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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
pausing on . which covers most of Nevada. About 27 million of them.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. In fact. Among the 50 states. that’s good news.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin. horses. Florida. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. however. as the top tourism destination in the US. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. bison.” and for good reason. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. These mammoths. giant sloths. you can have the whole wild. the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. half-pound hot dogs. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. For anyone who loves the outdoors. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. you’ll know better. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. According to author John Hart. In fact. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population.500 and 10. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska.
The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. The Northern Paiutes. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. Jedediah Smith. In the 12th century. Many prime archeological sites. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. including southern Nevada. followed in Garces’ footsteps. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. Exactly 50 years later. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. points. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. His party wintered in California. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. shells. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. the first European entered Nevada. wetlands and springs. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. hand tools. In 1776. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. In the south.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. fish hooks. By about 500 AD. . It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. however. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. established trade routes.
Indian fighter and presidential candidate. but abandoned it two years later. In 1845. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee).History n 3 In the north. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. then returned east along the route the next year. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. By 1857. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. In 1859. encountering Pyramid Lake. DC. the Mormons were the first white residents. In 1849. who would later become a war hero. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. was dispatched to map the area. In 1833. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. with Brigham Young as governor. camping at Las Vegas. Nevada became a state on Halloween. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. Introduction . swelling the population well into five figures. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. Eight years later the first wagon train. In 1830. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. the church established the State of Deseret. and. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. In 1843 and ’44. but the Utah Territory government. 1864. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. as it came to be called. and headed over the Sierras. John C. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. Fremont. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. The Comstock Lode. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. continued to oversee Nevada. dominated by the church. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. covering most of Utah and Nevada. which helped open the gateway to the West.
commerce and industry. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. upscale Vegas. Siegel’s vision. In 1855. was of a classy. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas. killed two-thirds of them. was struck in Virginia City. In 1873. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. Reno and the surrounding areas. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. Winnemucca. In the teens and ’20s. Ironically. chief of the Northern Paiutes. In 1860. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. violence escalated. Then in 1966. Carson City. the Flamingo soon reopened. then underground tests for 30 more. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. but was ambushed. Meanwhile. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. opened in 1950. the mother of all lodes. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. particularly in southern Nevada. Howard Hughes sud- . but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. bringing town sites. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. the first true hotel-casino. then picked up again in the early 1900s. the Big Bonanza. later known as the Nevada Test Site. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. however. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. In 1874. son of Winnemucca. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. Streets were laid out. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. began making money and the boom was on.000 people in 1960. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. Warriors under Numaga. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. signed a treaty with the federal government.
fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. Fallon and Mesquite. places like Elko. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. But the explosion has not been without fallout. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. and Americans have become moths to the flame. moving to the region in record numbers. This time. a land dominated by a mobile population. . a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. Winnemucca. today there are master-planned communities. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. The entire West will be watching what transpires. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. trappers. miners. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. How much is too much. Mom and their 2. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. By 1970. are reaping the windfall. To many. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. find enough water.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. DC. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. however.
much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. hills and uplands.839foot Matterhorn. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Wheeler Peak. and so on. then disappear into their respective “sinks.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. Yes. In the north. gurgle through the northern part of the state. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. dry. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. The notion of Nevada as a flat. with nine ranges topping 11. Depending on who’s counting. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. Fremont in 1844. the Carson and the Humboldt. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world.000 feet to nearly 12. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. Here. The Colorado River . towers over Great Basin National Park. down a range. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion.000 feet in the space of a few miles. lakes. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. Get the idea? After all. Nevada even has its own 10. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. across a sagebrush-covered basin. Near Las Vegas. Named by explorer John C. In fact.000 feet.063 feet. reservoirs and other watery bodies. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. The roof of Nevada is 13.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. On the other side of the state. down another range. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. 13. then up another range. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers.
only 65. establishing 77. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. the largest alpine lake in North America. For the greens. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. a great inland sea that 50. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. which empty into Lake Mead from the north. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty.500 square miles of western Nevada.000 years ago covered 8. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . it’s an uphill climb all the way. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. most notably Lake Tahoe. the southeastern corner of Nevada. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. natural sources of running water. are the only reliable.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state. In 1989. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness.000-acre Great Basin National Park. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise.000 acres. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. in the remote north near Jarbidge.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed. In the 1970s. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. Lower and drier.
Apart from aspens. with its tiny. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. greasewood. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless.000 and 8. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. Death Valley. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). The squat Utah juniper. is generally found throughout the state between 5. then whittled that down to less than two million acres. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. particularly the Sierra Nevadas. such as rabbitbrush.000 feet.000 feet above sea level. The recommendations have been under review for years. In the wetter western Nevada ranges.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions. horsebrush and shadescale. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. At elevations above 6. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. the soil supports . 14 national recreation areas. Still. finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine).
lodgepole pine.000 years. Washoe pine. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. prickly pear. along with alder. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. or jimson weed. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. western white pine. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. mountain hemlock and sugar pine. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. willow and dogwood. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth. Above the desert floor. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. hedgehog and barrel. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. ponderosa pine. the mountain lion. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. hallucinogenic sacred datura. The Joshua tree.000 feet.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. The king of Great Basin vegetation. the official state grass. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . Black bears. bristlecone pine. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. At the other extreme. is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. which make up just 1% of the land. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. up to 5. waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. blooms by night here. In the mountains. The rare. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. creosote bush has an oily. which is actually a type of yucca. however.
It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. with Lahontan cutthroat. seen on Nevada’s license plates. weasel. skunk. Trout are the favorite of anglers. In the air over the desert. The desert bighorn sheep. burrowing owl and canyon wren. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. Blacktail jackrabbits. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. kangaroo rats. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. golden and Dolly Varden . who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. redtailed hawk. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. Gambel’s quail. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. chuckwalla. Snakes include several types of rattlers. Ironically. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. fox. coyote. Other common flyers include the golden eagle. also live in the Mojave. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. brown. help comes from hunters. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. America’s two poisonous spiders. prairie falcon. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. rainbow. brook. while mule deer are abundant. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. the black widow and brown recluse. greater roadrunner. badger. Meanwhile. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. beaver. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. pika.
Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. on snow and in the air. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. such as visitors bureaus. culture and most attractive features. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. A section on Touring follows. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. like almost every other Nevada visitor. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. broken down by specific locales. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . covering its history. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. Reno-Tahoe Territory. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique.How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. on land. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. This section also includes sources for expert information. Cowboy Country. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. Along with detailed information on where to go. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. on water.
. . so use these symbols only as a general reference. . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . . . . . . . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. . . . Up to $50 per day $$ . . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. . . . . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. forethought and patience. . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . . . . . $50 to $100 $$$ . . Backpacking. . Trails may be gone. Accommodations Price Scale $ . . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. Finally. Hiking. . . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing. .12 n Introduction ing chart. . The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . . . . With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. . . It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. . .
so help is usually a long way away. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 .Climbing.0 to .Easy hiking.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 . Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. As this guide goes to press.14 (and sometimes beyond).6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move. . using the hands. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 .0 to . known as the Yosemite Decimal System. although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one. The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible.Adventures n 13 Finally. there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada. occasionally using hands Class 4 . The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. For Class 5 routes. ranging from . Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. the lower numbers (. the most popular among serious rock climbers. Class 2 .Boulder hopping.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb.
climbing partners. Always take fresh water with you. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. n n n n n . then amended by subsequent climbers. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it.10. Pack spare everything – food. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. until all holds disappear at . Begin hiking early in the day. By their nature. As with all outdoor activities. Beyond that. Don’t travel alone. not hard-and-fast rules. legend. In the arid country of Nevada. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. clothing. taking into account personal experience. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. Assistance can take hours or days. Storms are more common in the afternoon. check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. If the plan changes. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. use common sense before you get into trouble. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia. climbers enter the realm of myth. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. Give them descriptions of yourself.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. dehydration and lightning. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. Be aware of conditions.
spare belts. but a powerful. jack. Arizona. Carry an inflated spare tire or two. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. extra gas. . Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. high-clearance job. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. Not one of those trendy. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. water and fluids. preferably one with a large gas tank. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. tools. four-wheel-drive vehicle.
A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. n If you find a traveled road. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground. minimize talking and eating. Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. The rest of Nevada. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. however. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. Do not ration water. of course. stay on it. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. left out of popular literature. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. n If you have water. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. For more information on desert survival. contact DARES. in wilderness areas). which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. drink it as needed. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. tips and maps to the latest hot single track. when you left and where you are headed. n If water is in limited supply. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. . leave a note telling searchers who you are. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. Mountain biking in Nevada. stay put. 85096. Phoenix. PO Box 39340. AZ. is more popular than ever.
Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. there are tourists. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. At these higher elevations. Meanwhile. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. Fishing. lakes and reservoirs. Soaring Where there is Vegas. Many streams. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. Skydiving. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Ballooning. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. and gigantic Lake Mead. but take extra care. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. there are all types of sky-high adventures. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. the gem of the Sierras. And where there are tourists. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. Check with local land managers for trail conditions.
throwing rain. For those who like to watch. Leave the high altitudes as well. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. on the Colorado River. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. Flashfloods are the predictable result. but despite the obvious danger. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. Summer and early fall can be blistering. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. In the Great Basin. If thunderstorms threaten. These storms are known to appear with little warning. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. temperatures above 110° are common. . although they can occur at any time of year. Laughlin. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. get out of lowlying areas.
Carson City. Carson City.travelnevada. NV 89502.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. In southern Nevada. % 702234-7331. 84401. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. 850 Harvard Way. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. % 800-NEVADA-8. see the listings that accompany each chapter. US Forest Service. % 702-688-1500.com. . In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. % 702-687-4219. Reno. Carson City. Intermountain Region. basin winters can be chilly. In the mountains. For information on specific locales. Nevada Division of Wildlife. www. Bureau of Land Management. Nevada Department of Transportation. 1100 Valley Road. Nevada Commission on Tourism. UT. 1263 South Stewart Street. 324 25th Street. Great Basin National Park. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. % 801-625-5182. Capitol Complex. too. Ogden. windy. NV 89311. In the north. The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. rainy and occasionally snowy. 1300 South Curry Street. Baker. % 702-785-6500. NV 89710. NV 89703. NV 89520. % 702-687-4384. Reno. NV 89712. Nevada Division of State Parks.
or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. try hiking to an 11. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. cheap food. both prehistoric and otherwise.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. . Inside the city limits. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. closer. It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts.000-year-old petroglyphs. lounge shows – and recently.000-foot peak. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. in plain view of the casinos. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
% 702-798-5595. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . actual cosmopolitan. Southeast of the Strip. The Barrick Museum of Natural History. $3. The tax-deductible admission is $6. 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. Seasonal streams.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin. $4. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas.95 for adults. Just off the glittering Strip. 10 AM to 5 PM. call % 702-895-3801. 8 AM to 5 PM. Showmanship. Admission is $4. but no less extravagant. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. is the Liberace Museum. % 702-895-3381. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. % 702-895-3011. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. faculty and invited artists. 9 AM to 9 PM. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM. Yes.95 for seniors and students. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). Ham Concert Hall.50 for seniors. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. giant. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest. % 702-895-3893. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. 1 PM to 5 PM. Sunday.95 for adults. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. features work by students. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. % 702-363-1921. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts. Dedicated to Mr. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities.
complete with mock gunfights and hangings. The park is open daily. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. Charleston. the road to Mt. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. (See below. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. Back on US 95. wife of a German munitions tycoon. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. With structures dating back to 1864. saloon. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. 5 PM in the winter. one-way loop drive is early morning.) The best time to take the 13-mile. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. The admission is $5 per vehicle. Admission is $4. petting zoo. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). % 702-875-4141. 8 AM to 11 PM. later during summer months. 8 AM to sunset. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. 8 AM to 5 PM. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. trail rides and a “real” Western town. under Adventures on Foot. % 702-875-4191. % 702-486-5413. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. The restaurant and bar are open daily. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. The park is open daily. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. The park is open daily. and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. Today there is a restaurant. have been unearthed here. 7 AM to dusk. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM.
the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. under Adventures and Camping. under On Foot. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning.) . Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. under On Wheels. % 702385-2SKI. The 1. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. % 702-872-5500. (See below. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. desolate valley. Bighorn sheep. % 702-646-3401. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. and its 1. elevation 11. In the winter. see below under On Snow. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby.) Pitch a tent. At the northern edge of the reservation.) After the hike.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. the Mt. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. Charleston Loop.918 feet. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt.000 vertical feet of runs. % 702-872-7098. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night. Charleston Lodge. Charleston Hotel. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. completing the Mt. under Camping. (See below. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. 17-mile. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. may be spotted near water sources during the summer. (See below. but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. % 702-872-5408.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. (See below. to pick up the excellent hiking maps. Nevada’s state animal.
The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . Airlines Air 21. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air.
% 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-GO-VALUE . AA Auto Rentals. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-654-7037 National.
On the north side of Boulder City. $1 for seniors and children under 16. % 702-455-7955. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. Admission is $1. 1830 South Boulder Highway. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. 444 Hotel Plaza. 711 East Desert Inn Road. Call % 800USA-RAIL. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. % 702-735-1616. Did it work? Judge for yourself. NV 89109. The museum is open daily. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. . 3150 Paradise Road.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city. Gray Line Tours.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. % 800-332-5333. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. % 702-294-1888. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines. NV 89109. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. stopping downtown.50 for adults.Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4.
500 South Boulder Highway. Hoover also created Lake Mead. Children under 10 are free. Phoenix and Los Angeles. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. The cost is $5 for adults.) Be sure to heed the . taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. for information on camping. All of 726 feet high. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. % 702-293-8907. boating and diving. % 702-565-8591. 89105. % 702-293-2034.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. 100 Nevada Highway. (See On Water below. swimming.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. or the Boulder City Visitors Center. fishing. $2. 89005. head back toward Boulder City. Hoover Dam took 5. Holding about 9 trillion gallons. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. and 45 feet thick at the top. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. Las Vegans. 660 thick at the base. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam.
the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. which rests on the Virgin River. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. % 702-293-6180. thank you. Beyond here. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. % 702-397-2088. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. nearly five miles off the highway. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. Just beyond the bay. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort. The displays in the visitor center. Go straight to reach Henderson. go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. explain the geology and forces of erosion.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. From the visitor center. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. Back on Nevada 167. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. . a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. a public swimming and boating area. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds.
relives those days.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum. bar and bait shop. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. % 702-297-1464. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. (For details on all three. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. South of here is camping. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. Nevada’s record-high temperature. Saturday.000 visitors a month. The museum is open Monday through Friday. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. Named for a brand of matches. and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. with motel. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. 9 AM to 5 PM. East of Searchlight 14 miles. % 520-754-3272. % 800-46-4584 . constructed his Riverside Casino. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. 125°. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. in Bullhead City. 9 AM to 1 PM. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. Admission is a $1 donation.and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. 355 Highway 95. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. campground and fishing and swimming spots. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. see below. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. % 702-297-1682. a campground and marina. Arizona. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. % 520-754-3399. the town was a gold. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines. under Adventures. % 520-754-3628. % 520-754-4606.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. on Lake Mojave.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff.
% 800-227-5254. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 702-798-6405. host- . % 800-227-5245. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. In Laughlin. Special Events February In February. May is the busiest month. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. % 310-448-1822. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. 1555 South Casino Drive. which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. % 800-736-6247 United Express.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. % 702-876-3380. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. as many as 6.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March.
the Las Vegas Classic. to the waters of Lake Mead. % 800-227-5245. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. % 800-637-1006. August In August. a confluence of Southern Paiute. Navaho and Mojave peoples. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. to downtown. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. and the National Finals Rodeo. a three-day balloon rally. % 702-457-2797. Later in the month. % 702-898-6565. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. blows in. % 702-293-4857. % 702-293-2034. % 702-870-1221. % 702-2939256. % 702-293-1611. % 702434-0848. % 702-4541212. to the campus of UNLV. % 702-457-5775. % 702-631-7000. takes place in Vegas. . September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. floats into Laughlin. % 702687-5777. October Art in the Park. % 702-386-3926. % 702-452-8066. Another balloon festival. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. the International Black Heritage Festival. take place in Boulder City. % 702-8953900. also takes place in October. to town. the Parade of Lights. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno.
is to mountain bikers. Red Rock attracts free climbers.11+).11). The area gets only four inches of rain a year. while nearby Cloud Tower (5. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer.9). At the end of a 90-minute approach. At nearby Willow Springs. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. so chalk often stays put for months. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. especially in winter months. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5. in fact.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5.11).12a). sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. Chicken Eruptus (5.7) crag and mixed climbing walls. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. To the west. Utah. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop. Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab. Graveyard Waltz (5. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5.11b). Crimson Chrysalis (5. Stratocaster (5. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. The Choad Warrior (5. Sheep Trail (5. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. Other routes in- .Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. so take extra precautions when adventuring here.8).9) has 1. With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes.11d) offers more advanced routes.11). teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year.
which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. to savor the 300-mile views. Rainbow Buttress (5. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. . About seven miles from the visitor center. The trail switchbacks time and again. At the aforementioned fork. published by the American Alpine Club. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon.10 or 5.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek.6). 17 miles round-trip. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. elevation 11. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs.918 feet. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow.12). Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. & For more information. gaining 3. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. Chockstone Press. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley.8) and Eagle Dance (5. consult the Bible of local climbers. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement. The South Loop Trail. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. toward a ridge at 11. See Outfitters. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. ending at a small dam and the spring. Following the fork. The 3. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. page 41.000 feet.000 feet in four miles. all that remains of his 1920s homestead.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment. an easy six-mile round-trip. the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins.000 feet.
thunderstorms and snow. . Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls.000 feet into the northeastern sky. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. the trail climbs 1. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center.000 feet to a saddle. At lower elevations. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. contact the US Forest Service. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. Mountain T Ranch. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes.000 feet above the desert. covering two miles and gaining 1. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. To the northwest. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge.4 miles. For trail information and weather and safety updates. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. gaining 1. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. Never take these altitudes lightly. Beginning on a dirt road. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers.
3557 South Valley View Boulevard. % 702-434-3388.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. ascending northwest. then go northwest to another plateau. 89180. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. HCR 33. % 702-254-5604. go 6.2 miles. % 702-596-2953. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. then up a gully to a point just below the summit. which is marked by a post. Suite 4. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. % 888-86ROCKY. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. Las Vegas. turn right. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. heading for the northernmost outcropping. PO Box 80875. 89137. % 702-364-8687. PO Box 371324. and park at the end of the road. outlines the easiest route. Las Vegas 89117. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. . From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. Rocky Trails. 89124. Falcon Press Publishing. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. Las Vegas. Just south of this outcrop. PO Box 1. climb a gully to reach a ridge. Sports & Adventure Tours. % 702-223-2176. Stay below the northern peaks. Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. Climb northward up the slope. Bruce Grubbs.
Desert Outfitting. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens. Wagons West. Hahn’s World of Surplus.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. % 702362-7177. 89132. % 702-383-0838. % 702-252-7114. % 702-254-1143. % 702387-2457. can arrange a covered wagon trip. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. % 702-649-6819. 4065 East Patrick Lane. Las Vegas. however. Peak Sports. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. PO Box 19210. Desert Rock Sports. Silver State Old West Tours. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. At mile post 17.6 mile to a dirt road. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702-2567433. % 702-458-8870. Cowboy Trail Rides. % 702-798-6565. % 702-875-1978. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. Armed . Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. 617 Hoover Avenue.
turn left to another intersection and turn right. and pump uphill. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. After beginning another climb.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). Go left here. heading uphill. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. A double track soon appears on the right. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. For a tamer road trip. contact the Bureau of Land Management. go to the next intersection. Take this until you reach a double track. zoom downhill to the fork. scanning for a cairn on the left. Turn right. make a quick right and head downhill. a six-mile loop. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. Las Vegas. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. 4765 Vegas Drive. PO Box 26589. turn right. % 702-647-5000. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. flying downhill and then up to another road. turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. . NV 89126. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. Head downhill. Follow this to the top of Red Valley. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. before heading out. Turn right. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. For a more challenging excursion. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. At the road. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn.
% 702-596-2953. Escape the City Streets. the byway forks.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. . % 702-646-3401. % 702-252-8077. At about the 10-mile mark. % 702-642-2453. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. % 702-451-9586. Las Vegas Bikes USA. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. Turn left to return to US 15. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-876-8687. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. R&R Cycling. 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. Ski Chalet. 7934 Cadenza Lane. % 702-8978287. Downhill Bicycle Tours. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. 16 Cottonwood Drive. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area.
contact the Las Vegas BLM office. % 702-380-6969. % 702-646-8800. 713 East Ogden Street. Rebel Adventure Tours.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. Las Vegas. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. % 702-454-5555. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. It begins. of all places. is on the premises. Old West Territory Tours. 89101. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. 8 AM to 11 AM. For details. maps and more information on backcountry byways. Suite B. 3700 Flamingo Road. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. crystal-clear hotel pool. The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters. . % 888-REELRIO. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. 2810 South Highland Drive. % 702-796-9355. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. 4765 West Vegas Drive. an avid angler for more than 50 years. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day.
For details. (See below. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. % 800-2555561. powerboats and cruisers. instruction and gear. Off Nevada 167. meals and overnight lodging for $449. water skiing.500-acre ranch in Utah.to three-days notice is required.) Swimming. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. rents houseboats. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). flows into Lake Mead. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. about three miles across at its widest point. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. and two. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. largemouth bass and trout. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. offering professional advice. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. . Thomas. Boulder Beach. under Boating Outfitters. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. % 800-34-SCUBA. Forever Resorts. jet skiing. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. The expert staff is available seven days a week. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave.
322 Lake Shore Road. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. Lake Mojave Farther south. Lake Mead Cruises. Calville Bay Resort. Las Vegas. offers trips from January through November. % 702-565-8958. 89006. PO Box 62465. % 702-754-3245. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. PO Box 100. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. is the local fishing and boating hub. % 800-696-RAFT. 89102. HCR 30. . 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. % 702-2931190. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. Near Laughlin.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. % 702-252-7114. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. The cost is about $65 per person. Return transportation is provided by bus. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. PO Box 61235. 89006. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. % 702-293-6180. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. 89124. Las Vegas. particularly near cliffs.
89040. % 702-3944000. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. % 800-228-9825. % 702565-0696. 520-758-6242. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. % 702-5659111. PO Box 29279. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. % 702-452-8299. Sunset Bait & Tackle. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 4290 Boulder Highway. Laughlin River Tours. 89029. Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. 89028. % 702-388-1022. . Tom’s Water Skiing. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. % 702-459-2080. Overton Beach Marina. Bullhead City.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. Fiesta Queen Cruises. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. AZ. 1450 Newberry Drive. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. % 702-433-3263. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. Laughlin. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. Clearwater Flyfishing. 89040. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. Overton. % 702297-1464. % 702-437-9283. Overton. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. PO Box 29279. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. % 702-564-5660.
A jump is $59. Karen Jones. Saturday until midnight. % 702-871-1399. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. ext. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. HB Fishing Guide Service. however. 3800. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. Jim Goff. 68 Mallory Road. 161 East Rancho Drive. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. % 702-434-0848. 810 Circus Circus Drive. % 702-5657583. Arizona and Zion. % 702-451-4004. % 702-564-1558. The company claims more than 500. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. % 702-565-8396. noon to 9 PM. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. citing growing noise problems. Utah. 1500 Palomino Drive. complete with guided ground tours and meals. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. . held every October at Silver Bowl Park. Henderson Bill Spellman. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service. Hackett Bungy. Even more memorable. % 702-385-4321.J. With commercial balloon tours. The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region.
Eagle Canyon Airlines. Web site www.com. Scenic Airlines. #115-200. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. % 800-255-7474. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. % 702-221-9199. % 800-359-8727. Las Vegas. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. D&R Balloons. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. 2705 Airport Drive. Sundance Helicopters. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. 89109. 806 Buchanan Street. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. King Airelines. Las Vegas Airlines. % 800-535-4448. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. % 800-634-6377. % 800-8-SKYDIV. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. 89005. % 702-877-1010. 241 East Reno Avenue. % 800-634-6851. % 702-293-1860. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. % 800-446-4584. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. Las Vegas. PO Box 19629. Jean. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. Air Vegas Airlines. % 702-385-2SKI. NV 89117. % 800-216-8330. 806 Buchanan Street.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. Skydive Las Vegas. 200 Convention Center Drive.ultimateballoonadven. NV 89019. % 702-736-0013. 3275 Rosanna Street. Heli USA.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . Set at a base elevation of 8. Jean Airport. Boulder City.
when rates are lower and lines are shorter. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods.000 techies to Sin City. $-$$. Above all. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. All they do is take up space. The place was once part-owned by in- . opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. After all. it seems. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s.000-room MGM Grand. 2395 North Rancho Road. are booked solid on weekends. % 800-272-7426. $-$$$. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. if possible. % 702-646-0008. over 100. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. 18 East Fremont Street. For more serious snow. % 702-385-1664.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals.000 visitors. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. But somehow. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. 600 East Fremont Street. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. HO TE L Many hotels. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. luring 200. % 702-385-5200. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. even behemoths like the 5. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday.
where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. Caesars Palace. across from the Fashion Show Mall. $$$$$. 202 East Fremont Street. 129 East Fremont Street. Down the street. $$-$$$$. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. New York. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. way out there. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. dominate the Strip. Across the street is the green giant. who built the first casino resort. The movie Rainman was shot here. $$-$$$$. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. and New York. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. $$-$$$$. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. New York. % 702-3821600. % 702-386-2110. Monte Carlo. % 702-894-7111. South of here. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. $$-$$$$. % 702-385-4011. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. the Flamingo.037 rooms. was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. $-$$. % 702-385-7111. $$-$$$. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. If staring at wealth is your thing. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the MGM Grand. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. The Golden Nugget. The Four Queens. 1 Main Street. % 702-732-5111. $$$-$$$$. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. New York is out there. Even by Vegas standards. % 702-791-7171. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South. the young upstarts. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. % 702-740-NYNY. The faux volcano. is a crowd-pleaser. % 702-740-NYNY.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. however. Next door is the Island’s big sister. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. 3000 Paradise Road. 128 East Fremont Street. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . $$-$$$$. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. The Mirage. $-$$. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-731-7110. has 1.
positively sedate with its 5. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. At this book goes to press.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. $$-$$$$. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. % 702-875-4400.500 rooms.000. % 702-262-4555. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas.800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. Bonnie Springs Motel.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. $$-$$$$. % 702-735-1616.000 visitors a month and climbing. but don’t count on that for long. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. contrary to popular belief. $-$$$. $-$$. % 702-872-5500. the Mt. On the outskirts of Vegas.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake. Charleston Hotel. while Bellagio will boast 3. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. has 2. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500. three Motel 6s. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Charleston Resort. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. % 800-634-3988. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. In the Spring Mountains. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. set at 7. On the less expensive end of the spectrum. too. % 702-872-5408. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. which eliminates Reno.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts. feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. TIP Laughlin For the most part. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels. .
% 702-3807711. 2300 South Casino Drive. Eurasian mélange. % 702-385-5016. At the Flamingo Hilton. Andre’s. $-$$$. % 702-298-2214. % 702-732-5111. contact the Chamber of Commerce. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. 1900 South Casino Drive. and Harrah’s. % 702-298-2453. Café Michelle. To really dine UPtown. The Edgewater. serves upscale Italian fare. $$$$. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. % 702735-8686. % 702-298-4200. while the Colorado Belle. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. Andiamo. % 702-252-7777.500 rooms. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. % 702-298-4600. Hamada. offers 2. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. The Ramada Express. 401 South 6th Street. while the Golden Nugget. % 702-385-4011. in the Las Vegas Hilton. % 702-298-4000. both at the MGM Grand. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. $-$$. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. % 702-298-7111. 202 Fremont Street. Off the main drags. % 702-891-7337. has 1. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences.000 rooms. Downtown at the Four Queens. On the Strip. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. and Gatsby’s. Emeril’s. $-$$$. 3700 West Flamingo Road. % 702-891-7374. classy Hugo’s Cellar. however. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. 1350 East Flamingo Road. 2000 South Casino Drive. $-$$. 2100 South Casino Drive. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. After a few meals at most of these troughs. 2900 South Casino Drive. 2121 South Casino Drive. the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-733-3111. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. % 702-298-2535. % 702-298-5111. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. 1650 Casino Drive. Nearby. $-$$. and very expensive. $-$$$. sports a railroad theme. An excellent buffet. opened in 1990.
The elevation here ranges between 7.400 feet. 3900 Paradise Road. 4455 Paradise Road. Chicken is the house specialty. 308 West Sahara Avenue. serves fine steaks and seafood. % 702-382-1644. For information. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. Chin’s. % 702-298-2242. For a Latin taste. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. Near the end of Nevada 157. For satisfying American favorites. seven days a week. % 702-384-4470. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. % 702-693-5000. Phillip’s Supper House. 2504 East Fremont. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. which. All five campgrounds have piped water. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel. while moderately pricey. although the Lodge. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. % 702-363-1921. % 702-383-0007. Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. Kyle Canyon. call % 702-873-8800. in the shadow of Mt. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites. % 702-873-5222. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. serves hip. Suite Z. as the name implies. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. Fong’s. is the oldest restaurant in the city. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. 2021 East Charleston Boulevard. . is the most popular Chinese place in town. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. Charleston. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South.000 and 8. having opened in 1932. % 702-794-0700. % 702733-8899. The Green Shack. % 702-2984600. so be prepared for extreme weather.
Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. call % 702-646-3401. Across the river from the Strip. north of town on Lake Mojave. % 702-397-2088.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. % 520-754-3272. there’s Boulder Beach. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. On the north shore. % 520-7544606. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. Las Vegas Territory . The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. On the Virgin River to the north. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. Calville Bay has 80 sites. For information on all five locations. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. For information. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. In Valley of Fire State Park. To the east of Vegas. Moving north from Boulder City. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park.
Heavenly and Mt. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. the largest alpine lake in North America.000 feet. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. At the heart of this region. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. The Truckee River. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. Reno. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. Rose resorts. In the winter. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters.” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote. and for good reason. the city of Reno is the . the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. just east of the California-Nevada border. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. Las Vegas. Of course. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. With a surface elevation of more than 7.
600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. are walks back in time. meanwhile.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. The place dates back to 1851. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. which meanders – sometimes wet. on the shores of Washoe Lake. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. Farther south. Fort Churchill. About 30 miles north of Reno. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. Just south of Carson City. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. 8. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. The Carson River. Farther east of Carson City. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Washoe Lake State Park. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here. can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. Today this mirage-come-true. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. where everyone expects Ben. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. Pyramid Lake. . which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. an ancient. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. North of Pyramid Lake.
the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges.Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. In 1863. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir. From Reno. Like Vegas. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. and in 1859 C. From here. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. North Virginia Street. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail.W. No. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. the latter beginning in Wadsworth. H. In 1852. there isn’t a glass pyramid. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. or at least slow. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. which hosts special events in warmer months. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory . faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. From Carson City. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. the city continues to grow rapidly. % 800-FOR-RENO. for a schedule.H.
Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931. this is it. From a historical point of view. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. .60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion.
% 702784-4812. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. Animal Ark Nature Center.) The Wilbur D. % 702-784-4528. On the north side of the city. % 702-334-2600. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. 300 North Center Street. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. The staff welcomes visitors daily. Reno-Tahoe Territory . (See below under On Foot. the National Automobile Museum. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. turn right. 1502 North Washington Street. is a well-known. Fleischmann Planetarium. 1265 Deerlodge Road. % 702-688-1190. % 702-969-3111. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. About 10 minutes north of the university. the campus of the University of Nevada. To get there. On the northern outskirts of the city. And the Keck Minerals Museum. The Nevada Historical Society. houses one of the world’s best collections. When arms get tired. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. % 702-333-9300. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. On the suburban south side of Reno. Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. including black bears and kit foxes. Great Basin Adventure. % 702-7855961. May Museum and Arboretum. % 702-788-3773. a nifty historical theme park. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. has been at that location since 1946. 1650 North Virginia Street. houses a theater and telescope. April through October. 10 South Lake Street. but call first for hours. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. boasts three treasures. is also located here. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife.
% 800-235-9292. % 800-359-2472. % 800-527-0700. Avis. % 800-736-6247. % 800-453-9417. Greyhound Lines. Airlines Air 21. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. America West Airlines. % 800-231-2222. % 800-331-1212. United Airlines. Lloyd’s International.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. % 800-CAR-RENT. % 800-654-3131. Canadian Airlines. % 702-328-6400. % 800-325-8007. Thrifty. % 800-225-2525. Northwest Airlines. National. Alaska Airlines. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. % 800-800-4000. Southwest Airlines. If you don’t have a car. % 800-218-8777. Dollar. % 800-435-9792. % 800-654-7037. Budget. % 800-367-2277. Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-221-2000. TriStar Airlines. % 800-426-7000. % 800-221-1212. K-T Services. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. TWA. % 702-882-3375. Reno Air. % 800-4-SHUTTL. . Enterprise. No Stress Express. % 800-241-6522. Delta Air Lines. Hertz.
motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. In 1861. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. respectively. the waters are now finding friends in high places. control erosion and acquire open land. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. but the future of the Basin itself. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. is a study in contrast. 405 Marsh Avenue. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. in his journal Roughing It. 4590 South Virginia Street. trees and sky. Reno. Reno. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. a marvelous intermingling of water. local. At press time. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. year-round outdoor playgrounds. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. All told. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. provides an interesting mix of adventures. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. % 800-FOR-RENO. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . NV 89502. % 702-329-2936.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. Fortunately. % 702-686-3030.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. NV 89505. the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. In reality. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. restore forest and watersheds. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. rock. 98 Colony Road.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
Reno-Tahoe Territory . is well-known to snorkelers. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. under On Foot. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park.50 for adults. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. % 702-849-2511. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. Three miles south of Incline Village.) Up the twisting NV 431. with its full slate of running water. open May through November. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead.776 feet. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. % 702-831-0691. (See below. $5. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. at 10. Admission is $8. called Diver’s Cove. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. After the buzz of the ranch. The north end of the beach. stands out amid the pines. The park. The beaches are open daily. Viewed from the highway. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. But in between them. % 702-831-0494. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park.50 for kids. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. is a welcome respite. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. along the eastern shoreline. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. restrooms and picnic areas.
(See below. (See below. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. PO Box 7139. For information. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. The next stop is Zephyr Cove.250 feet in five minutes. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. $6 per child. CA. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. % 916-583-9048. % 702588-3000. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. under Adventures and Accommodations. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . under On Snow. % 702588-3508. horseback riding. then into the broad Washoe Valley. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. NV 89449. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8. Woodwind Sailing Cruises.50 per adult. a nature trail circles the lake. Every summer. also offers excursions. 96151. The day-use fee is $5. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. PO Box 16299. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. condos. South Lake Tahoe. Booming in the winter (see below. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. This is the home port of the Dixie II. restaurants. Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. At Tahoe Village. canoeing. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. offices and shops. Sailing. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. Stateline. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. under On Snow).66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here.) For the unmechanized. The price for such sloth is $10. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. % 702-588-4591. % 800-AT-TAHOE. May through November.
preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. 87 and 98). When the Comstock Lode. % 702-687-4319. eventually lost their silver fortune. the world’s largest silver strike. pages 83. About 30 miles south of Reno. US 395 slides southwest. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. During the wet season. a hunt that lasted 20 years. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. off NV 429. Washoe Lake covers about 3. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . while the blue and the gray fought in the East. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. The original owners. Washoe Lake. About 15 miles south of Reno. 1851. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Camping. site of Washoe Lake State Park. the mansion and all its furnishings. the boom rolled in at full throttle. boating. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. The park’s centerpiece. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. camping and hiking (see below. under Adventures. Bowers Mansion. (See below. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras.000 acres. In November. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. Bowers Mansion County Park. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. and on weekends between May and October. a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. When restoration began on the house 70 years later.” On Halloween in 1864. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. one mile south of Washoe City. % 702-849-0201. was hit a year later in Virginia City. windsurfing.
Headquartered in nearby Minden.” In fact. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. % 702-884-3450. the wagons make regular stops along the trail. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. The Capitol Building & Museum. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. excepting state holidays. % 702-687-4810. in fact. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. 100 Stewart Street. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. Unlike most Western capitals. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. Admission is $3. Just east of the Capitol. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. which was opened in 1886. % 702-687-5160. exhibits of native fauna. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. Located in the Carson City Mint building. Call for schedules and pick-up points. the Nevada State Library & Archives. yearround. 101 North Carson Street. It’s so open. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. .68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. Open Monday through Friday. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. 600 North Carson Street. The library contains the original state constitution. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. the Capitol is open daily. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. % 702687-5030. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail.
Admission is $2. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. train rides are extra. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. % 702-687-6953. 502 North Division Street. 1207 North Carson Street. % 702-884-2226. 5366 Snyder Avenue. % 702-826-2766. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum.50. 448 West King Street. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. 302 South Carson Street. % 702-887-2174. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. $2 for kids. 1536 South Carson Street. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. The Stewart Indian Museum. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. Bliss Mansion. Charles-Muller Hotel. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. The St. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. The building now houses a live theater. The Orion Clemens House. became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. That classic journal. The museum is filled with period furniture. The office is closed Sundays. Two blocks north. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879. Samuel. books and permits for the surrounding area. The staff can provide trail maps. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. and Bender House (1874). 813 North Carson Street. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. Roughing It. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. the Carson City Brewing Company. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. On the suburban south side of Carson City. The Roberts House Museum. % 702-882-1808. % 702-883-1976. 2180 South Carson Street. was named for its original occupant. Admission is $4 for adults. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . Admission is $2.
Up the street. Before the school closed in 1980. As of presstime. weight room and tennis courts year-round. at the foot of the Carson Range. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. Walley’s. to Genoa. Carson City. lies Genoa. % 702-687-7410. % 702-782-4325. May through October. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. % 702-782-8155. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. 1900 South Carson Street. opened in 1863. The roots go back to 1851. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. 3. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. NV 89701. Guests can enjoy the water. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. saunas. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. May through October. now long gone. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. first opened to tourists in 1862. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. where he is buried. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue. 2001 Foothill Road. . The museum is open daily. Daily admission is $12. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. The place saw Nevada’s first house. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. Genoa Bar.000 students had walked its halls. California. the first permanent white settlement in the state.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. Across the street.
Their riches. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. Housed in the 1915 high school building. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. and their spirit built the Silver State. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. % 702-266-3343. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. which climbs up a narrow. 1477 Highway 395. the highway hits Topaz Lake. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. of all places. where it intersects with NV 341. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. valleys. Gardnerville in 1879. % 702-782-2555. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country. % 702-782-3133. their sweat. resting precariously . US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. boxing memorabilia. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. Finally. 1440 Highway 395. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. Beyond NV 341. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. Virginia City. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. The otherwise barren hills. Just down US 395. circus items. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital.200acre beauty set at 5. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. Leaving Carson City. about eight miles south of Carson City. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. including Western art and portraiture. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. About three miles south of Gardnerville. Minden was founded in 1904. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. a 1. In Gardnerville.
Not recommended for claustrophobes.000 a ton in silver. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. May through October. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. Here. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. Another huge vein was hit in 1873.000 lived in Virginia City. Today. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. % 702-847-0757. is a looming. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. The Comstock Lode had been struck. . the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. leave regularly. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. Admission prices range from donations to $3. Admission is $3. % 702847-0975. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. Up C Street. The building is open daily. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. The Marshall Mint Museum. and within four years.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. more than 15. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. underground mine tours. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. % 702-847-0777. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. At the south end of town.
is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. % 702-847-9394. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock. Mark Twain’s Memories. Admission is $2. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements.50. Its extravagant interior. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. June through October. Open daily. % 702847-0275. The memory of Samuel Clemens. % 702-8470333.Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. including an old jukebox and player pianos. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. The headstones and gravesites. Reno-Tahoe Territory .000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. lives on in two buildings. % 702-847-0454. The Mark Twain Museum. windswept plateau. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. Finally. 3. complete with ornate chandeliers. opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. After she was murdered in 1867. % 702-847-0525. a room in the basement of a saloon. The Way It Was Museum. for a ride into yesterday. % 702-8470830. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. is open daily. % 702-847-0766. has a more eclectic collection. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. Admission is $2. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. is definitely not for the puritan. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street.
wild horses. Fort Churchill State Historic Park. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. Past the intersection with NV 431.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. After another 20 miles. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption. The Byway’s terminus. or mustangs. Today.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. % 702-673-1150. There is also a developed campground. little more than a few walls remain. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. then exit at NV 445. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. number about 30. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. appears in Palomino Valley. From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. After about eight miles. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . Several historic buildings survive in downtown. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. including Odeon Hall. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. % 702-577-2345. Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. % 702-847-0311. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone.
Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. according to artifacts found in local caves. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. site of the ranger station. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. continues to surround the lake. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. since at least 9. formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . thus christening the 27-mile-long. Tribe members administer recreation activities. campground. A reservation was formalized in 1874. Another 25 miles north via paved. Today. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. this is the place to do it – unless. Spreading north and east. They will provide directions and hours of operation. % 702-476-1156. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert.182 feet) to the west. store and museum. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. boating and fishing are extra. the Pyramid Lake Fishway. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. of course. or dry lake bed. nine-mile-wide watering hole. From Nixon. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. boat ramp. Fremont. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island.000 BC. Just north of the marina. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. the world’s largest playa. If losing yourself is your goal. the road passes Wino. % 702-547-0187. Nearby. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. Camping. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe.
The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. caution and common sense are key to traveling. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. on 575. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. birds of prey. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. songbirds. spare tire. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. Besides antelope. one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. . tow chain. about one mile south of NV 140. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. preparedness is imperative. Help can be a long way away. and carry enough water. % 503-947-3315. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. even with one. Again. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. A shovel. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. TAKE CARE In this region. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. then head north 31 miles to NV 140.
% 702-847-7500. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. The Way It Was Rodeo. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. % 800-FOR-RENO. the Pony Express Re-Ride. % 702-782-2444.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. In Carson City. % 702-353-2291. % 702-882-1802. % 702-588-6211. % 702-329-7469. % 702-883-1352. Carson Valley Days. is a rip-snortin’ affair. % 702-265-5281. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. % 702-687-7410. Night Curves. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. In Virginia City. and Carson City is the site of American Heat. % 702-782-2211. In Reno. % 702-588-9658. % 702-329-3877. % 702-847-0311. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. % 702-882-1283.” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. bills itself as the “Wildest. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. heats up. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. % 702-882-1808. In Gardnerville. a rolling custom car show. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. Reno also . with food. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. % 702-829-1955. Richest Rodeo in the West. water. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. is held in Sparks. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts.
Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. % 702-782-9711. % 702-827-7603. In the skies. % 702-885-6939. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. In Incline Village. % 702-832-1606. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. gather in Minden. The Great Italian Festival. the Nevada State Fair. a sort of post-modern. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. % 702-688-5767. come to Virginia City along with a parade. % 800-535-3045. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. attracts American Indians from many Western states. the notorious Burning Man Festival.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. Street Vibrations. % 702-882-1565. deconstructionist Woodstock. is held in Reno. % 702-826-1181. takes place in Carson City. September The famous International Camel Races. % 702-972-6663. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. % 702-329-1476. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. % 702-329-7469. % 702-847-0311. On the Black Rock Desert. and the National Championship Air Races. . and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. the Native American Snow Dance. and the Nevada Day Parade. % 702-786-5700. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure.
There are more than 20 routes.14a). There are 10 routes. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. however. After crossing Galena Creek. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek.12a opportunities. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras.11a). 1994. all 5. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area.11c and heavier.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. whips around a peak. including Jello Wars (5. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. Overhangs present experts with 5. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. Farther south. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. are more chilling than the mountain air. with parking on the left just south of the vista point.11a and 5. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50. then climbs to a saddle. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes.000 feet. & A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy.11d) and Slayer (5. so dress appropriately. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. . Falcon Press Publishing. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. including Asylum (5. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. At the five-mile mark. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village.
Customized walking and driving tours are also available. Since the slide. After another mile. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. elevation 8. The trail ends at a highway. This hike is certainly strenuous. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. for children $5. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. offers a beautiful willow. The charge for adults is $12. NV 431. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. climbing 3. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. as are group tours. . Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. % 702-847-WALK. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. Hours are seasonal. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. % 702-6881893. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate.260 feet. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park.300 feet in just six miles.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. including great blue herons and birds of prey. so call first. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range.
For more information. Mahogany Mountain. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. is a good overnight point. write them at PO Box 20991. From here. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. OR 97441. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road. For travel information. To reach the trailhead. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. . who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. As this is being written. contact the BLM. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. % 916-279-6101.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. Yellow Hills East. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. For more information. The trail. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. as are 7. great horned owls and other birds of prey. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir.Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. Oakland. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. Madras. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. CA 94620. For road conditions and closures. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. Stevens Camp.
3335 Vista Boulevard. A steep. to the soaring summit at 9. PO Box 6145. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. Bighorn Outfitting. but they might also offer their services to hikers. Sparks. #111. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. Reno. gaining 2. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. 490 Kietzke Lane. The lakes. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. % 702-832-5231. % 702-333-6795. % 702-322-9559. NV 89450. Denio Junction. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. Incline Village. NV 89436. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. % 702-746-6878.397 feet. 1135 Terminal Way. NV 89511. 8550 White Fir Street. Reno. Nevada Guide Service. backpackers and photographers. % 702-626-6916. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. Outdoor Adventures. Look for the Knott Creek sign.200 lung-burning feet. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. NV 89502. % 702-851-1924. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. Silver State Outfitters. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. Patagonia Outlet. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. . The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. jogs through alpine meadows.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. terminus of the fairly flat. % 702-623-1500. 20 Daylily Court. On the east side of the reservoir.
% 702588-5664. % 702-849-9651. 4375 South Carson Street. % 702-8252855. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. % 702782-7011. In all four cases. also rents horses. After about three miles. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. contact Tin Cup Adventures.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. 155 East Moana Lane. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour. Near Washoe Lake State Park. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. 1675 East 4th Street. Sierra Spirit Ranch. % 702-849-1020. 1941 North Carson Street. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . Twin City Surplus. % 702-849-0570. % 702-885-7773. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. Strictly Scuba & More. % 702-831-5465. % 702884-3453. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. offers ranch day trips. 1201 Highway 395. % 702-8827779. In the highlands near Mount Rose. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. call first for availability and directions. % 702-323-5630. Zephyr Cove Stables. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. Sporting Rage. % 702-3584824. Sierra Mountaineer. Vogl Trek USA. and offers picnic rides. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. the trail makes a high-altitude. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. 4339 South Carson Street. which parallels North Canyon Creek. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake.
a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. To complete the loop. The half-paved. don’t screw it up. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. 84 miles back to Gerlach. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. north of Pyramid Lake. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. From here. Continuing northwest on NV 447. % 702-831-0494. to Vya. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. or ends. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. For detailed maps. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. depending on point of view. and they must yield the right-of-way to both. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. . Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. % 916-279-6101. Put simply. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway.
1999 South Virginia Street. 89502. 1993. 500 North Carson Street. 89502. % 702-747-1413. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 89502. 1987 North Carson Street. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. Great Basin Bicycles. call % 702-688-1500.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. 235 East Plumb Lane. Falcon Press Publishing. % 702-3226001. For more information. Excell Skates. Bicycle Warehouse. % 702883-3210. also known as NV 206. & According to Jeanne L. % 702786-5111. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. 3450 Lakeside Drive. % 702-825-8258. 89532. winter and spring. 4135 South Virginia Street. . Reno Schwinn. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. % 702-8871333. 89509. Bobo’s Ski Shop. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. Bike Brothers. 89502. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year. south of Carson City. % 702827-3277. % 702826-0800. along with Canada geese in fall. 89701. 89701.
200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns. personal water craft and kayaks. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. The trip. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. canoes. turkey vultures. offers 1. red-tailed hawks. 625 Fairview Drive. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. % 702782-0867. Spooner Lake. California. Contact the US Forest Service. rents powerboats. During spring and early summer. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators. % 702-8825007. 1685 Highway 395 South. cutthroat and rainbows. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. % 702-588-3369. 89450. kingfishers. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Nevada. Entrance fee is $3 per car. which can take up to seven hours. via NV 88 and CA 89. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. PO Box 3007. . On the Nevada side. coyotes. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. 89423. 89701. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. six miles south of Gardnerville.
The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. both on the eastern shore. % 702-688-1500. The smaller. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. For moving-water anglers. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning. only a mile west of downtown. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. are regularly stocked with rainbows. with campground and restrooms. thanks to Sierra runoff. and charges a launching fee. Idlewilde Park. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. % 702-6874319. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. planting and licensing information. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. A better option might be Ophir Creek.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin. the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. two to three miles up a steep trail. but in wet years. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. For the stalwart anglers. However. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. although . accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. For more adventurous angling. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. water levels. For directions. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. catfish and trout. There are two boat ramps. Washoe Lake State Park. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen.
Nevada Angler’s Guide. The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. a health advisory is still in effect. the setting here is primative. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. under Outfitters. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. Boats with outboards are permitted. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. however. while rainbow. % 702-688-1500. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. crappie and perch. There are two boat ramps on the lake. Camping is primitive. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. boasts a handful of isolated spots. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. used to separate gold and silver from ore. Rainbow. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. see below. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Come prepared. More than 100 years later. For more information. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. The reservoir is located on private land. In his book. . particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here.
294 East Moana Lane. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. Don’s Fishing Charters. Stateline. equally divided among novice. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. The Gilly. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. 155 East Moana Lane. % 702-825-2855. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. PO Box 6506. With a base elevation of 8. % 702-358-6113. % 702-588-4916. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. Reno Fly Shop. Tahoe Topliners. Mount Rose also offers lessons. % 916-546-4444. NV 89448. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. CA.440 vertical feet of runs. NV 89502. rentals and a shuttle bus. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. % 702-322-9559.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. Snowboarders are welcome. Zephyr Cove. NV 89502. PO Box 1909. % 916573-0753. NV 89431. .260 feet. 96145. intermediate and advanced.. Reno. % 702-827-0600. 490 Kietzke Lane. NV 89449. 89502. PO Box 10225. Sparks. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. NV 89448. PO Box 815. Reno. Tahoe City. Zephyr Cove. % 916-541-5448. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides.
For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. rentals.000 feet above sea level. the greatest acreage (4.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. Heavenly. Incline Village. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. 1210 Ski Way. This is a monster of a mountain. % 702-749-5349. and rental. Heavenly has 18 chairs. and/or snowshoes.500 feet). rentals and a shuttle bus are available. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177. $8 after 3 PM). skate skis. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. . The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. all-terrain skis. Lessons.000 to 9. lesson. Snowboarders are welcome. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. NV. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region.840 feet. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. % 702-7823047. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort. not to mention great views of the lake. % 702-831-8361. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. Lessons. lessons. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express. six surface lifts. lesson. with the longest vertical drop (3. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. 89451. a new gondola and the famous tram. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. trail pass) is $34. 45% intermediate and 35% advanced. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). For cross-country fans. Diamond Peak. which include a pass. there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not.800) and the highest top elevation (10. rentals. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. day tours and amateur races.
PO Box 19215. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. Snowind Sports. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. Stateline House of Ski. 89502. 89451. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 209 Kingsbury. C&J Flight Aviation. % 702-3239463. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. % 702-786-2020. Sierra Mountaineer. Bobo’s Ski Shop. % 702-786-7071. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. 89451. 16975 Mount Rose Highway. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. Excell Skates. % 702-358-4824. % 702-329-5358. CA 96151. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. 321 Sky Way. Mogul Mouse. 140 Vesta Street. 515 East Moana Lane. % 702-831-2922. 89502. 89502.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. Galena Ski Rentals. 2615 Mill Street. of- . South Lake Tahoe. Sundance Ski Company. 89502. % 702782-0867. 89502. % 916-544-1221. % 702-8269096. % 702786-5111. % 702-588-5935. 2500 East 2nd Street. 1685 Highway 395 South. 89451. % 702-3226001. 89502. % 702-831-3537. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. In Reno. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 235 East Plumb Lane. 89502. 89423. % 702-849-0111. 89502. Serva Ski. % 702831-3500.
$$$$$$$. $$$$. Harrah’s. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. $$$-$$$$. a dance club. Lake Village Vacations. offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. eight restaurants. % 702-588-8571. $$$-$$$$.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. also features condo accommodations. has 740 rooms. 398 US 50. Lake Tahoe. of course. % 800-648-3353. offers 534 rooms. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. % 800-635-0066. on this site since 1944. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere.. Harvey’s Resort. poolside service. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. High Country Soaring. three. The Douglas County Airport. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. % 702-784-4944. % 800-6483773. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. has two. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). Tahoe Summit Village. $$$-$$$$. the Sierras and. $$$-$$$$. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. % 800-99-RIDGE. . % 800-427-8397.
$$-$$$. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. lawn games. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. with more than 1. % 702-588-6644. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. % 800-322-7723. first-class. $$. % 800-225-6382.700 rooms on 38 floors. 593 North Dyer Circle. The Haus Bavaria B&B. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s. a rustic feel. the Cal-Neva Resort. $$$-$$$$. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. $$-$$$. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. % 800- . The Zephyr Cove Resort. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. 24 Highway 28. 210 North Center Street. % 800-687-8733. has 33 rooms. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. % 800-824-6391. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. % 800-624-7980.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. which serves free continental breakfast. $$-$$$$. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. 2 Stateline Road. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. $$. Today. As in Las Vegas. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. A perennial four-star winner. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. % 702-831-0287. Harrah’s. $-$$.$$-$$$$. % 702-8321234. % 800-731-6222. 111 Country Club Drive. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. combines great views. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. Among the downtown locations. $$$. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. 407 North Virginia Street. as well as a gym with instructor on site. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits.
2707 South Virginia Street. boasts nearly 600 rooms. % 800-622-1890. $$. % 702-786-4070. has a heated pool. a heated pool and other amenities. $$$$. 3575 South Virginia Street. $$-$$$. 3131 South Virginia Street. % 800-648-5966. including a barber shop.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. Charles Hotel. $$. 1100 Nugget Avenue. convention facilities and some impressive suites. which features theme rooms. two heated pools and a hair salon. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. % 702-8821887. 600 South Carson Street. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. % 702-358-1080. $$. $$$. which overlooks the state government center.000 rooms. Nearby. $$. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. free airport shuttle and skier rates. % 800-937-1436. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. % 702-825-7134. $$. % 702-882-3643. The St. % 800-320-0627. Away from downtown. and Vagabond Inn. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. $$. $$-$$$. % 800-723-6500. $$. 500 North Sierra Street. % 800-648-1177. Freeway convenient. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. welcomes bargain hunters. an owner-built. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard. Rates start at $195 per night. 1901 South Virginia. $$. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. $. 345 North Virginia Street. the Eldorado. has more than 1. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. the Motel 6. 701 East 7th Street. most notably the Days Inn. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. 310 South Carson Street. % 702-827-0255. is a three-story. the new Peppermill. Motel 6. Circus Circus.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. % 800-723-6500. % 800-282-2444. 710 West Robinson Street. $$$. The Atlantis. $. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel. . It has more than 1.
The motel has 40 rooms. $$$. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. 800 North Carson. generic motels abound in Carson City. 300 Main Street. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. It has four rooms. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. $$$. The Crooked House. $$. % 702-557-2220. 11 with private baths. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. % 800-962-0732. 907 South Carson. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. % 702-782-7075. $$. 2332 Main Street. % 702-8825535. is the center of the action. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. $-$$. There are 13 rooms. . and Pioneer. 1643 US 395. for weary wanderers. 180 Nixon Street. $$-$$$. 565 South D Street. has five rooms. $$. #800-628-7831. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. 2001 Foothill Road. % 800-321-6983. % 702-847-0521. and a casino. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. including the small Genoa House Inn. 1435 US 395. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. 1540 Main Street. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. $. the inn was built in 1872 by A. 1431 Ezell Street. $-$$. two with private baths.C. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. % 702-782-9711. % 702-847-9777. 1979 US 395. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. $$-$$$. 8 South F Street. The Chollar Mansion. % 702-782-7644. was built in the late 1800s. Pratt. % 702-847-0111. % 702-882-3046. It has four rooms. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. % 702-782-5697. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. 1627 US 395. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. $-$$. $-$$. $$$. some with kitchenettes. $$. % 702-782-8720.
Open for dinner only. The restaurant also does its own baking. % 702-825-1250. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. $. The place has 14 rooms. serves fresh Japanese steak. The hotels. The French cuisine is made with fresh. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. Reservations are recommended. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. % 702-588-2411. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Steak. Famous Murphys. 210 North Sierra Street. 1200 Razorback Road. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. % 702-323-5550. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. ethnic food and full buffets. % 702-941-0371. also run the gamut with delis. is a rousing pub with good food. 4201 West 4th Street. 3127 South Virginia Street. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. the menu changes every two months.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. % 702-786-1323. . % 702-827-4111. % 702-588-6611. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. 328 Kingsbury Grade. The Chart House. seasonal ingredients. no TVs and. coffee shops. the lake’s first casino. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. Ichiban. 3065 West 4th Street. % 702-588-6276. try the Glory Hole. Open for dinner only. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. including a seafood and oyster bar. % 702-323-3200. of course. a casino. along with Caesars Tahoe. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s.
Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. 1112 North Carson Street. seafood and steak. % 702882-1626. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. % 702-356-3300. % 702786-5700. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. 1301 North Carson Street. % 702-689-7226. % 702-785-7000. 234 North Virginia. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. Boasting a large Italian menu. one of the top Italian eateries in country. 4389 South Carson Street. % 702-882-0486. 402 East William Street. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. and Peppermill. Heidi’s. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. There is also an extensive wine list. % 702-882-3353. 2707 South Virginia Street. % 702-8835100. dinner only on weekends. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. El Charro Avitia. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. . Adele’s. % 702-883-6261. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. the Eldorado. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. Silvana’s. this is the place. 1020 North Carson Street. % 702-348-9297. 507 North Carson Street. Two blocks away. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. % 702-882-4556. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. % 702-8262121. The Carson Nugget Steak House. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. 1540 Main Street. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. 255 North Sierra Street. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. % 702-847-0111. South of the city center and south of the border. serves fine French cuisine. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare.
There are 44 campsites here. % 702-687-4319. for more information. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. the campground has 24 sites. % 916-279-6101. some for RVs and some for tents. Call the Cedarville. On the Nevada side. % 916-573-2600. % 702-789-2000. Mount Rose has running water. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. Rates run about $18 per night. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park. 2500 East 2nd Street. Set at 8. lies south of the river. % 702-322-2281. The overnight rate is $12. % 702-323-3381. Open June through September. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. office of the BLM. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. Showers are available. % 702-8822766.900 feet. Nightly fees are $6. Big Spring Reservoir. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River. which straddles the Nevada-California border. including Virgin Valley. . nine for RVs. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. California. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. For information and fees. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. call % 702266-3343. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. The nightly fee is $5. Reno RV Park. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. 1300 West 2nd Street. The overnight fee is $7. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. the campground has 54 sites and running water. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. 735 Mill Street. Simply wonderful. Open May through October.
On October 24.. 1861. Orphans preferred. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. skinny. California. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. and Sacramento. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Joseph.” Riders. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. the gutsy riders. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce. wiry fellows not over eighteen. Incredibly. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. Beginning in April 1860. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Bible and mail pouch.. tore between stations. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. carrying only a pistol.Pony Express Territory vada. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart. Missouri. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. Want ads called for “Young. willing to risk death daily. pausing only long enough to change mounts.
thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. there is excellent skiing. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. spans some of the most beautiful. Great Basin. In the higher mountains. this area has plenty to offer. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. hiking and wildlife viewing.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. glacier-carved peaks. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. .100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. Near the town of Ely. ridges and valleys in the country. so be prepared for anything. A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. It also harbors a wildly varying climate.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. Ranging in elevation from 3. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. But if you consider solitude. As might be expected. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. Just a few hours from Ely.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
1000 Auction Road. peregrine falcons. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. green-winged teals. With 10. 1050 South Maine Street.000 years. In recent years. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. White-faced ibis. below. . The Churchill County Museum & Archives.000 people. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. Over 14. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. Admission is free. January through March. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals. Sunday.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. (See On Water.000 photographic images. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. % 702-423-3677. April through December.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon. In peak years. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. snowy plovers. covers 77. flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. % 702-867-3500.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. canvasbacks.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. pelicans. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. % 702-423-5128.
which features the famous Blue Angels. The hunting season usually opens in October. is the artist in residence here. Over 8. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. Every spring. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. and “management” means hunting. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. More than 21. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art. Just east of town. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society.000 years ago.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. On the south end of town. Adam Fortunate Eagle. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. At press time. Pony Express Territory . Just off the highway are two short trails. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road.
Fallon. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. the low. roars and moans.” Booms. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. NV 89406.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon.” meaning sword. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. If the roar of engines ever dies down. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. regularly emanate from the dune. A hike to the precipice is a safe. % 702-423-4556. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. 379 West William Avenue. . Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). but strenuous. wild West. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. fauna. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. about three miles past West Gate. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. 100 Campus Way. NV 89406. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. geology and history of the region. Near the station. listen for the mountain’s “singing. dark. Fallon. % 702-423-2544. volcanic cliffs around it. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here.
the boom was followed by the bust. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. NV 89045. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. 13 miles east of Austin. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. then to paved NV 376. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . As always. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13.577 feet. Three miles later. % 702-964-2145. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. population about 300. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. Austin. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. PO Box 1149. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). NV 89310. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. past Bob Scott campground. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. Spencer’s Hot Springs. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. However the rush began.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. PO Box 212. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8.350 feet. then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. Austin is a quiet. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. Six miles later. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. Round Mountain. then climbs again to Austin. Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest. % 702-964-2200. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon.
Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. A long.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. Austin. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. The limestone cavern. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas.500 years ago. % 702635-4000. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. PO Box 212. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. PO Box 1420. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. . Just across Northumberland Pass (7. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. At mile 30. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. There is also a free campground here. % 702-964-2200. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon. experienced cavers only. A series of safe. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. are open to visitors just off the road.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. After merging with Lower Mine Road. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. near Pete’s Summit. At mile 55. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. Battle Mountain. The hill is located on private land. NV 89310.000 years ago. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. NV 89820. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. is recommended for serious. Use caution here and stay out of the pool.
found in the valleys around Eurkea. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. are still a major facet of the local economy. NV 89316. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. Eureka. Gold mines. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. some a little less gloriously than others. PO Box 14. dates from 1877. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. But by 1890 the rush was over. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . but most definitely worth a gander. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. and the Jackson House Hotel. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. The shell of the building. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). Eureka. The state’s No. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. Not until five years later.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin. however. completed in 1880 and still in use today. % 702-237-5484. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. Still. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. Eureka’s population of 9.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. The building. By 1878. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town.
% 702-237-5484. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin.000 feet. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. Monday through Friday and by appointment. n Ely Back on US 50. Pronounced EE-lee. A few miles farther south.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. NV 89316.500 residents. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. Situated at 9. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Entering town at night . running south into the Humboldt National Forest. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. Eureka. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. this mini-city (population about 5. PO Box 14. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. US 50 rolls across basin and range. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers.
Pony Express Territory . Return to US 50.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. showers and hiking trails. % 702-728-4467. East Ely. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. engine house. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. There is primitive camping here. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. NV 89301. a bicycle. running water. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. clothing. The White Pine Public Museum.300 feet. depot. % 702-2894710. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7.50 per person. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. PO Box 150040. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. as well as an original. % 702-289-2085. The museum. located on East 11th Street. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. like many museums in this territory. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. On the other side of town. former First Lady Pat Nixon. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. Admission is free. Since they went cold in the 1880s. depart on selected dates from May through September. accessories. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. Tours of the railroad yard. 2000 Aultman Street. Call for exact dates and times. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. furniture. Prices start at $10 per person.
mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. For more information. 636 Aultman Street. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. a proposal to create a 6. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. Most of the 77. In 1922. sometimes by the hundreds. Only about 70.000 people a year visit the park. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. In the 1950s a . Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. untamed backcountry. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is. % 702-234-7331. % 800496-9350. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. % 702-289-8877. 150 6th Street. % 702-289-4865. contact the Ely office of the BLM. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. Designated a national park in October. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. While hikers are welcome. Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. From Baker. 1986. That leads quickly to Baker.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. Bristlecone Convention Center. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure.
000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. which is actually one huge cavern. among others. below. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. Finally. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. (See On Foot and Camping. And even if the invasive livestock were banned. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park. or speleotherms: stalactites. are held every day except Thanksgiving. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman. The high-altitude campgrounds. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. stalagmites. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern. are hard to beat. flowstone and soda straws. Congress settled on 77. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. the park’s crown jewel. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. Prices are $4 for adults. too. $3 for juniors. draperies. .Touring n 111 plan for a 150.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. columns. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. in 1986. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. Baker. Call ahead for conditions.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174. NV 89311-9702. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. Tours of the cavern. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves.067-foot Wheeler Peak.086-acre Great Basin National Park. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. While celebrating a victory. then head straight out of the park. limited to 30 people at a time.000. ski resorts and tramways. % 702-234-7331. Christmas and New Year’s Day.000 to 44. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations.
which has picnic tables and shade trees. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. . Drive three miles to the recreation area. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then. south into Arc Dome Wilderness.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon. are spessartite. % 702-9642671. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley. Tierney Creek. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. to reach the village of Kingston. South Toiyabe Peak. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. Carvers NW. The garnets found here. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. Bakeoven Creek.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. To reach Garnet Hill.000 feet. Millet Ranch. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. or magnesiumaluminum garnet.600 feet. a few of which are even of gem quality. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. Set at 7. or use paved NV 376. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Arc Dome.
Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness. After about 10 miles of hiking.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. This is some serious highcountry hiking.000-acre. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah. headache. and Mount Moriah. as well as all the water you will need. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table. 1. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. is marked with trailhead signs. set aside in 1989. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. as is carrying plenty of water for each person. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. Pony Express Territory .000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. From the trailhead/parking area. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. If threatening clouds approach. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. a unique. with many trails climbing above 10. Baker. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. which may be impassable when wet. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5. The trail ends just before the summit. The wilderness. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. which at 12. leave the high country immediately. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove.000 feet along rocky. windswept paths. the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). which heads west toward the peak. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. % 702-289-3031 for more information. nausea.
The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow.063 feet. At 13. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. the last 1. Use extreme caution here. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. If it is safe to venture to the peak. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. then turn left again. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. or cirque. The bowl. Finally.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. Continue straight. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. This is another depression etched by a glacier. the six-mile . Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. then descends to Teresa Lake. To reach the summit. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. the views of the 8. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. In 1878.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West.
set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. just off to the east.700 feet in the first seven miles. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake.950 years. . This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake. which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. In good weather. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. After about three miles. Kious Spring. once the site of some mining activity. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. To continue the loop hike.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. To return to the trailhead. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. Return the way you came. subalpine conditions. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. this is a nice overnight stop. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. Wheeler Peak. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon.926-foot Pyramid Peak. Around mile six. Lehman Caves. Turn left.
89883. % 702-289-4468. 89301. % 702-423-6171. 89301. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. is worth a gander. . 89301. Sportsworld. 189 Aultman Street. 5030 Reno Highway. % 702-4239215. 89301. 89406. 1050 Aultman Street. Wendover George A. % 702-664-2977. 89406. 2005 Harrigan Road. % 702235-7439. 89406. 701 Avenue F. 203 Heritage Drive. J & P Auto Parts. Great Basin Inn. Flying M Stables. % 702-289-8886. % 702-423-5185. Box 33570. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. HC 34. White River Guide Service. As of presstime. a quartermile. 89406. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. 89406. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. % 702423-9215. sells camping and outdoor equipment. 3125 Stark Lane. 2011 Indian Lakes Road.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. % 702-238-5232. 89301. PO Box 34005. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. Daum. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. HCR 33. % 702-867-3388. PO Box 2560. Silver State Stables. 1707 Rice Road. 89301. Wildlife West Guide Service. % 702-289-4208. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. % 702-2893063. Burdick Guide Service. % 800-874-0903.
alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. Austin. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps.000 per year. PO Box 504. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. PO Box 130. the sixstory. brochures and campgrounds. % 702-885-6000. % 702-964-2671. For more information. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. NV 89310. For more information.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. Austin. A 10-mile loop with a 1. Dune-buggy. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. NV 89310. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. The route runs north out of the canyon. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. contact the BLM. one would think tiny Austin.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. population 300. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. Austin By its hip marketing campaign.
The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. directions and road conditions. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. when the weather is dry. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. % 702-289-8886. 1500 Aultman Street. . where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. % 702-234-7331. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. From the pavement. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. sells and services bicycles. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road. for maps. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. and bring plenty of water. past the US Forest Service station.
surrounds a 10. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. White crappie can be hooked March through May. Lahontan State Recreation Area. where worms and corn are said to work best. Boat ramps are located in two spots. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. The trout limit is 10. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. In 1997. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass.Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. % 702-688-1500. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here. along with sportfishing. Pony Express Territory . so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50.
% 702-289-4865. 1500 Aultman Street. The Upper Reese River. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. Great Basin Inn. is one of the biggest places in town. via paved NV 376 and a three. and one of the best bargains. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. % 702-289-3063. which feeds the lake. % 702-423-6031. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. % 702-289-8886. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. 701 Avenue F. 1050 Aultman Street. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. A few chain HO TE L .to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. % 702-289-4468. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. 855 West Williams Avenue. $-$$. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. J & P Auto Parts.
On the east end of town. 1705 South Taylor Street. $. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. basic equipment. The Nevada Belle Motel. $$$. $-$$. 115 Northwest Main Street. has 21 rooms. % 702-964-2306. which has 17 rooms. % 702-423-2277. % 702-964-2698. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). a heated pool and a small casino. $-$$. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. who really cares. try Jackson House B&B. 70 East Williams Avenue. which has 49 rooms. $$. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . 25 North Taylor Street. but after a long day on the road. 180 West Williams Avenue. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. $$. rates and directions. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. It is open seasonally. meals and overnight accommodations. instruction. % 702-423-4648. the Lincoln Motel. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. which has 30 rooms. The red brick structure was built in 1877. the 22-room Value Inn. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. % 702-423-2194. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. has 27 rooms. % 702-237-5247. called Main Street as it runs through town. most of which are on US 50. is a modern. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. the Pony Express House. $-$$. % 702-237-5577. $-$$. including the Comfort Inn. % 702-423-4254. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. % 702-964-2471. has 17 rooms. % 702-423-5554. For a real blast from the past. also called Main Street here. Call for information. a heated pool and interior corridors.800 acres. the Budget Inn. As you drive in from the west. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. $$$. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. and. The Sundown Lodge. with 10 rooms. % 702-423-5151. 1830 West Williams Avenue. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. The Eureka Motel. $-$$. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. $-$$. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. combines a B&B with a private. % 702-9642605. $. which is north-south running US 95. % 702-237-5334.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. while on the southern edge of town. Smith Creek Ranch. $. The ranch.
The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. There are also private balconies. 220 East 11th Street. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. For a more modern taste. Ely With a population of more than 5. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. % 702-289-4747. 1101 Aultman Street. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. the building was vacant 10 years later. which has 19 rooms. $$. % 702-289-4497. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi.300. % 702289-6671. % 702-289-8838. 701 Avenue I. 770 Avenue O. has 21 rooms. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. 700 Avenue I. The inn is open June through September. $-$$. $$-$$$. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. the inn has five rooms with private baths. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. % 702-289-4884. 501 Aultman Street. $. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. $-$$. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. For a more genteel stay. located on the south side of town off US 93. is another living antique. $-$$. 5th . two-story hotel. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. % 702-289-8900. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50. $-$$. % 702-289-6665. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. $. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. 930 Aultman Street. $-$$. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. After years of dormancy. The Bristlecone Motel. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. 500 High Street. which has 61 rooms. has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. and its twin. $-$$$. % 702-2891234. % 702-237-9988. % 702-289-8687. 1501 Avenue F.
the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. % 702-289-3033. The Silverjack Motel. % 702-289-3800. and Whispering Elms RV Park. NV 89311. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. and the White Pine Motel. 24hour laundromat and showers. the Border Inn. 1301 Aultman Street. Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. even fast food joints are nonexistent. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. % 702-289-4411. Baker. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park.. % 702234-7300. $-$$. $. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel.er. 150 4th Street. % 702-234-7343. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. Behind the Silverjack. so call ahead for operating hours. what with its 29 rooms.. Utah. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. % 702-237-7302.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. $-$$. % 702234-7323. along with horseback riding. offers tipis and a campground. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. . % 702-234-7323. South of Baker at the national park boundary. is a favorite spot for travelers. which has a laundromat and showers. % 702-234-7272. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch. guided tours and off-road adventures. and two others outside of Baker. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. $. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. It is open June through August. PO Box 90. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. with its seven rooms. $. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. $. % 702-234-7267. At presstime there were two places to stay in town.
% 702-964-9905. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. lunch and dinner. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. including McDonald’s. % 702-423-3111. Café Nations. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. % 702423-6828. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. try Mary’s Owl . houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. Stockman’s Casino. Carol’s Country Kitchen. In 1929 and ’30. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. is also open for three squares a day. The Depot Casino. % 702-423-6166. Open for breakfast. % 702-423-3233. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. The Fallon Nugget Casino. 960 Auction Road. including the few eateries. Smack in the center of town. 70 South Maine Street. 1350 West Williams Avenue. Toiyabe Café. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. The International Café and Bar. % 702-964-2220. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. 125 South Maine Street. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. % 702-867-3750. is Fallon’s only coffee house. serves up steaks. 875 West Williams Avenue. specializing in omelets and steaks. is known throughout Fallon. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. 1955 McClean Road. % 702-423-2117. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. The Mexican food at La Cocina. % 702-423-5588. Tony’s. If your mind is on pizza. % 702-867-2769. 1560 West Williams Avenue. Denny’s. % 702-964-2493. In the 1920s and ‘30s. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. however. 4150 Reno Highway. have been serving great burgers. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. Kentucky Fried Chicken. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). is home to The Diner.
% 702-289-3313. 501 Aultman Street. % 702-237-5477. % 702-237-5280. which features prime rib. and is attached to a bar. The Owl Club. top sirloin steak and eggs. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. serving diner-style grub. % 702-237-5356. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. % 702-964-2412. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . Fallon RV Park. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. lunch and dinner at 6 AM. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. 701 Avenue I. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. % 702-289-3033. serves a fine steak sandwich. % 702-289-4888. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. The Busy Bee Drive-In. % 702-867-3636. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. and Hubtotel RV Park. % 702-289-4884. however. has 64 sites. Jerry Restaurant No. 1455 Aultman Street. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. % 702-2289-3765. located three miles north of town on US 93. offers 45 sites. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. West of Fallon. 4800 Reno Highway. where the restaurants are also along US 50. % 702-289-3905. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. 5787 Reno Highway.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. The Fireside Inn. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. % 702-289-6665. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. is also open 24 hours a day. might as well top it off in Eureka. % 702-867-2332. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. 562 Aultman Street. Believe it or not. 211 5th Street. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. % 702-688-1500. Lahontan State Recreation Area. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. % 702-964-2627. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. and Orient Express. 2160 Aultman Street. 21.
there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. For information. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. NV 89310. 24 miles east of Austin. After a few miles. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. % 702-964-2671. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. picnic tables and vault toilets. To reach Bird Creek campground. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies.800 feet. Bob Scott Campground. contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. For more information and road conditions.500 feet. contact BLM Battle Mountain District.300 feet. as there are no services near the water. Battle Mountain.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. None have running water. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Only six miles southwest of Ely. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. North of Ely. Just east of the Eureka town limits. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. % 702-964-1011. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. where there are eight campsites set at 7. There are 10 sites here . Just east of town.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. PO Box 130. along with campfire rings. No running water or firewood. About nine miles south of Big Creek. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. Open April to October. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. set at 7. both off of US 50. grills. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. PO Box 1420. then go a mile to County Road 1059. Finally. which are open June through September with running water. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground. % 702-635-4000. There is drinking water here. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). Austin RV Park. Austin. There are 15 sites. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek.936-foot peak near Murray Summit. NV 89820. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery.
752 feet. The BLM. this is the only park campground open all year. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. and Valley View RV Park. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. and there are no showers. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September.886 feet. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek.250 feet).530 feet. on US 93. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road. has 100 sites. depending on weather conditions. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. % 702-289-4865. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. Upper Lehman. Ely. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. % 702-2893303. In Great Basin National Park. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. For more information. Contact the visitors center. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker.300 feet. To reach the campground from US 50. % 702-2893413. On the northern edge of the park. Set at 7. In the center of the park. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. 89301. Pony Express Territory . Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. % 702-234-7331. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. 350 8th Street. NV. % 702-2893031. There are 30 sites here at 7.
700 years. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. who described them as “lowly old giants. . Today in Cowboy Country. sagebrushcovered sea. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia.000-year-old duck decoys. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. humans. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. the state animal. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. call many parts of this high country home. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. Throughout history.000 feet and more.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. the oldest living thing on earth. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. reaching as high as 11. started pulling core samples. He found one living specimen dating back 4. however. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. Edmund Schulman. not many of them stayed around very long. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. Named Methuselah. The short. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. Desert bighorn sheep. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat.
500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. Carry good maps and a compass. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. bikers and equestrians. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. lakes and reservoirs. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. towns like Winnemucca. streams. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. bass and other gamefish. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers.000 years. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. Elko headed the list of the 100 . The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout. As remote as Cowboy Country can be. and know how to use them. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. The weather here can be as wild as the land. In 1993. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns. Winter brings rain and snow. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. In fact. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. Summers are generally hot and dry. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions.
Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. but thanks to new mining technology. parts of which are still visible today. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. both held in Elko. after the riches ran out. followed by the doomed Donner Party. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. This is a place where pick-up trucks. lunch and dinner. including one named Samuel Clemens. But since the early days. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. Cowboy Country . this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. others moved on. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. but everyday tools. The famous trail. took to sheepherding. In late 1860s. paralleled the Humboldt River. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. combed Cowboy Country.
when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. which crosses the Humboldt River. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. which the company named after him. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River.300. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. After eight miles. about 17 miles from Lovelock. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. located on the southern outskirts of town. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs.000-square-mile Pershing County. Reid was the first white person to see the cave. George Lovelock. The seat of 6. turn left on Derby Road. which measures . Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. arrived here in 1866. With a population of just over 2. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right. Five miles southwest of the shelter.
red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. % 702-273-2713. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. NV 89419. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- .Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. are large. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. in 1886 or 1887. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. the first ever in the Great Basin. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. picnicperfect park. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. many of which were donated by locals. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. Tufas. Lovelock. dark. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. Admission is free. which also features the community pool. clothing and household items. PO Box 821. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. Scientific excavations. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. He may have been led there by Natchez. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. One of only two round courthouses in the country. Mummified remains were found here. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921.
22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. where stone . is centered on this man-made lake. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. Lovelock. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. % 702-538-7321. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. NV 89419. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. About 16 families reside in Unionville. After later taking the name Mark Twain. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. as well as opportunities for boating. For details. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. below) and wellmanicured homes. see below under Adventures. To reach the tufas from the courthouse. PO Box 821. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. which seems close enough to touch. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped. fishing and camping.134 n Cowboy Country vada. % 702-273-2713. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). Open all year.
Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. a good spot for a picnic. From here it’s five miles to the town. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. They later brought their families. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. Edna Purviance. % 702-623-2912. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. Admission is free. Curator . Today their descendants. a former resident. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. except for lunch. the Humboldt Museum complex. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. % 702/623-2225. Winnemucca (population 7. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. To reach Unionville from I-80. dancing. including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko.
NV 89445. nabbing $32. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. % 800-962-2638. Winnemucca. NV 89445. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. 602 Bridge Street. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. 352 Bridge Street. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. % 702-623-5025. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. % 702623-5025. one of two in the country. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel. 95 Bridge Street. Like something out of old Mexico.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. but all are easily drivable.000 in gold. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. The thieves escaped to Texas. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. The tour visits 30 sites. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. Winnemucca. Winnemucca. The former First National Bank. % 702-623-1500. . US Forest Service. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. NV 89445. along with a thank you note. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. Another gem is the Shone House. Winnemucca. There is a gift shop next door. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. 705 East Fourth Street. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. St. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. was erected in 1863. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday.000. NV 89445. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority.
Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. Jungo. A small saloon and café remain in Midas. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. and 2. Three years later the village became Paradise City. established Scottsdale in 1866. Today about 100 people live in town. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. which .300 people had moved by 1913. take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. which serves as a meeting place and information center. the town was an empty shell. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. Midas is two miles from this junction. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. To reach the remains of the camp. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. A 20th-century ghost town. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. The camp was abandoned by 1869. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. along with the local watering hole. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. The Rochester Mining District. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s. once a busy town of more than 2. after fending off resident Paiutes. all but 250 people left.
000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. (See Adventures and Camping. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80.) In town. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. this is Cowboy Country. biking. however. % 702-7383418. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. The local mining. Elko traces its roots back to 1868. offers a bar. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking. A state park.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. 1515 Idaho Street. Just south of town. this town of about 25. is easy to locate. Basque . just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. sometimes an angler’s paradise. beautiful high-country lake. It’s the white. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. % 702-578-3381. Gas is also available. located on the extreme east end of town. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. fishing and camping. Paradise Saloon. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. % 702-623-5025. obtain maps. verdant marshes. In Winnemucca. After all.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. (See Adventures. deli and soda fountain.
Harris Field. % 702-738-5131.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday. along with various other events throughout the year.C. and a charter airline. The Western Folklife Center. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. % 800-453-9417.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. El Aero Services. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. geology and industry abound. 1 PM to 5 PM. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. geography. Displays of local wildlife. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy.Touring n 139 immigrants. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. and Sunday. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. % 702-738-7123. 501 Railroad Street. % 800-331-1212. Hertz Rent-A-Car. % 702-738-7508. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. Admission is free. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. 10 AM to 5 PM. % 800-654-3131. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. 9 AM to 5 PM. For airport information. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. . % 800-8727245. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. Deweys Rent-A-Car. also known as J. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912.
From town. 89801. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. Humboldt National Forest. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. At the . with elevations ranging up to 11. Elko Chamber of Commerce. % 800-248-ELKO. 89801. Elko. making for some of the most beautiful hiking. Elko. 3900 East Idaho Street. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. From Elko.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. 89801. Elko. including the remote. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. located southeast of Elko. % 702-753-0200. % 702-738-5171. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. 976 Mountain City Highway. Alpine vistas. % 702-738-7135. 700 Moren Way. 89803.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. 90. fishing and camping in the entire West.387 feet at Ruby Dome. passing Powerhouse picnic area. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. 1601 Idaho Street. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. Elko. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains.800 feet). (See Adventures and Camping.
A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. down into Jarbidge Canyon. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. see below. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. is spectacular.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. then north another 25 miles. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. Nevada. so drive cautiously. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. . As small and remote as Jarbidge is. For details on all of this. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. and by the 1930s the rush was over. From the south. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. For access to both. this town sticks to Mountain Time. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time. or call them at % 702-488-2315. From Wells. U-shaped valley. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. check with the owners of the Trading Post. The road leads east 21 miles. a high clearance vehicle is required. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. and there’s no argument here.387 feet. turns south. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin.500 people flooded into the region. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. Even when they are open. is visible in the west. Yes. Ruby Dome. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. More than 1.Touring n 141 crest. rising 11. Idaho. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. (See On Foot. the road meets the Jarbidge River. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks.
647 Humboldt Avenue. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. both available at the Trading Post.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower.) On the Utah side of the state line. % 801-665-7721. however. For ghost town fans. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. stop at Horizon Viewpoint. head east from the border. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. which rises to 11. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. and the 37. % 702-752-3215.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. exit at No. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. the presence of casinos. the main difference between the two sides being. the main artery running up the east side of the state. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. To access the flats. Sunday until 9 PM. 4 and go five miles northeast. but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. of course. The range is also home to Angel Lake. This is also the junction of US 93. the 44. Before entering town. n Wendover From Wells. The town was abandoned in 1942. stare out across the famous. try Stuart’s Foodtown. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. reached easily via a paved highway. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . n Wells From Elko. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side. Cool. Bonneville Speedway Museum.
% 702-664-3414. is held in late March or early April. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. which attracts upwards of 10. the historic World War II B-29s. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada. falcons and ospreys are common. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. hawks.600 feet in two miles. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar.000 buckaroos. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover. a . Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. June Both hay. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. which gains 1. The night before the events. Eagles. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. Call % 702-635-8245 for more information.
The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. call % 702-635-8245. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. Unless otherwise indicated. under Touring. Near Wendover. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. dancing. Phone numbers can be found above. There is a traditional dance contest. six. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. . jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. July In July. when tanks. a parade and feats of strength. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. The largest Basque get-together in the US. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca.or 23-mile loop. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. hear the music and eat the food. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. The town of McDermitt. For details. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles.. In Wendover. featuring food.
Granite Peak (elevation 9. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. Pronghorn antelope.200 feet.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. which . is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak. passable by high-clearance vehicles. crossing Buffalo Creek. Aspen. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. From here.000 feet in four miles. the road. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet.834 feet). The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. Star Peak (elevation 9. Star Peak. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. including the 31. The first half of the moderately strenous. Chartered in 1989. willow and cottonwood country. go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. To reach the trail. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest.732) is the highest point. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. From the top. The trailhead appears after three miles. leads due east toward the highest point. To reach the trailhead. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. 1994. Falcon Press Publishing. climbing more than 4. The trail is punishing. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. This makes for a great loop drive.
A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip.415). then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. narrow canyons. including Singas Creek. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out.800 feet above sea . Mountain lions. depending on weather conditions. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). glacial lakes. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching.” Elevations range from 6. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon. descends toward a watercourse.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. big horn sheep. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. where you turn south. High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. % 702-623-5025. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October.6 miles to a parking area. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. Horses are welcome on these trails. cirque basins. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. about one mile south of town. Return the way you came. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada. Come prepared for anything. Hikers can visit rock peaks. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. USGS 7. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. more than 10.
The pass is often closed in winter. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. so check road conditions before heading out. Pause to rest but not to fish. then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. % 702-738-7135.400 feet and heads north. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. Hyslop. of course. Feel free. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. At 10. as there are no trout here. Franklin Lake NW.300-foot . take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. set at 9. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. know this region as well as anyone. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. and his dog Molly. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. a computer instructor at Great Basin College.400 feet. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. % 702-752-3357. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road).Adventures n 147 level. From Roads End. The 1. this is the high point of the trek.500 feet. The five-mile. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. After about a mile and a half. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko. then descends again to cross Trout Creek.
700 feet. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. Return the way you came. the closest town. Most of the paths are found in the 113. subalpine forests. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake. Idaho. Just past the spring. Unfortunately. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. Finally. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed.000-foot mark. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes. The trail drops again. On a good day.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. Wild- . From the trailhead.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake.000 feet to 10. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. For more information. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. mountain whitefish. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. brown and rainbow trout. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. campsites and restrooms. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. The site has a paved boat ramp. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. call % 702-758-6493. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. and black bass have become a favorite catch. rainbows. Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. % 702-623-5025. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. Channel cats. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. supports brook. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. To reach the lake from Elko. is also a good fishing spot. and everything is open year-round. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- .
including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. For an easier drive from Wells. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. trumpeter swam. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. For more information. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. Turn left and head south 32 miles. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. short-eared owl and American kestrel. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8.154 n Cowboy Country ers. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. . then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass.000 acres. At the foot of the range. elevation 8. including bald and golden eagle. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. Within six miles of the trailhead. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. so check road conditions before heading out. white-faced ibis. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west.800 feet. at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. To reach the refuge from Elko. % 702-738-5171. contact the US Forest Service. Angel Lake Near Wells. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. midway between the northern and southern portions. great sandhill crane. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge.
HC 60. 89833. crystalline Blue Lakes. have become a local haven for divers. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. 1250 Lamoille Highway. Secret Pass Outfitters. 423 South Bridge Street. catfish. For more information. % 702-664-3414. 89801. % 702-777-DIVE. 89801. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. the spring-fed. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. Rainbow. 89801.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. Grandview Marine. % 702-7442277. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. % 702-7382775. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. 2511 Mountain City Highway. the bowcut trout. % 702779-2268. 285 12th Street. To reach the 2. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . 89833. % 702-625-2453. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. 89801. HC 60. HC30 Box 17 #13. Raley’s. PO Box 515. % 702779-2226. Elko Guide Service. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. In warmer months.400-acre lake. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters. % 702-7388473. PO Box 685. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. are the best bets here.
drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. is the most happening place in town. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko. lounge. covering 5. The outfit boasts 5. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder. with a 24-hour casino. $$$.000 acres of skiable mountain. depending on snowfall. pool and jacuzzi. restaurant. The Lovelock Inn. Trips are limited to 16 people. Elko SnoBowl. $-$$. 55 Cornell Avenue. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March. % 702-753-6867. Lunch and dinner are extra.500 feet. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. 2805 Unionville Road.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. % 702-273-2937. To reach the ranch from I80. not to mention 74 rooms. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. one tame and the other decidedly not so. lodging and all the extras. offers 130 acres of terrain. % 702-738-7135.200 feet. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. . Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. % 702-538-7585.200 vertical feet. ranging from 5. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. Although there isn’t a television to be found.500 to 6. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. then head west for five miles to town. $$. % 800-528-1234. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible. 1420 Cornell Avenue. is convenient to I-80. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. The Best Western Sturgeon’s.
eateries. % 702-738-8787. restaurant and full bar. the Ameritel Inn Elko. the Red Lion Inn. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. $$. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. 2050 Idaho Street. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$$. $$-$$$. % 702-738-8425. % 702-7387261. restaurant and bar. but also its own charter airline. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $-$$. $-$$. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. There are also two Best Westerns. the Gold Country Motor Inn. % 702-623-3646. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. the Super 8.000. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. % 800-262-8901. $$. the Red Lion Inn. $-$$. 837 Idaho Street. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. offers 40 rooms. 400 1st Street. The Gold Country Inn. a lounge with live entertainment. including the queen of Elko establishments. the 80-room Val-U Inn. in- . % 702-625-1818. 1930 Idaho Street. $$$. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. the 170-room Holiday Inn. casino. % 702-623-1116. $$. with 150 rooms. is for you. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. $$. The Red Lion not only has a casino. % 800-545-0044. 3015 Idaho Street. % 702-623-3661. and the Days Inn. and the generic. % 702-623-1180. $-$$. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. 2065 Idaho Street. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-623-5248. and the Holiday Motel. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$-$$$. % 702-738-8421. and the Motel 6. Casino Express. a pool and 223 rooms. $$$$$. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. $$-$$$. offering 70 rooms. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. % 800-645-5658. There are plenty of cheap. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. % 800-633-6435. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. $$. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. starting with the two biggies. basic motels on the main drag. % 800-346-5306. and the Model T Motel.
is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. $-$$. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. along with a pool. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. % 702-738-8488. Jiggs Guest Ranch. % 702-753-6363. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. 345 Idaho Street. $$. 1755 Idaho Street. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. $-$$. $$-$$$. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. % 702-753-6281. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. 2401 Mountain City Highway. $$$$. % 702-578-3530. restaurants. The Shilo Inn. $$$-$$$$. . Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. bar and pool. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. $$$-$$$$. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. % 702-738-7115. PO Box 281208. biking and horseback riding. hiking and fly fishing. Red’s Ranch. and the Thunderbird Motel. $$$-$$$$. There are 141 rooms. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. detached cabin with jacuzzi. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. 340 Commercial Street. Away from Idaho Street. PO Box 281381. % 702-738-5141. % 702-753-6356. is an exclusive. $-$$. 89828. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. Lamoille. some with kitchenettes. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. Stonehouse Country Inn.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. including skeet shooting. a swimming pool. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. jacuzzi and fitness center. Stockmen’s Hotel. has 70 rooms. There is even space for campers and RVers. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. $$. $$-$$$. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. % 702-738-5522. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. Just outside of Lamoille.
offers another 24 rooms. $-$$. has 56 rooms. % 702-7523065. The Super 8.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. and the Best Western Sage Motel. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. 89826. For more information. the Chinatown Motel. % 702-4082338. 576 6th Street. HC 62. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. Cottonwood Ranch. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. Down the street. PO Box 1300. even by the neighbors in Utah. On Main Street. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. $$$-$$$$. % 702-752-2151. $-$$. 1250 East 6th Street. 100 Wendover Boulevard. % 800-848-7300. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. Together . Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. HC 62. the Rest Inn Suites. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. There are 57 rooms. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. which also has a restaurant and bar. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. if you’re into chains. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. There are more than 1. If not. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. % 702-752-3888. $-$$. and the Old West Inn. % 702-752-2116. 456 6th Street. $. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. % 702-752-3384. $-$$. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. PO Box 300. 930 6th Street. $. % 702-488-2315. % 702-488-2311. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. $. 326 6th Street. Jarbidge. $. % 702-752-2277. $-$$$$. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. $$-$$$. On the north side of town. % 702-752-3604. most of them planted along 6th Street. % 702-752-2101. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. $$-$$$. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. the Outdoor Inn. PO Box 260090. % 702-752-3353.
Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. shrimp and Basque side dishes. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. and Pizza Factory. % 702-273-3232. is open until 10 PM every day. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. 750 Cornell Avenue. 485 Cornell Avenue. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. and until 2 PM on Sunday. is another gamer’s haven. leg of lamb. % 702-273-2442. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. serving steak. including restaurants and lounges. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. live showroom entertainment. 9 PM on Sunday. restaurants.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities.000-square-foot casino. pool and jacuzzi. La Casita. Nearby. % 800-648-9660. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. lunch and dinner. . Mexican food and pizza. offers breakfast. with 90 rooms. $$-$$$. $-$$. Wee B’s Pizza & More. 1420 Cornell Avenue. % 702-273-7773. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. 260 Maine Street. The Peppermill Hotel. the Super 8. a 14. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. lounges. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. a health club. % 702-273-2971. % 702-664-2888. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. pool. which basks in the Basque tradition. % 702-623-3197. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. dancing and an 18-hole golf course. % 800-537-0207. jacuzzi. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. % 702-273-7444. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. 410 Cornell Avenue. tennis courts. along with daily specials. $$. live entertainment. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare. which has live entertainment. 680 Wendover Boulevard. In the center of town.
since 1863. China Garden. % 702-623-4104. The Steak House. Elko The Red Lion Inn. 1550 Idaho Street. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. seafood and chicken. 180 Melarkey Street. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. 95 South Bridge Street. while The Griddle. 1061 West Fourth Street. Toki Ona. is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. % 702-738-3214. 2065 Idaho Street. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. % 800-545-0044. Restaurante San Fermin. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. and dinner only Friday and Saturday.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. % 702-623-3455. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. % 702-623-2908. % 702-625-2555. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. % 702-623-2977. % 702-738-5141. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. The atmosphere is definitely casual. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 405 Silver Street. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ. . The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. % 702-738-9691. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. but get there before 1 PM. all of their meat is cut to order. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. 340 Commercial Street. home of the world’s largest potato field. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. % 702-623-6777. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. This being ranch country. % 702-623-4440. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. Another Basque establishment. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. Stockmen’s Hotel. Specializing in steak. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960.
The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. 780 Commercial Street. If you crave Mexican food. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. opens daily at 11 AM. % 702-7382541. Main and Humboldt Streets. Prices range from moderate to expensive. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. where it survived The Big One in ’06. . to peruse the ornate bar. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. % 702-752-3210. delivers on its name. % 702-753-6356. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). Burger Bar. 1740 Mountain City Highway. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. La Fiesta. 2525 Mountain City Highway.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. % 702-488-2311. The breakfast burritos are particularly good.300 souls. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. Pizza Barn. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. % 702-4882315. % 702-753-6363. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates. % 702-738-7088. % 702-753-3877. % 702-738-1622. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties. Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. 9 Beans and a Burrito. 217 Idaho Street. % 702-738-7898. also serves hearty meals. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. Pine Lodge. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. depending on weather conditions.
call % 702-538-7321. call % 702-738-5171. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. $8 for a two-family site. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley. 23. For modern hunter-gatherers. call % 800-962-2638. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. % 800-648-9660. Sites 22. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. two beautiful US Forest Service . which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. Set at 7. 25. just north of the dam. The Peppermill Hotel. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. including the ubiquitous casino buffet. which holds trout and walleye. The main draw here is 11. Fees are $7 per night in summer.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. the area has two campgrounds. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. There is running water and vault toilets. For more information. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest.600 feet. Set at 7. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. % 800-848-7300. 680 Wendover Boulevard. 100 Wendover Boulevard. The fee is $7 per night. 22 miles north of Lovelock. The other one. $3 per night in winter.400 feet. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. 27 and 29 are especially good. For more information. For more information. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. offer 12 different restaurants.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. located at the end of Hanson Street.
depending on the availability of running water. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. About five miles up NV 225. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. For more information. all free. including three run by the US Forest Service. The fee is $5 per night. One mile north of town. Angel Creek is set at 6. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. For information on the above campgrounds. Set at 8. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir. and are open June to October. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752.500 feet.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231. % 208-5434129. has 37 first-come. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. and the fee is $8 per night. offering 18 sites with running water. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. . The campground. first-served sites. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15.800 feet and is popular with anglers. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. The cabins are open October through mid-May. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. The campground is usually open May 23 through October.900 feet. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. % 702-752-3357. with running water. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. but no running water. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. and the fee is $7 per night. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground.
All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. both socially and physically. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson. Meanwhile. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. however. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. an 11. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. are in a state of “arrested decay.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days. like Belmont and Rhyolite. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. US For- B Pioneer Territory . but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. writer. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. Others. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. who once roamed this entire area.
166 n Pioneer Territory .
Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. low taxes. and six state parks to explore. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. Nevada Division of State Parks. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. but the rest of the country. affordable housing . Department of Defense.Touring n 167 est Service. where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. In the Mojave Desert. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. Rocky Mountain elk. There is plenty of unspoiled territory. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. then limber pine at higher elevations. the following section assumes adventurers will start there. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. Toiyabe. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. People and services are scarce. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. Geographically. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains.000. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. In the lowlands. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park.
The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. % 702-7270896.000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. The 22. 1141 South Highway 160. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. only winery in Nevada. as of this writing. mission-style. % 702-7276900. 1771 Sagehen Road. On the south end of town in a modern. there’s no competition). In 1997. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). Information Sources For more Pahrump information. contact the Chamber of Commerce. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. It’s also one of the hottest. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. According to Winona LaDuke. % 702-727-5800. blue and white building.000-acre refuge is managed by the US . % 702-751-0821. is the first and. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. authorizing up to 90.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%. 3810 Winery Road. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°.
Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. It’s no easy job. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. following the signs to Ash Meadows. coyotes and rabbits. however. and the second-greatest in all of North America. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. snipe. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals.300 spread over 545 square miles. moorhens. HCR 70. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. coots. prairie falcons. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. . NV 89020. % 702-372-5435.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. % 702-372-1131. for some handmade Mexican food. including ducks. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. Box 610Z. Visitors can. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. whitefaced ibises. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. great blue herons. mallards. inaccessible to the general public. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. Amargosa Valley. then head west for about 20 miles. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips.
NV 89020. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. the gray. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. maps. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. 19 hotels. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. HC 70. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. Kelly’s Bottle House. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours.000 claims over 30 square miles. % 702-3725459. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. Amargosa Valley. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley.000. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. and the old train depot. and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. for more information. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. three newspapers. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. % 702-5532200. Now recognized as a state historic site. PO Box 6102. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. .000. 50 saloons.
Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. crystal chandeliers. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. constructed in 1908 for $500. when the money ran dry. keeping a population of more than 20. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. turn-of-the-century frontier community. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. Local residents were used as models.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. Today the remains of stone buildings. life-size. % 702-553-2424. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. By 1920. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks.000 dizzy with gold fever. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion.000. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite.” a collection of white. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. however. Goldfield Founded in 1902. Once the largest city in the state. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. . In the first decade of the 20th century. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper.
Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. Before heading out.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. built in 1908 and still in use today. 301 Brougher Avenue. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. and spend a few hours following its trail. and east-west-running US 6. % 702-482-9676. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. % 702482-3558. the Central Nevada Museum. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. . including the old post office that is now the local museum. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. % 702-485-6365. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. however. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse.
Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. see below under On Foot. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. Bartlett House. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. Admission is free. the town exploded – figuratively – and . slide show and research facilities. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. including a map room. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday.000 acres. For more on these wonderful regions. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. In 1911. The museum is open daily. are available by special request. A library. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. Mineral. The hillsides abound with the original headframes. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. which helped put the state on the map. For more information. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. As this is being written. power plants. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. photographs and exhibits. ore bins. call % 702-482-5355. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. Located on the north edge of town. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. As a judge. which total more than 260. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. with Hawthorne the new seat. 9 AM to 5 PM. which dates to 1906. Like many Nevada locales. and the 1907 George A.
however. just three miles from the California border.) Before heading to the lake. below. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. % 702-945-5142. Near the northern tip of the lake. The museum is open Monday through Friday. the town boasted 1. minerals. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. and by 1890 the good times were over. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County. The Mineral County Museum. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining.000. % 702-945-3266.500 people. fire and railroad equipment. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. paved road on the right. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center. is nearby Walker Lake. at the corner of 10th and D streets.000 residents. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. Admission is free. To see where it all started. rocks. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. To reach Candelaria. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. restaurant and Native American gift shop. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. 898 E Street. The main attraction. At the zenith of its existence. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. a combination truck stop. cameras and photography. Take this road six miles to the town. wildlife and fossils. (See On Water. noon to 4 PM in winter. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. Victorian furniture. Nevada seat and the Mono .
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. Boats are not recommended. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond.200 feet. is open year-round. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March.200 acres come complete with deep canyons. All of them offer overnight camping. Kershaw-Ryan State Park.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. below). Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. For information on any or all.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. native plants and unique rock formations. The park. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. along with many other events. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. From . located in a long. % 702-728-4467. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. The 2. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. set at 5. pinyon and juniper forests. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. but travel is not advised during winter months. There are 42 campsites. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. From Caliente.
Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. From Caliente. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. Winter travelers might also find snow here. hazy afternoon. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. The original building costs totaled $16. which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. There are 37 campsites. government cover-ups. All told. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. Packed with historic points of interest. they ran up to $1 million. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. true believers theorize. % 702-962-5215. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869.000. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. for a walking/driving tour map.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. men in black and all things conspiratorial.
TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. a thought scarier than any little green men. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. If you’re in the neighborhood. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. sleeping quarters. % 702-729-2515. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. selling souvenirs and literature. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. including the old mill. Ichthyosaurs. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. or fish lizards. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. a bar and cemetery. The park is open all year. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago.
The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. Located in the relatively dry. The trail climbs nearly 2. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. The trail seems faint at times.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. June. to NV 884. deer. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. Return the way you came. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. Interpretive tours are held in March. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale.140 feet. turn right. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. through Gabbs. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. The hike begins on the road. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. To reach the park from Hawthorne. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. For more information. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. April. From here go seven miles to a junction. July.000 feet in 3½ miles. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. following a stream into Trail Canyon. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. October and November. elk. travel west six miles to NV 773. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. August. the highest point in Nevada at 13. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. From here. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. call % 702-867-3001. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. There are numerous access points to the 115. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. then half a mile east. where desert bighorn sheep. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. up through the sparse forest of . mountain lion. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes.
a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. pinyon pine and juniper. and at higher elevations. where it crosses the water several times. the trail gains 1. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. another narrow. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. The 38. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. About a mile and a half later. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. up and up alongside the South Twin River. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. The main trail leads straight ahead. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it.020-foot Peavine Peak. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. About 500 yards beyond the mill. The path descends further. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. too. . The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). Consult Toms Canyon.361-foot Arc Dome. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. USGS quads for Carvers NW. nine miles from the trailhead. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Pine Creek. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. limber pine.
A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow.000 years ago.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. The high point. south. then sharply northwest to the South Summit. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. From Tonopah. literally and figuratively. which marks the way to Pine Creek. deer and coyote. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley.949 feet above sea level. is imposing Mount Jefferson. In fact. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. Return the way you came. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. 11. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. which tops out at 11. Turn left and head toward the highest point. is lined with aspen and birch. going west. The summit trail. It was used as a hunting camp 5. After turning west. mountain lion. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. . In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson.
rugged country. Hikers should have maps and a compass. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. The main trail continues straight ahead. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. As you’ll see. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. climbing up the creek drainage. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah.000 acres. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. The 98. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. This is remote. with Dry Lake off to the west. and the skills to use them. so travel with care. From the trailhead. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. set aside in 1989. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose). following the signs for Cottonwood Creek.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory .856foot Monitor Peak. To complete a nice loop hike. The trail first splits at mile three. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. Elk. Head north 26 miles to Belmont.
Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. the route goes generally north and east to a junction. Also close by. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. % 702-4826286. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. some will lead hikes and photography trips. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. Meanwhile.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. Enjoy the views. then continue south two miles back to the campground. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. . Wilderness Press. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. White’s masterful book. 1997. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. crosses the water and begins a steep. then descending into Ash Canyon. in Echo Canyon State Park. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. refer to Michael C. Once atop the plateau. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas.
PO Box 1149. PO Box 162. turn left and head due south. 89430. Just beyond the right-of-way. PO Box 428. leaving a strenuous. Expeditions Unlimited. Box 77206. 8½ miles from US 95. 89045. Galvin. 89447. HCR 60. Howard. % 702-482-6258. 89049. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. climbing into a small valley. then continues south to a junction. 89317. The road turns east briefly.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. % 702-465-2598. . unmarked hike to the summit. Smith.. (If you pass Millers. Timberline Outfitters. Berg. PO Box 168. Round Mountain William A. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest.108 feet. Stahl. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. at 9. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. % 702-964-2145. 27 Smith Gage Road. PO Box 65. which. Moapa Adam R. % 702-463-4497. Timberline Outfitters. 89049. PO Box 725. James S. Mason Valley Guide Service. Yerington Marty S. Grand Slam Safaris. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. Roy Lerg. % 702-482-6422. Lund Gary Luisetti. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. Lewis. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. % 702-283-7797. % 702-964-1207. 89025. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Mustang Outfitters. you’ve gone too far. 89045. Jr. Nicholas Perchetti.
one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . For road conditions. Belmont saw most of the 2. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. is open for business on weekends. Manhattan boomed.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes.000 to construct in 1876. A few dozen people still live in the area. % 702-482-6331. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. The Belmont Saloon. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. however. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. Continuing north. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. and Pine Creek. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. The other ruins are on private property.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. % 702377-2490. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. so keep your distance. known for abundant wildlife. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. with dredging continuing into the 1970s. Just north of Pine Creek. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. which was first settled in the 1860s. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874.
Continuing north. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. % 702-482-7800. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. Take an unpaved road . the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. Wilson National Back Country Byway. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. For more information contact the BLM. As tempting as a bath might seem. . stay out. From Pioche. then part of Utah Territory. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. to establish missions. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely.2 mile west of Lockes going south. but check on road conditions before you go. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. the fauna changes to ponderosa. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. Mormon settlers were sent to this region.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road). mountain mahogany and aspen. Pioneer Territory Mt. Not only is the water very hot. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. The springs are half a mile away. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months.
where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. Brookies and cutthroat also abound.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. 13. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch.140-foot Boundary Peak. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. At Oakridge Landing. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. cutthroat and rainbow trout. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. The road follows the creek west into the mountains. % 702289-4865. Just a mile north of Dyer. brown. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. % 702727-4504. Two of the best spots are Peavine . Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. 5340 South Oakridge Road. Information Sources For more information and a map. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. % 702-727-8276. contact the BLM.
huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880.000 acres. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons. Covering 37. % 702-482-6286. October and November. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. Fishing derbies are held in February. picnic facilities and boat ramp. April. After the road peters out. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. The lake is named for Joe Walker.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. About 70 miles north of Tonopah.4 miles). by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground.7 miles north of Hawthorne). Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. In fact. . Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). rainbow and brown trout.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. however. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range.
Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides. but motors are prohibited. Kathleen L. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. which are stocked in spring and fall. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. largemouth bass and white crappie. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Howe. Brown trout. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. % 760-872-2533 . about 13 miles south of the confluence. % 702-725-3417. for details. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. NV 89415. write the group at PO Box 867. % 702-394-4040. Contact the refuge office. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. are the main attraction here. while Canada geese. 633 Schley Street. CA. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot.000 acres. Classic Anglers. Bishop. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Boaters are welcome. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. Hawthorne. 93514. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests.
% 800-GEDDYHO TE L . James S. home on the range. Box 77206. % 702-482-6258. 89045. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Mustang Outfitters. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Howard. 89049. % 702-3721717. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. Stahl. 89447. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. 89049. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. The big enchilada is Saddle West. Jr.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. 1220 South Highway 160. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. Mason Valley Guide Service. HCR 60. Tonopah Stanley R. PO Box 725. Berg. at least temporarily. PO Box 1149. Nicholas Perchetti. % 702-482-6422. The family-style outings. Suite 9B. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. Galvin. Timberline Outfitters. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. 89104. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. Advance reservations are highly suggested. Timberline Outfitters. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. % 702-964-1207. % 702-964-2145. 89045. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West.. PO Box 65. PO Box 168. % 702-889-8844.
and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. lounge. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. In short. $-$$. % 702553-2912. % 702-553-2225. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. 1201 South Highway 160. $-$$. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. % 702-727-5445. has 32 rooms.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. $-$$. With 110 rooms. along with a pool and honeymoon room. $-$$. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. a convenience store. was built in 1905. 9000 North 5th Avenue. % 702-553-2333. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. casino and lounge. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. though. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. $-$$. The Exchange Club Motel. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. 420 West Main Street. . while the inn offers laundry services. There are 60 rooms. The other two motels are the El Portal. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. a restaurant. a casino with live 21. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. $-$$. % 800-508-9493. $-$$. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. hair salon. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. % 702-553-2250. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. US 95 at First Street. % 702-4853431. which has 30 rooms and a pool. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. including a heated pool. 604 Main Street. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. Highway 160 at Loop Road. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. Don’t worry. $-$$. % 702-727-5100. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. A lounge with live entertainment. non-smoking rooms and a pool. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. $. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. $. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South.
% 702-482-3511. workout equipment. has been catering to travelers since 1943. Even dogs are welcome. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. 1 Cliff House Road. lounge with entertainment. location. $. $. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. There are 103 rooms. 540 F Street. Adjacent to Walker Lake. a restaurant and bar. $. and the 33-room Clown Motel. 521 North Main Street. $. % 702-482-6224. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. The Best Western Desert Lodge. free movies and is close to the convention center. % 702-482-6291. This place has it all: 75 rooms. arcade and laundry. Dating back to 1908. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. a casino. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. % 702-482-9777. 255 Main Street. with 40 rooms. has 39 rooms. It has 94 rooms. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. $$. restaurants. 1301 5th Street. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. % 702-482-3577. 1100 Main Street. $. 100 North Main Street.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. 700 Main Street. also has a pool. pool and free in-room coffee. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. % 702-945-2444. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. $-$$. If you’re into chains. 826 Main Street. $. The Jim Butler Motel. $. $$. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. Just a block away. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. a casino. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. The . 1402 5th Street. a Jacuzzi and a pool. which has 93 rooms. at very reasonable rates. with a restaurant. Location. Some of the larger. % 702-945-3352. including four two-bedroom units. and the sprawling Station House. RV parking and free continental breakfast. 323 Main Street. % 702-945-3321. % 702482-5920. a heated pool and a small play area. comes highly rated. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. the Butler has 25 rooms. $. % 702-482-6202. % 702-945-2660. the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. a restaurant and free coffee. $. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. two restaurants. lounge. RV hookups. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. % 702-482-6238. 100 South Main Street.
the Hawthorne. % 800-896-4567. which has 14 rooms. airport shuttle. Jacuzzi. a pool and a hot tub. % 800-346-7721. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. pool. % 702-465-2573. bars. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. $$-$$$. $-$$$. pool. 2827 Highway 208. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. $. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. 11 North Main Street. $$. a golf course. $-$$. $$-$$$. $$-$$$. $. $. pool and spa. family fun center and an airport shuttle. various restaurants. % 800-621-0187. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. To find a quieter environment. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. % 702-346-7444. a pool. on the corner of 5th and J streets. Run by the Masini family. 39 North Center Street. has five rooms. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. golf course. pool and movie theater. a lounge. % 702-945-3316. RV park and four bungalows. with blueprints for hundreds more. 301 Mesa Boulevard. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. % 702-463-2991. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. 390 North Sandhill Road. which at last count had 1. which has 14 rooms. formerly Players Island. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. $-$$. The Casa Blanca. . fitness center and live music. 694 Sierra Highway. a 925-seat showroom.900 or so residents. has 700 rooms. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. movie theater and kids’ play area. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. Jacuzzi. a pair of family-style restaurants. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. % 800-346-4611.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. and the Rocket. Jacuzzi. tennis courts. 720 Sierra Highway. entertainment. which has two non-smoking rooms. including dozens of suites. bowling alley. $$. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. % 702-463-2998. % 702-465-2959.103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. % 702-945-2143. % 702-945-2544.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. $$. with a 24-hour casino. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Just west of Smith in Wellington. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. 965 Sierra Highway. has 67 rooms. $-$$. % 702-945-2573. $-$$. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. $. live entertainment. restaurants. % 702-465-2341. % 702-463-2481.
% 702-727-0909. 100 LaCour Street. % 702-962-5551. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. Besides. . % 702-727-7300. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. a restaurant and bar. $. $. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. % 702-726-3291. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. $-$$. $. Flying saucer parking is out back. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. Stagestop Casino. which has 22 rooms. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. and the buffet starts at $2.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. which has five rooms. % 702726-3777. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. Rose Garden. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. 1220 South Highway 160. $-$$. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel.99. At Saddle West Casino. % 702-726-3106. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. and welcomes pets. also have full-service restaurants. % 702-727-2404. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. 100 West Stagecoach Road. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. 601 South Highway 160. is open 24 hours a day. % 702-727-7777. has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. % 702-751-7777. has 13 rooms. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. the Silver Spur. 884 A Street. % 702-729-2515. pharmacy and bank. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. % 702-9625404. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. 450 Front Street. No fast food. $. % 702-727-6440.
% 702-463-2481. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. Traditional American and Continental fare. % 702-945-2727. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. % 800508-9493.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. 785 E Street. 923 5th Street. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. % 702-945-5253. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. has a great $7. The Station House. is the home of two restaurants. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. 1100 Main Street. also has a 24-hour café. % 702-482-6202. 1291 5th Street. Yerington Casino West. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. 540 F Street. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. % 702-5532225. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. fill the menu. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. also have family-style restaurants. 11 North Main Street. try Happy Buddha. % 702-9452994. The . open until 9 PM. % 702-553-2111. 348 North Main Street. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. % 702-945-3320. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. % 702-945-3908. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. 501 I Street. Maggies. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. % 702-945-1700. % 702482-9777. you could do worse than El Marques. % 702-553-2368. and Burro Inn. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. including excellent seafood. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. % 702-945-3321. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. The Exchange Club. 100 North Main Street. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. % 702-4823885. 570 E Street.
Carl’s Burgers. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. lunch and dinner.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. 11 North ALT 95. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. % 800-896-4567. satisfying and never-ending. Dini’s Luck Club. along with the usual buffet. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. 111 Highway 208. % 702-4633707. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. serves breakfast. % 702-463-2054. 2281 West Scales Way. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse. has a 24-hour coffee shop. Peavine Campground is set at 6. % 702463-2868. 702-726-3138. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. % 800-621-0187. Two blocks up. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. % 800-346-7721. % 702-4623300. % 702-727-2314. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. The Virgin River Hotel. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. % 702-7263194. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. There’s even an indoor workout facility. is like a blast from the 50s.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. which serves breakfast. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. The Mason Valley Country Club. To reach the campground from Tonopah. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. The Casa Blanca. 45 North Main Street.
For directions. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites.100foot level. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. offers sites for $11 per night. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. There are 11 sites set at 6. . through Belmont.800 feet in the Monitor Range. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7.700 feet. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. above. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. From Tonopah. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. The campground is another three miles away.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. the unpaved road goes south briefly. see On Foot. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. % 702-4826286. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. % 702-945-3373. providing access to fishing and hiking. To reach the campground from Tonopah. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. For information. To reach the campground from Tonopah. % 702-687-6100. contact the BLM. From here. There is no running water and no fee. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont.
Falcon Press Publishing. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches. American Automobile Association. 1997. 1996. 1993. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. Noonday Press. Henry Holt and Company. 1990. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. DeLorme. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. Falcon Press Publishing. Suggested Reading . 1995. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. David Communications. published by the State of Nevada. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. American Automobile Association. Frank Amato Publications. 1995. 1997. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. 1993. They are listed in alphabetical order. 1998. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. 1994. Basin and Range by John McPhee. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. Moon Publishing.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive.
.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. 1993. Falcon Press Publishing. Clark. La Siesta Press. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Bischoff. Roughing It by Mark Twain. Stolley. Maturi. American & Geographic World Publishing. Jr. 1997. 1997. 1992. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. The Globe Pequot Press. Legend and Description by David J. 1997. . Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. 1993. Gem Guides Book Company. 1995. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. Mojave Books. Falcon Press Publishing. Wilderness Press. 1969. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. White.
restaurants. 54-55. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 137 Candelaria. 125-128. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. hiking. biking. 115. 144 Beatty: accommodations. Ichthyosaur State Park. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. camping. 199. Pony Express territory. see also zoos. 123. 67-70. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. safety rules. 117-119.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 194. 85. Las Vegas. Pony Express territory. 10-12. Pony Express territory. 78 BLM. Las Vegas area. see water sports car rental. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 187-190. 192 Big Smoky Valley. camping. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. camping. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. 94-95. 142. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. 144 backpacking. 49. 164. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 200 Basque people. 181-182. 126. 154 animal life. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 132. special events. Las Vegas territory. specific towns airlines. 181-182 bighorn sheep. pictographs art galleries. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters. 43-44. 117-118. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. camping. 199-201. 163-164. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). Lovelock Indian Cave. Reno-Tahoe area. Reno-Tahoe area. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 117. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 182-183. 193 Aurora. accommodations. 103. 124 auto racing. 115-116 ballooning. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. Leonard Rock Shelter. 75-76. touring. 104. fishing. Pioneer territory. touring. 27 books. 29. 193-197. 144. 169. 129-130 bungee jumping. fishing. price scale. 194. 26-27 buses. 118. restaurants. 200 altitude sickness. restaurants. 113. 156160. 41-43. 186 Belmont. see transportation air tours. wild. 155 boating. 3135. camping. 15-16. hiking outfit- Index . events. biking. Mount Jefferson. accommodations. 197. 77. 179. 121. 152. 168-169. 118. 187-190. 144. 50-52. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 17.183. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 13-15. biking. restaurants. 8386. 174 canoeing. events. safety rules. Pioneer territory. 183-184. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 34-35 Boundary Peak. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. 15-16. see also camping. 120-123. 179. 27. transportation. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. horseback riding. 78. 36. 102. 86. see transportation Carson City. skydiving. hiking. 46. 2. 15-16 bird watching. touring. Reno-Tahoe area. 198. 42 burros. 152. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. 142. 182. Cottonwood Valley. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 28. 177 Angel Lake: camping. 17. 184. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 76. 91 Barley Creek. 35. 13. 92-96. 38. 131. touring. 10. see also petroglyphs. 89. 187-188 biking. 32. 132-133. Bonneville Salt Flats. 67 bowling. 198. 174-175 Austin. outfitters. wagon trips. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 135. Pioneer territory. 193. 185. 48-49. 119-120. festivals. Elko. 104-107. 169-170 Anasazi people. 146.
106. 170. 175 climate. 174-175. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 18-19 climbing. touring. 22. 4-5 Gardnerville. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 97. 87 Dayton. 155. 13-15. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. Pony Express territory. 37-41. 122-123. 139 cruises. 153 Chimney Springs. special events. 79. 108 events: Cowboy country. Pyramid Lake Fishway. touring. Reno-Tahoe area. 152-155. Treasure City. 180 Earth Connections. 119. 83. Metropolis. 120. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 119. camping. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. Las Vegas area. 116-117. 143. Pioneer territory. 176. 157-158. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. John C. outfitters. 167. 185. touring. Lehman Caves. 118. Cowboy country. 78 casinos. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 131. 138-139. sport-climbing ratings. 109. 143-144. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 168. 44-48. Gold Center. 46 Comstock Lode. 137. 120-121. 77. 142. Hamilton. camping. 170. transportation. 12. Camp Winfield Scott. Samuel. Rhyolite. 125. 152. Las Vegas area. 109 Glacier Trail. 17. 134-135. Candelaria. 100. 15-16 Fremont. 121-122. 98 fossils. 179. fishing. 117. 14 Colorado River. 192. 172 golf.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. Jungo. Reno-Tahoe territory. 137. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. 15-16. 70-71. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 75. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. camping. camping. events. touring. 187-190. 161-162. Lovelock Indian Cave. 177. Toquima Cave. outfitters. 6-7 ters. pupfish. 188-189 Clemens. 185. 200 Cowboy Country. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. Shermantown. Pioneer territory. 179. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 112. 170-171 Denio Junction.. 125. 65 gambling. 160 Goshute Mountains. auto racing. 139140 Ely. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 182. touring. accommodations. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 179. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. mercury warnings. 150-151. Rochester Mining District. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 147-148 Eberhardt. 35-36. Lake Tahoe area. hiking. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 95 Gerlach: accommodations. restaurants. 121. 169. 171. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. fishing. 110. 112 Genoa. accommodations. 112. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 126. 102-104. accommodations. camping. 106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 125. Northumberland Cave. 119-120. 190 . 174. Dunn Hatchery. 176. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 70. 109. Midas. fishing. 82. 149-150. 106 diving. 126-127. 163-164. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. 43-44. 67. 142 Great Basin. skiing. 12. 4. 74. horseback riding. 80. Las Vegas territory. restaurants. 184. 40. 186 Cave Lake State Park. springfish. 186 elk. safety rules. 188-189 fishing. restaurants. 144. hiking. 137. camping. 124. biking. 74 Death Valley National Park. 75. 88. 179. see events fish. 171-172 Gold Point. Eberhardt. 109. 111. 177. 73. 139. 132-133. 115 Gold Center. 116. restaurants. 155-156. restaurants. 178. hiking outfitters. camping. 190-193. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. 89. fishing. 3. 127. camping. 194-195. 71 Cottonwood Creek.5 Cathedral Gorge. 86. 29. outfitters. hiking. outfitters. 98. 137.
181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. camping. hiking. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 90. 82. 70 Humboldt National Forest. camping. touring and transportation. 159. touring. 148-149 Humboldt River. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. accommodations. camping. events. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 39 history: Cowboy country. restaurants. air tours. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. 91 information sources. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. 130. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 60. 64. 62. Pioneer territory. 99-100. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. 90 helicopter tours. 46. restaurants. 4WD trail. 88. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. 153. Midas Hot Spring. 41. 83. camping. hiking. 55. 41-43. 13-15. 53-54. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. touring. 3536. 1. Pony Express territory. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 176. 148-149 jeep tours. state. 79. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. see air tours Hemenway Park. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 52-53. transportation. 103 Hamilton. 43. 186-187. 29-31. 77. balloning and soaring. 78-79 Jungo. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. 101. 151. RenoTahoe territory. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 119 Index . 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. Pioneer territory. 149. horseback riding. 23-29. Walley’s Hot Springs. 179 Kingston. 162. 195-196. hiking outfitters. outfitters. 192. watersports.Index Great Basin National Park. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 37-41. touring. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. transportation. 48-49. 110-112. water sports. restaurants. 93. restaurants. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 40-41. camping. 177 mercury warnings. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. special events. 125. 141-142. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. 166. 98. 44 Las Vegas territory. 57-58. 32-33. 24. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. 80-81 hiking. 46. Reno. 150. 21-22. boating outfitters. 162. Pony Express territory. skiing. 49-50. 146. fishing. 163. outfitters. 66. 46. snow sports outfitters. fishing. 127. hiking outfitters. map. 118 Lone Mountain. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. 165-167. Las Vegas territory. 91-92. 47. events. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 156. 20. 149-150. 111. description of. 164. Pioneer territory. 129-131. 152. 132 Lexington Arch. Reno-Tahoe territory. biking. camping. hiking. Pony Express territory. 116-117. 102. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. outfitters. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. Cowboy country. 198. 45. 187 Manhattan. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. 193. 118. 200-201. 48. 150. 188-189. touring. touring. 40. 160. 57. 37-40. 32 horseback riding. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. 75. 32-33 Lake Mohave. 112-117. 31-35. 181-187. 107. 106. restaurants. 47 lakes. 83. Reno-Tahoe territory. Nevada. hiking. 50-52. 82. 36. 137 kayaking. 63-66. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 140-141 land. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. touring. 117 hotels. transportation. Las Vegas territory. Kyle Hot Spring. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 158. 64. biking. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. skiing. 39. 38. touring. 65. 28. 86. 54. 145-150. Las Vegas area. 78. camping. 120 Incline Village. camping. 83-84. restaurants. Las Vegas.
184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 2. 200. The Way It Was Museum. 199-200. 134 petroglyphs. National Automobile Museum. 189-190 Muir. 61. 32. 25. restaurants. 188. 102. see accommodations motorcycles. 174. 178. 73. 177. 86. The Castle. Marzen House Museum. Marshall Mint Museum. 25. 72-73. 73. 106 nuclear testing. 196197. touring. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 98. touring. 68. Brewery Arts Center. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 10. John. 165 nuclear waste. camping. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. 171. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. Northeastern Nevada Museum. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 199 Metropolis. 167-168 Paiutes. Virginia & Truckee Depot. 67. 26. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. fishing. Las Vegas Art Museum. 174. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. 187 Mojave Desert. 173. 70-71 mines and mining. Lyon County Muserum. May Museum and Arboretum. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. Guinness World of Records Museum. 173. 35. 153 Northumberland Cave. 34. 29. 173. 23 Overton: touring. Mark Twain Museum. Northern Nevada Railway Museum. Roberts House Museum. Central Nevada Museum. 158.206 n Index seum. 177. Clark County Heritage Museum. Nevada State Library & Archives. 183. 11 Mosquito Creek. 68. 142. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. 177. 181 Moapa. restaurants. 34. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 79. 70. 71. 69. Capitol Building and Museum. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. fishing. hiking. Nevada State Railroad Museum. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 200 motels. 103. see biking mountain biking. 109-110. 43. touring. see biking Mount Charleston. 91. hiking outfitters. 61 music and theater. 78. 69. 73. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 25-26. 61. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 199. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. outfitters. 2. Western Folklife Center. Keck Minerals Museum. 26. 73. 83. 135. skiing and snowboarding. Liberace Museum. horseback riding. fishing. 171. 197-198. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 8. Wilbur D. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. 107. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 61. 109. 34. Humbolt Museum. White Pine Public Museum. 113 Mount Rose: camping. Desert Valley Museum. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 3-4. 165. Genoa Courthouse Museum. 180 Minden: events. 175. Colorado River Museum. Nevada State Mu- . 4. 153. camping. 77. 127 pictographs. 4. 25. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 108. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. Lost City Museum. 43. 72. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. Gold Well Open Air Museum. 133. 8182 Mesquite. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 25. 68. Stewart Indian Museum. 142 Midas. 126. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. 26. 61. 163. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 174. 170. 25. 193-194. 175. 139. 139. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 34. 107. Nevada Historical Society. 80-81 Native American festivals. accommodations. Mineral County Museum. 33. Piper’s Opera House. 71. 23. 75. 73. 31. 29 Mount Jefferson. 135136. 69. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. hiking. Fleischmann Planetarium. 26. 2. 69. 69. 71.
restaurants. 94 special events. 198. see events price codes. 12. special events. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 79-80. 36. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. 109 Shoshone people. 123-125. 173 Index . 167. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. touring. touring. 144. 106 Spooner Lake. 9 Sand Mountain. 156. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. see climbing springfish. transportation. 48-49 snowboarding. 76. 181. 90 soaring. 52 pupfish. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). see events Round House Art Gallery. water sports. fishing. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. fishing. Pony Express territory. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 150-151. 112. 82. 89. auto. 76. 165-201 plant life. camping. biking. 144. 113. 78. hiking. 17. biking. fishing. accommodations. 197. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. 180. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 93-94. Las Vegas area. 87. 66. hiking. 195. 80 pronghorn antelope. 85. Benjamin “Bugsy. 134. 13 Price Lakes. 163-164. accommodations. hiking and climbing. RenoTahoe area. touring. 90 sport climbing. 84-85 swimming.Index Pioche: accommodations. horse. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. fishing. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 179. 106 Siegel. 193. 54. 153 Sparks. 84. 129-130. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 74 races. 26-27. 92-93. Pioneer territory. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 138 rock climbing. outfitters. see skiing snowmobiling. 104. 144. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 197-199. 54. 163. 185 Ponderosa Ranch. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. 117. 9697. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 176 rodeos. snow sports outfitters. camping. skiing. 115. skiing. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. fishing. 200 temperature chart. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 65 Pony Express territory. 190. 193. Las Vegas territory. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 163. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 88. 114-115 theater. 17. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. camping. 59-61. 142. 88 Shermantown. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. 78. climbing and hiking. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. camping. 83-84. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 197 rafting. 79. 42. 96-97. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. restaurants. 143. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. 49-50. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 180 Pioneer territory. 53-54. motorcycle. see mines and mining skiing. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. 169 Pyramid Lake. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. 154. 89-91 skydiving. 160-163. 77-78. camping. 187. 77. 143 Rachel. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). 170 rivers. touring. Reno-Tahoe area. see climbing rock hunting. biking. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. 146-147. 186-187. 146. 91. 185-186. 17. 179 Searchlight. 98. 76.” 4 silver. 9-10. 17. restaurants. hiking. bike. hiking. 98. 145-146 prostitution. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs.
Hemenway Park. 111. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 168 zoos. 80-81. 156-157. 193. hiking outfitters. 139. Earth Connections. 143. 182-183. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. camping. 83. Pony Express territory. Jack’s Valley Road. 31. 33. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. 199. camping.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. restaurants. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. camping. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. 176. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 155. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. Ruby Mountains. events. 150. 106 trains. hiking. 44-48. 150. Walker Lake. 176 wineries. 39 vineyards. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 134 Twain. 62. 139-140 Treasure City. fishing. touring. buses. 185. 159-160. 168-169. restaurants. see plant life tufas. 200-201. hiking. 119-120. 85. 152-155. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. horseback riding. 62. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 29. Wilson Canyon. Pioneer territory. restaurants. 190-193. 62. 41. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. 32. 188-189. 55. 159. 142 Wendover: accommodations. Pioneer territory. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 127. 164. 172. 162. 163. 192. 196. 71. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 144. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. outfitters. 77-78. touring. Winnemucca. water sports. Ely Elk Viewing Area. 187. Ruby Marsh. 177. 71-74 Virgin River. 149. 31. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. 146. 155. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 79-80. 151 Wovoka. 68. 176 Yerington: accommodations. climbing and hiking. 117 Toquima Cave. 29-30. 193 Walker Lake. Lake Mead. Cleve Creek Campground. 20. 179. 143. Las Vegas territory. 160-161. 34-35. wildlife and bird watching. 135-137. 127. 151 Wilson Canyon. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. 45. hiking. outfitters. 75. Amtrak. 144. restaurants. touring. hiking outfitters. 89. 26-27. 30-31. 191 UFOs. 191-192. Reno-Tahoe territory. 183-184. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. Arc Dome Wilderness. Table Mountain Wilderness. Goshute Mountains. 174 walking. events. 167. rental cars. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 157. 109 trees. camping. High Rock Canyon. 73. special events. touring. 155 . 178. 145-146. 35. 80. 97. 86 Wells: accommodations. 112. Mark. 104. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. events. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 76. 163-164. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. camping. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. outfitters. touring. 110. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 98. 174. 102. Echo Canyon State Park. fishing. see transportation transportation: airports. 153-154. 38. camping. 61. 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. 147-148. 95. 25 Topaz Lake. 66. restaurants. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 117. 67. touring. Santa Rosa Mountains.
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