AUGUST 2009

over years in the business of retailing jewellery

130

$

25

canadian jeweller magazine
www.canadianjeweller.com

e clusiv w Ex

ide t our gu Y shows uying fall b

Sho 2009 es Guid o all the

Made in Italy Silver Lining

Trends from the Vicenza show

Bridal to the bank
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40011270 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25

Why bridal stands a chance at staying strong in the market

Eastern Influence
A look at the Japanese jewellery market

Refined and Reformed
The business climate at JCK Las Vegas

Pat Thompson from St. John’s Diamond Design

A Cut Above

Is silver is set to make a fine comeback?

PLUS:

ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 113.

Measurements

Fluorescence

Polish

Shape

Depth

Symmetry

RappaporT

Colour

Certificate
GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA HW HW HW HW HW HW HW HW HW HW HW HW

Stock #

Clarity

Weight

Table

696A+3 802B+5 802B+4 802A+1 802 802A+6 332+1 1014B+3 10F+1 10FB+1 37+2 70+1 335C+1 213E+1 920+1 2144+1 721E+1 2118+1 696E+0 725A+12

1.51 1.24 1.22 1.46 1.44 0.88 1.10 1.12 3.04 3.02 2.00 1.75 0.92 1.01 3.43 1.28 1.06 1.46 1.50 1.07

RADIANT CUSHION CUSHION RADIANT RADIANT RADIANT RBC OVAL RBC RBC RBC RBC RBC RBC OVAL PEAR ASSCHER EMERALD PRINCESS PRINCESS

FIY FIY FIY FLY FLY FLY

VVS1 VS1 VS1 VS1 VVS1 VS2

6.24x5.76x4.25 6.98x6.34x3.65 6.67x5.63x4.02 6.77x6.42x4.01 6.77x6.46x3.99 5.74x5.16x3.31 6.67x6.69x4.02 6.70x5.11x4.01 9.22x9.27x5.81 9.26x9.33x5.74 8.11x8.06x4.95 7.73x7.78x4.73 6.21x6.25x3.9 6.41x6.44x3.99 7.84x12.08x5.32 8.81x6.10x4.0 5.72x5.71x3.88 8.32x5.28x3.69 6.17x6.19x4.67 5.73x5.80x3.91

73.8 57.6 71.4 62.5 61.8 64.1 60.2 78.5 62.9 61.8 61.3 61.0 62.8 62.1 67.8 65.8 67.9 69.8 75.6 68.1

64.0 60.0 58.0 62.0 63.0 78.0 60.0 54.0 55.8 54.9 60.1 56.2 55.4 56.3 58.5 54.0 65.3 68.0 75.6 75.1

G VG EX VG G G VG VG EX EX VG EX VG VG VG VG EX VG VG VG

G G G G G G

MED BLUE NONE FAINT
STRONG BLUE

PLS CALL PLS CALL PLS CALL PLS CALL PLS CALL PLS CALL PLS CALL PLS CALL

NONE MED BLUE

Fancy Brown VS2

VG STRONG GREEN G VG G VG G VG G VG VG VG VG G G MED BLUE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE NONE

FIY F F H F D F D D G D F E

VS1 SI2 SI2 VS2 SI2 INF I1 SI2 VVS1 VS2 INF VVS2 VVS2

-28% -28% -35% -30% -35% -30% -40% -25% -30% -20% -30% -30%

For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 113.

Canada’s REAL Diamond House. Our Diamonds MAKE you want to come back.

To add your name to our mailing list please forward your request to sales@sapirdiamonds.com

Radiant Stone 5.01 ct SI1, I, VG

55 Queen St. E. Suite 501, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6 Phone: 416-863-6036/7 Toll Free: 1-866-387-1759 Fax: 416-863-0671 www.SapirDiamonds.com marks@sapirdiamonds.com keith@sapirdiamonds.com

Round Stone 5.05 ct SI1, D, VG

Make
G VG VG VG G G VG VG EX VG G VG VG EX VG VG VG VG VG G

COVERAGE YO U C A N C O U N T O N . PEOPLE YO U C A N C O U N T O N .
“I insure with Jewelers Mutual to protect what I love. Jewelers Mutual insures only jewellery and jewellery businesses, so they understand my insurance needs better than anyone. My dad started this business more than 50 years ago and always said that being a jeweller is a privilege because we are in the business of helping people celebrate their special occasions. Jewelers Mutual is there to help make sure we continue to do just that.”
— Frank Damiani Damiani Jewellers, Ltd. Woodbridge, Ontario

Jewelers Mutual is proud to pay Jewellers Vigilance Canada membership fees for insureds in Canada.

R E TA I L E R S M A N U FA C T U R E R S WHOLESALERS C U S TO M D E S I G N E R S R E PA I R B U S I N E S S E S
Frank Damiani

APPRAISERS

N W O IN Q U EC ÉB

I F YO U C H I P T H E C U S TO M E R ’ S D I A M O N D … W I L L YO U B E I N S U R E D ?
If you chip a customer’s diamond while setting it into a new mounting… will you be insured? Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company now offers “work or operations” coverage as an addition to their Jewelers Block policy in Canada, so your customers’ jewellery is protected if damage occurs while you or one of your employees works on the piece.

Coverage highlights
• Covers damage that occurs while you or your employees are repairing, adjusting, constructing, manufacturing, processing, servicing, testing, or cleaning your customer’s jewellery at your JM-insured business in Canada. • Applies to damage by an independent bench jeweller whom you hire to work at your insured premises for your retail customers’ property. This coverage does not protect your store’s merchandise or property that you are working on for others in the jewellery trade. For more information or for a free, no-obligation quote, contact Jewelers Mutual.
These descriptions are a brief summary of coverage. This language is not part of the insurance policy and is not a substitute for the actual policy language.

800-558-6411 • www.jewelersmutual.com YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.com
Jewelers Mutual is proud to pay Jewellers Vigilance Canada membership fees for insureds in Canada.

E X C L U S I V E LY E N D O R S E D B Y

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 113

Easy to source Same Product • Same Area
Diamonds, Pearls, Gemstones and Technology & Packaging
AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong
21-25 September 2009
UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : (852) 2516 1677 / 2585 6179 Fax : (852) 3749 7319 Email : salesjwf@cmpasia.com

Fine Finished Jewellery
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre
23-27 September 2009

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 113.

Stylish Solutions

Let us help you say yes. Whether it’s with our high quality findings, diamonds, gemstones, or our vast inventory of stylish mountings and finished jewellery, we give you more ways to say yes to your customers. Stuller. The beauty of it all.™

www.stuller.com Canadian contact: 866 – 815 – 5511 Product shown is from the Sea Sprite Collection.

For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 113.

EstablishEd 1879 august 2009 • vol. 130, no. 4
Judy Richards Guest Editor Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Paul aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com Carol besler Editorial Consultant lauren brunetti Editorial Intern | intern@rivegauchemedia.com scott Jordan Art Director | design@rivegauchemedia.com leslie Ross Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com Jordan Martinez Production Manager | production@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com

CONtRibUtORs Gordon Feller, Robin Gambhir, Howard Grosfield,
Sarah B. Hood, Amber Klaehn, Greg Locke, Daniel Marquez, Duncan Parker, Bonnie Siegler.

salEs
lucy holden InteRnAtIonAL SALeS MAnAGeR/MARKetPLAce 203-7900 ext. 6117 email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
tel. (416)

Jeff Yamaguchi

ADVeRtISInG SALeS 203-7900 ext. 6122 email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com
tel. (416)

deborah brewster

cIRcuLAtIon MAnAGeR 203-7900 ext. 6118 fax (416) 703-6392 email deborah@rivegauchemedia.com
tel. (416)

head Office

60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106 toronto, ontario, M4W 3B8 tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 555 chabanel Street West, Suite 1507 Montreal, Quebec, H2n 2J2 tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

Montreal Office

subscription Rates
canada — one year, $35; two years, $45; three years $55. united States — one year, uS$44. Foreign — one year uS$56 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% P.S.t. for newfoundland, new Brunswick and nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $5; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 per subscription per year (canada only).

Change of address
email: deborah@rivegauchemedia.com telephone: (416) 203-7900 ext 6109 fax: (416) 703-6392 or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller magazine, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, toronto, on canada M4W 3B8 Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc. canada Post canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement no. 40011270. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. no portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, toronto, on canada M4W 3B8.

Official magazine of the JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 113

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For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 113

Contents
August

table of

Features
46 52 56 62 66 70 74
A Cut Above A one-on-one with Pat Thompson from St. John’s Diamond Design. Refined and Reformed The industry is headed in new directions if JCK Las Vegas was any indication. Silver Lining A survey of the silver jewellery industry. Wrist Worthy Looking at the latest fall watches consumers will look for. Bridal to the Bank Wedding jewellery might be the only growing segment in a slow market. Responsible Retailing An update on the Responsible Jewellery Council. Determined to Dominate Small businesses adapt to stay afloat during tough times.

80

80 86 92 98 100

Made in Italy Trends from the Vicenza show. Tech Talk Part 1 of our look at the importance of technology in the retail environment. Eastern Influence A look at the Japanese jewellery market. Radiant Ruby Are rubies the new “it” gem? Industry Buzz Snapshots of JCK and more.

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Advertising copyright © 2009 A’LOR International LTD. CHARRIOL® is a registered trademark of the Philippe Charriol Group.

F or

more inFormation about

Bella OrO Fine Jewelry | 604.688.3 111

or Call

C harriol

in

C anada

800.872.0172 | Charriol u s a . C o m

For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 113

please ContaCt

Contents
August

table of

84

Departments
14 16 22 26 31 32 34 38 42 76
Letter from the Guest Editor Product Showcase Who’s News Saying goodbye to Varuj Arkarakas; Maria Sharapova teams up with Tiffany. For The Record JVC Golf Tournament; 2009 Saul Bell Design Award Winners; Birks Celebrates Canadian Olympics. Stock Index

84 113 114 118 122

Star Watch Coast-to-Coast Fax Back Showcase Marketplace Last Word

Mining News All the happenings in the mining sector. Face Value The importance of being ethical in questionable times. Market Watch A glance at where bridal is booming. Company Profile JoMark. Designer Profile Gil Bishouri from Gee N’Gee.

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ORDER ONLINE 24 HOURS A DAY THRU OUR

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IMPROVED
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cgm@cgmfindings.com

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For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 115

CHECK ONLINE for NEW ARRIVALS and “SPECIALS OF THE MONTH”

letterfromguesteditor

Upward and Onward
I don’t know about the rest of you, but December to April were real tough months for me in the jewellery business here in Ottawa. We were down 27% for those 5 months. I always believed Ottawa was recession-proof, as it has always held true in the past, but this time was di erent. Well, misery likes company, so I got on the phone to see how my peers were doing. In general, the small towns seemed to be doing well, but I found solace in the big cities who were su ering just like me! And then there was Pat ompson of Diamond Design in St. John’s. Pat and I had always kept in touch a er a buying trip to Italy. We liked to share our successful marketing ideas over the years. I shared my successes with “Girls Night Out” and Pat introduced me to his successful “Gemstone Round Table Evenings.” Pat wasn’t having a recession; Pat was upbeat and positive. ings were great in Newfoundland! Why was I surprised? Knowing Pat for over ten years, I have watched him grow his business in the most calm, nurturing and methodical way, with a little ‘New e’ humour thrown in for good measure. Why should something like a little recession in a province with the highest rate of unemployment slow him down? So when I was asked to be the Guest Editor for this issue of Canadian Jeweller and choose the next cover story, I knew it had to be Pat ompson. He’s full of great marketing ideas, has a wonderfully positive attitude, knows how to romance his clients and is a leader in our industry. If you don’t already know him, here’s your chance. Pat ompson is the quintessential jeweller.

Judy Richards
Judy Richards Guest Editor President, Davidson’s Jewellers, Ottawa, Ontario

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pour homme
you’ve earned it
We proudly introduce Pour Homme, our new Mens Line - a collection of over 45 unique styles. Each design is inspired by the virtues of strength, boldness, distinction, and success, while remaining understated and contemporary. men’s The men collection is available in 14K or 19K, white and yellow gold. Some of these new styles feature two tone white and 19k rose gold in a copper finish, creating a very distinct effect. Our jewellery is hand crafted with the upmost regard to quality. As well, our diamonds are from only the best in colour, cut and selected f clarity. For more than three decades we have striven to create unique pieces of unparalleled craftsmanship. Now available for men. Please call to order our new catalogue.

GEE‘N GEE
FINE DIAMOND JEWELLERY

geengee.com

toll free: 1.800.663.0177
400 - 736 Granville Street Vancouver, B.C., V6Z1G3 Telephone: 604.684.1131 dhiren@geengee.com

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 113

andrewrobertsdesign.com

productshowcase

Pour Homme
The new men’s jewellery line from Gee N’ Gee Importers Ltd. is a collection of over 45 unique styles. Each design features bold lines inspired by the virtues of strength, distinction and success. Some of these new styles feature two-tone white and 19K rose gold in a copper finish, creating a very distinct effect. This contemporary men’s line is hand crafted with the upmost regard for quality. For more information, write 110 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Form Meets Function
At Muehle Glashuette, tradition and precision have been at the heart of the company since 1869. The philosophy is simple: form follows function. Their watches are distinctive, yet the designs are clean; above all else, they are precision instruments that measure time. The company’s strength and tradition lie in building timepieces that are reliable, functional and stylish. For more information, write 111 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

CGM’s Selection For 25 years, CGM has served the industry with a large selection of findings in 10k, 14k, 18k, 22k, sterling silver and gold, filled at excellent prices without compromising quality. CGM has recently added precious and semi-precious beads to complement the findings line. CGM is known for its cornerstones of service, slection and savings. For more information, write 112 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Siffari Collection Shines
This ring, pendant and earring set are part of Siffari’s new Starburst Quartz Collection. Each piece features a 12mm round Starburst stone available in green, yellow and rose de france colours. All pieces are available in 10k, 14k or 18k white, yellow or two-tone gold. For more information, write 113 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

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There is nothing more valuable than your peace of mind.
Independent gem testing and jewelry appraisal laboratory. Diamond lasering for positive identification. Firetrace light trace analysis. Diamond grading reports. 25 years of experience. GIA graduate gemologists.

usa - dallas
5525 N MacArthur Blvd., Suite 695 Irving, Texas 75038 Tel: 972 580 7771 or 1 888 580 7771 Fax: 972 580 7767

canada - toronto
27 Queen Street E., Suite 406 Toronto, Ontario m5c 2m6 Tel: 416 868 6656 or 1 877 868 6656 Fax: 416 868 6558

india - mumbai / chennai
6A, Unity House, Above SBI Opera House, Mumbai 400 004 Tel: +91 22 236 736 12

www.gslaboratories.com iso 9001 registered
For details, write #114 on Free Info Page, page 113

productshowcase

JSN Diamonds Sparkle JSN is one of Canada’s leading jewellery manufacturers with an arsenal of five brands that range from entry-level product to a fully-certified premium Canadian diamond line. With offices in Canada, the United Kingdom and the United States, along with a plant in Bangkok, Thailand, JNS has achieved a high level of recognition on the international stage. For more information, write 115 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Individual Expression For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more information, write 116 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Selling with Security Keep your profits from walking out the door! Jewelers Mutual’s online security course, Selling with Security, demonstrates how retail store associates can incorporate three basic security habits into their selling techniques; key habits worth learning. The course will cover the topics: “Meet and Greet;” “One on One;” and “Turn the Key” — all designed to help reduce retail losses at your store. Register online with Jewelers Mutual or call 800-558-6411. For more information, write 117 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

The Pandora Line Danish designed Pandora offers a universe of jewellery including charm bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings in 14K gold, sterling silver and some with semi-precious or precious gems. Each piece is beautifully handcrafted and finished, and many can be personalized to reflect one’s own personal style. For more information, write 118 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

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The heart & soul of wedding bands

1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4 Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: atlanticeng@bellnet.ca

For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 113

Brilliant Bracelet CHARRIOL, the international leading brand for fine jewellery and watches, is excited to introduce gemstones and yellow PVD celtic cable to the popular cable CLASSIQUE Collection. The gems are available in three different colors: smoky quartz, lemon quartz and yellow citrine, and compliment the classic cable motif. This look allows the CHARRIOL classic cable designs to be worn as an everyday statement pieces. For more information, write 120 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Bold Bangles Be sure to inquire about Nova’s new line of stunning bangles. Available in diamonds, or a variety of coloured stones and precision set in 18k white, yellow or rose gold, these immensely detailed, summer-themed wristlets are made to impress by being fashionsavvy, modern and attentive to detail. For more information, write 121 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Nature’s Own Juxtaposition of the exotic Bird of Paradise floral motif contrasted with the strong volume of black Onyx and Sterling Silver, the Layla Collection from Stuller provides exotic beauty at accessible price points. Available from the prime manufacturer as a ring, pendant, cuff bracelet or earrings, this collection compliments any wardrobe selection. For more information, write 122 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Canadian Diamonds Diarough Canada supplies Canadian MCP, Canadamark and nonCanadian diamonds. Diarough is a sightholder and select diamantaire with offices and factories worldwide. As part of a group of companies under Diarough, Mahendra Brothers and Uni-Design, it supplies from rough to jewellery. Online inventory is available on Rap-Net and IDEX or at www.diaroughcanada.com. For more information, write 123 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

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productshowcase

Go for Gold JOMARK has been one of Canada’s premier distributor of European gold jewellery since 1989. Offering an extensive range of gold jewellery, JOMARK’s high standards and passion guarantees high-quality luxury jewellery delivered across Canada. All gold is imported from the world’s fashion capital, Italy. Acquire luxury jewellery from the unsurpassed gold distributor JOMARK. For more information, write 124 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council From being one of the world’s largest manufacturers of diamonds to becoming the leading international gems and jewellery hub, India’s gems and jewellery sector is set on growth trajectory. Subsequently, the industry’s growth over the years can be attributed primarily to the continuous efforts put in by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). Set up in 1966, the GJEPC has played a significant role in the evolution of the Indian gem and jewellery industry to its present stature. For more information, write 125 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Firetrace GS Laboratories introduces Firetrace, which now makes it possible for clients to accurately measure the light performance of their diamonds. This technology analyzes the light-reflecting properties of a diamond and allows you to determine how much life is in your stones — one more way that GS Laboratories can help you ensure your diamonds stand out in a crowd. For more information, write 126 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

Illustrious Necklace Necklace in white gold set with Murion Quartz, Smoky Quartz, Black Quartz and Diamonds. The Pietra line from Viana was created based on the concept of shape deconstruction, ending in an outline of different sizes and positions. Shapes from the beginning of civilization were used as reference for the development of this concept. The necklace explores the natural beauty of the gemstones, used in large dimensions, and balances the modern and rustic. The sober shades of Murion Quartz and Smoky Quartz, allied with Black Quartz, create a sophisticated and versatile combination. For more information, write 125 on the Free Info Card on page 113.
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who’snews

Find out who is making headlines in the jewellery industry.
Tiffany for Maria Sharapova
Tiffany&Co. has announced a new celebrity jewellery collection with 21-year-old tennis player, Maria Sharapova. e two-year deal with the Russian athlete outlines Sharapova agreeing to wear a pair of earrings during eight Grand Slam tournaments, immediately a erwards they will be available in Ti any stores worldwide for purchase. “Maria Sharapova is a longtime friend of Ti any and a champion on and o the court,” said Linda Buckley, Vice President of worldwide public relations for the brand. “It gives us great pleasure to accent her on-court look with earrings that epitomize both the quality of her championship play and Ti any’s reputation for design excellence.” Sharapova said she is very excited to be partnered with Ti any&Co, since it is her favorite jeweler. “Elsa Peretti’s earrings feel as beautiful as they look and I am thrilled to wear them at the French Open.”

Calnon, designer Director of the World Gold Council, John Marcia Gay Harden with U.S. Managing of World Gold Council. and Duvall O’Steen, marketing director

Ariane Zurcher

Gold Jewellery For a Good Cause
Twelve Hollywood celebrities are designing a piece of gold jewellery for the Leaves of Change project, which helps to raise money and awareness for numerous charities, all of which are hand-picked by each celebrity. Inspired by a leaf motif, each piece of jewellery will help various causes, such as child health, healthy water supply and eradicating hunger. Designed by the celebrities, the pieces will then be cra ed by renowned ne jewellery designers, who have agreed to generously fund the manufacturing. e jewellery will be auctioned and the money will be donated to the speci c charity of the celebrity’s choice. Amongst the celebrities are Christina Applegate, Whoopi Goldberg, Marcia Gay Harden, Samantha Harris, Debra Messing, Chris Noth, Lena Olin, Rachael Ray, Susan Sarandon, Brooke Shields, Eric McCormack and Pauletta and Denzel Washington.

Cameco Announces Changes
CEO of De Beers Canada, Jim Gowans, has been elected as a Director of Cameco Corporation, the world’s biggest uranium miner. Gowans and another new director, Donald Deranger, will be taking over for Harry Cook and John Auston, who have both retired from their positions on the board. Gowans is currently on the board of DeBeers Canada as the chair of the Mining Association of Canada and President of the Canadian Institute of Mining, Metallurgy and Petroleum. Also, Deranger is currently the Athabasca vice-chief of the Prince Albert Grand Council and an adviser to the Athabasca Basin Development Corporation.

Maria Sharapova

Obama Jewellery Obama campaign jewellery, designed by Heide Schmaltz Lasher, has been selected to be on display at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C and it will also be available to purchase. e “Obama Hope” pin, designed by Lasher, consists of a very unique rhinestone that happened to be introduced at last summer’s Democratic National Convention in Denver. e rhinestone pin was approved for sale by the “Obama for America” campaign last summer.

Jim Gowans

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For details, write #128 on Free Info Page, page 113

who’snews
Varuj Arkarakas

Fairwell to a Friend
Varuj Arkarakas, Executive Vice-President and General Manager of Master Design, a company he founded 25 years ago, passed away at the age of 50 on June 29, a er a short illness. He is survived by his wife, Hera, sons Eren and Evan, and daughterin-law Araz. His long-time friend Je Morrison of 925 Solutions remembers him here. When I was asked to write a testimonial for Varuj Arkarakas, I thought about what direction I would take in order to pro le his life. Instead of focusing on his many business accomplishments over the last 29 years, I wanted to spend the time re ecting on his character. e request came to me a few hours before a celebration of Varuj's life was to begin at the Angus Glen Golf Club. It was referred to as a party, get together or celebration of life. Whatever the noun, it seemed out of place considering the event was taking place the evening on the day of his funeral. at evening, over 250 people arrived in casual dress to reminisce about Varuj's life. Once I arrived I had found my inspiration and the basis of my testimonial to a wonderful man and good friend. To the many who knew him he was called VA. Not that Arkarakas was a di cult name to pronounce, but VA promoted a sense of the stature of the man. He was tall, strong, and athletic, with a passion for soccer and golf. He had the visible prowess to move a piano and the so gentle touch to hold a crying child, providing them comfort and security. VA loved life, and life loved VA. A dedicated husband of 30 years to his wife Hera and a proud father to his sons Aren and Evan, VA loved to be around people. It was with his friends and family that he was most at ease. What an industry! Just when you feel like everyone these days is scrambling aimlessly in so many directions, an event occurs that gives you hope and makes you proud. ere needs to be a common thread that brings people together. On a warm sunny day early in July people did just that: they came together. e event was the funeral for Varuj Arkarakas. An estimated 1,500 people, including diamond merchants, watch companies, salesreps, wholesalers and

retailers made the trek to e Holy Trinity Armenian Church to honor and say goodbye to a friend. Customers and competitors, friends from years gone by and others who may have met Varuj only brie y, put business aside and gave of themselves to support and be a comfort to VA's family. Our industry was represented by so many who for over an hour lined up and entered the church only to nd that they were le to stand as every seat was lled. All dressed in proper business attire, they watched and listened as the ceremony unfolded. It was a sad and somber time of tears and loss. e evening at Angus Glen was a complete contradiction to the morning’s service. It was here that one could see and feel the impact that VA had on so many. Gone were the tears of sadness. ey were replaced with the joy of celebration. Everyone who went that night did so for one reason: to honor and respect the memory of Varuj Arkarakas. In small groups of 2 or 3 to tables of 10-12, VA was remembered. People laughed, and smiled, and felt like they came together to revel in his memory. Everyone had stories to tell about VA and how he touched their lives. It was almost magical as we looked over the beautiful golf course that VA loved to play. We smoked cigars, drank scotch, had a bite

to eat and just hung out. is was his wish, and by all accounts his wish came true. e test to a man's character is the respect he is a orded by the people he had touched. From across Canada, members of the Canadian jewellery industry came together to honour VA as a person and as a businessman. e commentary was moving and the accolades were great. People greeted each other with the same enthusiastic hug that VA was famous for. Near the end of the evening, a slide presentation was shown on a large screen. ere was VA, his smile and charisma jumped o the screen. It was hard to believe he was gone. We all wondered when he would walk up to the 18th green and say hello. If only for a few hours, Varuj did something that seemed so unlikely within our industry. He brought people together and made us feel like we were all the same despite our competitive nature. We supported our friend, and supported each other. We should be proud. VA was the common denominator. It was his character – the honour and the respect – this was the testament to our friend. — Jeff Morrison

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For details, write #129 on Free Info Page, page 115

news | trends | events
IsDMA and Diamond Trading Company Annual Meeting
The annual meeting between IsDMA and The Diamond Trading Company discussed the current state of the Israeli diamond business and the trends in world diamond markets. Moti Ganz, IsDMA President, said that this strategic initiative is targeted to providing marketing support to Israeli diamond manufacturers and exporters, while at the same time providing real-time assistance and services to the Israeli Diamond Industry’s international trading partners. In the end, both parties agreed that strong working relationships are essential for the continued development and growth of the Israeli diamond industry. Also, Eli Avidar, Managing Director of the IDI Group of Companies, presented the strategic marketing campaign “Together Works” launched in March 2009 at this event.

Third Annual New York Jewelry and Watch Show
The third annual New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show at the Metropolitan Pavilion in New York City brought over 100 of the finest antique jewellery dealers from around the globe, including North America, Europe, Asia, and the Americas. The four-day event displayed stunning antique jewellery and timepieces. “We’re excited about the magnificent antique jewellery and watch pieces being offered at this year’s show,” said Andrea Canady, Fair Director. “The New York show continues to offer an intimate environment for collectors to peruse the finest selection of truly spectacular and highly coveted antique jewellery.” Not only did numerous buyers attend the show, but many celebrities as well. The attendees were able to purchase and browse the antique

jewellery, rare jewels, unique designer pieces and personal timepieces.

2009 Saul Bell Design Award Winners
Rio Grande has announced the winners of the Ninth Annual Saul Bell Design Award Competition, a competition that specifically recognizes artists whose work challenges traditional perceptions of jewellery designs, involving creating original and innovative pieces. Each designer chose one category out of six as the foundation of their piece and integrated additional stones or materials as they wished. Geoffrey Giles of Asheville, North Carolina won the grand prize in the Gold/Platinum category, winning a $10,000 Rio Grande gift certificate. Meanwhile, two Canadians were also finalists in the Emerging Artist category; Pamela Lauz from Oakville, ON and Blake Davey from Surrey, BC. This category celebrates young designers and their creativity in the jewellery industry. Don’t forget about Canadian Jeweller’s Excellence in Design contest happening this September; look for details in our next issue.

Pictured are Kevin Kaye and Gail Goldberg of JVC.

Roberto Coin Opens 10th Boutique in Cape Cod
Leading Italian jewellery designer Roberto Coin announced the opening of his fifth boutique in the US in the upscale Mashpee Commons, a main shopping destination for the Cape and the South Shore of Boston. The new boutique will offer some of the brand’s latest collections, including CapriPlus, Ipanema and Moresque. “We had a great opportunity to enter this market in Cape Cod and felt the timing was right,” said Peter Webster, President/Co-Owner of Roberto Coin USA, “The audience in the Cape is perfect for our product.” With 1,100-squarefeet of interior retail space, future plans for store renovations are slated to begin during the fall season. This opening marks the tenth worldwide boutique by Roberto Coin; other locations include Rome, Dubai, Macao, Baku, Venice, Atlanta, Asheville, Vero Beach and Carlsbad.

JVC Golf Tournament This years annual JVC Golf Tournament, co-chaired by Kevin Kaye and Eric Senftleben of Citizen Watch Company of Canada, was the most successful tournament yet. Raising 50% more funds compared to last year, the majority of the profits came from a silent auction. After a challenging business year, industry professionals came to Angus Glen Golf Club in Markham, ON to support JVC and to help raise money for the cause. Canadian Jeweller was also proud to be the official magazine for the tournament. 26
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Clear and precise: 29er BIG
For details, write #130 on Free Info Page, page 113

The 29er Big with its extra large casing truly lives up to its name. This new design is available with white or black dials. The hour and second hands are coated with Super-LumiNova. The case is of brushed and polished stainless steel and the sapphire crystal is scratch-proof and non-reflective. Glashütte precision at affordable prices…
Muehle-Glashuette Canada is looking for fine jewellery retailers from across Canada to bring the world’s fastest growing watch brand to Canadian consumers. Call, Fax or Email today for opportunities in your area! Muehle-Glashuette Canada Ltd 50 Sparks Street Ottawa ON K1P 5A8 Tel: 613.288.0650 Fax: 613.235.2472 www.Muehle-Glashuette.ca email: info@muehle-glashuette.ca

De Beers and Botswana Anniversary
One of the most successful public-private partnerships in the world, De Beers and Botswana, has celebrated its 40th anniversary. This unique partnership began in 1969, when the lease agreement was signed for the Orapa Mine and De Beers Botswana Mining Company Limited. At independence in 1966, Botswana was one of Africa’s poorest countries, but since the Botswana/De Beers partnership, it has transformed into a middle-income country. Nicky Oppenheimer, Chairman of De Beers said, “Debswana has a bright future. It is built on the shared commitment to turn Botswana’s national resources into national assets, the unflinching dedication of its Botswana employees, and its resilience in the face of even the strongest of storms. It is the bedrock of a wonderful bond, which De Beers has with the people of Botswana. Long may it continue!”

Henry Dunay Designs Bankrupt
Henry Dunay, a New York-based jewellery company that has outfitted dozens of celebrities and sells designs through upscale department stores, has filed for bankruptcy. After listing assets in the range of US $1-million to $10-million USD and liabilities in the same range, Henry Dunay Designs Inc, filed a voluntary bankruptcy petition in Manhattan.The Company’s customers included Tom Cruise, Leonardo DiCaprio, Elizabeth Taylor, Hillary Clinton, Nancy Reagan and Oprah Winfrey. Henry Dunay, the designer who launched the company in 1965, is listed as President of the Company on the bankruptcy filing. The company did not clarify why it filed for bankruptcy in its initial petition, however several jewellery companies have been forced into bankruptcy over the last year as consumers cut back on luxury purchases.

Shaesby Bridal Premiers, Wins Platinum Guild Award at Couture
Austin, Texas-based artist Shaesby Scott won the prestigious Platinum Guild Award for his first bridal collection at the Couture show in Las Vegas. The new unique line of wedding bands for women and men is carefully handcrafted in Shaesby’s studio. Each band also has the option of 18k yellow gold or platinum with rubies, sapphires and black or yellow diamonds in addition to the traditional white diamonds. The new bridal line features Shaesby’s signature satin texture, marquis diamonds and organic lines, which showcase the designer’s refined, modern aesthetic taste. “For years, my customers have requested that I create a grouping of bridal rings. My objective was to design rings as unique as each customer, while staying true to my aesthetics. I wanted to fill the void that exists in the market for creative, artistdriven rings that speak to the contemporary bride and groom,” says Scott.

September Hong Kong Fair To Be the Largest Ever
The Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, one of the largest jewellery trade fairs in the world will be taking place in September. The fair is the only exhibition in Hong Kong that spans two venues, the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) and Asia World-Expo (AWE). Jime Essink, CEO of the Company said that the show would cover a total area of approximately 100,000 square metres. Occupying eight halls in the AWE, the exhibition is also going to be 80% bigger compared to previous years. The almost 3,000 exhibitors participating in the fair would make this edition the biggest so far, he added. This year’s show will include the new Fine Gem Pavilion and International Premier Pavilion, which will showcase new wonders from across the world to buyers.

IDI Hosts Diamond Town Hall Meeting Hundreds of Israeli diamantaires attended Israel’s first ever Diamond Town Hall Meeting, hosted by Moti Ganz, Chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies (IDI), and including Gareth Penny Managing Director of the De Beers Group, and Varda Shine, Managing Director of the Diamond Trading Company (DTC). “This meeting is an additional step in IDI’s broad-based efforts to support and promote the Israeli Diamond Industry during this difficult time. The event testifies to the importance and vitality of Israel as a world-class diamond center. There is no doubt that this meeting offers an important opportunity to raise issues and to receive answers to the questions regarding pertinent issues facing the industry at this time,” Ganz said. Gareth Penny also said that over the past 120 years, the diamond industry has proven its resilience and after every recession, the diamond industry has experienced an immediate recovery. 28

Sapir Diamonds Welcomes New Managing Partner
Mark Sapir is pleased to announce that his new Managing Partner, Keith Williams, G.G., has joined the Toronto business. Keith has over 25 years of experience in the industry, and has past employment with Fabrikant and Baumgolds, will be an asset in working alongside Mr. Sapir.

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fortherecord
EGL Asia Signs Diamond Grading Agreement
EGL Asia, the only EGL diamond laboratory operating independently in Asia, has signed a diamond grading agreement with 21Gem.com, one of China's leading online gem and jewellery sales websites. The agreement positions EGL Asia as the exclusive grader and provider of certificates for loose diamonds and set jewellery diamonds sold on the website. Mark Gao, CEO, said, “We have tested EGL Asia's grading standards time and again at the State Center of Supervision and Inspection on Quality of Gold and Silver Products (NGGC), and are very happy with the results. We found their standard of service highly satisfactory for our customers.” Also, Joseph Kuzi, CEO of EGL Asia said that the agreement is an important development. “Naturally, we are very happy with this collaborative agreement. Of course, we will continue to do our utmost to provide our high quality services to the benefit of the 21Gem.com customers.” 21Gem.com currently plays a leading role in China's online diamond and jewellery retail sector. Meanwhile EGL Asia is one of the best-known gemological laboratories in Hong Kong. chain. “I am delighted that Fred Meyer Jewelers has officially joined the Responsible Jewellery Council. In so doing, they have demonstrated to their suppliers and, most importantly, to US consumers that ethical, responsible business practices continue to be integral to their core business,es” said Michael Rae, CEO of RJC. Peter Engel, president of Fred Meyer Jewelers, added that the Company would work with all of the suppliers to ensure responsible business practices remain at the top of their business priorities as well.

Forevermark Diamond Grading Report
Forevermark, a diamond brand from the De Beers Group, has introduced a diamond grading report. In order to reveal the unique characteristics of a diamond, official Forevermark jewellers are now able to provide a grading report, outlining the cut, colour, clarity and caratage qualities of the diamonds the sell. “Expert gemmologists at the Forevermark Diamond Institute assess each diamond according to the most rigorous criteria and highest standards of integrity and accuracy, personally approving each exclusive passport-sized Forevermark diamond grading report with meticulous attention to detail,” the company said in a statement. The Forevermark diamond grading report also features the unique identification number inscribed on the diamond and a specially designed security hologram, providing reassurance that the report is valid and genuine.

Basketeers’ 10th Anniversary
Basketeers, a charity project organized for 16 Canadian women’s shelters and one that is supported by the Canadian Jewellers Association, recently celebrated its tenth anniversary. A volunteer project, Basketeers consists of a generous group of approximately 1,500 volunteers who simply fill up baskets with various items for women who are starting “a new life.” In the past, various manufacturers and importers in the jewellery industry have supported this project, such as Daco manufacturing, Rousseau, Gilo Creations and Evenchick Jewellery. Over the last ten years, the project has expanded; originally it consisted of the original group of Basketeers covering the Greater Toronto Area and now four additional chapters exist in Stratford, Simcoe, York and Hamilton. The charity was founded by Cheryl Stoneburgh of Malo

De Beers and Debswana Support Community Projects in Botswana
Diamond Trust, a non-profit making entity founded by Debswana and De Beers, has donated $1.42 million USD to a trust fund that administers a number of community projects in the world heritage site of the Tsodilo area. Launched in 2007, the Diamond Trust is part of Debswana and De Beers’ efforts to support communities in Botswana. Sheila Khama, CEO of De Beers Botswana and a founding member of the Board of Trustees, said these funds will assist in the development of a community plan, enabling local communities to take an active role in the development of ecotourism. The project funding will support the development and management of about 16,000 hectares of land surrounding the Tsodilo Hills, according to a De Beers policy that seeks to focus on sustainable projects.
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House of Jewellery
55 Queen St. E. Suite#1302 Toronto, Ontario Tel: 1-800-668-4422 Fax: 416-368-0007 Email: HOJCanada@aim.com website: HouseOfJewellery.com We have many new items arriving daily from around the world! Please visit our showroom. Monday-Friday 10:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.

Please visit us at the following shows!
August 9-12, 2009 @Toronto International Centre Booth No. 5117

Fred Meyer Jewelers Joins RJC
Fred Meyer Jewelers, a fine jewellery retailer has joined the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), an international trade organization that represents over 100 member companies across all sectors of the diamond and gold supply

CGTA Gift Show

Alberta Gift Show
August 16-19, 2009 @Northlands Hall E
For details, write #131 on Free Info Page, page 113

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Birks Celebrates Canadian Olympics Birks has been named the Official Supplier of jewellery for the 2010 Vancouver Winter Games, a post that complements the brand’s celebration of its 100th Anniversary in Vancouver’s West Hastings flagship. Birks has created a licensed jewellery collection bearing the Vancouver 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games emblems as well as the Canadian Olympic Committee emblem. Products will include necklaces, earrings, pendants and rings bearing the emblems. Birks will also produce a limited-edition torch replica, bearing the Olympic emblems, which stands approximately a foot high and is mounted on a base. “This important initiative was born of shared values and of Birks’ commitment to delivering an incredible brand experience to a national and international audience,” says Tom Andruskevich, President and CEO of Birks & Mayors, CJ’s August 2008 cover story. “We are extremely proud to take part in this journey that honours our best athletes and celebrates excellence as the Vancouver 2010 Winter Games shine on the worldwide stage. Canadians look to Birks to mark the most important celebrations in their lives, which is why Birks wants to Rousseau JUNE JULYrevised:Rousseau 4/21/09 PearlsPM Page 1 1 MCD 1:15 SQ:Layout commemorate this important moment in Canadian history.”

2/25/09

10:31 AM

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MCD Pearl Imports
A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery.
catalogue available upon request

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fortherecord
Results From Christie’s Spring Jewellery Sale
A 6.29ct blue diamond brought in US$3.6million at the Christie’s spring jewellery sale in New York City after an anonymous buyer bought the stone for what works out to $565,000 USD carat. Other stones sold at the same event include a 46.72ct modifiedrectangular-cut yellow diamond with SI-1 clarity, which sold for $602,500 USD and a diamond necklace by billionaire jeweller, Laurence Graff, bought by a private buyer from the Middle East for $410,500 USD.

stock index
Company Name Stock Exchange Price Symbol 04/24/09 Price 06/26/09 % 52-Week 52-Week Change High Low Last Quarter P/E Revenue ($Millions) Ratio Market Cap ($Millions)

Precious Metals
Agnico-Eagle Mines Alamos Gold Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. Anvil Mining Limited Barrick Gold Corp. Eastern Platinum Eldorado Gold Equinox Minerals Limited First Quantum Minerals FNX Mining Company Fortune Valley Resources Gammon Gold Gold Fields Goldcorp Inc. Iamgold Corp. International Royalty Ivanhoe Mines Kinross Gold Lundin Mining Newmont Mining NovaGold Resources Pan American Silver Red Back Mining Inc. Silver Standard Resources Silver Wheaton Teck Cominco Ltd. Yamana Gold Inc. AEM AGI AU AVM ABX ELR ELD EQN FM FNX FVX GAM GFI G IMG IRC IVN K LUN NMC NG PAA RBI SSO SLW TCK.B YRI TSX TSX NYSE TSX TSX NYSE TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX-V TSX NYSE TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX TSX $57.980 $8.220 $31.580 $1.080 $35.990 $20.730 $0.560 $9.520 $1.900 $38.620 $5.490 $0.030 $8.240 $10.720 $34.630 $9.780 $2.520 $7.380 $18.740 $2.110 $47.740 $3.030 $20.500 $8.530 $19.840 $9.350 $11.930 $9.800 $63.000 $9.720 $37.980 $1.580 $40.400 $25.050 $0.520 $10.930 $2.840 $55.550 $8.250 $0.060 $8.120 $10.720 $41.850 $11.840 $3.710 $6.360 $21.640 $3.390 $49.130 $5.230 $21.450 $10.250 $22.100 $9.830 $18.580 $10.610 8.66% 18.25% 20.27% 46.30% 12.25% 20.84% -7.14% 14.81% 49.47% 43.84% 50.27% 100.00% -1.46% 12.39% 20.85% 21.06% 47.22% -13.82% 15.47% 60.66% 2.91% 72.61% 4.63% 20.16% 11.39% 5.13% 55.74% 8.27% $80.740 $10.250 $43.160 $11.190 $52.470 $35.665 $2.810 $11.900 $4.600 $75.950 $24.780 $0.200 $11.200 $13.990 $52.480 $12.540 $5.580 $12.600 $25.370 $6.460 $59.600 $10.000 $37.150 $11.190 $31.540 $16.000 $49.320 $17.220 $26.600 $3.500 $13.370 $0.450 $22.000 $9.000 $0.185 $3.440 $0.760 $12.750 $2.000 $0.005 $2.680 $4.640 $17.770 $2.930 $1.300 $2.060 $8.960 $0.690 $27.140 $0.475 $11.120 $3.280 $6.870 $3.070 $3.350 $4.290 $147.0 $36.5 $884.0 $15.4 $1,834.0 $163.1 $31.6 $54.5 N/A $268.2 $51.8 N/A $59.9 $718.1 $742.5 $228.0 $8.9 $4.3 $544.0 $154.9 $1.6 $0.4 $73.0 $85.9 $0.4 $48.3 $1,910.0 $282.4 75.49 21.61 70.94 0.84 43.88 19.1 N/A 19.64 12.41 N/A N/A N/A 31.04 28.97 15.56 552.31 62.83 N/A N/A N/A 30.14 N/A N/A 23.7 N/A 42.17 14.83 12.99 9,806.00 1,040.00 10,672.00 112.00 35,243.00 6,374.00 354.00 4,036.00 1,695.00 3,826.00 700.00 2.00 989.00 8,093.00 30,557.00 4,322.00 291.00 2,405.00 15,028.00 1,652.00 20,262.00 951.00 1,871.00 2,347.00 1,516.00 2,826.00 9,047.00 7,776.00

Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN

Watch Your Watch Parts
From calibres to column wheels, the complexities of watch making are becoming increasingly difficult for consumers to understand and for sales associates to communicate. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has devised a way to solve this problem with watch@tablet, an interactive touch screen PC with diagrams, pictures, videos and short explanations of watchmaking’s most complex concepts and movements. The sales associate or consumer can instantly summon information that is brand specific, general, historic or technical, with links to 30 FHH member brands. The program is loaded with entertaining animations, videos, charts, diagrams and photos that inform while generating interest in fine watches. It includes an exploded view of a mechanical movement and an explanation of each part, plus 11 documentaries on watch making’s métiers d’art. Content automatically updates when the batteries are charged via a wired Internet connection that also sits on the sales counter. Sales associates can download training material directly from the brands. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie supports 30 high-end member brands with public relations support, exhibitions, workshops and sales training, and recently implemented an advertising campaign to discourage the public from buying counterfeit watches, with a slogan that reads: “Fake watches are for fake people.” According to Emmanuel Schneider, watch@tablet project manager, “Part of the strategy behind Watch@tablet is to replace the need for consumers to search the Internet for information on watches by focusing it at one source. “We want to help the retailer keep the sales in the store.” [CJ]

GeMstones
Anglo American PLC BHP Billiton Limited Diamcor Mining Dios Exploration Harry Winston Diamond Moydow Mines Intl Inc New Nadina Expls Ltd Rio Tinto Stornoway Diamond Tahera Diamond True North Gems Western Standard Metals AAUK BHP DMI DOS HW MOY NNA RTP SWY TAH TGX WSM Nasdaq NYSE TSX-V TSX TSX-V TSX TSX TSX TSX-V NYSE TSX TSX TSX-V TSX-V $9.870 $46.560 $0.170 $0.035 $0.130 $5.150 $1.290 $0.100 $0.115 $156.950 $0.180 $0.005 $0.100 $0.100 $14.840 $55.400 $0.195 $0.070 $0.105 $7.200 $1.800 $0.140 $0.110 $168.950 $0.125 $0.005 $0.145 $0.130 50.35% 18.99% 14.71% 100.00% -19.23% 39.81% 39.53% 40.00% -4.35% 7.65% -30.56% 0.00% 45.00% 30.00% $35.606 $86.020 $0.590 $0.375 $0.370 $30.170 $5.070 $0.210 $0.290 $497.500 $0.365 $0.045 $0.385 $1.200 $6.210 $24.530 $0.130 $0.025 $0.050 $2.190 $0.730 $0.050 $0.075 $59.200 $0.055 $0.005 $0.050 $0.050 $11,780.0 $29,780.0 N/A $0.1 N/A $140.8 N/A N/A N/A $9,538.0 N/A $5.7 N/A N/A 6.94 12.7 N/A N/A N/A 53.85 N/A N/A N/A 15.72 N/A N/A N/A N/A 39,241.00 93,027.00 2.00 3.00 4.00 551.00 108.00 8.00 3.00 42,111.00 32.00 1.00 10.00 0.60

Diamond Fields International DFI

Mountain Province Diamonds MPV

Jewellers & retailers
Birks & Mayors Fossil Inc. Sears Canada Signet Group Tiffany & Co. Wal-Mart Zale Corporation BMJ FOSL SCC SIG TIF WMT ZLC AMEX TSX NYSE NYSE NYSE NYSE $0.430 $20.750 $16.500 $28.710 $47.870 $4.270 $0.600 $23.920 $20.200 $20.820 $25.930 $48.760 $3.550 39.53% 22.54% -2.65% 26.18% -9.68% 1.86% -16.86% $3.200 $32.960 $25.000 $26.500 $45.800 $63.850 $42.230 $0.200 $11.000 $15.000 $5.910 $16.700 $46.250 $0.890 N/A $323.0 $1,117.4 $762.6 $523.1 $94,242.0 $379.1 0.65 12.92 9.25 N/A 12.64 N/A 7.00 1,592.00 2,174.00 2,032.00 3,214.00 114.00 Nasdaq $19.520

14.18 190,792.00

coMModities
Gold Silver Platinum Copper COMX COMX NYME COMX $940.400 $13.860 $1,184.200 $230.600

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

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miningnews

Rio Tinto Hopes Destocking to taper off Drop in Diamond Sales
Rio Tinto is reportingly weary that its mines could see further cutbacks if an improvement fails to occur. Bret Clayton, Chief Executive of Rio Tinto’s diamond and copper unit, told the Mining Investment Congress in London that the Company has cut its diamond production by about a quarter due to the downturn and that the destocking of the supply chain has largely finished. “While we are not anticipating a recovery in the market, what we are anticipating is normal pull-through of the volumes,” he said. He further mentioned that the prices have slid by around 30% to 40% and sales of unpolished or rough diamonds have collapsed by about 70%.

Wallbridge Mining Initiates 2009 Exploration Program
Wallbridge Mining has announced that its partner, Impala Platinum Holdings Limited,

the world's second largest primary platinum producer, has allocated $1.6-million for the 2009 exploration program on the Parkin Offset dyke properties located in Sudbury. “We appreciate the support of our joint venture partner Impala,” stated Alar Soever, President of Wallbridge. “Their continued contribution to this project allows us to continue to aggressively explore these properties in spite of the difficult economic times. The first two holes of the new program, which includes 6,300 meters of diamond drilling, will target two highly conductive targets defined by geophysical surveys during the winter program. The Parkin Properties comprise a southern block of claims held 98.5% by Wallbridge and 1.5% by Xstrata Nickel, a central block of claims covering the historic Milnet Mine workings owned 100% by Wallbridge. A northern block of claims and three claims between Wallbridge's southern and Milnet claim blocks covering the Brady Showing

are subject to an option and joint venture agreement between Wallbridge and Champion Bear Resources.

PolyMet Officials Have High Hopes for New Type of Mining
PolyMet Mining, based in Canada, is hoping that the adjacent Duluth Metals Complex will create a sustainable, long-term United States source for copper, nickel and other precious metals. Other mining companies are also investigating the economics of mining other parts of the Duluth Complex, but the PolyMet project is the only one that has started the permitting process. PolyMet has spent about $20-million so far, which includes preparation of the Environmental Impact Statement (EIS). PolyMet currently holds the lease to mine a significant portion of the Duluth Metals Complex, which has been rated as one of the richest sulfide metal sources of copper, nickel and other precious metals in the world. [CJ]

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facevalue

Golden Rules
The ethics of appraising.
By Duncan Parker

e d u c at Io N a l

I

think of the word “ethics” as a verb. It’s an action word, because it is something we can practice, and through practice, we can get pretty good at it. By not practicing it, we can get pretty bad. Most of us do get some practice whenever we can, and enjoy the results, but simply don’t find the time to get down to it every day. If you are accredited as a Certified Appraisal Professional (CAP) through the Canadian Jewellers Association, you are bound by a code of ethics. Many organizations have established codes of ethics to which members are required to agree in writing. Codes of ethics are often established in response to a need, such as the existence of procedures or practices within a field of specialty that have brought about concerns or complaints within the industry or among those served by the industry. In this case, appraisers are no different from others in the jewellery industry. Clients bring their purchases to appraisers for verification that they didn’t get “ripped off,” but don’t want to let goods out of their sight while being appraised. Ironically, we are seen as the arbiters of truth, yet we are as mistrusted as the jewellers whose suspected deceit we’re asked to uncover. It is very helpful, therefore, to let clients know that we are bound by a code of ethics. As an appraiser, there are certain ethical standards to observe. Whether you are a full-time appraiser or just take appraisals in during the course of your retail business, there are certain standards of practice that should be observed. A code of ethics helps to make it clear what your basis of practice should be. Here are few standard practices that you should observe: • Never cut corners. As appraisers we offer our skills as gemmologists and our knowledge of jewellery. Cutting corners undermines your professionalism, and you will lose the respect of your client base. When something arrives in your hands described as a sapphire, for example, test it, just as you learned in gemmology school. If it isn’t a sapphire, you’ll be glad you checked and spent those extra few seconds. If it is a sapphire, you can issue your work with confidence.

ever-gorgeous

ever-changing

Forever

• Observe client confidentiality. We sell information, and that information must be kept exclusively between you and your clients. At Harold Weinstein Laboratory, we have a few clients who have given us a blanket exemption to release information to anyone who asks. On average, however, we observe a strict ethical practice of releasing information only to those for whom it was prepared or to someone to whom we have been given clearance to release it. • Don’t let yourself be pushed around. This is where it can get tough to stick to your program. An appraisal is often used as an independent verification of identity or quality. An appraiser may receive, in the laboratory, an item that has a grading or identification report conveniently provided. You are being asked to provide your independent point of view. You are asked to be fair and disinterested (but certainly not uninterested).
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Having been given a grading or identification, however, it is hard not to be influenced by that information. You might start to second-guess yourself: “I think it’s a VS-1 but they wrote VVS-1; am I being tough?” Instead, ask yourself: Is it a genuine opinion, or wishful thinking on the part of the client? How many times do we hear things like, “I agree with you about the diamond being SI-1, but I didn’t have a VS-1 and that’s what the client wants, so I need it to come up as VS-1.” If you stick to your SI-1 rating, you may not see more work from that client, but if they respect you, they will accept your honest opinion. What is the limit on inf luence that can be brought to bear on the jewellery appraiser? We are limited to our own moral and ethical codes. We are aware of generally understood ethical codes, but we also need to be aware of published and accepted codes. The understood codes are simple things, and aren’t really very different from the written codes: Do the right thing, tell the truth, and represent things as they really are. The written codes have been adapted as lessons from common sense, and are so obvious that we don’t really need them printed out, but they serve as a reminder, just in case. Codes of ethics are generally available on web sites of organizations such as Jeweller’s Vigilance Canada (JVC), or the Accredited Appraiser’s Association (CAP) at the CJA. Sometimes they are not even called codes of ethics, but codes of practice. In Canada, we have a code of ethics for CJA, plus there are sets of guidelines that were prepared through organizations including the Canadian Gemmological Association, The Insurance Bureau of Canada and Industry Canada, with widespread trade participation. Among these are “The Guidelines with Respect to the Sale and Marketing of Diamonds, Coloured Gemstones and Pearls,” and the “Jewellery Appraisal Guidelines.” Usually such codes of ethics or guidelines are not law, but are accepted as industry standards. It shouldn’t be law and fear of legal consequences that makes us adhere to codes of ethics, but the knowledge that it is morally correct to do so. It is comforting to know, however, that when a particular code of ethics or industry guideline is accepted in court, it becomes law through observance and acceptance in case law. And finally, here are two tips that are not written down anywhere but should always be observed: • Don’t put people’s jewellery in the paper shredder (this is one I have observed in the breach). • Don’t vocalize unpleasant feelings when you take the bracelet off a sweaty guy’s watch. It pays to know and do the right thing. Keep practicing, and you will be pleased with the results — it’s very slimming. [CJ]

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Visualizing the Bridal Market
Mapping out where and what is hot in this traditional market.
By RoBin G hamBiR
s the economy continues to face challenges, jewellers have been focusing more on the bread and butter bridal market. Bridal is the proverbial sure thing in jewellery: people get married and then about half of them divorce. In what has been observed as “the triumph of hope over experience,” about half of those who divorce remarry. With the advent of same-sex marriage, the market has grown further; all of which is good news for jewellers. So one might think that anywhere there are people, there is a market for engagement rings and wedding bands. That is mostly true. Within those categories are many combinations and permutations of designs, metals and diamonds. To cast some light on this, we used our log data to plot the geographic location of consumers who were searching through bridal categories on our network of retailers’ sites. Each balloon on the map represents a consumer who has browsed a particular category. So when we look at these maps, we are looking for two things: distribution and density. Distribution shows us where the consumers come from, and when we look at density, we are looking at where these balloons are most clumped together. We do this because this can show us where the market is more concentrated for that category.

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marketwatch
So to start, we mapped out engagement rings made from gold. And then we plotted engagement rings made with Canadian diamonds, which has a similar distribution in Canada but a lighter density, which would indicate that this is a smaller but significant portion of the engagement ring market across Canada. Now compare both of these maps with the platinum engagement ring category, which represents a much smaller part of the market and one that is more concentrated in urban areas. Then we wondered, since many engagement rings can also be worn as right-hand rings, how that market looked. As you can see, it's surprisingly large and pretty evenly distributed across the country. Given that women are more affluent and choose to marry later than in previous generations, the righthand ring market has seen steady growth. What else did we find? Well, there's a very large market for wedding bands with diamonds but a pretty small one for platinum wedding bands. We were also surprised that the number one item in our top ten engagement rings category wasn't a solitaire and wasn't made out of white gold — two long-standing trends (see page 40). The remainder of the list showed the continued strong trend towards white metal and the influence of pavé-set rings that have been prevalent for the last few years. To read more about the current trends and designs in the bridal category, turn to page 66 and find out how you can reap the benefits. [CJ] Wedding Bands with Diamonds

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marketwatch

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Golden Ambition
Jomark brings the best in Italian design to Canadian retailers.
By Sarah B. h ood

S

ince the time of the Renaissance, Italy has been a world leader in arts and design, from apparel to automobiles and film to furniture. Italy is also a world leader in jewellery design, and Jomark Italgold Ltd. is a leader in delivering the latest in Italian design trends to the Canadian retailer. Based in Woodbridge, Ontario, Jomark is an importer and wholesaler specializing in 18-karat Italian fine gold jewellery. Owner John Di Scola has been in the jewellery business for 20 years. In the beginning, he ran a distribution company out of the Niagara region, specializing in direct sales. After being introduced to a number of Italian gold wholesalers, he quickly established relationships with manufacturers in Vicenza and Arezzo, Italy. Today, he serves a roster of clients among the large- to medium-sized Independent jewelers across Canada. Of his tenure in the industry, Di Scola says there are “no bad parts,” but his favourite aspect is simply being able to work with the jewellery all day long, because of the beauty and desire of gold products. “We have a real passion for bringing quality goods from overseas,” Di Scola says. “Sometimes we don’t even look at price; we just look at the beauty of the items. It’s like

bringing a painting to a museum; you simply don’t think of the price. We’re the first to see the trends and we’re the first to bring the trends, and the people who jump aboard with us are going to be the leaders.” Di Scola attributes part of his company’s success to the fact that he has been able to stay ahead of the curve for many years by consistently attending the Vicenza Fair. Vicenza, held three times a year, was already considered to be a key date on the international calendar. In 2009, the fair began the process of going through a major reorganization to further position itself as an industry-leading event. In the past, the three annual shows did not differ much in structure. As of this year, they are much more strongly differentiated. The January edition, the first international gold jewellery fair of the year, targets buyers and large wholesale trade groups to showcase the first collections of the year. In May, the spotlight moves primarily to fashion and design, while in September the fair focuses on consumer trends, sector issues and customer service.

LeGi gold necklace with checkerboard cut quartz.

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are very personal; basically, you fall “Jewellery salesbuy it. There will always be business in love with a piece and you have to for the mom-andpop shops.

Increasingly, Vicenza is linking itself with satellite events, such as last February’s inaugural “About J,” a networking event for manufacturers and buyers in Milan. Attendance at all three Vicenza shows every year, says Di Scola, allows him to be “the first to pick and deliver the finest gold jewellery to Canada.” Internationally, he says, “Italian merchandise has been the leader in quality until now. They’re innovative in colour and design; they are leaders in fashion and leaders in quality.” Jomark handles numerous lines, including plain gold, as well as pieces with precious and semiprecious stones. “We pull from the best of each product,” says Di Scola. “We carry everything from A-to-Z, including chains, crosses, cufflinks and pendants. We have probably the best collection of hoop earrings that you can get in Italy. We bring the whole package to the retailer, whereas, if they go to Vegas, they can get only one or two retailers. With what we bring back, you could literally open up a store.” Di Scola is especially proud to be able to offer the luxury brand LeGi. Based in Vicenza since 1838, LeGi is one of the oldest manufacturers in the area. The company, named for the initials of the father and son who founded the business, manufactures three lines: LeGi, Prêt à Porter Jewelry (whose spokeswomen include Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell), and Zoccai. LeGi produces “mostly coloured stones with pink gold: amethysts, citrine, pink quartz, smoky quartz,” says Di Scola. The look of the line is distinctively Italian in its luminous use of pale colours in exquisitely chosen combination, with a light, flowing design line. Italian designers were among the first to start working with pink gold, “which has been very strong,” Di Scola points out. He says he believes that demand for the pink metal is poised to grow here in North America. “We’re starting to see the sales come through, but still we haven’t seen them come through as they have in the yellow and the white metal. Pink is a sleeper that will bloom,” he predicts.

LeGi gold drop earrings with checkerboard cut quartz.

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companyprofile

LeGi bracelet with various colours of quartz.

LeGi gold rings with checkerboard cut quartz.

Another coming trend is “lighter-weight gold,” he says. “For example, the earrings we have are the lightest for the size. The trend is to go lighter. Even LeGi has to make their product considerably lighter and more affordable than the next guy, even though they’re a designer brand. It’s all about price point. It’s not that people aren’t going to buy some big, expensive gold pieces, but definitely, the industry trend would be lighter.” Di Scola says he doubts the price of gold will drop very much in future: “I would think gold will be stabilized around this price or higher,” he says. Therefore, he predicts, “due to the rising price of the commodity and the increasing value of product lines, we see the future in bringing exciting new products that are trend-setting and relatively lighter in weight.” He also sees the company and the industry “diversifying by going into unique jewellery with coloured stones and pink 18-karat gold to attract a younger, more savvy consumer.” For the retailer, he says, “The biggest problem is cost of inventory. They tend to hold back a little, but they have to focus on inventory. The smaller places are scaling back, but the key is a diversified selection of merchandise. And gold will never go stale; there may be a style or colour that’s trendy one year and not the next, but gold never goes out of style, so the risk is minimal. After all,” he says, “people who invested in pieces three years or four years ago are doing very well now.” Certain classic gold pieces are essential and eternal. “Your basic breadand-butter gold earrings are always going to be in fashion, especially

hoop earrings,” Di Scola says. “Classic ladies’ gold bracelets and basic chains have been selling for hundreds of years, not just tens of years. The basics always sell through.” The strongest pieces of wisdom that Di Scola would offer retailers would be that “they have to invest in themselves and invest in their businesses. Give as much selection as possible and stay current with the new trends that will excite the customer when they come in. Even in these times, things come in and things go out.” Internet sales should not be ignored, he says, but there will always be an important place for the brick-and-mortar shop. “Internet jewellery sales will always take a piece of it, because people will think they’re getting value, but I think a lot of people will be disappointed at the end of the day, whereas in the brick-and-mortar stores you can try it on; you can see it. Jewellery sales are very personal; basically, you fall in love with a piece and you have to buy it. There will always be business for the mom-and-pop shops.” As for his own company, Di Scola says, “we plan to continually expand our lines and open new doors to people and jewellers who appreciate gold from the finest Italian artisans. We have a great service; we have great style. That’s the key to our success. We continue to grow year after year. Last year was our best year ever, in the middle of an economic storm. So we’re doing something right.” [CJ]

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From local ambassadors to fundraisers, Pat Thompson puts community first on the East Coast.
B y Carol B esler PhotograPhy By greg loCke
at Thompson, owner of Diamond Design in St. John’s, Newfoundland, is unavailable at the time I am scheduled to interview him for this story because he has rushed out to attend the funeral of a client’s father. This seems to illustrate perfectly his philosophy of retailing: “My jewellery store is about relationships – genuine relationships between my business and the clients we serve.” To Thompson, it would be unthinkable to miss an important milestone of any client, be it celebratory or otherwise, and whether it involves jewellery or not. One of his most memorable in-store experiences was the time a mother of a six-year-old boy who as killed in a traffic accident came in to have a ring made in honour of his memory. “I was never so complimented,” says Thompson. “She chose to do that in my store. I felt that it was a huge statement of trust in us.” (It also stands as evidence of the power of retail therapy, a comforting thought for any retailer who thought jewellery was meant to commemorate only happy milestones). This concept of relationship marketing is the principle behind Thompson’s store branding strategy. “Relationship marketing focuses on things like trust and commitment and from there, everything flows,” says Thompson, “charity, philanthropy, direct mail, advertising, instore events, POS marketing — my aim is to have our clients refer to our store as ‘my jeweller’.”

A Cut Above

P

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Family Ties Thompson has given his “brand” a lot of thought over the years. His father and grandfather were both watchmakers, first by servicing the marine chronometers on the ships sailing in and out of the Port of St. John’s, a trade that evolved into retailing. “My family’s firm was ultimately focused on the middle market, as was common from the 1950s to 1980s,” says Thompson. “With the advent of the malls, this became a cluttered market segment. I had a strong personal feel for the upper end of the jewellery market, so I decided to set out on my own and open Diamond Design.” “Apart from supporting a large number of charities in and around St. John’s, my wife and I personally attend 12 to 15 fundraisers a year. We support these charities with merchandise and financial donations. This helps in several ways, as it serves to highlight our brands, positions the jewellery in front of our clients and allows me to make new personal contacts in a non-sales environment. Giving back to the community is a strategic part of our public relations strategy.” Although he carries many high-end brands – including Rolex, TAG Heuer, Soho, Bellari, Fabergé, Simon G, Breuning and Asch Grossbrardt – Thompson’s second-most important principle is that no one brand can be bigger than the Diamond Design store brand.

Pavé-set diamond hoops by Max Strauss (Backes & Strauss).

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a visible in my store so “[I also believe in] maintaining that I am presenceto assist if needthat Diamond Design clients know available be, I don’t need to sell everything, but I feel it’s important for my clients to know that I am close by.

Guilloché egg pendants with with transulcent coloured enamel, in 18k gold, by Fabergé.

Rolex might have its ambassadors from the international arena, but Diamond Design has gathered testimonials from more local heroes. Thompson has signed on several “ambassadors” to appear in a regional ad campaign – St. John's natives who have made their mark outside the community, including Danny Cleary of the Detroit Red Wings, artist Mary Pratt, Newfoundland Symphony Orchestra Concert Master Alison Black, Blues musician Denis Parker and Olympic Gold Medalist Brad Gushue all appear in ad campaigns and at in-store events. They are given the option of taking a fee themselves for appearing in the campaign or having Thompson make a donation to their favourite charities. “Some of them, for example Mary Pratt, would never consider doing something like this otherwise,” says Thompson. He adds: “The campaign is all about how these people stand out in their chosen fields, and by association, so does Diamond Design.” Keys to Success Thompson notes several endeavours that help the store stand out, including “carrying brands that create an experience for all of my clients.” Pat also hosts invitation-only events four or five times a year, including intimate dinner parties. “This fosters strong ongoing relationships with our clients. From our database of 10,000, we're able to invite exactly whom we are targeting for each specific event.”

Another key to success is using a premium jewellery computer management platform (Executive) to assist in tracking, stratifying and identifying client opportunities. “[I also believe in] maintaining a visible presence in my store so that Diamond Design clients know that I am available to assist if need be,” he notes. “I don’t need to sell everything, but I feel it’s important for my clients to know that I am close by.” The same courtesy extends to his whole team. “All my sales people are chosen for their ‘helper’ personalities and not specifically for their jewellery knowledge. I can always teach them about jewellery, but I can’t make them nice people.” To make sure staff are on par and that everything functions well, the team holds formal and informal meetings three or four times a week. “Communication flow is imperative for our people to be aware of everything that is happening in the jewellery industry in real time.” Other incentives include generous remuneration above the retail norm: “This allows me to do two things, attract the best people available and set high performance expectations. I give each of my staff total control over meeting and exceeding client expectations. Accountability for client satisfaction rests with my sales people, from repair jobs to diamond sales. They all do a great job,” says Thompson. Furthermore, when circumstances permit, he flies staff to jewellery shows (they can’t drive from Newfoundland) because he wants “sales people who have a career, not a job.”
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take a quantum jump “The real possibility that gold may can have a significant due to the current economic uncertainty. This impact on how we sell and how our industry manufactures. Stability is key.

Pavé-set diamond circles in 18k white and rose gold, by Simon G.

Smart and Calculated Choices Of course, none of the above is relevant, particularly at the high end, without carefully chosen and managed merchandise. Thompson’s merchandising strategy is one of the most unique in Canada in that, even with his policy of maintaining a large inventory of brands and choosing brands that offer new collections every season (regardless of the fact that he does no memo), Thompson says he has never had a “sale” in all his 18 years in business. He acknowledges, “we have ends of lines,” but he handles them this way: “We note in our database which pieces have been admired, but not purchased, by which clients. After a few months, by the time it becomes old inventory, there might be, say, seven people listed for a piece. From there, it’s a oneon-one transaction. We’re honest – we say, ‘Look, this is an end of line, and we will discount to you as a thank-you for your business.’ They take it as a compliment. I have sold down all of my inventory this way,” says Thompson. Today’s Tomorrow When asked what Thompson sees as the top issue facing retail jewellers today, he chooses two, both of which are notably beyond the retailer’s immediate control: Firstly: “The real possibility that gold may take a quantum jump due to the current economic uncertainty. This can have a significant impact on how we sell and how our industry manufactures. Stability is key.” Secondly: “Wildly fluctuating currencies stand to wreak havoc with purchasing decisions both from a wholesale and retail perspective; 15% to 25% swings destabilize our industry. I know of a manufacturer this year that lost in excess of a million dollars profit on the dollar swing last fall. This is not good for our industry.” Thompson leaves the impression that there have been few missteps in building the Diamond Design brand, and it’s evident he’s come a long way with conscious effort and sound business choices. “I am often asked to speak at Memorial University’s business school to discuss retail marketing strategies with graduating commerce students and MBA classes. I'm all about telling my story to anyone who'll listen.”

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master in 18k gold and stainless steel.

Despite all the good, Pat does admit to a recent blunder on the sales floor. A woman and her husband were shopping for rings, and after noticing her protruding stomach, Thompson asked, “When are you expecting?” He replied, “I think my heart just stopped when she looked up at me and said, ‘I’m not pregnant.’” All in a day’s work. [CJ]
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Refined and
All the happenings from JCK Las Vegas.
By Paul a guirre

Reformed
The VIP Buyers Program in particular was a raging success, generating over $360,000 in buying activity at the show, apart from the hundreds of millions of dollars made on the show floor exclusive of the program. In a luxe exclusive lounge, the program provided an enjoyable way to purchase new merchandise, with a plethora of incentives, including a concierge and a $1,000 merchandise credit to be used with manufactures on the floor. The “Super Tuesday Stimulus Program” offered the first 77 retailers who produced an invoice received an American Express gift cheque worth $200. “Productive networking and business activity harnessed industry optimism and offered special events and educational programming to spread best practices and insight to accelerate economic recovery,” continued Bonaparte. On The Floor There was a definite buzz on the sales floor this year, with collections reflecting the direction of the jewellery industry: refined with classic luxury, creating pieces that reflect the necessity of the purchase, not just the desire. It seems to strike most, like with any other commodity or luxury purchase, that a piece needs to add something to one’s personal collection, it’s not simply enough to look pretty anymore. With buyers thinking carefully about their purchases, and the reduced budgets most brought along, it was evident that designers were pulling all the stops, with decadent designs screaming “you want me.” One brand really took conceptualization to a whole new level. Sabido & Basteris, a tiny booth located in the Italian custom jewellery pavilion and headed in Mexico, debuted some stunning pieces out of dyed silver and fossilized rocks, expressing a very natural approach to craftsmanship and ingenuity. Although not available in Canada yet, the brand boasts creative centerpiece necklaces that really tell a story.

W

hen Jeff Immelt, Chair and Chief Executive Officer of GE, commented to a Toronto crowd that we were in the midst of a “reset,” not a recession, he must have just come back from Vegas. At this year’s string of shows (JCK, Couture, Luxury), there was little open talk of the recession. I myself tried to steer clear of the topic, opting to focus on what designers and companies are doing to revive and reinvent their brands and offerings. What is evident, however, is that people are prepared to move forward and continue doing what they do best: designing, promoting and selling. A Complete Success Dave Bonaparte, Group Vice President of JCK Events, confirms the sentiments that were heard on the show floor, networking sessions and educational program: despite all that’s going on in the economy, JCK was deemed a success. “Las Vegas or lady luck had nothing to do with the success of the 18th annual JCK event,” he notes. “Given the challenging retail environment, JCK Las Vegas responded to the industry as a catalyst for buying activity between 2,700 international and domestic manufacturers and all retail categories with a robust VIP retailer program and daily sweepstakes to stimulate purchases.”

Sterling silver bamboo-motif bangles set with gemstones, from Thistle & Bee. Prices start at $550 retail.

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Floral Collection

High-End Fashion Jewellery & Loose Diamonds Nova Diamonds Inc. 221 Victoria St. Lower Level Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4 Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666

For details, write #141 on Free Info Page, page 113

The Designs
In terms of design aesthetic, it seemed that Vegas really set the tone for a new era of affordable designs, from construction to material usage and beyond. The concentration of jewellery designers from around the world makes the spring shows in Las Vegas – JCK, Couture, Luxury and others – an ideal place to confirm trends for the coming fall season. The most obvious direction in fine jewellery is affordable price points – silver, bridge and bridal are the buzzwords, including collections that are scaled down and set with smaller gemstones. Quartz and amethyst are filling in as primary centre stones, and there is a growing presence of opal and moonstone – both of which are being used more often in modern designs by firms that do for those gems what companies like Yvel have done for the modernization of pearl jewellery. Doublets are a big part of the quartz trend – fusing large quartz gems, often with top facets, over a flat layer of turquoise, lapis, coral or other mineral – something British designer Stephen Webster has been doing for years on the basis that, aside from affordability, it’s just a great look. Briolettes, diamond cuts, top facets, irregular shapes, off-color diamonds and random cuts are also strong gemstone trends. – Carol Besler
Sterling Silver Platinum and gold were also high-profile this year, with the World Gold Council’s booth promoting its members in an epic way, featuring displays and a tower-like structure fit to represent the allure and illustrious history of the metal. The Platinum Pavilion, sponsored by the Platinum Guild International, was big on encouraging platinum bridal to boost sales and build customer loyalty. This year’s theme, aptly enough, was “Platinum Commitment from Around the World.” Accordingly, display cases featured the best in platinum bridal from top brands. According to the Guild, “designers exhibiting at the show stayed focused and committed to their bridal business by returning to the classics, highlighting their best sellers, and in the end, retailers and consumers bought.” Signage was big for PGI this year, as “retailers have reported that in-store platinum signage as well as other visual prompts have driven conversations leading to increased platinum sales,” noted Michelle Peranteau, Manager of Marketing Communications at PGI. The Tech Buzz This year’s show also saw a huge assortment of technology-driven booths designed to make retailing and the online market a no-brainer, for the experienced and inexperienced alike. A major innovation was Briolettes and top facets Opal

Doublets: Doublet ring with quartz and turquoise, from the Crystal Haze collection by Stephen Webster. Rough-cut, off-color diamonds: Rough-cut diamond Flower ring from Nina Runsdorf. Moonstone: Moonstone and blue sapphire “easter egg” ring by Erica Courtney. Sterling Silver: From the Superstud collection by Stephen Webster. Opal: Lady Lavender ring by Katherine Jetter, who specializes in Australian opal. Briolettes and Top Facets: The Juicybugs collection with briolette gems, by Stephen Webster.

Indeed, the natural/organic-inspired trend was seen heavily on the floor, a return to earthly inspiration in the design process. In particular, Pandora and Swarovski (whose Fall collection I got a sneak peak of one day before JCK), introduced lines with wooden influences, with brown, purple and blue as highlight colours. Pandora, which launched an eco-collection with some wooden elements as well as its first fine jewellery 18k gold collection (LovePods), had much to celebrate in Vegas. “Our inspiration for LovePods came from shapes found in nature, especially the structure of flower pods with beautiful curves and rich bursts of colour,” noted Marketing Director Jody Christian when speaking of natural influences. Apart from a recent victory in a patent lawsuit, the Company also opened its first store in Forum Shops at Caesars Palace with a brilliant party. Elvis and showgirls were on hand, with complimentary chocolate poker chips, Pandora-branded playing cards and bubbly all around. The 1,000-squarefoot store joins only a handful of locations in the U.S., carrying all the lines and charms that made them famous, with prices ranging from $25 to $1,000 for each piece. There was even a special, limited-edition dice charm that was brought in exclusively for the store. “We’ve had great success with the Pandora line for several years and are excited to open a branded store,” noted owner Donny Borsack.

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Moonstone

Off-Coloured Diamonds

Doublets

jcklasvegas

INspIr a
sales bliss… but it’s refreshing to know, and inspiring to beauty of jewellery.

tIoNal

“So we might never return to pre-recession numbers or ”
every thing

see, that the industry still cares about the elegance and

Stuller’s Live Diamond Try-On iPhone mobile application that allowed users to photograph their hand and upload the picture into the application. Then, choosing from Stuller’s diamond and settings collection, users were able to create their ideal ring as well as a spec sheet. They could even ‘place’ the ring on the photographed finger and send the picture to all their friends and family for opinion. New kid on the block, Waterloo, Ontario-based emForium, managed to also start a buzz on its soon-to-be-launched online retailing project for retailers called All-In. “Jewellers are clearly ready for a more advanced and cost effective technology to meet the demands of consumers and manufacturers. We were confident the market would embrace our new platform and Las Vegas confirmed that our instincts were correct,” commented Amber Klaehn, Product Manager for the Company. “The industry has long been aware of technology, but a shift is occurring and there is currently serious interest. Jewellery and technology used to be viewed separately. Now, the industry has discovered that technology enhances the jewellery and customer experience and jewellers are looking to technology as a solution to help them manage through challenging times. Technology was definitely in style at this year’s show.” Many were also Twittering live from the shows (CJ included), offering up-to-the-minute happenings, pictures and comments on the show; just another way the industry is growing in strides when it comes to allowing itself to work with technology. Going Forward So we might never return to pre-recession numbers or sales bliss (at least not anytime soon) as per Jeff Immelt, but it’s refreshing to know, and inspiring to see, that the industry still cares about the elegance and beauty of jewellery. It’s also comforting to know the one thing that drives retailers, manufactures and designers alike to keep producing and going forward is not money, but passion. “Although it has been a tough year for the retail jewellery industry, JCK Las Vegas delivered to retailers and manufacturers an efficient and effective way to do business,” comments Bonaparte. “Manufacturers reported having very positive results at this year’s event by meeting with serious buyers who were looking for new and fresh inventory to take back to their stores.” So let us usher in a new era of jewellery retailing and designing, one focused not only on tried and true luxury, but also one based on the refinement and selfreflection that comes from these so-called “resets.” Throw in consumer-driven technological innovations, and the jewellery industry is set to keep going strong and keep getting better. [CJ]
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everlasting

Nevermore

let your sales message sustained Brand your store(s) Free to consumer and free to you

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silverfeature

Silver Lining
As consumers tighten their belts and the cost of noble metals soars, sterling silver comes into its own.
By Sarah B. hood
Pandora’s “promise set” features earrings, necklace and ring all in lavender enamel with CZ.

autious consumers may be deferring gold and platinum purchases, but they’re taking a second look at silver. These days, fresh fashion and design trends are giving silver a new place of prominence. Now is the time to make a little extra space in the showroom for a stunning display of fine sterling silver pieces. Although it will never soar to the heady heights of gold or platinum, the price of silver has seen a lot of movement recently. Until 2003, the price tended to hover around an annual average of $5 USD per ounce. It began a steady rise in 2004, and in March 2008, driven by investment, it saw a high of $20.92 USD. A decline followed, but 2009 has seen another steady rise. The World Silver Survey, released by GFMS and The Silver Institute in May 2009, predicts prices of $11.50 USD to $14.30 USD for the middle of the year, with a probable rise in the fourth quarter. GFMS reports that “global silver mine production grew by 2.5% in 2008… representing the sixth year of consecutive growth,” noting that Peru was the world leader in production, followed by Mexico, China, Australia, and Chile. Meanwhile, Bolivia produced more than twice the previous year’s output, and Russia’s production grew by 24%. Mine production is expected to drop off slightly in 2009, as is scrap supply, due to the phasing out of photographic film processing.

C

GFMS also foresees decline in demand, partly driven by the weak manufacturing sector and partly by the decline in photographic use of silver. In 2008, jewellery demand “fell for the fifth consecutive year by just above 3%.” Silver jewellery is expected to decline a little more this year, but it is interesting to note that the fabrication of silver coins and medals grew by 63% last year in response to an interest in investment pieces, especially the US Mint’s Silver Eagle bullion coin. In 2008, The Silver Institute launched the Silver Marketing Initiative (SMI), an offshoot organization headed by Michael Barlerin (former CEO of the World Gold Council) that promotes and markets sterling silver jewellery. The SMI has begun to appear at major trade shows, and is expanding the SavorSilver website, among other initiatives. And there are success stories in the Canadian retail silver market, many who have floated under the radar. For example, as of July 1, 2009, Thomas Sabo International and J. Ifrah Ltd. have combined as TSMI Ltd.

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The brightest star in living skies.

Greater Scintillation | Maximum Brilliance | Greater Visual Appeal
For details, write #142 on Free Info Page, page 113

(306) 763-3388 tel (306) 763-4488 fax P.O. Box 1374, Prince Albert, SK S6V 5S9 1203 Central Avenue, Prince Albert, SK S6V 4V9 www.maskwaoteh.com

silverfeature
2.

3.

1.

4.

1. Stuller drop earrings with pearl. 2. A pear-shape Blue Topaz ring by Lorenzo. 3. Pandora’s sterling silver circle of friends ring incorporates multi-colored CZ. 4. Stuller silver ring. 5. Cabochon Turquoise ring by Lorenzo.

5.

The company is launching its first of a planned series of retail outlets with a Thomas Sabo flagship store in Rosemere, Quebec, due to open in midSeptember. In 2010, a Thomas Sabo watch line is expected for Canada. “This is great news both for us and Thomas Sabo,” says Philippe Hazen, CEO of TSMI. “It’s the 25th year of Thomas Sabo, and we’ve been experiencing some above-average national and international growth.” The Thomas Sabo Sterling Silver Collection, designed by Susanne Kölbli, features three lines in a wide range of styles and price points. The casual Rebel at Heart line is “full of glamour, passion and sex appeal,” says Hazen. Motifs like skulls and dragons appeal to the inner rock star in youthful consumers. The Seasonal line is geared to current trends, taking inspiration from the beach, Asian themes, Flower Power and so on, rendered in sterling silver with amethysts and other coloured stones. The Classic Collection, – also youthful – includes “things that never go out of style”: chains, heart pendants, simple rings in silver and gemstones. Since 2006, the collectible Thomas Sabo Charm Club has been attracting increasing attention; 2008 saw the introduction of licensed Disney character charms that are always in style. Pandora Jewelry Ltd., is also about to launch its own branded mall-based stores through its retail partners, with the first slated for a September opening in Thornhill, Ontario. Downtown Toronto, Edmonton and Calgary are likely next locations.

“We’ve developed a very strong brand, and there’s a big demand for our brand,” says Pandora’s VP Canada Glenn Reinecke. “We like to call it affordable luxury. For jewellers that are carrying our product, Pandora is becoming a bigger percentage of their sales. It appears to be bucking the trend.” Like Thomas Sabo, Pandora targets a wide range of consumers with retail price points from $30 to $400 (CAD) and a collectible appeal. “Beads and bracelets are the cornerstone of our product line,” he says. Michael Clarke, Business VP, Finished Jewelry for U.S.-based Stuller Inc., says that sterling silver has recently “come to the forefront both as a fashion offering and as price-point satisfier for our customers” in larger pieces, such as oversize baroque cuffs, rings and earrings. “Our customers are able to take a very long margin because of the quality,” he says. “It was an important lesson for us that we cannot compromise the weight or the quality in favour of price.” “Silver looks good and it’s affordable,” says Reinecke. “Traditionally it has been the second grade to gold, but it’s grown into more than that. You are also getting tungsten and stainless steel jewellery that’s very popular right now; it’s added value to silver.” This year we’ve expanded it with charms, so we can have the price point from $15 USD wholesale. Our best seller is a pair of starfish earrings with freshwater pearls at $40 wholesale.” There is also a Stuller Swirl collection, which features silver salted with diamonds.

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August 12th - 14th Western Canadian Jewelry Expo Edmonton Booth #304

August 23rd - 25th Expo Prestige 2009 Quebec Montreal Booth # 704

August 30th & 31st JCK Vancouver Booth # 812

Sept 13th - 15th JCK Toronto Booth # 811

For details, write #143 on Free Info Page, page 113.

silverfeature

Stuller men’s silver chain.

Judy Richards, owner and president of Davidson’s Jewellers in Ottawa, says she was excited to discover the Seattle-based Lorenzo line of fine silver jewellery combined with 18k gold and a range of gemstones including amethyst, citrine, garnet, blue topaz and peridot. “We’ve been very successful with high-end silver, and we were looking at a retail price point between $200 and $600,” she says. “Also, we are finally seeing the arrival of the trend for big coloured stones.” Richards dedicated a showcase to the collection. “The response has been great,” she says. “Having the accent of a little yellow gold appeals to people who normally buy silver, and people who are used to buying white gold see it as fine jewellery.” Appealing and creative feature displays are helping sell silver collections. “The store has to be a bit of adventure and a bit of fantasy,” says Clarke. “The brick-and-mortar store will win hands-down over the internet, because it’s much more exciting. If a customer walks into a location – street or mall – and starts to get a story of jewellery wardrobing or how pieces are mixed and matched, that adds to the adventure experience that customers are looking for.” Reinecke says he also has “definitely seen an improvement where our full range of products is merchandised in one display case. When our retail partners had the beads on one side of the store and other jewellery on the other, there was a total disconnect; when we connected it, there was a great improvement. In today’s market,” he adds, “a lot of sales are made because of very good branding, and very good branding is successful because of very good product. The jewellery industry is in decline, but good brands are not.” “It’s not about the sterling silver; it’s about the choice you’re giving to the customer,” says Hazen. “You have to put the heart into it and have the quality and the design that customers demand.” [CJ]

Silver Advertisers in this Issue
AV Diamonds
t: 866.283.4367 w: www.pricepointleader.com

Best Bargains
t: 800.661.4871 w: www.bbjw.com

Boma
t: 866.366.2662 w: www.bomasilver.com

CGM
t: 818.609.7088 w: www.cgmfindings.com

House of Jewellery
t: 800.668.4422 w: www.houseofjewellery.com

J Ifrah
t: 800.361.4611 w: www.j-ifrah.com

Lotus
t: 877.593.0922 w: www.lotusjewel.com

Optimum
t: 418.873.2926

Pandora
t: 410.309.0200 w: www.pandora-jewelry.com

Rousseau
t: 250.655.9199 w: www.rousseauchain.com

Stuller
t: 337.262.7700 w: www.stuller.com

Trendy Group
Stuller silver bracelet.

t: 905.326.5981 w: www.thetrendygroup.com

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NATURE’S GREATEST BEAUTY SOMETIMES LIES BENEATH THE SURFACE

|

Toll free: 1 877 490.8499 (Canada and US) info@diaroughcanada.com | www.diaroughcanada.com Western Canadian Jewellery Show Edmonton booth #721

Montreal Expo Prestige booth #626

For details, write #144 on Free Info Page, page 113

Wrist Worthy
SPORT & CASUAL
Whether it’s a relaxing evening or a night on the town, these styles will take you from work to play — and day to night. Longines GrandeVitesse Chronograph 24h In a sleek stainless steel with tachymeter on the bezel, this model is intended for the bolder among today’s sportsmen. The case is impressive at 44mm with a sporty aspect emphasized by the non-slip surface of the crown, the caseband and the push-pieces. We’re especially admiring the dark brown leather strap lined with alcantara and fitted with a folding clasp. ($3,400)

A collection of fall’s newest watch styles that will have consumers swooning in awe.
By Paul a guirre

Frédérique Constant Healey Chrono-Automatic To commemorate Healey Challenge 2009 in Kingston, Ontario, Frédérique Constant introduces this limited edition (1,888 numbered to be exact) timepieces. The 43mm rounded case is in steel with a stylish silvered dial with blue accents, the official logo of the event is engraved on the case back with an aperture to offer a glimpse of the automatic movement. The brand already has a huge following in Asia, so look for them to make waves in Canada in the coming months. ($1,550)

OMEGA Aqua Terra Co-Axial GMT Seamaster New for fall, this addition is available either in 18k red gold or in stainless steel with a choice of a matching gold bracelet or a brown alligator strap integrated into the case. The polished, brushed 44mm case is water resistant and while distinctive design features might evoke life on luxury boats, it fits perfectly into the contemporary lifestyle. ($8,900)

Mühle-Glashütte The Mühle S.A.R. Rescue Timer With an effortless design, and the legendary precision of this newly-launched in Canada brand, the S.A.R. Rescue Timer represents dependability whatever the situation — whether at sea or going to the limits of extreme sports. Nothing can shake this timepiece. ($2,420)

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watchroundup

CLASSIC
A classic watch, much like a suit, will always be in style, so offer these pieces with timeless appeal.

TW Steel CEO Canteen Collection This brand is gaining global recognition, and this model in particular experienced a surprising sales interest after JCK Las Vegas. With a brown Italian leather strap, Grade A rose gold case and chronograph dial, this model expresses simplicity and elegance that place it far above its modest price point. ($675)

Citizen Eco-Drive Silhouette With a name fitting the woman who wears it, this watch boasts a svelte stainless steel platinum-tone case and is outlined with 34 diamonds and enhanced by a motherof-pearl dial and cabochon crown. (starting at $575)

Bertolucci Bella Costa With an all stainless steel black PVD case, this unisex chronograph is a unique expression you’ve come to expect from Bertolucci. It features 11 Arabic numerals, black rubber strap on folding clasp and patterned black dial. Without being excessive, it makes the perfect gift. ($1,600)

TAG Heuer The Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic Available this September, this unique reinvention offers a brown dial and steel bracelet, reminding us why the classic Carrera was so successful. I predict this to be the ‘it’ watch among celebs this fall. ($2,100)

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LUXE
Those who can’t help but be loud and lavish will indulge in these stunningly sophisticated yet simple pieces. They speak for themselves…

Charriol Colvmbvs Collection This brand never disappoints when it comes to couture. It’s quartz, all steel, and has a white mother-of-pearl dial with diamonds. There’s also that fabulous diamond bezel (full diamond weight 1.38ct) and white crocodile strap to match. ($7,490)

Rado Integral Gold Glitter Pavé Give them glitz without the price tag. With a curved sapphire crystal, this watch will get attention wherever it goes. Other notable sell points include a gold hi-tech ceramic bracelet with a yellow PVD titanium 3-fold buckle. ($2,600)

Bertolucci Gioco In an 18k rose gold case set with an astounding 177 diamonds, this opulent work of art (far beyond craftsmanship) has a purple satin strap and a stunning white mother-of-pearl dial. ($62,000)

Hublot Big Bang Apple Let’s go back to the dawn of time — literally. The Big Bang Apple by Hublot is an opulent extravagance that will pop no matter who wears it. With a tsavorite-set bezel and a case in red gold or black ceramic, there’s also an alligator strap lined with rubber that’s too yummy to resist. ($29,000)

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watchroundup

Bill Stoner

Stephen Taylor

Gucci for FFAWN Twirl Partnering with Mary J. Blige and Steve Stoute’s Foundation for the Advancement of Women Now (FFAWN), this limitededition twirl watch is black PVD with black diamonds and a special case-back engraving. Launching in September, a portion of the proceeds from each watch will go directly to FFAWN. ($1,895)

STONER RETIRES FROM BULOVA WATCH COMPANY, LTD., CANADA; TAYLOR NAMED SUCCESSOR AS COMPANY PRESIDENT
New York, June 15, 2009 - Bulova Corporation has announced the retirement of Bill Stoner as president of Bulova Watch Company, Ltd., the Toronto-based Canadian subsidiary of the global timekeeping company. President of the company since 1997, Mr. Stoner joined the company in 1969 as a sales representative, becoming executive vice president in 1984. “During his tenure, Bill has guided the company through significant challenges and is leaving our Canadian business well-positioned for the future,” said Bulova Corporation president, Dennis W. Perry. “We are grateful for his many contributions, his leadership and his friendship.” Mr. Stoner will remain an advisor to Bulova Corporation, reporting to Mr. Perry. Following initial support for the transition efforts in Canada, he will balance his time between Bulova Canada and working directly with Mr. Perry on the ongoing plans to globalize the Bulova business. In a concurrent statement, Bulova also announced the appointment of Stephen Taylor as the new president of Bulova Watch Company, Ltd., effective July 6, 2009. Mr. Taylor was most recently associated with Philips Electronics Ltd., the Canadian division of Philips Electronics, N.V., where he served as vice president and general manager, Domestic Appliance and Personal Care Division. Previously, Taylor was president and general manager, Canada, for Sara Lee Coffee & Tea Ltd. Taylor's career has also included nearly twenty years at Nestlé Canada Inc., where he served in a variety of management, marketing, sales and operations positions, with a focus on consumer products. He began his career in sales, holding posts throughout Canada ranging from sales representative to vice president, national sales. Founded in 1875, Bulova remains one of the world's most recognized brands, reaching a wide range of consumers with its Bulova, Bulova Accutron, Caravelle by Bulova, Wittnauer and licensed Harley-Davidson® Timepieces by Bulova watches, as well as the award-winning Bulova Clocks. An independent subsidiary of Citizen Watch Company, Ltd. of Japan, Bulova is headquartered in New York City, with offices in Switzerland, Canada, Mexico and the Far East. Continuing to maintain its position at the forefront of the timekeeping industry, Bulova is committed to upholding an extraordinary legacy of excellence in design, style and technology as it expands to meet the needs of a diverse global audience.

Christian Tse Cheetah Talk about call of the wild. This nature-inspired creation has 1.15ctw chocolate diamonds, 2.50ctw of black diamonds and 4.75cwt yellow sapphires with a black stingray band. No need to say a word, just listen for the ‘awe’… ($11,000 USD)

The Bulova Watch Company is Canada’s leading watch company with brands including Bulova, Caravelle, Bulova Accutron, Harley-Davidson, Wittnauer and Bulova Clocks
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For details, write #145 on Free Info Page, page 113

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Bridal
to the
Wedding jewellery might be the only growing segment in a slow market.
B y Carol Besler

bridalfeature

bank
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I

s love the only thing that can save the jewellery industry from the current economic downturn? Thanks to the entrenched Western tradition of purchasing wedding and engagement rings upon betrothal, the bridal jewellery segment seems poised to represent the one growth factor in the coming year for retail jewellers. According to the World Gold Council, the sale of gold wedding rings in the US is a $1.4 billion industry. The average ticket is about $150. In 2007 — the last year for which the WGC released statistics — sales of wedding rings increased by 3.6% in dollar value, making it the second-fastest growing category, ahead of gold bracelets, earrings, neckwear and charms. The only category showing more growth was fashion rings, a segment that is expected to drop off dramatically in the coming months.

• Estimated average cost of a wedding in America: $30,860, with an overall market value of $71.8 billion USD. • Estimated average cost of engagement ring: $4,411 USD, with an overall market value of just over $10 billion USD. • Estimated average cost of his and her wedding rings: $2,067 USD, for a total market value of about $4.7 billion USD. • The bride and groom will spend an average of $582 USD(total market value $1.3 billion USD)on attendant gifts, and $139 USD (total market value about $315 million USD) on parent gifts. A recent study conducted by Modern Bride magazine showed that instead of reducing their wedding budgets in the coming year, engaged couples have reprioritized and plan to spend their dollars on items that will last forever. The top three items on that list of items of lasting value are the honeymoon, photography and the engagement ring. The survey reported that 90% of brides said they are either keeping to their original wedding budget or planning to spend more; 85% said specifically that they would spend the same or more on wedding jewellery.
CJ

The Bridal Association of America (BAA) forecasts that 2,326,485 couples in the US will fall in love and get married in 2009. Over the next 10 years, that number is projected to increase by 30%. The BAA also forecasts the following for 2009:

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Diamond and platinum engagement ring, with emerald-cut centre diamond available in 1.50ct to 4.49ct size, from the Ballerine collection by Cartier. Cartier’s bridal sales have risen more than 30% in the last year.

De Beers is calling it the “fewer, but better” factor, predicting that consumers are more likely to purchase items of enduring emotional value. This includes a ring that will last a lifetime. The Wedding Report, a website that reports wedding statistics, says more than 40% of brides and grooms recently surveyed consider “durability” to be a primary determining factor when purchasing a wedding band. In fact, according to the Modern Bride survey, about 81% of brides said they desired platinum. On another note, according to Platinum Guild International, this is a great time for retailers to communicate the intrinsic value of platinum to consumers in order to take advantage of this trend toward quality over quantity, pointing out that the Jewelers of America’s latest Cost of Doing Business survey found that platinum jewellery’s gross margin ranks the metal well above the national average. Additional tips on tapping into bridal sales in the coming year include: • Package bridal jewellery as a three-ring set in order to ensure you clinch the sale for all three items: engagement ring and his-and-her wedding bands. • Take the opportunity to sell rare natural-coloured diamonds, which, because they are not commoditized, represent one of the most potentially profitable margin categories for retailers. • Remember that “bridal” includes more than engagement and wedding rings. Gifts for the bride and groom, wedding party and parents and children of the couple are opportunities for added business, as are services such as jewellery repairs, enhancements and custom design. • Selling bridal jewellery is an excellent opportunity to start an ongoing relationship with a client, supported by customer service, anniversary or birthday gift suggestions and maintenance. Offer a gift certificate for free maintenance down the road. • If platinum and even gold are too expensive during the downturn, remember that some bridal jewellery is now being made with palladium, which is about half the price of gold and a third of the price of platinum. As a platinum group metal, it has the purity and whiteness of platinum, and is hypo-allergenic.

market, that it began rolling out a new Bridal Salon concept last year in its boutiques across the US.

“So confident is Cartier in the bridal ”

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bridalfeature
The outlook for bridal is not completely unaffected by the recession. The Wedding Report predicts spending will be down about 6% to 8% across the board in 2009. And while people will still fall in love and get married, and still require bridal jewellery, they might be choosing smaller diamonds. Blue Nile reported last fall that its sales indicate a shift from solitaires to diamond bands, representing a price shift from about $6,000 USD to $3,000 USD. Steve Polacheck of Polacheck Jewelers in Southern California, says that while his bridal business is strong, brides in the second-marriage market, which generally purchase diamonds of $10,000 and up, has tapered off. “I’ve sold more wedding bands than large diamonds in the past four months,” said Polacheck in March. Still, many leading retailers are banking on the bridal business in the coming year, dedicating floor space in their stores to bridal sales. So confident is Cartier in the bridal market, for example, that it began rolling out a new Bridal Salon concept last year in its boutiques across the US At the same time, the company has stepped up its inventory of bridal jewellery and launched a bridal personalization service — “Set For You by Cartier” — aimed at providing clients with the engagement rings of their choice in 10 days. This is a strategy worth adapting to any jewellery retail business right now, as the diamond market is overstocked and well-priced. If you can sell a large diamond, now is the time to buy for good margins. [CJ]

Diamond and micro-pavé ring from Claude Thibaudeau’s Simplicité collection, available in platinum or 18k white gold.

DESIGN © FREY WILLE

Join our team of selected retailers Contact: optimumimportation@hotmail.com or (418) 873-2926 | www.frey-wille.com

Jew.OptimumImportation_203X125_HWW9.indd 1

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For details, write #146 on Free Info Page, page 113

specialfeature

Responsible Retailing
The Responsible Jewellery Council discusses why sound business practices matter for the future.

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he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) was established in 2005 by a group of 14 like-minded organizations from a crosssection of the diamond and gold jewellery industry. The RJC is an international product stewardship organization representing over 125 member companies, large and small, across the gold and diamond jewellery supply chain. The RJC is governed by a Board of Directors, supported by a number of Committees and is run by a management team with offices in Australia, Canada, Italy and the United Kingdom.

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TM

AIR MILES ® CORPORATE INCENTIVES

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CORPORATE INCENTIVES

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specialfeature
Member companies range from retailers such as founding member Tiffany & Co, and newly welcomed Fred Meyer Jewelers, to mining operations such as De Beers, Rio Tinto and Anglo Gold Anshanti. “But to rebut any perception that the RJC is an organization for large companies, RJC also has many independent retailers and single-location cutting operations amongst its diverse membership,” says Michael Rae, CEO, RJC. RJC Members are committed to promoting responsible ethical, human rights, social and environmental practices in a transparent and accountable manner throughout the industry from mine to retail. Their commitment aims to reinforce consumer and stakeholder confidence in diamond and gold jewellery products. The Council has developed the RJC System — a certification system that will apply to all Members’ businesses that contribute to the diamond and gold jewellery supply chain. Under the RJC system, all commercial members of the RJC will be required to be audited by accredited, third party auditors to verify their conformance with the RJC’s code of practices. This unique system builds on recognized international initiatives like the Kimberley Process certification scheme, the International Labour Organisation conventions, SA8000 and the United Nations Global Compact. The Council extends the opportunity of membership throughout the industry, including large and small businesses, at all levels of the supply chain. The RJC groups its membership into the following: trade associations, service industries; diamond and/or gold producers, diamond trading, cutting and polishing; gold refining, hedging or trading; jewellery manufacturing or wholesale; and retail. “The idea that my company can be a member of a standards-setting organization that is peerless in its requirement for independent third party auditing of my operations before achieving certification was what clinched it for me to join,” says Mel Moss, President of Regal Imports in Vancouver, British Columbia. Moss has completed the first stage of the RJC certification path by undergoing a self-assessment of his operation, an exercise through which he says he learned a lot about his own business. “I always believed that I pushed my suppliers and appraisers to be as honest and transparent as possible. I know I am a demanding retailer and the confidence my clients must have in my work, my materials and my supplier relationships is what is crucial to my success,” says Varouj Tabakian of Jewelley by Varouj in Toronto, Ontario. Tabakian was the first Canadian retailer to join the RJC and believes that RJC certification will put him in good stead with today’s discerning consumer. “By being an RJC member, it is not just my talk or my assurances; I can back up my 30 years in business with an assurance system with international recognition — and teeth!” The Council welcomes the involvement of organisations and stakeholders who have an interest in the jewellery industry’s ethical, human rights, social and environmental performance. The Responsible Jewellery Council and a full list of its Members can be found on its website. For further information, please visit www.responsiblejewellery.com. [CJ]

“RJC Members are committed to

promoting responsible ethical, human rights, social and environmental practices in a transparent and accountable manner throughout the industry from mine to retail.

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Determined to Dominate
Small businesses adapt to stay afloat and even prosper during tough times.
By Howard Grosfield

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or many small business owners, not just those in the jewellery industry, alarm over the downturned market has evolved into a quiet determination among business owners to remain in the black during the recession. While it’s unclear when the economy will rebound, it’s become increasingly evident that entrepreneurs across Canada will not sit idle when it comes to determining their best strategies to stay strong. Certainly, many small business owners have taken bold and sometimes surprising steps to help ensure their survival and even thrive amidst the uncertainty. While many were initially hoping to weather the recession without making many changes to their day-to-day businesses, the reality is that most small business owners have taken steps to protect their business finances and cut spending. Even though some choices have been difficult, it’s clear that selfish tactics and massive layoffs are not part of the picture for small business. According to survey findings from a recent American Express Canada Small Business Monitor, small business owners have chosen to make personal sacrifices to protect their companies. One quarter of respondents forfeited their own salaries and almost the same number are investing personal funds and would rather do so than cut staff. Other cost-saving strategies include cutting back on expenses (60%), curbing personal spending (48%) and increasing customer value (46%) to improve cash flow and manage business during the downturn. A supportive environment Small business employees are often akin to close-knit communities, with many having worked together for years and even decades. Offering support during tough times has taken on a new level of importance in this economic climate, and many owners have gone to great lengths to protect their best workers, employing other cost-cutting measures in an effort to retain talent and keep employees happy. In fact, many small businesses have begun to invest personal funds in their business rather than eliminating incentives such as raises. The Small Businesses Monitor shows a full 30% of respondents still offer bonuses and three times as many small businesses are hiring (28%) than are cutting back staff (8%). One might assume that this gritty determination to succeed weighs heavily on personal happiness and optimism about the future – but this is not the case. While most entrepreneurs admit to feeling the negative impact of the recession, they have faith in their companies and are willing to stand behind their employees and their business models. A full 70% say they are confident that their business situation will improve over the next six months, and the majority believe that the rewards and opportunities associated with running their own businesses still outweigh the risks and challenges. A look to the south Are Canadian small businesses owners faring any better than their American counterparts? A similar American Express study conducted in the U.S. provides some insight on a number of matters, including small business owner optimism and the impact of the current economy.

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According to economists, the financial fallout in the U.S. has come on a much grander scale than here at home, which is reflected in the U.S. survey results. A mere four in ten American small business owners are optimistic about their near-term prospects, and capital investment and hiring plans are at their lowest level in the eight-year history of the U.S. survey. The U.S. data also show that almost half have instituted a hiring freeze (48%) and 30% of owners are no longer taking a salary. Nevertheless, some bright spots exist: for example, four in ten owners feel the current economy creates opportunities. What does this mean for Canada? In many respects, it appears we are in a better position for recovery than our peers to the south but regardless of which side of the border you’re on, the recession is having an unwelcome impact on the bottom line. Before the rainbow comes the rain Undeniably, it’s still a sobering time financially for many small business owners and their staff. Few are weathering the recession in Canada without some battle scars to show for it, which is understandable given all the insecurity in the market. According to the Small Business Monitor, two in five (42%) are worried things will get worse for their businesses before it gets better, and 26% have concerns about meeting payroll. A further one in 20 are worried about making it through the next six months, saying bankruptcy is possible. Despite all this, more than 80% of small business owners remain willing to take a certain degree of business-related risk, which could reflect their instinctive determination to go it alone in the business world in the first place. As many small business owners have learned, risks are often a necessary step on the path to rewards. To stay competitive and even emerge stronger when the economy rebounds, business owners are taking a number of moderate business related risks, including investing in new equipment or other capital expenditures (52%), using personal assets to cover costs (32%), using a line of credit or bank loan to pay creditors (30%) and extending payment terms for customers (18%). Overall, the tenacity and positivity shared through the Monitor survey and during conversations with small business owners provide a welcome glimpse of hope among this important business segment. Small businesses have been widely credited as the backbone of the Canadian economy — and they are unwavering in their efforts to navigate the economic storm with sacrifice, optimism and key strategies that will help ensure their continued success. [CJ]
Howard Grosfield is the Vice President and General Manager of Small Business Services for American Express Canada and International. He’s an expert on small business relations, and, of course, keeping credit in check.

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designerprofile

Canadian Connection
An in-depth look at Gee N’Gee’s brilliant diamond designs.
By Bonnie Siegler

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ver 30 years ago, Gee N’Gee found a lucrative home in Vancouver, British Columbia where Gil Bishouri, founder and owner, settled. Bishouri’s journey spanned several thousand miles — from his native country, Israel, to the beautiful mountains and Pacific Ocean. In his early days in Israel, the young Bishouri excelled in creative art and from there decided to learn the art of diamond cutting. Over time, he became a master cutter for small to specialty cut diamonds. But he never limited himself to just cutting these gems and has also traded in diamonds.

Parlaying his creative art into creative diamond designs, Gee N’Gee has become recognized by diamond traders as a pioneer of designer jewellery and is the exclusive distributor in Canada for the Flanders Collection of diamond jewellery. Canadian Jeweller (CJ): What is the derivative of Gee N’Gee? Gil Bishouri (GB): It is the two initials of the first two names of Gil and Gideon. Gideon was my original business partner when we opened the business in the late ’70s. After eight months, he moved back to Israel. Gee N’Gee was then incorporated and I now hold the position of President and CEO. CJ: How have your jewellery designs been influenced by your Israeli/ Middle Eastern background? GB: I grew up in a country where diamonds are one of the major sources of revenue. As a diamond cutter for many years, I have somehow developed an understanding of what can be classic designs that can stand the test of time and contemporary pieces that are appealing to both young and adult consumers. CJ: What inspires you now and how do these inspirations reveal themselves in your designs? GB: The joy of a satisfied and content customer is what inspires me to create and design these beautiful pieces.
A Flanders-cut solitaire in pavé setting with 19k gold.

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Vancouver
Booth 930

CJ: Gee N’Gee has been creating diamond jewellery for the past 30 years. How have your designs and technology evolved over three decades? GB: Like many other jewellers, there is always a need to thrive, to excel and become unique. Our designs have evolved from designer pieces to contemporary ones that are affordable, but with the utmost regard to quality and craftsmanship. Since we are based in British Columbia, Gee N’Gee caters to clients of different tastes, with different ethnic backgrounds and age groups. These mainly influence the pieces that we create. For instance, for a woman in her twenties and thirties, what’s popular is a variety of solitaires. For those in their forties through sixties, it’s more of a heavier look — a lot of pavé diamonds and channel-set diamonds. Gee N’Gee is one of only a few jewellers in Canada to offer Gemvision’s Matrix CAD design, Gemvision Revo 540 milling machine and laser welding technology. With Matrix, we can custom-design any type of jewellery. Clients can imagine and see what the finished piece will look like before it is made. They can also get a better quality piece because of the wax model — which is actually made from our CAD rendering design. CJ: For many fine jewellery designers, the choice of gold varies from 18k to 24k, yet you specialize in 19k gold. What is so unique about this type of gold? GB: The colour of the 19k gold is like non other. The whiteness of 19k is greater than the rest. Also, the goldsmith’s ability to work on this metal makes it unique. It is not an easy metal to work with. CJ: You also work in platinum and it seems many in Hollywood choose platinum pieces when going to award shows or special events. Is there a particular reason that platinum is their metal of choice then? GB: Platinum is a precious metal and I believe that it symbolizes boldness, beauty, wealth and fashion. CJ: What gemstones do you incorporate into your designs in order to give them a burst of colour? GB: Tanzanite, kunzite and pink sapphire. CJ: You also use pearls in your pieces as well. How do the smooth, polished textures of pearls complement the brilliant surface facets of diamonds? GB: We are using mainly Tahitian pearls — South Sea pearls. The contrast between the black colour of the pearl and 19k white gold, in combination with our special design, gives our pieces a distinct and unique look. CJ: What do you think will be some of the upcoming fall and winter trends this year in jewellery?
Top: A Flanders channel setting that has almost no opening between the stones.

GB: A lot of micropavé pieces for the ladies in combination with pink and white gold pieces.

Bottom: A representation of Flanders pavé setting, which is the latest and most sophisticated diamond setting techinque.

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CJ: With 19k gold, platinum and diamonds, do you believe your designs represent a consciousness of the current economic climate? GB: There is a saying: “The bitterness of a poor quality remains after the sweetness of a cheap price is gone.” So regardless of the economic climate, people are well aware of what they want, the quality and the price. Customer satisfaction and excellence is our main goal. CJ: Your designs represent a certain sophisticated look with diamonds — what do you think the pieces say about the woman — and the man — who wear them? GB: A woman who wears our jewellery will look regal, elegant, beautiful, sophisticated and simply sexy. A man, on the other hand, will look dignified, strong, wealthy and accomplished. CJ: In your opinion, what is the right time and place to wear a diamond piece from your chic Flanders Collection? GB: The regal and sheer elegance of our Flanders Collection is ideal for special parties and occasions… for every important occasion. [CJ]
BW_AD_203x125:135 15.06.2009 16:33 Uhr Seite 1 A Flanders pavé setting.

Made in Germany/Fabriqué en Allemagne

BERND WOLF
For details, write #151 on Free Info Page, page 113

Information: Optimum Importation Inc. (418) 873-2926 optimumimportation@hotmailcom

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Made in Italy
The old adage maintains its allure with the insider scoop and trends from Charm at Vicenza.
By Carol B esler
ecession or not, Italian jewellery manufacturers remain determined to stay ahead of the design curve and maintain quality standards. Pared-down designs and competitive price points combined with a dedication to innovation were evident in the new collections from exhibitors at Charm, the second of the trio of jewellery trade shows held annually at the Vicenza fair. The Italian jewellery manufacturing sector — which exports about three-quarters of its production — has been dealt a blow by the global recession, but remains determined to maintain market share through innovation. Domenico Girardi, COO of the Vicenza fair describes the newest offerings from Italian designers as “easy to wear. The goal is maximum aesthetic result at the lowest possible price, without taking anything away from manufacturing in the top quality range,” says Girardi. When asked about the possibility of reducing the number of fairs to two rather than three per year, given the economy, Girardi responded that the decision to maintain three fairs is geared to evolving buying strategies. “Retailers place orders three times a year now, and this will grow more common as they tailor their buying more closely to demand. “This is independent of the crisis,” he says. “It’s just a need.” The following trends observed at Charm represent innovation rather than a return to basics or classics this fall, as some were predicting.
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1. Top faceted amethyst ring in white gold with diamond accents, from the Bubble collection by Alfieri & St. John. 2. Resin coated metal beads from the Pebble collection by Fifth Season. 3. Silver and carved mother-of-pearl ring from the Tea Time collection by Bliss. 4. Light-hued, briolette-cut amethyst with small diamonds and pink sapphires, by IoSi.

Metal Blocking Fewer diamonds and gemstones set in gold pieces does not have to translate into bleak designs. Contrasting blocks of white, yellow or pink gold, fused together and often hand-finished, add dimension and architectural flair. The look corresponds to the chunky colour-blocking evident in recent in runway fashion designs. Briolettes, Top Cuts, Checkerboards In gemstones, the top-facet rules. This means free-floating briolettes above all, and where gems are set, they are top-faceted with familiar checkerboard cuts or in fresh-looking random shapes and irregular facets. The result is a subtle glamour that looks hand-made and corresponds to the toned-down look of luxury in a recession.

Doublets The doublet, once used by charlatans to imitate large gemstones, is making a sensational — and fully disclosed — comeback. They occur primarily in the form of clear quartz or crystal fused to a thin sub-layer of mineral such as lapis, turquoise or coral, through which the colour glows through the crystal that is fused on top of it. Evolution of Stations The trend toward beads in irregular shapes, including beaded gems and pearls set between lengths of chain, is still strong. New variations include larger chain links and double strands between stations as well as larger gems or clusters of gems (especially briolettes) between chain lengths.

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1. Enamel and gemstone rings by La Nouvelle Bague. 2. Light-hued amethyst, citrine and smoky quartz necklace, with diamond accents, by Calgaro. 3. White and black diamonds surround a flower made of obsidian, from the Anamone collection by Bibigi. 4. Brown, white and black diamond “frog” ring in 18k white gold, by Pippo Perez.

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Enamel Expressions of colour are important at a time when jewellery must be design-forward and bold in order to attract attention. Italian jewellers are uniquely qualified, with the tools and talent, for fine enameling processes. Flowers Petal mania is still a strong trend, in increasingly stylized, modern variations. Briolette cuts and top facets lend themselves well to the look. Hand Engraving Silver is prominently used in new collections and is being finished in various ways to tone it down, most notably a buren-finished scratched surface. Much of it is also rhodium-plated to prevent tarnishing.

Amethyst This regal, acccessible gem is everywhere, in various shades from very light to fully saturated. Price Points Aside from the introduction of accessible silver collections by most major manufacturers, other signs of downward price targeting include: narrower shanks, smaller pendants, cutouts in gold metal designs, rows of small diamonds and gemstones rather than or to complement large gems; the use of wood, including ebony; grey, ice, brown and black diamonds rather than white diamonds; other substitutions, such as pink tourmaline instead of pink sapphire, quartz or quartz doublets instead of moonstone; and, from one manufacturer (Fifth Season), a resin coating over metal beads. [CJ]
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starwatch

Coast-to-Coast
Celebrations went from coast-to-coast — and even Europe — in the past few months with celebrities donning their finest. Here are the jewels that are making the rounds and going coastal.
By Bonnie Siegler
Wearing Neil Lane’s new collection of Meteorite Diamond and Platinum Jewels From Outer Space for the premiere of Star Trek in Westwood, California, Zoe Saldana sparkled. She wore ball meteorite earrings shaped from meteorites with diamonds and platinum. Leighton Meester chose stacks of diamond bangles and diamond stud earrings, while Winona Ryder soared in gold, pearl and diamond bracelets, earrings and cocktail rings.

Leighton Meester Leighton Meester’s diamond bangles. Zoe Saldana

Earrings from Neil Lane’s Meteorite Diamond and Platinum Jewels From Outer Space worn by Zoe Saldana.

At the 13th Annual Art Directors Guild Awards in Beverly Hills, Marisa Tomei wore a Bochic abalone shell, raspberry tourmaline and diamond necklace to complement her strapless red and gray draped gown.

Ring from Neil Lane’s Meteorite Diamond and Platinum Jewels From Outer Space worn by Zoe Saldana. Marisa Tomei’s Bochic abalone shell, raspberry tourmaline and diamond necklace. Marisa Tomei

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For details, write #152 on Free Info Page, page 113

Tech Talk
Technology’s relevance for today’s jewellery retailers.
By A mber K lAehn
hese days, it’s next to impossible to avoid technology in all its forms and how we interact with it every day. From booking travel or doing our banking over the Internet, to listening to our favourite music on our portable players, to checking our email, it has consumed almost every facet of our lives. Its benefits to our society are very clear: we are far more productive, more knowledgeable and better connected than at any point in human history. The need to continuously stay ahead of our competitors requires us to be connected to the online society constantly. Unfortunately, technology has been somewhat unfairly blamed for the erosion of human personal relationships as more and more people conduct business and maintain friendships behind computer screens.

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In addition, we are constantly bombarded with new technology announcements, breaking news and latest trend revelations that will render whatever we are doing today obsolete by next week, if not sooner. It is intimidating, to say the least, for those who are technology savvy but for those who are not, it is downright frightening. Within our own jewellery industry, technology has played a major role in creating new challenges and opportunities for us. A major challenge we face is contending with the emergence of online jewellery retailers such as bluenile.ca. These retailers have built very successful businesses by offering a wide variety of stock jewellery while also allowing shoppers to design and build their own unique pieces and have them shipped to their homes within 24 hours. The sheer convenience, along with the wide

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variety of merchandise and many attractive shopping options available, make these online retailers a very legitimate threat to the survival of independent jewellery retailers. How does one successfully compete against them? And what role can technology play in helping traditional brick and mortar retailers survive through these challenging times? The answer likely does not lie with independent retailers creating their own online stores to compete against much larger online retailers. Despite this advice being frequently doled out at industry conferences by well-intentioned online consultants, it directly contradicts the very nature of the jewellery retailing business. As we all know, this is a relationship-oriented industry and the most successful independent retailers have long ago learned this is critical to their success. By maintaining very intimate relationships with their best clients, independent jewellers provide a level of service that no online retailer will ever be able to match. By capturing every aspect of a customer’s key life events, along with a deep understanding of their hobbies, interests and other personal information, the successful jeweller has learned to market the right merchandise, at precisely the right time through the right marketing venues and has established a level of customer loyalty that most other industries envy. So how can technology help independent jewellery retailers maintain their competitive advantage in this bold and innovative online world? I believe the answer lies with
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let your sales message sustained Brand your store(s) Free to consumer and free to you

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customers could upload images of their personal items so they could eventually get assistance in nding suitable matches. Customers could also automatically subscribe to your store’s newsletter and routinely be informed about promotional events or specials that you may o er. leveraging technology to enhance the customer service experience. In other words, use the power of the Internet to provide a whole new level of customer service for times when your customers are unable to come into your store due to inclement weather, schedule constraints or other logistical issues. Does this mean we should go online, as the consultants keep telling us? By all means, a resounding “Yes!” But the intent of why you should go online is the di erence. Rather than simply creating yet another online site that duplicates merchandise in your store, you could provide all the capabilities your customers would expect if they were physically present in your store. You could, through your site, enable them to create and maintain their own pro le with information such as contact details, personal interests, upcoming special events, along with their wish lists. Additionally, For repairs and custom work, customers could automatically create their own orders along with estimated drop-o times, and could even use your website to inquire into the status of their orders and to determine the appropriate pick-up dates and times. Of course, customers can also browse and purchase merchandise as well! Technology will play a vital role in helping jewellery retailers maintain their competitive advantage online. It’s about understanding your unique business di erentiators and applying technology to enhance them, rather than changing your business to accommodate technology. [CJ]

Amber Klaehn is the Product Manager at Emforium Group Inc. Since 1998, she has been actively involved in both the jewellery and technology industries, consulting jewellery retailers on their store operations and helping them successfully implement technology.

For details, write #153 on Free Info Page, page 113

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advertisingfeature

A Diamond in the Ruff
INKAS® offers protection and piece of mind when you need it most.
greatest heists of the 20th century, continue to be preoccupied with their operational distractions and personal schedules, INKAS® has managed to forge ahead, cultivating relationships with its clients. Listening to customers, focusing on their needs, providing flexibility and offering innovate solutions has not only assisted in the Company’s growth, but has also been the prescribed backbone for success. INKAS® “thinks outside the vault,” offering extremely competitive prices and several services that the security goliaths do not. Two such innovative services exclusive to the jewellery industry are the Store To Door delivery of luxury items purchased from merchants and the Door To Door Deposit services offered to anyone who wants 24/7 access to their safety deposit box without having to leave the home or office. Both services are performed by armed couriers in unmarked armoured vehicles, who are fully insured, mitigate risks associated with valuables and offer personal attention for the discrete individual. Store To Door Delivery Offers jewellers, both retail and wholesale, the opportunity to complement the sale of their luxury and prestigious items by providing secure transportation of the precious merchandise to the buyer’s destination. If there is value, there is a need for security, whether the items are rings, watches, brooches, bracelets, earrings or necklaces. Jewellers are also finding this service to be extremely useful when clients need to send the items back for repair or cleaning. This type of VIP attention is not only innovative — it also generates a competitive edge. From the first horse-drawn caged buggies to the advanced tracking systems and sophisticated technology of today, the armed courier industry has changed substantially. A century and a half ago, a handful of companies, while still wet behind the ears, attempted their feat at providing the securitization of valuables during transportation. This perilous service was the inauguration of the armed courier industry as we have come to know it. Battles raged and lives were lost, but the need for security and protection continued to exist. Despite these conditions, a few companies endured and began cementing their roots. As horsedrawn cages eventually gave way to armoured vehicles, those that survived have grown into the armoured car industry giants of today. Those industry giants, the modern day icons of security, rich and steeped in history, have cast a long and dark shadow across the security arena, making it difficult for others to build and prosper. Despite this monopoly, one company has taken it upon itself to cast its own light and gleams where few have ventured with success. INKAS®, the relatively new kid on the block, and perhaps the diamond in the ruff, continues to carve a niche in armed courier services. Innovative Offerings What INKAS® lacks in the pedigree of its industry peers, it more than makes up for in the pursuit to offer innovative solutions. Despite being an old cliché of sorts, the key to the Company’s survival is its unwavering philosophy: the “Customer Comes First.” While industry giants, synonymous with some of the Door To Door Deposit The Door To Door Deposit service allows an individual to access their safety deposit box in the comfort of their own home or office. All boxes are housed by INKAS® in their vaults, and unlike most banks, are fully insured. Clients simply arrange for a time or schedule a regular delivery. INKAS® will arrive with the safety deposit box, allowing the client to access or add to its contents. Upon completion, the box is returned back to the vault where it is safely stored. Customers that subscribe to the Door To Door Deposit have added comfort by placing stickers in their windows that inform any potentially unwelcomed visitors that “the valuables belonging to this premises are picked up and stored by INKAS®,” making any criminal activities futile and senseless. The Bottom Line Surprisingly, the costs for both Store to Door delivery and Door To Door Deposit are very reasonable, fueling the demand for such services. Jewellers, merchants and customers are taking advantage of both services as it offers peace of mind knowing that their valuables are safe, secured and fully insured. Although there may not be anything sexy about armed courier services, the pickup and delivery of cash and valuables or the storage of precious metals and stones, there is something truly appealing about innovative solutions. And unlike its counterparts, who have weathered the storm, the next hundred years may see one more giant emerge. In the meantime, INKAS® is really starting to shine. [CJ]
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Eastern Influence
The Japanese jewellery market is growing at a rapid pace, extending its influence beyond borders.
By Gordon Feller

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he estimated size of the jewellery market in Japan — in terms of retail sales in 2007 — was 1.2 trillion yen, or approximately US$10.16 billion. Following encouraging signs of recovery in 2005 after 14 consecutive years of market decline (1991-2005), economic factors, as well as continuing high prices for raw precious metals, led to a 5.8% decrease in retail sales in 2007. However, the economic meltdown will start being seen as soon as 2009 numbers are tallied. Nonetheless, sales of imported brand jewellery have been increasing each year and are estimated to be approximately one-fourth of all jewellery retail sales. Recent sales of famous brand jewellery account for one-third of all retail sales, and roughly 60% of all brand sales are international brands. Both domestic and import brands with good name recognition among consumers are doing well in the market. The United States has been the top supplier of silver and platinum jewellery, and the largest supplier of precious metal jewellery products overall for the past several years. Japan continues to be a highly competitive, but attractive, market for unique and fashionable jewellery products with a good brand image.

In the past few decades, Japanese consumers have been experiencing major changes in lifestyle, with strong influence from Western cultures. There are many female consumers who look more favourably on imported brands, especially individuals in their 30s to early 40s who grew up in the “bubble economy” when many foreign brands were status symbols. On the other hand, there are consumers with a preference for fashion items that are not prestigious brands, yet unique and distinctive in design. There is no single trend, but a wider range of preferences than was evident in the past. There are two dominant consumer groups in the jewellery market: the younger generation — people in their 20s looking for unique and fashionable jewellery at affordable price ranges, and the mature 30-40 year olds with more disposable income to spend on upscale/luxury items. According to a consumer study conducted in 2007 by the Yano Research Institute, affordable fashion jewellery priced less than US$400 had about a 46% share in terms of sales volume. Jewellery priced between US$8001,700 had the second largest share at 21%, followed by jewellery priced between US$1,700-4,000 with a 15% share.

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The precious metal raw material price of platinum, silver and gold reached a high in early 2008. As Japan depends on imports of almost all raw materials, high precious metal prices can raise retail prices by 20% to 30% or more, which has a great impact on jewellery sales and consumer spending. The challenge for domestic manufacturers has been to maintain or reduce the retail price of their products in the last few years, given the higher price of raw materials. They have started selling lower-karat precious metal jewellery products, such as 10k or 14k gold, to target younger consumer groups. For decades, 18k precious metal has been the Japanese standard, and 10k, 14k, and 22k were very rarely found in the market, especially in the retail channel, until recently. However, these are coming to be accepted by younger consumers due to their affordability. Imports of diamonds have been decreasing, while coloured stones/semi-precious stones at lower prices have been increasing. Many prestigious brands have begun to promote jewellery, and have also opened up new stores or flagship store buildings in upscale shopping districts in Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya in the last three-to-four years. With a concentration and a number of store openings in major cities, competition has been higher than ever among luxury brands. These brands have been growing steadily each year, though sales of the international top brands did not expand despite an increased number of stores in 2007. There is also a growing market for buyback jewellery (used jewellery bought from consumers). An increasing amount of used, high-end, prestigious brand jewellery has been available for resale at much lower prices in various retail chains and on the Internet. These factors resulted in an oversupply of prestigious brand products in the market. Domestic jewellery manufacturers and retailers have been struggling due to greater competition with imported jewellery as a result of decreased consumer spending. Sales of famous brand jewellery account for one third of all retail sales, and 60% of brand jewellery sales are international brands. Sales of imported brand jewellery are estimated to be about one fourth of all jewellery retail sales and have been increasing their share each year. Both domestic and import brands with good name recognition among consumers are more successful than most non-brand products. Jewellery is often classified according to the type of precious metal employed, whether it is gold, platinum or silver-based on the Harmonized System (HS) code classification as follows: HS Number Commodity 7113.11-000: Articles of jewellery of silver 7113.19-010: Articles of platinum 7113.19-029: Articles of jewellery of gold, excluding chains for watches, spectacles or pince-nez and other ornamental chains worn on the person. The estimated size of the jewellery retail market was 1.2-trillion yen (US$10.16-billion), in 2007. The market showed signs of recovery in 2005, with a 2.1% increase after 14 consecutive years of decline. A new, wealthy consumer group called the “New Rich,” successful entrepreneurs in IT or the stock market in 2005/2006, contributed to this recovery. However, sales have struggled again in the last few years due to growth constraints on overall consumer spending on jewellery. These include higher retail prices caused by high raw material prices, as well as a weaker Japanese yen, which made many jewellery products less affordable. Nonetheless, Japan has a US$10.16 billion jewellery market, the third largest in the world after the United States and China.
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ever
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internationalfeature
Total imports of precious metal jewellery decreased by 6.1% in 2007 from the previous year. The United States has been the largest supplier of precious metal jewellery products, with a 25.8% share of all imports of precious metal jewellery, and has also been the top supplier of silver and platinum jewellery for the past several years. It is challenging for new brands to enter this competitive market that has well-established key players. However, new, unique and fashionable designer jewellery with good brand recognition and/or established representation in other international markets may have potential in Japan. It is important that suppliers seeking to enter this market understand and are able to meet Japanese consumer standards and preferences for sophisticated and delicate design with fine small details, quality and careful workmanship. Among jewellery products, the best prospects include: Wedding Rings With the increasingly diversified lifestyle of Japanese consumers, wedding and engagement rituals have been changing among younger couples. Due to high precious metal raw prices, total sales of both wedding and engagement rings increased by value by 7.4% and 5.8%, respectively, in 2007, while diamond engagement ring sales have been decreasing by volume in the past several years. With lower birth rates and an increasing number of single households, the total number of marriages continues to go down. However, there will continue to be strong demand for wedding rings among marrying couples, as the exchange of wedding rings has become a well-established symbolic marriage ritual. Men’s Jewellery One of the ongoing trends with potential for growth is men’s jewellery. Tiepins, cuff links, and watches have been standard accessory items for men for decades. Today, many imported prestigious brands carry jewellery specifically for men or market their unisex jewellery to men. There is a rising interest in personal jewellery and luxury goods among male consumers, and a broad range of fashionable products for men is available in the market. Yano Research Institute estimates the current size of the men’s jewellery market at 49.30-billion yen or about $417-million in 2007, a 9.8% increase from the previous year of 44.9 billion yen or $387 million.

Jewellery Imports of Precious Metal Jewellery 1998 & 2005-2007 *Gold Total Imports 1998
Volume Value 15.7 $409,447

2005
21.2 $812,164

2006
20.8 $829,366

2007
23.7 $790,422

*Gold U.S. Imports 1998
Volume Value 1.5 $36,619

2005
2.2 $43,616

2006
3.0 $51,430

2007
3.4 $63,118

*Platinum Total Imports 1998
Volume Value 2.3 $176,564

2005
3.8 $349,421

2006
4.2 $444,077

2007
4.8 $415,434

*Platinum U.S. Imports 1998
Volume Value 0.6 $82,851

2005
2.0 $178,223

2006
2.5 $235,502

2007
2.0 $232,080

*Silver Total Imports 1998
Volume Value 115.1 $147,317

2005
237.1 $302,316

2006
236.3 $305,737

2007
170.8 $272,212

*Silver U.S. Imports 1998
Volume Value 34.4 $69,785

2005
27.4 $98,798

2006
32.1 $99,962

2007
22.3 $88,250

2007 Ownership Ratio of Jewellery/Fashion Accessories among Male Consumers
Age Group Fashion Ring Necklace Bracelet Cuff Links Tie-pin

(Volume in tons; Value in US$1,000s)

20s: 30s: 40s: Over 50: All ages:

48.1% 43.4% 32.1% 17.2% 37.0%

74.1% 54.2% 56.6% 34.5% 54.7%

25.9% 34.9% 47.2% 24.1% 35.4%

18.5% 22.9% 35.8% 69.0% 32.8%

25.9% 43.4% 50.9% 72.4% 47.4%

Among all precious metals, silver jewellery showed a large drop both in overall imports and in imports from the United States, both by volume and value, in 2007. Overall imports of gold and platinum jewellery by volume increased from 2007, while imports by value dropped. This indicates that lower-priced platinum and gold jewellery was imported into the market in 2007. The Yano Research Institute estimates that imported brand jewellery accounts for about 25% of the retail market, which was approximately 2.54 billion in 2007. This represents a slight increase from the previous year and is roughly three times the 7.9% share of imported jewellery held in 1995.

(Source: Yano Research Institute Consumer Survey)

Men in their 20s and 30s wear more fashion rings and necklaces, while men over 50 tend to wear traditional accessory items, such as cuff links and tie-pins, for business occasions. About 59% of male consumers (average rate of all age groups) responding to this survey said that they do not own any of the jewellery/fashion accessories listed above. There might be some room to expand sales to this group.

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For details, write #155 on Free Info Page, page 113

Top Importers of Gold, Platinum, and Top Importers of Gold, Platinum, and Silver Jewelleryin 2007 Silver Jewellery in 2007
Gold: Country Share %

USA 8.0

Hong Kong 7.53

New Designers/Fashion Jewellery with Brand Recognition Building their own brand or representing new designer jewellery brands from overseas may be a key to success in this market for many domestic jewellery retailers who do not have their own established brands in place. ere are many new designers of fashion jewellery from Europe, and some from the United States, that are being introduced by leading department stores or shopping outlets in an e ort to di erentiate products from other retailers. e competition for new entries has been very high. Re-Made Jewellery Jewellery re-making (called the “reform” market in Japan) is a niche that has been growing recently. Small retailers/retail chains with workshop functions are the key players re-making old jewellery into new and oneof-a-kind designs for customers. Challenges and di culties in this new business include meeting diversi ed individual preferences in di erent age groups, lifestyles and fashions. Domestic production of precious metal jewellery has been decreasing since its peak, a record of 373.7-billion yen (US$3.6-billion) in 1994 to about 213.52-billion yen (US$1.9-billion) in 2005. e continued downsizing of the jewellery market is not only the result of sluggish economic conditions, but also due to higher precious metal prices and a weaker yen. Many Japanese jewellery manufacturers have been entering international markets to promote their brands. Exports are estimated to have more than doubled from 2004 to 2007. e leading exporters of precious metal jewellery to Japan are the United States, Italy and France. Together, these countries account for more than 60% of all imports of precious metal jewellery to Japan on a value basis.

France 28.3 Switzerland 9.8 Italy 21.1

Platinum: Country Share % Italy 2.3 Spain 2.9 Switzld 22.0 France 22.0

USA 55.8

Among importers, the United States has been the top supplier of platinum and silver jewellery for the past several years, and also has been the top supplier of overall precious metal jewellery products imported by value since 1997. e exception was in 2004, when the U.S. dropped into second place a er Italy. Although Japanese jewellery products are recognized for their precise and careful workmanship, many Asian products have a reputation for a ordability, while jewellery products from Europe and the United States are known for their sophisticated and stylish designs. Speci cally, the United States is known for wedding rings and machine-made products, as well as other high-end handmade luxury products. European jewellery is known for its high fashion appeal in both the classic and modern styles, as well as for high-end brand jewellery. Recently, many fashionable costume/fashion jewellery products from overseas in silver or bronze with cut or uncut stones have been introduced into the market, with wide variations in size and quality. According to e 12th World Wealth Report by Merrill Lynch & Capgemini, released in June 2008, the total wealth population in 2007 (individuals with more than US$1-million savings) was estimated to be 10.1 million worldwide, which is a 6% increase. e Japanese population accounts for 15% of the total, and has 1.51 million wealthy individuals, representing a 2.2% increase from the previous year.

Silver: Country Share % Spain 4.8 China 8.6 USA 32.4

Italy 14.2

Thailand 15.8

(Source: Japan Tariff Association)

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internationalfeature
Annual Income Per Household Group Definition
I $22,712 and below II $22,712 $33,599 III $33,599 $45,763 IV $45,763 $65,932 V $65,932 and above

The table above shows that households with higher incomes have the largest expenditure on jewellery. There is no specific age classification on this report, but group V can be assumed to include consumers in their 30s or older, based on estimated average income levels in the market. There has been an increasing number of travellers to Japan in the past three-four years, according to the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO). Over 8.3-million foreigners travelled to Japan in 2007. Wealthy consumers from China, Russia and the Middle East are observed to spend money shopping in the market. These travellers have also contributed to the sale of luxury products. The following are subsets of consumers with potential purchasing power: • Retiring baby boomers — the estimated number of baby boomers retiring in the next few years is over eight-million, a potential target for high-end and luxury products • Consumers in their 30s and 40s with higher incomes • Wealthy consumers, including foreign travellers to the market
C1193_Lotus_IceAd_CanJew:C1193_Lotus_IceAd_CanJew 7/2/09

Jewellery distribution channels are often highly segmented and differentiated by the type of product, such as whether they are finished jewellery products or raw materials (cut or uncut stones, or base metals) and pricing category. The Japanese distribution system typically is a multilayered one, with importers, distributors (primary and secondary), as well as regional wholesalers, which bring finished products to the retail channel. This has been changing with an increasing number of direct purchases (for example, without the middleman to lower the retail price). Small and medium-sized retailers or wholesalers, including many individually or family-owned, have an overwhelming share of the market; no single retailer or wholesaler dominates. Recently, there have been more consignment sales among retailers, which makes business for the distributors and wholesalers in the market more difficult to manage financially. However, many retailers do not handle imports directly, nor do they stock quantities of inventory. U.S. companies seeking representation in the market may want to locate an appropriate importer or specialized distributor who has a targeted sales channel. In many cases, distributors will seek exclusive rights to compensate for the risks they take in bringing a product to market. It might be difficult to find a distributor interested in taking on a jewellery brand if the products are already generally available online or on television shopping channels. [CJ]
9:23 AM Page 1

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For details, write #156 on Free Info Page, page 113

Radiant Ruby
Why the ruby is suddenly on everyone’s radar.
By The Canadian GemmoloGiCal a ssoCiaTion

U.S. Trade Embargo The U.S. government’s embargo on rubies and jadeite jade from Myanmar (formerly Burma) was intended to punish the ruling junta there, but those who are really hurt are the miners of these two gems that make the country so famous and, potentially, the industry as a whole. International demand for ruby and jade remains, but the embargo has brought about some interesting developments in the ruby trade. U.S. dealers who have inventory of jadeite or ruby from Myanmar are still permitted to sell the gems. Dealers outside the U.S. with existing inventory of jade and ruby are not permitted to export it into the U.S. This rule is not equitable, but trade regulations are rarely bilateral. Gem quality jadeite jade is found in very few places in the world, and if we want fine gem jadeite, we really rely on Myanmar alone. There are no viable alternatives for the quality that makes Burma jade so famous. How is this addressed in the jade trade? The demand for jadeite jade in the U.S. has never been great. There are American collectors, of course, but the market is far greater in Asian countries such as China and Japan. The jade industry will be able to carry on with minimal change in focus. The United States is a far larger market for ruby, and the embargo has prompted a demand from alternative sources.

Alternative Sources There are several well-known sources of ruby, and new sources are discovered every year. Myanmar is the most famous source of ruby, but fine ruby can be found in other countries, such as Vietnam and several African locations. True North Gems has mined ruby as close to Canada as Greenland. Some sources, such as Madagascar and Sri Lanka, are better known for sapphire, but also produce very attractive ruby. Indian ruby is large, opaque, and purplish in colour, but the country does produce decent stars. Vietnam produces some ruby of very fine colour and clarity, but it appears that the supply is sporadic. One of the really important alternative sources for ruby is Tanzania. Winza and other sources in Tanzania are producing ruby of exceptional colour. Tanzanian ruby is mostly noticeably included, but the colour makes up for it. Like Vietnamese ruby, much of the Tanzanian ruby has some blue zones, but these don’t distract too much from the overall appearance. Substantial blue zones in a ruby can make the gem look purple, but most of the Tanzanian ruby has a slight pinkish tint to it. Some African ruby has a tendency towards the orange, and this can detract from its desirability.

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gemfeature
In all, the best Tanzanian rubies display a very attractive red colour, with inclusions that may be visible to the eye, but are often not distracting. The inclusions are quite different in appearance from those seen in the heat-treated, borax flux healed Mong Hsu rubies from Myanmar, but are often equally visible to the eye. The most substantial difference between the Mong Hsu rubies and the Tanzanian rubies is that the Tanzanian rubies are usually not subject to heat treatment, although they can be. Treatments Heat treatment is a standard procedure for ruby, and can be detected by the presence of flux-healed fractures, dissolved rutile needles or exploded crystals. Tanzanian rubies tend to reveal crystals that are undamaged, and therefore cannot have been subject to standard heat treatment. One of the most prevalent treatments of ruby right now is glass filling. Glass filling of fractures and cavities in ruby has been carried out for many years, but in the past three years the practice has become widespread, with the quantity of glass involved sometimes surpassing the amount of ruby in a given specimen. Glass filling has become so prevalent, and the substantial amounts of glass so obvious that there is widespread discussion in the trade to establish terminology for the extent of glass in a gem. There are cases in which so much glass is used as a binding agent to hold unrelated fragments of ruby together that they CJAug09_emforium copy.pdf 1 are truly no longer ruby, but are better6/23/09 “assembled.” called 11:20 AM The majority of Tanzanian ruby is, by stark contrast, untreated. One similarity is areas of blue. The Tanzanian ruby can have small lines of blue colour tracing through the red gem, while the glass-filled ruby often has colourless fractures that are glass filled, but when tilted to a direction parallel to the fracture, show a flash of blue colour along the filled fracture. Glass filled ruby often originates from Africa, and when used to fill the need for ruby that is not from Myanmar, the treatment should be disclosed. The cost and value of this treated ruby should be substantially different from the untreated Tanzanian ruby. It is hard to predict when the U.S. will lift its ban, which, although imposed only in the U.S., trickles through the gem industry as a whole. One possible advantage is the resulting urgent exploration for alternative sources of ruby, but a disadvantage is that Myanmar really does produce very fine ruby, and a surge of glass-filled ruby to fill the void in the meantime is likely to prove damaging to the ruby trade as a whole. [CJ]
The Canadian Gemmological Association is an educational organization that provides training for both the professional gemmologist, and for the amateur. The Canadian Gemmological Association provides its students with the latest information on gemstone discoveries, synthetics and treatments.

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w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
august 2009

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CJ

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industrybuzz

JCK Las Vegas
May 29-June 2, 2009
Despite what’s going on around us, we packed our bags along with our fellow colleagues and headed to Sin City to report on the latest from the world of jewellery. A resounding success, the show was buzzing with excitment and attracted about 2,700 international and domestic manufacturers from all retail categories. We saw some old friends, and made some new ones. Check out our scrapbook from Vegas.

From left to right, top to bottom: 1. Eric Senftleben of Citizen Watch, Publisher Olivier Felicio and Kevin Kaye of Citizen Watch. 2. Gillian Pommerehn from Crosby Marketing Communications and Jody Christian, Marketing Director of Pandora Jewelry with Associate Editor Paul Aguirre. 3. Olivier Felicio with Ken Mulhall, Canadian Jewellers Association President & CEO. 4. Carol Besler and Greg Dowell, Cosmoda.

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For details, write #158 on Free Info Page, page 113.

industrybuzz

5. Olivier Felicio with the team behind Sanghavi Diamonds. 6. Brazil-based designer of Vianna jewellery Karla Antunes and Canadian representative Kathy Reilly with Olivier Felicio. 7. Natasha Rupani of Low Cost Leader with Paul Aguirre. 8. Saverio Folino and Carlo Scalzo from Diamond 2 Scalzo Bros. Inc.

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For details, write #159 on Free Info Page, page 113

Western Canadian Jewellery Expo
August 12 - 14, 2009 | Halls B & C | Shaw Conference Centre | Edmonton, AB
925 Solutions 509, 511 abemor.ca/Securehoop 801, 803 Allied Creations Inc 213 Allura International/IBB International 201, 203, 300, 302 Almar Jewellery 224 Ampra Jewelry 118 Arezzo Import Export 325, 424 Arms table A AV Diamonds Inc 104, 106, 108 B & S (Canada) Inc 316 Bell Diamonds International 621 Best Bargains 321, 420 Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg Ltd 209, 308 BK Jewellery 417, 419 Bulova Watch Co 101, 103, 200, 202 Butterfly Gem 125 CBE Inc 609, 611, 708, 710 Cadman Mfg Co Ltd 116 Canadian Jewellers Association table C Celebrity Watch International 613 Concept Marketing Inc 808 Corona Jewellery Co 401, 403, 405, 500, 502, 504 Courtney Gold Co 612 Crown Pearl 320 Custom Gold Mfg Ltd 513 Dian Creations 819 Diarough Canada Sales Inc/Uni-Design Canada Inc 721, 820 Embix Watch Importing Co. 225 Empress 100, 102 Euro Jewellery – NS CNC 324 Five Star Gold Inc 805, 807 Gee N’Gee Importers Ltd 517, 616 Gem Connection Ltd 413, 512 Gem Star Inc 525 Gemvision 211 Gilo Creations 608, 610 Gold-N-Diamonds Inc 717, 719, 816, 818 Greenwood General Insurance Agency Inc 205 IDD 712 IDI Design Group/Meira T Designs 119 Incom Technical Solutions Inc 720 Intermerge Canada Inc 114 International Gemological Institute (IGI) Corp 121 Ion-Ray Co Ltd/Q-Ray 725 Ital Can Inc 313, 412 Italgem Inc 317, 319, 416, 418 J Ifrah Ltd 519, 521, 618, 620 JW Findings & Stones/JW Histed Diamonds 701, 800 Jewel Trade 312 Jewelhouse Canada/EW Butch Cooper Agencies 617, 619 Jewellers Mutual Insurance Co table B Jewellers Vigilance Canada table D John’s Wholesale Jewelry Ltd 109-111, 113, 208, 210, 212 JSN Jewellery Inc 501, 503, 505, 600, 602, 604 Karat Imports Ltd 709, 711 Korite International 421, 520 Lotus Jewellery Ltd. 716 Luminar Creations Inc 120 Master Design Ltd 409, 411, 508, 510 Nuco Charms 310 Odyssey Time Inc 809, 811, 813 O’Neill Diamonds 117, 216, 218 On Tap Resources Ltd 810 Paragems Inc 220 Polar Ice & Polar Bear Diamond 601, 603, 605, 700, 702, 704 Polanti Watches Inc 718 Polypearl Canada Co 821 Praash Jewels Inc/Gemsparkle Ltd 625 Premier Pearl & Gem Co 724 Prestige Pak Inc 122, 124 Pristine Ice/Devine 112 Regal Imports Ltd 713, 812 RNB Jewellery 217, 219, 221 Rousseau Chain Ltd 815, 817 Royal Oxford 825A, 825, 823 Shiny Jewellers 309, 311, 408, 410 Signature Engraving Systems Inc 318 Silverman Chapman & Reese Consulting 824 SK Diamonds 703, 705, 802, 804 Sungems International (SGI) 301, 303, 305, 400, 402, 404 Tom Jewellery 516, 518 Vandan Associates Inc 425, 524 Waldman Diamond Canada Ltd 98, 99 Wittnauer International 105, 204 Zakarian Jewellery Inc 624 Zeghani 304

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124 224 225 324 325 425 525 625 725 823 220 320 321 421 521 621 721 719 717 818 816 820 619 718 716 617 720 519 517 616 618 620 419 518 516 417 319 317 416 418 318 316 420 520 218 216 217 219 221 821 819 817 815 212 213 312 313 413 513 613 611 609 511 509 608 610 612 411 510 508 409 311 410 408 309 310 308 211 209 412 512 210 208 712 710 708 713 711 709 812 810 808 813 811 809 807 204 205 304 302 300 301 401 400 500 303 402 403 502 305 404 203 201 504 202 200 405 505 503 501 604 602 600 605 603 601 704 702 700 705 703 701 804 802 800 805 803 801 824 724 624 424 524

125

825A

825

122

120

121

118

119

116

117

114

112

113

110

111

108

109

106

104

105

99

103

98

101

102

100 801A TABLE A TABLE B TABLE C TABLE D

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ENTRANCE

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Expo Prestige
August 23 - 25, 2009 | Place Forzani | Laval, QC
Adora 105 Alpine 305 Amore & Baci 611 Angelle & Cie 333 Aquaseal 515 Aquegem 237 Arch Crown 305 Aréli Ltée 205 Arezzo Import Export Inc 710 Axcent 427 Azur 605 BK Jewellery 311 Banda 111 Barcelona-Bijoux Acier 222 Begli 219 Benjamin 115 Bergeon 305 Best Bargains 500 Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg 433 B Fly 610 Biarritz 527 Bijouterie Almar Inc 733 Bijouterie J Ifrah Ltée 327 Bijoux La Scala 214 Bijoux RNB 718 Boccia 427 Bulova 121 Bucsh 305 Butterfly Gem 610 Canadian Jeweller Magazine 129 Caprice 527 Cerres 305 Cardinal 527 Christian Bourdin Enterprises 213 Citadel 527 CL 605 Collection Papillon Gemme Inc 610 Columbia 726 Continental Geneve 127 Corona Jewellery Co 615 Québec Jewellers’ Corp AGoRA Création Le Grenier Ltée 333 Créations Malo Inc 105 Créations RNB 718 Creed Canada 214 Crown Pearl 825 Crystal World 214 Danish Design 127 Diamants En Fête 615 Diamond Days 615 Diarough Canada 627 Dumont 305 École De Gemmologie De Montréal 823 Élite 527 Embix Cie D’Importation De Montres 127 Émotion 619 Energizer Batteries 111 Entreprises Albert Baho Inc 228 Entreprises SHA Inc 305 Epos 127 Ève 411 Fascini 527 Five Star Gold Inc 611 Flair 515 Flica 219 Foredom 305 Forever Jewellery 319 Frank Lloyd Wright 121 Froidveaux 305 Gemoro 305 Gilles Maynard Inc 605 Goldmaster 726 Grobet 305 Guess 305, 511 Harley Davidson 121 Hermle 305 Hortec 305 Ifrah 327 ID X Change 526 Importation Robert Beaulne Inc 220 Infinity Titanium 526 Ital-Can Inc 505 Italgem Inc 526 Jacques Benjamin 115 Jean Michel 305 Jewellers Vigilance Canada 1022 Jewellery Business Magazine 923 JSN Jewellery Inc 319 Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery Canada 533 L&R 305 L’orée Du Fleuve 222 La Bréa International Inc 427 Lady Dream 311 Larimar 214 Larus Inc 223 Lego 127 Libman & Co Ltd 726 222 Lotus - Montres Lumani 327 Mabensa Inc 227 Manufacture De Bijoux Gaby Inc 300 Maple Leaf Diamonds 615 Marc Ecko 511 Martin Ross Group Inc 512 Maxell 305 Meira T Designs/IDI Design Group 700 Melville Manor 133 Michel Herbelin 327 Milanor Inc 633 Miss Sixty 427 Momodesign Watches 727 Monnaire Royale Canadienne 127 Morellato Nautica (Montres) Nina Ricci Noble Gift Packaging orient Paj Canada Inc/Elle Jewellery Pandora Jewelry Papillon Gemme Paragems Inc Pfingst Philtzcraft Clocks Prestige Prestige-Pak Inc Promo Inc Q & Q Watches RMR Inc RNB Jewellery Romanson Reliable Watch Materials Renata Rocar Rodanex Rodania Canada Inc Rodastar Rosah Royal Canadian Mint Royal Chain Royal oxford SK Diamonds USA Shiny Jewellers Silver & Co Sony Batteries Steelx Storm London Studex Sun Gems - Diamant Canadian Swank Swiss Chic Syndicate Designs Tech-Emotion Inc Tecnigold Tedora - Italy Teno TFX Thomas Sabo Time Force Timex Canada Inc Tom Jewellery Trofish Wenger’s Ltée Wittnauer International Vigor Yuno Zeghani By Simon Zippo Zoppini Canada 327 511 214 133 527 119 705 610 413 305 121 105 600 211 111 411 718 127 305 111, 305 515 515 515 515 233 127 505 727 405 233 415 527 427 127 305 222 527 515 726 619 233 223 327 121 327 127 305, 511 311 127 527 121 305 427 704 305 327

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showguide

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Collections by JCK
August 30 - 31, 2009 | West Exhibit Hall A | Vancouver Convention Centre | Vancouver, BC
3DTechnics Allied Creations Almer Jewellery Atlantic Engraving Inc B & S Canada BH Multicom BK Jewellery Bell Diamonds International Belle Brooke Designs Inc Besh Distributing Best Bargains Beverly Hills Jewellers Manufacturing Bob Jeffs Canadian Jeweller (CJ) Magazine Canadian Noble House Ltd Ceylon Gems/Baza Gems Corona Jewellery Company Creative Gems Inc Diamond Trading Co Diamplus Dian Creations Flica Inc Gee ‘n Gee Importers Ltd Gem Connection Gemological Institute of America GemVision Corporation Gold-N-Diamonds Inc Greenwood General Insurance Agency Inc IDD IDI Design Group/Designs by Meira T IGI Ital-Can Inc JW Findings & Stones Ltd 714 1032 1024 1011 905 1112 1001 1013 1031 1035 729 1005 1125 1239 908 1128 1000 924 1113 904 1104 917 816 1124 708 716 1017 825 1006 928 907 813 925 Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company Jewelhouse Canada Jewellery Business John’s Wholesale Jewelry Ltd Jordan Scott Designs Ltd/Plaza Group JSN Jewellery Inc KABANA Karat Group Ltd LaPerle Arina Lotus Jewellery Ltd Maskwa Oteh Diamonds Inc Nicole Miller Fine Jewelry Noble Gift Packaging Nuco Charms Inc PAJ Canada Pandora Jewelry Paramount Gems Prestige Pak Inc Rebecca Sareen Jewelry Shiny Jewellers Sholdt Design Signature Engraving Systems Inc SK Diamonds Spectrum Imports The China Design Company (HK) Ltd The Trendy Group Waldman Diamond Canada Ltd World Trade Jewelers Zambia Association AG Zarlene Imports Inc Zeghani by Simon G 1206 1140 839 817 1039 901 1008 1228 933 1108 1029 929 1101 906 1107 900 910 1025 930 1033 1117 1037 921 913 1141 932 829 1120 929 B 1131 1129 812

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JCK Toronto
September 13 - 15, 2009 | South Building | Metro Toronto Convention Centre | Toronto, ON
AV Diamonds/Price Point Leader Abbasi Inc Access Security Products Ltd Accudiam Inc Advanced Computing Edge Ltd AF Design Inc Alfred Sung Watches Almar Jewellery Mfg Almer Jewellery Americas Gold Amipi Inc Ampra International Inc Anatoli Inc Arezzo Import Export Inc BH Multicom BK Jewellery Bagatelle Marketing Belair Time Corp Besh Distributing Best Bargains Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg Butterfly Gem CA Links Inc Christian Bourdin Enterprises Canadian Gem (Gemperle) Canadian Gemmological Association Canadian Jeweller Magazine Canadian Jewellers Association Carmen Jewellery Inc Chain Hoop LLC Creative Gems Inc Creed Canada Delcam Designs Unlimited Diamplus Diamport Corp Embassy of Indonesia Commercial Trade EMBIX Watch Co Emforium Group Inc ERL Diamonds Inc Eternal Diamonds 1125 934 1225 912 1325 1216 707 629 1136 1143 719 833 740 919 723 607 1334 1236 748 1327 1014 937 619 836 1007 1307 1317 1314 1118 932 1019 736 917 10 1017 1015 529 1040 634 716 1110 Eugene Gem Inc European Gemological Laboratory Fable Designs FINTRAC Five Star Gold Inc Flica Inc Franco Creations Gainerie 91 Gee N’ Gee Importers Ltd Gem Scan International Inc Gemsparkle Ltd GemVision Corporation George Brown College Gilo Creations Girmal Inc GM Gold & Diamonds Gold & Silver House Ltd Gold-N-Diamonds Inc HL Mfg Inc HYC Design Inc Icetime International IDD IDI Design Group/Designs by Meira T IGI India Gems Ion-Ray Co Ltd/Q-Ray Ital-Can Inc Italgem Inc JK Designs Jewel of Scandinavia Inc Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co Jewellers Vigilance Canada Jewellery Business Jewelry Land Jordan Scott Designs Ltd/Plaza Group JSN Jewellery Inc Kabana Kev Diamonds Inc Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery Legrand Jewellery Co Ltd Lisa Ridout Exclusive Jewellery 640 1305 1213 1420 1029 807 914 1018 718 910 819 1422 1409 818 1418 625 622 1129 737 747 1237 1303 813 1011 636 822 821 1114 1215 828 8 1315 1321 829 750 1107 816 612 507 1117 741 Livingstone Jewelry Co Inc 541 Lotus Jewellery Ltd 717 Makur Designs Inc 1037 Maskwa Oteh Diamonds Inc 13 Metallic Evolution 749 Nipach Displays 9 Noble Gift Packaging 1217 Nouvo Mode International 713 On Tap Resources Ltd 1137 PAJ Canada 618 Pandora Jewelry 1207 Paragems Inc 1119 Pearl Gallery North America Inc 916 Prestige Pak Inc 925 Rand and Paseka 837 Rebeau Jewellery HK Ltd 915 Ritone (Canada) Ltd 814 729 RNB Jewellery Royal Nepal Handicraft 11 Royal Oxford Inc 1141 Sakura Bijou 642 Schindler Technologies/Solidscape 1421 Shiny Jewellers 1021 Signature Engraving Systems Inc 715 Silver Trendz 815 Silverman, Chapman & Reese Consulting 635 Simplex Diam Inc 1028 SK Diamonds 1113 St Eligius Jewellers 721 Standout Design 1036 The China Design Company (HK) Ltd 744 The Nirvana Group 1132 The Trendy Group 817 Traders Jewellery Corp 1128 United Precious Metals 732 Vivian Jewelry 840 World’s Gold & Diamonds 1229 Zeghani by Simon G 811 Zinzi Jewels 745 Zoppini Canada 907

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september 13 – 15, 2009 w METRo ToRonTo ConvEnTion CEnTRE w ToRonTo, CAnAdA

discover JcK ToronTo.
Connect with Canada’s most-celebrated jewellery event of the year – JCK Toronto. All the excitement and prestige of an official JCK event, with a keen business focus on Eastern Canada’s jewellery marketplace. Join us for three days of discovering, learning, buying, selling and networking with the most influential jewellery professionals in the business. Witness the very latest fashion-forward trends in fine jewellery, diamonds, gemstones and timepieces — all right here, at the very best buying season, just in time for the holidays. JCK Toronto, where the Canadian jewellery industry comes to shine.

REgisTER AT www.JCKtoronto.CA oR CAll 800-346-8372 oR 416-756-0303.

source code: Ad3

charm image used with permission by Pandora Jewelry, U.s. Pat. no. 7,007,507

For details, write #160 on Free Info Page, page 113.

Fashion Forward. Business Focused.

PAGE

113

GET FREE INFORMATION!
1. See product you want info on 2. Use this quick reference list below to find its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

on any product advertised in this issue

SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

sectionhead

BY FAX OR MAIL CONNECT WITH…

3. Write the number(s) on the attached free info card

4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392

5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like

page
2 3 4-5 6 7 8 9 11 13 15 16 16 16 16 17 18 18 18 18 19 20 20 20 20 21 21 21 21 23 25 27 29

write #
101 102 103 104 105 106 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131

CONNECT WITH…
Rousseau Chain Imports MCD Pearl Imports Mirko Engravings Ltd. O’Neill Diamonds Inc. Ambermart Thomas Sabo Sterling Silver Boma Jewelry For Life Pandora Thomas Sabo Nova Diamonds Inc. Maskwa Oteh Diamonds Inc. Zeghani By Simon Diarough Bulova Optimum Importation Frey Wille Wenger’s Cardinal The Trendy Group Best Bargains Diamond 2 Scalzo Bros. Inc. Optimum Importation Bernd Wolf Sanghavi Diamonds Inc. Inkas A.V. Diamonds Noble Lotus Emforium Gem & Jewellery Export Promo Council (GJECP) Open Blue Networks Reed Exhibitions Corporation des Bijoutiers du Quebec Jomark Mirage Creations

page
30 30 32 33 36 37 40 41 45 53 57 59 61 65 79 71 72 73 77 79 85 88 89 95 97 99 101 103 112 117 123 124

write #
132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163

Siffari Sapir Diamonds Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company CMP Asia Stuller JSN Jewellery JSN Jewellery Charriol CGM Gee’N Gee Importers Gee’N Gee Importers Muehle-Glasheutte Canada CGM Siffari GS Laboratories JSN Jewellery Atlantic Engravings Jewelers Mutual Pandora Atlantic Engravings Charriol Mirage/Nova Stuller Diarough Canada Jomark - Le Gi GJEPC GS Laboratories Vienna Five Star Diamond Vienna Muehle-Glasheutte Canada House of Jewellery

 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine
STEP 1 STEP 2

*FREE
Example

Info Card & Subscription
To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.

 No, don’t send
Selling area of your store  under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume  under $500,000  $500,000 - $1 million  $1 million - $5 million  $5 million - $10 million  $10 million - $20 million  over $20 million Categories you personally manage  Retailer  Designer  Gemologist  Supplier  Manufacturer  Other _________________________________

To qualify, check circles:

Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________ Company Name: ___________________________________________________________ Address: _________________________________________________________________ City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________ Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________ Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________ Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________
STEP 3

Which category best describes your business classification?  Education  Retailer  Manufacturer  Wholesaler  Importer  Designer  Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)  Other: ________________________________ Number of employees at your location  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13 Number of locations: ______________________

Reserved exclusively for retailers

AUGUST 2009 WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON
USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

101

STEP 4

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8
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AUGUST 2009

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showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Cadman DEC POS SYSTEM THAT 11/25/08 4:48 JEWELLERYCJ REV.showcase:Layout 1 DELIVERS!

PM

Page 1

• Commissions, Special Orders, Repairs, Layaways • Customer Loyalty Programs, Gift Cards • Integrated Credit and Debit Processing • Links to QuickBooks or Simply Accounting

Complete Jewellery POS System
POS Computer, 17” LCD Monitor, POS Printer, Cash Drawer, Laser Scanner, Jewellery Label Printer, Magnetic Card Reader, Software and Training
*With this ad. Limited time offer.

$3,975*

Jewellery Labeling System
Label Printer and Software designed for jewellery labels $1,175*
LS R LABE ST 7890 TE3456FO 123345
12

1000

T2T1

$1,175 CK
LA

.00

www.aceretail.com 1-888-810-9395

www.carlobiagi.com

813-448-9660
CJ0809

Arsic Jewelry & Watch Inc.
355 St. Andrew Street West Fergus, ON N1M 1P1 Phone: 519-787-8080 arsicjewelry@bellnet.ca

Zoran Arsic is a 35 year veteran of watch repair. Certified to repair: Cartier • IWC Schaffhausen Jaeger Le Coultre • Piaget Vacheron Constantin • Rolex Baume & Mercier • Panerai When you need repairs or restoration work that you would not trust with just anyone, trust Zoran Arsic, your personal expert, with fair prices and long lasting guarantees.

Made in Canada!

Vibrant! Wonderful!

Courtland, Ontario, Canada N0J 1E0 1-800-265-5790 F 1-888-509-2184 e-mail orders@cadmanmfg.com

CADMAN Mfg. Co. Ltd.

800.962.3119

Best Lightboxes Made - Guaranteed Printers of duratrans and other print solutions
Untitled-2 1

Large Gallery of Artwork on Website to Create a Custom Graphic Enterprise Solution available for brands interested in distributing signage to retailers

www.duratran.com

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For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. MCD Showcase:Layout 1 2/25/09 10:34 AM Page 1

MCD Pearl Imports
A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery. 27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6 T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426 Email info@mcdpearls.com

109-302 carlaw ave. toronto on. m4m 3l1

www.nic-objects.com

we make cad/cnc this easy: 1 2 3

contact@nic-objects.com

studio: (416) 652 3739

you send us artwork or other inspiration

we create a 3d model to your specifications

we ship your wax or metal prototype

More than 12,000 styles to choose from.

for

-All designs available as casting, semi-mount, or completely finished with diamonds and gemstone -More catalogues available for best line of bridals and ring mounts
READY MOUNTS Inc. 215 Victoria St. Suite B-3, Toronto, On. M5B-1T9 Tel: 416-366-4046 Fax: 416-366-5162 Toll Free: 1-877-365-5552 E-mail: info@readymounts.com For your Free Catalogue fax or e-mail your request See us at: www.readymounts.com
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For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1

A D V E R T I S I N G
3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1

IN YOUR NAME

JEWELLERY REPAIR E N V E L O P E
LOWEST

LASERMAN-500

High precision ND: Yag Welding system
Developed in particular for goldsmiths and dental industry for welding and repairs of both large and small workshops. The design of this unit has taken into account the necessary, precision, easiness of use, reduced maintenance and long-lasting duration of the lamp allow a high productive efficiency, so that work can be carried out better and in full safety. The machine can be used by an operator with limited experience.

Characteristics:

• 250 programmable parameters • 6 language display, ENG, FRA, ESP, ITA, POR, TUR • Programmable reference pulse shape with controlled current PWM (Improvement of lamp life) • High quality stereoscopic microscope with UV ray and laser radiation protection for the eyes which can be connected into video camara • Graphic display with all working parameters • Self diagnostic and self-testing system • Double lighting (neon + diode) • Inert gas (Argon) nozzle to prevent oxidation on weleding points • Air nozzle for cooling pieces in the working chamber • Fast setting and change of working parameters through mouse • Spot diameter, 0.1mm to 2,00mm, with continous power output

DESIGN N O I N TO YOUR OWN WISHES ALL PRINTING STEPS F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9 INCLUDED s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m

C A N

1 - 800 661- 4410

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PRICES

D A

pure beauty has a name...

Functions:

• Repair of damaged or worn settings without removing the stones • Repair of molten pieces and surface defects • Repair of heat-sensitive pieces • Connection of different metals • Welding of special chains, assembly of particular components • Welding alloy frames and joints of dental Stock Number: 5403700 Power: 100J 7.5 KW 60 W 230 V, X1, 50/60HZ, 8AMP, 1.5KW

Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.
Vancouver, B.C.
Online inventory

1-800-663-1458 www.jwdiamonds.ca
All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

OUTILLAGES ET MACHINERIES POUR BIJOUTERIE / COMPLETE LINE OF JEWELRY SUPPLIES
T. 514-393-8665 FREE 1-888-955-8665 F. 514-393-1457 E. sassounian@bellnet.ca WWW. SASSOUNIANTOOLS.COM
1255 PHILLIPS SQUARE #208, MONTRÉAL, QC. H3B 3G1

Somal Watches Clocks Parts & Tools Supply
00P 45.00/5 tals $1 l Crys Pcs ) inera s 032-50 /500Pc rman M 170.00 /2016/2025/2 lat Ge $ F  y Pkg /379/395 rted Batter 1 s Asso Maxell 4-100Pcs 37 /100Pc  6 $99.00 /3 ns (377 Pcs Studio Publicity ad Final May 5th.indd o Crow .00/30 e Seik ts $99 Genuin vemen  h Mo r Watc Popula

SOMAL
IMPORT
TEL. 905-79

MIYOTA•ETA•RONDA•BERGEON•SE•FE•MAXELL•PANASONIC•SEIKO•CITIZEN orted cs Ass

John’s Wholesale Jewelry Ltd.
MANUFACTURERS & WHOLESALERS OF FINE JEWELRY

1

ed! leas t Re Jus ask for our fantastic Volume 15 Sterling Silver catalogue

ERS, EXP PLY AL (CAN ORTERS #37, 30 ADA) INC. Interm & WH 0 2188, OLESAL 1-888- odal Drive, Bramp www.somalc SOMAL 99 ton, ERS FAX. 905-59 Ontario L6T anada.com 5K1 Canad 5 0166, E-mail : watchparts@ 1-877-SOMA a somalcanad L 77 a.com

WATCHE S CLO SOMAL CKS PARTS & INTERNA TION TOOLS SUP

30 Intermodal Dr. Unit #37, Brampton, ON L6T 5K1

Tel : 905-790-2188 FAX: 905-595-0166
Toll Free: Tel:

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1-888-SOMAL 99 FAX: 1-877-SOMAL 77

Valid while quantity last

tel: 604-689-4190 fax: 604-689-4139 toll free: 1-877-80-JOHNS toll free fax: 1-888-564-6788 address: 900-736 Granville Street, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1G3

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39e édition • 39th edition

AU SERVICE DE L’INDUSTRIE DE LA BIJOUTERIE

Salle d'exposition moderne ayant 1 200 places de stationnement gratuit, plusieurs hôtels à proximité. Un service de navettes vers le Salon du cadeau. Modern Exhibition Hall with 1200 free parking spaces. Several Hôtels at proximity. A Shuttle service to the Montreal Gift Show.

SERVING THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

23 au 25 août 2009 | Place Forzani, 4855, rue Louis-B.-Mayer, Laval
Venez découvrir la 39e édition du plus prestigieux et important salon de la bijouterie au Canada. Un rendez-vous essentiel où vous seront révélées les toutes nouvelles tendances.

August 23 to 25, 2009 | Place Forzani, 4855 Louis-B.-Mayer Street, Laval
Discover the 39th edition of the most prestigious and important Jewellery Trade Show in Canada. An essential rendez-vous with all the latest trends.
For details, write #161 on Free Info Page, page 113

Pour plus d’information / For further information 868, rue Brissette, Sainte-Julie (Québec) J3E 2B1 Tél. : 514 485-3333 • Fax : 450 649-8984 E-mail : info@cbq.qc.ca • www.cbq.qc.ca

À votre service depuis plus de 56 ans! • At your service for more than 56 years!

marketplace
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

A B
Plastic Injectors
New & Used
Tel: (514) 737-1660 Fax: (514) 737-9335

A.B. MACHINERY
PULSE POINT STUDIO 60 STUDIO 30 LASER WELDERS New & Used machinery and equipment for jewellers BUY - SELL - TRADE

www.abmachinery.com
Toll Free: (888) 901-8888 Email: alex@abmachinery.com

• GOLD • YELLOW • WHITE 55 Richmond Street West • PINK oronto ON M5V 3B1 • GREEN (416) 203-6737 x 317 • STERLING (416) 203-1318 • BRONZE

INTERNATIONAL INC Sheppard To: Gail Company: CGA CASTING SINCE 1986 Email: info@canadiangemmological.com Phone: 416-785-0962 From: Kathy Toufighi athy@style.ca Pages: 1 ww.canadianjeweller.com CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384 Date: Oct. 31, 2006 Phone: 514-845-5384 alloyco@alloyco.com www.alloyco.com 55 Mont-Royal W., Suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada H2T 2S6 Space: Mrkplc proof in Buyers’ Guide

• • • • • • •

PALADIUM PLATINUM SILVADIUM STEEL PRESET MOLDS ALLOYS

ALLOYCO

Urgent ad proof!

Please view your ad and fax back with your approval ASAP.
Date:

Edmonton Findings House Ltd.
Watch and Jewelery Supplies Clock and Watch Movements All Kinds of Batteries & Watch Crystals Wax Patterns, Gem Stones, & Findings Packaging, Bags, Boxes & Displays
10524 - 124 St. Edmonton, Alberta Canada T5N 1R9

Ph: (780) 452-8693 Fax: (780) 452-8693 Website: www.efjewelrysupply.com Email: efhouse@hotmail.com

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marketplace
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.
ASSAYING • REFINING • • NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES

>>www.gemvision.com

PRECIOUS METALS DEALER

got mill?
Shele Letwin Ph: 866.299.1702

LET US EARN YOUR TRUST
Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111 21 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email: info@xau.ca

• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE

Web: www.xau.ca

The New Revo540C Dual-SpiNDle MilliNg SySTeM

GV Design Canada GemVision - “We will show you how.”

Your Total Source of Quality Tools & Equipment
317 Attwell Drive, Toronto, Ontario M9W 5C1
Telephone: 416-675-9171 Toll Free : 800-263-6106 24 hr Fax : 888-269-0106

www.gesswein.com
email: sales@gessweincanada

GOLD DEPOT
PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN, IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM

Available for Immediate Delivery
All Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined

Call our Hotline for Prices: 416-366-GOLD (4653)
Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 • Fax: 416-366-3499 27 Queen Street East, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario

Golden Gems Canada Inc.
All Kinds of Coloured Gemstones

elding Laser W ice Serv

offer Now we

ELIABLE FAST & R ICE SERV
21 Dundas Square, Suite 412 Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 P: 416-368-2991 F: 416-368-6069

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A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Smelting Marketplace REVad:Layout 1

5/5/09 7:52 PM Page H & W PERRIN Co. Ltd 1

Canada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials

COM WATCH ING SOON: GLASS C UTTING

PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and a deep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers

JUST ARRIVED! JEWELLERY BOXES AND DISPLAYS
VIEW OUR SELECTION ONLINE

We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.

If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!
PHONE: FAX:
12/10/08 6:52 PM (416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117 (416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139

A long standing tradition of service since 1929.

� sales@perrin.on.ca
Page 1

A leader in the Canadian Jewellery Industry since 1914
1-800-263-1669 905 475-9566
Part of the Umicore Group

FOIL BACKS, SYNTHETICS GENUINES, MARCASITES PEARLS/SEED PEARLS BEADS/BEAD STRANDS ROSE CUT GARNETS CONCAVE CUT MYSTIC TOPAZ, ONYX, RUBIES, SAPPHIRES, EMERALDS, CAMEOS AND MORE VOLUME DISCOUNTS

-WEDDING BANDS -MOUNTS -TENNIS MOUNTS -RINGS, CHARMS -BANGLES, BRACELETS -PLATINUM JEWELLERY -CHAINS -ITALIAN JEWELLERY -FINDINGS -TITANIUM & TUNGSTEEN JEWELLERY

SERVICE WITH RESPECT

www.imperialproducts.com

9

10:31 AM

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LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.
• Cutters of Rough Diamonds • Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes • Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds
21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7 Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883 email: lala.diamond@hotmail.com

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"
Refining - Assaying - Trading Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

MOISSANITE CANADA
Reflect the brilliance of your life

~
With more brilliance and luster than any popular gemstone including diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald no other gemstone or jewel compares to Moissanite. Tel: 416-366-7295 Fax: 416-366-3966 215 Victoria St, Suite 201 Toronto ON M5B 2T9

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine
Web:www.refinegold.ca www.goldrefiner.ca E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com

Check for our refining specials and alloy products www.refinegold.ca At: and www.goldrefiner.ca

Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371
359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

~

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A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Restringing Centre Inc.
All expert pearl restringing done on our premises to our loyal customers since 1980 • Wholesaler of pearl jewellery and 14kt gold diamond clasps.
55 Queen Street East Suite 1402 Toronto, ON M5C 1R6 Canada Tel: 416-368-9632 Fax: 416-368-1833 Toll Free: 1-866-997-9943 restringcentre@bellnet.ca

The Diamonds You Need.
In Stock. Overnight.

classified
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

We carry finely cut diamonds ranging from .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of shapes including round brilliant, princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart, pear, marquise and oval.
Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.

Selection, Service and Value
a family tradition since 1955
www.wmolldiamonds.com
Phone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738 Company: 21 Dundas Square, SuiteOmni Jewelcrafters1B7 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B

Urgent ad proof!
Rob rob@omnijewelcrafters.com Christine Ager Smyth 1 May 28th, 2009 Proof 1 classy ad single

assifed

6/10/09

LINES WANTED 4:12 PM Page 1 Toronto ON M4W 3B8 QUEBEC, EXPERIENCED AND WELL CONNECTED SALES Tel: 416-203-7900 Ext. 6110 REP/AGENT IS LOOKING FOR LUXURY FASHION SWAROUSKI Fax: 416-703-6392 COLLECTION + BRIDAL DIAMONDS PRODUCTS + AFFORDABLE WATCH LINE WITH MERCHANDISING MATERIAL. production@rivegauchemedia.com • ckavantage@hotmail.com CLAUDE • 418.208.0741 www.canadianjeweller.com

60 Bloor Street West Suite 1106

To:

Sales Agents Wanted Seeking well established sales agents to carry a variety A D V E GBA Page I class.:Layout 1 T 1 Jakob Bauer new classified.qxd:Layout 1 6/2/09 2:23 PMRmarketing S I N G 3/24/09 2:35 PM of retail product including an exciting new line of charm jewelry to Jewelers across Canada. For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine Please forward resume by fax 416.422.0290 please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. or by email sales@perrin.on.ca

Please view your ad and fax back with your approval ASAP.
German Goldsmith looking for work anywhere in Canada (full or part time). I work directly in the metal using techniques like: filing, PM Page 1 chasing, soldering, cutting, inlaying, bending, riveting, also helping customers and designing jewellery. For more information or resume contact Jakob at 778-828-2335.
SERVICES

classified

Email: From: Pages: Date: Space:

Page 1

Signature: SALE SAFE FOR
Jewellery safe for sale. Rated to $1 million, with double combination digital lock. Ltd. classified:Layout 1 6/19/09 1:13 Dimensions: 30" wide x 48" high x 31" deep. Original price $6,000. Actual size Sale price $3,400 plus moving costs. Call 416.318.8698.

Date:

OWN YOUR OWN RECESSION RESISTANT FRANCHISE!
World’s Largest Jewellery and Watch Repair Franchise is Looking to Expand in a Mall Near You. Make money for yourself and take control of your future!
• High Traffic Locations • Extremely High Gross Margins • Low Inventory Costs • 25 Year Proven Record • Full Training, No Exp Nec.

tima 2008

FOR SALE

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES

AGENTS/ REPS WANTED

AGENTS/REPS WANTED
Innovative Jewellery Company is seeking an experienced professional salesperson with a strong following among the major retailers and jewellery chain stores. Call Rob at 1-877-640-0850. Email gjs-sales@canada.com.

We are looking to purchase non-mail jewellery locations. Preference will be given to high-visibility locations. We will acquire your inventory, leaseholds and lease. We pay top dollar. Please contact in full confidence, jack@omnijewelcrafters.com

STORES WANTED

WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY! (800) 359-0407 www.fastfix.com
j u n e / j u ly 2 0 0 9

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CJ

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SpaniSh artiSt and painter pablo picaSSo once Said:


CJ

Through

Aptly titled “It’s A Boy,” we were taken aback by this stunning neckpiece by world-renowned Mexican jewellery makers Sabido & Basteris. It represents the moment of conception with dyed, knitted silver in three colours (yellow, orange, red) symbolizing the uterus and silver pieces spelling out XY, the chromosome markup for a male. They also cultivated coin pearls to represent an egg and sperm — mesmerizing once one uncovers the concept. Any woman who dons it will be sure to make it known she’s the boss. With a successful launch in the US in Spring 2009, we’re happy to bring you a first look at this collection before it hits the Canadian market. Retails at $7,500 USD.
– Paul Aguirre

art we express our conception of what nature is not. ”

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august 2009

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For details, write #162 on Free Info Page, page 113

Mirage Creations Inc. 221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4 Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677 www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com

For details, write #163 on Free Info Page, page 113

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