Professional Documents
Culture Documents
t
Please no o ss y Is sue ...
of G l
a preview u ll version
ase th e f
To purch zinio.com
w.
e
go to ww
su
ht
s
Nick Knig
i 5 H
G
e
a
n
la
ry
G
Laura La
H
o
o
n
lland
zalez
ine
ngton-Whiteley
nti
Rosie Hu
ntributors
Co
Cover
Photography: Cameron-James Wilson
www.CameronJamesWilson.com
Make-up, Nails and Hair: Maddie Austion
using Chanel www.MaddieAustin.co.uk
Model: Rosanne
@ Premier model management
Photographers Contributors
1 2
The classic look works
5
anytime!! I love to pair
high waisted shorts with
a stripped shirt.
6
7
Black and white is
a perfect combo to
go and grab some
drinks with friends in
the evening....the tan
shoes add the perfect
final touch.
4
For a confortable
gothic look choose
big shoulders and
2
a cross necklace.
3 Showing your
stockings has been
a very big trend...I
love to pair them
with baggie shorts
and oversized
jumper
This is one of my
favourite outfits... Gala Gonzalez
the puffy skirt and
the heels with We’ve harboured a major style
socks
crush on Gala Gonzalez since we
discovered her tres chic blog Am-lul.
The girl just doesn’t get it wrong …
ever! She always strikes that tricky
balance between being fashion
forward yet laid back. We caught
up with her to discover her favourite
outfits and the thinking that went into
choosing them.
am-lul.blogspot.com
I like the use of bold colour, graphic composition of my collections. But from looking at your current
print and textures like denim and I am inspired by all sorts of materials collection, I see it still has your trade
lace in your spring summer 2010 and references. For example, when mark stamp on the pieces-like the
collection. What was your main walking down the street I take in tongue in cheek slogan t shirts and
point of reference ? what people are wearing, how they so on.
The denim and lace fabrications put an outfit together and so on. Yes, the collections still retain that
came from a rock n roll aesthetic. sense of fun and tongue in cheek
I was inspired by the early nineties So far, the pieces in your collections attitude, which will hopefully remain
and especially the Guns N’ Roses are definitely not ones for the faint with the brand.
video with Stephanie Seymour- hearted or retiring wall flowers.
November rain. The wedding What kind of attributes do you Growing up, were there any
scene in that video was one of the think someone has to have to designers in particular that stood
main reference points with respect carry of your clothes? out for you?
to the use of denim and lace in the Well you can’t be shy, that’s for sure! I loved early nineties Versace and
collection. But with regards to the You have to be very comfortable Vivienne Westwood. Those were
other details in the collection like in your own skin and be happy to probably my two biggest influences
the tailoring and knitwear- that came experiment with clothes. growing up.
from the perspective of what someone
would wear to a Polo match. How would you say your aesthetic has
changed since your first collection?
When you design a collection, do It has matured in a lot of different
you have a muse in mind to direct ways, for instance it has developed
your creative process? in the types of pieces present in the
No, there is never one muse collection. It is also less brass and
in particular which directs the loud and definitely more refined. >>
HENRY
HOLLAND
for ‘House of Holland’
Deserted
Photography: Christoph Köstlin
www.christoph-koestlin.com
Styling & Art Direction: Esaú Yori
www.esauyori.com
MakeUp & Hair: Rachel Wolfisberg
www.rachelwolfisberg.com
Model: Kristina Popkova,
View Management Barcelona
www.viewmanagement.com
Production Assistant: Lartaun Pérez
www.pophouse.org
del
Mo le
Sty
R
osie Huntington-Whitely has
one of those faces it’s impos-
sible to forget. Spotted while
doing a work experience placement
at Profile Model Management she’s
gone on to model for luxury brands
such as Burberry, DKNY and Agent
Provocateur. And it seems she’s just
getting started. We caught up with
her to get the scoop on what it was
like working with Victoria’s Secret
and more!
I DAY 2 – WEDNESDAY
have been working at Giles for some time before I was
asked to account on my time here. This is an account
of the time leading up to Paris Fashion Week, Spring/
Summer 2010.
So far at Giles I have been working predominantly on
SEPTEMBER 23 2009
patterns and leather sampling. My job usually involves Katie Grand is in the studio all day today, styling the
altering and drafting patterns and sewing toiles and show. I cut some patterns in leather and then get back on
samples. In the beginning I was working on show pieces working with the plastic. I am shown a sketch of a bag,
for the Giles V&A Fashion in Motion retrospective, of which I must draft the pattern. I do this on my lunch
which showed many of his most famous works and gave break and come back ready to draft and cut
DAY 3 – THURSDAY
me the opportunity to work on pieces worth in excess of
£25,000! For one piece (the Pacman dress) I had to glue
Swarovski Crystals on with tweezers, it was even sent to
the set of the new Sex and the City movie! Daisy Lowe
was in the studio not so long ago to collect her dress for
SEPTEMBER 24 2009
the GQ awards, she’s stunning in person. I also got to We have deadlines to meet with the plastic bags and
work on the Isklar bag collaboration, where I was able to accessories. They are entirely sewn by hand with one long
design the layout of the bag. I usually work from 10am piece of plastic, which is also cut by me. They also have to
until 6pm, but with the show so close, I come in at 9am be measured and punched so the holes are perfect. This
and work as late as I can, I don’t mind it as I love the is the same process by which Hermes create their bags,
experience I’m getting from working here. except we don’t use a needle. I get some other interns
DAY 1 – TUESDAY
to help on the sewing as there are about 8 bags to finish
a.s.a.p, which then have to have Swarovski bugs sewn on
and are sent to the Swarovski Atelier. I believe the Victoria
SEPTEMBER 22 2009 Beckham dress was sent off today also.
I’ve just got off a bus having registered in University DAY 4 - FRIDAY
yesterday. It was a 5 hour journey from Wales. I go
straight to the studio.I begin working on altering patterns
and then on slicing and creating leather samples for both
SEPTEMBER 25 2009
accessories and garments. I also have sole responsibility for Much of the bags are finished and are sent to the
the plastic production – meaning I have to keep a close Swarovski Atelier. I also begin work on clutch bags and
eye on the amount I use and I also have to cut the patterns hair pieces. The deadlines are getting tighter as we get
by hand with a scalpel! I spend most of the day on this. closer to Fashion Week. Giles calls me to the back to ask
Victoria Beckham arrives in the studio in the my personal opinion on three t-shirt designs, he wants to
afternoon, she greets all of the interns and is incredibly know which I would choose – I pick the one with the
nice to everyone. She goes to the back and selects fabrics animated dinosaur, it’s really cool. When I come back
for another dress, similar to the Giles one she wore on all of the other interns think I’ve been invited to Paris,
Fashions Night Out. rumours travel fast. >>
When did you first realise you When you first started out how did Demeulemeester and Rick Owens
had a talent for drawing? you hone your skills and develop but now I find myself more interested
I’ve always drawn. My parents your own personal style? in things that are more theatrical
are both artists so they were very I never consciously developed any like Gareth Pugh, Daniel Palillo and
encouraging towards drawing and style. I just illustrate things that Alexander McQueen. Lately I’ve also
painting when I was growing up. interest, trouble or fascinate me been into 90’s Gaultier.
at the time and my style develops
How did you go about pursuing organically constantly based on What do you enjoy doing away from
illustration as a full time career ? that. I have this feeling that I need to illustration?
After graduating (I did my BA in illustrate and repeat certain things I love to read, I’ve been reading a
fashion design) I put up a portfolio and get them out of my head before lot of Italo Calvino lately. I also have
consisting mainly of some small I can move on. I guess that is at least a great book that’s a compilation of
illustration assignments I had done a part of what my style consists of. artists writings from different eras.
while studying, and sent a link to I’m also fond of sci-fi and horror.
various places. One of them was Your heroines are always very Especially short stories.
Unit C.M.A., an agency based in glamorous and dress in chic clothes
Amsterdam, and they contacted how important is fashion to you and What are your favourite tracks on
me back and I’ve been working which designers are your personal your ipod at the moment?
with them since then. I was very favourites ? I’ve been listening to Benjamin
lucky to have been able to illustrate Glamorous seems like a funny word Biolay
full-time almost immediately since to me. Fashion is a big inspiration
graduating. but I am personally most interested You’ve had your illustrations
in fashion that questions glamour everywhere from Finnish stamps to
I’m sure you get asked this a lot :) But and beauty. For instance the the New York Times Style Magazine
where do you find your inspiration? works of Rei Kawakubo and Jun - what’s been the highlight of your
I get my inspiration mostly from Takahashi have always been very career so far?
literature, art and people, and of inspirational. I used to be very into I don’t know.
course fashion is a big inspiration. dark poetic designers such as Ann >>
Laura
Laine
Illustrator
oss
Gl psy
Pee
THE
WANG
GIRLS
HOW THE DESIGNER
AND HIS POSSE ARE
CHANGING PERCEPTIONS
OF SEXY GRUNGE
BY ARUSHI KHOSLA
L
et’s backtrack a few years, shall we? Before Alexander Wang manages to create a range of fabulous pieces,
Wang won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2008 while keeping them wearable yet undeniably chic. He’ll
and became a legend? Before Erin Wasson shot to effortlessly balance slinky tanks with boyfriend trousers or
fame as his muse? roomy jackets with leggings or no trousers at all. It’s all
What did we consider to be grunge? Joan Jett dressed about the proportions.
in baggy pants, messy tees and ugly, inconspicuous shoes. Pictures of his pre-fall collection clearly show his
Agree? “Grunge” as a rule was considered to be for the girl innate understanding of a working woman’s wardrobe.
who is utterly devoid of any semblance of style. The girl Yes, the distressed pants and covetable cardigans are still
who couldn’t care less. Something looked down upon by intact, but they’re solidified by accents like broader belts
the majority of the conventional editors. Then Alexander and sleeker fabrics.
Wang happened. He essentially manages to merge the Californian laid-
At 25, he is credited with making the “model off-duty” back style with downtown streetwear glam. But don’t for
look as common as a tulle skirt on the cobblestones of a second think that he’s all about the daywear. He has
Paris. Grunge is back with a sexy twist. The likes of Taylor successfully created some stunning eveningwear pieces
Momsen, Rachel Bilson, Mischa Barton, Alexa Chung while maintaining his aesthetic - luxe satin tuxedos,
and Peaches Geldof along with his ultimate muse, Erin beaded vests, midnight blue sequins et al.
Wasson are huge fans. The thing that hits you about his After his intervention in the fashion fraternity, the
clothes is their sublime simplicity with an edge. They word “grunge” easily translates to “fashion forward”
make you want to be a downtown hipster or a model. He or “downtown chic” sans missing a beat, which in turn
consistently juxtaposes male and female dynamics in his translates to an It girls’ uniform. The effortlessly uber
pieces, creating an allure that’s hard to miss. His Coco cool femme fatale. The girl every guy wants and every girl
Duffel bag is a total rage and sold out everywhere and he wants to be. And for achieving that Mr. Wang, we salute
brought boyfriend jackets to the masses. you.
Spotlight
Loft In
Soho
www.loftinsoho.com
What inspired you to start What do you love about fashion?
Loft In Soho ? The creativity of designers, stylists,
After making collages on paper photographers .... is art!
as a personal notebook for a long
time, I thought I could do for my What would be your dream job?
own website and share them. I A creative and liberal profession.
wanted a space to share what
inspires me in every moment, What are your favourite blogs
like a virtual notebook. and magazines.
I’m been an avid reader of many
W
e’re huge fans of Loft In How do you come up with the fashion magazines for a long time.
Soho’s blog. Her amazing concepts for your amazing collages? I also like design and architecture
collages, often comprised The music, my mood, the constant magazines. And I’m addicted to art
of illustrations, beautiful photography visits to streetstyle blogs and books, especially those from Taschen!
and tongue in cheek slogans are websites with amazing editorials, I visit the blogs that I like every day
incredibly inspiring and uplifting. So everything influences me. I try to (the list is very long, there are a lot
we persuaded her to give her beauti- be very visual and graphic. of talent!). Glossy, of course, is one
ful collages the “Glossy” treatment of my favorite online magazines.
and here are the results! Can you tell us your real name Congratulations on your amazing
or is it a secret? work!
It’s a secret!