing. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South.
In the Spring Mountains.500 rooms. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. too. $-$$$. contrary to popular belief. but don’t count on that for long.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. % 702-872-5500. contact the Chamber of Commerce. % 702-875-4400. Charleston Hotel. % 702-872-5408.000 visitors a month and climbing. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. $-$$. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. while Bellagio will boast 3. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. positively sedate with its 5.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. three Motel 6s. % 702-735-1616. set at 7. At this book goes to press. which eliminates Reno. the Mt. has 2. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. On the outskirts of Vegas. $$-$$$$.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. % 800-634-3988. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. Bonnie Springs Motel. % 702-262-4555. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. Charleston Resort.000. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. .” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. TIP Laughlin For the most part.
401 South 6th Street. 2121 South Casino Drive. serves upscale Italian fare. % 702-3807711. % 702-298-4600. Andre’s. while the Golden Nugget. % 702-298-2535. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. % 702-733-3111. 2300 South Casino Drive. Emeril’s. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. Downtown at the Four Queens. and Gatsby’s. % 702-298-4000. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. % 702-298-2214. $-$$$. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. $-$$$. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. Nearby. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. classy Hugo’s Cellar. % 702-891-7374. At the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-298-2453. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. 3700 West Flamingo Road. 2900 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-5111. % 702-298-4200. $-$$. and Harrah’s. Hamada. An excellent buffet. 2100 South Casino Drive. Eurasian mélange. % 702-298-7111. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. both at the MGM Grand. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. $-$$$. the Flamingo Hilton. To really dine UPtown. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. Café Michelle. % 702-732-5111. 1900 South Casino Drive. 1350 East Flamingo Road. The Edgewater. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. On the Strip. has 1. Off the main drags. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. % 702-385-4011. The Ramada Express. $-$$. however. opened in 1990. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . % 702-385-5016.500 rooms. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. in the Las Vegas Hilton. 1650 Casino Drive. $-$$.000 rooms. and very expensive. sports a railroad theme. offers 2. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. 2000 South Casino Drive. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. After a few meals at most of these troughs. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. while the Colorado Belle. $$$$. % 702-252-7777. % 702735-8686. 202 Fremont Street. Andiamo.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. % 702-891-7337.
000 and 8. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. as the name implies. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. is the most popular Chinese place in town. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. % 702-384-4470. is the oldest restaurant in the city. in the shadow of Mt. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. serves hip. For satisfying American favorites. Chicken is the house specialty. The Green Shack. The elevation here ranges between 7. call % 702-873-8800. % 702-298-2242. 308 West Sahara Avenue. 2504 East Fremont. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. % 702-382-1644. % 702-693-5000. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. % 702-363-1921. Fong’s. seven days a week. % 702-383-0007. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. 3900 Paradise Road. Suite Z. so be prepared for extreme weather. Chin’s. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. All five campgrounds have piped water. % 702-2984600. having opened in 1932. although the Lodge. which. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day.400 feet. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. For a Latin taste. For information. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. Kyle Canyon. Charleston. % 702733-8899. % 702-794-0700. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. Near the end of Nevada 157.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. while moderately pricey. serves fine steaks and seafood. Phillip’s Supper House. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. . 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 4455 Paradise Road. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. % 702-873-5222.
For information. For information on all five locations. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. there’s Boulder Beach. % 702-397-2088. To the east of Vegas. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. call % 702-646-3401. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. north of town on Lake Mojave. Moving north from Boulder City. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. In Valley of Fire State Park. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. % 520-754-3272. Las Vegas Territory . % 520-7544606. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. Across the river from the Strip. Calville Bay has 80 sites.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. On the north shore. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. On the Virgin River to the north. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites.
the city of Reno is the . With a surface elevation of more than 7.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. just east of the California-Nevada border.000 feet. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. In the winter. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. Las Vegas. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. and for good reason. Of course. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. Heavenly and Mt. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. At the heart of this region. Rose resorts. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. the largest alpine lake in North America.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. Reno. The Truckee River.
Farther east of Carson City. Washoe Lake State Park. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. Fort Churchill. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. About 30 miles north of Reno. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. meanwhile. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. an ancient. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. Just south of Carson City. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. which meanders – sometimes wet. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. North of Pyramid Lake. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. where everyone expects Ben. on the shores of Washoe Lake. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. Farther south. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. Pyramid Lake. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. 8. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. The place dates back to 1851. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. Today this mirage-come-true. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. The Carson River.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. . complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. are walks back in time. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful.
A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. or at least slow. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. From here. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. No. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. and in 1859 C.W. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. the city continues to grow rapidly. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. From Carson City. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. North Virginia Street. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. In 1863. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. H. % 800-FOR-RENO. In 1852. Like Vegas. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . which hosts special events in warmer months. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. From Reno. for a schedule. there isn’t a glass pyramid. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail.H.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City.
but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. From a historical point of view. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. this is it. .
1650 North Virginia Street. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. About 10 minutes north of the university. The staff welcomes visitors daily. but call first for hours. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. is a well-known. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. And the Keck Minerals Museum. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. 1265 Deerlodge Road. has been at that location since 1946. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. including black bears and kit foxes. % 702-333-9300. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. Animal Ark Nature Center. On the northern outskirts of the city. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. On the north side of the city. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. % 702-688-1190. Reno-Tahoe Territory . May Museum and Arboretum. On the suburban south side of Reno. % 702784-4812. % 702-334-2600. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. When arms get tired. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. (See below under On Foot. houses one of the world’s best collections. boasts three treasures. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. April through October.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. % 702-7855961. 300 North Center Street. Great Basin Adventure. Fleischmann Planetarium. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. 1502 North Washington Street. The Nevada Historical Society. % 702-788-3773. is also located here. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. % 702-969-3111. turn right. the National Automobile Museum.) The Wilbur D. a nifty historical theme park. the campus of the University of Nevada. % 702-784-4528. To get there. 10 South Lake Street. houses a theater and telescope.
Budget. Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-426-7000. % 800-435-9792. Canadian Airlines. Northwest Airlines. % 800-235-9292. % 800-231-2222. K-T Services. United Airlines. % 800-331-1212. % 800-218-8777. % 800-527-0700. % 702-328-6400. % 800-325-8007. % 800-221-1212. Lloyd’s International. . % 800-221-2000. % 800-736-6247. Dollar. Enterprise. % 800-225-2525. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. Greyhound Lines. % 800-367-2277. Reno Air. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. Thrifty. Avis. % 800-CAR-RENT. No Stress Express. Delta Air Lines. If you don’t have a car. National. % 800-654-7037. % 800-800-4000. % 800-654-3131. % 800-241-6522. TWA. TriStar Airlines. % 800-359-2472. % 800-453-9417. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Southwest Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 702-882-3375. Alaska Airlines. America West Airlines. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. Hertz.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers.
showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. control erosion and acquire open land.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. NV 89502. rock. NV 89505.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. 4590 South Virginia Street. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. % 702-686-3030. Reno. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. Reno. provides an interesting mix of adventures. year-round outdoor playgrounds. Fortunately. local. trees and sky. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. In reality. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. All told. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. In 1861. respectively. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. restore forest and watersheds. 405 Marsh Avenue. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. % 702-329-2936. a marvelous intermingling of water. but the future of the Basin itself. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. At press time. the waters are now finding friends in high places. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . in his journal Roughing It. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. is a study in contrast. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. 98 Colony Road. % 800-FOR-RENO.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe.50 for kids. % 702-849-2511. with its full slate of running water. The park. stands out amid the pines. is well-known to snorkelers. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. But in between them. % 702-831-0691. The north end of the beach. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. Admission is $8. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. is a welcome respite. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. Three miles south of Incline Village. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead.50 for adults. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. along the eastern shoreline.) Up the twisting NV 431. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. $5.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Viewed from the highway. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. % 702-831-0494. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. (See below. open May through November. at 10. After the buzz of the ranch. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. The beaches are open daily. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. called Diver’s Cove.776 feet. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. restrooms and picnic areas. under On Foot.
It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. under On Snow). This is the home port of the Dixie II. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. restaurants. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. The price for such sloth is $10. 96151. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . canoeing. horseback riding. For information. condos. % 916-583-9048.) For the unmechanized. % 800-AT-TAHOE. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. CA. a nature trail circles the lake. under Adventures and Accommodations. under On Snow. Sailing. May through November. South Lake Tahoe. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore.250 feet in five minutes. NV 89449.50 per adult. also offers excursions. (See below. Every summer. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. At Tahoe Village. (See below. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. % 702588-3000. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. % 702-588-4591. Booming in the winter (see below. offices and shops. then into the broad Washoe Valley.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. Stateline. % 702588-3508. PO Box 16299. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. PO Box 7139. $6 per child. The day-use fee is $5.
Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. (See below. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. During the wet season. the boom rolled in at full throttle. camping and hiking (see below. The original owners.” On Halloween in 1864. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. 1851. was hit a year later in Virginia City. Washoe Lake covers about 3. the mansion and all its furnishings. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. Bowers Mansion. under Adventures. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. Bowers Mansion County Park. pages 83. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. Washoe Lake. a hunt that lasted 20 years. the world’s largest silver strike. and on weekends between May and October. About 15 miles south of Reno. The park’s centerpiece. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. eventually lost their silver fortune. US 395 slides southwest. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. one mile south of Washoe City. site of Washoe Lake State Park. % 702-687-4319. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. boating. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek.000 acres. windsurfing. About 30 miles south of Reno. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. Camping. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. In November. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. 87 and 98). preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. off NV 429. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. When the Comstock Lode. % 702-849-0201. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day.
yearround. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. Open Monday through Friday.” In fact. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. 100 Stewart Street. It’s so open. % 702-687-4810. which was opened in 1886. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. % 702-884-3450. the Nevada State Library & Archives. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. The Capitol Building & Museum. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. Headquartered in nearby Minden. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. Just east of the Capitol. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. the Capitol is open daily. Admission is $3. The library contains the original state constitution. Call for schedules and pick-up points. exhibits of native fauna. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. 600 North Carson Street. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. Located in the Carson City Mint building. Unlike most Western capitals. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. 101 North Carson Street. % 702-687-5160. in fact. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. . excepting state holidays. % 702687-5030.
Admission is $2. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. train rides are extra. books and permits for the surrounding area. and Bender House (1874). the Carson City Brewing Company. % 702-687-6953. % 702-884-2226. % 702-883-1976. Charles-Muller Hotel. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. % 702-882-1808.50. The Roberts House Museum. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. The staff can provide trail maps. % 702-887-2174. The St. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. That classic journal. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. Samuel. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. 813 North Carson Street. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. The Orion Clemens House. Bliss Mansion. The building now houses a live theater. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. Admission is $4 for adults. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). On the suburban south side of Carson City. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. $2 for kids. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. Two blocks north. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. 302 South Carson Street. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. 1207 North Carson Street. The museum is filled with period furniture. 448 West King Street. The Stewart Indian Museum. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. Roughing It. was named for its original occupant. 502 North Division Street. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. 1536 South Carson Street. 2180 South Carson Street. 5366 Snyder Avenue. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. Admission is $2. % 702-826-2766. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. The office is closed Sundays.
the first permanent white settlement in the state. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. opened in 1863. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. Before the school closed in 1980. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. weight room and tennis courts year-round. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. where he is buried.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. now long gone. % 702-782-8155. Guests can enjoy the water. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. Carson City. Across the street. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. % 702-687-7410. Up the street. lies Genoa. saunas. As of presstime. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. May through October. 3. The roots go back to 1851. The place saw Nevada’s first house. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station.000 students had walked its halls. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. NV 89701. California. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. to Genoa. at the foot of the Carson Range. Daily admission is $12. 2001 Foothill Road. May through October. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. 1900 South Carson Street. Walley’s. . The museum is open daily. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. first opened to tourists in 1862. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. Genoa Bar. % 702-782-4325.
which climbs up a narrow. % 702-266-3343.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. about eight miles south of Carson City. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. Their riches. Gardnerville in 1879. Just down US 395. % 702-782-3133. Beyond NV 341. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. Virginia City. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. About three miles south of Gardnerville. including Western art and portraiture. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. a 1. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. The otherwise barren hills. the highway hits Topaz Lake. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. their sweat. % 702-782-2555. of all places. valleys. boxing memorabilia. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. and their spirit built the Silver State. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. 1477 Highway 395. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. Finally. 1440 Highway 395.200acre beauty set at 5. Minden was founded in 1904. resting precariously . and their ghosts still walk this landscape. circus items. Housed in the 1915 high school building. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. Leaving Carson City. In Gardnerville. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. where it intersects with NV 341.
% 702847-0975. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. The Marshall Mint Museum.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. Admission is $3. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. underground mine tours. May through October. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. . Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. At the south end of town. Admission prices range from donations to $3.000 lived in Virginia City. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. % 702-847-0757. leave regularly. Up C Street. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. The Comstock Lode had been struck. more than 15. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. is a looming.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. Not recommended for claustrophobes. % 702-847-0777. Today.000 a ton in silver. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. The building is open daily. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. and within four years. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. Here.
the height of culture when it was built in 1885. After she was murdered in 1867. % 702-847-0525. Admission is $2. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-8470333. a room in the basement of a saloon. lives on in two buildings. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. is definitely not for the puritan. for a ride into yesterday. 3. % 702847-0275. % 702-847-0454.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. windswept plateau. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. Its extravagant interior. % 702-847-0766. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. Admission is $2. is open daily. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. including an old jukebox and player pianos. has a more eclectic collection. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. complete with ornate chandeliers. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. Finally. The Mark Twain Museum. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. The headstones and gravesites. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. The memory of Samuel Clemens. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. % 702-8470830. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. The Way It Was Museum. June through October. Open daily. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that.50. Mark Twain’s Memories. % 702-847-9394. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric.
built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. Today. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. % 702-577-2345. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. The Byway’s terminus.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. Past the intersection with NV 431. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . including Odeon Hall. wild horses. then exit at NV 445. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. % 702-847-0311. % 702-673-1150. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. appears in Palomino Valley. After another 20 miles. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. or mustangs.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. There is also a developed campground. little more than a few walls remain. After about eight miles. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. number about 30.
of course. boating and fishing are extra. the road passes Wino. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. store and museum. % 702-547-0187. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. Fremont.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. nine-mile-wide watering hole. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. according to artifacts found in local caves. site of the ranger station. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. thus christening the 27-mile-long. If losing yourself is your goal. Nearby. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. or dry lake bed. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . Another 25 miles north via paved. % 702-476-1156. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. Today. Camping. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. campground. since at least 9. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. selling permits and running fish hatcheries.000 BC. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. Tribe members administer recreation activities. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. this is the place to do it – unless. the world’s largest playa. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. continues to surround the lake. From Nixon. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. Just north of the marina. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. They will provide directions and hours of operation.182 feet) to the west. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. boat ramp. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. A reservation was formalized in 1874. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. Spreading north and east. The mandatory day-use fee is $5.
TAKE CARE In this region. spare tire. Help can be a long way away. about one mile south of NV 140. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. tow chain.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. even with one. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. and carry enough water. on 575. . The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Again. birds of prey. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. songbirds. preparedness is imperative. % 503-947-3315. A shovel. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. caution and common sense are key to traveling. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. Besides antelope.
In Virginia City. % 702-882-1802. % 702-847-7500. The Way It Was Rodeo. Carson Valley Days. with food. % 702-882-1808.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. heats up. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. a rolling custom car show. % 702-588-6211. % 702-882-1283. % 702-265-5281. Night Curves. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. Reno also . featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. Richest Rodeo in the West. % 702-782-2211. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. In Gardnerville. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. % 702-329-7469. % 800-FOR-RENO. % 702-588-9658. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. is a rip-snortin’ affair. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. bills itself as the “Wildest. % 702-353-2291. % 702-782-2444. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. In Carson City. % 702-883-1352. is held in Sparks. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-829-1955. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. In Reno. % 702-847-0311. water. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. % 702-329-3877. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. % 702-687-7410.
Street Vibrations. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. On the Black Rock Desert. % 702-826-1181. % 702-882-1565. a sort of post-modern. takes place in Carson City. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. % 702-786-5700. and the National Championship Air Races. % 702-688-5767. attracts American Indians from many Western states. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. In the skies. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-832-1606. come to Virginia City along with a parade. % 702-827-7603. % 702-329-1476. . Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 800-535-3045. The Great Italian Festival. the Nevada State Fair. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. % 702-885-6939. is held in Reno. and the Nevada Day Parade. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. deconstructionist Woodstock. the notorious Burning Man Festival. gather in Minden. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. % 702-329-7469. In Incline Village. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-782-9711. % 702-847-0311. % 702-972-6663. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. the Native American Snow Dance.
including Jello Wars (5.12a opportunities. . Overhangs present experts with 5. all 5. Farther south. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. whips around a peak. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada.11c and heavier. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. are more chilling than the mountain air. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. however. There are more than 20 routes. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon.000 feet.11a). The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. including Asylum (5. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark.11d) and Slayer (5. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. Falcon Press Publishing. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. then climbs to a saddle. At the five-mile mark. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels.11a and 5. After crossing Galena Creek. 1994. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face.14a). The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. There are 10 routes. so dress appropriately. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes.
which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. After another mile. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. Since the slide. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. % 702-847-WALK. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. % 702-6881893. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points.260 feet. This hike is certainly strenuous. . Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. climbing 3. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. The charge for adults is $12. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. including great blue herons and birds of prey. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. as are group tours. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. for children $5. NV 431. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. Hours are seasonal. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. offers a beautiful willow.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. so call first.300 feet in just six miles. The trail ends at a highway. elevation 8. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak.
Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. Yellow Hills East. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. The trail. call the BLM at % 702623-1500.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. write them at PO Box 20991. as are 7. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. is a good overnight point. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. For more information. As this is being written. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. For road conditions and closures. For more information. From here. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. OR 97441. To reach the trailhead. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. CA 94620. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. Madras. Oakland. % 916-279-6101. For travel information. Mahogany Mountain. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. Stevens Camp.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. great horned owls and other birds of prey. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. . contact the BLM.
% 702-626-6916. NV 89450. % 702-832-5231.397 feet. Denio Junction. % 702-851-1924. Incline Village. Reno. #111. terminus of the fairly flat.200 lung-burning feet. NV 89511. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. Silver State Outfitters. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. to the soaring summit at 9. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. % 702-333-6795. 490 Kietzke Lane. Sparks. Patagonia Outlet. Outdoor Adventures. PO Box 6145. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. 20 Daylily Court. The lakes. NV 89436. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. gaining 2. On the east side of the reservoir. 8550 White Fir Street. % 702-746-6878. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. Reno.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. Nevada Guide Service. A steep. 3335 Vista Boulevard. 1135 Terminal Way. Bighorn Outfitting. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. backpackers and photographers. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. jogs through alpine meadows. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. Look for the Knott Creek sign. NV 89502. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. but they might also offer their services to hikers. % 702-623-1500. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. . % 702-322-9559.
Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. offers ranch day trips. also rents horses. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. 1201 Highway 395.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. 1675 East 4th Street. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. the trail makes a high-altitude. % 702-3584824. Strictly Scuba & More. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702-831-5465.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. % 702782-7011. % 702-849-0570. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . % 702884-3453. Twin City Surplus. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. 155 East Moana Lane. Sierra Spirit Ranch. Zephyr Cove Stables. % 702-323-5630. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. Vogl Trek USA. % 702-8827779. Sporting Rage. After about three miles. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. and offers picnic rides. % 702-849-1020. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. In the highlands near Mount Rose. 4375 South Carson Street. 1941 North Carson Street. call first for availability and directions. % 702-8252855. In all four cases. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. % 702588-5664. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. % 702-885-7773. % 702-849-9651. Near Washoe Lake State Park. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. which parallels North Canyon Creek. contact Tin Cup Adventures. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. 4339 South Carson Street. Sierra Mountaineer. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour.
don’t screw it up. % 702-831-0494. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. From here. For detailed maps. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. To complete the loop. . in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 84 miles back to Gerlach. or ends. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. depending on point of view. The half-paved.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. north of Pyramid Lake. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. Put simply. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. to Vya. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. % 916-279-6101. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. Continuing northwest on NV 447. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28.
Bobo’s Ski Shop. Reno Schwinn. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. 89701. 89502. 4135 South Virginia Street. 89502. Falcon Press Publishing. 235 East Plumb Lane. south of Carson City. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. % 702827-3277. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. & According to Jeanne L.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. 1200 South Wells Avenue. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. along with Canada geese in fall. % 702826-0800. 89502. winter and spring. % 702-825-8258. % 702-3226001. 3450 Lakeside Drive. % 702-747-1413. % 702883-3210. 89502. Great Basin Bicycles. Excell Skates. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. Bicycle Warehouse. % 702786-5111. 89532. 89701. 89509. 1993. % 702-8871333. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. 1999 South Virginia Street. Bike Brothers. 500 North Carson Street. 1987 North Carson Street. For more information. . The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. also known as NV 206. call % 702-688-1500.
cutthroat and rainbows. % 702-588-3369.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. personal water craft and kayaks. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. 89450. . During spring and early summer. coyotes. 89423. % 702-8825007. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. % 702782-0867. which can take up to seven hours. Nevada. The trip. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. On the Nevada side. turkey vultures. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. Entrance fee is $3 per car. offers 1. canoes. kingfishers. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. California. 625 Fairview Drive. red-tailed hawks.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. rents powerboats. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. 1685 Highway 395 South. via NV 88 and CA 89. Contact the US Forest Service. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. six miles south of Gardnerville. 89701. PO Box 3007. Spooner Lake. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville.
If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. but in wet years. The smaller. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. For moving-water anglers. with campground and restrooms. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. There are two boat ramps. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. For the stalwart anglers. two to three miles up a steep trail. thanks to Sierra runoff. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. A better option might be Ophir Creek. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. However. For directions. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. although . are regularly stocked with rainbows. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. % 702-6874319. Idlewilde Park. planting and licensing information. only a mile west of downtown. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. and charges a launching fee. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. Washoe Lake State Park. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. % 702-688-1500. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. For more adventurous angling. catfish and trout. water levels. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. both on the eastern shore.
More than 100 years later. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. the setting here is primative. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Boats with outboards are permitted. % 702-688-1500. Nevada Angler’s Guide. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. crappie and perch. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. while rainbow. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. boasts a handful of isolated spots. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. under Outfitters. Camping is primitive. used to separate gold and silver from ore. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. a health advisory is still in effect. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. however. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. In his book. . were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. The reservoir is located on private land. Come prepared. Rainbow. There are two boat ramps on the lake. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. For more information. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. see below. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area.
% 916-541-5448. 96145. % 702-322-9559. 294 East Moana Lane. % 702-358-6113. % 702-588-4916. NV 89448. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. NV 89448. Reno. NV 89431. PO Box 815. % 916573-0753. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. intermediate and advanced. equally divided among novice. NV 89502. . head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. Zephyr Cove. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. % 702-825-2855. PO Box 10225. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Tahoe Topliners.. PO Box 6506. % 702-827-0600. Don’s Fishing Charters. Mount Rose also offers lessons. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. Reno. rentals and a shuttle bus. 155 East Moana Lane. Sparks. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. % 916-546-4444. Zephyr Cove. PO Box 1909. NV 89502.260 feet. The Gilly. CA. Stateline. Tahoe City. With a base elevation of 8. Reno Fly Shop.440 vertical feet of runs. 89502. NV 89449. 490 Kietzke Lane. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. Snowboarders are welcome.
The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. rentals. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area.000 feet above sea level. 89451. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). not to mention great views of the lake. Lessons. 1210 Ski Way. For cross-country fans. % 702-831-8361. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. Heavenly. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. Lessons.800) and the highest top elevation (10. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. Diamond Peak. skate skis. lesson. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. NV. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. day tours and amateur races. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. a new gondola and the famous tram. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. . rentals and a shuttle bus are available.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. This is a monster of a mountain. the greatest acreage (4. lesson. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. % 702-7823047. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. % 702-749-5349. rentals. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. Heavenly has 18 chairs. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. all-terrain skis. which include a pass. Incline Village. and rental. trail pass) is $34. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. with the longest vertical drop (3. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village.000 to 9. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. lessons.500 feet). six surface lifts. $8 after 3 PM). Snowboarders are welcome. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000.840 feet. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. and/or snowshoes. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177.
of- . Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. 235 East Plumb Lane.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. 89502. 89502. % 702-849-0111. South Lake Tahoe. % 702-786-2020. Excell Skates. % 702-786-7071. Mogul Mouse. Sierra Mountaineer. 321 Sky Way. 89451. % 702-8269096. % 702-3239463. Sundance Ski Company. 1200 South Wells Avenue. % 702-358-4824. 89423. % 702-329-5358. 89451. In Reno. 209 Kingsbury. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. 515 East Moana Lane. Stateline House of Ski. Serva Ski. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89502. 2615 Mill Street. 89502. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. 89502. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. Galena Ski Rentals. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. 140 Vesta Street. Snowind Sports. % 702-831-3537. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 89502. % 702-588-5935. PO Box 19215. % 702786-5111. 89502. 89502. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. CA 96151. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. % 916-544-1221. % 702782-0867.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. 89451. % 702831-3500. C&J Flight Aviation. % 702-3226001. 1685 Highway 395 South. 2500 East 2nd Street. % 702-831-2922.
a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. poolside service. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). $$$-$$$$. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. % 702-588-8571. High Country Soaring. $$$-$$$$. a dance club.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. three. % 800-635-0066. Lake Tahoe. Lake Village Vacations. % 800-648-3353. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. % 800-427-8397. of course. % 702-784-4944. 398 US 50. % 800-99-RIDGE. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. Harvey’s Resort. offers 534 rooms. $$$$$$$. $$$$. . The upscale Ridge Tahoe. % 800-6483773. eight restaurants. $$$-$$$$. Tahoe Summit Village. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. Harrah’s. the Sierras and. The Douglas County Airport.. also features condo accommodations.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. $$$-$$$$. has two. has 740 rooms. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. on this site since 1944. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley.
There is a shopping arcade downstairs. 210 North Center Street. % 702-8321234.700 rooms on 38 floors. Among the downtown locations. % 702-588-6644. which serves free continental breakfast. $$-$$$$. lawn games. Today. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. % 800- . with more than 1. % 800-731-6222. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. As in Las Vegas. The Zephyr Cove Resort. combines great views. $$. 593 North Dyer Circle. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. 407 North Virginia Street. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. a rustic feel. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. has 33 rooms. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. $$-$$$. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. % 702-831-0287. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. first-class. as well as a gym with instructor on site. Harrah’s. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. the Cal-Neva Resort. % 800-824-6391. 2 Stateline Road. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. % 800-687-8733. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. $$. 111 Country Club Drive. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. A perennial four-star winner. 24 Highway 28. % 800-624-7980. $-$$. $$$-$$$$. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west.$$-$$$$. % 800-322-7723. $$$. $$-$$$. The Haus Bavaria B&B. % 800-225-6382. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe.
the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. $$. % 800-648-5966. a heated pool and other amenities. $$-$$$. which features theme rooms.000 rooms. 2707 South Virginia Street. $$. 1901 South Virginia. 3575 South Virginia Street. Freeway convenient. Rates start at $195 per night. 310 South Carson Street.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. $$$$. $. % 800-282-2444. % 702-825-7134. $$. $$. % 800-622-1890. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. Circus Circus. Nearby. $$. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. 701 East 7th Street. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. % 702-358-1080. including a barber shop. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. welcomes bargain hunters. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. 710 West Robinson Street. $$.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. 500 North Sierra Street. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. % 702-786-4070. and Vagabond Inn. $. most notably the Days Inn. Motel 6. $$. % 800-937-1436. is a three-story. the new Peppermill. $$-$$$. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. the Eldorado. the Motel 6. boasts nearly 600 rooms. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. Charles Hotel. % 800-320-0627. % 702-882-3643. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. The St. Away from downtown. free airport shuttle and skier rates. 3131 South Virginia Street. which overlooks the state government center. The Atlantis. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. % 800-723-6500. % 800-723-6500. % 702-8821887. 1100 Nugget Avenue. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. . And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. an owner-built. has more than 1. $$. % 702-827-0255. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. two heated pools and a hair salon. It has more than 1. 345 North Virginia Street. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. convention facilities and some impressive suites. $$$. % 800-648-1177. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. has a heated pool. 600 South Carson Street. $$$.
$$. 8 South F Street. $$. 1627 US 395. two with private baths. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. $$$. 1431 Ezell Street. The Chollar Mansion. % 702-847-0111. % 702-782-5697. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. for weary wanderers. $$. 2001 Foothill Road. 2332 Main Street. 907 South Carson. and a casino. Pratt.C. #800-628-7831. $-$$. 1540 Main Street. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. % 702-782-8720. % 702-782-9711. $. $-$$. % 800-962-0732. 565 South D Street. There are 13 rooms. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. $$-$$$. with 58 rooms and live entertainment.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. some with kitchenettes. % 702-847-0521. % 702-782-7075. $$. % 702-847-9777. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. was built in the late 1800s. . 1643 US 395. 11 with private baths. 800 North Carson. has five rooms. 1435 US 395. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. and Pioneer. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. % 702-8825535. generic motels abound in Carson City. It has four rooms. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. $$$. 1979 US 395. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. % 702-557-2220. It has four rooms. including the small Genoa House Inn. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. The Crooked House. $$$. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. $$-$$$. $-$$. the inn was built in 1872 by A. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. % 702-882-3046. The motel has 40 rooms. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. is the center of the action. 180 Nixon Street. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. 300 Main Street. % 800-321-6983. % 702-782-7644. $-$$. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel.
Ichiban. including a seafood and oyster bar. % 702-941-0371. 4201 West 4th Street. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. % 702-825-1250. coffee shops. the lake’s first casino. also run the gamut with delis. a casino. The hotels. % 702-588-6611. % 702-588-6276. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. % 702-827-4111. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. The Chart House. is a rousing pub with good food. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. Open for dinner only. The French cuisine is made with fresh.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. % 702-323-3200. Famous Murphys. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. of course. Open for dinner only. along with Caesars Tahoe. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. % 702-786-1323. serves fresh Japanese steak. $. Steak. no TVs and. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. 3127 South Virginia Street. 328 Kingsbury Grade. % 702-588-2411. seasonal ingredients. ethnic food and full buffets. . For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. The restaurant also does its own baking. % 702-323-5550. 3065 West 4th Street. Reservations are recommended. try the Glory Hole. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. the menu changes every two months. The place has 14 rooms. 1200 Razorback Road. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. 210 North Sierra Street. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site.
. % 702-882-4556. % 702-348-9297. % 702-847-0111. % 702-689-7226.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. % 702-356-3300. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. 1112 North Carson Street. Silvana’s. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. El Charro Avitia. serves fine French cuisine. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. dinner only on weekends. % 702882-1626. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. % 702786-5700. this is the place. 402 East William Street. Two blocks away. seafood and steak. 255 North Sierra Street. 1301 North Carson Street. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. 507 North Carson Street. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. Boasting a large Italian menu. 234 North Virginia. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. % 702-785-7000. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. % 702-883-6261. % 702-882-3353. Heidi’s. The Carson Nugget Steak House. % 702-882-0486. one of the top Italian eateries in country. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. the Eldorado. % 702-8262121. and Peppermill. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. There is also an extensive wine list. 2707 South Virginia Street. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. 1540 Main Street. Adele’s. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. % 702-8835100. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. 1020 North Carson Street. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. South of the city center and south of the border. 4389 South Carson Street. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget.
some for RVs and some for tents. nine for RVs. % 702-8822766. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. The overnight fee is $7. For information and fees. Call the Cedarville. Open May through October. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. lies south of the river. including Virgin Valley. % 916-573-2600. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. Showers are available.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. . California. the campground has 24 sites. % 916-279-6101. office of the BLM. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. call % 702266-3343. Big Spring Reservoir. % 702-687-4319. Mount Rose has running water. Set at 8. The overnight rate is $12. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. Simply wonderful. Reno RV Park. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. The nightly fee is $5. 2500 East 2nd Street. % 702-323-3381. the campground has 54 sites and running water. There are 44 campsites here. % 702-789-2000. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. for more information. which straddles the Nevada-California border. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. 1300 West 2nd Street. Rates run about $18 per night. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. Open June through September. % 702-322-2281. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. Nightly fees are $6. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. 735 Mill Street. On the Nevada side. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. The campground is extremely popular in summer months.900 feet.
In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. pausing only long enough to change mounts. Incredibly. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Bible and mail pouch. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Missouri. On October 24. wiry fellows not over eighteen. skinny. and Sacramento.. Joseph. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. California. carrying only a pistol. the gutsy riders. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures.. Orphans preferred. Want ads called for “Young.” Riders. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. 1861. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. the delivery time was as little as 10 days.Pony Express Territory vada. Beginning in April 1860. tore between stations. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. willing to risk death daily.
one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. so be prepared for anything. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. this area has plenty to offer.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. glacier-carved peaks. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. In the higher mountains. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. As might be expected. spans some of the most beautiful. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. . which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. Near the town of Ely.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. But if you consider solitude. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. ridges and valleys in the country. Ranging in elevation from 3. there is excellent skiing. Just a few hours from Ely. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. hiking and wildlife viewing. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. Great Basin. It also harbors a wildly varying climate.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
000 photographic images.000 people. January through March. 1000 Auction Road. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. April through December. % 702-423-3677. % 702-423-5128.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. Over 14. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail.000 years. snowy plovers. .000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. % 702-867-3500. With 10. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. (See On Water. Admission is free. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. 1050 South Maine Street. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. pelicans. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. green-winged teals. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. White-faced ibis. In peak years. below. Sunday. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. canvasbacks.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. peregrine falcons. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. covers 77. In recent years.
located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. Over 8. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. Adam Fortunate Eagle. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years.000 years ago. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. At press time. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. The hunting season usually opens in October. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. Every spring.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. On the south end of town. Just off the highway are two short trails. More than 21. and “management” means hunting. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. which features the famous Blue Angels. Just east of town. Pony Express Territory . Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. is the artist in residence here. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71.
about three miles past West Gate. but strenuous. A hike to the precipice is a safe. volcanic cliffs around it. % 702-423-4556. regularly emanate from the dune. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. If the roar of engines ever dies down. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. dark. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. wild West. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. fauna. NV 89406. the low. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. roars and moans.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. Fallon. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. Fallon. % 702-423-2544. Near the station. NV 89406. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side.” Booms. 379 West William Avenue. geology and history of the region. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors).” meaning sword. . caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. listen for the mountain’s “singing. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. 100 Campus Way. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site.
The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. the boom was followed by the bust. 13 miles east of Austin. then climbs again to Austin. Austin is a quiet.350 feet. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. However the rush began. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. then to paved NV 376. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. NV 89310. past Bob Scott campground.577 feet. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. NV 89045. Spencer’s Hot Springs. Six miles later. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. % 702-964-2145. As always. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. Round Mountain. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . Austin. PO Box 212. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. population about 300. % 702-964-2200. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. Three miles later. PO Box 1149. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town.
BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50.106 n Pony Express Territory sort.500 years ago. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. NV 89310. A series of safe. At mile 55. The hill is located on private land.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. NV 89820. At mile 30. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. . After merging with Lower Mine Road. PO Box 1420. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. Austin. PO Box 212. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. There is also a free campground here. % 702635-4000. experienced cavers only. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. % 702-964-2200. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. Battle Mountain. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. is recommended for serious. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. A long. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. The limestone cavern. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. are open to visitors just off the road.000 years ago. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. near Pete’s Summit.
was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. Eureka’s population of 9. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. Not until five years later. but most definitely worth a gander. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. Gold mines.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. The building. Eureka. are still a major facet of the local economy. found in the valleys around Eurkea. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. and the Jackson House Hotel. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. The shell of the building. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. By 1878. however. Eureka. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. % 702-237-5484. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. Still. NV 89316. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. completed in 1880 and still in use today. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. PO Box 14. some a little less gloriously than others. But by 1890 the rush was over. The state’s No. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. dates from 1877.
the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. US 50 rolls across basin and range. n Ely Back on US 50. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. Entering town at night . A few miles farther south. PO Box 14. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman.500 residents.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. Monday through Friday and by appointment. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. Situated at 9. Pronounced EE-lee. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit.000 feet. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. this mini-city (population about 5. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. % 702-237-5484. Eureka. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. NV 89316. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike.
One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. like many museums in this territory. showers and hiking trails. depot. Return to US 50. % 702-2894710. Prices start at $10 per person. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. The museum. former First Lady Pat Nixon. % 702-728-4467. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. Admission is free.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. The White Pine Public Museum. furniture. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. Tours of the railroad yard. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. There is primitive camping here. running water. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine.300 feet. depart on selected dates from May through September. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. NV 89301. East Ely. clothing. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline.50 per person. accessories. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. 2000 Aultman Street. Pony Express Territory . engine house. a bicycle. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. Since they went cold in the 1880s. Call for exact dates and times. On the other side of town. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. as well as an original. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. located on East 11th Street. % 702-289-2085. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. PO Box 150040.
000 people a year visit the park. Only about 70. % 800496-9350. For more information. untamed backcountry. That leads quickly to Baker. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. sometimes by the hundreds. 636 Aultman Street. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. % 702-289-8877. % 702-234-7331. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. contact the Ely office of the BLM. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. 1986. a proposal to create a 6. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. 150 6th Street. In the 1950s a . the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. % 702-289-4865. Bristlecone Convention Center. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. In 1922. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. From Baker.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. While hikers are welcome. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. Designated a national park in October. Most of the 77.
Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. $3 for juniors. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. .000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. (See On Foot and Camping. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. Tours of the cavern.000. limited to 30 people at a time. Prices are $4 for adults. Baker. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. or speleotherms: stalactites. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. in 1986. columns. below. are held every day except Thanksgiving. flowstone and soda straws. The high-altitude campgrounds. then head straight out of the park. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. are hard to beat. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. too. Finally. Christmas and New Year’s Day. among others.086-acre Great Basin National Park.000 to 44. draperies. % 702-234-7331. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. Call ahead for conditions. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. the park’s crown jewel.067-foot Wheeler Peak. NV 89311-9702. Congress settled on 77. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. While celebrating a victory.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. which is actually one huge cavern.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. stalagmites. ski resorts and tramways. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman.
The garnets found here. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. Carvers NW. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely.600 feet. which has picnic tables and shade trees. . South Toiyabe Peak. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes.000 feet. or use paved NV 376. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. Tierney Creek. Drive three miles to the recreation area. are spessartite. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. Arc Dome. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. To reach Garnet Hill. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. Millet Ranch. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. Set at 7. to reach the village of Kingston. a few of which are even of gem quality. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. % 702-9642671. Bakeoven Creek.
as well as all the water you will need. and Mount Moriah. If threatening clouds approach. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. windswept paths. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. This is some serious highcountry hiking. set aside in 1989. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. which at 12. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. a unique. % 702-289-3031 for more information. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. nausea. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. After about 10 miles of hiking. with many trails climbing above 10. From the trailhead/parking area. The wilderness. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. headache. The trail ends just before the summit. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. leave the high country immediately. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. 1.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found.000-acre. which may be impassable when wet. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. Pony Express Territory . don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must.000 feet along rocky. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. is marked with trailhead signs. Baker. which heads west toward the peak.
000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. the six-mile . Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. To reach the summit. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. This is another depression etched by a glacier.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. or cirque. the last 1. The bowl. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West.063 feet. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. If it is safe to venture to the peak. then turn left again.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. Finally. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. In 1878. then descends to Teresa Lake. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. the views of the 8. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. Use extreme caution here. At 13. Continue straight. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier.
Turn left. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh.926-foot Pyramid Peak. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. Wheeler Peak. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. To return to the trailhead. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. this is a nice overnight stop. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. once the site of some mining activity. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. After about three miles.950 years. subalpine conditions. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. Lehman Caves. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. Kious Spring. Around mile six. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. To continue the loop hike. . In good weather.700 feet in the first seven miles.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. Return the way you came. just off to the east.” Follow this exposed route toward 11.
% 702-289-8886. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. 2005 Harrigan Road. 89301. HCR 33. % 800-874-0903. 89406. 89883. 1707 Rice Road. Silver State Stables. a quartermile. Daum. 5030 Reno Highway. Burdick Guide Service. 189 Aultman Street. 89406. Flying M Stables. PO Box 34005. White River Guide Service. J & P Auto Parts. % 702-4239215. HC 34. is worth a gander. 1050 Aultman Street. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. % 702-867-3388. 89301. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. sells camping and outdoor equipment. Great Basin Inn. 203 Heritage Drive. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. % 702-2893063. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. % 702423-9215. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. % 702-423-6171. As of presstime. Wildlife West Guide Service. Wendover George A. % 702-289-4208. 89301. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. Sportsworld. 89406. % 702-664-2977. 89406. % 702235-7439. 701 Avenue F.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. 89301. % 702-289-4468. 89406. PO Box 2560. . % 702-423-5185. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. 3125 Stark Lane. 89301. % 702-238-5232. 89301. Box 33570.
Austin By its hip marketing campaign. contact the BLM. population 300. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. Austin. NV 89310. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route.000 per year. % 702-885-6000. A 10-mile loop with a 1. NV 89310. Dune-buggy. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. The route runs north out of the canyon. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . one would think tiny Austin. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. the sixstory. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. % 702-964-2671.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. PO Box 504. brochures and campgrounds. For more information. PO Box 130. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. Austin. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. For more information.
From the pavement. % 702-234-7331. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. when the weather is dry. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. past the US Forest Service station. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. directions and road conditions. and bring plenty of water. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. 1500 Aultman Street. % 702-289-8886. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. . Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. sells and services bicycles. for maps. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon.
Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. along with sportfishing. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. In 1997. Lahontan State Recreation Area. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. surrounds a 10. % 702-688-1500. where worms and corn are said to work best. White crappie can be hooked March through May. Boat ramps are located in two spots.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. Pony Express Territory . Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. The trout limit is 10.
and one of the best bargains. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. % 702-423-6031.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. J & P Auto Parts. $-$$. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. via paved NV 376 and a three. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. A few chain HO TE L .to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. The Upper Reese River. Great Basin Inn. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. 1050 Aultman Street. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. 1500 Aultman Street. % 702-289-8886. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. % 702-289-4865. 855 West Williams Avenue. % 702-289-4468. % 702-289-3063. which feeds the lake. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. 701 Avenue F. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. is one of the biggest places in town.
set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. while on the southern edge of town. The ranch. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. also called Main Street here. % 702-423-4254. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. a heated pool and interior corridors. % 702-423-5151. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. $-$$. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . % 702-423-5554. called Main Street as it runs through town. which has 17 rooms. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. $. It is open seasonally. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. % 702-237-5247. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. 1830 West Williams Avenue. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. The red brick structure was built in 1877. which has 49 rooms. $$$.800 acres. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. % 702-964-2698. Smith Creek Ranch. basic equipment. is a modern. which is north-south running US 95. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. instruction. $-$$. the Pony Express House. but after a long day on the road. As you drive in from the west. has 21 rooms. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). 70 East Williams Avenue. % 702-237-5334. has 27 rooms. including the Comfort Inn. 180 West Williams Avenue. 25 North Taylor Street. try Jackson House B&B. $$$. and. with 10 rooms. a heated pool and a small casino. the Budget Inn. % 702-964-2306. $$. $. The Nevada Belle Motel. % 702-237-5577. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. $-$$. which has 30 rooms. The Sundown Lodge. Call for information. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. combines a B&B with a private.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. 1705 South Taylor Street. % 702-423-4648. The Eureka Motel. meals and overnight accommodations. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. % 702-423-2194. $-$$. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. the 22-room Value Inn. $. rates and directions. % 702-423-2277. the Lincoln Motel. % 702-964-2471. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. $$. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. % 702-9642605. most of which are on US 50. 115 Northwest Main Street. $-$$. $-$$. On the east end of town. has 17 rooms. For a real blast from the past. who really cares. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms.
there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. which has 19 rooms. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. 701 Avenue I. 501 Aultman Street. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). % 702-289-8900. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. % 702289-6671. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. 770 Avenue O. The inn is open June through September. Ely With a population of more than 5. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. 1101 Aultman Street. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. 220 East 11th Street. 5th . 700 Avenue I. % 702-289-4747. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. % 702-289-4497. the inn has five rooms with private baths. $. $. % 702-289-8687. $-$$. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. For a more genteel stay. $-$$. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. 1501 Avenue F. 500 High Street. $-$$$. $$-$$$. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. % 702-237-9988. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. $-$$. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. and its twin. located on the south side of town off US 93. % 702-289-4884. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. The Bristlecone Motel. % 702-289-6665. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen.300.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. There are also private balconies. is another living antique. which has 61 rooms. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. the building was vacant 10 years later. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. % 702-2891234. two-story hotel. $-$$. has 21 rooms. 930 Aultman Street. $$. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. $-$$. After years of dormancy. % 702-289-8838. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. For a more modern taste.
is a favorite spot for travelers. and the White Pine Motel. % 702234-7300. % 702-289-4411. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. % 702-234-7323. Utah. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. . $. $. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. PO Box 90. and two others outside of Baker. guided tours and off-road adventures. $-$$. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. % 702-234-7272.. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. Behind the Silverjack. so call ahead for operating hours. The Silverjack Motel. % 702-234-7267. the Border Inn. 150 4th Street. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. $. % 702234-7323. % 702-289-3033.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. 1301 Aultman Street. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison.. % 702-237-7302. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. South of Baker at the national park boundary. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. and Whispering Elms RV Park. what with its 29 rooms. which has a laundromat and showers. % 702-234-7343. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. NV 89311. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. It is open June through August. with its seven rooms. even fast food joints are nonexistent. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. $-$$. along with horseback riding. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. % 702-289-3800. Baker. $. 24hour laundromat and showers. offers tipis and a campground.er.
The Mexican food at La Cocina. In 1929 and ’30. % 702-964-2220. including the few eateries. 960 Auction Road. lunch and dinner. is home to The Diner. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Kentucky Fried Chicken. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. is also open for three squares a day. % 702-964-9905. 70 South Maine Street. Stockman’s Casino. % 702-964-2493. The Fallon Nugget Casino. % 702-423-3111. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. Open for breakfast. however. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. % 702-423-3233. have been serving great burgers. is Fallon’s only coffee house. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. Carol’s Country Kitchen. is known throughout Fallon. 1560 West Williams Avenue. serves up steaks. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. Café Nations.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. In the 1920s and ‘30s. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. Smack in the center of town. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. % 702-423-5588. including McDonald’s. specializing in omelets and steaks. % 702423-6828. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). Toiyabe Café. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. Denny’s. The Depot Casino. % 702-423-6166. % 702-867-3750. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. 875 West Williams Avenue. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. 1350 West Williams Avenue. try Mary’s Owl . 4150 Reno Highway. Tony’s. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. 1955 McClean Road. If your mind is on pizza. % 702-867-2769. % 702-423-2117. 125 South Maine Street. The International Café and Bar.
serves a fine steak sandwich. % 702-289-3033. % 702-289-4884. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. Lahontan State Recreation Area. Fallon RV Park. located three miles north of town on US 93. serving diner-style grub. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. % 702-237-5356. 4800 Reno Highway. top sirloin steak and eggs. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. might as well top it off in Eureka. and Orient Express. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. however. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. % 702-289-4888. % 702-867-2332. 701 Avenue I. and is attached to a bar. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. % 702-867-3636. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. % 702-237-5280. is also open 24 hours a day. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. % 702-964-2412. 5787 Reno Highway. 562 Aultman Street. where the restaurants are also along US 50. offers 45 sites. % 702-289-3313. 501 Aultman Street. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. 2160 Aultman Street. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. 1455 Aultman Street. % 702-289-6665.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. which features prime rib. % 702-237-5477. and Hubtotel RV Park. Believe it or not. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. Jerry Restaurant No. has 64 sites. The Owl Club. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. 21. % 702-2289-3765. % 702-964-2627. % 702-688-1500. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. The Fireside Inn. 211 5th Street. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . West of Fallon. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. The Busy Bee Drive-In. % 702-289-3905. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. begins serving its large portions of breakfast.
North of Ely. picnic tables and vault toilets. % 702-964-2671. Austin. set at 7.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. NV 89820. PO Box 1420. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area.500 feet. For information. Austin RV Park. then go a mile to County Road 1059. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. Battle Mountain. Just east of the Eureka town limits. Bob Scott Campground. Finally. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range.800 feet. along with campfire rings.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. 24 miles east of Austin. both off of US 50. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. Just east of town. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. grills. PO Box 130. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. To reach Bird Creek campground. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. For more information and road conditions. which are open June through September with running water. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. % 702-635-4000. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. About nine miles south of Big Creek. Open April to October. as there are no services near the water. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. Only six miles southwest of Ely. where there are eight campsites set at 7. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. No running water or firewood. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. % 702-964-1011. There is drinking water here. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. NV 89310. After a few miles. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south.300 feet. There are 10 sites here . has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. There are 15 sites. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. None have running water.
which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District.530 feet.300 feet. depending on weather conditions. % 702-234-7331. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. and there are no showers. On the northern edge of the park. Upper Lehman. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. Pony Express Territory . All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. For more information.886 feet. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. % 702-2893031. There are 30 sites here at 7. NV. In the center of the park. Ely. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. % 702-2893413. 350 8th Street. The BLM. In Great Basin National Park. To reach the campground from US 50. % 702-2893303. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. has 100 sites. % 702-289-4865. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. and Valley View RV Park. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake.752 feet. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Contact the visitors center.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8.250 feet). 89301. Set at 7. this is the only park campground open all year. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. on US 93. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9.
gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. Named Methuselah. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. the oldest living thing on earth. The short. Desert bighorn sheep. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces.000 feet and more. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat.700 years.000-year-old duck decoys. humans. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. started pulling core samples.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. who described them as “lowly old giants. . reaching as high as 11. call many parts of this high country home. sagebrushcovered sea. Today in Cowboy Country.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. Throughout history. He found one living specimen dating back 4. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. Edmund Schulman. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. however. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. not many of them stayed around very long. the state animal.
driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. towns like Winnemucca. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. and know how to use them. Elko headed the list of the 100 . Carry good maps and a compass. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. In 1993. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. In fact. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. Summers are generally hot and dry. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. streams. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°.000 years. bikers and equestrians. lakes and reservoirs. bass and other gamefish. The weather here can be as wild as the land. Winter brings rain and snow. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers.
followed by the doomed Donner Party. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. but everyday tools. both held in Elko. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. But since the early days. took to sheepherding. paralleled the Humboldt River. combed Cowboy Country. Cowboy Country . leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. but thanks to new mining technology. after the riches ran out. others moved on. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. including one named Samuel Clemens. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. lunch and dinner. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. parts of which are still visible today. This is a place where pick-up trucks. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. In late 1860s. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. The famous trail. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. one thing has remained constant: life on the range.
A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. located on the southern outskirts of town. Five miles southwest of the shelter. about 17 miles from Lovelock. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. After eight miles. George Lovelock. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. which the company named after him. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. turn left on Derby Road. which crosses the Humboldt River. With a population of just over 2. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. which measures .132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T.300. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around.000-square-mile Pershing County. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. The seat of 6. arrived here in 1866. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush.
sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. Lovelock. which also features the community pool. Tufas. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. NV 89419. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. Scientific excavations. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. many of which were donated by locals. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. in 1886 or 1887. % 702-273-2713.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. PO Box 821. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. picnicperfect park. Admission is free. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. One of only two round courthouses in the country. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. are large. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. He may have been led there by Natchez. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . the first ever in the Great Basin. Mummified remains were found here. dark. clothing and household items. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute.
see below under Adventures. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. fishing and camping. After later taking the name Mark Twain. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. Lovelock. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. where stone . % 702-273-2713. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. which seems close enough to touch. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). Open all year. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. PO Box 821. For details. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. as well as opportunities for boating. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936.134 n Cowboy Country vada. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. below) and wellmanicured homes. About 16 families reside in Unionville. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. NV 89419. is centered on this man-made lake. % 702-538-7321. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399).
The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. Edna Purviance. To reach Unionville from I-80. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. Curator . which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. % 702-623-2912. Today their descendants. except for lunch. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. % 702/623-2225. dancing. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. a good spot for a picnic. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. Winnemucca (population 7. From here it’s five miles to the town. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. a former resident. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. the Humboldt Museum complex. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. They later brought their families. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. Admission is free. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces.
which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. % 800-962-2638. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. along with a thank you note. St. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. 352 Bridge Street. but all are easily drivable. Winnemucca. NV 89445. % 702-623-1500. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. The tour visits 30 sites. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. There is a gift shop next door. Winnemucca. Like something out of old Mexico. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. 705 East Fourth Street. 95 Bridge Street. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday.000. US Forest Service. Winnemucca. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Another gem is the Shone House. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier.000 in gold. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. was erected in 1863. Winnemucca. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. NV 89445. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. 602 Bridge Street. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. The thieves escaped to Texas. NV 89445. nabbing $32. . one of two in the country. The former First National Bank. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. % 702623-5025. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. NV 89445. % 702-623-5025.
about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. A 20th-century ghost town. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Midas is two miles from this junction. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. Three years later the village became Paradise City. To reach the remains of the camp. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. Today about 100 people live in town. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. When the ore turned out to be lackluster.300 people had moved by 1913. along with the local watering hole. established Scottsdale in 1866. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. The Rochester Mining District. which serves as a meeting place and information center. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. once a busy town of more than 2. The camp was abandoned by 1869. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. all but 250 people left. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. which . Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. after fending off resident Paiutes. Jungo. the town was an empty shell. and 2. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. between Winnemucca and Lovelock.
gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. beautiful high-country lake. (See Adventures. Paradise Saloon. is easy to locate. deli and soda fountain. After all. located on the extreme east end of town. % 702-7383418. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. Basque . % 702-623-5025. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. 1515 Idaho Street. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. fishing and camping. however. this is Cowboy Country. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. obtain maps. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. Just south of town. biking. verdant marshes. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. In Winnemucca. Gas is also available. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. The local mining. It’s the white. % 702-578-3381. A state park.) In town. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. sometimes an angler’s paradise. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. (See Adventures and Camping. offers a bar.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. this town of about 25.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper.
1 PM to 5 PM. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. geography. Hertz Rent-A-Car. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. % 800-8727245. Displays of local wildlife. also known as J. For airport information. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy.Touring n 139 immigrants. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). the center celebrates the lyricism of the West.C. % 800-453-9417. % 702-738-7508. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. 9 AM to 5 PM. along with various other events throughout the year. Harris Field. El Aero Services. % 800-654-3131. % 702-738-5131. Admission is free. 10 AM to 5 PM. and Sunday. % 702-738-7123. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. and a charter airline. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-331-1212. Deweys Rent-A-Car. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. The Western Folklife Center. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. . geology and industry abound.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. 501 Railroad Street. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains.
n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. 89803.800 feet). From town. At the . set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. % 702-738-5171. fishing and camping in the entire West. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. 89801. 89801. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. % 800-248-ELKO. 90. 1601 Idaho Street. (See Adventures and Camping. Elko. 976 Mountain City Highway. with elevations ranging up to 11. From Elko. % 702-753-0200. Elko. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. 700 Moren Way. Elko. 89801.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. passing Powerhouse picnic area. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. 3900 East Idaho Street. including the remote. Elko.387 feet at Ruby Dome. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. located southeast of Elko. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. Elko Chamber of Commerce. Alpine vistas. % 702-738-7135. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. Humboldt National Forest. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate.
500 people flooded into the region. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. see below. The road leads east 21 miles. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. For access to both. a high clearance vehicle is required. then north another 25 miles. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. Nevada. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. Idaho. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. . The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916.387 feet. is visible in the west. For details on all of this. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. is spectacular. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. U-shaped valley. More than 1. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks.Touring n 141 crest. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. (See On Foot. and by the 1930s the rush was over. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. check with the owners of the Trading Post. down into Jarbidge Canyon. or call them at % 702-488-2315. Ruby Dome. Even when they are open. turns south. From the south. this town sticks to Mountain Time.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. Yes. so drive cautiously. From Wells. the road meets the Jarbidge River. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. rising 11. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. and there’s no argument here. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho.
and the 37. Cool. both available at the Trading Post. This is also the junction of US 93. 4 and go five miles northeast. exit at No. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever.) On the Utah side of the state line. The town was abandoned in 1942. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. Before entering town. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. stare out across the famous. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. n Wells From Elko. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. % 801-665-7721. the 44. Sunday until 9 PM. head east from the border. Bonneville Speedway Museum. For ghost town fans. of course. stop at Horizon Viewpoint.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. To access the flats. which rises to 11. the main artery running up the east side of the state. The range is also home to Angel Lake. the presence of casinos. reached easily via a paved highway. 647 Humboldt Avenue. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. n Wendover From Wells. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. % 702-752-3215. try Stuart’s Foodtown. however. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. the main difference between the two sides being.
June Both hay. which attracts upwards of 10. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. Eagles. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. hawks.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. the historic World War II B-29s. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information.000 buckaroos. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. a . first at the Miner’s Rodeo. % 702-664-3414. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. which gains 1. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard.600 feet in two miles. is held in late March or early April. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. The night before the events. falcons and ospreys are common. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country.
Phone numbers can be found above.or 23-mile loop. six.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. For details. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. featuring food. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. a parade and feats of strength. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. call % 702-635-8245. when tanks.. July In July. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. In Wendover. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. dancing. Unless otherwise indicated. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. There is a traditional dance contest. The largest Basque get-together in the US. Near Wendover. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. under Touring. hear the music and eat the food. . the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. The town of McDermitt.
Falcon Press Publishing. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. The trailhead appears after three miles.000 feet in four miles. which .Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. Star Peak (elevation 9. From the top. leads due east toward the highest point. This makes for a great loop drive. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. willow and cottonwood country. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. crossing Buffalo Creek.200 feet. The trail is punishing. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. Granite Peak (elevation 9. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. Star Peak. including the 31. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. Aspen. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. The first half of the moderately strenous. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. passable by high-clearance vehicles. the road. Pronghorn antelope. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. To reach the trail.732) is the highest point.834 feet). To reach the trailhead. 1994. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. Chartered in 1989. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. From here. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. climbing more than 4.
000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. descends toward a watercourse. about one mile south of town.415). USGS 7.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. including Singas Creek. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. cirque basins. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. more than 10.800 feet above sea .6 miles to a parking area. Come prepared for anything. % 702-623-5025. Hikers can visit rock peaks.” Elevations range from 6. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. narrow canyons. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. big horn sheep. depending on weather conditions. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. Return the way you came. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. Horses are welcome on these trails. where you turn south. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). glacial lakes.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. Mountain lions. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. rolling sage-covered hills and steep.
The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. After about a mile and a half. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. set at 9. At 10. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. as there are no trout here. Pause to rest but not to fish. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. Feel free. Franklin Lake NW. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. From Roads End. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. so check road conditions before heading out. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. and his dog Molly.300-foot . but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. of course. Hyslop. know this region as well as anyone. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. The 1. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead.400 feet. this is the high point of the trek.500 feet. The pass is often closed in winter. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. The five-mile. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail.400 feet and heads north. % 702-738-7135. % 702-752-3357. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area.Adventures n 147 level.
but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek.000-foot mark. Wild- .000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. Just past the spring. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. Idaho.700 feet.000 feet to 10. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. Return the way you came. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. From the trailhead. Most of the paths are found in the 113. the closest town. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. Unfortunately. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). Finally.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. subalpine forests. The trail drops again. On a good day. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. mountain whitefish. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. brown and rainbow trout. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. is also a good fishing spot. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. Channel cats. The site has a paved boat ramp. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. campsites and restrooms. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. call % 702-758-6493. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. and everything is open year-round. % 702-623-5025. supports brook. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. For more information.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. rainbows. and black bass have become a favorite catch. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. To reach the lake from Elko. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters.
Water fowl are common in spring and early summer.000 acres. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. so check road conditions before heading out. trumpeter swam. midway between the northern and southern portions. elevation 8.154 n Cowboy Country ers. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. At the foot of the range. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. white-faced ibis. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. Angel Lake Near Wells. Turn left and head south 32 miles. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. For an easier drive from Wells. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout.800 feet. contact the US Forest Service. Within six miles of the trailhead. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. . Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. % 702-738-5171. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. short-eared owl and American kestrel. great sandhill crane. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. To reach the refuge from Elko. including bald and golden eagle. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. For more information.
contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. % 702-625-2453. % 702-7388473. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. are the best bets here. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. 89833. PO Box 515. Grandview Marine. HC30 Box 17 #13. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. catfish. % 702-664-3414. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. 89833. Elko Guide Service. % 702-7382775. Raley’s. % 702779-2226. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . 423 South Bridge Street. HC 60. PO Box 685. For more information. 89801.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. % 702-777-DIVE. 89801. Rainbow. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. crystalline Blue Lakes. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. 2511 Mountain City Highway. 1250 Lamoille Highway. 285 12th Street. HC 60. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. the bowcut trout. In warmer months. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. % 702779-2268. To reach the 2. % 702-7442277. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. have become a local haven for divers. 89801. the spring-fed.400-acre lake. Secret Pass Outfitters. 89801.
There is one chairlift and one surface lift. 55 Cornell Avenue. with a 24-hour casino. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. restaurant. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. . HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. Although there isn’t a television to be found. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. 1420 Cornell Avenue.500 to 6. offers 130 acres of terrain. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. depending on snowfall. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. $$$.500 feet. is the most happening place in town. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. Lunch and dinner are extra. pool and jacuzzi. % 702-273-2937. Elko SnoBowl. To reach the ranch from I80. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. is convenient to I-80. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. % 702-538-7585. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. not to mention 74 rooms. $$. The Lovelock Inn. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. % 800-528-1234. then head west for five miles to town. $-$$. % 702-753-6867. % 702-738-7135. ranging from 5. one tame and the other decidedly not so. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. covering 5. The outfit boasts 5. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. lodging and all the extras.200 feet.000 acres of skiable mountain. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. 2805 Unionville Road. Trips are limited to 16 people.200 vertical feet. lounge. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko.
% 702-738-8787. $$. but also its own charter airline. % 800-633-6435. There are plenty of cheap. % 800-645-5658. 400 1st Street. $$-$$$$. eateries. restaurant and full bar. the 170-room Holiday Inn. with 150 rooms. 837 Idaho Street. Casino Express. is for you. offering 70 rooms. 2065 Idaho Street. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. $$. % 800-262-8901. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. the Gold Country Motor Inn. $$$. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. % 702-623-5248. $$-$$$. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. There are also two Best Westerns. the Super 8. $$-$$$. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. $$-$$$. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. % 702-623-1116. % 702-625-1818. in- . The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. $$. % 702-738-8425. % 800-346-5306. the Red Lion Inn. the 80-room Val-U Inn. 2050 Idaho Street. $$$$$.000. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. % 702-623-1180. casino. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). basic motels on the main drag. including the queen of Elko establishments. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Days Inn. 1930 Idaho Street. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. a pool and 223 rooms. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 3015 Idaho Street. starting with the two biggies. $$. a lounge with live entertainment. and the Motel 6. $-$$. the Ameritel Inn Elko. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-3661. restaurant and bar. and the generic. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. $$. % 800-545-0044. The Red Lion not only has a casino. offers 40 rooms. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. % 702-7387261. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. and the Holiday Motel. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-738-8421. $-$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. The Gold Country Inn. and the Model T Motel. the Red Lion Inn. % 702-623-3646.
PO Box 281381. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. $$$-$$$$. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. jacuzzi and fitness center. % 702-578-3530. $$$$. bar and pool. restaurants. $$-$$$. Stockmen’s Hotel. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. % 702-738-8488. % 702-753-6356. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. some with kitchenettes. Jiggs Guest Ranch. % 702-753-6363. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. is an exclusive. There is even space for campers and RVers. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. Away from Idaho Street. hiking and fly fishing. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. % 702-753-6281. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. biking and horseback riding. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. $$. $$-$$$. There are 141 rooms. 2401 Mountain City Highway. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. Just outside of Lamoille. has 70 rooms. a swimming pool. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. The Shilo Inn. detached cabin with jacuzzi. along with a pool. $$. % 702-738-5141. 340 Commercial Street. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. $$$-$$$$. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. Lamoille. $$$-$$$$. % 702-738-7115. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. PO Box 281208. 89828. . Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. and the Thunderbird Motel. Stonehouse Country Inn. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. $-$$. $-$$. 345 Idaho Street. including skeet shooting. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. Red’s Ranch. % 702-738-5522. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. $-$$. 1755 Idaho Street.
930 6th Street. 456 6th Street. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. % 702-752-3384. $. $. if you’re into chains. Together . 89826. even by the neighbors in Utah. % 702-488-2315. $-$$. Down the street. HC 62. $-$$$$. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. the Rest Inn Suites. If not. There are 57 rooms. % 702-752-2116. % 702-752-2151. Jarbidge. There are more than 1. For more information. PO Box 260090. % 702-752-2277. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. 576 6th Street. offers another 24 rooms. PO Box 300. % 702-7523065. $$$-$$$$. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. $. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. 326 6th Street. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. the Outdoor Inn. Cottonwood Ranch. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. $-$$. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. % 702-4082338. $-$$. % 702-488-2311. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. has 56 rooms. most of them planted along 6th Street. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. and the Best Western Sage Motel. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. $$-$$$.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. On the north side of town. % 702-752-2101. % 702-752-3604. $$-$$$. % 702-752-3888. $. HC 62. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. 1250 East 6th Street. the Chinatown Motel. $-$$. which also has a restaurant and bar. and the Old West Inn. % 800-848-7300. The Super 8. On Main Street. PO Box 1300. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. % 702-752-3353. 100 Wendover Boulevard.
680 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-273-7444. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. % 702-664-2888. and Pizza Factory. $-$$. 1035 Wendover Boulevard.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. tennis courts. a health club. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. along with daily specials. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-273-3232. pool and jacuzzi. with 90 rooms. % 800-537-0207.000-square-foot casino. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. % 702-273-7773. Mexican food and pizza. and until 2 PM on Sunday. La Casita. jacuzzi. is open until 10 PM every day. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. the Super 8. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. shrimp and Basque side dishes. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. live showroom entertainment. a 14. . which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. The Peppermill Hotel. $$-$$$. % 800-648-9660. which has live entertainment. 485 Cornell Avenue. Nearby. 410 Cornell Avenue. serving steak. Wee B’s Pizza & More. 1420 Cornell Avenue. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. live entertainment. lunch and dinner. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. lounges. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. which basks in the Basque tradition. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. 9 PM on Sunday. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. % 702-623-3197. including restaurants and lounges. is another gamer’s haven. In the center of town. $$. pool. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. restaurants. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. % 702-273-2971. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. offers breakfast. leg of lamb. 260 Maine Street. % 702-273-2442. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. 750 Cornell Avenue.
Another Basque establishment. 405 Silver Street. since 1863. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. This being ranch country. % 702-623-4440. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. The Steak House. % 800-545-0044. China Garden. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. Stockmen’s Hotel. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. Toki Ona. but get there before 1 PM. % 702-623-4104. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-738-3214. Specializing in steak. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. % 702-623-3455. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. % 702-623-6777. Restaurante San Fermin. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. % 702-625-2555. home of the world’s largest potato field. 180 Melarkey Street. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. 95 South Bridge Street. 2065 Idaho Street. % 702-623-2908. seafood and chicken. % 702-623-2977. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. .Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. % 702-738-9691. 340 Commercial Street. 1550 Idaho Street. The atmosphere is definitely casual. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 1061 West Fourth Street. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. Elko The Red Lion Inn. % 702-738-5141. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. while The Griddle. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. all of their meat is cut to order.
Pizza Barn. % 702-753-6363. 2525 Mountain City Highway. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. 1740 Mountain City Highway. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. % 702-753-6356. % 702-4882315. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. delivers on its name. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. La Fiesta. to peruse the ornate bar. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. % 702-752-3210. 780 Commercial Street. . also serves hearty meals. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. % 702-753-3877. % 702-738-1622. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. Main and Humboldt Streets. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. % 702-7382541. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). opens daily at 11 AM. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. depending on weather conditions.300 souls. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. % 702-738-7898. If you crave Mexican food. Burger Bar. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. where it survived The Big One in ’06. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. Prices range from moderate to expensive. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. % 702-738-7088. 217 Idaho Street. 9 Beans and a Burrito. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. Pine Lodge. % 702-488-2311.
Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. which holds trout and walleye. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. 23. 25. call % 702-538-7321. The other one. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. just north of the dam. the area has two campgrounds. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. Set at 7. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. For more information. $3 per night in winter. $8 for a two-family site. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. call % 702-738-5171. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. The Peppermill Hotel.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. 100 Wendover Boulevard. % 800-848-7300. 22 miles north of Lovelock. % 800-648-9660. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. The main draw here is 11.600 feet. offer 12 different restaurants. Sites 22. There is running water and vault toilets. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. For more information.400 feet. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. located at the end of Hanson Street. Set at 7. The fee is $7 per night. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. call % 800-962-2638.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. Fees are $7 per night in summer. For more information. 27 and 29 are especially good. two beautiful US Forest Service . For modern hunter-gatherers. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells.
For information on the above campgrounds. has 37 first-come. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night.900 feet. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. % 702-752-3357. For more information. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. One mile north of town. and are open June to October. with running water. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. offering 18 sites with running water. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. first-served sites. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites.500 feet. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. including three run by the US Forest Service. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. The cabins are open October through mid-May. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. About five miles up NV 225.800 feet and is popular with anglers. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. depending on the availability of running water. and the fee is $8 per night. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. The fee is $5 per night. % 208-5434129. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. all free. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. Angel Creek is set at 6. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. and the fee is $7 per night. Set at 8. . Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. The campground. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. but no running water. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby.
Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. Others. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. US For- B Pioneer Territory . like Belmont and Rhyolite. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. writer. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. who once roamed this entire area. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. are in a state of “arrested decay. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. like Silver Peak and Goldfield.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. Meanwhile.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. both socially and physically. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. however.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. an 11.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. In the Mojave Desert.000. Geographically. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. low taxes. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. then limber pine at higher elevations. Nevada Division of State Parks. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. affordable housing . pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. Toiyabe. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. and six state parks to explore. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. but the rest of the country. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. People and services are scarce. Rocky Mountain elk. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. Department of Defense. In the lowlands. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park.Touring n 167 est Service. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks.
Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. mission-style. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. % 702-751-0821. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. The 22. According to Winona LaDuke. In 1997. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. only winery in Nevada. there’s no competition). % 702-727-5800. 1141 South Highway 160. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. 3810 Winery Road. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. % 702-7270896. % 702-7276900. is the first and.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. On the south end of town in a modern. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . blue and white building. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. It’s also one of the hottest. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. 1771 Sagehen Road. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. authorizing up to 90. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. as of this writing. often overlooked corner of central Nevada.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch.
view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. moorhens. coots. and the second-greatest in all of North America. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. It’s no easy job. coyotes and rabbits.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. HCR 70. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. mallards. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. including ducks. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. however. % 702-372-1131. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. % 702-372-5435. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. prairie falcons. great blue herons. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. then head west for about 20 miles. following the signs to Ash Meadows. Amargosa Valley. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. NV 89020. . and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. for some handmade Mexican food. snipe. inaccessible to the general public. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir.300 spread over 545 square miles. Box 610Z. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. Visitors can. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. whitefaced ibises.
Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. Kelly’s Bottle House. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. three newspapers. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. 50 saloons. the gray. and the old train depot. % 702-5532200. % 702-3725459. HC 70. maps. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. PO Box 6102. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. . Amargosa Valley. 19 hotels.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. NV 89020. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street.000 claims over 30 square miles.000. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. for more information. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. Now recognized as a state historic site.000.
Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. keeping a population of more than 20. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. turn-of-the-century frontier community. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. Once the largest city in the state.000 dizzy with gold fever.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. crystal chandeliers. Local residents were used as models. when the money ran dry. .Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. In the first decade of the 20th century.” a collection of white. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. % 702-553-2424. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. By 1920. however.000. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. life-size. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. constructed in 1908 for $500. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. Today the remains of stone buildings. Goldfield Founded in 1902. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95.
% 702-482-9676. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. however. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. Before heading out. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. including the old post office that is now the local museum.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. % 702482-3558. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. and spend a few hours following its trail. % 702-485-6365. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. built in 1908 and still in use today. 301 Brougher Avenue. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. and east-west-running US 6. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. . the Central Nevada Museum. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce.
Like many Nevada locales. As this is being written. ore bins. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. which total more than 260. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. are available by special request. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. As a judge. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. call % 702-482-5355. In 1911. with Hawthorne the new seat. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. and the 1907 George A. see below under On Foot. Admission is free. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. The museum is open daily. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. For more information. Mineral. power plants. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. including a map room. For more on these wonderful regions. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. A library. photographs and exhibits. Located on the north edge of town. the town exploded – figuratively – and .000 acres. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. which dates to 1906. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. slide show and research facilities. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. Bartlett House. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. 9 AM to 5 PM. which helped put the state on the map.
The museum is open Monday through Friday. below. minerals. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. To see where it all started. The main attraction. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. the town boasted 1. and by 1890 the good times were over. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. Victorian furniture. at the corner of 10th and D streets. % 702-945-5142. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. is nearby Walker Lake. restaurant and Native American gift shop. rocks. Admission is free. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. To reach Candelaria. however. wildlife and fossils. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. (See On Water. Take this road six miles to the town. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. fire and railroad equipment. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne.) Before heading to the lake. just three miles from the California border. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. % 702-945-3266. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. At the zenith of its existence. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. noon to 4 PM in winter. Nevada seat and the Mono . 898 E Street. paved road on the right. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide.000. cameras and photography. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne.000 residents. encircling Hawthorne and its 5.500 people. a combination truck stop. Near the northern tip of the lake. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. The Mineral County Museum.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
The park.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. is open year-round. All of them offer overnight camping. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. From . located in a long. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. set at 5. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. There are 42 campsites. The 2.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. % 702-728-4467. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. Boats are not recommended. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. but travel is not advised during winter months. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater.200 feet. along with many other events. For information on any or all. below). native plants and unique rock formations. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. From Caliente. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. pinyon and juniper forests.
Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. true believers theorize. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes.000. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. There are 37 campsites. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. From Caliente.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. % 702-962-5215. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. for a walking/driving tour map. hazy afternoon. Packed with historic points of interest. All told. Winter travelers might also find snow here. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. government cover-ups. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. they ran up to $1 million.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. men in black and all things conspiratorial. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. The original building costs totaled $16.
selling souvenirs and literature. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. sleeping quarters. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. % 702-729-2515. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. The park is open all year. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. a bar and cemetery. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. a thought scarier than any little green men. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. Ichthyosaurs. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. or fish lizards. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. If you’re in the neighborhood. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. including the old mill. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert.
beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. August. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. The trail climbs nearly 2. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. the highest point in Nevada at 13. turn right. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. Return the way you came. then half a mile east. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. to NV 884. deer.140 feet. June. To reach the park from Hawthorne. call % 702-867-3001. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. July.000 feet in 3½ miles. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. through Gabbs. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. Interpretive tours are held in March. For more information. There are numerous access points to the 115. The trail seems faint at times. Located in the relatively dry. The hike begins on the road. travel west six miles to NV 773.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. October and November. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. April. mountain lion. up through the sparse forest of . From here. where desert bighorn sheep. following a stream into Trail Canyon. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. elk. From here go seven miles to a junction. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada.
the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. Pine Creek. About a mile and a half later.361-foot Arc Dome. pinyon pine and juniper. About 500 yards beyond the mill. the trail gains 1. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. Consult Toms Canyon. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). too. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. where it crosses the water several times. another narrow. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. USGS quads for Carvers NW. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. The 38. . reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek.020-foot Peavine Peak. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. up and up alongside the South Twin River. and at higher elevations.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. The path descends further.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The main trail leads straight ahead.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. nine miles from the trailhead. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. limber pine.
the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. Return the way you came.000 years ago. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. The summit trail. 11. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. . From Tonopah. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. which marks the way to Pine Creek. The high point. It was used as a hunting camp 5. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. going west. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. literally and figuratively. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. In fact. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. deer and coyote. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. which tops out at 11. is imposing Mount Jefferson. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. Turn left and head toward the highest point. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. south. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. mountain lion. is lined with aspen and birch.949 feet above sea level. After turning west.
so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. From the trailhead. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. As you’ll see. so travel with care. The main trail continues straight ahead.856foot Monitor Peak. The 98. The trail first splits at mile three. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. climbing up the creek drainage. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. set aside in 1989. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. Elk. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. To complete a nice loop hike. This is remote. Hikers should have maps and a compass. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. with Dry Lake off to the west. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. and the skills to use them. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves.000 acres. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. rugged country. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake.
half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. 1997. then continue south two miles back to the campground. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Wilderness Press. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. % 702-4826286.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. White’s masterful book. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. in Echo Canyon State Park. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. Enjoy the views. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. . Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. Meanwhile. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. Also close by. Once atop the plateau. refer to Michael C. then descending into Ash Canyon. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. some will lead hikes and photography trips. crosses the water and begins a steep.
) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. 89025. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. Galvin. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain.108 feet. Just beyond the right-of-way. 89045. (If you pass Millers. Mason Valley Guide Service. Round Mountain William A. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. James S. . Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. 27 Smith Gage Road. 89447.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. PO Box 65. Yerington Marty S. PO Box 725. Lund Gary Luisetti. HCR 60. at 9. 89317. Timberline Outfitters. 89049. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. which. unmarked hike to the summit. Moapa Adam R.. Jr. Timberline Outfitters. 8½ miles from US 95. % 702-482-6422. % 702-482-6258. you’ve gone too far. PO Box 1149. Smith. PO Box 168. % 702-465-2598. Mustang Outfitters. The road turns east briefly. leaving a strenuous. % 702-964-1207. Stahl. Lewis. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. climbing into a small valley. Expeditions Unlimited. 89045. % 702-964-2145. 89049. PO Box 162. % 702-463-4497. Roy Lerg. Grand Slam Safaris. Box 77206. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. Howard. turn left and head due south. % 702-283-7797. Berg. 89430. then continues south to a junction. Nicholas Perchetti. PO Box 428. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County.
Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. The Belmont Saloon. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. % 702377-2490. and Pine Creek.000 to construct in 1876. is open for business on weekends. however. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). For road conditions. which was first settled in the 1860s. Manhattan boomed.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. Continuing north. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. known for abundant wildlife. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. Belmont saw most of the 2. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. Just north of Pine Creek. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. A few dozen people still live in the area. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. The other ruins are on private property.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. so keep your distance. % 702-482-6331. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909.
From Pioche. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. stay out.2 mile west of Lockes going south. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. Three hot pools are found on two acres here.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. The springs are half a mile away. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. Wilson National Back Country Byway. Continuing north. For more information contact the BLM. Take an unpaved road . Not only is the water very hot. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. but check on road conditions before you go. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. mountain mahogany and aspen. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. the fauna changes to ponderosa. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. then part of Utah Territory. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. . Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. to establish missions. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. % 702-482-7800. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. Pioneer Territory Mt. As tempting as a bath might seem. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045.
Brookies and cutthroat also abound. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. Two of the best spots are Peavine . but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. At Oakridge Landing. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. % 702289-4865. brown. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. contact the BLM. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. Information Sources For more information and a map. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. 5340 South Oakridge Road. % 702727-4504. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. so take the necessary precautions before heading out.140-foot Boundary Peak. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. 13. % 702-727-8276. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. cutthroat and rainbow trout. Just a mile north of Dyer.
2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. In fact. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground.4 miles). exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts.000 acres. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. April.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. After the road peters out. The lake is named for Joe Walker. October and November. rainbow and brown trout.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. % 702-482-6286. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. however. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. picnic facilities and boat ramp. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). . Fishing derbies are held in February.7 miles north of Hawthorne). contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. Covering 37. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened.
Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. write the group at PO Box 867. largemouth bass and white crappie. Brown trout. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Howe. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. % 702-394-4040. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. CA. which are stocked in spring and fall. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Boaters are welcome. are the main attraction here. % 702-725-3417. while Canada geese. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Contact the refuge office. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. 633 Schley Street.000 acres. % 760-872-2533 . about 13 miles south of the confluence. Hawthorne. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). 93514. NV 89415. Classic Anglers. but motors are prohibited. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. for details. Kathleen L. Bishop.
The big enchilada is Saddle West. PO Box 725. % 702-482-6258. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. 89049. Berg. James S. Nicholas Perchetti. % 702-964-1207. 89447. 89049. Box 77206. PO Box 168. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L ..Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. 1220 South Highway 160. HCR 60. % 702-3721717. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Mason Valley Guide Service. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. Mustang Outfitters. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. Stahl. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Tonopah Stanley R. at least temporarily. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. % 702-964-2145. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. % 702-482-6422. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. 89104. The family-style outings. home on the range. Jr. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. % 702-889-8844. 89045. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. PO Box 65. Timberline Outfitters. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. Suite 9B. Advance reservations are highly suggested. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. Galvin. Howard. PO Box 1149. Timberline Outfitters. 89045.
Highway 160 at Loop Road. % 702-553-2333. a casino with live 21. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. while the inn offers laundry services. A lounge with live entertainment. a restaurant. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. $-$$. 1201 South Highway 160. $-$$. % 702-553-2225. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. % 702-4853431. % 800-508-9493. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. hair salon. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. $-$$. a convenience store.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. % 702-727-5445. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. In short. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. $-$$. though. was built in 1905. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. $-$$. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. $-$$. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. $. Don’t worry. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. . The other two motels are the El Portal. The Exchange Club Motel. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. US 95 at First Street. casino and lounge. There are 60 rooms. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. % 702553-2912. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. lounge. % 702-553-2250. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. With 110 rooms. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. non-smoking rooms and a pool. 420 West Main Street. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. % 702-727-5100. $. has 32 rooms. $-$$. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. 604 Main Street. 9000 North 5th Avenue. along with a pool and honeymoon room. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. which has 30 rooms and a pool. including a heated pool. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. $-$$.
% 702-482-3577. $. also has a pool. $. $. The Jim Butler Motel. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. location. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. 700 Main Street. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. It has 94 rooms. 100 South Main Street. at very reasonable rates. restaurants. $. 1100 Main Street. comes highly rated. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. % 702-482-6202. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. the Butler has 25 rooms. has been catering to travelers since 1943. with 40 rooms. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. The Best Western Desert Lodge. lounge with entertainment. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. % 702-945-2444. $. 521 North Main Street. Dating back to 1908. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. $$. The . 1402 5th Street. two restaurants. % 702-482-3511. Just a block away. $. % 702-945-3352. a casino. % 702-482-6224. workout equipment. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. pool and free in-room coffee. and the 33-room Clown Motel. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. % 702-482-9777. RV hookups. If you’re into chains. $-$$. a heated pool and a small play area. % 702-945-2660. Some of the larger. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. 100 North Main Street. a casino. $$. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. 323 Main Street. 1301 5th Street. Even dogs are welcome. There are 103 rooms. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. RV parking and free continental breakfast. 1 Cliff House Road. with a restaurant.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. $. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. free movies and is close to the convention center. % 702-945-3321. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. 540 F Street. % 702482-5920. arcade and laundry. Location. including four two-bedroom units. 826 Main Street. $. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. which has 93 rooms. has 39 rooms. a restaurant and free coffee. % 702-482-6291. This place has it all: 75 rooms. % 702-482-6238. $. 255 Main Street. a restaurant and bar. Adjacent to Walker Lake. a Jacuzzi and a pool. lounge. and the sprawling Station House.
on the corner of 5th and J streets. 39 North Center Street. % 702-465-2341. Jacuzzi. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. $$-$$$. Just west of Smith in Wellington. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. formerly Players Island. $-$$. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702-346-7444. restaurants. which has 14 rooms. a pool and a hot tub. pool and spa. % 702-465-2573. including dozens of suites. % 702-463-2991. % 702-945-2544. entertainment. with a 24-hour casino. $$. 965 Sierra Highway. a golf course. tennis courts. . and the Rocket. To find a quieter environment. $-$$. movie theater and kids’ play area. 11 North Main Street. RV park and four bungalows. pool. % 800-621-0187.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. $-$$$. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. 694 Sierra Highway. a 925-seat showroom. % 702-463-2998. has five rooms. 720 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-2573. live entertainment. Jacuzzi. family fun center and an airport shuttle. $$-$$$. % 702-945-3316. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. which has two non-smoking rooms. fitness center and live music. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. with blueprints for hundreds more. various restaurants. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. pool. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. has 67 rooms. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. a lounge. $-$$. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. pool and movie theater. Run by the Masini family. a pair of family-style restaurants. % 800-346-4611. has 700 rooms. % 702-945-2143.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. golf course. % 800-346-7721.900 or so residents. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. bowling alley. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. $. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. bars. % 702-463-2481. $$. which at last count had 1. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. Jacuzzi. % 800-896-4567. airport shuttle. $. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. $-$$. The Casa Blanca. $$-$$$. which has 14 rooms. $. 2827 Highway 208. 390 North Sandhill Road. $. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. the Hawthorne. a pool. $$. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. 301 Mesa Boulevard. % 702-465-2959.
also have full-service restaurants. 100 LaCour Street. $-$$. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. At Saddle West Casino. $-$$. % 702-962-5551. 450 Front Street. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. No fast food. . is open 24 hours a day. % 702-751-7777. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372.99. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. the Silver Spur. Rose Garden. % 702-9625404. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. Flying saucer parking is out back. a restaurant and bar. $. % 702-727-7300. % 702-727-7777. has 13 rooms. 1220 South Highway 160. % 702-727-0909. % 702-727-6440. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. % 702726-3777. 884 A Street. % 702-729-2515. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. % 702-727-2404. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. 100 West Stagecoach Road. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. Besides. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. which has five rooms. % 702-726-3106. $. pharmacy and bank. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. $. Stagestop Casino. $. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. and the buffet starts at $2.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. which has 22 rooms. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. % 702-726-3291. and welcomes pets. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. 601 South Highway 160. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard.
540 F Street. % 702-945-3908. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. 348 North Main Street. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. The Exchange Club. % 702-463-2481. 570 E Street. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. 1100 Main Street. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. % 702-945-1700. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. % 702-945-2727. % 702-553-2368. The Station House. 501 I Street. 100 North Main Street. is the home of two restaurants. % 702482-9777. 1291 5th Street. fill the menu. The . 785 E Street. % 800508-9493. 11 North Main Street. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. % 702-482-6202. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. % 702-4823885. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. % 702-945-3321. also have family-style restaurants. Yerington Casino West. % 702-553-2111. Maggies. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. % 702-945-3320. % 702-9452994. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. try Happy Buddha. has a great $7. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. Traditional American and Continental fare. also has a 24-hour café. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. and Burro Inn. % 702-945-5253. including excellent seafood. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. 923 5th Street. % 702-5532225. open until 9 PM. you could do worse than El Marques.
1137 Mesquite Boulevard. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. To reach the campground from Tonopah. Dini’s Luck Club.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. is like a blast from the 50s. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702-463-2054. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. Carl’s Burgers. which serves breakfast. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. along with the usual buffet. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. % 702463-2868. The Virgin River Hotel. 45 North Main Street. % 800-346-7721. satisfying and never-ending. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. lunch and dinner. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. 111 Highway 208. % 702-4623300. 702-726-3138. % 800-896-4567. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. has a 24-hour coffee shop. % 800-621-0187. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. There’s even an indoor workout facility. 11 North ALT 95. % 702-4633707. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. % 702-7263194. Peavine Campground is set at 6. 2281 West Scales Way. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. The Casa Blanca. serves breakfast. The Mason Valley Country Club. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. % 702-727-2314. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. Two blocks up. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers.
The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne.100foot level. the unpaved road goes south briefly. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. contact the BLM. From Tonopah. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. providing access to fishing and hiking. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. % 702-687-6100. see On Foot. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. To reach the campground from Tonopah. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. . There are 11 sites set at 6. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek.800 feet in the Monitor Range. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. For directions. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. From here. There is no running water and no fee. offers sites for $11 per night.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. To reach the campground from Tonopah. % 702-945-3373. above. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. For information. The campground is another three miles away. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness.700 feet. % 702-4826286. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. through Belmont. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites.
1998.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Frank Amato Publications. DeLorme. 1995. David Communications. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. 1995. 1997. 1996. 1993. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. 1997. Basin and Range by John McPhee. 1990. published by the State of Nevada. American Automobile Association. Noonday Press. Falcon Press Publishing. Henry Holt and Company. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. Moon Publishing. Suggested Reading . 1994. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. 1993. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. American Automobile Association. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. Falcon Press Publishing. They are listed in alphabetical order. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley.
1997. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. American & Geographic World Publishing. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Mojave Books. La Siesta Press. Bischoff. White. 1997. Roughing It by Mark Twain. The Globe Pequot Press.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. Gem Guides Book Company. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. 1993. Jr. 1992. Wilderness Press. Stolley. Maturi. . 1995.. 1993. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Falcon Press Publishing. 1997. Clark. Falcon Press Publishing. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. 1969. Legend and Description by David J.
horseback riding. 182-183. 126. 86. 94-95. see transportation Carson City. biking. price scale. 76. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 144. 2. camping. 169-170 Anasazi people. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 131. 187-190. 10-12. touring. 92-96. 186 Belmont. Lovelock Indian Cave. 198. hiking outfit- Index . 13. festivals. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. wagon trips. 200 altitude sickness. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 123 Baker Lake Trail. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 164. 42 burros. restaurants. Las Vegas. 15-16. biking. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 34-35 Boundary Peak. 179. 194. see transportation air tours. camping. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. transportation. 156160. 117-118. 168-169. 137 Candelaria. accommodations. 121. camping. 104. Cottonwood Valley. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 38. Ichthyosaur State Park. hiking. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 152. fishing.183. 54-55. 118. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. Pony Express territory. 177 Angel Lake: camping. see also zoos. hiking. 119-120. events. 193. 132. Pioneer territory. 28. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 194. 115. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 78. 17. touring. 113. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. touring. Las Vegas territory. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 15-16 bird watching. Pioneer territory. 129-130 bungee jumping. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). Reno-Tahoe area. 67-70. 102. camping. Mount Jefferson. 200 Basque people. Bonneville Salt Flats. 67 bowling. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. events. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 77. restaurants. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 118. 193-197. restaurants. touring. 10. 85. 132-133. 32. Leonard Rock Shelter. 199-201. 152. 43-44. 48-49. 46. 26-27 buses. skydiving. pictographs art galleries. 125-128. 174 canoeing. 187-190. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 50-52. Pony Express territory. Las Vegas area. Reno-Tahoe area. 8386. 117. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 199. 183-184. 27. 193 Aurora. 142. 144 backpacking. biking. 181-182 bighorn sheep. restaurants. 41-43. 17. 174-175 Austin. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 182. 184. Pony Express territory. 120-123. 142. 3135. 35. 75-76. 49. 169. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. see also petroglyphs. accommodations. 155 boating. 27 books. 91 Barley Creek. 36. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. camping. 198. 123. see also camping. Reno-Tahoe area. 15-16. 89. 197. 179. 13-15. 187-188 biking. 78 BLM.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. safety rules. specific towns airlines. 103. 104-107. Elko. 146. fishing. Pioneer territory. 135. 163-164. 154 animal life. 29. 144. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. safety rules. wild. 124 auto racing. special events. 117-119. outfitters. see water sports car rental. 185. 115-116 ballooning. 181-182.
Rhyolite. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 4-5 Gardnerville. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 80. 119. Las Vegas area. restaurants. Eberhardt. 160 Goshute Mountains. 74. fishing. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. Pioneer territory. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 29. 186 elk. Metropolis. 142. sport-climbing ratings. 102-104. 43-44. 70. 87 Dayton. 179. 86. accommodations. 119-120. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 137. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. camping. 170. 169. accommodations. 109 Glacier Trail. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. restaurants. see water sports dog-sledding trips. Toquima Cave. 118. 117. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 22. 190-193. 176. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. Candelaria. biking. 89. 120. 37-41. restaurants. Las Vegas area. 4. 35-36. 185. Lehman Caves. 13-15. touring. 125. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 75. transportation. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 175 climate. 131. 174-175. 187-190. 126-127. 188-189 Clemens. 46 Comstock Lode. camping. 137. touring. 83. 157-158. 153 Chimney Springs. 121. 163-164. outfitters. 112. 178. mercury warnings. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 67. camping. 171-172 Gold Point. 179. 176. 79. 108 events: Cowboy country. 172 golf. 82. horseback riding. 3. 152. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. see events fish. restaurants. 14 Colorado River. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 143-144. Treasure City. camping. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 170. 109. 112 Genoa. 70-71. 116. 167. 132-133. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 15-16 Fremont. 139. 106 diving. 149-150. 98 fossils. 194-195. 137. restaurants. 171. Pioneer territory. Lake Tahoe area. Lovelock Indian Cave. 184. 121-122. touring. camping. 185. outfitters. Shermantown. 142 Great Basin. 6-7 ters. 18-19 climbing. 110. Reno-Tahoe area. hiking. 77. 73. hiking. 75. springfish. Midas. 111. 180 Earth Connections. 71 Cottonwood Creek. camping. 150-151. auto racing. 182. 179. 116-117. 122-123. accommodations. 144. 188-189 fishing. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 168. 152-155. touring. 127. John C. 12. 143. 100. 40. camping. special events. hiking outfitters. Dunn Hatchery. 155-156. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 192. outfitters. 124. 174. 120-121. 17. 200 Cowboy Country. 106. 139 cruises. fishing. Reno-Tahoe territory. 98. pupfish. 134-135. 125. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 97. 179. Las Vegas territory. 65 gambling. 161-162. Cowboy country. events. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 109. 88. hiking. Gold Center. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 177. fishing. Jungo. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. camping. fishing.. 190 . 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 95 Ghost Dance Religion.5 Cathedral Gorge. outfitters. 15-16. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. Hamilton. 44-48. 155. Rochester Mining District. Camp Winfield Scott. 12. 138-139. 126. 74 Death Valley National Park. Pony Express territory. 115 Gold Center. 139140 Ely. 109. 112. skiing. touring. Samuel. safety rules. 137. 177. 170-171 Denio Junction. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 78 casinos. 125. 147-148 Eberhardt. 119. Northumberland Cave. 186 Cave Lake State Park.
195-196. 78-79 Jungo. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 93. 132 Lexington Arch. 146. 150. 188-189. map. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 44 Las Vegas territory. outfitters. 47 lakes. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 200-201. air tours. 3536. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 54. restaurants. touring. RenoTahoe territory. 177 mercury warnings. 102. 40. transportation. 32-33 Lake Mohave. 77. see air tours Hemenway Park. Spencer’s Hot Springs. water sports. horseback riding. restaurants. Walley’s Hot Springs. 36. 57-58. camping. 159. touring and transportation. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. Midas Hot Spring. 151. 50-52. 101. touring. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 103 Hamilton. touring. 137 kayaking. fishing. camping. 148-149 jeep tours. 82. 20. state. 163. 45. 80-81 hiking. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 41. 83-84. 118 Lone Mountain. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 37-41. 79. restaurants. biking. 78. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 82. accommodations. 55. outfitters. 111. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 179 Kingston. 24. 119 Index . 140-141 land. 60. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 90. boating outfitters. transportation. 37-40. 52-53. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. transportation. 158. 110-112. 150. 13-15. 48. 116-117. biking. camping. Las Vegas. 98. touring. 64. 86. 112-117. 181-187. 166. hiking. 90 helicopter tours. 83. 47. restaurants. 160. hiking. 149. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 107. Reno-Tahoe territory. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 130. 88. 187 Manhattan. 127. 46. Las Vegas area. touring. 164. Las Vegas territory. Pony Express territory. 21-22. 39. 29-31. 65. 41-43. 64. 162. 43. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 129-131. 149-150. skiing. 1. Reno. snow sports outfitters. 118. 53-54. 162. description of. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 66. Pioneer territory. 198. 46. 145-150. hiking. 152. 46. fishing. 4WD trail. 63-66. Pioneer territory. 186-187. restaurants. skiing. events. 99-100. 23-29. 125. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 117 hotels. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. camping. camping. 91-92. Pony Express territory. touring. Nevada. 31-35. 57. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. camping. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 91 information sources. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. Pioneer territory. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 62. 49-50. touring. 48-49. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 106.Index Great Basin National Park. 32 horseback riding. hiking. restaurants. Reno-Tahoe territory. 192. 176. hiking outfitters. 165-167. watersports. 83. balloning and soaring. special events. 120 Incline Village. camping. events. Pony Express territory. Kyle Hot Spring. 39 history: Cowboy country. 193. 148-149 Humboldt River. camping. 141-142. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 28. 156. outfitters. Cowboy country. 75. 40-41. 38. Las Vegas territory. 153. hiking outfitters. 32-33.
171. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 69. see biking Mount Charleston. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 68. 72. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 86. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 26. 163. 33. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 139. 29. 200 motels. 177. Lyon County Muserum. 61. 69. 2. 174. Humbolt Museum. 113 Mount Rose: camping. Roberts House Museum. 61. 167-168 Paiutes. 61 music and theater. fishing. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. fishing. 35. 199. 43. restaurants. 25. touring. 91. camping. 71. 107. 193-194. see accommodations motorcycles. 197-198. Capitol Building and Museum. 142 Midas. 135. 32. 174. see biking mountain biking. Wilbur D. 108. 70. 173. 69. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 73. touring. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. May Museum and Arboretum. Gold Well Open Air Museum. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 196197. 199 Metropolis. 26. 133. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. Fleischmann Planetarium. Marzen House Museum. 175. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. Nevada Historical Society. 8. hiking. Mineral County Museum. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 189-190 Muir. 31. Beam Fine Art Gallery. Guinness World of Records Museum. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 68. 10. fishing. Desert Valley Museum. Nevada State Library & Archives. 11 Mosquito Creek. 79. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 181 Moapa. Clark County Heritage Museum. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 134 petroglyphs. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. camping. 173. 127 pictographs. 70-71 mines and mining. National Automobile Museum. 4. 72-73. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 174. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 61. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 107. 80-81 Native American festivals.206 n Index seum. 180 Minden: events. Las Vegas Art Museum. 183. 23 Overton: touring. 25. skiing and snowboarding. 61. 23. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. Liberace Museum. 3-4. 68. hiking outfitters. 67. Stewart Indian Museum. 153. 71. 78. 200. 126. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 175. 106 nuclear testing. accommodations. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 165 nuclear waste. 8182 Mesquite. John. 103. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 25. 73. 25-26. 34. 4. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 199-200. White Pine Public Museum. 34. Keck Minerals Museum. 178. 26. Lost City Museum. 69. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. Central Nevada Museum. Marshall Mint Museum. 73. 2. 69. The Way It Was Museum. 171. 139. 187 Mojave Desert. 25. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 177. Virginia & Truckee Depot. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 102. 83. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 43. 158. Brewery Arts Center. 135136. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 188. restaurants. 109-110. outfitters. 98. The Castle. 177. hiking. Mark Twain Museum. 142. touring. 75. 25. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 73. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. Colorado River Museum. 29 Mount Jefferson. Nevada State Mu- . horseback riding. 153 Northumberland Cave. 73. 77. 71. Piper’s Opera House. 173. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 170. 34. 165. 26. 2. Western Folklife Center. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 109. 34.
197. 9697. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. touring. camping. snow sports outfitters. 52 pupfish. 74 races. 146-147. 77-78. 79. 91. 88 Shermantown. 65 Pony Express territory. touring. 200 temperature chart. 185-186. Pony Express territory. 9 Sand Mountain. 123-125. 193. 106 Spooner Lake. water sports. 176 rodeos. 53-54. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 165-201 plant life. 66. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 98. Pioneer territory. motorcycle. 163-164. biking. 197 rafting. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 193. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 115. 82. 160-163. 42. 17. 36. 89. 142. 163. 114-115 theater. 190. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 59-61. 138 rock climbing. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 90 sport climbing. 106 Siegel. 80 pronghorn antelope. 187. camping. 144. camping. 76. 109 Shoshone people. biking. 54. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 197-199. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. horse. restaurants. 9-10. 143. 117. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 93-94. 146. 94 special events. outfitters. fishing. touring. RenoTahoe area. 48-49 snowboarding. 153 Sparks. 98. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. biking. 89-91 skydiving. 88. camping. 85. 17. hiking. 134. special events. 54. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 163. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 84-85 swimming. hiking. auto. 96-97. Las Vegas area.” 4 silver. skiing. accommodations. see events price codes. 195. see climbing rock hunting. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 17. bike. Las Vegas territory. 154. 181. 150-151. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. fishing. 87. 144. 49-50. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 77. accommodations. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 144. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. Reno-Tahoe area. hiking and climbing. 12. 198. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 156. 76. hiking. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). fishing. skiing. 129-130. 186-187. 180 Pioneer territory. 88 Star Peak: hiking. fishing. 26-27. see events Round House Art Gallery. Benjamin “Bugsy. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 76. 92-93. 145-146 prostitution. 90 soaring.Index Pioche: accommodations. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 78. 173 Index . 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 170 rivers. see mines and mining skiing. 104. touring. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. fishing. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. restaurants. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 180. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. climbing and hiking. 78. 179. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. camping. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 113. 143 Rachel. 179 Searchlight. hiking. 17. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 112. see climbing springfish. see skiing snowmobiling. 83-84. transportation. 167. 13 Price Lakes. 169 Pyramid Lake. 84. restaurants. 79-80.
135-137. 185. hiking outfitters. 66. 75. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. hiking outfitters. 176 wineries. camping. 80. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. hiking. restaurants. 35. 150. 62. 157. 20. Pony Express territory. 71-74 Virgin River. 176. 80-81. touring. 89. 156-157. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. Goshute Mountains. 163-164. see transportation transportation: airports. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. Lake Mead. 164. Amtrak. 172. 39 vineyards. Arc Dome Wilderness. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 192. 119-120. camping. 111. 62. 127. 190-193. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. fishing. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. fishing. 183-184. 177. 191-192. Cleve Creek Campground. 143. 67. 76. 44-48. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 191 UFOs. touring. 33. 150. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 196. restaurants. restaurants. 32. 199. touring. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 151 Wilson Canyon. 187. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. events. touring. 144. Ruby Marsh. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 134 Twain. 102. Earth Connections. 104. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 155 . 168 zoos. 155. wildlife and bird watching. 139. Table Mountain Wilderness. events. 143. 25 Topaz Lake. water sports. 83. Jack’s Valley Road. 109 trees. 153-154. 193. 26-27. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. restaurants. 31. 61. 85. 163. 149. 188-189. 62. 145-146. 139-140 Treasure City. 117. 144. 98. Walker Lake. camping. High Rock Canyon. buses. 193 Walker Lake. 29. 79-80. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 106 trains. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. hiking. 174 walking. 55. 182-183. Santa Rosa Mountains. 167. outfitters. 160-161. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 162. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 152-155. 179. 159. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. special events. 71. Reno-Tahoe territory. 41. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 112. Ruby Mountains. 86 Wells: accommodations. restaurants. 110. 68. climbing and hiking. 151 Wovoka. horseback riding. hiking. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 159-160. Hemenway Park. 34-35. Las Vegas territory. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 45. 178. see plant life tufas. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. camping. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 31. 73. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 168-169. camping. 127. events. Winnemucca. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 97. 117 Toquima Cave. Mark. camping. 200-201. 147-148. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 29-30. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 176 Yerington: accommodations. 38. 77-78. outfitters. Pioneer territory. touring. 155. 146. rental cars. 30-31. 95. 174. Echo Canyon State Park. Pioneer territory. touring. outfitters. Wilson Canyon.