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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska.500 and 10. These mammoths. you’ll know better.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. bison. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. that’s good news. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. you can have the whole wild. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. Among the 50 states. According to author John Hart. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. In fact. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. which covers most of Nevada.” and for good reason.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. however. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. pausing on . Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. as the top tourism destination in the US. About 27 million of them. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. half-pound hot dogs. horses. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. Florida. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. For anyone who loves the outdoors. giant sloths. In fact.
2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. fish hooks. wetlands and springs. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. Jedediah Smith. the first European entered Nevada. . like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. hand tools. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. established trade routes.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. The Northern Paiutes. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. shells. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. His party wintered in California. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. In the 12th century. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. In the south. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. Exactly 50 years later. points. followed in Garces’ footsteps. however. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. By about 500 AD. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. Many prime archeological sites. In 1776. including southern Nevada.
Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. which helped open the gateway to the West. then returned east along the route the next year. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. 1864. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. In 1843 and ’44. but the Utah Territory government. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. dominated by the church. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. Nevada became a state on Halloween. continued to oversee Nevada. Eight years later the first wagon train. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. was dispatched to map the area. encountering Pyramid Lake. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. the church established the State of Deseret. John C. who would later become a war hero. and headed over the Sierras. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. Introduction . Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). In 1849. but abandoned it two years later. camping at Las Vegas. and. as it came to be called.History n 3 In the north. In 1830. covering most of Utah and Nevada. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. In 1859. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. In 1845. swelling the population well into five figures. In 1833. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. The Comstock Lode. the Mormons were the first white residents. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. Fremont. DC. By 1857. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. with Brigham Young as governor.
then underground tests for 30 more. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. the Flamingo soon reopened. In 1855. the mother of all lodes. particularly in southern Nevada. In 1874. however. Then in 1966. opened in 1950. Reno and the surrounding areas. Ironically. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. Meanwhile. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. was struck in Virginia City. then picked up again in the early 1900s. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. upscale Vegas. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. chief of the Northern Paiutes. violence escalated. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. commerce and industry. killed two-thirds of them. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. In the teens and ’20s. Warriors under Numaga.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. In 1873. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. later known as the Nevada Test Site. signed a treaty with the federal government. bringing town sites. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. Streets were laid out. Winnemucca. Howard Hughes sud- . An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. Carson City. In 1860. the Big Bonanza. the first true hotel-casino. but was ambushed. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. began making money and the boom was on.000 people in 1960. son of Winnemucca. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. Siegel’s vision. was of a classy. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year.
By 1970. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. are reaping the windfall. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. moving to the region in record numbers. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. DC. Fallon and Mesquite. today there are master-planned communities. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. trappers. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. places like Elko.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. miners. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. however. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. .Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. Winnemucca. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. To many. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. But the explosion has not been without fallout. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. a land dominated by a mobile population. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. and Americans have become moths to the flame. The entire West will be watching what transpires. find enough water. Mom and their 2. How much is too much. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. This time.
839foot Matterhorn. The notion of Nevada as a flat. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. The Colorado River . 13. Near Las Vegas. Wheeler Peak. Fremont in 1844. then disappear into their respective “sinks. The roof of Nevada is 13. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. Named by explorer John C. Here. Nevada even has its own 10. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks.000 feet in the space of a few miles. across a sagebrush-covered basin. hills and uplands. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world.000 feet to nearly 12. Get the idea? After all. gurgle through the northern part of the state. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. down another range.000 feet. the Carson and the Humboldt. dry. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers.063 feet. down a range. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. then up another range. lakes. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. the Spring Mountains soar from 2.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. towers over Great Basin National Park. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. On the other side of the state. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. Yes. In the north. reservoirs and other watery bodies. and so on. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. with nine ranges topping 11. In fact. Depending on who’s counting.
In 1989. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction .The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. the southeastern corner of Nevada. are the only reliable. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. For the greens.500 square miles of western Nevada. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. it’s an uphill climb all the way. natural sources of running water. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. establishing 77. a great inland sea that 50. which empty into Lake Mead from the north.000-acre Great Basin National Park.000 acres. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. Lower and drier. most notably Lake Tahoe. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty.000 years ago covered 8. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. In the 1970s. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. only 65. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. the largest alpine lake in North America. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. in the remote north near Jarbidge.
Death Valley. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). Apart from aspens. 14 national recreation areas. with its tiny. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. The recommendations have been under review for years.000 feet above sea level. At elevations above 6. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. Still. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). the soil supports .000 and 8. such as rabbitbrush. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles.8 n Introduction federal wilderness.000 feet. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. is generally found throughout the state between 5. The squat Utah juniper. horsebrush and shadescale. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. greasewood.
creosote bush has an oily. blooms by night here. along with alder. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. which make up just 1% of the land. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. ponderosa pine. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. prickly pear. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . The rare.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. the official state grass. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. Black bears. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. which is actually a type of yucca. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. At the other extreme. The Joshua tree. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. western white pine.000 feet. hedgehog and barrel. or jimson weed. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. In the mountains. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. the mountain lion. Washoe pine. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. The king of Great Basin vegetation.000 years. bristlecone pine. Above the desert floor. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. lodgepole pine. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. however. hallucinogenic sacred datura. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. up to 5. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. willow and dogwood. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park.
prairie falcon. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. Gambel’s quail. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. In the air over the desert. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. greater roadrunner. also live in the Mojave. while mule deer are abundant. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. Meanwhile. with Lahontan cutthroat. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. help comes from hunters. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. pika. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. kangaroo rats. coyote. beaver. brook. the black widow and brown recluse. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. burrowing owl and canyon wren. chuckwalla. America’s two poisonous spiders. skunk. fox. golden and Dolly Varden . antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. rainbow. seen on Nevada’s license plates. redtailed hawk. The desert bighorn sheep. Blacktail jackrabbits. Snakes include several types of rattlers. Trout are the favorite of anglers. weasel. badger. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. Ironically. brown.
such as visitors bureaus. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. on land. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. on water. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. like almost every other Nevada visitor. culture and most attractive features. covering its history. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. broken down by specific locales. This section also includes sources for expert information. Reno-Tahoe Territory. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . Along with detailed information on where to go. on snow and in the air. A section on Touring follows.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Cowboy Country. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section.
. . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . .12 n Introduction ing chart. . . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . . trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . Trails may be gone. Hiking. fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . Backpacking. . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . forethought and patience. . . . . . . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . Up to $50 per day $$ . . . . Finally. . . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . $50 to $100 $$$ . . $100 to $175 $$$$ .
using the hands.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 .Climbing. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.0 to . For Class 5 routes. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. so help is usually a long way away. As this guide goes to press. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 .14 (and sometimes beyond). occasionally using hands Class 4 . as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be. Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America.0 to . it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly.Adventures n 13 Finally. the most popular among serious rock climbers.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. ranging from . the lower numbers (. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada.Boulder hopping. Class 2 . The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. .Easy hiking. known as the Yosemite Decimal System.
Always take fresh water with you.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. Begin hiking early in the day.10. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. Assistance can take hours or days. climbers enter the realm of myth. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. then amended by subsequent climbers. n n n n n . and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. In the arid country of Nevada. taking into account personal experience. Don’t travel alone. Give them descriptions of yourself. Storms are more common in the afternoon. As with all outdoor activities. By their nature. legend. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Pack spare everything – food. until all holds disappear at . Be aware of conditions. If the plan changes. use common sense before you get into trouble. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. dehydration and lightning. climbing partners. clothing. Beyond that. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. not hard-and-fast rules.
tools. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. spare belts. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. jack. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. preferably one with a large gas tank. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. . They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. extra gas. Not one of those trendy. four-wheel-drive vehicle.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. high-clearance job. water and fluids. Arizona. but a powerful.
This book isn’t big enough to list them all. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. stay put. Do not ration water. n If you find a traveled road. 85096. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. . Mountain biking in Nevada. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. PO Box 39340. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. stay on it. however. Phoenix. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. left out of popular literature. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. drink it as needed. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. n If you have water. AZ. of course. The rest of Nevada. leave a note telling searchers who you are. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. For more information on desert survival. n If water is in limited supply. contact DARES. in wilderness areas). when you left and where you are headed. is more popular than ever. minimize talking and eating. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness.
there are all types of sky-high adventures.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Fishing. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. And where there are tourists. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. and gigantic Lake Mead. the gem of the Sierras. Ballooning. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Soaring Where there is Vegas. lakes and reservoirs. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. Many streams. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. Meanwhile. there are tourists. but take extra care. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. At these higher elevations. Skydiving. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe.
These storms are known to appear with little warning. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. Laughlin. Summer and early fall can be blistering. Leave the high altitudes as well. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. Flashfloods are the predictable result. but despite the obvious danger. although they can occur at any time of year. get out of lowlying areas. throwing rain. For those who like to watch. temperatures above 110° are common. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. In the Great Basin.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. on the Colorado River. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. If thunderstorms threaten. . In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains.
Bureau of Land Management. Ogden. 1263 South Stewart Street. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. Great Basin National Park. Carson City. Carson City. Intermountain Region. % 801-625-5182. 324 25th Street. % 702234-7331. see the listings that accompany each chapter. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. In the mountains. too. NV 89520. NV 89502. www.com.travelnevada. 84401. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. 1300 South Curry Street. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. % 702-687-4384. For information on specific locales. % 702-688-1500. % 702-785-6500. NV 89712. NV 89710. 1100 Valley Road.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. % 702-687-4219. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. Reno. rainy and occasionally snowy. NV 89311. UT. . basin winters can be chilly. windy. US Forest Service. Nevada Division of Wildlife. Capitol Complex. Nevada Department of Transportation. 850 Harvard Way. Baker. % 800-NEVADA-8. Nevada Division of State Parks. Reno. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. In the north. In southern Nevada. Nevada Commission on Tourism. Carson City. NV 89703.
Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. cheap food. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure.000-year-old petroglyphs. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. closer. . the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. in plain view of the casinos. lounge shows – and recently. try hiking to an 11. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts.000-foot peak. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. Inside the city limits. both prehistoric and otherwise. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
features work by students. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. % 702-895-3011. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. Dedicated to Mr. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. Admission is $4. $3. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities.50 for seniors. % 702-798-5595. Ham Concert Hall. giant. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . The museum is open Monday through Friday.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. actual cosmopolitan. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. Just off the glittering Strip. $4. faculty and invited artists.95 for adults. 1 PM to 5 PM.95 for seniors and students. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The tax-deductible admission is $6.95 for adults. Seasonal streams. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. is the Liberace Museum. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. Southeast of the Strip. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. % 702-895-3381. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. % 702-363-1921. but no less extravagant. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Showmanship. 9 AM to 9 PM. % 702-895-3893. Yes. 10 AM to 5 PM. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. Sunday. call % 702-895-3801. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. 8 AM to 5 PM. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route).
The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. The restaurant and bar are open daily. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. The park is open daily. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. the road to Mt. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. 7 AM to dusk. Today there is a restaurant. Charleston. The park is open daily. trail rides and a “real” Western town. The admission is $5 per vehicle. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. The park is open daily. 8 AM to 11 PM. wife of a German munitions tycoon. saloon. 8 AM to 5 PM. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. % 702-875-4191. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. (See below. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds.) The best time to take the 13-mile. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. % 702-875-4141. later during summer months. % 702-486-5413. 8 AM to sunset. Back on US 95. petting zoo. 5 PM in the winter. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. have been unearthed here. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. one-way loop drive is early morning. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. under Adventures on Foot. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. With structures dating back to 1864. Admission is $4. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157.
% 702-872-5408. % 702-646-3401. under On Wheels. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. (See below. At the northern edge of the reservation. (See below. see below under On Snow. (See below. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. and its 1.) Pitch a tent. elevation 11. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. % 702385-2SKI. The 1. under On Foot.918 feet.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. (See below. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. under Camping. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. % 702-872-7098. In the winter. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. Charleston Hotel. Charleston Loop. 17-mile. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. % 702-872-5500. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. the Mt. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. Charleston Lodge.) After the hike. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. Bighorn sheep.000 vertical feet of runs. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. Nevada’s state animal. completing the Mt. under Adventures and Camping.) . For ski rental and shuttle bus information. desolate valley.
% 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . Airlines Air 21. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA.
% 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-GO-VALUE .
overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. % 702-294-1888. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. 3150 Paradise Road. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 444 Hotel Plaza. stopping downtown. % 702-455-7955. On the north side of Boulder City. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. Call % 800USA-RAIL. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. Did it work? Judge for yourself. 711 East Desert Inn Road. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. NV 89109. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. Gray Line Tours. NV 89109.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. $1 for seniors and children under 16. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. Admission is $1. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. 1830 South Boulder Highway. . The museum is open daily. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. % 800-332-5333.50 for adults. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. % 702-735-1616.
32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. boating and diving. for information on camping. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. 500 South Boulder Highway. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. 660 thick at the base. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards.) Be sure to heed the . The cost is $5 for adults. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. Hoover Dam took 5. All of 726 feet high. Hoover also created Lake Mead. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. head back toward Boulder City. fishing. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. $2. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. Las Vegans. (See On Water below. 89105. swimming. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. and 45 feet thick at the top. Phoenix and Los Angeles. % 702-293-2034. Children under 10 are free. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. % 702-293-8907. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. 100 Nevada Highway. 89005. % 702-565-8591. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West.
Go straight to reach Henderson. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. % 702-293-6180. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. % 702-397-2088. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. Beyond here. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. which rests on the Virgin River. explain the geology and forces of erosion. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. From the visitor center.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). a public swimming and boating area. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. nearly five miles off the highway. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. Back on Nevada 167. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. Just beyond the bay. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. . The displays in the visitor center. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. thank you.
constructed his Riverside Casino. South of here is camping. bar and bait shop. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. Nevada’s record-high temperature. % 800-46-4584 . % 520-754-3399. The museum is open Monday through Friday. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. under Adventures.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. on Lake Mojave. % 702-297-1464. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. 355 Highway 95. % 702-297-1682. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. the town was a gold. 9 AM to 1 PM. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. % 520-754-3272. 9 AM to 5 PM. Admission is a $1 donation.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. see below. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. East of Searchlight 14 miles. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. in Bullhead City. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. (For details on all three.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. Named for a brand of matches. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. Saturday. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina.000 visitors a month. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. with motel. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. relives those days. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. % 520-754-3628. a campground and marina. 125°. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. Arizona. % 520-754-4606. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. Don Laughlin started here with a motel.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. campground and fishing and swimming spots.
Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. In Laughlin. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. % 800-227-5254. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. % 702-798-6405. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 702-876-3380. % 800-227-5245.Special Events n 35 Reno Air.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. % 310-448-1822. host- . % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. May is the busiest month. 1555 South Casino Drive. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. as many as 6. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 800-736-6247 United Express. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 800-331-1212 Budget. Special Events February In February.
% 702-870-1221. August In August. Another balloon festival. take place in Boulder City. % 702-293-2034. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. % 800-637-1006. % 702-457-2797. to town. . the Parade of Lights. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-4541212. % 800-227-5245. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. October Art in the Park. % 702-293-4857. % 702-293-1611. % 702434-0848. also takes place in October. to the waters of Lake Mead. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. % 702-386-3926. % 702687-5777. takes place in Vegas. blows in. a three-day balloon rally. Later in the month. % 702-457-5775.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. % 702-452-8066. % 702-898-6565. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. the Las Vegas Classic. to the campus of UNLV. % 702-8953900. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. floats into Laughlin. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. Navaho and Mojave peoples. and the National Finals Rodeo. % 702-2939256. the International Black Heritage Festival. a confluence of Southern Paiute. to downtown. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. % 702-631-7000.
Red Rock attracts free climbers. especially in winter months. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. so chalk often stays put for months.12a). the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. At nearby Willow Springs. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. Stratocaster (5. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. Crimson Chrysalis (5. Graveyard Waltz (5.11b). so take extra precautions when adventuring here.11).11). With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. To the west. while nearby Cloud Tower (5.11d) offers more advanced routes. Utah.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. is only 35 minutes from the Strip.9).12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. Sheep Trail (5. in fact. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. is to mountain bikers. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains.11). Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels.8). The Choad Warrior (5. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. The area gets only four inches of rain a year.11+).9) has 1. At the end of a 90-minute approach. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. Other routes in- . Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. Chicken Eruptus (5.
published by the American Alpine Club.000 feet in four miles. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. ending at a small dam and the spring. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash.918 feet. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted.6). The 3.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. toward a ridge at 11. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. See Outfitters. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon.8) and Eagle Dance (5. & For more information.10 or 5. At the aforementioned fork. consult the Bible of local climbers. to savor the 300-mile views.12). page 41. The South Loop Trail. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. 17 miles round-trip. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. gaining 3. Following the fork. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. an easy six-mile round-trip. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. About seven miles from the visitor center.000 feet. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. The trail switchbacks time and again. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. Chockstone Press. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. Rainbow Buttress (5. . Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow.000 feet. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. elevation 11.
Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. thunderstorms and snow. Mountain T Ranch. the trail climbs 1. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. For trail information and weather and safety updates. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. covering two miles and gaining 1. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. gaining 1. Beginning on a dirt road. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas.000 feet into the northeastern sky. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098.4 miles. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle.000 feet above the desert. contact the US Forest Service. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes.000 feet to a saddle. Never take these altitudes lightly. At lower elevations.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. . they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. To the northwest. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center.
3557 South Valley View Boulevard. Sports & Adventure Tours.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. 89137. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. outlines the easiest route. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. % 702-364-8687. turn right. Stay below the northern peaks. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. 89124. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. % 702-596-2953. Bruce Grubbs. climb a gully to reach a ridge. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. % 702-434-3388. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. Las Vegas. . which is marked by a post. 89180. % 702-254-5604. Climb northward up the slope. Las Vegas. Suite 4. Falcon Press Publishing. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. HCR 33. PO Box 80875. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. then go northwest to another plateau. heading for the northernmost outcropping. % 702-223-2176. Las Vegas 89117.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. Rocky Trails. ascending northwest. and park at the end of the road. PO Box 1. go 6.2 miles. Just south of this outcrop. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. PO Box 371324. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. % 888-86ROCKY.
% 702-254-1143. % 702-383-0838. Peak Sports. Desert Rock Sports. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. 89132. Cowboy Trail Rides. 617 Hoover Avenue. % 702-798-6565. can arrange a covered wagon trip. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. The trails in Cottonwood Valley.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. % 702362-7177. Desert Outfitting. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. Wagons West. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. At mile post 17. % 702-875-1978. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. Silver State Old West Tours. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. % 702387-2457. % 702-2567433. PO Box 19210. % 702-458-8870. Las Vegas. Armed . 4065 East Patrick Lane. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . however.6 mile to a dirt road. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. % 702-649-6819. Hahn’s World of Surplus. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. % 702-252-7114.
turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. Turn right. scanning for a cairn on the left. A double track soon appears on the right. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. For a tamer road trip. 4765 Vegas Drive. Las Vegas. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. flying downhill and then up to another road. % 702-647-5000. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. contact the Bureau of Land Management. a six-mile loop. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. make a quick right and head downhill. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. . After beginning another climb. zoom downhill to the fork. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. go to the next intersection. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. PO Box 26589. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. Turn right. heading uphill. turn left to another intersection and turn right. and pump uphill. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. turn right. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. NV 89126. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. For a more challenging excursion. Go left here. before heading out. At the road. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. Take this until you reach a double track. Head downhill. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass.
Turn left to return to US 15. Downhill Bicycle Tours. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. Escape the City Streets. 16 Cottonwood Drive. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. % 702-451-9586.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. % 702-646-3401. Ski Chalet. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. 7934 Cadenza Lane. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. . 4503 West Sahara Avenue. Las Vegas Bikes USA. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. % 702-642-2453. R&R Cycling. % 702-252-8077. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. % 702-8978287. the byway forks. % 702-596-2953. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. % 702-876-8687. At about the 10-mile mark. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out.
maps and more information on backcountry byways. % 702-380-6969. Las Vegas. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. is on the premises. % 888-REELRIO. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. % 702-646-8800. crystal-clear hotel pool. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. Suite B. % 702-454-5555. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. 4765 West Vegas Drive. It begins. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. 89101. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. . Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. % 702-796-9355. Rebel Adventure Tours. Old West Territory Tours. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. 2810 South Highland Drive. 3700 Flamingo Road. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. an avid angler for more than 50 years. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. 8 AM to 11 AM. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. of all places. For details. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. 713 East Ogden Street. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours.
Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). % 800-34-SCUBA. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. instruction and gear. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. peregrine falcons and even flamingos.to three-days notice is required. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. .Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. Thomas. powerboats and cruisers. flows into Lake Mead. Off Nevada 167. jet skiing. about three miles across at its widest point. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. Forever Resorts. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns.) Swimming.500-acre ranch in Utah. water skiing. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. and two. sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. meals and overnight lodging for $449. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. largemouth bass and trout. offering professional advice. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. For details. % 800-2555561. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. Boulder Beach. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. (See below. The expert staff is available seven days a week. rents houseboats. under Boating Outfitters. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River.
particularly near cliffs. % 702-565-8958. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. PO Box 62465. Near Laughlin. % 702-252-7114. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. The cost is about $65 per person. Return transportation is provided by bus. % 702-2931190. % 800-696-RAFT. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702-754-3245. Lake Mead Cruises. % 702-293-6180.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. 89102. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. Calville Bay Resort. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. PO Box 61235. PO Box 100. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. 89124. offers trips from January through November. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. HCR 30. . 322 Lake Shore Road. 89006. Las Vegas. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Lake Mojave Farther south. is the local fishing and boating hub. 89006. Las Vegas.
Sunset Bait & Tackle. Clearwater Flyfishing. % 702565-0696. % 702-5659111. PO Box 29279. % 702-388-1022. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. % 800-228-9825. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. Laughlin. Overton. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. % 702-459-2080. % 702297-1464. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Overton. Laughlin River Tours. % 702-437-9283. 1450 Newberry Drive. % 702-3944000. Fiesta Queen Cruises. % 702-564-5660. AZ. Overton Beach Marina. 89028. Tom’s Water Skiing. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. 89040. 89029. 520-758-6242. Bullhead City. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. . % 702-452-8299. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. 4290 Boulder Highway. % 702-433-3263. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. 89040. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. PO Box 29279. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina.
Hackett Bungy. % 702-5657583. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. Karen Jones. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. With commercial balloon tours. % 702-871-1399. % 702-434-0848. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. 1500 Palomino Drive. 810 Circus Circus Drive.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. % 702-385-4321. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. . held every October at Silver Bowl Park. % 702-565-8396. 3800. % 702-564-1558. however. 68 Mallory Road. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. noon to 9 PM. complete with guided ground tours and meals. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. 161 East Rancho Drive. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. Jim Goff. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. ext.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. Saturday until midnight.J. Utah. HB Fishing Guide Service. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. A jump is $59. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. Even more memorable. Henderson Bill Spellman. The company claims more than 500. citing growing noise problems. % 702-451-4004. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. Arizona and Zion. The platform is open Sunday through Friday.
3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. Heli USA. Sundance Helicopters. Jean Airport. % 800-634-6851. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. Eagle Canyon Airlines. 200 Convention Center Drive. 89005. 89109. % 800-446-4584. #115-200. 3275 Rosanna Street. % 800-8-SKYDIV. Scenic Airlines. Web site www. Air Vegas Airlines. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon.com. % 800-255-7474. % 800-359-8727. % 702-877-1010. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. % 702-385-2SKI. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. 241 East Reno Avenue. Jean. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. Boulder City. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Skydive Las Vegas. % 702-736-0013. Las Vegas Airlines. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. PO Box 19629. % 702-293-1860. NV 89019. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . % 800-634-6377. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. D&R Balloons. King Airelines. % 800-535-4448. Set at a base elevation of 8. % 702-221-9199.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. NV 89117. 806 Buchanan Street. 2705 Airport Drive.ultimateballoonadven. % 800-216-8330. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. Las Vegas. Las Vegas. 806 Buchanan Street.
But somehow. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. All they do is take up space. The place was once part-owned by in- .000-room MGM Grand.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. it seems. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. over 100.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. After all. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. are booked solid on weekends. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. % 702-385-5200. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. Above all. luring 200. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. HO TE L Many hotels.000 techies to Sin City. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. % 800-272-7426. even behemoths like the 5. 600 East Fremont Street. 2395 North Rancho Road. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. $-$$$. % 702-385-1664.000 visitors. $-$$. For more serious snow. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. if possible. % 702-646-0008. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. 18 East Fremont Street.
Across the street is the green giant. South of here. dominate the Strip. who built the first casino resort. % 702-731-7110. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. Monte Carlo. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. $$-$$$$. 1 Main Street. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . % 702-386-2110. New York is out there.037 rooms. and New York. $$-$$$. however. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. way out there. has 1.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. $$-$$$$. The Golden Nugget. $$$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. $$$$$. % 702-791-7171. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. Caesars Palace. $$-$$$$. 3000 Paradise Road. New York. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. % 702-385-7111. 128 East Fremont Street. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the Flamingo. If staring at wealth is your thing. The Mirage. The movie Rainman was shot here. % 702-3821600. % 702-732-5111. the young upstarts. % 702-740-NYNY. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. Down the street. New York. the MGM Grand. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. % 702-894-7111. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. $-$$. across from the Fashion Show Mall. is a crowd-pleaser. % 702-740-NYNY. Next door is the Island’s big sister. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. The faux volcano. Even by Vegas standards. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. $-$$. % 702-385-4011. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. 202 East Fremont Street. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. 129 East Fremont Street. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. The Four Queens.
% 702-875-4400. % 702-735-1616.000. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. has 2. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. . contrary to popular belief. On the outskirts of Vegas. $-$$$. too. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. while Bellagio will boast 3. In the Spring Mountains. which eliminates Reno. $-$$.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. Charleston Resort. but don’t count on that for long. % 702-872-5500. % 800-634-3988. At this book goes to press. TIP Laughlin For the most part. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. positively sedate with its 5. $$-$$$$.500 rooms. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. set at 7. % 702-262-4555. Charleston Hotel.000 visitors a month and climbing. three Motel 6s. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. % 702-872-5408. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. the Mt.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Bonnie Springs Motel. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. $$-$$$$.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers.
sports a railroad theme. $-$$. After a few meals at most of these troughs. while the Colorado Belle. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. % 702-733-3111. and very expensive. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. At the Flamingo Hilton. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. and Harrah’s. Hamada. % 702-298-2535. % 702-891-7374. in the Las Vegas Hilton. 202 Fremont Street. 1650 Casino Drive. classy Hugo’s Cellar. $$$$. % 702-298-2453. $-$$$. % 702-891-7337. To really dine UPtown. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. % 702-298-2214. the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-298-4600. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. 2100 South Casino Drive. On the Strip. opened in 1990. The Edgewater. Emeril’s. Andiamo. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. 3700 West Flamingo Road. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. % 702735-8686. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals.500 rooms. % 702-298-7111. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-298-5111. % 702-385-5016. while the Golden Nugget. contact the Chamber of Commerce. 2300 South Casino Drive. 1900 South Casino Drive. % 702-732-5111. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. 401 South 6th Street. % 702-385-4011. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . % 702-298-4000. Off the main drags. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. Andre’s. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. $-$$. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. % 702-298-4200. Nearby. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. 2000 South Casino Drive. 2900 South Casino Drive.000 rooms. Downtown at the Four Queens. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. The Ramada Express. Café Michelle. 1350 East Flamingo Road. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $-$$$. % 702-252-7777. however. has 1.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. offers 2. Eurasian mélange. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. and Gatsby’s. both at the MGM Grand. An excellent buffet. $-$$$. serves upscale Italian fare. 2121 South Casino Drive. $-$$. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. % 702-3807711.
. % 702-2984600. Near the end of Nevada 157. as the name implies. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. is the oldest restaurant in the city. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. 308 West Sahara Avenue. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. % 702-382-1644. % 702733-8899. % 702-383-0007.000 and 8. % 702-794-0700. % 702-384-4470. 3900 Paradise Road. Fong’s.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. For a Latin taste. Kyle Canyon. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. Charleston. All five campgrounds have piped water. 2504 East Fremont. Suite Z. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. although the Lodge. Chin’s.400 feet. 4455 Paradise Road. while moderately pricey. The elevation here ranges between 7. For satisfying American favorites. in the shadow of Mt. is the most popular Chinese place in town. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. Phillip’s Supper House. % 702-873-5222. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. call % 702-873-8800. % 702-693-5000. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. % 702-298-2242. For information. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. so be prepared for extreme weather. Chicken is the house specialty. The Green Shack. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. serves hip. % 702-363-1921. which. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. serves fine steaks and seafood. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. seven days a week. having opened in 1932. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel.
% 520-754-3272. % 520-7544606. For information. On the north shore. call % 702-646-3401.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. north of town on Lake Mojave. Calville Bay has 80 sites. On the Virgin River to the north. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. Moving north from Boulder City. Las Vegas Territory . Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. % 702-397-2088. Across the river from the Strip. In Valley of Fire State Park. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. For information on all five locations. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. To the east of Vegas. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. there’s Boulder Beach. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park.
Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. At the heart of this region. Las Vegas. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. the largest alpine lake in North America. just east of the California-Nevada border. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters.000 feet. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. the city of Reno is the . the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. With a surface elevation of more than 7. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. Rose resorts. In the winter. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. Reno. The Truckee River. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. and for good reason.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. Of course. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. Heavenly and Mt.
which meanders – sometimes wet. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. an ancient. meanwhile. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. North of Pyramid Lake. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Farther east of Carson City. Farther south. Washoe Lake State Park. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. where everyone expects Ben. 8. The Carson River. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. Just south of Carson City. Today this mirage-come-true. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. on the shores of Washoe Lake. The place dates back to 1851. . The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. are walks back in time. About 30 miles north of Reno. Fort Churchill.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. Pyramid Lake. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise.
which hosts special events in warmer months.H. Like Vegas. the city continues to grow rapidly. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. From Carson City. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. % 800-FOR-RENO. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. North Virginia Street. or at least slow. for a schedule. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority.W. H. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. From here. No. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. and in 1859 C. In 1863. In 1852.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. there isn’t a glass pyramid. From Reno. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater.
the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. . but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. From a historical point of view.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. this is it. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop.
it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. % 702-688-1190. On the northern outskirts of the city. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. (See below under On Foot. the National Automobile Museum. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. When arms get tired. a nifty historical theme park. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. 1502 North Washington Street. including black bears and kit foxes. houses a theater and telescope. % 702-334-2600. Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-7855961. has been at that location since 1946. The staff welcomes visitors daily. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. the campus of the University of Nevada. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. houses one of the world’s best collections. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. About 10 minutes north of the university. And the Keck Minerals Museum. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. % 702-333-9300. Fleischmann Planetarium. On the suburban south side of Reno. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. April through October. but call first for hours. is a well-known. is also located here. 1650 North Virginia Street. On the north side of the city. Great Basin Adventure. To get there. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. 10 South Lake Street. 300 North Center Street. 1265 Deerlodge Road.) The Wilbur D. % 702-788-3773. % 702-784-4528. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. turn right. % 702-969-3111. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. Animal Ark Nature Center. The Nevada Historical Society. May Museum and Arboretum. % 702784-4812. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. boasts three treasures.
Delta Air Lines. % 702-882-3375. Greyhound Lines. % 800-453-9417. Delta Connection-Sky West. Avis. Enterprise. Southwest Airlines. % 800-235-9292. % 800-CAR-RENT. Canadian Airlines. % 800-527-0700. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. Reno Air. % 800-221-1212. TWA. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. % 800-241-6522. % 800-218-8777. America West Airlines. % 800-225-2525. K-T Services. % 800-654-7037. % 702-328-6400. % 800-654-3131. Alaska Airlines. . % 800-221-2000. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. No Stress Express. TriStar Airlines. % 800-231-2222. Thrifty. Lloyd’s International. % 800-736-6247. Dollar. % 800-4-SHUTTL. % 800-426-7000.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-325-8007. % 800-331-1212. Budget. Hertz. % 800-367-2277. Airlines Air 21. % 800-435-9792. National. Northwest Airlines. United Airlines. If you don’t have a car. % 800-800-4000. % 800-359-2472.
in his journal Roughing It. Reno. In reality. NV 89505. NV 89502. respectively. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. the waters are now finding friends in high places. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. % 702-329-2936. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. control erosion and acquire open land. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . local. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. Reno. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. a marvelous intermingling of water. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. All told. 4590 South Virginia Street.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. % 800-FOR-RENO. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. trees and sky. but the future of the Basin itself. is a study in contrast.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. 405 Marsh Avenue. In 1861. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. rock. provides an interesting mix of adventures. % 702-686-3030. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. At press time. restore forest and watersheds. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. year-round outdoor playgrounds. 98 Colony Road. Fortunately. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. restrooms and picnic areas. But in between them. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. Three miles south of Incline Village. stands out amid the pines. $5. called Diver’s Cove. Viewed from the highway. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. The north end of the beach. Admission is $8. with its full slate of running water. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. is well-known to snorkelers. along the eastern shoreline. (See below. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. % 702-849-2511. Reno-Tahoe Territory .50 for kids. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. under On Foot. The park. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. % 702-831-0691. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe.) Up the twisting NV 431. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore.50 for adults.776 feet. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. open May through November. is a welcome respite. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. % 702-831-0494. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. After the buzz of the ranch. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. at 10. The beaches are open daily. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side.
% 916-583-9048. offices and shops. This is the home port of the Dixie II. The price for such sloth is $10. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. also offers excursions. % 702588-3000. 96151. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. % 702-588-4591. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. a nature trail circles the lake. CA. Sailing. Stateline. Every summer. The day-use fee is $5. horseback riding. PO Box 7139. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. under Adventures and Accommodations. For information. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. then into the broad Washoe Valley. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. under On Snow. % 702588-3508. PO Box 16299. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. under On Snow). (See below. No bottles are allowed on the beaches.250 feet in five minutes. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. $6 per child. May through November. Booming in the winter (see below. NV 89449. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. At Tahoe Village. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. restaurants. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. (See below. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . South Lake Tahoe. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore.50 per adult. canoeing. % 800-AT-TAHOE.) For the unmechanized. condos.
Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. % 702-849-0201. off NV 429. the boom rolled in at full throttle. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. under Adventures. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. In November. % 702-687-4319.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. one mile south of Washoe City. About 30 miles south of Reno.” On Halloween in 1864. The original owners. and on weekends between May and October. 1851. Bowers Mansion County Park. 87 and 98). US 395 slides southwest. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. When the Comstock Lode. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. site of Washoe Lake State Park. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . the world’s largest silver strike. a hunt that lasted 20 years. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. During the wet season. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. pages 83. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City.000 acres. Camping. was hit a year later in Virginia City. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. eventually lost their silver fortune. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. About 15 miles south of Reno. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. (See below. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. camping and hiking (see below. Washoe Lake. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. Washoe Lake covers about 3. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. boating. the mansion and all its furnishings. Bowers Mansion. windsurfing. The park’s centerpiece. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek.
The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. 600 North Carson Street. 101 North Carson Street. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. Located in the Carson City Mint building. excepting state holidays. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. in fact. It’s so open. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. Unlike most Western capitals. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. % 702-884-3450. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. The Capitol Building & Museum. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. Open Monday through Friday. The library contains the original state constitution. Call for schedules and pick-up points. Admission is $3. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. % 702687-5030.” In fact. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. % 702-687-4810. 100 Stewart Street. . which was opened in 1886. Headquartered in nearby Minden. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. yearround. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. the Capitol is open daily. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. exhibits of native fauna. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. Just east of the Capitol. % 702-687-5160. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. the Nevada State Library & Archives.
The Stewart Indian Museum. Charles-Muller Hotel. Admission is $2. That classic journal. The Roberts House Museum. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. Bliss Mansion. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. The St. The Orion Clemens House. 448 West King Street. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. train rides are extra. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. The building now houses a live theater. % 702-887-2174. $2 for kids.50. 1207 North Carson Street.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. 302 South Carson Street. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. and Bender House (1874). The museum is filled with period furniture. books and permits for the surrounding area. the Carson City Brewing Company. % 702-826-2766. Admission is $2. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. Two blocks north. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. Admission is $4 for adults. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . Roughing It. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. On the suburban south side of Carson City. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. 502 North Division Street. % 702-884-2226. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. % 702-882-1808. The staff can provide trail maps. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. % 702-883-1976. 5366 Snyder Avenue. The office is closed Sundays. 813 North Carson Street. 2180 South Carson Street. Samuel. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. 1536 South Carson Street. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. was named for its original occupant. % 702-687-6953. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879.
. May through October.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. Genoa Bar. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. where he is buried. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. 3. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. saunas. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. 1900 South Carson Street. Daily admission is $12. NV 89701. first opened to tourists in 1862. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. % 702-782-4325. Before the school closed in 1980. now long gone. lies Genoa. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. at the foot of the Carson Range. opened in 1863. May through October. % 702-687-7410. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. Across the street. Up the street. As of presstime. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. to Genoa. the first permanent white settlement in the state.000 students had walked its halls. California. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. Carson City. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. The museum is open daily. weight room and tennis courts year-round. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. 2001 Foothill Road. The place saw Nevada’s first house. % 702-782-8155. Guests can enjoy the water. The roots go back to 1851. Walley’s.
valleys. Just down US 395. Gardnerville in 1879. circus items. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. including Western art and portraiture. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. About three miles south of Gardnerville.200acre beauty set at 5. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. 1477 Highway 395. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. Housed in the 1915 high school building. their sweat. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. resting precariously . and their ghosts still walk this landscape. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. In Gardnerville. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. Beyond NV 341. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. % 702-266-3343. where it intersects with NV 341. % 702-782-2555.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. The otherwise barren hills. Leaving Carson City. % 702-782-3133. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. and their spirit built the Silver State. boxing memorabilia. a 1. Finally. the highway hits Topaz Lake. Their riches. Minden was founded in 1904. 1440 Highway 395. of all places. about eight miles south of Carson City. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. Virginia City. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. which climbs up a narrow. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view.
the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. Today. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street.000 lived in Virginia City. % 702-847-0757. Here. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. Admission is $3.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. leave regularly. At the south end of town. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. .72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. more than 15. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. May through October.000 a ton in silver. Admission prices range from donations to $3. Not recommended for claustrophobes. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. % 702847-0975. and within four years. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. underground mine tours. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. The Comstock Lode had been struck. Up C Street. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. is a looming. The building is open daily. The Marshall Mint Museum. % 702-847-0777.
is open daily. Reno-Tahoe Territory . The memory of Samuel Clemens. % 702-847-9394. % 702-847-0525. Open daily. The Way It Was Museum. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. % 702847-0275. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. lives on in two buildings. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. % 702-8470333. June through October. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. complete with ornate chandeliers. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. Finally. for a ride into yesterday. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. windswept plateau. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House.50. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. % 702-8470830. After she was murdered in 1867. including an old jukebox and player pianos. The headstones and gravesites. is definitely not for the puritan. a room in the basement of a saloon. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. 3.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. Admission is $2. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. Its extravagant interior. % 702-847-0766. % 702-847-0454. Mark Twain’s Memories. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. Admission is $2. has a more eclectic collection. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. The Mark Twain Museum. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that.
74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. After another 20 miles. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. including Odeon Hall. % 702-673-1150. wild horses. or mustangs. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. Past the intersection with NV 431. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. After about eight miles. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. There is also a developed campground. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. little more than a few walls remain. appears in Palomino Valley. number about 30. The Byway’s terminus. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. % 702-577-2345. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. Today. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. % 702-847-0311.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. then exit at NV 445. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. Wild burros are also distributed through the center.
the Pyramid Lake Fishway. % 702-476-1156. this is the place to do it – unless. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. nine-mile-wide watering hole. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. boat ramp. Another 25 miles north via paved. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. Spreading north and east. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. boating and fishing are extra. A reservation was formalized in 1874. continues to surround the lake. of course. Just north of the marina. From Nixon. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . reaching the hamlet of Gerlach.182 feet) to the west. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. site of the ranger station. the road passes Wino. Fremont. or dry lake bed. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. according to artifacts found in local caves.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. the world’s largest playa. campground. Nearby. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles.000 BC. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. Camping. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. % 702-547-0187. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. Today. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. store and museum. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. thus christening the 27-mile-long. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. Tribe members administer recreation activities. They will provide directions and hours of operation. since at least 9. If losing yourself is your goal. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui.
Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. tow chain. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. Again. birds of prey. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. % 503-947-3315. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. preparedness is imperative.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. spare tire. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. on 575. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. TAKE CARE In this region. and carry enough water. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. A shovel. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. even with one. about one mile south of NV 140. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. songbirds. Besides antelope. Help can be a long way away. caution and common sense are key to traveling. . then head north 31 miles to NV 140. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter.
welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. a rolling custom car show. In Reno. % 702-882-1283. % 702-329-3877. Night Curves. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. with food. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. bills itself as the “Wildest. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. % 702-782-2211. The Way It Was Rodeo. % 702-329-7469. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. water. In Gardnerville. is held in Sparks. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. % 702-882-1802. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. is a rip-snortin’ affair. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. % 702-847-0311. % 702-847-7500. % 702-588-6211. Reno also . % 702-687-7410. % 702-265-5281. Carson Valley Days. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. % 702-829-1955. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. % 702-883-1352. Richest Rodeo in the West. % 702-882-1808. the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-353-2291. In Carson City. In Virginia City. heats up. % 800-FOR-RENO. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. % 702-782-2444. % 702-588-9658.
% 702-688-5767. the Nevada State Fair. a sort of post-modern. % 702-847-0311. % 702-782-9711. and the National Championship Air Races. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. % 702-972-6663. . and the famous Reno Basque Festival. In the skies. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. the Native American Snow Dance. Street Vibrations. and the Nevada Day Parade. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. % 702-329-1476. is held in Reno. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-786-5700. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-329-7469. % 702-882-1565. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. % 702-885-6939. In Incline Village. takes place in Carson City. attracts American Indians from many Western states. On the Black Rock Desert. % 702-826-1181. deconstructionist Woodstock. come to Virginia City along with a parade. the notorious Burning Man Festival. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. The Great Italian Festival. % 702-827-7603. gather in Minden.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. % 702-832-1606. % 800-535-3045.
then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. There are 10 routes.12a opportunities.14a). then climbs in earnest toward the peak. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. 1994. all 5. . Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8.11c and heavier. Falcon Press Publishing.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. After crossing Galena Creek.11a). at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. At the five-mile mark. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. including Asylum (5. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. however. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. then climbs to a saddle. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. including Jello Wars (5. are more chilling than the mountain air. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. Overhangs present experts with 5. whips around a peak. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection.11a and 5. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. Farther south. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. so dress appropriately. There are more than 20 routes.000 feet. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon.11d) and Slayer (5.
High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. Hours are seasonal. The trail ends at a highway. % 702-6881893. After another mile. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. % 702-847-WALK. The charge for adults is $12. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets.260 feet. . as are group tours. including great blue herons and birds of prey.300 feet in just six miles. elevation 8. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. offers a beautiful willow. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. NV 431. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. climbing 3. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. This hike is certainly strenuous. Since the slide. for children $5. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. so call first. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. Customized walking and driving tours are also available.
as are 7. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. As this is being written. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. For travel information. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. contact the BLM. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. To reach the trailhead. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. . For road conditions and closures. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. Yellow Hills East. write them at PO Box 20991. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. The trail. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. Mahogany Mountain. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. OR 97441. % 916-279-6101. CA 94620. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. Stevens Camp. For more information. Oakland. great horned owls and other birds of prey. Madras. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. is a good overnight point. From here. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. For more information.
8550 White Fir Street. jogs through alpine meadows. A steep. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. Denio Junction. % 702-746-6878. gaining 2. Incline Village. terminus of the fairly flat. % 702-626-6916. to the soaring summit at 9. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. NV 89511. Outdoor Adventures. % 702-623-1500. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. % 702-832-5231.397 feet. #111. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. 490 Kietzke Lane. PO Box 6145. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. Patagonia Outlet. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. Nevada Guide Service. 1135 Terminal Way. Sparks. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl.200 lung-burning feet. On the east side of the reservoir. backpackers and photographers. 3335 Vista Boulevard. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. NV 89450. % 702-333-6795. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. but they might also offer their services to hikers. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. The lakes. Silver State Outfitters. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. % 702-851-1924. Look for the Knott Creek sign. . 20 Daylily Court. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. % 702-322-9559. NV 89436. Reno. Reno. NV 89502. Bighorn Outfitting. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge.
call first for availability and directions. % 702-8252855. % 702-8827779. the trail makes a high-altitude. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. Zephyr Cove Stables. In all four cases. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. Sierra Mountaineer. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. 4339 South Carson Street. 1675 East 4th Street. % 702-831-5465. % 702-3584824. % 702782-7011. contact Tin Cup Adventures. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . Sporting Rage.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. Vogl Trek USA. 155 East Moana Lane. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. In the highlands near Mount Rose. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. % 702588-5664. % 702-885-7773. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. Near Washoe Lake State Park. Sierra Spirit Ranch. and offers picnic rides. 1941 North Carson Street. % 702-849-0570. Strictly Scuba & More. % 702-323-5630. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. Twin City Surplus. offers ranch day trips. also rents horses. After about three miles. % 702-849-1020. which parallels North Canyon Creek.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. 1201 Highway 395. % 702884-3453. % 702-849-9651. 4375 South Carson Street.
or ends. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. to Vya. Continuing northwest on NV 447. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. For detailed maps. north of Pyramid Lake. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. Put simply. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. From here.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. depending on point of view. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. 84 miles back to Gerlach. don’t screw it up. The half-paved. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. . the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. % 916-279-6101. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. % 702-831-0494. To complete the loop. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out.
500 North Carson Street. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. % 702786-5111. 3450 Lakeside Drive. winter and spring. 1987 North Carson Street. % 702-825-8258. 89701. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. 1999 South Virginia Street. % 702-8871333. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. % 702883-3210. Falcon Press Publishing. % 702-3226001. 89532. 89502. 4135 South Virginia Street. Reno Schwinn. . 89509. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. call % 702-688-1500. 89701. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. % 702827-3277. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. Bike Brothers. % 702826-0800. Great Basin Bicycles. 89502.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. & According to Jeanne L. 89502. Bicycle Warehouse. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 1993. For more information. 89502. Bobo’s Ski Shop. Excell Skates. 235 East Plumb Lane. % 702-747-1413. south of Carson City. along with Canada geese in fall. also known as NV 206. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas.
During spring and early summer. which can take up to seven hours. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. 89450. Nevada.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. Spooner Lake. PO Box 3007. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. kingfishers. personal water craft and kayaks. California. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. The trip. turkey vultures. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. six miles south of Gardnerville. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. On the Nevada side. red-tailed hawks. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. canoes. Contact the US Forest Service. Entrance fee is $3 per car. coyotes. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. % 702782-0867. 1685 Highway 395 South. offers 1. rents powerboats. 89423. . via NV 88 and CA 89. 89701. 625 Fairview Drive. % 702-8825007. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. cutthroat and rainbows. % 702-588-3369. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground.
contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. There are two boat ramps. A better option might be Ophir Creek. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. For the stalwart anglers. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. although . The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. catfish and trout. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. two to three miles up a steep trail. However. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. but in wet years. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. For directions. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. thanks to Sierra runoff. The smaller. planting and licensing information. are regularly stocked with rainbows. Idlewilde Park. Washoe Lake State Park. with campground and restrooms. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. and charges a launching fee. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. only a mile west of downtown. For more adventurous angling. For moving-water anglers. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. % 702-6874319. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. water levels. both on the eastern shore. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. % 702-688-1500.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin.
Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. however. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. Nevada Angler’s Guide. under Outfitters. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. Camping is primitive. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. There are two boat ramps on the lake. In his book. More than 100 years later. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. while rainbow. The reservoir is located on private land. Rainbow. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. Boats with outboards are permitted.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. crappie and perch. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. % 702-688-1500. see below. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. . Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. boasts a handful of isolated spots. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. used to separate gold and silver from ore. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. a health advisory is still in effect. For more information. Come prepared. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. the setting here is primative.
% 702-322-9559. intermediate and advanced. Tahoe Topliners. 294 East Moana Lane. % 702-358-6113. Don’s Fishing Charters. 96145. Tahoe City. 155 East Moana Lane. 89502. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. % 916-541-5448. NV 89431. The Gilly. CA. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. % 702-827-0600.440 vertical feet of runs. Reno Fly Shop. % 916-546-4444. 490 Kietzke Lane. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. PO Box 6506. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. PO Box 1909. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. equally divided among novice. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. Reno. % 702-588-4916. NV 89449.. % 916573-0753. . NV 89448. Stateline.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. Snowboarders are welcome. NV 89502. With a base elevation of 8. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. Sparks. NV 89502. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. Mount Rose also offers lessons. % 702-825-2855. NV 89448. Reno. Zephyr Cove.260 feet. Zephyr Cove. PO Box 10225. rentals and a shuttle bus. PO Box 815.
040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. the greatest acreage (4.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. Snowboarders are welcome. which include a pass. Lessons. and rental. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort.840 feet. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. . Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. rentals. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day).000 to 9. NV. all-terrain skis. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. lesson. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays.800) and the highest top elevation (10. 1210 Ski Way. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. day tours and amateur races.500 feet). % 702-7823047. not to mention great views of the lake. trail pass) is $34. Heavenly has 18 chairs. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. skate skis. a new gondola and the famous tram. 89451. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. For cross-country fans. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore.000 feet above sea level. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. lessons. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. Lessons. % 702-749-5349. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. Heavenly. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. with the longest vertical drop (3. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. rentals. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. This is a monster of a mountain. six surface lifts. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. and/or snowshoes. $8 after 3 PM). % 702-831-8361. Diamond Peak. Incline Village. lesson. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental.
South Lake Tahoe. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. % 702786-5111. 1200 South Wells Avenue. % 702831-3500. Stateline House of Ski. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. PO Box 19215. 209 Kingsbury. % 702782-0867. Galena Ski Rentals. CA 96151. 89502. % 702-358-4824. % 702-849-0111. % 702-3239463. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. % 916-544-1221. Mogul Mouse. 321 Sky Way. Sierra Mountaineer. % 702-3226001. 89451. % 702-786-2020. 89502. 89502. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 89451. 89451. % 702-831-3537. 89502. 140 Vesta Street. 1685 Highway 395 South. 89423. Snowind Sports. % 702-329-5358. 515 East Moana Lane. Bobo’s Ski Shop. of- . 89502. Sundance Ski Company. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 235 East Plumb Lane. 89502. Minden Bike & Ski Sports.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. % 702-8269096. Serva Ski. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. In Reno. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. 2615 Mill Street. % 702-831-2922. 89502. 2500 East 2nd Street. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. % 702-786-7071. Excell Skates. % 702-588-5935. 89502. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. C&J Flight Aviation.
and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe.. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. Harvey’s Resort. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. % 800-427-8397. The Douglas County Airport. $$$$$$$. $$$-$$$$. poolside service. Lake Tahoe. Lake Village Vacations. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. eight restaurants. $$$-$$$$. % 800-648-3353. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). of course. also features condo accommodations. % 702-784-4944. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. $$$$. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. % 800-6483773. % 800-635-0066. Tahoe Summit Village. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. the Sierras and. $$$-$$$$. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. a dance club. offers 534 rooms. High Country Soaring. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. Harrah’s. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. % 702-588-8571. 398 US 50. . three. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. $$$-$$$$. has two. on this site since 1944.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. has 740 rooms. % 800-99-RIDGE.
2 Stateline Road. with more than 1. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. which serves free continental breakfast. Harrah’s. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. $$$-$$$$. As in Las Vegas. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. as well as a gym with instructor on site. % 800-624-7980. a rustic feel. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. 407 North Virginia Street. % 800-322-7723. Today. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. % 800-731-6222.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. lawn games. $$. % 800- . % 800-824-6391. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. % 702-831-0287. 111 Country Club Drive. $$. $-$$. The Haus Bavaria B&B. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction.$$-$$$$. the Cal-Neva Resort. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. 593 North Dyer Circle. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. $$$. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. $$-$$$. The Zephyr Cove Resort. % 800-225-6382. 24 Highway 28. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. % 800-687-8733. combines great views. $$-$$$$. Among the downtown locations. A perennial four-star winner. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. $$-$$$. first-class. has 33 rooms. % 702-8321234. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. % 702-588-6644.700 rooms on 38 floors. 210 North Center Street.
% 800-622-1890. and Vagabond Inn. Rates start at $195 per night.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. % 800-723-6500. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. % 800-320-0627. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. has more than 1. $$$$. an owner-built. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. % 800-723-6500. % 800-937-1436. It has more than 1. $$$. % 800-648-5966. the new Peppermill. $$-$$$. $$. Circus Circus. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. The St. % 702-358-1080. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. the Motel 6. $. 1901 South Virginia. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. 2707 South Virginia Street.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. convention facilities and some impressive suites. 701 East 7th Street. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. Charles Hotel. which overlooks the state government center. $$. $$. 1100 Nugget Avenue. $$-$$$. 3131 South Virginia Street. Motel 6. % 702-825-7134. $$. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. % 800-648-1177. % 800-282-2444. $$. two heated pools and a hair salon. Freeway convenient. is a three-story. 500 North Sierra Street. the Eldorado. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. The Atlantis.000 rooms. $$$. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. % 702-827-0255. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. Away from downtown. $$. free airport shuttle and skier rates. . farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. 710 West Robinson Street. 345 North Virginia Street. Nearby. including a barber shop. which features theme rooms. boasts nearly 600 rooms. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. has a heated pool. 310 South Carson Street. $$. $. most notably the Days Inn. 600 South Carson Street. % 702-786-4070. a heated pool and other amenities. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. $$. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. 3575 South Virginia Street. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. % 702-882-3643. % 702-8821887. welcomes bargain hunters.
2001 Foothill Road. $-$$. $-$$. and Pioneer. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. 2332 Main Street. 300 Main Street. .Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. % 800-321-6983. % 702-782-7644. % 702-882-3046. The Chollar Mansion. It has four rooms. % 702-782-8720. % 702-782-5697. 907 South Carson. was built in the late 1800s. % 702-847-0111.C. $$$. $$. and a casino. $-$$. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. $$-$$$. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. 1627 US 395. There are 13 rooms. 11 with private baths. $$-$$$. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. two with private baths. % 702-847-9777. 1435 US 395. $$. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. #800-628-7831. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. 8 South F Street. % 702-557-2220. The Crooked House. $$$. including the small Genoa House Inn. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. The motel has 40 rooms. 565 South D Street. has five rooms. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. generic motels abound in Carson City. $. % 702-8825535. $$. % 800-962-0732. 800 North Carson. $$$. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. for weary wanderers. % 702-847-0521. some with kitchenettes. 1979 US 395. $-$$. $$. % 702-782-7075. Pratt. is the center of the action. It has four rooms. 1643 US 395. 180 Nixon Street. 1431 Ezell Street. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. % 702-782-9711. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. the inn was built in 1872 by A. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 1540 Main Street.
ethnic food and full buffets. % 702-323-3200. coffee shops. Steak. the lake’s first casino. also run the gamut with delis. % 702-825-1250. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. including a seafood and oyster bar. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. Ichiban. 3127 South Virginia Street. % 702-827-4111. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. serves fresh Japanese steak. a casino. of course. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. $. 1200 Razorback Road. . a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. 210 North Sierra Street.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. 328 Kingsbury Grade. try the Glory Hole. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. seasonal ingredients. is a rousing pub with good food. % 702-588-6276. Reservations are recommended. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. The restaurant also does its own baking. % 702-323-5550. The hotels. % 702-588-2411. 3065 West 4th Street. Famous Murphys. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. The Chart House. no TVs and. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. The place has 14 rooms. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. % 702-588-6611. Open for dinner only. % 702-941-0371. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. 4201 West 4th Street. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. Open for dinner only. along with Caesars Tahoe. The French cuisine is made with fresh. % 702-786-1323. the menu changes every two months.
% 702-356-3300. seafood and steak. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. There is also an extensive wine list. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. The Carson Nugget Steak House. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. % 702882-1626. Adele’s. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. this is the place. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. dinner only on weekends. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. 255 North Sierra Street. % 702-785-7000. 1112 North Carson Street. and Peppermill. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. South of the city center and south of the border. % 702786-5700. . % 702-883-6261. 4389 South Carson Street. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. 507 North Carson Street. 2707 South Virginia Street. % 702-882-4556. % 702-847-0111. % 702-689-7226. El Charro Avitia. 1020 North Carson Street. Boasting a large Italian menu. % 702-882-3353. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. Two blocks away. the Eldorado. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. % 702-882-0486. 1301 North Carson Street. one of the top Italian eateries in country. % 702-348-9297. 402 East William Street. 1540 Main Street. 234 North Virginia. Silvana’s. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. serves fine French cuisine. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. Heidi’s. % 702-8262121. % 702-8835100.
the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. Showers are available. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. % 916-279-6101. 2500 East 2nd Street. Call the Cedarville. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. Big Spring Reservoir. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. The overnight fee is $7. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. The nightly fee is $5. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. the campground has 24 sites. 735 Mill Street. Reno RV Park. % 702-8822766. On the Nevada side. Open June through September. % 916-573-2600. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. % 702-322-2281. office of the BLM. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. % 702-789-2000. There are 44 campsites here. the campground has 54 sites and running water. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. 1300 West 2nd Street. Rates run about $18 per night. % 702-687-4319. Set at 8. Mount Rose has running water. California.900 feet. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. The overnight rate is $12. some for RVs and some for tents. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. For information and fees. % 702-323-3381. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. Simply wonderful. lies south of the river. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. call % 702266-3343. Open May through October. Nightly fees are $6. including Virgin Valley. nine for RVs. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. which straddles the Nevada-California border. for more information. .
pausing only long enough to change mounts. the gutsy riders. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Beginning in April 1860. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. skinny. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. California.” Riders. the delivery time was as little as 10 days.. wiry fellows not over eighteen. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. Joseph. Want ads called for “Young. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border.Pony Express Territory vada. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. 1861. and Sacramento. willing to risk death daily. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. Bible and mail pouch. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. tore between stations. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. Missouri. Incredibly. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. carrying only a pistol. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Orphans preferred. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west.. On October 24. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region.
a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. Great Basin. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. As might be expected. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. so be prepared for anything. spans some of the most beautiful. glacier-carved peaks. hiking and wildlife viewing. But if you consider solitude. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. Near the town of Ely. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. there is excellent skiing. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. ridges and valleys in the country. Ranging in elevation from 3. Just a few hours from Ely. this area has plenty to offer. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. .963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. In the higher mountains. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. The Churchill County Museum & Archives.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. White-faced ibis. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. below. Admission is free. % 702-423-5128.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. covers 77. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. peregrine falcons. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. January through March. pelicans. .000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. In recent years. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. canvasbacks.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. snowy plovers.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada.000 people. April through December. With 10. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. (See On Water. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. 1050 South Maine Street. green-winged teals. 1000 Auction Road. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert.000 photographic images. In peak years. Sunday. Over 14. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. % 702-423-3677.000 years.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3. % 702-867-3500.
located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. is the artist in residence here. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. At press time. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. Over 8. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. Just off the highway are two short trails.000 years ago.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. Every spring. On the south end of town. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. and “management” means hunting. Adam Fortunate Eagle. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. More than 21. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. Just east of town. Pony Express Territory . which features the famous Blue Angels. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. The hunting season usually opens in October.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators.
wild West. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. volcanic cliffs around it. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. 100 Campus Way. the low. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. % 702-423-4556. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. dark. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. about three miles past West Gate. Near the station. geology and history of the region. but strenuous. If the roar of engines ever dies down. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. listen for the mountain’s “singing. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. fauna. Fallon. 379 West William Avenue. regularly emanate from the dune. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. % 702-423-2544. Fallon.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. A hike to the precipice is a safe.” meaning sword. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. roars and moans. . keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. NV 89406.” Booms. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. NV 89406. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together.
Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. population about 300. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. 13 miles east of Austin. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. PO Box 1149. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. PO Box 212. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). NV 89045. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. % 702-964-2200. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. % 702-964-2145. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Round Mountain. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. Six miles later.350 feet.577 feet. then to paved NV 376. However the rush began. Austin. Spencer’s Hot Springs. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. Austin is a quiet. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). then climbs again to Austin.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. the boom was followed by the bust. past Bob Scott campground. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. Three miles later. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. As always. NV 89310. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle.
A long. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. After merging with Lower Mine Road. Use caution here and stay out of the pool. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. At mile 30.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. PO Box 1420. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. is recommended for serious. NV 89820. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. The hill is located on private land. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. near Pete’s Summit. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. . as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. The limestone cavern. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. NV 89310. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. PO Box 212. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. % 702635-4000. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks.500 years ago. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50.000 years ago. are open to visitors just off the road. Austin. experienced cavers only. At mile 55. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. A series of safe. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. % 702-964-2200. Battle Mountain. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. There is also a free campground here. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs.
Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. but most definitely worth a gander. NV 89316. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. and the Jackson House Hotel. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. By 1878. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Still. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. dates from 1877. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. however. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. PO Box 14.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. But by 1890 the rush was over. The state’s No. Eureka. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City).” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. % 702-237-5484. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. Eureka. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. some a little less gloriously than others. The building. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. Eureka’s population of 9. found in the valleys around Eurkea. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . are still a major facet of the local economy. Gold mines. completed in 1880 and still in use today. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. The shell of the building. Not until five years later.
first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. n Ely Back on US 50. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. NV 89316. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. US 50 rolls across basin and range. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. PO Box 14. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. Pronounced EE-lee. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. Eureka. % 702-237-5484. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it.500 residents. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Entering town at night . this mini-city (population about 5. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. Monday through Friday and by appointment.000 feet. Situated at 9. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. A few miles farther south.
The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. like many museums in this territory. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. Pony Express Territory . There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. The White Pine Public Museum. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. % 702-2894710. % 702-289-2085. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. There is primitive camping here. East Ely. depot. former First Lady Pat Nixon. 2000 Aultman Street. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. Tours of the railroad yard. accessories. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. as well as an original. showers and hiking trails. PO Box 150040. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. The museum. On the other side of town.50 per person. clothing. depart on selected dates from May through September. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. a bicycle. engine house. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. NV 89301. % 702-728-4467. Admission is free. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. located on East 11th Street. furniture. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters.300 feet. Since they went cold in the 1880s. Call for exact dates and times.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. Return to US 50. Prices start at $10 per person. running water.
% 702-289-4865. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. From Baker. 1986. That leads quickly to Baker. Designated a national park in October.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. a proposal to create a 6. contact the Ely office of the BLM. 150 6th Street. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. Only about 70. In 1922. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. In the 1950s a . sometimes by the hundreds. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. 636 Aultman Street. Bristlecone Convention Center. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. % 702-289-8877. % 702-234-7331. % 800496-9350. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive.000 people a year visit the park. Most of the 77. For more information. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. While hikers are welcome. untamed backcountry.
there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. below. The high-altitude campgrounds. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. draperies. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. Prices are $4 for adults. limited to 30 people at a time. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. which is actually one huge cavern. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13.086-acre Great Basin National Park. then head straight out of the park. among others. or speleotherms: stalactites. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. NV 89311-9702. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. ski resorts and tramways. Christmas and New Year’s Day. .000 to 44. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. Finally. Baker. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. (See On Foot and Camping.067-foot Wheeler Peak. Tours of the cavern. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. Congress settled on 77. the park’s crown jewel. flowstone and soda straws. $3 for juniors. too.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. are hard to beat. are held every day except Thanksgiving. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. % 702-234-7331. stalagmites. Call ahead for conditions.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. While celebrating a victory. columns.000. in 1986.
a few of which are even of gem quality. South Toiyabe Peak. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail.600 feet. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. or use paved NV 376. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. % 702-9642671. Tierney Creek. Bakeoven Creek. Set at 7. Drive three miles to the recreation area. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. are spessartite. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. . Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere.000 feet. to reach the village of Kingston. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. Carvers NW. which has picnic tables and shade trees. Millet Ranch. To reach Garnet Hill. Arc Dome. which can take a few days to get acclimated to.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. The garnets found here. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth.
which heads west toward the peak.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. The wilderness.000 feet along rocky. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. set aside in 1989. nausea. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. as well as all the water you will need. % 702-289-3031 for more information. windswept paths. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). The trail ends just before the summit. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. headache. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. After about 10 miles of hiking.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. Baker. and Mount Moriah. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. 1. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. Pony Express Territory . as is carrying plenty of water for each person. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. This is some serious highcountry hiking. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. leave the high country immediately. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. a unique. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. is marked with trailhead signs. From the trailhead/parking area.000-acre. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. If threatening clouds approach. which at 12. with many trails climbing above 10. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. which may be impassable when wet.
This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. If it is safe to venture to the peak. This is another depression etched by a glacier. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. To reach the summit. The bowl. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. In 1878.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. then descends to Teresa Lake.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. Use extreme caution here. the views of the 8. then turn left again. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques.063 feet. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. At 13. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. the six-mile . Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Continue straight. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. or cirque. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. Finally. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. the last 1.
Around mile six. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. To continue the loop hike. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon.950 years. To return to the trailhead. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. subalpine conditions.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection.700 feet in the first seven miles. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. Lehman Caves. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. once the site of some mining activity. After about three miles. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. In good weather. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. Turn left.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. just off to the east. . TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. Wheeler Peak. Return the way you came. Kious Spring.926-foot Pyramid Peak. this is a nice overnight stop. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter.
% 702-4239215. 3125 Stark Lane. Wendover George A. 2005 Harrigan Road. 89301. Daum. As of presstime. 89301. 89406. Burdick Guide Service. Great Basin Inn. sells camping and outdoor equipment. Silver State Stables. HCR 33. % 702-867-3388. 189 Aultman Street. 89301. % 702-289-8886. Wildlife West Guide Service. % 702-423-5185. 5030 Reno Highway. . 2011 Indian Lakes Road. HC 34. J & P Auto Parts. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. % 702-238-5232. 89406. % 702-2893063. % 702-664-2977. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. Sportsworld. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. PO Box 2560. 89406. % 702-289-4468. a quartermile. % 702-289-4208.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. 701 Avenue F. 89406. Flying M Stables. is worth a gander. 89301. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. % 800-874-0903. % 702235-7439. 203 Heritage Drive. 89406. 89301. 89301. 89883. Box 33570. % 702-423-6171. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. White River Guide Service. PO Box 34005. 1050 Aultman Street. % 702423-9215. 1707 Rice Road.
contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. PO Box 130. the sixstory. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. For more information. The route runs north out of the canyon. For more information. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. % 702-885-6000.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. population 300. A 10-mile loop with a 1. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . % 702-964-2671. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. Austin.000 per year. brochures and campgrounds. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. NV 89310. NV 89310. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. Austin. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. Dune-buggy. one would think tiny Austin. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. PO Box 504. contact the BLM.
TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. directions and road conditions. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. 1500 Aultman Street. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. when the weather is dry. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. sells and services bicycles. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. and bring plenty of water. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. From the pavement. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. for maps. % 702-289-8886. % 702-234-7331. . Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. past the US Forest Service station.
walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. where worms and corn are said to work best. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. % 702-688-1500. Boat ramps are located in two spots. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. along with sportfishing. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. White crappie can be hooked March through May. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. Pony Express Territory .000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. surrounds a 10. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. The trout limit is 10. Lahontan State Recreation Area. In 1997.
Great Basin Inn. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. J & P Auto Parts. % 702-289-8886. is one of the biggest places in town. % 702-423-6031. % 702-289-3063. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. A few chain HO TE L . The Upper Reese River. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. 1050 Aultman Street. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. and one of the best bargains. 701 Avenue F. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. which feeds the lake. % 702-289-4468. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. $-$$. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. % 702-289-4865. via paved NV 376 and a three. 855 West Williams Avenue. 1500 Aultman Street. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east.
which has 30 rooms. $. As you drive in from the west. which has 49 rooms. the 22-room Value Inn. Smith Creek Ranch. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. has 27 rooms. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. $. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. % 702-423-4648. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. which has 17 rooms. the Lincoln Motel. $$. with 10 rooms. $-$$. % 702-423-2194. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. The Eureka Motel. % 702-237-5247. the Pony Express House. instruction. $-$$. while on the southern edge of town. 1705 South Taylor Street. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . $-$$. combines a B&B with a private. who really cares. $$$. $$. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. 1830 West Williams Avenue. is a modern. The ranch. % 702-237-5577. a heated pool and interior corridors. including the Comfort Inn. $-$$. $-$$. rates and directions. basic equipment. On the east end of town. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. 25 North Taylor Street. meals and overnight accommodations. % 702-423-5554. has 21 rooms. % 702-9642605. also called Main Street here. 115 Northwest Main Street. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. most of which are on US 50. % 702-423-4254. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. It is open seasonally. but after a long day on the road. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. For a real blast from the past. $-$$. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). The Nevada Belle Motel. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. The Sundown Lodge.800 acres. % 702-964-2306. called Main Street as it runs through town. % 702-964-2471. Call for information. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. % 702-423-2277. try Jackson House B&B. the Budget Inn. % 702-964-2698. which is north-south running US 95. $$$. % 702-237-5334. % 702-423-5151. 70 East Williams Avenue. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. a heated pool and a small casino. has 17 rooms. and. $. 180 West Williams Avenue. The red brick structure was built in 1877.
% 702-289-8687. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. which has 61 rooms. 501 Aultman Street. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. the inn has five rooms with private baths. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. For a more genteel stay. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. % 702-2891234. After years of dormancy. 500 High Street. For a more modern taste. % 702-289-8838. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. % 702-237-9988. $-$$. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. % 702-289-8900. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. The inn is open June through September. 701 Avenue I. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. 1101 Aultman Street. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. $-$$. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel.300. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. % 702-289-4747. is another living antique. 5th . % 702-289-4884. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. 700 Avenue I. the building was vacant 10 years later. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. located on the south side of town off US 93. $-$$. $$. has 21 rooms. There are also private balconies. $$-$$$. 930 Aultman Street. $-$$. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. 220 East 11th Street. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. $-$$$. $. The Bristlecone Motel. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. which has 19 rooms. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. % 702-289-4497.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. $-$$. two-story hotel. 770 Avenue O. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. % 702-289-6665. $. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. and its twin. % 702289-6671. Ely With a population of more than 5. 1501 Avenue F.
South of Baker at the national park boundary. % 702-237-7302. Baker. 150 4th Street. offers tipis and a campground. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. even fast food joints are nonexistent. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison.. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. % 702234-7323. % 702-289-4411. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. At presstime there were two places to stay in town. $-$$. $.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. $. what with its 29 rooms. % 702-234-7323. % 702-289-3033. $. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. . The Silverjack Motel. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. % 702-234-7272.. % 702-234-7343. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. 1301 Aultman Street. NV 89311. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely.er. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. $-$$. and Whispering Elms RV Park. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. Behind the Silverjack. % 702234-7300. and the White Pine Motel. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. along with horseback riding. It is open June through August. the Border Inn. % 702-289-3800. and two others outside of Baker. % 702-234-7267. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. guided tours and off-road adventures. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. Utah. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. 24hour laundromat and showers. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. $. is a favorite spot for travelers. with its seven rooms. which has a laundromat and showers. PO Box 90. so call ahead for operating hours.
70 South Maine Street.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. If your mind is on pizza. % 702-423-3233. In 1929 and ’30. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. lunch and dinner. The International Café and Bar. 1350 West Williams Avenue. % 702-423-6166. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. The Depot Casino. 125 South Maine Street. is also open for three squares a day. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. 875 West Williams Avenue. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. % 702-423-2117. % 702-867-3750. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. The Mexican food at La Cocina. is known throughout Fallon. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. % 702-867-2769. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. Café Nations. however. Smack in the center of town. 1560 West Williams Avenue. 1955 McClean Road. Toiyabe Café. Open for breakfast. % 702423-6828. % 702-964-2493. including McDonald’s. The Fallon Nugget Casino. have been serving great burgers. % 702-423-5588. % 702-423-3111. is Fallon’s only coffee house. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. try Mary’s Owl . including the few eateries. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Kentucky Fried Chicken. serves up steaks. In the 1920s and ‘30s. Carol’s Country Kitchen. 960 Auction Road. % 702-964-9905. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. Stockman’s Casino. Denny’s. % 702-964-2220. 4150 Reno Highway. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. is home to The Diner. specializing in omelets and steaks. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. Tony’s. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare.
Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. % 702-688-1500. 562 Aultman Street. The Busy Bee Drive-In. 501 Aultman Street.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. which features prime rib. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. % 702-2289-3765. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. West of Fallon. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. however. top sirloin steak and eggs. 4800 Reno Highway. % 702-289-4884. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. % 702-237-5280. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. Fallon RV Park. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. serving diner-style grub. offers 45 sites. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. and Hubtotel RV Park. and is attached to a bar. The Fireside Inn. % 702-289-6665. has 64 sites. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. % 702-964-2412. % 702-867-3636. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . % 702-289-3033. and Orient Express. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. 211 5th Street. % 702-237-5356. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. % 702-289-4888. % 702-964-2627. 2160 Aultman Street. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. 5787 Reno Highway. % 702-237-5477. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. Jerry Restaurant No. might as well top it off in Eureka. 21. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. % 702-867-2332. is also open 24 hours a day. Believe it or not. where the restaurants are also along US 50. Lahontan State Recreation Area. 701 Avenue I. % 702-289-3313. serves a fine steak sandwich. % 702-289-3905. 1455 Aultman Street. The Owl Club. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. located three miles north of town on US 93.
Open April to October. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. along with campfire rings. grills. Battle Mountain. Austin RV Park. % 702-964-1011.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. For more information and road conditions. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south.500 feet. then go a mile to County Road 1059. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. NV 89310. There are 10 sites here . which are open June through September with running water. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). PO Box 130.800 feet. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. % 702-964-2671. Only six miles southwest of Ely. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. where there are eight campsites set at 7. For information. Austin. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. After a few miles. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C.300 feet. 24 miles east of Austin. There are 15 sites. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. No running water or firewood. picnic tables and vault toilets. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. None have running water. There is drinking water here. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. About nine miles south of Big Creek. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. both off of US 50. Finally. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. NV 89820. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. as there are no services near the water. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. North of Ely. Just east of the Eureka town limits.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. PO Box 1420. Just east of town. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. To reach Bird Creek campground. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. % 702-635-4000. Bob Scott Campground. set at 7.
Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. Ely. 89301. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. % 702-234-7331. and Valley View RV Park. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. For more information. The BLM. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. % 702-2893031.886 feet. In Great Basin National Park. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. on US 93.300 feet. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. There are 30 sites here at 7. this is the only park campground open all year. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. Contact the visitors center. and there are no showers. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. NV. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. depending on weather conditions. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93.752 feet. On the northern edge of the park. Set at 7. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. % 702-2893413. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. Upper Lehman. 350 8th Street. % 702-289-4865. In the center of the park.530 feet. Pony Express Territory . where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. To reach the campground from US 50. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. % 702-2893303. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. has 100 sites.250 feet). Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive.
F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. Edmund Schulman. however.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. the state animal. Desert bighorn sheep. . has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. The short. Today in Cowboy Country. call many parts of this high country home. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine.000-year-old duck decoys. started pulling core samples. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. He found one living specimen dating back 4. the oldest living thing on earth. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. not many of them stayed around very long.000 feet and more.700 years. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. humans. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. Named Methuselah. Throughout history. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. reaching as high as 11. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. sagebrushcovered sea.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. who described them as “lowly old giants.
Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer.000 years. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. In 1993. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. The weather here can be as wild as the land. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. lakes and reservoirs. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. streams.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. bikers and equestrians. In fact. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. Winter brings rain and snow. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. Carry good maps and a compass. Summers are generally hot and dry. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. towns like Winnemucca. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. and know how to use them. bass and other gamefish. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. Elko headed the list of the 100 . with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views.
that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. Cowboy Country . after the riches ran out. paralleled the Humboldt River. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. but thanks to new mining technology. In late 1860s. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. took to sheepherding. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. parts of which are still visible today. The famous trail. combed Cowboy Country. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. This is a place where pick-up trucks. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. but everyday tools. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. lunch and dinner. both held in Elko. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. others moved on. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. But since the early days.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. including one named Samuel Clemens. followed by the doomed Donner Party. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. the Central Pacific Railroad came though.
Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. With a population of just over 2. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. about 17 miles from Lovelock. which crosses the Humboldt River. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road.000-square-mile Pershing County. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. turn left on Derby Road. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. The seat of 6. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. which the company named after him. After eight miles. Five miles southwest of the shelter. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. which measures . another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. George Lovelock. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada.300. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. arrived here in 1866. located on the southern outskirts of town.
Tufas. He may have been led there by Natchez. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. Mummified remains were found here. many of which were donated by locals. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . picnicperfect park. Scientific excavations. the first ever in the Great Basin. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. Lovelock. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. Admission is free. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. % 702-273-2713. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. NV 89419. dark. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. One of only two round courthouses in the country. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. PO Box 821. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. which also features the community pool. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. are large. in 1886 or 1887. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. clothing and household items. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute.
PO Box 821. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. Lovelock. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. which seems close enough to touch.134 n Cowboy Country vada. About 16 families reside in Unionville. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. % 702-273-2713. NV 89419. see below under Adventures. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. fishing and camping. as well as opportunities for boating. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. % 702-538-7321. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. For details. below) and wellmanicured homes. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. After later taking the name Mark Twain. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. where stone . Open all year. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. is centered on this man-made lake.
Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. the Humboldt Museum complex. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. From here it’s five miles to the town. % 702/623-2225. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. except for lunch. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. Winnemucca (population 7. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. Today their descendants. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. dancing. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. Admission is free. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. They later brought their families. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. Edna Purviance. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. To reach Unionville from I-80. Curator . a good spot for a picnic. a former resident. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. % 702-623-2912. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women).
NV 89445. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. Another gem is the Shone House. The former First National Bank.000 in gold. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. but all are easily drivable. The tour visits 30 sites. NV 89445. 602 Bridge Street. along with a thank you note. NV 89445. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. nabbing $32. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. one of two in the country.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. . Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca.000. St. Winnemucca. % 800-962-2638. Like something out of old Mexico. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. 705 East Fourth Street. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. There is a gift shop next door. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Winnemucca. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. The thieves escaped to Texas. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. 352 Bridge Street. US Forest Service. Winnemucca. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. NV 89445. was erected in 1863. Winnemucca. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 95 Bridge Street. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. % 702-623-1500. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. % 702623-5025. % 702-623-5025.
but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. Today about 100 people live in town. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. The camp was abandoned by 1869. Jungo.300 people had moved by 1913. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. A 20th-century ghost town. after fending off resident Paiutes. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. along with the local watering hole. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. Midas is two miles from this junction. all but 250 people left. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. the town was an empty shell. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. and 2. The Rochester Mining District. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. Three years later the village became Paradise City. which serves as a meeting place and information center. To reach the remains of the camp. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. established Scottsdale in 1866. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. once a busy town of more than 2. which .
Just south of town. obtain maps.) In town. biking. The local mining. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. The Northeastern Nevada Museum.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. (See Adventures and Camping. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. After all. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. however. (See Adventures. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. A state park. Gas is also available. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. beautiful high-country lake. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. % 702-578-3381. deli and soda fountain. is easy to locate.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. verdant marshes. Basque . on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. % 702-623-5025. offers a bar. 1515 Idaho Street. Paradise Saloon. It’s the white. this town of about 25. fishing and camping.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. this is Cowboy Country. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. located on the extreme east end of town. In Winnemucca. % 702-7383418. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. sometimes an angler’s paradise.
most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. and Sunday. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. also known as J. geology and industry abound. 9 AM to 5 PM. % 800-8727245.Touring n 139 immigrants. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. % 800-331-1212. Deweys Rent-A-Car. and a charter airline.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. 501 Railroad Street. The Western Folklife Center. . along with various other events throughout the year. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. % 800-453-9417. % 702-738-5131. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. geography. Displays of local wildlife. Hertz Rent-A-Car. Admission is free. 10 AM to 5 PM. Harris Field.C. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). % 800-654-3131. El Aero Services. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. % 702-738-7508. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. 1 PM to 5 PM. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. % 702-738-7123. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. For airport information.
Humboldt National Forest. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. 90.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. At the . Elko. Elko. 1601 Idaho Street.800 feet). Alpine vistas. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. 700 Moren Way. % 800-248-ELKO. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. % 702-753-0200. 89801. with elevations ranging up to 11. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. From Elko.387 feet at Ruby Dome. fishing and camping in the entire West. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. From town. 3900 East Idaho Street. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. Elko. Elko.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. including the remote. % 702-738-5171. passing Powerhouse picnic area. % 702-738-7135. (See Adventures and Camping. 89801. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. 976 Mountain City Highway. located southeast of Elko. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. 89801. Elko Chamber of Commerce. 89803.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness.
a high clearance vehicle is required. More than 1. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. is spectacular. For access to both. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. and by the 1930s the rush was over. Ruby Dome. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. From Wells. Even when they are open. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. Nevada. Yes.Touring n 141 crest. then north another 25 miles. U-shaped valley. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. turns south. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. rising 11. check with the owners of the Trading Post. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. .500 people flooded into the region. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. or call them at % 702-488-2315. Idaho. so drive cautiously.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. From the south. is visible in the west. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. the road meets the Jarbidge River. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. see below. and there’s no argument here. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. this town sticks to Mountain Time. down into Jarbidge Canyon. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin.387 feet. The road leads east 21 miles. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. For details on all of this. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. (See On Foot. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge.
Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. try Stuart’s Foodtown. of course. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. and the 37. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. the 44. n Wendover From Wells. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. This is also the junction of US 93. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. the main difference between the two sides being. 647 Humboldt Avenue. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. The town was abandoned in 1942. Sunday until 9 PM. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. reached easily via a paved highway. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. Cool.) On the Utah side of the state line. however. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. both available at the Trading Post. % 801-665-7721. For ghost town fans. which rises to 11.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. stare out across the famous. Bonneville Speedway Museum. head east from the border. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. the presence of casinos. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. % 702-752-3215. the main artery running up the east side of the state. To access the flats. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. The range is also home to Angel Lake.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. 4 and go five miles northeast.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . n Wells From Elko. Before entering town. exit at No. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. Adventures in the mountains are listed below.
A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. which gains 1. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. June Both hay. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. which attracts upwards of 10. falcons and ospreys are common. a . Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. Eagles.600 feet in two miles.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. the historic World War II B-29s. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. % 702-664-3414. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. hawks. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. is held in late March or early April. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike.000 buckaroos. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. The night before the events. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. first at the Miner’s Rodeo.
144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. featuring food. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. July In July. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. dancing. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. Near Wendover.or 23-mile loop. For details. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. There is a traditional dance contest. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony.. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. . call % 702-635-8245. under Touring. six. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. Unless otherwise indicated. In Wendover. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. a parade and feats of strength. when tanks. The largest Basque get-together in the US. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. Phone numbers can be found above. hear the music and eat the food. The town of McDermitt.
the road. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. Star Peak (elevation 9. Pronghorn antelope. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley.732) is the highest point. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. crossing Buffalo Creek. passable by high-clearance vehicles. To reach the trail. From here. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. 1994. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. climbing more than 4. The trail is punishing. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. From the top. The trailhead appears after three miles. The first half of the moderately strenous. Aspen. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. Star Peak. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. leads due east toward the highest point.000 feet in four miles. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail.834 feet). which . then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. Granite Peak (elevation 9.200 feet. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. This makes for a great loop drive. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. including the 31. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. Falcon Press Publishing. willow and cottonwood country. Chartered in 1989. To reach the trailhead.
USGS 7.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. big horn sheep. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. more than 10.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. Horses are welcome on these trails. about one mile south of town. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. rolling sage-covered hills and steep.800 feet above sea . Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. Come prepared for anything. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. narrow canyons. cirque basins.6 miles to a parking area. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. descends toward a watercourse. including Singas Creek.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. Mountain lions. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. glacial lakes. where you turn south. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca.” Elevations range from 6. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot.415). The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. Hikers can visit rock peaks. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. Return the way you came. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. depending on weather conditions. % 702-623-5025.
then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. so check road conditions before heading out. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. % 702-752-3357. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. this is the high point of the trek. The pass is often closed in winter. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. At 10. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead.Adventures n 147 level. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions.300-foot .500 feet. as there are no trout here. set at 9. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket.400 feet and heads north. After about a mile and a half. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. % 702-738-7135. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. of course. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass.400 feet. Pause to rest but not to fish. know this region as well as anyone. Feel free. From Roads End. The 1. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. Franklin Lake NW. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. Hyslop. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. and his dog Molly. The five-mile. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. cross Lamoille Creek a few times.
Unfortunately. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. On a good day. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. Idaho. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. Finally.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. the closest town. Just past the spring. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. Wild- . Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. Return the way you came. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open.000 feet to 10. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination).148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. The trail drops again. From the trailhead. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. subalpine forests. Most of the paths are found in the 113.700 feet.000-foot mark.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. For more information. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. call % 702-758-6493. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. and everything is open year-round. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. mountain whitefish. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. Channel cats. % 702-623-5025. and black bass have become a favorite catch. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. brown and rainbow trout.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. To reach the lake from Elko. The site has a paved boat ramp. is also a good fishing spot. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. supports brook. campsites and restrooms.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. rainbows. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters.
elevation 8. At the foot of the range. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. To reach the refuge from Elko. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. midway between the northern and southern portions. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. short-eared owl and American kestrel. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. great sandhill crane.000 acres. For more information. Angel Lake Near Wells. Within six miles of the trailhead. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. % 702-738-5171. Turn left and head south 32 miles. contact the US Forest Service. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. . Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. trumpeter swam. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. white-faced ibis.800 feet. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. so check road conditions before heading out. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. including bald and golden eagle. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko.154 n Cowboy Country ers. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. For an easier drive from Wells. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass.
brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . In warmer months. % 702-777-DIVE. % 702-664-3414. % 702-7442277. catfish. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. 423 South Bridge Street. Elko Guide Service. % 702779-2268. Grandview Marine. 89833. 89801. % 702779-2226. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko.400-acre lake. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. HC 60. have become a local haven for divers. 89833. % 702-625-2453.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. % 702-7388473. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. 1250 Lamoille Highway. 89801. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. Raley’s. are the best bets here. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. HC30 Box 17 #13. Rainbow. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. the bowcut trout. PO Box 515. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. % 702-7382775. crystalline Blue Lakes. 2511 Mountain City Highway. 285 12th Street. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. 89801. Secret Pass Outfitters. HC 60. 89801. PO Box 685. the spring-fed. For more information. To reach the 2.
depending on snowfall. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. one tame and the other decidedly not so.500 to 6. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. $$. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. is the most happening place in town. 2805 Unionville Road. $$$. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. covering 5. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. pool and jacuzzi. ranging from 5. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. Elko SnoBowl.200 feet. lodging and all the extras. To reach the ranch from I80. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. is convenient to I-80. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. Although there isn’t a television to be found. with a 24-hour casino. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. 55 Cornell Avenue. offers 130 acres of terrain. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. % 702-738-7135. not to mention 74 rooms. % 702-538-7585. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. . Trips are limited to 16 people. The outfit boasts 5. restaurant. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. Lunch and dinner are extra.500 feet. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. $-$$. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. lounge. 1420 Cornell Avenue. % 800-528-1234.000 acres of skiable mountain.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. The Lovelock Inn. % 702-273-2937.200 vertical feet. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. % 702-753-6867. then head west for five miles to town.
The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. % 702-623-1116. and the Model T Motel. $$-$$$. $-$$. eateries. % 800-262-8901. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. % 800-645-5658. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. There are plenty of cheap. the Gold Country Motor Inn. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). and the Holiday Motel. $$. the Ameritel Inn Elko. is for you. a lounge with live entertainment. the 170-room Holiday Inn. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. % 702-7387261. % 702-738-8425. 400 1st Street. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. % 702-625-1818. $$-$$$$. Casino Express. restaurant and bar. $-$$. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$$. the Red Lion Inn. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$. 837 Idaho Street. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$. offers 40 rooms. The Red Lion not only has a casino. 1930 Idaho Street. but also its own charter airline. and the Motel 6. % 702-623-3646. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. restaurant and full bar. % 800-545-0044. in- . The Gold Country Inn. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 2050 Idaho Street. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-3661. offering 70 rooms. with 150 rooms. % 800-633-6435. 2065 Idaho Street. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-738-8421. 3015 Idaho Street.000. and the generic. $-$$. a pool and 223 rooms. including the queen of Elko establishments. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. the Red Lion Inn. $$. % 702-623-5248. There are also two Best Westerns. the 80-room Val-U Inn. $-$$. starting with the two biggies. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. the Super 8. $$. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. basic motels on the main drag. % 800-346-5306. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. $$$$$. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. $$. % 702-623-1180. % 702-738-8787. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. and the Days Inn. casino. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. $$.
and the Thunderbird Motel. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. $-$$. $$$-$$$$. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. Red’s Ranch. $-$$. 340 Commercial Street. 1755 Idaho Street. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. Jiggs Guest Ranch. $-$$. Stonehouse Country Inn. Just outside of Lamoille. Away from Idaho Street.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. 2401 Mountain City Highway. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. bar and pool. % 702-753-6363. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. has 70 rooms. detached cabin with jacuzzi. % 702-738-5141. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. 89828. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. $$. . Stockmen’s Hotel. PO Box 281381. biking and horseback riding. jacuzzi and fitness center. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. % 702-738-8488. restaurants. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. Lamoille. % 702-738-7115. There is even space for campers and RVers. $$$-$$$$. There are 141 rooms. $$-$$$. $$. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. % 702-753-6281. % 702-753-6356. $$-$$$. a swimming pool. some with kitchenettes. $$$-$$$$. % 702-578-3530. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. along with a pool. The Shilo Inn. is an exclusive. including skeet shooting. PO Box 281208. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. hiking and fly fishing. % 702-738-5522. 345 Idaho Street. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. $$$$. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large.
$-$$$$. PO Box 300. % 702-4082338. even by the neighbors in Utah. 576 6th Street. % 702-488-2311. On the north side of town. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. $-$$. PO Box 1300. % 702-752-3888. the Chinatown Motel. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. % 702-752-3384. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. most of them planted along 6th Street. the Rest Inn Suites. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. if you’re into chains. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. There are 57 rooms. $$-$$$. % 702-752-2151. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. % 702-488-2315. 89826. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. % 702-752-3604. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. The Super 8.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. On Main Street. $-$$. $-$$. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. and the Old West Inn. $$$-$$$$. 1250 East 6th Street. % 702-752-2277. Jarbidge. $. offers another 24 rooms.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. HC 62. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. % 702-752-3353. 930 6th Street. $. % 702-7523065. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. has 56 rooms. Together . 100 Wendover Boulevard. If not. $$-$$$. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. and the Best Western Sage Motel. % 800-848-7300. $-$$. There are more than 1. 326 6th Street. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. $. % 702-752-2116. $. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. which also has a restaurant and bar. the Outdoor Inn. 456 6th Street. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. For more information. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. PO Box 260090. HC 62. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. Down the street. Cottonwood Ranch. % 702-752-2101.
dancing and an 18-hole golf course. The Peppermill Hotel. 1420 Cornell Avenue. restaurants. live showroom entertainment. . The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. jacuzzi. % 800-537-0207. $$. offers breakfast. which has live entertainment. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-273-3232. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. Wee B’s Pizza & More. and Pizza Factory. La Casita. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. a 14. % 702-273-2971. 260 Maine Street. which basks in the Basque tradition. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. along with daily specials. % 702-273-2442. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. In the center of town. % 702-623-3197. 750 Cornell Avenue. Nearby. live entertainment. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. serving steak. including restaurants and lounges. 410 Cornell Avenue. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. is open until 10 PM every day. with 90 rooms. % 800-648-9660. and until 2 PM on Sunday. the Super 8. lunch and dinner. a health club. 9 PM on Sunday. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. Mexican food and pizza. is another gamer’s haven. leg of lamb. % 702-664-2888. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. 680 Wendover Boulevard. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino.000-square-foot casino. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. % 702-273-7444. 485 Cornell Avenue.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. tennis courts. pool. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. pool and jacuzzi. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. $$-$$$. shrimp and Basque side dishes. lounges. $-$$. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. % 702-273-7773.
has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. 180 Melarkey Street. Elko The Red Lion Inn. % 702-625-2555. Stockmen’s Hotel. % 702-623-2908. % 702-738-3214. % 800-545-0044. China Garden. This being ranch country. % 702-623-4440. The atmosphere is definitely casual. all of their meat is cut to order. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. 2065 Idaho Street. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. since 1863. 405 Silver Street. Specializing in steak. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. Toki Ona. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. Another Basque establishment. % 702-623-3455. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-6777. % 702-738-9691. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. 1061 West Fourth Street. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 340 Commercial Street. The Steak House. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. home of the world’s largest potato field. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. % 702-738-5141. seafood and chicken. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. % 702-623-2977. % 702-623-4104. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. but get there before 1 PM. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. 95 South Bridge Street. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. 1550 Idaho Street. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. Restaurante San Fermin. . 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. while The Griddle. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet.
% 702-738-1622. 217 Idaho Street. Pizza Barn. Pine Lodge. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. % 702-752-3210. % 702-738-7898. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. 1740 Mountain City Highway. depending on weather conditions. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. % 702-753-6363. % 702-4882315. % 702-753-3877. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). also serves hearty meals. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. 2525 Mountain City Highway. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. % 702-753-6356. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. . 9 Beans and a Burrito. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. where it survived The Big One in ’06. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. delivers on its name. Burger Bar. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. Prices range from moderate to expensive. If you crave Mexican food. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. % 702-738-7088. % 702-488-2311. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. La Fiesta. opens daily at 11 AM. Main and Humboldt Streets.300 souls. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. to peruse the ornate bar. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. 780 Commercial Street. % 702-7382541.
The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. 25. 23. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. There is running water and vault toilets. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. For more information. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. just north of the dam.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek.400 feet. 27 and 29 are especially good. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. which holds trout and walleye. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. For more information. 22 miles north of Lovelock. The other one. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. Fees are $7 per night in summer.600 feet.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. % 800-848-7300. the area has two campgrounds. two beautiful US Forest Service . The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. Set at 7. located at the end of Hanson Street. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. offer 12 different restaurants. % 800-648-9660. The main draw here is 11. call % 702-538-7321. call % 702-738-5171. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. $8 for a two-family site. $3 per night in winter. The Peppermill Hotel. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. For modern hunter-gatherers. 100 Wendover Boulevard. call % 800-962-2638. Set at 7. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. For more information. The fee is $7 per night. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. Sites 22.
% 702-752-3357. . but no running water. For information on the above campgrounds. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. first-served sites. depending on the availability of running water. One mile north of town. The fee is $5 per night. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night.900 feet. The campground. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. About five miles up NV 225. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. The cabins are open October through mid-May. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. all free.800 feet and is popular with anglers. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. has 37 first-come. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. including three run by the US Forest Service. and the fee is $8 per night. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. For more information. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. Set at 8.500 feet. with running water. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. Angel Creek is set at 6. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. offering 18 sites with running water. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. and the fee is $7 per night. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. % 208-5434129. and are open June to October. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site.
The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. an 11. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. Others. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. Meanwhile. however. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. US For- B Pioneer Territory . both socially and physically. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. writer. who once roamed this entire area. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. are in a state of “arrested decay. like Belmont and Rhyolite. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. low taxes. but the rest of the country. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. affordable housing . Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time.Touring n 167 est Service. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. Rocky Mountain elk. Department of Defense. Toiyabe. People and services are scarce. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. In the Mojave Desert. then limber pine at higher elevations. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. In the lowlands. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. Geographically. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. Nevada Division of State Parks. and six state parks to explore.000. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains.
A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. It’s also one of the hottest. % 702-727-5800. In 1997. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. 1771 Sagehen Road.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. authorizing up to 90. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. is the first and. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. blue and white building. only winery in Nevada. as of this writing. mission-style.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . there’s no competition). % 702-751-0821. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. On the south end of town in a modern. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. According to Winona LaDuke. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. % 702-7276900. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). contact the Chamber of Commerce. The 22. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. 3810 Winery Road. % 702-7270896. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. 1141 South Highway 160. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°.
and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. however. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. mallards. and the second-greatest in all of North America. . Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. then head west for about 20 miles. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. HCR 70. Visitors can. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. great blue herons. snipe.300 spread over 545 square miles. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. including ducks. following the signs to Ash Meadows. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. NV 89020. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. coots. Amargosa Valley. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. Box 610Z. % 702-372-5435. for some handmade Mexican food. whitefaced ibises. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. coyotes and rabbits. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. inaccessible to the general public. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. % 702-372-1131. moorhens. prairie falcons. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. It’s no easy job. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left.
Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. 50 saloons. Kelly’s Bottle House. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News.000. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. NV 89020. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. . 19 hotels. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. three newspapers. and the old train depot.000. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. PO Box 6102. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. maps. Amargosa Valley. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904.000 claims over 30 square miles. the gray. Now recognized as a state historic site. % 702-5532200. HC 70. for more information. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. two hospitals and a busy red-light district.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. % 702-3725459. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked.
went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout.000 dizzy with gold fever. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. . concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. Once the largest city in the state.000. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. when the money ran dry. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. turn-of-the-century frontier community. crystal chandeliers.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. Goldfield Founded in 1902. Local residents were used as models. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. keeping a population of more than 20. By 1920. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks.” a collection of white. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. constructed in 1908 for $500. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. Today the remains of stone buildings. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. % 702-553-2424. however. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. life-size. In the first decade of the 20th century. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper.
% 702-485-6365. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. and spend a few hours following its trail. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. % 702482-3558. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. including the old post office that is now the local museum. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. Before heading out. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. however. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. built in 1908 and still in use today. and east-west-running US 6. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. the Central Nevada Museum. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. % 702-482-9676. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. 301 Brougher Avenue. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. . more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point.
and the 1907 George A. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. photographs and exhibits. which helped put the state on the map. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. A library. the town exploded – figuratively – and . As this is being written. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883.000 acres. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. 9 AM to 5 PM. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. are available by special request. For more on these wonderful regions. which total more than 260. including a map room. with Hawthorne the new seat. Admission is free. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. Like many Nevada locales. call % 702-482-5355. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. As a judge. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. power plants. Bartlett House. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. ore bins. Located on the north edge of town. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. which dates to 1906. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. The museum is open daily. Mineral. In 1911. slide show and research facilities.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. see below under On Foot. For more information.
restaurant and Native American gift shop. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. however. Victorian furniture. % 702-945-5142. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. (See On Water. a combination truck stop. the town boasted 1. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. just three miles from the California border. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. Nevada seat and the Mono . Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. wildlife and fossils. Admission is free. and by 1890 the good times were over. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. paved road on the right. fire and railroad equipment. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. % 702-945-3266.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. The museum is open Monday through Friday. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County.000. at the corner of 10th and D streets. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. To see where it all started. cameras and photography. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. Take this road six miles to the town. below.) Before heading to the lake. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. To reach Candelaria. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. Near the northern tip of the lake. The main attraction. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. noon to 4 PM in winter.000 residents. rocks. is nearby Walker Lake. The Mineral County Museum. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. 898 E Street.500 people. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. minerals. At the zenith of its existence. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
From . but travel is not advised during winter months. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. along with many other events. is open year-round.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water.200 feet. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. Boats are not recommended. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. % 702-728-4467. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. The park. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. pinyon and juniper forests. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. set at 5. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. native plants and unique rock formations. The 2. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. There are 42 campsites. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. From Caliente. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. below). Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. All of them offer overnight camping. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. For information on any or all. located in a long.
Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. There are 37 campsites. Packed with historic points of interest. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. men in black and all things conspiratorial. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. The original building costs totaled $16. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. Winter travelers might also find snow here. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. government cover-ups. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town.000. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. for a walking/driving tour map. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. From Caliente.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. All told. true believers theorize. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. they ran up to $1 million. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. % 702-962-5215. hazy afternoon.
Memorial Day through Labor Day only. % 702-729-2515. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. sleeping quarters. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. If you’re in the neighborhood. or fish lizards. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. The park is open all year. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. including the old mill. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. a bar and cemetery. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. a thought scarier than any little green men. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. Ichthyosaurs. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. selling souvenirs and literature.
to NV 884. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. following a stream into Trail Canyon. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. deer. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. The trail seems faint at times. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park.140 feet. The trail climbs nearly 2.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. travel west six miles to NV 773. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. the highest point in Nevada at 13. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. mountain lion. To reach the park from Hawthorne. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. through Gabbs. There are numerous access points to the 115. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. From here go seven miles to a junction. where desert bighorn sheep. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. June. call % 702-867-3001. Return the way you came. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. The hike begins on the road. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. up through the sparse forest of . turn right. August. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. October and November. elk. For more information. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle.000 feet in 3½ miles. July. then half a mile east. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. From here. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. Located in the relatively dry. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. April. Interpretive tours are held in March.
meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. too. About a mile and a half later. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. the trail gains 1. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Consult Toms Canyon.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak.020-foot Peavine Peak. and at higher elevations. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. Pine Creek.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. About 500 yards beyond the mill. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. The path descends further. USGS quads for Carvers NW. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. up and up alongside the South Twin River. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. limber pine. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. where it crosses the water several times. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast.361-foot Arc Dome. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. . From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. nine miles from the trailhead. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). The main trail leads straight ahead. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. another narrow. The 38. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. pinyon pine and juniper.
then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson.949 feet above sea level. mountain lion. From Tonopah. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. 11. going west. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. The summit trail. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. is lined with aspen and birch. deer and coyote. which marks the way to Pine Creek. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. In fact. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. Return the way you came. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. literally and figuratively. Turn left and head toward the highest point. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. The high point. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. After turning west.000 years ago. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. .184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. south. which tops out at 11. It was used as a hunting camp 5. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. is imposing Mount Jefferson.
were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. From the trailhead. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. Hikers should have maps and a compass. To complete a nice loop hike. Elk. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory . turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. As you’ll see. This is remote. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. The 98. and the skills to use them. set aside in 1989. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland.000 acres. The main trail continues straight ahead. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. rugged country. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. The trail first splits at mile three. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake.856foot Monitor Peak. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. with Dry Lake off to the west. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. climbing up the creek drainage. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. so travel with care.
1997. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. then descending into Ash Canyon. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. % 702-4826286. crosses the water and begins a steep. Wilderness Press. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. some will lead hikes and photography trips. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. then continue south two miles back to the campground. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. Also close by.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. Meanwhile. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Enjoy the views. . The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. refer to Michael C. Once atop the plateau. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. in Echo Canyon State Park. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. White’s masterful book.
) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. 89447. Lund Gary Luisetti. Smith.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. Yerington Marty S. 8½ miles from US 95. 27 Smith Gage Road. Round Mountain William A. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. Just beyond the right-of-way. Timberline Outfitters. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. 89045. PO Box 162. PO Box 168. Timberline Outfitters. Nicholas Perchetti. unmarked hike to the summit. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. Howard. which. at 9. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. % 702-283-7797. Jr. PO Box 725. . (If you pass Millers. % 702-964-1207. Galvin. Grand Slam Safaris. PO Box 1149. 89430. The road turns east briefly. % 702-463-4497. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. then continues south to a junction.108 feet. 89049. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. % 702-964-2145. climbing into a small valley. 89049. % 702-482-6258. Expeditions Unlimited. % 702-482-6422. Lewis. PO Box 428. 89045. Mustang Outfitters. Stahl. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. 89025. you’ve gone too far. Roy Lerg. 89317. turn left and head due south. HCR 60.. % 702-465-2598. James S. PO Box 65. leaving a strenuous. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. Moapa Adam R. Berg. Box 77206. Mason Valley Guide Service.
A few dozen people still live in the area. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. however. The other ruins are on private property. Manhattan boomed. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. Just north of Pine Creek. For road conditions. % 702-482-6331.000 to construct in 1876. which was first settled in the 1860s. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). Continuing north. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. % 702377-2490. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. is open for business on weekends. known for abundant wildlife. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. so keep your distance. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. and Pine Creek. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. The Belmont Saloon. Belmont saw most of the 2. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909.
the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. to establish missions. % 702-482-7800.2 mile west of Lockes going south. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. Take an unpaved road . A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. mountain mahogany and aspen. Wilson National Back Country Byway. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. . the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. For more information contact the BLM. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. but check on road conditions before you go. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. Continuing north. Not only is the water very hot. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. The springs are half a mile away. From Pioche. Pioneer Territory Mt.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. stay out. As tempting as a bath might seem. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. then part of Utah Territory. the fauna changes to ponderosa.
you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. At Oakridge Landing. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. % 702727-4504. 13.140-foot Boundary Peak.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. brown. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. contact the BLM. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. Just a mile north of Dyer. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. Two of the best spots are Peavine . % 702-727-8276. Information Sources For more information and a map. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. cutthroat and rainbow trout. 5340 South Oakridge Road. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. % 702289-4865. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek.
Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. rainbow and brown trout. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). April. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. . October and November. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. The lake is named for Joe Walker. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. After the road peters out. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons.000 acres. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. however. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. % 702-482-6286. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. In fact. Fishing derbies are held in February. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened.7 miles north of Hawthorne). with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18.4 miles). Covering 37. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. picnic facilities and boat ramp. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9.
about 13 miles south of the confluence. % 760-872-2533 . Kathleen L. are the main attraction here. Bishop. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. but motors are prohibited. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory.000 acres. NV 89415. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. while Canada geese.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. write the group at PO Box 867. Contact the refuge office. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Howe. Classic Anglers. Hawthorne. for details. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. CA. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. 633 Schley Street. Brown trout. Boaters are welcome. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. largemouth bass and white crappie. % 702-725-3417. which are stocked in spring and fall. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. % 702-394-4040. 93514. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation).
PO Box 1149. PO Box 65. Jr. % 702-964-2145. % 702-964-1207. Advance reservations are highly suggested. PO Box 168. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Tonopah Stanley R. 1220 South Highway 160. 89045. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. Mason Valley Guide Service. PO Box 725. Stahl. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. 89049. 89447. % 702-482-6258. Box 77206. % 702-3721717.. Timberline Outfitters. Galvin. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. home on the range. Berg. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Timberline Outfitters. James S. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. 89104. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. Mustang Outfitters. 89049. % 702-889-8844. at least temporarily. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. The big enchilada is Saddle West. Howard. HCR 60. Suite 9B. The family-style outings. 89045. % 702-482-6422. Nicholas Perchetti.
has 32 rooms. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. a casino with live 21. a restaurant. % 702553-2912. % 702-553-2333. The Exchange Club Motel. 9000 North 5th Avenue. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. non-smoking rooms and a pool. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. including a heated pool. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. $-$$. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. $-$$. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. $-$$. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. $. which has 30 rooms and a pool. % 702-727-5445. . including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. % 800-508-9493. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. The other two motels are the El Portal. Highway 160 at Loop Road. $-$$. was built in 1905. lounge. There are 60 rooms. % 702-727-5100. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. along with a pool and honeymoon room. A lounge with live entertainment. $. though. % 702-553-2250. With 110 rooms. $-$$. 1201 South Highway 160. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. In short. Don’t worry. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. $-$$. $-$$. hair salon. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. 604 Main Street. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. US 95 at First Street. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. while the inn offers laundry services. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. 420 West Main Street. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. % 702-4853431. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. casino and lounge. % 702-553-2225. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. a convenience store. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. $-$$.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season.
$. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. RV hookups. 1 Cliff House Road. with a restaurant. 255 Main Street. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. % 702-482-6291. If you’re into chains. % 702482-5920. The .Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. It has 94 rooms. a Jacuzzi and a pool. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. $. $-$$. % 702-482-3511. the Butler has 25 rooms. RV parking and free continental breakfast. has been catering to travelers since 1943. % 702-945-3321. % 702-945-3352. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. This place has it all: 75 rooms. with 40 rooms. pool and free in-room coffee. $. $$. 1301 5th Street. location. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. Even dogs are welcome. free movies and is close to the convention center. restaurants. There are 103 rooms. two restaurants. Dating back to 1908. has 39 rooms. a restaurant and free coffee. including four two-bedroom units. comes highly rated. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. $. % 702-482-3577. % 702-482-6238. The Jim Butler Motel. 100 South Main Street. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. lounge with entertainment. 1402 5th Street. $. $$. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. 521 North Main Street. 826 Main Street. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. a heated pool and a small play area. a casino. also has a pool. arcade and laundry. % 702-945-2444. % 702-482-6202. $. $. 323 Main Street. Adjacent to Walker Lake. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. % 702-945-2660. a casino. Location. 700 Main Street. Just a block away. at very reasonable rates. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. lounge. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. workout equipment. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. and the sprawling Station House. 100 North Main Street. Some of the larger. $. which has 93 rooms. and the 33-room Clown Motel. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. % 702-482-9777. The Best Western Desert Lodge. $. 540 F Street. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. a restaurant and bar. % 702-482-6224. 1100 Main Street. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment.
a pair of family-style restaurants. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. various restaurants. % 702-463-2998. % 800-621-0187. . RV park and four bungalows. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. Jacuzzi. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. $$-$$$. $. has 67 rooms. 390 North Sandhill Road. bars. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. live entertainment. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. 39 North Center Street. on the corner of 5th and J streets. a pool and a hot tub. has five rooms. $. 301 Mesa Boulevard. $$-$$$. 720 Sierra Highway. a golf course. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. The Casa Blanca. formerly Players Island. Jacuzzi. % 800-896-4567. Run by the Masini family. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. $$-$$$. which has two non-smoking rooms. $-$$.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. 2827 Highway 208. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. $-$$$. which has 14 rooms. % 702-945-2143. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702-465-2341.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. % 702-465-2573. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West.900 or so residents. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. Jacuzzi. family fun center and an airport shuttle. $-$$. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. $-$$. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. $. $$. $$. the Hawthorne. which at last count had 1. tennis courts. % 702-463-2481. % 702-945-3316.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. a 925-seat showroom. movie theater and kids’ play area. including dozens of suites. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. Just west of Smith in Wellington. golf course. restaurants. % 800-346-7721. $. pool. $-$$. pool and movie theater. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. % 702-465-2959. airport shuttle. To find a quieter environment. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. and the Rocket. 694 Sierra Highway. pool. with a 24-hour casino. 11 North Main Street. % 702-346-7444. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. pool and spa. entertainment. bowling alley. with blueprints for hundreds more. 965 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-2544. % 702-945-2573. fitness center and live music. a lounge. % 800-346-4611. which has 14 rooms. $$. a pool. has 700 rooms. % 702-463-2991.
% 702-962-5551. has 13 rooms. % 702-726-3291. and welcomes pets. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. % 702-729-2515. which has five rooms. $-$$. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. % 702-726-3106. $. % 702-727-7300. $-$$. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. % 702-727-2404. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. which has 22 rooms.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. the Silver Spur. $. also have full-service restaurants.99. a restaurant and bar. % 702726-3777. 1220 South Highway 160. is open 24 hours a day. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. 884 A Street. % 702-9625404. $. Stagestop Casino. 601 South Highway 160. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. Flying saucer parking is out back. . is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. No fast food. and the buffet starts at $2. 100 West Stagecoach Road. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. % 702-727-6440. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. % 702-727-7777. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. pharmacy and bank. 100 LaCour Street. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. Besides. % 702-751-7777. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. % 702-727-0909. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. Rose Garden. $. At Saddle West Casino. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. 450 Front Street.
while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. The Station House. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. 11 North Main Street. including excellent seafood. Yerington Casino West. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. fill the menu. also has a 24-hour café.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. Maggies. 348 North Main Street. % 702482-9777. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. is the home of two restaurants. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. % 702-945-3908. and Burro Inn. has a great $7. % 702-5532225. 100 North Main Street. 785 E Street. 570 E Street. % 702-553-2368. 1100 Main Street. you could do worse than El Marques. 501 I Street. % 702-482-6202. % 702-945-5253. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. The . If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. Traditional American and Continental fare. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. try Happy Buddha. The Exchange Club. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. % 702-945-3321. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. % 702-945-2727.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. open until 9 PM. also have family-style restaurants. % 702-945-3320. % 702-463-2481. % 702-553-2111. % 702-4823885. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. 540 F Street. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. % 702-945-1700. 923 5th Street. % 800508-9493. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. % 702-9452994. 1291 5th Street.
n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. Carl’s Burgers. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. 11 North ALT 95. % 702-7263194. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. serves breakfast. There’s even an indoor workout facility. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. % 702-4623300. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. The Mason Valley Country Club. 2281 West Scales Way. Dini’s Luck Club. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. % 702-4633707.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. % 702463-2868. % 800-621-0187. % 702-463-2054. 45 North Main Street. along with the usual buffet. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. satisfying and never-ending. Peavine Campground is set at 6. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. has a 24-hour coffee shop. which serves breakfast. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. The Casa Blanca. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. To reach the campground from Tonopah. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. 702-726-3138. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. % 800-346-7721. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. The Virgin River Hotel. Two blocks up. 111 Highway 208. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . % 800-896-4567. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. lunch and dinner. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. % 702-727-2314. is like a blast from the 50s.
For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle.700 feet. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. To reach the campground from Tonopah. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek.800 feet in the Monitor Range. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. % 702-945-3373. contact the BLM. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. To reach the campground from Tonopah. From Tonopah. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. % 702-4826286. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. see On Foot. % 702-687-6100. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. From here.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. offers sites for $11 per night. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. There are 11 sites set at 6. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. through Belmont. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast.100foot level. providing access to fishing and hiking. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. the unpaved road goes south briefly. For information. There is no running water and no fee. For directions. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. above. The campground is another three miles away. .
AAA California/Nevada TourBook. They are listed in alphabetical order. 1995. 1990. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. published by the State of Nevada. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. 1993. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. 1998. Basin and Range by John McPhee. American Automobile Association. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. American Automobile Association. 1993. David Communications. 1994. Moon Publishing.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. Noonday Press. 1997. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. 1996. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. DeLorme. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Frank Amato Publications. Henry Holt and Company. Suggested Reading . 1995. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. Falcon Press Publishing. 1997. Falcon Press Publishing.
Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. 1993. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. 1997. Mojave Books. Maturi. 1997. 1993. Falcon Press Publishing. White. Bischoff. Wilderness Press. . Falcon Press Publishing. Legend and Description by David J. 1997. The Globe Pequot Press. Gem Guides Book Company. 1995. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Stolley. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. La Siesta Press. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner.. 1969. Jr. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. American & Geographic World Publishing. 1992. Clark.
144. restaurants. 193-197. 174-175 Austin. 89. Pony Express territory. 144 backpacking. restaurants. 124 auto racing. 75-76. 132-133. transportation. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. see water sports car rental. 154 animal life. 102. Pioneer territory. 198. 103. accommodations. biking. 15-16 bird watching. 118. 49. Bonneville Salt Flats. 168-169. 179. Leonard Rock Shelter. 67-70. 119-120. Reno-Tahoe area. 142. 78 BLM. 85. camping. 179. 17. 152. Las Vegas territory. Reno-Tahoe area. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 13. 77. see also zoos. 174 canoeing. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. skydiving. 104-107. 115. see also petroglyphs. 126. events. camping. 193 Aurora. 197. Las Vegas. wagon trips. 184. 26-27 buses. hiking outfit- Index . 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 50-52. 104. Pony Express territory. camping. 155 boating. 169-170 Anasazi people. 123. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. festivals. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 48-49. 54-55. 15-16. 120-123. accommodations.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. Lovelock Indian Cave. price scale. Mount Jefferson. 185. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 41-43. 146. touring. 131. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. Pony Express territory. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 35. 46. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. outfitters. 193. 118. fishing. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 2. camping. 13-15. 132. 76. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 92-96. special events. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 94-95. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). hiking. wild. 182. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 28. 198. 32. Cottonwood Valley. 3135. 125-128. horseback riding. Pioneer territory. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. see transportation air tours. camping. 199-201. 169. 29. 137 Candelaria. 199. see transportation Carson City. Las Vegas area. 181-182. 27 books. 186 Belmont. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. biking. 15-16. 144. 117-118. 10-12. 200 altitude sickness. 192 Big Smoky Valley. touring. 142. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 135. restaurants. 121. 152. pictographs art galleries. biking. 129-130 bungee jumping. specific towns airlines. 10. restaurants. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 43-44. 91 Barley Creek. touring. 194. Pioneer territory. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 117. see also camping. 115-116 ballooning. 182-183. 164. 194. fishing. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 34-35 Boundary Peak. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 17. safety rules. 113. 183-184. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 187-190. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 67 bowling. hiking. touring. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 86. 200 Basque people. 27. Reno-Tahoe area. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. safety rules. see also hiking Baker: accommodations.183. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 36. 163-164. 187-190. events. 42 burros. 156160. 187-188 biking. 117-119. 8386. Elko. Ichthyosaur State Park. 38. 78.
125. 143. see events fish. 46 Comstock Lode. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 176. 170. 179. 152-155. auto racing. 17. 119. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 179. Pony Express territory. sport-climbing ratings. 18-19 climbing. touring. 143-144. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 4. 155. Metropolis. 139 cruises. 65 gambling. 87 Dayton. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. Rochester Mining District. fishing. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 15-16 Fremont. 97. 180 Earth Connections. 3. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. 73. 185. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. springfish. 175 climate. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. pupfish. 67. 194-195. 174. 44-48. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. Dunn Hatchery. Lehman Caves. skiing. 109. 170. 192. 119. 190-193. Midas. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 108 events: Cowboy country. 82. Pioneer territory. 109. 160 Goshute Mountains. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 86. Las Vegas territory. 112 Genoa. 98. 150-151. 116-117. 117. restaurants. 178. 13-15. Lovelock Indian Cave. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 184. Reno-Tahoe area. Cowboy country. 169. Reno-Tahoe territory. 125. hiking. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 102-104. 177. outfitters. 121-122. 89. 79. outfitters. outfitters. 126-127. hiking outfitters. 171-172 Gold Point. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. Jungo. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 172 golf. 80. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 110. Northumberland Cave. safety rules. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 121. 149-150. 119-120. camping. transportation. 112. Shermantown. 120-121. restaurants. 174-175. camping. camping. 127. Candelaria. accommodations. Camp Winfield Scott. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. horseback riding. 6-7 ters. 111. 88. 109 Glacier Trail. 125. 137. 137.. 131. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 200 Cowboy Country. 168. Samuel. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 122-123. 4-5 Gardnerville. restaurants. Hamilton. Las Vegas area. 182. 139. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 120.5 Cathedral Gorge. see water sports dog-sledding trips. camping. 144. 126. 40. 15-16. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 77. 132-133. Pioneer territory. 137. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 29. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 188-189 Clemens. fishing. 138-139. 35-36. 106. Toquima Cave. Gold Center.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. camping. 163-164. 22. accommodations. 157-158. 109. 118. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. Lake Tahoe area. 142 Great Basin. fishing. 124. camping. 190 . 43-44. 75. 179. mercury warnings. 161-162. 176. 112. restaurants. touring. 116. special events. 177. 74. events. Rhyolite. Las Vegas area. 134-135. 155-156. 75. 171. biking. John C. 142. 187-190. 170-171 Denio Junction. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 83. Eberhardt. 186 elk. 37-41. hiking. 115 Gold Center. 152. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. touring. fishing. 106 diving. 74 Death Valley National Park. hiking. 185. outfitters. 14 Colorado River. 98 fossils. 179. 167. accommodations. camping. 70-71. 137. touring. 139140 Ely. 12. 147-148 Eberhardt. 78 casinos. 12. 188-189 fishing. Treasure City. 70. 100. restaurants. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 153 Chimney Springs. camping. touring.
78-79 Jungo. 83. Las Vegas territory. 162. Pony Express territory. 52-53. 166. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 118 Lone Mountain. 4WD trail. Pony Express territory. 153. 32-33 Lake Mohave. camping. 28. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 151. Walley’s Hot Springs. 91 information sources. 24. 55. 110-112. 47. 118. 54. 120 Incline Village. Reno. 149-150. 148-149 jeep tours. 188-189. events. 31-35. camping. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 152. 39 history: Cowboy country. 23-29. camping. hiking. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 140-141 land. Las Vegas territory. 88. 164. transportation. 148-149 Humboldt River. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 48. touring. air tours. 46. 37-40. 47 lakes. Reno-Tahoe territory. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 36. restaurants. 57. 40. 149. snow sports outfitters. accommodations. 101. 116-117. 90. transportation. touring. 160. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. restaurants. touring and transportation. 29-31. 106. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. state. 107. hiking outfitters. touring. touring. touring. 83. Nevada. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. hiking. events. horseback riding. balloning and soaring. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. camping. 77. 163. touring. 83-84. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. RenoTahoe territory. camping. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 130. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 43. 21-22. description of. 50-52. 187 Manhattan. restaurants. 82. 179 Kingston. 176. special events. 82. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. restaurants. 177 mercury warnings. 45. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 37-41. 150. 80-81 hiking. 137 kayaking.Index Great Basin National Park. 200-201. transportation. 159. 127. camping. 193. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 65. 46. water sports. 102. 86. 181-187. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 75. 158. fishing. Pony Express territory. outfitters. 78. biking. hiking. 63-66. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 91-92. 38. skiing. 98. 103 Hamilton. boating outfitters. 132 Lexington Arch. 13-15. 49-50. Midas Hot Spring. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. Reno-Tahoe territory. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 99-100. outfitters. restaurants. 32-33. 90 helicopter tours. fishing. skiing. 66. 156. see air tours Hemenway Park. Pioneer territory. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 129-131. Kyle Hot Spring. outfitters. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. 146. 39. 1. 41-43. 192. 165-167. Las Vegas. 62. 41. Pioneer territory. Pioneer territory. 46. 117 hotels. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. restaurants. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. watersports. 64. 3536. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 60. 119 Index . touring. 111. 79. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 93. camping. 198. 48-49. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 53-54. 125. Las Vegas area. map. hiking outfitters. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 112-117. 64. 186-187. hiking. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 195-196. 40-41. 145-150. 57-58. 32 horseback riding. 44 Las Vegas territory. 141-142. 150. biking. camping. 162. Cowboy country. 20.
199. 26. 163. 29. see biking mountain biking. 189-190 Muir. Stewart Indian Museum. 170. Nevada Historical Society. 200 motels. Desert Valley Museum. 174. 193-194. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 180 Minden: events. 103. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 33. Mark Twain Museum. Central Nevada Museum. 173. 43. 177. fishing. 199 Metropolis. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 139. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 77. 26. 25. 171. 72. 61. restaurants. 109. 107. 102. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. Keck Minerals Museum. 71. fishing. 2. 34. Brewery Arts Center. 25. 2. 26. 153. 107. 23 Overton: touring. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 142. The Castle. see biking Mount Charleston. 73. 134 petroglyphs. 11 Mosquito Creek. skiing and snowboarding. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 71. 133. 75. Guinness World of Records Museum. 108. 4. 25. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 61. outfitters. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 69. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 67. Marzen House Museum. hiking outfitters. Mineral County Museum. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. Marshall Mint Museum. 142 Midas. 26. accommodations. John. Capitol Building and Museum. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 72-73. 165 nuclear waste. 167-168 Paiutes. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. White Pine Public Museum. 32. 199-200. 197-198. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 86. 188. 83. touring. 98. camping. Roberts House Museum. 68. restaurants. 135. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 61. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 200. 61 music and theater. 78. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. 73. 29 Mount Jefferson. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 171. 73. 69. 70-71 mines and mining. 70. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 153 Northumberland Cave. 183. 165. touring. horseback riding. 73. hiking. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 4. 187 Mojave Desert. 174. 158. Northeastern Nevada Museum.206 n Index seum. 61. 2. 139. 69. National Automobile Museum. 80-81 Native American festivals. May Museum and Arboretum. 109-110. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. Fleischmann Planetarium. 174. Virginia & Truckee Depot. Clark County Heritage Museum. 34. 35. 8. Wilbur D. 106 nuclear testing. 173. 25. 69. 34. 181 Moapa. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. Humbolt Museum. 73. touring. Nevada State Library & Archives. Lost City Museum. 196197. 177. 3-4. 10. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 8182 Mesquite. 79. Western Folklife Center. 127 pictographs. Colorado River Museum. 25. 31. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. Nevada State Mu- . 69. Las Vegas Art Museum. 23. Liberace Museum. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. Genoa Courthouse Museum. Nevada State Railroad Museum. Piper’s Opera House. 71. hiking. fishing. 91. 25-26. 173. camping. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. Lyon County Muserum. 135136. 175. 126. 68. see accommodations motorcycles. 175. 178. 34. 177. 106 Pine Creek: camping. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 68. 43. The Way It Was Museum.
48-49 snowboarding. special events. 179. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. fishing. 9 Sand Mountain. Pony Express territory. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 92-93. Las Vegas area. 90 soaring. outfitters. 145-146 prostitution. camping. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 123-125. 106 Spooner Lake. 98. 17. 117. 154. 112. 12. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 169 Pyramid Lake. 9697. fishing. restaurants. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 180 Pioneer territory. 173 Index . 193. climbing and hiking. horse. 9-10. biking. see climbing rock hunting. fishing. 80 pronghorn antelope. 195. RenoTahoe area. 52 pupfish. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 36. 160-163. 88. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 156. see events Round House Art Gallery. hiking. 145 Stateline: accommodations. restaurants. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. accommodations. 13 Price Lakes. Reno-Tahoe area. 144. touring. 89. motorcycle. 138 rock climbing. 17. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 89-91 skydiving. 54. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 186-187. 104. 53-54. see skiing snowmobiling. 76. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. see mines and mining skiing. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 83-84. 144. Pioneer territory. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 193. 197-199. 115. 197. camping. 77. 84-85 swimming. 185-186. fishing. 78.Index Pioche: accommodations. hiking and climbing. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. fishing. hiking. 79-80. Las Vegas territory. 106 Siegel. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 170 rivers. 96-97. 84. 163-164. 98. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 17. 76. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. skiing. 93-94. hiking. restaurants. transportation. 143 Rachel. 54. 49-50. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. touring. 142. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 153 Sparks. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 78. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. skiing. snow sports outfitters. 197 rafting. 87. 59-61. camping. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 91. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 85. 200 temperature chart. 109 Shoshone people. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. bike. touring. 79. 90 sport climbing. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. Benjamin “Bugsy. 65 Pony Express territory. camping. 26-27. 146. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 176 rodeos. 179 Searchlight. 42. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 134. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 143. 144. 163. water sports. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 150-151. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 180. 181. 82. camping. 146-147. 129-130. 190. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 77-78. 165-201 plant life. hiking.” 4 silver. 94 special events. biking. touring. 88 Shermantown. 76. 198. 187. 66. biking. 74 races. 114-115 theater. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. accommodations. 113. 167. see climbing springfish. auto. 17. 163. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. see events price codes.
Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 102. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 68. 44-48. Winnemucca. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 176. 76. 71. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. Pony Express territory. Las Vegas territory. 77-78. 150. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. buses. fishing. 134 Twain. 168 zoos. touring. Ruby Marsh. 104. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 176 wineries.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. wildlife and bird watching. hiking. 155. outfitters. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. 159-160. 66. 95. 155 . 29-30. 139. 80-81. 31. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 157. restaurants. 25 Topaz Lake. Reno-Tahoe territory. 62. hiking outfitters. restaurants. 144. 32. 85. 143. Walker Lake. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 191-192. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 26-27. touring. events. 147-148. touring. 73. restaurants. 41. camping. 145-146. Mark. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. Table Mountain Wilderness. 190-193. 164. 191 UFOs. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. touring. 127. 183-184. 152-155. Amtrak. camping. 127. hiking. 163-164. 33. 61. Wilson Canyon. hiking outfitters. 146. 199. 75. fishing. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. 149. Lake Mead. Pioneer territory. 179. camping. 193. 160-161. Arc Dome Wilderness. 192. Pioneer territory. Santa Rosa Mountains. 29. 187. 31. 86 Wells: accommodations. 83. 176 Yerington: accommodations. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 62. 112. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 162. 196. 155. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. camping. 38. 168-169. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 39 vineyards. 30-31. camping. Cleve Creek Campground. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. touring. special events. restaurants. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 142 Wendover: accommodations. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 167. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 89. 151 Wilson Canyon. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 135-137. 111. 143. climbing and hiking. 200-201. touring. outfitters. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. see plant life tufas. Echo Canyon State Park. 67. outfitters. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. 62. 79-80. hiking. 55. 34-35. 174. restaurants. 109 trees. 172. 71-74 Virgin River. horseback riding. 117 Toquima Cave. Earth Connections. 20. 119-120. 159. see transportation transportation: airports. 156-157. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 150. 45. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 188-189. 177. 178. 174 walking. Goshute Mountains. 151 Wovoka. Ruby Mountains. 193 Walker Lake. 117. 144. 80. events. 182-183. 139-140 Treasure City. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. events. 97. 163. 110. camping. 106 trains. High Rock Canyon. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. 35. 153-154. water sports. rental cars. Hemenway Park. Jack’s Valley Road. 98. 185.