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HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343, fax (732) 417 0482 1220 Nicholson Rd., Newmarket, Ontario, Canada L3Y 7V1, (800) 399 6858 The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-237-8 ©2009 Matt Purdue Maps by Kim André, ©2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Photo credits: 6, 16, 28, 45, 72, 92, 111, 172 (Nevada Tourism); 7 (Tahoe Photo); 65, 83, 84 (Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority) ; 8, 11, 27, 29 (Michelle Joiner); 21, 103, 105, 108, 133, 136 (Matt Purdue). Drawings by Donna M. Blackburn Cover: Horses Running Wild Through Nevada Desert (Inga Spence, Index Stock Photography) For complete information about the hundreds of other travel guides offered by Hunter Publishing, visit our Web site at: www.hunterpublishing.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential problems caused by information in this guide, even if such errors or omissions are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause. 4 3 2 1
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed possible. Let’s get lost.
About the Author
Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Contents Introduction History Nevada Today The Land Plant Life Animal Life How To Use This Book Adventures On Foot On Wheels On Water On Snow In The Air Climate Information Sources Las Vegas Territory Touring Las Vegas Museums & Culture Natural Wonders Henderson/Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead National Recreation Area Valley of Fire State Park Searchlight/Laughlin Special Events Adventures On Foot Red Rock Canyon The Spring Mountains Valley of Fire State Park The Historic Railroad Trail The Newberry Mountains On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge On Water Las Vegas Lake Mead The Overton Arm of the Virgin River 1 1 5 6 8 10 11 13 13 15 17 17 17 18 18 21 23 23 23 26 31 32 32 33 34 35 37 37 37 38 39 39 40 42 42 43 44 44 44 45 .
vi n Contents The Colorado River Lake Mojave In The Air On Snow Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Las Vegas Laughlin Restaurants Las Vegas Laughlin Camping Reno-Tahoe Territory Touring Reno Lake Tahoe South of Reno South of Carson City East of Carson City North of Reno Special Events Adventures On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike The Mount Rose Trail Tahoe Basin Trails Reno Washoe Valley Virginia City High Rock Canyon Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area On Horseback On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe Reno Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Carson City On Water Lake Tahoe East Fork Carson River Spooner Lake Reno Washoe Lake State Park Gardnerville The East Fork Carson River Squaw Creek Reservoir 46 46 48 49 50 50 50 52 53 53 54 54 57 59 59 63 66 70 71 74 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 83 83 83 84 84 85 86 86 86 86 87 87 87 88 88 .
Contents n vii Wall Canyon Reservoir Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge On Snow Mount Rose Diamond Peak Cross-Country Center Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Heavenly Other Winter Sports In The Air Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Stateline Incline Village Crystal Bay Reno Sparks Carson City Gardnerville Genoa Virginia City Gerlach Denio Junction Restaurants Stateline Reno Carson City Virginia City Camping Pony Express Territory Touring Fallon Austin Eureka Ghost Towns Ely Great Basin National Park Adventures On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail Mount Moriah Wilderness Wheeler Peak Trail The Alpine Lakes Trial Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Baker Lake Trail 88 88 89 89 90 90 90 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 93 94 94 95 95 95 95 96 96 96 96 97 97 98 99 100 102 104 107 109 109 110 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 .
viii n Contents On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex Sand Mountain Austin Lexington Arch On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area Austin Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Baker Restaurants Fallon Austin Eureka Ely Camping Cowboy Country Touring Lovelock Rye Patch Reservoir Unionville Winnemucca Ghost Towns Paradise Valley Elko Lamoille/Ruby Mountains Jarbidge Wells Wendover Special Events Adventures On Foot Star Peak The Santa Rosa Mountains The Ruby Mountains The East Humboldt Range The Humboldt NF Jarbidge District On Horseback On Wheels Fossil & Rock Hunting Winnemucca Wildlife Watching 117 117 117 117 118 119 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 123 123 124 124 125 125 125 129 132 134 134 134 135 137 138 138 140 141 142 142 143 145 145 145 145 146 147 148 150 150 150 151 .
Contents n ix
Midas Hot Spring Kyle Hot Spring Elko Biking On Water Rye Patch State Recreation Area Chimney Dam Reservoir North Fork Little Humboldt River South Fork Reservoir Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail Angel Lake Wild Horse Reservoir Blue Lakes On Snow Elko SnoBowl Where To Stay & Eat Accommodations Lovelock Unionville Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Paradise Valley Jarbidge Wells Wendover Restaurants Lovelock Winnemucca Elko Lamoille Jarbidge Wells Wendover Camping Pioneer Territory Touring Pahrump Ash Meadows Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Overton
151 152 152 152 152 153 153 153 153 154 154 155 155 155 155 156 156 156 156 157 157 158 158 159 159 159 160 160 160 161 162 162 162 163 163 165 167 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 175 177
Mesquite Caliente State Parks Near Caliente Pioche The Extraterrestrial Highway Adventures On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Boundary Peak Arc Dome Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness Cathedral Gorge State Park Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks On Wheels Lone Mountain Big Smoky Valley Chimney Springs Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Esmeralda County Peavine Creek & Twin River Walker Lake Lake Mead Upper Pahranagat Lake On Horseback Where to Stay & Eat Accommodations Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Goldfield Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington Mesquite Caliente Pioche Rachel Restaurants Pahrump Amargosa Valley Beatty Tonopah Hawthorne Yerington
177 178 179 180 180 181 181 181 182 182 183 185 186 186 187 187 188 188 189 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 197 197 198 198 198 198 198
Maps n xi
Mesquite Caliente Camping Suggested Reading Index
199 199 199 201 203
Nevada Las Vegas Territory Las Vegas Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Lake Tahoe Region Pony Express Territory Cowboy Country Pioneer Territory xii 20 24 56 60 64 101 128 166
the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out into the Great Basin. woolly and naturally amazing state almost to yourself. Much of that Great Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. the incessant plink-plinkplink of the slot machines. that’s good news. the population density is still only nine folks per square mile. pausing on . you can have the whole wild. Once you get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights. second lowest in the nation behind Alaska. which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to do. come for one thing only: Las Vegas. Vegas recently surpassed Orlando. giant sloths.500 and 10. Nevada’s booming popularity – it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and Reno/Tahoe. bison. as the top tourism destination in the US. About 27 million of them. more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the poor man’s Alaska. half-pound hot dogs. Florida. Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population. These mammoths. which covers most of Nevada. plastic volcano and campy lounge acts. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years. For anyone who loves the outdoors. horses.Introduction Introduction History The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year. In fact. mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they roamed the grasslands. by 1825 only two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and the interior of the Great Basin.” and for good reason. In fact. however. According to author John Hart. But the Nevada encountered by the native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7. Among the 50 states. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx. you’ll know better.000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today. Fremont and ol’ Kit Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s.
the Anasazi (which comes from the Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the Southwest. A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. These peoples built permanent adobe structures called pueblos. correspond to the geologic remains of prehistoric lakes. The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. the first European entered Nevada. Scientists cite reasons ranging from depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. traveled through the southern tip of Nevada. however. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would encounter the first “illegal aliens. followed in Garces’ footsteps. One of their restored pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton. followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people beginning about 300 BC. crafted fine pottery and developed a sophisticated culture. they mysteriously scattered and disappeared from the landscape. the latter occupying the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra Nevadas. points. padre Francisco Garces and two Native American guides. and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. The Southern Paiutes hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. established trade routes. fish hooks. wetlands and springs.2 n Introduction the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink. then returned east and became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City. who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo. His party wintered in California.” While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s east coast. In the south. Exactly 50 years later. The rocks of Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs (symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Many prime archeological sites. hand tools. The Northern Paiutes. shells. In the 12th century. In 1776. searching for a direct route between New Spain strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey. Fine examples of their artifacts have been found in Lovelock Cave. like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon. the Archaic Indians began hunting and gathering about 2500 BC. . Today many of the state’s museums display evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets. including southern Nevada. Jedediah Smith. working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. By about 500 AD.
but abandoned it two years later. then returned east along the route the next year. entered Nevada (which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt River. launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861. was dispatched to map the area. DC. dominated by the church. continued to oversee Nevada. Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the north. crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert. the church established the State of Deseret. His group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. but the Utah Territory government. with Brigham Young as governor. John C. another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. Eight years later the first wagon train. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and settled in for two years of calm before the storm. The Comstock Lode. gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855. By 1857. With westward emigration becoming all the rage. the Mormons were the first white residents. The idea didn’t fly in Washington. In 1833. 1864. Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee). In 1849. swelling the population well into five figures. and headed over the Sierras. and. In 1859. Fremont. the Bidwell Bartelson Party. As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country.History n 3 In the north. In 1843 and ’44. which helped open the gateway to the West. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada. Introduction . covering most of Utah and Nevada. In 1845. turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history and literally put the Silver State on the map. who would later become a war hero. A year later he returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at Humboldt Sink. In 1830. tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called home from Nevada. naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake Tahoe. Thousands of miners poured into the Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east. encountering Pyramid Lake. camping at Las Vegas. as it came to be called. Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous cartography. Indian fighter and presidential candidate. with the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort. Nevada became a state on Halloween.
Ironically. however. was struck in Virginia City. the first true hotel-casino. Streets were laid out. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas.000 people in 1960. signed a treaty with the federal government. Howard Hughes sud- . killed two-thirds of them. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around. In 1855. A militia of 105 volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp. commerce and industry. then picked up again in the early 1900s. But the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall. violence escalated. upscale Vegas. Then in 1966. opened in 1950. The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century. A force of more than 750 white troops and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes. Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to 65. industry arrived and Vegas was on its way. Winnemucca. Reno and the surrounding areas.4 n Introduction As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional Native American land. In the teens and ’20s. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history – produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City. particularly in southern Nevada. the Big Bonanza. was of a classy. the mother of all lodes. Carson City. More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground. the mushroom clouds became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age. In 1874. Meanwhile. Siegel’s vision. winding up murdered in Los Angeles later that year. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established. then underground tests for 30 more. Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. bringing town sites. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all: gambling was legalized. the Flamingo soon reopened. ending the brief Pyramid Lake War. but territory-hungry pioneers paid little attention. automobiles came into fashion and highways began to stripe the state. railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada. son of Winnemucca. simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. where a tiny rest stop called Las Vegas was established in 1905. In 1860. chief of the Northern Paiutes. but was ambushed. later known as the Nevada Test Site. In 1873. which he almost realized in 1947 when he borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo. Warriors under Numaga. The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. began making money and the boom was on. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years. the building of Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon.
Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s economy. and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington. working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure. Introduction Nevada Today Through the 1980s and ’90s. Fallon and Mesquite. a land dominated by a mobile population. DC.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little action. who through one agency or another control 85% of Nevada land. however. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley. he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate. Even the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago. By 1970. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers. Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of casinos. trappers. moving to the region in record numbers. Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills of the post-modern West. spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today. fight off a proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild outdoors. are reaping the windfall. Winnemucca. and Americans have become moths to the flame. more than in any other state? Today the battle is just beginning. Mom and their 2. Reno and the Carson Valley are seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban development. But the explosion has not been without fallout. . farmers – who have controlled Nevada since the beginning. The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. the new casinos have billed themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad. Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the non-existent Nevada rain. This time. How much is too much. today there are master-planned communities. a service-oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism or servicerelated fields) and a constant debate over development. find enough water. places like Elko. To many. 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus on every corner. miners. The entire West will be watching what transpires.Nevada Today n 5 denly began buying casinos.
the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. The Great Basin stretches into western Utah. with nine ranges topping 11. the Reese runs through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in extreme northeastern Nevada. But Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers. Nevada even has its own 10.” The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. The roof of Nevada is 13.000 feet in the space of a few miles. down a range.” ancient dry lake beds where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. Two of Nevada’s longest rivers. On the other side of the state. reservoirs and other watery bodies. the Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas. Wheeler Peak. In the north. southeastern Oregon and southwestern California. Depending on who’s counting. Here.6 n Introduction The Land No matter who you ask. one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers.839foot Matterhorn.145-foot Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. across a sagebrush-covered basin. 13. The Colorado River . then up another range. Named by explorer John C. Near Las Vegas. much of the Great Basin is broken up into basins and ranges. and so on. sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. dry. This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. then disappear into their respective “sinks. there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks. the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. In fact. towers over Great Basin National Park. the Spring Mountains soar from 2. the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. Yes.063 feet. Fremont in 1844. the Carson and the Humboldt.000 feet. gurgle through the northern part of the state.000 feet to nearly 12. Nevada is Spanish for “snowcapped. this is the driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. but no state lays claim to it like Nevada. An east-to-west drive across the belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range. The notion of Nevada as a flat. Get the idea? After all. down another range. lakes. hills and uplands.
000 acres. natural sources of running water. stunning red and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky. in the remote north near Jarbidge. When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964. But that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985. are part of the vast Mojave Desert. In 1989. the southeastern corner of Nevada.000 years ago covered 8. pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. This is the desolate land of Hollywood cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees. Meadow Valley Wash and the Virgin River. the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in 111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as Introduction . only 65. miners and off-road vehicle enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order by livestock and machinery. which empty into Lake Mead from the north.500 square miles of western Nevada. establishing 77. most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last vestiges of Lake Lahontan. most notably Lake Tahoe. yucca-covered flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. For the greens. the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere. the government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730. Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed.000-acre Great Basin National Park. and included provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness. Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno. It seems many recent victories have come with a costly compromise. the BLM has lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers. In the 1970s. the largest alpine lake in North America. a great inland sea that 50. The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public wilderness. it’s an uphill climb all the way.The Land n 7 forms the southeast border of the state.000 acres were set aside in Nevada. including Las Vegas and Laughlin. Not until 22 years later did the Feds add to the list. Lower and drier. considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. are the only reliable.
greasewood. At elevations above 6. and the fall ritual of collecting the pine nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. the soil supports . such as rabbitbrush. with its tiny.000 feet above sea level. This fragrant shrub has taken over since native grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. Between the valley floors and mountain ridges. Commonly found alongside sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions.8 n Introduction federal wilderness. it is difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic area. Plant Life With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and fauna. In the wetter western Nevada ranges. The squat Utah juniper. the two species of predominant trees are easy to identify. the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). finger-shaped needles and small blue berries. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are limitless. The recommendations have been under review for years. horsebrush and shadescale. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley. 14 national recreation areas.000 and 8. Apart from aspens. Mountain mahogany is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations. What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks. then whittled that down to less than two million acres.000 feet. The pinyon pine’s nuts were a staple of many Nevada Native Americans. 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest national park. Death Valley. is generally found throughout the state between 5. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine). Still. quaking aspens and their silver-dollarshaped leaves seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. particularly the Sierra Nevadas.
waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. In the mountains. the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that extend into the state. with more than 120 mammal species and 370 bird species. Other common shrubs include catclaw acacia. hallucinogenic sacred datura. however. biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin. The king of Great Basin vegetation.000 feet. supporting one of the most powerful players in North America’s food web. At the other extreme. Above the desert floor. which make up just 1% of the land. including white and red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine. The rare. Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched conditions. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park. Introduction Animal Life Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora. which is actually a type of yucca. waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx moth. stretches its arms into the sky above the Mojave. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing ani- . is usually found just below timberline on mountain ridges. creosote bush has an oily. up to 5. seem absent from Nevada almost entirely. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands in the seas of sagebrush and sand. support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. western white pine. blooms by night here. They may conserve energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years.000 years. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear markedly different: cholla. bristlecone pine. mountain hemlock and sugar pine.Animal Life n 9 many varieties of evergreens up to about 9. or jimson weed. The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada. and their seeds may lie dormant for that long before sprouting. willow and dogwood. ponderosa pine. along with alder. Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass. the mountain lion. Black bears. lodgepole pine. The Joshua tree. prickly pear. Washoe pine. hedgehog and barrel. the official state grass. Towering cottonwood trees are common in these rare riparian regions. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on Earth.
chuckwalla. can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat. among them the sidewinder and Western diamondback. Blacktail jackrabbits. both little and big brown bats are common just after sunset. bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently. Meanwhile. antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are also common. fox. horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence lizard. brown. help comes from hunters. the black widow and brown recluse. Gambel’s quail. the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive amid growing desert development. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the northwest. seen on Nevada’s license plates. The desert bighorn sheep. some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native species planted for sportfishing. redtailed hawk.10 n Introduction mals and loss of habitat. while mule deer are abundant. along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula. pika. golden and Dolly Varden . Other common flyers include the golden eagle. with Lahontan cutthroat. who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game animal. yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk. Ironically. greater roadrunner. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake. brook. kangaroo rats. The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests. prairie falcon. burrowing owl and canyon wren. In the air over the desert. including the rare and venomous banded Gila monster. It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest number of threatened and endangered fish species. Snakes include several types of rattlers. Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south. beaver. The Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles. Trout are the favorite of anglers. weasel. skunk. also live in the Mojave. coyote. badger. America’s two poisonous spiders. rainbow.
How To Use This Book n 11 found in creels throughout Nevada. on water. culture and most attractive features. in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno. chambers of commerce and state and federal land management agencies. This structure borrows from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and literature. Lodgings are given a price level symbol according to the follow- . It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. you’ll find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best sources for inside tips. It also assumes that you will start your adventures. Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. detailing the region’s main roads and transportation information. such as visitors bureaus. A section on Touring follows. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures section. Along with detailed information on where to go. on snow and in the air. like almost every other Nevada visitor. Introduction How To Use This Book This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory. covering its history. Rather than simply listing hotels and eateries. broken down by specific locales. on land. Reno-Tahoe Territory. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs. Touring is also a turn-by-turn guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights. After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure. This section also includes sources for expert information. Cowboy Country. Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with other sources. Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. and walleye can still be seen in part of the Humboldt River. wherever possible this section spotlights the unusual places to stay and eat in each region.
. . This suggests two simple rules: always use the most upto-date maps available and always contact local land management agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about trail conditions. . . . . $50 to $100 $$$ . . . . . . The climate and geography are such that humanpowered travelers can experience blazing heat and belowfreezing cold in one 12-hour period. Even when the trails are in sight of a glittering hotel-casino. . . . . Note that many hotels and inns change their rates seasonally. With trails that are often far apart and limits on government resources. It is best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready. .12 n Introduction ing chart. . so use these symbols only as a general reference. trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. . . . it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in the Silver State. The well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out. . . . . . . More than $175 Adventures n On Foot Walking. . . flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in Nevada’s backcountry. . rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. . . Hiking. $100 to $175 $$$$ . . . . Accommodations Price Scale $ . . . . Trails may be gone. forethought and patience. . . . . boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. Up to $50 per day $$ . . Finally. . . . Backpacking. . . Rock Climbing Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness. . . fire roads may be closed for off-road racing.
Introduction Sport-Climbing Ratings This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America. . but without the need for a belay (scrambling) Class 5 . The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following scale: n n n n n n Class 1 . although the rating is usually increased if the climb is a very long one. Class 2 . the most popular among serious rock climbers.0 to .0 to . so help is usually a long way away. For Class 5 routes. it can be also be extremely dangerous – even deadly. Just because a government agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. occasionally using hands Class 4 .Climbing. ranging from . The ratings are a subjective measurement of the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb. the lower numbers (.Aided climbing The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to themselves as well as to law enforcement and searchand-rescue teams to be as self-reliant as possible. as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be. using the hands.14 (and sometimes beyond). known as the Yosemite Decimal System.6) indicate that two handholds and two footholds are available for every move.Hiking with some altitude gain and loss Class 3 . there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada.Boulder hopping.Adventures n 13 Finally.Easy hiking. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. As this guide goes to press.Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing) Class 6 .
check in so you can be found if something goes wrong. dehydration and lightning. Always take fresh water with you. climbers enter the realm of myth.14 n Introduction There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase. use common sense before you get into trouble. Assistance can take hours or days. Pack spare everything – food. and braggadocio – usually over pints of ale. Cautions The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines: n n Take no chances. then amended by subsequent climbers. Storms are more common in the afternoon. and the weather when determining the safest course of action. legend. By their nature. first-aid supplies – in case you get stranded. n n n n n . In the arid country of Nevada. your clothes (including what type of track your boots make) and your vehicle. Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. Beyond that. clothing. one gallon per person per day is the minimum. Allow time to acclimate to altitude. Don’t travel alone. these ratings are meant only as guidelines. If the plan changes. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. not hard-and-fast rules. Be aware of conditions. Begin hiking early in the day. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia.10. As with all outdoor activities. until all holds disappear at . taking into account personal experience. Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or move. climbing partners. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations. Give them descriptions of yourself.
Carry an inflated spare tire or two. jack. knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the showroom floors. Introduction & The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps. Even during dry weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted. Always check with the local authorities listed in this guide for road and weather conditions. extra gas. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. but when they are wet they can be downright impassable. tools. Not one of those trendy. Arizona. preferably one with a large gas tank. four-wheel-drive vehicle. which lists these rules for safe desert travel: n Be prepared. racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. The non-profit Desert-Alpine Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County. . They can pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet. have published an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness. Many of the best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. The only way around this potential crisis is preparation. spare belts. high-clearance job. Preparing for Emergencies Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. water and fluids. but the constant companion of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme.Adventures n 15 n On Wheels Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged. but a powerful.
Do not ration water. however. is literally uncharted fat-tire country. when you left and where you are headed. which can be 30° warmer than the surrounding air. of course. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals walking in the wilderness. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers and drivers when heading out. contact DARES. A storm many miles away may send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas. AZ. PO Box 39340. . tips and maps to the latest hot single track. n If you have water. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help. n Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. left out of popular literature. leave a note telling searchers who you are. Phoenix. stay on it. Mountain biking in Nevada.16 n Introduction n If you become stranded. n If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle. The rest of Nevada. minimize talking and eating. This book isn’t big enough to list them all. is more popular than ever. For more information on desert survival. n If you find a traveled road. 85096. in wilderness areas). Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it is potentially dangerous. but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except. drink it as needed. The Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. stay put. especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up recently in Vegas can provide bikes. n If water is in limited supply. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol. n Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground.
Soaring Where there is Vegas. but take extra care. Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes. created when Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River. Ballooning. n On Snow Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing. Ballooning and soaring are both popular pur- . but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Meanwhile. lakes and reservoirs. and gigantic Lake Mead. lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops will provide updated information. Floating There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful. Snowmobiling Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams. Nevada’s well-known ski resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin. many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers. the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes. there are all types of sky-high adventures.Adventures n 17 n On Water Boating. Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada beaches: Lake Tahoe. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-touring companies and skydive operations. there are tourists. At these higher elevations. Check with local land managers for trail conditions. TAKE CARE Introduction Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome. And where there are tourists. snowshoers and snowmobilers when the weather turns cold. blue watering hole after hours of driving through a sagebrush desert. Many streams. bringing high winds and unsafe conditions. the gem of the Sierras. Fishing. n In The Air Scenic Flights. Skydiving.
on the Colorado River. In the Great Basin. get out of lowlying areas. In the Mojave Desert of southern Nevada. lightning is a deadly threat on the mountains. recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. temperatures above 110° are common. Nevada Temperatures (max/min °F) Location Elko Ely Hawthorne Lake Tahoe Las Vegas Laughlin Reno Tonopah January 36/10 38/9 48/22 41/24 57/31 42/41 44/19 40/20 April 59/28 57/27 68/36 54/30 79/50 84/56 64/31 62/36 July 91/49 86/48 95/49 82/49 105/73 109/80 90/49 89/59 October 66/28 64/29 73/44 62/37 82/52 89/60 70/32 78/40 Climate The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape. summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above. TAKE CARE Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. If thunderstorms threaten. Leave the high altitudes as well.18 n Introduction suits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. but there are a few general trends to expect in the state. . For those who like to watch. Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south. Reno holds both balloon and powered flight races every year. Flashfloods are the predictable result. Laughlin. but despite the obvious danger. throwing rain. Summer and early fall can be blistering. hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours. although they can occur at any time of year. some people are trapped or swept away by rising water every year. These storms are known to appear with little warning.
% 702234-7331. rainy and occasionally snowy. too. % 702-785-6500. Ogden. 1100 Valley Road. Bureau of Land Management. % 702-687-4219. winds gusting upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures plunging into the 20s. Great Basin National Park. 1300 South Curry Street. Introduction Information Sources The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel information. Nevada Division of State Parks. NV 89710. snow comes in buckets at higher elevations and can stay for months. % 801-625-5182. Intermountain Region. www. . The ranges are sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. For information on specific locales. NV 89712. Reno. Carson City.travelnevada.com. In southern Nevada. Baker. UT. winter temps sometimes drop below zero. Nevada Division of Wildlife. see the listings that accompany each chapter.Climate n 19 The weather has extreme potential in winter. % 800-NEVADA-8. 84401. % 702-688-1500. In the mountains. Reno. In extreme northern and eastern parts of the state. windy. NV 89703. Carson City. Capitol Complex. NV 89311. basin winters can be chilly. 1263 South Stewart Street. 850 Harvard Way. US Forest Service. % 702-687-4384. Carson City. 324 25th Street. In the north. Nevada Department of Transportation. Nevada Commission on Tourism. with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. NV 89520. NV 89502.
lounge shows – and recently.000-year-old petroglyphs. and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1. as if quietly biding its time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out pieces of the Mojave Desert. the vast majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money. the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure. . It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and its ancient sand dunes.000-foot peak. closer. cheap food. or landing your boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you. Inside the city limits. the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks. Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of steel and glass. or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks. try hiking to an 11.” But step outside the hotel-casinos. in plain view of the casinos. Within an hour’s drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-heartbeat desolation. and Las Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. both prehistoric and otherwise. the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past. off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city. the University of Nevada Las Vegas offers a treasure trove of Las Vegas Territory Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. For performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum. southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits draped in crimson on the outskirts.Las Vegas Territory Nowhere else on the planet is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways. the inviting waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead.
Las Vegas Territory
drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.
While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.
From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost overnight. Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado River.
Las Vegas Territory
n Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada, Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855. They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later. Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid, abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-486-3511, is the oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free. Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The
Las Vegas Territory
museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12. Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, % 702-482-3445. With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12. On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, % 702-4864205, a must for anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.
Las Vegas Territory
The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes down.
The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, % 702647-3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM. Admission is free. Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, % 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small, endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, % 702-228-1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library. South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, % 702-792-0640. Along with the displays of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas originals. The museum is open Monday
The Barrick Museum of Natural History. 1 PM to 5 PM. actual cosmopolitan. features work by students. Sunday. Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes Nevada 159 en route). 1775 East Tropicana Avenue. Admission is $4. Natural Wonders But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most unnatural of cities. 8 AM to 4:45 PM. Ham Concert Hall. call % 702-895-3801. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. % 702-895-3381. who made his Sin City debut at age 23. % 702-363-1921. this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright red sawtooth peaks. the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus. but no less extravagant. black-tie-and-tails culture in the heart of Lost Wages. $4. pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and granite ridges. 10 AM to 5 PM. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday. Dedicated to Mr. has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire Southwest.95 for adults. The museum is open Monday through Friday. Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. Seasonal streams. The most convenient place to discover the eyepopping beauty of the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. is the Liberace Museum. 8 AM to 5 PM. Nevada Dance Theatre and others who perform here. % 702-895-3893. $3. Just off the glittering Strip. The Beam Fine Art Gallery. this is the most popular non-casino attraction in Las Vegas. For more information on the Nevada Symphony. faculty and invited artists. Showmanship. Friday through Sunday until 11 PM.95 for seniors and students. % 702-798-5595. an abandoned quarry and Native American petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some of the best hiking trails in the state. The tax-deductible admission is $6. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers. 9 AM to 9 PM. Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. offers a bounty of academia and visual and performing arts.95 for adults. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by Chopin.50 for seniors. who swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of . giant. Southeast of the Strip.26 n Las Vegas Territory through Thursday. 4505 South Maryland Parkway. Yes. % 702-895-3011.
later during summer months. Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. along the way looking for wild burros (leftovers from the early mining days). and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds. % 702-875-4191. The park is open daily. the road to Mt. 8 AM to 11 PM. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15. The park is open daily. 7 AM to dusk. It’s five miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157. wife of a German munitions tycoon. (See below. have been unearthed here. Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock. under Adventures on Foot. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating back to 11000 BC. began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. The park is open daily. when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip. Back on US 95.Touring n 27 Southern Nevada. Today there is a restaurant. complete with mock gunfights and hangings. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the summer. % 702-486-5413. saloon. a turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park. a tour toward cooler regions heads northwest on US 95. trail rides and a “real” Western town. but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite.) The best time to take the 13-mile. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM to 4:30 PM. Charleston. Admission is $4. 8 AM to sunset. With structures dating back to 1864. An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners. % 702-875-4141. 8 AM to 5 PM. petting zoo. Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. among them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp. The admission is $5 per vehicle. 5 PM in the winter. The shaggy critters will probably come right up to your car. when locals flock to family musicals under the stars to keep their minds off the heat. Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole. the park is also one of the West’s most notable archeological sites. one-way loop drive is early morning. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest Las Vegas Territory . The restaurant and bar are open daily. It’s also the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a year.
but a left turn and a short drive leads through the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation. There are US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. In the winter. A right turn leads to Las Vegas. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and gamble by night.) Pitch a tent. under On Wheels. Nevada’s state animal.) . the Mt. % 702-872-5408. see below under On Snow. (See below.918 feet.000 vertical feet of runs. % 702385-2SKI. % 702-646-3401. % 702-872-5500. The 1. then head up Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill. completing the Mt. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning. and its 1. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. % 702-872-7098. Charleston Hotel.) After the hike. under On Foot. overnight hump to Charleston Peak. all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s once boundless claim to this gorgeous. Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95. Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the Lower 48. Bighorn sheep. desolate valley. under Adventures and Camping. the canyon is home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. Charleston Lodge. backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go left.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a carefully planned 4WD journey.28 n Las Vegas Territory and the purple wall of the Spring Mountains. For ski rental and shuttle bus information. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. 17-mile. a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife Refuge Corn Creek Area. (See below. Charleston Loop. A 10-acre site pot-holed by springfed ponds. elevation 11. then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger Station. 2 Kyle Canyon Road. (See below. may be spotted near water sources during the summer.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156. where a left turn leads into Lee Canyon. under Camping. (See below. and campsites offering 100-mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. At the northern edge of the reservation. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside. to pick up the excellent hiking maps.
% 800-435-9792 TriStar Airlines. % 800-426-7000 Continental Airlines. Airlines Air 21. % 800-241-6522 USAir. % 800-225-2525 Reno Air. % 800-546-4564 Western Pacific Airlines. % 800-525-0280 Delta Air Lines. % 800-543-3708 American Airlines. % 800-218-8777 TWA. % 800-432-1359 Hawaiian Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Northwest Airlines. The following are among the many commercial airlines that serve Las Vegas. % 800-426-0333 America West Airlines. % 800-538-5494 Midway. % 702-328-6400 Alaska Airlines. % 800-736-6247 Southwest Airlines. % 800-221-2000 United Airlines. % 800-446-4392 Kiwi Airlines. % 800-930-3030 Las Vegas Territory . % 800-221-1212 Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-453-9417 Frontier Airlines. % 800-433-7300 Canadian Airlines.Touring n 29 Las Vegas Transportation McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to meet the increasing needs of visitors. % 800-235-9292 American Trans Air.
% 800-527-0700 Classic Car Rental. % 800-367-2277 US Rent-A-Car.30 n Las Vegas Territory Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels. % 800-372-1981 Dollar. % 800-227-0292 Sav-Mor. % 800-245-2345 Lloyd’s International. % 800-CAR-RENT Preferred. % 800-272-USAV Value. % 800-GO-VALUE . % 800-627-4654 Rent-A-Wreck. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-654-3131 Ladki International. % 800-785-8578 Alamo. % 800-372-1981 Avis. % 800-290-3900 Airport Rent-A-Car. % 800-654-7037 Luxury Classic. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-777-9377 U-Save. % 800-654-7037 National. AA Auto Rentals. % 800-634-6779 Thrifty. % 800-800-4000 Enterprise. % 800-GO-ALAMO Allstate. % 800-346-4222 Americar. % 800-634-6186 Always Rent-A-Car.
US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson. Did it work? Judge for yourself.000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s first experimental “model city.50 for adults. 3150 Paradise Road. The museum is open daily. .Touring n 31 Buses Several bus lines serve Las Vegas. % 702-882-3375 Ray & Ross Transport. Maps of the Historic District and the River Mountain Trail are available. site of the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum. 444 Hotel Plaza. % 702-294-1888. NV 89109. Las Vegas Territory Information Sources Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City. Call % 800USA-RAIL. % 800-487-2252 Amtrak Amtrak serves Las Vegas. Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority. overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. % 800-231-2222 K-T Services. for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. % 702-455-7955.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960. On the north side of Boulder City. a peaceful town that was created in 1931 to house 4. $1 for seniors and children under 16. % 702-735-1616. n Henderson/Boulder City From Las Vegas. Gray Line Tours. Admission is $1. 711 East Desert Inn Road. 1830 South Boulder Highway. % 800-332-5333. NV 89109. 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and New Year’s Day. but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. stopping downtown. % 800-338-8111 Valen Transportation. % 800-634-6579 Greyhound Lines.
Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and twilight hours. The cost is $5 for adults. wetting 822 miles of shoreline. taking gawkers 528 feet down into the dam’s concrete innards.50 for seniors 62 and over and children 10-16. % 702-293-2034. you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the dam eight miles away.) Be sure to heed the . % 702-294-3521 Lake Mead National Recreation Area The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam. 660 thick at the base. and 45 feet thick at the top. 500 South Boulder Highway. swimming. stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. fishing. 89105. Information Sources Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce. for information on camping. Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175 million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. Holding about 9 trillion gallons.32 n Las Vegas Territory off US 93 at Ville Drive. But a wait is worth it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. Hoover Dam took 5. Hoover Dam Continuing northeast on US 93. unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. boating and diving. % 702-565-8591. head back toward Boulder City. Phoenix and Los Angeles. Children under 10 are free. % 702-293-8907. Las Vegans. Hoover also created Lake Mead. $2. (See On Water below.000 workers nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam. All of 726 feet high. Its building caused the death of 94 workers. including the greatest per capita water users in the nation. Lake Mead provides water for 14 million thirsty Westerners. the largest man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere. 89005. The cheap electricity and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of Las Vegas. 100 Nevada Highway. but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. or the Boulder City Visitors Center.
then six miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay. Cruises range from midday trips ($14. A right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina. From the visitor center. thank you. Beyond here. % 702-397-2088. Just beyond the bay. explain the geology and forces of erosion. mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in campgrounds. The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side of the park and go 15 miles to US 15. The displays in the visitor center. There are half a dozen prime hiking trails (see On Foot below). go north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach. Back on Nevada 167. a public swimming and boating area. a left heads into the surreal landscape of Valley of Fire State Park. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina. or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to Vegas. another small marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler. Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina. with temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant threat during thunderstorm season. nearly five miles off the highway.Touring n 33 warnings about driving in this remote country. Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. but there just aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. Valley of Fire will do quite nicely. Las Vegas Territory Valley of Fire State Park If the shuttle to Mars is sold out. the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. TAKE CARE Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery. . In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the city. it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance excursions ($43). Go straight to reach Henderson. then south about 35 miles to the center of the Strip. which rests on the Virgin River. Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. % 702-293-6180.
and watched the town balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. % 702-297-1682. It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass turnoff. Admission is a $1 donation. is Cottonwood Cove Resort and Marina. % 520-754-3628. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains. Saturday. East of Searchlight 14 miles. (For details on all three. The museum is open Monday through Friday. past bizarre pinnacles and outcrops to the pass. where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon. was recorded in Laughlin in 1994. The Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. Henderson/Boulder City Transportation Airlines At presstime. bar and bait shop. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling revenues chart and attracts 500. 355 Highway 95. 125°. % 702-297-1464. see below. relives those days. Nevada’s record-high temperature. 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. which backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam. hiking and a beach at Davis Camp County Park. Don Laughlin started here with a motel. constructed his Riverside Casino. % 800-46-4584 .and silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. % 520-754-3272. The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. Named for a brand of matches. under Adventures. skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and passes through Searchlight. so it’s no surprise that adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave. on Lake Mojave. 200 Michael Wendoll Way. 9 AM to 1 PM. a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing. South of here is camping. a campground and marina. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday. the town was a gold. with motel.) Just south of the park is the Colorado River Museum.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon. Arizona.000 visitors a month. where pine trees are hung with all sorts of “decorations. campground and fishing and swimming spots. % 520-754-3399. in Bullhead City. US 95 slides south through the desolate Eldorado Valley. % 520-754-4606. % 800-235-9292 Eagle Canyon Airlines.34 n Las Vegas Territory Searchlight/Laughlin Midway between Henderson and Boulder City. North of the dam on the Arizona side of the river. four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport: America West Express. 9 AM to 5 PM.
which brings thousands of hogs and their riders to town. March The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March. May The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American. % 800-654-3131 Las Vegas Territory Information Sources For more information.000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon. % 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN. % 800-527-0700 Enterprise. % 800-736-6247 United Express. % 800-331-1212 Budget. % 800-227-5245. April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo. April April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival. Special Events February In February. contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. In Laughlin. % 310-448-1822.Special Events n 35 Reno Air. which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing. % 702-798-6405. and the annual Laughlin River Run/Harley Days. May is the busiest month. Western and Mexican influences are celebrated in its festivals. % 800-325-8007 Hertz. % 800-227-5254. 1555 South Casino Drive. as many as 6. host- . % 702-876-3380. % 800-241-6522 Rental Cars Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin: Avis.
% 702-631-7000. October Art in the Park. also takes place in October. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar Races. % 702434-0848. August In August. % 702-293-4857. take place in Boulder City. to downtown. % 702-386-3926. to the waters of Lake Mead. % 702-870-1221. % 702-898-6565. % 702-457-2797. July The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree. comes to Boulder City and the picturesque RiverFlight. to the campus of UNLV. floats into Laughlin. September The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival. % 702-8953900. % 800-637-1006. a three-day balloon rally. % 702-293-2034. % 702-293-1611. blows in. Later in the month. the Parade of Lights. Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park. % 800-227-5245.36 n Las Vegas Territory ing cowboy-themed Helldorado Days. are held in Laughlin at the end of the month. The annual River Days and Celebrity Water Challenge. takes place in Vegas. % 702-2939256. along with the Best in the Desert race all the way to Reno. Another balloon festival. the Las Vegas Classic. to town. % 702-457-5775. while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration. December December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival. Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival. and the National Finals Rodeo. . the International Black Heritage Festival. and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow. Navaho and Mojave peoples. a confluence of Southern Paiute. % 702-452-8066. % 702687-5777. % 702-4541212.
The area gets only four inches of rain a year. while nearby Cloud Tower (5.11).9) has 1.200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels. especially in winter months. but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown. Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek Trail parking lot. A onehour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5.8). Other routes in- . Stratocaster (5. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5. Graveyard Waltz (5. Red Rock attracts free climbers. Utah.11+). To the west. the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Highlights include Rages Edges Cliff (5.11). With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes. so take extra precautions when adventuring here. that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some areas.Adventures n 37 Adventures n On Foot Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area From any point in Las Vegas Valley. is only 35 minutes from the Strip. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop.11d) offers more advanced routes.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5. rising peaks in three directions beckon the hiker and climber. run by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains. teeth-chattering cold in the winter and flashfloods the rest of the year. Be sure to practice leave-notrace climbing. Chicken Eruptus (5. Crimson Chrysalis (5. sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec sandstone – so many.9).11b). so chalk often stays put for months. At nearby Willow Springs. the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent bouldering and one-pitch area. On the loop three miles beyond the quarry. At the end of a 90-minute approach. White Rock Spring is the springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5. is to mountain bikers. The Choad Warrior (5. Sheep Trail (5. Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs.12a). in fact. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in Oak Creek Canyon. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb (5.7) crag and mixed climbing walls.11). Red Rock has become to climbers what Moab.
the granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada 159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. all that remains of his 1920s homestead. toward a ridge at 11.38 n Las Vegas Territory clude Solar Slab (5. the Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail. The trail switchbacks time and again. Chockstone Press.918 feet. & For more information. Rainbow Buttress (5. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek. an easy six-mile round-trip. watch for Horace Wilson’s basement.10 or 5. About seven miles from the visitor center. starts up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens have survived the annual onslaught of snow. See Outfitters. 17 miles round-trip. The 3.000 feet in four miles. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road.000 feet.000 feet. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon. to savor the 300-mile views. ending at a small dam and the spring.000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment.12). . gaining 3. After a flat 2½ miles the trail dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders. providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower than in the blistering valley. page 41. turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. where bighorn sheep and other wildlife can be spotted. the trail passes under pinyon and juniper pine. From here it’s two flat miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb toward Charleston Peak. There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads away from the road. consult the Bible of local climbers.6). Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork just after crossing the wash. elevation 11. The South Loop Trail. Another excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs. Following the fork. The Spring Mountains Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12. published by the American Alpine Club. which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla cactus. The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste. Volume 1 by John Harlin III. At the aforementioned fork.8) and Eagle Dance (5.
4 miles. the Sheep Creek Range soars 10. the trail passes aspen and mountain mahogany. the Historic Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93 and Nevada 166. A 90-minute ride is $20 per person. conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for rapid weather changes. TAKE CARE Las Vegas Territory Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip. % 702-873-8800 or 702-872-7098.000 feet above the desert. Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and spectacular views of Kyle Canyon. contact the US Forest Service.500 feet to Cockscomb Ridge. thunderstorms and snow. To the northwest. For trail information and weather and safety updates. The Historic Railroad Trail On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City.000 feet to a saddle. they shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. the easy three-mile round-trip to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the visitors center. while the Virgin Mountains rise 8. the trail climbs 1. Never take these altitudes lightly. Additional Lake Meadarea hiking information is available at the visitor center.Adventures n 39 An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon. Mountain T Ranch. % 702-656-8025 offers horseback riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail to Charleston Peak. gaining 1. Echo Road cuts right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad right-of-way. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards. At lower elevations. while the main trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south.000 feet into the northeastern sky. Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers. or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car shuttle. . Beginning on a dirt road. Valley of Fire State Park In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas. covering two miles and gaining 1.
% 888-86ROCKY. then up a gully to a point just below the summit.600 feet above Christmas Tree Pass. heading for the northernmost outcropping. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard.2 miles. Climb northward up the slope. HCR 33. Las Vegas Escape the City Streets. % 702-364-8687. and park at the end of the road. camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following outfitters. 89137. Las Vegas 89117. Bruce Grubbs. Red Rock Sky’s the Limit. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a lung-burning 2. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign. Falcon Press Publishing. PO Box 80875. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running summit ridge. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. which is marked by a post. Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym. Sports & Adventure Tours. Rocky Trails. Suite 4. in The Hikers Guide to Nevada. % 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597. % 702-434-3388. turn right. 89124. 89180. then go northwest to another plateau. % 702-223-2176. climb a gully to reach a ridge. % 702-254-5604. . Hiking & Climbing Outfitters Guided hiking. PO Box 371324. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on Nevada 163 from Laughlin. go 6.000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Las Vegas. Las Vegas. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings. % 702-596-2953. outlines the easiest route.40 n Las Vegas Territory The Newberry Mountains North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5. ascending northwest. 3065 East Patrick Avenue. Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. PO Box 1. Just south of this outcrop. Stay below the northern peaks. 3557 South Valley View Boulevard.
% 702362-7177.Adventures n 41 Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters: Las Vegas 2R Riding Stables. PO Box 19210. 8201 West Charleston Boulevard. 89132. 2101 South Decatur Boulevard. Silver State Old West Tours. maps and information can be found at the following local retailers: Las Vegas Adventure Outfitting. take Nevada 160 (Blue Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard. The trails in Cottonwood Valley. Peak Sports. Armed . % 702-254-1143. n On Wheels Biking The Cottonwood Valley There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas Valley. take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road . Las Vegas Territory Outdoor Equipment Quality outdoor equipment. % 702-252-7114. 1211 South Eastern Avenue. At mile post 17. can arrange a covered wagon trip. Las Vegas. Hahn’s World of Surplus. Native Nevadan Sporting Goods. % 702387-2457. % 702-798-6565. Cowboy Trail Rides. % 702-649-6819. Desert Rock Sports. % 702-458-8870. % 702-875-1978. % 702-2567433. Desert Outfitting. however. 617 Hoover Avenue. 1400 Desert Hills Drive. 4065 East Patrick Lane. are the first to be set aside for fat tire mavens.6 mile to a dirt road. Wagons West. % 702-383-0838. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas. 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard.
PO Box 26589. Turn right. Las Vegas. For a tamer road trip. then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass. 4765 Vegas Drive. scanning for a cairn on the left. go to the next intersection. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to the summit of Wilson Pass. After beginning another climb. make a quick right and head downhill. turn right. Turn right. Because the status of any trail can change at any time. A double track soon appears on the right. Head downhill. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a road. and pump uphill. zoom downhill to the fork. you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. heading uphill. before heading out. NV 89126. a combination waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides. a six-mile loop. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. . turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a large pile of rocks. Follow this marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead. flying downhill and then up to another road. turn left and ride until you reach a rock cairn.42 n Las Vegas Territory with Suzanne Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press). park here and pedal west toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course. following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. Go left here. Just beyond the summit make a left on a road to an intersection. Take this until you reach a double track. turn left to another intersection and turn right. Take this through a parking lot and into a wash. contact the Bureau of Land Management. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks. cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. % 702-647-5000. which marks your trail heading south across the desert. the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. turn right to reach the bottom of the Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. For a more challenging excursion. At the road. Ride until you see a cairn on the left. the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center. Follow this to the top of Red Valley.
site of many ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire State Park. Escape the City Streets. Downhill Bicycle Tours. 8221 West Charleston Boulevard. % 702-646-3401. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned mines toward Bitter Ridge. % 702-8978287. the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and missionaries as far back as 1776. Turn left to return to US 15. right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a paved road. 16 Cottonwood Drive. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault. % 702-642-2453. One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back Country Byway.Adventures n 43 Biking Outfitters Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours. % 702-596-2953. 7934 Cadenza Lane. Blue Diamond Blue Diamond Bicycles. % 702-252-8077. R&R Cycling. % 702-876-8687. The road passes the multicolored sandstone hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley. 4503 West Sahara Avenue. 1539 North Eastern Avenue. 3310 South Nellis Boulevard. Ski Chalet. rising hundreds of feet from the desert floor. including journeys into the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Las Vegas Bikes USA. . 4600 West Tropicana Avenue. % 702-8754500 Las Vegas Territory Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley. be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out. % 702-451-9586. At about the 10-mile mark. the byway forks. Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. Because flash floods alter the terrain of trails seasonally. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area.
The Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters.44 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE This is rugged country with no services. A guide and boat are included for $100 per day. just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required. is on the premises. % 702-454-5555. Fly-tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom. . of all places. Drivers are strongly urged to carry emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday. % 702-380-6969. Old West Territory Tours. 8 AM to 11 AM. Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. The shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the glistening. Jeep Tour Operators The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours: Las Vegas Jeep Tours. Las Vegas. 4765 West Vegas Drive. 713 East Ogden Street. It begins. 2810 South Highland Drive. 89101. a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. Suite B. % 702-796-9355. Rebel Adventure Tours. n On Water Las Vegas It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. the last hour of class covers knot-tying and fly-fishing tackle. For details. contact the Las Vegas BLM office. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM. an avid angler for more than 50 years. % 888-REELRIO. maps and more information on backcountry byways. crystal-clear hotel pool. 3700 Flamingo Road. tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. % 702-646-8800.
sailing and houseboating are favorite pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake. and also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). For details. Hoover Dam also formed Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot.500-acre ranch in Utah. Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay. 4305 South Industrial Boulevard. The expert staff is available seven days a week. rents houseboats. Expeditions include the services of a guide for every three anglers. flows into Lake Mead. (See below. instruction and gear. about three miles across at its widest point. Lake Mead Las Vegas Territory Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power. offering professional advice. . powerboats and cruisers. largemouth bass and trout. meals and overnight lodging for $449. The diving trail at North Boulder Beach lies in a protected area.) Swimming. visit Divers’ Discount Supply. Boat and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road). Boulder Beach. Off Nevada 167. The Overton Arm of the Virgin River Northeast of Las Vegas. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence. the Overton Arm of the Virgin River. Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. peregrine falcons and even flamingos. with locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave.to three-days notice is required. water skiing. But the ultimate fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2. jet skiing. Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to just about anywhere. Forever Resorts. while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish weighed more than 50 pounds). % 800-2555561. under Boating Outfitters. Thomas. and two. Echo Bay offers all the amenities and rentals. where the Virgin and Muddy rivers wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns. % 800-34-SCUBA.Adventures n 45 Rental equipment is extra.
Near Laughlin.46 n Las Vegas Territory TAKE CARE Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert winds kick up. the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. . % 702-565-8958. 89102. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous. particularly near cliffs. The cost is about $65 per person. Lake Mead Adventure Outfitting. Lake Mead Resort & Marina. Boating Outfitters Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers: Boulder City Down River Outfitters. PO Box 61235. % 800-696-RAFT. Las Vegas. 89006. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. HCR 30. PO Box 62465. Lake Mojave Farther south. 322 Lake Shore Road. Boulder City’s Black Canyon Raft Tours Company. Calville Bay Resort. 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard. In Laughlin most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft. Return transportation is provided by bus. where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake. % 702-2931190. offers trips from January through November. Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. PO Box 100. % 702-252-7114. the once angry Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Lake Mohave Resort & Marina. Las Vegas. % 702293-3784 or % 800-752-9669. 89006. Lake Mead Cruises. is the local fishing and boating hub. % 702-293-6180. % 702-754-3245. The Colorado River South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam. 89124.
Laughlin Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks. % 702-433-3263. 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard. Henderson Rainbows End Bass & Gas. contact: Las Vegas Blue Lake Bait & Tackle. 3031 East Charleston Boulevard. PO Box 29279. % 702-564-5660. % 702-459-2080. Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods. % 702-3944000. Overton. PO Box 29279. Clearwater Flyfishing. 4290 Boulder Highway. 89028. Lake Mojave Cottonwood Cove Marina. Tom’s Water Skiing. % 702-388-1022. Overton. 89040. Sunset Bait & Tackle. Bullhead City. % 702-564-5452 Echo Bay Resort & Marina. % 800-228-9825. 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard.Adventures n 47 Las Vegas Bay Marina. Overton Beach Marina. % 702565-0696. % 702297-1464. 1000 East Lake Mead Drive. 1000 Cottonwood Cove. % 702-2981047 Las Vegas Territory Fishing Outfitters For fishing supplies and angling information. 520-758-6242. % 702-5659111. Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals. Virgin River Action Watercraft Rental. . 89040. 89029. AZ. Laughlin River Tours. Laughlin. % 702-437-9283. 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard. 1330 East Lake Mead Drive. Fiesta Queen Cruises. % 702-452-8299. 1450 Newberry Drive.
The National Park Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand Canyon region. particularly during the Las Vegas Balloon Classic. n In The Air With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural splendors of Grand Canyon. $20 for each additional jump on the same day. The company claims more than 500. is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at A. so check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety records before flying. The platform is open Sunday through Friday. Decide whether you want to exacerbate this environmental concern. A jump is $59. 3800. 810 Circus Circus Drive. TAKE CARE Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines. % 702-385-4321. Saturday until midnight. noon to 9 PM. % 702-434-0848. Even more memorable. 68 Mallory Road. Las Vegas has more air tour operators than any other city in the nation. Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. % 702-5657583. Trips range from one-hour night flights over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon. HB Fishing Guide Service. check the operator’s safety records and consult weather reports.J. 1500 Palomino Drive. Henderson Bill Spellman. Karen Jones. complete with guided ground tours and meals. % 702-564-1558. % 702-451-4004. Arizona and Zion.48 n Las Vegas Territory Fishing Guides Las Vegas Donoho’s Guide Service.000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool of water. % 702-871-1399. Utah. 161 East Rancho Drive. Hackett Bungy. With commercial balloon tours. citing growing noise problems. . ext. however. Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley. held every October at Silver Bowl Park. Jim Goff. % 702-565-8396.
3275 Rosanna Street. 806 Buchanan Street. % 800-255-7474. Sundance Helicopters. An all-day lift ticket runs $27.ultimateballoonadven. Jean Airport. Web site www.Adventures n 49 Flight Outfitters The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information and does not constitute any endorsement. 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard.com. % 702-877-1010. Heli USA. % 702-385-2SKI. the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. % 702-221-9199. Boulder City SkyDive Las Vegas. the resort offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. The slopes are open from November until (usually) April. NV 89019. % 702-293-1860. Jean. Las Vegas Airlines. often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. % 702-736-0013. % 800-634-6377. 200 Convention Center Drive. Las Vegas Air Nevada Airlines. Eagle Canyon Airlines. 2705 Airport Drive. Rentals and free transportaHO TE L . King Airelines. NV 89117. Set at a base elevation of 8. Ultimate Balloon Adventures. PO Box 19629.500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon. % 702-5975505 or % 800-653-1881. 806 Buchanan Street. Las Vegas. % 800-535-4448. D&R Balloons. % 800-446-4584. % 800-216-8330. #115-200. Scenic Airlines. Boulder City. % 702-731-4768 Las Vegas Helicopters. 241 East Reno Avenue. Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving. Air Vegas Airlines. % 800-359-8727. 89109. % 800-634-6851. Skydive Las Vegas. Las Vegas Territory n On Snow Largely ignored by the tourists. Las Vegas Skydiving Center. Las Vegas. Check safety records and certification before flying with anyone. % 800-8-SKYDIV. 89005.
For more serious snow. 18 East Fremont Street. clog up traffic and play the nickel slots. The hotel tower was built in the 1980s. $-$$$. But somehow.50 n Las Vegas Territory tion to and from the hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Las Vegas With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well. check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort.000 visitors. For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that are holdovers from the 1930s. 600 East Fremont Street. Above all. Brian Head offers six lifts on two mountains and full amenities. when rates are lower and lines are shorter. HO TE L Many hotels. $-$$. opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th streets. opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. over 100. be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. The place was once part-owned by in- . located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. if possible. After all. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that they border some questionable neighborhoods. % 702-646-0008. travel to Vegas Monday through Thursday. Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities. avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo (COMDEX) hits town. % 800-272-7426.000-room MGM Grand. Take a close look around before choosing a hotel. are booked solid on weekends. All they do is take up space. even behemoths like the 5. The casino at the Las Vegas Club. getting a cheap room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed bandit. % 702-385-5200. it seems.000 techies to Sin City.000 as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world. 2395 North Rancho Road. the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of Nevada’s romanticized past. on any given day you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80. % 702-385-1664. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez. luring 200.
New York. dominate the Strip. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the Las Vegas Hilton. and New York. % 702-731-7110. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South. The faux volcano. The Four Queens. $-$$. % 702-740-NYNY. who built the first casino resort. 202 East Fremont Street. Even by Vegas standards. the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the Vegas souvenir. 3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South. you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. % 702-3821600. the adventure is finding your way to the front desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. 3790 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion. Monte Carlo.Where To Stay & Eat n 51 famous gangster Bugsy Siegel. South of here. If you’ve ever wondered where all this money goes. New York is out there. before being gunned down in Los Angeles in 1947. has 1. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South. 128 East Fremont Street. also check out Binion’s Horseshoe. which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-war and a pirate ship six times a night. where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise. % 702-740-NYNY. The movie Rainman was shot here. 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South. New York. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel. $$-$$$$. the MGM Grand. $$-$$$$. all surrounded by a gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists. The Mirage.037 rooms. 1 Main Street. across from the Fashion Show Mall. Caesars Palace. however. % 702-894-7111. is Treasure Island at The Mirage. the young upstarts. now seems almost understatedly elegant – even with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the Strip’s brash newcomers. If staring at wealth is your thing. is a bit more luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds. 129 East Fremont Street. $$$-$$$$. $$-$$$$. magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the back. On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard). was opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms. Opened in 1966 but still oozing class. is a crowd-pleaser. % 702-385-7111. the Flamingo. % 702-732-5111. % 702-386-2110. $$-$$$$. The Golden Nugget. $$$$$. Built in 1964 two blocks off the Strip. while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza. Down the street. % 702-385-4011. $$-$$$. % 702- Las Vegas Territory . Across the street is the green giant. it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment. % 702-791-7171. 3000 Paradise Road. way out there. which erupts every 15 minutes after dark. Next door is the Island’s big sister. $$-$$$$. $-$$. featuring uncanny replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South.
feels a bit more like a quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt. 3330 West Tropicana Avenue. % 702-872-5408.” but paying for sex is against the law and unsafe. offers rustic lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South. % 702-875-4400. Las Vegas is also home to the King 8 Hotel. two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on the Strip. $-$$. Charleston Hotel. In the Spring Mountains. .800 feet but next to a busy restaurant parking lot.000. while Bellagio will boast 3. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of the top of the 350-foot black pyramid. which eliminates Reno. prostitution is still illegal in the city and all of Clark County. $-$$$. Prostitution is legal only in counties with populations under 400. $$-$$$$. Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter. Laughlin and its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500.000 visitors a month and climbing. % 702-262-4555. % 800-634-3988. three Motel 6s. % 702-735-1616. contrary to popular belief. positively sedate with its 5. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River. more airy and easier and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas. For a complete list of Las Vegas lodging. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower. At this book goes to press. and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. contact the Chamber of Commerce. has 2.” At the southern terminus of the Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor.500 rooms. TIP Laughlin For the most part. You wouldn’t know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers. On the outskirts of Vegas. the Mt. Charleston Resort. set at 7. but don’t count on that for long. % 702-872-5500. too. On the less expensive end of the spectrum.000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake.005 rooms and a 33-acre theme park amid these new “destination resorts.52 n Las Vegas Territory 891-1111. Bonnie Springs Motel. A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas. $$-$$$$. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted diseases as are the women in legal brothels.
Nearby. 202 Fremont Street. 2300 South Casino Drive. has been many locals’ “special place” for Continental cuisine for years. % 702-298-5111. 1900 South Casino Drive. $-$$$. $$$$. % 702-891-7337. Downtown at the Four Queens. and very expensive. has 1. serves upscale Italian fare. After a few meals at most of these troughs. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair and Gatsby’s offers a unique. while the Colorado Belle. $-$$$. try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere. is a regular stop for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. An excellent buffet. % 702-298-2535. contact the Chamber of Commerce. $-$$. in the Las Vegas Hilton. Off the main drags. The Edgewater. 2121 South Casino Drive. all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining experiences. % 702-385-5016. % 702-252-7777. % 702-891-7374. classy Hugo’s Cellar. is Don Laughlin’s original establishment. seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house. 2000 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Hamada. % 702-298-4000. both at the MGM Grand. Las Vegas is known more for its 24-hour. you won’t wonder why pit bosses give away so many meals. are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. % 702-732-5111. Las Vegas Territory n Restaurants Las Vegas The gathering place for gourmands from around the world. while the Golden Nugget. and Harrah’s. % 702-298-2453. % 702-385-4011. % 702-298-4600. 3700 West Flamingo Road. is perhaps Vegas’ finest . % 702-3807711. featuring a movie theater and large showroom. 2000 South Casino Drive. Eurasian mélange. Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. the Flamingo Hilton. 401 South 6th Street. At the Flamingo Hilton. brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to the edge of the river. % 702735-8686. 1350 East Flamingo Road. which rests atop the highest free-standing tower (135 stories) in the United States. % 702-298-7111. offers 2. $-$$. Café Michelle. 1650 Casino Drive. however.Where To Stay & Eat n 53 The Riverside Resort Hotel. Andre’s. $-$$. 2900 South Casino Drive.000 rooms. To really dine UPtown. Emeril’s. opened in 1990. 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South. On the Strip. and Gatsby’s. Andiamo. For a complete list of Laughlin lodging. % 702-298-4200. % 702-733-3111.500 rooms. offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. The Ramada Express. sports a railroad theme. $-$$$. can actually be found at the Rio Suite Hotel. 2100 South Casino Drive. % 702-298-2214.
2021 East Charleston Boulevard. % 702-382-1644. The Green Shack. having opened in 1932. For information. serves hip. 308 West Sahara Avenue. % 702-794-0700. % 702-298-2242. call % 702-873-8800.400 feet. serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. which has 15 primitive sites set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks. 4545 West Sahara Avenue. Phillip’s Supper House. in the shadow of Mt. % 702-693-5000. . Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House. % 702-384-4470. 2900 South Casino Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio. so be prepared for extreme weather. % 702-383-0007. Fong’s. 2700 South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel. 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South. Kyle Canyon. Near the end of Nevada 157. % 702-873-5222. McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more sites.54 n Las Vegas Territory French restaurant. The elevation here ranges between 7. % 702733-8899. 2504 East Fremont. % 702-2984600. seven days a week. An impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer. energetic comfort food 24 hours a day. serves fine steaks and seafood. For satisfying American favorites. Charleston. Chin’s. 3900 Paradise Road. All five campgrounds have piped water. while moderately pricey. campgrounds abound in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area. the closest developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. is the most popular Chinese place in town. Three miles past the visitors center on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground. % 702-363-1921. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. Laughlin In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane. as the name implies. boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and fish. At the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon.000 and 8. Chicken is the house specialty. n Camping Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas. Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip. 4455 Paradise Road. has served Mandarin cuisine at this site since 1955. although the Lodge. which. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s. For a Latin taste. Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. Suite Z. is the oldest restaurant in the city. Lucky’s 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel.
Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a total of more than 400 sites. Moving north from Boulder City. there’s Boulder Beach. 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169. For information. has room for 171 RVers and tenters. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing. Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. In Valley of Fire State Park. On the north shore. Calville Bay has 80 sites. The only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis Dam. For information on all five locations. north of town on Lake Mojave.Where To Stay & Eat n 55 Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas. call % 702-646-3401. On the Virgin River to the north. % 702-397-2088. most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. 355-acre Davis County Camp Park. % 520-7544606. Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. Across the river from the Strip. the two adjacent campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. Las Vegas Territory . To the east of Vegas. % 520-754-3272. call % 702-293-8906 Near Laughlin.
the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. Of course. offers all the diversions of its grown-up sister. offers a bucolic retreat from the neon.000 feet. the Nevada slopes can be relatively quiet. and for good reason. if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the campground for a few hours. While many of the more ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers. The Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country. but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. “Lake Tahoe is king of them all. Rose resorts. crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern shore.Reno-Tahoe Territory launchpad for a wider variety of adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. which flows through – and sometimes floods – downtown. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a mountain retreat. as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. Reno. “not only in size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. In the winter. With a surface elevation of more than 7. the largest alpine lake in North America. The Truckee River. Heavenly and Mt. Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million adventure seekers who visit the area annually. At the heart of this region. welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the powder of Diamond Peak. just east of the California-Nevada border. still “The Biggest Little City in the World” after all these years. Las Vegas. Cross-country skiing is also a favorite local pastime. Some of the most inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. the city of Reno is the .” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote.” Certainly Lake Tahoe. the area attracts hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer months.
Washoe Lake State Park. Today this mirage-come-true. Farther south. residents of which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. are walks back in time. the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all its glory. the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. sometimes not – through Reno-Tahoe Territory. which meanders – sometimes wet.58 n Reno-Tahoe Territory South of Reno. Pyramid Lake. The city is home to the history-minded Talking House Tour.600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-sized dinosaurs. The Carson River. Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their arrival for the Territorial Enterprise. are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful. some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian Museum. Fort Churchill. an ancient. Farther east of Carson City. where everyone expects Ben. the heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City. the Pine Forest Recreation Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. . can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage and scrub. About 30 miles north of Reno. The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City. while the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that. which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. offers quiet camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. 8. lies the true oasis of the northern Great Basin. a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake Lahontan. North of Pyramid Lake. where one-of-a-kind adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130 years ago. The place dates back to 1851. hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records? Finally. the region’s capital since 1861 and home to the shining capitol dome. the latter one of the last homes of the American pronghorn antelope. almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe. complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid rising from its depths. Just south of Carson City. on the shores of Washoe Lake. meanwhile. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-adventure here.
Jameson established a trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail. located on the south banks of the Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. US 395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. which is home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch Reno-Tahoe Territory .Touring n 59 Touring Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno. A good place to start exploring is the River Walk. for a schedule. Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake. Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. From Carson City. and in 1859 C. US 50 heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan Reservoir.W. Take note of the Virginia Street Bridge. faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere on the Reno horizon as this is being written. the latter beginning in Wadsworth.H. the city continues to grow rapidly. actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park Amphitheater. which seems just fine to many of the area’s visitors. but Reno has somehow managed to curb. the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. No. In 1863. H. Like Vegas. From here. which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. who made enough money from wagon trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as Reno. About a block west of the River Walk is Wingfield Park. Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the rough. In 1852. which hosts special events in warmer months. the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City South. The powers that be seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. or at least slow. Their efforts to maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot could. Call the Reno-Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority. From Reno. 33 miles east of Reno via I-80. n Reno If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory. there isn’t a glass pyramid. Fuller built an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. % 800-FOR-RENO. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447. it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag. North Virginia Street. US 395 heads south to connect with NV 431. gateway for almost every visitor who doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California.
. the most significant of them may be Harold’s Club at 2nd and Virginia. this is it.60 n Reno-Tahoe Territory between 1st Street and 6th Street. but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop. From a historical point of view. Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931.
Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. 300 North Center Street. is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers.Touring n 61 Harrah’s. go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right. When arms get tired. % 702-688-1190. situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street. On the suburban south side of Reno. are a tribute to this Renaissance man and philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. where North Virginia Street hits North McCarran Boulevard. % 702-788-3773. The staff welcomes visitors daily. the campus of the University of Nevada. Reno-Tahoe Territory . houses one of the world’s best collections. 1265 Deerlodge Road. is a well-known. 1502 North Washington Street. % 702-334-2600. And the Keck Minerals Museum. 1650 North Virginia Street. houses a theater and telescope. % 702-969-3111. % 702-784-4528. % 702784-4812. On the northern outskirts of the city. Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada. Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. May Museum and Arboretum. % 702-7855961. has been at that location since 1946. take US 395 north to Red Rock Road. April through October. 10 South Lake Street.) The Wilbur D. a nifty historical theme park. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can bowl here at one time. Great Basin Adventure. the Omnimax movies shown in the dome are the main attraction. turn right. but call first for hours. On the north side of the city. the National Automobile Museum. Animal Ark Nature Center. William Harrah opened the casino nine years after arriving in Reno. Fleischmann Planetarium. including black bears and kit foxes. is one of the best museums of its kind in the West. The Nevada Historical Society. (See below under On Foot. it’s time to leave the casinos and visit the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowlingball-shaped geodesic dome. To get there. About 10 minutes north of the university. is also located here. highlighted by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James Dean’s 1949 Mercury. non-profit haven for orphaned and injured wildlife. boasts three treasures. % 702-333-9300.
% 702-882-3375. United Airlines. % 800-453-9417. Reno Air. Lloyd’s International. % 800-800-4000. % 800-221-1212. % 800-325-8007. % 800-CAR-RENT. Enterprise. Canadian Airlines. No Stress Express. Airlines Air 21. Delta Air Lines. Budget.62 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno-Tahoe Transportation Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers. Delta Connection-Sky West. % 800-235-9292. they are the only way of reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas. % 800-225-2525. % 800-221-2000. % 800-654-3131. % 800-367-2277. National. % 800-527-0700. % 800-736-6247. % 800-4-SHUTTL. Alaska Airlines. Greyhound Lines. . TriStar Airlines. Northwest Airlines. % 800-331-1212. TWA. % 702-328-6400. Dollar. % 800-241-6522. Thrifty. % 800-654-7037. America West Airlines. % 800-231-2222. Buses Several bus lines also serve Reno. Hertz. K-T Services. % 800-435-9792. Southwest Airlines. % 800-359-2472. % 800-426-7000. Rental Cars Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels. Avis. If you don’t have a car. % 800-218-8777.
the lake still shines with breathtaking beauty. a marvelous intermingling of water.Touring n 63 Information Sources Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce. NV 89502. year-round outdoor playgrounds. promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. respectively. restore forest and watersheds. Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council. 22 miles long and 12 miles wide. Reno. % 702-329-2936. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997. At the northern and southern ends of Lake Tahoe. Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin. % 800-FOR-RENO. 4590 South Virginia Street. rock. In reality. trees and sky. but the future of the Basin itself. the Nevada legislature was considering an $82 million plan to improve roads and trails. n Lake Tahoe This sky-high sapphire. local. which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline. proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords. At press time. Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and. provides an interesting mix of adventures. 405 Marsh Avenue. the waters are now finding friends in high places. NV 89505. Fortunately. in his journal Roughing It. % 702-686-3030. The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority.” Tourism bureaus have been lifting that phrase ever since. The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin. motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline. But there is a dark side: Rows of shops. control erosion and acquire open land. state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the Basin’s wild qualities. 98 Colony Road. and in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on Las Vegas Boulevard. the towns of Incline Vil- Reno-Tahoe Territory . The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. All told. In 1861. showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of North America’s premier. is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to the 1870s. Reno. is a study in contrast.
64 n Reno-Tahoe Territory .
Sand Harbor is a very popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. % 702-849-2511. with its full slate of running water. Three miles south of Incline Village.776 feet. The beaches are open daily. alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. (See below. The north end of the beach. is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side. Admission is $8. is a favorite of hikers and horseback riders. The road then drops toward Lake Tahoe. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction. $5. NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village. Close by are Memorial Point and Hidden Beach.50 for kids. along the eastern shoreline. After the buzz of the ranch. The park. untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Viewed from the highway. The replica was so good that the producers began shooting here. But in between them. restrooms and picnic areas. called Diver’s Cove. under On Foot. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek County Park. offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas. stands out amid the pines. Nevada protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. is well-known to snorkelers.50 for adults. at 10. waves of trees seem to roll down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch.Touring n 65 lage and Stateline bustle with rental cars and video poker machines. Just south of Incline Village on NV 28. the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself. and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. A short nature trail winds along the water’s edge.) Up the twisting NV 431. Two posts on the inland side of the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the steep slopes to the shore. % 702-831-0494. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with aspens. open May through November. The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431 west. a toney community near the California border and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. is a welcome respite. the unique Ponderosa Ranch. % 702-831-0691. Reno-Tahoe Territory .
% 702588-3000. % 800-AT-TAHOE. NV 89449. At Tahoe Village. restaurants. Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to the tram that runs year-round. Booming in the winter (see below. under On Snow. under On Snow). % 702-588-4591. and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. This is the home port of the Dixie II. It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the entrance to Spooner Lake. canoeing. Woodwind Sailing Cruises. horseback riding. The price for such sloth is $10. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority. also offers excursions. South Lake Tahoe. a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering cruises of various lengths. $6 per child. NV 207 heads west toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin . Sand Harbor is home to a music festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. under Adventures and Accommodations.250 feet in five minutes. and just beyond that is Cave Rock. Information Sources Tahoe Chamber of Commerce. 96151. CA. a nature trail circles the lake. PO Box 7139. then into the broad Washoe Valley. Sailing. No bottles are allowed on the beaches. The next stop is Zephyr Cove.66 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 8 AM to 7 PM. (See below. snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. % 702588-3508. (See below. n South of Reno US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley. ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of 8.) The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-casinos. where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. condos. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins here.) For the unmechanized. PO Box 16299. a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore.50 per adult. offices and shops. Entrance fees are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers. The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction. The day-use fee is $5. Stateline. Every summer. % 916-583-9048. May through November. For information.
1851. the road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake. When restoration began on the house 70 years later. but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to severe droughts. Nevada Reno-Tahoe Territory . a group of six men opened a trading post called Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his family. % 702-687-4319. camping and hiking (see below. windsurfing. When the Comstock Lode. The park’s centerpiece. pages 83.000 acres. site of Washoe Lake State Park. eventually lost their silver fortune. Davis Creek offers its own small lake. Camping. During the wet season. (See below. one mile south of Washoe City. Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek. Washoe Lake. and on weekends between May and October. But the area didn’t begin to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his ranch. Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 – making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring Nevada’s motto: “All for our country. invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past. fishing and horseback riding are popular here. US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City.” On Halloween in 1864.Touring n 67 stretching away on the left. when gold and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. while the blue and the gray fought in the East. under Adventures. the mansion and all its furnishings. under Adventures) in the very shadow of the Sierras. US 395 slides southwest. About 15 miles south of Reno. the boom rolled in at full throttle. A wildlife viewing tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands. In November. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. About 30 miles south of Reno. % 702-849-0201. while NV 428 heads due south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother. off NV 429. Bowers Mansion. The visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old days. boating. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor Day. the world’s largest silver strike. Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno. Washoe Lake covers about 3. preservationists started a statewide search for as much furniture as they could find. Bowers Mansion County Park. Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the Mississippi. a hunt that lasted 20 years. was hit a year later in Virginia City. The original owners. 87 and 98). was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with exquisite period furniture.
Open Monday through Friday. It’s so open. % 702-687-4810. which was opened in 1886. Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding votes to abolish slavery. the Capitol is open daily. 600 North Carson Street. You can even poke a head through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. Headquartered in nearby Minden. hence the words waving on the state flag: “Battle Born. Call for schedules and pick-up points. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-tour map. % 702-884-3450. The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called the Kit Carson Trail. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble. the Nevada State Library & Archives. A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum. . makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. The library contains the original state constitution. an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety of changing exhibits. Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its 1864 romanticism. is the second-oldest capitol structure in the West. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon.” In fact. which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth between 1870 and 1893. % 702-687-5160. The legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings across the grassy plaza from the Capitol. are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the old State Printing Building. the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection. regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too much. 100 Stewart Street. Unlike most Western capitals. the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s. % 702687-5030. as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders. exhibits of native fauna. excepting state holidays. in fact. yearround. the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour. Just east of the Capitol. Located in the Carson City Mint building. The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the architecture. 101 North Carson Street. The Capitol Building & Museum. Recorded narration on The Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on the dial. Admission is $3. The Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big.68 n Reno-Tahoe Territory was granted statehood. the wagons make regular stops along the trail.
became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. The St. pottery studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. 813 North Carson Street. was known as a four-star establishment when it was completed in 1862. % 702-887-2174. The office is closed Sundays. Nevada’s first territorial secretary. Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office. Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world. and Bender House (1874). The staff can provide trail maps. The building now houses a live theater. % 702-883-1976. % 702-826-2766. 5366 Snyder Avenue. Two blocks north. built for the Tahoe lumber king in 1879.Touring n 69 complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement. the Carson City Brewing Company. The gem is an 1888 steam locomotive. 302 South Carson Street. the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. $2 for kids. 1536 South Carson Street. opened in December 1890 as the Clear Creek Indian Training School. Charles-Muller Hotel. was named for its original occupant. The Roberts House Museum. Samuel. books and permits for the surrounding area. On the suburban south side of Carson City. The native stone buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe. The nearby Brewery Arts Center. Roughing It. 502 North Division Street. marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. 448 West King Street. train buffs the world over flock to the Nevada State Railroad Museum. The Stewart Indian Museum. The goal later be- Reno-Tahoe Territory . % 702-687-6953. % 702-884-2226. The museum is filled with period furniture.50. Admission is $4 for adults. train rides are extra. Admission is $2. 1207 North Carson Street. Admission is $2. three homes stand proudly: the Governor’s Mansion (1909). 2180 South Carson Street. built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in 1873 on a railroad flat car. % 702-882-1808. whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother. That classic journal. is on the quiet campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School. has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy. Visitors can ride daily during summer months. Bliss Mansion. At the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets. home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent. running treasure from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate” native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. The Orion Clemens House.
now long gone. % 702-687-7410. Genoa Bar. Up the street. is actually a full-service resorthotel built around the steamy fresh-water springs. who for almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville. to Genoa. As of presstime. saunas. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson. Walley’s. The museum is open daily. % 702-782-4325. located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse.70 n Reno-Tahoe Territory came to highlight Native American history. What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. 3. at the foot of the Carson Range. first opened to tourists in 1862. . The highlight for history buffs is the Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets. Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily. Before the school closed in 1980. California. Across the street. Carson City. The place saw Nevada’s first house. 1900 South Carson Street. the first permanent white settlement in the state. n South of Carson City Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206. weight room and tennis courts year-round. lies Genoa. % 702-782-8155. NV 89701. The campus hosts an incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June. The roots go back to 1851. when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading post here called Mormon Station. opened in 1863. May through October.000 students had walked its halls. 2001 Foothill Road. budget constraints were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. Guests can enjoy the water. About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs. where he is buried. May through October. Daily admission is $12. whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. Information Sources Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau. claims to be Nevada’s oldest watering hole. Exhibits range from exquisite Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue.
Beyond NV 341. the center features fine displays covering local Washoe Indians and agriculture. Sharkey’s Nugget Casino. and their spirit built the Silver State. of all places. Their riches. and their ghosts still walk this landscape. resting precariously .200acre beauty set at 5. which climbs up a narrow. US 395 runs through the Dresslerville (Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. Just down US 395. % 702-266-3343. dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. The otherwise barren hills. a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists Cooperative Gallery. Gardnerville in 1879. where it intersects with NV 341. US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush. About three miles south of Gardnerville. about eight miles south of Carson City. % 702-782-3133. their sweat. Finally. a 1. the highway hits Topaz Lake. boxing memorabilia. about 25 miles south of Gardnerville. Leaving Carson City. % 702-782-2555. the main attraction is the Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. Virginia City. the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found in. Topaz Lake Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year. the towns of Minden and Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River.Touring n 71 Back on US 395. 1440 Highway 395. circus items. the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes into view. Reno-Tahoe Territory n East of Carson City The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. Minden was founded in 1904. Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide. valleys. In Gardnerville. US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city. including Western art and portraiture. US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341. 1477 Highway 395. and folks by the thousands came from all directions to unearth them. Housed in the 1915 high school building. Eight miles from the intersection of US 50 and NV 341. and a saddle collection from rodeo and film stars. the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral deposits ever found in this country.000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras.
Another huge vein was hit in 1873. May through October. period classrooms and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada. more than 15. Today. At the south end of town. Here. The good news is that the money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period structures open and in good repair. Admission prices range from donations to $3. the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold. A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street. the school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. with vendors hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock. shows off local minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins. is a looming. four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a wonderful museum. Admission is $3. a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. % 702-847-0757. Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. and within four years.000 people would be crowded into Virginia City. underground mine tours. Up C Street. Miners were already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s claim was found to contain $3. % 702847-0975.000 lived in Virginia City.000 a ton in silver. from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish. and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46. The building is open daily. Not recommended for claustrophobes. offering the spectrum of Virginia City history. The Comstock Lode had been struck. the Fourth Ward School on C Street. % 702-847-0777. delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. . leave regularly. The Marshall Mint Museum.72 n Reno-Tahoe Territory on the brown flank of Sun Mountain.
opium dens and medical and dental equipment that seems nothing short of barbaric. Admission is $2. including an old jukebox and player pianos. who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for the Territorial Enterprise here. is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. Admission is $2. Finally. rivals any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. a room in the basement of a saloon. The memory of Samuel Clemens. who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of the local fire department. Reno-Tahoe Territory .Touring n 73 Julia Bulette The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum. % 702-847-0525. complete with ornate chandeliers. Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House. Mark Twain’s Memories. 3. no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the northeast edge of town on a small. The Way It Was Museum. a 16-room mansion built in 1868 that. for a ride into yesterday. has a more eclectic collection. is dedicated mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock.50. most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of disrepair. The home is filled with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. The headstones and gravesites. is definitely not for the puritan. % 702-847-9394. % 702-847-0766. here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West. The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial Day through September. Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle. lives on in two buildings. % 702-847-0454. % 702847-0275. % 702-8470830.000 citizens turned out to see her killer hanged. windswept plateau. % 702-8470333. is open daily. June through October. are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long before the tourists arrived. The Mark Twain Museum. After she was murdered in 1867. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of Comstock life: prostitution. the height of culture when it was built in 1885. The museum is named for the city’s best-known working girl. Open daily. Its extravagant interior. Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street.
From here it’s due north into the sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. wild horses. US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. The first white man to describe this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin . Continuing east on US 50 another three miles. as did the state’s first marriage – and first divorce. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east about five miles to Sparks. % 702-673-1150. Several historic buildings survive in downtown. After another 20 miles. Past the intersection with NV 431. or mustangs. the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro Placement Center. then exit at NV 445. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. then take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. % 702-847-0311. the Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later. Built in 1860 to protect settlers following the Pyramid Lake Indian War. Ranching interests decry mustangs grazing on private land. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them here for adoption.74 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Information Sources Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce.000 in Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. Tours of the center must be arranged in advance by telephone. go 15 miles east to Silver Springs. appears in Palomino Valley. The first gold strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849. while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and save their hides. There is also a developed campground. After about eight miles. including Odeon Hall. number about 30. can also be reached via smooth highways: from US 50. The last true holdovers from the untamed West. n North of Reno It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the Nevada backcountry. Today. built in 1875 as a meeting place and opera house. % 702-577-2345. but a visitors center interprets the history of the area. little more than a few walls remain. The Byway’s terminus. Fort Churchill State Historic Park.
formed when calcium carbonate precipates out of the water onto rock formations. A reservation was formalized in 1874. From Nixon. Nearby.000 BC. an endangered sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of thousands of years. They will provide directions and hours of operation. % 702-547-0187. runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny town of Nixon. since at least 9. Just north of the marina. the world’s largest playa. boat ramp. the latest in a long line of Native Americans who have lived here. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme example. the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation. NV 445 dead ends at NV 446. The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan cutthroat troat that stock the lake. continues to surround the lake. or dry lake bed. this is the place to do it – unless. campground. Sandhole and Popcorn beaches.Touring n 75 trailblazer John C. If losing yourself is your goal. gives prearranged tours for icthyology fans. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake. a near-supersonic land rocket is in Reno-Tahoe Territory . the Pyramid Lake Fishway. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. Today. nine-mile-wide watering hole. store and museum. Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. selling permits and running fish hatcheries. the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and primitive campground. as well as the prehistoric cui-ui. The latter are fine specimens of tufas. gravel and sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The Needles. according to artifacts found in local caves. % 702-476-1156. who in his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake to the Pyramid of Cheops. South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe. the welcome mat for the Black Rock Desert. which runs north to the outpost of Sutcliffe and Pyramid Lake Marina. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid Lake Fisheries at % 702-476-0510. thus christening the 27-mile-long. Spreading north and east. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island. site of the ranger station. the road passes Wino. Fremont. boating and fishing are extra. Tribe members administer recreation activities. of course. Another 25 miles north via paved. offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation 8. Camping. a national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding ground for American white pelicans.182 feet) to the west. reaching the hamlet of Gerlach.
Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a landspeed record assault by a British team of speed demons. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley. spare tire. the gateway to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Besides antelope. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock Springs. food and warm clothes to spend several days out here if something unexpected happens. then head north 31 miles to NV 140. Again. and small mammals are common sights amid the sagebrush. Help can be a long way away.000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service land. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds. preparedness is imperative. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. % 503-947-3315. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation to the town of Denio Junction. TAKE CARE In this region. . one about six miles from town and another about 12 miles out. A highclearance vehicle is strongly recommended and. stealing the thunder of the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry enough to get a wrecker out here. Two “on ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach. songbirds. good maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. on 575. Let someone know where you are going and when you’ll be back. A shovel. The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once bounded across the West by the millions. even with one. and carry enough water. best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big Springs and Gooch Tables in winter.76 n Reno-Tahoe Territory the vicinity. camping and fishing safely in this very remote area. birds of prey. tow chain. The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno on I-80. the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because vehicles can quickly bog down. caution and common sense are key to traveling. about one mile south of NV 140.
” Reno-Tahoe Territory July Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival. % 702-329-7469. Carson Valley Days. and Carson City is the site of American Heat.Special Events n 77 Special Events March Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry. one of the Great Basin’s largest gathering of First Nations peoples. featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. % 702-265-5281. % 702-687-7410. May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days. % 702-882-1808. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. with food. In Gardnerville. % 702-782-2444. welcoming Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. is a rip-snortin’ affair. the Pony Express Re-Ride. In Reno. % 702-847-0311. % 702-782-2211. brings a parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo. is a fully supported 75-mile ride around Lake Tahoe. % 702-882-1283. June America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. August August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights. % 702-329-3877. features an old fashioned parade and arts and crafts. a weekend salute to the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. % 702-883-1352. % 702-847-7500. Carson City also hosts the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow. % 702-882-1802. bills itself as the “Wildest. water. brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to Carson Valley. the West Coast Wine Tasting Competition. is held in Sparks. reenacts the famous mail service and the Feathers Day Pow Wow. Carson City and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend. % 800-FOR-RENO. Richest Rodeo in the West. The Way It Was Rodeo. and roving vans offering repairs and emergency pick up. % 702-829-1955. an increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. In Carson City. a rolling custom car show. is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural Center. % 702-588-9658. The Minden Spring Arts & Crafts Streets Fair. % 702-588-6211. Night Curves. In Virginia City. heats up. Reno also . % 702-353-2291.
Street Vibrations. and the National Championship Air Races. the notorious Burning Man Festival. % 702-782-9711. the Native American Snow Dance. % 702-688-5767. and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry. climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the torching of a 40-foot wooden figure. October Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow. gather in Minden. September The famous International Camel Races. . % 702-827-7603. In the skies. is held in Reno. On the Black Rock Desert. takes place in Carson City. the Nevada State Fair. % 702-786-5700. deconstructionist Woodstock. % 702-329-1476. November The Celtic New Year Celebration. The Great Italian Festival. brings Harley-Davidsons to the streets of Reno and Sparks. % 702-329-7469. % 702-847-0311. In Incline Village. Reno hosts both the Great Reno Balloon Race. a sort of post-modern. % 702-972-6663. Adventures n On Foot Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike Between Reno and Lake Tahoe. the fantastic Jones CreekWhites Creek eight-mile loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake Tahoe. come to Virginia City along with a parade. and the Nevada Day Parade.78 n Reno-Tahoe Territory plays host to the Reno 500/National Truck Week. % 702-826-1181. attracts American Indians from many Western states. % 800-535-3045. and the famous Reno Basque Festival. % 702-832-1606. % 702-882-1565. fills Reno with pipe bands and dancers. % 702-885-6939.
& A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½ miles. including Asylum (5. The ridgetops and the summit are often very windy.14a). In Incline Village above Diamond Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. At the five-mile mark. then climbs in earnest toward the peak. Reno-Tahoe Territory Tahoe Basin Trails In the Tahoe Basin. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just beyond Mount Rose Campground. Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided routes. The Mount Rose Trail Up the road from Galena Creek. with parking on the left just south of the vista point. 1994. so dress appropriately. whips around a peak. The 14-mile Spooner Lake Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels. There are more than 20 routes. Overhangs present experts with 5.Adventures n 79 The trail heads northwest for a half-mile. the trail leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8. Arrive here at dawn or on a weekday to avoid the crowds. then switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on. including Jello Wars (5.11a and 5. all 5.11a). There are 10 routes. however. then climbs to a saddle. Falcon Press Publishing. The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult overhangs above and below US 50.000 feet. crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark.776 feet remains one of the most popular trails in the area. at the junction of US 50 and NV 28. Spooner Crag is found on a side road heading west just west of the intersection. Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village. Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe.11d) and Slayer (5. crosses Jones Creek and turns right. the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10. The crag is 75 yards uphill offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. . Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras. many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes. the trail goes downhill into the creek drainage.11c and heavier. including most of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. are more chilling than the mountain air. Farther south.12a opportunities. After crossing Galena Creek.
The charge for adults is $12. The trail winds about one mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak. Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage. Since the slide. This hike is certainly strenuous. the Oxbow Nature Study Area. % 702-847-WALK. To continue the hike on the Mount Rose Trail. so call first. climbing 3. % 702-6881893. a trail leads to one of the city’s highest points. with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley now far below. . NV 431. which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. offers a beautiful willow. the trail finds Upper and Lower Price Lakes. which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling streets. The last three miles follow an old jeep road alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s main gate. The trail ends at a highway. After another mile. On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park. High Rock Canyon One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most inaccessible. walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead. Customized walking and driving tours are also available. It is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson Road. Virginia City The best way to see Virginia City is afoot. for children $5. a subalpine beauty just south of the trail.80 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno For hiking in Reno proper. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left.and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake. as are group tours. The trail parallels Ophir Creek. Hours are seasonal.300 feet in just six miles. and one way to walk with an expert is with Detours. including great blue herons and birds of prey.260 feet. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails. elevation 8. Washoe Valley About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley. a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to returning to their full preslide size. but the views of Washoe Valley from Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort.
Adventures n 81 High Rock Canyon is an unforgettable stop. For road conditions and closures. As this is being written. For more information. contact the BLM. call the BLM at % 702623-1500. TIP The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source. Yellow Hills West and Badger Mountain Southeast. is a good overnight point. Reno-Tahoe Territory Desert National Scenic Trail The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. winds below sheer canyon walls that hide golden eagles. To reach the trailhead. Mahogany Mountain. OR 97441. write them at PO Box 20991. CA 94620. Mule deer and tundra swans are also seen. contact the DTA at PO Box 34. Oakland. the Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for eight sections. From here. For travel information. Madras.5-minute USGS quads of High Rock Lake. once the popular route of the Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s. great horned owls and other birds of prey. a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the British. who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. The trail. Note that the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. Yellow Hills East. . Stevens Camp. turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock Reservoir. as are 7. A hiking club called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail and preserving unspoiled spaces. or an extended overnighter with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the desert floor. about 19 miles northwest of the traihead. The group regularly leads guided hikes and welcomes new members. as it should have water and a wood-burning stove. % 916-279-6101. High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike. For more information. including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road.
PO Box 6145. Silver State Outfitters. % 702-623-1500. Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. NV 89502. to the soaring summit at 9.397 feet. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. It’s about eight miles to the reservoir. but they might also offer their services to hikers. Bighorn Outfitting. A steep. % 702-746-6878. Hiking Outfitters The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. 20 Daylily Court. Denio Junction. % 702-333-6795. the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended from here. To reach the trailhead from the nearest town. backpackers and photographers. % 702-832-5231. % 702-626-6916. 8550 White Fir Street.200 lung-burning feet. gaining 2. one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. take NV 140 west about 13 miles to a dirt road on the left. across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. Sparks. six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Duffer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir. Reno Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. 1135 Terminal Way.82 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Nevada Guide Service. NV 89450. terminus of the fairly flat. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS topo map comes in handy. Reno. % 702-851-1924. 490 Kietzke Lane. jogs through alpine meadows. NV 89511. Patagonia Outlet. The trail climbs a drainage northeast of the peak. set in a beautiful subalpine bowl. #111. On the east side of the reservoir. Most of them specialize in hunting and fishing. . % 702-322-9559. Outdoor Adventures. The lakes. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM sign on the left. Look for the Knott Creek sign. beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. Incline Village. Reno. 3335 Vista Boulevard. NV 89436.
% 702-323-5630. In the highlands near Mount Rose. and offers picnic rides. Strictly Scuba & More. % 702-885-7773. % 702782-7011. 155 East Moana Lane. 1675 East 4th Street. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and flumes designed and built in 1873. also rents horses. Sierra Mountaineer. while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch. Sporting Rage. In all four cases. % 702-3584824. contact Tin Cup Adventures. The 10-mile round-trip is classified as moderately strenuous. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three miles to Hobart . which parallels North Canyon Creek. % 702-849-0570. one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Wheels Biking Lake Tahoe High above Lake Tahoe. Zephyr Cove Stables. 4339 South Carson Street. the trail makes a high-altitude. Twin City Surplus. Vogl Trek USA. Sierra Spirit Ranch. 4375 South Carson Street. % 702-849-1020. call first for availability and directions. % 702-8252855. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. After about three miles. % 702-849-9651. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon Road. Carson City Kevin’s Ski & Sports. rents mounts by the half-hour and hour.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth the effort. offers ranch day trips. heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward Marlette Lake. n On Horseback On the shores of Lake Tahoe. 1941 North Carson Street. % 702588-5664. Near Washoe Lake State Park.Adventures n 83 Reno Mountain Sports. Old Washoe Ranch Stables. % 702884-3453. In Carson Valley south of Carson City. % 702-831-5465. leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains. % 702-8827779. welcomes visitors for extended ranch stays. 1201 Highway 395.
a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the border (where the road becomes NV 8A). The 12-mile path stretches from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee. at Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. To complete the loop. Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway Drive your troubles away on the lonely. then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the intersection with Tuledad Road. Reno The Truckee River Bike Path begins. and bikers are actually well regarded here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. make a straight shot southsouthwest on gravel NV 34. % 702-831-0494. For detailed maps. . Put simply. depending on point of view. % 916-279-6101. site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area office. From here.84 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Reservoir. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the famous Flume Trail. don’t screw it up. past such landmarks as Crabapple Ridge. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir 17 miles out. or ends. to Vya. the byway crosses the California border and runs due north. north of Pyramid Lake. 84 miles back to Gerlach. 21 miles from the intersection where you made the right turn onto CA 299. or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach Trailhead on NV 28. The half-paved. half-gravel drive begins in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination. 35 miles to the town of Cedarville. Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon. in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on the left. contact Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians. The animosity that often exists between these three user groups is not generally found at Tahoe. Continuing northwest on NV 447. and they must yield the right-of-way to both.
Great Basin Bicycles. 89502. Bobo’s Ski Shop. 89701. 89509. south of Carson City. % 702-747-1413. hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. 1993. % 702-8871333. Falcon Press Publishing. 89701. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. Reno Schwinn. % 702-825-8258. % 702883-3210.Adventures n 85 Carson City A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road. % 702826-0800. 235 East Plumb Lane. & According to Jeanne L. 1200 South Wells Avenue. % 702-3226001. 3450 Lakeside Drive. 89502. Biking Outfitters Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Bicycle Bananas. % 702786-5111. 89502. 1987 North Carson Street. Bicycle Warehouse. 89502. Carson City Capitol Bicycles. 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive. 1999 South Virginia Street. winter and spring. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas. along with Canada geese in fall. The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. call % 702-688-1500. For more information. % 702827-3277. . 4135 South Virginia Street. 89532. also known as NV 206. 500 North Carson Street. Excell Skates. Bike Brothers. Birds of prey such as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year.
Spooner Lake. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge near Markleeville. personal water craft and kayaks. turkey vultures. kingfishers. canoes. Incline Village Sierra Nevada Adventures. n On Water Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191. red-tailed hawks. 89701. % 702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current list of commercial float-trip operators.86 n Reno-Tahoe Territory The Bike Smith. % 702-588-3369. six miles south of Gardnerville. The Zephyr Cove Sailing Center. Entrance fee is $3 per car. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide. the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. 1685 Highway 395 South. PO Box 3007. & A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. California. % 702782-0867. at the junction of NV 28 and US 50. % 702-8825007.200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns.6 square miles of surface – so that boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot twice. approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville. 625 Fairview Drive. % 888831-4591 Minden Bike & Ski Sports. The trip. coyotes. mule deer and other wildlife along the river. Contact the US Forest Service. On the Nevada side. East Fork Carson River One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. a surfingskiing hybrid in which a small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat. ends near Washoe Tribe Campground. cutthroat and rainbows. 89423. rents powerboats. canoeists and kayakers can spot herons. 89450. offers 1. . which can take up to seven hours. Spooner Lake In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe. During spring and early summer. via NV 88 and CA 89. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing. Nevada.
the pond at Davis Creek County Park is stocked seasonally. with campground and restrooms. is a more natural setting for city-bound fishermen. two to three miles up a steep trail. are regularly stocked with rainbows. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. % 702-6874319. accessible through Davis Creek County Park due west of Washoe Lake. thanks to Sierra runoff. catfish dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface acres. still recovering from a devastating landslide three miles up the drainage. There are two boat ramps. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over. Idlewilde Park. Upper and Lower Price Lakes. Washoe Lake State Park About 20 miles south of Reno. For more adventurous angling. water levels. eight-pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the Virginia Street Bridge. % 702-688-1500. However. is a desert mecca for boaters and windsurfers. and charges a launching fee. A better option might be Ophir Creek. Reno-Tahoe Territory Gardnerville In suburban Gardnerville. the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. contact Nevada Division of Wildlife. although . drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border. Thousands of rainbow trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass. For moving-water anglers. only a mile west of downtown. primitive county boat ramp to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near Reno. For directions. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed. planting and licensing information. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park. Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the time or the inclination to travel out of town. Washoe Lake State Park. one of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. but in wet years. For the stalwart anglers. bullhead cats and brown and tiger trout. both on the eastern shore. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal. catfish and trout. The smaller. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass. shore anglers and fly fishermen on the same morning.Adventures n 87 Reno By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin.
the setting here is primative.88 n Reno-Tahoe Territory boaters are said to be more successful. Nevada Angler’s Guide. Wall Canyon Reservoir Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir. There are two boat ramps on the lake. or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno. brown and cutthroat trout are here for the taking for the adventurous angler. Plenty of excellent spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. see below. however. Squaw Creek Reservoir About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447. Boats with outboards are permitted. For more information. Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive conditions but fine fishing. Richard Dickerson reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the reservoir. Come prepared. a health advisory is still in effect. crappie and perch. used to separate gold and silver from ore. brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end. while rainbow. . The East Fork Carson River The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime angler’s low country. under Outfitters. During the days of the Comstock Lode thousands of tons of mercury. In his book. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. a road leaves NV 447 heading east eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. % 702-688-1500. Rainbow. The Carson River east of Carson City is another story. chief among them Duffurena Ponds for largemouth bass. and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and cutthroat trout. More than 100 years later. particularly along the unpaved Fort ChurchillWellington Backcountry Byway. boasts a handful of isolated spots. were dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. Camping is primitive. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp. in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon border. The reservoir is located on private land.
Don’s Fishing Charters. % 916-546-4444. NV 89502. Fishing Equipment These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Zephyr Cove. Reno Fly Shop.Adventures n 89 Watersports Outfitters Reno Mountain Sports. The Gilly. Mount Rose To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno. % 702-588-4916. equally divided among novice. % 702-825-2855. Mount Rose also offers lessons. With a base elevation of 8.260 feet. PO Box 10225. 96145. Tahoe City. 1111 North Rock Boulevard. head southwest from Reno up NV 431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose. . Zephyr Cove. Stateline. NV 89431. NV 89502. Sparks. 294 East Moana Lane. Tahoe Topliners. % 702-322-9559. % 916573-0753. 490 Kietzke Lane. % 800-SKI-ROSE or 702849-0704. 155 East Moana Lane. Mickey’s Big Mack Charters. % 702-358-6113. % 702-827-0600. PO Box 815.440 vertical feet of runs. intermediate and advanced. 89502. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1. NV 89448. rentals and a shuttle bus. Tahoe Sportfishing Co. NV 89448. Reno-Tahoe Territory n On Snow The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three welldeveloped alpine ski mountains and two cross-country centers. Reno. NV 89449. PO Box 1909. Master Guides These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master Guides. Snowboarders are welcome. CA. % 916-541-5448. Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods. Reno.. the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the smallest footprints in the West. PO Box 6506.
Incline Village. Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore. call Nevada Outdoor Recreation.000 feet above sea level. For a real adventure (without the gasoline fumes). 45% intermediate and 35% advanced.500 feet). . there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. rentals. trail pass) is $34. a new gondola and the famous tram. Heavenly. childcare and a shuttle bus are available. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee. Ask about midweek specials and package deals. Heavenly In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort.90 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village. NV. Heavenly has 18 chairs. rentals. % 702-749-5349. 1210 Ski Way. A beginner's Nordic package (skis rental. This is a monster of a mountain. For guided snowmobile treks in the Carson area. all-terrain skis.840 feet. Snowboarders are welcome. % 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177.000 to 9. % 800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. which include a pass. is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. lesson. The area boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7. not to mention great views of the lake. 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. rentals and a shuttle bus are available. % 702-7823047. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1. A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis. Spooner Lake Cross-Country. lesson. Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day. Lessons. boasts both downhill and cross-country runs. with the longest vertical drop (3. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-day). lessons. day tours and amateur races. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices. the greatest acreage (4. skate skis. Lessons.800) and the highest top elevation (10. Open 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays. there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails. and rental. hook up with the mushers at Husky Express.040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. % 702-831-8361. $8 after 3 PM). Diamond Peak. 89451. For cross-country fans. and/or snowshoes. who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area. Other Winter Sports If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff. six surface lifts.
89502. Snowind Sports. 800 Tahoe Boulevard. % 702-3226001. 321 Sky Way. 140 Vesta Street. Bobo’s Ski Shop. C&J Flight Aviation. % 702-3239463. 1685 Highway 395 South.600-foot-deep blue monster and ponder the meaning of life. Sundance Ski Company. Mogul Mouse. PO Box 19215. as well as the following locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory. % 702-849-0111. Reno-Tahoe Territory n In The Air Lake Tahoe Balloons. Sierra Mountaineer. % 702-358-4824. 89502. 16975 Mount Rose Highway.Adventures n 91 Snow Sports Outfitters Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above. Minden Bike & Ski Sports. Excell Skates. Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak. South Lake Tahoe. 209 Kingsbury. % 702-831-3537. % 702-588-5935. % 702782-0867. Incline Village Porter’s Ski & Sport. 89502. % 916-544-1221. 89451. 89502. Reno Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise. of- . % 702786-5111. % 702831-3500. 89502. % 702-329-5358. provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1. In Reno. CA 96151. % 702-786-7071. 2615 Mill Street. 89502. Galena Ski Rentals. 89423. Stateline House of Ski. 1200 South Wells Avenue. 1901 Silverada Boulevard. Serva Ski. 515 East Moana Lane. 855 Tahoe Boulevard. 89502. 2500 East 2nd Street. 89502. 89451. % 702-786-2020. % 702-8269096. 235 East Plumb Lane. % 702-831-2922. 89451.
offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over Carson Valley. Nearby is Caesars Tahoe. Lake Tahoe.92 n Reno-Tahoe Territory fers fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west. Harvey’s Resort. Tahoe Summit Village. $$$-$$$$. % 800-635-0066. . three. $$$$$$$.and fourbedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos. $$$-$$$$. The Douglas County Airport. the Sierras and. also features condo accommodations. has condos and a private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. Lake Village Vacations. has two. Harrah’s. on this site since 1944. HO TE L There are two four-star establishments here. a shopping arcade and its own airstrip. While they make wilderness preservationists cringe. boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. which offers 440 rooms in a 15-story tower. % 800-99-RIDGE. located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City. $$$-$$$$.. $$$-$$$$. of course. has 740 rooms. % 800-6483773. 750 Wells Fargo Lane. 398 US 50. % 702-784-4944. a dance club. wedding chapel and butler service in the suites ($199-$950 a night). $$$$. poolside service. % 800-648-3353. High Country Soaring. they do offer some of the best views of any lodgings anywhere. offers 534 rooms. % 800-427-8397. % 702-588-8571. eight restaurants. The upscale Ridge Tahoe. The question is how can a flight that’s powerless be so powerful? Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Stateline The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos.
the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis. Low-slung motels also abound in Reno. $$$-$$$$. $-$$. a rustic feel. lawn games. 111 Country Club Drive. Among the downtown locations. 210 North Center Street. % 800-731-6222. has balconies adjoining each of its five rooms. 407 North Virginia Street. which serves free continental breakfast. with more than 1.Where To Stay & Eat n 93 Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon. $$-$$$$. some of which look like they’ve been around since the 1860s.$$-$$$$. Incline Village This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels. % 702-8321234. $$-$$$. % 800-824-6391. high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. 300 rooms and a noisy casino. % 800-322-7723. the Cal-Neva Resort. $$-$$$. the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. Today.700 rooms on 38 floors. Crystal Bay At the northern end of Lake Tahoe. Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline. % 800- . % 800-225-6382. is the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake. 24 Highway 28. Reno-Tahoe Territory Reno Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early 1860s. % 800-687-8733. The Haus Bavaria B&B. the big daddy is the Silver Legacy. first-class. combines great views. US 50 at Kingsbury Grade. as well as a gym with instructor on site. Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. $$. $$$. $$. and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino. Harrah’s. % 702-831-0287. a private beach and exercise facilities with instruction. 2 Stateline Road. The Zephyr Cove Resort. % 702-588-6644. has 33 rooms. many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials. A perennial four-star winner. 1003 Tahoe Boulevard. and many of the rooms look exactly alike. 593 North Dyer Circle. giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the pits. There is a shopping arcade downstairs. % 800-624-7980. As in Las Vegas. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel.
There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. % 800-282-2444. Another impressive establishment at half the price is Deer Run Ranch. 3575 South Virginia Street. . and Vagabond Inn. $. has more than 1. an owner-built. passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm. $$. which features theme rooms. two heated pools and a hair salon. % 702-882-3643. which overlooks the state government center. the venerable Ormsby House Hotel.94 n Reno-Tahoe Territory 427-7247. Rates start at $195 per night. 345 North Virginia Street. % 800-622-1890. % 800-320-0627. also towers over the local strip malls with its 18 floors full of 600 rooms. 710 West Robinson Street. $$-$$$. $$. is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms. $$. $$$. $$$$. % 702-786-4070. $$$. % 702-825-7134. $$. % 800-648-1177. 2707 South Virginia Street. is a three-story. including a barber shop. % 702-827-0255. Away from downtown. 310 South Carson Street. Motel 6. Nearby. 3131 South Virginia Street. % 800-648-5966. has a heated pool. 500 North Sierra Street. $$. 701 East 7th Street. % 800-937-1436.700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true hotel-casino. a heated pool and other amenities. 1901 South Virginia. The standout lodgings are at Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. convention facilities and some impressive suites. $$. welcomes bargain hunters. an 1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer. boasts nearly 600 rooms. the Motel 6. 1100 Nugget Avenue. free airport shuttle and skier rates. 25-room holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. Circus Circus. John Ascuagua’s Nugget. Charles Hotel. 600 South Carson Street. % 702-358-1080. 5440 Eastlake Boulevard.000 rooms. Sparks Just east of downtown Reno. Carson City The state capital has one large hotel-casino. The St. the new Peppermill. % 800-723-6500. Freeway convenient. rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. the Eldorado. most notably the Days Inn. $$-$$$. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding Chapel. It has more than 1. Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first. % 800-723-6500. % 702-8821887. farther south of downtown at 3800 South Virginia Street. $$. The Atlantis. $. $$.
The Chollar Mansion. % 702-782-7644. % 702-782-9711. Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn. was established in 1859 and is the oldest operating hotel in Nevada. $$. 11 with private baths. two with private baths. and Pioneer. Most convenient to downtown are the City Center. Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge. % 800-962-0732. The motel has 40 rooms. was built in the late 1800s. 1431 Ezell Street. 1435 US 395. was built in 1861 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. $-$$. some with kitchenettes. 565 South D Street. with 58 rooms and live entertainment. 800 North Carson. the inn was built in 1872 by A. % 702-782-8720. The venerable Walley’s Hot Springs Resort. $-$$. $$-$$$. The quite rustic Gold Hill Hotel. $$. the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel. and the full-service Carson Valley Inn. offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor. $$. A threeroom home listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 8 South F Street. $-$$. and a casino. $$$. 300 Main Street. % 702-847-0111. 1979 US 395. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. It has four rooms. % 702-847-9777. 1643 US 395. 907 South Carson. 1540 Main Street. is the center of the action. boasts five rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. . $$$. Gardnerville Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile. % 702-8825535. 2332 Main Street. 180 Nixon Street. $$. The Topaz Lodge & Casino. The Crooked House.C. 2001 Foothill Road.Where To Stay & Eat n 95 A number of cheap. Gerlach The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club. Genoa The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings. % 800-321-6983. There are 13 rooms. has five rooms. Pratt. It has four rooms. % 702-882-3046. $. was built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion. % 702-782-7075. Its four rooms were recently refurbished. #800-628-7831. 1627 US 395. including the small Genoa House Inn. % 702-847-0521. % 702-782-5697. for weary wanderers. generic motels abound in Carson City. $-$$. $$-$$$. % 702-557-2220. $$$.
4201 West 4th Street. no TVs and. $. coffee shops. 210 North Sierra Street. The dining room closes at 10 PM and the bar is open until 4 AM. is a rousing pub with good food. For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine. Ichiban. the menu features wild game and breads baked on site. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage Room at Harvey’s. Open for dinner only. offers outdoor dining with views of the lake. Famous Murphys. try the Glory Hole. Steak. The hotels. % 702-941-0371. % 702-323-5550. The French cuisine is made with fresh. % 702-323-3200. the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. % 702-825-1250. Open for dinner only. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is Pimparel’s La Table Française. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. 3065 West 4th Street. also run the gamut with delis. % 702-827-4111. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel Saloon & Gambling Hall. 328 Kingsbury Grade. % 702-588-6276. a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver Rush mining camp. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course. . a casino. The restaurant also does its own baking. serves fresh Japanese steak.96 n Reno-Tahoe Territory Denio Junction The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio Junction Motel. % 702-588-2411. the lake’s first casino. the menu changes every two months. the lights of the city are a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. Reservations are recommended. seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu. ethnic food and full buffets. Reno Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare and first-class menus. including a seafood and oyster bar. One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole. of course. along with Caesars Tahoe. seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner. % 702-786-1323. 1200 Razorback Road. n Restaurants Stateline One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s. 3127 South Virginia Street. The Chart House. seasonal ingredients. % 702-588-6611. The place has 14 rooms.
507 North Carson Street. 1112 North Carson Street. % 702-8262121.Where To Stay & Eat n 97 Among the hotel-casinos. is known as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. 1301 North Carson Street. % 702-348-9297. Silvana’s. offer full-blown food courts open from morning until late in the evening. to Le Moulin at the Peppermill. 2707 South Virginia Street. 1020 North Carson Street. % 702-847-0111. % 702-356-3300. The Carson Nugget Steak House. % 702-8835100. % 702-882-4556. Adele’s. Two blocks away. The real attraction here is the colorful murals on the inside walls. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away. The Carson Nugget also offers the ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop. % 702882-1626. % 702-785-7000. 4389 South Carson Street. Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in Barbary Coast decor. The large hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado. dinner only on weekends. the Eldorado. and Peppermill. Reno-Tahoe Territory Virginia City The Crown Point Restaurant. one of the top Italian eateries in country. South of the city center and south of the border. this is the place. % 702786-5700. is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays. Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget. adjacent to the 1859 Gold Hill Hotel. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican fare. Carson City A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box. 234 North Virginia. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Boasting a large Italian menu. There is also an extensive wine list. % 702-882-0486. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck. 402 East William Street. Silvana’s specializes in pasta. El Charro Avitia. % 702-882-3353. Heidi’s. 255 North Sierra Street. is another neighborly hangout serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. seafood and steak. serves fine French cuisine. % 702-689-7226. is known for protein-powered Western cuisine. . 1540 Main Street. but for a hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger. and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton. % 702-883-6261. is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday.
Mount Rose has running water. 2500 East 2nd Street. including Virgin Valley. % 702-8822766. Nightly fees are $6. 735 Mill Street. About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge. Set at 8. There are 44 campsites here. % 916-279-6101. The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly undeveloped campgrounds. % 702-322-2281. Camping at Washoe Lake State Park. Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends. California. nine for RVs. Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV 431. Open May through October. Big Spring Reservoir. the campground has 24 sites. the campground has 54 sites and running water. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees. % 702-323-3381. with 152 sites and rates around $15 per night. Open June through September. Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. Call the Cedarville. The overnight fee is $7. office of the BLM. is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. lies south of the river. operates a number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe.900 feet. which straddles the Nevada-California border. some for RVs and some for tents. Rates run about $18 per night. the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground. The nightly fee is $5. off NV 428 about 15 miles south of Reno. call % 702266-3343. approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. for more information. If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County Park.98 n Reno-Tahoe Territory n Camping The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District. . The overnight rate is $12. Simply wonderful. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer Park. On the Nevada side. Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake. Reno RV Park. Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. % 702-789-2000. Showers are available. The campground is extremely popular in summer months. % 702-687-4319. % 916-573-2600. On the Lake Tahoe shoreline. 1300 West 2nd Street. For information and fees. with 265 sites starting at around $20 per night. The largest is behind the Reno Hilton. Fort Churchill State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the trees near the Carson River.
tore between stations. California. Orphans preferred. Beginning in April 1860. willing to risk death daily. and Sacramento. one of the most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune. the gutsy riders. station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for good. pausing only long enough to change mounts. Bible and mail pouch. Pony Express Territory follows a corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border.. In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. carrying only a pistol. The region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between St. Incredibly. Want ads called for “Young. Surrounded on three sides by the Toiyabe National Forest. wiry fellows not over eighteen. South of Like an artery running through the center of Ne- Pony Express Territory . Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local chambers of commerce.. Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart.Pony Express Territory vada. Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those riproaring days when the frontier was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. 1861. US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures. skinny. Missouri. On October 24. Within an hour of Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway. the tiny burg of Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Joseph.” Riders. but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation. the delivery time was as little as 10 days. Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony Express termini.
A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the living relic of Eureka. with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in.963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley. there is excellent skiing. .100 n Pony Express Territory Austin. hiking and wildlife viewing. spans some of the most beautiful. Great Basin. As might be expected. ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50.” Towns are separated by at least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack extras of everything. Near the town of Ely. Ranging in elevation from 3. But most travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of Reno. which is another thriving adventure-oriented community. especially now that the freewheeling gold and silver rushes are things of the distant past. so be prepared for anything.000 feet in the Toquima and Toiyabe ranges and 13. thunder showers and heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns. US 50 is also directly accessible east of the capital of Carson City. The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in Pony Express Territory. It also harbors a wildly varying climate. the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. ridges and valleys in the country.063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. a unique state park and a handful of the largest wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered. But if you consider solitude. traveler’s services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America. glacier-carved peaks. this area has plenty to offer. uncrowded trails and mind-bending scenery to be luxuries too. one of the nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks. Touring A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts Californians and Utahns. Just a few hours from Ely. The basins are dominated by typical high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that bring occasional rain and snowstorms. In the higher mountains.
Pony Express Territory 101 Touring n .
flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient Native American villages. below. the hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. During the busiest days of the Emigrant Trail. White-faced ibis. 1050 South Maine Street. encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. snowy plovers.102 n Pony Express Territory n Fallon A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward. noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung them on trees to dry. About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area. canvasbacks. pelicans. covers 77. . In recent years.500 acres of one of the most important stops on the Pacific Flyway. (See On Water. the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM. April through December. The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years. burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3.000 people.000 years. Fallon is also worth at least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. often a bone of contention between farmers and conservationists. pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile Desert. In peak years.000 photographic images. as well as water diversion for agricultural use. % 702-423-3677. great blue herons and whistling swans are other commonly found species. % 702-867-3500. Sunday. With 10. Today Fallon is a bustling little hamlet of nearly 8. is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. and Sunday noon to 5 PM. January through March. % 702-423-5128. 1000 Auction Road.000 ducks and an equal number of shorebirds.) On the northeastern edge of Fallon.000 acres of surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline. The Churchill County Museum & Archives. as well as the state’s largest population of wintering bald eagles. Admission is free. Over 14. green-winged teals. the refuge shelters upwards of 350. The museum also houses county records dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100. peregrine falcons. the lake is a favorite getaway spot for locals.000 square feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the pioneers who helped close the frontier. the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown.
On the south end of town. Round House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native artists. Besides regaling visitors with his tales. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Free tours begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and fourth Saturday of each month. The hunting season usually opens in October. Naval Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. From prop-driven torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets. but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips. Just off the highway are two short trails. Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces.Touring n 103 Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area. Pony Express Territory . One of the finest petroglyph sites in the West. and “management” means hunting. NAS Fallon has long been a proving ground for Naval Aviators.000 years ago. located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. At press time. this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native Americans.000 years of stratigraphy are exposed in the cave. Every spring. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders along a gravel road. a Chippewa and Native American activist who organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71. Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and storeroom for the original Nevadans. Adam Fortunate Eagle. Over 8. one through a boulder field and another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road. he was in the process of building Earth Lodge Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society. near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads. is the artist in residence here. which is open only twice a month for guided tours. which features the famous Blue Angels. More than 21. Just east of town. The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological Area. the station hosts one of the country’s largest air shows. Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native American works of art.
NV 89406. Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce. % 702-423-2544. Information Sources Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority. but strenuous. Fallon. 100 Campus Way. But beware: the area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors). wild West. volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild. undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. fauna. as well as Overland Mail and telegraph stations. Near the station. A hike to the precipice is a safe. about three miles past West Gate. dark. geology and history of the region. volcanic cliffs around it. a fenced (to protect it from off-road vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here. the top of Sand Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. n Austin On the way from Fallon to Austin. Beyond the tree about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station. Sand Mountain is a 600-foot-high. There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora. listen for the mountain’s “singing.” Booms. one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown. NV 89406. regularly emanate from the dune. roars and moans. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was named a National Historic Site. the low. . Fallon.104 n Pony Express Territory About 25 miles east of Fallon. keep a sharp eye out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. % 702-423-4556. 379 West William Avenue. One of the only trees for miles around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes.” meaning sword. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony Express stop. If the roar of engines ever dies down. Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf. caused by billions of sand particles rubbing together.
Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. picturesque holdover from the days of the mineral rushes. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8. which includes the 1863 newspaper office. The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50. know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding Toiyabe National Forest.000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the town exploded with activity. Both drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. PO Box 1149. The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. PO Box 212.Touring n 105 From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the wide Reese River Valley. Set on the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001 (Pete’s Summit Road). then past Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. Round Mountain. as well as the launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see Adventures below). Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy. % 702-964-2200. a series of three pools that was once home to a long-gone re- Pony Express Territory . Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. NV 89310. Austin. 13 miles east of Austin. is available from the Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. However the rush began. which rolls north 20 miles back to the junction with US 50. As always. The dirt roads are generally passable during good weather. Austin is a quiet. Six miles later. A guide to the 16-stop walking tour. but some of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US 50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era. then climbs again to Austin. Spencer’s Hot Springs.350 feet.577 feet. NV 89045. 1864 Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle. but always check conditions before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region. the double-track runs through the town of Kingston Village. past Bob Scott campground. population about 300. then to paved NV 376. % 702-964-2145. The experienced guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters. the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon. the fact is that by the 1870s more than 10. Three miles later. the boom was followed by the bust.
The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn into the top of a white. is recommended for serious. surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both sides. the road runs through Sam’s Canyon.500 years ago. % 702-964-2200. the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips north back to US 50. The limestone cavern. A long. Austin. experienced cavers only. PO Box 212.000-footers of the Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. A series of safe. There is also a free campground here. Just across Northumberland Pass (7. NV 89820.106 n Pony Express Territory sort. At mile 30. travertine hill that is visible for miles around. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs. small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark this important spot between 200 and 1. hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11. Judging by the materials analyzed in the pictographs. . After merging with Lower Mine Road. Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50. a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip. NV 89310. accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds among the rocks. which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse. PO Box 1420. are open to visitors just off the road. The area is easily accessible (except after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the highway. Information Sources Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District. % 702635-4000. Over the summit and onto the eastern feet of the Toquimas. situated on a hillside on the west side of the road. Battle Mountain. which boasts a set of mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1.000 years ago. passing Northumberland Cave seven miles later. as well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin. At mile 55. near Pete’s Summit. Be sure to close all gates on your way in and out. Use caution here and stay out of the pool.430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. The hill is located on private land. The road heads northwest through Big Smoky Valley. the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon. then heads due south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44.
stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond Mountain. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind Virginia City). some a little less gloriously than others. and Tuesday through Saturday from October through March. The shell of the building. A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse. It fell into dis- Pony Express Territory . Gold mines. Two other living relics are the two-story Tatti’s Saloon. completed in 1880 and still in use today. contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce. Not until five years later. complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. NV 89316. PO Box 14.Touring n 107 n Eureka About 70 miles east of Austin.000 made it the second-largest city in the state. however. but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that remain of the smelters. and the Jackson House Hotel. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era buildings still standing. Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. Eureka. dates from 1877. % 702-237-5484. Still. are still a major facet of the local economy. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September. By 1878. the first 100 years of mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals. where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans in 1879. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until it ceased publishing in 1960. The building. Eureka. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s glory years. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West. But by 1890 the rush was over.” Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell victim to the furnaces. one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880. Eureka’s population of 9. boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the lead from the silver. which is still in use as a bed and breakfast. But the grand dame of the town is the Eureka Opera House. another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town. open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM. The state’s No. but most definitely worth a gander. found in the valleys around Eurkea. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47 historic sites.
US 50 rolls across basin and range. % 702-237-5484. Treasure City had seven saloons for its 1. across Jakes Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. Monday through Friday and by appointment. running south into the Humboldt National Forest. n Ely Back on US 50. first called Cave City when it was founded following an 1867 silver strike. but today only a few buildings and foundations remain.500 residents. and today it serves as an auditorium and community center. Pronounced EE-lee. Information Sources Eureka Chamber of Commerce. A few miles farther south. the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero William Tecumseh Sherman. about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93. Shermantown and Eberhardt haunt the area.108 n Pony Express Territory repair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. Singer Eddie Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in search of silver ore. About 12 miles down the road is the ghost town of Hamilton. Situated at 9. Eureka. this mini-city (population about 5. because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than waste time building homes. the ghost hamlets of Treasure City. the town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers.000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin.000 feet. over Pancake Summit and Little Antelope Summit. and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and school. n Ghost Towns From Eureka. NV 89316. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM. PO Box 14. Entering town at night .
Admission is free. NV 89301. Pony Express Territory . Set among the pinyon pine and juniper at 7. when the railroads were the state’s lifeline. the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road. turn-of-the-century diesel ore train. Since they went cold in the 1880s. former First Lady Pat Nixon. The White Pine Public Museum. a bicycle. Call for exact dates and times. depot. Tours of the railroad yard. 2000 Aultman Street. head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486 (Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park. as well as an original. engine house. is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano. One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. On the other side of town. PO Box 150040. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM. which become cross-country ski routes in winter months. % 702-289-2085. the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir. depart on selected dates from May through September. Prices start at $10 per person.50 per person. like many museums in this territory. accessories.300 feet. running water. East Ely. About six miles southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. located on East 11th Street. which heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. The flagships at the museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910 4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. This is really a whistle-blast from the past. also pays homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native. with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin. taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. % 702-728-4467. showers and hiking trails. There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites. The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town.Touring n 109 can be quite dramatic. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties. machine and blacksmith shops and other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2. The museum. clothing. % 702-2894710. Return to US 50. There is primitive camping here. furniture.
Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. % 800496-9350. the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial gateway.110 n Pony Express Territory Starting in late fall. 636 Aultman Street. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and congregate here near the highway. % 702-289-4865. Great Basin is not only one of the country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. For more information. n Great Basin National Park If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno. It’s still a long leg east of Ely on US 50. In 1922. 150 6th Street. drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s visitor center. well-suited for foot-propelled adventure. From Baker. As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is.000-acre national monument centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after bickering by local ranchers. Information Sources White Pine Chamber of Commerce. 1986. 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487 south. the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center. a proposal to create a 6. Bristlecone Convention Center. Sightings of huge six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the Ely Elk Viewing Area. which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to US 50. While hikers are welcome. mountain bikes are barred from trails and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. this federally protected wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it.000 people a year visit the park. Only about 70. % 702-234-7331. Most of the 77. In the 1950s a . % 702-289-8877. sometimes by the hundreds. it did not come into being without a protracted struggle. Check with rangers about access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads. Designated a national park in October. contact the Ely office of the BLM. That leads quickly to Baker.000 acres of parkland are untraveled. untamed backcountry.
Baker. ski resorts and tramways. environmentalists still decry the fact that the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. are hard to beat. there are concerns that the park may be woefully small to preserve a healthy. or speleotherms: stalactites. too. who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations. Prices are $4 for adults. Pony Express Territory Information Sources Great Basin National Park.000 to 44. While celebrating a victory.) Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months. All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13. diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present boundaries. stalagmites. the park’s crown jewel. columns. are held every day except Thanksgiving. after haggling over acreage figures ranging from 174.000. nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves. NV 89311-9702. . flowstone and soda straws. limited to 30 people at a time. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield formations. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern.000-acre national park was again rebuffed by local interests. Call ahead for conditions.086-acre Great Basin National Park. Christmas and New Year’s Day. (See On Foot and Camping.067-foot Wheeler Peak. Besides checking out Lehman Caves. below. but were then forced to fight off plans for paved roads. Tours of the cavern. % 702-234-7331. most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to catch roadside views of the mountain. among others. Congress settled on 77. by far Great Basin’s most popular attraction. The more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. Tickets are available at the visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling % 702-234-7331 x242. which is actually one huge cavern. then head straight out of the park. Conservationists not only had to settle for the 28. Finally. the first white discoverer was Absalom Lehman.Touring n 111 plan for a 150. $3 for juniors. draperies. in 1986. The high-altitude campgrounds.000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area. And even if the invasive livestock were banned.
The trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only sporadically since then.000 feet. which has picnic tables and shade trees. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon. More maps and information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District. South Toiyabe Peak. Millet Ranch. rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area. Bakeoven Creek. The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead. To reach Garnet Hill. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes. which can take a few days to get acclimated to. Set at 7. The garnets found here. Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail.500 feet and climbs quickly to over 10. south into Arc Dome Wilderness.112 n Pony Express Territory Adventures n On Foot Garnet Hill Recreation Area Just west of Ely. Tierney Creek. . or magnesiumaluminum garnet. take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth. to reach the village of Kingston. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon.600 feet. a few of which are even of gem quality. Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink rhyolite found everywhere. either take unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles. along the spine of the Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest. or use paved NV 376. % 702-9642671. are spessartite. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. Drive three miles to the recreation area. Arc Dome. Carvers NW. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to the trailhead. which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley.
as is carrying plenty of water for each person. Because thunderstorms can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes. % 702-289-3031 for more information. The trail ends just before the summit.000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness. Baker. This is some serious highcountry hiking.067 feet is the fifth-highest peak in the state. The area’s claims to fame are The Table. is marked with trailhead signs. From the trailhead/parking area. If threatening clouds approach.Adventures n 113 Mount Moriah Wilderness As stunning as it is isolated. TAKE CARE At Great Basin National Park. situated in the Snake Range and surrounded by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on The Table.000 feet along rocky. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weatherresistant clothing are a must. follow the Hendrys Creek drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary. high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine vegetation and bristlecone pine. 1. can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town. eventually reaching a beautiful forest of aspens after a steep ascent. This rough road through the old Hatch quarrying area. one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the 82. leave the high country immediately. difficulty breathing) and descend if they appear. where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. To reach the trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker). which heads west toward the peak. check weather forecasts at the visitors center before heading out. with many trails climbing above 10. Old Man’s Canyon and The Cove. and Mount Moriah. The wilderness. which at 12. windswept paths. as well as all the water you will need. don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly trails found at other national parks. head north on unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. Contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. headache. a unique. nausea. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip hike that covers more than 5.000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. After about 10 miles of hiking. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah.000-acre. which may be impassable when wet. set aside in 1989. Pony Express Territory . the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton Creek Trail. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (dizziness.
then descends to Teresa Lake. The bowl. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock field left behind by the retreating glacier. legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way. Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. the views of the 8.114 n Pony Express Territory Wheeler Peak Trail The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the West. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10. Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. Continue straight. the last 1. begin at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Turn left here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop.000 feet and climbs moderately for the first mile. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. To reach the summit. If it is safe to venture to the peak. Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13.000 feet of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. The Alpine Lakes Trial The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa lakes. In 1878. where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a halfmile beyond the Wheeler Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the Wheeler Peak Trail. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead parking lot.140) and towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques.000foot vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. At 13. then turn left again.063 feet. Use extreme caution here. the six-mile . or cirque. then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward Stella Lake. in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the grinding action of a glacier. This is another depression etched by a glacier. Finally. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction. a half-mile above Wheeler Peak campground.
which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes as “primitive. This is the time to begin looking for Baker Lake.Adventures n 115 round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to an intersection. a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground.” Follow this exposed route toward 11. Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon. To continue the loop hike. After about three miles. In good weather. set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded by high peaks. TIP Pony Express Territory Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy Peak. and even a single needle might be 40 years old. Turn left. just off to the east. ? DID YOU KNOW? Living only in these harsh. the bristlecone is unlike any other tree on Earth. this is a nice overnight stop. To return to the trailhead. the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4. Wheeler Peak. the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead. heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier.950 years. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen. The 16mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip gains 2.700 feet in the first seven miles. subalpine conditions. once the site of some mining activity. starting straight up the Baker Creek drainage. . A small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove. Lehman Caves. Baker Lake Trail An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the terminus of Baker Creek Road. The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier. then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake. Return the way you came. Around mile six. begin a sometimes steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake Trail.926-foot Pyramid Peak. Kious Spring.
is worth a gander. 203 Heritage Drive. 89301. 5030 Reno Highway. % 702-289-4468. 2005 Harrigan Road. HCR 33. % 702423-9215. White River Guide Service. 1707 Rice Road. 89406. Flying M Stables. located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95. % 800-874-0903. 701 Avenue F. % 702-423-5185. % 702-423-6171. Sportsworld. 1050 Aultman Street. PO Box 2560. % 702-289-8886. 89301. 3125 Stark Lane. 89301. 89301. 89883. n On Wheels Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex If the roar of engines raises your hackles. Ely Bull Ridge Guide Service. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and an Indy-car oval. . % 702235-7439. HC 34. 89406. Silver State Stables.116 n Pony Express Territory Hiking Outfitters Fallon Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter. 89301. % 702-2893063. The following offer trail rides or riding lessons: Dankae Arabians. % 702-289-4208. Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 89406. Daum. % 702-4239215. Wildlife West Guide Service. % 702-664-2977. 2011 Indian Lakes Road. Great Basin Inn. sells camping and outdoor equipment. 89301. Burdick Guide Service. Wendover George A. Box 33570. As of presstime. % 702-867-3388. 89406. 89406. PO Box 34005. state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races were underway. 189 Aultman Street. % 702-238-5232. J & P Auto Parts. a quartermile.
ATV and motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the mountain) at the rate of 35. alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and aspen. Near here the trail turns off the pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four miles. where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to Austin. where bikers can relive the experi- Pony Express Territory . A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west for another three miles. Austin. % 702-964-2671.000 feet in the first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. one would think tiny Austin.Adventures n 117 Sand Mountain If you’d rather participate than watch. Here a rocky double track leaves the road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route. crosses US 50 and continues on a double track. off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain. population 300. PO Box 130. There is primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter.300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. NV 89310. the sixstory. All vehicles are required to have spark arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. % 702-885-6000. Austin. then finally heads downhill to an intersection. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at Austin’s rodeo arena. PO Box 504. % 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. Austin By its hip marketing campaign. contact the BLM. Take a left turn to fly down into Cahill Canyon. Dune-buggy. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps. A 10-mile loop with a 1. NV 89310. two-mile-long sand dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. For more information. contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain Bikes. For more information. is the fat-tire capital of the Silver State. There are pit toilets but no running water or firewood. brochures and campgrounds.000 per year. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1. The route runs north out of the canyon.
and bring plenty of water. then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until the road peters out into a foot trail. sells and services bicycles. 1500 Aultman Street. Lexington Arch Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker. one of the area’s unique geologic features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that. TAKE CARE Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with Great Basin National Park. From the pavement. . Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to a fork. for maps. The route is covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch.118 n Pony Express Territory ences of the 19th-century riders. directions and road conditions. Biking Outfitters Ely Sportsworld. % 702-234-7331. there is a short but steep climb back into Austin. Don’t count on the creeks to be running. when the weather is dry. between the Utah village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. past the US Forest Service station. % 702-289-8886. is suitable for a 4WD vehicle. The trail turns west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. where the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50. The road to the arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker. The road heads southwest toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before dead-ending at another dirt road.
Adventures n 119 n On Water Lahontan State Recreation Area About 17 miles west of Fallon. Children under 12 as well as nursing women. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes. with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. pregnant women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether. % 702-688-1500. Anglers will find white and largemouth bass. so adventurers are advised to come fully prepared. About 10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley. There are a number of beaver ponds in the area. Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed. Big Creek hides rainbows and brownies. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the sportfishes’ favorite prey. In 1997. where worms and corn are said to work best. along with sportfishing. Austin Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren. Lahontan State Recreation Area. off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the western edge of the lake. walleye and catfish waiting for lures and live bait between May and September. White crappie can be hooked March through May. The trout limit is 10. TAKE CARE Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling – exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per month of fish caught here.000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area. Pony Express Territory . A good map is available from area headquarters along US 50. surrounds a 10. Boat ramps are located in two spots.
A few chain HO TE L . % 702-289-3063. which is called Williams Avenue within the city limits. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Fallon There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50. moving-water anglers will find plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line.120 n Pony Express Territory About 22 miles south of Austin. approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness. J & P Auto Parts. The Upper Reese River. with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. Fishing Outfitters Ely The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice: Sportsworld. are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and brook trout. % 702-289-4468. and one of the best bargains. via paved NV 376 and a three. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of the BLM. % 702-289-4865. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting. which feeds the lake. $-$$. About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50. 1050 Aultman Street. 701 Avenue F. The Bonanza Inn & Casino. holds wild brook and rainbow trout. Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and browns. % 702-423-6031.to five-mile dirt excursion from the town of Kingston Village. the lake and creek are more easily accessible from the east. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in these popular locales. 855 West Williams Avenue. 1500 Aultman Street. is one of the biggest places in town. On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin. % 702-289-8886. Great Basin Inn. Groves Lake and Kingston Creek.
% 702-423-4254. has 27 rooms. % 702-237-5334. which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. $-$$. 70 East Williams Avenue.Where To Stay & Eat n 121 operations are also situated on the main drag. and. but after a long day on the road.800 acres. with 10 rooms. Call for information. % 702-964-2471. Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street. the 22-room Value Inn. most of which are on US 50. Austin’s two other motels are located on the same block. which is north-south running US 95. basic equipment. is a unique establishment located approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon). $-$$. The reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. % 702-423-4648. which has 30 rooms. the two-story EconoLodge/Downtown. the Pony Express House. also called Main Street here. 25 North Taylor Street. 180 West Williams Avenue. combines a B&B with a private. which has 49 rooms. $-$$. a heated pool and interior corridors. has 21 rooms. $. It is open seasonally. try Jackson House B&B. instruction. who really cares. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel. 1830 West Williams Avenue. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50. 1705 South Taylor Street. including the Comfort Inn. the first stop is the tiny Pony Canyon Motel. On the east end of town. gutted in an 1880 fire that de- . % 702-423-5151. % 702-964-2698. The Sundown Lodge. Packages include wet and dry fly fishing. which has 17 rooms. % 702-237-5247. set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2. Pony Express Territory Eureka Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings. $$$. % 702-423-2194. while on the southern edge of town. is a modern. For a real blast from the past. $. % 702-423-2277. has 17 rooms. The ranch. meals and overnight accommodations. called Main Street as it runs through town. $$. the Budget Inn. As you drive in from the west. The Nevada Belle Motel. On the corner is the cheapest of the lot. The red brick structure was built in 1877. is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with just two rooms. % 702-964-2306. $-$$. $-$$. Smith Creek Ranch. $$. % 702-423-5554. $-$$. a heated pool and a small casino. 115 Northwest Main Street. $$$. trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. % 702-9642605. The Eureka Motel. rates and directions. right in the center of what action there is in Fallon. % 702-237-5577. the Lincoln Motel. Austin Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz. $. three-story motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town.
try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B. 930 Aultman Street. 700 Avenue I. % 702-289-4497. located just down the highway from the Copper Queen. the Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel. There are two Best Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel. There are also private balconies. It reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small. has 21 rooms. $$-$$$. two-story hotel. the 21-room Park-Vue Motel. % 702-289-8900. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store. try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino. % 702-2891234. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts. there is something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. which has 19 rooms. 1501 Avenue F. For a more modern taste. 5th . 1101 Aultman Street. The 47-room Jailhouse Motel. 701 Avenue I.300. and its twin. has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. % 702-289-8838. Constructed as a meeting house in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as charcoal makers in the Eureka area). has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. The Bristlecone Motel. % 702-289-6665. The hotel was established in downtown Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. a library and a landscaped lawn with a gazebo. the 15-room Colonnade Hotel. which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93 and Avenue F on the east side. which has 61 rooms. $-$$. The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. is another living antique. while the two-story Four Sevens Motel. the inn has five rooms with private baths. 501 Aultman Street. There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. % 702-237-9988. For a more genteel stay. % 702289-6671. % 702-289-4747. % 702-289-8687. 770 Avenue O. $-$$. $. One of the largest establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6. % 702-289-4884. when it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. 500 High Street. $$. The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino. $-$$$. $. $-$$. the building was vacant 10 years later. 220 East 11th Street. then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s. Most of the rooms are on or near US 50.122 n Pony Express Territory stroyed a number of buildings. $-$$. has an indoor heated pool with jacuzzi. Ely With a population of more than 5. located on the south side of town off US 93. as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. $-$$. Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street. the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all types of rooms. After years of dormancy. The inn is open June through September.
At presstime there were two places to stay in town. South of Baker at the national park boundary. % 702-234-7323. the ones in this region sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners. % 702-289-3800. which has a laundromat and showers. % 702234-7323.. the Border Inn. and Whispering Elms RV Park. and two others outside of Baker. The Silverjack Motel. % 702-234-7343. % 702-237-7302. what with its 29 rooms. then backtrack west a few miles to the ranch. which has 25 sites for motor homes and tent campers.Where To Stay & Eat n 123 and High streets. so call ahead for operating hours. $. % 702234-7300.. % 702-234-7272. with its seven rooms. Pony Express Territory n Restaurants Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express Territory. Baker. is a favorite spot for travelers. Utah. The other in-town options are Mountain View RV Park. Like mom-andpop eateries everywhere. $-$$. Baker Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely. is located on NV 487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. NV 89311. guided tours and off-road adventures. 24hour laundromat and showers. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel. PO Box 90. $-$$. the tiny town of Baker has enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986. 150 4th Street.er. % 702-289-4411. $. $. Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border. 1301 Aultman Street. is located on the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell” numbers. Behind the Silverjack. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV 487 southeast seven miles to Garrison. $. the most cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail. offers tipis and a campground. It is open June through August. % 702-289-3033. . Information Sources Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce. and the White Pine Motel. along with horseback riding. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. % 702-234-7267. even fast food joints are nonexistent. Hidden Canyon Guest Ranch.
The Mexican food at La Cocina. 1955 McClean Road. thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for nearly four decades. have been serving great burgers. is home to The Diner. % 702-423-5588. and the glory days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day. try Mary’s Owl . is also open for three squares a day. % 702-867-2769. If your mind is on pizza. serves everything from burgers to fish and pasta. % 702-964-2220. Open for breakfast. cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge. Burger King and a handful of pizza joints. Toiyabe Café. % 702-964-9905. The International Café and Bar. however. % 702-423-2117. specializing in omelets and steaks. is Fallon’s only coffee house. serves up steaks. Today a few farms still grow the waterintensive crop. Denny’s. is known throughout Fallon. % 702-423-6166. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. including the few eateries. Kentucky Fried Chicken. In the 1920s and ‘30s. Stockman’s Casino. seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Café Nations. 960 Auction Road.124 n Pony Express Territory Fallon Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. with huge portions of Mexican and American fare. ? DID YOU KNOW? Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their strange hold on Fallon. 4150 Reno Highway. the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most of the growers. Williams Avenue (US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments. % 702-423-3233. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In. In 1929 and ’30. houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double Down Pizza. % 702-964-2493. Tony’s. 70 South Maine Street. 125 South Maine Street. is located in the secondoldest building in the state. sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City. 875 West Williams Avenue. 1350 West Williams Avenue. 1560 West Williams Avenue. % 702-867-3750. The Depot Casino. lunch and dinner. Carol’s Country Kitchen. One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is Lattin Farms. Smack in the center of town. The Fallon Nugget Casino. % 702423-6828. including McDonald’s. Austin All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street). % 702-423-3111.
% 702-2289-3765. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli. and Hubtotel RV Park. serving diner-style grub. begins serving its large portions of breakfast. % 702-237-5477. located three miles north of town on US 93. % 702-867-2332. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends. around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. might as well top it off in Eureka. % 702-289-4884. The Owl Club. % 702-289-3313. % 702-237-5280. Jerry Restaurant No. 2160 Aultman Street. % 702-237-5356. 501 Aultman Street. the area fills quickly on Pony Express Territory . lunch and dinner at 6 AM. % 702-289-6665. Fallon RV Park. has 64 sites. which serves beef and seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. 5787 Reno Highway. 562 Aultman Street. offers 45 sites. however. Eureka If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet. and breakfast in its restaurant 24 hours a day. serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. 21. serves a fine steak sandwich. 701 Avenue I. 1455 Aultman Street. which features prime rib. % 702-688-1500. % 702-964-2627. and is attached to a bar.Where To Stay & Eat n 125 Club. Lahontan State Recreation Area. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the Cell Block Dining Room. has one developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. top sirloin steak and eggs. % 702-289-3905. and Orient Express. including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. There are plenty of spots to pitch a tent. is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few outdoor tables. Hearty breakfasts are served June through October. West of Fallon. n Camping Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. where the restaurants are also along US 50. and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. Ely One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada. is also open 24 hours a day. 211 5th Street. 4800 Reno Highway. % 702-289-3033. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store. % 702-289-4888. The Busy Bee Drive-In. The Fireside Inn. % 702-867-3636. Believe it or not. It’s a good idea to call each of these to check their hours before heading out. The Ramada Inn/Copper Queen’s Café. % 702-964-2412.
Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon haze). contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District. Only six miles southwest of Ely. There is drinking water here. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road 002. Kingston Campground has 14 sites. % 702-964-1011. Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans. After a few miles. is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm summer nights. US 6 leads to the 29 campsites. 24 miles east of Austin. then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to 8. the highway becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground.300 feet. as there are no services near the water. has 16 free campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. NV 89310. where there are eight campsites set at 7. contact BLM Battle Mountain District.195 feet in the Toiyabe National Forest. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7. has 21 sites for motor homes plus tent camping. North of Ely. the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain Campground in the shadow of the 10. along with campfire rings. Finally. Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near Austin off US 50. For more information and road conditions.800 feet. PO Box 1420. PO Box 130. About nine miles south of Big Creek. which are open June through September with running water. No running water or firewood. one mile east of NV 305 on US 50. there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque Schell Creek Range. Battle Mountain. To reach Bird Creek campground. There are 15 sites. None have running water. Austin.500 feet. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486. backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south. which heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. There are other undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. For information. There are 10 sites here . Just east of town. Austin RV Park. both off of US 50. % 702-964-2671.936-foot peak near Murray Summit.126 n Pony Express Territory summer weekends. grills. Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. Open April to October. Timber Creek Campground is another mile south on NV 486. picnic tables and vault toilets. then go a mile to County Road 1059. % 702-635-4000. NV 89820. Just east of the Eureka town limits. Bob Scott Campground. There are 14 spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. so arrive early and bring plenty of supplies. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley to the southwest (named by John C. set at 7. there is primitive camping near the Eureka Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit.
Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified air of 9.Where To Stay & Eat n 127 with piped water. There are 30 sites here at 7.886 feet. contact the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District. % 702-2893303. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs. On the northern edge of the park. There are 14 sites for RVers and nine for tenters. One mile beyond Lower Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night with a 14-night maximum stay. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching. The roads ends about three miles later at Shoshone Campground (elevation 8. which runs southwest from US 50 from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely. 350 8th Street. In Great Basin National Park. head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service Road 435. % 702-2893413. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers. Nine miles above Upper Lehman. For more information.752 feet. The first campsites are approximately 10 miles from the highway. which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. has 46 sites located one mile north of town on US 93. To reach the campground from US 50. and Valley View RV Park. Contact the visitors center. for more information on any of the campgrounds within Great Basin National Park. % 702-234-7331.300 feet. The BLM. Ely. Upper Lehman.530 feet. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the campground. has 100 sites. 89301. there are several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road.250 feet). and there are no showers. The campground features ranger-led campfire programs. where a trail leads up to Johnson Lake. Pony Express Territory . There are also primitive campgrounds within park boundaries. % 702-2893031. accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. NV. beginning with Lower Lehman Creek. In the center of the park. Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely. depending on weather conditions. this is the only park campground open all year. on US 93. operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. % 702-289-4865. Set at 7. there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road. Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek Road and driving three miles. there are four developed campgrounds accessible via NV 488 west of Baker. Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September.
the oldest living thing on earth. started pulling core samples.000-year-old duck decoys. not many of them stayed around very long. The short. Edmund Schulman. He found one living specimen dating back 4. the still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's only real threat. F Bristlecone Pines The bristlecone pine. five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more than a thousand years. the state animal. which makes the area a perfect place to enjoy uncrowded spaces. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until the 1950s. to wagon ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners. Throughout history. concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. . Desert bighorn sheep. sagebrushcovered sea. when University of Arizona researcher Dr. stepping between stands of bristlecone pine. evidence of humans passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. reaching as high as 11. whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine. Named Methuselah. climbing up one side of a mountain range and dipping down the other side into its basin.000 feet and more. livestock almost certainly outnumbers people. The mountains rise up like giant whitecaps in a still. Today in Cowboy Country. A drive across the state is like riding the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster. call many parts of this high country home. humans. lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds. who described them as “lowly old giants. has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. ferreting out rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the CaliforniaNevada border.700 years. however.Cowboy Country Cowboy Country rom 4. gnarled trees with bottlebrush greenery caught the eye of John Muir.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine denizens by four millenia.
Since many of these adventures make use of unpaved roads. Carry good maps and a compass. attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in search of various species of trout.130 n Cowboy Country Dendrochronologists. offering miles of uncrowded trails for hikers. twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past. TAKE CARE Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. bikers and equestrians. lakes and reservoirs. all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. Elko and Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns.500 feet – that become crowded on summer weekends. have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline dating back 10. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers. There are easily accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by a paved highway climbing to 8. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy. Upper elevations stay covered with the white stuff often long into spring and summer. and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores. with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150mile views. driving a high-clearance vehicle is sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a good idea. Elko headed the list of the 100 . As remote as Cowboy Country can be. Summers are generally hot and dry. The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands. Always check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the beaten path. The weather here can be as wild as the land. scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and environmental conditions. and lower elevations can receive a foot and more overnight. and know how to use them. the centers of population provide plenty of comfortable options and amenities. Winter brings rain and snow. towns like Winnemucca. In fact. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. but not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. The ranges are the place to be when the basins top 90°. with local economies spurred by both an expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. streams. bass and other gamefish. Jarbidge Wilderness in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness areas in the country. In 1993.000 years. There are four designated wilderness areas in Cowboy Country.
others moved on. And Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends. but everyday tools. parts of which are still visible today. In late 1860s. This is a place where pick-up trucks. followed by the doomed Donner Party. eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique region. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is the main artery for adventure travelers. The famous trail. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of life like no other area in America. This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. one thing has remained constant: life on the range. including one named Samuel Clemens. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest concentration of Basques outside of the Old World. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys) patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu items of choice for breakfast. paralleled the Humboldt River. this region remains one of the greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. after the riches ran out. The Native Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher. the Central Pacific Railroad came though. But since the early days. that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them reason to hunker down. but thanks to new mining technology. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with the reins and rope.The Land & the People n 131 Best Small Towns in America. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music Gathering. Cowboy Country . Whites entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail. The towns are also home to a number of outfitters and guide services. lunch and dinner. combed Cowboy Country. leaving the region with a number of eerie ghost towns. Few settlers stopped for very long on their westward treks. finally giving many homesteaders reason to put down roots. Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. took to sheepherding. have become two of the most popular festivals of their kind in the world. Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent. The hale and hearty survived various booms and busts throughout the years to come. both held in Elko. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking gold and silver prospectors.
Reid was the first white person to see the cave. This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short. The seat of 6. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the Great Basin.300. the rock shelter’s north face is covered with petroglyphs. arrived here in 1866. which crosses the Humboldt River. reached by driving south from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks. a Welshman who had become successful in California during the Gold Rush. Lovelock is also home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for adventures in northern Nevada. George Lovelock. A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter. With a population of just over 2. another short road on the left heads one mile to Lovelock Indian Cave. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. then veering left onto South Merdidian Road. turn left on Derby Road. Hunting and fishing tools and other artifacts. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated until 1950. when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. which the company named after him. which measures . Five miles southwest of the shelter.132 n Cowboy Country Touring n Lovelock First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the Humboldt River. Lovelock has more than enough small-town charm to go around. A year later he donated 85 acres to the Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite. including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds. located on the southern outskirts of town. Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-Mile Desert.000-square-mile Pershing County. After eight miles. four-wheeldrive road on the left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter. about 17 miles from Lovelock. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years. A vertical rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range. as evidenced by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave. were also found and dated to 2000 BC. and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right.
Touring n 133 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep. Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic. quite common in this part of the Great Basin. including a fine collection of Native American points and tools. 1:30 PM to 4 PM. clothing and household items. killing the last of the mysterious tribe. The whitewashed two-story structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of antique furnishings. The courthouse is on the grounds of a quiet. which once covered most of northwestern Ne- . when a group of guano miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. the first ever in the Great Basin. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911. NV 89419. sitting downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House Museum. Tufas. % 702-273-2713. many of which were donated by locals. are large. Lovelock. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave. Some of the Humboldt Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home. One of only two round courthouses in the country. located just off I-80 on the west end of town. were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society and UC Berkeley archeologists. red-headed people once lived in the area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the Paiute. in 1886 or 1887. which also features the community pool. Admission is free. For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites. along with other evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC. the building was designed by award-winning architect Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. Nearly as interesting as the courthouse. a minor geological wonder is found in the tufa field. contact the Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. picnicperfect park. Scientific excavations. Mummified remains were found here. Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse. about six miles from downtown Lovelock. fingershaped formations of mineral deposits left over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan. son of the great Paiute leader Winnemucca. He may have been led there by Natchez. PO Box 821. dark.
is centered on this man-made lake. Rye Patch Reservoir is a banana-shaped.134 n Cowboy Country vada. % 702-538-7321. There are three picnic grounds and a swimming beach. the reservoir does get its share of cold rain and snow in winter months. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50 businesses is now a sleepy little village. Created by a 75-foot dam that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936. PO Box 821. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas. n Unionville Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. NV 89419. After later taking the name Mark Twain. where stone . he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It. fishing and camping. % 702-273-2713. see below under Adventures. Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper). To reach the tufas from the courthouse. turn left and drive 2½ miles to a gravel road on the right. n Rye Patch Reservoir About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80. as well as opportunities for boating. although about $5 million worth of ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in the 1860s and ’70s. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road. Rye Patch State Recreation Area. Lovelock. go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399). below) and wellmanicured homes. which seems close enough to touch. For details. complete with a rustic bed and breakfast (see Accommodations. Open all year. Information Sources Pershing County Chamber of Commerce. standing five to 15 feet high and spead over 100 acres. About 16 families reside in Unionville. 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite playground of locals and travelers alike. are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity Range.
including a dress worn by Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover. From here it’s five miles to the town. In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver and herd sheep. % 702/623-2225. except for lunch. Admission is free. and today portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing County Youth Camp. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. head south on NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a parade.Touring n 135 ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the length of the canyon. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black skirts (for the women). the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera. the Humboldt Museum complex. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. Cowboy Country n Winnemucca The largest city between Sparks and Elko. is comprised of the former sanctuary of St. On the west side of the Humboldt River atop a small hill. a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant Trail. dancing. Edna Purviance. Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building behind the church. Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple Avenue. the largest concentration of Basques in the New World. a good spot for a picnic. which also displays ranching equipment and Western art. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces. They later brought their families. Winnemucca (population 7. celebrate their heritage with food and festivals. % 702-623-2912. a former resident. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors. To reach Unionville from I-80. A cemetery and mill ruins are located near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages.380) was founded in 1850 as French Ford. the locals sought to placate a local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village after him. Today their descendants. Curator .
. A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at 4th and Lay streets. 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard. Winnemucca. Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. Another gem is the Shone House. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada.000 in gold. along with a thank you note. 602 Bridge Street. Like something out of old Mexico. The thieves escaped to Texas. 352 Bridge Street. The tour visits 30 sites. is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch – Butch Cassidy. 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard. one of two in the country. Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca. NV 89445. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and Bridge Streets. was erected in 1863.136 n Cowboy Country Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. which has been used as a rooming house since 1901. nabbing $32. St. Winnemucca. There is a gift shop next door. 705 East Fourth Street. % 702-623-1500. NV 89445. the red brick Winnemucca Hotel.000. NV 89445. Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and two huge bell towers. % 702623-5025. Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce. % 702-623-5025. NV 89445. where they reportedly had their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier. Winnemucca. The former First National Bank. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own round courthouse. which might be too much for an afternoon walk. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th and Melarkey streets. the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900. US Forest Service. % 800-962-2638. but all are easily drivable. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in 1921. the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke away and formed Pershing County. the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40. Winnemucca. 95 Bridge Street. The museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to 4 PM Saturday.
take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22 miles to NV 290. Wooden structures and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana exit off I-80. The camp was abandoned by 1869. once a busy town of more than 2. To reach the remains of the camp. The Rochester Mining District. between Winnemucca and Lovelock. Today about 100 people live in town. which . and 2. Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789. it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to protect settlers from Paiute raids. then northeast for 44 miles to a road heading north. established Scottsdale in 1866. turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. Thiry years and $9 million worth of ore later. The first settlers arrived here in 1863 and. Midas is two miles from this junction. so travel in a well-running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. Cowboy Country n Paradise Valley From Winnemucca. but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the mid ’40s.Touring n 137 Ghost Towns Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime haunts. Located about 50 miles north of downtown Winnemucca. which serves as a meeting place and information center. Three years later the village became Paradise City. after fending off resident Paiutes. When the ore turned out to be lackluster. along with the local watering hole. which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby Santa Rosa Range. when the attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise Valley. the town was an empty shell. all but 250 people left. Jungo. sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas. A 20th-century ghost town. A small saloon and café remain in Midas.000 who rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain. Jungo began as a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910.300 people had moved by 1913. 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road. The only major silver strike here occurred in June 1912. A land speculator lured farmers here in the ’20s. was so christened in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. about 14 northeast of Lovelock. The camp is 4½ miles northwest of town.
when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here. just one year before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental railway. gaming and construction industries fuel the turbocharged economy. sometimes an angler’s paradise.000acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. This is a spectacular setting for unspoiled hiking.) In town. is located about 24 miles east of town (see On Water. % 702-7383418. especially since it topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. this town of about 25. n Elko Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80. The Northeastern Nevada Museum. beautiful high-country lake. In Winnemucca. 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-578-3381. After all. obtain maps. located on the extreme east end of town. There are also numerous outfitters ready and willing to lead you into the backcountry. 1515 Idaho Street. offers a bar. fishing and camping. Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures.) There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper. on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. Just south of town.138 n Cowboy Country emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest and 31. while remote Jarbidge Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north.) Chimney Dam Reservoir. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown. while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. (See Adventures. Basque . Elko traces its roots back to 1868. verdant marshes.000 is the fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and Sparks. the Ruby Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin. permits and information at the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District headquarters. however. Paradise Saloon. is easy to locate. ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express shack in front. A state park. % 702-623-5025. deli and soda fountain. this is Cowboy Country. five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix of Native Americans. (See Adventures and Camping. It’s the white. The local mining. biking. Gas is also available.
Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only time cowboys can afford to come in off the range). Displays of local wildlife. % 800-654-3131. % 702-738-5131. Chinese laborers and the American cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. Rental Cars Avis Rent-a-Car. . The center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June. 501 Railroad Street. Housed in a former hotel that was built in 1912. contact the field at % 702-738-5138. the center celebrates the lyricism of the West. % 702-738-7508. Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains. % 702-738-7123. along with various other events throughout the year. most notably during the annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering. (The town even made it into The New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca. 1 PM to 5 PM. % 800-8727245. and Sunday. and a charter airline. geology and industry abound. also known as J. the gathering can only be described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. Harris Field. Hertz Rent-A-Car. Deweys Rent-A-Car.000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. Admission is free. is served by Delta Connection-Sky West. preserves and protects the arts of the American cowboy. geography. 10 AM to 5 PM.”) What started small in 1984 now attracts over 10. Cowboy Country Transportation Airport The Elko airport. 9 AM to 5 PM. The Western Folklife Center.C. % 800-331-1212. The museum is open Monday through Saturday. % 800-453-9417. The gift shop is open Wednesday through Sunday.Touring n 139 immigrants. For airport information. El Aero Services.
This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling for months. % 702-753-0200. 90. n Lamoille/Ruby Mountains It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains. located southeast of Elko. From Elko.) Most of the range lies within Humboldt National Forest. 1601 Idaho Street.800 feet). The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille.387 feet at Ruby Dome. 976 Mountain City Highway. including the remote. passing Powerhouse picnic area. Humboldt National Forest. % 702-738-7135. lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate. 89801. Elko. with elevations ranging up to 11. 89801. Elko Chamber of Commerce. Elko Convention & Visitors Authority. Elko. From town. Elko. The Rubies have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other mountains in the state. % 702-738-5171.000-acre Ruby Mountains Wilderness. Elko. set on a lonely country road against the stunning backdrop of the range. NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into the Ruby Mountains. Alpine vistas. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their widest point. 3900 East Idaho Street. take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty. % 800-248-ELKO. (See Adventures and Camping. is one of the most photographed churches in the West. At the . 700 Moren Way. Thomas Creek campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough at Roads End picnic area (8.140 n Cowboy Country Information Sources Bureau of Land Management. fishing and camping in the entire West. 89801. 89803. The white-washed Presbyterian Church. making for some of the most beautiful hiking.
(See On Foot. rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation. take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of Jackpot at the Idaho border. the area is surprisingly touristfriendly. then north another 25 miles. and there’s no argument here. As small and remote as Jarbidge is. which causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin. The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge. From Wells. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are impassable much of the year. the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. is spectacular. see below. The road leads east 21 miles. which sprouted up out of nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. the view of 12-mile-long Lamoille Canyon. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel roads. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs. check with the owners of the Trading Post. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. For details on all of this. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line. or call them at % 702-488-2315. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson. From the south. . rising 11. with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business. follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds down. this town sticks to Mountain Time. Yes. where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks.500 people flooded into the region. A few slices of the days of gold fever remain. For access to both. Idaho. Rey and Marguerite Nystrom. so drive cautiously. Even when they are open. is visible in the west. Ruby Dome.Touring n 141 crest. gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like. turns south. a high clearance vehicle is required. down into Jarbidge Canyon. including the old jailhouse and 1910 Community Hall. More than 1. U-shaped valley. Nevada.) Cowboy Country n Jarbidge Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada. making it the top goldproducing area in the state at the time.387 feet. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916. There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves. and by the 1930s the rush was over. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho. then turn west on the paved RogersonThree Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement runs out. the road meets the Jarbidge River.
but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah. the site of once-thriving Metropolis is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. of course. exit at No. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Wells started out in the 1860s as a Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. both available at the Trading Post. try Stuart’s Foodtown. n Wendover From Wells. displays vehicles ranging from 1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. stare out across the famous. Stuart’s is open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM.306 feet at Hole in the Mountain Peak. the main difference between the two sides being. billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. Adventures in the mountains are listed below. Besides fulfilling the need for speed. Bonneville Speedway Museum. The range is also home to Angel Lake.000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness.) On the Utah side of the state line. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual World of Speed weekend every September. Wendover is also known as the staging ground for the first atomic bombing run. Before entering town. For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and horsepower. head east from the border. the 44. just west of the Nevada-Utah border. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First Composite Group and site of the . % 702-752-3215. n Wells From Elko. 647 Humboldt Avenue. reached easily via a paved highway. there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover. For ghost town fans. Sunday until 9 PM. and the 37. which rises to 11. To access the flats. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to the East Humboldt Range. The town was abandoned in 1942. the main artery running up the east side of the state. Wendover is technically on the Nevada side.142 n Cowboy Country & Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever. % 801-665-7721. This is also the junction of US 93.000-acre remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville. 4 and go five miles northeast. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies. however. the presence of casinos. Cool. stop at Horizon Viewpoint.
% 702-664-3414.000 buckaroos. is at 735 Wendover Boulevard. hawks. the historic World War II B-29s. celebrating the rich Native American culture of Northern Nevada.Special Events n 143 training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar. which attracts upwards of 10. auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. first at the Miner’s Rodeo. Both events take place at the Elko County Fairgrounds. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for directions and road conditions before heading out. Special Events January Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko. The main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike.600 feet in two miles. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the Goshute Mountains from mid-August through midOctober. falcons and ospreys are common. which gains 1. A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of Wendover. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. when thousands of birds of prey make their annual move. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover.and gasoline-powered steeds are flying. The Battle Mountain Easter Pow Wow. February Wells holds its annual chariot races. wannabes and fans of the Western way of life to the heart of Cowboy Country. then at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. which welcome up to 60 horsedriver teams. Cowboy Country Information Sources The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau. a . Call % 702-635-8245 for more information. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long extravaganza. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express 100/Weekend on Wheels. June Both hay. is held in late March or early April. Eagles. The night before the events.
or 23-mile loop. They’re back in October for the Bonneville World Finals. Thousands crowd the streets to participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports. October October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca. There is a traditional dance contest. Near Wendover. call % 702-635-8245. In Wendover. where entrants from around the world compete in all types of vehicles. Ranch hands from across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko County Fairgrounds. six. when tanks. August Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month. the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the annual Land Speed Opener. The town of McDermitt. featuring food.144 n Cowboy Country three-day festival of racing and fun. when hot rods and classic cars fill the streets. hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. For details. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony. Call % 800WMCA-NEV for information. arts and crafts and a photo exhibit. dancing. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June. The largest Basque get-together in the US. Phone numbers can be found above. hear the music and eat the food. jeeps and other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. the Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one. call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers for information on the above events.. north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border. under Touring. the National Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. . July In July. September Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world records during World of Speed weekend. Unless otherwise indicated. a parade and feats of strength.
go north on US 95 35 miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. the wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. The last 2½ miles are covered on a somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne Peak are tremendous. then bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. The first half of the moderately strenous. To reach the trailhead.Adventures n 145 Cowboy Country Adventures n On Foot Star Peak The highest point in the Humboldt Range. Star Peak. Nevada 290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley. The trail begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. lupine and leopard lilly are common here. Pronghorn antelope. The trail is punishing. mahogany and wildflowers like yellow violet. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star Peak.834 feet). including the 31. Chartered in 1989. is accessed by a tough four-mile hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. climbing more than 4. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in Buffalo Canyon. but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. 1994. which .732) is the highest point.000 feet in four miles. turn right and backtrack south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side of the Santa Rosas. From here. From the top. The hike is also described in Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada. Falcon Press Publishing. leads due east toward the highest point. Granite Peak (elevation 9. the road. The last half-mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of 8. Most of the Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest. The Santa Rosa Mountains The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush. The trailhead appears after three miles. crossing Buffalo Creek. willow and cottonwood country. This makes for a great loop drive. Star Peak (elevation 9. To reach the trail. Aspen. passable by high-clearance vehicles. travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit.000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness.200 feet.
High-clearance vehicles are strongly advised for any dirtroad driving. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison Pass and is open June 15 to September 15.5-minute quad maps of the area include Five Fingers. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles round-trip.800 feet above sea . narrow canyons. The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through October. the trail passes near no fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak. although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. where you turn south. cirque basins. Return the way you came. USGS 7. The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a number of trailheads. Mountain lions. Hikers can visit rock peaks. Here the trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9. big horn sheep. descends toward a watercourse. glacial lakes. dipping into Morey Creek Canyon and climbing out. This is also a prime locale for wildlife watching. Drive about 39 miles north of Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US Forest Service sign for Singas Creek. about one mile south of town. can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing steeply up an old road from the parking lot. more than 10. mule deer and the Himalayan snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile before reaching the Summit Trail. % 702-623-5025. rolling sage-covered hills and steep. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End campground in Lamoille Canyon.146 n Cowboy Country are actually not part of the antelope family. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca. eventually reaching a signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage. Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. The gravel and dirt road runs 5. Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada.000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11. keeping an eye skyward for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks.” Elevations range from 6.415). For a Humboldt National Forest Visitor Map and more information.6 miles to a parking area. depending on weather conditions. The Ruby Mountains The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s Alaska. Horses are welcome on these trails. including Singas Creek.387 feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. Come prepared for anything.
400 feet and heads north. the trail drops toward the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north for half a mile. granite landscape to Liberty Pass. sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. For up-todate trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt mountains. hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. Cowboy Country The East Humboldt Range The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. Pause to rest but not to fish. as there are no trout here. this is the high point of the trek. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. but always check with rangers first on trail conditions. with fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket. and his dog Molly. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way. % 702-738-7135. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include Lamoille.500 feet. Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-written 76-page booklet. The lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. The five-mile. set at 9. At 10. Feel free. The trail then descends from nosebleed country. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. a computer instructor at Great Basin College.300-foot . then step over a footbridge and come upon the Dollar Lakes. The 1. Hyslop. you begin the climb from the Ruby Crest trailhead. sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake campground at 8. then descends again to cross Trout Creek. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells.Adventures n 147 level. so check road conditions before heading out. After about a mile and a half. Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead. While most hikers choose the more convenient Roads End trailhead. Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass. Two trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). of course. to stop at any point along the way and turn around to shorten the hike. know this region as well as anyone. cross Lamoille Creek a few times. The pass is often closed in winter. % 702-752-3357. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce. then west as it crosses the East Humboldt Wilderness boundary.400 feet. From Roads End. Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook trout hide) through an austere. Franklin Lake NW. including a strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake. To reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko.
subalpine forests. follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. Return the way you came. Follow the sign for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood Creek. Most of the paths are found in the 113. The trail drops again. The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote. hikers and equestrians can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more. Beaver ponds are a common sight along the trail. Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip. which became one of the country’s first such areas when Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. Wild- . but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed. An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles below Angel Lake.000-acre Jarbidge Wilderness.000-foot mark. exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake.000 feet to 10.700 feet. providing a window on the diverse makeup of the local wilderness. making it one of 20 national areas used to benchmark clean air. ? DID YOU KNOW? Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open. Idaho. a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. Follow this road for 17 miles to a junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end.839 at the summit of Matterhorn Peak. the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. Finally. From the trailhead. Winchell Lake supports no fish (which makes it a less popular destination). Just past the spring. the closest town. The terrain in this portion of the national forest ranges from an elevation of 6. On a good day. the Humboldt National Forest Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. Unfortunately. but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a picnic.148 n Cowboy Country climb to the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower display put on here. crosses an alpine meadow and ascends again past the 9. The water is stocked with cutthroat trout. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from Rogerson. the trail begins a final one-mile descent to the breathtakingly beautiful fiveacre lake at 8. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above hikes.
flower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands 10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage. Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route wanders through stunning redrock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek. You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail, Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, % 208-543-4129.
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor equipment and good advice. Winnemucca Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, % 702-6235926. Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, % 702941-0267. Jarbidge Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, % 702-752-3604. Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, % 800-621-0154. Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, % 208-857-2270. Elko Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, % 702-744-2277. Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, % 702738-7811. Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, % 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, % 702-753-4333. Lamoille Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, % 702-777-3277. Wells Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, % 702-7523604. Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, % 702-752-3778. Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, % 702-7523714. Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, % 702752-3040. Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, % 702-7520288.
n On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail. Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call %702-744-2277, or write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
n On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and
turn east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills and the flats for fossils. To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road. Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north, as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large gold mining operation.
Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.
For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library, 1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, % 702273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels, coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau of Land Management, % 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for 44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go 3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring. To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail, suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, % 702-7384091.
Elko Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, % 702-7388199. Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, % 702-738-8236.
n On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, % 702-5387321, is a favorite watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a 22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres, depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV dump station are open all year.
Chimney Dam Reservoir is a 2. Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby Mountains. Fishing is best in spring and early summer. walleye and crappie are all said to be available here. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995.Adventures n 153 The northern end of Rye Patch. Cowboy Country Chimney Dam Reservoir Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada. for up-to-date information and directions before heading out. travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline. South Fork Reservoir Just 19 miles south of Elko. To reach the lake from Elko. rainbows. % 702-623-5025. where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake. brown and rainbow trout. and everything is open year-round. take NV 227 southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. Rainbow trout are the catch of the day here. accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir. There is a campground and boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site.100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large population of game fish. A road heads northwest from I80 just west of the Imlay exit and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. is also a good fishing spot. and black bass have become a favorite catch. To reach the reservoir from Paradise Valley. Continue south 12 miles to the first of two signed entrances. For more information. Here fly fishermen have pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds. there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a total of 69 miles of fishable waters. campsites and restrooms. contact the US Forest Service Santa Rosa District. The site has a paved boat ramp. South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent additions to the angler’s itinerary. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also provides ample fishing opportunities. this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watch- . supports brook. call % 702-758-6493. Channel cats. mountain whitefish. Since water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams. North Fork Little Humboldt River While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of Winnemucca. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River.
To reach the refuge from Elko. The most convenient trailhead is at Roads End. including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. elevation 8. short-eared owl and American kestrel. great sandhill crane. The refuge is generally divided into two parts: shallow. For more information. For Birders More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh. white-faced ibis. turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge.154 n Cowboy Country ers. trumpeter swam. Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake contain brook trout. and Liberty Lake holds northern pike. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the refuge. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley Road. contact the US Forest Service. % 702-738-5171.800 feet. 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout. with wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter. then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. and a campground is found just outside the refuge. For an easier drive from Wells. reed-crowded marshland on the north end and a deeper lake on the south end. including bald and golden eagle. At the foot of the range. The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail This provides access to excellent high-country fishing.000 acres. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter. brook trout also run in Angel Creek. take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs. The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of Wells. The area is also known for an abundance of largemouth bass. so check road conditions before heading out. Within six miles of the trailhead. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113. The waterways and channels have produced some of Nevada’s largest keepers. flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. Angel Lake Near Wells. midway between the northern and southern portions. . at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road southeast of Elko. The spring-fed marshes cover more than 8. take US 93 south to paved NV 229 west. Turn left and head south 32 miles. then climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass.
89833. % 702-625-2453. 89801. the spring-fed. 1250 Lamoille Highway. located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93. making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. 89801. % 702-777-DIVE. You won’t find any fancy lodges or designer . catfish. PO Box 515. Raley’s.400-acre lake. % 702-664-3414. white crappie and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. Grandview Marine. Elko Guide Service. are the best bets here. PO Box 685. In warmer months. brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat. HC 60. HC30 Box 17 #13. 89801. 423 South Bridge Street. take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko. 89833. Cowboy Country Blue Lakes Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems. Watersports Outfitters Winnemucca Bikes & More. % 702-7442277. crystalline Blue Lakes. contact the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau. To reach the 2. Ruby Valley Hidden Lake Outfitters.Adventures n 155 Wild Horse Reservoir North of Elko. Elko Dawn’s High Desert Divers. 2511 Mountain City Highway. Secret Pass Outfitters. 89801. HC 60. % 702-7382775. % 702779-2268. the bowcut trout. n On Snow Elko SnoBowl The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff each winter. have become a local haven for divers. Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot spot for ice fishermen. % 702-7388473. % 702779-2226. The reservoir also sports developed campsites. 285 12th Street. Rainbow. For more information.
The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. The Lovelock Inn. The Best Western Sturgeon’s. pool and jacuzzi. offers 130 acres of terrain. Trips are limited to 16 people. is convenient to I-80. The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March.000 acres of skiable mountain. lounge. covering 5. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko.500 to 6. so reserve spots as far in advance as possible.200 vertical feet. with a 24-hour casino. . restaurant. along with plenty of room for snowboarders. % 702-753-6867. but you might just find plenty of uncrowded powder.200 feet. % 702-273-2937. 1420 Cornell Avenue.500 feet. then head west for five miles to town. Elko SnoBowl. Although there isn’t a television to be found.156 n Cowboy Country hot chocolate in the region. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. there is a trout stream and pond near the property. Three-day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food. lodging and all the extras. but still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum. The outfit boasts 5. HO TE L Unionville Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in 1862. is the most happening place in town. $$$. Rates include a ranchstyle breakfast. To reach the ranch from I80. 55 Cornell Avenue. There is one chairlift and one surface lift. has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch. one tame and the other decidedly not so. 2805 Unionville Road. drive south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road. Where To Stay & Eat n Accommodations Lovelock The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. % 800-528-1234. ranging from 5. especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and March. will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as 11. % 702-538-7585. $-$$. For aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. not to mention 74 rooms. Lunch and dinner are extra. $$. depending on snowfall. % 702-738-7135.
$-$$. The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-story. 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard. the Red Lion Inn. $-$$. 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard. If you want all the extras of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino. Most of the large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street. the 80-room Val-U Inn. 3015 Idaho Street. % 800-346-5306. $$$$$. but don’t be surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. There are also two Best Westerns. % 702-738-8425. 1930 Idaho Street. and the Holiday Motel. % 702-625-1818. % 702-623-1116. and the Model T Motel. is for you. 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard. including the queen of Elko establishments. with 110 rooms and an indoor pool. 2065 Idaho Street. starting with the two biggies. eateries. $$. 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard. The chain establishments pretty much dominate the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard). and the Days Inn. % 800-262-8901. also has a pool to go with its 71 rooms. 2050 Idaho Street. restaurant and full bar. offers 40 rooms. the Red Lion Inn. 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard. 400 1st Street. The Motel 6 is casinoless but does have a pool. the 170-room Holiday Inn. restaurant and bar. 46-room Pyrenees Motel. offering 70 rooms. but also its own charter airline. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers. $$-$$$$. % 702-623-3661. the Super 8. casino. % 800-545-0044. % 702-623-5248. and the generic. a pool and 223 rooms. and the Motel 6. $$-$$$. 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard. % 702-738-8787. a lounge with live entertainment. the Ameritel Inn Elko. with 150 rooms. The Red Lion not only has a casino. the Gold Country Motor Inn. $$$. % 702-7387261. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is Scott’s Shady Court. 49-room Ameritel Inn Express. 921 West Winnemucca Boulvard. $$. $$-$$$. 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard. 837 Idaho Street. 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard. basic motels on the main drag. $$-$$$.000. which has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. % 800-645-5658. Casino Express. There are plenty of cheap. % 702-738-8421. $$. There are three Best Westerns in Elko. $$. $$.Where To Stay & Eat n 157 Winnemucca Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town with a population of less than 7. Cowboy Country Elko Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around. % 702-623-1180. $-$$. % 702-623-3646. The Lion has 106 rooms along with a casino. $-$$. in- . The Gold Country Inn. % 800-633-6435.
jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak activities. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport. 89828. hiking and fly fishing. including skeet shooting. jacuzzi and fitness center. some with kitchenettes. There are 141 rooms. all-inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon. 345 Idaho Street. % 702-738-7115. % 702-753-6356. % 702-753-6363. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast. and the Thunderbird Motel. a swimming pool. restaurants. offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the two-story ranch house. can all be reached by calling % 702-744-2277. . PO Box 281208. % 702-578-3530. $$$$. and Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch. % 702-738-8488. The Shilo Inn. sleeping quietly at the feet of the towering Ruby Mountains. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel Lamoille. $-$$. $$-$$$. 340 Commercial Street.158 n Cowboy Country cluding the Super 8. The place is located on NV 227 just as you drive into town. % 702-738-5522. Red’s Ranch. bar and pool. $-$$. is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino. Paradise Valley Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca. $$$-$$$$. Away from Idaho Street. There is even space for campers and RVers. Ruby Crest Guest Ranch. There are three rooms and even pets are allowed. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking. There is a restaurant just a few feet away. Jiggs Guest Ranch. $$$-$$$$. a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. Just outside of Lamoille. The ranch is also the home base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing. There are 13 sumptuous rooms. has three rooms in the main lodge and a large. biking and horseback riding. check out any of the handful of guest ranches near Elko. Stockmen’s Hotel. has 70 rooms. $$-$$$. % 702-753-6281. 1755 Idaho Street. $-$$. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also serve homemade dinners and desserts. which beckons weary travelers with bed and breakfast. detached cabin with jacuzzi. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. $$. $$. For a real taste of Cowboy Country. is an exclusive. % 702-738-5141. along with a pool. Stonehouse Country Inn. 2401 Mountain City Highway. $$$-$$$$. Lamoille. Lamoille There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille. PO Box 281381.
A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed & Breakfast. if you’re into chains. which also has a restaurant and bar. contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post. 326 6th Street. Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination. 456 6th Street. % 702-752-3604. HC 62. For more information. % 702-752-3888. sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US 93. $. Cowboy Country Wells A large Motel 6. the Rest Inn Suites. Grandmother’s is located about eight miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis. $. On Main Street. Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast. Jarbidge. offers another 24 rooms. % 702-7523065.000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone. % 702-488-2315. There are 57 rooms. % 702-488-2311. Wendover With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime. $-$$. % 702-752-2116. $$-$$$. 576 6th Street. there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel. PO Box 260090. 89826. $$-$$$. has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. which are connected by an elevated walkway over the boulevard. % 702-752-2151. which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy Country. Of course the main attractions here are the glitzy casinos. Cottonwood Ranch. boasts a restaurant and lounge with regular live entertainment. $-$$. If not. which has four tastefully appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. PO Box 1300. 930 6th Street. On the north side of town. $-$$. has 56 rooms. There are plenty of other generic motels to choose from. and the Best Western Sage Motel. 455 South Humboldt Avenue. 100 Wendover Boulevard. % 702-752-3384. the Chinatown Motel. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. % 702-4082338. Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. $-$$$$.Where To Stay & Eat n 159 Jarbidge For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down from Idaho. There are more than 1. HC 62. the Outdoor Inn. % 702-752-3353. is a working cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure vacations. % 702-752-2101. offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built in 1974. PO Box 300. and the Old West Inn. Together . % 702-752-2277. $. including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. most of them planted along 6th Street. 1250 East 6th Street. $$$-$$$$. $-$$. $. even by the neighbors in Utah. The Super 8. % 800-848-7300. Down the street. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers.
offers breakfast. $$-$$$. 1420 Cornell Avenue. jacuzzi. % 800-648-9660. n Restaurants Lovelock There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare.000-square-foot casino. 750 Cornell Avenue. 680 Wendover Boulevard. La Casita. which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino. a 14. leg of lamb.160 n Cowboy Country these places have many Vegas-style amenities. a health club. 260 Maine Street. serving steak. The squeaky clean establishment is open for breakfast. pool and jacuzzi. and until 2 PM on Sunday. live showroom entertainment. Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel. Nearby. is open until 10 PM every day. pool. % 702-273-2442. % 702-664-2888. lunch and dinner. the Super 8. % 800-537-0207. 485 Cornell Avenue. the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino. 9 PM on Sunday. is another gamer’s haven. which has live entertainment. % 702-273-3232. $-$$. along with daily specials. Mexican food and pizza. 1035 Wendover Boulevard. Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry Shop. % 702-623-3197. is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. . dancing and an 18-hole golf course. % 702-273-7773. live entertainment. % 702-273-7444. $$. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. restaurants. Wee B’s Pizza & More. lounges. lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle. One of the most popular joints in town is the Martin Motel. 1325 Wendover Boulevard. The 100-year-old Martin is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. offers 74 rooms directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino. serves three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. is open until 11 PM Friday and Saturday. with 90 rooms. Open 24 hours a day and seven days a week. shrimp and Basque side dishes. In the center of town. which basks in the Basque tradition. There are also numerous motels across the state line in Utah. 410 Cornell Avenue. and Pizza Factory. Winnemucca When in Winnemucca. do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. % 702-273-2971. The Peppermill Hotel. tennis courts. at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad streets. including restaurants and lounges.
is the largest hotel-casino in town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. and dinner only Friday and Saturday. American and Basque food has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel. 460 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-738-3214. The atmosphere is definitely casual. 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard. 2065 Idaho Street. 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard. but get there before 1 PM. 1550 Idaho Street. is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. Elko The Red Lion Inn. The Steak House. which is supposedly the locals’ choice. opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American specialties until 9:30 PM. Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House. wows visitors with more than 120 entrées and lunch and dinner specials. 597 West Winnemucca Boulevard. % 702-623-3455. % 702-623-2977. . 1061 West Fourth Street. Stockmen’s Hotel. % 702-623-4104. which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and miner’s sandwiches. 180 Melarkey Street. has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since 1960. % 800-545-0044. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop. % 702-623-6777. A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s. % 702-623-2908. where the meat is served right out of a real hickory pit. 1100 West Winnemucca Boulevard. while The Griddle. since 1863. with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods. Toki Ona. 95 South Bridge Street. The town’s potato processing plant is the planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every Pringles potato chip. Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. % 702-738-5141. Restaurante San Fermin. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. Another Basque establishment. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go around in Winnemucca. % 702-738-9691. China Garden. 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. 405 Silver Street. This being ranch country. 340 Commercial Street. Specializing in steak. home of the world’s largest potato field. % 702-625-2555. offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment.Where To Stay & Eat n 161 Cowboy Country ? DID YOU KNOW? Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm. % 702-623-1444 is the home of the famous two-pound T-bone steak. The bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. seafood and chicken. Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday. % 702-623-4440. all of their meat is cut to order. has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ.
% 702-738-7088. D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. 9 Beans and a Burrito. % 702-752-3210. 217 Idaho Street. % 702-753-6356. opens daily at 11 AM. One of the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant Smith’s Food & Drug Center. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens. is a classy-yet-casual establishment that has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s. Wells There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1. % 702-4882315. is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. % 702-488-2311. because Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere. serves lunch and dinner and makes a great margarita. 2525 Mountain City Highway. % 702-753-3877. % 702-7382541. 780 Commercial Street. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November. Main and Humboldt Streets. . % 702-753-6363. also serves hearty meals. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain City Highway. while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day. lamb is one of the menu’s staples. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading Post. % 702-738-1622. on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM). Lamoille Breitenstein’s House. opening its outdoor patio when the weather cooperates.162 n Cowboy Country In the tradition of a sheepherding people. just in case you need one of their hot-anddelicious pies for brunch. carved from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San Francisco. You can catch the triple threat of a great steak. cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties.300 souls. where it survived The Big One in ’06. If you crave Mexican food. delivers on its name. Burger Bar. Jarbidge Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn. 1740 Mountain City Highway. La Fiesta. to peruse the ornate bar. The breakfast burritos are particularly good. depending on weather conditions. Pizza Barn. adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed & Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church. Prices range from moderate to expensive. in the Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street. has a varied assortment of protein-powered cuisine. % 702-738-7898. Pine Lodge. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade soups. The food’s not bad either at the adjacent Tired Devil Café.
For more information. 27 and 29 are especially good. which holds trout and walleye. Cowboy Country n Camping Evidence of early American campers dating back 8. 680 Wendover Boulevard. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops. offering three all-you-can-down meals every day. with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. $3 per night in winter. the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-October. call % 702-738-5171. which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every evening. there is primitive camping at Water Canyon State Recreation Area. $8 for a two-family site. Set at 7.offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive. There is running water and vault toilets. For modern hunter-gatherers. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site. Running water and vault toilets are available for the 39 sites. just north of the dam. For more information. offer 12 different restaurants. the campground is generally open from late May through late September. 22 miles north of Lovelock. % 800-848-7300. % 800-648-9660. In the East Humboldt Range south of Wells.000 years has been found near the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area. In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley.400 feet. fêtes feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet. Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca. Lye Creek Campground has 13 family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. 25. including the ubiquitous casino buffet.Where To Stay & Eat n 163 Wendover The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine. call % 702-538-7321. call % 800-962-2638. The Peppermill Hotel. For more information. The main draw here is 11.600 feet. The local creek runs in spring and early summer. ranging from cheap-andsatisfying to four-course gourmet meals. and there are opportunities for cross-country skiing in winter. Thomas Canyon Campground is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt National Forest. About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains. Fees are $7 per night in summer. two beautiful US Forest Service . The fee is $7 per night. Sites 22.000acre Rye Patch Reservoir. One on the Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. the area has two campgrounds. Set at 7. located at the end of Hanson Street. The other one. 23. some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek. 100 Wendover Boulevard.
including three run by the US Forest Service. Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko. At the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains. . all free. The cabins are open October through mid-May. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15. % 702-752-3357. Only eight miles south of Wells on NV 231.164 n Cowboy Country campgrounds are just minutes from I-80. four steep miles west of Angel Creek. has 37 first-come.500 feet. depending on the availability of running water. Set at 8. Angel Creek is set at 6. with running water. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground. About five miles up NV 225. There is running water and the fee is $6 per night. contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District. located off Elko county road 745 about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted Humboldt National Forest land at 5. and the fee is $7 per night. For more information. There are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground. Angel Lake Campground is even more popular with local fishermen. and are open June to October. There is no running water and the fee is $6 per night. but no running water. The sites are near both the Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir.800 feet and is popular with anglers. The campground. Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. offering 18 sites with running water. the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells. There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge. The fee is $5 per night. the Forest Service rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. For information on the above campgrounds. % 208-5434129. and the fee is $8 per night. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of the mountains. Wildhorse State Recreation Area is located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. Pine Creek Campground has five free family sites. One mile north of town. The fee varies between $20 and $30 per night. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. The campground is usually open June 21 through early September. Both campgrounds are generally open June through November 15. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15.900 feet. One mile south of town on Elko county road 752. The campground is usually open May 23 through October. first-served sites.
marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than the entire wheat crop of California. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past. writer. Much of the land itself is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the government: BLM. Meanwhile. are in a state of “arrested decay. fueled by expanding local economies and gambling revenues. Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days.Pioneer Territory efore he became patriarch of the American conservation movement. naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. are dealing with the immense challenges of double-digit annual population growth. Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. like Belmont and Rhyolite. search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their communities. both socially and physically. but many Nevadans wonder what radioactive legacy remains. Cities like Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. however. The inevitable boom-and-bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples. like Silver Peak and Goldfield. an 11. And the entire West struggles with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. He later wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky. who once roamed this entire area.949-foot peak in the Toquima Range. Get-richquick towns that once boasted populations in the thousands are now empty shells. Others. and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson.” where the few residents hold fast to the glories of the past. Few are aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty. US For- B Pioneer Territory .
166 n Pioneer Territory .
where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions. and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts. Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. then limber pine at higher elevations. People and services are scarce. with the Mojave Desert baking in the far west near the California border. forests of pinyon pine and juniper. The eastern tour begins northeast of Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park. Department of Defense.000. The first part of Touring covers the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. and in the high elevations of the mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. pinyon pine forests and basin and range that Muir admired. Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket. Toiyabe. low taxes. Geographically. Rocky Mountain elk. Go prepared in a reliable vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not only Nevada. and the narrow mountains and valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. There are portions of Death Valley National Park. desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the mountains. temperatures routinely climb above 120°. but the rest of the country. Pioneer Territory Touring Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas. Humboldt and Inyo National Forests. giving way to serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills. There is plenty of unspoiled territory.Touring n 167 est Service. In the lowlands. smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles. and six state parks to explore. They’ve come for the unique mix of open spaces. In the Mojave Desert. affordable housing . the following section assumes adventurers will start there. four federally designated wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country. Pahrump About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump. Nevada Division of State Parks. a rapidlygrowing community of about 24.
there’s no competition). blue and white building. the winery offers free tours and houses a fine restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM). Although a bit on the pricey side (hey. The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of prize-winning animals. According to Winona LaDuke. as of this writing. 3810 Winery Road. In 1997. % 702-727-5800. The 22. % 702-751-0821. the food and drink rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. with summer temperatures soaring well above 100°. for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. contact the Chamber of Commerce. Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act. On the south end of town in a modern. 1771 Sagehen Road. The Grape Stomp Festival is held every October. making it one of the fastest growing rural areas in the country. % 702-7276900. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s Yucca Mountain Science Center. often overlooked corner of central Nevada. the waste-bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans. founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone. only winery in Nevada. is the first and. authorizing up to 90. 1141 South Highway 160. It’s also one of the hottest.168 n Pioneer Territory and 216 days of sunshine a year. Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch. Information Sources For more Pahrump information. A Winery in Nevada? Pahrump Valley Vineyards. Pahrump is growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%.000-acre refuge is managed by the US .000 shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. Ash Meadows Hidden in a quiet. mission-style. where the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. % 702-7270896.
however. snipe. It’s no easy job. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet. coyotes and rabbits. % 702-372-5435. contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge headquarters. which lives solely in a fenced-off pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron. and shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season. inaccessible to the general public.Touring n 169 Fish & Wildlife Service. Camping is prohibited inside the refuge. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals. Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. considering that 24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more than 30 places throughout the refuge. prairie falcons. including ducks. coots. HCR 70.300 spread over 545 square miles. Amargosa Valley. To reach the refuge from central Pahrump. % 702-372-1131. moorhens. Pioneer Territory Information Sources For more information. If you’re ready for a break after the 41-mile drive from Pahrump. then head west for about 20 miles. whitefaced ibises. NV 89020. providing homes for several species of aquatic rarities. go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell Vista Road and turn left. view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. for some handmade Mexican food. great blue herons. Visitors can. including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish. Swimming is allowed in Crystal Reservoir. Amargosa Valley With a population of about 1. . mallards. giving it a higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country. and the second-greatest in all of North America. Box 610Z. whose primary purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road. following the signs to Ash Meadows. and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs. the unincorporated town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room.
and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News. Located on US 95 29 miles northwest of Amargosa Valley. Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada.000. Rhyolite was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among the characteristic green rocks in 1904.170 n Pioneer Territory Information Sources Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce. and the old train depot. PO Box 6102. three newspapers. and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee. Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace Creek (California) visitors center. % 702-5532200. Amargosa Valley. NV 89020. maps. . The combined fanfare of Beatty Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty provides information. one of the most photogenic ghost towns in the West. Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite. % 702-3725459. A group called the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future generations through fundraisers and walking tours. Rhyolite was the center of the mining boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once supported a population of 8. Now recognized as a state historic site. 50 saloons. for more information. built with marble floors at a cost of $90. Some of the well-preserved structures include Tom T. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked.000.000 claims over 30 square miles. 19 hotels. the gray. two hospitals and a busy red-light district. constructed in 1905 almost entirely of glass bottles. stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building. HC 70. Information Sources Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street. Kelly’s Bottle House. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and counted 2. Beatty The Gateway to Death Valley.
In the first decade of the 20th century. the largest of the mines had been played out and shut down. which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun. and in 1923 a fire destroyed most of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. went 42 bloody rounds before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow.000 a day worth of ore in 1907. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore until about 1910. . constructed in 1908 for $500. Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of US 95. 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. The 1906 world lightweight championship bout. contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce. It boasted an all-mahogany lobby. % 702-553-2424. promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard. but because of its proximity to the Amargosa River. Once the largest city in the state. Local residents were used as models. TIP Pioneer Territory Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks. By 1920.000. shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. Today a population of about 400 lives out the dream here. Goldfield’s mines were producing $10. keeping a population of more than 20. concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left. when the money ran dry. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick Goldfield Hotel. the settlement of Gold Center was developed not for the sake of mineral riches.Touring n 171 Information Sources For more information. turn-of-the-century frontier community. a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper. Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a wellpreserved. who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to create molds. however. a massive project begun by artist Albert Szukalski in 1984. crystal chandeliers. Between Beatty and Rhyolite. the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd assortment of large-scale sculpture. Today the remains of stone buildings.000 dizzy with gold fever. life-size. and the 24-foot-high silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion. Goldfield Founded in 1902.” a collection of white.
contact the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce. however. 301 Brougher Avenue. a nonprofit conservation group that cares for threatened and endangered animals. % 702-482-9676. About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95. ? DID YOU KNOW? Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904. the town of Gold Point is still breathing. . Stop to quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years. % 702-485-6365. % 702482-3558. built in 1908 and still in use today. more than 130 years after it was founded as Lime Point. pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the Chamber of Commerce. was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. NV 266 and unpaved NV 774. and spend a few hours following its trail. then head to The Mozart for a quick bite to eat. Gold Point also offers RV hookups and guided tours. Gold Point is also the home of Earth Connections. Information Sources For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point. the Central Nevada Museum. including the old post office that is now the local museum. Tonopah The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. and east-west-running US 6.172 n Pioneer Territory Renovations are about 80% complete. with the locals always eager to find a buyer to finish the job. Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376. Before heading out. around the time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer at the Mizpah Hotel. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road. Tonopah has ridden the roller coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set off the local boom in 1900.
The hillsides abound with the original headframes. photographs and exhibits. which total more than 260. with Hawthorne the new seat. As this is being written. As a judge.000 acres. Bartlett House. Admission is free. mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous mining artifacts. 9 AM to 5 PM. When the 400-square-mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927. Mineral. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883. near the end of Queen Street below Mount Oddie. which helped put the state on the map. Bartlett was primarily responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws. where US 95 continues north and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne.Touring n 173 boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection of artifacts. Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome. including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6% of the population. A library. Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 NeoClassical Nye County Courthouse. including a map room. ore bins. the town exploded – figuratively – and . which dates to 1906. The museum is open daily. Like many Nevada locales. state senator Fred Balzar helped carve out a new county. the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah mining claim. the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House. see below under On Foot. and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping terminus at Hawthorne. and the 1907 George A. Located on the north edge of town. Gold was discovered near here in 1860. call % 702-482-5355. not to mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s heyday. Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. No doubt he carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale. power plants. For more information. park officials are planning regular tours on Saturdays. but lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. For more on these wonderful regions. The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems. are available by special request. In 1911. slide show and research facilities.
fire and railroad equipment. however. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the Civil War era. To reach Candelaria.174 n Pioneer Territory by World War II the mostly military population was 14. Both states set up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County.500 people. encircling Hawthorne and its 5. (See On Water. Almost 15 miles long and six miles wide. Take this road six miles to the town. At the zenith of its existence. Nevada seat and the Mono . The main attraction. and by 1890 the good times were over. noon to 4 PM in winter. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world. below. restaurant and Native American gift shop. the town boasted 1. the village of Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center.000. cameras and photography. be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun & Tackle. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and Sundays. Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. take US 95 south from Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked. Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and Rodeo every September. what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found about an hour southwest of Hawthorne. and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. the states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. a combination truck stop. % 702-945-3266. The museum is open Monday through Friday. minerals. 11 AM to 5 PM in summer. The Mineral County Museum. to inquire about current fishing conditions and the latest gear and maps. where US 95 and ALT US 95 split.) Before heading to the lake. shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining. just three miles from the California border. a number of hotels and restaurants and a newspaper. the ghost town of Candelaria is easily accessible via paved roads. Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank building and other small structures. at the corner of 10th and D streets. 898 E Street. About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne. The mid-1880s saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria. paved road on the right.000 residents. To see where it all started. is nearby Walker Lake. Victorian furniture. Near the northern tip of the lake. wildlife and fossils. % 702-945-5142. rocks. Admission is free. but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s.
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of Aurora.
For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County Chamber of Commerce, % 702-945-5896.
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95 northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was incorporated in 1907. Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre. The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, % 702-463-6576, certainly lives up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-thecentury items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, % 702-463-2245, are always eager to help a traveler.
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka, whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada. Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota, in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field, % 702-463-3304. Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers, campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils, geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months, hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith Valley.
For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, % 702-885-6000. North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small
mammals and a large population of Rio Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish, bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, % 702-463-2741.
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, % 702-397-2193, just south of town on NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924. Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gamingfueled modern boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31 Mesquite Boulevard, % 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch, % 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet
shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil. More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.
For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, % 702-346-2902.
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.” In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, % 702726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.
State Parks Near Caliente Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond. The park. The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. Kershaw-Ryan State Park. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March. From Caliente. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife. a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake.000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border. set at 5. pinyon and juniper forests. below). The 2. which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater. is open year-round. but travel is not advised during winter months. All of them offer overnight camping. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5. Boats are not recommended. % 702-728-4467. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs. three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot. native plants and unique rock formations.Touring n 179 Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. along with many other events. From .200 acres come complete with deep canyons. located in a long. narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls.200 feet. contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region. Pioneer Territory The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge. There are 42 campsites. winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. For information on any or all. go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline.
which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs. Many of them are buried on Boot Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town. government cover-ups. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets. Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. There are 37 campsites. men in black and all things conspiratorial. All told. Pioche Just 25 miles north of Caliente.000.200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. % 702-962-5215. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. ? DID YOU KNOW? Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots on before a single resident died of natural causes. for a walking/driving tour map. they ran up to $1 million. From Caliente. but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence that more UFOs are . hazy afternoon. Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse. Packed with historic points of interest. true believers theorize. Winter travelers might also find snow here.180 n Pioneer Territory Caliente. The original building costs totaled $16. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March. The pavement passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. The Extraterrestrial Highway It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history. the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. The feds admit only that there is an Air Force facility at Groom Lake. the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy. head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the alien occupants were brought in the 1950s.
a bar and cemetery. selling souvenirs and literature. Memorial Day through Labor Day only. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk rockers. The park is open all year. Ichthyosaurs. while guntoting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. The fossilized remains of a large group of them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. Berlin is an impressively preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an 1895 silver strike. The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause. % 702-729-2515. The existence of alien technology here is utterly wild speculation. but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings. stop at the Little A’Le’Inn. where you are asked to picture these bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go for $6 a night. located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. TIP Pioneer Territory Adventures n On Foot Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government. claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste. were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters beginning some 240 million years ago. but it’s widely held that the area has been the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40 years. The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away. If you’re in the neighborhood. sleeping quarters.Adventures n 181 seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world. Today visitors can view the fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behe- . A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts. Ask him about the weekly UFO watches held south of town. or fish lizards. a thought scarier than any little green men. including the old mill.
June. There are numerous access points to the 115. The southern end of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. The trail seems faint at times. From here. where desert bighorn sheep.000acre region from NV 89 on the west side of the mountains and NV 376 on the east side. follow the ridge up steeply until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. The footpath runs 67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. October and November. The last mile or so requires some boulder hopping. Boundary Peak Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary Peak. then go south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to a dirt road leading west. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road. The trail climbs nearly 2. August. through Gabbs. the Toiyabe Crest Trail. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale. Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest designated wilderness in Nevada. so always continue up toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. turn right. and roll on six more miles to the parking area. The hike begins on the road. From here go seven miles to a junction. Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. July. Located in the relatively dry.000 feet in 3½ miles. drive 24 miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles. including feeder paths for the granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes. Interpretive tours are held in March. Arc Dome Wilderness In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah. Boundary Peak is accessible via an eightmile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10 hours. To reach the park from Hawthorne. Return the way you came. the highest point in Nevada at 13. Keep to the ridge and continue heading upward. beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference.182 n Pioneer Territory moth that makes a great white shark look puny. April. travel west six miles to NV 773. For more information. call % 702-867-3001. elk. The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike. deer. almost tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border.140 feet. passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. mountain lion. Take the Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. following a stream into Trail Canyon. until finally you reach the summit and its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. to NV 884. up through the sparse forest of . then half a mile east.
a total of 10 miles from the trailhead. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail. Consult Toms Canyon. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike. the trail gains 1.020-foot Peavine Peak. nine miles from the trailhead.400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak. limber pine. where it crosses the water several times. offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River. go through the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of 11. north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080. Pioneer Territory Alta Toquima Wilderness Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range. the trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. About 500 yards beyond the mill. The 38.000 acres are covered with sagebrush. then drops through the sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. pinyon pine and juniper. Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the two-mile “road” to the trailhead.Adventures n 183 pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10. The path descends further. continues a steep ascent to another saddle. too. notice the intersection with the North Twin River Trail. USGS quads for Carvers NW. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture. The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast. and at higher elevations. Continue straight on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the drainage. . Farrington Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike.361-foot Arc Dome. drive northwest three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the east. reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it. The main trail leads straight ahead. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine Canyon alongside the creek. Pine Creek. meets the Toiyabe Crest Trail. another narrow. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a breath here). About a mile and a half later. see the Pony Express Territory chapter. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon marks a point three miles from the trailhead. up and up alongside the South Twin River. South Toiyabe Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike. For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail.
gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline. The summit trail.184 n Pioneer Territory one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer Territory. It’s roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff. In fact. Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness. the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jefferson Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements. 13½ strenuous miles round-trip. . then sharply northwest to the South Summit. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful. literally and figuratively. the perfect place to rest up for an assault on the summit. After turning west. deer and coyote. is imposing Mount Jefferson. take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. After locating the trail on the far side of the meadow. which marks the way to Pine Creek. mountain lion. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk. south.949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. From Tonopah. then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century. The high point. The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all the way up. Return the way you came. Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range.949 feet above sea level. 11. From here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and North Summit trails. is lined with aspen and birch. which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground. leads up the road past an intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail.000 years ago. Alta Toquima is most easily reached from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. which tops out at 11. head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009. going west. In the late 1970s archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. Turn left and head toward the highest point. It was used as a hunting camp 5.
The 98. this wilderness entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently sloping terrain. then climbs about half a mile to meet the signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. To complete a nice loop hike. take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route 82 toward Belmont. The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. To reach the trailhead from Tonopah. As you’ll see. so travel with care. then turn right again and trek down the canyon about four miles. with the path to Big Meadow traversing a drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the tableland. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through the aspen groves. turn right and walk three miles east to Cottonwood Creek. and the skills to use them. then seven more miles into Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. a network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC. Birds of prey like hawks and golden eagles patrol the skies over 10. so pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated. From the trailhead. climbing up the creek drainage. were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. let others know your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time. This is remote. Elk.Adventures n 185 TAKE CARE Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of maintenance. with Dry Lake off to the west. Head north 26 miles to Belmont. also called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose).000 acres. are characterized by a unique 12-squaremile plateau and one of the most expansive aspen forests in Nevada. lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to the trailhead. Hikers should have maps and a compass. following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain. set aside in 1989. rugged country. the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas. following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join Barley Creek at the Pioneer Territory .856foot Monitor Peak. The main trail continues straight ahead. Table Mountain Wilderness Table Mountain Wilderness. grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands. The trail first splits at mile three. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake.
the route goes generally north and east to a junction. Cathedral Gorge State Park In Cathedral Gorge State Park. . % 702-4826286. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain. The two ends are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable sources of information for hikers and backpackers. the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide. the Waterfall Trail is an easy twomile walk near the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and juniper. there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. some will lead hikes and photography trips. The picnic area is about half a mile to the northeast as the crow flies. Enjoy the views. crosses the water and begins a steep. Alta Toquima and Table Mountain wilderness areas. then descending into Ash Canyon. where a right turn leads up and then back down to Barley Creek again. turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. Once atop the plateau. Start on the trail that heads due north toward Miller Point. & For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome. Barley Creek Trail continues up Barley Creek about a mile and half. Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks In nearby Beaver Dam State Park. Also close by. While they specialize in hunting and/or fishing.186 n Pioneer Territory original trailhead. Meanwhile. Hiking Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. climbing 800 feet to the valley rim. refer to Michael C. 1997. in Echo Canyon State Park. The trail provides access to the backcountry on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo Canyon. White’s masterful book. then continue south two miles back to the campground. half-mile switchback up and out of the drainage. Wilderness Press.
Mason Valley Guide Service. Stahl. 89049. Lewis. turn left and head due south. PO Box 168. Lund Gary Luisetti. 89025. % 702-283-7797. PO Box 65. Just beyond the right-of-way. HCR 60. The road turns east briefly. Moapa Adam R. 89447. which. Round Mountain William A. Grand Slam Safaris. Galvin. Yerington Marty S. PO Box 725. Timberline Outfitters. The latter path right peters out after half a mile. Expeditions Unlimited.108 feet.) The unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to complete an excellent loop. you’ve gone too far. 89045. (If you pass Millers. 89430. Nicholas Perchetti. % 702-465-2598. 89045. climbing into a small valley. Box 77206. is one of the highest points in Esmeralda County. PO Box 428. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just a few minutes. % 702-482-6422.. % 702-964-2145. 89317. at 9. Berg. % 702-482-6258. unmarked hike to the summit. 8½ miles from US 95. . Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles to an unpaved road running southwest. leaving a strenuous. 27 Smith Gage Road. Smith. PO Box 1149. then continues south to a junction. PO Box 162. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Roy Lerg. Jr. Mustang Outfitters.Adventures n 187 Tonopah Stanley R. 89049. Pioneer Territory n On Wheels Lone Mountain A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain. Howard. % 702-964-1207. Timberline Outfitters. and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward Lone Mountain. James S. % 702-463-4497.
Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson. The historic highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church. Side roads provide access across the valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. the sixth-highest peak in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan.188 n Pioneer Territory Big Smoky Valley A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley. known for abundant wildlife. Continuing north. Just north of Pine Creek. however. The pavement runs out east of town and the trip continues. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost $22. so keep your distance. % 702377-2490. Route 82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly. Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road). then north again through Monitor Valley along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range.000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out around 1914. The other ruins are on private property. Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. The liveliest spirits in this almostghost are found at the two watering holes. For road conditions. contact the Nevada Highway Patrol in Tonopah. one of the only remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote . % 702-482-6331. The Belmont Saloon. Moores Creek Road runs across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River. Information Sources For more information on this and other drives. Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and Charnock Pass. which was built in nearby Belmont in 1874. heading northeast 13 miles to the Belmont National Historic District. is open for business on weekends. the road passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon. at the junction of NV 376 and NV 377. then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. contact the Greater Smoky Valley Chamber of Commerce. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until 1905. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon. and Pine Creek. Chimney Springs A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs.000 to construct in 1876. Round Mountain Gold still operates here. where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness. busted and boomed again between 1905 and 1909. which was first settled in the 1860s. A few dozen people still live in the area. Belmont saw most of the 2. Manhattan boomed. with dredging continuing into the 1970s.
The byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle. NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine. where it follows Camp Valley Creek before turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. Chimney Springs can be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. The springs are half a mile away. where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart of Lake Valley. take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley. Going north and east on BLM Road 4045. Wilson National Back Country Byway. As tempting as a bath might seem. Wind-sculpted cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. % 702-482-7800. the fauna changes to ponderosa. Wilson National Back Country Byway In east-central Nevada. but check on road conditions before you go. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans. Three hot pools are found on two acres here. Continuing north. Spring brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. mountain mahogany and aspen. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. ? DID YOU KNOW? In the early 1860s. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months. the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad Meadow Valley and Camp Valley. to establish missions. but those in Eagle Valley stayed on. stay out. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. but the springfish are protected as a threatened species. . A six-mile drive leads to the access road on the left. past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. Take an unpaved road . the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek Range. The byway gradually descends from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta Road).2 mile west of Lockes going south. and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley. then part of Utah Territory.Adventures n 189 as it is unique. As the scenery becomes more dramatic. then up a narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park. Mormon settlers were sent to this region. Located in a portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. From Pioche. For more information contact the BLM. Pioneer Territory Mt. Not only is the water very hot.
140-foot Boundary Peak. % 702727-4504. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are somewhat remote. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road. At Oakridge Landing. The road follows the creek west into the mountains.190 n Pioneer Territory TAKE CARE There are no services along the byway. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. Two of the best spots are Peavine . % 702-727-8276. Chiatovich is stocked annually with rainbow trout. Just a mile north of Dyer. Less than a mile southwest of Dyer. 5340 South Oakridge Road. brown. reachable from Tonopah by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale. offering angling in the shadow of Nevada’s highest mountain. you pay $3 per pound for what you catch. but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel full of trout. % 702289-4865. but the savvy angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water. where no license is required and tackle is available for rent. Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked. cutthroat and rainbow trout. so take the necessary precautions before heading out. n On Water Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra supplies. Information Sources For more information and a map. The most popular stream in the area is Chiatovich Creek. Peavine Creek & Twin River There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between Tonopah and Austin. Esmeralda County Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California border. Local services are available in the town of Dyer. contact the BLM. where six miles of fishable waters contain a natural population of brook. then continuing west on US 6 six miles to NV 773. 13. NV 264 passes Leidy Creek. Brookies and cutthroat also abound.
exacerbated by a high evaporation rate and occasional droughts.7 miles north of Hawthorne). picnic facilities and boat ramp. rainbow and brown trout. There are more than 15 miles of fishable waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat. % 702-482-6286. October and November. The lake is named for Joe Walker.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground and along the creek into Toms Canyon. Beginning at the southern end of the lake. In fact.Adventures n 191 Creek and Twin River. the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army. Peavine is located on Toiyabe National Forest land. The very future of Walker Lake is threatened. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. reached from Tonopah by driving about 34 miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley. when the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours. with more primitive campsites and ramps available at Tamarack Beach (18. Walker Lake also welcomes water skiers and wind surfers. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival. huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern Nevada.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19. April. then taking the signed turnoff to Peavine campground. Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation covers the northern end). contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake each spring. by the diversion of Walker River water for farming and commercial use. Covering 37. joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from across Nevada and California. About 70 miles north of Tonopah. casting for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles). however. For more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range.000 acres. Pioneer Territory Walker Lake Only five miles north of Hawthorne. a boat ramp and primitive camping are found at Old Ski Beach (9. a pathfinder and scout who led Captain John C.4 miles). After the road peters out. anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river. the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880. Twin River is accessed from the intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. while Walker Lake State Recreation Area (12. Fishing derbies are held in February. . The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for hundreds of common loons.
North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche. about 13 miles south of the confluence. popular Echo Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply of rainbows. Brown trout. Desert bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides. % 760-872-2533 . Spring Valley State Park is another oft-fished spot. % 702-394-4040. Lake Mead A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead. Contact the refuge office. high-walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Bishop. but motors are prohibited. Howe. 633 Schley Street. Contact Lake Mead National Recreation Area. NV 89415. The nearest put-in is at full-service Overton Beach Marina. Boaters are welcome. with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from southern Nevada.000 acres. both brown and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. Kathleen L. 93514. for details. For more information or to become a member ($20 donation). Classic Anglers. CA. write the group at PO Box 867. where the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow. Watersports Outfitters The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master guides.192 n Pioneer Territory TIP The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without jeopardizing upstream interests. while Canada geese. are the main attraction here. Upper Pahranagat Lake in the National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5. Upper Pahranagat Lake Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. about conditions and weather reports before heading out. largemouth bass and white crappie. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up and careless boaters are occasionally swamped. % 702-725-3417. which are stocked in spring and fall. Hawthorne.
% 702-964-2145. Where to Stay & Eat n Accommodations Pahrump There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump. at least temporarily. The family-style outings. Advance reservations are highly suggested. Timberline Outfitters. Pioneer Territory n On Horseback In Pahrump. % 702-463-4497 Round Mountain William A. PO Box 1149. Stahl. PO Box 168. % 702-482-6422. % 702-3721717. Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours. 89049.Where to Stay & Eat n 193 Yerington Marty S. 89104. The big enchilada is Saddle West. Mason Valley Guide Service. provide lessons in natural history and Native American culture. % 702-482-6258. Berg. Mustang Outfitters. Tonopah Stanley R. HCR 60. % 702-889-8844. Rates start at $100 and go up from there. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard. 1220 South Highway 160. which include an authentic trailside barbecue. is a new company started by local Ron Matheny. who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. PO Box 65. 89045. 89447. Big Smoky Valley Outfitters. Howard. PO Box 725. % 702-964-1207. Nicholas Perchetti. % 800-GEDDYHO TE L . 89045. but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. the Longhorn Cattle Company Guest Ranch. Box 77206. Jr. James S.. Timberline Outfitters. 89049. Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente. Suite 9B. invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take part in roundups and enjoy a home. Galvin. home on the range.
% 702-553-2225. horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. and the 54-room Phoenix Inn. 420 West Main Street. $. along with a pool and honeymoon room. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. There are 60 rooms.194 n Pioneer Territory UP. The other two motels are the El Portal. With 110 rooms. has 32 rooms. including a heated pool. while the inn offers laundry services. Goldfield The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon. it’s a mighty fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. $-$$. Beatty Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South. a casino with live 21. a convenience store. . Highway 160 at Loop Road. the two rooms are quite a lot nicer. though. US 95 at First Street. % 800-508-9493. Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave. % 702-553-2250. $-$$. There are some surprises here usually found in pricier digs. % 702-553-2333. is a two-story job with 44 rooms that were redone in 1993. including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. the Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. a restaurant. when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West. The casino boats live blackjack and a steak house. Don’t worry. non-smoking rooms and a pool. % 702-4853431. The Stagecoach on US 95 North. $-$$. 1201 South Highway 160. % 702-727-5100. lounge. casino and lounge. was built in 1905. cable TV and even king rooms with fridge and microwave. offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel. Amargosa Valley This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotelcasino. which has 30 rooms and a pool. 9000 North 5th Avenue. There is also a 24-hour restaurant. 604 Main Street. In short. Even RV campers are welcome to hook up here. along with the ubiquitous casino games and standard restaurant. The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn. a kids’ play area and rooms with kitchenettes are nice. The Exchange Club Motel. $-$$. $-$$. % 702-727-5445. A lounge with live entertainment. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59 during the off-season. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms. Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade. but the main draw is the pool when the thermometer starts bubbling. % 702553-2912. hair salon. $-$$. $-$$. including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a night Sunday through Thursday. $. a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi. $-$$.
lounge. % 702482-5920. $. 323 Main Street. a casino. $. $. % 702-482-6202. $. a pool and whirlpool open May through September. including four two-bedroom units. a restaurant and bar. VCR and tape rentals and a rec room. The Jim Butler Motel. Adjacent to Walker Lake. the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge. 1301 5th Street. the Butler has 25 rooms. 540 F Street. 1100 Main Street. $. The Best Western Desert Lodge. pool and free in-room coffee. $. % 702-945-2660. which offers the added bonus of being next to the historic cemetery. and the 33-room Clown Motel. Just a block away. If you’re into chains.Where to Stay & Eat n 195 Tonopah By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory. Even dogs are welcome. % 702-482-3511. 100 South Main Street. 826 Main Street. 1 Cliff House Road. % 702-945-3321. Pioneer Territory Hawthorne El Capitan Motor Lodge. and the sprawling Station House. % 702-482-6238. a heated pool and a small play area. $$. % 702-945-3352. a restaurant and free coffee. % 702-482-6291. workout equipment. This place has it all: 75 rooms. $. $-$$. a Jacuzzi and a pool. RV parking and free continental breakfast. has been catering to travelers since 1943. 1402 5th Street. a casino. comes highly rated. Dating back to 1908. has 39 rooms. with a restaurant. is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush to Tonopah. 700 Main Street. There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel. restaurants. location is the beauty of Cliffside House Lakeside Resort. the 85-room Silver Queen Motel. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel. 100 North Main Street. The Mizpah also has a small casino and a restaurant and bar with live entertainment. RV hookups. $. Some of the larger. Location. $$. at very reasonable rates. % 702-482-3577. All 45 rooms retain the charm of yesterday. which has 93 rooms. two restaurants. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity & Quality Award. $. % 702-482-9777. free movies and is close to the convention center. the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. lounge with entertainment. location. better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel. % 702-482-6224. with 40 rooms. also has a pool. It has 94 rooms. There are 103 rooms. The . the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn. Tonopah has more than 600 rooms. the 12 rooms are just steps from the water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. % 702-945-2444. 521 North Main Street. 255 Main Street. arcade and laundry.
103 rooms and all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace. a 215-room hotel-casino with restaurants. $-$$. fitness center and live music. which has 14 rooms. try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane. a pool and a hot tub. % 800-346-4611. RV park and four bungalows. More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith. $. 11 North Main Street. $. $$. restaurants. formerly Players Island. bowling alley. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. has 700 rooms. tennis courts. has 67 rooms. airport shuttle. the Hawthorne. which has 14 rooms. at Walker River Resort on Hudson Way. The Casa Blanca. % 702-465-2341. a lounge. the historic Hoye Mansion B&B. bars.900 or so residents. $$-$$$. Yerington The glitziest place in town is Casino West. pool and movie theater. 2827 Highway 208.4 hotel rooms for every one of its 1. pool and spa. and its three nicely appointed bedrooms. live entertainment. pool. including dozens of suites. $. % 702-465-2959. which at last count had 1. % 702-945-3316. $$. The resort has five cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. % 800-896-4567. Jacuzzi. % 702-465-2573. $-$$$. and the Rocket. % 800-621-0187. family fun center and an airport shuttle. Jacuzzi. % 702-463-2998. The quieter Budget Inn & Suites. 39 North Center Street. % 702-463-2481. . movie theater and kids’ play area. 694 Sierra Highway. % 702-945-2573. Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall. with a 24-hour casino. a pair of family-style restaurants. has five rooms. Close by is Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast. Mesquite How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1. golf course. 720 Sierra Highway. 17 miles southwest of Yerington. the 23-room Holiday Lodge. % 702-346-7444. which has two non-smoking rooms. with blueprints for hundreds more. various restaurants. Just west of Smith in Wellington. Run by the Masini family. % 702-945-2544. $$-$$$. $-$$. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. entertainment. $-$$. To find a quieter environment. a golf course. a pool. a 925-seat showroom. on the corner of 5th and J streets. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin River Hotel. % 702-463-2991. 301 Mesa Boulevard.196 n Pioneer Territory handful of generic motels includes the seven-room Anchor. $$-$$$. 965 Sierra Highway. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the Rancho Mesquite. % 702-945-2143. Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. % 800-346-7721. Jacuzzi. $-$$. $$. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. $. pool. 390 North Sandhill Road.
has great lunch specials between 11 AM and 3 PM. Each of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. and the unfortunately named Shady Motel. 884 A Street. but there was a time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. also have full-service restaurants. $. which has 22 rooms. 1220 South Highway 160. Pioneer Territory Rachel In the shadow of Area 51. $-$$. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. % 702-727-6440. % 702-962-5551. pharmacy and bank. just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372. there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. which has five rooms. % 702-727-7300. the Silver Spur. % 702-727-7777. % 702726-3777. a miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. A large Smith’s Food & Drug Center. % 702-727-0909. % 702-727-2404. % 702-9625404. % 702-726-3106.Where to Stay & Eat n 197 Caliente If you’re staying here. Flying saucer parking is out back. has 13 rooms. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter. At Saddle West Casino. is open 24 hours a day. % 702-751-7777. Rose Garden. Besides. % 702-726-3291. 601 South Highway 160. $. . No fast food. a restaurant and bar. might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town. and the nine-room Motel Pioche. and the buffet starts at $2. Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375. n Restaurants Pahrump A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert. 450 Front Street. Pioche If the nearby campgrounds are full. $. 100 LaCour Street. The two other inns in town are the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel.99. The baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. Stagestop Casino. 100 West Stagecoach Road. Your best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93. on NV 160 in Valley View Plaza. is complete with a full-service bakery and deli. and welcomes pets. $. $-$$. and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard. % 702-729-2515.
% 702-5532225. % 800-4-BIG-WIN. % 702-945-1700. Beatty Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main Street. 348 North Main Street. 11 North Main Street. try Jack’s Family Restaurant. The . 1291 5th Street. a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into the parched desert. fill the menu. Choice is the catch of the day at the Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North. % 702482-9777. 923 5th Street. % 702-4823885. and Burro Inn. open until 9 PM. Maggies. % 702-945-3320. % 702-482-6202. The Nebraska Steakhouse at the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling. 100 North Main Street. Traditional American and Continental fare. features both a 24-hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib. % 702-945-3908. Yerington Casino West. including excellent seafood. Hawthorne The blue and white El Capitan. The living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel. % 702-945-2727. features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. you could do worse than El Marques. or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food. also has a 24-hour café. The Ranch House Coffee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone steak. The Exchange Club. where Alexander’s Steak House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. % 702-9452994. also have family-style restaurants. The DE&BF is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. Tonopah The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. % 800508-9493. % 702-553-2368. The Station House. 501 I Street. while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great for a casual lunch or dinner. If you’re in the mood for Mexican. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion. or the Jolly Kone Drive-In. % 702-945-3321. For quick bites of harmless road-trip treats. 570 E Street. 785 E Street. is the home of two restaurants. 1100 Main Street. % 702-945-5253. has a great $7. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. and an all-you-can-eat buffet and salad bar. % 702-463-2481. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of the Cliff House at Walker Lake. try Happy Buddha. % 702-553-2111.198 n Pioneer Territory Amargosa Valley The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line. 540 F Street.
Dini’s Luck Club. Two blocks up. which serves breakfast. % 702-727-2314. % 702-4623300. n Camping Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest. % 702463-2868. Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of . % 800-621-0187. To reach the campground from Tonopah. is like a blast from the 50s.700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. Carl’s Burgers. % 800-896-4567. % 702-7263194. % 702-4633707. This private campground operated by Ron and Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. Mesquite It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here – cheap. in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. The Casa Blanca. It has 11 units suited for tents or trailers. serves typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve. serves breakfast. 1137 Mesquite Boulevard. then head about nine miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95. 2281 West Scales Way. Pioneer Territory Caliente The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street. 915 Mesquite Boulevard. also has a 24-hour café and allyou-can-eat buffet. 111 Highway 208. and the Stage Stop Restaurant. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek. % 702-463-2054.Where to Stay & Eat n 199 town’s other casino. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower. 45 North Main Street. lunch and dinner in a family atmosphere. are both known as the finer dining rooms in the area. drive about 34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left. satisfying and never-ending. Five of them are in the Toiyabe Range. lunch and dinner. There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. along with the usual buffet. Peavine Campground is set at 6. offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s. % 800-346-7721. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot and free. 702-726-3138. a “live-action” buffet and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. The Mason Valley Country Club. has a 24-hour coffee shop. 950 Mesquite Boulevard. There’s even an indoor workout facility. It’s a perfect spot for lunch. The Virgin River Hotel. 11 North ALT 95. buffet and fine dining at Redd’s Steakhouse.
From Tonopah. The drive to the campground is arduous and requires a 4WD vehicle. Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground has 10 sites for tents set at 7. To reach the campground from Tonopah.700 feet. Forest Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the aspens. % 702-687-6100.200 n Pioneer Territory Peavine campground at the end of the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads. A primitive public campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and continue north 27 miles to Belmont. Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne. Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains. for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. For information. The campground is another three miles away. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness.000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah. then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005. above. privately owned Desert Lake Campground. . through Belmont. the unpaved road goes south briefly. go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs Poleline Road) and turn right. contact the BLM. On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89. From here. % 702-4826286. The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness.100foot level. running east six miles to Barley Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. unimproved Cow Canyon Campground is set at 8.800 feet in the Monitor Range. There are 11 sites set at 6. Located in Table Mountain Wilderness. see On Foot. Pine Creek Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. providing access to fishing and hiking. For directions. There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7. For more information and maps on camping in the Toiyabe. There is no running water and no fee. To reach the campground from Tonopah. There is easy access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. offers sites for $11 per night. % 702-945-3373. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and turn right. take NV 376 north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast. then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the campground.
Frank Amato Publications. Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer. Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West. Falcon Press Publishing. Eastern and Historical Nevada by Richard Moreno. Suggested Reading . 1995. Falcon Press Publishing. DeLorme. 1994. Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs. The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern. Childrens Museum of Northern Nevada. 1995. Noonday Press. 1990. 1996. David Communications. AAA California/Nevada CampBook. Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley. 1993. American Automobile Association. Rather these are suggestions for those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to Nevada. They are listed in alphabetical order. 1997. published by the State of Nevada. Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman. American Automobile Association. Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson. Henry Holt and Company. AAA California/Nevada TourBook. David Banks and Lucinda Handley. 1993. Basin and Range by John McPhee. 1997. 1998. The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno. The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs. Moon Publishing. Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches.Suggested Reading This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive.
1993. Clark. White. 1997. Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking Guide by Michael C. 1993. Gem Guides Book Company.202 n Suggested Reading Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner. Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. . 1995. Roughing It by Mark Twain. American & Geographic World Publishing. Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History. Jr. The Globe Pequot Press. Falcon Press Publishing. The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno. 1992. 1997.. Falcon Press Publishing. Mojave Books. Legend and Description by David J. 1997. 1969. La Siesta Press. Maturi. Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell. Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Stolley. Bischoff. Wilderness Press. Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L.
Las Vegas territory. 61 Arc Dome Wilderness. 89. 117-119. 142. 186 Belmont. 27. 155 boating. 193. 76. 92-96. 77. 194. 193-197. biking. 61 Brislecone Pine-Glacier Trail. 182 Bowers Mansion County Park. 103. see water sports Bonneville Salt Flats. 114-115 Alta Toquima Wilderness. 115. Pioneer territory. special events. 104. camping. 179. 85. 54-55. 169. 146. Pony Express territory. 179. 41-43. 113. see transportation air tours. wildlife and bird watching antelope. 17. 193 Aurora. biking. accommodations. 15-16. 29. 187-190. see water sports car rental. 119-120. safety rules. 36. 144. 43-44. 144. camping. 67-70. 75-76. 115-116 ballooning.Index 4WD tours and outfitters. see Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Blue Lakes. 38. 188 Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park. 137 Candelaria. 48 Bureau of Land Management (BLM). 187-188 biking. 49. 185. touring. Pioneer territory. 15-16 bird watching. 78. 169-170 Anasazi people. 126. 199-201. hiking outfit- Index . Bonneville Salt Flats. 15-16 accommodations: Cowboy country. 124 auto racing. 34-35 Boundary Peak. Lovelock Indian Cave. 156160. 192 Big Smoky Valley. 198. Pony Express territory. 123. 125-128. fishing. 152. Reno-Tahoe area. touring. skydiving. price scale. Mount Jefferson. 174 canoeing. 135. see wildlife and bird watching Black Rock Desert. 132. 183-184. Ichthyosaur State Park. 178-180 camping: Cowboy country. restaurants. 177 Angel Lake: camping. restaurants. hiking. 152. 2. 123 Baker Lake Trail. 102. 142. 86. Pony Express territory. fishing. see also camping. 32. 182. Las Vegas area. 170-171 Beaver Dam State Park. outfitters. see transportation Carson City. 35. 3135. 10. 174-175 Austin. 194. 15-16. 181-182 bighorn sheep. 48-49. 200 Basque people. Elko. biking. 10-12. see also petroglyphs. 28. 118. Sand Springs Pony Express Station. 115 bristlecone pine (Pinus longvaea). touring. 27 books. see pronghorn antelope arboretums. 131. 144 Beatty: accommodations. 182-183. Cottonwood Valley. horseback riding. 8386. 118. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. Leonard Rock Shelter. 78 BLM. 121. 144 Bonnie Springs Old Nevada. 198. Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 197. 67 bowling. 117-118.183. 94-95. camping. accommodations. 117. Pioneer territory. 114 Amargosa Valley: accommodations. 129-130 bungee jumping. 164. 200 altitude sickness. hiking. 199-200 archeological sites: Floyd Lamb State Park. 26-27 buses. 120-123. specific towns airlines. wild. 91 Barley Creek. 46. touring. 168-169. 144 backpacking. 50-52. 132-133. 163-164. Reno-Tahoe area. festivals. camping. 104-107. restaurants. events. Las Vegas. 184. wagon trips. transportation. restaurants. 181-182. Reno-Tahoe area. 48-49 Alpine Lakes Trail. 42 burros. camping. 154 animal life. see museums and art galleries Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge: touring. events. 13-15. safety rules. 13. 17. pictographs art galleries. see also hiking Baker: accommodations. see transportation Caliente: accommodations. 187-190. 98 Camp Winfield Scott. see also zoos. 199. 203-204 Boulder City: boating outfitters.
106 Chimney Dam Reservoir. 170-171 Denio Junction. 184. 117. 6-7 ters. 27 Fort Churchill State Historic Park. 43-44. 22. camping. Toquima Cave. 75. 70. 186 elk. see also wildlife and bird watching Elko. events. special events. 73. 139. 174-175. 55 Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center. 176. 109 Glacier Trail. 152. 149-150. 70-71. hiking. pupfish. fishing. 186 Cave Lake State Park. 192. 97. 129-164 Cowboy Music Gathering. 90 Diana’s Punchbowl. Camp Winfield Scott. auto racing. Samuel.. 155-156. 138-139. 144. see also Lahontan State Recreation Area festivals. 179. 77. hiking. 119. 110. 163-164. 126-127. 87 Dayton. 77-78 Extraterrestrial Highway. 109. accommodations. 35-36. 188-189 fishing. 75 Galena Creek County Park. 139 cruises. 3. 13-15. 37-41. restaurants. Las Vegas territory. camping. 17. 109-110 Esmeralda County: fishing. safety rules. 120-121. 116. 29. 139 Cowboy Poetry Gathering. touring. 112 Genoa. 74 Death Valley National Park.204 n Index Eureka: accommodations. restaurants. 122-123. 185. 86-89 Floyd Lamb State Park. 188-189 Clemens. camping. Lehman Caves. accommodations. 98 fossils. 108 events: Cowboy country. 143. 194-195. 176. 83. Treasure City. 179. 95 Desert National Wildlife Refuge. horseback riding. 15-16. 118. 200 Cowboy Country. Gold Center. 106. 176 ghost towns: Aurora. 160 Goshute Mountains. 157-158. camping. 127. 139140 Ely. hiking. 125. 86. Reno-Tahoe territory. 74. transportation. Candelaria. accommodations. touring. 78 casinos. 180-181 Fallon: accommodations. Rochester Mining District. mercury warnings. 4-5 Gardnerville. skiing. 95 Ghost Dance Religion. 112. 137. 89. 153 Chimney Springs. 170. 177. 40. 82. Northumberland Cave. camping. 109 Echo Canyon State Park. 79. 175 climate. 98. 185. 12. 119. 187-190. 171-172 Gold Point. Metropolis. 121-122. 172 East Fork Carson River: boating. 65 gambling. 93 Davis Creek County Park. 106 diving. 109. biking. 182. 161-162. 131. 112. Pioneer territory. 168. touring. 15-16 Fremont. see water sports Crystal Bay: accommodations. 172 golf. 143-144. 18-19 climbing. outfitters. 179. 167. camping. 100. Rhyolite. touring. 125. 190-193. 126. camping. 171. 109. Hamilton. Reno-Tahoe area. Las Vegas area. 44-48. outfitters. 88. 132-133. 75. see water sports dog-sledding trips. 88 East Humboldt Range: hiking. 137. Las Vegas area. 134-135. 116-117. 181 4WD tours and outfitters. fishing. 12. Lovelock Indian Cave. touring. 152-155. 137. sport-climbing ratings. 14 Colorado River. Mason Valley Trout Hatchery. hiking outfitters. outfitters. 119-120.5 Cathedral Gorge. 71 Cottonwood Creek. 180 Earth Connections. 178. outfitters. 124. 142. 46 Comstock Lode. restaurants. Pony Express territory. 177. restaurants. 147-148 Eberhardt. 111. 170. 102-104. 150-151. 107-108 Eureka Opera House. 137. 115 Gold Center. 174. 142 Great Basin. Midas. 80. Jungo. fishing. 121. 87 Garnet Hill Recreation Area. Eberhardt. 4. fishing. 90 Eagle Valley Reservoir. 169. 155. 125. see events fish. springfish. John C. 67. Shermantown. 171 Goldfield: accommodations. Dunn Hatchery. 120. 110 caves: Cathedral Gorge. Pioneer territory. Cowboy country. 179. restaurants. camping. 190 . 95 Gerlach: accommodations. Pyramid Lake Fishway. Lake Tahoe area.
54. skiing. 198. 181-187. Nevada. 164. camping. horseback riding. Spencer’s Hot Springs. 153. transportation. fishing. 57. events. 46. Reno. 1. 50-52. Las Vegas territory. map. 148-149 Humboldt River. Pioneer territory. 82. 2 Lovelock Indian Cave. hiking. 112 Leonard Rock Shelter. 34-35 Lehman Caves. 40. 37-40. 146. 43. 148-149 jeep tours. 21-22. 99-100. 32-33 Lake Mohave. watersports. 64. special events. 86. 20. 70 Humboldt National Forest. 78. 45. hiking. hiking. 117 hotels. 53-54. transportation. 126 High Rock Canyon: hiking. 13-15. 130. restaurants. 46. 120 Incline Village. 101. Las Vegas territory. 82. 113-114 Grimes Point Archaeological Area. 32 horseback riding. 37-41. 90. restaurants. 52-53. 192. 110-112. 90 helicopter tours. 20-55 Laughlin: accommodations. 89 Lamoille: accommodations. outfitters. touring. 113 Kyle Hot Spring. Midas Hot Spring. 176. 118. skiing. Pony Express territory. 163. see air tours Hemenway Park. events. 44 Las Vegas territory. 46. 7-8 Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. 145-150. 31-35. description of. 83. 107. touring. 132-133 Lund: hiking outfitters. touring. see water sports Kershaw-Ryan State Park. Reno-Tahoe territory. 173-175 Heavenly: skiing and snowboarding. camping. 149-150. 80-81 hiking. 162. 177 mercury warnings. 28. touring and transportation. touring. 159. Reno-Tahoe territory. 64. touring. 116-117. 40-41. restaurants. 103 Hamilton. 162. 98. camping. 186-187.Index Great Basin National Park. biking. 6-9 Las Vegas: accommodations. camping. 78-82 Historic Railroad Trail. 149. 83. snow sports outfitters. restaurants. restaurants. air tours. 47. 179 Kingston. 79. transportation. water sports. hiking outfitters. 41-43. 153 Humbolt Range: fossil and rock hunting. Cowboy country. 75. 102. 129-131. 141-142. camping. 24. 150. 56 Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 3536. hiking. 77. 91-92. 39 history: Cowboy country. 112-117. 55. 36. 38. Kyle Hot Spring. 152. fishing. 150-151 Ichthyosaur State Park. 158. 49-50. 111. 32-33. 91 information sources. touring. Pioneer territory. 109 Hawthorne: accommodations. 152 Lahontan State Recreation Area. 47 lakes. see accommodations hot springs: Chimney Springs. 187 Manhattan. 187 Lovelock: accommodations. 140-141 land. biking. balloning and soaring. 32 Henderson: fishing outfitters and guides. 165-167. 188-189. 65 Lake Tahoe region. 151. 195-196. 29-31. 156. 66. 62. 63-66. 125. restaurants. 57-58. RenoTahoe territory. see 4WD tours and outfitters n 205 Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike. 23-29. touring. Walley’s Hot Springs. Pony Express territory. 166. 41. 48-49. 137 kayaking. Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 160. 132-134 Lovelock Culture. accommodations. 4WD trail. 39. 48. 181 Illipah Reservoir Recreation Area. Pioneer territory. 118 Lone Mountain. camping. hiking outfitters. state. outfitters. 132 Lexington Arch. 78-79 Jungo. boating outfitters. 119 Lake Mead area: boating and fishing. 200-201. outfitters. 93. 19 Jarbidge: accommodations. 127. 106. 119 Index . 193. 65. camping. 1-6 Hoover Dam. 88. 141-142 Jarbidge Wilderness. Pony Express territory. 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Area. 83-84. 188 maps: Lake Tahoe region. 60. Las Vegas. 150. Las Vegas area. camping. 34-35 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area.
71. Sharkeys Nugget Casino. 107. Eureka Sentinel Museum. 158. Searchlight Historical Museum and Mining Park. 171. 106 Pine Creek: camping. 126. 70. 153. 173. 71. 103. 79. Roberts House Museum. 109. 73. 165 museums and art galleries: Barrick Museum of Natural History. 174. Bonneville Speedway Museum. 167-168 Paiutes. 190 Pershing County Courthouse. 188. Fleischmann Planetarium. Las Vegas Natural History Museum. hiking. 25. 173. Stewart Indian Museum. 61. 108. 72-73. 171. Capitol Building and Museum. Clark County Heritage Museum. 34. Northeastern Nevada Museum. 184 Mount Moriah Wilderness: hiking. 8182 Mesquite. fishing. 153 Northumberland Cave. Lied Children’s Discovery Museum. 61. 32. 70-71 mines and mining. 199 Metropolis. 184 Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area. 73. 73. 61 music and theater. 181 Moapa. 163. 25. 26. 34. 8. 102. 199-200. 165 nuclear waste. Tonopah Historic Mining Park. camping. 197-198. 68. 25. 165. Nevada State Museum and Historical Society. Western Folklife Center. 168 Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins. 89 Mount Wilson National Back Country Byway. Guinness World of Records Museum. May Museum and Arboretum. touring. 35. outfitters. 196197. 98. Churchill County Museum & Archives. 69. 189-190 Muir. 77. 43. 175. 4. 113 Mount Rose: camping. 174. 91. 142. Genoa Courthouse Museum. National Automobile Museum. Buckaroo Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. 127 pictographs. accommodations. Wilbur D. 31. 199. 177 Oxbow Nature Study Area. 69. restaurants. 183. 174. 200. 23 Overton: touring. 61. 69. Liberace Museum. see biking Mount Charleston. 177. 34. 80-81 Native American festivals. Carson Valley Museum & Cultural Center. 2. 61. 133. Lyon County Muserum. 25-26. 134 petroglyphs. 71. The Way It Was Museum. hiking outfitters. camping. 73. 26. 106 nuclear testing. 10. Las Vegas Art Museum. 103 Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. 69. 192 Pahrump: accommodations. 2. Marzen House Museum. 29. see biking mountain biking. The Castle. 79-80 Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 135136. White Pine Public Museum. Desert Valley Museum. touring. Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum. 33. 34. 23. hiking. 68. 180 Newberry Mountains: climbing and hiking. Piper’s Opera House. 175. 40 North Fork Little Humboldt River: fishing. see events Naval Air Station Fallon. Keck Minerals Museum. 69. 29 Mount Jefferson. fishing. 175 National Scenic Desert Trail. 75. 151 Million Dollar Courthouse. Northern Nevada Children’s Museum. 25. Nevada Historical Society. Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum. 178179 Old Mormon Fort State Historic Park. 190 Oasis Orvada Gun Club & Ranch. fishing. 175 Paradise Valley: accommodations. Marshall Mint Museum. 107. Lost City Museum. Nevada State Railroad Museum. John. 78. 67. 11 Mosquito Creek. horseback riding. 180 Minden: events. Central Nevada Museum. touring. 26. 3-4. 137-138 Midas Hot Spring. Gold Well Open Air Museum. Brewery Arts Center. 178. 68. 73. 139. 83. 138 Peavine Creek: camping. 2. 187 Mojave Desert. Virginia & Truckee Depot. skiing and snowboarding. 26. 43. 86. 193-194. 25. restaurants. 135. see accommodations motorcycles. Mineral County Museum. 4. Colorado River Museum. Beam Fine Art Gallery. 72. 170. Nevada State Library & Archives. Nevada State Mu- . 177. 173. Mark Twain Museum. 200 motels. Humbolt Museum. 109-110. 142 Midas. 139. 177.206 n Index seum. Northern Nevada Railway Museum.
190. 179 Searchlight. 78. 145-146 prostitution. 140-141 Ruby Valley: outfitters. biking. 187. touring. 59-61. 129-130. 83-84. 91. 76. 186-187. 92 Southern Nevada Zoological Park. 9697. hiking. 106 Siegel. 102 Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway. biking. 112. 77-78. 123-125. 144. touring. Benjamin “Bugsy. 89. 117 Santa Rosa Mountains: camping. bike. 173 Index . 53-54. 153-154 Ruby Mountains: camping. touring. 145 Stateline: accommodations. 144. 198. 134. 48-49 snowboarding. 144. 178-179 Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 180 Pioneer territory. 9-10. Reno-Tahoe area. 146-147 Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. hiking and climbing. camping. 87. see climbing springfish. 90 sport climbing. snow sports outfitters. 17. 77. accommodations. 65 Pony Express territory. 188-189 Rainbow Canyon. 76. see climbing rock hunting. 153 Sparks. 165-201 plant life. hiking. 36. see also specific towns Rhyolite. 18 Teresa Lake: hiking. 9 Sand Mountain. 98. 115. 197 rafting. 96 Steam Geyser Hot Springs. 176 rodeos. 17. fishing. 150-151. 84-85 swimming. 88 Shermantown. 66. 89-91 skydiving. 106 Spooner Lake. 163. outfitters. 181. 27 Spring Mountains: camping. 7-8 Rochester Mining District. fishing. accommodations. 13 Price Lakes. 192 Squaw Creek Reservoir: fishing. 90 soaring. 79-80. camping. 142. water sports. 49-50. fishing. 163.Index Pioche: accommodations. 80 pronghorn antelope. 74-75 Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway. 75 Stella Lake: hiking. 88. 25 South Fork Reservoir: fishing. skiing. 12. Pioneer territory. 197-199. see water sports Table Mountain Wilderness. 185-186. restaurants. 163-164. 193. 152-153 sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). restaurants. 62 Reno-Tahoe territory. 54. 200 temperature chart. 17. 96-97. 117. 156. 103 Round Mountain: outfitters. see skiing snowmobiling. 99-128 pow wows and Native American festivals. 182-183 Toiyabe Range: camping. camping. horse. 109 Shoshone people. 37-38 Reno: accommodations. restaurants. 38-39 Spring Valley State Park. 17. 179. fishing. see music and theater Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. see events price codes. 195. 98. 79. 82. special events. touring. 172-173 Tonopah Historic Mining Park. 143. 160-163. 138 rock climbing. see events Spencer’s Hot Springs. 114-115 theater. 145-146 Schroeder Lake. 197. 193. 180. 170 rivers. 169 Pyramid Lake. 199-200 Tonopah: accommodations. 188-189 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. RenoTahoe area. hiking. 146-147. see events Round House Art Gallery. 104. Las Vegas territory. biking. 46 Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 85. fishing. 56-98 restaurants: Cowboy country. 52 pupfish. climbing and hiking. 94 special events. 54. 154. transportation. 193 Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail: fishing. camping. see mines and mining skiing. motorcycle. 74 races. Pony Express territory. 155 n 207 Rye Patch State Recreation Area (Reservoir). 167. camping. 84. 92-93. auto. 26-27. 114-115 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 143 Rachel. 93-94. 78. 34 Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. hiking. 185 Ponderosa Ranch.” 4 silver. 146. 88 Star Peak: hiking. 42. skiing. 76. 113. Las Vegas area.
62. see transportation transportation: airports. 146. Earth Connections. 196. Mark. 110 Washoe Lake State Park. 168 Winnemucca: accommodations. 144. 80 Valley of Fire State Park. 85. 163-164. 86 Wells: accommodations. 183-184. 102. Pony Express territory. 153-154. 155 . 80 Water Canyon State Recreation Area: camping. Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge. 75. touring. 41. 155. Pioneer territory. 29. 117 Toquima Cave. 98. 62. outfitters. Reno-Tahoe territory. 127. 139. 134-135 Twin River: fishing. Ruby Mountains. hiking outfitters. special events. touring. 156-157. 135-137. Santa Rosa Mountains. 177. 32. 178. 88 Walley’s Hot Springs. 149. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. 111. Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. 199. 172. 150. horseback riding. 167. 134-135 Upper and Lower Price Lakes. 179. 35. touring. 163 water sports: Cowboy country. hiking. 39 vineyards. Lake Mead. 180-181 Unionville: accommodations. 150. water sports. 71-74 Virgin River. 67. 164. 147-148. 185. 157. 163. events. buses. 79-80. 191 UFOs.208 n Index wildlife and bird watching: Alta Toquima Wilderness. 168 zoos. 152-155. 76. 139-140 Treasure City. 117. 95. 176. 160-161. restaurants. 55. Ely Elk Viewing Area. restaurants. 87 Washoe Valley: hiking. Las Vegas territory. 168 Virginia City: accommodations. 143. 106 trains. Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area. 142 Wendover: accommodations. Winnemucca. 191-192 Walker River Indian Reservation. 162. touring. 168-169. 151 Wovoka. climbing and hiking. 119-120. Wilson Canyon. 61. Table Mountain Wilderness. 142-143 Wheeler Peak. 175-177 Yucca Mountain Science Center. Echo Canyon State Park. camping. 70-71 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Monument. restaurants. 25 Topaz Lake. see hiking Wall Canyon Reservoir: fishing. Goshute Mountains. 66. 176 wineries. 97. Oxbow Nature Study Area. 71. restaurants. Sand Springs Desert Study Area. 44-48. wildlife and bird watching. 144. 188-189. 143. Ruby Marsh. 34-35. fishing. 174. camping. 145-146. Arc Dome Wilderness. 114 Wild Horse State Recreation Area (Reservoir): camping. restaurants. 190-193. 110. events. Jack’s Valley Road. hiking. 38. 193. 29-30. camping. camping. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. 187. fishing. 200-201. 191-192. 192. Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. 77-78. see plant life tufas. 98 Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex. 176 Yerington: accommodations. 109 trees. 20. camping. 155. 45. Pioneer territory. 33. hiking. outfitters. 89. 62. 193 Walker Lake. 159. 30-31. touring. 134 Twain. 104. 31. 80. 83. camping. 159-160. 68. High Rock Canyon. 47 wagon tours and outfitters. Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area. 182-183. Desert National Wildlife Refuge. 174 walking. Walker Lake. 127. Cleve Creek Campground. events. rental cars. Amtrak. 151 Wilson Canyon. 73. hiking outfitters. 31. 80-81. 112. touring. Hemenway Park. 26-27. outfitters.
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