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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
According to author John Hart. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. half-pound hot dogs. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. pausing on . which covers most of Nevada. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. In fact.” and for good reason. you can have the whole wild.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. giant sloths. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. In fact. These mammoths. you’ll know better. Among the 50 states. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. Florida. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands.500 and 10. as the top tourism destination in the US. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. however. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. About 27 million of them. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. horses. that’s good news. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. bison. For anyone who loves the outdoors. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska.
followed in Garces’ footsteps. the first European entered Nevada. hand tools. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. points.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. fish hooks. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. In the south. however. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. wetlands and springs. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. Exactly 50 years later. In 1776. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. shells. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. Many prime archeological sites. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. His party wintered in California. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. Jedediah Smith. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. By about 500 AD. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. established trade routes. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. The Northern Paiutes. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. . In the 12th century. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. including southern Nevada.
They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. but the Utah Territory government. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. which helped open the gateway to the West. John C. encountering Pyramid Lake. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. was dispatched to map the area. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. In 1845. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. covering most of Utah and Nevada. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. Eight years later the first wagon train. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. dominated by the church. swelling the population well into five figures. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. In 1830. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. In 1833. the church established the State of Deseret. Nevada became a state on Halloween. In 1859.History n 3 In the north. continued to oversee Nevada. as it came to be called. Introduction . the Mormons were the first white residents. but abandoned it two years later. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. and. In 1843 and ’44. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. By 1857. camping at Las Vegas. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. and headed over the Sierras. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. DC. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. who would later become a war hero. Fremont. with Brigham Young as governor. In 1849. 1864. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. then returned east along the route the next year. The Comstock Lode. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada.
industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. signed a treaty with the federal government. Streets were laid out. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. Howard Hughes sud- . A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. upscale Vegas. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. Siegel’s vision. Then in 1966. Winnemucca. then picked up again in the early 1900s. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. later known as the Nevada Test Site. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. In 1874. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. began making money and the boom was on. Ironically. In the teens and ’20s. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. then underground tests for 30 more. Meanwhile. killed two-thirds of them. but was ambushed. In 1873. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. was of a classy. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. opened in 1950. In 1855. the first true hotel-casino. the mother of all lodes. son of Winnemucca. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time.000 people in 1960. the Flamingo soon reopened. bringing town sites. was struck in Virginia City. chief of the Northern Paiutes. commerce and industry. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. Reno and the surrounding areas. Warriors under Numaga. however. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. Carson City. particularly in southern Nevada. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. violence escalated. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. In 1860. the Big Bonanza.
trappers. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. But the explosion has not been without fallout. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. miners. DC. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. and Americans have become moths to the flame. a land dominated by a mobile population. How much is too much. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. This time. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. are reaping the windfall. . The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. To many. find enough water. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. Mom and their 2. Winnemucca. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. By 1970. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. today there are master-planned communities. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. places like Elko. however. Fallon and Mesquite. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. moving to the region in record numbers. The entire West will be watching what transpires. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development.
Nevada even has its own 10. Fremont in 1844. Wheeler Peak. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Yes. towers over Great Basin National Park. down a range. Near Las Vegas. reservoirs and other watery bodies. 13. Depending on who’s counting. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. and so on. The notion of Nevada as a flat. with nine ranges topping 11. Get the idea? After all.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. The roof of Nevada is 13. In fact. Named by explorer John C.000 feet. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. On the other side of the state. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. down another range. Here. then disappear into their respective “sinks. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers.000 feet in the space of a few miles. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. The Colorado River . there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. dry. across a sagebrush-covered basin. gurgle through the northern part of the state.063 feet.839foot Matterhorn.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. the Carson and the Humboldt. hills and uplands.000 feet to nearly 12. lakes.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. then up another range. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. In the north.
only 65. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead.000 acres. a great inland sea that 50.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. Lower and drier. are the only reliable. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . which empty into Lake Mead from the north. it’s an uphill climb all the way. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. natural sources of running water. In the 1970s. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. the southeastern corner of Nevada. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. most notably Lake Tahoe. For the greens. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. the largest alpine lake in North America. establishing 77.000 years ago covered 8. including Las Vegas and Laughlin.500 square miles of western Nevada. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery.000-acre Great Basin National Park. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. In 1989. in the remote north near Jarbidge. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985.
it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). greasewood. Apart from aspens. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. is generally found throughout the state between 5. the soil supports . Still. 14 national recreation areas.000 feet. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles.000 feet above sea level. such as rabbitbrush. with its tiny. The recommendations have been under review for years. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. horsebrush and shadescale. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them.000 and 8. Death Valley. The squat Utah juniper. At elevations above 6.
with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. up to 5. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. western white pine. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. lodgepole pine. along with alder. The rare. ponderosa pine. The Joshua tree. creosote bush has an oily. which is actually a type of yucca. however. Above the desert floor. willow and dogwood. The king of Great Basin vegetation.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. which make up just 1% of the land. the official state grass. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. In the mountains. blooms by night here. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. or jimson weed. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions.000 years. Black bears. hallucinogenic sacred datura. hedgehog and barrel. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. bristlecone pine. prickly pear. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. At the other extreme. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. Washoe pine.000 feet. the mountain lion. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia.
weasel. redtailed hawk. Blacktail jackrabbits. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. with Lahontan cutthroat. Trout are the favorite of anglers. while mule deer are abundant. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. Gambel’s quail. golden and Dolly Varden . It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. skunk. pika. Meanwhile. beaver. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. brook. help comes from hunters. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. seen on Nevada’s license plates. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. In the air over the desert. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. burrowing owl and canyon wren. fox. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. brown. also live in the Mojave. America’s two poisonous spiders. Ironically. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. kangaroo rats. coyote. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. rainbow. prairie falcon. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. greater roadrunner. chuckwalla. the black widow and brown recluse. badger. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. Snakes include several types of rattlers. The desert bighorn sheep.
on water. broken down by specific locales. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. on land. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. culture and most attractive features. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. A section on Touring follows. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. covering its history. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. This section also includes sources for expert information. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. on snow and in the air. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. Along with detailed information on where to go. like almost every other Nevada visitor. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. Reno-Tahoe Territory. such as visitors bureaus. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . Cowboy Country.
. . . . . . $50 to $100 $$$ . . . forethought and patience. . . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . . $100 to $175 $$$$ . . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. Up to $50 per day $$ . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. Hiking. . . . . . . Trails may be gone. trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . . . . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . . . . . . . Backpacking. The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. .12 n Introduction ing chart. Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. . . . . . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . Finally. so use these symbols only as a general reference. . .
there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one.0 to .Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. . For Class 5 routes.Boulder hopping. Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency.14 (and sometimes beyond).Easy hiking. the lower numbers (. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.Climbing.Adventures n 13 Finally.0 to . The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. the most popular among serious rock climbers. As this guide goes to press. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . so help is usually a long way away.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . known as the Yosemite Decimal System. Class 2 . using the hands. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. occasionally using hands Class 4 . ranging from .Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .
not hard-and-fast rules. use common sense before you get into trouble. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. Give them descriptions of yourself.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded.10. climbing partners. Begin hiking early in the day. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. then amended by subsequent climbers. Always take fresh water with you. clothing. climbers enter the realm of myth. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. By their nature. Be aware of conditions. As with all outdoor activities. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. dehydration and lightning. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. Assistance can take hours or days. legend. taking into account personal experience. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. Beyond that. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. Storms are more common in the afternoon. Pack spare everything – food. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. n n n n n . until all holds disappear at . In the arid country of Nevada. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. If the plan changes. Don’t travel alone.
. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. high-clearance job. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. preferably one with a large gas tank. Not one of those trendy. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. extra gas. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. tools. water and fluids. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. jack. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. Arizona. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. spare belts. four-wheel-drive vehicle. but a powerful. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable.
n If you have water. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. stay on it. minimize talking and eating. Mountain biking in Nevada. drink it as needed. n If water is in limited supply. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. n If you find a traveled road. contact DARES. For more information on desert survival. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. left out of popular literature. Phoenix. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. 85096. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. AZ. of course. leave a note telling searchers who you are. . PO Box 39340. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. in wilderness areas). n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. The rest of Nevada. stay put. Do not ration water. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. is more popular than ever. however. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. when you left and where you are headed.
bringing high winds and unsafe conditions.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Many streams. And where there are tourists. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. but take extra care. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. there are tourists. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Ballooning. and gigantic Lake Mead. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. there are all types of sky-high adventures. lakes and reservoirs. Skydiving. Meanwhile. n In The Air Scenic Flights. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. At these higher elevations. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. Fishing. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . Soaring Where there is Vegas. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. the gem of the Sierras.
For those who like to watch. on the Colorado River. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. but despite the obvious danger. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. If thunderstorms threaten. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. Leave the high altitudes as well. . Summer and early fall can be blistering. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. Laughlin. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. Flashfloods are the predictable result. get out of lowlying areas. although they can occur at any time of year. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. These storms are known to appear with little warning. temperatures above 110° are common. throwing rain. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. In the Great Basin. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year.
www.travelnevada. Intermountain Region. 84401. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. Nevada Commission on Tourism. 1263 South Stewart Street. Reno. Carson City. . 850 Harvard Way. basin winters can be chilly. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. NV 89703. Nevada Division of State Parks. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. NV 89311. too. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. In southern Nevada. % 702-687-4384. % 801-625-5182.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. Reno. NV 89520. For information on specific locales. 324 25th Street. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. % 702-785-6500. Nevada Department of Transportation.com. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. NV 89710. windy. US Forest Service. % 800-NEVADA-8. rainy and occasionally snowy. Carson City. Bureau of Land Management. Nevada Division of Wildlife. % 702-687-4219. In the north. NV 89712. % 702234-7331. 1100 Valley Road. % 702-688-1500. In the mountains. Great Basin National Park. Ogden. Carson City. NV 89502. see the listings that accompany each chapter. 1300 South Curry Street. Baker. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. Capitol Complex. UT.
cheap food.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. closer. try hiking to an 11.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. in plain view of the casinos. Inside the city limits. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. . and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. lounge shows – and recently. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. both prehistoric and otherwise. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes.000-year-old petroglyphs. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1.000-foot peak. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday.50 for seniors. % 702-895-3011. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Admission is $4. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. Dedicated to Mr. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. but no less extravagant. % 702-895-3893. features work by students. Southeast of the Strip. % 702-798-5595. 1 PM to 5 PM. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. Just off the glittering Strip. is the Liberace Museum. call % 702-895-3801. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. Sunday. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest.95 for adults. % 702-363-1921. The museum is open Monday through Friday. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. 9 AM to 9 PM. faculty and invited artists. 8 AM to 5 PM.95 for seniors and students. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. Showmanship. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. $4. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. Ham Concert Hall. The tax-deductible admission is $6. Yes. $3. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . 4505 South Maryland Parkway. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts.95 for adults. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. 10 AM to 5 PM. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. giant. Seasonal streams. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. actual cosmopolitan. % 702-895-3381.
The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. (See below. trail rides and a “real” Western town. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. saloon. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. under Adventures on Foot. The restaurant and bar are open daily. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Charleston. 5 PM in the winter. % 702-875-4141.) The best time to take the 13-mile. 7 AM to dusk. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. Admission is $4. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). Back on US 95. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. later during summer months. one-way loop drive is early morning.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. the road to Mt. have been unearthed here. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. With structures dating back to 1864. The park is open daily. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. The park is open daily. Today there is a restaurant. The admission is $5 per vehicle. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. % 702-486-5413. 8 AM to 11 PM. wife of a German munitions tycoon. 8 AM to sunset. 8 AM to 5 PM. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. The park is open daily. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. petting zoo. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. % 702-875-4191.
Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. Charleston Lodge. the Mt. % 702-872-5500. under Adventures and Camping. In the winter. % 702-872-5408. Nevada’s state animal.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. elevation 11. The 1. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. under On Wheels. under Camping. may be spotted near water sources during the summer.) After the hike. 17-mile.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156.) Pitch a tent. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. % 702-646-3401. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. Charleston Hotel.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey.918 feet. (See below. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. At the northern edge of the reservation. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. (See below. % 702-872-7098. (See below. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. % 702385-2SKI.) .000 vertical feet of runs. completing the Mt. and its 1. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. desolate valley. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. under On Foot. Bighorn sheep. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. see below under On Snow. (See below. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. Charleston Loop.
% 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines.
% 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-654-7037 National. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-272-USAV Value.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. AA Auto Rentals.
% 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. On the north side of Boulder City.50 for adults. The museum is open daily. Gray Line Tours. stopping downtown. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. % 800-332-5333. 3150 Paradise Road. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. 711 East Desert Inn Road. NV 89109. Admission is $1. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 1830 South Boulder Highway.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. % 702-294-1888. $1 for seniors and children under 16.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. . Call % 800USA-RAIL. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. NV 89109. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Did it work? Judge for yourself. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. 444 Hotel Plaza. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. % 702-735-1616. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. % 702-455-7955.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas.
wetting 822 miles of shoreline.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. Hoover also created Lake Mead. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. Las Vegans. Phoenix and Los Angeles. boating and diving. % 702-565-8591. All of 726 feet high. head back toward Boulder City. 500 South Boulder Highway. swimming. Children under 10 are free. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. 660 thick at the base.) Be sure to heed the . Holding about 9 trillion gallons. % 702-293-2034. $2. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. fishing. 89005. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. 89105. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. for information on camping. 100 Nevada Highway. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. Hoover Dam took 5. and 45 feet thick at the top. % 702-293-8907. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. (See On Water below. The cost is $5 for adults. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center.
. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. Go straight to reach Henderson.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. nearly five miles off the highway. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. thank you. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. % 702-293-6180. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. Back on Nevada 167. then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. Just beyond the bay. The displays in the visitor center. Beyond here. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. % 702-397-2088. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). From the visitor center. a public swimming and boating area. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. which rests on the Virgin River. explain the geology and forces of erosion. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15.
Saturday. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. see below. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. % 520-754-3628. % 702-297-1464. a campground and marina. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. Admission is a $1 donation. Nevada’s record-high temperature. 9 AM to 5 PM. relives those days. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. % 702-297-1682.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. under Adventures. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. constructed his Riverside Casino. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. % 800-46-4584 . on Lake Mojave. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. campground and fishing and swimming spots. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff.000 visitors a month. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. The museum is open Monday through Friday. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. in Bullhead City. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. % 520-754-4606. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. the town was a gold. 9 AM to 1 PM.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. South of here is camping. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. % 520-754-3399. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. Named for a brand of matches. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. bar and bait shop. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. Arizona. 355 Highway 95. 125°. East of Searchlight 14 miles. with motel. % 520-754-3272. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. (For details on all three.
% 800-736-6247 United Express. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. 1555 South Casino Drive.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. host- . % 702-876-3380. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 800-227-5245. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 702-798-6405.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. % 800-227-5254. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. In Laughlin. % 310-448-1822. as many as 6. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. May is the busiest month. Special Events February In February.
October Art in the Park. % 800-227-5245. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. to downtown. a three-day balloon rally. Navaho and Mojave peoples. % 800-637-1006. % 702-4541212. a confluence of Southern Paiute. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. to town. take place in Boulder City.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. to the waters of Lake Mead. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. % 702-293-2034. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. to the campus of UNLV. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. takes place in Vegas. the Las Vegas Classic. % 702-631-7000. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. August In August. % 702-293-4857. the International Black Heritage Festival. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. % 702-898-6565. % 702687-5777. % 702-293-1611. the Parade of Lights. blows in. also takes place in October. % 702434-0848. % 702-452-8066. % 702-457-5775. % 702-386-3926. floats into Laughlin. % 702-457-2797. Another balloon festival. % 702-2939256. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. and the National Finals Rodeo. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. % 702-870-1221. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. . and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. % 702-8953900. Later in the month.
On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. The area gets only four inches of rain a year. is to mountain bikers. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer.11b).11+). rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains.9) has 1.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley.7) crag and mixed climbing walls.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. Red Rock attracts free climbers. At nearby Willow Springs.11). that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. so chalk often stays put for months. especially in winter months. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area.12a). Stratocaster (5.11). in fact. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. To the west. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot.8). Crimson Chrysalis (5. Sheep Trail (5. At the end of a 90-minute approach. The Choad Warrior (5.11). White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs.9). Graveyard Waltz (5. Chicken Eruptus (5. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5.11d) offers more advanced routes. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. Utah. Other routes in- . sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many. so take extra precautions when adventuring here.
which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus.918 feet. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. At the aforementioned fork.12). providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. gaining 3. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. ending at a small dam and the spring. .10 or 5. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. Rainbow Buttress (5. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. consult the Bible of local climbers. toward a ridge at 11. an easy six-mile round-trip. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road.8) and Eagle Dance (5. published by the American Alpine Club. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste.000 feet in four miles.000 feet.000 feet. 17 miles round-trip. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. & For more information. The trail switchbacks time and again. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. Following the fork. See Outfitters. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. elevation 11. to savor the 300-mile views. About seven miles from the visitor center. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail.6). The South Loop Trail. The 3. page 41.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. Chockstone Press. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles.
Beginning on a dirt road. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. contact the US Forest Service. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center.4 miles.000 feet into the northeastern sky. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon.000 feet above the desert. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. the trail climbs 1. Never take these altitudes lightly. gaining 1. covering two miles and gaining 1. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. At lower elevations.000 feet to a saddle.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. For trail information and weather and safety updates. thunderstorms and snow. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. To the northwest. . Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. Mountain T Ranch. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person.
Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. heading for the northernmost outcropping. ascending northwest. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. go 6. 89124. % 702-364-8687. . Just south of this outcrop. % 888-86ROCKY. Falcon Press Publishing. Bruce Grubbs. 89180. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. Climb northward up the slope. % 702-596-2953. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. 89137. Suite 4. Las Vegas. which is marked by a post. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. outlines the easiest route. and park at the end of the road. % 702-223-2176. Rocky Trails.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. PO Box 1. % 702-254-5604. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. turn right. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Las Vegas. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin.2 miles.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. then go northwest to another plateau. % 702-434-3388. climb a gully to reach a ridge. Stay below the northern peaks. PO Box 80875. Sports & Adventure Tours. PO Box 371324. HCR 33. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. Las Vegas 89117.
To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. % 702387-2457. % 702-383-0838.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. Hahn’s World of Surplus. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . Armed . 617 Hoover Avenue. however. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. Wagons West. % 702-458-8870. % 702362-7177. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. 4065 East Patrick Lane. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. Silver State Old West Tours. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard.6 mile to a dirt road. Cowboy Trail Rides. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. Peak Sports. % 702-875-1978. % 702-252-7114. Las Vegas. Desert Outfitting. Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. % 702-254-1143. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. 89132. % 702-2567433. % 702-649-6819. % 702-798-6565. Desert Rock Sports. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. At mile post 17. PO Box 19210. can arrange a covered wagon trip. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard.
then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. 4765 Vegas Drive. scanning for a cairn on the left. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. turn left to another intersection and turn right. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. Go left here. flying downhill and then up to another road. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. . a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. A double track soon appears on the right. Head downhill. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn. PO Box 26589. For a more challenging excursion. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. contact the Bureau of Land Management. turn right. Turn right. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. After beginning another climb.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. go to the next intersection. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. zoom downhill to the fork. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. before heading out. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. Turn right. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. Las Vegas. a six-mile loop. and pump uphill. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. heading uphill. make a quick right and head downhill. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. Take this until you reach a double track. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. For a tamer road trip. At the road. % 702-647-5000. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. NV 89126. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead.
16 Cottonwood Drive. % 702-642-2453. % 702-8978287. Ski Chalet. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. Downhill Bicycle Tours. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. R&R Cycling. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. Turn left to return to US 15. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. % 702-451-9586. Las Vegas Bikes USA. 7934 Cadenza Lane. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. the byway forks. At about the 10-mile mark. % 702-646-3401. % 702-876-8687. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. Escape the City Streets. . 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. % 702-252-8077. % 702-596-2953. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor.
Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. an avid angler for more than 50 years. 89101. 2810 South Highland Drive. % 702-796-9355. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. maps and more information on backcountry byways. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. % 702-646-8800. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. 4765 West Vegas Drive. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. % 702-380-6969. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. 3700 Flamingo Road. is on the premises. 8 AM to 11 AM. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. crystal-clear hotel pool.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. % 702-454-5555. Las Vegas. Suite B. It begins. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. Old West Territory Tours. % 888-REELRIO. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. of all places. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. . For details. 713 East Ogden Street. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. Rebel Adventure Tours.
sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. (See below. Forever Resorts. Off Nevada 167. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. meals and overnight lodging for $449. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. For details. and two. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. about three miles across at its widest point. jet skiing.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence.to three-days notice is required. Thomas. flows into Lake Mead. largemouth bass and trout. % 800-2555561. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). . rents houseboats. The expert staff is available seven days a week. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. powerboats and cruisers. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. Boulder Beach.) Swimming. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). % 800-34-SCUBA.500-acre ranch in Utah. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. instruction and gear. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). water skiing. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. under Boating Outfitters. offering professional advice. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River.
% 702-293-6180. particularly near cliffs. 89124. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Return transportation is provided by bus. Las Vegas. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. % 800-696-RAFT. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. % 702-2931190. Las Vegas. % 702-565-8958. PO Box 61235. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. Near Laughlin. 89006. HCR 30. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. 89102. % 702-252-7114. 322 Lake Shore Road. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. Lake Mead Cruises. Calville Bay Resort. PO Box 100. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. is the local fishing and boating hub. % 702-754-3245. The cost is about $65 per person. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. 89006. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. offers trips from January through November. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. Lake Mojave Farther south. PO Box 62465. . Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting.
1330 East Lake Mead Drive. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. PO Box 29279. Fiesta Queen Cruises. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. 89040. Laughlin.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. % 702-459-2080. Overton Beach Marina. 520-758-6242. % 702-433-3263. % 702565-0696. 89028. % 800-228-9825. % 702-437-9283. Overton. 4290 Boulder Highway. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702-452-8299. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. Laughlin River Tours. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. Overton. Sunset Bait & Tackle. % 702-3944000. AZ. % 702297-1464. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. Tom’s Water Skiing. 1450 Newberry Drive. . PO Box 29279. Bullhead City. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. 89029. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. % 702-5659111. % 702-388-1022. % 702-564-5660. Clearwater Flyfishing. 89040.
The platform is open Sunday through Friday. Jim Goff.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. ext. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. Hackett Bungy. % 702-5657583. % 702-565-8396. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. however. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. citing growing noise problems. HB Fishing Guide Service. A jump is $59. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. Even more memorable. 810 Circus Circus Drive. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. 3800.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. % 702-451-4004. 1500 Palomino Drive. 161 East Rancho Drive. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. noon to 9 PM. % 702-564-1558. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. . Saturday until midnight. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. % 702-385-4321. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. Karen Jones. The company claims more than 500. 68 Mallory Road. Arizona and Zion. complete with guided ground tours and meals. % 702-434-0848.J. With commercial balloon tours. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. Henderson Bill Spellman. Utah. % 702-871-1399.
806 Buchanan Street. Air Vegas Airlines. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. Jean. 200 Convention Center Drive. % 800-255-7474. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. % 800-535-4448. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April.com. 2705 Airport Drive. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. 89005. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. % 702-385-2SKI. #115-200. Set at a base elevation of 8. % 800-446-4584. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. Heli USA. 3275 Rosanna Street. 806 Buchanan Street. Skydive Las Vegas. Las Vegas. % 702-736-0013. Las Vegas Airlines. Web site www. % 800-8-SKYDIV. % 800-359-8727. Sundance Helicopters. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. D&R Balloons.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. % 702-221-9199. PO Box 19629. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. King Airelines. 89109. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . Boulder City. Eagle Canyon Airlines. NV 89117. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. Jean Airport. % 702-877-1010. 241 East Reno Avenue. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. Las Vegas. Scenic Airlines. % 800-634-6377. NV 89019.ultimateballoonadven. % 800-216-8330. % 702-293-1860. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. % 800-634-6851.
The hotel tower was built in the 1980s.000 visitors. 600 East Fremont Street. are booked solid on weekends. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. even behemoths like the 5. Above all. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. % 800-272-7426. if possible. $-$$. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80.000-room MGM Grand. After all. 18 East Fremont Street. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. HO TE L Many hotels.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. All they do is take up space. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. The casino at the Las Vegas Club.000 techies to Sin City. The place was once part-owned by in- . when rates are lower and lines are shorter. over 100. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. $-$$$. it seems. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. % 702-385-5200. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. luring 200. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. % 702-385-1664. But somehow.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. 2395 North Rancho Road. For more serious snow. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. % 702-646-0008. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel.
If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. 3000 Paradise Road. South of here. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 1 Main Street. The movie Rainman was shot here. across from the Fashion Show Mall. $-$$. % 702-740-NYNY.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. Caesars Palace. Across the street is the green giant. and New York. % 702-894-7111. The Four Queens. Even by Vegas standards. the young upstarts. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. $$-$$$. Next door is the Island’s big sister. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-3821600. has 1. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. New York is out there. 129 East Fremont Street. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. $$-$$$$. dominate the Strip. 128 East Fremont Street. the Flamingo. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. 202 East Fremont Street. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. Monte Carlo. however. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-732-5111. If staring at wealth is your thing. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. The Mirage. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. New York. $$-$$$$. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. % 702-740-NYNY. $-$$. New York. The faux volcano. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. $$-$$$$. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. way out there. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-385-4011. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. % 702-731-7110. % 702-385-7111. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. who built the first casino resort. the MGM Grand. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. is a crowd-pleaser. % 702-791-7171. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. Down the street. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. The Golden Nugget. % 702-386-2110. $$$-$$$$.037 rooms. $$$$$. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. $$-$$$$.
$-$$.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. % 800-634-3988.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. % 702-262-4555.500 rooms. contrary to popular belief. contact the Chamber of Commerce. On the outskirts of Vegas. $-$$$. $$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. Bonnie Springs Motel. Charleston Hotel. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. % 702-872-5500. set at 7. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. In the Spring Mountains. . has 2. but don’t count on that for long. % 702-872-5408.000 visitors a month and climbing. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. TIP Laughlin For the most part.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. % 702-875-4400. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. Charleston Resort. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. the Mt. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. three Motel 6s. too.000. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. positively sedate with its 5. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. At this book goes to press.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. % 702-735-1616. which eliminates Reno.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. while Bellagio will boast 3. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt.
all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. classy Hugo’s Cellar. while the Golden Nugget. On the Strip. An excellent buffet. 1350 East Flamingo Road. Emeril’s. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. 2100 South Casino Drive. Hamada. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. both at the MGM Grand. % 702-298-2453. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . 3700 West Flamingo Road.000 rooms. Off the main drags. 202 Fremont Street. % 702-298-4200. and Gatsby’s.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. After a few meals at most of these troughs. in the Las Vegas Hilton. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. Downtown at the Four Queens. 2300 South Casino Drive. however. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-891-7374. % 702-3807711. % 702-385-5016. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices.500 rooms. % 702-733-3111. Andre’s. $-$$$. % 702-298-7111. % 702-298-2214. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. Andiamo. % 702-385-4011. 2900 South Casino Drive. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. $-$$$. 401 South 6th Street. % 702-252-7777. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. At the Flamingo Hilton. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. 1650 Casino Drive. % 702-891-7337. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. $-$$. The Ramada Express. 2000 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-2535. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. offers 2. sports a railroad theme. Café Michelle. has 1. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. $-$$. 1900 South Casino Drive. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. % 702-298-4000. the Flamingo Hilton. % 702735-8686. The Edgewater. and Harrah’s. To really dine UPtown. Eurasian mélange. and very expensive. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. while the Colorado Belle. $-$$$. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. % 702-298-5111. $-$$. % 702-732-5111. serves upscale Italian fare. % 702-298-4600. 2121 South Casino Drive. contact the Chamber of Commerce. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. opened in 1990. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. Nearby. $$$$.
serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. serves fine steaks and seafood. % 702-298-2242.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. % 702-873-5222. is the most popular Chinese place in town. having opened in 1932. so be prepared for extreme weather. in the shadow of Mt. % 702733-8899. Phillip’s Supper House. although the Lodge.000 and 8. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. % 702-693-5000. All five campgrounds have piped water. is the oldest restaurant in the city. For a Latin taste. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. as the name implies. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. The elevation here ranges between 7. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. 2504 East Fremont. Charleston. % 702-794-0700. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. % 702-382-1644. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. . serves hip. Chicken is the house specialty. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. which. The Green Shack. 3900 Paradise Road. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. % 702-2984600. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. while moderately pricey. For information. Near the end of Nevada 157. Fong’s. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. 308 West Sahara Avenue. call % 702-873-8800. % 702-363-1921. % 702-383-0007. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. Suite Z. For satisfying American favorites. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel.400 feet. % 702-384-4470. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. Kyle Canyon. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. Chin’s. seven days a week. 4455 Paradise Road.
Moving north from Boulder City. On the north shore. % 520-754-3272. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. there’s Boulder Beach. % 702-397-2088. Calville Bay has 80 sites. call % 702-646-3401. On the Virgin River to the north. % 520-7544606. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. north of town on Lake Mojave.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. Las Vegas Territory . has room for 171 RVers and tenters. In Valley of Fire State Park. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. Across the river from the Strip. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. To the east of Vegas. For information on all five locations. For information.
Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. Reno. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. The Truckee River.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. Heavenly and Mt. Of course. and for good reason.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. With a surface elevation of more than 7. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime.000 feet. Las Vegas. just east of the California-Nevada border. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. In the winter. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. At the heart of this region. the largest alpine lake in North America. Rose resorts. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. the city of Reno is the .
some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. About 30 miles north of Reno. meanwhile. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. where everyone expects Ben. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. 8. are walks back in time. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. Pyramid Lake. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. Farther south. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. which meanders – sometimes wet. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. Fort Churchill. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. an ancient. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. The place dates back to 1851. Washoe Lake State Park. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. Today this mirage-come-true. North of Pyramid Lake. The Carson River. Just south of Carson City. Farther east of Carson City. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. on the shores of Washoe Lake. . Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise.
Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. there isn’t a glass pyramid. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. From Reno. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. which hosts special events in warmer months. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory.W. North Virginia Street. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. the latter beginning in Wadsworth.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. the city continues to grow rapidly. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. In 1852. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. H. No. Like Vegas. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. From here. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. and in 1859 C. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. % 800-FOR-RENO. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. or at least slow.H. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. In 1863. From Carson City. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. for a schedule.
Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. From a historical point of view. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. . this is it.
) The Wilbur D. including black bears and kit foxes. houses one of the world’s best collections. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. but call first for hours. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. When arms get tired. Animal Ark Nature Center. And the Keck Minerals Museum. houses a theater and telescope. April through October. On the suburban south side of Reno. % 702-688-1190. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. On the northern outskirts of the city.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. % 702-788-3773. The staff welcomes visitors daily. To get there. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. 1265 Deerlodge Road. 10 South Lake Street. % 702-334-2600. 1650 North Virginia Street. % 702-784-4528. the campus of the University of Nevada. Great Basin Adventure. a nifty historical theme park. % 702784-4812. turn right. the National Automobile Museum. May Museum and Arboretum. % 702-969-3111. boasts three treasures. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. % 702-333-9300. (See below under On Foot. is also located here. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. % 702-7855961. 1502 North Washington Street. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. The Nevada Historical Society. is a well-known. has been at that location since 1946. Fleischmann Planetarium. Reno-Tahoe Territory . 300 North Center Street. About 10 minutes north of the university. On the north side of the city. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction.
% 800-CAR-RENT. % 800-221-1212. Avis. % 800-221-2000. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Thrifty. % 800-359-2472. % 800-218-8777. TWA. Lloyd’s International. % 800-331-1212. If you don’t have a car. America West Airlines. K-T Services. % 800-654-3131. % 800-235-9292. % 800-241-6522. % 800-800-4000. % 800-736-6247. Dollar. TriStar Airlines. No Stress Express. % 702-328-6400. % 800-225-2525. % 800-325-8007. Airlines Air 21. Southwest Airlines. % 800-426-7000. % 800-527-0700. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. % 800-367-2277. Alaska Airlines. % 800-654-7037. Enterprise. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. % 800-231-2222. Hertz. % 800-453-9417. % 702-882-3375. Northwest Airlines. % 800-435-9792. . Canadian Airlines. Greyhound Lines. Budget. Delta Air Lines. National. Reno Air.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. Delta Connection-Sky West. United Airlines.
22 miles long and 12 miles wide. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. respectively. Reno. Reno. NV 89502. % 800-FOR-RENO. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. provides an interesting mix of adventures. but the future of the Basin itself. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. 4590 South Virginia Street. All told. the waters are now finding friends in high places. Fortunately. At press time. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. In 1861. year-round outdoor playgrounds. NV 89505. rock. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. 405 Marsh Avenue. restore forest and watersheds. trees and sky. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. local. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. in his journal Roughing It. control erosion and acquire open land. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. 98 Colony Road. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. is a study in contrast. % 702-329-2936. a marvelous intermingling of water. In reality. % 702-686-3030. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. $5. along the eastern shoreline. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. the unique Ponderosa Ranch.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. called Diver’s Cove. The north end of the beach. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. under On Foot. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. % 702-831-0494. with its full slate of running water. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. But in between them. The park. open May through November. at 10. is a welcome respite. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake.776 feet. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. % 702-831-0691. Reno-Tahoe Territory . Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders.) Up the twisting NV 431. Three miles south of Incline Village. % 702-849-2511. Viewed from the highway.50 for adults.50 for kids. After the buzz of the ranch. restrooms and picnic areas. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. Admission is $8. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. is well-known to snorkelers. stands out amid the pines. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. (See below. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. The beaches are open daily. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead.
250 feet in five minutes. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. Sailing. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. 96151. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. The day-use fee is $5. % 800-AT-TAHOE. No bottles are allowed on the beaches.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. NV 89449. $6 per child. South Lake Tahoe. % 702588-3000. canoeing. also offers excursions. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here. For information. PO Box 7139. The next stop is Zephyr Cove. then into the broad Washoe Valley. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months.) For the unmechanized. restaurants. Booming in the winter (see below. under Adventures and Accommodations. % 702-588-4591. At Tahoe Village. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. condos. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. under On Snow.50 per adult. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . CA. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. Stateline. under On Snow). % 916-583-9048. Every summer. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. (See below. (See below. May through November. a nature trail circles the lake. The price for such sloth is $10. horseback riding. offices and shops. This is the home port of the Dixie II. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. PO Box 16299. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. % 702588-3508.
the world’s largest silver strike. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. eventually lost their silver fortune. the mansion and all its furnishings. % 702-687-4319. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. off NV 429. and on weekends between May and October. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. Bowers Mansion County Park. % 702-849-0201. site of Washoe Lake State Park. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. The park’s centerpiece. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. During the wet season. 1851. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . In November. pages 83. one mile south of Washoe City. About 30 miles south of Reno. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. When the Comstock Lode. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. Camping. was hit a year later in Virginia City. US 395 slides southwest. the boom rolled in at full throttle.” On Halloween in 1864. Washoe Lake. About 15 miles south of Reno.000 acres. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. Washoe Lake covers about 3. The original owners. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. (See below. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. Bowers Mansion. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. a hunt that lasted 20 years. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. windsurfing. boating. camping and hiking (see below. under Adventures. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. 87 and 98). fishing and horseback riding are popular here.
100 Stewart Street. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. Call for schedules and pick-up points. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. Just east of the Capitol. % 702-687-4810.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. The library contains the original state constitution. % 702687-5030. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. The Capitol Building & Museum. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. excepting state holidays. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. in fact. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. yearround.” In fact. . regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. % 702-687-5160. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. exhibits of native fauna. Open Monday through Friday. Unlike most Western capitals. Located in the Carson City Mint building. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. which was opened in 1886. Headquartered in nearby Minden. the Capitol is open daily. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. % 702-884-3450. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. 101 North Carson Street. Admission is $3. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. the Nevada State Library & Archives. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. It’s so open. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. 600 North Carson Street.
448 West King Street. % 702-826-2766. Bliss Mansion. % 702-687-6953. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . Two blocks north. 302 South Carson Street. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. books and permits for the surrounding area. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. Admission is $4 for adults.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. % 702-887-2174. % 702-883-1976. Samuel. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. Admission is $2. On the suburban south side of Carson City. The staff can provide trail maps. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. That classic journal. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. The Stewart Indian Museum. $2 for kids. Roughing It.50. Charles-Muller Hotel. Admission is $2. 5366 Snyder Avenue. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. the Carson City Brewing Company. The Roberts House Museum. 502 North Division Street. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. train rides are extra. % 702-884-2226. The Orion Clemens House. The St. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. and Bender House (1874). The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. was named for its original occupant. The museum is filled with period furniture. 1536 South Carson Street. 813 North Carson Street. The building now houses a live theater. The office is closed Sundays. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 1207 North Carson Street. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. % 702-882-1808. 2180 South Carson Street. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery.
May through October.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. . Walley’s. Up the street. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. The place saw Nevada’s first house. 2001 Foothill Road. where he is buried. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. % 702-782-8155. 1900 South Carson Street. 3. Guests can enjoy the water. lies Genoa. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. at the foot of the Carson Range. Before the school closed in 1980. Across the street. Carson City. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. The museum is open daily. As of presstime. The roots go back to 1851. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. % 702-687-7410. NV 89701. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. May through October. now long gone. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. % 702-782-4325. Genoa Bar. California. first opened to tourists in 1862. Daily admission is $12.000 students had walked its halls. opened in 1863. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. saunas. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. the first permanent white settlement in the state. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. weight room and tennis courts year-round. to Genoa. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Leaving Carson City. 1440 Highway 395. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year.200acre beauty set at 5. Virginia City. Just down US 395. including Western art and portraiture.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. About three miles south of Gardnerville. circus items. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. In Gardnerville. boxing memorabilia. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. the highway hits Topaz Lake. Minden was founded in 1904. where it intersects with NV 341.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. Housed in the 1915 high school building. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. Beyond NV 341. valleys. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. % 702-782-3133. their sweat. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. % 702-266-3343. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. Their riches. 1477 Highway 395. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. % 702-782-2555. The otherwise barren hills. of all places. which climbs up a narrow. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. a 1. about eight miles south of Carson City. resting precariously . US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. Finally. and their spirit built the Silver State. Gardnerville in 1879. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River.
is a looming. Admission is $3. more than 15. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock.000 a ton in silver. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. The Marshall Mint Museum. Up C Street. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. % 702-847-0757.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. Another huge vein was hit in 1873. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. Not recommended for claustrophobes. % 702847-0975. Admission prices range from donations to $3. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. and within four years. . The Comstock Lode had been struck. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. underground mine tours. Here. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. At the south end of town. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. The building is open daily. May through October. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history.000 lived in Virginia City. leave regularly. Today. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. % 702-847-0777.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain.
Admission is $2. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. June through October. Finally. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. Open daily. has a more eclectic collection. complete with ornate chandeliers. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. The Mark Twain Museum. The memory of Samuel Clemens. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. 3. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. windswept plateau. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle.50. The Way It Was Museum. a room in the basement of a saloon. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. % 702-8470333. % 702-847-9394. % 702-847-0766. After she was murdered in 1867. Admission is $2. Mark Twain’s Memories. is definitely not for the puritan. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. Its extravagant interior. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street. lives on in two buildings. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. % 702-8470830. for a ride into yesterday. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. % 702847-0275. is open daily. % 702-847-0454. including an old jukebox and player pianos. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. % 702-847-0525. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. Reno-Tahoe Territory . no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. The headstones and gravesites.
built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . then exit at NV 445. appears in Palomino Valley. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. % 702-847-0311. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. After about eight miles.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. % 702-577-2345. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. or mustangs. There is also a developed campground. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. After another 20 miles. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. The Byway’s terminus. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. little more than a few walls remain. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. wild horses. Today. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. number about 30. including Odeon Hall. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. Past the intersection with NV 431. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. % 702-673-1150.
NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. Nearby. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. since at least 9. % 702-547-0187. the world’s largest playa. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. Today. Another 25 miles north via paved. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. From Nixon. Tribe members administer recreation activities. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. the road passes Wino. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510.000 BC. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-476-1156. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. or dry lake bed. boat ramp. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. this is the place to do it – unless. campground. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. according to artifacts found in local caves. They will provide directions and hours of operation. nine-mile-wide watering hole. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. Camping. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. If losing yourself is your goal. site of the ranger station. of course. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. continues to surround the lake. Spreading north and east. Just north of the marina. store and museum. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe.182 feet) to the west.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. thus christening the 27-mile-long. Fremont. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. boating and fishing are extra. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. A reservation was formalized in 1874. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops.
76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. on 575. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. birds of prey. TAKE CARE In this region. Help can be a long way away. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. tow chain. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. Again. preparedness is imperative. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. songbirds. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. about one mile south of NV 140. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Besides antelope. . camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. % 503-947-3315. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. even with one. caution and common sense are key to traveling. A shovel. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. and carry enough water. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. spare tire. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons.
the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-329-7469. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. % 702-882-1283. In Carson City. with food. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. % 800-FOR-RENO. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. is held in Sparks. % 702-687-7410.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. % 702-782-2444. % 702-329-3877. is a rip-snortin’ affair. water. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. In Virginia City. heats up. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. % 702-782-2211. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. % 702-588-6211. In Reno. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. % 702-882-1808. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. % 702-883-1352. The Way It Was Rodeo. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. % 702-847-0311. % 702-588-9658. % 702-829-1955. Richest Rodeo in the West. % 702-265-5281. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. In Gardnerville. Reno also . Carson Valley Days. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. a rolling custom car show. % 702-882-1802. bills itself as the “Wildest. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. Night Curves. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. % 702-353-2291. % 702-847-7500.
and the National Championship Air Races.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. the notorious Burning Man Festival. In the skies. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-827-7603. attracts American Indians from many Western states. % 702-847-0311. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. come to Virginia City along with a parade. the Native American Snow Dance. % 702-688-5767. and the Nevada Day Parade. % 702-885-6939. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. Street Vibrations. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. deconstructionist Woodstock. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. In Incline Village. % 702-826-1181. % 702-972-6663. takes place in Carson City. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. On the Black Rock Desert. the Nevada State Fair. . is held in Reno. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. % 702-786-5700. gather in Minden. % 702-832-1606. % 702-882-1565. % 702-329-7469. a sort of post-modern. September The famous International Camel Races. % 800-535-3045. % 702-782-9711. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-329-1476. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. The Great Italian Festival.
then climbs in earnest toward the peak. Farther south. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. Falcon Press Publishing. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. 1994. There are more than 20 routes.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. however. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. all 5. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. At the five-mile mark. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. so dress appropriately.11a).Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on.11d) and Slayer (5. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8.11a and 5. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles.12a opportunities. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50.14a). . including Jello Wars (5.11c and heavier. whips around a peak. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels.000 feet. After crossing Galena Creek. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. Overhangs present experts with 5. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. are more chilling than the mountain air. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. including Asylum (5. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. There are 10 routes. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. then climbs to a saddle.
for children $5. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. so call first. % 702-847-WALK. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. The trail ends at a highway. % 702-6881893. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. The charge for adults is $12. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. Hours are seasonal. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. After another mile.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived.260 feet. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. offers a beautiful willow. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. climbing 3. elevation 8. Since the slide. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. NV 431. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. as are group tours. the Oxbow Nature Study Area.300 feet in just six miles. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. . including great blue herons and birds of prey. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. This hike is certainly strenuous.
who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. Mahogany Mountain. Yellow Hills East. To reach the trailhead. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. OR 97441. Madras. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. From here. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. Oakland. Stevens Camp. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. contact the BLM. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. For travel information. CA 94620.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. For more information. is a good overnight point. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. . as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. as are 7. For road conditions and closures. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. For more information. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. % 916-279-6101. The trail. write them at PO Box 20991. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. great horned owls and other birds of prey. As this is being written.
terminus of the fairly flat. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here.200 lung-burning feet. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. Denio Junction. Patagonia Outlet. Reno. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. to the soaring summit at 9. % 702-333-6795. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. NV 89502. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. 20 Daylily Court. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. A steep. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. Silver State Outfitters. On the east side of the reservoir. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. % 702-832-5231. 8550 White Fir Street. Nevada Guide Service. 490 Kietzke Lane. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. 3335 Vista Boulevard. Sparks. backpackers and photographers. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. % 702-623-1500. Incline Village. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. 1135 Terminal Way.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. . beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. % 702-746-6878. % 702-322-9559. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. % 702-626-6916. The lakes. jogs through alpine meadows. Outdoor Adventures. NV 89436. gaining 2. NV 89511. NV 89450. % 702-851-1924. but they might also offer their services to hikers. PO Box 6145. Bighorn Outfitting.397 feet. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. #111. Reno. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. Look for the Knott Creek sign.
Near Washoe Lake State Park. After about three miles. also rents horses. Vogl Trek USA. % 702-885-7773. % 702588-5664. 4375 South Carson Street. Sporting Rage. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. In all four cases. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. In the highlands near Mount Rose. Sierra Spirit Ranch. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. % 702782-7011. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. Strictly Scuba & More. 155 East Moana Lane. % 702-323-5630. % 702-8252855. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. % 702884-3453. and offers picnic rides. 1941 North Carson Street. which parallels North Canyon Creek. contact Tin Cup Adventures. Twin City Surplus. offers ranch day trips. % 702-849-9651. Sierra Mountaineer. % 702-831-5465. the trail makes a high-altitude. % 702-849-0570. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. 1675 East 4th Street. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. Zephyr Cove Stables. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. 4339 South Carson Street. % 702-849-1020. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. % 702-8827779. % 702-3584824. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. call first for availability and directions. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart .Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. 1201 Highway 395. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake.
. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. 84 miles back to Gerlach. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. depending on point of view. The half-paved. To complete the loop. For detailed maps. From here. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. to Vya. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. or ends. north of Pyramid Lake. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. % 702-831-0494. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Put simply. The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. % 916-279-6101. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. don’t screw it up. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A).84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. Continuing northwest on NV 447. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34.
Bike Brothers. 3450 Lakeside Drive. 89502. % 702826-0800. 89701.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. Reno Schwinn. For more information. 89532. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. % 702-3226001. % 702-8871333. 89502. % 702786-5111. % 702827-3277. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. also known as NV 206. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. 4135 South Virginia Street. Excell Skates. % 702883-3210. 500 North Carson Street. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. 1999 South Virginia Street. & According to Jeanne L. winter and spring. along with Canada geese in fall. 235 East Plumb Lane. south of Carson City. Bicycle Warehouse. 89701. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89502. 1993. % 702-747-1413. Falcon Press Publishing. 89509. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. 1987 North Carson Street. call % 702-688-1500. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 89502. Great Basin Bicycles. % 702-825-8258. .
canoes. via NV 88 and CA 89. The trip. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. Nevada. California. 89701. Entrance fee is $3 per car.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. 625 Fairview Drive. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. On the Nevada side. 89450. six miles south of Gardnerville. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. offers 1. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. kingfishers. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. Contact the US Forest Service. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. . % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. rents powerboats. coyotes. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. which can take up to seven hours. % 702-8825007. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. red-tailed hawks. % 702782-0867. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. cutthroat and rainbows. 1685 Highway 395 South. personal water craft and kayaks. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. PO Box 3007. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. turkey vultures. % 702-588-3369. During spring and early summer. 89423. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. Spooner Lake.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith.
bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. although . Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. % 702-688-1500. but in wet years. There are two boat ramps. For directions. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. Washoe Lake State Park. For moving-water anglers. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. For more adventurous angling. water levels. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. two to three miles up a steep trail. For the stalwart anglers. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. catfish and trout. only a mile west of downtown. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. planting and licensing information. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. Idlewilde Park. with campground and restrooms. A better option might be Ophir Creek. % 702-6874319. The smaller. are regularly stocked with rainbows. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. both on the eastern shore. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. and charges a launching fee. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. However. thanks to Sierra runoff. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno.
the setting here is primative.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. . and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. Camping is primitive. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. The reservoir is located on private land. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. More than 100 years later. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. crappie and perch. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. Rainbow. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. For more information. Nevada Angler’s Guide. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. In his book. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. There are two boat ramps on the lake. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. see below. under Outfitters. a health advisory is still in effect. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. used to separate gold and silver from ore. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. boasts a handful of isolated spots. while rainbow. however. Boats with outboards are permitted. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. Come prepared. % 702-688-1500. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler.
155 East Moana Lane. % 702-588-4916. % 916-541-5448. Tahoe City.440 vertical feet of runs. Don’s Fishing Charters. Reno. rentals and a shuttle bus. Stateline. 89502. PO Box 815. Reno Fly Shop. 490 Kietzke Lane. Sparks. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. PO Box 6506. NV 89448. The Gilly. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. Mount Rose also offers lessons. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. NV 89448. NV 89502. NV 89431. % 702-358-6113. % 702-322-9559. Tahoe Topliners. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. % 916-546-4444. equally divided among novice. Reno. Zephyr Cove. Snowboarders are welcome. % 702-825-2855. 294 East Moana Lane. % 702-827-0600.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. % 916573-0753. 1111 North Rock Boulevard.. Tahoe Sportfishing Co.260 feet. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. With a base elevation of 8. CA. PO Box 10225. PO Box 1909. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. NV 89449. intermediate and advanced. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. . Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. 96145. NV 89502. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. Zephyr Cove.
rentals.840 feet. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. lesson. which include a pass. all-terrain skis. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. Lessons. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee.000 feet above sea level. . a new gondola and the famous tram. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. % 702-831-8361. and rental.800) and the highest top elevation (10. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). rentals and a shuttle bus are available. with the longest vertical drop (3. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. Lessons. NV. lesson. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. skate skis. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. rentals. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. Heavenly. For cross-country fans. six surface lifts. trail pass) is $34. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. 89451. Snowboarders are welcome. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. not to mention great views of the lake.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. This is a monster of a mountain. 1210 Ski Way. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. and/or snowshoes. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. day tours and amateur races.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. Incline Village.000 to 9. % 702-7823047. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. % 702-749-5349. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. the greatest acreage (4. Heavenly has 18 chairs. lessons. Diamond Peak. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental.500 feet). 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. $8 after 3 PM). Spooner Lake Cross-Country.
1200 South Wells Avenue. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. 209 Kingsbury. CA 96151. 89451. South Lake Tahoe. % 702-3226001. 1685 Highway 395 South. 89423. % 702-831-3537. Sundance Ski Company. Bobo’s Ski Shop. % 702-831-2922. PO Box 19215. Mogul Mouse. 89502. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. % 702-329-5358. 235 East Plumb Lane.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. % 702831-3500. 89502. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. 89451. 140 Vesta Street. Excell Skates. Serva Ski. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. 89451. 321 Sky Way. % 702-8269096. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. 2615 Mill Street. 89502. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. % 702786-5111. of- . 89502. 515 East Moana Lane. % 916-544-1221. Sierra Mountaineer.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. % 702-786-2020. % 702-849-0111. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. 89502. 2500 East 2nd Street. % 702-786-7071. Snowind Sports. 89502. 89502. % 702782-0867. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. Galena Ski Rentals. % 702-588-5935. C&J Flight Aviation. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. % 702-3239463. In Reno. Stateline House of Ski. % 702-358-4824. 89502. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory.
$$$-$$$$. has 740 rooms. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. $$$$. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. poolside service. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. Lake Village Vacations.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. a dance club. eight restaurants. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). $$$-$$$$. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. % 800-6483773. $$$$$$$. $$$-$$$$. has two. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. . The upscale Ridge Tahoe.. three. High Country Soaring. % 800-99-RIDGE. 398 US 50. offers 534 rooms. % 702-588-8571. $$$-$$$$. of course. % 800-635-0066. The Douglas County Airport. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. % 702-784-4944. Harrah’s.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. % 800-648-3353. on this site since 1944. % 800-427-8397. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. the Sierras and. Lake Tahoe. also features condo accommodations. Harvey’s Resort. Tahoe Summit Village.
lawn games. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. $$-$$$$. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. % 702-588-6644. % 800- . combines great views. $$$. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. % 702-831-0287. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. The Zephyr Cove Resort. which serves free continental breakfast. as well as a gym with instructor on site. The Haus Bavaria B&B.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. % 702-8321234. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. $-$$. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. 593 North Dyer Circle. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. the Cal-Neva Resort. has 33 rooms. $$-$$$. A perennial four-star winner. As in Las Vegas. Harrah’s. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. a rustic feel. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. % 800-731-6222. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. $$. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. 111 Country Club Drive. % 800-322-7723. 2 Stateline Road. first-class. $$. % 800-225-6382. 210 North Center Street. % 800-624-7980. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. % 800-824-6391. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy.700 rooms on 38 floors. Today. $$-$$$. 407 North Virginia Street. with more than 1. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. 24 Highway 28. % 800-687-8733. Among the downtown locations. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials.$$-$$$$. $$$-$$$$. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade.
% 702-8821887. $$. convention facilities and some impressive suites. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. has more than 1. boasts nearly 600 rooms. including a barber shop.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. $$$$. is a three-story. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. 2707 South Virginia Street. % 800-622-1890. $. 345 North Virginia Street. % 702-882-3643. free airport shuttle and skier rates. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. % 800-937-1436. Away from downtown. 3131 South Virginia Street. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. 3575 South Virginia Street. % 702-786-4070. $$. has a heated pool. $$-$$$. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. It has more than 1. most notably the Days Inn. the Motel 6. 600 South Carson Street. the new Peppermill. $$. 310 South Carson Street. 710 West Robinson Street. a heated pool and other amenities. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. % 800-282-2444. % 800-320-0627. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. $$$. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. the Eldorado. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. which overlooks the state government center.000 rooms. % 800-723-6500. $$. % 800-648-1177. % 702-358-1080. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. Motel 6. 701 East 7th Street. 500 North Sierra Street. % 702-825-7134. 1901 South Virginia. 1100 Nugget Avenue. $$. and Vagabond Inn. $$. welcomes bargain hunters. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. $$. which features theme rooms. % 800-648-5966. $$. Rates start at $195 per night. $$$. Freeway convenient. two heated pools and a hair salon. $. an owner-built. The Atlantis. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. Nearby. $$-$$$. Circus Circus. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. . Charles Hotel. The St. % 800-723-6500. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. % 702-827-0255.
$. for weary wanderers. 8 South F Street. $-$$. $$$. 1627 US 395. 2332 Main Street. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. % 800-321-6983. . % 702-782-7075. 1431 Ezell Street. The motel has 40 rooms. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. $$. % 702-847-0111. two with private baths. 11 with private baths. % 702-782-8720. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. % 702-882-3046. $$. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. 1435 US 395. $-$$. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. 1643 US 395. The Chollar Mansion. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile.C. was built in the late 1800s. including the small Genoa House Inn. has five rooms. #800-628-7831. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. % 702-847-0521. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. Pratt. $$-$$$. is the center of the action. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. 1979 US 395. % 702-557-2220. % 800-962-0732. It has four rooms. % 702-8825535. 907 South Carson. 300 Main Street. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. 800 North Carson. There are 13 rooms. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. 2001 Foothill Road. $$$. 565 South D Street. % 702-847-9777. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. and a casino. the inn was built in 1872 by A. $$$. $$. 180 Nixon Street. 1540 Main Street. $$. $-$$. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. It has four rooms. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. % 702-782-7644. % 702-782-5697. and Pioneer.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. The Crooked House. % 702-782-9711. $$-$$$. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. generic motels abound in Carson City. $-$$. some with kitchenettes.
% 702-588-2411. the lake’s first casino. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. $. Open for dinner only. % 702-323-3200. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. also run the gamut with delis. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. Famous Murphys. Open for dinner only. 4201 West 4th Street. including a seafood and oyster bar. 3127 South Virginia Street. Ichiban. % 702-588-6276. coffee shops. a casino. % 702-786-1323. 1200 Razorback Road. try the Glory Hole. along with Caesars Tahoe. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. The French cuisine is made with fresh. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. the menu changes every two months. The Chart House. % 702-825-1250. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. 210 North Sierra Street. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. ethnic food and full buffets. % 702-323-5550. Reservations are recommended. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. The place has 14 rooms. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. 3065 West 4th Street. 328 Kingsbury Grade. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. % 702-588-6611. % 702-941-0371. % 702-827-4111. serves fresh Japanese steak. The hotels. no TVs and. . of course.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. Steak. seasonal ingredients. The restaurant also does its own baking. is a rousing pub with good food.
% 702-882-4556. this is the place. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. Boasting a large Italian menu. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. % 702-785-7000. serves fine French cuisine. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. 1020 North Carson Street. and Peppermill. 1540 Main Street. % 702-882-0486. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. Silvana’s. the Eldorado. The Carson Nugget Steak House. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. 4389 South Carson Street. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. % 702-689-7226. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. 1112 North Carson Street. 507 North Carson Street. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. % 702-356-3300.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. % 702786-5700. 234 North Virginia. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. 402 East William Street. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. . % 702-883-6261. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. seafood and steak. % 702882-1626. dinner only on weekends. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. 2707 South Virginia Street. % 702-8835100. Two blocks away. % 702-348-9297. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. Adele’s. Heidi’s. % 702-847-0111. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. South of the city center and south of the border. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. one of the top Italian eateries in country. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. El Charro Avitia. % 702-8262121. 255 North Sierra Street. % 702-882-3353. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. 1301 North Carson Street. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. There is also an extensive wine list. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s.
the campground has 54 sites and running water. California. Nightly fees are $6. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. the campground has 24 sites. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. The overnight fee is $7. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. % 702-323-3381. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. % 916-279-6101. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. Simply wonderful. % 702-687-4319. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. Rates run about $18 per night. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. 2500 East 2nd Street. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. .900 feet. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. including Virgin Valley. % 702-322-2281. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. Showers are available. office of the BLM. 1300 West 2nd Street. The nightly fee is $5.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. For information and fees. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. Big Spring Reservoir. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. Call the Cedarville. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. Mount Rose has running water. lies south of the river. On the Nevada side. % 916-573-2600. Set at 8. Open June through September. % 702-8822766. There are 44 campsites here. % 702-789-2000. for more information. nine for RVs. Reno RV Park. some for RVs and some for tents. call % 702266-3343. 735 Mill Street. Open May through October. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. which straddles the Nevada-California border. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. The overnight rate is $12.
South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Want ads called for “Young. and Sacramento. willing to risk death daily. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. the gutsy riders. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. California. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. On October 24. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. Joseph. skinny.. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. pausing only long enough to change mounts.” Riders. Beginning in April 1860. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. Incredibly. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Bible and mail pouch. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Orphans preferred. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west..Pony Express Territory vada. 1861. wiry fellows not over eighteen. tore between stations. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. carrying only a pistol. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. Missouri.
But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno.100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. so be prepared for anything. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. In the higher mountains. But if you consider solitude.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. Great Basin. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. ridges and valleys in the country. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. spans some of the most beautiful. As might be expected. Just a few hours from Ely. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. there is excellent skiing. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. . I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. this area has plenty to offer. Ranging in elevation from 3. Near the town of Ely. glacier-carved peaks.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. hiking and wildlife viewing.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. With 10. In peak years.000 photographic images. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. January through March. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. . the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. In recent years. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. White-faced ibis. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. below. pelicans. 1000 Auction Road. snowy plovers. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. 1050 South Maine Street. % 702-867-3500. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail.000 years. % 702-423-5128. Over 14. April through December. green-winged teals.000 people. peregrine falcons. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. canvasbacks.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. Admission is free. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. Sunday. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. % 702-423-3677. covers 77. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. (See On Water. The Churchill County Museum & Archives.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada.
on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. At press time. is the artist in residence here. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. More than 21.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. On the south end of town. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Every spring. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. Pony Express Territory . which features the famous Blue Angels. Over 8. Just east of town. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. Just off the highway are two short trails. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. and “management” means hunting. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. The hunting season usually opens in October.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. Adam Fortunate Eagle.000 years ago.
NV 89406. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. % 702-423-2544.” meaning sword. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop.” Booms. about three miles past West Gate. fauna. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. 100 Campus Way. If the roar of engines ever dies down. but strenuous. 379 West William Avenue. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. Near the station. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. Fallon. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. the low. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. A hike to the precipice is a safe. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. dark. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. geology and history of the region. NV 89406. roars and moans. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. wild West. . Fallon. % 702-423-4556. regularly emanate from the dune.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. listen for the mountain’s “singing. volcanic cliffs around it. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors).
577 feet. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. Austin is a quiet. As always. Three miles later. % 702-964-2200. then to paved NV 376. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. Austin. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). Round Mountain. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. Six miles later. However the rush began. NV 89045. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . Spencer’s Hot Springs. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. PO Box 1149. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. population about 300. then climbs again to Austin. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. past Bob Scott campground. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). PO Box 212. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. NV 89310. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. % 702-964-2145.350 feet. 13 miles east of Austin. the boom was followed by the bust. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes.
situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. Austin. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. Battle Mountain. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. % 702-964-2200. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. PO Box 1420. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin.500 years ago. There is also a free campground here. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. A series of safe. experienced cavers only.000 years ago. At mile 30. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. NV 89820. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. After merging with Lower Mine Road.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. is recommended for serious. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. The limestone cavern.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. near Pete’s Summit. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. A long. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. % 702635-4000. are open to visitors just off the road. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. The hill is located on private land. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. . At mile 55. NV 89310. PO Box 212. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. Use caution here and stay out of the pool.
The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. The shell of the building. But by 1890 the rush was over. found in the valleys around Eurkea. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. Not until five years later. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. dates from 1877.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. By 1878. PO Box 14. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. but most definitely worth a gander. are still a major facet of the local economy. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). % 702-237-5484. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. Eureka. however. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. Eureka. NV 89316. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. some a little less gloriously than others. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . The state’s No. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. Still. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. completed in 1880 and still in use today. Eureka’s population of 9. The building. and the Jackson House Hotel. Gold mines. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864.
running south into the Humboldt National Forest. % 702-237-5484. US 50 rolls across basin and range. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Situated at 9. Monday through Friday and by appointment. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. Entering town at night .000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. NV 89316. Pronounced EE-lee. A few miles farther south. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. n Ely Back on US 50. PO Box 14. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1.000 feet. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike.500 residents. this mini-city (population about 5. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. Eureka. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93.
% 702-728-4467. Tours of the railroad yard. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. % 702-289-2085. PO Box 150040. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. % 702-2894710. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. The White Pine Public Museum. as well as an original. accessories. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. running water. 2000 Aultman Street. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. located on East 11th Street. Return to US 50. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. depot. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. former First Lady Pat Nixon. The museum. Since they went cold in the 1880s. showers and hiking trails. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. depart on selected dates from May through September. Call for exact dates and times. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic.50 per person. On the other side of town. engine house.300 feet. Admission is free. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. furniture. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. NV 89301. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. Pony Express Territory . like many museums in this territory. Prices start at $10 per person. There is primitive camping here. clothing. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. a bicycle. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. East Ely. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train.
56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. contact the Ely office of the BLM. % 702-289-8877. 1986. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. 150 6th Street. % 702-289-4865. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. sometimes by the hundreds. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. 636 Aultman Street. Only about 70. Designated a national park in October.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. For more information. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. From Baker. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50.000 people a year visit the park. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. In the 1950s a . the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. While hikers are welcome. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. untamed backcountry. Most of the 77. a proposal to create a 6. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. % 800496-9350.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. % 702-234-7331. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. That leads quickly to Baker. Bristlecone Convention Center. In 1922. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known.
are held every day except Thanksgiving. ski resorts and tramways. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. which is actually one huge cavern. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. Prices are $4 for adults. or speleotherms: stalactites. % 702-234-7331. While celebrating a victory. (See On Foot and Camping. among others. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. Christmas and New Year’s Day. flowstone and soda straws. in 1986. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. $3 for juniors. stalagmites. then head straight out of the park. Call ahead for conditions. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. Congress settled on 77.000. the park’s crown jewel. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. .000 to 44. Tours of the cavern.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. limited to 30 people at a time. The high-altitude campgrounds. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. NV 89311-9702. Finally. Baker. too. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. columns. below.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. are hard to beat. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. draperies. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy.086-acre Great Basin National Park.067-foot Wheeler Peak. And even if the invasive livestock were banned.
Bakeoven Creek. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. a few of which are even of gem quality. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. Millet Ranch. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon.000 feet.600 feet.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. South Toiyabe Peak. To reach Garnet Hill. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. Arc Dome. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. The garnets found here.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. Set at 7. Drive three miles to the recreation area. which has picnic tables and shade trees. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. to reach the village of Kingston. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. are spessartite. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. Tierney Creek. or use paved NV 376. Carvers NW. or magnesiumaluminum garnet. . which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. south into Arc Dome Wilderness. % 702-9642671. which can take a few days to get acclimated to.
Pony Express Territory . To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). The area’s claims to fame are The Table. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. and Mount Moriah.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. 1.000 feet along rocky. is marked with trailhead signs. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. After about 10 miles of hiking. which heads west toward the peak. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. which may be impassable when wet. % 702-289-3031 for more information. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. nausea. with many trails climbing above 10. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. as well as all the water you will need. set aside in 1989.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. The wilderness. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. leave the high country immediately. a unique. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. as is carrying plenty of water for each person.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. From the trailhead/parking area.000-acre. Baker. This is some serious highcountry hiking. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. If threatening clouds approach. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. which at 12. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. headache. The trail ends just before the summit. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. windswept paths. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent.
114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges.063 feet. This is another depression etched by a glacier. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. At 13. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. The bowl.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. To reach the summit. the views of the 8. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. the six-mile . then turn left again. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot. In 1878. If it is safe to venture to the peak. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. Continue straight. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. Use extreme caution here.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. then descends to Teresa Lake. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. the last 1. or cirque. Finally.
set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. this is a nice overnight stop.926-foot Pyramid Peak. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. subalpine conditions. . starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. Wheeler Peak. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. just off to the east. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. In good weather. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. Kious Spring.700 feet in the first seven miles. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. To return to the trailhead. To continue the loop hike. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. Around mile six. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. Turn left. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. After about three miles. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. Lehman Caves. Return the way you came. once the site of some mining activity.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection.950 years.
PO Box 34005. 89301. is worth a gander. PO Box 2560. Burdick Guide Service. % 702-423-6171. Daum. 89301. 203 Heritage Drive. As of presstime. % 702-664-2977. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. 89883. Box 33570. . 2005 Harrigan Road. 89406. 89301. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. White River Guide Service. % 702235-7439. 89301. 189 Aultman Street. sells camping and outdoor equipment. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. 701 Avenue F. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. Great Basin Inn. % 702-2893063. HCR 33. Silver State Stables. 89406. % 800-874-0903. % 702423-9215. 89301. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. % 702-238-5232. 1707 Rice Road. % 702-4239215.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. Wildlife West Guide Service. 3125 Stark Lane. Flying M Stables. 89406. % 702-289-4208. % 702-289-8886. % 702-867-3388. 89406. 89406. Sportsworld. a quartermile. 1050 Aultman Street. HC 34. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. % 702-423-5185. 5030 Reno Highway. 89301. Wendover George A. J & P Auto Parts. % 702-289-4468.
For more information. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. Austin. For more information. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. Austin. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. NV 89310. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. population 300.000 per year. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. one would think tiny Austin. PO Box 130. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. % 702-964-2671. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. The route runs north out of the canyon. brochures and campgrounds. PO Box 504. A 10-mile loop with a 1. % 702-885-6000. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. contact the BLM. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. NV 89310. the sixstory. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. Dune-buggy.
. when the weather is dry. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. From the pavement. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch. % 702-289-8886. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. % 702-234-7331. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. and bring plenty of water. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. for maps. directions and road conditions. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. sells and services bicycles. past the US Forest Service station. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. 1500 Aultman Street. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker.
off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. surrounds a 10.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. Boat ramps are located in two spots.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. Lahontan State Recreation Area. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. The trout limit is 10. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. % 702-688-1500. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. where worms and corn are said to work best. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. In 1997. along with sportfishing. White crappie can be hooked March through May. Pony Express Territory .
are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. $-$$. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. which feeds the lake.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. % 702-289-4468. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. via paved NV 376 and a three. % 702-289-3063. % 702-289-8886.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. 701 Avenue F. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. A few chain HO TE L . J & P Auto Parts. 1500 Aultman Street. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. 855 West Williams Avenue. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. % 702-423-6031. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. and one of the best bargains. is one of the biggest places in town. The Upper Reese River. % 702-289-4865. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. Great Basin Inn. 1050 Aultman Street. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits.
$$. and. rates and directions. As you drive in from the west. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. $-$$. Call for information.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. $. $-$$. 115 Northwest Main Street. $$. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. combines a B&B with a private. but after a long day on the road. % 702-964-2471.800 acres. % 702-237-5334. % 702-423-2194. who really cares. % 702-423-4254. instruction. most of which are on US 50. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. % 702-237-5247. try Jackson House B&B. is a modern. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. has 27 rooms. the Lincoln Motel. The Nevada Belle Motel. The red brick structure was built in 1877. Smith Creek Ranch. $$$. On the east end of town. % 702-423-4648. 25 North Taylor Street. % 702-964-2698. $. which is north-south running US 95. % 702-964-2306. % 702-423-2277. 1830 West Williams Avenue. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. 70 East Williams Avenue. It is open seasonally. called Main Street as it runs through town. the 22-room Value Inn. has 17 rooms. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. the Pony Express House. $-$$. $-$$. For a real blast from the past. $. % 702-423-5554. The ranch. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. meals and overnight accommodations. The Sundown Lodge. 180 West Williams Avenue. which has 17 rooms. $-$$. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. a heated pool and a small casino. The Eureka Motel. % 702-423-5151. has 21 rooms. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. which has 30 rooms. which has 49 rooms. basic equipment. the Budget Inn. % 702-237-5577. % 702-9642605. a heated pool and interior corridors. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. also called Main Street here. including the Comfort Inn. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. 1705 South Taylor Street. while on the southern edge of town. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. $-$$. with 10 rooms. $$$.
and its twin. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. located on the south side of town off US 93. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. $. which has 61 rooms. two-story hotel. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. % 702-237-9988. 1501 Avenue F. 1101 Aultman Street. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. 220 East 11th Street. For a more modern taste. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. 770 Avenue O. the inn has five rooms with private baths. % 702-289-4747. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. For a more genteel stay. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. 500 High Street. $-$$. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. has 21 rooms. 701 Avenue I.300. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. 700 Avenue I. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. $-$$. The Bristlecone Motel. $-$$$. 5th . the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. $$. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). After years of dormancy. $-$$. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. $$-$$$. 501 Aultman Street. 930 Aultman Street.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. Ely With a population of more than 5. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. % 702-289-4497. which has 19 rooms. % 702-2891234. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. The inn is open June through September. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. % 702-289-8687. % 702-289-8900. % 702-289-8838. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. the building was vacant 10 years later. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. There are also private balconies. % 702-289-4884. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. $-$$. $. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. is another living antique. % 702-289-6665. $-$$. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. % 702289-6671.
At presstime there were two places to stay in town. $-$$. % 702-237-7302. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. and two others outside of Baker. $-$$. % 702-289-3800. so call ahead for operating hours. % 702-234-7267. 24hour laundromat and showers. Behind the Silverjack. $. the Border Inn. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. with its seven rooms. % 702-234-7343.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. Utah. South of Baker at the national park boundary. % 702-289-3033. % 702-234-7323. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce.. Baker. and Whispering Elms RV Park. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. offers tipis and a campground. which has a laundromat and showers. PO Box 90. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. . % 702-289-4411. It is open June through August. is a favorite spot for travelers. NV 89311. 150 4th Street. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. guided tours and off-road adventures. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. % 702234-7323. $. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. $. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. % 702-234-7272. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. even fast food joints are nonexistent. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. The Silverjack Motel. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel.er. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. what with its 29 rooms.. $. % 702234-7300. 1301 Aultman Street. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. along with horseback riding. and the White Pine Motel. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely.
the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. including the few eateries. 125 South Maine Street. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. 70 South Maine Street. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. Tony’s. is also open for three squares a day. 1560 West Williams Avenue. 960 Auction Road. % 702423-6828. In 1929 and ’30. % 702-423-3111. however. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. % 702-867-3750. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. % 702-423-2117. The Mexican food at La Cocina. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. is known throughout Fallon. If your mind is on pizza. try Mary’s Owl . including McDonald’s. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. % 702-964-2220. is home to The Diner. Toiyabe Café. The Depot Casino. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. The International Café and Bar. In the 1920s and ‘30s.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. Café Nations. Carol’s Country Kitchen. 4150 Reno Highway. 1955 McClean Road. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. Stockman’s Casino. % 702-964-2493. % 702-423-3233. specializing in omelets and steaks. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. % 702-964-9905. % 702-423-6166. lunch and dinner. % 702-867-2769. 875 West Williams Avenue. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. have been serving great burgers. Kentucky Fried Chicken. % 702-423-5588. 1350 West Williams Avenue. Open for breakfast. is Fallon’s only coffee house. The Fallon Nugget Casino. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. Smack in the center of town. serves up steaks. Denny’s. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street).
Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. 2160 Aultman Street. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. Lahontan State Recreation Area. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. Jerry Restaurant No. 21. % 702-867-2332. Fallon RV Park. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. and Orient Express. % 702-867-3636. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. % 702-237-5280. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. % 702-289-4884. has 64 sites. might as well top it off in Eureka. 211 5th Street. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. % 702-237-5477. % 702-289-6665. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. 701 Avenue I. The Owl Club. 5787 Reno Highway. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. % 702-964-2627. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. serves a fine steak sandwich. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. West of Fallon. % 702-289-3905. % 702-289-3033. and Hubtotel RV Park. % 702-964-2412. which features prime rib.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. located three miles north of town on US 93. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. % 702-237-5356. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. % 702-289-4888. serving diner-style grub. 501 Aultman Street. 1455 Aultman Street. offers 45 sites. % 702-2289-3765. Believe it or not. The Fireside Inn. top sirloin steak and eggs. and is attached to a bar. The Busy Bee Drive-In. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. % 702-688-1500. 562 Aultman Street. % 702-289-3313. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. however. 4800 Reno Highway. where the restaurants are also along US 50. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. is also open 24 hours a day. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline.
Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. % 702-964-1011. set at 7. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. picnic tables and vault toilets. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. grills. where there are eight campsites set at 7. along with campfire rings. To reach Bird Creek campground. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. which are open June through September with running water.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. contact BLM Battle Mountain District. PO Box 1420. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. NV 89310.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. There is drinking water here. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. PO Box 130. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek.300 feet. Just east of the Eureka town limits. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). NV 89820. Battle Mountain. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. Bob Scott Campground. About nine miles south of Big Creek. North of Ely. Open April to October. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. For information. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. 24 miles east of Austin. None have running water. Austin RV Park. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. Just east of town. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. % 702-964-2671. There are 15 sites. After a few miles. both off of US 50. There are 10 sites here .800 feet. as there are no services near the water. % 702-635-4000. Finally. Austin. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. For more information and road conditions. No running water or firewood. then go a mile to County Road 1059. Only six miles southwest of Ely.500 feet. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7.
fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. In the center of the park. NV. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8.752 feet. has 100 sites. 89301. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. % 702-2893031. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Contact the visitors center. Ely. % 702-234-7331. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. and Valley View RV Park. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles.530 feet. There are 30 sites here at 7. Set at 7. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. % 702-2893413. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. To reach the campground from US 50. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. and there are no showers. Upper Lehman. % 702-2893303. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. The BLM.886 feet. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. On the northern edge of the park. on US 93. In Great Basin National Park. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. 350 8th Street. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93.300 feet. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. depending on weather conditions. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. For more information. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. this is the only park campground open all year.250 feet). % 702-289-4865. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. Pony Express Territory . Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9.
No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. Desert bighorn sheep. the oldest living thing on earth. started pulling core samples. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. Throughout history. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. humans. Named Methuselah. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. Today in Cowboy Country. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. He found one living specimen dating back 4. reaching as high as 11.000 feet and more. The short. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. not many of them stayed around very long. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. who described them as “lowly old giants. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. the state animal. call many parts of this high country home. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. Edmund Schulman. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. .” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia. sagebrushcovered sea.700 years. however.000-year-old duck decoys. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here.
attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. Winter brings rain and snow. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. bass and other gamefish. lakes and reservoirs. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. Summers are generally hot and dry. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. In fact. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. bikers and equestrians. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea.000 years. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. The weather here can be as wild as the land. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. towns like Winnemucca. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. Elko headed the list of the 100 . twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. In 1993. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. streams. and know how to use them. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. Carry good maps and a compass. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country.
including one named Samuel Clemens. Cowboy Country . took to sheepherding. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. followed by the doomed Donner Party. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. lunch and dinner. but thanks to new mining technology. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. both held in Elko. but everyday tools. after the riches ran out. parts of which are still visible today. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. In late 1860s. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. paralleled the Humboldt River. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. others moved on. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. But since the early days. This is a place where pick-up trucks. combed Cowboy Country. The famous trail.
The seat of 6. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. about 17 miles from Lovelock.300. arrived here in 1866. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. which crosses the Humboldt River. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds.000-square-mile Pershing County. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. turn left on Derby Road.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. With a population of just over 2. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. located on the southern outskirts of town. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. which the company named after him. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. which measures . Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. After eight miles. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. George Lovelock. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. Five miles southwest of the shelter. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite.
The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. picnicperfect park. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. clothing and household items. Lovelock. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. Scientific excavations. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. dark. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. Tufas. Admission is free. in 1886 or 1887. % 702-273-2713. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. NV 89419.Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. which also features the community pool. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . many of which were donated by locals. He may have been led there by Natchez. One of only two round courthouses in the country. PO Box 821. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. Mummified remains were found here. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. are large. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. the first ever in the Great Basin. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave.
After later taking the name Mark Twain. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. PO Box 821. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. % 702-273-2713. For details. NV 89419. is centered on this man-made lake. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. as well as opportunities for boating. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. below) and wellmanicured homes. see below under Adventures. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). Open all year. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. where stone . Lovelock. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations.134 n Cowboy Country vada. % 702-538-7321. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. fishing and camping. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. which seems close enough to touch. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. About 16 families reside in Unionville.
celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. Today their descendants. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. a good spot for a picnic. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). To reach Unionville from I-80. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. Edna Purviance. Curator . From here it’s five miles to the town. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. Winnemucca (population 7. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. % 702-623-2912. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. They later brought their families. Admission is free. except for lunch. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. dancing. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. a former resident. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. % 702/623-2225. the Humboldt Museum complex. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade.
352 Bridge Street. NV 89445. NV 89445. was erected in 1863. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. Winnemucca. . which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. Another gem is the Shone House. St. % 702623-5025. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. The tour visits 30 sites. Winnemucca. US Forest Service. Winnemucca. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. % 800-962-2638. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. % 702-623-1500. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard.000 in gold. nabbing $32. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. along with a thank you note. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. NV 89445. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. There is a gift shop next door. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. Winnemucca. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. % 702-623-5025.000. but all are easily drivable. 705 East Fourth Street. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. 95 Bridge Street. The thieves escaped to Texas. one of two in the country. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. NV 89445. The former First National Bank. Like something out of old Mexico. 602 Bridge Street. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management.
Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. all but 250 people left. and 2. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. along with the local watering hole. which . Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. A 20th-century ghost town. The Rochester Mining District. Three years later the village became Paradise City. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. after fending off resident Paiutes. Jungo. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. established Scottsdale in 1866. the town was an empty shell. once a busy town of more than 2. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. Midas is two miles from this junction. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. The camp was abandoned by 1869. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. Today about 100 people live in town. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. To reach the remains of the camp.300 people had moved by 1913. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. which serves as a meeting place and information center.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca.
verdant marshes. % 702-578-3381. Basque . The local mining. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. After all.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. Elko traces its roots back to 1868.) In town. offers a bar. % 702-623-5025. biking. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. Gas is also available. % 702-7383418. 1515 Idaho Street. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. sometimes an angler’s paradise. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. is easy to locate. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. deli and soda fountain. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. It’s the white. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. however. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. obtain maps. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. Just south of town. fishing and camping. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. located on the extreme east end of town. (See Adventures. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. A state park. beautiful high-country lake. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. this town of about 25. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. In Winnemucca.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. Paradise Saloon.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. (See Adventures and Camping. this is Cowboy Country.
1 PM to 5 PM. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. Deweys Rent-A-Car. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. also known as J.Touring n 139 immigrants. Harris Field. geography. Admission is free. % 702-738-7508. . Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). 501 Railroad Street. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. The Western Folklife Center.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 10 AM to 5 PM. and a charter airline. % 800-8727245. Hertz Rent-A-Car. geology and industry abound. and Sunday. % 702-738-7123.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. For airport information. 9 AM to 5 PM. % 800-331-1212. along with various other events throughout the year. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. El Aero Services. % 702-738-5131. % 800-453-9417. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June.C. % 800-654-3131. Displays of local wildlife.
% 702-753-0200. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months.387 feet at Ruby Dome. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. Elko. 89803. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. Elko. fishing and camping in the entire West. % 702-738-5171.800 feet). Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. From Elko.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. 90. 700 Moren Way.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. 976 Mountain City Highway. From town. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. passing Powerhouse picnic area. Elko. At the . located southeast of Elko.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. Humboldt National Forest. % 800-248-ELKO. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. 1601 Idaho Street. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. 3900 East Idaho Street. 89801. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. with elevations ranging up to 11. 89801. Alpine vistas. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. 89801. (See Adventures and Camping. Elko Chamber of Commerce. % 702-738-7135. including the remote. Elko. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty.
gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. see below. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. this town sticks to Mountain Time. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads.387 feet. then north another 25 miles. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. From Wells. a high clearance vehicle is required. check with the owners of the Trading Post. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. The road leads east 21 miles. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. and by the 1930s the rush was over. so drive cautiously. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. is spectacular. Ruby Dome. and there’s no argument here. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. is visible in the west. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. For access to both. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. Idaho.500 people flooded into the region. (See On Foot. Nevada. the road meets the Jarbidge River. .Touring n 141 crest. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. For details on all of this. From the south. rising 11. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. Even when they are open. Yes. or call them at % 702-488-2315. down into Jarbidge Canyon. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. turns south. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. More than 1. U-shaped valley. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon.
stare out across the famous. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. Before entering town. the presence of casinos. For ghost town fans. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. % 801-665-7721.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. stop at Horizon Viewpoint.) On the Utah side of the state line. The town was abandoned in 1942. the 44. 4 and go five miles northeast. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. which rises to 11. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. the main difference between the two sides being. Sunday until 9 PM.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. 647 Humboldt Avenue. Bonneville Speedway Museum. of course. % 702-752-3215. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. n Wendover From Wells. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. try Stuart’s Foodtown. both available at the Trading Post. To access the flats. The range is also home to Angel Lake. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. the main artery running up the east side of the state. reached easily via a paved highway. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. however. head east from the border. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. Cool. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. n Wells From Elko. and the 37. This is also the junction of US 93. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. exit at No.
000 buckaroos. % 702-664-3414. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. The night before the events. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. Eagles. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. which attracts upwards of 10. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. first at the Miner’s Rodeo.600 feet in two miles. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. is held in late March or early April. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. June Both hay. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. the historic World War II B-29s. a . which gains 1. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. hawks. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. falcons and ospreys are common.
Phone numbers can be found above. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. call % 702-635-8245. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. July In July. dancing. under Touring.. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. For details. Near Wendover.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. The town of McDermitt. Unless otherwise indicated. There is a traditional dance contest. The largest Basque get-together in the US. a parade and feats of strength. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. . arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. when tanks. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. featuring food. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. six. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. hear the music and eat the food. In Wendover. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information.or 23-mile loop. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month.
but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. passable by high-clearance vehicles. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. To reach the trail. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. which . the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. The trailhead appears after three miles.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. 1994. Falcon Press Publishing. the road. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. From here. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. lupine and leopard lilly are common here.834 feet).732) is the highest point.200 feet. Aspen. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. crossing Buffalo Creek. From the top. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. Pronghorn antelope. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. Star Peak. The trail is punishing. Star Peak (elevation 9. including the 31.000 feet in four miles. willow and cottonwood country. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. leads due east toward the highest point. climbing more than 4. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. The first half of the moderately strenous. Granite Peak (elevation 9. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. Chartered in 1989. To reach the trailhead. This makes for a great loop drive.
A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip. more than 10. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. narrow canyons. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. The gravel and dirt road runs 5.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. including Singas Creek. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. cirque basins. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak.” Elevations range from 6. rolling sage-covered hills and steep.6 miles to a parking area. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. Horses are welcome on these trails. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. USGS 7. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. about one mile south of town.415). eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). glacial lakes. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. Mountain lions. where you turn south. Hikers can visit rock peaks. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. Come prepared for anything. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out.800 feet above sea . The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. descends toward a watercourse.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. depending on weather conditions. % 702-623-5025. big horn sheep. Return the way you came.
The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. Feel free. of course. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. Hyslop. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko.400 feet and heads north. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. % 702-752-3357. From Roads End. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. set at 9. Pause to rest but not to fish. The pass is often closed in winter. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead.500 feet. a computer instructor at Great Basin College. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. After about a mile and a half. know this region as well as anyone. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. as there are no trout here. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way.400 feet. Franklin Lake NW. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. so check road conditions before heading out. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. At 10. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. and his dog Molly. The five-mile. The 1. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike.Adventures n 147 level. cross Lamoille Creek a few times.300-foot . Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. this is the high point of the trek. % 702-738-7135.
follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. Finally. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. From the trailhead. Just past the spring. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. Return the way you came.000-foot mark. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. Most of the paths are found in the 113. subalpine forests. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. On a good day. The trail drops again. Wild- . ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. Unfortunately.000 feet to 10. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). the closest town. Idaho. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more.700 feet.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
Fishing is best in spring and early summer. To reach the lake from Elko. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site. rainbows. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. % 702-623-5025. mountain whitefish. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. campsites and restrooms. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. and everything is open year-round. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. call % 702-758-6493. brown and rainbow trout. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- .Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. The site has a paved boat ramp. is also a good fishing spot. Channel cats. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. supports brook.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. For more information. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. and black bass have become a favorite catch. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River.
Within six miles of the trailhead. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. Turn left and head south 32 miles. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. white-faced ibis.000 acres. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. To reach the refuge from Elko. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. trumpeter swam. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. elevation 8. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. For more information. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. Angel Lake Near Wells. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. so check road conditions before heading out. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow.800 feet. At the foot of the range. brook trout also run in Angel Creek.154 n Cowboy Country ers. great sandhill crane. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. % 702-738-5171. For an easier drive from Wells. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. midway between the northern and southern portions. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. contact the US Forest Service. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. . The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. short-eared owl and American kestrel. including bald and golden eagle. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road.
89801. Secret Pass Outfitters. 2511 Mountain City Highway. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. HC 60. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. 285 12th Street. % 702779-2268. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. % 702779-2226. HC 60. % 702-625-2453. are the best bets here.400-acre lake. 89801. In warmer months. PO Box 515. have become a local haven for divers. 89801. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . % 702-7442277. % 702-7388473. PO Box 685. % 702-664-3414. 89801. For more information. Raley’s. crystalline Blue Lakes. Grandview Marine. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. HC30 Box 17 #13. 1250 Lamoille Highway. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. Rainbow. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. % 702-7382775. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. Elko Guide Service. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. To reach the 2. the spring-fed. catfish. 89833. % 702-777-DIVE. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. 423 South Bridge Street. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. 89833. the bowcut trout.
156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. The Lovelock Inn. lodging and all the extras. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. is convenient to I-80. 55 Cornell Avenue. $-$$. 1420 Cornell Avenue.200 feet. Although there isn’t a television to be found. % 702-738-7135. pool and jacuzzi. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. . To reach the ranch from I80. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. $$$. Elko SnoBowl.500 to 6. $$. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. ranging from 5. covering 5.000 acres of skiable mountain. Lunch and dinner are extra. lounge. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables.200 vertical feet. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. not to mention 74 rooms. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. with a 24-hour casino. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. % 702-273-2937. Trips are limited to 16 people. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. depending on snowfall. then head west for five miles to town. % 702-538-7585. % 800-528-1234. offers 130 acres of terrain. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. The outfit boasts 5. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. is the most happening place in town. % 702-753-6867. restaurant. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. 2805 Unionville Road. one tame and the other decidedly not so.500 feet. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible.
49-room Ameritel Inn Express. is for you. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. % 702-738-8425. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$$. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. offering 70 rooms. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. and the Days Inn. % 702-738-8421. 2050 Idaho Street. and the Motel 6. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. in- . There are three Best Westerns in Elko. % 702-7387261. $$$$$.000. basic motels on the main drag. 400 1st Street. $-$$. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. $-$$. 837 Idaho Street. 3015 Idaho Street. but also its own charter airline. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. The Gold Country Inn. % 702-623-3661. restaurant and full bar. 1930 Idaho Street. the 80-room Val-U Inn. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-5248. with 150 rooms. 2065 Idaho Street. the Super 8. $$-$$$. % 702-625-1818. % 800-633-6435. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. Casino Express. $$-$$$. offers 40 rooms. $$. % 800-645-5658. the Gold Country Motor Inn. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-738-8787. % 702-623-3646. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). % 800-545-0044. $$. the Red Lion Inn. % 702-623-1180. and the generic. % 800-346-5306. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. There are also two Best Westerns. % 702-623-1116. % 800-262-8901. casino. a lounge with live entertainment. and the Model T Motel. The Red Lion not only has a casino. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. $-$$. starting with the two biggies. the Red Lion Inn.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. There are plenty of cheap. $$. the 170-room Holiday Inn. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. restaurant and bar. $$. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. including the queen of Elko establishments. $$-$$$. and the Holiday Motel. $$. a pool and 223 rooms. eateries. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. $$-$$$$. the Ameritel Inn Elko.
The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. PO Box 281208. % 702-738-8488. $$-$$$. The Shilo Inn. Stonehouse Country Inn. . hiking and fly fishing. $$. 2401 Mountain City Highway. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. % 702-753-6281. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. $$-$$$. There are 141 rooms. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. has 70 rooms. biking and horseback riding. % 702-738-5141. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. some with kitchenettes. Lamoille. a swimming pool. There is even space for campers and RVers. and the Thunderbird Motel. along with a pool. $$$-$$$$. 89828. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. % 702-738-5522. 1755 Idaho Street. Stockmen’s Hotel. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. $$$$. Red’s Ranch. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. jacuzzi and fitness center. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. $-$$. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. PO Box 281381. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. $-$$. is an exclusive. restaurants. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. % 702-738-7115. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. bar and pool. % 702-753-6363.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. detached cabin with jacuzzi. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. $$. $$$-$$$$. 340 Commercial Street. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. 345 Idaho Street. Away from Idaho Street. Just outside of Lamoille. $-$$. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. $$$-$$$$. including skeet shooting. % 702-753-6356. % 702-578-3530. Jiggs Guest Ranch. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast.
$-$$$$. % 702-752-3888. $-$$. 326 6th Street. offers another 24 rooms. the Outdoor Inn. $. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. Cottonwood Ranch. 1250 East 6th Street. 89826. $. $$-$$$. % 702-752-3604. % 702-752-2151. There are more than 1. $$$-$$$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. PO Box 260090. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. Down the street. HC 62. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. $-$$. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. % 800-848-7300. % 702-7523065. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. even by the neighbors in Utah. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. % 702-4082338. PO Box 1300. 100 Wendover Boulevard. 456 6th Street. $-$$. 930 6th Street. For more information. $$-$$$. There are 57 rooms. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. $-$$. % 702-752-2116. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. PO Box 300. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. Jarbidge. The Super 8. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. Together . HC 62. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. % 702-752-2101. % 702-488-2315. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. the Rest Inn Suites. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. if you’re into chains. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. has 56 rooms. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. 576 6th Street. If not. % 702-488-2311. the Chinatown Motel. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. which also has a restaurant and bar. On Main Street. most of them planted along 6th Street. % 702-752-3353. On the north side of town. % 702-752-2277. $. and the Best Western Sage Motel. % 702-752-3384. $. and the Old West Inn. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options.
000-square-foot casino. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. live entertainment. offers breakfast. pool and jacuzzi. which basks in the Basque tradition. restaurants. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. % 702-664-2888. % 702-623-3197. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. pool. Nearby. 1420 Cornell Avenue. the Super 8. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. 260 Maine Street. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. shrimp and Basque side dishes. $$. a health club. including restaurants and lounges. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. % 702-273-7444. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. lunch and dinner. tennis courts. % 800-648-9660.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. In the center of town. and until 2 PM on Sunday. and Pizza Factory. 680 Wendover Boulevard. 410 Cornell Avenue. 485 Cornell Avenue. % 702-273-7773. % 702-273-2442. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. % 702-273-2971. live showroom entertainment. is open until 10 PM every day. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. serving steak. along with daily specials. $$-$$$. 750 Cornell Avenue. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. is another gamer’s haven. with 90 rooms. 9 PM on Sunday. lounges. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. . One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. a 14. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. % 800-537-0207. La Casita. leg of lamb. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. Wee B’s Pizza & More. The Peppermill Hotel. % 702-273-3232. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. Mexican food and pizza. jacuzzi. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. which has live entertainment. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. $-$$. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets.
405 Silver Street. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. 95 South Bridge Street. This being ranch country. % 702-625-2555. % 702-623-6777. % 702-623-4104. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. % 702-738-3214. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. 2065 Idaho Street. but get there before 1 PM. . The Steak House. Stockmen’s Hotel. Elko The Red Lion Inn. % 800-545-0044. China Garden. % 702-623-2908. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. % 702-623-2977. 1061 West Fourth Street. Restaurante San Fermin. Another Basque establishment. all of their meat is cut to order. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. while The Griddle. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. 340 Commercial Street. % 702-738-9691. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-4440. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. since 1863. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. % 702-738-5141. seafood and chicken. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. Toki Ona. The atmosphere is definitely casual. % 702-623-3455. home of the world’s largest potato field.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 1550 Idaho Street. 180 Melarkey Street. Specializing in steak. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard.
1740 Mountain City Highway. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. % 702-738-7898. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. Pine Lodge. Main and Humboldt Streets. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. . % 702-7382541. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. % 702-738-1622.300 souls. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. % 702-753-6356. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). If you crave Mexican food. where it survived The Big One in ’06. depending on weather conditions. 780 Commercial Street. % 702-753-6363. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. 9 Beans and a Burrito. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. to peruse the ornate bar. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. % 702-4882315. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. Prices range from moderate to expensive. opens daily at 11 AM. 2525 Mountain City Highway. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. % 702-488-2311. La Fiesta.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. Burger Bar. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. % 702-753-3877. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. also serves hearty meals. delivers on its name. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. % 702-752-3210. 217 Idaho Street. % 702-738-7088. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. Pizza Barn. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties.
$3 per night in winter. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Sites 22. % 800-848-7300. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. the area has two campgrounds. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. just north of the dam.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. % 800-648-9660. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. Set at 7. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. call % 702-738-5171. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. offer 12 different restaurants. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. The local creek runs in spring and early summer.400 feet. The Peppermill Hotel. The fee is $7 per night. For more information. 100 Wendover Boulevard. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. There is running water and vault toilets. two beautiful US Forest Service . and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter.600 feet. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. The other one.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. which holds trout and walleye. 22 miles north of Lovelock. Set at 7. located at the end of Hanson Street. call % 702-538-7321.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. For more information. The main draw here is 11. call % 800-962-2638. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. Fees are $7 per night in summer. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. 23. For more information. For modern hunter-gatherers. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. 27 and 29 are especially good. $8 for a two-family site.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. 25.
depending on the availability of running water. % 702-752-3357. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. The fee is $5 per night.900 feet. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. has 37 first-come. Angel Creek is set at 6. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. Set at 8. with running water. all free. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. One mile north of town. offering 18 sites with running water. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. The campground. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells.800 feet and is popular with anglers.500 feet. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. For more information. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. About five miles up NV 225. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. and the fee is $8 per night. The cabins are open October through mid-May. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. and the fee is $7 per night. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. . % 208-5434129. but no running water. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. including three run by the US Forest Service. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. first-served sites. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. For information on the above campgrounds. and are open June to October.
Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. an 11. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. writer. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. Others. are in a state of “arrested decay.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. who once roamed this entire area. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. like Belmont and Rhyolite. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. both socially and physically. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. however. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. Meanwhile. US For- B Pioneer Territory . like Silver Peak and Goldfield.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
the following section assumes adventurers will start there.Touring n 167 est Service. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Nevada Division of State Parks. Rocky Mountain elk. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. In the Mojave Desert. Toiyabe. then limber pine at higher elevations. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. affordable housing . pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. but the rest of the country. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year.000. People and services are scarce. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. Department of Defense. Geographically. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. low taxes. In the lowlands. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. and six state parks to explore. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains.
as of this writing. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. In 1997. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. 3810 Winery Road. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. contact the Chamber of Commerce. mission-style. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. According to Winona LaDuke. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. authorizing up to 90. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. only winery in Nevada. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. blue and white building. On the south end of town in a modern. 1141 South Highway 160. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. there’s no competition). is the first and. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. It’s also one of the hottest. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. The 22. % 702-7270896.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. % 702-751-0821. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. % 702-727-5800.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . % 702-7276900. 1771 Sagehen Road. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty.
go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. great blue herons. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. . prairie falcons. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. coyotes and rabbits. for some handmade Mexican food. then head west for about 20 miles. coots.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. It’s no easy job. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. moorhens. Visitors can. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. snipe. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. however. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. % 702-372-1131. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. HCR 70.300 spread over 545 square miles. including ducks. NV 89020. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. mallards. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. and the second-greatest in all of North America. inaccessible to the general public. Box 610Z. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. whitefaced ibises. % 702-372-5435. Amargosa Valley. following the signs to Ash Meadows. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country.
A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. Now recognized as a state historic site.000. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. . 50 saloons. the gray. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street.000. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. % 702-5532200. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. Kelly’s Bottle House. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. HC 70. and the old train depot. PO Box 6102. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley. three newspapers. maps. Amargosa Valley. NV 89020. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information.000 claims over 30 square miles. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. for more information. 19 hotels. % 702-3725459.
Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. life-size. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion.000. keeping a population of more than 20. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. . Once the largest city in the state. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. Today the remains of stone buildings. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. By 1920. In the first decade of the 20th century. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. Goldfield Founded in 1902. however. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. turn-of-the-century frontier community. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. % 702-553-2424.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River.” a collection of white.000 dizzy with gold fever. Local residents were used as models. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. crystal chandeliers. constructed in 1908 for $500. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. when the money ran dry. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby.
About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. % 702-482-9676.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. built in 1908 and still in use today. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. the Central Nevada Museum. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. % 702-485-6365. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. however. including the old post office that is now the local museum. and spend a few hours following its trail. . Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. % 702482-3558. 301 Brougher Avenue. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. Before heading out. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. and east-west-running US 6. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce.
Mineral. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. see below under On Foot. slide show and research facilities. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. Bartlett House. For more information. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. ore bins. which helped put the state on the map. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. Admission is free. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. Located on the north edge of town. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. which dates to 1906.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted.000 acres. Like many Nevada locales. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. For more on these wonderful regions. including a map room. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. A library. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. which total more than 260. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. 9 AM to 5 PM. with Hawthorne the new seat. and the 1907 George A. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. As a judge. power plants. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. call % 702-482-5355. The museum is open daily. the town exploded – figuratively – and . As this is being written. are available by special request. In 1911. photographs and exhibits.
% 702-945-5142.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. Near the northern tip of the lake. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. Nevada seat and the Mono . at the corner of 10th and D streets. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. Victorian furniture. fire and railroad equipment. noon to 4 PM in winter. minerals. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. At the zenith of its existence. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. The Mineral County Museum. a combination truck stop. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining.500 people. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. the town boasted 1. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself.000 residents. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. wildlife and fossils. restaurant and Native American gift shop. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. Take this road six miles to the town. cameras and photography. however.000. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. (See On Water.) Before heading to the lake. Admission is free. below. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. The main attraction. % 702-945-3266. 898 E Street. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. paved road on the right. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. To reach Candelaria. rocks. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. and by 1890 the good times were over. just three miles from the California border. To see where it all started. is nearby Walker Lake.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
200 feet. For information on any or all. set at 5. All of them offer overnight camping.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. pinyon and juniper forests. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. native plants and unique rock formations. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. There are 42 campsites. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. The park. located in a long.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. below). Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. From Caliente. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. Boats are not recommended. The 2. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. is open year-round. along with many other events.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. % 702-728-4467. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. From . but travel is not advised during winter months. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs.
Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. for a walking/driving tour map. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. true believers theorize. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. hazy afternoon. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869.000. The original building costs totaled $16. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. Winter travelers might also find snow here. There are 37 campsites. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. From Caliente. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. government cover-ups. they ran up to $1 million.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. Packed with historic points of interest. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. % 702-962-5215. men in black and all things conspiratorial. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. All told. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake.
The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. The park is open all year. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . a thought scarier than any little green men. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. selling souvenirs and literature. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. or fish lizards. including the old mill. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. sleeping quarters. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. Ichthyosaurs. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. a bar and cemetery. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. % 702-729-2515. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. If you’re in the neighborhood.
Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. the highest point in Nevada at 13. To reach the park from Hawthorne. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. up through the sparse forest of . Return the way you came. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. deer. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. April. Interpretive tours are held in March. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. There are numerous access points to the 115. to NV 884. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. where desert bighorn sheep.140 feet. through Gabbs. June. Located in the relatively dry. August. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. October and November. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. For more information. The trail seems faint at times. The trail climbs nearly 2. From here. elk. turn right. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. From here go seven miles to a junction. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border. then half a mile east. mountain lion.000 feet in 3½ miles. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. July. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. The hike begins on the road.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. following a stream into Trail Canyon. travel west six miles to NV 773. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. call % 702-867-3001. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak.
too. nine miles from the trailhead.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. The path descends further. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. up and up alongside the South Twin River. The main trail leads straight ahead. limber pine. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. About 500 yards beyond the mill. Consult Toms Canyon. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. the trail gains 1. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. About a mile and a half later.020-foot Peavine Peak.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. and at higher elevations. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. USGS quads for Carvers NW.361-foot Arc Dome.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). another narrow. . meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Pine Creek. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. The 38. where it crosses the water several times. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. pinyon pine and juniper.
gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. Return the way you came. which tops out at 11. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. deer and coyote. In fact. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. going west. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. is imposing Mount Jefferson.949 feet above sea level. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. south. From Tonopah. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff.000 years ago. 11. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. Turn left and head toward the highest point. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. After turning west. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. mountain lion. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. literally and figuratively. The summit trail. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. . which marks the way to Pine Creek. It was used as a hunting camp 5.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. is lined with aspen and birch. The high point. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails.
with Dry Lake off to the west. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah.000 acres. The 98. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. so travel with care. The trail first splits at mile three. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. As you’ll see. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory .Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. To complete a nice loop hike. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). set aside in 1989. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. This is remote.856foot Monitor Peak. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. Elk. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. rugged country. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. The main trail continues straight ahead. From the trailhead. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. climbing up the creek drainage. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. Hikers should have maps and a compass. and the skills to use them. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands.
refer to Michael C. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Wilderness Press. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. some will lead hikes and photography trips. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. crosses the water and begins a steep. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. Enjoy the views. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. Also close by. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. then continue south two miles back to the campground. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. then descending into Ash Canyon. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. % 702-4826286. White’s masterful book. Once atop the plateau. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. . & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. in Echo Canyon State Park. Meanwhile. 1997. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide.
unmarked hike to the summit. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. Expeditions Unlimited. Berg. % 702-964-1207. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. James S. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Just beyond the right-of-way. turn left and head due south. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. Lund Gary Luisetti. 89447. Grand Slam Safaris. HCR 60.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. Jr. climbing into a small valley. 27 Smith Gage Road. % 702-463-4497.. PO Box 65. Mason Valley Guide Service. Timberline Outfitters. Round Mountain William A. 89045. Nicholas Perchetti. Yerington Marty S. 8½ miles from US 95. PO Box 725. Galvin. 89045. leaving a strenuous. 89317. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. which. Timberline Outfitters. Howard. 89049. PO Box 168. 89430. The road turns east briefly. then continues south to a junction. Roy Lerg. 89049. PO Box 162. (If you pass Millers. you’ve gone too far. % 702-482-6258. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. % 702-964-2145. PO Box 428. % 702-482-6422.108 feet. Moapa Adam R. Stahl. at 9.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. Lewis. Smith. 89025. Box 77206. Mustang Outfitters. % 702-465-2598. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. . PO Box 1149. % 702-283-7797.
where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. Continuing north. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. Manhattan boomed. The other ruins are on private property. % 702377-2490. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. known for abundant wildlife. so keep your distance. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. Belmont saw most of the 2. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. A few dozen people still live in the area. Just north of Pine Creek. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. however. which was first settled in the 1860s.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. The Belmont Saloon. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. is open for business on weekends. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . For road conditions. and Pine Creek. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. % 702-482-6331.000 to construct in 1876. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues.
The springs are half a mile away.2 mile west of Lockes going south. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. For more information contact the BLM. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. then part of Utah Territory. Pioneer Territory Mt. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. to establish missions. From Pioche. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Wilson National Back Country Byway. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. mountain mahogany and aspen. but check on road conditions before you go. the fauna changes to ponderosa. . take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. Continuing north. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. Three hot pools are found on two acres here.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. stay out. Not only is the water very hot. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. As tempting as a bath might seem. the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. Take an unpaved road . % 702-482-7800. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park.
Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. 13. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. % 702-727-8276. Two of the best spots are Peavine . so take the necessary precautions before heading out. % 702289-4865. At Oakridge Landing.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. % 702727-4504. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. brown. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. cutthroat and rainbow trout. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. 5340 South Oakridge Road. contact the BLM. Just a mile north of Dyer. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. Information Sources For more information and a map. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer.140-foot Boundary Peak.
. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. Fishing derbies are held in February. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. In fact. After the road peters out. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. picnic facilities and boat ramp. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. rainbow and brown trout. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat.7 miles north of Hawthorne). They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. % 702-482-6286. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. Covering 37. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. however. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19.000 acres.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. The lake is named for Joe Walker. October and November. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range.4 miles). then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. April.
with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. % 702-394-4040. which are stocked in spring and fall. while Canada geese. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. 93514. CA. % 702-725-3417. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. are the main attraction here. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Kathleen L. for details.000 acres. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. but motors are prohibited. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. % 760-872-2533 . 633 Schley Street.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Bishop. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. NV 89415. Hawthorne. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Contact the refuge office. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). Boaters are welcome. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. Brown trout. largemouth bass and white crappie. about 13 miles south of the confluence. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Classic Anglers. write the group at PO Box 867. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. Howe.
The big enchilada is Saddle West. 89104. 89045. 89049. 89045. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. The family-style outings. PO Box 65. Nicholas Perchetti. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. PO Box 168. at least temporarily. % 702-482-6258. PO Box 1149. 89447. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West.. PO Box 725. Howard. Box 77206. Stahl. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. HCR 60. Timberline Outfitters. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. Galvin. % 702-964-1207. Timberline Outfitters. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Advance reservations are highly suggested. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. home on the range. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. % 702-3721717. % 702-482-6422. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. James S. Jr. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Mustang Outfitters. Tonopah Stanley R. % 702-964-2145. 89049.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. Suite 9B. % 702-889-8844. 1220 South Highway 160. Mason Valley Guide Service. Berg. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . which include an authentic trailside barbecue.
hair salon. % 702-4853431. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. $-$$. % 702-553-2333. a convenience store. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. With 110 rooms. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. including a heated pool. 9000 North 5th Avenue. % 702-727-5100. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. Don’t worry. US 95 at First Street. though. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. $-$$. % 702553-2912. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. $-$$. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. % 800-508-9493. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. lounge. non-smoking rooms and a pool. % 702-727-5445. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. 420 West Main Street. There are 60 rooms. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. The other two motels are the El Portal. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. $-$$. a casino with live 21. while the inn offers laundry services. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. $-$$. The Exchange Club Motel. Highway 160 at Loop Road. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. In short. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. . $. casino and lounge. $-$$. $. was built in 1905. along with a pool and honeymoon room. has 32 rooms. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. A lounge with live entertainment. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. $-$$. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. % 702-553-2225. 604 Main Street. % 702-553-2250. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. 1201 South Highway 160. which has 30 rooms and a pool. $-$$. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. a restaurant. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel.
100 South Main Street. % 702-482-6202. % 702-482-6291. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. 540 F Street. RV parking and free continental breakfast. 1301 5th Street. Adjacent to Walker Lake. workout equipment. including four two-bedroom units. a casino. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. free movies and is close to the convention center. RV hookups. Some of the larger. has 39 rooms. Just a block away. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. $. The Jim Butler Motel. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. Even dogs are welcome. % 702-482-6238. lounge with entertainment. and the 33-room Clown Motel. a heated pool and a small play area. % 702-482-6224. arcade and laundry. has been catering to travelers since 1943. $. % 702-482-9777. 700 Main Street. comes highly rated. the Butler has 25 rooms. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. $-$$. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. a restaurant and free coffee. $. a Jacuzzi and a pool. location. also has a pool. restaurants. The . % 702-482-3577. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. It has 94 rooms. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. 1 Cliff House Road. This place has it all: 75 rooms. which has 93 rooms. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. % 702-945-3352. If you’re into chains. $. $. $. Location. with a restaurant. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. There are 103 rooms.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. $. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. Dating back to 1908. 1100 Main Street. $. 100 North Main Street. 826 Main Street. 255 Main Street. 323 Main Street. 521 North Main Street. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. pool and free in-room coffee. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. two restaurants. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. % 702-945-2660. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. lounge. $$. % 702-482-3511. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. % 702482-5920. at very reasonable rates. and the sprawling Station House. a restaurant and bar. a casino. $. The Best Western Desert Lodge. % 702-945-3321. 1402 5th Street. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. with 40 rooms. $$. % 702-945-2444.
$. has 67 rooms. on the corner of 5th and J streets. a golf course. pool and spa. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. formerly Players Island. bowling alley.900 or so residents. which has two non-smoking rooms. Just west of Smith in Wellington. Jacuzzi. 2827 Highway 208. The Casa Blanca. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. various restaurants. % 702-346-7444. $$-$$$. % 702-945-2544.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. % 800-621-0187. and the Rocket. 965 Sierra Highway. RV park and four bungalows. fitness center and live music. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. with blueprints for hundreds more. $$. the Hawthorne. % 702-463-2998. airport shuttle. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 301 Mesa Boulevard. a pool. Jacuzzi. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. % 702-465-2573. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. bars. has five rooms. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. a pool and a hot tub. Run by the Masini family. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. entertainment. $. Jacuzzi. 11 North Main Street. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. $$. pool. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. % 702-465-2341. $. with a 24-hour casino. $$. % 800-346-7721. has 700 rooms. including dozens of suites. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. $-$$$. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. % 800-346-4611. restaurants. a lounge. % 702-465-2959. % 702-945-3316. 390 North Sandhill Road. which has 14 rooms.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. $. $-$$. $$-$$$. % 702-463-2991. % 702-945-2143. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. To find a quieter environment. $-$$. % 702-945-2573. . pool and movie theater. 720 Sierra Highway. family fun center and an airport shuttle. 694 Sierra Highway. which at last count had 1. tennis courts. which has 14 rooms. $-$$. movie theater and kids’ play area. 39 North Center Street. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. pool. % 800-896-4567. % 702-463-2481. live entertainment. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. a pair of family-style restaurants. golf course. $$-$$$. $-$$. a 925-seat showroom.
Flying saucer parking is out back. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. % 702-9625404. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. $. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. % 702-729-2515. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. % 702-726-3291. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. . % 702-726-3106. % 702-751-7777. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. $. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. the Silver Spur. Stagestop Casino. % 702-962-5551. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. $-$$. a restaurant and bar. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. 100 LaCour Street.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. $-$$. % 702-727-6440. % 702726-3777. 100 West Stagecoach Road. is open 24 hours a day.99. % 702-727-2404. % 702-727-7777. has 13 rooms. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. Besides. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. 450 Front Street. No fast food. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. 1220 South Highway 160. At Saddle West Casino. and welcomes pets. and the buffet starts at $2. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. Rose Garden. % 702-727-7300. also have full-service restaurants. $. $. which has 22 rooms. 884 A Street. pharmacy and bank. % 702-727-0909. which has five rooms. 601 South Highway 160. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375.
1291 5th Street. The . The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. % 702-553-2368.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. % 702-9452994. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. The Station House. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. % 702-945-5253. 1100 Main Street. Yerington Casino West. Traditional American and Continental fare. also has a 24-hour café. also have family-style restaurants. % 702-4823885. % 702-945-3321. % 702-945-1700. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. you could do worse than El Marques. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. 348 North Main Street. 11 North Main Street.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. 570 E Street. % 702482-9777. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. % 702-482-6202. % 702-945-2727. open until 9 PM. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. 100 North Main Street. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. is the home of two restaurants. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. has a great $7. try Happy Buddha. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. % 702-945-3908. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. % 702-945-3320. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. Maggies. fill the menu. 923 5th Street. and Burro Inn. % 702-463-2481. 785 E Street. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. The Exchange Club. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. % 702-553-2111. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. including excellent seafood. 540 F Street. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. % 800508-9493. 501 I Street. % 702-5532225.
Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. Carl’s Burgers. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. Dini’s Luck Club. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. is like a blast from the 50s. 111 Highway 208. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. % 702463-2868. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. 2281 West Scales Way. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. % 702-4623300.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. which serves breakfast. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. There’s even an indoor workout facility. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. satisfying and never-ending. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. The Mason Valley Country Club. Two blocks up. Peavine Campground is set at 6. has a 24-hour coffee shop. along with the usual buffet. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. % 702-727-2314. % 800-896-4567. 702-726-3138. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. serves breakfast. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . To reach the campground from Tonopah. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. 11 North ALT 95. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. lunch and dinner. The Virgin River Hotel. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. % 800-346-7721. 45 North Main Street. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. The Casa Blanca. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. % 702-4633707. % 800-621-0187.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. % 702-463-2054. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. % 702-7263194.
From here. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. above. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness.800 feet in the Monitor Range. To reach the campground from Tonopah. offers sites for $11 per night. To reach the campground from Tonopah.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. There is no running water and no fee. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. contact the BLM. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. providing access to fishing and hiking. through Belmont. From Tonopah. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. the unpaved road goes south briefly. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89.100foot level. % 702-4826286. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. For information. For directions. The campground is another three miles away. There are 11 sites set at 6. % 702-687-6100. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005.700 feet. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. see On Foot. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. . running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. % 702-945-3373. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah.
1996.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. DeLorme. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Falcon Press Publishing. Suggested Reading . Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. 1995. Falcon Press Publishing. Noonday Press. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. 1994. 1990. American Automobile Association. 1995. American Automobile Association. 1998. Basin and Range by John McPhee. They are listed in alphabetical order. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Moon Publishing. 1993. published by the State of Nevada. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. Henry Holt and Company. 1993. 1997. 1997. David Communications. Frank Amato Publications. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs.
1993. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. 1969. Falcon Press Publishing. 1997. Bischoff. Wilderness Press. Jr. 1995. 1992. Falcon Press Publishing. . Roughing It by Mark Twain. Maturi.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. Mojave Books. White. Legend and Description by David J. La Siesta Press. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. The Globe Pequot Press. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C.. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. 1997. 1997. American & Geographic World Publishing. Stolley. 1993. Gem Guides Book Company. Clark. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell.
festivals. Pioneer territory. 182. 118. 169. touring. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 26-27 buses. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 137 Candelaria. 67-70. 78 BLM. biking. 193 Aurora. Pony Express territory. Pony Express territory. 132-133. accommodations. 152. 120-123. see also petroglyphs. 13-15. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 50-52. camping. 194. hiking outfit- Index . 103. 179. horseback riding. 155 boating. accommodations. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 142. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. Pioneer territory. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. 75-76. see water sports car rental. 104. hiking. 131. outfitters. specific towns airlines. wagon trips. 67 bowling. 125-128. 164. camping.183. touring. 198. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. Lovelock Indian Cave. biking. 117-119. 146. see also zoos. 102. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 181-182 bighorn sheep. Pioneer territory.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 168-169. touring. fishing. camping. 34-35 Boundary Peak. restaurants. 193. 28. touring. 35. 29. 187-190. 41-43. Pony Express territory. 17. 38. Las Vegas area. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 132. 13. 169-170 Anasazi people. 129-130 bungee jumping. 156160. 117-118. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 10-12. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. 77. camping. Reno-Tahoe area. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 2. see also camping. 86. 78. 142. Cottonwood Valley. 182-183. safety rules. 43-44. special events. 183-184. wild. 197. Elko. hiking. 121. 91 Barley Creek. 17. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. 32. 48-49. 15-16 bird watching. 124 auto racing. 144. 123. restaurants. 126. restaurants. 10. 36. 154 animal life. 115-116 ballooning. 184. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 193-197. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 15-16. Bonneville Salt Flats. Las Vegas territory. price scale. 94-95. 174 canoeing. 46. 144. 3135. 194. fishing. 85. see transportation Carson City. 15-16. 198. events. pictographs art galleries. 200 altitude sickness. camping. Reno-Tahoe area. 76. 187-188 biking. 179. 89. 118. 187-190. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 200 Basque people. transportation. Ichthyosaur State Park. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. Las Vegas. 92-96. 163-164. 119-120. safety rules. restaurants. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. 27 books. 49. 144 backpacking. 199-201. 185. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 144 Beatty: accommodations. 113. 199. Leonard Rock Shelter. 186 Belmont. 135. 174-175 Austin. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 54-55. events. see transportation air tours. Reno-Tahoe area. 152. 115. skydiving. Mount Jefferson. 42 burros. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). 8386. biking. 27. 181-182. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 104-107. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 117.
106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 118. 98 fossils. 185. 6-7 ters. 152. camping. 111. 88. 29. 86. 106 diving. 153 Chimney Springs. camping. 177. camping. 177. Pioneer territory. fishing. camping. 17. 70-71. 168. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 149-150. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. 119. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 163-164. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. safety rules. 15-16. Gold Center. skiing. horseback riding. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 147-148 Eberhardt. Dunn Hatchery. Shermantown. Las Vegas area. 192. hiking outfitters. 122-123. outfitters. 117.. touring. biking. Camp Winfield Scott. 138-139. Eberhardt. 119. 4-5 Gardnerville. 142. 109. 74 Death Valley National Park. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 185. 13-15. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. hiking. camping. 167. 109. Candelaria. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 65 gambling. Rhyolite. 18-19 climbing. 12. Midas. see events fish. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 109. events. Lovelock Indian Cave. 112. Lake Tahoe area. 120-121. touring. 194-195. Northumberland Cave. Samuel.5 Cathedral Gorge. 139140 Ely. 115 Gold Center. 37-41. 137. 4. 174-175. 15-16 Fremont. 120. 121-122. 144. fishing. 155-156. Cowboy country. hiking. sport-climbing ratings. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. 179. touring. 171-172 Gold Point. restaurants. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 126. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 161-162. 132-133. 152-155. 70. 35-36. Reno-Tahoe area. 75. 125. 143-144. 178. 188-189 Clemens. 137. 155. 150-151. auto racing. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 179. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 97. 190-193. 46 Comstock Lode. restaurants. mercury warnings. 44-48. 175 climate. 82. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 89. 109 Glacier Trail. 67. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 170. 79. 110. 179. 127. restaurants. restaurants. 179. 73. 176. 190 . 174. touring. 98. Pony Express territory. Pyramid Lake Fishway. 77. 100. Reno-Tahoe territory. 112 Genoa. 3. 22. camping. John C. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 184. Las Vegas territory. 131. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 80. special events. 12. outfitters. fishing. camping. Lehman Caves. 124. 102-104. 137. 157-158. 126-127. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. outfitters. 172 golf. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 112. 186 elk. Rochester Mining District. fishing. 187-190. 182. 83. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 121. springfish. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. pupfish. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. Jungo. 188-189 fishing. restaurants. 137. accommodations. 116. Metropolis. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. 116-117. 106. 170-171 Denio Junction. 43-44. 143. 170. 78 casinos. camping. Toquima Cave. transportation. touring. Pioneer territory. 125. Hamilton. 40.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. 139. 119-120. 171. Treasure City. Las Vegas area. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. accommodations. hiking. 176. 142 Great Basin. outfitters. 180 Earth Connections. accommodations. 134-135. 139 cruises. 75. 14 Colorado River. 160 Goshute Mountains. 169. 87 Dayton. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 125. 74. 200 Cowboy Country. 108 events: Cowboy country.
164. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 140-141 land. 1. 70 Humboldt National Forest. map. accommodations. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. watersports. 32 horseback riding. 29-31. outfitters. 79. 148-149 Humboldt River. 117 hotels. 28. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. events. 40-41. 4WD trail. camping. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 162. touring. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 102. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 120 Incline Village. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 176. 149-150. 41. hiking outfitters. 187 Manhattan. RenoTahoe territory. 52-53. 137 kayaking. 112-117. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 145-150. 57. 24. 106. balloning and soaring. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 150. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. horseback riding. 60. 21-22. 125. 49-50. camping.Index Great Basin National Park. hiking. description of. transportation. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 3536. 107. 116-117. Las Vegas. 39 history: Cowboy country. 46. 46. Pony Express territory. 101. outfitters. events. touring. 186-187. camping. 83. camping. touring and transportation. 65. 45. 48. 198. 57-58. hiking. 78-79 Jungo. hiking outfitters. Pioneer territory. 31-35. 188-189. 64. 192. Walley’s Hot Springs. special events. Reno-Tahoe territory. Las Vegas territory. 23-29. hiking. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. air tours. Reno. 88. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 181-187. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. touring. 151. 149. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 148-149 jeep tours. Las Vegas area. 93. 127. 54. boating outfitters. 55. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. restaurants. 111. 82. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. fishing. 90. fishing. Pony Express territory. 132 Lexington Arch. 86. 99-100. 32-33. restaurants. 83. transportation. 103 Hamilton. see air tours Hemenway Park. 83-84. restaurants. 37-41. 193. 195-196. 91 information sources. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. Reno-Tahoe territory. 118 Lone Mountain. biking. camping. 38. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 163. 90 helicopter tours. 119 Index . Pioneer territory. state. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 43. Las Vegas territory. 82. skiing. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. Cowboy country. 141-142. 159. 78. 75. 62. 63-66. touring. 166. biking. 20. 91-92. snow sports outfitters. 47. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 150. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 130. 46. 98. 177 mercury warnings. 48-49. 156. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 53-54. 13-15. Midas Hot Spring. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. restaurants. 200-201. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 66. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Nevada. 179 Kingston. 110-112. 146. restaurants. camping. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. touring. 37-40. 160. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. restaurants. 118. 41-43. water sports. 39. skiing. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 162. touring. 129-131. 158. 165-167. transportation. 47 lakes. outfitters. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Pioneer territory. 32-33 Lake Mohave. hiking. 40. camping. 64. camping. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. Kyle Hot Spring. 80-81 hiking. touring. 77. 153. 36. 50-52. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 44 Las Vegas territory. 152. Pony Express territory.
Desert Valley Museum. 189-190 Muir. Gold Well Open Air Museum. Colorado River Museum. Mineral County Museum. The Way It Was Museum. 3-4. 80-81 Native American festivals. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. Western Folklife Center. Fleischmann Planetarium. 25. Northeastern Nevada Museum. hiking. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 72. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 4. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. fishing. 109. Nevada State Library & Archives. 165 nuclear waste. Brewery Arts Center. 178. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 2. 153. 71. 29 Mount Jefferson. 8182 Mesquite. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 98. 8. 73. 4. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 107. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 26. 23. 25. 25. 86. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 35. see accommodations motorcycles. 43. 25-26. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. 25. 91. 134 petroglyphs. 183. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 2. 170. Clark County Heritage Museum. skiing and snowboarding. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 126. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. May Museum and Arboretum. The Castle. Marzen House Museum. 78. 70-71 mines and mining. 23 Overton: touring. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 106 nuclear testing. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 199. 10. Liberace Museum. Central Nevada Museum. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 177. 139. Roberts House Museum. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 174. 173. 72-73. fishing. 70. 107. 109-110. 142. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 26. restaurants. 197-198. 181 Moapa. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. Stewart Indian Museum. 199 Metropolis. Humbolt Museum. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 79. 193-194. see biking Mount Charleston. 61. 153 Northumberland Cave. Nevada Historical Society. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. Keck Minerals Museum. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 133. 175. 165. 73. 71. 127 pictographs. 135136. hiking. John. 142 Midas. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 180 Minden: events. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 103. 135. 69. Las Vegas Art Museum. 32. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. Lost City Museum. horseback riding. 29. camping. 73. 174. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. 167-168 Paiutes. 200 motels. 69. 175. 68. 171. Marshall Mint Museum. 173. National Automobile Museum. fishing. 174. Lyon County Muserum. 61. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 77. 75. Capitol Building and Museum. 69. 68. Wilbur D. 108. 61. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 61 music and theater. 26. camping. 61. Guinness World of Records Museum. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 83. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 177. 25. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 102. 26. 199-200. 68. see biking mountain biking. hiking outfitters. Nevada State Mu- . 11 Mosquito Creek. 200. 139. 171. outfitters. 34. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 69. 34. 173. restaurants. Mark Twain Museum.206 n Index seum. 31. 2. 34. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. touring. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 163. 43. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 34. touring. 188. 71. Nevada State Railroad Museum. White Pine Public Museum. 33. 69. 196197. 73. 177. 187 Mojave Desert. 158. Piper’s Opera House. touring. 73. 67. accommodations.
Las Vegas area. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. see events price codes. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 53-54. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 54. 142. 138 rock climbing. 76. 193. 106 Spooner Lake. 89. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 170 rivers. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 117. 49-50. 91. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 165-201 plant life. 176 rodeos. 82. biking.Index Pioche: accommodations. 193. 36. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. hiking. 169 Pyramid Lake. 93-94. fishing. accommodations. 163-164. restaurants. 163. touring. 96-97. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. Reno-Tahoe area. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. camping. 197 rafting. Pioneer territory. 88. 78. Benjamin “Bugsy. snow sports outfitters. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 146. 94 special events. water sports. 77. 52 pupfish. fishing. 198. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 65 Pony Express territory. 179. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 90 soaring. climbing and hiking. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 134. motorcycle. 185-186. 17. see skiing snowmobiling. 179 Searchlight. see climbing springfish. outfitters. 163. 114-115 theater. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 104. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 12. restaurants. 79. 17. skiing. 181. hiking. bike. 200 temperature chart. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 9-10. auto. camping. 197-199. 180 Pioneer territory. 115. 98. 167. Pony Express territory. biking. 89-91 skydiving. see events Round House Art Gallery.” 4 silver. 66. 79-80. 74 races. 84-85 swimming. 80 pronghorn antelope. camping. see mines and mining skiing. 88 Shermantown. fishing. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 76. 144. 187. 17. 54. 173 Index . 85. 156. 144. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 145-146 prostitution. skiing. fishing. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. camping. touring. see climbing rock hunting. 90 sport climbing. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. biking. 154. see also specific towns Rhyolite. touring. 160-163. 146-147. 84. 87. 59-61. 123-125. 76. 77-78. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. horse. 42. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. 98. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 106 Siegel. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. Las Vegas territory. fishing. 83-84. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 17. 186-187. 145 Stateline: accommodations. special events. RenoTahoe area. 9 Sand Mountain. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 143. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 109 Shoshone people. hiking. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 180. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 78. 143 Rachel. restaurants. camping. transportation. 113. 153 Sparks. 190. 13 Price Lakes. hiking and climbing. 26-27. 48-49 snowboarding. 9697. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 197. 92-93. 144. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. hiking. 150-151. touring. 112. 195. accommodations. 129-130.
147-148. touring. 159-160. 67. 162. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 30-31. 191-192. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. climbing and hiking. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. Las Vegas territory. Arc Dome Wilderness. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. 25 Topaz Lake. 142 Wendover: accommodations. camping. 79-80. events. 106 trains. 80-81. Amtrak. 152-155. touring. outfitters. 73. events. 86 Wells: accommodations. 179. 196. rental cars. hiking. 157. Oxbow Nature Study Area. outfitters. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 33. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 41. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 95. 112. Cleve Creek Campground. 139-140 Treasure City. Pony Express territory. 168-169. 188-189. camping. 80. 71-74 Virgin River. 144.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 176. 193 Walker Lake. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. 174. 199. 150. 111. hiking outfitters. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. Echo Canyon State Park. 31. 200-201. 177. water sports. touring. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 109 trees. 98. Pioneer territory. Wilson Canyon. 110. 143. Goshute Mountains. touring. hiking outfitters. Ruby Marsh. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 62. 89. 145-146. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. camping. 29-30. restaurants. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 193. camping. 139. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 127. 62. 61. 151 Wovoka. Earth Connections. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 146. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. hiking. 135-137. 34-35. special events. restaurants. 163. 119-120. Winnemucca. Jack’s Valley Road. horseback riding. touring. 172. 68. Ely Elk Viewing Area. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 155. 45. 71. 38. Ruby Mountains. 185. Walker Lake. 191 UFOs. 29. 127. 174 walking. 39 vineyards. see plant life tufas. outfitters. 85. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 163-164. 117 Toquima Cave. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 190-193. camping. 183-184. 160-161. 182-183. 156-157. camping. Pioneer territory. wildlife and bird watching. 167. 168 zoos. fishing. 44-48. 76. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. hiking. 117. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 176 Yerington: accommodations. Table Mountain Wilderness. 187. High Rock Canyon. 62. Mark. 55. fishing. 134 Twain. 102. 31. Hemenway Park. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 176 wineries. 26-27. Santa Rosa Mountains. 178. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. see transportation transportation: airports. 164. 192. 151 Wilson Canyon. 75. 83. 20. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 66. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. restaurants. 159. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. 97. 143. buses. Reno-Tahoe territory. events. 77-78. 155 . 149. 150. Lake Mead. 104. restaurants. 35. 155. touring. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. 144. 32. restaurants. 153-154.