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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. Among the 50 states. as the top tourism destination in the US. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe.” and for good reason. bison. giant sloths. however. About 27 million of them. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. In fact. half-pound hot dogs.500 and 10. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. pausing on . mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. you can have the whole wild. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. According to author John Hart.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. Florida. For anyone who loves the outdoors. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. that’s good news. These mammoths. you’ll know better. which covers most of Nevada. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. horses. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. In fact.
Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. points.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. however. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. . who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. Exactly 50 years later. shells. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. In the 12th century. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. followed in Garces’ footsteps. By about 500 AD. The Northern Paiutes. fish hooks. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. Jedediah Smith. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. In 1776. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. hand tools. Many prime archeological sites. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. established trade routes. the first European entered Nevada.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. wetlands and springs. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. In the south. His party wintered in California. including southern Nevada. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area.
DC. In 1830. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. In 1859. swelling the population well into five figures. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. dominated by the church. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. but the Utah Territory government. In 1833. By 1857. In 1849. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. John C. the church established the State of Deseret. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. Eight years later the first wagon train. but abandoned it two years later. Nevada became a state on Halloween. then returned east along the route the next year. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. as it came to be called. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. and. covering most of Utah and Nevada. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). In 1843 and ’44. who would later become a war hero. the Mormons were the first white residents. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City.History n 3 In the north. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. Fremont. and headed over the Sierras. encountering Pyramid Lake. The Comstock Lode. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. Introduction . crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. was dispatched to map the area. with Brigham Young as governor. In 1845. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. camping at Las Vegas. continued to oversee Nevada. 1864. which helped open the gateway to the West.
however. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. but was ambushed. opened in 1950. Streets were laid out. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. began making money and the boom was on. bringing town sites. Meanwhile. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. In 1873. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. violence escalated. Winnemucca. upscale Vegas. was of a classy. chief of the Northern Paiutes. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. Then in 1966. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. In 1855. the mother of all lodes. particularly in southern Nevada. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. killed two-thirds of them.000 people in 1960. Ironically. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. In the teens and ’20s. In 1874. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. In 1860. the Big Bonanza. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. Warriors under Numaga. the Flamingo soon reopened. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. son of Winnemucca. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. was struck in Virginia City. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. Reno and the surrounding areas. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. Siegel’s vision. Carson City. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. signed a treaty with the federal government. then underground tests for 30 more. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. the first true hotel-casino. then picked up again in the early 1900s. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. later known as the Nevada Test Site. commerce and industry. Howard Hughes sud- .
But the explosion has not been without fallout. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. Mom and their 2. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. To many. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. Winnemucca. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. trappers. By 1970. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. places like Elko. and Americans have become moths to the flame. . Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. find enough water.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. a land dominated by a mobile population. today there are master-planned communities. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. How much is too much. however. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. DC.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. moving to the region in record numbers. miners. are reaping the windfall. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. Fallon and Mesquite. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. This time. The entire West will be watching what transpires.
Get the idea? After all. dry. In fact. In the north. then up another range. Here. Wheeler Peak. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. The notion of Nevada as a flat. down another range. Depending on who’s counting. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. The Colorado River . The roof of Nevada is 13. down a range. gurgle through the northern part of the state.000 feet in the space of a few miles. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. Named by explorer John C.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. the Carson and the Humboldt. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. with nine ranges topping 11. 13. and so on.000 feet to nearly 12. reservoirs and other watery bodies.000 feet. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range.063 feet.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. On the other side of the state. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. hills and uplands. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. Fremont in 1844. Nevada even has its own 10. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. then disappear into their respective “sinks.839foot Matterhorn. across a sagebrush-covered basin. towers over Great Basin National Park. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. lakes. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. Near Las Vegas.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. Yes.
Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. In the 1970s. For the greens. a great inland sea that 50. In 1989. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. are the only reliable. the largest alpine lake in North America. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. Lower and drier. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. it’s an uphill climb all the way. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730.000 years ago covered 8. in the remote north near Jarbidge.000-acre Great Basin National Park.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. natural sources of running water. most notably Lake Tahoe. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. establishing 77. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness.000 acres.500 square miles of western Nevada. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. only 65. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. the southeastern corner of Nevada.
such as rabbitbrush. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. Death Valley.000 feet above sea level. is generally found throughout the state between 5. Still. The squat Utah juniper. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. At elevations above 6. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. 14 national recreation areas. The recommendations have been under review for years. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks.000 and 8. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. horsebrush and shadescale. greasewood. Apart from aspens.000 feet. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. the soil supports . This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. with its tiny.
The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. willow and dogwood. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. The rare. The king of Great Basin vegetation. which is actually a type of yucca. up to 5. In the mountains. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. along with alder. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. lodgepole pine. Black bears. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. hallucinogenic sacred datura. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. the mountain lion. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. The Joshua tree. or jimson weed.000 years. blooms by night here. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. prickly pear.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. ponderosa pine. hedgehog and barrel. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. however. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. Above the desert floor. western white pine. bristlecone pine. which make up just 1% of the land. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. At the other extreme. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. Washoe pine. the official state grass.000 feet. creosote bush has an oily. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions.
brook. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. fox. Trout are the favorite of anglers. Snakes include several types of rattlers. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. prairie falcon. skunk. beaver. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. greater roadrunner. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. America’s two poisonous spiders. weasel.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. chuckwalla. rainbow. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. Gambel’s quail. The desert bighorn sheep. brown. pika. Blacktail jackrabbits. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. Ironically. coyote. golden and Dolly Varden . seen on Nevada’s license plates. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. In the air over the desert. with Lahontan cutthroat. while mule deer are abundant. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. help comes from hunters. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. also live in the Mojave. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. burrowing owl and canyon wren. redtailed hawk. kangaroo rats. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. badger. Meanwhile. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. the black widow and brown recluse. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback.
Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. on water. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. A section on Touring follows. Cowboy Country. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. covering its history. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. on land. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. Along with detailed information on where to go. This section also includes sources for expert information. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. culture and most attractive features. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. Reno-Tahoe Territory. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. broken down by specific locales. on snow and in the air. like almost every other Nevada visitor.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. such as visitors bureaus.
. . . Trails may be gone. . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . . . . . . . . Backpacking. . . . . Hiking. . forethought and patience. . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . Finally. rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . . . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . Up to $50 per day $$ . . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . . .12 n Introduction ing chart. . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . $100 to $175 $$$$ . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . . $50 to $100 $$$ . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . . . . .
it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. As this guide goes to press.Climbing. . Class 2 . occasionally using hands Class 4 .0 to . Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. ranging from .Adventures n 13 Finally. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be. the most popular among serious rock climbers. so help is usually a long way away. Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency.Boulder hopping. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . using the hands.Easy hiking. For Class 5 routes. the lower numbers (. Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.0 to . known as the Yosemite Decimal System. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 .14 (and sometimes beyond).
Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. n n n n n . check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. climbing partners. not hard-and-fast rules. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. Assistance can take hours or days. Give them descriptions of yourself. By their nature. then amended by subsequent climbers. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. dehydration and lightning. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. until all holds disappear at . taking into account personal experience. climbers enter the realm of myth. Storms are more common in the afternoon. Beyond that. use common sense before you get into trouble. clothing. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. As with all outdoor activities. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. Always take fresh water with you. Pack spare everything – food. If the plan changes.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. legend. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. Be aware of conditions. Begin hiking early in the day. In the arid country of Nevada.10. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Don’t travel alone. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations.
high-clearance job. but a powerful. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. jack. . Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. preferably one with a large gas tank. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. spare belts. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. tools. water and fluids. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. four-wheel-drive vehicle. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. extra gas. Arizona. Not one of those trendy. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads.
of course. drink it as needed. Mountain biking in Nevada. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. stay on it. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. contact DARES. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. minimize talking and eating. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. n If water is in limited supply. is more popular than ever. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. however. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. 85096. left out of popular literature. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. Do not ration water. PO Box 39340. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. AZ. The rest of Nevada. n If you find a traveled road. For more information on desert survival. in wilderness areas). . Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. stay put. leave a note telling searchers who you are. Phoenix. when you left and where you are headed. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. n If you have water.
there are all types of sky-high adventures. but take extra care. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. the gem of the Sierras. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. and gigantic Lake Mead. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. Ballooning. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. lakes and reservoirs. Many streams. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Fishing. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. Meanwhile. At these higher elevations. Soaring Where there is Vegas. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. there are tourists. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. And where there are tourists. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Skydiving. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. n In The Air Scenic Flights. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes.
If thunderstorms threaten. throwing rain. on the Colorado River. Leave the high altitudes as well. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. get out of lowlying areas. . Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. Flashfloods are the predictable result. In the Great Basin. temperatures above 110° are common. Laughlin. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. Summer and early fall can be blistering. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. although they can occur at any time of year. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. but despite the obvious danger. These storms are known to appear with little warning. For those who like to watch.
NV 89520. www. Bureau of Land Management. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. Nevada Commission on Tourism. % 702-687-4384. % 702234-7331.com. NV 89710. For information on specific locales. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. In the mountains. NV 89311. 84401. 324 25th Street.travelnevada. % 801-625-5182. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. rainy and occasionally snowy. Baker. Intermountain Region. see the listings that accompany each chapter. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. windy. Nevada Department of Transportation. Capitol Complex. Nevada Division of Wildlife. In southern Nevada. NV 89502. 850 Harvard Way.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. . Carson City. Great Basin National Park. Nevada Division of State Parks. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. Carson City. % 702-688-1500. In the north. basin winters can be chilly. NV 89712. UT. NV 89703. % 702-785-6500. % 800-NEVADA-8. 1263 South Stewart Street. Carson City. Ogden. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. 1300 South Curry Street. % 702-687-4219. Reno. Reno. US Forest Service. too. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. 1100 Valley Road.
000-year-old petroglyphs. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. Inside the city limits. closer. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure.000-foot peak. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. in plain view of the casinos. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. . as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. lounge shows – and recently. both prehistoric and otherwise. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. try hiking to an 11. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. cheap food.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. % 702-363-1921. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of .95 for adults. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. $3. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. % 702-895-3011. Admission is $4.95 for seniors and students. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. % 702-895-3893. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. but no less extravagant. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. % 702-798-5595. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. features work by students. Dedicated to Mr. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. is the Liberace Museum. Just off the glittering Strip. call % 702-895-3801. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. The tax-deductible admission is $6. 9 AM to 9 PM. Yes. Ham Concert Hall. $4. faculty and invited artists. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages.95 for adults. % 702-895-3381. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. 10 AM to 5 PM. giant. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. Seasonal streams. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). The museum is open Monday through Friday. 1 PM to 5 PM. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. Showmanship. actual cosmopolitan.50 for seniors. Sunday. 8 AM to 5 PM. Southeast of the Strip.
began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . wife of a German munitions tycoon. % 702-875-4191. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). The park is open daily. 8 AM to sunset. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. The park is open daily. one-way loop drive is early morning. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. the road to Mt. The restaurant and bar are open daily. With structures dating back to 1864. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. saloon. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. % 702-875-4141. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. The admission is $5 per vehicle. trail rides and a “real” Western town. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. Back on US 95. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. 8 AM to 5 PM. 7 AM to dusk. under Adventures on Foot. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. Today there is a restaurant.) The best time to take the 13-mile. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. 8 AM to 11 PM. 5 PM in the winter. % 702-486-5413. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. Charleston. The park is open daily. petting zoo. later during summer months. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. (See below. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. have been unearthed here. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. Admission is $4. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze.
% 702-872-7098.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey.918 feet. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. For ski rental and shuttle bus information.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. (See below. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. Charleston Loop. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. In the winter. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. (See below. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains.000 vertical feet of runs. Charleston Hotel. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation.) . under On Wheels. % 702385-2SKI. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. % 702-646-3401. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. elevation 11. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. and its 1. Charleston Lodge. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous.) Pitch a tent. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. see below under On Snow. under Adventures and Camping.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. At the northern edge of the reservation. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. Nevada’s state animal. 17-mile. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. The 1. under Camping. desolate valley. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. (See below. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. % 702-872-5408.) After the hike. the Mt. (See below. Bighorn sheep. % 702-872-5500. completing the Mt. under On Foot.
% 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. Airlines Air 21. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway.
% 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-785-8578 Alamo.
% 800-231-2222 K-T Services. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. 3150 Paradise Road. On the north side of Boulder City. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. Admission is $1. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. NV 89109. % 702-455-7955. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. $1 for seniors and children under 16. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. . % 702-735-1616. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. % 702-294-1888. NV 89109. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. stopping downtown.50 for adults.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. Gray Line Tours. % 800-332-5333. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. Did it work? Judge for yourself. Call % 800USA-RAIL. 1830 South Boulder Highway. 711 East Desert Inn Road. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. The museum is open daily. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. 444 Hotel Plaza.
stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. 500 South Boulder Highway. (See On Water below. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. All of 726 feet high. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. Children under 10 are free. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. or the Boulder City Visitors Center.) Be sure to heed the . % 702-293-8907. The cost is $5 for adults. Las Vegans. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. Its building caused the death of 94 workers.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. Phoenix and Los Angeles. boating and diving. 89005. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. for information on camping. $2. Hoover also created Lake Mead. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. 100 Nevada Highway. head back toward Boulder City. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. 660 thick at the base. Hoover Dam took 5. swimming.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. % 702-293-2034. % 702-565-8591. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. 89105. and 45 feet thick at the top. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. fishing.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge.
It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. From the visitor center. Back on Nevada 167. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). % 702-293-6180. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. Go straight to reach Henderson. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. which rests on the Virgin River. Beyond here. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. Just beyond the bay. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. a public swimming and boating area. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. % 702-397-2088.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. The displays in the visitor center. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. . Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. explain the geology and forces of erosion. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. nearly five miles off the highway. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. thank you. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina.
It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. Named for a brand of matches. Saturday. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. The museum is open Monday through Friday. East of Searchlight 14 miles. 9 AM to 5 PM. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. % 520-754-4606. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. 355 Highway 95.000 visitors a month. % 800-46-4584 . the town was a gold. % 702-297-1464. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. Arizona. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. 9 AM to 1 PM. bar and bait shop. % 520-754-3628. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. % 520-754-3272. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. Admission is a $1 donation. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. constructed his Riverside Casino. see below. 125°. % 520-754-3399. Don Laughlin started here with a motel.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. a campground and marina.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. % 702-297-1682. (For details on all three. under Adventures. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. Nevada’s record-high temperature.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. in Bullhead City. relives those days. with motel. on Lake Mojave. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. South of here is camping. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. campground and fishing and swimming spots.
% 702-798-6405. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. May is the busiest month. % 800-227-5254. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-736-6247 United Express. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. % 310-448-1822. % 800-227-5245. 1555 South Casino Drive. % 702-876-3380. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. In Laughlin. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. % 800-331-1212 Budget. host- . April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. Special Events February In February. as many as 6.
also takes place in October. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. to the waters of Lake Mead. % 702-8953900. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. % 702-457-2797. October Art in the Park. blows in. take place in Boulder City. % 702434-0848. % 702-4541212. takes place in Vegas. % 702-293-4857. % 702-386-3926. % 702-452-8066. . Navaho and Mojave peoples. % 702-457-5775. % 702-293-1611. to downtown. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. to the campus of UNLV. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. a confluence of Southern Paiute. % 702-870-1221. a three-day balloon rally. % 702-2939256. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-631-7000. August In August. % 702-898-6565. % 800-227-5245.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. to town. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. the Las Vegas Classic. Another balloon festival. the International Black Heritage Festival. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. floats into Laughlin. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. Later in the month. % 702-293-2034. % 800-637-1006. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. % 702687-5777. and the National Finals Rodeo. the Parade of Lights.
Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. especially in winter months. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. Red Rock attracts free climbers. The area gets only four inches of rain a year. in fact. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.11d) offers more advanced routes. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber.11b). but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown.9) has 1. Graveyard Waltz (5.9). White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. At the end of a 90-minute approach.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas.11+).7) crag and mixed climbing walls. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. is to mountain bikers. At nearby Willow Springs. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area.11). Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. Chicken Eruptus (5. Other routes in- . Stratocaster (5. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. is only 35 minutes from the Strip.8). Utah.12a). Sheep Trail (5. To the west. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. Crimson Chrysalis (5. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes.11).Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing.11). On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. so chalk often stays put for months. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. so take extra precautions when adventuring here.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. The Choad Warrior (5. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year.
17 miles round-trip. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. elevation 11. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow.12). Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. consult the Bible of local climbers. ending at a small dam and the spring.6). toward a ridge at 11. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. an easy six-mile round-trip. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. Rainbow Buttress (5. all that remains of his 1920s homestead.10 or 5. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5.000 feet. At the aforementioned fork. About seven miles from the visitor center. . See Outfitters. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. page 41.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. gaining 3. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash.000 feet in four miles. & For more information. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. The trail switchbacks time and again. to savor the 300-mile views. Chockstone Press.8) and Eagle Dance (5. Following the fork. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. The South Loop Trail.918 feet. The 3. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. published by the American Alpine Club.000 feet. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine.
Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. Never take these altitudes lightly. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. For trail information and weather and safety updates. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. covering two miles and gaining 1. At lower elevations. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards.000 feet into the northeastern sky. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon.000 feet to a saddle.000 feet above the desert. contact the US Forest Service. thunderstorms and snow. . the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. Beginning on a dirt road. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven.4 miles. Mountain T Ranch. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. the trail climbs 1. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. gaining 1. To the northwest. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls.
Stay below the northern peaks. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. outlines the easiest route. Suite 4. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. and park at the end of the road. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. % 888-86ROCKY. Sports & Adventure Tours. Falcon Press Publishing. Las Vegas. Rocky Trails. go 6.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. PO Box 371324. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. % 702-596-2953. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. HCR 33. .40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. which is marked by a post. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. Bruce Grubbs. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. 3065 East Patrick Avenue.2 miles. % 702-434-3388. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. Just south of this outcrop. 89124. % 702-254-5604. % 702-223-2176. PO Box 1. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. turn right. climb a gully to reach a ridge. then go northwest to another plateau. heading for the northernmost outcropping. % 702-364-8687. 89137. Las Vegas. ascending northwest. 89180. Las Vegas 89117. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. Climb northward up the slope. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. PO Box 80875.000-foot elevation gain to the peak.
can arrange a covered wagon trip. 89132. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-458-8870. % 702-383-0838. % 702-798-6565. At mile post 17. % 702362-7177. Wagons West. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. % 702-2567433. 4065 East Patrick Lane. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. Silver State Old West Tours.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. Desert Rock Sports. % 702-254-1143. Armed . PO Box 19210. however. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Hahn’s World of Surplus. Desert Outfitting. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . Peak Sports. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains.6 mile to a dirt road. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702387-2457. Cowboy Trail Rides. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. 617 Hoover Avenue. % 702-252-7114. % 702-875-1978. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. % 702-649-6819. Las Vegas.
park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. . Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. A double track soon appears on the right. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. heading uphill. turn left to another intersection and turn right. 4765 Vegas Drive. Head downhill. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. After beginning another climb. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. flying downhill and then up to another road. contact the Bureau of Land Management. NV 89126. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. scanning for a cairn on the left. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. Turn right. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. go to the next intersection. turn right. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. For a tamer road trip. Go left here. zoom downhill to the fork. At the road. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. make a quick right and head downhill. % 702-647-5000. before heading out. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. a six-mile loop. and pump uphill. For a more challenging excursion. Take this until you reach a double track. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. Turn right.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. PO Box 26589. Las Vegas.
Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. % 702-642-2453. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-8978287. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. % 702-646-3401. Turn left to return to US 15. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. 16 Cottonwood Drive. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. . the byway forks. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. Escape the City Streets. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. % 702-252-8077. Downhill Bicycle Tours. Las Vegas Bikes USA. At about the 10-mile mark. R&R Cycling. % 702-876-8687. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. 7934 Cadenza Lane. % 702-596-2953. % 702-451-9586. Ski Chalet. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs.
maps and more information on backcountry byways. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. an avid angler for more than 50 years. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. Rebel Adventure Tours. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. % 888-REELRIO. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. of all places. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. 2810 South Highland Drive. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. is on the premises. % 702-796-9355. % 702-380-6969. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. It begins. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. Suite B. 4765 West Vegas Drive. crystal-clear hotel pool. 8 AM to 11 AM. For details. 89101. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. 713 East Ogden Street. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. . % 702-646-8800. Old West Territory Tours.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. 3700 Flamingo Road. Las Vegas. % 702-454-5555.
powerboats and cruisers. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). Off Nevada 167. . about three miles across at its widest point. largemouth bass and trout. jet skiing. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. Forever Resorts. rents houseboats. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St.to three-days notice is required. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence.) Swimming. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. flows into Lake Mead. For details. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. (See below. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. and two. % 800-2555561. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. Thomas. % 800-34-SCUBA. meals and overnight lodging for $449. The expert staff is available seven days a week.500-acre ranch in Utah. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. Boulder Beach.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). instruction and gear. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. offering professional advice. water skiing. under Boating Outfitters. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay.
PO Box 61235. % 702-565-8958. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Lake Mojave Farther south. HCR 30. PO Box 62465. 89124. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. Near Laughlin. Las Vegas. particularly near cliffs. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. PO Box 100. 322 Lake Shore Road. Lake Mead Cruises. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. Calville Bay Resort. % 702-754-3245. The cost is about $65 per person. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. % 702-252-7114. 89006. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. Las Vegas. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. % 702-2931190. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. 89006. . Return transportation is provided by bus. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. 89102.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. % 800-696-RAFT. offers trips from January through November. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. is the local fishing and boating hub. % 702-293-6180.
4290 Boulder Highway. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. % 702-433-3263. Laughlin. 89028. Overton Beach Marina. 1450 Newberry Drive. PO Box 29279. 520-758-6242. % 702-437-9283. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. % 702-5659111. Clearwater Flyfishing. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. . Bullhead City. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. % 702565-0696. % 702-564-5660. 89029. % 702297-1464. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. Sunset Bait & Tackle. Laughlin River Tours. PO Box 29279. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. Fiesta Queen Cruises. Tom’s Water Skiing. AZ. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. 89040. % 800-228-9825. Overton. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. % 702-459-2080. % 702-452-8299. 89040. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. % 702-388-1022. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. Overton. % 702-3944000.
Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. Saturday until midnight. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. % 702-564-1558. 68 Mallory Road. however. 1500 Palomino Drive. The company claims more than 500. % 702-5657583. Even more memorable. % 702-871-1399. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. complete with guided ground tours and meals. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. % 702-451-4004. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. % 702-385-4321. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. Utah. % 702-565-8396. 161 East Rancho Drive. ext. Karen Jones. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. citing growing noise problems. noon to 9 PM. Henderson Bill Spellman. 810 Circus Circus Drive. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. . n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation.J. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. Arizona and Zion. Jim Goff. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. 3800.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. With commercial balloon tours.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. % 702-434-0848. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. A jump is $59. HB Fishing Guide Service. Hackett Bungy.
% 702-877-1010. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. Web site www. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. % 702-221-9199. 806 Buchanan Street.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. % 702-385-2SKI. 3275 Rosanna Street. Set at a base elevation of 8. #115-200. % 800-359-8727. PO Box 19629. D&R Balloons. Heli USA. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. Jean. Scenic Airlines. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. % 800-535-4448. % 800-255-7474. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. Jean Airport. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. % 800-634-6851.com. 89109. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . % 800-8-SKYDIV. % 702-293-1860. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. Las Vegas. % 800-634-6377. Air Vegas Airlines. % 702-736-0013. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. Boulder City. Eagle Canyon Airlines. King Airelines. NV 89117. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. Las Vegas. 241 East Reno Avenue. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. 200 Convention Center Drive. NV 89019. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. % 800-446-4584. Sundance Helicopters. 2705 Airport Drive. % 800-216-8330. Las Vegas Airlines. 89005. Skydive Las Vegas.ultimateballoonadven. 806 Buchanan Street.
on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. But somehow. if possible. when rates are lower and lines are shorter.000-room MGM Grand. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. 2395 North Rancho Road. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. % 702-385-5200. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. 18 East Fremont Street. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. over 100. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. % 800-272-7426. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities.000 techies to Sin City. After all. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. % 702-385-1664. % 702-646-0008. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. it seems. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. are booked solid on weekends. even behemoths like the 5. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. 600 East Fremont Street. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets.000 visitors. Above all. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. HO TE L Many hotels. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. All they do is take up space. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. luring 200. $-$$. The place was once part-owned by in- . For more serious snow. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. $-$$$.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world.
One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. way out there. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. $$-$$$$. % 702-731-7110. % 702-385-4011. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. $$$-$$$$. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. Even by Vegas standards. across from the Fashion Show Mall. and New York. The Golden Nugget. $$$$$. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. $-$$. Down the street. % 702-386-2110. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Across the street is the green giant.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. % 702-3821600.037 rooms. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. Caesars Palace. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-791-7171. who built the first casino resort. 128 East Fremont Street. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . however. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. $$-$$$$. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. New York. 1 Main Street. The faux volcano. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. $$-$$$. % 702-732-5111. New York is out there. 3000 Paradise Road. % 702-894-7111. $-$$. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. South of here. is a crowd-pleaser. the Flamingo. dominate the Strip. The movie Rainman was shot here. Next door is the Island’s big sister. Monte Carlo. If staring at wealth is your thing. % 702-740-NYNY. The Four Queens. New York. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. % 702-385-7111. % 702-740-NYNY. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 202 East Fremont Street. The Mirage. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). the MGM Grand. $$-$$$$. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 129 East Fremont Street. has 1. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. the young upstarts. $$-$$$$.
On the outskirts of Vegas. On the less expensive end of the spectrum.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe.000 visitors a month and climbing. but don’t count on that for long. % 702-872-5500.500 rooms. has 2. which eliminates Reno. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. while Bellagio will boast 3.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. too. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. $$-$$$$. Bonnie Springs Motel. % 702-872-5408. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. contrary to popular belief. three Motel 6s. the Mt. $-$$. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. % 800-634-3988. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. In the Spring Mountains. Charleston Hotel. $$-$$$$. $-$$$. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. positively sedate with its 5. % 702-262-4555. % 702-735-1616. contact the Chamber of Commerce. set at 7. . Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. At this book goes to press. TIP Laughlin For the most part.000. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. Charleston Resort.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. % 702-875-4400.
On the Strip. the Flamingo Hilton. offers 2. 2000 South Casino Drive. % 702-733-3111. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. 2121 South Casino Drive. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. 2100 South Casino Drive. 2900 South Casino Drive. % 702735-8686. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. Emeril’s. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. % 702-298-2453. An excellent buffet. and very expensive. $$$$. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. % 702-298-4200. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. classy Hugo’s Cellar. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-252-7777. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. and Harrah’s.500 rooms. At the Flamingo Hilton.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. % 702-385-4011. % 702-3807711. % 702-385-5016. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. while the Golden Nugget. The Edgewater. Downtown at the Four Queens. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. % 702-891-7374. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. % 702-298-2214. $-$$. sports a railroad theme. The Ramada Express. Off the main drags. % 702-891-7337. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. Andiamo. both at the MGM Grand. Café Michelle. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. Hamada. % 702-298-4600. $-$$$. 3700 West Flamingo Road. % 702-298-7111. however. After a few meals at most of these troughs. 1650 Casino Drive. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. % 702-298-2535. and Gatsby’s. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. contact the Chamber of Commerce. $-$$$. Nearby. in the Las Vegas Hilton. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . Eurasian mélange. 2300 South Casino Drive. serves upscale Italian fare. while the Colorado Belle. % 702-298-5111. opened in 1990. % 702-298-4000. $-$$$. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 202 Fremont Street. % 702-732-5111. To really dine UPtown. Andre’s. 401 South 6th Street. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. 1900 South Casino Drive. $-$$.000 rooms. 1350 East Flamingo Road. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. has 1. $-$$.
while moderately pricey. serves hip. % 702-384-4470. Near the end of Nevada 157. The elevation here ranges between 7. For a Latin taste. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. Kyle Canyon. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. % 702-2984600. call % 702-873-8800. although the Lodge. Phillip’s Supper House. % 702-693-5000. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. For information. 2504 East Fremont. % 702-383-0007. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.400 feet. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. in the shadow of Mt. Chicken is the house specialty. 4455 Paradise Road. as the name implies. 3900 Paradise Road. For satisfying American favorites. serves fine steaks and seafood. % 702-363-1921. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. which. is the most popular Chinese place in town. Suite Z. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel.000 and 8. . % 702733-8899. Chin’s. 308 West Sahara Avenue. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. Charleston. % 702-794-0700. Fong’s. having opened in 1932. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. is the oldest restaurant in the city. % 702-298-2242. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. seven days a week. % 702-382-1644. All five campgrounds have piped water. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. The Green Shack. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. so be prepared for extreme weather. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. % 702-873-5222. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel.
there’s Boulder Beach. north of town on Lake Mojave. Moving north from Boulder City. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. Las Vegas Territory . For information. % 520-7544606. On the Virgin River to the north. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. On the north shore. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. Calville Bay has 80 sites. call % 702-646-3401. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. Across the river from the Strip. For information on all five locations. In Valley of Fire State Park. % 520-754-3272.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. To the east of Vegas. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. % 702-397-2088.
Rose resorts. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. just east of the California-Nevada border. Of course. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers.000 feet.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. In the winter. With a surface elevation of more than 7. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. At the heart of this region. Las Vegas. Reno. The Truckee River. the largest alpine lake in North America. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. the city of Reno is the . offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. and for good reason. Heavenly and Mt.
an ancient. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. Farther east of Carson City. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Washoe Lake State Park. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. 8. Farther south. which meanders – sometimes wet. About 30 miles north of Reno. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. Fort Churchill. Just south of Carson City. Today this mirage-come-true.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. where everyone expects Ben. . the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. North of Pyramid Lake. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. are walks back in time. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. on the shores of Washoe Lake. meanwhile. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. Pyramid Lake. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. The Carson River. The place dates back to 1851. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City.
A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. and in 1859 C. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. % 800-FOR-RENO. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. In 1863. No. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. H. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . Like Vegas. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. the city continues to grow rapidly. or at least slow. North Virginia Street.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno.H. From Carson City. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. there isn’t a glass pyramid. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. which hosts special events in warmer months. From Reno. From here. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno.W. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. for a schedule. In 1852. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe.
. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. From a historical point of view. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. this is it.
On the suburban south side of Reno. May Museum and Arboretum. % 702784-4812. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. About 10 minutes north of the university. % 702-333-9300. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. 1650 North Virginia Street. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada.) The Wilbur D. has been at that location since 1946. the campus of the University of Nevada. houses one of the world’s best collections. a nifty historical theme park. April through October. The Nevada Historical Society. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. but call first for hours. 1265 Deerlodge Road. is also located here. Animal Ark Nature Center. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. % 702-7855961. On the north side of the city. % 702-784-4528. And the Keck Minerals Museum. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. On the northern outskirts of the city. (See below under On Foot. The staff welcomes visitors daily. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. turn right. is a well-known. houses a theater and telescope. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. 1502 North Washington Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-969-3111. Great Basin Adventure. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. 300 North Center Street. 10 South Lake Street. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. boasts three treasures. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. % 702-688-1190. including black bears and kit foxes. To get there. the National Automobile Museum. % 702-334-2600. Fleischmann Planetarium. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. % 702-788-3773. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. When arms get tired.
% 800-221-1212. No Stress Express. United Airlines. % 800-654-3131. Delta Air Lines. % 800-221-2000. Greyhound Lines. % 702-328-6400. % 800-218-8777. K-T Services. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. Lloyd’s International. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-359-2472. % 800-231-2222. Airlines Air 21. % 800-225-2525. Reno Air. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Avis. Southwest Airlines. % 800-331-1212. Dollar. America West Airlines. % 800-453-9417. % 800-426-7000. Hertz. % 800-527-0700. Alaska Airlines. Northwest Airlines. Enterprise. % 800-CAR-RENT. % 800-235-9292. % 800-367-2277. % 800-241-6522. % 800-800-4000. % 800-325-8007. Delta Connection-Sky West. TriStar Airlines. % 800-435-9792. National.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-736-6247. Budget. If you don’t have a car. % 800-654-7037. TWA. % 702-882-3375. Canadian Airlines. . Thrifty. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas.
provides an interesting mix of adventures. in his journal Roughing It. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. 4590 South Virginia Street. respectively. a marvelous intermingling of water. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. but the future of the Basin itself. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. Fortunately. In 1861. restore forest and watersheds. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. rock. 98 Colony Road. % 800-FOR-RENO. control erosion and acquire open land. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. At press time. 405 Marsh Avenue. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. NV 89505.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. All told. NV 89502. trees and sky. % 702-686-3030. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. Reno. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. the waters are now finding friends in high places. Reno. local. In reality. year-round outdoor playgrounds. % 702-329-2936. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. is a study in contrast. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
stands out amid the pines.) Up the twisting NV 431. The beaches are open daily. Admission is $8. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. Viewed from the highway. restrooms and picnic areas. After the buzz of the ranch. is a welcome respite. $5. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. Reno-Tahoe Territory . along the eastern shoreline. under On Foot. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. The north end of the beach. % 702-831-0494.50 for kids. Three miles south of Incline Village.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. with its full slate of running water. open May through November. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. But in between them. (See below. % 702-849-2511. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead.776 feet. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. is well-known to snorkelers. called Diver’s Cove. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. The park. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. % 702-831-0691.50 for adults. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. at 10.
% 916-583-9048. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . and just beyond that is Cave Rock.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. South Lake Tahoe. $6 per child. condos. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. Booming in the winter (see below. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. a nature trail circles the lake.) For the unmechanized. canoeing. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. % 800-AT-TAHOE. May through November. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. (See below.50 per adult. Stateline. CA. 96151. offices and shops. PO Box 7139. horseback riding. % 702-588-4591. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. (See below. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. The price for such sloth is $10.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. % 702588-3508. For information. under Adventures and Accommodations. then into the broad Washoe Valley. restaurants. PO Box 16299. Every summer. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. % 702588-3000. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. also offers excursions. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. NV 89449. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. At Tahoe Village. This is the home port of the Dixie II. under On Snow. under On Snow).250 feet in five minutes. Sailing. The day-use fee is $5.
off NV 429. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. About 30 miles south of Reno. pages 83.” On Halloween in 1864. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. the world’s largest silver strike. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. 1851. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. % 702-849-0201. windsurfing. About 15 miles south of Reno. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. a hunt that lasted 20 years. During the wet season. Washoe Lake covers about 3. When the Comstock Lode. was hit a year later in Virginia City. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. % 702-687-4319. The park’s centerpiece. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. boating. US 395 slides southwest. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. the mansion and all its furnishings. under Adventures. Washoe Lake. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. (See below. and on weekends between May and October. Bowers Mansion. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. In November. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. one mile south of Washoe City. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. 87 and 98). while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother.000 acres. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. eventually lost their silver fortune. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. camping and hiking (see below. site of Washoe Lake State Park. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. the boom rolled in at full throttle. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. Bowers Mansion County Park. The original owners.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. Camping.
% 702-687-5160. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. Headquartered in nearby Minden. excepting state holidays. in fact. % 702-687-4810. The Capitol Building & Museum. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism.” In fact. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Open Monday through Friday. 101 North Carson Street. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. Unlike most Western capitals. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. . the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. Admission is $3. The library contains the original state constitution. Call for schedules and pick-up points. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. the Nevada State Library & Archives.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. the Capitol is open daily. Located in the Carson City Mint building. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. % 702-884-3450. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. It’s so open. yearround. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. which was opened in 1886. Just east of the Capitol. 600 North Carson Street. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. % 702687-5030. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. 100 Stewart Street. exhibits of native fauna. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893.
Two blocks north. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The St. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. The Orion Clemens House. the Carson City Brewing Company. 1207 North Carson Street. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). 448 West King Street. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-884-2226. Admission is $2. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. 502 North Division Street. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. The office is closed Sundays. Bliss Mansion. was named for its original occupant. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. On the suburban south side of Carson City. train rides are extra. books and permits for the surrounding area. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. The staff can provide trail maps. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery.50. Charles-Muller Hotel. 1536 South Carson Street. Roughing It. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. % 702-826-2766. % 702-687-6953. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. The building now houses a live theater. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. % 702-887-2174. % 702-883-1976. Samuel. Admission is $2. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. The Stewart Indian Museum. The Roberts House Museum. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. 813 North Carson Street. $2 for kids. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. Admission is $4 for adults. 2180 South Carson Street. 302 South Carson Street. That classic journal. 5366 Snyder Avenue. % 702-882-1808. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The museum is filled with period furniture. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. and Bender House (1874). became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers.
May through October. the first permanent white settlement in the state. As of presstime. 2001 Foothill Road. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. lies Genoa. now long gone. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. Genoa Bar. 1900 South Carson Street. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. Up the street.000 students had walked its halls. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. to Genoa. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. May through October. California. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. weight room and tennis courts year-round. The roots go back to 1851. Across the street. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. saunas. Carson City. 3. Before the school closed in 1980. The museum is open daily. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. % 702-782-4325. at the foot of the Carson Range. % 702-782-8155. Guests can enjoy the water. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. . Walley’s. NV 89701. opened in 1863. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. % 702-687-7410. The place saw Nevada’s first house. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. first opened to tourists in 1862. Daily admission is $12. where he is buried.
about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. % 702-782-3133. Housed in the 1915 high school building. Finally. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. where it intersects with NV 341. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. including Western art and portraiture. % 702-782-2555. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. 1477 Highway 395. About three miles south of Gardnerville.200acre beauty set at 5. Leaving Carson City. Minden was founded in 1904. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. circus items. the highway hits Topaz Lake. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. The otherwise barren hills. % 702-266-3343. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. boxing memorabilia. a 1. 1440 Highway 395. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. Just down US 395. and their spirit built the Silver State.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. of all places. which climbs up a narrow. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. Their riches. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. their sweat. about eight miles south of Carson City. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. Beyond NV 341. Virginia City. resting precariously . Gardnerville in 1879. In Gardnerville. valleys.
Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. more than 15.000 lived in Virginia City. The Comstock Lode had been struck. May through October. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. is a looming. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. % 702847-0975. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. The Marshall Mint Museum. Up C Street. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. % 702-847-0757. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. The building is open daily. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. At the south end of town. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. Today. leave regularly. Admission prices range from donations to $3.000 a ton in silver. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. % 702-847-0777.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. underground mine tours. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. Here.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. and within four years. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. . Admission is $3. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. Not recommended for claustrophobes.
most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. is open daily.50. % 702-847-9394. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. The memory of Samuel Clemens. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. The headstones and gravesites. % 702-8470830. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. Admission is $2. After she was murdered in 1867. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. lives on in two buildings. 3.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. % 702-8470333. including an old jukebox and player pianos. Mark Twain’s Memories. The Way It Was Museum. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-847-0766. % 702-847-0454. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. is definitely not for the puritan. % 702847-0275. a room in the basement of a saloon.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. The Mark Twain Museum. has a more eclectic collection. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. Finally. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. windswept plateau. for a ride into yesterday. Open daily. complete with ornate chandeliers. % 702-847-0525. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. June through October. Its extravagant interior. Admission is $2. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements.
After another 20 miles. Past the intersection with NV 431. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. appears in Palomino Valley. Today. % 702-673-1150. The Byway’s terminus. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. including Odeon Hall. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. then exit at NV 445. % 702-847-0311. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. After about eight miles. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. or mustangs.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. little more than a few walls remain. There is also a developed campground. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. wild horses. number about 30. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. % 702-577-2345.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. Several historic buildings survive in downtown.
Camping. Spreading north and east. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. nine-mile-wide watering hole. the road passes Wino. site of the ranger station. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. Fremont. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. % 702-547-0187. according to artifacts found in local caves. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. From Nixon. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. boat ramp. campground. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. Nearby. continues to surround the lake. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. Today. Just north of the marina. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. They will provide directions and hours of operation. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. or dry lake bed.182 feet) to the west. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. this is the place to do it – unless. of course. If losing yourself is your goal. % 702-476-1156. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. the world’s largest playa. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. A reservation was formalized in 1874. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. store and museum. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. thus christening the 27-mile-long. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. Another 25 miles north via paved. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510.000 BC. since at least 9. boating and fishing are extra. Tribe members administer recreation activities.
one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. even with one. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. about one mile south of NV 140. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. tow chain. Help can be a long way away. A shovel. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. % 503-947-3315. caution and common sense are key to traveling. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. . best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. songbirds. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. Besides antelope. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. Again. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. birds of prey.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. preparedness is imperative. TAKE CARE In this region. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. and carry enough water. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. on 575. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. spare tire.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity.
% 702-329-7469. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. In Virginia City. % 702-829-1955. In Carson City. a rolling custom car show. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. Night Curves. heats up. The Way It Was Rodeo. bills itself as the “Wildest. % 702-588-6211. % 702-882-1808. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-353-2291. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. % 702-588-9658. Reno also . % 702-847-7500. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. is a rip-snortin’ affair. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. and Carson City is the site of American Heat.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. Richest Rodeo in the West. % 702-782-2211. % 702-265-5281. Carson Valley Days. % 702-329-3877. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. % 702-882-1283. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. % 800-FOR-RENO. % 702-883-1352.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. is held in Sparks. % 702-847-0311. In Gardnerville. % 702-882-1802. water. % 702-782-2444. % 702-687-7410. with food. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. In Reno. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples.
is held in Reno. the Nevada State Fair. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-782-9711. Street Vibrations. % 702-832-1606. % 702-826-1181. the Native American Snow Dance. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-688-5767. attracts American Indians from many Western states. % 702-329-7469. % 702-882-1565. % 702-827-7603. and the Nevada Day Parade. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. % 702-972-6663. deconstructionist Woodstock. On the Black Rock Desert. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. % 702-847-0311. % 702-786-5700. % 702-885-6939. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. % 800-535-3045. come to Virginia City along with a parade. a sort of post-modern. % 702-329-1476. takes place in Carson City. gather in Minden. In Incline Village. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. . and the National Championship Air Races.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. In the skies. The Great Italian Festival. September The famous International Camel Races. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. the notorious Burning Man Festival. November The Celtic New Year Celebration.
Overhangs present experts with 5. After crossing Galena Creek. however.000 feet. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. so dress appropriately. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. including Asylum (5. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10.11a). including Jello Wars (5. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada.11a and 5. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. then climbs to a saddle. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. all 5.11d) and Slayer (5.14a). the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. Farther south. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy.12a opportunities. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. are more chilling than the mountain air. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. There are 10 routes. At the five-mile mark. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. Falcon Press Publishing. 1994. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. then climbs in earnest toward the peak.11c and heavier. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. . The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. There are more than 20 routes. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. whips around a peak.
Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. elevation 8. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. % 702-6881893. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. climbing 3. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. Since the slide. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. The trail ends at a highway. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. so call first. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. the Oxbow Nature Study Area.260 feet. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. offers a beautiful willow. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. . which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. The charge for adults is $12. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. for children $5. Hours are seasonal.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. NV 431. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. After another mile. as are group tours. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. including great blue herons and birds of prey. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle.300 feet in just six miles. This hike is certainly strenuous. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. % 702-847-WALK.
contact the DTA at PO Box 34. From here. Madras. Stevens Camp. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. contact the BLM. OR 97441. % 916-279-6101. is a good overnight point. For more information. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. . For travel information. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. For road conditions and closures. Yellow Hills East. For more information. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. As this is being written. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. write them at PO Box 20991. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. Oakland. Mahogany Mountain. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. To reach the trailhead. CA 94620. The trail. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. as are 7. great horned owls and other birds of prey.
take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. Outdoor Adventures. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. terminus of the fairly flat. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. Patagonia Outlet. #111. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. NV 89511. Silver State Outfitters. NV 89450. NV 89436. gaining 2. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. 20 Daylily Court. backpackers and photographers. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Incline Village. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. PO Box 6145. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. % 702-322-9559. jogs through alpine meadows. 3335 Vista Boulevard. % 702-832-5231. Denio Junction. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. 8550 White Fir Street. % 702-623-1500. % 702-746-6878. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Bighorn Outfitting. % 702-626-6916. A steep. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. Nevada Guide Service. NV 89502. Reno. % 702-333-6795. to the soaring summit at 9. but they might also offer their services to hikers. . beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. Reno. On the east side of the reservoir. 1135 Terminal Way. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. Sparks. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir.200 lung-burning feet.397 feet. 490 Kietzke Lane. Look for the Knott Creek sign. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. % 702-851-1924. The lakes.
Old Washoe Ranch Stables. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. After about three miles. Sierra Spirit Ranch. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. % 702-831-5465. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. % 702-885-7773. Zephyr Cove Stables. the trail makes a high-altitude. % 702-3584824. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. % 702-849-0570. call first for availability and directions. In all four cases. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. Sierra Mountaineer. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. Sporting Rage. 1941 North Carson Street. and offers picnic rides. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. % 702588-5664.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. Vogl Trek USA. % 702-8252855. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. In the highlands near Mount Rose.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. % 702782-7011. which parallels North Canyon Creek. also rents horses. % 702-849-9651. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. 155 East Moana Lane. 1201 Highway 395. Near Washoe Lake State Park. 4375 South Carson Street. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. % 702884-3453. % 702-8827779. Strictly Scuba & More. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. % 702-849-1020. 4339 South Carson Street. offers ranch day trips. Twin City Surplus. contact Tin Cup Adventures. % 702-323-5630. 1675 East 4th Street.
or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. For detailed maps. % 916-279-6101. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. The half-paved. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. From here. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. north of Pyramid Lake. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. to Vya. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. % 702-831-0494. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. depending on point of view. don’t screw it up. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). 84 miles back to Gerlach. Put simply.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. or ends. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. Continuing northwest on NV 447. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. . the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. To complete the loop. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office.
89502. call % 702-688-1500. % 702-3226001. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. % 702-8871333. 235 East Plumb Lane. Reno Schwinn. 1200 South Wells Avenue. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. Bicycle Warehouse. 89532. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. Bike Brothers. 89509. 500 North Carson Street. 1993. % 702883-3210. 1987 North Carson Street. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. % 702827-3277. Great Basin Bicycles. south of Carson City. 89701. % 702786-5111. Excell Skates. % 702-825-8258. For more information. % 702826-0800. . along with Canada geese in fall. & According to Jeanne L. 89502. 89701. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. Falcon Press Publishing. 3450 Lakeside Drive. 1999 South Virginia Street. 89502. % 702-747-1413. 89502.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 4135 South Virginia Street. winter and spring. also known as NV 206. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage.
cutthroat and rainbows. kingfishers. 89701. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. canoes. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. . which can take up to seven hours.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. % 702-8825007. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Spooner Lake. offers 1. The trip. via NV 88 and CA 89. turkey vultures. 1685 Highway 395 South. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. 89423. California. red-tailed hawks. On the Nevada side. rents powerboats. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 702782-0867. six miles south of Gardnerville. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. During spring and early summer. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. Contact the US Forest Service. Nevada. coyotes. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. % 702-588-3369. 89450. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. Entrance fee is $3 per car. 625 Fairview Drive. personal water craft and kayaks. PO Box 3007.
is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. and charges a launching fee. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. % 702-688-1500. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. For more adventurous angling. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. Washoe Lake State Park. There are two boat ramps. Idlewilde Park. For directions. both on the eastern shore. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. For the stalwart anglers. The smaller. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. although . The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. but in wet years. A better option might be Ophir Creek. are regularly stocked with rainbows. thanks to Sierra runoff. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. two to three miles up a steep trail. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. only a mile west of downtown. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. planting and licensing information. % 702-6874319. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. with campground and restrooms. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. However. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. catfish and trout. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. water levels. For moving-water anglers. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal.
Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. see below. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. under Outfitters. For more information. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. boasts a handful of isolated spots. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. More than 100 years later. however. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. There are two boat ramps on the lake. . Nevada Angler’s Guide. while rainbow. % 702-688-1500. used to separate gold and silver from ore. the setting here is primative. crappie and perch. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. The reservoir is located on private land. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Boats with outboards are permitted. Rainbow. Camping is primitive. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. Come prepared. In his book. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. a health advisory is still in effect.
% 916-546-4444. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. Stateline. rentals and a shuttle bus.440 vertical feet of runs. % 702-322-9559. % 916573-0753. The Gilly. Mount Rose also offers lessons. NV 89431. intermediate and advanced. equally divided among novice. Snowboarders are welcome. 155 East Moana Lane. With a base elevation of 8. Reno. Sparks. Don’s Fishing Charters. Reno Fly Shop. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. % 702-588-4916. % 702-358-6113. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. PO Box 10225. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. NV 89448. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. PO Box 815. CA. 89502. Reno. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers.260 feet. NV 89448. PO Box 6506. 294 East Moana Lane. 96145. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. % 916-541-5448.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. % 702-825-2855. Zephyr Cove. NV 89502. 490 Kietzke Lane. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. . PO Box 1909. Zephyr Cove. Tahoe Topliners. % 702-827-0600.. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. NV 89502. NV 89449. Tahoe City.
Heavenly has 18 chairs. Lessons. Snowboarders are welcome. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. 1210 Ski Way.000 to 9. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. . For cross-country fans. 89451. Diamond Peak. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. six surface lifts. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort.000 feet above sea level. skate skis. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). lesson. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. NV. and/or snowshoes. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. Incline Village. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. and rental. day tours and amateur races. with the longest vertical drop (3.840 feet. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. the greatest acreage (4. $8 after 3 PM). This is a monster of a mountain. lessons. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. % 702-831-8361. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. not to mention great views of the lake. all-terrain skis. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. rentals. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. rentals. which include a pass. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. lesson. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes).800) and the highest top elevation (10. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. Heavenly. Lessons. trail pass) is $34. % 702-749-5349.500 feet). there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. % 702-7823047. a new gondola and the famous tram. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7.
Stateline House of Ski. 515 East Moana Lane. % 702-3226001. 89502. % 702-358-4824. 89502. % 702-588-5935. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. of- . % 702-3239463. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 702-786-2020. % 702-786-7071. 235 East Plumb Lane. 1685 Highway 395 South. 89423. 2500 East 2nd Street. % 702-831-3537. 89451. Sundance Ski Company. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. Mogul Mouse. Sierra Mountaineer. 89451. % 916-544-1221.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. % 702-329-5358. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. C&J Flight Aviation. CA 96151. 89502. PO Box 19215. % 702-849-0111. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 2615 Mill Street. Snowind Sports. 89502. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. % 702782-0867. 321 Sky Way. Serva Ski. Galena Ski Rentals. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. % 702-831-2922. 89502. 140 Vesta Street. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 89502. 89502. South Lake Tahoe. % 702831-3500. In Reno. Excell Skates. 89502. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 209 Kingsbury. % 702786-5111. % 702-8269096. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. 1200 South Wells Avenue. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89451.
$$$-$$$$. Lake Village Vacations. three. $$$-$$$$. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. 398 US 50. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. $$$$. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). % 800-648-3353. a dance club. Harrah’s. poolside service. $$$$$$$. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. % 800-99-RIDGE. $$$-$$$$. % 702-588-8571. has two. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. The upscale Ridge Tahoe.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. The Douglas County Airport. % 800-6483773.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. the Sierras and. $$$-$$$$. . on this site since 1944. has 740 rooms. Tahoe Summit Village. % 800-635-0066. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. offers 534 rooms. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. Harvey’s Resort. High Country Soaring.. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. % 800-427-8397. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. eight restaurants. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. Lake Tahoe. % 702-784-4944. of course. also features condo accommodations.
Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. 24 Highway 28. $$-$$$. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. % 800-322-7723. $$$-$$$$. The Haus Bavaria B&B. $$$. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. % 800- .700 rooms on 38 floors. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. has 33 rooms. As in Las Vegas. The Zephyr Cove Resort.$$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. a rustic feel. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. % 800-731-6222. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. 2 Stateline Road. Today. as well as a gym with instructor on site. A perennial four-star winner. Harrah’s. combines great views. % 800-687-8733. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. % 702-588-6644. which serves free continental breakfast. 210 North Center Street. % 800-225-6382. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. 593 North Dyer Circle. 407 North Virginia Street. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. $-$$. the Cal-Neva Resort. % 702-831-0287. % 800-624-7980. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. $$. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. 111 Country Club Drive. $$-$$$. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. lawn games. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. with more than 1. % 702-8321234. first-class. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. Among the downtown locations. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. % 800-824-6391. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. $$. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms.
The Atlantis. has a heated pool. 310 South Carson Street. free airport shuttle and skier rates. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. % 702-8821887. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. 3575 South Virginia Street. Motel 6. Freeway convenient. boasts nearly 600 rooms. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. % 702-786-4070. $$$$. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. $$-$$$. 1100 Nugget Avenue. $$. convention facilities and some impressive suites. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. % 800-320-0627. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. 3131 South Virginia Street. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. $$. % 800-648-5966. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. including a barber shop. % 800-622-1890. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. $$. welcomes bargain hunters. It has more than 1. Rates start at $195 per night. which features theme rooms. Away from downtown. 1901 South Virginia.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. The St. 500 North Sierra Street. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. Charles Hotel. % 800-648-1177. % 800-723-6500. $$. $$. .000 rooms. % 800-282-2444. 701 East 7th Street. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. % 702-358-1080. 600 South Carson Street. $$$. and Vagabond Inn. 2707 South Virginia Street. Nearby. $$$. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. $$. $. two heated pools and a hair salon. % 800-937-1436. which overlooks the state government center. has more than 1. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. 710 West Robinson Street. an owner-built. $$. is a three-story. % 800-723-6500. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. % 702-827-0255. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. $$-$$$. a heated pool and other amenities. most notably the Days Inn. % 702-882-3643. the Eldorado. Circus Circus. % 702-825-7134. $. 345 North Virginia Street. the new Peppermill. $$. the Motel 6.
1979 US 395. $$-$$$. $$$. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. 300 Main Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. % 800-321-6983. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. $$. generic motels abound in Carson City. 1435 US 395. % 702-782-7644. 2001 Foothill Road. The Crooked House. The motel has 40 rooms. % 702-847-0111. 907 South Carson. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. . 800 North Carson. % 702-782-7075. #800-628-7831. It has four rooms. including the small Genoa House Inn. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. % 702-782-5697. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. % 702-782-9711. and Pioneer. for weary wanderers. $-$$. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. $$. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. Pratt. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. $. and a casino. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. 2332 Main Street. % 702-8825535. % 702-882-3046. some with kitchenettes.C. was built in the late 1800s. $$-$$$. 8 South F Street. $$. $-$$. two with private baths. the inn was built in 1872 by A. $$$. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. It has four rooms. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. 11 with private baths. $-$$. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 565 South D Street. 1627 US 395. $-$$. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. $$$. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. % 702-847-9777. % 702-847-0521. 1643 US 395. has five rooms. is the center of the action. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. There are 13 rooms. % 800-962-0732. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. $$. 1540 Main Street. The Chollar Mansion. % 702-557-2220. 180 Nixon Street. 1431 Ezell Street. % 702-782-8720.
Open for dinner only. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. Open for dinner only. 1200 Razorback Road. % 702-825-1250. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. % 702-941-0371. coffee shops. Reservations are recommended. The place has 14 rooms. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. the menu changes every two months. 210 North Sierra Street. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. Steak. % 702-588-6611. $. also run the gamut with delis. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. serves fresh Japanese steak. 3065 West 4th Street. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. 4201 West 4th Street. the lake’s first casino. Ichiban. a casino. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. 3127 South Virginia Street. % 702-786-1323. . % 702-827-4111. Famous Murphys. ethnic food and full buffets. of course. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. no TVs and. 328 Kingsbury Grade. try the Glory Hole. including a seafood and oyster bar. The Chart House. % 702-323-3200. along with Caesars Tahoe. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. The restaurant also does its own baking. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. % 702-323-5550. % 702-588-6276. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. seasonal ingredients. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. The hotels. The French cuisine is made with fresh. is a rousing pub with good food. % 702-588-2411.
1020 North Carson Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. There is also an extensive wine list. 234 North Virginia. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. 507 North Carson Street. % 702-8262121. 1301 North Carson Street. this is the place. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. Silvana’s. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. and Peppermill. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. 2707 South Virginia Street. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. % 702786-5700. Adele’s. % 702-8835100. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. 4389 South Carson Street. dinner only on weekends. 402 East William Street. % 702-689-7226. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-882-4556. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. 1540 Main Street. % 702-882-0486. El Charro Avitia. one of the top Italian eateries in country. South of the city center and south of the border. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. % 702-882-3353. 1112 North Carson Street. . Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. % 702-785-7000. Heidi’s. % 702-356-3300. % 702-883-6261. 255 North Sierra Street. Two blocks away. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. the Eldorado. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. % 702-348-9297. % 702882-1626. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. Boasting a large Italian menu. % 702-847-0111. serves fine French cuisine. The Carson Nugget Steak House. seafood and steak.
for more information. 1300 West 2nd Street. The overnight rate is $12. 2500 East 2nd Street. nine for RVs. Simply wonderful. % 702-323-3381. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. call % 702266-3343. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. There are 44 campsites here. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. the campground has 54 sites and running water. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. Call the Cedarville. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. . Rates run about $18 per night. % 916-279-6101. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. % 702-687-4319. For information and fees. California. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. Mount Rose has running water.900 feet. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. some for RVs and some for tents. % 916-573-2600. On the Nevada side. % 702-8822766. Nightly fees are $6. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. Open June through September. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. which straddles the Nevada-California border. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. The nightly fee is $5.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. Big Spring Reservoir. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. The overnight fee is $7. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. lies south of the river. office of the BLM. Reno RV Park. including Virgin Valley. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. Set at 8. % 702-322-2281. Open May through October. Showers are available. 735 Mill Street. % 702-789-2000. the campground has 24 sites.
Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce.. Orphans preferred. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. carrying only a pistol. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St.Pony Express Territory vada. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. the gutsy riders. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. California. 1861. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. pausing only long enough to change mounts. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. Incredibly. skinny.” Riders. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. Want ads called for “Young. willing to risk death daily. tore between stations. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. Beginning in April 1860. Missouri. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . Joseph. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. On October 24.. and Sacramento. wiry fellows not over eighteen. Bible and mail pouch. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west.
000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. Ranging in elevation from 3. ridges and valleys in the country. . Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. this area has plenty to offer. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. hiking and wildlife viewing. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. As might be expected. Just a few hours from Ely. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. But if you consider solitude. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. glacier-carved peaks. there is excellent skiing. spans some of the most beautiful.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. Near the town of Ely.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. so be prepared for anything. In the higher mountains.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. Great Basin.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
% 702-423-5128. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. canvasbacks. the refuge shelters upwards of 350.000 years. 1050 South Maine Street. covers 77. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. In recent years. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. With 10. % 702-867-3500. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. peregrine falcons. . below. (See On Water. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. Sunday. 1000 Auction Road. green-winged teals. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. January through March.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. White-faced ibis. snowy plovers. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. % 702-423-3677. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. pelicans. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area.000 photographic images. In peak years. Over 14. Admission is free. April through December. The Churchill County Museum & Archives.000 people. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8.
At press time. which features the famous Blue Angels. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. Just east of town. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. Every spring. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. Adam Fortunate Eagle. On the south end of town. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. The hunting season usually opens in October. Just off the highway are two short trails. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Pony Express Territory . Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area.000 years ago. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. Over 8. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. More than 21. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. is the artist in residence here. Besides regaling visitors with his tales.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. and “management” means hunting.
roars and moans. Fallon. . A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. 379 West William Avenue.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. Fallon. the low. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. wild West. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. A hike to the precipice is a safe. about three miles past West Gate. NV 89406. regularly emanate from the dune. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. listen for the mountain’s “singing. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. fauna. % 702-423-4556. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together.” meaning sword. If the roar of engines ever dies down. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. NV 89406. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. volcanic cliffs around it. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. 100 Campus Way. geology and history of the region. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. dark. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. Near the station.” Booms. % 702-423-2544. but strenuous.
1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. Round Mountain. Three miles later. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. Austin is a quiet. However the rush began.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. NV 89310. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. Six miles later. 13 miles east of Austin.350 feet. the boom was followed by the bust. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. PO Box 212.577 feet. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. Austin.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. past Bob Scott campground. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. population about 300. % 702-964-2145. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. PO Box 1149. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. As always. % 702-964-2200. NV 89045. Spencer’s Hot Springs. then climbs again to Austin. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. then to paved NV 376. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). which includes the 1863 newspaper office.
is recommended for serious. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. A long. experienced cavers only. At mile 55. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. Use caution here and stay out of the pool.500 years ago. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. There is also a free campground here. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. After merging with Lower Mine Road. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. At mile 30. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. near Pete’s Summit. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. % 702-964-2200. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. % 702635-4000. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. A series of safe. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. NV 89820. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers.000 years ago.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. PO Box 212. NV 89310. Austin. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. PO Box 1420. The hill is located on private land. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. Battle Mountain. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. The limestone cavern. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. . small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. are open to visitors just off the road. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse.
the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. Still. and the Jackson House Hotel. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. The shell of the building. Eureka. completed in 1880 and still in use today.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. but most definitely worth a gander. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. The building. some a little less gloriously than others.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. Eureka’s population of 9. Not until five years later. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. % 702-237-5484. Eureka. But by 1890 the rush was over. PO Box 14. are still a major facet of the local economy. however. The state’s No. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. Gold mines. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. By 1878. dates from 1877.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. found in the valleys around Eurkea. NV 89316. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years.
Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Eureka. Entering town at night . and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Monday through Friday and by appointment. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. US 50 rolls across basin and range. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. Situated at 9. this mini-city (population about 5. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. NV 89316. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. n Ely Back on US 50. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. % 702-237-5484.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin.000 feet. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. PO Box 14. A few miles farther south. Pronounced EE-lee.500 residents.
accessories. a bicycle. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town.50 per person. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. The museum. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. % 702-2894710.300 feet. Since they went cold in the 1880s. Pony Express Territory . The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. NV 89301. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. furniture. as well as an original. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. Admission is free. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. 2000 Aultman Street. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. On the other side of town. East Ely. showers and hiking trails. clothing. former First Lady Pat Nixon. running water. % 702-728-4467. Return to US 50. % 702-289-2085. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. The White Pine Public Museum. like many museums in this territory. depot. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. depart on selected dates from May through September. Prices start at $10 per person. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. Call for exact dates and times.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. Tours of the railroad yard. located on East 11th Street. There is primitive camping here. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. engine house. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. PO Box 150040.
150 6th Street. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. contact the Ely office of the BLM. Bristlecone Convention Center. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. Designated a national park in October. % 702-234-7331. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno.000 people a year visit the park. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. From Baker. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. sometimes by the hundreds. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. % 702-289-8877. untamed backcountry. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. a proposal to create a 6. Only about 70. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. While hikers are welcome. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. 636 Aultman Street. That leads quickly to Baker. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. % 800496-9350. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. For more information. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. In 1922. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. Most of the 77. % 702-289-4865. In the 1950s a . 1986. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is.
the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. ski resorts and tramways. among others. flowstone and soda straws. stalagmites.000. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13.067-foot Wheeler Peak. % 702-234-7331. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. in 1986.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. are hard to beat. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. Prices are $4 for adults. The high-altitude campgrounds. Christmas and New Year’s Day. the park’s crown jewel. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. limited to 30 people at a time. or speleotherms: stalactites. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. Finally. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. draperies. Call ahead for conditions. columns. too. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. While celebrating a victory. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. below.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months.086-acre Great Basin National Park. then head straight out of the park. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. NV 89311-9702. (See On Foot and Camping. Congress settled on 77. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain.000 to 44. Baker. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. are held every day except Thanksgiving. $3 for juniors. . Tours of the cavern. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. which is actually one huge cavern. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy.
which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. are spessartite.000 feet.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. Carvers NW. which has picnic tables and shade trees. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. . Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. Tierney Creek. Bakeoven Creek. to reach the village of Kingston. Drive three miles to the recreation area. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. Arc Dome. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. Set at 7. The garnets found here. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest.600 feet. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. or use paved NV 376. Millet Ranch. To reach Garnet Hill. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. South Toiyabe Peak. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. a few of which are even of gem quality.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. % 702-9642671.
is marked with trailhead signs. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. as well as all the water you will need. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. % 702-289-3031 for more information. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. windswept paths. which at 12.000-acre. which may be impassable when wet. Pony Express Territory . Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. leave the high country immediately. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. headache.000 feet along rocky. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). The trail ends just before the summit. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. From the trailhead/parking area. which heads west toward the peak. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. set aside in 1989. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. with many trails climbing above 10. Baker. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. If threatening clouds approach. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. 1. The wilderness. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. This is some serious highcountry hiking. and Mount Moriah. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. After about 10 miles of hiking. nausea. a unique. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks.
140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. the six-mile . Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. In 1878. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. At 13. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. The bowl. or cirque. This is another depression etched by a glacier. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. Continue straight. If it is safe to venture to the peak. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. To reach the summit. Finally.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice.063 feet. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. Use extreme caution here. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. the views of the 8. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. then turn left again. the last 1. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. then descends to Teresa Lake.
700 feet in the first seven miles. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. Turn left. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. Wheeler Peak. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. Around mile six. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. To continue the loop hike. this is a nice overnight stop. After about three miles. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. once the site of some mining activity. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. Return the way you came. To return to the trailhead. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh.926-foot Pyramid Peak. . then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. Kious Spring. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. just off to the east. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. In good weather. Lehman Caves. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move.950 years. subalpine conditions.” Follow this exposed route toward 11.
89883. HCR 33. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. 701 Avenue F. . Wildlife West Guide Service. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. % 702-289-8886. Box 33570. 89301. HC 34. 3125 Stark Lane. 5030 Reno Highway.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. 189 Aultman Street. 1707 Rice Road. % 702235-7439. % 702-664-2977. 89301. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. % 702423-9215. 89406. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. 1050 Aultman Street. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. % 702-423-6171. Flying M Stables. PO Box 34005. 89406. 89406. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. Burdick Guide Service. 89406. a quartermile. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 2005 Harrigan Road. Wendover George A. 89406. PO Box 2560. % 702-867-3388. % 702-289-4468. 89301. % 702-289-4208. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. % 702-4239215. % 702-238-5232. Great Basin Inn. % 702-2893063. As of presstime. 89301. Sportsworld. sells camping and outdoor equipment. % 702-423-5185. 203 Heritage Drive. % 800-874-0903. J & P Auto Parts. is worth a gander. 89301. White River Guide Service. Daum. Silver State Stables. 89301.
Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. Austin. For more information. brochures and campgrounds. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. PO Box 130. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. NV 89310.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. one would think tiny Austin.000 per year. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. A 10-mile loop with a 1. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. The route runs north out of the canyon. Austin. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. population 300. For more information. Dune-buggy. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. contact the BLM.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. NV 89310. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . Austin By its hip marketing campaign. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. % 702-885-6000. the sixstory. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. % 702-964-2671. PO Box 504.
Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. From the pavement. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. and bring plenty of water. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. when the weather is dry. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. directions and road conditions. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. for maps. past the US Forest Service station. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. . then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. sells and services bicycles. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. % 702-289-8886. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. % 702-234-7331. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. 1500 Aultman Street. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway.
Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. In 1997. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. White crappie can be hooked March through May. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. along with sportfishing. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. Boat ramps are located in two spots. where worms and corn are said to work best. Lahontan State Recreation Area. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. surrounds a 10. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. % 702-688-1500. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. The trout limit is 10. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. Pony Express Territory . a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin.
If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. J & P Auto Parts. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. 855 West Williams Avenue. Great Basin Inn. via paved NV 376 and a three.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. % 702-423-6031. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. % 702-289-4468. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. is one of the biggest places in town. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. % 702-289-3063. 1500 Aultman Street. 1050 Aultman Street. A few chain HO TE L . with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. The Upper Reese River. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. which feeds the lake. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. 701 Avenue F. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. % 702-289-4865. and one of the best bargains. $-$$. % 702-289-8886.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin.
% 702-964-2698. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. As you drive in from the west. The Eureka Motel. $-$$. % 702-964-2471. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . % 702-423-5151. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. has 17 rooms. the Pony Express House. $-$$. $$$. 180 West Williams Avenue. with 10 rooms. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. has 21 rooms. $-$$. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. % 702-423-4648. try Jackson House B&B. 70 East Williams Avenue. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. instruction. Call for information. the 22-room Value Inn. $$. is a modern. The red brick structure was built in 1877. meals and overnight accommodations.800 acres. It is open seasonally. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. 115 Northwest Main Street. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). 1705 South Taylor Street. which has 49 rooms. rates and directions. $$. but after a long day on the road. a heated pool and a small casino. % 702-964-2306. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. Smith Creek Ranch. 25 North Taylor Street. % 702-237-5334. and. $$$. who really cares. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. % 702-237-5577. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. including the Comfort Inn. $.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. % 702-237-5247. % 702-423-5554. a heated pool and interior corridors. $. the Budget Inn. which has 30 rooms. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. also called Main Street here. basic equipment. The ranch. most of which are on US 50. $-$$. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. which is north-south running US 95. % 702-9642605. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. has 27 rooms. The Sundown Lodge. % 702-423-2194. $-$$. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. For a real blast from the past. On the east end of town. $-$$. % 702-423-2277. which has 17 rooms. while on the southern edge of town. % 702-423-4254. combines a B&B with a private. $. 1830 West Williams Avenue. the Lincoln Motel. called Main Street as it runs through town. The Nevada Belle Motel.
the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. 501 Aultman Street. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. 700 Avenue I. % 702289-6671. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. The Bristlecone Motel. which has 19 rooms. $$-$$$. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. $-$$$. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. % 702-289-4884. $-$$. is another living antique. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. $. The inn is open June through September. $. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. 220 East 11th Street. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. 770 Avenue O. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. % 702-289-4497. $$. % 702-289-4747. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. % 702-289-8687. There are also private balconies. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. located on the south side of town off US 93. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. 1501 Avenue F. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. 930 Aultman Street. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. 5th . Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). which has 61 rooms. $-$$. % 702-237-9988. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. $-$$. two-story hotel. the building was vacant 10 years later. % 702-289-8900.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. 701 Avenue I. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. For a more genteel stay. and its twin. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. 500 High Street. % 702-2891234. After years of dormancy. $-$$. 1101 Aultman Street. % 702-289-6665.300. $-$$. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. the inn has five rooms with private baths. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. has 21 rooms. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. % 702-289-8838. For a more modern taste. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. Ely With a population of more than 5. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino.
$. PO Box 90. South of Baker at the national park boundary. . 150 4th Street. which has a laundromat and showers. % 702-289-4411. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. % 702-237-7302. the Border Inn. 24hour laundromat and showers. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. $. Behind the Silverjack. % 702-234-7323. so call ahead for operating hours. what with its 29 rooms. Baker. NV 89311. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. 1301 Aultman Street. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. % 702-289-3033. and the White Pine Motel. $-$$. with its seven rooms. % 702234-7323.er. It is open June through August. % 702-234-7343. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. % 702-234-7267.. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. % 702-234-7272. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. The Silverjack Motel. guided tours and off-road adventures. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. and Whispering Elms RV Park. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. along with horseback riding. % 702234-7300.. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. $. is a favorite spot for travelers. Utah. and two others outside of Baker. % 702-289-3800. even fast food joints are nonexistent. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. offers tipis and a campground. $-$$. $.
is home to The Diner. Stockman’s Casino. % 702-423-6166. Open for breakfast. If your mind is on pizza. The Fallon Nugget Casino. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. % 702-423-5588. try Mary’s Owl . Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. % 702-964-2493. however. % 702-867-2769. 4150 Reno Highway. including the few eateries. is known throughout Fallon. Denny’s. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. % 702-867-3750. specializing in omelets and steaks. Kentucky Fried Chicken. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. Carol’s Country Kitchen. have been serving great burgers. Tony’s. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. % 702423-6828. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. 1955 McClean Road. In 1929 and ’30. % 702-423-3233. lunch and dinner. including McDonald’s. Toiyabe Café. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. 960 Auction Road. 1560 West Williams Avenue.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. The Mexican food at La Cocina. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. The International Café and Bar. serves up steaks. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. 125 South Maine Street. 1350 West Williams Avenue. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. % 702-423-2117. % 702-423-3111. % 702-964-9905. Café Nations. The Depot Casino. 875 West Williams Avenue. 70 South Maine Street. is Fallon’s only coffee house. % 702-964-2220. Smack in the center of town. In the 1920s and ‘30s. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. is also open for three squares a day. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City.
Fallon RV Park. West of Fallon. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. serving diner-style grub. % 702-237-5477.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. Believe it or not. % 702-289-4884. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. % 702-237-5280. 211 5th Street. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. % 702-964-2412. 5787 Reno Highway. and Hubtotel RV Park. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. % 702-289-3905. and Orient Express. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . % 702-867-3636. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. top sirloin steak and eggs. however. offers 45 sites. The Owl Club. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. 562 Aultman Street. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. 1455 Aultman Street. % 702-867-2332. is also open 24 hours a day. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. % 702-964-2627. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. Jerry Restaurant No. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. % 702-289-4888. 4800 Reno Highway. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. 501 Aultman Street. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. 21. % 702-688-1500. The Busy Bee Drive-In. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. % 702-289-3033. and is attached to a bar. has 64 sites. 2160 Aultman Street. located three miles north of town on US 93. Lahontan State Recreation Area. where the restaurants are also along US 50. % 702-289-3313. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. The Fireside Inn. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. serves a fine steak sandwich. might as well top it off in Eureka. 701 Avenue I. % 702-289-6665. % 702-2289-3765. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. % 702-237-5356. which features prime rib. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out.
No running water or firewood. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. both off of US 50. There is drinking water here. NV 89820. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. None have running water. For information. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. where there are eight campsites set at 7. Austin. There are 15 sites. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. % 702-635-4000. To reach Bird Creek campground. PO Box 1420.800 feet. Bob Scott Campground. Battle Mountain. 24 miles east of Austin. % 702-964-1011. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. along with campfire rings. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. Just east of the Eureka town limits. After a few miles. then go a mile to County Road 1059. NV 89310. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. which are open June through September with running water. Finally. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. picnic tables and vault toilets. Open April to October.500 feet. For more information and road conditions. set at 7. Just east of town. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. % 702-964-2671.300 feet. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. PO Box 130. Only six miles southwest of Ely. grills. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. as there are no services near the water. Austin RV Park. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze).195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. About nine miles south of Big Creek. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. North of Ely. There are 10 sites here .
where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. In the center of the park. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. 350 8th Street. Ely. In Great Basin National Park.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. For more information. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. % 702-2893303. Contact the visitors center. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park.250 feet). operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. % 702-234-7331. % 702-289-4865. On the northern edge of the park. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs.300 feet.530 feet. has 100 sites. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. depending on weather conditions. Pony Express Territory . NV. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. Set at 7. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. 89301.752 feet. % 702-2893413. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. Upper Lehman. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. There are 30 sites here at 7. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. on US 93. The BLM. this is the only park campground open all year. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435.886 feet. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. and there are no showers. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. % 702-2893031. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. To reach the campground from US 50. and Valley View RV Park. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road.
when University of Arizona researcher Dr. He found one living specimen dating back 4. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. call many parts of this high country home. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. who described them as “lowly old giants. not many of them stayed around very long. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. Throughout history. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. however. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still.000 feet and more. the state animal. Today in Cowboy Country. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. Edmund Schulman. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine.700 years.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. humans. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. sagebrushcovered sea. the oldest living thing on earth. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. started pulling core samples. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. . Desert bighorn sheep. reaching as high as 11. Named Methuselah.000-year-old duck decoys. The short. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster.
driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. In 1993. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. and know how to use them. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. Carry good maps and a compass. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. lakes and reservoirs. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°.000 years. In fact. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. Elko headed the list of the 100 . with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. The weather here can be as wild as the land. bass and other gamefish.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. towns like Winnemucca. Winter brings rain and snow. bikers and equestrians. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. streams. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. Summers are generally hot and dry. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything.
This is a place where pick-up trucks. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. followed by the doomed Donner Party. combed Cowboy Country. lunch and dinner. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. Cowboy Country . The famous trail. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. including one named Samuel Clemens. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. took to sheepherding.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. but everyday tools. after the riches ran out. but thanks to new mining technology. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. both held in Elko. In late 1860s. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. parts of which are still visible today. others moved on. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. paralleled the Humboldt River. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. But since the early days.
then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. which crosses the Humboldt River.300.000-square-mile Pershing County. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. which the company named after him. The seat of 6. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. turn left on Derby Road. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. George Lovelock. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. With a population of just over 2. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. After eight miles. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. arrived here in 1866. Five miles southwest of the shelter. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. which measures . about 17 miles from Lovelock. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. located on the southern outskirts of town. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter.
The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. are large. picnicperfect park. He may have been led there by Natchez. NV 89419. Tufas. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. which also features the community pool. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. the first ever in the Great Basin. PO Box 821. dark. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. Mummified remains were found here. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. One of only two round courthouses in the country. many of which were donated by locals. Scientific excavations. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. in 1886 or 1887. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. % 702-273-2713. clothing and household items. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. Admission is free. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. Lovelock.
which seems close enough to touch. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. % 702-538-7321. is centered on this man-made lake. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. PO Box 821. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas.134 n Cowboy Country vada. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. where stone . see below under Adventures. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. below) and wellmanicured homes. fishing and camping. After later taking the name Mark Twain. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). Open all year. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. For details. About 16 families reside in Unionville. NV 89419. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. % 702-273-2713. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. as well as opportunities for boating. Lovelock. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper).
% 702/623-2225. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. dancing. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. They later brought their families. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. % 702-623-2912. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. except for lunch. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. Edna Purviance. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. the Humboldt Museum complex. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. Curator . celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. Winnemucca (population 7. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. From here it’s five miles to the town. Today their descendants. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. a good spot for a picnic. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. Admission is free. To reach Unionville from I-80. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. a former resident. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World.
which might be too much for an afternoon walk. NV 89445. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County.000. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. was erected in 1863. 352 Bridge Street. Winnemucca. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. The tour visits 30 sites. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. There is a gift shop next door. one of two in the country. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca.000 in gold. . is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. Winnemucca. 95 Bridge Street. Winnemucca. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. % 702623-5025. NV 89445. but all are easily drivable. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. Like something out of old Mexico. US Forest Service. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. NV 89445. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. The thieves escaped to Texas. along with a thank you note. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. % 800-962-2638. NV 89445. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. 705 East Fourth Street. % 702-623-1500. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. % 702-623-5025. St. Winnemucca. The former First National Bank. nabbing $32. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. 602 Bridge Street. Another gem is the Shone House. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard.
when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. all but 250 people left. To reach the remains of the camp. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. along with the local watering hole. The Rochester Mining District. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. and 2. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. the town was an empty shell. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. established Scottsdale in 1866. which serves as a meeting place and information center. after fending off resident Paiutes. once a busy town of more than 2. Today about 100 people live in town. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. Jungo. Three years later the village became Paradise City.300 people had moved by 1913. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. A 20th-century ghost town. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. The camp was abandoned by 1869. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. which . Midas is two miles from this junction. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca.
A state park. sometimes an angler’s paradise. is easy to locate. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. biking. It’s the white. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness.) In town. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. Just south of town. this town of about 25.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. (See Adventures. (See Adventures and Camping. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. Gas is also available. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. 1515 Idaho Street. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. % 702-578-3381. fishing and camping. beautiful high-country lake. verdant marshes. The local mining. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. however. After all. % 702-7383418.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. % 702-623-5025. offers a bar. In Winnemucca. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. Basque . deli and soda fountain. Paradise Saloon.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. obtain maps. this is Cowboy Country. located on the extreme east end of town.
Touring n 139 immigrants. % 702-738-7508. Displays of local wildlife. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon.C. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). also known as J. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. % 702-738-7123. along with various other events throughout the year.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. 501 Railroad Street. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. and Sunday. Harris Field. % 800-654-3131. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. % 800-453-9417. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. . geography. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 10 AM to 5 PM. The Western Folklife Center. Hertz Rent-A-Car. Admission is free. % 800-8727245. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. % 800-331-1212. El Aero Services. and a charter airline. Deweys Rent-A-Car. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. 9 AM to 5 PM. % 702-738-5131. For airport information. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. 1 PM to 5 PM. geology and industry abound.
000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. 89803. Elko. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. Humboldt National Forest. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. At the . 89801. with elevations ranging up to 11. Elko Chamber of Commerce. From town. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. 89801. including the remote. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range.387 feet at Ruby Dome. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. Elko. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. 89801. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. located southeast of Elko. % 800-248-ELKO. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. % 702-738-5171. 1601 Idaho Street. fishing and camping in the entire West. (See Adventures and Camping. % 702-753-0200.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. % 702-738-7135. passing Powerhouse picnic area. Elko. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. 90. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. 700 Moren Way. Elko.800 feet). n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. From Elko. Alpine vistas. 3900 East Idaho Street. 976 Mountain City Highway.
500 people flooded into the region. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. a high clearance vehicle is required. down into Jarbidge Canyon. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. Even when they are open. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. so drive cautiously. More than 1. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. For details on all of this. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. Yes. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. turns south. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. or call them at % 702-488-2315. check with the owners of the Trading Post. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. Idaho. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. From Wells. this town sticks to Mountain Time. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. Nevada.387 feet. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. then north another 25 miles. the road meets the Jarbidge River. is visible in the west.Touring n 141 crest. (See On Foot. Ruby Dome. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. The road leads east 21 miles. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. rising 11. and there’s no argument here. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. For access to both. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. and by the 1930s the rush was over. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. From the south. . see below. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. U-shaped valley. is spectacular.
306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. The town was abandoned in 1942. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. n Wells From Elko. both available at the Trading Post. 4 and go five miles northeast. exit at No. Bonneville Speedway Museum. Cool. The range is also home to Angel Lake. To access the flats. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. the presence of casinos. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. the main difference between the two sides being. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. stare out across the famous. % 801-665-7721. % 702-752-3215. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. of course. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . the main artery running up the east side of the state. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank.) On the Utah side of the state line. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. For ghost town fans. try Stuart’s Foodtown. Sunday until 9 PM. however. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. the 44. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. n Wendover From Wells. Besides fulfilling the need for speed.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. reached easily via a paved highway. Before entering town. which rises to 11. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. head east from the border. and the 37. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. This is also the junction of US 93. 647 Humboldt Avenue.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September.
and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. hawks.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. Eagles. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. falcons and ospreys are common. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. the historic World War II B-29s. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. June Both hay. a . which gains 1. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza.600 feet in two miles. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike.000 buckaroos. % 702-664-3414. The night before the events. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. which attracts upwards of 10. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. is held in late March or early April. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races.
call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. In Wendover. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. Phone numbers can be found above. hear the music and eat the food. For details. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. Near Wendover. featuring food. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony.or 23-mile loop. Unless otherwise indicated. when tanks. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. July In July. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. . six. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. dancing. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. There is a traditional dance contest. a parade and feats of strength. The largest Basque get-together in the US. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. call % 702-635-8245. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. under Touring. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit.. The town of McDermitt.
passable by high-clearance vehicles. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. Pronghorn antelope. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. Star Peak (elevation 9. Aspen.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. To reach the trailhead. The first half of the moderately strenous. Granite Peak (elevation 9. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. which . turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon.200 feet. Chartered in 1989. including the 31. crossing Buffalo Creek. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. 1994. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. This makes for a great loop drive. the road. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. The trail is punishing. From the top. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous.732) is the highest point. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. willow and cottonwood country. From here.000 feet in four miles. leads due east toward the highest point. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. climbing more than 4. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. The trailhead appears after three miles. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. Star Peak. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. To reach the trail. Falcon Press Publishing. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon.834 feet).
Return the way you came. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. Hikers can visit rock peaks. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. big horn sheep. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Horses are welcome on these trails. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. glacial lakes.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. Come prepared for anything. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. more than 10. narrow canyons.6 miles to a parking area. descends toward a watercourse. about one mile south of town. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). where you turn south.415). A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. Mountain lions.” Elevations range from 6. % 702-623-5025. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. including Singas Creek. cirque basins.800 feet above sea . Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. USGS 7. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. depending on weather conditions.
sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. set at 9. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass.400 feet. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. % 702-738-7135. Pause to rest but not to fish. and his dog Molly. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. so check road conditions before heading out. Franklin Lake NW. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. The trail then descends from nosebleed country.Adventures n 147 level.400 feet and heads north. Feel free. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead.300-foot . The 1. Hyslop. After about a mile and a half. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. At 10. know this region as well as anyone. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. % 702-752-3357. The five-mile. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. as there are no trout here. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. The pass is often closed in winter. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. of course. this is the high point of the trek. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere.500 feet. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. From Roads End.
Most of the paths are found in the 113. From the trailhead. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here.000-foot mark. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. Return the way you came. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. Finally. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. the closest town. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. The trail drops again.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. Idaho.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. subalpine forests. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. On a good day. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. Wild- . Just past the spring. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. Unfortunately.700 feet. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness.000 feet to 10. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
campsites and restrooms. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. is also a good fishing spot. rainbows. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. For more information. Channel cats. brown and rainbow trout. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. supports brook. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. The site has a paved boat ramp. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. and everything is open year-round. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. To reach the lake from Elko. and black bass have become a favorite catch. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. mountain whitefish.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. call % 702-758-6493. % 702-623-5025. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here.
and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. including bald and golden eagle.154 n Cowboy Country ers.000 acres. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. elevation 8.800 feet. Angel Lake Near Wells. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. white-faced ibis. At the foot of the range. % 702-738-5171. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. great sandhill crane. trumpeter swam. For an easier drive from Wells. Within six miles of the trailhead. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. contact the US Forest Service. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. midway between the northern and southern portions. To reach the refuge from Elko. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. Turn left and head south 32 miles. short-eared owl and American kestrel. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. so check road conditions before heading out. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. For more information. . take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west.
have become a local haven for divers. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. % 702-777-DIVE. Elko Guide Service. Rainbow. In warmer months. are the best bets here. Raley’s. HC 60. 89801. 423 South Bridge Street. % 702-7442277. % 702-664-3414. the bowcut trout. Grandview Marine. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. 89801. 89833. % 702779-2226. PO Box 685. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. 89833. Secret Pass Outfitters. crystalline Blue Lakes. 89801. 89801. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. PO Box 515. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . For more information.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. To reach the 2. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. % 702-625-2453. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. % 702-7388473. catfish. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. HC 60. 1250 Lamoille Highway. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. 285 12th Street. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. the spring-fed. % 702779-2268.400-acre lake. HC30 Box 17 #13. % 702-7382775. 2511 Mountain City Highway.
There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. covering 5. with a 24-hour casino. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. % 702-753-6867. Elko SnoBowl. one tame and the other decidedly not so. not to mention 74 rooms. pool and jacuzzi. 2805 Unionville Road. .000 acres of skiable mountain. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch.500 feet. % 702-273-2937. is convenient to I-80. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. Lunch and dinner are extra. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. The outfit boasts 5. lounge. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. is the most happening place in town. % 800-528-1234. $$. The Lovelock Inn. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. $$$. offers 130 acres of terrain. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. depending on snowfall.500 to 6. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. % 702-538-7585. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. 1420 Cornell Avenue. ranging from 5. restaurant. then head west for five miles to town. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. $-$$. 55 Cornell Avenue. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. Although there isn’t a television to be found. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. To reach the ranch from I80.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region.200 feet. % 702-738-7135. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. lodging and all the extras.200 vertical feet. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. Trips are limited to 16 people.
$$-$$$. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. a pool and 223 rooms. $-$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. is for you. the 170-room Holiday Inn. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. and the Days Inn. $-$$. % 800-545-0044. the Red Lion Inn. casino. The Red Lion not only has a casino. $$. eateries. the Ameritel Inn Elko. and the generic. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. % 702-738-8787. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. restaurant and bar. $$-$$$. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. $$. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 800-346-5306. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. starting with the two biggies. but also its own charter airline. There are plenty of cheap. % 702-738-8425. $$-$$$. 1930 Idaho Street. % 702-623-3646.000. $$. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. and the Motel 6. offers 40 rooms. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. 3015 Idaho Street. 837 Idaho Street. a lounge with live entertainment. $$$$$. $$. with 150 rooms. % 702-625-1818. % 702-738-8421. % 702-623-1116. the Super 8. the 80-room Val-U Inn. % 702-623-1180. % 800-633-6435. % 702-7387261. restaurant and full bar. Casino Express. 400 1st Street. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. % 702-623-5248. 2065 Idaho Street. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the Gold Country Motor Inn. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Holiday Motel. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. $$. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. % 800-262-8901. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). $$-$$$$. There are also two Best Westerns. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The Gold Country Inn. $-$$. 2050 Idaho Street. % 702-623-3661. offering 70 rooms. basic motels on the main drag. in- . 46-room Pyrenees Motel. including the queen of Elko establishments. $$$. the Red Lion Inn. % 800-645-5658. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. and the Model T Motel.
can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. Jiggs Guest Ranch. is an exclusive. The Shilo Inn. including skeet shooting. $-$$. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. There is even space for campers and RVers. PO Box 281208. $$-$$$. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. $$-$$$. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. and the Thunderbird Motel. $-$$. $$$-$$$$. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. detached cabin with jacuzzi. % 702-753-6356. bar and pool. % 702-753-6363. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. There are 141 rooms. % 702-738-7115. Just outside of Lamoille. % 702-578-3530. hiking and fly fishing. along with a pool. % 702-738-5141. restaurants. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. 89828. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. % 702-738-8488. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. 1755 Idaho Street. Stonehouse Country Inn. biking and horseback riding. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. $-$$. . $$$-$$$$. a swimming pool. % 702-753-6281.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. $$$$. has 70 rooms. 345 Idaho Street. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. $$. % 702-738-5522. jacuzzi and fitness center. Red’s Ranch. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. $$$-$$$$. 340 Commercial Street. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. PO Box 281381. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. Lamoille. Away from Idaho Street. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. Stockmen’s Hotel. some with kitchenettes. $$. 2401 Mountain City Highway. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko.
which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. % 800-848-7300. $. 326 6th Street. the Rest Inn Suites. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. HC 62. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. % 702-488-2311. % 702-752-3888. the Outdoor Inn. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. offers another 24 rooms. % 702-752-2151. PO Box 300. There are more than 1. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. The Super 8. 89826. % 702-752-3384. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. For more information. $$$-$$$$. % 702-4082338. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. % 702-488-2315. % 702-752-2277. even by the neighbors in Utah. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. 576 6th Street. % 702-752-2101. 456 6th Street. % 702-7523065. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. if you’re into chains. Together . HC 62. 930 6th Street. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. has 56 rooms. $$-$$$. $-$$. $-$$. $. which also has a restaurant and bar. On Main Street. most of them planted along 6th Street. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. $-$$$$. $$-$$$. % 702-752-3604. 100 Wendover Boulevard. On the north side of town. If not. Down the street. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. There are 57 rooms. and the Best Western Sage Motel. Cottonwood Ranch. Jarbidge. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. and the Old West Inn. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. $-$$. PO Box 260090. $-$$. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. $. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. $.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. % 702-752-3353. % 702-752-2116. the Chinatown Motel. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. 1250 East 6th Street. PO Box 1300.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone.
485 Cornell Avenue. along with daily specials. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. % 702-273-3232. and Pizza Factory. is another gamer’s haven. shrimp and Basque side dishes. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. tennis courts. The Peppermill Hotel. 260 Maine Street. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. La Casita. with 90 rooms. $$-$$$. restaurants. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. 410 Cornell Avenue. serving steak. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. Nearby. lounges. and until 2 PM on Sunday. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. % 702-273-2442. which basks in the Basque tradition. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. $-$$. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. % 702-664-2888. 9 PM on Sunday. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. live entertainment. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. a 14. live showroom entertainment. offers breakfast. % 702-623-3197. pool and jacuzzi. the Super 8. which has live entertainment. In the center of town. leg of lamb. is open until 10 PM every day. Wee B’s Pizza & More. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. Mexican food and pizza. pool. including restaurants and lounges. 750 Cornell Avenue. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday.000-square-foot casino. a health club. % 702-273-7773. jacuzzi. % 800-537-0207. 1420 Cornell Avenue. % 702-273-2971. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. $$. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. % 702-273-7444. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. . lunch and dinner. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. % 800-648-9660. 1035 Wendover Boulevard.
There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. while The Griddle. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-4104. all of their meat is cut to order. 1061 West Fourth Street. % 702-623-2908. Restaurante San Fermin. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. Elko The Red Lion Inn. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. This being ranch country. % 702-623-3455. % 702-738-5141. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. 405 Silver Street. seafood and chicken. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Specializing in steak. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. 340 Commercial Street. but get there before 1 PM. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. 95 South Bridge Street. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. 2065 Idaho Street. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. China Garden. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. 180 Melarkey Street. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. % 702-738-9691. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. Stockmen’s Hotel. % 702-623-2977. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. % 702-625-2555. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. since 1863. % 702-738-3214. % 702-623-6777. . The atmosphere is definitely casual. % 702-623-4440. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. Toki Ona. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. home of the world’s largest potato field. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. Another Basque establishment. The Steak House. 1550 Idaho Street. % 800-545-0044.
Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. opens daily at 11 AM. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. % 702-738-7088. Pizza Barn. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. Pine Lodge. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. Burger Bar. 2525 Mountain City Highway. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. % 702-752-3210. % 702-488-2311. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. also serves hearty meals. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. % 702-753-3877. to peruse the ornate bar. delivers on its name. If you crave Mexican food. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. % 702-4882315. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). 780 Commercial Street. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. % 702-738-1622. 1740 Mountain City Highway. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. . % 702-753-6363. Prices range from moderate to expensive. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. Main and Humboldt Streets. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. La Fiesta.300 souls. 9 Beans and a Burrito. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. where it survived The Big One in ’06. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. % 702-7382541. depending on weather conditions.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. 217 Idaho Street. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. % 702-738-7898. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. % 702-753-6356. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway.
For modern hunter-gatherers. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. The main draw here is 11. 680 Wendover Boulevard. The fee is $7 per night. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. Set at 7. call % 800-962-2638. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. % 800-648-9660. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. call % 702-538-7321. which holds trout and walleye. Sites 22. $3 per night in winter. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. There is running water and vault toilets. Fees are $7 per night in summer. just north of the dam. offer 12 different restaurants. 100 Wendover Boulevard. % 800-848-7300. 27 and 29 are especially good. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. two beautiful US Forest Service . 25. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. including the ubiquitous casino buffet.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. Set at 7. 23. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. the area has two campgrounds. The other one. call % 702-738-5171. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway.600 feet. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. $8 for a two-family site. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. For more information. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. The Peppermill Hotel.400 feet. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. 22 miles north of Lovelock. For more information. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. located at the end of Hanson Street. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. For more information.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine.
Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. first-served sites. and are open June to October. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. One mile north of town. all free. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. % 208-5434129. and the fee is $7 per night. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. Set at 8. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. The campground. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. but no running water. depending on the availability of running water.900 feet. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. including three run by the US Forest Service. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night.500 feet. For more information. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site.800 feet and is popular with anglers. offering 18 sites with running water. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. and the fee is $8 per night. About five miles up NV 225. Angel Creek is set at 6. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. The cabins are open October through mid-May. % 702-752-3357. has 37 first-come. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. The fee is $5 per night. . For information on the above campgrounds. with running water. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. The campground is usually open May 23 through October.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground.
Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. both socially and physically. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. are in a state of “arrested decay. like Belmont and Rhyolite. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. Meanwhile. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. writer. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. US For- B Pioneer Territory . marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. Others. however. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. an 11. who once roamed this entire area.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
but the rest of the country. Geographically. In the Mojave Desert. People and services are scarce. Department of Defense. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. Toiyabe. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Rocky Mountain elk. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. then limber pine at higher elevations. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas.Touring n 167 est Service. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. affordable housing . The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. low taxes. temperatures routinely climb above 120°.000. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. Nevada Division of State Parks. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. and six state parks to explore. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. In the lowlands. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts.
often overlooked corner of central Nevada.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. 1771 Sagehen Road. According to Winona LaDuke. as of this writing. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. % 702-751-0821.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. The 22. mission-style. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). % 702-7270896. On the south end of town in a modern. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. It’s also one of the hottest. only winery in Nevada. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. 3810 Winery Road. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. % 702-7276900.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. 1141 South Highway 160. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. % 702-727-5800. is the first and. authorizing up to 90. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. there’s no competition). In 1997. blue and white building.
go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. however. prairie falcons. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. % 702-372-1131. Amargosa Valley.300 spread over 545 square miles. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. coyotes and rabbits. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. coots. HCR 70. for some handmade Mexican food. It’s no easy job. following the signs to Ash Meadows. Visitors can. including ducks. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. and the second-greatest in all of North America. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. whitefaced ibises. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. then head west for about 20 miles. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. mallards. great blue herons. snipe. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. % 702-372-5435. . Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. NV 89020. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. inaccessible to the general public. Box 610Z. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. moorhens.
000 claims over 30 square miles. HC 70. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. three newspapers. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. NV 89020. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. PO Box 6102. . Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. the gray. maps. Amargosa Valley. 19 hotels. % 702-5532200.000. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. and the old train depot. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. 50 saloons.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. Kelly’s Bottle House. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. for more information. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. % 702-3725459. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. Now recognized as a state historic site. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles.000. built with marble floors at a cost of $90.
000 a day worth of ore in 1907. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. . the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. Once the largest city in the state. constructed in 1908 for $500. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. Local residents were used as models. when the money ran dry. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down.” a collection of white. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. keeping a population of more than 20. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. however. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. crystal chandeliers. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. life-size.000. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. Today the remains of stone buildings. In the first decade of the 20th century. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. % 702-553-2424. Goldfield Founded in 1902. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. turn-of-the-century frontier community. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce.000 dizzy with gold fever. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. By 1920.
% 702482-3558. and east-west-running US 6. % 702-485-6365. the Central Nevada Museum. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. however. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. including the old post office that is now the local museum. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. 301 Brougher Avenue. Before heading out. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. % 702-482-9676. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. and spend a few hours following its trail. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. . built in 1908 and still in use today.
Gold was discovered near here in 1860. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. call % 702-482-5355. As a judge. A library. with Hawthorne the new seat. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. ore bins. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. which dates to 1906. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. As this is being written. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. In 1911. The museum is open daily. are available by special request. which helped put the state on the map. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. For more information. 9 AM to 5 PM. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. Like many Nevada locales. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. Bartlett House. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. see below under On Foot. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. Admission is free. slide show and research facilities. photographs and exhibits. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts.000 acres. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. Mineral. and the 1907 George A. including a map room. Located on the north edge of town. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. For more on these wonderful regions. power plants. which total more than 260. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. the town exploded – figuratively – and . the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House.
but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. (See On Water. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. Victorian furniture. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center.500 people. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. just three miles from the California border. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. The Mineral County Museum. To see where it all started. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. the town boasted 1. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. The main attraction. a combination truck stop. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. minerals. restaurant and Native American gift shop. rocks. and by 1890 the good times were over.000 residents. Take this road six miles to the town. Admission is free. % 702-945-5142. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. Nevada seat and the Mono . wildlife and fossils. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. At the zenith of its existence. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. The museum is open Monday through Friday. below. Near the northern tip of the lake. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. is nearby Walker Lake. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. fire and railroad equipment. at the corner of 10th and D streets. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth.) Before heading to the lake. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. however. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. % 702-945-3266. 898 E Street. cameras and photography. noon to 4 PM in winter. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. paved road on the right. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays.000. To reach Candelaria. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. located in a long. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. Boats are not recommended. For information on any or all. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. From . The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. pinyon and juniper forests. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. From Caliente. There are 42 campsites. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. All of them offer overnight camping. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. The 2. along with many other events. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. The park.200 feet. set at 5. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. % 702-728-4467. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. native plants and unique rock formations. below). but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. is open year-round.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. but travel is not advised during winter months.
The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. government cover-ups.000. for a walking/driving tour map. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. men in black and all things conspiratorial. Winter travelers might also find snow here. The original building costs totaled $16. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. All told.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. they ran up to $1 million. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. hazy afternoon. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. % 702-962-5215. There are 37 campsites. From Caliente.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. Packed with historic points of interest. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. true believers theorize. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years.
Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. If you’re in the neighborhood. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. including the old mill. sleeping quarters. Ichthyosaurs. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. a bar and cemetery. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. % 702-729-2515.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. selling souvenirs and literature. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. a thought scarier than any little green men. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. or fish lizards. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. The park is open all year.
The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. to NV 884. April. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. mountain lion. From here go seven miles to a junction. July. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. Located in the relatively dry.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. August. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. through Gabbs. Interpretive tours are held in March. the highest point in Nevada at 13. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. For more information. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. To reach the park from Hawthorne. There are numerous access points to the 115. Return the way you came. where desert bighorn sheep.140 feet. June.000 feet in 3½ miles. call % 702-867-3001. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. turn right. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. The trail seems faint at times. up through the sparse forest of .000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. From here. following a stream into Trail Canyon. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. then half a mile east. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. October and November. elk. travel west six miles to NV 773. The trail climbs nearly 2. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. deer. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. The hike begins on the road. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west.
The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. up and up alongside the South Twin River. the trail gains 1. About a mile and a half later. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. pinyon pine and juniper. nine miles from the trailhead. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. limber pine.020-foot Peavine Peak. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. The main trail leads straight ahead. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. Consult Toms Canyon. another narrow. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. About 500 yards beyond the mill. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. The 38. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Pine Creek. .400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. and at higher elevations. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. where it crosses the water several times. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. too. The path descends further. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. USGS quads for Carvers NW.000 acres are covered with sagebrush.361-foot Arc Dome. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080.
which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. After turning west. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. .949 feet above sea level. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. then sharply northwest to the South Summit.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. It was used as a hunting camp 5. Return the way you came. Turn left and head toward the highest point. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. 11. which tops out at 11. The summit trail. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. From Tonopah. which marks the way to Pine Creek.000 years ago. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. is imposing Mount Jefferson. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. is lined with aspen and birch. mountain lion. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. going west. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. In fact. south. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. The high point. literally and figuratively. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. deer and coyote.
with Dry Lake off to the west. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. As you’ll see. The 98. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. Hikers should have maps and a compass.856foot Monitor Peak. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. and the skills to use them. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. rugged country. Elk. To complete a nice loop hike. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. This is remote. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. The main trail continues straight ahead. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). so travel with care. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. set aside in 1989. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. From the trailhead. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. The trail first splits at mile three. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah.000 acres. climbing up the creek drainage.
Wilderness Press. then descending into Ash Canyon. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. Enjoy the views. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. some will lead hikes and photography trips. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. refer to Michael C. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. then continue south two miles back to the campground. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. crosses the water and begins a steep. 1997. .186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. in Echo Canyon State Park. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Once atop the plateau. White’s masterful book. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. % 702-4826286. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. Also close by. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. Meanwhile. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas.
PO Box 65. Nicholas Perchetti. Galvin. PO Box 428. at 9. which. Timberline Outfitters. Box 77206. 89025. Mustang Outfitters. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. (If you pass Millers. Timberline Outfitters. Stahl. . Berg. 27 Smith Gage Road. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. then continues south to a junction. 89049. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. HCR 60. PO Box 168. 89430. Lund Gary Luisetti. Expeditions Unlimited. Smith. % 702-463-4497. leaving a strenuous.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. Grand Slam Safaris. climbing into a small valley. 8½ miles from US 95. 89045.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. 89045. % 702-482-6258. PO Box 1149. Howard.. Yerington Marty S. Mason Valley Guide Service. % 702-283-7797. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Roy Lerg. The road turns east briefly. you’ve gone too far. James S. 89317. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop.108 feet. Just beyond the right-of-way. % 702-964-1207. 89447. 89049. PO Box 162. % 702-964-2145. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. unmarked hike to the summit. Lewis. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. Jr. % 702-482-6422. % 702-465-2598. turn left and head due south. PO Box 725. Round Mountain William A. Moapa Adam R.
Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. Just north of Pine Creek. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. known for abundant wildlife. The other ruins are on private property.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. Manhattan boomed. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. A few dozen people still live in the area. however. and Pine Creek. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. % 702-482-6331. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Belmont saw most of the 2. The Belmont Saloon.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. Continuing north. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. which was first settled in the 1860s. % 702377-2490. is open for business on weekends. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. so keep your distance.000 to construct in 1876. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. For road conditions.
Not only is the water very hot. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). From Pioche. Wilson National Back Country Byway. stay out. then part of Utah Territory. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. Pioneer Territory Mt.2 mile west of Lockes going south. As tempting as a bath might seem. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. . For more information contact the BLM. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. mountain mahogany and aspen. Continuing north. to establish missions. but check on road conditions before you go. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. the fauna changes to ponderosa. Take an unpaved road . Three hot pools are found on two acres here. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. The springs are half a mile away. % 702-482-7800. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. As the scenery becomes more dramatic.
The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. At Oakridge Landing. 13. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. cutthroat and rainbow trout.140-foot Boundary Peak. brown. % 702727-4504. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. 5340 South Oakridge Road. % 702289-4865. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. % 702-727-8276. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. Information Sources For more information and a map. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. Just a mile north of Dyer. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. contact the BLM. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. Two of the best spots are Peavine . so take the necessary precautions before heading out.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump.
with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. % 702-482-6286. picnic facilities and boat ramp.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). After the road peters out. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts.7 miles north of Hawthorne). however. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. In fact. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. . casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. rainbow and brown trout. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. October and November. Covering 37.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west.000 acres. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers.4 miles). The lake is named for Joe Walker. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. Fishing derbies are held in February. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. April.
192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. Hawthorne. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. CA. Contact the refuge office. which are stocked in spring and fall. Kathleen L. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. for details. Classic Anglers. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. 93514. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). while Canada geese. Howe. Brown trout. are the main attraction here. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. write the group at PO Box 867. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. % 702-394-4040. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. but motors are prohibited. Bishop. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Boaters are welcome. 633 Schley Street. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. largemouth bass and white crappie. % 702-725-3417. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. NV 89415. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides.000 acres. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. % 760-872-2533 . about 13 miles south of the confluence. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead.
Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Howard. Timberline Outfitters. James S. 89104. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. Tonopah Stanley R. Stahl. % 702-482-6258. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. Berg. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . PO Box 65. home on the range. Jr.. Galvin. 89447. HCR 60. Suite 9B. The big enchilada is Saddle West. 89049. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. PO Box 725. % 702-964-1207.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. % 702-964-2145. Nicholas Perchetti. 89045. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. Mustang Outfitters. at least temporarily. PO Box 1149. % 702-3721717. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. Mason Valley Guide Service. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. 1220 South Highway 160. The family-style outings. 89045. PO Box 168. % 702-482-6422. Box 77206. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. Timberline Outfitters. Advance reservations are highly suggested. % 702-889-8844. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. 89049.
though. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. $-$$. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. % 702-727-5445. $-$$. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. % 702-727-5100. $. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. % 702-553-2333. including a heated pool. casino and lounge. Highway 160 at Loop Road. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. A lounge with live entertainment. % 702-553-2250. % 702553-2912. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. 604 Main Street. lounge. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. In short. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. $-$$. $-$$. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. which has 30 rooms and a pool. With 110 rooms. There are 60 rooms. % 702-4853431. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. a casino with live 21. was built in 1905. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. along with a pool and honeymoon room. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. % 702-553-2225. The Exchange Club Motel. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. % 800-508-9493. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. US 95 at First Street. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. . $-$$. Don’t worry. $-$$. a convenience store. 1201 South Highway 160. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. $-$$. a restaurant. $. 9000 North 5th Avenue. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. has 32 rooms. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. $-$$. hair salon. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. while the inn offers laundry services. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. 420 West Main Street. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. The other two motels are the El Portal. non-smoking rooms and a pool.
There are 103 rooms. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. location. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. % 702-945-3352. % 702-945-3321. 540 F Street. RV parking and free continental breakfast. pool and free in-room coffee. $. The Best Western Desert Lodge. 1 Cliff House Road. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. a restaurant and bar. $. a restaurant and free coffee. % 702-482-6224. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. a casino. $. lounge with entertainment. It has 94 rooms. 521 North Main Street. % 702-482-9777. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. Even dogs are welcome. has 39 rooms. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. 255 Main Street. If you’re into chains. 1301 5th Street. Dating back to 1908. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. restaurants. 100 North Main Street. $. Some of the larger. with 40 rooms. Just a block away. This place has it all: 75 rooms. $$. $. % 702-482-6291. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. two restaurants. 700 Main Street. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. Location. % 702-482-3511. and the 33-room Clown Motel. the Butler has 25 rooms. The . % 702-945-2444. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. a heated pool and a small play area. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. 100 South Main Street. $. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. has been catering to travelers since 1943. 1100 Main Street. $. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. at very reasonable rates. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. Adjacent to Walker Lake. % 702-482-3577. also has a pool. a Jacuzzi and a pool. 826 Main Street. $. The Jim Butler Motel. % 702482-5920. and the sprawling Station House. including four two-bedroom units. which has 93 rooms. RV hookups. workout equipment. with a restaurant. $. comes highly rated. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. 323 Main Street. arcade and laundry. a casino. $-$$. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. 1402 5th Street. lounge. $$. % 702-482-6202.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. free movies and is close to the convention center. % 702-482-6238. % 702-945-2660.
live entertainment. % 702-945-2544. bars. $$. $-$$. $$. pool. $-$$$. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. % 800-346-7721. . which at last count had 1. a golf course. $. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. pool and spa. $-$$. 965 Sierra Highway. pool and movie theater. bowling alley. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. % 702-945-3316. and the Rocket. on the corner of 5th and J streets. has five rooms. The Casa Blanca. has 67 rooms. % 702-463-2998. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. tennis courts. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. 11 North Main Street. has 700 rooms. various restaurants. $. Jacuzzi. % 702-346-7444. % 800-621-0187. formerly Players Island. % 702-465-2341. movie theater and kids’ play area. including dozens of suites. $-$$. entertainment. % 702-463-2481. which has 14 rooms. fitness center and live music. a 925-seat showroom. restaurants. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. with a 24-hour casino. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. % 702-463-2991. Just west of Smith in Wellington. Jacuzzi. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. % 702-465-2573. family fun center and an airport shuttle. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. $. 390 North Sandhill Road. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. with blueprints for hundreds more. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. pool. which has two non-smoking rooms. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. a pool. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. % 702-945-2573. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. a pool and a hot tub. Jacuzzi. $$. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. $-$$. a lounge. % 800-346-4611. airport shuttle. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. $$-$$$. RV park and four bungalows. 39 North Center Street. To find a quieter environment. 2827 Highway 208. 720 Sierra Highway. $. 694 Sierra Highway. a pair of family-style restaurants. $$-$$$. % 800-896-4567. % 702-945-2143. Run by the Masini family. golf course.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. $$-$$$. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. which has 14 rooms. 301 Mesa Boulevard.900 or so residents.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. the Hawthorne. % 702-465-2959.
450 Front Street.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. % 702-727-0909. a restaurant and bar. which has 22 rooms. % 702-727-6440. % 702-9625404. Besides. Flying saucer parking is out back. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. which has five rooms. 884 A Street. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. No fast food. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. % 702-751-7777. is open 24 hours a day. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. pharmacy and bank. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. 1220 South Highway 160. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. 100 West Stagecoach Road. At Saddle West Casino. the Silver Spur. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. $-$$. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. 100 LaCour Street. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. % 702-727-2404. Stagestop Casino. % 702-727-7777. $. $. Rose Garden. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. % 702-729-2515. % 702-726-3291.99. % 702-962-5551. . % 702-727-7300. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. $. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. $. % 702-726-3106. 601 South Highway 160. $-$$. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. and the buffet starts at $2. has 13 rooms. also have full-service restaurants. % 702726-3777. and welcomes pets.
If you’re in the mood for Mexican. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. % 702-945-2727. 100 North Main Street. also have family-style restaurants. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. The . The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. The Exchange Club. try Happy Buddha. % 702-945-3908. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. has a great $7. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. and Burro Inn. 923 5th Street. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. % 702-945-3320. 785 E Street. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. also has a 24-hour café. % 702482-9777. % 702-463-2481. % 702-553-2368. 540 F Street. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. 1291 5th Street. % 702-945-3321. is the home of two restaurants. % 702-9452994. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. Traditional American and Continental fare. 11 North Main Street. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. % 702-482-6202. % 702-5532225.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. fill the menu. 501 I Street.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. including excellent seafood. open until 9 PM. % 702-945-1700. % 702-553-2111. The Station House. Maggies. % 702-945-5253. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. % 702-4823885. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. you could do worse than El Marques. Yerington Casino West. 348 North Main Street. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. 570 E Street. 1100 Main Street. % 800508-9493. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food.
% 702-4633707. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. is like a blast from the 50s. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. Dini’s Luck Club. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. % 800-621-0187. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. The Mason Valley Country Club. has a 24-hour coffee shop. The Casa Blanca. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. Peavine Campground is set at 6. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. along with the usual buffet. lunch and dinner. 11 North ALT 95. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. 45 North Main Street. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. 111 Highway 208. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. To reach the campground from Tonopah. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. There’s even an indoor workout facility. Carl’s Burgers. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. % 800-896-4567. Two blocks up. % 702-7263194.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. % 800-346-7721. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. % 702-463-2054. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. The Virgin River Hotel. which serves breakfast. serves breakfast. % 702463-2868. satisfying and never-ending. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. % 702-727-2314. % 702-4623300. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. 702-726-3138. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. 2281 West Scales Way. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. It’s a perfect spot for lunch.
To reach the campground from Tonopah. For directions. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7.100foot level. the unpaved road goes south briefly. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness.800 feet in the Monitor Range. above.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. providing access to fishing and hiking. contact the BLM. There are 11 sites set at 6. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. see On Foot. % 702-4826286.700 feet. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. offers sites for $11 per night. The campground is another three miles away. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. % 702-945-3373. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. There is no running water and no fee. From Tonopah. . Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. through Belmont. % 702-687-6100. From here. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. For information. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. To reach the campground from Tonopah.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens.
1997. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. They are listed in alphabetical order. 1993. Suggested Reading . Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Falcon Press Publishing. Frank Amato Publications. Falcon Press Publishing. 1998. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. 1995. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. Henry Holt and Company. published by the State of Nevada. Noonday Press. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. 1995. DeLorme. David Communications. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. American Automobile Association. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. 1996. 1990. 1997. 1993. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. Moon Publishing. American Automobile Association. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. 1994. Basin and Range by John McPhee.
American & Geographic World Publishing. 1969. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Bischoff. La Siesta Press. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. . The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno.. Wilderness Press. 1993. 1995. 1992. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. White. 1997. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Legend and Description by David J. Maturi. The Globe Pequot Press. Falcon Press Publishing.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. 1993. Mojave Books. 1997. Jr. 1997. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Falcon Press Publishing. Stolley. Gem Guides Book Company. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. Clark.
see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 144. 199. price scale. 94-95. 168-169. Las Vegas territory. 89. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). hiking. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 186 Belmont. 156160. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 124 auto racing. 146. special events. 8386. 142. 15-16. events. 102. 2. 48-49. see transportation air tours. 43-44. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. restaurants. Pony Express territory. 125-128. biking. 169. 92-96. camping. 104. 193 Aurora. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 197. 137 Candelaria. see also petroglyphs. 115-116 ballooning. 184. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 193-197. 187-190. restaurants. Elko. Pioneer territory. 179. 54-55. 117-119. Las Vegas area. 27 books. 192 Big Smoky Valley. events. 185. wild. restaurants. 17. Bonneville Salt Flats. Mount Jefferson.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. see transportation Carson City. safety rules. 28. 103. 15-16 bird watching. 17. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. touring. 115. 152. touring. see water sports car rental. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. transportation. 46. 121. 126. Leonard Rock Shelter. 163-164. Pioneer territory. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 15-16. 198. safety rules. 198. 131. 132-133. 120-123. 13. 123. 181-182. Cottonwood Valley. 35. 174 canoeing. 36. 76. hiking. 75-76. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 32. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 164. 119-120. 78. see also camping. 50-52. 200 altitude sickness. 194. specific towns airlines. fishing. Pioneer territory. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. Pony Express territory. 38. pictographs art galleries. 182. 104-107. 118. Reno-Tahoe area. 154 animal life. 13-15. 169-170 Anasazi people. biking. 194. hiking outfit- Index . 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. camping. outfitters. fishing. 91 Barley Creek. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. horseback riding. 132. Reno-Tahoe area. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 85. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 26-27 buses. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 183-184. 181-182 bighorn sheep. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 174-175 Austin. 67-70. 10. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 193. wildlife and bird watching antelope. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 113. touring. 200 Basque people. biking. wagon trips. restaurants. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 144. 199-201. festivals. 78 BLM. 155 boating. 86. 142. 144 backpacking. 77. accommodations. Pony Express territory. 117-118. Lovelock Indian Cave. accommodations. camping. camping. 179. 152. 67 bowling. 135. touring. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 42 burros. 182-183. see also zoos. camping. Ichthyosaur State Park. 49. 187-190. 29. 3135. 187-188 biking. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail.183. 41-43. 10-12. 34-35 Boundary Peak. skydiving. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. 27. 129-130 bungee jumping. Las Vegas. 118. 117. Reno-Tahoe area.
Las Vegas territory. 176. hiking. 155. camping. 170. fishing. 139 cruises. 121-122. camping. 185. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 125. 74 Death Valley National Park. restaurants. mercury warnings. 75 Galena Creek County Park. Camp Winfield Scott. 73. 177. 109. 12. 150-151. 180 Earth Connections. 75. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 93 Davis Creek County Park. Lake Tahoe area. 126-127. Las Vegas area. springfish. 149-150. 97. 169. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 80. Pyramid Lake Fishway. Pioneer territory. touring. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. restaurants. Northumberland Cave. 14 Colorado River. 139140 Ely. 4-5 Gardnerville. 106 diving. Midas. skiing. see events fish. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 161-162. 170-171 Denio Junction. 89. camping. 88. 109 Glacier Trail. Lovelock Indian Cave. Treasure City. 121. 46 Comstock Lode. safety rules. 139. touring. events. 17. 15-16. 110. 125. 143-144. 70. Dunn Hatchery. restaurants. 132-133. 152. 155-156. Rhyolite. camping. Samuel. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 160 Goshute Mountains. 137. Rochester Mining District. 200 Cowboy Country. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. restaurants. 192. 182. Reno-Tahoe area. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 74. 119-120. 168. Jungo. 176. 137. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 78 casinos. touring. hiking. 187-190. 87 Dayton. 116-117. 102-104. 70-71.. Toquima Cave. 126. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. touring. hiking outfitters. 175 climate. accommodations. Cowboy country. 79. 82. 174-175. 178. 117. 188-189 fishing. 172 golf. 108 events: Cowboy country. 190 . 118. sport-climbing ratings. 153 Chimney Springs. camping. 112. auto racing. 167. Reno-Tahoe territory. fishing. 185. 147-148 Eberhardt. accommodations. 174. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 186 Cave Lake State Park. John C. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 98. 12. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 120-121. 6-7 ters. 137. 109. 3. 137. 65 gambling. 157-158. 186 elk. fishing. 163-164. Eberhardt. 120. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 15-16 Fremont. 188-189 Clemens. 83. 109. horseback riding. 119. 131. 142 Great Basin. 112. outfitters. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 29. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 22.5 Cathedral Gorge. Pony Express territory. 138-139. 13-15. 170. 142. 111. 67. 194-195. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 116. 4. special events. Hamilton. Las Vegas area. 77. 179. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 119. 179. 35-36. 179. 115 Gold Center. accommodations. pupfish. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. Gold Center. camping. 124. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. biking. transportation. Candelaria. 125. Lehman Caves. Metropolis. outfitters. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. camping. 171. 127. 122-123. 177. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 44-48. outfitters. 18-19 climbing. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 190-193. 134-135. 75. fishing. 152-155. 43-44. Shermantown. 98 fossils. camping. 100. Pioneer territory. 37-41. 144. 86. restaurants. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. outfitters. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 171-172 Gold Point. hiking. 106. 184. 179. touring. 112 Genoa. 143. 40.
88. 93. fishing. 103 Hamilton. touring. 162. 54. 28. 38. 53-54. 83. 98. 193. events. 125. 86. 146. 36. touring. 43. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 40. camping. 140-141 land. camping. outfitters. restaurants. 162. 149. 166. hiking outfitters. Pioneer territory. 179 Kingston. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. biking. 192. 64. camping. 156. 64. 107. biking. Reno-Tahoe territory. accommodations.Index Great Basin National Park. 83-84. restaurants. 41. Cowboy country. transportation. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 31-35. state. 13-15. 176. touring. 24. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 1. 44 Las Vegas territory. hiking. 78. 80-81 hiking. hiking. skiing. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. Reno. Walley’s Hot Springs. 66. watersports. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 82. air tours. camping. 99-100. touring. 158. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. Nevada. 46. 32-33 Lake Mohave. Las Vegas territory. restaurants. hiking. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 49-50. 3536. Pioneer territory. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 65. 101. 90. 91 information sources. 47 lakes. 75. 132 Lexington Arch. 37-41. 57. 63-66. events. 90 helicopter tours. Pony Express territory. 177 mercury warnings. 47. 186-187. Las Vegas area. 129-131. 141-142. 83. transportation. 150. 41-43. 137 kayaking. 29-31. Las Vegas. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. map. 102. 110-112. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 70 Humboldt National Forest. Reno-Tahoe territory. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 39 history: Cowboy country. 32-33. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 91-92. 152. restaurants. hiking outfitters. touring. camping. balloning and soaring. 45. 48. see air tours Hemenway Park. 148-149 Humboldt River. 198. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. restaurants. boating outfitters. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 79. 20. 77. 149-150. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 151. description of. 188-189. 46. 159. water sports. restaurants. 148-149 jeep tours. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 52-53. camping. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 21-22. 195-196. 82. 55. special events. 78-79 Jungo. 116-117. 1-6 Hoover Dam. outfitters. 50-52. Las Vegas territory. 165-167. 46. 32 horseback riding. 62. 150. 40-41. Pioneer territory. 145-150. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 23-29. 130. snow sports outfitters. 111. Pony Express territory. 60. touring. 120 Incline Village. 57-58. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. hiking. 187 Manhattan. 160. Pony Express territory. 163. 117 hotels. 118 Lone Mountain. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. transportation. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 37-40. outfitters. RenoTahoe territory. touring. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. fishing. 4WD trail. 200-201. horseback riding. 181-187. Kyle Hot Spring. camping. 48-49. 164. skiing. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 127. 119 Index . 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. touring and transportation. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 39. 118. camping. 153. Midas Hot Spring. 106. 112-117.
camping. May Museum and Arboretum. 175. 69.206 n Index seum. 126. 61. Keck Minerals Museum. 8. 34. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. Capitol Building and Museum. 142 Midas. 2. Mark Twain Museum. 139. 23 Overton: touring. 78. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. fishing. Nevada State Library & Archives. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. Nevada Historical Society. 25. 171. 68. Roberts House Museum. Eureka Sentinel Museum. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 61. 158. Liberace Museum. 25. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. camping. Marshall Mint Museum. 189-190 Muir. 61. White Pine Public Museum. 73. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. The Castle. 178. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 127 pictographs. see accommodations motorcycles. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 199 Metropolis. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 25. hiking. Central Nevada Museum. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 25-26. 71. 170. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 107. Fleischmann Planetarium. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. 180 Minden: events. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 153. 34. 135136. 75. 163. 70. 35. Bonneville Speedway Museum. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 10. 2. 188. restaurants. Stewart Indian Museum. 153 Northumberland Cave. 98. touring. 106 nuclear testing. 8182 Mesquite. outfitters. 83. 135. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. hiking. 165 nuclear waste. 165. John. 25. 71. National Automobile Museum. 177. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 200 motels. Lost City Museum. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 80-81 Native American festivals. 71. 73. 199-200. 4. 174. 177. Humbolt Museum. Nevada State Railroad Museum. 26. 69. 109-110. Marzen House Museum. Brewery Arts Center. Wilbur D. 26. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. Clark County Heritage Museum. 173. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 200. 26. 72. 3-4. 167-168 Paiutes. 77. 108. fishing. see biking mountain biking. fishing. 142. 43. 173. horseback riding. 79. hiking outfitters. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 69. Desert Valley Museum. 171. 69. 4. 29. 25. 177. 23. 31. Guinness World of Records Museum. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. accommodations. 34. 68. 2. Lyon County Muserum. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 26. 174. 187 Mojave Desert. 174. 43. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 133. 68. 33. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. The Way It Was Museum. skiing and snowboarding. touring. 193-194. 11 Mosquito Creek. 61 music and theater. 67. Las Vegas Art Museum. touring. 102. 173. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. restaurants. 107. 196197. Western Folklife Center. 103. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 73. Colorado River Museum. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. Nevada State Mu- . 197-198. 199. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. Piper’s Opera House. 69. 175. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 73. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 29 Mount Jefferson. Mineral County Museum. 70-71 mines and mining. 34. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 72-73. 181 Moapa. 73. 134 petroglyphs. 139. 32. 183. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 86. 61. 91. 109. see biking Mount Charleston.
touring. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. fishing. 104. 173 Index . 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. camping. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 185-186. 109 Shoshone people. 153 Sparks. 65 Pony Express territory. 198. water sports. 142. 87. 163-164. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 106 Siegel. 78. 193. 77. 88 Shermantown. 138 rock climbing. 9 Sand Mountain. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 154. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 197 rafting. outfitters. 165-201 plant life. 77-78. hiking. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. see events price codes. transportation. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 123-125. 112. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 12. 197-199. 59-61. 98. Pioneer territory. 79-80. see skiing snowmobiling. 17. 49-50. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 180 Pioneer territory. 53-54. bike. camping. accommodations. hiking. biking. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. Las Vegas territory. 17. RenoTahoe area. camping. fishing. hiking. 9697. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. camping. fishing. see climbing rock hunting. 129-130. snow sports outfitters. 200 temperature chart. 195. 83-84. 76. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 79. 145-146 prostitution. 54. Pony Express territory. 88. see climbing springfish. 146-147. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 193. 144. motorcycle. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 150-151. 98. see mines and mining skiing. 186-187. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 26-27. 17. Benjamin “Bugsy. accommodations. 197. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 143. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park.Index Pioche: accommodations. touring. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. touring. 106 Spooner Lake. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 179 Searchlight. 181. skiing. Las Vegas area. 180. 66. 36. 89-91 skydiving. 113. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 156. 144. 84. hiking. 17. camping. biking. 163. 42. 167. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 143 Rachel. 84-85 swimming. skiing. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). auto. 78. hiking and climbing. 93-94. 91. 144. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 146. biking. 74 races. 9-10. 90 sport climbing. 94 special events. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 114-115 theater. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 187. special events. 76. 80 pronghorn antelope. 117. Reno-Tahoe area. fishing. 76. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. 85. 190. 163. 115.” 4 silver. 89. 160-163. 170 rivers. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. fishing. restaurants. 92-93. restaurants. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 48-49 snowboarding. 54. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 52 pupfish. 179. climbing and hiking. see events Round House Art Gallery. 90 soaring. 169 Pyramid Lake. restaurants. 96-97. 134. 176 rodeos. horse. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 13 Price Lakes. 82. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. touring.
114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. touring. 71-74 Virgin River. 178. Arc Dome Wilderness. 139. fishing. hiking. outfitters. 144. hiking. 159-160. see plant life tufas. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. special events. 25 Topaz Lake. Oxbow Nature Study Area. camping. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Amtrak. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 139-140 Treasure City. Earth Connections. 73. Pioneer territory. Cleve Creek Campground. rental cars. 41. Wilson Canyon. 26-27. 147-148. 176 Yerington: accommodations. restaurants. buses. events. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. 110. 185. horseback riding. camping. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 45. 127. 150. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. Las Vegas territory. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 119-120. High Rock Canyon. Pony Express territory. 151 Wovoka. 79-80. Ely Elk Viewing Area. touring. 199. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. Mark. camping. Lake Mead. 191-192. see transportation transportation: airports. 98. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 67. 196. camping. 190-193. 34-35. Hemenway Park. 179. 32. Pioneer territory. 127. restaurants. 200-201. Table Mountain Wilderness. 20. 164. 167. 174. 151 Wilson Canyon. 112. 39 vineyards. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 80. events. 71. 155 . 191 UFOs. 102. restaurants. 156-157. 193 Walker Lake. 29. 55. 86 Wells: accommodations. Echo Canyon State Park. hiking outfitters. 188-189. 159. 109 trees. 31. 152-155. 176 wineries. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 163. 97. 29-30. outfitters. Santa Rosa Mountains. 44-48. 117 Toquima Cave. hiking outfitters. 62. 111. camping. 187. 176. 168 zoos. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 143. touring. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. Ruby Marsh. 38. 135-137. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 89. 31. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. Jack’s Valley Road. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 62. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. Goshute Mountains. 162. fishing. camping. 75. restaurants. 146. 68. 30-31. 155. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 62. 35. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. Reno-Tahoe territory. 168-169. 193. touring. 117. 163-164. 143. Ruby Mountains. 149. outfitters.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. restaurants. 155. 174 walking. 177. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 182-183. 153-154. 83. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. Winnemucca. 192. 134 Twain. 80-81. 106 trains. 66. 95. 104. 61. touring. hiking. wildlife and bird watching. climbing and hiking. 77-78. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 183-184. 85. touring. Walker Lake. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 76. events. 157. 172. 144. 160-161. 33. 150. water sports. 145-146.
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