P-51 D NORTH AMERICAN MUSTANG 361 FIGHTER GROUP1/32 SCALE P-51 D MUSTANG ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTION The proposed P-51 D Mustang model is comparatively easy to be build but its high level of similarity to the real aircraft requires special attention and high precision during the assembly process. Study carefully the illustrative drawings, cutouts and present instruction before starting the work on the model. Try to imagine the separate assembly phases and the purpose of each detail. ‘After the acquaintance with the model, you may start the assemblage. Follow the sequence given in the instruction. Cut the necessary details shortly before using them in order to avoid possible mistakes. Score all fold lines before cutting the details. The places of scoring are marked with small thin lines on the continuation of fold lines outside the parts. The small red line markings show where to make cuts on the wing-fuselage joint cowlings. Do not be in a hurry with gluing - carefully check and shape the details until obtaining the exact and correct fit. Before starting the work get hold of the necessary tools: scissors, sharp modeling knife, blunt knife for scoring the fold lines, prickle, ruler, nippers and grinding paper. Additional materials necessary for the assemblage are: sheet of cardboard with thickness approximately 0.5 mm, a piece of wire with diameter 0.5 - 0.8 mm. Supply with proper glue. BISON Clear Adhesive, UHU or similar are recommended as the most appropriate ones. Water based glue is not recommended, Preparation for assembling includes gluing pages that contain formers and strengthening elements ona 0.5 mm cardboard. Start wit the cockpit interior 1 as it is shown on a view A of the instruction drawings. Form the fuselage segment 2, glue on it connecting stripes 2a — 2c and close it. Insert in it formers 2f and 2i, then insert from the rear the cockpit interior part 1 and complete the segment by fixing on its place the former 2f. Continue with the fuselage segment 3. Form it, glue the connecting stripes 3a- 3d and close it. Glue the rear part of the cockpit 3e and the former 3f. Then glue it to the segment 1, strictly keeping lines of symmetry. Assembly the fuselage nose by adding segments 10-13 and the nose air intake 14, 15 as it is shown on view B, Complete the fuselage by adding segment 17, segment 19 with preliminary inserted rear wheel housing 18 and the vertical stabilizer 20-20c. You can use the bottom centerline patter to obtain correct shape of the fuselage belly. Glue inside the cockpit ruder pedals 4, instruments panel 5-Sd, control rod 6, throttles control 7, pilots sit 8-8b, belts 8c and the gun sight 9-9t Assembly the cockpit glassing 21, by forming it and gluing the transparent parts 21t. Be careful and avoid mess. Note that despite the weathering of the aircraft during its field exploitation, the part that is always kept crystal clear is the cockpit glassing. If you've choused junior option, you can omit interior and use the parts 8, 8a for the cockpit glassing. ‘You can use the cockpit centerline pattern during assemblage and gluing the cockpit to the fuselage. Ifyou like to have antenna wire on your model, you should fix its end to the back of the pilot's seatand to insert the other end in the hole of the cockpit before glue it to the fuselage, as it’s shown on view C. Continue with the wing. Assembly the wing reinforcing structure (parts 23-23h/, wheels housings 22 and cover them with the wing skin parts 24-27 and wingtips 28, 29. Keep the dihedral angle and do not avoid twisting of the wing. Glue the wing to the fuselage and then place the wind-fuselage fillets 30, 31 Insert the horizontal stabilizer reinforcement element 32 in the fuselage and glue the profiles 32a, 32b on their places. Then place the horizontal stabilizer parts 33, 34 and glue them to the fuselage. Assembly and the cooling air intake 35-37and glue it to the fuselage beneath the wing together with the cowling 55,55a. Assembly the propeller 57-60 and its bearing 61 and propeller itself /55-60/, keeping the symmetry and the angle of attack of the blades 60. The propeller should rotate free in its bearing, Continue the undercarriage as it is shown on the view H. Cut the wheel parts 42, 43, 45 from heavy card and glue them to each other, keeping their order. After drying the glue, round them by sand paper, paint their edges with black ink or flumaster and finaly glue to them 42a, 42b, 43a, 43b and 45a, Assembly the undercarriage and glue it to the wings and fuselage, keeping the placement angles. Complete the model by aging the the antenna mast 62 and the rear view mirror 56. Fix the rear end of the antenna wire to the vertical stabilizer. Now your Mustang is ready. Enjoy!WiMedia” 1/32 Scale P-51 D MUSTANG PagetViicroceiqe 1192 Scale P-61 D MUSTANG ron c Cockpit pattern / NOTA PART/ ; 20-20b 20¢ c- te 19-19d 18 Belly pattern /NOT A PART/ A sete (O20 & zatxov1/82 Scale P-51 D MUSTANG Page 3 49 51 26 37,37a 37 36,36a 35b 35,35 59,59a 57> §7,67a 60-60 7c 61b 61,61al ‘Wish esi ‘oz & zatxov1/82 Scale P-51 D MUSTANG paced WiMedia” H 48 42m 42-42e 44m. & \ : 44-440 41m 45,454 41-41e— 43b 7 43 43a 1 52 54 5354 4 9 10 52 ~ 5483 543 2 1678 ra CA te rots € zancov[erodeieyre* 62 56-56)Diicrocerere 1/82 Scale P-51 D MUSTANG PagePRINT THIS PAGE ON 160 gin 1/82 Scale P-51 D MUSTANGPRINT THIS PAGE ON 160 gin CARD1/82 Scale P-51 D MUSTANG Pages PRINT THIS PAGE ON 160 g/m* CARD1182 Scale P-S1 D MUSTANG Page 6 HMMS Ss 87 42a 42b Ma 41D eye atc | SY 42 * oe ee co == Saal ea PRINT THIS PAGE ON 160 g* CARDooo = Wiicnocesqre® 1182 Scale P-61 D MUSTANG ftom fel ank _ ae asa aie f | \ WY, ae ay External fuel tank p— a > | 4 a= 4 | yng GG. 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DAMAGE YOUR LASER PRINTER! PAPEI ‘A480 g/m? 4 ‘TRANSPARENCY: | Ad Transparency Foil 1 WARNING USE ONLY TERMOPROOF SPECIAL TRANSPARENT USING UNAPROPRIATE MATERIAL CAN BADLY. Instructions, Cover: | No any special requirements for the paper used 7 REMARK: All pages are in A4 European format. You can use LEGAL format instead of A4, AL Files are in PDF Format (Adobe® Reader®). Ifyou do not have Adobe Acrobat Reader, download and install the reader by clicking the "Get Adobe Reader” button below. MODEL CONTENTS a pagell_cardpdf 02 page02_card.pdf 3 pagel eariipat 4 paged4_card.pdf 05 pagel cardpdf 06 paged6_card.pdf 07 pagel? cardpat 08 5 erat Paper 0 ‘page09_paper.pdf Paper10 ‘pagel0_paper.paf Paper 1 ‘pagel _paper.pdf Paper 2 ‘pagel2_transparency.paf ‘Transparency B pagel3_instructions.paf Instructions 4 ‘pagel4_instructions.paf Instructions 15 ‘pagel5_instructions.paf Instructions 16 ‘pagel6_instructions.paf Instructions 7 ‘pagel7_instructions.paf Instructions 18 ‘pagel8_instruetions.paf Instructions » pagel9_cover.pdf Cover END USER LICENSE AGREEMENT This prodet is available for private use only. Please read END USER LICENSE AGREEMENT carefully! CONTACT INFORMATION Card-Models: www.card-models.com For general customer or technical-support information, please contact us at support@card- models.com. Card-Models © 2005Unusual canopy thermoforming technique Posted 13 May 2006 by “hpept’ on CARDIO DELS TaaaT I hope i'm not re-discovering hot water with this technique, but here it goes. I've recently started to use this system to thermo form aircraft transparent canopies to reveal the cockpit detail which, in my opinion, really spices up a well done model. This system is really cool because you don't need any special tools like vacuforming machines or other crazy devices that need a century of practice to get nice results. Here the step by step procedure. 1. Assemble the paper canopy supplied with the kit. Just be sure to glue the tabs inside out, so that the inside of the paper canopy will result smooth and as much as possible crease-free 2. Buy some two components epoxy putty at your local warehouse (any will do, but i use Loctite Poxi Bonder or Alba Durepoxi), mix the right amount by kneading two equal parts of the mass and just fill the paper canopy using it as a mold. Be sure to fill it perfectly in all recesses and to keep the shape correct. 3. After a couple of hours, demold the epoxy by tearing the paper and wash the mold with soap to remove all bits and chunks of paper and glue. At this point you should already have a nice finishing, but if some creases appear, just sandpaper them away with finer and finer grade (600 grit should be more than sufficient). 4. Go again to your warehouse and buy something to drink (after all this work you'l be thirsty, ain't it?). Choose a plastic bottle made of PET which slightly fits the canopy mold. Avoid complicate or ultra thin bottles, just plain smooth bottles will do. 5. Cut the bottom of the bottle (only after you drank....) and push the mold inside so that it lies as close as possible to the plastic wall of the bottle. I use my son’s wooden bricks for fitting. 6. Switch on your kitchen fire and put the bottle over it ata distance of 30 em (1 foot). wear gloves or use a wrench to hold the bottle, as it gets really hot. As soon as the bottle heats up, it starts to shrink around the canopy mold and taking its shape. 7. Cool down the bottle under cold water, and it's done. You only have to cut the canopy with a sharp model knife. 8. Canopy framwork can be attached later by means of cyanoacrilate glue —More—Unusual canopy thermoforming technique . . . continued Posted 13 May 2006 by “hpept” on www.cardmodels.net The mold after sandpapering, ready to cast a new canopy Canopy just cut out and frame- work glued on it Canopy ready to be installed on the model As you can notice, the glass has a slight blue tint, which is really interesting. For example you can look for orange juice bottles and obtain a similar apperance to the golden tint canopies (like f-117) at almost zero cost and effort. jeglio aver paura che prenderle"- Proverbio toscano "Better be afraid than be beaten up" Tuscan proverb "Melhor ter medo que apanhar"- Proverbio toscano