RIDGE POLE CAMP HINGED

SLOT KITCHEN SIDE

CABINET BOARDS
DRAIN
WATER CAN SLOT
AXLE
PLYWOOD DECK
CROSSBAR
INNER STRINGER
TAIL
GATE DECK SUPPORT

FRONT GATE

AXLE
CHASSIS
SIDE FRONT
ASSEMBLY
FRAME GATE
RADIUS
ROD SUPPORT

OUTER
STRINGER
TONGUE
END PLATE
OUTRIGGER
AND SLIDE LEVELLING
JACK

58 Science a n d M e c h a n i c s
 Mobile camping platform provides plenty of
high-and-dry cooking and sleeping area for
a family of six on a low-cost camping vacation
By LYLE GILLIOM Craft Print Project No. 340

T ENT-TRAILER is designed as the result of

years of family camping experience to
haul and store all of your camping gear,
while you and your family ride comfortably
without luggage piled in the car. It has, more-
over several surprise extras.
First of all, the sides let down, providing a
platform on which your umbrella tent is
mounted ready to be raised in minutes for
off-the-ground tenting.
Cots, air mattresses, and even a full-size
bed can be carried fully made up and ready
to sleep in. Camp kitchen cabinet at the rear
has an icebox, stove drawer, and water sup-
ply ready for use at any time with or without
unfolding the trailer.
Trailer Chassis Kit, consisting of specially
designed brackets into which you insert weld-
ed steel tubing or standard 2-in. black iron
pipe, was used to build the chassis for the
original model. The kit (See Materials List)
includes wheels, tires, stub axles complete
with rubber torsion springs, coupler, and
U-bolts. Or, if you wish, you can adapt the
Tent-Trailer bed (Fig. 2) to any available
½-ton chassis and axle assembly.
Although standard iron pipe is more than
adequate for the purpose, we used welded

AUGUST, 1962 59
 CHASSIS SIDE STUB
FRAME AXLE
1"PIPE
SPRING
TONGUE
SOCKET
AXLE
CROSSBAR
TONGUE
Tubular trailer chassis is assembled by joining pipe or
tubing with channel-iron fittings supplied in trailer
chassis kit. U-bolts are removed after joints are
welded.
steel tubing because it weighs only half as
much and is easier to cut, drill, and handle.
Usually, however, the tubing must be ordered
from steel suppliers near large cities and will
be somewhat more expensive.
Begin assembly by joining the side frames
and the front and rear crossmembers to the
corner sockets, temporarily securing the parts
with U-bolts (Fig. 4). As a separate assem-
bly, install the stub axles (Fig. 4) in 1-in. pipe
and insert the ends of the crossbar in the up-
per spring arm socket.
Position this crossbar between the side
frames so its center is 54 in. from the rear
of the chassis. Secure the subassembly with
U-bolts, being sure the axle pipe ends fit
tightly at the shoulders of the stub axles.
Next center the tongue and tongue socket
on the axle crossbar (Fig. 4) and place the
crosstie fitting (Fig. 3C) between the tongue
and the front crossbar.
Make the radius rods by drilling 3/8-in.
With a Tent-Trailer, you can even have the luxury of
one of Mom's meals while you're still on your way
to the camp grounds. Just pull well off the road,
open the cooking cabinet (A), and let down the table
leaf—nothing to untie or fold up.
When you reach your camping site, put down the
screw jacks, remove the tarp, and lay the sideboards
on the extended outriggers (B). Next crawl in
through the tent opening, set up the poles, arrange
your sleeping gear, and you're ready to go fishing
while Mom (working again?) puts her finishing touch-
es on the camp.
60
holes in the flattened ends of ¾-in. pipe
(Fig. 3). Attach the brackets to the opposite
ends and drill the assembly for 3/16-in. stove
bolts. Position the radius rod brackets on the
side frames (Fig. 3B) and then bolt the flat-
tened ends to the lower spring arm with 3/8-in.
machine bolts.
Ready for Welding. After bolting the trail-
er hitch to the tongue, the trailer chassis is
ready to be towed to a shop for welding
where the entire chassis can be welded in less
than 1 hour. When finished, the U-bolts are
no longer needed and should be removed be-
fore painting the chassis with a rust-resisting
enamel.
Saw four trailer bed stringers (Fig. 2) to
length, then lay out and cut outrigger
notches (Fig. 5). Note that the outer string-
ers are the same length as the steel chassis
and are ripped to 3¼ in. The inner stringers
fit between the front and rear crossbars and
are slotted 2 5/8-in. deep to clear the axle
crossbar (Fig. 3).
Doublers (Fig. 5) which form the slots for
the outrigger slides are ripped from 1x4 stock
and are attached to the inner stringers with
#8 x 1½-in. fh screws. Position the stringers
(Figs. 2 and 3) flush with the top of the
chassis frame and attach with five carriage
bolts through each frame side. Before tight-
ening these bolts, notch the stringers and at-
tach the fore deck supports (Fig. 3) to keep
the stringers square against the pipe side
frame.
The outer stringers are reinforced and sup-
port provided for the outriggers by two
lengths of steel channel (Figs. 2 and 5). First
SCIENCE and MECHANICS
 SIDE MEMBER TONGUE
SIDE MEMBER WELD
WELD TONGUE
END CROSSMEMBER
MITER & WELD
WELD TYPICAL TRIM
STEEL
4 JOINTS TYPICAL 2 JOINT5 FILLETS
A .LTERNATE WELDED CHASSIS FRAME FRONT CROSSMEMBER AXLE CR0SSMEMBER

attach the channel to the underside of the
stringers with round head screws, then drill
two 17/64-in. holes through the channel and
stringers at each outrigger slot as in Fig. 5
for carriage bolts to be installed later.
Next rip the end plates (Fig. 2) and attach
them to the chassis by driving one self-tap-
ping screw into a 13/64-in. hole drilled at each
corner socket and ¼ x 4-in. carriage bolts
through the front and rear crossbars. The
outer stringers can now be fitted between
the end plates and are secured with lag
screws and washers at each corner.
The V-shaped fore deck support (Fig. 2) is
bent from angle iron. Cut off 1 in. of the ver-
tical flange at each end where it meets the
notches in the end plate and drill for #12
x 1-in. rh screws. Drill a 5/16-in. hole at the
bend and a matching hole through the tongue,
then bolt the support to the tongue with 2-in.-
long spacers cut from ¾-in. pipe.
The Tent Deck is made from three 4x6-ft.
sheets of ½-in. fir EXT plywood (Fig. 3).
Begin by attaching the front and center deck
panels to the end-plates, stringers, and deck
supports with #8 x 1¼-in. fh screws. The rear
piece is cut in two and separated to form a
drain slot between the tent and the cabinet.

MATERIALS LIST—TENT-TRAILER
Amt. Req. Size and Description Use AmtReq. Size and Description Use
CHASSIS 6 ¼x ¾" stove bolts and nuts
1 trailer chassis kit # 7 6 - T ($92.50) running gear 32 3/16x 1" fh stove bolts and nuts
1 tail light and turn signal kit ($11) lights 4 3/16x 1¼" fh stove bolts and nuts
(Above items available from Trailer Products Co., Kingsport, Tenn. 42 plated trim washers for #10 screws

Prices are F.O.B. Kingsport. Specify 6- or 12-volt lighting kit.) 42 oval head #10 x ¾" wood screws
1 1" iron pipe x 48 3/8" axle 1gr. #8x¾"fh woodscrews
2 ¾"iron pipe x 36" radiusrods 36 #8 x 1" fh woodscrews
*substitute 2 3/8" od x14-ga. radiusrods 1gr. #8x 1¼" fh woodscrews
welded steel tubing 48 #8x1½"fhwoodscrews
36 # 1 0 x 2" fh woodscrews
LUMBER 2 padlock type suitcase latches
1 1¼x 6" x 10' clear fir 8 ball cabinet catches
(finished 1 x 5 ½ " ) outrigger slides 1pr. 3/8" inset-type cabinet hinges icebox hinges
1 1¼x 6" x 6' clear fir 13 pr. 2½x 1.687" light butt hinges sideboard hinges
(finished 1 x 23/8") end plates 1 1" x 3 x 3½' glass fiber insulation
4 (2x4) x 12' c.g. (construction- stringers and out- 1 roll 5/16 x 3.8" wide sponge rubber
grade) fir rigger blocks weather strip icebox door
1 (2x4) x 4' c.g. fir outriggers 1 3/8"copper tubing x 16" long icebox drain and
1 (2x4) x 12' c.g. fir ridge pole spacers
2 (1x4) x 12' c.g. fir deck supports, 1 ¾"iron pipe x 10" long awning sockets and
doublet's spacer
2 (1x4)x10' pine cabinet framing 2 3/16x 1 x 4" strap iron awning sockets
1 (1x8) x 12' pine or fir stove drawer 26 sq. ft. 26-ga. galvanized steel icebox liner and
4 ½"x 4 x 6' ext fir plywood- deck, cabinet tray
1 ½"x 4 x 8' ext fir plywood front gate 2 ¾" iron pipe x 2 2 " threaded
2 ¾"x 4 x 8' ext fir plywood sideboards both ends leveling jacks
1 ¾x 14 x 72" ext fir plywood tailgate 2 ¾" pipe nipple, 2" long leveling jacks
1 ¼"x 4 x 6' ext fir plywood cabinet 8 ¾" pipe floor flanges leveling jacks
2 1½x 1½ x 1/8" x 9'-6" channel outrigger support 4 ¾" threaded rod, 1 3 ½ " long leveling jacks
channel 8 ¾" U.S.S. hex nuts
1 1¼x 1/8" x 6'6" steel angle front gate support 4 1/8 x 1" cotter keys
2 military type 5-gaI. water cans
FASTENINGS 4 3/16x1" eye bolts tailgate support
1 5/16x 5" machine bolts and nuts
16 ¼x 1" carriage bolts and nuts 3 ft. #3 wire link chain tailgate support
2 ¼x 4" carriage bolts and nuts 14 ¼" eye screws tarpaulin tiedown
26 ¼x 4½" carriage bolts and nuts 32 ft. lightweight sash cord tarpaulin tiedown
8 ¼x 2½" lag-screws 4 Dot fasteners tarpaulin
4 ¼x 2½" hanger bolts 8 3/8" brass grommets tarpaulin
6 ¼"wing nuts and spares 1 10 x 10' umbrella tent
48 ¼"washers 1 8 x 12' tarpaulin

AUGUST, 1962 61

Do not attach the rear part
of this panel as it is used as
the base of the cabinet (Fig.
3c). C-clamps will aid in
positioning and holding the
deck panels to the outer
stringers while being at-
tached. Drill ¼-in. holes in
the deck to match the 17/64-in.
holes in the stringers and in-
stall the ¼ x 4½-in. carriage1
bolts on each side of the out
rigger slots.
Make the eight outriggers
(Fig. 5) from 1¼ x 6-in.
clear fir and attach the sup-
port blocks. Make sure they
slide freely in the stringer
slots. To keep the outriggers
from extending while trav-
eling, drill 1-in. holes and
install a ball-spring catch in
the underside of each outrig-
ger at the inboard edge of
the rear channel. To keep the slides from be-
ing pulled completely out of the inner string-
ers, drive a screw ½ in. from the inner end
so it projects 1/8 in. as a stop.
Before installing the outriggers permanent-
ly, tip the trailer up on edge and paint the
underside with a primer such Firzite and
one coat of outdoor enamel.
This is a good time to install the four ¾-in.
pipe flanges for the screw jacks (Fig. 2) that
support and level the trailer while camped.
Bolt these to the underside of the deck, at
each corner with carriage bolts. Hacksaw
each of the pipes and the nipples to size, then
assemble and weld as in Fig. 9. When weld-
62
ing the nut to the pipe,
thread the nut on the shaft
and put the shaft in the pipe
to make sure they are
aligned. In use, the pipe end
of the jack is screwed hand-
tight into the flanges and the
threaded rod adjusted to
place the pad on the ground.
The lower nut is pinned or
welded to the threaded rod
so you can raise or lower
each corner of the tent plat-
form by turning the nut with
a wrench.
Camping Kitchen. The
food storage and cooking
cabinet (Figs. 2 and 6) is
erected on the rear deck
panel as in Fig 8, using ½-in.
plywood over framing rip-
ped from soft pine. After
cutting each part and check-
ing its fit, assemble the cab-
inet with glue, l¼-in. finish-
ing nails, and #8 fh screws
as indicated.
Make the ice box liner
(Fig. 10) from 26-gauge
galvanized metal with a
shallow tray of the same
material for the ice. Note
the ice tray is bolted to the
side of the liner with spa-
cers on the bolts to pro-
vide air circulation. Cut a
piece of corrugated metal
roofing to lay in the ice tray
to keep the ice from sliding
around or covering the drain
hole in the tray. At no time
is there any accumulation of
water in the box. The food
storage compartment is be-
low this tray on shelves sal-
vaged from junked refrig-
erators.
Before installing the liner,
calk all open joints inside
the cabinet and paint the
wood surfaces with two coats of aluminum
paint. Then line the sides and bottom with
1-in.-thick glass fiber insulation. Locate and
drill a hole for the drain in the deck and
position the ¼-in.-plywood bottom (Fig. 10).
Next slide the liner in place and attach it
with weatherstrip cement and fh screws driv-
en through the flanged edges. Insulate the
top of the liner before attaching the cabinet
top.
Check the inside dimensions of the installed
liner before sawing out the door frame (Fig.
10), because it must fit inside the liner with
1/16- to 1/8-in. clearance. Attach the frame to
the door front, allowing a 5/8-in. projection at
SCIENCE and MECHANICS
each edge. Paint the inside surfaces with two
coats of aluminum paint, then install the
hinges and cover the door with aluminum or
galvanized metal. If you prefer, a hardboard
such as Presdwood can be attached with
weatherstrip cement and screws. Cut the
covering the same size as the frame and notch
it around the cabinet hinges. A seal for the
door is provided with 5/16 x 3/8-in. sponge rub-
ber weatherstrip. This is available at auto
supply stores and comes with a self-adhesive
backing. Now hinge the door to the ice box
(Fig. 10) and attach a casement latch for
closing.
Install Cabinet. Except for the tailgate and
upper cabinet door, the cabinet is now com-
plete and can be installed (Fig. 2) by driving
woodscrews and bolts through the deck.
Hinges for the tailgate are recessed flush into
the tailgate and deck. Support the tailgate in
its down position with link chains connected
to eyebolts in the tailgate and cabinet. The
without guy ropes.
upper cabinet door is built-up of ¼-in. ply-
For travel and storage, the trailer is cov-
wood over a wooden frame, and two suitcase
ered with a standard 8xl2-ft. tarpaulin (Fig.
latches (Fig. 8) are installed to hold the tail-
6A) in which you have installed extra grom-
gate and cabinet door together for traveling.
mets so there is one every 15-18 in. Then
Water storage is provided with two 5-gal., lace the tarpaulin with rope through ¼-in.
military-type water cans which set on shelves eyescrews in the sideboards. We used Dot
(Fig. 6) at each side of the cabinet. Water fasteners at the back to fasten the tarp to the
cans of this type were standard equipment on top of the cabinet. The tarp then folds over
most army vehicles and have been readily in front and is pulled taut by the side lacing
available in surplus stores. Or you can pur- so no fasteners are required there.
chase containers of the same size and shape Next attach the combination tail light and
in polyethylene plastic at sporting goods turn signals to the tailgate, wrap the wires
stores. If you use metal cans, you can solder with plastic tape, and loop them through a
a brass spigot in one can to make water avail- hole in the end plate. Tack the wires in place
able without lifting the can from the shelf. along the stringers with insulated staples and
The ¾-in. fir plywood side boards and front then run them through the hollow tongue to
gate (Figs. 2 and 3) project 1 in. beyond each the coupler. At this point, the wires are again
end of the trailer bed and are hinged to the taped and are attached to a connector so the
deck with butt hinges. Recessing the hinges trailer lights can be plugged into the car's
flush with the surface is recommended but lighting system. The receptacle for the con-
not essential. Use two bolts (Fig. 3C) to at- nector plug is permanently attached to the
tach each hinge to the ½-in. plywood. Side- car near the hitch.
boards are held in the travel position with To ready your new camping rig for its
two ¼-in. hanger bolts and wingnuts at each maiden voyage, erect the tent at home and
edge of the front gate and two into wooden set up the sleeping gear you'll use. When
blocks on the cabinet (Fig. 3B). Drill match- you're ready to travel, slide the bed and other
ing holes in the side boards and elongate these gear clear of the sideboards, then collapse the
as necessary to fit over the hanger bolts. tent, leaving the poles inside.
A ridge pole (Fig. 3A) to support the tar- Next fold up the sideboards and spread
paulin while traveling and also act as a an old tarp on top of the tent to protect it so
support while camp is set up for the cook- you can stow the rest of your gear on top.
ing fly is made from a construction grade Avoid sharp corners next to the tent fabric.
2x4. In use, it rests in a slot cut in the back Pack the heaviest items forward to balance
of the cabinet (Figs. 2 and 3) and a shallow the cooking cabinet. A properly balanced
notch in the edge of the front gate. load will weigh 80 to 150 lbs. at the coupler.
Except for the painting, which you can do
now, the trailer is ready for installation of the
tent. Stretch out the tent with the opening to
the front, then attach the hemmed edge to the
deck and side boards with #10 x ¾-in. oval-
head screws and finishing washers every 15-18
in. Make up and install sockets (Fig. 9B) on
the front gate to hold the tent awning posts

AUGUST, 1962 63