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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
In fact. pausing on . plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. giant sloths. About 27 million of them. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. however. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. These mammoths. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. Florida. half-pound hot dogs. you can have the whole wild. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do.” and for good reason. you’ll know better. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. According to author John Hart. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. as the top tourism destination in the US.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. that’s good news. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile.500 and 10. In fact. bison. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. Among the 50 states. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. which covers most of Nevada. horses. For anyone who loves the outdoors.
A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. shells. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. His party wintered in California. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. points. The Northern Paiutes. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. fish hooks. however. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. hand tools. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. the first European entered Nevada. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Many prime archeological sites. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. wetlands and springs. followed in Garces’ footsteps. Jedediah Smith. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. . By about 500 AD. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. In the 12th century. In 1776. established trade routes. In the south. including southern Nevada. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. Exactly 50 years later. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest.
Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country.History n 3 In the north. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. In 1843 and ’44. with Brigham Young as governor. DC. then returned east along the route the next year. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. In 1849. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. dominated by the church. In 1845. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. By 1857. swelling the population well into five figures. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. as it came to be called. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. but the Utah Territory government. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. The Comstock Lode. Fremont. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. covering most of Utah and Nevada. but abandoned it two years later. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. In 1833. and headed over the Sierras. continued to oversee Nevada. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. was dispatched to map the area. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. the Mormons were the first white residents. which helped open the gateway to the West. In 1859. Introduction . 1864. who would later become a war hero. In 1830. John C. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. and. encountering Pyramid Lake. Eight years later the first wagon train. Nevada became a state on Halloween. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. camping at Las Vegas. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. the church established the State of Deseret. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm.
commerce and industry. then picked up again in the early 1900s. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. began making money and the boom was on. In 1874. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. Siegel’s vision. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. later known as the Nevada Test Site. bringing town sites. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. the mother of all lodes. killed two-thirds of them. violence escalated. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. In the teens and ’20s. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. In 1873. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall.000 people in 1960. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. In 1855. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. Howard Hughes sud- . was of a classy. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. but was ambushed. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. the Big Bonanza. chief of the Northern Paiutes. Then in 1966. Carson City. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. Reno and the surrounding areas. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. Meanwhile. then underground tests for 30 more. the first true hotel-casino. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. Warriors under Numaga. Ironically. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. Streets were laid out. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. signed a treaty with the federal government. the Flamingo soon reopened. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. son of Winnemucca. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. particularly in southern Nevada. upscale Vegas. Winnemucca. was struck in Virginia City. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. opened in 1950. however. In 1860. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time.
working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. today there are master-planned communities. But the explosion has not been without fallout. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. places like Elko. and Americans have become moths to the flame. Winnemucca. How much is too much. are reaping the windfall. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. miners. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. This time. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. . who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. The entire West will be watching what transpires.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. By 1970. DC. a land dominated by a mobile population. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. trappers. find enough water. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. moving to the region in record numbers. Fallon and Mesquite. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. Mom and their 2. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. To many. however.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax.
Depending on who’s counting. with nine ranges topping 11. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. the Carson and the Humboldt. then disappear into their respective “sinks. On the other side of the state. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. The roof of Nevada is 13.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run.000 feet. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. reservoirs and other watery bodies.839foot Matterhorn. lakes. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada.000 feet in the space of a few miles. gurgle through the northern part of the state. Here. dry. down a range. hills and uplands. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. Nevada even has its own 10. The Colorado River . Two of Nevada’s longest rivers.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. The notion of Nevada as a flat. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. Yes. then up another range. In the north. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. Wheeler Peak. Named by explorer John C. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. Fremont in 1844.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. towers over Great Basin National Park. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. down another range. across a sagebrush-covered basin. Near Las Vegas. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range.000 feet to nearly 12. and so on. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. 13.063 feet. Get the idea? After all.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. In fact. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches.
In the 1970s. are the only reliable. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. the largest alpine lake in North America.000 years ago covered 8. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . establishing 77. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. it’s an uphill climb all the way. In 1989. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. most notably Lake Tahoe. in the remote north near Jarbidge.000 acres.000-acre Great Basin National Park. For the greens. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. a great inland sea that 50. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. Lower and drier. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. only 65. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. the southeastern corner of Nevada.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. natural sources of running water. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan.500 square miles of western Nevada. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada.
The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. the soil supports . such as rabbitbrush.000 and 8. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). At elevations above 6. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. The squat Utah juniper. Apart from aspens. Death Valley.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. horsebrush and shadescale. is generally found throughout the state between 5. 14 national recreation areas. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. greasewood.000 feet above sea level. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. Still. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. with its tiny. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. The recommendations have been under review for years. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park.000 feet.
including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. western white pine. creosote bush has an oily. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. willow and dogwood. Black bears. the mountain lion. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. prickly pear. Above the desert floor. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . bristlecone pine. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. up to 5. In the mountains. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. however. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. ponderosa pine. along with alder. or jimson weed. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. hedgehog and barrel. At the other extreme. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. The rare. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. The king of Great Basin vegetation.000 feet. hallucinogenic sacred datura.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. Washoe pine.000 years. the official state grass. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. which is actually a type of yucca. blooms by night here. which make up just 1% of the land. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. The Joshua tree. lodgepole pine.
horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. weasel. help comes from hunters. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. golden and Dolly Varden . The desert bighorn sheep. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. brook. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. Trout are the favorite of anglers. In the air over the desert. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. also live in the Mojave. burrowing owl and canyon wren. brown. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. Ironically. the black widow and brown recluse. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. while mule deer are abundant. Gambel’s quail. Snakes include several types of rattlers. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. with Lahontan cutthroat. skunk. pika. greater roadrunner. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. beaver. fox. redtailed hawk. prairie falcon. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. Blacktail jackrabbits. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. kangaroo rats. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. chuckwalla. America’s two poisonous spiders. rainbow. badger. coyote. Meanwhile. seen on Nevada’s license plates.
Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- .How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. on land. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. Cowboy Country. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. covering its history. culture and most attractive features. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. like almost every other Nevada visitor. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. broken down by specific locales. A section on Touring follows. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. such as visitors bureaus. on water. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. on snow and in the air. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. This section also includes sources for expert information. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. Along with detailed information on where to go. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. Reno-Tahoe Territory. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies.
The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. forethought and patience. . . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . . . . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . . . . . . . $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . . . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. .12 n Introduction ing chart. . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. Trails may be gone. . Finally. . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . $50 to $100 $$$ . . . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . . Hiking. Backpacking. . . . . . . . . . Up to $50 per day $$ . .
Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb.14 (and sometimes beyond). The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible.Boulder hopping.0 to .Adventures n 13 Finally. known as the Yosemite Decimal System. the most popular among serious rock climbers. occasionally using hands Class 4 . ranging from . As this guide goes to press. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 .Easy hiking. the lower numbers (. For Class 5 routes. Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 .Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . so help is usually a long way away. . The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. using the hands.0 to .Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 . it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. Class 2 . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.Climbing. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada.
and the weather when determining the safest course of action. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. In the arid country of Nevada. climbing partners. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Don’t travel alone. legend. use common sense before you get into trouble. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. dehydration and lightning. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. Begin hiking early in the day. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. until all holds disappear at . By their nature. taking into account personal experience. Storms are more common in the afternoon. climbers enter the realm of myth. Give them descriptions of yourself. not hard-and-fast rules. then amended by subsequent climbers. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. clothing. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. n n n n n .14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. Beyond that. As with all outdoor activities. Pack spare everything – food. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. Be aware of conditions. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale.10. Assistance can take hours or days. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. If the plan changes. Always take fresh water with you.
water and fluids. high-clearance job. Not one of those trendy. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. Carry an inflated spare tire or two.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. . but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. spare belts. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. but a powerful. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. Arizona. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. tools. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. jack. four-wheel-drive vehicle. extra gas. preferably one with a large gas tank. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition.
PO Box 39340. leave a note telling searchers who you are. left out of popular literature. contact DARES. Phoenix. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. in wilderness areas). For more information on desert survival. when you left and where you are headed. Mountain biking in Nevada. is more popular than ever. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. stay on it. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. drink it as needed. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. however. n If you have water. The rest of Nevada. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. 85096. minimize talking and eating. Do not ration water. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. AZ. n If you find a traveled road. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. . Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. stay put. n If water is in limited supply. of course.
Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. And where there are tourists. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Skydiving. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. lakes and reservoirs. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. Fishing. Soaring Where there is Vegas. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. but take extra care. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Many streams. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. there are all types of sky-high adventures. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. the gem of the Sierras. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. there are tourists. and gigantic Lake Mead. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Ballooning. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. At these higher elevations. Meanwhile.
although they can occur at any time of year. Summer and early fall can be blistering. Flashfloods are the predictable result. For those who like to watch. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. temperatures above 110° are common. . In the Great Basin. throwing rain. If thunderstorms threaten.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. Laughlin. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. Leave the high altitudes as well. but despite the obvious danger. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. on the Colorado River. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. get out of lowlying areas. These storms are known to appear with little warning. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state.
% 801-625-5182. % 702-687-4219. Intermountain Region. In southern Nevada. Carson City. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. For information on specific locales.com. US Forest Service. 850 Harvard Way. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. . basin winters can be chilly. 1100 Valley Road. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. Carson City. 324 25th Street. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. UT. % 702234-7331. Bureau of Land Management. NV 89710. Nevada Commission on Tourism. rainy and occasionally snowy. Capitol Complex. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. NV 89703. NV 89520. Great Basin National Park. too. In the mountains. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. Carson City. NV 89311. 84401. Nevada Department of Transportation. 1263 South Stewart Street.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. Nevada Division of Wildlife. % 702-785-6500. % 702-687-4384. Reno. www. NV 89502. Reno. % 702-688-1500. see the listings that accompany each chapter. Nevada Division of State Parks. NV 89712. windy. Ogden. Baker. % 800-NEVADA-8. 1300 South Curry Street. In the north.travelnevada.
or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city.000-year-old petroglyphs. lounge shows – and recently. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. both prehistoric and otherwise. closer.000-foot peak. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. . and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. in plain view of the casinos. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. cheap food. Inside the city limits.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. try hiking to an 11. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
but no less extravagant.95 for adults. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. features work by students. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. % 702-895-3381. 1 PM to 5 PM. 8 AM to 5 PM. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. Southeast of the Strip. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. % 702-895-3011. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. faculty and invited artists. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. Sunday. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. is the Liberace Museum. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. % 702-895-3893. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. actual cosmopolitan. Yes. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . Seasonal streams. % 702-798-5595. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages.95 for seniors and students. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. giant. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. Just off the glittering Strip. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM.50 for seniors. The museum is open Monday through Friday. 10 AM to 5 PM. 9 AM to 9 PM. Showmanship.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. $3. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. call % 702-895-3801. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. The tax-deductible admission is $6. $4. Dedicated to Mr.95 for adults. Admission is $4. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. Ham Concert Hall. % 702-363-1921.
under Adventures on Foot. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. 5 PM in the winter. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. Today there is a restaurant. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. 7 AM to dusk. the road to Mt. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. wife of a German munitions tycoon. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. Admission is $4. With structures dating back to 1864. Back on US 95. (See below. The park is open daily. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. 8 AM to 11 PM.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. 8 AM to sunset. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. % 702-486-5413. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). % 702-875-4191. % 702-875-4141. trail rides and a “real” Western town. The admission is $5 per vehicle.) The best time to take the 13-mile. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. The park is open daily. one-way loop drive is early morning. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. petting zoo. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 8 AM to 5 PM. The park is open daily. The restaurant and bar are open daily. later during summer months. have been unearthed here. Charleston. saloon.
(See below. In the winter. % 702-872-7098. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. 17-mile. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside.) After the hike. % 702-646-3401. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. (See below. the Mt.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. Charleston Hotel. At the northern edge of the reservation. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48.) . may be spotted near water sources during the summer. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. under Adventures and Camping. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. Bighorn sheep. under Camping. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. completing the Mt. % 702-872-5408. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. elevation 11. (See below. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds.918 feet. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. desolate valley. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. % 702385-2SKI. (See below. and its 1.) Pitch a tent. see below under On Snow. % 702-872-5500. under On Foot. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. Nevada’s state animal. Charleston Lodge. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. The 1. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey.000 vertical feet of runs. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. Charleston Loop. under On Wheels. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. 2 Kyle Canyon Road.
% 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines.
% 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-GO-VALUE .30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental.
Call % 800USA-RAIL. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. $1 for seniors and children under 16. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Did it work? Judge for yourself.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. % 702-455-7955. 1830 South Boulder Highway. 3150 Paradise Road.50 for adults. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. . Gray Line Tours. On the north side of Boulder City. % 800-332-5333. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. 711 East Desert Inn Road. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. % 702-735-1616. NV 89109. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. 444 Hotel Plaza. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. NV 89109. The museum is open daily. stopping downtown. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. % 702-294-1888. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. Admission is $1. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas.
Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. 89005. % 702-293-8907. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. 500 South Boulder Highway. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. fishing. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. Las Vegans. head back toward Boulder City. Children under 10 are free. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. % 702-293-2034. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. (See On Water below. boating and diving. % 702-565-8591.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. and 45 feet thick at the top. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. Hoover also created Lake Mead. $2. The cost is $5 for adults. Hoover Dam took 5. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. 89105. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. for information on camping. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. Phoenix and Los Angeles. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. 660 thick at the base. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. All of 726 feet high.) Be sure to heed the . swimming.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. 100 Nevada Highway.
Just beyond the bay. . go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. % 702-293-6180. % 702-397-2088. thank you. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. Beyond here.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). Go straight to reach Henderson. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. Back on Nevada 167. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). a public swimming and boating area.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. explain the geology and forces of erosion. which rests on the Virgin River. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. The displays in the visitor center. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. nearly five miles off the highway. From the visitor center. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks.
Nevada’s record-high temperature. % 520-754-3272. Named for a brand of matches. % 702-297-1464. % 520-754-3628. East of Searchlight 14 miles. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. with motel. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. South of here is camping. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. see below. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. Arizona. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. % 702-297-1682. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. % 520-754-4606. (For details on all three. on Lake Mojave.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. 355 Highway 95. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. constructed his Riverside Casino. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. 9 AM to 5 PM. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park.000 visitors a month.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. Saturday. relives those days. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. 125°. in Bullhead City. % 800-46-4584 . % 520-754-3399. 9 AM to 1 PM. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. a campground and marina. Admission is a $1 donation. the town was a gold. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. The museum is open Monday through Friday. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. under Adventures. bar and bait shop. campground and fishing and swimming spots.
% 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. % 800-227-5254. as many as 6. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. In Laughlin. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. % 310-448-1822.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. host- . % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. % 800-736-6247 United Express.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. % 702-876-3380. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 800-227-5245. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 702-798-6405. % 800-331-1212 Budget. May is the busiest month. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. 1555 South Casino Drive. Special Events February In February.
floats into Laughlin. Another balloon festival. Navaho and Mojave peoples. a three-day balloon rally. % 702-898-6565. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. . % 702-2939256. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. Later in the month. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. takes place in Vegas. % 702-8953900. % 800-227-5245. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-457-2797. August In August. also takes place in October. % 800-637-1006. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. % 702-870-1221. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. % 702-4541212. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. to downtown. % 702-293-4857.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. % 702-631-7000. to the campus of UNLV. % 702434-0848. blows in. % 702-457-5775. the Parade of Lights. % 702687-5777. a confluence of Southern Paiute. % 702-293-2034. to the waters of Lake Mead. the International Black Heritage Festival. October Art in the Park. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. take place in Boulder City. to town. and the National Finals Rodeo. % 702-293-1611. % 702-452-8066. % 702-386-3926. the Las Vegas Classic.
8). Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5.9).10) and Bighorn Buttress (5.12a). is to mountain bikers.11). Sheep Trail (5. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon.9) has 1. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year.11+). Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains.11). To the west. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer.11b). At nearby Willow Springs. Stratocaster (5. Chicken Eruptus (5. At the end of a 90-minute approach.11). The Choad Warrior (5. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. in fact. especially in winter months. Red Rock attracts free climbers. Other routes in- . Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. Crimson Chrysalis (5. so take extra precautions when adventuring here.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. so chalk often stays put for months. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.11d) offers more advanced routes. Graveyard Waltz (5. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. Utah. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry.
Volume 1 by John Harlin III. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area.918 feet. The trail switchbacks time and again. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. Following the fork. The South Loop Trail. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. page 41. an easy six-mile round-trip. At the aforementioned fork. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement.6). elevation 11. gaining 3. ending at a small dam and the spring.12). Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. 17 miles round-trip. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles.10 or 5. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley.000 feet. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. published by the American Alpine Club. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. & For more information. consult the Bible of local climbers. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. toward a ridge at 11. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. Chockstone Press. Rainbow Buttress (5.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. to savor the 300-mile views.000 feet. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. About seven miles from the visitor center. See Outfitters. The 3. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157.000 feet in four miles. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. . The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads.8) and Eagle Dance (5.
contact the US Forest Service. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. covering two miles and gaining 1.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. .500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls.000 feet into the northeastern sky. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. gaining 1. For trail information and weather and safety updates. To the northwest. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center.4 miles. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south.000 feet above the desert. At lower elevations. Beginning on a dirt road. Mountain T Ranch. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. the trail climbs 1. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle.000 feet to a saddle. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. thunderstorms and snow. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. Never take these altitudes lightly. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes.
3065 East Patrick Avenue. outlines the easiest route. climb a gully to reach a ridge. which is marked by a post. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. % 702-223-2176. Las Vegas. Suite 4. Las Vegas. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. heading for the northernmost outcropping. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. 89124. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. % 702-254-5604.2 miles. % 702-434-3388. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. 89137. turn right. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. HCR 33. Bruce Grubbs. Stay below the northern peaks. 89180. and park at the end of the road. ascending northwest. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. Falcon Press Publishing. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. then go northwest to another plateau. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. Rocky Trails. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. PO Box 1. PO Box 80875. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. % 888-86ROCKY. Just south of this outcrop.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Climb northward up the slope. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. . From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. % 702-596-2953. Las Vegas 89117. go 6. PO Box 371324. Sports & Adventure Tours. % 702-364-8687.
can arrange a covered wagon trip. 4065 East Patrick Lane. 617 Hoover Avenue. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . Hahn’s World of Surplus. % 702-798-6565. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. % 702387-2457. % 702-875-1978. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. Armed . Las Vegas. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. % 702-254-1143. % 702-649-6819. % 702-383-0838. however.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. Wagons West. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. At mile post 17. Silver State Old West Tours. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. Peak Sports. PO Box 19210.6 mile to a dirt road. % 702362-7177. % 702-2567433. Desert Outfitting. 89132. % 702-458-8870. % 702-252-7114. Desert Rock Sports. Cowboy Trail Rides. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard.
NV 89126. For a more challenging excursion. After beginning another climb. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. scanning for a cairn on the left. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. Turn right. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. PO Box 26589. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. Head downhill. and pump uphill. a six-mile loop. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. heading uphill. before heading out. . Ride until you see a cairn on the left. turn left to another intersection and turn right. At the road. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. make a quick right and head downhill. For a tamer road trip. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. Go left here. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. % 702-647-5000. Take this until you reach a double track. Turn right. Las Vegas. zoom downhill to the fork. A double track soon appears on the right. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. contact the Bureau of Land Management. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. go to the next intersection. flying downhill and then up to another road. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. 4765 Vegas Drive.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). turn right.
% 702-596-2953. % 702-876-8687. Escape the City Streets. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. Las Vegas Bikes USA. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-8978287. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. % 702-646-3401. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. Ski Chalet. % 702-252-8077. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. Turn left to return to US 15. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. . rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. Downhill Bicycle Tours. % 702-642-2453. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. At about the 10-mile mark. 7934 Cadenza Lane. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. R&R Cycling. 16 Cottonwood Drive. the byway forks. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. % 702-451-9586. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally.
of all places. 4765 West Vegas Drive. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. Old West Territory Tours. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. contact the Las Vegas BLM office.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. an avid angler for more than 50 years. % 888-REELRIO. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. 89101. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. . 3700 Flamingo Road. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. 2810 South Highland Drive. % 702-646-8800. % 702-796-9355. For details. 8 AM to 11 AM. crystal-clear hotel pool. Rebel Adventure Tours. is on the premises. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. % 702-380-6969. Las Vegas. Suite B. maps and more information on backcountry byways. 713 East Ogden Street. It begins. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. % 702-454-5555. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment.
visit Divers’ Discount Supply.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). The expert staff is available seven days a week. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. % 800-34-SCUBA. Off Nevada 167. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. largemouth bass and trout. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. (See below. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. For details.) Swimming. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. meals and overnight lodging for $449. offering professional advice. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). Boulder Beach.500-acre ranch in Utah. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. powerboats and cruisers. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. about three miles across at its widest point. Thomas. flows into Lake Mead. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. and two. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. % 800-2555561. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. under Boating Outfitters. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. jet skiing. . Forever Resorts. water skiing. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. instruction and gear. rents houseboats. peregrine falcons and even flamingos.to three-days notice is required.
% 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. % 702-2931190. PO Box 100. offers trips from January through November. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. 322 Lake Shore Road. % 702-252-7114. 89006. Calville Bay Resort. Return transportation is provided by bus. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. Near Laughlin. HCR 30. 89102. Las Vegas. Lake Mead Cruises. The cost is about $65 per person. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. % 702-293-6180. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. particularly near cliffs. . % 702-754-3245. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. 89124. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. is the local fishing and boating hub. Lake Mojave Farther south. PO Box 61235. PO Box 62465. 89006. Las Vegas. % 702-565-8958. % 800-696-RAFT. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company.
Laughlin. 4290 Boulder Highway. 89040. % 702-452-8299. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702-3944000. % 702-388-1022. 89040. Bullhead City. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. Sunset Bait & Tackle. PO Box 29279. Overton Beach Marina. % 702-437-9283. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. % 702-564-5660. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. 520-758-6242. Clearwater Flyfishing. Fiesta Queen Cruises. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. PO Box 29279. % 800-228-9825. Overton. AZ. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. % 702-5659111. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702297-1464. % 702565-0696. . Overton. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. 89029. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. Laughlin River Tours. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. % 702-433-3263. Tom’s Water Skiing. % 702-459-2080. 89028. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. 1450 Newberry Drive.
held every October at Silver Bowl Park.J. 1500 Palomino Drive. Henderson Bill Spellman.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. citing growing noise problems. Saturday until midnight. % 702-5657583. Jim Goff. % 702-871-1399. Arizona and Zion. . noon to 9 PM. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. A jump is $59. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. % 702-385-4321. 161 East Rancho Drive. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. 68 Mallory Road. complete with guided ground tours and meals. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. HB Fishing Guide Service. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. Karen Jones. % 702-565-8396. % 702-434-0848. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. Even more memorable. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. 810 Circus Circus Drive. The company claims more than 500. 3800. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Utah. Hackett Bungy. however. % 702-564-1558. ext. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. With commercial balloon tours. % 702-451-4004.
Set at a base elevation of 8. #115-200. % 702-877-1010. Las Vegas. Eagle Canyon Airlines. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. Scenic Airlines. NV 89019. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Heli USA. % 800-535-4448. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. Boulder City. 806 Buchanan Street. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Air Vegas Airlines. 89005. % 800-216-8330. Sundance Helicopters. 200 Convention Center Drive. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. % 800-634-6851. Jean. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. % 800-359-8727.ultimateballoonadven. % 702-385-2SKI. NV 89117. % 800-255-7474. PO Box 19629. 806 Buchanan Street. King Airelines. Las Vegas Airlines. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. % 800-446-4584. 2705 Airport Drive. D&R Balloons.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. % 702-293-1860. 241 East Reno Avenue. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. 89109. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving.com. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. % 702-736-0013. % 800-634-6377. Jean Airport. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. Las Vegas. 3275 Rosanna Street. Las Vegas Skydiving Center.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. % 702-221-9199. Skydive Las Vegas. Web site www.
getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. For more serious snow. The place was once part-owned by in- . The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. if possible. Above all. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. it seems. even behemoths like the 5. % 702-646-0008.000-room MGM Grand.000 visitors. 2395 North Rancho Road. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. But somehow. $-$$. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. After all. HO TE L Many hotels. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. % 800-272-7426. over 100. $-$$$. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. 18 East Fremont Street.000 techies to Sin City. % 702-385-1664.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. % 702-385-5200. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. All they do is take up space. are booked solid on weekends. luring 200. 600 East Fremont Street.
South of here. the Flamingo. % 702-791-7171. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. The movie Rainman was shot here. $-$$. $$-$$$$. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. % 702-3821600. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. $$-$$$. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. however. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. The Mirage. the young upstarts. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. is a crowd-pleaser. % 702-894-7111. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. 128 East Fremont Street. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. New York. 129 East Fremont Street. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . $$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. % 702-732-5111. 202 East Fremont Street. 1 Main Street. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. $-$$. who built the first casino resort. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. If staring at wealth is your thing. way out there. The faux volcano. Even by Vegas standards. New York. Down the street. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. % 702-386-2110.037 rooms. Next door is the Island’s big sister. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. across from the Fashion Show Mall. New York is out there. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. dominate the Strip. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. $$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. Caesars Palace.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. Across the street is the green giant. $$$-$$$$. has 1. % 702-385-7111. The Golden Nugget. Monte Carlo. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. The Four Queens. $$$$$. % 702-731-7110. and New York. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. % 702-740-NYNY. % 702-385-4011. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3000 Paradise Road. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. % 702-740-NYNY. the MGM Grand. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back.
prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. three Motel 6s. which eliminates Reno. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. % 702-872-5500. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. contrary to popular belief. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. Bonnie Springs Motel. % 702-872-5408. . None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. $$-$$$$. too. while Bellagio will boast 3. contact the Chamber of Commerce. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. TIP Laughlin For the most part. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. $-$$$. % 702-262-4555.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. % 702-875-4400. $-$$.000 visitors a month and climbing. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. $$-$$$$. In the Spring Mountains.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. % 800-634-3988. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. but don’t count on that for long. On the outskirts of Vegas. has 2. set at 7.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. the Mt. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Charleston Hotel. positively sedate with its 5. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. At this book goes to press.500 rooms. Charleston Resort. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. % 702-735-1616.000.
Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. however. $$$$. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. $-$$. 1650 Casino Drive. has 1. % 702-891-7374. Andre’s. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. 2900 South Casino Drive. Café Michelle. The Edgewater. 1350 East Flamingo Road. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. while the Golden Nugget. Nearby. serves upscale Italian fare. Downtown at the Four Queens. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. both at the MGM Grand. % 702735-8686. % 702-385-5016. Hamada. offers 2. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. The Ramada Express. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. sports a railroad theme. the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-298-4000. At the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-891-7337.500 rooms. 3700 West Flamingo Road. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. % 702-733-3111. To really dine UPtown. % 702-298-5111. % 702-732-5111.000 rooms. An excellent buffet. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . % 702-298-4600.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. % 702-252-7777. 2100 South Casino Drive. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. 2300 South Casino Drive. $-$$$. Andiamo. and Harrah’s. Eurasian mélange. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. 2121 South Casino Drive. % 702-385-4011. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. $-$$$. $-$$. $-$$. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. % 702-298-4200. while the Colorado Belle. % 702-298-2214. 202 Fremont Street. opened in 1990. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Emeril’s. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. in the Las Vegas Hilton. classy Hugo’s Cellar. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. contact the Chamber of Commerce. After a few meals at most of these troughs. 401 South 6th Street. On the Strip. and Gatsby’s. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. Off the main drags. % 702-298-2535. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. $-$$$. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. 1900 South Casino Drive. and very expensive. % 702-298-7111. % 702-3807711. % 702-298-2453. 2000 South Casino Drive. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South.
in the shadow of Mt.000 and 8. % 702-2984600.400 feet. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. 308 West Sahara Avenue. as the name implies. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. % 702733-8899. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. % 702-383-0007. 3900 Paradise Road. For satisfying American favorites. Chin’s. For a Latin taste. The Green Shack. Kyle Canyon. serves fine steaks and seafood. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. 4455 Paradise Road. call % 702-873-8800. % 702-382-1644. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. so be prepared for extreme weather. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. Charleston. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. Fong’s. is the oldest restaurant in the city. . Near the end of Nevada 157. seven days a week. which. % 702-384-4470. having opened in 1932. % 702-298-2242. All five campgrounds have piped water. For information. while moderately pricey. % 702-693-5000. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. serves hip. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. The elevation here ranges between 7. Chicken is the house specialty. is the most popular Chinese place in town. % 702-363-1921. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. % 702-873-5222. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. Phillip’s Supper House.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. % 702-794-0700. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. Suite Z. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. 2504 East Fremont. although the Lodge.
For information on all five locations. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. % 520-754-3272. % 702-397-2088. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. Across the river from the Strip. there’s Boulder Beach. Moving north from Boulder City. On the north shore. In Valley of Fire State Park. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. call % 702-646-3401. Las Vegas Territory . 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. % 520-7544606. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. To the east of Vegas. Calville Bay has 80 sites. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. For information. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. On the Virgin River to the north. north of town on Lake Mojave.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options.
as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. Heavenly and Mt. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all.000 feet. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. the largest alpine lake in North America. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. Rose resorts. At the heart of this region. just east of the California-Nevada border. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. With a surface elevation of more than 7. the city of Reno is the . Of course.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. Las Vegas. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. In the winter. The Truckee River. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. Reno. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. and for good reason. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet.
8. Just south of Carson City. Fort Churchill. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. North of Pyramid Lake. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. Farther east of Carson City. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. Washoe Lake State Park. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. Today this mirage-come-true. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. an ancient. Pyramid Lake. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. on the shores of Washoe Lake.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. About 30 miles north of Reno. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. meanwhile. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. The place dates back to 1851. are walks back in time. which meanders – sometimes wet. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. . The Carson River. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. where everyone expects Ben. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. Farther south. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub.
the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. From Reno.W. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. North Virginia Street. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. In 1852. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. and in 1859 C. From here. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. In 1863. Like Vegas. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. % 800-FOR-RENO. or at least slow. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. which hosts special events in warmer months. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. H. the city continues to grow rapidly. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno.H. From Carson City. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. for a schedule. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. there isn’t a glass pyramid. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. No.
the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. From a historical point of view. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. this is it. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. .
houses one of the world’s best collections. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. About 10 minutes north of the university. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. 300 North Center Street. When arms get tired. is also located here. boasts three treasures. % 702-688-1190. % 702-788-3773. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. To get there. turn right. The staff welcomes visitors daily. 1650 North Virginia Street. Animal Ark Nature Center. % 702-7855961. Reno-Tahoe Territory .) The Wilbur D. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. April through October. 1265 Deerlodge Road. % 702-969-3111. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. has been at that location since 1946. % 702784-4812. the campus of the University of Nevada. Great Basin Adventure. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. May Museum and Arboretum. On the north side of the city. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. And the Keck Minerals Museum. the National Automobile Museum. Fleischmann Planetarium. % 702-333-9300. a nifty historical theme park. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. (See below under On Foot. but call first for hours. % 702-784-4528. 10 South Lake Street. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. including black bears and kit foxes. The Nevada Historical Society. 1502 North Washington Street. On the suburban south side of Reno. On the northern outskirts of the city. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. is a well-known. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. houses a theater and telescope. % 702-334-2600.
% 702-328-6400. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. % 800-CAR-RENT. % 800-218-8777. Avis. % 800-4-SHUTTL. % 800-367-2277. . Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-231-2222. Delta Connection-Sky West. No Stress Express. % 800-453-9417. Dollar. TriStar Airlines. United Airlines. Canadian Airlines. Thrifty. Delta Air Lines. Enterprise. % 800-225-2525. % 800-331-1212. Hertz. Greyhound Lines. Alaska Airlines. % 800-736-6247. % 800-235-9292. Lloyd’s International. % 800-435-9792. % 800-527-0700. Budget. Airlines Air 21. % 800-241-6522. % 800-800-4000. % 800-221-2000. % 800-359-2472. % 800-654-7037. Northwest Airlines. % 800-426-7000. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. % 800-221-1212. TWA. % 702-882-3375. % 800-325-8007. If you don’t have a car. % 800-654-3131. National. Southwest Airlines. America West Airlines. Reno Air. K-T Services.
is a study in contrast. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. local.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. 98 Colony Road. the waters are now finding friends in high places. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. NV 89502. in his journal Roughing It. All told. % 702-329-2936. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. In reality. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. year-round outdoor playgrounds. Reno. provides an interesting mix of adventures. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. At press time. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. rock. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. % 702-686-3030. Reno. a marvelous intermingling of water. control erosion and acquire open land. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. Fortunately. but the future of the Basin itself. 4590 South Virginia Street. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 800-FOR-RENO. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. 405 Marsh Avenue. trees and sky. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. restore forest and watersheds. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. In 1861. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. NV 89505. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. respectively.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
is a welcome respite. with its full slate of running water. $5. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. But in between them. (See below. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas.50 for adults.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. % 702-849-2511. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. % 702-831-0494. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. at 10. The north end of the beach. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. under On Foot.776 feet. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. along the eastern shoreline. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. restrooms and picnic areas.) Up the twisting NV 431. called Diver’s Cove. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. is well-known to snorkelers. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side.50 for kids. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. The beaches are open daily. Three miles south of Incline Village. After the buzz of the ranch. Admission is $8. stands out amid the pines. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. % 702-831-0691. The park. open May through November. Viewed from the highway. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly.
The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction.50 per adult. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. under Adventures and Accommodations. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. PO Box 16299. % 702588-3000. Sailing. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. This is the home port of the Dixie II. a nature trail circles the lake. At Tahoe Village. South Lake Tahoe. $6 per child. NV 89449. then into the broad Washoe Valley. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. Every summer. Booming in the winter (see below. offices and shops.250 feet in five minutes. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. also offers excursions. % 702588-3508. % 800-AT-TAHOE. PO Box 7139. % 702-588-4591. (See below. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. The next stop is Zephyr Cove.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. canoeing. For information. horseback riding. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. % 916-583-9048. CA. under On Snow). Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. The day-use fee is $5. restaurants. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. The price for such sloth is $10. under On Snow. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. (See below. May through November.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos.) For the unmechanized. 96151. condos. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. Stateline.
About 15 miles south of Reno.000 acres. the world’s largest silver strike. The park’s centerpiece. % 702-849-0201. and on weekends between May and October. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. % 702-687-4319. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. (See below. off NV 429. About 30 miles south of Reno.” On Halloween in 1864. 87 and 98). Camping. Bowers Mansion. Washoe Lake covers about 3. the mansion and all its furnishings. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. was hit a year later in Virginia City. During the wet season. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. windsurfing. under Adventures. 1851. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. a hunt that lasted 20 years. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. site of Washoe Lake State Park. one mile south of Washoe City. pages 83. When the Comstock Lode. boating. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. US 395 slides southwest. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. camping and hiking (see below. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. Bowers Mansion County Park. The original owners. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. In November. eventually lost their silver fortune. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. the boom rolled in at full throttle. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. Washoe Lake.
excepting state holidays. . % 702-687-5160. Just east of the Capitol. in fact. The library contains the original state constitution. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. The Capitol Building & Museum. Open Monday through Friday. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. % 702687-5030. Headquartered in nearby Minden. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. Unlike most Western capitals.” In fact. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. It’s so open. yearround. Located in the Carson City Mint building. 101 North Carson Street. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. 600 North Carson Street. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. % 702-687-4810. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. Call for schedules and pick-up points. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. 100 Stewart Street. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. % 702-884-3450. the Capitol is open daily. exhibits of native fauna. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. the Nevada State Library & Archives. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. Admission is $3. which was opened in 1886. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture.
is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. books and permits for the surrounding area. % 702-887-2174.50. % 702-884-2226. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. 302 South Carson Street. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. Roughing It. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. On the suburban south side of Carson City. 502 North Division Street. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. % 702-826-2766. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. 5366 Snyder Avenue. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. % 702-687-6953. That classic journal. Samuel.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. and Bender House (1874). Admission is $4 for adults. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. The office is closed Sundays. Two blocks north. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. % 702-882-1808. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. Bliss Mansion. 2180 South Carson Street. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The St. 1207 North Carson Street. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. train rides are extra. 1536 South Carson Street. The building now houses a live theater. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. The staff can provide trail maps. 813 North Carson Street. The Orion Clemens House. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. The Stewart Indian Museum. The museum is filled with period furniture. was named for its original occupant. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. The Roberts House Museum. 448 West King Street. Charles-Muller Hotel. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. Admission is $2. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. Admission is $2. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. the Carson City Brewing Company. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. % 702-883-1976. $2 for kids.
lies Genoa. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. Before the school closed in 1980. As of presstime. opened in 1863. saunas. Guests can enjoy the water. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. May through October. at the foot of the Carson Range. Up the street. The roots go back to 1851. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. Daily admission is $12.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. . % 702-782-8155. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. May through October. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. 2001 Foothill Road. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. to Genoa. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. The place saw Nevada’s first house. California. weight room and tennis courts year-round. Carson City. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. where he is buried. % 702-687-7410.000 students had walked its halls. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. now long gone. NV 89701. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. The museum is open daily. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. Across the street. 1900 South Carson Street. Walley’s. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. the first permanent white settlement in the state. first opened to tourists in 1862. Genoa Bar. 3. % 702-782-4325. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs.
a 1. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. which climbs up a narrow. Just down US 395. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. In Gardnerville. their sweat. Virginia City. where it intersects with NV 341. The otherwise barren hills. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. of all places. the highway hits Topaz Lake. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. and their spirit built the Silver State. About three miles south of Gardnerville. Beyond NV 341. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. Finally.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. Minden was founded in 1904. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. Leaving Carson City. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. 1477 Highway 395. boxing memorabilia. 1440 Highway 395. % 702-782-2555. Gardnerville in 1879. including Western art and portraiture.200acre beauty set at 5. % 702-266-3343. about eight miles south of Carson City. Housed in the 1915 high school building. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. % 702-782-3133. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. resting precariously . the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. Their riches. circus items. valleys. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines.
% 702-847-0777. The Comstock Lode had been struck. Up C Street.000 lived in Virginia City. . more than 15. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. Here. % 702-847-0757. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. Today. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. Admission is $3. May through October. leave regularly. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. Not recommended for claustrophobes. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. underground mine tours. Admission prices range from donations to $3. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. is a looming. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. The Marshall Mint Museum. At the south end of town. % 702847-0975. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. The building is open daily.000 a ton in silver. and within four years. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street.
has a more eclectic collection. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. for a ride into yesterday. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. June through October. 3. % 702-847-0766. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room.50. Open daily. Admission is $2. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. lives on in two buildings. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. Mark Twain’s Memories. % 702-847-9394. is open daily. is definitely not for the puritan. % 702-847-0454. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. windswept plateau. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. a room in the basement of a saloon. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. complete with ornate chandeliers. The Way It Was Museum. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. Reno-Tahoe Territory . The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. including an old jukebox and player pianos. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. Its extravagant interior. After she was murdered in 1867. Finally.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. % 702-8470830. % 702-847-0525. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. % 702847-0275. % 702-8470333. The Mark Twain Museum. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. The memory of Samuel Clemens. The headstones and gravesites. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. Admission is $2.
Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. wild horses. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. The Byway’s terminus. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. After another 20 miles. There is also a developed campground. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. % 702-847-0311. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. % 702-577-2345. appears in Palomino Valley. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. little more than a few walls remain. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. Past the intersection with NV 431. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. number about 30. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. Today. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. % 702-673-1150. including Odeon Hall. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. or mustangs. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. then exit at NV 445. After about eight miles.
nine-mile-wide watering hole. If losing yourself is your goal. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. campground. store and museum. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. continues to surround the lake. this is the place to do it – unless. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. site of the ranger station. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. boating and fishing are extra. Today. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. the world’s largest playa. Just north of the marina. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. the road passes Wino. thus christening the 27-mile-long. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. % 702-547-0187. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. From Nixon. or dry lake bed. according to artifacts found in local caves. boat ramp. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. A reservation was formalized in 1874. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. % 702-476-1156. of course. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. Fremont. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. Another 25 miles north via paved. since at least 9. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation.182 feet) to the west. Camping. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. The latter are fine specimens of tufas.000 BC. Spreading north and east. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. Nearby. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. Tribe members administer recreation activities. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. They will provide directions and hours of operation. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake.
76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. and carry enough water. preparedness is imperative. spare tire. % 503-947-3315. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. songbirds. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. Help can be a long way away. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. TAKE CARE In this region. tow chain. even with one. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. about one mile south of NV 140. birds of prey. Again. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. . A shovel. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. on 575. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Besides antelope. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. caution and common sense are key to traveling. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley.
In Virginia City. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. % 702-829-1955. In Reno. Reno also . % 702-588-9658. Night Curves. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. % 702-329-3877. Richest Rodeo in the West. % 702-265-5281. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. % 702-847-0311. % 702-847-7500. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. In Gardnerville. In Carson City. % 800-FOR-RENO.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. is a rip-snortin’ affair. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. % 702-687-7410. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. % 702-782-2211. The Way It Was Rodeo. water. Carson Valley Days. with food. heats up. % 702-882-1283. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-882-1802. % 702-353-2291.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. is held in Sparks. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. % 702-882-1808. bills itself as the “Wildest. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. % 702-329-7469. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. a rolling custom car show. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. % 702-782-2444. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. % 702-588-6211. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. % 702-883-1352.
% 702-885-6939. In Incline Village. . Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. the Native American Snow Dance. come to Virginia City along with a parade. and the National Championship Air Races. % 800-535-3045. deconstructionist Woodstock. % 702-826-1181. % 702-782-9711. the Nevada State Fair. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. % 702-882-1565. % 702-688-5767. a sort of post-modern. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-786-5700. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. In the skies. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. % 702-832-1606. % 702-827-7603. % 702-847-0311. the notorious Burning Man Festival. Street Vibrations. and the Nevada Day Parade. % 702-329-1476. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. gather in Minden. is held in Reno. % 702-329-7469. On the Black Rock Desert. takes place in Carson City. % 702-972-6663.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. attracts American Indians from many Western states. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. The Great Italian Festival.
are more chilling than the mountain air. so dress appropriately.000 feet. however. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. There are 10 routes. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. 1994. Falcon Press Publishing. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. whips around a peak. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. Farther south. then climbs in earnest toward the peak.14a). Overhangs present experts with 5. all 5. . The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. There are more than 20 routes. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe.11d) and Slayer (5.11a and 5.11c and heavier. After crossing Galena Creek. At the five-mile mark. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. then climbs to a saddle. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels.12a opportunities. including Asylum (5. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. including Jello Wars (5.11a). The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles.
Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. offers a beautiful willow. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. for children $5. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. so call first. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. The trail ends at a highway. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. as are group tours. After another mile. including great blue herons and birds of prey.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. Since the slide. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. This hike is certainly strenuous. % 702-847-WALK. . The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. climbing 3.260 feet. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. The charge for adults is $12. NV 431. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. % 702-6881893. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road.300 feet in just six miles. Hours are seasonal. elevation 8.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley.
. For more information. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. Mahogany Mountain. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. as are 7. Stevens Camp. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. The trail. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. is a good overnight point.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. Oakland. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. For road conditions and closures. For more information. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. % 916-279-6101. From here. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. OR 97441. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. Yellow Hills East. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. CA 94620. For travel information. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. great horned owls and other birds of prey. As this is being written. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. Madras. To reach the trailhead. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. write them at PO Box 20991. contact the BLM.
across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. % 702-333-6795.397 feet. Nevada Guide Service. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. A steep. Sparks. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. Look for the Knott Creek sign. 20 Daylily Court. 3335 Vista Boulevard.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. but they might also offer their services to hikers. Bighorn Outfitting. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. 490 Kietzke Lane. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. NV 89436. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. to the soaring summit at 9. NV 89502. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. % 702-832-5231. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. backpackers and photographers. Denio Junction.200 lung-burning feet. Outdoor Adventures. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. % 702-322-9559. NV 89450. 1135 Terminal Way. On the east side of the reservoir. PO Box 6145. #111. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. % 702-626-6916. jogs through alpine meadows. gaining 2. Patagonia Outlet. The lakes. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. % 702-623-1500. Reno. Incline Village. NV 89511. % 702-851-1924. Silver State Outfitters. 8550 White Fir Street. % 702-746-6878. . terminus of the fairly flat. Reno. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl.
% 702-885-7773. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. % 702884-3453. which parallels North Canyon Creek. and offers picnic rides. also rents horses. % 702-849-0570. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. the trail makes a high-altitude. 1941 North Carson Street. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. 1201 Highway 395. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. Zephyr Cove Stables. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. % 702588-5664.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. % 702-8252855. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. % 702-831-5465. contact Tin Cup Adventures. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. In all four cases. call first for availability and directions. Twin City Surplus. Strictly Scuba & More. 4375 South Carson Street. % 702782-7011. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. % 702-849-1020. % 702-8827779. Sporting Rage. offers ranch day trips. % 702-849-9651. Near Washoe Lake State Park. 4339 South Carson Street. Vogl Trek USA. Sierra Mountaineer. % 702-323-5630. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. In the highlands near Mount Rose. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. Sierra Spirit Ranch. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. After about three miles. 1675 East 4th Street. % 702-3584824. 155 East Moana Lane.
and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. . % 916-279-6101. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. The half-paved. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. To complete the loop. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. depending on point of view. Continuing northwest on NV 447. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). For detailed maps. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. Put simply. don’t screw it up. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. % 702-831-0494. or ends. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. 84 miles back to Gerlach. From here. north of Pyramid Lake. to Vya. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon.
% 702-3226001. 1993. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. % 702-8871333. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. 1987 North Carson Street. Bike Brothers. 89532. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. 4135 South Virginia Street. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. Falcon Press Publishing. call % 702-688-1500. % 702-747-1413. 1999 South Virginia Street. For more information. 1200 South Wells Avenue. south of Carson City. 89502. 89502. along with Canada geese in fall. 3450 Lakeside Drive.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. % 702883-3210. % 702786-5111. also known as NV 206. 89701. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. winter and spring. % 702-825-8258. 89502. . 500 North Carson Street. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. 89701. Excell Skates. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. & According to Jeanne L. Bicycle Warehouse. 235 East Plumb Lane. Great Basin Bicycles. % 702827-3277. Reno Schwinn. 89502. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. % 702826-0800. 89509.
Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. red-tailed hawks. 625 Fairview Drive. six miles south of Gardnerville. 89423. The trip. 1685 Highway 395 South. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. % 702-588-3369. kingfishers. Nevada. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. personal water craft and kayaks. which can take up to seven hours. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. via NV 88 and CA 89. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. cutthroat and rainbows. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. % 702-8825007. During spring and early summer. 89450. offers 1. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. turkey vultures. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. Contact the US Forest Service. 89701. Entrance fee is $3 per car. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. On the Nevada side. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. PO Box 3007.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. California. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. Spooner Lake. coyotes. canoes. . rents powerboats. % 702782-0867.
drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. both on the eastern shore. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. For the stalwart anglers. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. Idlewilde Park. are regularly stocked with rainbows. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. The smaller. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. % 702-6874319. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. two to three miles up a steep trail. % 702-688-1500. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. thanks to Sierra runoff. with campground and restrooms. and charges a launching fee. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. For more adventurous angling. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. planting and licensing information. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. A better option might be Ophir Creek. but in wet years. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. For directions. There are two boat ramps. catfish and trout. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. For moving-water anglers. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. although . the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. Washoe Lake State Park. However. water levels. only a mile west of downtown. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers.
For more information. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. crappie and perch. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. see below.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. boasts a handful of isolated spots. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. a health advisory is still in effect. The reservoir is located on private land. while rainbow. the setting here is primative. More than 100 years later. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. Camping is primitive. . used to separate gold and silver from ore. In his book. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. Come prepared. Nevada Angler’s Guide. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. There are two boat ramps on the lake. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. Boats with outboards are permitted. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. Rainbow. however. under Outfitters. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. % 702-688-1500. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout.
% 916-546-4444. Stateline. Mount Rose also offers lessons. Reno. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. Sparks. % 702-322-9559. Tahoe Topliners. % 916-541-5448. % 702-358-6113. 96145. Tahoe Sportfishing Co.260 feet. Zephyr Cove. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. rentals and a shuttle bus. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. The Gilly. Don’s Fishing Charters. NV 89502. NV 89502. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. 490 Kietzke Lane. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. Tahoe City. % 916573-0753. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Zephyr Cove. 89502. . PO Box 10225. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. PO Box 6506. Reno Fly Shop. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. CA. Snowboarders are welcome. 294 East Moana Lane.. PO Box 1909. 155 East Moana Lane. NV 89449. NV 89431. Reno.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. % 702-827-0600. % 702-825-2855. PO Box 815. intermediate and advanced. % 702-588-4916. NV 89448. With a base elevation of 8. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West.440 vertical feet of runs. equally divided among novice. NV 89448. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory.
The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. lesson.000 feet above sea level. Diamond Peak.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. Heavenly. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. . % 702-749-5349. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. Heavenly has 18 chairs. NV. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. and/or snowshoes.800) and the highest top elevation (10. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. For cross-country fans. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. 1210 Ski Way. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. and rental. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes).040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. rentals. rentals. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. % 702-831-8361. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. Ask about midweek specials and package deals.500 feet). Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. which include a pass. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. lessons. $8 after 3 PM).840 feet. trail pass) is $34. Lessons. 89451. Snowboarders are welcome. lesson. six surface lifts. This is a monster of a mountain. Lessons. not to mention great views of the lake. a new gondola and the famous tram. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. day tours and amateur races. the greatest acreage (4. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. Incline Village. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. % 702-7823047. with the longest vertical drop (3. skate skis. all-terrain skis.000 to 9. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort.
89502. % 702831-3500. % 702-3239463. % 702-358-4824. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. Sundance Ski Company. % 702-786-2020. % 702-831-2922. 140 Vesta Street. % 702-831-3537. 89502. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Mogul Mouse. % 702782-0867. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. % 702-786-7071. Stateline House of Ski. 89502. Galena Ski Rentals. 515 East Moana Lane. 89502. In Reno. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 2615 Mill Street. % 702-588-5935. 89451. CA 96151. 89502. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89423. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. Sierra Mountaineer. Excell Skates. 1901 Silverada Boulevard.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. % 702786-5111. 89502. 235 East Plumb Lane. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. 89451. 89502. % 702-849-0111. % 916-544-1221. PO Box 19215. Serva Ski. South Lake Tahoe. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. 89502. 209 Kingsbury. % 702-329-5358. 321 Sky Way. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. % 702-3226001. 89451. Snowind Sports. C&J Flight Aviation. 2500 East 2nd Street. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 702-8269096. of- . 16975 Mount Rose Highway. 1685 Highway 395 South.
HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. % 702-784-4944. has 740 rooms. . Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. Lake Tahoe. Harrah’s. % 800-99-RIDGE. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. has two. 398 US 50. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. poolside service. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. offers 534 rooms. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. % 702-588-8571. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. a dance club. the Sierras and. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). Harvey’s Resort. % 800-648-3353. High Country Soaring. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. $$$-$$$$. % 800-427-8397. % 800-6483773.. on this site since 1944. also features condo accommodations. $$$$$$$. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. $$$-$$$$. eight restaurants. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. Tahoe Summit Village. % 800-635-0066. $$$-$$$$. Lake Village Vacations. of course.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. $$$-$$$$. $$$$. The Douglas County Airport. three.
2 Stateline Road. The Haus Bavaria B&B. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. % 800-322-7723. combines great views. lawn games. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. $$. 407 North Virginia Street. 593 North Dyer Circle. % 800-731-6222. has 33 rooms. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. The Zephyr Cove Resort. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. Harrah’s. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. $$-$$$. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. % 800-687-8733. which serves free continental breakfast. % 800-824-6391. % 702-831-0287. $-$$. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. % 702-588-6644. with more than 1.700 rooms on 38 floors. % 800-624-7980. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. As in Las Vegas. % 702-8321234. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. Among the downtown locations.$$-$$$$. $$. % 800-225-6382. 24 Highway 28. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. the Cal-Neva Resort. $$$-$$$$. % 800- . first-class. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. A perennial four-star winner. 111 Country Club Drive. $$-$$$$. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. a rustic feel. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. $$-$$$. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. as well as a gym with instructor on site. Today. 210 North Center Street. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. $$$. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe.
500 North Sierra Street. $$$$. % 702-786-4070. most notably the Days Inn. It has more than 1. has more than 1. $$-$$$. $$. two heated pools and a hair salon. $$. $$. welcomes bargain hunters. $$. 1901 South Virginia. an owner-built.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. 345 North Virginia Street. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. 310 South Carson Street. the Motel 6. % 702-827-0255. $. 710 West Robinson Street. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. Nearby. $$$. the new Peppermill. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street.000 rooms. % 800-648-1177. Rates start at $195 per night. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. % 800-648-5966. 3575 South Virginia Street. 2707 South Virginia Street. . Freeway convenient. which features theme rooms. has a heated pool. including a barber shop. $$. 3131 South Virginia Street. 701 East 7th Street.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. the Eldorado. $$-$$$. % 800-320-0627. 1100 Nugget Avenue. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. free airport shuttle and skier rates. convention facilities and some impressive suites. and Vagabond Inn. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. Away from downtown. $$. Circus Circus. % 800-723-6500. % 800-723-6500. % 800-937-1436. 600 South Carson Street. boasts nearly 600 rooms. % 800-622-1890. a heated pool and other amenities. % 702-8821887. $$. Charles Hotel. $$$. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. $. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. is a three-story. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. The Atlantis. % 800-282-2444. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. which overlooks the state government center. The St. % 702-882-3643. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. Motel 6. % 702-358-1080. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. $$. % 702-825-7134. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast.
1627 US 395. 2001 Foothill Road. was built in the late 1800s. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. % 702-782-7644. #800-628-7831. $$$. % 702-782-9711. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. $-$$. $$-$$$. is the center of the action. 300 Main Street. 11 with private baths. $$. 1435 US 395. 565 South D Street. % 702-782-7075. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. 907 South Carson. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. 2332 Main Street. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. $. 1979 US 395. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. $$-$$$. % 702-882-3046. $-$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. The motel has 40 rooms. % 702-847-9777. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 8 South F Street. $$. 1431 Ezell Street. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. $$. % 702-782-8720. % 800-321-6983. $-$$. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. There are 13 rooms. It has four rooms. and Pioneer. $$$. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. has five rooms. $$. % 702-847-0111. $$$. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. % 702-8825535. % 800-962-0732. some with kitchenettes. . for weary wanderers. 180 Nixon Street. The Crooked House. $-$$. The Chollar Mansion. It has four rooms. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. generic motels abound in Carson City. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. two with private baths. % 702-557-2220. 1643 US 395. 1540 Main Street.C. including the small Genoa House Inn. Pratt. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. 800 North Carson. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. % 702-782-5697. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. the inn was built in 1872 by A. and a casino. % 702-847-0521.
including a seafood and oyster bar. 1200 Razorback Road. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. % 702-825-1250. The Chart House. The restaurant also does its own baking. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. . seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. % 702-827-4111. of course. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. 328 Kingsbury Grade. try the Glory Hole. the lake’s first casino. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. Open for dinner only. the menu changes every two months. % 702-323-5550. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. The place has 14 rooms. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. % 702-786-1323. % 702-588-6276. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. coffee shops. 210 North Sierra Street. Open for dinner only. % 702-323-3200. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. 4201 West 4th Street. no TVs and. 3127 South Virginia Street. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. % 702-588-2411. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. Famous Murphys. 3065 West 4th Street. ethnic food and full buffets. a casino. Reservations are recommended. The hotels. $. Ichiban. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. serves fresh Japanese steak. is a rousing pub with good food. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. seasonal ingredients. Steak. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. along with Caesars Tahoe. % 702-588-6611. also run the gamut with delis. The French cuisine is made with fresh.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. % 702-941-0371.
% 702-348-9297. % 702-882-3353. 507 North Carson Street. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. Adele’s. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. one of the top Italian eateries in country. serves fine French cuisine. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. 1112 North Carson Street. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. El Charro Avitia. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. Two blocks away. % 702-8835100. 1020 North Carson Street. 234 North Virginia. dinner only on weekends. Heidi’s. Boasting a large Italian menu. 255 North Sierra Street. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. Silvana’s. % 702-882-4556. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. 4389 South Carson Street. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. South of the city center and south of the border. this is the place. % 702-689-7226. There is also an extensive wine list. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. the Eldorado. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. % 702-8262121. . % 702-883-6261. 1301 North Carson Street. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. % 702786-5700. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. 402 East William Street. % 702-356-3300. 1540 Main Street. The Carson Nugget Steak House. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. seafood and steak. % 702-785-7000. 2707 South Virginia Street. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. and Peppermill. % 702-847-0111. % 702-882-0486. % 702882-1626.
the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. Mount Rose has running water. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. Showers are available. Reno RV Park. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. including Virgin Valley. Simply wonderful. % 702-789-2000. Rates run about $18 per night. for more information. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. .900 feet. 2500 East 2nd Street. some for RVs and some for tents. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. 1300 West 2nd Street. Big Spring Reservoir. % 702-323-3381. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. the campground has 24 sites. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. office of the BLM. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. On the Nevada side. call % 702266-3343. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. 735 Mill Street. Nightly fees are $6. % 916-573-2600. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. lies south of the river. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. The nightly fee is $5. Call the Cedarville. % 702-8822766.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. Open May through October. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. California. Set at 8. which straddles the Nevada-California border. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. For information and fees. % 702-322-2281. The overnight fee is $7. The overnight rate is $12. Open June through September. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. % 702-687-4319. nine for RVs. There are 44 campsites here. % 916-279-6101. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. the campground has 54 sites and running water. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors.
Want ads called for “Young. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. carrying only a pistol. pausing only long enough to change mounts. California. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. Missouri. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. Bible and mail pouch. wiry fellows not over eighteen. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. skinny. Beginning in April 1860.” Riders. willing to risk death daily. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. the gutsy riders. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. 1861.. On October 24. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory .Pony Express Territory vada.. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. Orphans preferred. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. tore between stations. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. and Sacramento. Incredibly. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Joseph. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest.
The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. spans some of the most beautiful. In the higher mountains. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. . one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. hiking and wildlife viewing. there is excellent skiing. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. Ranging in elevation from 3. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. so be prepared for anything. Just a few hours from Ely. this area has plenty to offer. But if you consider solitude.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. Near the town of Ely. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. ridges and valleys in the country.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. As might be expected. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. Great Basin. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. glacier-carved peaks.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. In recent years. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. % 702-867-3500. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. Over 14. In peak years. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. pelicans. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge.000 years. peregrine falcons. With 10. White-faced ibis. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. covers 77.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. 1050 South Maine Street. green-winged teals.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. % 702-423-5128. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. Admission is free. (See On Water. canvasbacks. Sunday. % 702-423-3677. as well as water diversion for agricultural use.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. below. . January through March. 1000 Auction Road.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles.000 photographic images. snowy plovers. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. the refuge shelters upwards of 350.000 people. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. April through December.
Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. which features the famous Blue Angels. The hunting season usually opens in October. is the artist in residence here. Just off the highway are two short trails. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. Over 8.000 years ago. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. Just east of town. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. and “management” means hunting. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. More than 21. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. Every spring. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. At press time. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. On the south end of town. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Pony Express Territory . near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Adam Fortunate Eagle. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road.
100 Campus Way. but strenuous. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. dark. % 702-423-4556. . fauna. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. A hike to the precipice is a safe. volcanic cliffs around it. % 702-423-2544. wild West.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon.” meaning sword. geology and history of the region. Fallon. about three miles past West Gate. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. the low. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. NV 89406. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. NV 89406. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. roars and moans.” Booms. If the roar of engines ever dies down. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. Near the station. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. regularly emanate from the dune. 379 West William Avenue. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. Fallon. listen for the mountain’s “singing.
Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. the boom was followed by the bust. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. Three miles later. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. past Bob Scott campground. 13 miles east of Austin. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. However the rush began. NV 89310. Spencer’s Hot Springs. Austin. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50.577 feet. NV 89045. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. then to paved NV 376. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. PO Box 1149. then climbs again to Austin. Round Mountain. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. Six miles later. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). The office is located in the Austin Courthouse.350 feet. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. As always. % 702-964-2145. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. PO Box 212. population about 300. Austin is a quiet. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . % 702-964-2200.
PO Box 1420. A long. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. After merging with Lower Mine Road. PO Box 212. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. The limestone cavern. .000 years ago. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. A series of safe. At mile 55. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. is recommended for serious. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. are open to visitors just off the road. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. experienced cavers only. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. The hill is located on private land. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. NV 89820. Austin. NV 89310. % 702635-4000. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. At mile 30. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. % 702-964-2200. There is also a free campground here. near Pete’s Summit.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley.500 years ago. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. Battle Mountain.
but most definitely worth a gander. Still. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. and the Jackson House Hotel. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. The building. The state’s No. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. some a little less gloriously than others. however. dates from 1877. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. Eureka. Not until five years later. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. completed in 1880 and still in use today. The shell of the building. found in the valleys around Eurkea. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. Eureka. Eureka’s population of 9.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. But by 1890 the rush was over. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. PO Box 14. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. Gold mines. By 1878. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . are still a major facet of the local economy. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. % 702-237-5484. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. NV 89316.
Eureka. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. n Ely Back on US 50. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994.500 residents. US 50 rolls across basin and range. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. NV 89316.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. % 702-237-5484. Situated at 9. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. Monday through Friday and by appointment. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. this mini-city (population about 5. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. A few miles farther south. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range.000 feet. Entering town at night . the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. PO Box 14. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. Pronounced EE-lee. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. n Ghost Towns From Eureka.
located on East 11th Street. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. % 702-289-2085. Return to US 50. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. NV 89301. furniture. Prices start at $10 per person. depot. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. The White Pine Public Museum. running water. There is primitive camping here. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. % 702-728-4467. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns.300 feet. 2000 Aultman Street. depart on selected dates from May through September. former First Lady Pat Nixon. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. as well as an original. Call for exact dates and times. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. like many museums in this territory. % 702-2894710. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. Tours of the railroad yard. engine house. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. clothing. accessories. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. Since they went cold in the 1880s. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. Admission is free. On the other side of town. showers and hiking trails. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. The museum. a bicycle. PO Box 150040. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada.50 per person. Pony Express Territory . when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. East Ely. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties.
In 1922. untamed backcountry. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. In the 1950s a . 1986. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. Most of the 77. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. contact the Ely office of the BLM. While hikers are welcome. Designated a national park in October. % 702-234-7331. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. % 800496-9350. From Baker. % 702-289-4865. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. 636 Aultman Street. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. % 702-289-8877.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. Bristlecone Convention Center. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. a proposal to create a 6. That leads quickly to Baker.000 people a year visit the park. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. 150 6th Street. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. sometimes by the hundreds. For more information. Only about 70.
Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. Prices are $4 for adults. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. the park’s crown jewel. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. Baker.000 to 44. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. which is actually one huge cavern. NV 89311-9702. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. are held every day except Thanksgiving. $3 for juniors.000.067-foot Wheeler Peak. Congress settled on 77. ski resorts and tramways. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. in 1986. . below.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. Christmas and New Year’s Day. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. flowstone and soda straws.086-acre Great Basin National Park. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. Call ahead for conditions. are hard to beat. or speleotherms: stalactites. stalagmites. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. % 702-234-7331. Tours of the cavern. The high-altitude campgrounds. (See On Foot and Camping. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. Finally. among others. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. draperies. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. then head straight out of the park. too.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. limited to 30 people at a time. columns. While celebrating a victory.
Drive three miles to the recreation area. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. Tierney Creek. % 702-9642671. To reach Garnet Hill. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. Millet Ranch. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. South Toiyabe Peak. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. a few of which are even of gem quality. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. to reach the village of Kingston. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. Arc Dome. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles.600 feet. Set at 7. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. south into Arc Dome Wilderness.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. which has picnic tables and shade trees. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth.000 feet. . Bakeoven Creek. are spessartite. The garnets found here. Carvers NW. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. or use paved NV 376. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. or magnesiumaluminum garnet.
difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state.000-acre. The wilderness. windswept paths. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. which heads west toward the peak. From the trailhead/parking area. nausea. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. is marked with trailhead signs.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. which at 12. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. which may be impassable when wet. Baker. This is some serious highcountry hiking. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. leave the high country immediately. headache. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. After about 10 miles of hiking. and Mount Moriah.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. The trail ends just before the summit. with many trails climbing above 10. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. 1. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. % 702-289-3031 for more information. If threatening clouds approach.000 feet along rocky. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). as well as all the water you will need. a unique. set aside in 1989. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. Pony Express Territory .
000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. To reach the summit. the last 1. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. In 1878. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. Use extreme caution here. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. This is another depression etched by a glacier.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. Continue straight. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. the views of the 8. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. At 13. If it is safe to venture to the peak. then turn left again.063 feet.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. then descends to Teresa Lake. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. or cirque. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. Finally. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. The bowl. the six-mile .
After about three miles. Wheeler Peak. just off to the east.926-foot Pyramid Peak. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4.700 feet in the first seven miles. . subalpine conditions. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. Return the way you came. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. Lehman Caves. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2.950 years. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. In good weather. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. Turn left. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. Kious Spring. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. To continue the loop hike. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. this is a nice overnight stop. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. Around mile six. To return to the trailhead. once the site of some mining activity. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier.
1050 Aultman Street. is worth a gander. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. . 1707 Rice Road. 89301. Wildlife West Guide Service. a quartermile. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. % 702235-7439. % 702-289-8886. 189 Aultman Street. 5030 Reno Highway. % 702-423-5185. % 702-289-4468. 89406. Flying M Stables. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. 89406. 89301. sells camping and outdoor equipment. Box 33570. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. PO Box 2560. 89301. As of presstime. % 702-423-6171. 2005 Harrigan Road. % 702-664-2977. % 702423-9215. 203 Heritage Drive. 701 Avenue F. Daum. HC 34. 89406. % 702-2893063. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. 89301. Sportsworld.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. 89301. % 702-867-3388. % 702-238-5232. Great Basin Inn. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. Silver State Stables. 89883. 3125 Stark Lane. 89406. % 800-874-0903. White River Guide Service. J & P Auto Parts. 89406. PO Box 34005. 89301. % 702-4239215. HCR 33. Wendover George A. % 702-289-4208. Burdick Guide Service.
The route runs north out of the canyon. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. PO Box 130. PO Box 504. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. Austin. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. Austin. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. contact the BLM. For more information. A 10-mile loop with a 1. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. one would think tiny Austin. % 702-885-6000. NV 89310. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. NV 89310. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . population 300. the sixstory. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. brochures and campgrounds. For more information.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch.000 per year. Dune-buggy. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. % 702-964-2671.
past the US Forest Service station. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. sells and services bicycles. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. % 702-234-7331. % 702-289-8886. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. . Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. From the pavement. for maps. 1500 Aultman Street. and bring plenty of water. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. directions and road conditions. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. when the weather is dry. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker.
with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. Lahontan State Recreation Area. surrounds a 10. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. The trout limit is 10. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. Pony Express Territory . Boat ramps are located in two spots. White crappie can be hooked March through May. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. where worms and corn are said to work best.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. % 702-688-1500.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. along with sportfishing. In 1997. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake.
A few chain HO TE L . the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. % 702-423-6031. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. 1500 Aultman Street. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. % 702-289-3063. via paved NV 376 and a three. % 702-289-8886. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. which feeds the lake. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. J & P Auto Parts. 1050 Aultman Street. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. is one of the biggest places in town. 701 Avenue F. The Upper Reese River. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. 855 West Williams Avenue. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. Great Basin Inn. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. % 702-289-4468. and one of the best bargains. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. $-$$. % 702-289-4865.
also called Main Street here. which has 30 rooms. 25 North Taylor Street. the 22-room Value Inn. basic equipment. % 702-423-4254. % 702-423-5554. $-$$. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . % 702-237-5334. $. 180 West Williams Avenue. $$$. has 17 rooms. The Sundown Lodge. Smith Creek Ranch. the Lincoln Motel. $$$. called Main Street as it runs through town. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. rates and directions. For a real blast from the past. The ranch. combines a B&B with a private. is a modern. % 702-423-2277. has 27 rooms. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. % 702-423-2194. most of which are on US 50. including the Comfort Inn. The Nevada Belle Motel. 115 Northwest Main Street. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. 1705 South Taylor Street. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. which is north-south running US 95. $-$$. the Budget Inn. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. % 702-9642605. Call for information. % 702-237-5247. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. but after a long day on the road. 70 East Williams Avenue. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. with 10 rooms. % 702-423-5151. % 702-964-2471. $$. The Eureka Motel. instruction. $-$$. % 702-423-4648. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. $-$$.800 acres. who really cares. a heated pool and interior corridors. a heated pool and a small casino. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. % 702-964-2306. 1830 West Williams Avenue.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. As you drive in from the west. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. which has 49 rooms. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. $-$$. and. % 702-237-5577. On the east end of town. the Pony Express House. while on the southern edge of town. meals and overnight accommodations. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. It is open seasonally. has 21 rooms. $-$$. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. % 702-964-2698. which has 17 rooms. try Jackson House B&B. $. $$. $. The red brick structure was built in 1877.
There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. % 702-289-8687. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. For a more modern taste. Ely With a population of more than 5. 1501 Avenue F. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. the building was vacant 10 years later. 930 Aultman Street. $-$$. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. $-$$. % 702-289-4747.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. % 702-289-4884. $-$$. % 702-289-8838. For a more genteel stay. There are also private balconies. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. 500 High Street. which has 19 rooms. $-$$$. % 702-289-6665. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. which has 61 rooms. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. 5th . when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. 1101 Aultman Street. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. % 702289-6671. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. 701 Avenue I. $-$$. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. The inn is open June through September. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. $. 770 Avenue O. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. the inn has five rooms with private baths. $$. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. % 702-289-4497. two-story hotel. $-$$. $$-$$$. 220 East 11th Street. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. The Bristlecone Motel. % 702-289-8900. $. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. is another living antique. 501 Aultman Street. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. % 702-237-9988. located on the south side of town off US 93. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. 700 Avenue I. % 702-2891234. and its twin. has 21 rooms. After years of dormancy.300.
Behind the Silverjack. South of Baker at the national park boundary. the Border Inn. $-$$. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. % 702-237-7302. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. which has a laundromat and showers. with its seven rooms. is a favorite spot for travelers. % 702-289-4411. 1301 Aultman Street.er.. % 702234-7323.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. % 702-234-7323. Baker. It is open June through August. The Silverjack Motel. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. and Whispering Elms RV Park. guided tours and off-road adventures. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. PO Box 90. % 702-234-7267. $-$$. offers tipis and a campground. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. 150 4th Street. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. $. Utah. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. 24hour laundromat and showers. $. % 702-234-7343. % 702-289-3800. along with horseback riding. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. what with its 29 rooms. % 702-234-7272. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. so call ahead for operating hours. % 702-289-3033. . Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. even fast food joints are nonexistent. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. $. % 702234-7300. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. and two others outside of Baker. and the White Pine Motel.. NV 89311. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. $.
seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. 960 Auction Road. 1955 McClean Road. In 1929 and ’30. however. is home to The Diner. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. In the 1920s and ‘30s. 4150 Reno Highway. % 702423-6828. 1560 West Williams Avenue. % 702-964-2220. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. Toiyabe Café. specializing in omelets and steaks. % 702-964-2493. Tony’s. 70 South Maine Street. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. including the few eateries. Carol’s Country Kitchen. % 702-867-2769. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. % 702-423-3111. Café Nations. is Fallon’s only coffee house. Stockman’s Casino. % 702-867-3750.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. % 702-423-6166. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. is known throughout Fallon. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. is also open for three squares a day. 875 West Williams Avenue. The Depot Casino. 125 South Maine Street. The International Café and Bar. Kentucky Fried Chicken. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. % 702-423-2117. The Fallon Nugget Casino. Denny’s. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. including McDonald’s. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. % 702-964-9905. The Mexican food at La Cocina. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. Open for breakfast. If your mind is on pizza. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). Smack in the center of town. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. % 702-423-3233. 1350 West Williams Avenue. % 702-423-5588. serves up steaks. have been serving great burgers. lunch and dinner. try Mary’s Owl .
4800 Reno Highway. located three miles north of town on US 93. % 702-237-5280. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. % 702-964-2412. 5787 Reno Highway. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. serving diner-style grub. % 702-237-5356. and is attached to a bar. % 702-289-4888. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. 211 5th Street. The Fireside Inn. The Owl Club. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. 701 Avenue I. % 702-289-4884. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. Jerry Restaurant No. % 702-964-2627. % 702-289-3033. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. % 702-289-3905. % 702-289-6665. % 702-867-2332. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. serves a fine steak sandwich. 501 Aultman Street. % 702-237-5477. offers 45 sites. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. and Orient Express. % 702-2289-3765. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. % 702-289-3313. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. and Hubtotel RV Park. 1455 Aultman Street. has 64 sites. % 702-688-1500. 562 Aultman Street. 21. Believe it or not.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. % 702-867-3636. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. might as well top it off in Eureka. is also open 24 hours a day. Lahontan State Recreation Area. The Busy Bee Drive-In. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. where the restaurants are also along US 50. West of Fallon. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. top sirloin steak and eggs. which features prime rib. Fallon RV Park. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. however. 2160 Aultman Street. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers.
picnic tables and vault toilets. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. None have running water. Battle Mountain. Finally. There are 15 sites. NV 89820. There are 10 sites here . Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest.300 feet. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. To reach Bird Creek campground. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. set at 7. After a few miles. both off of US 50. % 702-964-2671. PO Box 1420. Open April to October. Just east of the Eureka town limits. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. as there are no services near the water. % 702-635-4000. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. No running water or firewood. North of Ely. There is drinking water here. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. PO Box 130. For information. which are open June through September with running water. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. Bob Scott Campground. Austin. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. where there are eight campsites set at 7. For more information and road conditions. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50.500 feet. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. NV 89310. Just east of town. About nine miles south of Big Creek. Kingston Campground has 14 sites.800 feet. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. along with campfire rings. grills. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. Only six miles southwest of Ely. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. % 702-964-1011. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. Austin RV Park. 24 miles east of Austin. then go a mile to County Road 1059. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze).
Nine miles above Upper Lehman. % 702-2893413. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek.300 feet.530 feet.886 feet. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. % 702-2893303. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. Contact the visitors center. Pony Express Territory . there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. 89301. In the center of the park. Upper Lehman. on US 93. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. For more information. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. In Great Basin National Park. NV.250 feet). Ely. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. and there are no showers. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. 350 8th Street. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. There are 30 sites here at 7. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Set at 7. % 702-2893031. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. depending on weather conditions. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. % 702-289-4865. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. this is the only park campground open all year. % 702-234-7331. has 100 sites.752 feet. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. On the northern edge of the park. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. and Valley View RV Park. To reach the campground from US 50. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. The BLM.
The Great Basin dominates the landscape here.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia.000 feet and more. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. The short. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. . stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. He found one living specimen dating back 4. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. the state animal. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. the oldest living thing on earth. Today in Cowboy Country.000-year-old duck decoys. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. however. humans. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. reaching as high as 11. Named Methuselah. who described them as “lowly old giants. call many parts of this high country home. started pulling core samples.700 years. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. sagebrushcovered sea. not many of them stayed around very long. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. when University of Arizona researcher Dr.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. Desert bighorn sheep. Edmund Schulman. Throughout history. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border.
the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. bass and other gamefish. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. and know how to use them. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. towns like Winnemucca. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. In fact. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. lakes and reservoirs. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. Winter brings rain and snow. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. streams. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. In 1993. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. Summers are generally hot and dry. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country.000 years. Carry good maps and a compass. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. bikers and equestrians. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. Elko headed the list of the 100 . offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. The weather here can be as wild as the land.
The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. paralleled the Humboldt River. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. This is a place where pick-up trucks. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. The famous trail. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. combed Cowboy Country. But since the early days. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. took to sheepherding. parts of which are still visible today. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. after the riches ran out. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. followed by the doomed Donner Party. but everyday tools. Cowboy Country . that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. In late 1860s. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. others moved on. both held in Elko. but thanks to new mining technology. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. including one named Samuel Clemens. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. lunch and dinner. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who.
including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. which crosses the Humboldt River. The seat of 6. Five miles southwest of the shelter. turn left on Derby Road. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950.300. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave.000-square-mile Pershing County. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. After eight miles. arrived here in 1866. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. which measures . With a population of just over 2. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. George Lovelock. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. which the company named after him. located on the southern outskirts of town.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. about 17 miles from Lovelock.
The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. NV 89419. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. the first ever in the Great Basin. in 1886 or 1887. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. many of which were donated by locals. which also features the community pool. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. Scientific excavations. Lovelock. dark. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. are large. % 702-273-2713. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. Tufas. One of only two round courthouses in the country. PO Box 821.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. Mummified remains were found here. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. Admission is free. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. picnicperfect park. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. He may have been led there by Natchez. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. clothing and household items.
although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. % 702-273-2713. below) and wellmanicured homes. For details. About 16 families reside in Unionville. fishing and camping. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. is centered on this man-made lake. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. which seems close enough to touch. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). To reach the tufas from the courthouse. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. PO Box 821. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. NV 89419. as well as opportunities for boating. see below under Adventures. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. Open all year. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. Lovelock. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. % 702-538-7321.134 n Cowboy Country vada. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. After later taking the name Mark Twain. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. where stone .
a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. Admission is free. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. a good spot for a picnic. To reach Unionville from I-80. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. % 702-623-2912. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. dancing. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. except for lunch. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. From here it’s five miles to the town. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). Winnemucca (population 7. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. a former resident.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. the Humboldt Museum complex. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. Edna Purviance. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. They later brought their families. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. Curator . When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. Today their descendants. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. % 702/623-2225. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week.
along with a thank you note. NV 89445.000 in gold. NV 89445. but all are easily drivable. % 702-623-5025. Winnemucca. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy.000. St. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. US Forest Service. % 800-962-2638.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. The thieves escaped to Texas. Another gem is the Shone House. NV 89445. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. The tour visits 30 sites. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. was erected in 1863. The former First National Bank. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. one of two in the country. Like something out of old Mexico. Winnemucca. % 702-623-1500. % 702623-5025. Winnemucca. nabbing $32. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. 705 East Fourth Street. 602 Bridge Street. There is a gift shop next door. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. 95 Bridge Street. 352 Bridge Street. . Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. NV 89445. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. Winnemucca. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921.
36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. once a busy town of more than 2. The Rochester Mining District. Today about 100 people live in town. which serves as a meeting place and information center. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. after fending off resident Paiutes. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. Midas is two miles from this junction. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. along with the local watering hole. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Jungo. all but 250 people left. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. and 2. A 20th-century ghost town. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912.300 people had moved by 1913. The camp was abandoned by 1869.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. which . Three years later the village became Paradise City. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. the town was an empty shell. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. established Scottsdale in 1866. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. To reach the remains of the camp.
This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. The local mining. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. biking. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. beautiful high-country lake. (See Adventures. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. fishing and camping. Just south of town. located on the extreme east end of town. deli and soda fountain. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. offers a bar. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. (See Adventures and Camping. 1515 Idaho Street. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. Basque . The Northeastern Nevada Museum. It’s the white. In Winnemucca.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. % 702-623-5025. verdant marshes. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. obtain maps. % 702-578-3381. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. this town of about 25. A state park. % 702-7383418.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. Gas is also available. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. is easy to locate.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. Paradise Saloon. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. After all. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. this is Cowboy Country. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans.) In town. however. sometimes an angler’s paradise.
% 800-331-1212.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. % 800-8727245. For airport information. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Harris Field.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport.Touring n 139 immigrants. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. Displays of local wildlife. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. % 800-453-9417. 1 PM to 5 PM. also known as J. and Sunday. % 702-738-7123. 10 AM to 5 PM. . (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. 501 Railroad Street. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. Admission is free. % 800-654-3131. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. geology and industry abound.C. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. % 702-738-7508. The Western Folklife Center. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. Deweys Rent-A-Car. geography. % 702-738-5131. along with various other events throughout the year. and a charter airline. El Aero Services. Hertz Rent-A-Car. 9 AM to 5 PM.
passing Powerhouse picnic area. 89801. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. % 800-248-ELKO. At the . The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. (See Adventures and Camping. % 702-738-5171. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. Elko. 89803. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. From Elko.387 feet at Ruby Dome.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. 90. Elko. 3900 East Idaho Street. From town. % 702-738-7135. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. Elko. Elko Chamber of Commerce. with elevations ranging up to 11. 1601 Idaho Street. 700 Moren Way. 89801. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. 976 Mountain City Highway.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. Elko.800 feet). fishing and camping in the entire West. located southeast of Elko. Alpine vistas. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. % 702-753-0200. Humboldt National Forest. including the remote. 89801. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. is one of the most photographed churches in the West.
where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. is visible in the west. so drive cautiously. For access to both. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. turns south. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. is spectacular. rising 11. . the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. down into Jarbidge Canyon. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. Even when they are open. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. More than 1. From Wells. (See On Foot. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho.500 people flooded into the region. Ruby Dome. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. a high clearance vehicle is required. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time.Touring n 141 crest. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. From the south. and by the 1930s the rush was over. U-shaped valley. Idaho. this town sticks to Mountain Time. and there’s no argument here. The road leads east 21 miles. Yes. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. Nevada. the road meets the Jarbidge River. For details on all of this. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. see below. or call them at % 702-488-2315.387 feet. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. check with the owners of the Trading Post. then north another 25 miles.
Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. of course. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah.) On the Utah side of the state line. This is also the junction of US 93.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. exit at No. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. Before entering town. Sunday until 9 PM. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. n Wells From Elko. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. the main difference between the two sides being. n Wendover From Wells. For ghost town fans. % 801-665-7721. the 44. the main artery running up the east side of the state. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. To access the flats. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. stare out across the famous. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. which rises to 11. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. both available at the Trading Post.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. Cool. Bonneville Speedway Museum.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. and the 37. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. 4 and go five miles northeast. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . head east from the border. 647 Humboldt Avenue. the presence of casinos. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. The town was abandoned in 1942. % 702-752-3215. however. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. reached easily via a paved highway. try Stuart’s Foodtown. The range is also home to Angel Lake.
The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. is held in late March or early April. a . which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. June Both hay. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. which attracts upwards of 10.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. hawks. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out.000 buckaroos. falcons and ospreys are common.600 feet in two miles. which gains 1. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. The night before the events. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. Eagles. the historic World War II B-29s. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. % 702-664-3414.
The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. The town of McDermitt. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. The largest Basque get-together in the US.. Phone numbers can be found above. call % 702-635-8245. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. a parade and feats of strength. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. six.or 23-mile loop. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. In Wendover. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. hear the music and eat the food. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. when tanks. There is a traditional dance contest. Unless otherwise indicated. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. dancing. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. Near Wendover. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. For details. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. . the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. July In July. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. featuring food. under Touring.
then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. To reach the trail. willow and cottonwood country. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. crossing Buffalo Creek. passable by high-clearance vehicles. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. leads due east toward the highest point. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon.000 feet in four miles. climbing more than 4.834 feet). Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. The trailhead appears after three miles. Star Peak.200 feet. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. From here. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. which . go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. Chartered in 1989. Aspen. including the 31. Pronghorn antelope. This makes for a great loop drive. Falcon Press Publishing. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. Star Peak (elevation 9. the road. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. The trail is punishing. 1994. The first half of the moderately strenous. To reach the trailhead.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. From the top. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. Granite Peak (elevation 9. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak.732) is the highest point.
although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. Come prepared for anything. Horses are welcome on these trails. including Singas Creek. Mountain lions.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. narrow canyons. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. cirque basins. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. about one mile south of town. where you turn south. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. depending on weather conditions.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. % 702-623-5025. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. big horn sheep. Hikers can visit rock peaks. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. glacial lakes. USGS 7. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks.800 feet above sea .” Elevations range from 6. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home.415). Return the way you came.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers.6 miles to a parking area. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. more than 10. descends toward a watercourse.
Feel free.Adventures n 147 level. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. so check road conditions before heading out. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. as there are no trout here. At 10.500 feet. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. of course. % 702-738-7135. The pass is often closed in winter. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. Hyslop. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. After about a mile and a half.400 feet and heads north. The 1. The five-mile. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113.400 feet. set at 9. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. and his dog Molly. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. this is the high point of the trek. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. % 702-752-3357. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. know this region as well as anyone. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. Pause to rest but not to fish. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles.300-foot . to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. From Roads End. Franklin Lake NW. then descends again to cross Trout Creek.
700 feet. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. Just past the spring. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. Return the way you came. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. Wild- . USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. the closest town. On a good day. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip.000-foot mark.000 feet to 10. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. The trail drops again. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. From the trailhead. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. Unfortunately. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. Idaho. Finally. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. Most of the paths are found in the 113.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. subalpine forests.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. call % 702-758-6493.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. is also a good fishing spot. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. For more information. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. To reach the lake from Elko. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. and everything is open year-round. mountain whitefish. campsites and restrooms. supports brook. and black bass have become a favorite catch. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. The site has a paved boat ramp. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. rainbows. Channel cats. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. brown and rainbow trout. % 702-623-5025. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here.
at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko.000 acres. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. At the foot of the range. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. short-eared owl and American kestrel. including bald and golden eagle. . The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. trumpeter swam.154 n Cowboy Country ers. Turn left and head south 32 miles. so check road conditions before heading out. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. For more information. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. % 702-738-5171. white-faced ibis. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. To reach the refuge from Elko. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. elevation 8. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. For an easier drive from Wells. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. midway between the northern and southern portions. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. Angel Lake Near Wells. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge.800 feet. contact the US Forest Service. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. Within six miles of the trailhead. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. great sandhill crane.
Rainbow. are the best bets here. 423 South Bridge Street. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. Raley’s. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. % 702-7382775. crystalline Blue Lakes. 89833. 89833.400-acre lake. catfish. % 702779-2226. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. the spring-fed. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. % 702-625-2453. 89801. % 702-777-DIVE. 89801. 1250 Lamoille Highway. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. have become a local haven for divers. 89801. 89801. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. HC 60. % 702-7388473. % 702-7442277. % 702779-2268. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. % 702-664-3414. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. HC 60. 2511 Mountain City Highway. Elko Guide Service. HC30 Box 17 #13. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. In warmer months. PO Box 685. PO Box 515. the bowcut trout. To reach the 2. Grandview Marine. For more information. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. Secret Pass Outfitters. 285 12th Street.
there is a trout stream and pond near the property. The Lovelock Inn. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. . $-$$. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. ranging from 5. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. lodging and all the extras. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. % 702-538-7585. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. There is one chairlift and one surface lift.000 acres of skiable mountain. not to mention 74 rooms. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. % 702-738-7135. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. To reach the ranch from I80.500 feet. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. The outfit boasts 5. 1420 Cornell Avenue. Although there isn’t a television to be found. one tame and the other decidedly not so. restaurant. with a 24-hour casino. Trips are limited to 16 people.200 feet. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available.500 to 6. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. depending on snowfall. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. is the most happening place in town.200 vertical feet. then head west for five miles to town. Lunch and dinner are extra. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. $$. covering 5. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. pool and jacuzzi. is convenient to I-80. lounge. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. % 800-528-1234. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. % 702-753-6867. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. 2805 Unionville Road. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. $$$. % 702-273-2937. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. offers 130 acres of terrain. 55 Cornell Avenue. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. Elko SnoBowl.
000. % 702-738-8425. $$$$$. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. % 800-645-5658. $$. % 702-738-8421. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. $$-$$$$. % 800-633-6435. 1930 Idaho Street. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. % 702-623-5248. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. There are also two Best Westerns. offering 70 rooms. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. 3015 Idaho Street. % 702-623-3646. but also its own charter airline. $-$$. $$. casino. $$-$$$. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Days Inn. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Holiday Motel. and the generic. restaurant and full bar. The Red Lion not only has a casino. 400 1st Street. % 702-7387261. the Gold Country Motor Inn. the Red Lion Inn. % 800-545-0044. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. basic motels on the main drag. $-$$. There are plenty of cheap. and the Model T Motel. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. 2050 Idaho Street. a lounge with live entertainment. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. $-$$. 837 Idaho Street. eateries. is for you. the Super 8. The Gold Country Inn. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. $$. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. starting with the two biggies. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. in- . the Red Lion Inn. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-738-8787. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 2065 Idaho Street. $$. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. % 702-623-3661. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). the 170-room Holiday Inn. $$-$$$. % 702-623-1180. % 800-346-5306. $-$$. including the queen of Elko establishments. the Ameritel Inn Elko. $$. with 150 rooms. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. $$$. and the Motel 6. % 702-623-1116. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. offers 40 rooms. Casino Express. $$-$$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the 80-room Val-U Inn. % 702-625-1818. a pool and 223 rooms. % 800-262-8901. restaurant and bar.
is an exclusive. hiking and fly fishing. . Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. $$-$$$. $$-$$$. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. 345 Idaho Street. % 702-753-6363. % 702-738-7115. restaurants. has 70 rooms. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. $-$$. $$. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. There is even space for campers and RVers. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. bar and pool. PO Box 281381. Just outside of Lamoille. detached cabin with jacuzzi. Stonehouse Country Inn. 2401 Mountain City Highway. Jiggs Guest Ranch. Away from Idaho Street. The Shilo Inn. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. % 702-578-3530. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. $$$$. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. some with kitchenettes. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. 89828. % 702-738-8488. jacuzzi and fitness center. 1755 Idaho Street. $$$-$$$$. $-$$. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. and the Thunderbird Motel. $$$-$$$$. including skeet shooting. $$$-$$$$. Red’s Ranch. $-$$. % 702-738-5141. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. $$. Stockmen’s Hotel. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. % 702-753-6356. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. a swimming pool. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. 340 Commercial Street. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. along with a pool. % 702-738-5522. % 702-753-6281. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. Lamoille. PO Box 281208. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. biking and horseback riding. There are 141 rooms. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport.
% 702-488-2311. $-$$. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. $$-$$$. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. Down the street. and the Best Western Sage Motel. There are 57 rooms. 576 6th Street. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. if you’re into chains. 456 6th Street. % 702-752-3384. HC 62. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. % 702-752-2116. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. There are more than 1. % 800-848-7300. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. On Main Street.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. % 702-752-3888. $-$$. 1250 East 6th Street. % 702-752-2277. $-$$$$. has 56 rooms.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. 89826. Cottonwood Ranch. % 702-4082338. $. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. HC 62. 100 Wendover Boulevard. most of them planted along 6th Street. Jarbidge. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. $. % 702-752-3604. % 702-752-2101. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. the Rest Inn Suites. Together . $-$$. the Chinatown Motel. % 702-7523065. If not. $. and the Old West Inn. For more information. % 702-752-2151. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. PO Box 1300. $. % 702-488-2315. even by the neighbors in Utah. offers another 24 rooms. $$$-$$$$. PO Box 260090. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. the Outdoor Inn. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. which also has a restaurant and bar. 930 6th Street. 326 6th Street. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. PO Box 300. The Super 8. % 702-752-3353. On the north side of town. $$-$$$. $-$$.
lounges. jacuzzi. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. 410 Cornell Avenue. Nearby. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel.000-square-foot casino. $$-$$$. is open until 10 PM every day. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. live showroom entertainment. % 702-623-3197. lunch and dinner. Wee B’s Pizza & More. pool. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. and until 2 PM on Sunday. 485 Cornell Avenue. a 14. % 702-273-3232. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Mexican food and pizza. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. $-$$. % 800-648-9660. % 702-664-2888. is another gamer’s haven. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. which has live entertainment. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. offers breakfast. live entertainment. 1420 Cornell Avenue. La Casita. restaurants. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-273-2971. . tennis courts. which basks in the Basque tradition. along with daily specials. pool and jacuzzi. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. 260 Maine Street. shrimp and Basque side dishes. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. % 702-273-7773. % 702-273-7444. serving steak. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. the Super 8. 9 PM on Sunday. In the center of town. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. with 90 rooms. including restaurants and lounges. and Pizza Factory. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. % 800-537-0207. % 702-273-2442. leg of lamb. a health club. 750 Cornell Avenue. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. $$. The Peppermill Hotel.
% 702-738-5141. home of the world’s largest potato field. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. Stockmen’s Hotel. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. 180 Melarkey Street. seafood and chicken. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. % 702-738-9691. The atmosphere is definitely casual. Elko The Red Lion Inn. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. % 702-623-3455.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. all of their meat is cut to order. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. 1061 West Fourth Street. This being ranch country. Another Basque establishment. Restaurante San Fermin. Toki Ona. % 800-545-0044. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. % 702-623-6777. The Steak House. China Garden. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. 95 South Bridge Street. % 702-625-2555. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. % 702-623-4440. 340 Commercial Street. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. % 702-623-2908. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. 2065 Idaho Street. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Specializing in steak. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. 1550 Idaho Street. % 702-623-2977. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. while The Griddle. . Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. 405 Silver Street. since 1863. % 702-623-4104. % 702-738-3214. but get there before 1 PM.
1740 Mountain City Highway. % 702-4882315. Prices range from moderate to expensive. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. % 702-7382541. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). Pine Lodge. delivers on its name. If you crave Mexican food. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. . where it survived The Big One in ’06. to peruse the ornate bar. % 702-488-2311. % 702-753-3877. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. Burger Bar. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. 9 Beans and a Burrito. % 702-753-6356. 780 Commercial Street. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. % 702-753-6363. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café.300 souls. also serves hearty meals. 2525 Mountain City Highway. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. depending on weather conditions. % 702-738-1622. % 702-738-7088. % 702-752-3210. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. Pizza Barn. % 702-738-7898. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. Main and Humboldt Streets. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. opens daily at 11 AM. 217 Idaho Street. La Fiesta. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties.
Set at 7. two beautiful US Forest Service . Set at 7. $8 for a two-family site. 27 and 29 are especially good. The other one. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. The local creek runs in spring and early summer.600 feet. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. For modern hunter-gatherers. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. 680 Wendover Boulevard. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. For more information. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. For more information. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. call % 702-738-5171.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. 100 Wendover Boulevard. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. % 800-648-9660. just north of the dam. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. Sites 22. % 800-848-7300. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. Fees are $7 per night in summer. The fee is $7 per night. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site.400 feet. 25. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. For more information.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. offer 12 different restaurants. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. The Peppermill Hotel. There is running water and vault toilets. $3 per night in winter. which holds trout and walleye. 22 miles north of Lovelock. call % 800-962-2638.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. 23. the area has two campgrounds. call % 702-538-7321. located at the end of Hanson Street. The main draw here is 11.
There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. For information on the above campgrounds. % 702-752-3357. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. and the fee is $8 per night. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. with running water. all free. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. and are open June to October. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen.500 feet. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. first-served sites. but no running water. For more information. Set at 8. and the fee is $7 per night. Angel Creek is set at 6. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. One mile north of town. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. About five miles up NV 225. The fee is $5 per night. offering 18 sites with running water. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. depending on the availability of running water.800 feet and is popular with anglers. . The cabins are open October through mid-May.900 feet. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. including three run by the US Forest Service. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. has 37 first-come. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. % 208-5434129. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. The campground.
And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. an 11. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. both socially and physically. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. like Belmont and Rhyolite. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. writer. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. however. US For- B Pioneer Territory . Meanwhile. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. who once roamed this entire area. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. are in a state of “arrested decay. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. Others. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
affordable housing . Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. In the Mojave Desert. People and services are scarce. and six state parks to explore. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. temperatures routinely climb above 120°.000. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. Nevada Division of State Parks. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. but the rest of the country. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. In the lowlands. then limber pine at higher elevations. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. Toiyabe. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. Department of Defense.Touring n 167 est Service. Rocky Mountain elk. low taxes. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. Geographically. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards.
blue and white building. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. % 702-727-5800. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . On the south end of town in a modern. % 702-7270896. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. In 1997. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). there’s no competition). often overlooked corner of central Nevada. is the first and. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. It’s also one of the hottest. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. only winery in Nevada. mission-style. % 702-751-0821. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. authorizing up to 90. 3810 Winery Road. According to Winona LaDuke. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. 1141 South Highway 160. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. % 702-7276900. 1771 Sagehen Road. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. as of this writing. The 22. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year.
view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. snipe. for some handmade Mexican food. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. mallards. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. Box 610Z. Visitors can. then head west for about 20 miles. NV 89020. however.300 spread over 545 square miles. % 702-372-1131. Amargosa Valley. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. prairie falcons. great blue herons. coots. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. It’s no easy job. coyotes and rabbits. . the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. following the signs to Ash Meadows. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. HCR 70. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. including ducks. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. whitefaced ibises. moorhens. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. and the second-greatest in all of North America. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. inaccessible to the general public. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. % 702-372-5435.
The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building.000. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. 50 saloons. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. % 702-3725459. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. % 702-5532200. maps. 19 hotels. and the old train depot. for more information. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. Now recognized as a state historic site. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. Kelly’s Bottle House. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. NV 89020. HC 70. three newspapers. the gray.000 claims over 30 square miles. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. . PO Box 6102. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8.000. Amargosa Valley.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2.
Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information.000 dizzy with gold fever. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. however. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. when the money ran dry. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. crystal chandeliers. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. keeping a population of more than 20. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River.” a collection of white. .000 a day worth of ore in 1907. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion.000. Local residents were used as models. Once the largest city in the state. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. Today the remains of stone buildings. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. By 1920. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. In the first decade of the 20th century. life-size. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. constructed in 1908 for $500. % 702-553-2424. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. turn-of-the-century frontier community. Goldfield Founded in 1902.
Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. % 702-482-9676. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. % 702-485-6365. and spend a few hours following its trail. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. % 702482-3558. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. however. built in 1908 and still in use today. . and east-west-running US 6. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. the Central Nevada Museum. including the old post office that is now the local museum. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. Before heading out. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. 301 Brougher Avenue.
call % 702-482-5355. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. Admission is free. ore bins. As this is being written. power plants. 9 AM to 5 PM. Mineral. A library. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. which dates to 1906. and the 1907 George A. the town exploded – figuratively – and . park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. see below under On Foot. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. which total more than 260. including a map room.000 acres. are available by special request. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. The museum is open daily. As a judge. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. Like many Nevada locales. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. Located on the north edge of town. slide show and research facilities. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. For more on these wonderful regions. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. photographs and exhibits. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. For more information. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. which helped put the state on the map. with Hawthorne the new seat. Bartlett House. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. In 1911.
Near the northern tip of the lake. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. below. (See On Water.000 residents. at the corner of 10th and D streets. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. Take this road six miles to the town. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. % 702-945-3266. cameras and photography.000. The Mineral County Museum. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. The main attraction. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. just three miles from the California border. is nearby Walker Lake. restaurant and Native American gift shop. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. The museum is open Monday through Friday. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. % 702-945-5142. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. To reach Candelaria. fire and railroad equipment. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. 898 E Street. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked.500 people. Admission is free. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world.) Before heading to the lake. and by 1890 the good times were over. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. rocks. To see where it all started. minerals. wildlife and fossils. a combination truck stop. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. Nevada seat and the Mono . however. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. At the zenith of its existence. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. noon to 4 PM in winter. Victorian furniture. paved road on the right. the town boasted 1.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. Boats are not recommended. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. From . % 702-728-4467. native plants and unique rock formations. below). Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. From Caliente.200 feet. All of them offer overnight camping. There are 42 campsites. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. For information on any or all.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. but travel is not advised during winter months. is open year-round. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. pinyon and juniper forests. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. The park. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. set at 5. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. along with many other events. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. located in a long. The 2.
Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House.000. men in black and all things conspiratorial. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. hazy afternoon. There are 37 campsites. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. government cover-ups. Winter travelers might also find snow here. From Caliente. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. they ran up to $1 million. All told. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. % 702-962-5215. The original building costs totaled $16. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. for a walking/driving tour map. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. true believers theorize. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. Packed with historic points of interest.
sleeping quarters. a bar and cemetery. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. including the old mill. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. Ichthyosaurs. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. a thought scarier than any little green men. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. % 702-729-2515. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. selling souvenirs and literature. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. If you’re in the neighborhood. or fish lizards. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. The park is open all year.
The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. April. The hike begins on the road. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. The trail climbs nearly 2. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. June. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. mountain lion. then half a mile east. turn right. the highest point in Nevada at 13. where desert bighorn sheep. From here. August. From here go seven miles to a junction. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. For more information.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny.000 feet in 3½ miles. deer. call % 702-867-3001. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. July. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. following a stream into Trail Canyon. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. to NV 884.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. through Gabbs. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. Interpretive tours are held in March. elk. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. up through the sparse forest of . Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. There are numerous access points to the 115. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. The trail seems faint at times. To reach the park from Hawthorne. Located in the relatively dry. travel west six miles to NV 773. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. Return the way you came. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak.140 feet. October and November. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle.
The path descends further. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. where it crosses the water several times. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. another narrow. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. About 500 yards beyond the mill. up and up alongside the South Twin River.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. The 38. Consult Toms Canyon. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike.361-foot Arc Dome. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. too. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. the trail gains 1. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. nine miles from the trailhead. About a mile and a half later. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. limber pine. . notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. continues a steep ascent to another saddle.020-foot Peavine Peak. and at higher elevations.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. Pine Creek. The main trail leads straight ahead.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. USGS quads for Carvers NW. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. pinyon pine and juniper.
Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. which marks the way to Pine Creek. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. From Tonopah. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. Turn left and head toward the highest point. is lined with aspen and birch. The high point. Return the way you came. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. south. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. In fact. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. literally and figuratively. deer and coyote. is imposing Mount Jefferson. It was used as a hunting camp 5. going west. . 11. mountain lion. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. which tops out at 11. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. After turning west. The summit trail. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range.000 years ago.949 feet above sea level. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness.
it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. rugged country. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. so travel with care. climbing up the creek drainage. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . Hikers should have maps and a compass. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10.856foot Monitor Peak. From the trailhead. and the skills to use them. The 98. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. set aside in 1989. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. with Dry Lake off to the west. As you’ll see. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands.000 acres.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. Elk. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. The trail first splits at mile three. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. This is remote. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. To complete a nice loop hike. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. The main trail continues straight ahead. Head north 26 miles to Belmont.
the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. then continue south two miles back to the campground. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. . some will lead hikes and photography trips. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. then descending into Ash Canyon. Meanwhile. Also close by. Once atop the plateau. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. % 702-4826286. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. Enjoy the views. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. crosses the water and begins a steep. in Echo Canyon State Park. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. Wilderness Press. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. refer to Michael C.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. White’s masterful book. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. 1997.
108 feet. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. at 9. % 702-964-2145. Galvin. % 702-482-6422. 89049. 89430. 89025. Box 77206. turn left and head due south.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. % 702-964-1207. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. PO Box 428. HCR 60. Timberline Outfitters. % 702-463-4497. PO Box 1149. 89317. Smith. PO Box 168. % 702-465-2598. Yerington Marty S. Lewis. which. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. Howard. leaving a strenuous. 89045. Grand Slam Safaris. Expeditions Unlimited. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. 89447. unmarked hike to the summit. 8½ miles from US 95.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. Round Mountain William A. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. you’ve gone too far. PO Box 725. Timberline Outfitters. James S. 27 Smith Gage Road. Just beyond the right-of-way. Jr. then continues south to a junction. PO Box 65. % 702-283-7797. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. (If you pass Millers. PO Box 162. Berg. Moapa Adam R. Roy Lerg. Nicholas Perchetti. climbing into a small valley. The road turns east briefly.. 89045. Lund Gary Luisetti. Mason Valley Guide Service. Mustang Outfitters. Stahl. % 702-482-6258. 89049. .
Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. which was first settled in the 1860s. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. and Pine Creek. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. Manhattan boomed. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote .000 to construct in 1876. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. The other ruins are on private property. known for abundant wildlife. Belmont saw most of the 2. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. Continuing north. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. however. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. Just north of Pine Creek. % 702377-2490. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. For road conditions. is open for business on weekends. The Belmont Saloon. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. so keep your distance. % 702-482-6331. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. A few dozen people still live in the area. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness.
Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. As tempting as a bath might seem. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. Not only is the water very hot. then part of Utah Territory. . Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine.2 mile west of Lockes going south.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. mountain mahogany and aspen. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. From Pioche. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. The springs are half a mile away. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. the fauna changes to ponderosa. but check on road conditions before you go. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. For more information contact the BLM. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. Take an unpaved road . Wilson National Back Country Byway. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. Pioneer Territory Mt. Continuing north. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. to establish missions. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. stay out. % 702-482-7800. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. Three hot pools are found on two acres here.
Local services are available in the town of Dyer. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. % 702289-4865. 13. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. Just a mile north of Dyer. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. % 702-727-8276. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. cutthroat and rainbow trout. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent.140-foot Boundary Peak. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. Two of the best spots are Peavine . n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. Information Sources For more information and a map. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. so take the necessary precautions before heading out.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. 5340 South Oakridge Road. At Oakridge Landing. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. % 702727-4504. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. brown. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. contact the BLM. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked.
000 acres. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. Fishing derbies are held in February. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. The lake is named for Joe Walker. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. April. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. In fact. . picnic facilities and boat ramp. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. After the road peters out. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land.7 miles north of Hawthorne). a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. Covering 37. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. % 702-482-6286. however.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River.4 miles). Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. October and November. rainbow and brown trout.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach.
93514. are the main attraction here. for details. Howe. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. but motors are prohibited. CA. % 702-725-3417. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. Brown trout. NV 89415. Bishop.000 acres. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Boaters are welcome. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Classic Anglers. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. about 13 miles south of the confluence. Contact the refuge office. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. while Canada geese. Kathleen L. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. which are stocked in spring and fall. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). % 760-872-2533 . largemouth bass and white crappie. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 633 Schley Street. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. write the group at PO Box 867. % 702-394-4040. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. Hawthorne. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped.
89447. 89049. Timberline Outfitters. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. % 702-3721717. 89049. 89104. Jr. % 702-482-6258. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. % 702-964-2145. Berg. Suite 9B. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. % 702-482-6422. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. James S. Galvin. 89045. Advance reservations are highly suggested. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. PO Box 168. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. Tonopah Stanley R. home on the range. PO Box 725. Howard. Mason Valley Guide Service. HCR 60. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. % 702-889-8844. The family-style outings. Stahl. Timberline Outfitters.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. Mustang Outfitters. The big enchilada is Saddle West.. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. 89045. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. Nicholas Perchetti. % 702-964-1207. 1220 South Highway 160. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. PO Box 1149. PO Box 65. Box 77206. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . at least temporarily. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge.
lounge. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. $-$$. 1201 South Highway 160. has 32 rooms. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. a casino with live 21. % 800-508-9493. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. The other two motels are the El Portal. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. along with a pool and honeymoon room. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. $. % 702-553-2333. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. $-$$. hair salon. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. including a heated pool. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. US 95 at First Street. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. non-smoking rooms and a pool. Don’t worry. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. $-$$. a restaurant. while the inn offers laundry services. $-$$. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. $-$$. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. % 702-553-2250. casino and lounge. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. % 702553-2912. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. In short. The Exchange Club Motel. With 110 rooms. 604 Main Street. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. % 702-553-2225. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. % 702-727-5100. a convenience store. was built in 1905. which has 30 rooms and a pool. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. $-$$. % 702-4853431. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. though. $. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. % 702-727-5445.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. There are 60 rooms. 9000 North 5th Avenue. $-$$. . A lounge with live entertainment. 420 West Main Street. $-$$. Highway 160 at Loop Road. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant.
$. with 40 rooms. $. Just a block away. workout equipment. % 702-482-6238. The Jim Butler Motel. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. This place has it all: 75 rooms.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. Some of the larger. 1100 Main Street. 540 F Street. 323 Main Street. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. RV parking and free continental breakfast. The . lounge. with a restaurant. $. $-$$. 1402 5th Street. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. the Butler has 25 rooms. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. % 702-482-6202. a casino. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. two restaurants. Location. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. a heated pool and a small play area. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. including four two-bedroom units. 100 North Main Street. % 702-482-6224. lounge with entertainment. $$. a casino. % 702-482-9777. 700 Main Street. % 702-945-2444. Adjacent to Walker Lake. % 702-945-2660. $$. % 702-945-3352. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. 521 North Main Street. has 39 rooms. $. % 702-482-3577. pool and free in-room coffee. and the 33-room Clown Motel. 1301 5th Street. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. a Jacuzzi and a pool. % 702-945-3321. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. $. $. location. Even dogs are welcome. at very reasonable rates. Dating back to 1908. $. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. % 702-482-3511. % 702482-5920. It has 94 rooms. restaurants. also has a pool. 826 Main Street. The Best Western Desert Lodge. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. arcade and laundry. and the sprawling Station House. 1 Cliff House Road. $. % 702-482-6291. a restaurant and free coffee. 255 Main Street. If you’re into chains. comes highly rated. $. There are 103 rooms. 100 South Main Street. which has 93 rooms. free movies and is close to the convention center. a restaurant and bar. RV hookups. has been catering to travelers since 1943.
RV park and four bungalows. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. 2827 Highway 208. pool. % 702-945-2544. 720 Sierra Highway. % 800-621-0187. on the corner of 5th and J streets. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. % 800-896-4567. % 800-346-4611. restaurants. Jacuzzi. a pool. family fun center and an airport shuttle. $-$$$. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. formerly Players Island. % 702-945-2143. and the Rocket.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. % 702-945-2573. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. pool and spa. $.900 or so residents. the Hawthorne. $-$$. a pair of family-style restaurants. % 702-945-3316. . 11 North Main Street. % 800-346-7721. bars.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. % 702-465-2341. $-$$. Just west of Smith in Wellington. 965 Sierra Highway. 39 North Center Street. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Jacuzzi. which at last count had 1. $. bowling alley. fitness center and live music. with a 24-hour casino. 390 North Sandhill Road. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. airport shuttle. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. live entertainment. tennis courts. pool and movie theater. a golf course. % 702-463-2998. Run by the Masini family.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. % 702-463-2991. $. golf course. $$-$$$. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. pool. $$. including dozens of suites. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. Jacuzzi. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. movie theater and kids’ play area. has five rooms. % 702-465-2959. % 702-463-2481. which has two non-smoking rooms. $$-$$$. has 67 rooms. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. 694 Sierra Highway. entertainment. a 925-seat showroom. a lounge. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. has 700 rooms. To find a quieter environment. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. $$. with blueprints for hundreds more. $$-$$$. a pool and a hot tub. The Casa Blanca. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. % 702-465-2573. which has 14 rooms. 301 Mesa Boulevard. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. $-$$. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. which has 14 rooms. various restaurants. $. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. $-$$. % 702-346-7444. $$.
450 Front Street. % 702-727-7777. 1220 South Highway 160. . 884 A Street. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. a restaurant and bar. % 702-727-2404. % 702-727-7300. % 702726-3777. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. $-$$. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. $-$$. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. % 702-9625404. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. Besides. 601 South Highway 160. % 702-727-6440. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. $. which has 22 rooms. pharmacy and bank. No fast food. $.99. % 702-729-2515. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. % 702-962-5551. and welcomes pets. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. Flying saucer parking is out back. is open 24 hours a day. and the buffet starts at $2. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. % 702-727-0909. $. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. % 702-751-7777. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. 100 West Stagecoach Road.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. At Saddle West Casino. Stagestop Casino. which has five rooms. % 702-726-3106. % 702-726-3291. also have full-service restaurants. 100 LaCour Street. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. the Silver Spur. $. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. Rose Garden. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. has 13 rooms. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter.
% 800-4-BIG-WIN. is the home of two restaurants. % 702-945-1700. Traditional American and Continental fare. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. % 702482-9777. has a great $7. open until 9 PM. 570 E Street. try Happy Buddha. % 702-945-3320. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. 348 North Main Street. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. 785 E Street. % 702-482-6202. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. 923 5th Street. % 702-4823885. also has a 24-hour café. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. % 702-9452994. The . Maggies. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. % 702-5532225. The Station House. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. 100 North Main Street. % 702-463-2481. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. % 702-553-2111. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. fill the menu. including excellent seafood. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. 1100 Main Street. Yerington Casino West. you could do worse than El Marques. also have family-style restaurants. % 702-945-3321. 11 North Main Street. 501 I Street. % 702-945-5253. 540 F Street. % 800508-9493. The Exchange Club. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. % 702-945-3908. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. % 702-945-2727. % 702-553-2368. and Burro Inn. 1291 5th Street. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar.
% 702463-2868. has a 24-hour coffee shop. To reach the campground from Tonopah.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. Dini’s Luck Club. % 702-463-2054. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. The Casa Blanca. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. along with the usual buffet. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . % 702-4623300. lunch and dinner. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. satisfying and never-ending. Peavine Campground is set at 6. 45 North Main Street. is like a blast from the 50s. There’s even an indoor workout facility. % 800-621-0187. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. Carl’s Burgers. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. serves breakfast. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. % 800-346-7721. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. % 800-896-4567.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. 2281 West Scales Way. % 702-4633707. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. % 702-727-2314. The Mason Valley Country Club. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. 11 North ALT 95. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. The Virgin River Hotel. 702-726-3138. Two blocks up. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. which serves breakfast. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. 111 Highway 208. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. % 702-7263194. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free.
above. To reach the campground from Tonopah. For information. There are 11 sites set at 6. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. To reach the campground from Tonopah.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. There is no running water and no fee. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. see On Foot. the unpaved road goes south briefly.100foot level. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. % 702-945-3373. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont.700 feet. % 702-687-6100. The campground is another three miles away. providing access to fishing and hiking. From Tonopah. through Belmont. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. For directions. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. offers sites for $11 per night. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. From here. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. % 702-4826286.800 feet in the Monitor Range. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. . The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. contact the BLM.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson.
Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. Frank Amato Publications. Noonday Press. Falcon Press Publishing. American Automobile Association. published by the State of Nevada. They are listed in alphabetical order. 1995. 1990. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. DeLorme. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. 1994. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. David Communications. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. Moon Publishing. 1997. 1997. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Suggested Reading . American Automobile Association. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. 1995. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Falcon Press Publishing. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. 1998. Basin and Range by John McPhee. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. 1996. 1993. 1993. Henry Holt and Company. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada.
Legend and Description by David J. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. American & Geographic World Publishing. 1995. 1992. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. White. The Globe Pequot Press. Roughing It by Mark Twain. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. Wilderness Press. Falcon Press Publishing. Bischoff. Falcon Press Publishing. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. La Siesta Press. 1993. Jr. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. Clark. Gem Guides Book Company. 1997. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. . Mojave Books. Stolley. 1993. Maturi.. 1997. 1997. 1969.
131. 78. Reno-Tahoe area. Lovelock Indian Cave. camping. 182. 181-182 bighorn sheep.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. 146. 3135. Reno-Tahoe area. 28. 17. see water sports car rental. 48-49. events. Leonard Rock Shelter. 132. 125-128. 198. 117. see transportation air tours. 200 Basque people. 169. 104-107. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 77. 124 auto racing. biking. wagon trips. accommodations. 179. fishing. see also petroglyphs. accommodations. 169-170 Anasazi people. 2. 43-44. restaurants. Cottonwood Valley. biking. 135. 199-201. Pony Express territory. see transportation Carson City. camping. 118. Las Vegas area. see also zoos. 10-12. 32. 144. 152. pictographs art galleries. 46. 192 Big Smoky Valley.183. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 119-120. 174 canoeing. 193-197. restaurants. touring. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 115-116 ballooning. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 120-123. restaurants. Pioneer territory. camping. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 118. Pony Express territory. 184. 123. 168-169. camping. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 17. hiking outfit- Index . Reno-Tahoe area. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 76. safety rules. 187-190. 54-55. 26-27 buses. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 8386. 121. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. transportation. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. safety rules. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 187-188 biking. 164. Las Vegas. 89. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 15-16. 144. 174-175 Austin. Elko. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 129-130 bungee jumping. 152. 154 animal life. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 144 backpacking. 15-16. Mount Jefferson. 179. 15-16 bird watching. 186 Belmont. 197. 177 Angel Lake: camping. events. touring. 117-119. 113. 29. price scale. 92-96. special events. 199. 86. 36. 38. 27. 103. 75-76. touring. touring. 10. 27 books. 49. 163-164. 182-183. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 137 Candelaria. 94-95. skydiving. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. Ichthyosaur State Park. 142. 142. 181-182. 185. festivals. biking. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 187-190. 67 bowling. outfitters. fishing. hiking. 42 burros. restaurants. 104. 194. 183-184. camping. wild. Las Vegas territory. 85. 156160. 102. 78 BLM. Pioneer territory. 115. Bonneville Salt Flats. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 50-52. 155 boating. 126. 67-70. 193. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. horseback riding. 193 Aurora. 200 altitude sickness. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 13. hiking. Pony Express territory. 41-43. specific towns airlines. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 117-118. 35. 132-133. 194. 198. see also camping. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. Pioneer territory. 13-15. 91 Barley Creek. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park.
182. 139. 79. touring. Reno-Tahoe territory. 14 Colorado River. 6-7 ters. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 118. 177. 112. 18-19 climbing. Eberhardt. 200 Cowboy Country. 137. Metropolis. touring. 178. 160 Goshute Mountains.. 75. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. outfitters. fishing. touring. 116. 167. restaurants. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 98 fossils. 142 Great Basin. 115 Gold Center.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. special events. 70. 109 Glacier Trail. accommodations. Pony Express territory. 152-155. 86. Northumberland Cave. 171-172 Gold Point. 120-121. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 22. 4. Dunn Hatchery. Lake Tahoe area. 142. 177. 139140 Ely. 100. 121. 137. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 186 elk. 172 golf. 116-117. hiking outfitters. sport-climbing ratings. Treasure City. skiing. 3. 155-156. transportation. Las Vegas area. restaurants. 174. 109. 175 climate. accommodations. 17. hiking. 188-189 Clemens. 179. 147-148 Eberhardt. camping. 119-120. 186 Cave Lake State Park. Candelaria. Reno-Tahoe area. camping. 187-190. Shermantown.5 Cathedral Gorge. Pioneer territory. outfitters. 192. 188-189 fishing. 190-193. 176. Camp Winfield Scott. 44-48. 106. 112. 125. 139 cruises. Cowboy country. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 73. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. Rochester Mining District. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 190 . 179. 163-164. 12. 149-150. John C. 78 casinos. Lovelock Indian Cave. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 89. 185. 83. biking. 88. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 180 Earth Connections. 124. 102-104. camping. 122-123. Gold Center. 121-122. camping. 194-195. 43-44. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 40. 168. 117. outfitters. 97. 74. 169. 143. Las Vegas territory. fishing. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. Rhyolite. 137. Lehman Caves. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 13-15. touring. 15-16. Samuel. 126. outfitters. 170-171 Denio Junction. 161-162. 171. 77. 170. 110. 111. 35-36. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 153 Chimney Springs. camping. hiking. Midas. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 125. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. springfish. Toquima Cave. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 144. 150-151. 29. 37-41. 109. Las Vegas area. 82. see events fish. fishing. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. hiking. 134-135. restaurants. 174-175. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. events. 74 Death Valley National Park. fishing. accommodations. restaurants. 87 Dayton. safety rules. 184. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 138-139. horseback riding. restaurants. 4-5 Gardnerville. 65 gambling. Hamilton. 109. 112 Genoa. 157-158. 80. touring. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 67. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 106 diving. 179. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. camping. Jungo. mercury warnings. 132-133. Pioneer territory. 46 Comstock Lode. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 126-127. 143-144. camping. 125. auto racing. 137. 185. 131. 93 Davis Creek County Park. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 15-16 Fremont. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 119. 127. camping. 70-71. 152. 119. pupfish. 120. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 75. 176. 170. 12. 98. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 179. 155. 108 events: Cowboy country.
99-100. 66. 41. camping. 119 Index . fishing. touring. skiing. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 162. 159. 90 helicopter tours. 3536. outfitters. description of. 46. 158. 149. events. Las Vegas area. 24. 148-149 Humboldt River. watersports. 29-31. map. 120 Incline Village. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 186-187. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 137 kayaking. touring. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 112-117. Kyle Hot Spring. biking. 164. 41-43. 83. 39. transportation. 162. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 32-33. 106. 82. 47. 82. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. balloning and soaring. 107. 98. touring. 166. 177 mercury warnings. transportation. 21-22. 181-187. touring. 63-66. camping. 78-79 Jungo. 57-58. 195-196. 40-41. 132 Lexington Arch. air tours. restaurants. fishing. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 111. 60. 88. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. horseback riding. biking. 148-149 jeep tours. 28. 130. snow sports outfitters. 44 Las Vegas territory. 188-189. Pony Express territory. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 125. 90. Pioneer territory. 65. hiking. Midas Hot Spring. touring. 110-112. 117 hotels. 20. 151. 193. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 141-142. hiking. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 179 Kingston. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. transportation. outfitters. 165-167. 46. 48. 80-81 hiking. Las Vegas territory. touring. camping. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. touring and transportation. 176. 75. Reno-Tahoe territory. Nevada. 156. 48-49. 149-150. 83. accommodations. 145-150. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. hiking outfitters. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 83-84. 36. special events. 102. 23-29. 116-117. 47 lakes. 32-33 Lake Mohave. see air tours Hemenway Park. restaurants. 40. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 54. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 32 horseback riding. Pony Express territory. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 64. Walley’s Hot Springs. 78. camping. 153. 43. skiing. 50-52. camping. 200-201. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. Reno-Tahoe territory. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. touring. Las Vegas territory. Pony Express territory. 39 history: Cowboy country. 55. outfitters. 37-40. 1-6 Hoover Dam. events. 146. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 62. boating outfitters. camping. restaurants. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. Pioneer territory. Las Vegas. Reno. 150. 103 Hamilton. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. 64. hiking. hiking outfitters. 1. 129-131. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 163. Pioneer territory. 52-53. 31-35. restaurants. state. 91 information sources. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 192. hiking. camping. 101. 91-92. 118 Lone Mountain. 37-41. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. restaurants.Index Great Basin National Park. 53-54. camping. 198. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. water sports. 45. 46. 79. 150. 4WD trail. 160. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 38. 13-15. 118. 93. 140-141 land. 77. 86. Cowboy country. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 49-50. restaurants. 187 Manhattan. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 127. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. RenoTahoe territory. 152. 57.
72-73. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 98. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. Churchill County Museum & Archives. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 109-110. 67. Central Nevada Museum. 187 Mojave Desert. 127 pictographs. Keck Minerals Museum. Stewart Indian Museum. 196197. 177. Las Vegas Art Museum. 135136. 23. 173. 26. Brewery Arts Center. 188. 175. 142 Midas. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 197-198. 61. hiking. 200. Nevada State Railroad Museum. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 2. 79. 180 Minden: events. 158. 2. 61. Nevada Historical Society. restaurants. 167-168 Paiutes. fishing. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 199. 34. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. Colorado River Museum. 73. see accommodations motorcycles. 189-190 Muir. 177. 142. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 174. 174. 175. National Automobile Museum. The Castle. 10. 102. 109. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 69. 26. 193-194. restaurants. hiking outfitters. 199 Metropolis. 107. skiing and snowboarding. camping. Genoa Courthouse Museum. see biking Mount Charleston. outfitters. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 103. Piper’s Opera House. 108. 25. 174. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. Marshall Mint Museum. Humbolt Museum. Capitol Building and Museum. 165 nuclear waste. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 25. 139. 86. 26. 91. Mark Twain Museum. 73. touring. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 29 Mount Jefferson. 199-200. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. Lyon County Muserum. 78. Desert Valley Museum. 77. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 200 motels. White Pine Public Museum. 70. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 173. 3-4. 73. camping. see events Naval Air Station Fallon.206 n Index seum. see biking mountain biking. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 43. 61. 32. horseback riding. 35. 153. 25. 25-26. 139. 61 music and theater. 29. Nevada State Library & Archives. Western Folklife Center. 170. 134 petroglyphs. 165. 69. 83. accommodations. 68. Wilbur D. The Way It Was Museum. Marzen House Museum. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 23 Overton: touring. 177. 135. 171. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 73. 71. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 107. 34. 4. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 61. 33. 8182 Mesquite. fishing. Liberace Museum. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 26. 171. 69. 72. 153 Northumberland Cave. 25. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 181 Moapa. 183. 71. 71. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 70-71 mines and mining. John. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 68. Clark County Heritage Museum. Roberts House Museum. 80-81 Native American festivals. 69. 126. touring. 34. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 178. hiking. 106 Pine Creek: camping. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 68. 31. fishing. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 11 Mosquito Creek. Guinness World of Records Museum. 34. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 133. Fleischmann Planetarium. 69. May Museum and Arboretum. Lost City Museum. 163. Mineral County Museum. 2. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 43. 8. 4. 25. 73. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. Nevada State Mu- . touring. 75. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 106 nuclear testing. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 173.
192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 104. 54. 167. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. biking. 173 Index . horse. 186-187. 197. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 77-78. hiking. 179 Searchlight. fishing. 129-130. climbing and hiking. 49-50. 96-97. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 143 Rachel. 123-125. restaurants. hiking. 144. 89-91 skydiving. 179. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 165-201 plant life. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 143. 145 Stateline: accommodations. touring. touring. 197 rafting. auto. 193. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 12. 98. 9-10. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 9 Sand Mountain. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. accommodations. special events. Las Vegas area. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. camping. see climbing springfish. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 13 Price Lakes. 114-115 theater. 163. Reno-Tahoe area. 144. see events price codes. skiing. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 79. see mines and mining skiing. 87. transportation. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 180. 163. biking. 115. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 134. accommodations. 176 rodeos. touring. 198. 106 Siegel. 85. 92-93. 90 sport climbing. 170 rivers. 65 Pony Express territory. 142. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. see climbing rock hunting. 138 rock climbing. 117. fishing. hiking. 144. 91. 79-80. snow sports outfitters. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 48-49 snowboarding. 17. 197-199. 17. hiking. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 94 special events. 59-61. 78. motorcycle. 187. 93-94. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 66. 78.Index Pioche: accommodations. 90 soaring. 193. hiking and climbing. 160-163. 150-151. restaurants. skiing. 195. 54. 109 Shoshone people. 190. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 9697. RenoTahoe area. 163-164. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 42. 53-54. 185-186. restaurants. 88 Shermantown. Las Vegas territory. camping. 113. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 74 races.” 4 silver. 84-85 swimming. 200 temperature chart. 156. 153 Sparks. Pony Express territory. Pioneer territory. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 84. 76. 83-84. outfitters. water sports. 181. 98. Benjamin “Bugsy. 154. fishing. 17. 36. fishing. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 180 Pioneer territory. 146-147. bike. 88. 76. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. biking. touring. 82. 26-27. 52 pupfish. 112. 146. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. see events Round House Art Gallery. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 106 Spooner Lake. 17. 169 Pyramid Lake. camping. see skiing snowmobiling. 77. 88 Star Peak: hiking. fishing. 145-146 prostitution. 76. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. camping. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 89. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 80 pronghorn antelope. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. camping.
144. 188-189. restaurants. touring. 162. 155. Pioneer territory. 26-27. 110. camping. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 71. 149. 174. hiking. 160-161. 62. Ruby Mountains. 143. 79-80. 29-30. 77-78. 191 UFOs. 31. 61. Reno-Tahoe territory. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. camping. 45. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 112. special events. touring. 193 Walker Lake. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 167. hiking. 71-74 Virgin River. High Rock Canyon. restaurants. camping. Amtrak. 155. 164. 174 walking. Winnemucca. 55. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 97. 39 vineyards. 153-154. horseback riding. 62. 83. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 172. Ruby Marsh. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. touring. 34-35. climbing and hiking. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 76. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 185. 144. 32. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 176 Yerington: accommodations. Mark. 193. fishing. 102. 135-137. 134-135 Twin River: fishing.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. 119-120. 139. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. outfitters. 30-31. 163-164. 139-140 Treasure City. 75. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. Las Vegas territory. 168 zoos. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. camping. events. 152-155. outfitters. 143. 150. 80-81. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Goshute Mountains. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 182-183. 145-146. 159. hiking outfitters. Walker Lake. 200-201. water sports. Cleve Creek Campground. camping. Wilson Canyon. 109 trees. 147-148. 127. 187. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 183-184. Pioneer territory. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 179. 67. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 62. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. events. 191-192. events. 176. 95. 156-157. 176 wineries. 33. restaurants. Pony Express territory. 199. 159-160. 38. restaurants. touring. 35. 196. 111. 155 . 89. hiking outfitters. 86 Wells: accommodations. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 85. 31. Lake Mead. 146. 151 Wilson Canyon. Arc Dome Wilderness. camping. Hemenway Park. hiking. see plant life tufas. 150. 106 trains. buses. Echo Canyon State Park. touring. Santa Rosa Mountains. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 190-193. 41. see transportation transportation: airports. 157. 20. 177. 68. Table Mountain Wilderness. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 163. 73. 44-48. 178. outfitters. Earth Connections. rental cars. 192. 117. 168-169. 127. 80. fishing. restaurants. touring. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 134 Twain. 66. 151 Wovoka. 98. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 104. wildlife and bird watching. Jack’s Valley Road. 117 Toquima Cave. 25 Topaz Lake. 29.
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