Build A Shanty

http://www.blfga.org/blfga/shanty/shanti.html

"A Great Shanty Design"

The common fold down gable end design is (in my opinion) awkward, because when compacted
it is a rather large 4' x 8'.
This is a unique design, different than the common fold down gable ends. It compacts accordian
style so you end up with a smaller, easier to manage unit. Regardless of the length you want to
build it (whether it be 4', for a single person, or even 16', for a large group...The fold up
dimensions remain the same.) I have selected the lightest possible materials with out
comprimising strength. The optional floor is another great idea. For longer expeditions, it
provides a barrior between you and the ice, keeping the interior and your feet warmer. For shorter
stay's, leave it at home (the floor) making the unit "ultra light".

Diagrams are not to scale and all measurements are given in inches and feet (no silly
meters).
The total distance of a,b,c,d,(combined) in the above diagram has been calculated so a 14' wide
tarp doesn't have to be cut along the bottom , thus saving the reinforced factory edges. The
straight angle roof design as opposed to a half circle gable end makes it easier to apply the "slats"
that secure the tarp to the shanty. And for another "irrelevant" reason, it looks much more
proffessional. The interior has carefully planned space saving ideas for fold down shelves and
equipment storage compartments. All dimensions and diagrams are configured for a 6-1/2 ft. long
shanty, which is a roomy size for 2 people. You can change the length with a few re-calculations
to the floor if you like.
You'll have to decide which color of "poly tarp" to use. You can get them in opaque or translucent
colors. Some people prefer to have total darkness in their shanty so they can see the fish better.

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Personally, I like the light (it's warmer and I'm not fumbling for bait and tackle)...Your decision.
I'll start out with a materials list. Improvise on materials if you have something similar laying
around (you'll have to be the judge if it will work or not).

Materials List
2- 4x8 sheets 1/4" spruce or fir plywood (end gables)
1- 4x8 sheet 3/8" spruce or fir plywood (floor)
1- 4x8 sheet 1/2" spruce or fir plywood (doors & frames)
73' of spruce 2x2 (floor & gable framework)
22' of spruce 2x4 (floor & runners)
Poly Tarp 8'x14'
3 poles x 78" (telescopic poles, 1/2" copper pipe, 1x1 hardwood. Anything will work)
4 pr. butt hinges (For doors & lift-up floor).
3 barrell latches (door latches)
2 pcs. 1/8 or 1/4 plexiglass 8"x14" (windows)
Screws, nails etc (you can figure that one out)

Lay Out And Construction

Step 1. Cut out gable ends

Details
The whole idea for exact sizes will ensure
that you won't have to cut off the reinforced
factory edges of the poly tarp (along the
length of both bottom edges). Lay
everything out as shown on the 1/4"
plywood. Before you cut, take a tape
measure and double check to make sure that
all 4 edges add up to 14 feet! If you want
two doors (recommended), cut both ends
identical. Cut the door openings out 20 x 50
as shown.

Step 2.Attatch framework to gable ends

Details

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Cut and fit all the 2x2. Use a sliding t-bevel

or protractor to figure out the angles (see
below table). A power miter saw makes the
job a lot easier but a hand saw will work
fine to. Tight miters are best but not critical.
For maximum strength, fasten through the
1/4" plywood to the 2x2. not the other way
around! Use a 2x4 for the bottom plate.
(You'll see why later). After you have
everything fastened, cut a filler piece from
1/4" ply, 3-1/2"x20" and fasten it to the 2x4
across your door opening at the bottom.

Divide any angle in half using a compass

With a compass, spread to any desired
width, set the compass point on ref."A", and
mark references "B1 & B2". Next, set the
compass point on ref."B1", and mark
reference "C". Do the same for ref."B2".
Now take a ruler or straight edge and draw a
line (indicated in blue) from reference point
"A" to where reference points "C" intersects.
You now have the angle divided perfectly in
half.
With a protractor or sliding t-bevel,
determine the angle value.

Step 3. Cut out door/s and frame/s

Details

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First, cut out the overall size of 24"x52"

from the 1/2" plywood. Next, draw your
lines 1-1/2" from outside edges. Cut the
door from the frame (when you cut the door
out, be carefull not to go to far and cut the
frame)! Cut the window opening in the door
(sit on a pail and look at the door standing
upright to find the best window height).
Now lay the door and frame on the floor,
center everything, and attatch the hinges.
Lay the finished door/frame assembly on the
end gable, center, and fasten (Door should
open to the outside).

Step 4. Lay out and assemble floor

Details
The floor layout is pretty straight forward.
You can deviate here , but just make sure
that the overall length and width are as
indicated. The 2 pieces of 3/8" plywood
flooring are the same dimensions (48"x39"),
where as the 2x2 floor framing sections are
different, thus creating the overlap (detail.1).
The 2x2's are staggered to make nailing
easier. When the floor is finished, line up
and attatch the gable ends with hinges. Nail
a piece of scrap wood to span the top and
prevent it from moving (Fasten to the inside
of the shanty). Set the 3 spreader poles in
place. Drape the poly tarp over and center it.
Starting from the top begin stapling the tarp
to the shanty. Finally, cut several 1-1/2"
strips of 1/4" ply and "sandwich" the tarp
(use screws with finishing washers for
maximum strength). Trim away exess tarp
material with a utility knife.

Step 5. Attatch 2x4 runners

Details

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Cut and round off the end of each runner.

Fasten to shanty. Install a barrell latch to the
inside of each door and one to the outside of
one door (or substitute a hasp and lock).
Pre-drill holes in the plexiglass windows,
center and fasten to the inside of the door.
Drop down shelves can be added just above
the door on the inside.

I hope you can use these diagrams to build yourself a shanty.

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