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Published by: Jim on Apr 25, 2008
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial


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Technical Art by Fred Wolff

HE FRINGE BENEFITS of owning your own golf cart are many, particularly when it's a cart which is small enough to tote and store in the trunk of your car. Here it can stay along with your clubs from weekend to weekend; there's no waiting to rent a cart when you get to the clubhouse and, being a one seater, it's a lot easier to handle and operate than its big brother. You can play two rounds of 18 holes on a 2-qt. tank of gas. It weighs approximately 65 lbs. but breaks down into three lightweight sections, so it's no hefty thing to lift in and out of the trunk. You can build this cart for about $140 (less if you can do your own welding) from standard go-kart parts and odds and ends around your shop. If you have an old lawnmower engine, it will cost you still 176


less. It's powered by a 3-hp gasoline engine which is fitted with an oversize muffler to reduce noise to a minimum. You start it with a conventional cord and stop it with a pushbutton switch. To tote it you detach the hinged seat and pull off the front wheel assembly by removing three wingnuts. A bracket in front holds your golf bag, and a receptacle on the steering post keeps extra balls, score card and tees handy. To build the cart you start with the frame. This is bent from 7/8-in. airplane tubing, using a regular pipe bender. The frame measures 16 in. wide and 39-1/2 in. long, and turns up at the front at a 60° angle for a distance of 11 in. Cross braces are welded to the side members at each end of the engine compartment, then one is added up the middle to brace the floor and footboard, and finally two short braces

CART COMES APART in three lightweight sections in order to fit easily in trunk of the average-size car

are welded at a point where the frame bends upward. Next a 1/8 x 9-1/2 x 10-1/2-in. steel engine-mounting plate is welded to the frame just back and to one side of the second cross brace. This is drilled to suit the mounting holes in the engine. Four 2-in. lengths of angle iron are added to the corners of the frame, 1/2 in. in each way, for attaching the plywood engine hood. These are drilled for machine screws and spot-welded on end. Next, two bearing flanges for the axle are welded to each side of the frame 6 in. from the end. The floor is decked with
FLIP-OPEN TOP of engine compartment makes it easy to add fuel and to service the drive mechanism

aluminum plate and attached to the frame with Pop rivets, after which black rubber stair tread is cemented to the aluminum. The fork for the front-wheel steering post is a 6-in. length of 7/8-in. i.d. tubing which is welded to a 1/8-in. steel mounting plate. This plate is drilled for three mounting bolts which project through the frame. The heads are spot-welded in place and the bolts are fitted with wingnuts. This plate is what holds the frontCLOSEUP VIEW of clutch and chain drive. Note muffler of pilot model which extends outward at rear

JUNE 1969


wheel assembly to the rest of the cart. The steering post is permanently positioned in the fork by two washers which, when welded to the post at the top and bottom of the fork, form bearing shoulders. The wheel yoke is bent from tubing to accommodate the wheel and then is welded to two short sleeves which hold an 8-in. axle. Spacers 1-in. long are necessary on each side of the wheel. Cross bolts through the sleeves and axle lock the latter in place. Self-tapping sheet-metal screws are used to pivot the golf-bag bracket to the wheel yoke. A second screw on each side of the yoke serves as a stop for the bracket. Now you install the engine, line up the pulley-sprocket-clutch-brake assembly and rig the gas and brake pedals. A flexible cable runs from the gas pedal to the engine. After a trial spin to check out performance, the two-section compartment is built around the engine as shown. The flip-up, lift-off seat section is hinged with specially formed hinges. The barrel of one hinge leaf is opened into a hook to engage a pin left in the other leaf. Be sure to add sufficient cutouts in the front and sides of the seat section to cool the engine, A comfortable cushion is made by padding a piece of plywood with 4 in. of foam rubber and covering it with vinyl. Two bolts first placed in the plywood are used to attach the seat to the top of the compartment. ***

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