PI84

SOME NEW POSSIBILITIES IN FANCY COLOUR AND

WEAVE EFFECTS
By Professor A. T. KING, B.SC, F.I.C.
l>v lltr I I'xlili' hisdfiilt'
Before discussing the wool fabric effects with which this contribution is more
particularly concerned, a few brief remarks may be permitted regarding pro-
duction of novel eflocts in textile fabrics in general.
This, it need hardly be said, is a many-sided enterprise. While the designer's
part is paramount in creating the basic novelty in appearance from weave effect
alone, this would be very circumscribed were it not for the multiplicity of yarn
characters, colour combinations, and finishing effects which can be variously
superimposed on the design itself.
The variations made possible in this way, using only one kind of textile
material, are of course further multiplied by incorporation of other materials in
diverse manner.
Especially have we seen the development of the discovery of synthetic "silks"
into important industries in consequence of their proved value in the above
respects. Cheniically very different from, but physically comparable with, the
real article, tlie various rayons hav e further established themselves by the greater
scope they offer for variety of finish, both on account of the inherently different
nature of their filaments, and their different response to dyeing and finishing
processes.
It is noteworthy that, in contrast with the active pursuit of modifications m
these synthetic materials with a v iew to achieving new textile effects, relatively
little has been done in this way with natural textile fibres.
Cotton has shown some atlaptability in yielding commercially important
modifications for example by mercerisation and acetylation. but wool and allied
fibres have remained significantly without exploitation in chemical directions.
One may suggest two reasons for this. First, wool has a great tradition behind
it. The industrial interests have been concerned to maintain its unique char-
acter and properties, so long regarded as being ideal for clothing material, and
naturally have not lookeil with favour on any form of "mutilation" deliberately
to achieve something different. This standpoint of letting well alone, the fear of
anything happening to sjioil its inherent properties, has served good purpose in
preserving an unrivalled standard of excellence in wool fabrics, so that the term
"all wool" carries an implication of quality hardly shared by other textiles.
Also it might with some reason be urged that such wide differences in type as
are available in natural wools, are amply sufficient to give variety of manufactured
product, and that to exploit wool which had artificially imposed characters would
entail a reflection upon the real article, as "artificial silk" in the early days was
held to have caused an adverse reflection upon real silk.
The rayons of to-day, however, suffer no "inferiority complex" of this sort,
and no tradition binds them. Something "different" is hailed, other things being
equal, as an advantage over other types rather than a retrogression, and there
can be little doubt that the field of synthetic textiles is still largely unexplored,
and that newer materials will appear on the scene and establish a place in the
struggle for fabric nov elty.
Secondly, wool, though in its natural state highly durable and capable of
providing fabric of lasting wear, is in consequence both of its complex chemical
constitution and its organised histological structure, peculiarly susceptible to
certain disintegrating influences.
To make a very simple contrast, the corroded surface of a copper wire may be
repeatedly removed, leaving a thinner but sound core beneath. Can we expect
any parallel with wool fibre, with its discrete cell structures of outer cuticle
plates enclosing longitudinally disposed spindle-shaped cortical cells, when the
Some New Possibilities in Fancy Colour and Weave EffectsKing Pi 85
loosening of these structural units from each otlier. to say nothing of attack upon
the molecular structure of the units themselv es. could produce a weakening and
disruptive effect out of all proportion to any obvious change in physical appear-
ance.
Wool, therefore, presents peculiar obstacles against attempts to modif\- it
into something of comparable yet distinctiv e utility. Nevertheless, in the writer's
view, the rapid strides made of late towards elucidating its chemical constitution
bring the day of improving wool for specific purposes and novelty effects measur-
ably nearer. Success in this direction would mean no encroachment on the field
at present held by wool. Rather would it expand its scope, not only by offering
"new" textile materials for use in conjunction with other fil^res, but also by
extending the range of "all wool" fabrics.
"Unshrinkable" Wool Yarn
It is the writer's hope that such a prospect may be opened up by the new-
unshrinkable treatment which has already receiv ed reference, in the Press by the
Wool Industries Research Association, and in a recent publication (A. T. King
"Some Observations regarding Unshrinkable Finish," / . S^c. Chem. Ind., LIII
(1934), P- 339)- Devised in the first place to remove certain disabilities in the
present chlorination process for rendering hosiery- unshrinkable in washingit
may be noted that this involves the elimination of perhaps the most outstanding
characteristic, i.e. the milling property of ordinary woolsubsequent develop-
ments suggest that it may provide a "new" fibre and yam for textile novelty
purposes.
The details of the actual process are not at present disclosable, but the main
feature from the present standpoint is that uniform treatment can be given in
loose wool or sliver form, the subsequent drawing and spinning further ensuring,
in addition to genuine unshrinkability, the highest degree of levelness to dyeing.
Incidentally the treated wool can be spun with at least equal facility-. In fact
definitely less twist is needed for a given count of equal strength as spun than is
required with the untreated wool; and, conversely, greater nominal strength is
obtained for yam of the same twist and count. Also, it can be readily blended,
roved, or two-folded with untreated wool, cotton, etc. for fancy yam production.
Especially it would seem that unshrinkable yam in bulk for warp and weft
should offer a field in nov elty fabrics, which though not new in suggestion so far
as chlorinated yam is concerned, has not hitherto been exploited as is now
practicable with the new unshrinkable spun yam.
Weave Effects
The object of this preliminarv- inquiry- has been to utilise the unshrinkable
property of the yams to produce "blister" effects as a result of the shrinking of
the ordinarv' yam in scouring.
The figured patterns designed to this end by the v\Titer's colleague, Mr. G.
Priestley, have been produced mainly by means of double reversible fabrics, the
warping being arranged one thread treated and one thread ordinarv'. with wefting
also in the same order.
The weaves for these have been so arranged that a surface pattern of treated
warp and weft, working in 22 hopsack, is produced, whilst behind this a corre-
sponding detail is effected by crossing ordinary- warp and weft.
The results of this method of structure clearly show the difference in the
shrinking properties of the tr\vo tv^^es of yams, for whereas the ordinarv* portions
shrink during finishing in the usual way. the surfaces formed of treated yam
stand out owing to the "bunching" effect resulting from their inabilitv' to shrink,
thereby giving an entirely new character to the surface of the fabric.
It may be further remarked that though different tensioning of ordinary yam
could give rise to somewhat similar effects, such fabric would continue to shrink
with scouring, whereas the opposing effects of the treated and untreated yams
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Proceedings
Some Xeii' Possibilities in Fancy Colour and Weave Effectsh'mg PI 87
HI 88 Proceedings
give a balanced structure whicli offers a resistance to further shrinkage on re-
scouring.
A typical e.xample is shown in the photograph (three-quarter life size) of
patterns before and after scouring, (See Plate I.)
Further samples illustrating this effect in various designs are also on view.
Colour Contrasts with Single Bath Dyeings
The field of ]K)ssible novelty effects is further widened by utilising the different
dyeing affinity exhibited by the treated yarns towards various dyesfuffs. Pre-
liminary experiments in collaboration with I\Tr. P. E. King show variations in
result from a negligible tlifferencc in affinity with certain dyestufls to very pro-
nounced differences in shade between the tvvo constituent yarns, especially with
the Neolan colours.
The degrees of contrast obtainable are illustrated by Plate II which shows
typical effects with the appropriate selection of dyestuffs, though these naturally
do not convey the colour effects as shown by the actual dyeings on view.
A variety of two-colour effects can also be secured by using contrasting and
lev-el dyes in conjunction. Also, enhanced contrasts can be readily obtained by
after-d\eing at lower temperatures, when the treated yarn absorbs the second
colour almost exclusively and with reasonable fastness to washing.
The controlled application of dyes in this way is being further explored, but
the examples shown will indicate the varied possibilities in this direction.
One point in particular may be worth noting, regarding pieces with a coloured
striping thread, stored in the grey awaiting piece dyeing to the required colour.
The choice of colours for the stripe thread, if made of the treated yarn, could with
considerable latitude be left until the piece itself is dyed, instead of, as at present,
having to be determined before weaving.