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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. Among the 50 states.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. pausing on . Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. as the top tourism destination in the US. For anyone who loves the outdoors.” and for good reason. According to author John Hart. bison. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. you can have the whole wild. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. In fact. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. however. In fact. which covers most of Nevada. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. that’s good news. you’ll know better. About 27 million of them. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. These mammoths. horses. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. Florida. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. half-pound hot dogs.500 and 10. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. giant sloths. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year.
By about 500 AD. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. . however. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. including southern Nevada. Exactly 50 years later. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. The Northern Paiutes. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. points. Many prime archeological sites.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. the first European entered Nevada. His party wintered in California. shells. In 1776. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. hand tools. In the south. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. wetlands and springs. fish hooks. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. Jedediah Smith. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. followed in Garces’ footsteps. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. established trade routes. In the 12th century. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC.
entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. Eight years later the first wagon train. with Brigham Young as governor. and headed over the Sierras. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). swelling the population well into five figures. In 1843 and ’44. Nevada became a state on Halloween. but the Utah Territory government. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. 1864. In 1859. Introduction . dominated by the church. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west.History n 3 In the north. and. but abandoned it two years later. DC. In 1830. The Comstock Lode. encountering Pyramid Lake. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. the Mormons were the first white residents. In 1833. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. was dispatched to map the area. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. John C. which helped open the gateway to the West. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. In 1849. covering most of Utah and Nevada. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. the church established the State of Deseret. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. then returned east along the route the next year. as it came to be called. Fremont. By 1857. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. camping at Las Vegas. who would later become a war hero. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. In 1845. continued to oversee Nevada.
000 people in 1960. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. son of Winnemucca. Then in 1966. the Big Bonanza. bringing town sites. signed a treaty with the federal government. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. the first true hotel-casino. In 1873. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. began making money and the boom was on. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. commerce and industry. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. then underground tests for 30 more. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. upscale Vegas. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. Howard Hughes sud- . Reno and the surrounding areas. Carson City. violence escalated. later known as the Nevada Test Site. the mother of all lodes. was struck in Virginia City. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. opened in 1950. In 1855.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. In the teens and ’20s. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. but was ambushed. Meanwhile. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. Streets were laid out. the Flamingo soon reopened. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. killed two-thirds of them. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. then picked up again in the early 1900s. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. In 1860. Ironically. Siegel’s vision. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. Warriors under Numaga. Winnemucca. In 1874. was of a classy. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. particularly in southern Nevada. however. chief of the Northern Paiutes.
Fallon and Mesquite. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. miners. By 1970. today there are master-planned communities. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. Mom and their 2. This time. The entire West will be watching what transpires. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. are reaping the windfall. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. How much is too much. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. Winnemucca. a land dominated by a mobile population.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. find enough water. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. trappers. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. places like Elko. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. DC. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. . spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. But the explosion has not been without fallout. moving to the region in record numbers. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. however. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. To many. and Americans have become moths to the flame.
Nevada even has its own 10. Get the idea? After all. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. with nine ranges topping 11. The roof of Nevada is 13.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. towers over Great Basin National Park. The notion of Nevada as a flat. lakes. across a sagebrush-covered basin. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. gurgle through the northern part of the state. down a range. the Carson and the Humboldt. and so on. down another range. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas.000 feet. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. reservoirs and other watery bodies.063 feet. Depending on who’s counting. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. 13. then disappear into their respective “sinks. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges.000 feet in the space of a few miles.839foot Matterhorn. On the other side of the state. Wheeler Peak. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. Fremont in 1844. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. dry.000 feet to nearly 12. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. In fact. Yes. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. Near Las Vegas. Named by explorer John C. then up another range. The Colorado River . the Spring Mountains soar from 2. hills and uplands.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. In the north. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Here.
Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. In the 1970s.000 acres. In 1989. the southeastern corner of Nevada. establishing 77. it’s an uphill climb all the way. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state.000-acre Great Basin National Park. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. the largest alpine lake in North America.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985.000 years ago covered 8.500 square miles of western Nevada. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. only 65. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. Lower and drier. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . including Las Vegas and Laughlin. For the greens. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. are the only reliable. most notably Lake Tahoe. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. in the remote north near Jarbidge. natural sources of running water. a great inland sea that 50. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery.
Death Valley. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. Still. The recommendations have been under review for years. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. greasewood. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata).000 feet. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks.000 feet above sea level.000 and 8. Apart from aspens. The squat Utah juniper. At elevations above 6. such as rabbitbrush. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. 14 national recreation areas. the soil supports . then whittled that down to less than two million acres. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. horsebrush and shadescale. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. with its tiny. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. is generally found throughout the state between 5.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. In the wetter western Nevada ranges.
western white pine. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely.000 feet. hedgehog and barrel. The king of Great Basin vegetation. willow and dogwood. ponderosa pine. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. up to 5. Washoe pine. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. Above the desert floor. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. which make up just 1% of the land. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. the mountain lion. along with alder. creosote bush has an oily.000 years. hallucinogenic sacred datura. lodgepole pine. Black bears. bristlecone pine. The rare. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. The Joshua tree. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. which is actually a type of yucca. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. blooms by night here. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. prickly pear. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. the official state grass. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. or jimson weed. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. At the other extreme. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. however. In the mountains. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years.
golden and Dolly Varden . brown. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. In the air over the desert. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. weasel. fox. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. Trout are the favorite of anglers. America’s two poisonous spiders. greater roadrunner. burrowing owl and canyon wren. redtailed hawk. the black widow and brown recluse. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. prairie falcon. kangaroo rats. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. help comes from hunters. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. Meanwhile. with Lahontan cutthroat. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. chuckwalla. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. Ironically. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. Gambel’s quail. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. brook. pika. also live in the Mojave. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. Blacktail jackrabbits.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. seen on Nevada’s license plates. rainbow. while mule deer are abundant. The desert bighorn sheep. skunk. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. coyote. badger. Snakes include several types of rattlers. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. beaver.
covering its history. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. like almost every other Nevada visitor. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. culture and most attractive features. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. This section also includes sources for expert information. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. Cowboy Country. such as visitors bureaus. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. broken down by specific locales. Reno-Tahoe Territory. on land. on water. A section on Touring follows. on snow and in the air. Along with detailed information on where to go.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information.
. . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . $100 to $175 $$$$ . Hiking. . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . . . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . . . . . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . . $50 to $100 $$$ . forethought and patience. . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period.12 n Introduction ing chart. . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . . Trails may be gone. . . Backpacking. . . . . Up to $50 per day $$ . . . . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . . . . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . . . . . . Finally.
Adventures n 13 Finally. the most popular among serious rock climbers. so help is usually a long way away. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. For Class 5 routes.Climbing. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .0 to . . The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada.Easy hiking. using the hands.14 (and sometimes beyond).Boulder hopping. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. ranging from . As this guide goes to press. Class 2 . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. known as the Yosemite Decimal System.0 to . the lower numbers (. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . occasionally using hands Class 4 .Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 .
until all holds disappear at . these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. dehydration and lightning. legend. Be aware of conditions. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. If the plan changes. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. Beyond that. Storms are more common in the afternoon. not hard-and-fast rules. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. taking into account personal experience. climbing partners. Always take fresh water with you.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. Begin hiking early in the day. Pack spare everything – food. As with all outdoor activities. Give them descriptions of yourself. climbers enter the realm of myth. In the arid country of Nevada. then amended by subsequent climbers. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. clothing. Assistance can take hours or days. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. By their nature. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. n n n n n . check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. use common sense before you get into trouble.10. Don’t travel alone.
preferably one with a large gas tank. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. spare belts. but a powerful. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. water and fluids. . tools. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. Arizona. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. four-wheel-drive vehicle. high-clearance job. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. jack. extra gas. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. Not one of those trendy.
stay put. 85096. however. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. . Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. AZ.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. left out of popular literature. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. Mountain biking in Nevada. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. in wilderness areas). Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. Do not ration water. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. is more popular than ever. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. n If you have water. when you left and where you are headed. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. minimize talking and eating. leave a note telling searchers who you are. PO Box 39340. drink it as needed. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. For more information on desert survival. of course. n If you find a traveled road. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. Phoenix. The rest of Nevada. n If water is in limited supply. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. stay on it. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. contact DARES.
created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Meanwhile. but take extra care. there are all types of sky-high adventures. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Ballooning.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Skydiving. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. Fishing. lakes and reservoirs. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. there are tourists. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. and gigantic Lake Mead. And where there are tourists. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. At these higher elevations. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. the gem of the Sierras. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. Many streams. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. Soaring Where there is Vegas. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams.
get out of lowlying areas. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. . Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. In the Great Basin. Leave the high altitudes as well. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. throwing rain. on the Colorado River. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. although they can occur at any time of year. Summer and early fall can be blistering. Flashfloods are the predictable result. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. temperatures above 110° are common. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. For those who like to watch. Laughlin. but despite the obvious danger.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. These storms are known to appear with little warning. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. If thunderstorms threaten.
Baker. Nevada Division of Wildlife. % 702-688-1500. NV 89703. In the north.travelnevada. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. In southern Nevada. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. Carson City.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. % 702-785-6500. Bureau of Land Management. NV 89502. Reno. UT. 850 Harvard Way. see the listings that accompany each chapter. Ogden. NV 89712. Nevada Department of Transportation. % 702-687-4219. too. US Forest Service. 324 25th Street. For information on specific locales. 1263 South Stewart Street. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. Carson City. . Intermountain Region. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. 1100 Valley Road. % 801-625-5182. In the mountains. www. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s.com. Nevada Division of State Parks. rainy and occasionally snowy. NV 89710. Nevada Commission on Tourism. 84401. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. Great Basin National Park. 1300 South Curry Street. % 800-NEVADA-8. Capitol Complex. Reno. windy. basin winters can be chilly. NV 89520. Carson City. % 702-687-4384. % 702234-7331. NV 89311.
the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum.000-year-old petroglyphs. .000-foot peak. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. closer. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. cheap food. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. try hiking to an 11. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. both prehistoric and otherwise. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. in plain view of the casinos. Inside the city limits. lounge shows – and recently. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. 9 AM to 9 PM.95 for adults. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. % 702-363-1921. Southeast of the Strip. % 702-895-3893. Yes. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. Ham Concert Hall. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. features work by students. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. 1 PM to 5 PM. is the Liberace Museum. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. 8 AM to 5 PM. call % 702-895-3801. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. but no less extravagant. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. $4. faculty and invited artists.95 for adults. % 702-895-3381. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts.50 for seniors. Dedicated to Mr. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . Seasonal streams. The tax-deductible admission is $6. Admission is $4. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. actual cosmopolitan. % 702-798-5595. Just off the glittering Strip. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. 10 AM to 5 PM. Sunday. The museum is open Monday through Friday. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. giant.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). Showmanship.95 for seniors and students. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. $3. % 702-895-3011. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state.
The restaurant and bar are open daily. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. 8 AM to 5 PM. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. With structures dating back to 1864. 8 AM to sunset. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. 8 AM to 11 PM. under Adventures on Foot. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. Back on US 95. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. the road to Mt. wife of a German munitions tycoon. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. The park is open daily. (See below. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. 5 PM in the winter.) The best time to take the 13-mile. petting zoo. trail rides and a “real” Western town. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. Admission is $4. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. Charleston. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. % 702-875-4191. The admission is $5 per vehicle. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 7 AM to dusk. later during summer months. The park is open daily. Today there is a restaurant. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. The park is open daily. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. have been unearthed here. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. % 702-486-5413. % 702-875-4141. saloon. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. one-way loop drive is early morning. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC.
At the northern edge of the reservation.000 vertical feet of runs. and its 1. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. desolate valley.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. % 702-646-3401. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation.) After the hike. under Camping. elevation 11. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. Charleston Hotel. (See below. Charleston Lodge. % 702-872-7098. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. (See below.) Pitch a tent. % 702-872-5408. (See below.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. under On Foot. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. The 1. 17-mile. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. % 702-872-5500. In the winter. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. completing the Mt. under On Wheels. see below under On Snow. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. Bighorn sheep. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning.918 feet. under Adventures and Camping. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. the Mt. Nevada’s state animal. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. % 702385-2SKI.) . And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. Charleston Loop. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. (See below. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. 2 Kyle Canyon Road.
% 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas.
% 800-785-8578 Alamo. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-654-7037 National.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-372-1981 Dollar.
site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum.50 for adults. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. % 702-735-1616. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. NV 89109. 711 East Desert Inn Road. 1830 South Boulder Highway. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. % 800-332-5333. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. 444 Hotel Plaza. Admission is $1. NV 89109. % 702-455-7955. . but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. $1 for seniors and children under 16. stopping downtown. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. The museum is open daily. 3150 Paradise Road. On the north side of Boulder City. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. Call % 800USA-RAIL. Gray Line Tours. Did it work? Judge for yourself. % 702-294-1888. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines.
% 702-293-8907. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. 660 thick at the base. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. and 45 feet thick at the top. 500 South Boulder Highway. wetting 822 miles of shoreline.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. Hoover also created Lake Mead. $2. All of 726 feet high. The cost is $5 for adults. (See On Water below. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. Las Vegans. fishing. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. for information on camping. % 702-293-2034. Hoover Dam took 5. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. 89105. Phoenix and Los Angeles. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. head back toward Boulder City. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. 89005. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. boating and diving. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. % 702-565-8591. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. Children under 10 are free.) Be sure to heed the . swimming. 100 Nevada Highway. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93.
then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. Just beyond the bay. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. a public swimming and boating area. Beyond here. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. Go straight to reach Henderson. Back on Nevada 167. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. % 702-397-2088. which rests on the Virgin River. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. . then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. thank you. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. explain the geology and forces of erosion.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). % 702-293-6180. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. The displays in the visitor center. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. nearly five miles off the highway. From the visitor center. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach.
Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. see below. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. 125°. in Bullhead City. % 520-754-3628. a campground and marina. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. % 702-297-1682. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. campground and fishing and swimming spots.000 visitors a month. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. South of here is camping. with motel. constructed his Riverside Casino. relives those days. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. Admission is a $1 donation. the town was a gold. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. 9 AM to 5 PM. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. % 702-297-1464. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. bar and bait shop. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. The museum is open Monday through Friday. East of Searchlight 14 miles. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. % 520-754-3399. (For details on all three. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. Named for a brand of matches. Nevada’s record-high temperature. 355 Highway 95. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. 9 AM to 1 PM. % 520-754-3272. % 800-46-4584 .34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. Arizona. % 520-754-4606. Saturday. under Adventures. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. on Lake Mojave.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon.
% 702-876-3380. % 310-448-1822. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. % 800-331-1212 Budget. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. host- . as many as 6.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. % 800-227-5245. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. % 800-227-5254. In Laughlin. Special Events February In February. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 702-798-6405. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. May is the busiest month. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 800-736-6247 United Express. 1555 South Casino Drive. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town.
the International Black Heritage Festival. Another balloon festival. % 702-2939256. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 800-227-5245. % 702-293-1611. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. blows in. to the campus of UNLV. % 702434-0848. and the National Finals Rodeo. % 800-637-1006. % 702-386-3926. % 702-631-7000. % 702-457-5775. % 702-293-2034. to the waters of Lake Mead. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. % 702-293-4857. take place in Boulder City. to town. a confluence of Southern Paiute. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. % 702-452-8066. takes place in Vegas. % 702-870-1221. % 702-457-2797. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. % 702687-5777. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. Navaho and Mojave peoples. % 702-8953900. . The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. also takes place in October. % 702-898-6565. October Art in the Park. August In August. the Parade of Lights. Later in the month. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. to downtown. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. the Las Vegas Classic. a three-day balloon rally. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. % 702-4541212. floats into Laughlin. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight.
Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. Graveyard Waltz (5. especially in winter months. Utah. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. in fact. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber.11+). Red Rock attracts free climbers. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The area gets only four inches of rain a year. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year.8).11).12a). Other routes in- .9) has 1. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. Crimson Chrysalis (5. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing.9).11d) offers more advanced routes.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. is to mountain bikers. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. so chalk often stays put for months. so take extra precautions when adventuring here. Stratocaster (5. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. Sheep Trail (5. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. Chicken Eruptus (5.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5.11). run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. is only 35 minutes from the Strip.11b). Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. The Choad Warrior (5. At nearby Willow Springs.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. To the west.11). At the end of a 90-minute approach.
an easy six-mile round-trip. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. .38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5.918 feet. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. 17 miles round-trip. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek.8) and Eagle Dance (5. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157.000 feet. published by the American Alpine Club. About seven miles from the visitor center. Rainbow Buttress (5. consult the Bible of local climbers. & For more information. elevation 11. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. Chockstone Press.000 feet. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. The 3.10 or 5. to savor the 300-mile views.6). There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. ending at a small dam and the spring. The trail switchbacks time and again. The South Loop Trail. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. gaining 3. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. Following the fork.000 feet in four miles.12).000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. toward a ridge at 11. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. At the aforementioned fork. page 41. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. See Outfitters. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads.
contact the US Forest Service.4 miles. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. To the northwest. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. At lower elevations. Mountain T Ranch. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. For trail information and weather and safety updates.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. gaining 1. thunderstorms and snow. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. Beginning on a dirt road.000 feet above the desert. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. . Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. covering two miles and gaining 1.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. Never take these altitudes lightly. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. the trail climbs 1.000 feet to a saddle. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center.000 feet into the northeastern sky. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way.
% 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. ascending northwest. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. . outlines the easiest route. 89180. 89124. which is marked by a post. Sports & Adventure Tours. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. % 702-434-3388. PO Box 80875. Las Vegas. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. then go northwest to another plateau. climb a gully to reach a ridge. turn right.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. % 888-86ROCKY. Las Vegas 89117. PO Box 371324. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. Las Vegas. Bruce Grubbs. HCR 33. go 6. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. 89137. Falcon Press Publishing. % 702-364-8687.2 miles. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-254-5604.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. Just south of this outcrop. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Suite 4. Stay below the northern peaks. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. % 702-223-2176. and park at the end of the road. Climb northward up the slope.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. PO Box 1. % 702-596-2953. Rocky Trails. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. heading for the northernmost outcropping. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge.
% 702-2567433.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. Las Vegas. Desert Outfitting. 617 Hoover Avenue. Cowboy Trail Rides. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. Peak Sports. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. however. PO Box 19210. % 702-649-6819. % 702387-2457. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. % 702-254-1143. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road .6 mile to a dirt road. % 702-875-1978. Silver State Old West Tours. At mile post 17. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. % 702-798-6565. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. 89132. % 702-252-7114. can arrange a covered wagon trip. % 702-458-8870. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. Desert Rock Sports. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. % 702-383-0838. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. % 702362-7177. Wagons West. Armed . 1400 Desert Hills Drive. 4065 East Patrick Lane. Hahn’s World of Surplus.
turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. make a quick right and head downhill. zoom downhill to the fork. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). % 702-647-5000. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. Turn right. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. contact the Bureau of Land Management. For a more challenging excursion. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. NV 89126. Head downhill. before heading out. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. and pump uphill. . the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. Take this until you reach a double track. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. turn left to another intersection and turn right. scanning for a cairn on the left. For a tamer road trip. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. 4765 Vegas Drive. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. Las Vegas. turn right. Turn right. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. Go left here. PO Box 26589. After beginning another climb. flying downhill and then up to another road. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. a six-mile loop. A double track soon appears on the right. heading uphill. go to the next intersection. At the road.
Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. % 702-252-8077. Downhill Bicycle Tours. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. % 702-876-8687. % 702-451-9586. . right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. R&R Cycling. Ski Chalet. % 702-646-3401. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. % 702-642-2453. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. At about the 10-mile mark. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. the byway forks. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. Turn left to return to US 15. Las Vegas Bikes USA. 7934 Cadenza Lane. % 702-8978287. 16 Cottonwood Drive. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. % 702-596-2953.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. Escape the City Streets. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor.
maps and more information on backcountry byways. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. 8 AM to 11 AM. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. Las Vegas. It begins. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. contact the Las Vegas BLM office.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. an avid angler for more than 50 years. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. Old West Territory Tours. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. % 888-REELRIO. % 702-646-8800. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. . % 702-796-9355. crystal-clear hotel pool. of all places. 2810 South Highland Drive. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. is on the premises. % 702-380-6969. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. 3700 Flamingo Road. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. % 702-454-5555. 89101. 4765 West Vegas Drive. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. Suite B. For details. 713 East Ogden Street. Rebel Adventure Tours.
with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). For details.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. Thomas. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. jet skiing. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. powerboats and cruisers. % 800-34-SCUBA.500-acre ranch in Utah. Forever Resorts. instruction and gear. (See below. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. The expert staff is available seven days a week. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. and two. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). . rents houseboats. flows into Lake Mead. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. meals and overnight lodging for $449. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. about three miles across at its widest point. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. under Boating Outfitters. water skiing. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. largemouth bass and trout. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. offering professional advice. Off Nevada 167. Boulder Beach. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. % 800-2555561.to three-days notice is required. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power.) Swimming.
Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. particularly near cliffs. % 702-2931190.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. % 702-252-7114. Las Vegas. % 702-754-3245. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702-293-6180. % 702-565-8958. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. PO Box 62465. 89102. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. The cost is about $65 per person. 89006. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. . 322 Lake Shore Road. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. % 800-696-RAFT. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. Las Vegas. is the local fishing and boating hub. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. HCR 30. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. Near Laughlin. 89124. Calville Bay Resort. offers trips from January through November. 89006. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. PO Box 100. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Lake Mead Cruises. Lake Mojave Farther south. PO Box 61235. Return transportation is provided by bus. Lake Mead Resort & Marina.
% 800-228-9825. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. PO Box 29279. Laughlin. % 702-459-2080. % 702-5659111. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. 4290 Boulder Highway. PO Box 29279. % 702-564-5660. 89040. Clearwater Flyfishing. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. % 702-437-9283. Fiesta Queen Cruises. % 702565-0696. 89028. Overton. 1450 Newberry Drive. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Overton. % 702297-1464. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. Laughlin River Tours. % 702-452-8299. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. % 702-433-3263. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 89029. 89040. .Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. Overton Beach Marina. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. AZ. % 702-388-1022. Bullhead City. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. 520-758-6242. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Tom’s Water Skiing. Sunset Bait & Tackle. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. % 702-3944000. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks.
% 702-385-4321. % 702-5657583. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. Henderson Bill Spellman. Arizona and Zion. % 702-565-8396. With commercial balloon tours. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. 161 East Rancho Drive. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. Saturday until midnight. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. however. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. Even more memorable. citing growing noise problems. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. 3800. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. 810 Circus Circus Drive. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. ext. Karen Jones. 68 Mallory Road. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. A jump is $59. Jim Goff.J. Utah. complete with guided ground tours and meals. The company claims more than 500. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. % 702-871-1399.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. Hackett Bungy. . Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. % 702-451-4004. noon to 9 PM. 1500 Palomino Drive. HB Fishing Guide Service. % 702-434-0848.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. % 702-564-1558.
% 800-634-6377. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. Sundance Helicopters. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Boulder City. NV 89019. % 702-293-1860. % 800-359-8727. Set at a base elevation of 8. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. % 800-634-6851. 2705 Airport Drive. % 702-736-0013. % 702-877-1010. % 702-385-2SKI. 806 Buchanan Street. % 800-446-4584. Las Vegas. Heli USA. Air Vegas Airlines.com. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. NV 89117.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. 241 East Reno Avenue. King Airelines. #115-200. % 702-221-9199. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Web site www. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Eagle Canyon Airlines. 89109. % 800-535-4448. Scenic Airlines. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. Jean. Las Vegas. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. PO Box 19629. 806 Buchanan Street. % 800-216-8330. D&R Balloons. 89005.ultimateballoonadven. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . Las Vegas Airlines. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. % 800-255-7474. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. Jean Airport. 3275 Rosanna Street. 200 Convention Center Drive. Skydive Las Vegas. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. Las Vegas Skydiving Center.
% 702-646-0008. luring 200. 2395 North Rancho Road. But somehow. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. Above all. $-$$$. HO TE L Many hotels. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. For more serious snow. All they do is take up space. are booked solid on weekends. it seems. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. $-$$. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s.000 techies to Sin City. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. The place was once part-owned by in- . located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. 18 East Fremont Street. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. 600 East Fremont Street. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. % 702-385-1664. % 800-272-7426. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. even behemoths like the 5. % 702-385-5200. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well.000 visitors. over 100. After all. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit.000-room MGM Grand. if possible.
all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. % 702-3821600. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. $-$$. If staring at wealth is your thing. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Across the street is the green giant. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 128 East Fremont Street. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. across from the Fashion Show Mall. way out there. who built the first casino resort. $$-$$$$. and New York. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. $$-$$$$. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. % 702-386-2110. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. % 702-731-7110. Caesars Palace. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. The faux volcano. The Four Queens. $$$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. 202 East Fremont Street. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-385-4011. The Mirage. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. 3000 Paradise Road. however. South of here. Down the street. % 702-791-7171. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. % 702-732-5111. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. % 702-740-NYNY. $-$$. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-894-7111. the Flamingo. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. New York.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. $$-$$$$. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. % 702-740-NYNY. Even by Vegas standards. dominate the Strip. $$-$$$. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. the MGM Grand. Next door is the Island’s big sister. Monte Carlo. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. has 1. $$$$$. % 702-385-7111. The movie Rainman was shot here. 1 Main Street. New York is out there.037 rooms. 129 East Fremont Street. The Golden Nugget. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. New York. the young upstarts. is a crowd-pleaser. $$-$$$$.
For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. the Mt. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. % 800-634-3988.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. contrary to popular belief. has 2. $$-$$$$. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. In the Spring Mountains. set at 7. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. At this book goes to press. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. Charleston Resort. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. Charleston Hotel. which eliminates Reno.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. % 702-262-4555. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas.500 rooms.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. Bonnie Springs Motel. On the outskirts of Vegas. . positively sedate with its 5. three Motel 6s. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South.000 visitors a month and climbing. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. but don’t count on that for long. TIP Laughlin For the most part. too. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas.000. while Bellagio will boast 3. $$-$$$$. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. % 702-735-1616. contact the Chamber of Commerce.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. % 702-872-5408. % 702-875-4400.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. $-$$. $-$$$. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. % 702-872-5500.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts.
Andre’s. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. $-$$. Eurasian mélange. Hamada. After a few meals at most of these troughs.000 rooms. % 702-252-7777. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. % 702-298-2453. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. Nearby. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. Café Michelle. Emeril’s. and Harrah’s. offers 2. opened in 1990. sports a railroad theme. $-$$$. in the Las Vegas Hilton. An excellent buffet. % 702-385-4011. The Ramada Express. and Gatsby’s. $-$$. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . 1900 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-5111. % 702-298-2214. % 702-891-7337. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere.500 rooms. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. 2121 South Casino Drive. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. 1650 Casino Drive. 2100 South Casino Drive. $-$$. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. classy Hugo’s Cellar. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. % 702-733-3111. and very expensive. % 702-891-7374. % 702-385-5016. To really dine UPtown. 2300 South Casino Drive. Andiamo. both at the MGM Grand. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. % 702-3807711. On the Strip. has 1. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. % 702735-8686. $$$$. while the Golden Nugget. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Downtown at the Four Queens. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Off the main drags. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. the Flamingo Hilton. 401 South 6th Street. 3700 West Flamingo Road. however. $-$$$. 202 Fremont Street. % 702-732-5111. % 702-298-4000. % 702-298-4200. $-$$$. % 702-298-2535. while the Colorado Belle. 1350 East Flamingo Road. The Edgewater. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. % 702-298-7111. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. % 702-298-4600. serves upscale Italian fare. At the Flamingo Hilton. 2900 South Casino Drive. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. 2000 South Casino Drive.
54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. Charleston. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. in the shadow of Mt. % 702-873-5222. Kyle Canyon. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. % 702-363-1921. % 702-693-5000. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. % 702-298-2242. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. having opened in 1932. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-382-1644. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. Chicken is the house specialty. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. 3900 Paradise Road. seven days a week. although the Lodge. 308 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-384-4470. call % 702-873-8800. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. Near the end of Nevada 157. 4455 Paradise Road. .000 and 8. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. The Green Shack. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. % 702733-8899. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. 2504 East Fremont. Fong’s. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. Phillip’s Supper House. For information. serves fine steaks and seafood. All five campgrounds have piped water. For a Latin taste. % 702-2984600. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. Chin’s.400 feet. is the oldest restaurant in the city. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. is the most popular Chinese place in town. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. so be prepared for extreme weather. while moderately pricey. as the name implies. which. % 702-383-0007. The elevation here ranges between 7. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. Suite Z. For satisfying American favorites. % 702-794-0700. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. serves hip.
% 520-7544606. north of town on Lake Mojave. To the east of Vegas. For information on all five locations. there’s Boulder Beach. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. On the Virgin River to the north. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. Calville Bay has 80 sites. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. Moving north from Boulder City. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. Las Vegas Territory . call % 702-646-3401. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. Across the river from the Strip. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. On the north shore. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. In Valley of Fire State Park. % 520-754-3272. For information. % 702-397-2088. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin.
as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. Heavenly and Mt. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. just east of the California-Nevada border. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. At the heart of this region. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. the largest alpine lake in North America. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. Of course. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. The Truckee River. Las Vegas. In the winter. Reno. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. the city of Reno is the .” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. and for good reason. Rose resorts. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat.000 feet. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. With a surface elevation of more than 7. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister.
58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. 8. Fort Churchill. Just south of Carson City.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. Farther east of Carson City. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. Today this mirage-come-true. Farther south. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. where everyone expects Ben. The place dates back to 1851. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. meanwhile. About 30 miles north of Reno. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. . complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. The Carson River. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. North of Pyramid Lake. which meanders – sometimes wet. Washoe Lake State Park. Pyramid Lake. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. on the shores of Washoe Lake. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. are walks back in time. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. an ancient. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge.
gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. In 1863. there isn’t a glass pyramid. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. or at least slow. Like Vegas. % 800-FOR-RENO. From here. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough.H. North Virginia Street. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. the city continues to grow rapidly. No. for a schedule. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. From Reno. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. In 1852. From Carson City.W. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. and in 1859 C. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. which hosts special events in warmer months. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. H.
Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. From a historical point of view.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. . this is it. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia.
is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. % 702-969-3111. the National Automobile Museum. % 702784-4812. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. The staff welcomes visitors daily. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. (See below under On Foot. 1650 North Virginia Street. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. % 702-688-1190. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. turn right. but call first for hours. The Nevada Historical Society. is a well-known. On the north side of the city. including black bears and kit foxes. houses a theater and telescope. And the Keck Minerals Museum. May Museum and Arboretum. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. April through October. 1265 Deerlodge Road. Animal Ark Nature Center. is also located here. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. % 702-333-9300. the campus of the University of Nevada. When arms get tired. % 702-784-4528. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. % 702-334-2600. Great Basin Adventure. On the northern outskirts of the city. % 702-7855961. a nifty historical theme park.) The Wilbur D. boasts three treasures. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. About 10 minutes north of the university. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. 10 South Lake Street. Fleischmann Planetarium. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. On the suburban south side of Reno. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. 300 North Center Street. To get there. houses one of the world’s best collections.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. % 702-788-3773. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. has been at that location since 1946. 1502 North Washington Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory .
% 800-221-1212. Budget. % 800-221-2000. Avis. No Stress Express. % 800-654-3131. National. K-T Services. Greyhound Lines. Reno Air. TriStar Airlines. % 800-4-SHUTTL. % 800-218-8777. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-359-2472. United Airlines. % 702-882-3375. % 800-CAR-RENT. % 800-225-2525. Northwest Airlines. % 800-426-7000. % 800-367-2277. % 800-453-9417. % 800-331-1212. Delta Air Lines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-231-2222. Thrifty. Southwest Airlines. America West Airlines. Hertz. % 800-800-4000. % 702-328-6400. % 800-235-9292. Enterprise. % 800-325-8007. % 800-736-6247. % 800-435-9792. Dollar. Lloyd’s International. % 800-241-6522. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. TWA.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. If you don’t have a car. % 800-527-0700. . Alaska Airlines. Canadian Airlines. Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-654-7037.
respectively. Reno. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. a marvelous intermingling of water. year-round outdoor playgrounds. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. % 800-FOR-RENO. 405 Marsh Avenue. NV 89505. Reno. % 702-686-3030. the waters are now finding friends in high places. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. In 1861. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. is a study in contrast. In reality. All told. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. 4590 South Virginia Street. At press time. NV 89502.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. local. but the future of the Basin itself. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. % 702-329-2936. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. control erosion and acquire open land. rock. provides an interesting mix of adventures. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . trees and sky. restore forest and watersheds. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. in his journal Roughing It. Fortunately. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. 98 Colony Road. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself.50 for kids. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach.50 for adults. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. is well-known to snorkelers. The beaches are open daily. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. is a welcome respite. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. Viewed from the highway. at 10. The park. After the buzz of the ranch. The north end of the beach. Admission is $8. restrooms and picnic areas. called Diver’s Cove. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. % 702-831-0494. stands out amid the pines. $5. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. under On Foot. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. open May through November.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. (See below. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. % 702-849-2511. % 702-831-0691. Three miles south of Incline Village. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. But in between them. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. along the eastern shoreline.) Up the twisting NV 431. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders.776 feet. with its full slate of running water.
then into the broad Washoe Valley. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. a nature trail circles the lake. (See below. $6 per child. The price for such sloth is $10. South Lake Tahoe. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. 96151. This is the home port of the Dixie II. condos. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. under On Snow. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. CA. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . The next stop is Zephyr Cove. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. % 800-AT-TAHOE. also offers excursions. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. horseback riding. under On Snow). At Tahoe Village. May through November. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. PO Box 7139. The day-use fee is $5. PO Box 16299. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. canoeing. Booming in the winter (see below.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake.250 feet in five minutes. offices and shops. % 702588-3508.) For the unmechanized. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. under Adventures and Accommodations. For information. (See below. Every summer. % 702-588-4591. Sailing. Stateline. % 702588-3000. % 916-583-9048. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. NV 89449. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce.50 per adult. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. restaurants.
000 acres. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. off NV 429. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. and on weekends between May and October.” On Halloween in 1864. In November. windsurfing. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. US 395 slides southwest. % 702-687-4319. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. % 702-849-0201. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. Washoe Lake. The original owners. site of Washoe Lake State Park. boating. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. was hit a year later in Virginia City. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. Washoe Lake covers about 3. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. a hunt that lasted 20 years. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. 1851. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. Bowers Mansion. About 15 miles south of Reno. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. The park’s centerpiece. the mansion and all its furnishings. the boom rolled in at full throttle. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. When the Comstock Lode. the world’s largest silver strike. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. Camping. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. (See below. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. 87 and 98). eventually lost their silver fortune. camping and hiking (see below. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. pages 83. During the wet season. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . Bowers Mansion County Park.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. About 30 miles south of Reno. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. under Adventures. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. one mile south of Washoe City. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West.
in fact. % 702-687-5160. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. The Capitol Building & Museum. Call for schedules and pick-up points. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. 600 North Carson Street. % 702-687-4810. % 702687-5030. yearround.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. The library contains the original state constitution. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Open Monday through Friday. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. the Nevada State Library & Archives. % 702-884-3450. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. which was opened in 1886. the Capitol is open daily. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. exhibits of native fauna. Unlike most Western capitals. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. Just east of the Capitol. It’s so open. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. 101 North Carson Street. excepting state holidays. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. Admission is $3. Located in the Carson City Mint building. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble.” In fact. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. . 100 Stewart Street. Headquartered in nearby Minden.
50. The Stewart Indian Museum. and Bender House (1874). train rides are extra. % 702-884-2226. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. The office is closed Sundays. Samuel. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. That classic journal. 5366 Snyder Avenue. The Roberts House Museum. Admission is $2. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. 448 West King Street. Roughing It. was named for its original occupant. On the suburban south side of Carson City. The staff can provide trail maps. The St. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. % 702-883-1976. % 702-887-2174. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. % 702-882-1808. $2 for kids. Admission is $4 for adults. 2180 South Carson Street. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. books and permits for the surrounding area. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The museum is filled with period furniture. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). 1536 South Carson Street. 502 North Division Street. the Carson City Brewing Company. Charles-Muller Hotel. 1207 North Carson Street. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. Two blocks north. 813 North Carson Street. Bliss Mansion. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . Admission is $2. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. 302 South Carson Street. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. The Orion Clemens House. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. % 702-826-2766. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. The building now houses a live theater. % 702-687-6953. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive.
Walley’s. % 702-782-4325. where he is buried. first opened to tourists in 1862. NV 89701. . opened in 1863. saunas. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. The place saw Nevada’s first house. 2001 Foothill Road. the first permanent white settlement in the state.000 students had walked its halls. California. Before the school closed in 1980. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. As of presstime. Carson City.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. lies Genoa. The museum is open daily. % 702-782-8155. Genoa Bar. at the foot of the Carson Range. % 702-687-7410. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. Up the street. Guests can enjoy the water. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. The roots go back to 1851. weight room and tennis courts year-round. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. 1900 South Carson Street. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. Daily admission is $12. 3. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. now long gone. May through October. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. May through October. to Genoa. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. Across the street. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs.
US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. the highway hits Topaz Lake. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. The otherwise barren hills. 1477 Highway 395. circus items. % 702-266-3343. In Gardnerville. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. Minden was founded in 1904. a 1. 1440 Highway 395. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. Their riches. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. about eight miles south of Carson City. including Western art and portraiture. where it intersects with NV 341. Leaving Carson City. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. and their spirit built the Silver State.200acre beauty set at 5. their sweat. % 702-782-2555. valleys. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. Gardnerville in 1879. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. About three miles south of Gardnerville. boxing memorabilia. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. Just down US 395. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. % 702-782-3133. Housed in the 1915 high school building. resting precariously . Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. Beyond NV 341. Finally.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. of all places. which climbs up a narrow. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. Virginia City. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville.
A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. Not recommended for claustrophobes. % 702-847-0777. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. Today. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. The Comstock Lode had been struck. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold.000 lived in Virginia City. At the south end of town. more than 15. The Marshall Mint Museum. Here. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. is a looming. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. Admission is $3. . Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. underground mine tours.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. The building is open daily. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. % 702847-0975. leave regularly. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. and within four years. May through October. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. Up C Street.000 a ton in silver. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. Admission prices range from donations to $3. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. % 702-847-0757.
000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. The memory of Samuel Clemens. Admission is $2. a room in the basement of a saloon. Finally. Admission is $2. is open daily. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. % 702-847-0766. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. The headstones and gravesites. complete with ornate chandeliers. The Mark Twain Museum. Mark Twain’s Memories. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. lives on in two buildings. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. % 702-8470333. After she was murdered in 1867. % 702847-0275. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. has a more eclectic collection. Open daily. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. including an old jukebox and player pianos. The Way It Was Museum. 3. windswept plateau. Its extravagant interior. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. % 702-847-0454. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. % 702-8470830. June through October. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. % 702-847-0525. % 702-847-9394. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September.50. is definitely not for the puritan. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. for a ride into yesterday. Reno-Tahoe Territory . here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West.
go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. then exit at NV 445. including Odeon Hall. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. The Byway’s terminus. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. % 702-847-0311. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. After about eight miles. Today. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. After another 20 miles. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. wild horses. appears in Palomino Valley. or mustangs. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. number about 30. There is also a developed campground. Past the intersection with NV 431. little more than a few walls remain. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. Several historic buildings survive in downtown.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . The last true holdovers from the untamed West. % 702-577-2345. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. % 702-673-1150. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce.
The latter are fine specimens of tufas. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. this is the place to do it – unless. Spreading north and east. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. Fremont. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. store and museum. continues to surround the lake. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. Camping. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. campground. thus christening the 27-mile-long. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. Tribe members administer recreation activities. boating and fishing are extra.000 BC. the world’s largest playa. Another 25 miles north via paved. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. They will provide directions and hours of operation. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. % 702-547-0187. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. of course. Nearby. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. Today. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. nine-mile-wide watering hole. or dry lake bed. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. A reservation was formalized in 1874. since at least 9. site of the ranger station. the road passes Wino. Just north of the marina. according to artifacts found in local caves. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. boat ramp. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. % 702-476-1156. If losing yourself is your goal. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. From Nixon. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles.182 feet) to the west.
tow chain. preparedness is imperative. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. and carry enough water. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. % 503-947-3315. on 575. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. A shovel. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. . the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. TAKE CARE In this region. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. caution and common sense are key to traveling. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. Help can be a long way away. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. about one mile south of NV 140. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. songbirds. Again. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. spare tire. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. even with one. birds of prey. Besides antelope.
The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. % 702-329-7469. % 702-265-5281. % 702-782-2444. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. Carson Valley Days. heats up. Richest Rodeo in the West. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. is a rip-snortin’ affair. water. is held in Sparks. % 702-829-1955. % 702-353-2291. Night Curves. % 702-588-6211. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. In Gardnerville. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. % 702-588-9658. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. % 702-882-1283. % 702-687-7410. % 702-847-0311. % 702-882-1802. with food. The Way It Was Rodeo.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. bills itself as the “Wildest. In Reno. % 800-FOR-RENO. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. In Virginia City. % 702-847-7500. In Carson City. % 702-329-3877. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. Reno also . % 702-883-1352. a rolling custom car show. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. % 702-882-1808. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. the Pony Express Re-Ride. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. % 702-782-2211. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up.
% 702-832-1606. In Incline Village. % 702-688-5767. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. takes place in Carson City. September The famous International Camel Races. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. % 702-972-6663. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. % 702-826-1181. Street Vibrations. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. the Native American Snow Dance. and the Nevada Day Parade. On the Black Rock Desert. attracts American Indians from many Western states. In the skies. is held in Reno. come to Virginia City along with a parade. and the National Championship Air Races. gather in Minden.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. % 702-847-0311. . the notorious Burning Man Festival. % 702-882-1565. a sort of post-modern. The Great Italian Festival. deconstructionist Woodstock. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. % 702-885-6939. % 702-782-9711. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. % 702-329-1476. % 800-535-3045. the Nevada State Fair. % 702-827-7603. % 702-786-5700. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-329-7469.
Overhangs present experts with 5. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. There are 10 routes. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. with parking on the left just south of the vista point.11a and 5.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face.11c and heavier. all 5. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. After crossing Galena Creek.11d) and Slayer (5. Falcon Press Publishing.11a). The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. including Jello Wars (5.12a opportunities. At the five-mile mark. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. however. There are more than 20 routes. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. then climbs to a saddle. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. so dress appropriately. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. are more chilling than the mountain air.000 feet. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10.14a). including Asylum (5. whips around a peak. . the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. 1994. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. Farther south. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection.
for children $5. The trail ends at a highway. This hike is certainly strenuous. elevation 8. After another mile. % 702-6881893. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. so call first. The trail parallels Ophir Creek.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. including great blue herons and birds of prey. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points.260 feet. Since the slide. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. . the Oxbow Nature Study Area. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. as are group tours.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. climbing 3. Hours are seasonal. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. offers a beautiful willow. % 702-847-WALK. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size.300 feet in just six miles. NV 431. The charge for adults is $12. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage.
as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. Madras. contact the BLM. % 916-279-6101. The trail. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. write them at PO Box 20991.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. great horned owls and other birds of prey. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. For more information. as are 7. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. Stevens Camp. Mahogany Mountain. To reach the trailhead. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. For more information. Oakland. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. For travel information. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. OR 97441. For road conditions and closures. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. From here. As this is being written. CA 94620. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. Yellow Hills East. . is a good overnight point.
% 702-626-6916. Denio Junction. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. Bighorn Outfitting. Patagonia Outlet. Nevada Guide Service. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. % 702-851-1924. % 702-322-9559. % 702-333-6795. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. % 702-623-1500. Look for the Knott Creek sign. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. but they might also offer their services to hikers. Reno. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. Silver State Outfitters. 1135 Terminal Way. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. Outdoor Adventures.200 lung-burning feet. Sparks. A steep. 490 Kietzke Lane. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. gaining 2. % 702-746-6878. On the east side of the reservoir. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. Reno. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. Incline Village. 3335 Vista Boulevard. % 702-832-5231. PO Box 6145. NV 89502. NV 89450. #111. 20 Daylily Court. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. 8550 White Fir Street. The lakes. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. NV 89436. NV 89511. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. terminus of the fairly flat. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. backpackers and photographers. . to the soaring summit at 9. jogs through alpine meadows. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98.397 feet.
% 702-323-5630. % 702-3584824. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. the trail makes a high-altitude. % 702-849-1020. 4375 South Carson Street. Sporting Rage. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . which parallels North Canyon Creek. Sierra Spirit Ranch. Near Washoe Lake State Park. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. % 702884-3453. % 702588-5664. 4339 South Carson Street. contact Tin Cup Adventures. Zephyr Cove Stables. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. % 702782-7011. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. % 702-8252855. In the highlands near Mount Rose. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. In all four cases. Sierra Mountaineer. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. Vogl Trek USA. offers ranch day trips. 1941 North Carson Street. % 702-849-9651. % 702-885-7773. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. 1901 Silverada Boulevard.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. and offers picnic rides. Twin City Surplus. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. % 702-8827779. % 702-849-0570. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. 1675 East 4th Street.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. 1201 Highway 395. After about three miles. % 702-831-5465. 155 East Moana Lane. call first for availability and directions. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. also rents horses. Strictly Scuba & More.
then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. From here. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. to Vya. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. 84 miles back to Gerlach. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). north of Pyramid Lake. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. Continuing northwest on NV 447. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. Put simply. To complete the loop. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. The half-paved. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. or ends. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. % 702-831-0494. % 916-279-6101. depending on point of view. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. don’t screw it up. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. For detailed maps. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. . or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway.
Falcon Press Publishing. 89509. 235 East Plumb Lane. winter and spring. call % 702-688-1500. south of Carson City. % 702-825-8258. . % 702786-5111. Reno Schwinn. % 702826-0800. For more information. % 702883-3210. Great Basin Bicycles. 89701. 1987 North Carson Street. Bobo’s Ski Shop. Bicycle Warehouse. % 702827-3277. % 702-747-1413. Excell Skates. 1999 South Virginia Street. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 89502. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. 3450 Lakeside Drive. 1993. 89502. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. also known as NV 206. % 702-3226001. 4135 South Virginia Street. 89701. % 702-8871333. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. 89502.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. & According to Jeanne L. 500 North Carson Street. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. Bike Brothers. 89502. 89532. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. along with Canada geese in fall.
coyotes. canoes. rents powerboats. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. PO Box 3007.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. Contact the US Forest Service. 89423. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. which can take up to seven hours. 89450. % 702782-0867. Entrance fee is $3 per car. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. . % 702-588-3369. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. 1685 Highway 395 South. kingfishers. Nevada. California. red-tailed hawks. 89701. personal water craft and kayaks. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. During spring and early summer. 625 Fairview Drive. cutthroat and rainbows. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. six miles south of Gardnerville. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. turkey vultures. offers 1. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. The trip. On the Nevada side. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. via NV 88 and CA 89. Spooner Lake. % 702-8825007. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove.
catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. However. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. but in wet years. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. There are two boat ramps. Idlewilde Park. although . Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. A better option might be Ophir Creek. For more adventurous angling. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. with campground and restrooms. and charges a launching fee. For the stalwart anglers. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. both on the eastern shore. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. % 702-6874319. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. thanks to Sierra runoff. two to three miles up a steep trail. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. planting and licensing information. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. For moving-water anglers. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. For directions. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. catfish and trout. are regularly stocked with rainbows. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. % 702-688-1500.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. only a mile west of downtown. Washoe Lake State Park. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. water levels. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. The smaller. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout.
however. More than 100 years later. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. the setting here is primative. The reservoir is located on private land. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. In his book. under Outfitters. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. while rainbow. used to separate gold and silver from ore. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. Boats with outboards are permitted. Come prepared. For more information. % 702-688-1500. Nevada Angler’s Guide. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. There are two boat ramps on the lake. Camping is primitive. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. see below. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. boasts a handful of isolated spots. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. a health advisory is still in effect. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. Rainbow. . and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. crappie and perch. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country.
Zephyr Cove. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Reno Fly Shop. 96145. Reno. % 702-358-6113. intermediate and advanced. NV 89431. . NV 89448. The Gilly. PO Box 815. PO Box 6506. Snowboarders are welcome. NV 89502. 155 East Moana Lane. Zephyr Cove. % 916-541-5448. Reno. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Tahoe Topliners. Mount Rose also offers lessons. % 702-322-9559. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. % 916-546-4444. rentals and a shuttle bus. % 702-827-0600. PO Box 1909. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. % 916573-0753. Stateline. Sparks. PO Box 10225. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. NV 89449. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. 89502. CA..440 vertical feet of runs. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. NV 89448. % 702-588-4916. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. 490 Kietzke Lane. Don’s Fishing Charters.260 feet. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. equally divided among novice. Tahoe City. % 702-825-2855.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. NV 89502. 294 East Moana Lane. With a base elevation of 8. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. 1111 North Rock Boulevard.
Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. lesson. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. . who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. lesson. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. all-terrain skis. skate skis. a new gondola and the famous tram. % 702-749-5349.500 feet). % 702-831-8361. Heavenly. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. with the longest vertical drop (3. and/or snowshoes. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort.840 feet. For cross-country fans.000 feet above sea level. Heavenly has 18 chairs. six surface lifts. Diamond Peak. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. lessons. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). which include a pass. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. not to mention great views of the lake. day tours and amateur races. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. % 702-7823047. $8 after 3 PM). NV. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. rentals. and rental.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. rentals. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. Incline Village. 89451. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. Lessons. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. This is a monster of a mountain. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. 1210 Ski Way. the greatest acreage (4. trail pass) is $34. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. Snowboarders are welcome. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation.800) and the highest top elevation (10.000 to 9. Lessons.
as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. % 702-831-3537. Stateline House of Ski. 235 East Plumb Lane. % 702-831-2922. 89502. 89502. C&J Flight Aviation. Sierra Mountaineer. 515 East Moana Lane. Galena Ski Rentals. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. 89502. 321 Sky Way. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. 89502. % 702831-3500. % 702-786-2020. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. Serva Ski. 89502. % 702782-0867. In Reno. % 702786-5111. 1200 South Wells Avenue. South Lake Tahoe. 89502. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702-3226001. 89451. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. % 702-8269096. % 702-588-5935. PO Box 19215. % 702-786-7071. % 916-544-1221. Mogul Mouse. of- . Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89451. % 702-849-0111.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. CA 96151. 140 Vesta Street. Sundance Ski Company. 89451. 89502. 89502. 209 Kingsbury. 89423. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. % 702-3239463. % 702-358-4824. 1685 Highway 395 South. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. 2615 Mill Street. Excell Skates. 2500 East 2nd Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. Snowind Sports. % 702-329-5358. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport.
has 740 rooms. eight restaurants.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. 398 US 50. % 702-784-4944. Harrah’s.. % 800-6483773. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). High Country Soaring. $$$-$$$$. % 800-427-8397. % 800-99-RIDGE. three. offers 534 rooms. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. Tahoe Summit Village. % 800-635-0066. on this site since 1944. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. The Douglas County Airport. . Harvey’s Resort. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. the Sierras and. of course. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. $$$-$$$$. $$$$. a dance club. $$$$$$$. $$$-$$$$. Lake Village Vacations. % 702-588-8571. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. Lake Tahoe. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. has two. 750 Wells Fargo Lane.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. poolside service. $$$-$$$$. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. also features condo accommodations. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. % 800-648-3353. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe.
a rustic feel. The Zephyr Cove Resort. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. lawn games. $$-$$$. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. as well as a gym with instructor on site. 111 Country Club Drive. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. % 800-824-6391. % 702-588-6644. % 800-731-6222. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. with more than 1. 210 North Center Street.700 rooms on 38 floors.$$-$$$$. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. % 800-225-6382. has 33 rooms. $$$-$$$$. which serves free continental breakfast. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. % 800-687-8733. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. % 702-8321234.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. As in Las Vegas. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. 2 Stateline Road. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. Among the downtown locations. $$. $$-$$$. 407 North Virginia Street. 24 Highway 28. The Haus Bavaria B&B. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. the Cal-Neva Resort. % 800-624-7980. $$-$$$$. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. % 800-322-7723. 593 North Dyer Circle. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. Today. first-class. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. $-$$. A perennial four-star winner. Harrah’s. % 702-831-0287. $$$. combines great views. % 800- . and many of the rooms look exactly alike. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. $$.
94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. . 1901 South Virginia. $$$. 3131 South Virginia Street. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. It has more than 1. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. which features theme rooms. $. $$. 3575 South Virginia Street. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. a heated pool and other amenities. 701 East 7th Street. most notably the Days Inn. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. 2707 South Virginia Street.000 rooms. % 800-648-5966. the Eldorado. % 800-648-1177. and Vagabond Inn. Freeway convenient. $$. two heated pools and a hair salon. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. $$. % 702-827-0255. $$. $$-$$$. $$$. 600 South Carson Street. an owner-built. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. $$$$. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. Rates start at $195 per night. % 800-723-6500. % 800-937-1436. Nearby. 345 North Virginia Street. boasts nearly 600 rooms. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. $. Motel 6. The St. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. % 800-723-6500. has a heated pool. the Motel 6. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. % 800-282-2444. convention facilities and some impressive suites. is a three-story. 1100 Nugget Avenue. Away from downtown. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. % 702-358-1080. % 702-786-4070. including a barber shop. $$. $$-$$$. Charles Hotel. 500 North Sierra Street. The Atlantis. % 702-825-7134. which overlooks the state government center. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. the new Peppermill. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. welcomes bargain hunters. $$. 710 West Robinson Street. free airport shuttle and skier rates. % 702-8821887. % 800-320-0627. % 702-882-3643. % 800-622-1890. 310 South Carson Street. $$. Circus Circus. has more than 1. $$.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino.
1643 US 395. 1540 Main Street. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. 300 Main Street. $-$$. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. $-$$. $-$$. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. $$-$$$. two with private baths. . was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings.C. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. $. % 702-782-5697. $$. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. $$-$$$. % 702-782-7644. It has four rooms. $$$. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. It has four rooms. % 702-782-7075. and Pioneer. There are 13 rooms. the inn was built in 1872 by A. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. 1627 US 395. 1979 US 395. $-$$. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. $$. $$. The Crooked House. The Chollar Mansion. generic motels abound in Carson City. % 702-557-2220. $$. is the center of the action. Pratt. some with kitchenettes. 1431 Ezell Street. 8 South F Street. 565 South D Street. for weary wanderers. % 702-782-8720. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. % 702-782-9711. $$$. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. % 702-8825535. was built in the late 1800s. #800-628-7831. including the small Genoa House Inn. 180 Nixon Street. The motel has 40 rooms. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. % 702-847-0521. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. has five rooms. 2001 Foothill Road. 2332 Main Street. 11 with private baths. % 800-962-0732.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. % 702-882-3046. % 702-847-0111. 1435 US 395. and a casino. 800 North Carson. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. % 702-847-9777. $$$. 907 South Carson. % 800-321-6983.
Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. 4201 West 4th Street. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. 1200 Razorback Road. % 702-323-5550. 328 Kingsbury Grade. The hotels. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. % 702-941-0371. a casino. % 702-825-1250. no TVs and. serves fresh Japanese steak. Ichiban. Open for dinner only. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. 3065 West 4th Street. The French cuisine is made with fresh. coffee shops. Open for dinner only. Famous Murphys. The Chart House. along with Caesars Tahoe. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. of course. The restaurant also does its own baking. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. % 702-588-2411. the menu changes every two months. also run the gamut with delis. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. % 702-827-4111. % 702-323-3200. Reservations are recommended. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. ethnic food and full buffets. try the Glory Hole. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. the lake’s first casino. including a seafood and oyster bar. $. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. 3127 South Virginia Street. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. seasonal ingredients. The place has 14 rooms. is a rousing pub with good food. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. Steak. . The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. 210 North Sierra Street. % 702-786-1323. % 702-588-6611. % 702-588-6276.
% 702-847-0111. the Eldorado. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. Boasting a large Italian menu. 1020 North Carson Street. % 702-8262121. Adele’s. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. 255 North Sierra Street. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. % 702-882-3353.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. dinner only on weekends. seafood and steak. 402 East William Street. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. Two blocks away. % 702-348-9297. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. serves fine French cuisine. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. % 702786-5700. one of the top Italian eateries in country. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. % 702-689-7226. % 702-882-4556. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. 1301 North Carson Street. There is also an extensive wine list. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. 507 North Carson Street. % 702-883-6261. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. this is the place. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. % 702-785-7000. % 702-882-0486. . Heidi’s. 4389 South Carson Street. 1112 North Carson Street. El Charro Avitia. % 702882-1626. % 702-356-3300. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. South of the city center and south of the border. Silvana’s. % 702-8835100. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. The Carson Nugget Steak House. 2707 South Virginia Street. 234 North Virginia. and Peppermill. 1540 Main Street.
The campground is extremely popular in summer months. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. 1300 West 2nd Street. Open June through September. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. Set at 8. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. the campground has 54 sites and running water. office of the BLM. for more information. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. % 702-323-3381. which straddles the Nevada-California border. Call the Cedarville. lies south of the river. Nightly fees are $6. Open May through October. Mount Rose has running water. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. 735 Mill Street. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. The nightly fee is $5. % 702-687-4319. some for RVs and some for tents. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. Reno RV Park. the campground has 24 sites. 2500 East 2nd Street. On the Nevada side. Rates run about $18 per night. % 702-322-2281. The overnight fee is $7. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. call % 702266-3343. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. . % 702-8822766. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. Showers are available. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. % 702-789-2000. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. For information and fees. Simply wonderful. Big Spring Reservoir. nine for RVs. % 916-573-2600. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night.900 feet. including Virgin Valley. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. % 916-279-6101. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. California. The overnight rate is $12. There are 44 campsites here.
Bible and mail pouch. pausing only long enough to change mounts. wiry fellows not over eighteen. Incredibly. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. the gutsy riders. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart.Pony Express Territory vada. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Beginning in April 1860. tore between stations. 1861. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. and Sacramento. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures.. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. On October 24. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail.. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . Orphans preferred. Want ads called for “Young. willing to risk death daily. carrying only a pistol. California. skinny. Missouri. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. Joseph.” Riders. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest.
hiking and wildlife viewing. ridges and valleys in the country. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. In the higher mountains. But if you consider solitude. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. glacier-carved peaks. It also harbors a wildly varying climate.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. As might be expected. Near the town of Ely. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. . Just a few hours from Ely.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. Ranging in elevation from 3. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. there is excellent skiing. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. this area has plenty to offer.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. so be prepared for anything.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. spans some of the most beautiful. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. Great Basin. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
Sunday. April through December. below. pelicans. In recent years. covers 77. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. White-faced ibis.000 years. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. Over 14. % 702-867-3500. 1000 Auction Road.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. snowy plovers. January through March. % 702-423-5128. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3.000 people. In peak years. green-winged teals. canvasbacks. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. peregrine falcons. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years.000 photographic images. % 702-423-3677. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. 1050 South Maine Street. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. (See On Water. . Admission is free. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. With 10. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8.
on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. is the artist in residence here. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. At press time.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. The hunting season usually opens in October. Over 8. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. Pony Express Territory . which is open only twice a month for guided tours. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. which features the famous Blue Angels. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. More than 21. and “management” means hunting. Just off the highway are two short trails. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. Every spring. Just east of town. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. On the south end of town. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. Adam Fortunate Eagle.000 years ago. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month.
wild West. If the roar of engines ever dies down. 100 Campus Way. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. % 702-423-4556. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. listen for the mountain’s “singing. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). roars and moans. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. A hike to the precipice is a safe. 379 West William Avenue. but strenuous.” Booms. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. Near the station. regularly emanate from the dune. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. fauna. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. about three miles past West Gate. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. % 702-423-2544.” meaning sword. NV 89406. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. NV 89406. volcanic cliffs around it.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. geology and history of the region. . Fallon. Fallon. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. dark. the low.
the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. PO Box 1149. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. Three miles later. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. past Bob Scott campground. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. Six miles later. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. 13 miles east of Austin. PO Box 212. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. Austin is a quiet.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. then to paved NV 376. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. Spencer’s Hot Springs. However the rush began. NV 89045. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10.350 feet. % 702-964-2200. then climbs again to Austin. Round Mountain. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. the boom was followed by the bust. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. NV 89310. As always. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. Austin. population about 300. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13.577 feet. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. % 702-964-2145.
The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. At mile 55. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. PO Box 212. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. NV 89820. Battle Mountain. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. The hill is located on private land. There is also a free campground here.500 years ago. experienced cavers only. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. At mile 30. NV 89310.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. . The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. After merging with Lower Mine Road. % 702-964-2200. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. A long. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. Austin. A series of safe. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. near Pete’s Summit. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. is recommended for serious.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. PO Box 1420. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road.000 years ago. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. The limestone cavern. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. are open to visitors just off the road. % 702635-4000.
The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. dates from 1877. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. The shell of the building. Not until five years later. Eureka’s population of 9. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. Eureka. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. are still a major facet of the local economy. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. PO Box 14. Gold mines. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. Still. The building. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City).000 made it the second-largest city in the state. % 702-237-5484. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. but most definitely worth a gander.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. NV 89316. completed in 1880 and still in use today. and the Jackson House Hotel. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. The state’s No. however. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. By 1878. Eureka. But by 1890 the rush was over. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. found in the valleys around Eurkea. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . some a little less gloriously than others. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years.
Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. Monday through Friday and by appointment. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. NV 89316. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area.000 feet. Entering town at night . About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Eureka. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. A few miles farther south. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. % 702-237-5484. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. Situated at 9. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. running south into the Humboldt National Forest.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. PO Box 14. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. US 50 rolls across basin and range. n Ely Back on US 50.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it.500 residents. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Pronounced EE-lee. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. this mini-city (population about 5.
taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. former First Lady Pat Nixon. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. % 702-289-2085. running water. like many museums in this territory. a bicycle. PO Box 150040.50 per person. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. NV 89301. engine house. Prices start at $10 per person. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. depart on selected dates from May through September. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. % 702-2894710. Since they went cold in the 1880s. East Ely. Tours of the railroad yard. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. There is primitive camping here. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. furniture. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. On the other side of town.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. Return to US 50. Pony Express Territory . machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. Admission is free. accessories. Call for exact dates and times. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. The museum. showers and hiking trails. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters.300 feet. 2000 Aultman Street. located on East 11th Street. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. The White Pine Public Museum. % 702-728-4467. depot. clothing. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. as well as an original. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum.
56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. % 702-289-8877. % 702-289-4865.000 people a year visit the park. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. While hikers are welcome. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. In 1922. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. That leads quickly to Baker. untamed backcountry.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. % 800496-9350. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. contact the Ely office of the BLM. a proposal to create a 6. Most of the 77. For more information.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. 1986. In the 1950s a . the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. 636 Aultman Street. 150 6th Street. From Baker.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. Bristlecone Convention Center. Designated a national park in October. Only about 70. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. % 702-234-7331. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. sometimes by the hundreds. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is.
nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. columns.067-foot Wheeler Peak.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. then head straight out of the park. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. Christmas and New Year’s Day. Call ahead for conditions. $3 for juniors. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. % 702-234-7331. or speleotherms: stalactites. While celebrating a victory. stalagmites. ski resorts and tramways. which is actually one huge cavern. among others. are hard to beat. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy.000 to 44. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. Tours of the cavern. limited to 30 people at a time. . Prices are $4 for adults. flowstone and soda straws. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. in 1986. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn.000. Baker. Finally. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations.086-acre Great Basin National Park. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. draperies. The high-altitude campgrounds. are held every day except Thanksgiving. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. the park’s crown jewel. (See On Foot and Camping. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. too.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. NV 89311-9702. below. Congress settled on 77.
South Toiyabe Peak. Set at 7. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. The garnets found here. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Drive three miles to the recreation area. south into Arc Dome Wilderness.000 feet. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. Tierney Creek. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. To reach Garnet Hill. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. Millet Ranch. a few of which are even of gem quality. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. Arc Dome. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. which has picnic tables and shade trees.600 feet.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. Carvers NW. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. Bakeoven Creek. are spessartite. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. . The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. or use paved NV 376. % 702-9642671. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. to reach the village of Kingston.
check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. and Mount Moriah. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness.000 feet along rocky. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. windswept paths. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. 1. This is some serious highcountry hiking. set aside in 1989. a unique. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. % 702-289-3031 for more information. From the trailhead/parking area. If threatening clouds approach. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). which at 12. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. The wilderness. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. The trail ends just before the summit. The area’s claims to fame are The Table.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. as well as all the water you will need. Pony Express Territory .000-acre. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. nausea. which may be impassable when wet.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. leave the high country immediately. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. with many trails climbing above 10. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. is marked with trailhead signs. which heads west toward the peak. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. After about 10 miles of hiking. headache. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. Baker. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove.
114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West.063 feet. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. Continue straight. the views of the 8. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. At 13. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. or cirque. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. The bowl. then turn left again. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. To reach the summit. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. Use extreme caution here. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. This is another depression etched by a glacier. In 1878. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. the six-mile . the last 1. If it is safe to venture to the peak. then descends to Teresa Lake. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. Finally. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south.
subalpine conditions. Return the way you came. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. Kious Spring.926-foot Pyramid Peak. once the site of some mining activity. In good weather. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. Turn left. After about three miles. To continue the loop hike.950 years. Around mile six.700 feet in the first seven miles. Wheeler Peak. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. To return to the trailhead. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. just off to the east. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. Lehman Caves. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. this is a nice overnight stop.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. .
Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. a quartermile. 89406. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. 89406. Great Basin Inn. % 702-664-2977. PO Box 34005. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. % 702-867-3388. Wendover George A. 701 Avenue F. Daum. is worth a gander. . HC 34. % 702423-9215. % 702-423-5185. Box 33570. Silver State Stables. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. Sportsworld. 89301. HCR 33. Burdick Guide Service. 189 Aultman Street. 89406. J & P Auto Parts. % 702235-7439.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. 5030 Reno Highway. % 702-238-5232. 89883. 89301. 89406. 2005 Harrigan Road. % 702-2893063. Wildlife West Guide Service. As of presstime. % 800-874-0903. % 702-289-4468. 203 Heritage Drive. 3125 Stark Lane. 89301. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. 89301. 89301. 1707 Rice Road. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. 89406. % 702-423-6171. % 702-289-4208. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. % 702-4239215. White River Guide Service. 89301. Flying M Stables. % 702-289-8886. sells camping and outdoor equipment. 1050 Aultman Street. PO Box 2560.
000 per year. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. Dune-buggy. NV 89310. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. one would think tiny Austin. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. Austin. population 300. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. brochures and campgrounds. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. the sixstory. % 702-964-2671. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. A 10-mile loop with a 1. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. contact the BLM. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. For more information. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . NV 89310. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. Austin. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. PO Box 130. The route runs north out of the canyon. For more information. % 702-885-6000. PO Box 504.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit.
The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. sells and services bicycles. % 702-234-7331. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. for maps. and bring plenty of water. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. 1500 Aultman Street. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. directions and road conditions. past the US Forest Service station. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. when the weather is dry. From the pavement. . The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. % 702-289-8886. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld.
so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. Boat ramps are located in two spots.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. Pony Express Territory . The trout limit is 10. along with sportfishing. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. where worms and corn are said to work best. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. In 1997. Lahontan State Recreation Area. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. surrounds a 10. White crappie can be hooked March through May. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. % 702-688-1500. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer.
About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. via paved NV 376 and a three. % 702-289-4468. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. 1500 Aultman Street. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. The Upper Reese River. is one of the biggest places in town. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. $-$$. and one of the best bargains. A few chain HO TE L . moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. % 702-289-4865. % 702-289-3063. which feeds the lake. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. Great Basin Inn.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. 701 Avenue F. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. 1050 Aultman Street. 855 West Williams Avenue. % 702-423-6031. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. J & P Auto Parts. % 702-289-8886.
$$. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. Smith Creek Ranch. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. is a modern. combines a B&B with a private. which is north-south running US 95. has 27 rooms. the Budget Inn. a heated pool and interior corridors. the Lincoln Motel. % 702-423-2277. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. $. $-$$. 1830 West Williams Avenue. $$$. with 10 rooms. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. % 702-964-2471. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. 25 North Taylor Street. The red brick structure was built in 1877. The Nevada Belle Motel. % 702-237-5334. Call for information. the 22-room Value Inn. $-$$. $-$$. 70 East Williams Avenue. % 702-423-5554. try Jackson House B&B. has 21 rooms. including the Comfort Inn. 1705 South Taylor Street. It is open seasonally. % 702-423-4648. % 702-9642605. % 702-237-5577. has 17 rooms. instruction. $$. which has 30 rooms. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). while on the southern edge of town. $. % 702-423-5151. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. which has 17 rooms. rates and directions. % 702-964-2306.800 acres. but after a long day on the road. For a real blast from the past. % 702-423-4254. the Pony Express House. On the east end of town. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. called Main Street as it runs through town. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. The ranch. and. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. $-$$. As you drive in from the west. 180 West Williams Avenue. also called Main Street here. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. basic equipment. The Eureka Motel. a heated pool and a small casino. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. $-$$. most of which are on US 50.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. who really cares. % 702-964-2698. $$$. $-$$. $. 115 Northwest Main Street. The Sundown Lodge. % 702-237-5247. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. meals and overnight accommodations. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. which has 49 rooms. % 702-423-2194.
$-$$. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. % 702289-6671.300. % 702-237-9988. located on the south side of town off US 93. $$-$$$. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. % 702-289-8687. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. $-$$. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. 770 Avenue O. $. two-story hotel. 501 Aultman Street. which has 61 rooms. There are also private balconies. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. % 702-2891234. and its twin. After years of dormancy. 701 Avenue I. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). the building was vacant 10 years later. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. 500 High Street. $-$$. $-$$. is another living antique. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. % 702-289-4747.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. has 21 rooms. 930 Aultman Street. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. For a more genteel stay. 220 East 11th Street. The Bristlecone Motel. the inn has five rooms with private baths. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. $-$$$. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. 1101 Aultman Street. 1501 Avenue F. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. Ely With a population of more than 5. 700 Avenue I. which has 19 rooms. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. % 702-289-8838. % 702-289-8900. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. $. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. $-$$. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. % 702-289-6665. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. % 702-289-4884. The inn is open June through September. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. % 702-289-4497. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. For a more modern taste. 5th . $$.
Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. % 702-234-7323. which has a laundromat and showers. South of Baker at the national park boundary. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. guided tours and off-road adventures. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. % 702234-7323. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. what with its 29 rooms. % 702-289-3800. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. $. even fast food joints are nonexistent. along with horseback riding. Utah. $-$$. $-$$. 150 4th Street. It is open June through August. NV 89311. $. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. % 702-289-4411. the Border Inn. . % 702-234-7267. is a favorite spot for travelers. with its seven rooms. offers tipis and a campground. The Silverjack Motel. % 702-237-7302. Behind the Silverjack. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. Baker. % 702234-7300. % 702-289-3033. 24hour laundromat and showers. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely.er.. $. and the White Pine Motel. 1301 Aultman Street. so call ahead for operating hours. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. % 702-234-7343. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. $. % 702-234-7272. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. and Whispering Elms RV Park. and two others outside of Baker. PO Box 90. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory.. At presstime there were two places to stay in town.
Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. 875 West Williams Avenue. If your mind is on pizza. specializing in omelets and steaks. serves up steaks. % 702-867-2769. lunch and dinner. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. 4150 Reno Highway. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. The International Café and Bar. including the few eateries. however. is also open for three squares a day. 1955 McClean Road. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. is known throughout Fallon. Stockman’s Casino. 125 South Maine Street. try Mary’s Owl . % 702-964-9905. The Depot Casino. have been serving great burgers. The Mexican food at La Cocina. % 702-423-3111. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. % 702-423-5588. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. is home to The Diner. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. Smack in the center of town. In the 1920s and ‘30s. Toiyabe Café. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). is located in the secondoldest building in the state. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. In 1929 and ’30. % 702423-6828. % 702-964-2493. The Fallon Nugget Casino. % 702-964-2220. Tony’s. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. 1560 West Williams Avenue. % 702-423-3233. % 702-867-3750. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. 960 Auction Road. Kentucky Fried Chicken. 70 South Maine Street. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. % 702-423-6166. % 702-423-2117. is Fallon’s only coffee house. including McDonald’s. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. 1350 West Williams Avenue. Denny’s. Open for breakfast. Café Nations.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. Carol’s Country Kitchen.
serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. % 702-237-5280. 501 Aultman Street. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. % 702-289-4888. however. % 702-867-3636. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . % 702-237-5356. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. % 702-289-4884. 2160 Aultman Street. and Hubtotel RV Park. 211 5th Street. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. The Busy Bee Drive-In. and is attached to a bar. % 702-289-3905. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. might as well top it off in Eureka. % 702-867-2332. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. serving diner-style grub. West of Fallon. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. The Fireside Inn. offers 45 sites. % 702-289-3313. % 702-964-2412. 5787 Reno Highway. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. and Orient Express. serves a fine steak sandwich. The Owl Club. % 702-237-5477. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. Lahontan State Recreation Area. Believe it or not. top sirloin steak and eggs. 21. 1455 Aultman Street. has 64 sites. % 702-688-1500. Jerry Restaurant No. which features prime rib. 701 Avenue I. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. located three miles north of town on US 93. where the restaurants are also along US 50. 562 Aultman Street. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. % 702-964-2627. Fallon RV Park. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. % 702-289-6665. is also open 24 hours a day. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. 4800 Reno Highway. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. % 702-2289-3765. % 702-289-3033. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends.
To reach Bird Creek campground. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. as there are no services near the water.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486.800 feet. then go a mile to County Road 1059.500 feet. grills. along with campfire rings. About nine miles south of Big Creek. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. For information. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. which are open June through September with running water. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. Austin RV Park. set at 7. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. No running water or firewood. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. Just east of town. There are 15 sites. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. For more information and road conditions. None have running water. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. both off of US 50. Battle Mountain. There is drinking water here. Austin. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. Finally. Only six miles southwest of Ely. picnic tables and vault toilets. PO Box 1420. Bob Scott Campground. % 702-964-2671. After a few miles. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. 24 miles east of Austin. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. North of Ely. where there are eight campsites set at 7. NV 89820. There are 10 sites here . is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. % 702-635-4000. Just east of the Eureka town limits. PO Box 130. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. NV 89310.300 feet. % 702-964-1011. Open April to October.
there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. % 702-2893303. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. To reach the campground from US 50. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground.752 feet. 350 8th Street. Ely. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. There are 30 sites here at 7. Pony Express Territory . % 702-2893031. Set at 7. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. depending on weather conditions. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. % 702-289-4865. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. In the center of the park. Upper Lehman. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water.300 feet. and there are no showers.886 feet. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. on US 93. The BLM. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. this is the only park campground open all year. In Great Basin National Park. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. and Valley View RV Park. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. % 702-2893413. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. 89301. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. Contact the visitors center. % 702-234-7331. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. has 100 sites. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. NV. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. For more information. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. On the northern edge of the park. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely.250 feet).530 feet.
” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. the oldest living thing on earth. started pulling core samples. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat.000 feet and more. The short. sagebrushcovered sea. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. who described them as “lowly old giants. Throughout history. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids.700 years. the state animal. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. Today in Cowboy Country. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. humans. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. . Edmund Schulman. not many of them stayed around very long.000-year-old duck decoys. He found one living specimen dating back 4. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. Desert bighorn sheep. reaching as high as 11. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. however. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. call many parts of this high country home. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. Named Methuselah.
bikers and equestrians. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state.000 years. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. bass and other gamefish. towns like Winnemucca. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. Carry good maps and a compass. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. streams. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. Elko headed the list of the 100 . The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. The weather here can be as wild as the land. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. In 1993. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. In fact. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. lakes and reservoirs. Winter brings rain and snow. Summers are generally hot and dry. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. and know how to use them. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10.
followed by the doomed Donner Party. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. This is a place where pick-up trucks. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. but thanks to new mining technology. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. both held in Elko. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. But since the early days. Cowboy Country . The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. lunch and dinner. combed Cowboy Country. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. took to sheepherding. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. others moved on. after the riches ran out. In late 1860s. The famous trail. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. parts of which are still visible today. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. paralleled the Humboldt River. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. but everyday tools. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. including one named Samuel Clemens.
This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. about 17 miles from Lovelock. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. turn left on Derby Road. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. which crosses the Humboldt River. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. George Lovelock. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter.000-square-mile Pershing County. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. Five miles southwest of the shelter.300. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. The seat of 6. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. arrived here in 1866. With a population of just over 2. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. located on the southern outskirts of town. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. which measures . Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. which the company named after him. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. After eight miles. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin.
picnicperfect park. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. many of which were donated by locals. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. clothing and household items. are large. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. dark. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. the first ever in the Great Basin. Admission is free. Lovelock. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. in 1886 or 1887. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. NV 89419. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. One of only two round courthouses in the country. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. He may have been led there by Natchez. Scientific excavations. Mummified remains were found here. which also features the community pool. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. PO Box 821. % 702-273-2713. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. Tufas.
is centered on this man-made lake. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. % 702-538-7321. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. Open all year. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. fishing and camping. % 702-273-2713. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas.134 n Cowboy Country vada. which seems close enough to touch. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. below) and wellmanicured homes. About 16 families reside in Unionville. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. For details. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. Lovelock. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. see below under Adventures. NV 89419. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. PO Box 821. After later taking the name Mark Twain. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. where stone . Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). as well as opportunities for boating. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80.
In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. a good spot for a picnic. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. Edna Purviance. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. the Humboldt Museum complex. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702/623-2225. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. except for lunch. Curator . From here it’s five miles to the town.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. Winnemucca (population 7. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. Admission is free.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. They later brought their families. Today their descendants. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. To reach Unionville from I-80. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. dancing. a former resident. % 702-623-2912.
30 West Winnemucca Boulevard.000. % 800-962-2638. Winnemucca. NV 89445. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. nabbing $32. Another gem is the Shone House. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. NV 89445. was erected in 1863. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. There is a gift shop next door. NV 89445. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. The tour visits 30 sites. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. along with a thank you note. 705 East Fourth Street. Like something out of old Mexico. Winnemucca.000 in gold. % 702623-5025. but all are easily drivable. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. NV 89445. US Forest Service. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. The former First National Bank. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. The thieves escaped to Texas. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. . One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. 95 Bridge Street. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. St. 602 Bridge Street. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. one of two in the country. Winnemucca. Winnemucca. % 702-623-1500. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. 352 Bridge Street. % 702-623-5025.
A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. established Scottsdale in 1866. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s.300 people had moved by 1913.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Jungo. The camp was abandoned by 1869. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. The Rochester Mining District. Three years later the village became Paradise City. which serves as a meeting place and information center. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. along with the local watering hole. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. once a busy town of more than 2. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. the town was an empty shell. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. which . then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. Today about 100 people live in town. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. Midas is two miles from this junction. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. A 20th-century ghost town. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. To reach the remains of the camp. all but 250 people left. and 2. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. after fending off resident Paiutes. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town.
especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. biking. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. this is Cowboy Country. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. After all. fishing and camping. % 702-578-3381. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. % 702-623-5025. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Basque . Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. It’s the white. A state park. 1515 Idaho Street.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. this town of about 25.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. verdant marshes. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. (See Adventures and Camping. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. In Winnemucca. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. obtain maps. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. The local mining. however. offers a bar. is easy to locate. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. located on the extreme east end of town. beautiful high-country lake. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. deli and soda fountain. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. % 702-7383418. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. Just south of town.) In town. Gas is also available. sometimes an angler’s paradise. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. Paradise Saloon. (See Adventures.
The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June.Touring n 139 immigrants. % 800-8727245. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. and Sunday.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. % 702-738-7123. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 501 Railroad Street. % 702-738-7508. Admission is free. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. The museum is open Monday through Saturday.C. Deweys Rent-A-Car. Displays of local wildlife. and a charter airline. El Aero Services. geography. 10 AM to 5 PM. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). also known as J. % 800-654-3131. % 800-331-1212. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. . The Western Folklife Center. % 800-453-9417. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. 1 PM to 5 PM. % 702-738-5131. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. along with various other events throughout the year. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. Harris Field. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. 9 AM to 5 PM. Hertz Rent-A-Car. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. geology and industry abound. For airport information.
The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. 89803. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. 90. (See Adventures and Camping. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. Elko Chamber of Commerce. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. located southeast of Elko. 89801.387 feet at Ruby Dome. with elevations ranging up to 11. % 702-738-7135. Humboldt National Forest. 89801. 700 Moren Way. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. Elko. Elko. % 702-753-0200. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. 89801. Alpine vistas.800 feet). Elko. From town. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. % 800-248-ELKO. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. Elko. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. 1601 Idaho Street. passing Powerhouse picnic area.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. At the . 976 Mountain City Highway. From Elko. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. 3900 East Idaho Street. including the remote. % 702-738-5171. fishing and camping in the entire West.
A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. see below. Ruby Dome.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. U-shaped valley. Even when they are open. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. is visible in the west. For access to both. and there’s no argument here. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. turns south. rising 11. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. Yes. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. and by the 1930s the rush was over. so drive cautiously. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time.Touring n 141 crest. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. a high clearance vehicle is required. is spectacular.387 feet. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. check with the owners of the Trading Post. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. From the south. . The road leads east 21 miles. down into Jarbidge Canyon. For details on all of this. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. More than 1. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. or call them at % 702-488-2315. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. (See On Foot. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin.500 people flooded into the region. Nevada. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. the road meets the Jarbidge River. Idaho. then north another 25 miles. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. From Wells. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. this town sticks to Mountain Time. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff.
the main artery running up the east side of the state. n Wells From Elko. Sunday until 9 PM. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. which rises to 11. The range is also home to Angel Lake. the 44. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. both available at the Trading Post. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. % 702-752-3215.) On the Utah side of the state line. % 801-665-7721. exit at No. To access the flats.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. The town was abandoned in 1942. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. For ghost town fans. however. the main difference between the two sides being. Before entering town. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. 4 and go five miles northeast. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. reached easily via a paved highway. of course. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. head east from the border. stare out across the famous. the presence of casinos.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. Bonneville Speedway Museum. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. try Stuart’s Foodtown. and the 37. n Wendover From Wells.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. Cool. 647 Humboldt Avenue. This is also the junction of US 93.
then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. Eagles. % 702-664-3414. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. is held in late March or early April.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. falcons and ospreys are common. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. The night before the events. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. a . is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. which attracts upwards of 10. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. which gains 1. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. the historic World War II B-29s. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out.000 buckaroos. June Both hay. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. hawks. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs.600 feet in two miles. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. February Wells holds its annual chariot races.
Phone numbers can be found above. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. featuring food. when tanks. The largest Basque get-together in the US.or 23-mile loop. July In July. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. For details. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. There is a traditional dance contest. under Touring. In Wendover. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. dancing. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. six. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. hear the music and eat the food. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. call % 702-635-8245. . hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun.. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. a parade and feats of strength. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. Unless otherwise indicated. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. Near Wendover. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. The town of McDermitt.
go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. including the 31. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet.834 feet). nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. Falcon Press Publishing. Pronghorn antelope. Star Peak.200 feet.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. passable by high-clearance vehicles. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. 1994. This makes for a great loop drive. The trailhead appears after three miles. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. To reach the trailhead. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. Aspen. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. To reach the trail. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. From here.732) is the highest point. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. willow and cottonwood country. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. From the top. Star Peak (elevation 9. leads due east toward the highest point. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit.000 feet in four miles. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. climbing more than 4. Granite Peak (elevation 9. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. the road. Chartered in 1989. The trail is punishing. which . crossing Buffalo Creek. The first half of the moderately strenous.
descends toward a watercourse. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. cirque basins. Return the way you came. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. big horn sheep. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. Horses are welcome on these trails. including Singas Creek. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. % 702-623-5025. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains.” Elevations range from 6. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. glacial lakes. where you turn south. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. about one mile south of town.800 feet above sea .415). Come prepared for anything. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. narrow canyons. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. more than 10. Mountain lions. Hikers can visit rock peaks. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11.6 miles to a parking area. depending on weather conditions. USGS 7. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage.
Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. and his dog Molly. After about a mile and a half. Hyslop. know this region as well as anyone.500 feet. The pass is often closed in winter. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. this is the high point of the trek. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass.400 feet. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. Franklin Lake NW. The 1. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. of course.300-foot . The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. From Roads End. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. Feel free.400 feet and heads north. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. set at 9. % 702-752-3357. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass.Adventures n 147 level. so check road conditions before heading out. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. At 10. % 702-738-7135. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. Pause to rest but not to fish. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. as there are no trout here. The five-mile.
To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. Just past the spring. From the trailhead. subalpine forests. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. the closest town. Return the way you came. Finally. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. Unfortunately. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. Idaho. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip.000-foot mark. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air.700 feet.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic.000 feet to 10. Wild- . crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. Most of the paths are found in the 113.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. The trail drops again. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. On a good day. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
and everything is open year-round. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. To reach the lake from Elko. % 702-623-5025. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. brown and rainbow trout. supports brook. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. Channel cats. rainbows. The site has a paved boat ramp. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . call % 702-758-6493. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. mountain whitefish. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. is also a good fishing spot. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. campsites and restrooms. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. For more information. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. and black bass have become a favorite catch.
great sandhill crane.154 n Cowboy Country ers.800 feet. Turn left and head south 32 miles. For an easier drive from Wells. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike.000 acres. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. Angel Lake Near Wells. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. white-faced ibis. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. trumpeter swam. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. contact the US Forest Service. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. To reach the refuge from Elko. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. short-eared owl and American kestrel. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. including bald and golden eagle. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. % 702-738-5171. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. For more information. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. Within six miles of the trailhead. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. At the foot of the range. midway between the northern and southern portions. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. elevation 8. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. . The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. so check road conditions before heading out.
In warmer months. Raley’s. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. have become a local haven for divers. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. Grandview Marine. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. % 702-777-DIVE. crystalline Blue Lakes. 1250 Lamoille Highway. HC 60. 285 12th Street. For more information. 89833. Elko Guide Service. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. 89833. Secret Pass Outfitters. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. 89801. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. PO Box 685. 89801. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. % 702-7382775. HC30 Box 17 #13. % 702779-2268. % 702779-2226.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. Rainbow. HC 60. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. % 702-625-2453. catfish. the bowcut trout. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . % 702-664-3414. 423 South Bridge Street. % 702-7442277. To reach the 2. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter.400-acre lake. 89801. % 702-7388473. are the best bets here. the spring-fed. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. 89801. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. PO Box 515. 2511 Mountain City Highway.
% 702-753-6867. lodging and all the extras. restaurant. one tame and the other decidedly not so. % 800-528-1234. along with plenty of room for snowboarders.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. not to mention 74 rooms. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. Trips are limited to 16 people. ranging from 5. $$$. 55 Cornell Avenue. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. $$. covering 5. % 702-273-2937. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. pool and jacuzzi. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. is the most happening place in town. $-$$. To reach the ranch from I80. 2805 Unionville Road. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. with a 24-hour casino.000 acres of skiable mountain. offers 130 acres of terrain. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. % 702-738-7135.200 feet. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. % 702-538-7585.500 to 6.500 feet. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. The Lovelock Inn. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. 1420 Cornell Avenue. The outfit boasts 5. is convenient to I-80. lounge. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. Lunch and dinner are extra.200 vertical feet. Although there isn’t a television to be found. . then head west for five miles to town. depending on snowfall. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. Elko SnoBowl.
The Red Lion not only has a casino. 3015 Idaho Street. the Ameritel Inn Elko. in- . $$-$$$. restaurant and bar. $$$$$. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. % 702-623-1116. offers 40 rooms. $-$$. There are also two Best Westerns. % 702-738-8421. $-$$. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. $$-$$$$. % 702-623-5248. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Days Inn. a pool and 223 rooms. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. is for you. $-$$. and the Model T Motel. the 170-room Holiday Inn. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. $$$. % 800-262-8901. % 800-545-0044. and the Motel 6. % 800-645-5658. % 702-738-8425. 837 Idaho Street. Casino Express. There are plenty of cheap. the Red Lion Inn. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. casino. $$. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. a lounge with live entertainment. % 702-623-3646.000. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. 1930 Idaho Street. % 702-625-1818. $$. % 702-7387261. % 800-633-6435. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. 400 1st Street. 2050 Idaho Street. The Gold Country Inn. % 702-738-8787. the 80-room Val-U Inn. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. basic motels on the main drag. restaurant and full bar. $$-$$$. offering 70 rooms. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$. including the queen of Elko establishments. eateries. but also its own charter airline. $$. 2065 Idaho Street. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. and the generic. % 800-346-5306. % 702-623-1180. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. the Gold Country Motor Inn. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. % 702-623-3661. with 150 rooms. starting with the two biggies. the Red Lion Inn. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the Super 8. $$-$$$. and the Holiday Motel. $$.
jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. $$-$$$. . is an exclusive. biking and horseback riding. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. jacuzzi and fitness center. a swimming pool. % 702-738-5141. 345 Idaho Street. % 702-578-3530. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. The Shilo Inn. % 702-738-7115. There are 141 rooms. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. including skeet shooting. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. detached cabin with jacuzzi. restaurants. 2401 Mountain City Highway. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. % 702-753-6363. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. Just outside of Lamoille. 89828. some with kitchenettes. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. 1755 Idaho Street. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. % 702-738-5522. Lamoille. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. has 70 rooms. $-$$. $$$$. PO Box 281208. Stockmen’s Hotel. Stonehouse Country Inn. % 702-738-8488. % 702-753-6281. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. $-$$. There is even space for campers and RVers. $$$-$$$$. Away from Idaho Street. % 702-753-6356. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. $$. bar and pool. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. $$-$$$. $-$$. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. $$$-$$$$. along with a pool. $$$-$$$$. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. Red’s Ranch. hiking and fly fishing. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. 340 Commercial Street. PO Box 281381. and the Thunderbird Motel. Jiggs Guest Ranch. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. $$.
% 702-752-3353. $. the Chinatown Motel. % 702-752-2116. If not. has 56 rooms. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. and the Best Western Sage Motel. % 702-752-3888. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. 1250 East 6th Street. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. $-$$. PO Box 1300. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. offers another 24 rooms. % 702-488-2311. $-$$. $. and the Old West Inn. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. $-$$$$. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. Cottonwood Ranch. % 702-752-2151. if you’re into chains.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. % 800-848-7300. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. On the north side of town. $$$-$$$$. % 702-488-2315. % 702-7523065. 456 6th Street. Down the street. % 702-752-2277. $-$$. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. $$-$$$. the Rest Inn Suites. There are more than 1. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. Together . $. $-$$. 576 6th Street. % 702-752-3384. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. Jarbidge. the Outdoor Inn. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. even by the neighbors in Utah. There are 57 rooms. % 702-752-3604. HC 62. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. PO Box 260090. % 702-752-2101. most of them planted along 6th Street. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. $$-$$$. The Super 8. $. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. % 702-4082338. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. HC 62. PO Box 300. 326 6th Street. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. On Main Street.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. 100 Wendover Boulevard. 89826. For more information. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. which also has a restaurant and bar. 930 6th Street. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations.
% 702-273-2442. lounges. including restaurants and lounges. La Casita. $-$$. 750 Cornell Avenue. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. lunch and dinner. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. which basks in the Basque tradition. $$-$$$. live showroom entertainment. % 702-273-2971. 1420 Cornell Avenue. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week.000-square-foot casino. Nearby. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. which has live entertainment. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. % 702-273-3232. a 14. a health club. offers breakfast. 410 Cornell Avenue. and Pizza Factory. restaurants. along with daily specials. tennis courts. % 702-623-3197. 485 Cornell Avenue. jacuzzi. live entertainment. Mexican food and pizza. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. % 702-273-7444. 9 PM on Sunday. serving steak. % 702-664-2888. is another gamer’s haven. 680 Wendover Boulevard. The Peppermill Hotel. % 800-537-0207. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. and until 2 PM on Sunday. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. is open until 10 PM every day. % 800-648-9660. leg of lamb. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. % 702-273-7773. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. Wee B’s Pizza & More. pool and jacuzzi.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. shrimp and Basque side dishes. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. In the center of town. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. . pool. the Super 8. 260 Maine Street. $$. with 90 rooms. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other.
% 702-623-6777. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. seafood and chicken. The atmosphere is definitely casual. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. Another Basque establishment. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. This being ranch country. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. 180 Melarkey Street. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. since 1863. 1550 Idaho Street. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. 95 South Bridge Street. but get there before 1 PM. China Garden. % 702-738-9691. % 702-623-3455. The Steak House. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. Restaurante San Fermin. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. Stockmen’s Hotel. % 702-623-2977. Toki Ona. Specializing in steak. 1061 West Fourth Street. 405 Silver Street. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. % 702-738-3214. % 800-545-0044. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. 2065 Idaho Street. 340 Commercial Street. % 702-625-2555. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. Elko The Red Lion Inn. all of their meat is cut to order. % 702-623-2908. % 702-738-5141. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. home of the world’s largest potato field. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. % 702-623-4104. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. while The Griddle. % 702-623-4440. . 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet.
to peruse the ornate bar.300 souls. delivers on its name. % 702-753-3877. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. Burger Bar. 217 Idaho Street. % 702-752-3210. % 702-738-7088. 780 Commercial Street. Pizza Barn. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. % 702-753-6356. also serves hearty meals. 1740 Mountain City Highway. where it survived The Big One in ’06. depending on weather conditions. . % 702-738-1622. % 702-4882315. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. If you crave Mexican food. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. Prices range from moderate to expensive. % 702-738-7898. 9 Beans and a Burrito. Main and Humboldt Streets. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. % 702-7382541. Pine Lodge. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. % 702-488-2311. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. 2525 Mountain City Highway. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. opens daily at 11 AM. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. La Fiesta. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. % 702-753-6363. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens.
the area has two campgrounds. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. call % 702-738-5171. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. 27 and 29 are especially good. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. two beautiful US Forest Service . For more information. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. offer 12 different restaurants. call % 800-962-2638. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. For modern hunter-gatherers. located at the end of Hanson Street.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir.600 feet. 22 miles north of Lovelock. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. The fee is $7 per night. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. % 800-648-9660. just north of the dam. 100 Wendover Boulevard. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. 25. $8 for a two-family site. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. For more information. which holds trout and walleye. % 800-848-7300. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. 23. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. The main draw here is 11. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. The other one. Fees are $7 per night in summer. Set at 7. Sites 22. There is running water and vault toilets. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. The Peppermill Hotel. Set at 7. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. call % 702-538-7321. For more information. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. $3 per night in winter.400 feet.
For more information. depending on the availability of running water. One mile north of town. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. The campground. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest.800 feet and is popular with anglers. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. but no running water. first-served sites. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. offering 18 sites with running water.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. % 702-752-3357. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. Angel Creek is set at 6. and the fee is $8 per night. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. % 208-5434129. The cabins are open October through mid-May. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. including three run by the US Forest Service. has 37 first-come. with running water.900 feet. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. Set at 8. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. and are open June to October. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. and the fee is $7 per night. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. About five miles up NV 225. all free. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752.500 feet. For information on the above campgrounds. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. The fee is $5 per night. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. . Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground.
The Shoshone and Paiute peoples.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. US For- B Pioneer Territory . Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. however. who once roamed this entire area. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. Meanwhile. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. writer. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. like Belmont and Rhyolite. both socially and physically.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. Others. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. an 11. are in a state of “arrested decay.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
Nevada Division of State Parks. and six state parks to explore. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. People and services are scarce. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. Geographically. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. Department of Defense. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. In the Mojave Desert. but the rest of the country. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains.000. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. then limber pine at higher elevations.Touring n 167 est Service. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. affordable housing . There is plenty of unspoiled territory. Toiyabe. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. Rocky Mountain elk. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. In the lowlands. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. low taxes. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory.
as of this writing. mission-style. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. % 702-7270896. 3810 Winery Road.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. only winery in Nevada. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. The 22. It’s also one of the hottest.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . In 1997. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. blue and white building. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). is the first and.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. there’s no competition). The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. % 702-751-0821. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. On the south end of town in a modern. authorizing up to 90. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. According to Winona LaDuke. 1771 Sagehen Road. 1141 South Highway 160. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. % 702-7276900. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. % 702-727-5800.
moorhens. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. however. % 702-372-1131. then head west for about 20 miles. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home.300 spread over 545 square miles. prairie falcons. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. coyotes and rabbits. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. great blue herons. % 702-372-5435. following the signs to Ash Meadows. whitefaced ibises. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. mallards. It’s no easy job. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. Visitors can. coots. inaccessible to the general public. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. including ducks. NV 89020. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. snipe. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. HCR 70. . whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. and the second-greatest in all of North America. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. for some handmade Mexican food. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. Box 610Z. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. Amargosa Valley.
Kelly’s Bottle House. Now recognized as a state historic site. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. . the gray. % 702-3725459. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley.000. three newspapers. for more information. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. 50 saloons. and the old train depot. HC 70. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. NV 89020. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. % 702-5532200. 19 hotels. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center.000. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. Amargosa Valley.000 claims over 30 square miles. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. maps. PO Box 6102.
Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. when the money ran dry. By 1920. crystal chandeliers. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel.” a collection of white. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. In the first decade of the 20th century. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. Today the remains of stone buildings. Goldfield Founded in 1902. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. Local residents were used as models. however. % 702-553-2424. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. Once the largest city in the state. life-size. keeping a population of more than 20. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. . the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. turn-of-the-century frontier community. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984.000. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. Between Beatty and Rhyolite.000 dizzy with gold fever. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. constructed in 1908 for $500. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95.
? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. Before heading out. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. % 702-482-9676. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. and east-west-running US 6. including the old post office that is now the local museum. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. % 702-485-6365. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. % 702482-3558. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. . then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. built in 1908 and still in use today. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. however. and spend a few hours following its trail.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. the Central Nevada Museum. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. 301 Brougher Avenue.
As a judge. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. including a map room. 9 AM to 5 PM. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. see below under On Foot. The museum is open daily. Bartlett House. A library. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. and the 1907 George A. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. which total more than 260. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. slide show and research facilities. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. Mineral. the town exploded – figuratively – and . When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. As this is being written. Located on the north edge of town. For more on these wonderful regions.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. which helped put the state on the map. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. In 1911. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. ore bins. are available by special request. which dates to 1906. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. photographs and exhibits. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. For more information. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. with Hawthorne the new seat. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne.000 acres. Like many Nevada locales. power plants. call % 702-482-5355. Admission is free.
Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. Nevada seat and the Mono . fire and railroad equipment. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. restaurant and Native American gift shop. however. minerals. paved road on the right. % 702-945-5142. at the corner of 10th and D streets. a combination truck stop. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. At the zenith of its existence. To reach Candelaria. 898 E Street. Victorian furniture. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in.500 people. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself.) Before heading to the lake.000. and by 1890 the good times were over. The Mineral County Museum. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads.000 residents. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. % 702-945-3266. Admission is free. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. noon to 4 PM in winter. To see where it all started. The museum is open Monday through Friday. (See On Water. Near the northern tip of the lake. wildlife and fossils. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. rocks. just three miles from the California border. below. The main attraction. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. is nearby Walker Lake. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. the town boasted 1. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. cameras and photography. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. Take this road six miles to the town. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
The park. The 2. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions.200 feet. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. There are 42 campsites. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. located in a long. native plants and unique rock formations. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. is open year-round. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. All of them offer overnight camping. For information on any or all. Boats are not recommended. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. % 702-728-4467. pinyon and juniper forests. along with many other events. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. From Caliente. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. set at 5. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. but travel is not advised during winter months. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. below). From .Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water.
men in black and all things conspiratorial. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town.000. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. Packed with historic points of interest. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. There are 37 campsites. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. hazy afternoon. for a walking/driving tour map. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. true believers theorize. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. government cover-ups. they ran up to $1 million. All told. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. Winter travelers might also find snow here. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. From Caliente. % 702-962-5215. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. The original building costs totaled $16. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are .
stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. including the old mill. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. The park is open all year. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. or fish lizards. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. Ichthyosaurs. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. If you’re in the neighborhood. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. % 702-729-2515.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. sleeping quarters. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. a thought scarier than any little green men. a bar and cemetery. selling souvenirs and literature. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- .
up through the sparse forest of . where desert bighorn sheep. deer. following a stream into Trail Canyon.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. to NV 884. The hike begins on the road. travel west six miles to NV 773. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. turn right. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. For more information. There are numerous access points to the 115.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. From here go seven miles to a junction. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. elk. mountain lion. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. June. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. October and November. From here. the highest point in Nevada at 13. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. call % 702-867-3001. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle.000 feet in 3½ miles. through Gabbs. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. The trail seems faint at times. April. The trail climbs nearly 2. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. To reach the park from Hawthorne. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. July. Interpretive tours are held in March. Return the way you came. August. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. Located in the relatively dry.140 feet. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. then half a mile east. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west.
From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead.361-foot Arc Dome. The path descends further. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. and at higher elevations. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. About 500 yards beyond the mill. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). USGS quads for Carvers NW. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. The 38. the trail gains 1. too. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. limber pine. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. another narrow. pinyon pine and juniper. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. The main trail leads straight ahead. up and up alongside the South Twin River.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. nine miles from the trailhead. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. About a mile and a half later. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. Pine Creek. Consult Toms Canyon. where it crosses the water several times. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail.020-foot Peavine Peak. .
From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. south. Return the way you came. The high point. 11. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. which tops out at 11. The summit trail. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. literally and figuratively. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. which marks the way to Pine Creek. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. After turning west. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. In fact. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground.000 years ago.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. is lined with aspen and birch. From Tonopah. deer and coyote. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. is imposing Mount Jefferson. It was used as a hunting camp 5. mountain lion.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state.949 feet above sea level. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. . then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. Turn left and head toward the highest point. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. going west.
then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. Hikers should have maps and a compass. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . Head north 26 miles to Belmont. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. The 98. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff.000 acres. The trail first splits at mile three. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. Elk. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. From the trailhead. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. so travel with care. This is remote. rugged country. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. and the skills to use them. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. To complete a nice loop hike. The main trail continues straight ahead. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. with Dry Lake off to the west. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. climbing up the creek drainage. As you’ll see.856foot Monitor Peak. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. set aside in 1989. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness.
Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. in Echo Canyon State Park. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. Meanwhile.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. % 702-4826286. Enjoy the views. White’s masterful book. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. some will lead hikes and photography trips. crosses the water and begins a steep. refer to Michael C. then continue south two miles back to the campground. Also close by. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. then descending into Ash Canyon. Once atop the plateau. . half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. Wilderness Press. 1997.
89045. Just beyond the right-of-way. % 702-964-1207. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. Grand Slam Safaris. % 702-964-2145. Mason Valley Guide Service..108 feet. 8½ miles from US 95. Howard. Jr. James S. Roy Lerg. 89430. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. . and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. unmarked hike to the summit. % 702-463-4497. Mustang Outfitters. 27 Smith Gage Road. Moapa Adam R. Box 77206. The road turns east briefly. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. you’ve gone too far. (If you pass Millers. % 702-283-7797. HCR 60. PO Box 168. Smith. PO Box 725. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. % 702-482-6422. which. PO Box 1149. % 702-465-2598. 89317. Stahl. % 702-482-6258. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. then continues south to a junction. Nicholas Perchetti. Timberline Outfitters. 89025. turn left and head due south. Lewis. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. 89049. at 9.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. 89447. Yerington Marty S. leaving a strenuous. climbing into a small valley. 89045. PO Box 65. Timberline Outfitters. PO Box 428. Round Mountain William A. Galvin. PO Box 162. Berg. 89049. Lund Gary Luisetti. Expeditions Unlimited.
then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. For road conditions. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. Just north of Pine Creek. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass.000 to construct in 1876. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). known for abundant wildlife. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. The other ruins are on private property. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. A few dozen people still live in the area. so keep your distance. however. Belmont saw most of the 2. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. % 702-482-6331.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. % 702377-2490. and Pine Creek. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. which was first settled in the 1860s. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . with dredging continuing into the 1970s. is open for business on weekends. Continuing north.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. Manhattan boomed. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. The Belmont Saloon.
Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet.2 mile west of Lockes going south. For more information contact the BLM.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. stay out. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). mountain mahogany and aspen. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. to establish missions. The springs are half a mile away. Wilson National Back Country Byway. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. Continuing north. Pioneer Territory Mt. Take an unpaved road . Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. but check on road conditions before you go. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. . From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. As tempting as a bath might seem. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. % 702-482-7800. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. Not only is the water very hot. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. the fauna changes to ponderosa. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. then part of Utah Territory. From Pioche.
Just a mile north of Dyer. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. Two of the best spots are Peavine . but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. % 702-727-8276. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. % 702727-4504. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. 13.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. At Oakridge Landing. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump.140-foot Boundary Peak. Information Sources For more information and a map. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. brown. cutthroat and rainbow trout. 5340 South Oakridge Road. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. contact the BLM. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. % 702289-4865. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote.
% 702-482-6286. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. April. Beginning at the southern end of the lake.7 miles north of Hawthorne). About 70 miles north of Tonopah. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. rainbow and brown trout.4 miles). October and November. however. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. After the road peters out. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. In fact. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). .000 acres. Covering 37. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. The lake is named for Joe Walker. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. picnic facilities and boat ramp. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. Fishing derbies are held in February. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts.
both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. Boaters are welcome. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. Bishop. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. are the main attraction here. about 13 miles south of the confluence. CA. 633 Schley Street. Contact the refuge office. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. Classic Anglers. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot.000 acres. but motors are prohibited. % 702-394-4040. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. for details. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Hawthorne. NV 89415. largemouth bass and white crappie. Kathleen L. while Canada geese. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). write the group at PO Box 867. % 760-872-2533 . % 702-725-3417. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. 93514. Howe. which are stocked in spring and fall. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. Brown trout.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests.
who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. 89049. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. The big enchilada is Saddle West. Stahl. James S. % 702-3721717. The family-style outings. home on the range. at least temporarily.. Timberline Outfitters. 89447. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. Berg. Nicholas Perchetti. Mason Valley Guide Service. 89104. Timberline Outfitters. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. PO Box 1149. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Advance reservations are highly suggested. Howard. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. Tonopah Stanley R. % 702-482-6422. 89045. 89049. Box 77206. Galvin. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. PO Box 725. PO Box 65. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . Jr. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. Mustang Outfitters. 1220 South Highway 160. Suite 9B. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. PO Box 168. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. % 702-889-8844. % 702-482-6258. 89045. % 702-964-1207.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. % 702-964-2145. HCR 60. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny.
though. 9000 North 5th Avenue. % 702553-2912. The other two motels are the El Portal. . lounge. a convenience store. which has 30 rooms and a pool. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. $-$$. $-$$. $. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. $-$$. Highway 160 at Loop Road. US 95 at First Street. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. a casino with live 21. 420 West Main Street. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. a restaurant. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. including a heated pool. casino and lounge. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. 604 Main Street. $-$$. hair salon. was built in 1905. while the inn offers laundry services. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. $-$$. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. $-$$. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. % 702-727-5445. The Exchange Club Motel. There are 60 rooms. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. % 800-508-9493. $-$$. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. $-$$. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. A lounge with live entertainment. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. % 702-4853431. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. Don’t worry. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. % 702-727-5100. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. % 702-553-2333. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. % 702-553-2225. With 110 rooms. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. along with a pool and honeymoon room. has 32 rooms. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. In short. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. non-smoking rooms and a pool. % 702-553-2250. 1201 South Highway 160. $.
a pool and whirlpool open May through September. Adjacent to Walker Lake. a casino. two restaurants. The Best Western Desert Lodge. % 702-945-2660. with a restaurant. % 702-482-3511. $. and the sprawling Station House. % 702-482-3577. 1 Cliff House Road. Some of the larger. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. RV hookups. 323 Main Street. $. % 702-482-6224. lounge with entertainment. arcade and laundry. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. $. 700 Main Street. Dating back to 1908. also has a pool. $. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. $. 540 F Street. location. workout equipment. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. Even dogs are welcome. lounge. $. 521 North Main Street. $$. $. % 702482-5920. The Jim Butler Motel. a Jacuzzi and a pool. There are 103 rooms. has 39 rooms. 100 North Main Street. $. Just a block away. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. a restaurant and free coffee. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. which has 93 rooms. % 702-482-6202. $-$$. a casino. % 702-945-2444. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. % 702-482-9777. It has 94 rooms. including four two-bedroom units. and the 33-room Clown Motel. The . the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. at very reasonable rates.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. 826 Main Street. If you’re into chains. pool and free in-room coffee. $. 1100 Main Street. % 702-945-3321. the Butler has 25 rooms. Location. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. comes highly rated. has been catering to travelers since 1943. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. with 40 rooms. % 702-945-3352. free movies and is close to the convention center. % 702-482-6238. % 702-482-6291. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. 255 Main Street. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. 100 South Main Street. 1301 5th Street. a heated pool and a small play area. $$. This place has it all: 75 rooms. a restaurant and bar. restaurants. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. RV parking and free continental breakfast. 1402 5th Street.
301 Mesa Boulevard. Run by the Masini family. $$.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. % 702-463-2991. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. Jacuzzi. live entertainment. . pool and movie theater. $-$$. restaurants. % 800-621-0187. a 925-seat showroom. with a 24-hour casino. $. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. % 702-465-2959. $$-$$$. including dozens of suites. $. pool. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. 694 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-3316. % 702-346-7444. has five rooms. % 702-945-2544. which at last count had 1. Jacuzzi. entertainment. has 67 rooms.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. a lounge. $. Jacuzzi. and the Rocket. $$-$$$. $$-$$$. which has 14 rooms. which has two non-smoking rooms. with blueprints for hundreds more. fitness center and live music. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. pool. formerly Players Island. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. golf course. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. airport shuttle. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. a golf course. pool and spa. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. 11 North Main Street. % 702-945-2573. $-$$. 965 Sierra Highway. tennis courts. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. % 800-896-4567. family fun center and an airport shuttle. % 800-346-4611. a pool. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. 39 North Center Street. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 2827 Highway 208. has 700 rooms. $-$$$. 950 Mesquite Boulevard.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. RV park and four bungalows. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. 390 North Sandhill Road. % 702-465-2573. % 702-465-2341. The Casa Blanca. % 702-463-2998. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. $$. $$. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. a pool and a hot tub. a pair of family-style restaurants. $-$$. on the corner of 5th and J streets. % 800-346-7721. which has 14 rooms. the Hawthorne. To find a quieter environment.900 or so residents. movie theater and kids’ play area. bars. various restaurants. 720 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-2143. $-$$. % 702-463-2481. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. bowling alley. Just west of Smith in Wellington. $.
% 702-729-2515. % 702-727-2404. % 702-727-0909. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. Rose Garden. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. has 13 rooms. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. 100 West Stagecoach Road. $. 450 Front Street. $. and the buffet starts at $2. % 702-751-7777. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. Stagestop Casino. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. % 702-9625404.99. % 702-727-6440. also have full-service restaurants. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. No fast food. 1220 South Highway 160. At Saddle West Casino. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. $-$$. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. Flying saucer parking is out back. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. $. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. a restaurant and bar. % 702726-3777. which has five rooms. $-$$. % 702-727-7777. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. pharmacy and bank. % 702-962-5551. % 702-726-3291. is open 24 hours a day. 100 LaCour Street. Besides. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. 601 South Highway 160. which has 22 rooms. the Silver Spur. 884 A Street. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. % 702-726-3106. and welcomes pets.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. $. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. % 702-727-7300. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. .
% 702-9452994. % 702-5532225. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. and Burro Inn. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. including excellent seafood. Maggies. % 702-4823885. 1100 Main Street. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. % 702-945-3321. The Station House. 570 E Street. % 702-463-2481. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. open until 9 PM. Yerington Casino West. % 702-945-2727. 100 North Main Street. % 702-553-2368. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. 1291 5th Street. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. The Exchange Club. 923 5th Street. % 702-945-3908. 348 North Main Street. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. also have family-style restaurants. try Happy Buddha. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. 785 E Street. % 800508-9493. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. % 702-945-5253. The . If you’re in the mood for Mexican. % 702-945-1700. has a great $7. 11 North Main Street. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. % 702-945-3320. fill the menu. also has a 24-hour café. % 702-482-6202. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. 540 F Street. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. Traditional American and Continental fare. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. is the home of two restaurants. % 702482-9777. 501 I Street. % 702-553-2111. you could do worse than El Marques.
Peavine Campground is set at 6. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. % 702-4623300. % 702-463-2054. 702-726-3138. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . is like a blast from the 50s. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. lunch and dinner. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. % 800-346-7721. % 702463-2868. along with the usual buffet. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. % 702-7263194. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. 2281 West Scales Way. 11 North ALT 95. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. % 702-727-2314. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. % 800-896-4567. Dini’s Luck Club. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. 111 Highway 208. The Mason Valley Country Club.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. To reach the campground from Tonopah. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. The Casa Blanca. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. Carl’s Burgers. has a 24-hour coffee shop. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. which serves breakfast. % 702-4633707. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. serves breakfast. satisfying and never-ending. % 800-621-0187. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. 45 North Main Street. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. The Virgin River Hotel. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. Two blocks up. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. There’s even an indoor workout facility.
For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. For information. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. % 702-687-6100.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. From Tonopah. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. % 702-945-3373. providing access to fishing and hiking. . unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. contact the BLM. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. From here. To reach the campground from Tonopah. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. For directions. above. The campground is another three miles away.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness.100foot level. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne.800 feet in the Monitor Range. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. the unpaved road goes south briefly. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. through Belmont. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. There are 11 sites set at 6. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. offers sites for $11 per night.700 feet. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. % 702-4826286. To reach the campground from Tonopah. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. There is no running water and no fee. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. see On Foot.
They are listed in alphabetical order. Suggested Reading . Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. 1993. Frank Amato Publications. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Moon Publishing. 1994. published by the State of Nevada. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. 1998. 1997.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. 1996. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. DeLorme. Basin and Range by John McPhee. 1995. 1997. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. 1993. Noonday Press. 1990. 1995. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. American Automobile Association. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. Falcon Press Publishing. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. Henry Holt and Company. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. American Automobile Association. Falcon Press Publishing. David Communications.
. Roughing It by Mark Twain. . 1969. La Siesta Press. 1997. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. 1992. Wilderness Press. Falcon Press Publishing. 1997. 1997. Legend and Description by David J. American & Geographic World Publishing. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Stolley. 1993. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Falcon Press Publishing. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Clark. 1993. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Maturi. Jr. Mojave Books. Bischoff. White. 1995. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. Gem Guides Book Company. The Globe Pequot Press.
49. 8386. Mount Jefferson. 182. 126. Reno-Tahoe area. accommodations. wildlife and bird watching antelope. wagon trips. 10. Reno-Tahoe area. Ichthyosaur State Park. 15-16. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 121. 123. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 193-197. 187-190. 102. 32. hiking. camping. 91 Barley Creek. Pony Express territory. 131. Las Vegas area. Pioneer territory. 67-70. touring. restaurants. 28. 115. 142. 13. 135. 26-27 buses. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 174 canoeing. fishing. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 200 Basque people. 125-128. 119-120. 179. camping. 17. 29. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). events. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. see water sports car rental. 89. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. see also zoos. Las Vegas. 86. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 163-164. 41-43. 184. 115-116 ballooning. accommodations. 146.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. see also petroglyphs. hiking. 183-184. Leonard Rock Shelter. 152. 43-44. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 17. 94-95. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. restaurants. 200 altitude sickness. 199-201. camping. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 164. transportation. specific towns airlines. outfitters. 185. 54-55. biking. 144 backpacking. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 120-123. 117-118. Pony Express territory. 50-52. 156160. biking. 182-183. 48-49. 118. 117. 75-76. 194. 13-15. 85. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. touring. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 169-170 Anasazi people. Pioneer territory. 132. 15-16. 10-12. 124 auto racing. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. touring. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 2. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 198. 144. Pony Express territory. hiking outfit- Index . Lovelock Indian Cave. 187-188 biking. Pioneer territory. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. wild. 113. 78 BLM. biking. 137 Candelaria. 198. 179. 168-169. 144. 103. safety rules. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. restaurants. special events. 46. 36. 193. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 104. 193 Aurora. camping. 67 bowling. 169. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 186 Belmont. 132-133. 117-119. 155 boating. 15-16 bird watching. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 104-107. 181-182. 42 burros. 78. camping. 174-175 Austin. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. Bonneville Salt Flats. 194. festivals. 77. 187-190. 35. restaurants. 76. pictographs art galleries. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. price scale. Reno-Tahoe area. events. Cottonwood Valley. 118. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 129-130 bungee jumping. 199. 154 animal life. 38. skydiving. fishing.183. 27. see transportation air tours. see transportation Carson City. horseback riding. 152. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 3135. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. see also camping. 92-96. touring. Elko. Las Vegas territory. safety rules. 27 books. 142. 197.
outfitters. 109 Glacier Trail. 98 fossils. 142. restaurants. 161-162. touring. touring. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 118. Metropolis. 15-16. outfitters. Jungo. restaurants. 176. Rochester Mining District. restaurants. accommodations. 170. 194-195. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 116. 152-155. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 179. Hamilton. 138-139. 168. biking. 111. Treasure City. camping. 109. 112 Genoa. events. auto racing. accommodations. Camp Winfield Scott. 4-5 Gardnerville. 70-71. Candelaria. 44-48. 143-144. 15-16 Fremont. outfitters. hiking. Pony Express territory. 142 Great Basin. 40. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. see events fish. 179. outfitters. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 46 Comstock Lode. Pioneer territory. fishing. fishing. 179. 185. Toquima Cave. 150-151. camping. Reno-Tahoe area. Lake Tahoe area. hiking. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 80.5 Cathedral Gorge. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 131. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 174-175. touring. 126. pupfish. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 119. 14 Colorado River. 186 elk. 77. camping. 119. Pyramid Lake Fishway. touring. 102-104. 174. 86. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 6-7 ters. 126-127. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. fishing. 176. 109. 87 Dayton. springfish. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. Las Vegas territory. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 109. 172 golf. 112. 108 events: Cowboy country. 106. 143. 188-189 Clemens. 192. hiking outfitters.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 178. 125. 163-164. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 121-122. 70. 37-41. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 73. 177. 119-120. Shermantown. 120. 169. 112. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. fishing. 190-193. 184. 74 Death Valley National Park. Las Vegas area. 200 Cowboy Country. 67. 12. 132-133. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 35-36. 110. restaurants. 160 Goshute Mountains. 122-123. Rhyolite. 170. 98. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 134-135. 88. 137. 124. Las Vegas area. 180 Earth Connections. 171. 152. Gold Center. 17. 179. 137. hiking. camping. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 170-171 Denio Junction. 82. Cowboy country. 187-190. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 139 cruises. 167. 89. 4. transportation. 121. Northumberland Cave. 155-156. 29. 139140 Ely. 120-121.. 83. 18-19 climbing. 147-148 Eberhardt. Midas. special events. 175 climate. restaurants. 177. Lehman Caves. Dunn Hatchery. 75. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. mercury warnings. Samuel. 153 Chimney Springs. sport-climbing ratings. touring. 106 diving. 100. 137. 155. 12. 117. 22. 65 gambling. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. camping. 127. 74. 139. camping. 144. 3. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. John C. 188-189 fishing. horseback riding. 97. 13-15. safety rules. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. camping. 116-117. 125. 125. 43-44. 75. camping. 157-158. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 137. 78 casinos. 115 Gold Center. 182. 171-172 Gold Point. 93 Davis Creek County Park. Pioneer territory. Eberhardt. skiing. 149-150. Reno-Tahoe territory. 185. Lovelock Indian Cave. 190 . accommodations. 79.
Reno-Tahoe territory. 47. 29-31. 165-167. 162. 28. 52-53. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region.Index Great Basin National Park. 148-149 jeep tours. 116-117. 159. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. skiing. 79. 151. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 137 kayaking. Pioneer territory. horseback riding. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 149-150. 153. transportation. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 60. 65. touring. 77. air tours. 46. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 91 information sources. camping. 149. 146. balloning and soaring. 192. see air tours Hemenway Park. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. Midas Hot Spring. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 1. hiking. 3536. events. biking. restaurants. 75. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 112-117. 37-41. 41. 140-141 land. 118 Lone Mountain. 23-29. Las Vegas territory. skiing. 38. 99-100. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 64. hiking. outfitters. 93. 31-35. touring. 145-150. Las Vegas. 40-41. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 83-84. 55. 83. touring. 32-33 Lake Mohave. Las Vegas area. 200-201. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. 166. 50-52. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 20. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 53-54. 163. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. special events. 91-92. 107. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 150. camping. 188-189. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. restaurants. 127. events. 101. biking. fishing. Cowboy country. map. Reno. 88. camping. 125. state. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 78. 44 Las Vegas territory. 13-15. 90 helicopter tours. boating outfitters. Kyle Hot Spring. outfitters. 40. 48. 49-50. description of. 181-187. 83. 66. 62. 160. Las Vegas territory. 64. 32 horseback riding. hiking. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 46. 103 Hamilton. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. hiking outfitters. transportation. 179 Kingston. accommodations. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. Walley’s Hot Springs. hiking. 119 Index . 148-149 Humboldt River. camping. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. touring. 120 Incline Village. 156. 110-112. 186-187. 37-40. camping. Pony Express territory. 78-79 Jungo. restaurants. Pioneer territory. camping. camping. outfitters. 57. 63-66. restaurants. 47 lakes. restaurants. RenoTahoe territory. 90. 80-81 hiking. 39. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. fishing. 187 Manhattan. 102. touring. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. 21-22. 176. Reno-Tahoe territory. 24. 98. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 86. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 158. 111. touring. 152. 54. restaurants. 117 hotels. 106. hiking outfitters. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. water sports. Pioneer territory. 118. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. Nevada. 82. 82. Pony Express territory. watersports. 39 history: Cowboy country. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 162. Pony Express territory. 41-43. 43. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 32-33. 132 Lexington Arch. 45. 46. camping. transportation. 164. 177 mercury warnings. 129-131. snow sports outfitters. 198. touring and transportation. 36. 150. 57-58. 4WD trail. 130. 141-142. 195-196. 193. 48-49. touring.
fishing. camping. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 23 Overton: touring. horseback riding. 173. fishing. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. see accommodations motorcycles. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 199 Metropolis. Lyon County Muserum. 135136. Stewart Indian Museum. hiking. 69. 26. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 171. 171. Wilbur D. Nevada State Railroad Museum. hiking. 91. 106 nuclear testing. 32. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 4. 158. Piper’s Opera House. 25. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 193-194. 170. 73. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 10. Fleischmann Planetarium. 71. 139. 80-81 Native American festivals. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 73. 78. 183. 33. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 26. 11 Mosquito Creek. 142. National Automobile Museum. 126. Nevada Historical Society. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. Las Vegas Art Museum. May Museum and Arboretum. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 200 motels. 8. 177. 142 Midas. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 26. Liberace Museum. see biking Mount Charleston. 153. 61. Central Nevada Museum. restaurants. 181 Moapa. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 199. John. touring. restaurants. skiing and snowboarding. 71. Desert Valley Museum. Humbolt Museum. Mark Twain Museum. 73. 25. 79. Mineral County Museum. fishing. 34. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 199-200. accommodations. Marshall Mint Museum. 173. 34. 174. 177. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 29 Mount Jefferson. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 69. 175. 174. touring. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. The Castle. Clark County Heritage Museum. Eureka Sentinel Museum. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. White Pine Public Museum. 73. 139. 69. 25. see biking mountain biking. 196197. 61. 61. 25-26. 2. 68. Marzen House Museum. outfitters. 61 music and theater. 29. The Way It Was Museum. 98. 34. 197-198. 73. 3-4. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. Roberts House Museum. 71. 68. 109-110. 178. 177. Western Folklife Center. 25. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. Guinness World of Records Museum. 43. touring. Brewery Arts Center. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 165 nuclear waste. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 43. 70. 135. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 68. 2. 188. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 26. hiking outfitters. 4. 72. 31. 67. 107. 108. 23. 72-73. 107. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 133. 86. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 187 Mojave Desert.206 n Index seum. 175. Capitol Building and Museum. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 153 Northumberland Cave. 69. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. camping. 103. 35. 25. 2. 70-71 mines and mining. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. Nevada State Library & Archives. Colorado River Museum. Lost City Museum. 200. 75. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 173. 109. Keck Minerals Museum. 167-168 Paiutes. 134 petroglyphs. Nevada State Mu- . 106 Pine Creek: camping. 61. 180 Minden: events. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 174. 189-190 Muir. 8182 Mesquite. 77. 69. 165. 127 pictographs. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 34. 102. 163. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 83.
hiking. camping. 90 soaring. 144. 92-93. 13 Price Lakes. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 54. hiking and climbing. 193. 160-163. 98. 195. 9 Sand Mountain. 145-146 prostitution. RenoTahoe area. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 170 rivers. see mines and mining skiing. horse. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. bike. special events. 163-164. 90 sport climbing. 104. accommodations. 190. 89-91 skydiving. 200 temperature chart. fishing. 36. 65 Pony Express territory. 27 Spring Mountains: camping.Index Pioche: accommodations. 17. 77. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 165-201 plant life. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. touring. 17. biking. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 150-151. Reno-Tahoe area. 66. restaurants. 113. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 83-84. 169 Pyramid Lake. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 173 Index . 93-94. biking. 78. 180 Pioneer territory. 79. 156. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. transportation. 74 races. auto. 52 pupfish. touring. 180. 26-27. 106 Spooner Lake. 143. 88. restaurants. see events price codes. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. restaurants. 145 Stateline: accommodations. Las Vegas territory. 94 special events. camping. motorcycle. 117. 167. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. Benjamin “Bugsy.” 4 silver. 12. 76. hiking. 80 pronghorn antelope. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 87. 176 rodeos. 85. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. camping. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 114-115 theater. touring. 78. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 9-10. 186-187. 59-61. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 154. skiing. 91. biking. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 48-49 snowboarding. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. touring. camping. 106 Siegel. fishing. 77-78. 84-85 swimming. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. see skiing snowmobiling. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 17. 146-147. 142. 115. 198. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 197. hiking. hiking. 181. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 143 Rachel. outfitters. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 42. 98. 76. 138 rock climbing. see climbing rock hunting. 193. fishing. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 88 Shermantown. 96-97. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). accommodations. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 144. 179. 89. fishing. 109 Shoshone people. 53-54. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 146. 76. Las Vegas area. 112. see events Round House Art Gallery. 82. fishing. 163. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 129-130. 187. 197-199. Pony Express territory. 9697. see climbing springfish. 123-125. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 163. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 54. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. skiing. 79-80. climbing and hiking. 185-186. 17. 197 rafting. 84. 153 Sparks. 49-50. snow sports outfitters. camping. Pioneer territory. 144. water sports. 179 Searchlight. 134.
47 wagon tours and outfitters. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Reno-Tahoe territory. 176. 110. see plant life tufas. 187. 159-160. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 98. Amtrak. 112. fishing. touring. 29-30. 86 Wells: accommodations. High Rock Canyon. restaurants. 149. 188-189. 160-161. 62. 143. 34-35. Mark. camping. 162. Goshute Mountains. 38. 111. 172. 144. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 41. 30-31. 159. 95. fishing. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 109 trees. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 29. 76. camping. Echo Canyon State Park. special events. camping. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 176 wineries. 145-146. 71-74 Virgin River. 177. 192. 62. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 151 Wovoka. climbing and hiking. 176 Yerington: accommodations. 190-193. touring. 55. 142 Wendover: accommodations. Lake Mead. outfitters. restaurants. 33. 79-80. 32. Arc Dome Wilderness. 183-184. 127. 45. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. 106 trains. 179. 39 vineyards. 191-192. Jack’s Valley Road. 97. 127. 134 Twain. 150. Cleve Creek Campground. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 139-140 Treasure City. 25 Topaz Lake. 150. Pioneer territory. events. 62. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 89. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. hiking. 66. hiking. 178. 31. 168-169. Las Vegas territory. Santa Rosa Mountains. 200-201. 185. 156-157. 102. hiking outfitters. Hemenway Park. Wilson Canyon. 117 Toquima Cave. outfitters. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 35. 147-148. Walker Lake. 144. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. restaurants. 104. hiking. wildlife and bird watching. Winnemucca. 199. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 85. events. 155. touring. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 26-27. events. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 83. 167. camping. Table Mountain Wilderness. see transportation transportation: airports. 31. 73. horseback riding. 191 UFOs. 193. 153-154. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 168 zoos. Ruby Mountains. buses. 117. 61. Ruby Marsh. 164. 68. 174 walking. 196. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. camping. 75.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. Oxbow Nature Study Area. Pioneer territory. hiking outfitters. 143. 20. 80-81. 182-183. 151 Wilson Canyon. 135-137. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 77-78. restaurants. 71. touring. 157. 163. 193 Walker Lake. 80. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. touring. camping. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 155 . Pony Express territory. water sports. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 139. 67. rental cars. 44-48. 146. 155. 152-155. 174. 163-164. 119-120. restaurants. Earth Connections. outfitters. touring.
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