PeMinlMatcchelerts
RACHEL
NELSON-SMITH'’S
> BEAD
RIFFS
Jewelry Projects
ey in Peyote
ge & Right Angle Weave
“An invaluable learning resource!”
— Marcia DeCosterBeyond the Usual Tools
Fora customized experience, round up the following.
+ Aneedle case (beaded, of course)
+ ‘Alighter ta melt away threads too short to srip
+ Atasklamp with a fullspectrum bulb
+ Acamfortable chair for extended beading sessions
+ Atinor other container for discarded items
he excess thread, need envelopes,
dandabandoned beadwork
+ Aviangular bed scoop for earup
+ Amini funnel for returning beads to tubes
+ Assmall dish for misshapen and stray beads
+ Iwo paits of chain-nose pliers, to work with jump
rings and to force the needle through tight spaces
+ Flush wire cutters to remove extra loops
‘on multistrand clasps
Techniques
When fist stated beadweaving, I gath-
ered inequlat beads, dental floss, wre
cuttes, and a sewing needle, then made
rudimentary stips of squate-sttched
‘beadwork. Thousands of beading hous
later, ve learned. a great deal. | share that
vith you bee.
Double Knot
‘Most projects in this book bagin with a
number of beads tea into ering witha
simple double knot. Sting the beads and,
Jeaving a 6-inch (15.2 cr} tal, overlap the
tall and working tea to tie a simple
‘uethand knot. Te a secon! knot and
{cave the tal to weave in ater.
—
Terminology
and Convention
Noort
Ciceieue le
Rou ls
renee
nee eit
Peete iene tess Ns
CE ettnes
Biya
Peer a ivy
steps are color-coded in this o(der
bee oeeancecncias
rr
+ The beads being added are out-
eae ey
Breer eae ectay issNearly two decadesafter! made them, my first pieces a
novice stitches. They prove that dental floss Is a strong beading materialt
Peyote Stitch
Abeadweaving technique wicely known
from ancient to modern times, peyote
stitch is extremely simoeand useful
Inits basic form, oeyete stitch isle a
sting tune et 140 beats oe minute—it
sounds pretty gooc ands easy to Isten
to. When we go beyord the oasis i's he
satopronis: Chale Parcer shredding on
histune "Yerdoird Suite“ at 220 beats per
rrinute. You'l usualy workwith ssing'e
thread, bute doubled thread is used wren
a groject or sect cn reeds extra steength,
‘orwnen larger oeads, such 26 8"round
seed beads, ate usec.
‘Alay aspect of peyoteis the rial beads
sttung aways become rounds 1 and 2
when rourc 3 is added. The peyote basics
presented here are -dhop stiches, add=
ing one bead at a time but they may
beapp ied tootnes drop variations wth
smooth arctexturel-—as wel asincreased
ang decreased—results,
+ Asmooth surface results from acd
ing the same numberof aeadsin each
opening as tre numoer ef beads two
founds below,
+ Atexturalor changing surface results
from adcinge different number of beads
in an opening as che number of beads two
rounds belowe Fer example, you might add
‘ore bead rather tran two in tre fourth
round for a cecrease.
For these octets | use the tubule evene
court ane fle odd-coun: vavations, Fat
cever-count i the basic form ofthe sien
ard though its nat used 0: these ovo}
‘ects,| recommend an exploration *ycu
haven't yet encourteredit Fat odd-count
peyote stitch is used justonce, in Polka
Dotsand Moondearns (gage 34), s0ts
descrided trere.
Tubular Even-Count Peyote Stitch
The ovojectsin teis dock use enly the
‘ever-count we'sion ofthe stitch, ric
speans that the seme numioer of stiche:
sadded in each rourd and there’sa “step
up’ at pe endof every round to ger into
2osition far the next rcure.
figure 1
Thread a needle with 2 working
‘of thread, Runes 1 throug 4 are shown,
infigure 1. Note: The 4-beed I-dropver-
Sion with eniy two beads in €acn round is
used mary times in tre projects. Tre cur-
rent row must always be renforced before
the steo up. o* the tude won't hold svape.
Rounds 1 and 2Strng an even currber of
beads—ié-bead ‘drop issrewn inthis
example. Ties simple double «not ‘0 form
acctcle and passthrough the first dee
added ted lire).
Round3 Sting one bead, skin 2 bead ane
(pass throug? the next best: repeat m0 the
dof the round. Pass through the frst
tbead adced in this round again—thi is
the steo up {blue lin
Round. String one bead and aass
through the next beec added in the previe
05 round, epest to the en ofthe ‘cure,
Steo up through the ist bead accee in
ths round
Peoeat round # to dested ength
RACHThread Ends
Hide the beginnings ang ends of threeds
w thin she beads for the appearance of
thess mastery. Tris applies to al forms
ef peyore stten
Toerc a trreae, select three Déecs O72
lagen ftom the ast bead exited Pass
ender tre thread between the lst bead
1e¢ and the fist bead in thediegens!,
then pass under the loop formed by the
1d exting the bead. Pass throuah the
diagonal and pul up tne
sdackto pul tre tightening knct insice
the be3d. Repeat through the second and
thite beads on the dsgena), then cut the
thread close to the thd bead (igure 2.
Tobegin anew thead, weave othe area
where tre beadwarkis to continue, Leav-
ing snorztal, work he series of knots
as above. then cut the thread cose to the
frst bead.
Right Angle Weave
Once learned. right angie weave presents
limitess possbilties forstructure and
texture, When working astig of ght
angle weave, t seems possible to ofow a
umber of thread oaths, which can cause
confusion, However, tree's ont
recttnread path. If you folow the rules
esctioed Detow anc on the next page,
itil become intuitive, much ikebas'¢
arithmetic, where two plus two aways
equals four, and ike |azz, where with expe:
ience, Imorarisation and syncopaticn
Decome instinctual
cor
Rule 1 Each subsequent unt travels ina
circular direction onzoste fem the prev'~
ousunis Fer example, a unit formed with
2 Cockwise thread patnis followed by
a unit formed with a counterclockwise
thread path,
3/3/3/%- and 1/3/2/3-Drops
inv’ andas*Rule 2 Each sibsequentstitch ravels at
ougtly 2 right angle from the previous
stitch For example, each horizontal stitch
is folowed bya vertical sizen.
Rule 3 E2ch unit has four sides and four
angles—usualy 90° each, Even vrien the
fourangies ofa unit dont ezcn measure
90? they always add upto 360°
Ateays beginwith four beads or four sets
of beads. Stitch everything twice for stabi
‘ty. Tris mears you reed to cupleate the
lastunit before going on tothe next unis,
provided there's ample hole space for any
necessary addtional stiches,
Several variations of right angle weave
‘with varying bead courts are possi)
such as -droo with one bead on al four
sides; combo of 1/3-dop with one
‘bead on two sides and three beads on
two sides; or M3/84- and 173/2/3-drops
where several sides aredifferent,such as
in‘Round Midnight {page 65), The stitch
pattem follows the same secuence of
tums no matier how many beads are on
exh side.
Flat Even-Count Right Angle Weave
This examale, shown in Figure 3, issimple
1-drop and row 1 is worked from eto
right. Note that all units with a red line are
Worked clocense and all unis with abive
Tine are worked counterclockwise,
Rvs 1, Unit 1 Swing four beads and te
2 simple double knot to form 2 square.
‘Working counterclockwise, pass though
the first bead added (gray line}.
Row 1, Unit2 Sting three beads 2nd,
working dockwise, passthrough the lst
bead exited and the fst two beads just
added (ed Ine.
Row 1, Unit 3 String three beads and,
working counterclockwise, pass through
the hast bead exited and he frst two
‘beads just added (blue line).
Remaining Unit(s) in Row 1 and Turn:
‘around Continve alternately repeating
Units and 3. To add the final unit, work as
for unit 2 but end by passing through only
the fist bead just added (ed line)
Row2, Unit 1 String three bezds and,
‘wotking counterclockwise, passthrough
the st bead exted, thefist, second, and
third beads just added, end the next bead
Inthe previous row (be line.
Row 2, Unit 2Sting two beads and working
cdockw/se, passthrough the tid besd ofthe
previous unk, the bead inthe previous ro,
andthe fst bead just added (red ing.
Row 2, Unit 3 String two beads ad, work:
ing counterclockw’se, pass through the
next bead of the previcus row, the frst
bead ofthe previous uni, the two bees
just added, and the next bead in the orevi-
‘ous row (blue line
Remaining Unit(s|in Row 2and Turn-
around Continue atematelyrepeating units
2and 3, To add the final unit work 9s for
unit 2 but end by passing through thefrst
‘and second beads just added fred Enel.
Row 3, Unit 1 String three beads and,
‘working counterclockwise, pass through
the last bead exited, an the first bead just
added (blue line).
Row 3,Unit2 String two beads and, work:
ing clockwise, passthrough the bead in
the previous row the fist bead of the
‘previous unit, the two beads just addes,
and the next bezd in the previous row
(ed line),
Row 3,Unit 3 Sting two beads and, work:
ing counterclockwise, passthrough the
second bead ofthe previous unit, the
bead in the previous row, and the fist
‘bead just added (blue line}
Remaining Uniti) in Row 3 and Turn-
‘around Continue alternately epeating
Units 2and 3. Toadd the final unit, work a5
for unit 2 but end by passing through only
the fst bead just added
Repeat from row 2, unit 1 through row 3
and tumaround to desired tenath.figure 4Row 2, Unit 3 String two beads and, work
Ing clockwise, 2395 terough the secon
bead accec inthe prev'cus unit, re bead
inthe prev cus tow, endtre frst bead just
added (ted tine,
Remaining Units in Row 2 and Tuin-
around Conti renesting
uunss 2 are 3, then unit 20rce more, To
addthe final nit,eaeat urit3 b.tere
by oassing theugh tre first and secon
beads ust addee:
Row3, Unit 1 Sving three beads and,
wording coumerciecew'se, pass through
the ast bead exitec and she fist bead just
eccec (ove!
Row3, Unit 2Steng twe beads anc, work:
ing clockwise, pass throug” the next 0826
inthe previous re, the frst bead adced
inthe previous unt, the twa beast just
2dded, and she next bead in te previous
row ted inet
Row3, Unit 3 Sting twooeeos end, work-
ing counterclecewise, siteh through the
second bead added in the orevio.s uvit
the beadin tre previous ow, ang the fist
bead just acced (blue le,
Remaining Units in Row3 and Tuin-
‘around Continse a tercately reoeat
units 2ane 3, then unit 2orce move. Te
add the final uit, repeat unit 3 but enc
by osssing though the frst and secon
ds just added.
Repeat fram row 2, unit | through
anc tutraround 0 desited ienath. add ng
thread as needed.
At lefl, many rows are Joined to farm a
large tube or bezel. On the right, three
rows become atube.
Tubular Right A
You can join she edges of any rectangular
strpo'fat ightangle weeve to form a
tube. Following the prineples of thestitc,
Jin the two enes of the stip together,
acoing ene dead at a time igure 5),
figure 5
ende thread end h ce the securng
points, seh ef three 08
dagen! from the last
under the tread berween tre bead
and the fist pea¢ inthe dago’
then pass under the loop formed by the
thread exiting the bead, Pass thrauch the
fst beec inthe dagorel ard pull pth
slack totighten the kot inge the bead.
Repeet through the secordare thi
‘beads.on the dagoval, thes cut the tread
close zotre third bead figure 6), To begin
1 thead, weave to theatea wrere the
c exited, Pass
ani
Dbeacinerkisend cortinve working in ight
angle weave, cuting the tal end when the
connections are secret.
figure 6Like a soloist improvising over chord
changes, we ada cimersion to right angle
weave bases with a variety of bumps.
Bumps are worked In tubular peyere stiicn
uofrom rightangle weave urits, The frst
rounds of peyote are usually worked with
beads of the same size used in the base,
ard some continue witha smaleesize
bead fo" 2 smooth finish. The exceotion
comes whena dagoral shane is created
vith three sizes of beats. as for Nig
Tunisia (shows on the prev-cus page)
Reund 1 ofeach bumpis atrarsiton from
right angle weave to tubular even-court
aryote. Trefinal curd ofeach bumpisa
ch rounc—you'l pass throuch the lest
round oF beads in a circular pattem ard
pull the thread taut. Tre exceptions oe
the T-diep bumo and S-croo riser, which
are not cinched, Bumps can ke frished
with montées cr finial ozeds.
Once you've compleied a ouma, weave
trrough the beadwor4 to begin the next
bump. Note: Sone o* tre thread patrs in
che ilustrations may appear loose, witha
considerable amount of thread exposed
Thisis for istration gurposes oniy—you
should addeach roune ef beadsin tre
bumps with e ferramaunt of ters on,
Finish with Montées Choosetsvo o9908I"9
beads in the fina! round and gass throvch
these beads anc the montée as flows
th the thread exiting clockwise from
bead | string one montée, passthrough
bead 2 clockw'se, pass through the ron
re, pss through bead 3 clockwise, o288
through the mortée, gass through bead 4
ocknise, and pass throughthe manté
epee: fom the beg nring fora tote of
eight passes trrough the montée figute 7h
doe
Finish with Finial Beads & 2-mm round
slverbeed atopa bump aces arice
finisring touch. Pass through @ bead in
the final curd, String a 2-mm bead and
ppassthrougn the bead in she final round
citeatiy oposite the fist ene exted. Mov
ing ina counterclockwise cect’cn, pass
through the next beac inthe fine! ono,
through tre 2-im bead, and throug” the
bead in trefiral curd drectly opposite
the st bead exited tFgure 8 Repeatthe
entre thteae path twice,
figure 8
“This drops worked ftom e I-erop ts
to
angle weave base—cr a cinch:
1-dta9 zubUar onyotesttch;it's poss bly
she trickiestcf al the bumps to make, Use
the same size bead for the Osmo that you
Used forthe base. Reinforce each round
‘before beginning tre next round, All steps
are shown in Aigure9.
Round 1 Vieave through the beashvork
to exit rom any bead in the 1-dtop rght
ange weave unit, Strrg one bead end
‘9885 through tne opposite bead ofthe
same unit String ane bead ane pass
‘through the frst bead exited, Sieo up oy
pastirg through the fist bead added
shown wth aes lire)
Round 2 and Subsequent Rounds Str'ng
‘ore bead arc pas through the next o2eé
fiom the pev cus round. String one bead
and passthrough the next beed from the
previcus round, then sep up zhrougn the
festbeadacded (bue ive}, Sepeatroune 2
todested len2-Drop Bump
Decreasing the bead size in round 3 brings
this bump in fora smooth, rounded finish
Beads ate indicated by A and B, and you
can use combinations of 115 and 155 8°5
and 11's; 6 and 8°, with the larger
bead (the A) being the same size as the
right angle weave base beads, This isa
fourround bump pattern; to make a taler
bump, repeat round 2. All rounds ae illus:
trated in figure 10.
figure 10
Round 1 Weave through the base to exit
from the second base bead on any side
(of a2-drop unit String one A and pass
through the second base bead of the next
side ofthe sare unit. Repeat three more
times, Step up at the end of the round by
passing through the first A added (shown
with a redline)
Round 2 String one A and pass through
the next A of the previous round. Repeat
three more times (blue line). Step up
through the firs A added,
Round 3 String one B and pass through
the next A of the previous round. Repeat
three more times (green line). Step up
through the first B added.
Round 4 String one B and pass through
the next 8 ofthe previous round. Repeat
three more times (blackline). Step up
through the fist 8 added
Cinch Pass two times through the last
four Bs added to form a circle (gold line)
and pull up taut.
3-Drop Bump
This bump begins on a 3-drop right angle
weave base and becomes a I-drop tubular
peyote stitch. A decrease in bead size in
round 2 brings this bump in fora smooth,
rounded finish, but you may use only one
size of bead for five rows, as in Night Star
(page 41) Beads are indicated by Aand B,
and you can use combinations of 11%sand
15%, 8%5 and 11°s,or sand 8°, with the
larger bead (the A) being the same size as
the right angle weave base beads. Note:
To make ataller bump, repeat round 2
several times with A, then change to B in
round 3. Allsteps are shown in figure 1.
figure 11
Round 1 Weave through the base to exit
the second base bead on any side of a
3-drop unit. String one A and pass through
the second base bead on the next side of
the same unit, Repeat three more times.
Step up at the end of the round by passing
through the first A added (shown with a
redline).
Round 2 String one B and pass through
the next A in round 1. Repeat three more
times Step up through the fst bead
added (blue lin).
Round 3 String one 8 and pass through
the next B in round 2. Repeat three more
times. Step up through the first bead
added (green line.
Cinch Pass two times through the last four
Bs added to form a circle (black ine) and
pull up taut
Flat 3-Drop Bump
‘This sa flat version ofthe 3-drop bump,
‘also worked on a base of 3-drop right
angle weave. Simply work round 1 and
cinch, skipping rounds 2 and 3 (figure 12),
o
figure 123/3/3/4-Drop Bump
In the spct of variations on a theme, this
‘bump incorporates two sizes of
11%$and 15% —andis worked on aright
angle weave base ofthe same two sizes,
th 11°s and finishes with 15%.
‘Additional rounds of 11°sor 15°5 may
added to increase the
forall rounds.
is
Round 1 Weave through the beadwork to
exit the second 15*in the set ofthree. String
‘one 15*and stich through the middle 1”’on
‘the next side ofthe unit. Sting one 11°and
stith through the middle two II'son the
next side of the unit Sting one 11" and pass
through the middle 1°on the next side of
the unt. 15%and stitch through
the middle 15° on the next side, Step up
through the fist 15° added (ed lng).
Round 2 String one 15° and pass through
the next 15° or 11in round 1. Repeat three
more times. Step up through the fist bead
added (blue line)
figure 13
Round 3 Siring one 15° and pass through
the next 15° round 2, Repeat three more
cimes, Step up through the fist bead added
(Greening)
‘Cinch Fass two times through the last four 15°
toforma cide (blackline) and pull up taut
Drop Bu
‘This bump is worked up from the same
base as 3/3/3/4-drop bump with only one
row oftubular peyote. Round 1 and the
cinch are shown in figure 14
figure 15This bump is worked on
a modified right angle
weave base of 11st
begins with 11°s and fin-
ishes with 15%, See figure
15 for all ounds.
Round 1 Weave through
the beadwork to ext the third
base bead of the 4-drop left side of the
unit ina clockwise dtection, tring one 11
and pass through the second base bead of
the next (3-drop) side, String one 11° and
pass through the second and third base
beads ofthe next (4-drop) side, Sting one
11*and pass through the second base
bead of the next (5-drop) side, then string
cone 11* and pass through the fourth base
bead of the same (5-drop) side String one
11*and pass through the second and third
base beads of the next (4-drop) side. Step
Upat the end of the round by passing
through the fist bead added (igure 15,
redline).
Round 2 String one 11° and pass through
the next 11” in round 1, Repeat four more
times, Step up through the fist bead
added (blue line),
Row 3String one 15° and pass through
the next 11?in round 2. Repeat
times, Step up through the fist bead
added (green line)
ur more
Row 4 String one 15° and pass through
the next 15° in round 3, Repeat four more
times. Step up through the frst bead
‘added (black line,
Cinch Pass two times through the lst five 15°
toforma cécle (gold ine) and pullup taut,
This bump begins on a 4-drop right angle weave
base and then alternates between 1-and 2-érop
even-count peyote stitch, Use the same size bead
for the bump as was used forthe base, The 4-crop
bump in Rondo (page 44) and in Groove (page 74)
remains 1-drop forall three rows. Note: To make
a taller bump, repeat rounds 2 and 3 altemately,
then finish with round 4 and the cinch. all steps
are shown in figure 16,
figure 16
Round 1 Weave through the base to evitthe
thitd bead on any side of the
cone bead and pass through the sec
third base beads on the next side of
Repeat three more times. Step up atthe end
of the round by passing through the fr
added (shown with a redline)
Round 2 String two beads and pass through
the next bead in round 1. Repeat three more
times. Step up through the first wo beads
added (bive line),Row 3 String one bead and pass through
the next two beads in round 2. Repeat
three more times. Step up through the fist
bead added (green line),
Row 4 Pick up one bead and pass through
the next bead in round 3. Repeat three
‘more times. Step up through the first bead
added (black line}
Cinch Pass two times through the last four
bbeads to forma circle (goidline) and pull
up taut,
4-Drop Diagonal Bump
This one’s worked on a 4-drop right angle
weave base of 1°, Itbegins with 8°s and
11°sand finishes with 15%, Follow along
with figure 17
Round 1 Weave through the base to exit
the thicd bead on the left side ofa unit in a
clockwise direction. String one 8° and pass
‘through the second and third base beads
con the next side ofthe unit. tring one 11°
and pass through the second and third
base beads on the next side of the unit.
Repeat to add one more 8° and one more
11° Step up by passing through the first 8°
added (shown with a red line),
Round 2 Siting one 15° and pass through
the next 11°in round 1. String one 15°
and pass through the next &* in ound 1
Repeat to add two more 15% (blue lin).
‘Cinch Pass two times through the 8°s and
the 15% to form a circle (green line) and
‘pul up taut
5-Drop Bump
This bump starts on a S-drop right angle
weave base of 11's and works into a
|-drop even-count peyote stitch. You'll
begin with 11°s and finish with 15%, For a
taller bump, repeat round 2, then go on
to,rounds 3 through the cinch. Refer to
figure 18 as you work.
figure 17
figure 18Round 1 Weave through the base to ext
the second bead on any side of 5-drop
unit. “String one 11° and pass through
the fourth bead on the same side of the
unit String one 11° and pass through the
second bead on the next side ofthe unit,
Repeat from " three more times, Step up
by passing through the frst 11° added in
the round (shown using 2 red line).
Round 2 String one 11° and pass through
‘the next 11° in round 1. Repeat seven more
times, Siep up through the fst 11° added
in the round (blue line).
Round 3 Sting one 15° and passthrough
the next 11° in round 2, Repeat seven more
times. Step up through the fist 15° added
in the round (green tne).
Round 4 Sting one 15° and pass through
the next 15° in round 3, Repeat seven
more times. Step up through the first 15°
‘added in the round (black ne).
Round 5 String one 15° and pass through
the next two 15's in round 4 Repeat three
‘more times. Step up through the fist 15°
added in the round (gold line),
Round 6 String one 15° and pass through
the next 1S*in round 5. Repeat three more
times. Step up through the fst 15° added
in the round (purple line),
Cinch Pass two times through the last four
15%stwice to forma cice (ginkline) and
pull up taut
Cail
9-Drop Riser
Worked up from a 9-drop right angle
weave base, a riser is similar to bump
bout left open. in Something Cool (page
108), the 9-drop riser has a bezeled rvoll
stitched into the opening, I's worked in
the same size bead that was used for the
base. All steps are shown in figure 19.
Round 1 Weave through the base to exit
the eighth bead on any side ofthe unit
String one bead and passthrough the
second bead on the next side ofthe unit.
String one bead and passthrough the
fourth bead on the same sie. String one
bbead and pass through the sixth bead on
the some side. String one bead and pass
through the eighth bead on the same side,
Repeat three more times. Step up by pass-
ing through the fist bead added in the
round (hiss shown with a redline).
Round 2 and Subsequent Rounds String
‘one bead and pass through the next bead
in the previous round, Repeat 15 more
times, Step up through the fist bead
added in the round (blue line), Repeat
round 2 to the desired height
figure 19
Right Angle Weave Bezel
Flat right angle weave is stitched into 2
tube and cinched on bath openings to
close up and form a bezel around a stone
The front and back beze! openings can
bee cinched with the fast method, the
slow method, the super-fast method,
combination of any two methods. There
are nine possible combinations; each
is directly related to the size and shape
of the stone, Often the first time you
‘encounters particular stone, it may take
several attempts to get the fit correct. t's
a balance between making the bezel wide
enough to hug the edges and stay in place
while revealing the maximum amount of
the stone's face. Figur inthe combina-
tions of units in width and length and
there are limitless variations in bezeling
a single stone. The unit counts for beze's,
for 12-and 18-mm rivolis and 27-mm
stones are included with each set of p19
ect instructions, ass the cinch style you
should use. Close the fst side with the
stone set aside. Close the second side with
the stone held in place.
Base Work strip of 1-drop right angle
weave two or more rows wide. The width
depends on the depth of yourstone, and
the length depends on the circumference.
‘Close the Tube Bring the short ends of the
strip together and stitch in one fina unit
to join as in Tubular Right Angle Weave
(page 19.Slow Cinch Weave through the tube to exit
an up bead on the edge of either open-
Ing. String one bead—the same size as
the base beads—and pass through the
J, Repeat all the way around
ening sightly as yo
‘more tightening is needed,
repeat the thread path,
Fast Cinch Weave through the tube to exit
an up bead on the ed
fing one beed—the same size as the
bbase beads—and pass through the next
of either opening,
wo up beads. Repeat all the way around
the opening, tightening slightly as you go
(figure 21), Be careful not to use too much
ion. f more tightening
the thread pat!
required
Super-Fast Cinch Weave through the tube
to exitan up bead on the edge of ether
openi he next up bead
without adding a bead. Repeat all the way
at0und the opening, tightening slight!
as you go ). Be careful not to use
too much tension. Ifyou need to tighten
atthe thread path
mi
figure 21
Alive performance flows from beginning
to end, but the final moments are the
most memorable, no matter
before, After al, the endis when a grand
finale takes place. | see each of these pxoj-
ects asa performance, with the finishing
touches and findin
came
final moments
at performance,
this method, you stitch beads into
small gaps between units of right
ish, to
angle weave. | use it to embell
feave into flat peyote
can workon
ds to.
figure 22String one bead and pass through the
next base bead with a hole oriented in the
same direction. Repeet as needed. Weave
‘through the end unit to turn around and
éembelish the next base row in the same
manner if desired (igure 23).
figure 23
Right Angle Weave
Base Embellishment
Endless entertainment and possibilities
crop up when paiting simple embel-
lishment with this versatile stitch. You
‘may stitch a bead to units containing
‘any number of beads, and many sizes of
embellishment beads will work. The stitch
is shown here on the diagonal (figure 24).
Simply stitch a bead over the openings of
fight angle weave units, With the threed
iting counterclockwise through the top
of a unit, pass through the embellishment
bead—here, a bicone is shown—clock-
wise through the bottom and left side of
the uni, through the ebelishment bead
again, then counterclockwise through the
fight side of the unit. Repeat the thread
path to secure.
figure 24
Embellishing with Mont:
Rose and chaton montées add an elegant
finishing touch when stitched to flat and
tubular variations of right angle weave and
peyote stitch,
Montée to 1-Drop Right Angle Weave
This is worked in the same way as fori
ishing bumps with montées.See figure 7.
Montée to 2-Drop Right Angle Weave
\With the thread exiting clockwise from
bead pai 1, string one monte, pass
through bead pair2 clockwise, pass
through the montée, passthrough bead
pair 3 clockwise, pass through the mon-
{&e, passthrough bead pair 4 clockwise,
and passthrough the montée (igure 25),
Repeat from the beginning fora
eight passes through the montée.
Montée to1-Drop Flat Peyote Stitch
With the thread exiting one of the beads
to_be embellished, pass through the
montée, passthrough the next bead in
the same direction asthe previous pass,
and pass through the montée figure 26.
Repeat from the beginning fora total of
‘ough the montée,
figure 25 figure 26Montée to 1-Drop Tubular Peyote Stitch
Tube End With the threed exiting from a
bead in the final row, passthrough the
montée, pass through the other bead in
the final row in the same direction, and
passthrough the montée (figure 27).
Repeat fora total of eight passes through
the montée,
figure 27
Beaded Toggle Closure
Luse plastic ings, sold in the notions sec-
tion of fabric and craft stores, that have an
‘outer diameter of % to 114 inches (1.9t0
38cm). To make the toggle loop, cover
ting with 1-drop tubular right angle
ve and stitch ina closed jump ring or
liquid silver as follows. The numberof units
wil vary by ring and bead size and by the
‘amount of tension you use while stitching
Round 1 Worka strip of I-drop right angle
feave that's one unt short ofthe circum:
ference ofthe ring’s band. With the thread
exiting a bead ofthe last uni, string one
bead and pass through a bead from the
first unit, then string one bead and pass
through a bead ofthe last unit (igure 28)
(Close as in Tubular Right Angle Weave
(age 19)
figure 28
Plastic rings and heavy wire make
perfectly matching halves of a toggle
closure when covered in beading.Round 2and Subsequent Rounds Worke Add Closed Jump Ring With the thread ‘To make the toggle bar flush cut length
row of -drop rightangle weave from the exiting from any bead in the unit, pass of heavy wire (18-to 12-gauge) equel to
previous row (Figure 29, redline). Add one through the closed jump ring, the oppo- twice the inside diameter ofthe finished
bbead to close the round (blueline). Repeat site bead in the unit, the closed ump ring, _ toggle loop. Cover the length of wire with
until the tube is one unit short of the and the fist bead again (figure 31). Repeat tubular T-drop right angle weave At the
length of the ring’s band, tosecure, midpoint stitch ina closed jump ring,
liquid siver, or attach directly toa chain
link, Add a series of double jump ring
connections until the baris centered, Add
montées to the endif desire,
figure 31
IF desited, embelish the outer units with
35-mm montées. Stitch the first montée
‘two units away from the closed jump ring,
figure 29 IF the number of units is even stitch the
‘monte in every other unit. the number
Close the Tube Exit one end bead of Is odd, skio two units between each mon
the last unit, string one bead, and pass tée except the frst and last.
through the corresponding bead of af
the first unit. String one bead and pass
‘through the bead inthe final unit again.
Repeat to close the tube around the band
(figure 30,
figure 30a,
figure 32figure 33
Add to Edge of 1-Drop Right Angle Weave
This method is used with 11° in Swing
Time (page 97), and it would work with
15% as well. fyou'e adding multiple liquid
silver beads to align with the loops of a
rmulistrand clasp, be sure to space the
connections correctly. Weave through the
beadwork to exit any up bead in the fina
edge row. String one seed bead, one liquid
silver bead, and one seed bead: skip one
up bead and pass through
he next up
bead, To secure the liquid silver just added,
repeat the thread path shown in figure 33,
until no space remains within the bead
holes. Weave through the beadwork and
at to add more liquid silver beads
asneeded,
Inaltheirsimplcy, jump rings are some
ofthe most useful findings, Use both open
and closed jump rings to attach findings
to finished beadwork,
‘lose Jump Rings Closed, also known as
soldered, jump rings consist ofa length of
‘wire formed into a circle; the ends of the
wire ae soldered together to completely
close the circle. They't put to use in the
projects presented here as connection
points between beadwork and clasp
nts, and they work great with
right angle weave, a fra cinch row,
and T-drop tubular peyote.
Join with 1-Drop Right Angle Weave ora
Final Cinch Row Select two beads on op20-
site sides ofthe same right angle weave
unit. Exit the first bead, string the closed
jump ting, pass through the second bead
in the seme direction as the first, and pass
back through the jump ring, Repeat the
thread path until the connection is secure,
Generally, the number of securing stitches
depends on the thread thickness and hole
size. When im asked how many stitches to
make, l answer, “Do it until youre bored or
the hole fills up’ Use the same method as
for adding jump rings toa toggle closure
(this was described in figure 31).
Join with -Drop Tubular Peyote Select 0
beads two rows apart wth one direction
con op of the other, Add a jump ring as
in 1-drop right angle weave or final cinch
row (see above)Open Jump Rings pen jump rings consist
igth of wie formed into a circle, bi
1e ends are not joined together. To open
2 jump ring, hold a pair of chain-nose pli
ers in each hand, ora pair of chain-nose pliers
in one hand and a pair of flat-noseplesin
thecther, Grasp the jump ring close to the
opening with the plersin your nondomi-
rant hand, These plies should simply hotd
the jump ring steady forthe rest ofthe
‘operation. Next, grasp the jump ring on
the other side ofthe opening with the
plies in you wand and swing
the ring open figure 34. Slip the opened
ting though the pieces to be con:
xd and swing it closed with the pliers
ur dominant
figure 34
Double Jump Ring Connections | use these
for extra strength with more weighty
projects and on the bar end of a toggle
clasp. Simply use two rings where youd
normally use one.
ead Cap!
ad caps add a nice detal to your bead:
ork. | typically make 3-Drop Bead Caps
Using size 11° seed beads, working with
a single thread and repeating the thread
path in each round,
Refer to figure 35 fora steps. String 12
beads, form a circle, and tie a simple
double knot leaving a 6-inch (15.2 em)
tail, Pass through the first bead strung
(ced tine),
Round 1 String one bead, skip two
bbeads, and pass through the next bead.
Repeat three times. Step up by passing
through the first bead added in the
round (blue line)
figure 35
Round 2 String one bead and pass
through the next bead added in round 1.
Repeat three more times (green line).
CGinch Pass through the four beads added
in round 2 and repeat the thread path. Pull
up taut (black line)
d Flexible Beading Wire
Crimping isa neat and secure way to
attach clasps to beading wite. Cut alength
of flexible beading wire 4 inches (10.2 ¢m)
longer than the finished piece. String
the beads and components as desired
on the wire. String the fst end of the
wire through a crimp bead, through the
loop of the fist clasp finding, and back
through the crimp bead, Close the crimp
bead with chain-nose or crimping p
Tuck the excess wire—1 inch (25 em) or
less—inside the end beads. Repeat with
the second end of the wire, tucking the
excess length of wire into the end beads
before crimping.CHAPTER TWO
NECKLACES
By AND PENDANTSMade in High Times colorwayPOLKA DOTS
AND MOONBEAMS
‘The lyrics to “Polka Dots and Monbeams” are delightful and a litt
corny,
referring toa “pug-nosed dream.” The melodic content moves in steps, ascending
and descending—much like the design of this necklace.
> Overview
Right angle weave tubes become beads
for stinging, and youl work flat pieces of
peyote stitch beadwork off of ditch beads
‘on some of the tubes, decreasing the
‘edges to points. Then you'll add montées
for embellishment, string the components
‘onto flexible beading wire, and finish with
‘a beaded toggle or purchased clasp.
ws
figure 1
> Tubes
With a single thread and 11°, work rect-
‘angle of t-drop right angle weave that is
five units long and three units wide (fig:
tue 1, ed ine). Close to forma tube by add
ing a total ofsi 1°S one at atime (blue
line). Reinforce all units as they are added.
‘Make 21 tubes—14 will be strung as they
‘are and 7 will become components
> Components
With double thread and 11°s, add four
ditch beads to a lengthwise row of a tube
(gute 2 Turn around to add four beads
in the second row, add the fifth bead by
stitching under the thread added in the
figure 2
Gree usu uiecrin!
oc
reorient
ee
onde one sc
pene ae
Rea)
Co
23 inches (68.4 cm) of flexible
re
Creer
Cae
Pout ou
Size 12 beading needles
Redihread
Cars
ia ete
‘Tubular Right Angle Weave
Ditch Beads
More eo acces
Beaded Toggle Closure (optional)
Ce ee ale
Cinco uci coca)
eee
ere)
NEISON-SMITH'S READ RIFFS
RACHELfigure 6
fight angle weave base, and pass back
through the bead (figure 3). Add four
‘beads in the third row (igure 4). Turn
‘around, adding four beads in the fourth
row, add the fifth bead by stitching under
the thread added in the second row tur:
around, and pass back through the bead
(figure 5) Work 30 more rows of odd-
count lat peyote stitch off the ditch beads,
then decrease the beadwork toa point as
follows, referring to figure 6.
Row 1 Add three 11° as usual. Pick up the
final 1% pass under the thread before the
last bead of the previous row, and pass back
through the bead just added (red line).
Row 2 String one 11° and pass through the
next 11° of the previous row. Repeat two
more times. Turn around by catching the
thread and passing back through the bead
|ust passed through and the last bead
added (blve line)
Row 3 String one 11° and pass through the
next 11° ofthe previous row. Repeat once
mote, Turn around by catching the thread
‘and passing back through the bead just
passed through and the last bead added
(green line),
Row4 String one S-mm chaton montée,
cone 11",one 8° and one 11°; pass through
the chaton and the next 11° ofthe previ-
cous row. Repeat the thread path to secure
(black ine).
Repeat all steps to make six more compo
rents as follows.
Components 2 and 3 Work 22 rows of
peyote stitch, then work rows 1 through 4
‘Components 4 and $ Work 14 rows of
peyote stitch, then work rows 1 through 4,
Components 6 and 7 Worksix ows of
peyote stitch, then work rows 1 through 4,
> Embellish with Montées
‘Attach montées to the peyote stitch sur-
face with a single thread as follows.
‘Component | Stitch one 35-mm rose
montée to rows 4 and 6, one to rows 12,
and 14, one to rows 20 and 22, and one to
rows 28 and 30.
Components 2 and 3 Stitch one 35-mm.
rose montée to rows 4 and 6, one to rows
Tand 14, and one to rows 20 and 22.Components 4 and 5 Stitch one 35-mm
rose montée to rows 4 and Gand one to
rows 12 and 14
‘Components 6 and 7 Stitch one 3.5-mm_
reoe monitor
, “tee,
> Finish
Referring tthe photo on page 34, assem-
bie the necklace on beading wie inthis
‘order: component I,one4-mm crystal,
‘component 2, one 4-mm crystal, compo
nent 4, one 4-mm crystal, component 6, 4
one 4-mm crystal, one 3-mm crystal and
one 4-mm crystal “String one tube, one :
4-mm crystal, one 3-mm crystal and
cone 4-mm crystal repeat from * six q
more times. Beginning on the other >
side of component .repeatthe ag
pattern using components 3,5, gases
and 7, Make a toggle closure
ifdesied, Attach the toggle
or clasp ends to the beading =
wire withthe crimp beads
‘
beaded up in the Nature Girl colorway, uses more ‘
‘components, fewer tubes, and 3.5- and 5-mm rose montées with :
only asingle 8° for embellishment at the bottom of the components.Made in High Times colorwayBILLIE’S BOUNCE
Lengths of peyote stitch connect components t
they wiggle, evoking the melody line of Charlie
‘the beaded rings bob and
‘Throw in lyrics by Eddie Jefferson for a riotously good time.
> Overview
Asseries of right angle weave and peyote
wheels are embelished with two different
techniques, then connected together with
tubular peyote stitch.
> Wheel Base
Following the instructions below, make
two right angle weave wheels each
in colors A,B, C,D, €,F,G, and H, for
a total of 16 wheels. Steps 1 through
4 are shown in figure 1. Work with a
single thread and reinforce each base for
strength and stifiness
‘To make the first unit, string seven beads,
tie simple double knot leaving a 6-inch
(15.2. cm) tail to be worked in later, and
‘passthrough the first two beads again,
2 For subsequent units, *string five beads
‘and pass through the last two beads
exited and the first four just added. String
five beads and passthrough the last
two beads exited and the fist three just
added. Repeat from * six times. String two
‘beads, pass through the two end beads
of the first unit, string one bead, and pass
‘through the two end beads ofthe last unit
‘added and the two beads just added
(ed line),
figure 1
‘
83 Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make a second
base in the same color
‘4Weave through beads to ext any set of
two beads on the outside edge ofthe fist
base, Sting two beads and pass through
a setof two beadson the edge of the sec-
cond base. String two beads, passthrough
the last two beads exited ofthe first base,
the fist two beads added, and the 10
bbeads ofthe next unit ofthe second base
{blue line) Continue to connect the bases
with two beads ata time,
'5 Weave through the beads to exit a bead
con the inside edge of the first base. String
‘one bead and pass through a bead on the
edge of the second base. String one bead
and pass through the last bead exited on
the first base, the first bead added, and the
next bead of the second base. Continue to
connect the bases with one bead at a time
figure 2)
figure 2
> Wheel Embellishment
‘1 Weave through the beadwork to any
2-drop opening on the wheel edge.
Embelsh the opening of the base edge
with one round of the 2-drop bump pat-
tern in the same color as the base. Cinch
the round and add a finial bead of color
|. Repeat to add a 2-drop bump to every
‘other opening, and make the seventh and
fifteenth bumps without finial beads.
2.Weave through the beadwork to exit
any set of two beads on the outer edge of
the face on one side of the wheel. Add a
‘4-mm crystal toll 16 openings. Repeat on
the other side of the wheel.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 to embellish all
16 whee's.
> Finish
‘Working with a wheel in color A, weave
through the beadwork to exit any ofthe
four beads in the cinch ofa 2-drop bump
‘where a finial bead was not added. Work
the bump into 50 rows ofa I-drop bump,
adding two Js in each row, one at a time,
Stitch the final row toa frialfree bump on
the next wheel, color B, Repeat to attach
all wheels in this order: A, 8,0, E.G,
H,D,A,B,H.E.£.G—or improvise your
cown arrangement.
ae
Bye emcee
es
cee eles
aioe
Aad oe ee
‘ends ofthe (-drop bump fenaths
Seuss race
Cu
Be heron. cs
Cos
Perinat che ures
eas
Rs S
Make an open-ended lariat
oe
oe
Cree
ewe
__ opulent beaded curtain.
ee eo au)
bead goes.NIGHT STAR (=
Slipping into her gig dress for the millionth time—it's worth it. With this ae
sparkler suspended over her heart, this singer's ready for another long
night at the lounge, with the band backing her up.
Made in StagelightéolorwayThe back
of the
pendant
> Overview
‘base of ight angle weave closed into a
tube and embellished with 3-drop bumps,
montées, and crystals encircles the rival.
You! decrease the front and back open-
ings to snugly enclose the stone, then
string 2 necklace chain through a sxcbead
loop atthe top of the pendant
> Base
With a single thread and As, string eight
bbeads and tie an overhand knot toform
a ring, Pass through the frst three beads
steung, “String nine beads; pass through
the las three beads exited and the fist six
beads just strung. String five beads; pass
through the last three beads exited and
the first four beads just strung, Repeat
figure 1
figure 2
from * four more times until you have six
small and five large loops (figure 1, red
line). String three beads, pass through the
thvee side beads of the fist uni, pick up
three beads, and pass through the first
three beads ofthe last unit to lose the
row into a tube (blue line).
> Embellishment
*Add @ 3-drop bump toa large right angle
weave unit usin 8s for round 1 and As
for ounds 2 through 5. Cinch row $ and
ad one montée, Weave back down tothe
base and add one crystal bicone between
the bump and the nextlarge uit as
shown in figure 2. Repeat from * five more
times but do not add a montée tothe
sixth bump.
figure 3> Rivoli Bezel
Using As and 15%s, work from the front and
back edges of the right angle weave base
t0.add two rows of tubular peyote stitch
asfollows.
Front Side
Refer to figure 3 for rounds 1 and 2. Work
loosely and reinforce each round before
‘moving to the next step.
Round 1 Working clockwise with the
thread exiting aset of three As (shown
with a red dot), * string one A and pass
through the next A sticking out tring one
‘and pass through the frst Ain the next
set of three As from the edge ofthe base
Sting one A and pass through the third A
inthe same set of three As. Repeat from*
five more times. Step up through the first
‘Aadded in the round (ed line).
Round 2 String one 15° and pass through
the next A added in the previous round.
Repeat 15 more times (blue line).
Back Side
‘Work round 1 as forthe front side. Place the
rival face forward in the bezel, then work
round 28 for the front to encase the stone.
> Finish
\With the thread exiting one ofthe front-
most As in the cinch round of the unem-
bellshed bump, string six 15°%, pass
through the corresponding back-most
A, back through the front-most A, and
through the six 15° (figure 4, redline)
Secure the six 15°s to the other front and
back As, Repeat two more times to rein-
force, String the necklace chain through
the sirbead loop.
figure +
Color variations in
High Times (left)
Cathe
+ Hang the pendant froma
stitched-in closed jump ing
(eee eae
Beet eisne
Perce ier an
Cece roaieiport se
stitch closed jump rings to the
Ciciecn seaeitntas
Cec cnciecue ine
together sequentially with double
Tia
Be Nike anne
Ceo
NEISON-SMITH'S READ RIFFS
RACHELRONDO
‘Arondo is an upbeat song with a beginning thematic passage that’s repeated
after every other section. Likewise, this project is an upbeat neckplece with
1 thematic pattern repeated every othersection. A tribute to Dave Brubeck’s
legendary tune “Rondo & la Turk” in 12/8 and 9/8 time, it works up alittle magic
1d ba
with 12-bead bumps overa 16-bead base, 4-bead bumps over an 8:
and 8-bead bumps overa 12-bead base.
> Overview
You'l bead a tubular right angle weave base around a vinyl tube core, stich bumps
‘onto the large units, and embelish each I-drop unit with arose montée, The tube
‘ends are closed with decreasing peyote stitch, and closed jump rings are attached
for connecting to the clasp, Make your own beaded toggle or purchase one and
attach it with jump rings,
> Base
Working in right angle weave with a single thread, weave the base around the vinyl
tubing as follows. Use the side beads ofthe first unit to complete the last unit in
‘each round, closing the beadwork around the tube, then weave through the bead-
"work to get into position to begin the next round, Begin with round 1 atthe bottom
of igure 1 on page 46.
Round 1 Work altemating units of eight As and two As/one B/two As/one B.
Round 2 Work alternating units of one B/two As/one Bi/two As and four Bs.
Round 3 Repeat round 1. ‘
Round 4 Work alternating units of one Bythree As/one B/two Asand four Bs.
Round § Work alternating units of 12 As and three As/one Bvthree As/one B,
NEPeOM_CMITH'C REAM RIFESfigure 2
Round 6 Work alternating units of one B/four As/one B/three
‘As and four Bs.
Round 7 Work alternating units of 16 As and four As/one BY
four As/one 8,
Subsequent Rounds Work round 6 to round 1 and then beck
up to round 7. Repeat the sequence, finishing with any round
with alternating edge beads of two As and one B to match
the outer bead pattern of figure 2—rounds 1, 2, oF 3.
> Embellish
Working eround the diameter ofthe tube, embellish the
‘mukisdrop units with bumps topped with finial beads (2mm
rounds) and add rose montées along the way, reinforcing
all thread paths. Note: Though the rounds are given below
in numerical order, begin with any round, work up to round
Z,then back down to round 1. Repeat working rounds 1
through 7 and then rounds 6 through 1, ending the last
repeat with rounds 1, 2,03.
Round 1 With As, embellish each 2-drop unit with one round
‘ofa 2-drop bump, cinch, then add a finial bead.
Round 2 Embellsh each 1-drop unit with one rose montée.
Round 3 With Cs, embellish each 2- Finish the Ends
Cut the vinyl tube at the final round. Work the final right
angle weave base round into tubular peyote stitch with B
a5 follows. Refer to figure 2 forall rounds,
Round 1 With the thread exiting two As in the final round
of the base, sting one B and pass through the next B of the
same base round: string one 8 and pass through the next
two AS of the same base round. Repeat three more times,
Step up through the first bead added (red line)
Round 2 String one B and pass through the next B of the
previous round, Repeat seven more times. Step up through
the first bead added (bie line),
Round 3 Repeat round 2(areen lin).
Round 4 String one B and pass through the next two Bs
of the previous round, Repeat three more times. Step up
through the first bead added (black line).
Round § String one 8 and pass through the next 8 in round
4, Repeat three more times, Step up through the fist bead
added (gold line),
Cinch Pass through the four beads added in
round 5 twice and pull taut (pink tne).
Stitch a closed jump ring to the round
5 beads, Repeat atthe other end of
the necklace.
Color variations in Stagelight
{above) and High Times
> Finish
Bead a toggle closure if desired
Attach it, ora purchased clasp,
to the closed rings at the ends
of the neckace with sicjump
fings on each side—two jump
tings at each connection,PHRASEOLOGY
‘As the band plays the turnaround, the sax player pauses foradeep breath,
then dives headlong into a bevy of notes strung together in cognitive, musical
thought. He breathes in again and repeats the riff as though it's written In
stone rather than the transient smolder ofthe night. In the same way those
short phrases organize into a longerexpression, in this necklace stitches come
together ina statement of bead phraseology.
> Overview
‘The piece begins with a base of 11°s woven over a vinyl tube core I's then embellished
‘with bumps, 15°, 8s, and drops, and finished with a custom bead and loop closure.
Note: Often in tubular stitches the term “step up" is used. Here we use “step down,”
coordinating with the figures.
> Base
With single thread, weave a base over the tube core with se 11° ound seed beads
asfollows.
Round 1 Begin 3-drop netting by stringing three Es and one A five times; tie a simple
double knot, leaving a 6-inch (15.2 cm) tall to weave in later Pass through the first two
Es again tostep down (igure 0,
figure 1
Size 11" round seed beads:
eo oot
B, bronze metallic, 20¢
Conca
Coe
Cot
fen ood
Cee
Cc
Geo
Reena eis
Ge
fe a ene
Be
Pee ke
Cd
eee
45 pieces
eee eo
Ny matte light lopa2 AB, 40 pieces
Oru icaur ac
{61 em) long
Size 12 beading needles
Gray thread
‘Sharp enips
Bree er ec
Oe ere
Bi
Beats
posi
peti
Bova)
RACHEL NELSON-SMITH'S BEAD RIFFSRound 2 String three Fs and pass through
the middle E from the previous round (the
second of the set of three beads). Repeat
four more times. Step down through the
fist two Fs added in this round (figure 2).
Round 3 String one A, one and one A;
ass through one F from the previous
round (the second bead of the next set
of tee beads), Repeat four more times.
Step down through the fist A, the frst
F and the second A added in this round
{figure 3).
Round 4 With €s, work 3-drop right angle
‘weave by passing through one A, one F,
‘and one Ain round 3, as shown in igure
4, Step down through the fist € ina set of
thee, Note: These units willbe filed in
later with 3-drop bumps.
Round 5 With B, change to 3-drop netting
as shown in figure 5.Step down through
the fst two beads added in this round.Round 6 Work another round of 3-drop
netting with Gs figure 6. Step down
‘through the fist two beads added in
this round.
Round 7 Repeat round 6 with B.
Round 8 Repeat round 6 with G.
Round 9 Repeat round 6 with 8, but atthe
end of the round, step down through only
the fist B added in this round.
Round 10 Change from netting to herti
bone stitch: String two 11° of any color,
then pass through the third bead of the
Current set of three in the previous round,
Pass through the first bead in the next
set of three in the previous round. Repeat
four more times with different color beads
insets of two (two 0, 8.C,D,and Fare
shown in figure 7). Step down through the
first bead added in this round,
Round 11 To continue in modified her-
ringbone stitch, sting two beads (ofthe
‘same color as the last bead exited) and
'pass through the second bead in the set of
‘wo in the previous round. String one 15*|
‘and passthrough the fist bead of the next
set of two beads in the previous round.
Repeat from * four times (figure 8). Step
down through the first bead added in the
previous round and through the first bead
added inthis round.
Rounds 12-14 Repeat round 11.
Round 15 Sting one 11° and pass
through the next bead ofthe two-beed
set, then string one 15°I and pass through
‘the first bead of the next two-bead set.
Repeat four times (igure 9), Step down
through the first bead added in this round.
‘figure 13
Round 16 String four 8s and pass through the next E
in round 15. Repeat four times (igure 10)-Step down
‘through the fist four beads added in this round,
Round 17 With B,createa round of 4-drop right angle
‘weave as shown in figure 11. Step down to exit the fist
‘bead in any set of four on the beadwork edge. Note:
These units will be filed in later wth 4-drop bumps.
Round 18 To work 3-drop netting, string three As and
‘pass through the fourth B ofthe current set of four and
the fist B ofthe next set of four figure 12) Repeat four
times. Step down through the first two beads added in
this found,
Round 19 Wark 2 round of 3-crop netting with Es
{figure 13). Step down through the fist two beads
added in this round.
Round 20 Repeat round 19 with Fs.
Round 21 Repeat round 19 with Cs.
Round 22 Repeat round 19 with Bs.
Round 23 Repeat round 19 with As.
Round 24 Repeat round 19 with Es.
Round 25 Repeat round 19 with Fs.
Repeat rounds 3 through 25 seven more times, then
repeat rounds 3 through 9, or end with any round of
3-diop netting.
> Embellishment
Following the instructions below and refering to figure
14 (working top to bottom), add embellishment in the
ditches of 3-crop netting and add 3-drop and 4- Clasp Bead
You may use single thread and reinforce your work along the way
or work with doubled thread. Youll work from the last round of
netting completed on the tube,
Round 1 With the thread exiting any middle bead in a 3-drop
netting uni, string one B and pass through the middle bead
‘of the next unit. Repeat to add a total of five Bs (igure 15). Step
down through the fist 8 added.
Round 2 To work tubular peyote stitch, string one Band pass
‘through the next B added in the previous round, Repeat to add
a total of five Bs (igure 16). Step down through the first bead
added in this round.
Round 3 Repeat round 2.
Round 4 Repeat round 2 with five 8",
Round 5 Repeat round 2 using sets of two Bs asf they were one
bbead, adding 10 beads total figure 17).Step down through the
fist two Bs added in this round (figure 18)
Round 6 Referting to figure 19, string two Bs and pass through
‘one round 5 bead (ted dot string 12 Bs and pass through one
round 5 bead (blue dot), the two Bs just added, one round 5
bead (ed dot), and four Bsjust added. Referring to igure 20,
string eight Bs and pass through one bead in round 5 (ed dot);
sting two Bs and pass through the next round 5 bead (blue
do}, four beads from the previous unit, eight Bs just added, and
the next round 5 bead (green dot. Referring to figure 21, string
two Bs and pass through the next round 5 bead (ted dot) string
ight Bs and pass through four Bs from the previous unit and one
round 5 bead (blue dot; pass through twwo beads just added, the
next round 5 bead (red dot), and four 8 just added. Continue with,
modified right angle weave to complete five units igure 22). Step
down to exit four Bs on the leading edge ofthe round and the fist
Bin the next set offour.Note: These units will be filed in later with
4-drop bumps.
Round 7 To work modified peyote stich, sting one J and pass
through the fourth Bin the current set of four edge beads and
the fist Bin the next set of four edge beads. Repest to add a total
of five Js figure 23) Step down through the first bead added.
Continued on page 56figure 22
Color variations in
Softly (left) and High Timesfigure 26
sete
9-8
~e-
Round 8 To work tubular peyote stitch, string one B and passthrough the
rnext bead added in the previous round, Repeat to add a total of five Bs
(figure 24, Step down through the fst bead aided.
Round 9 Repeat ound 8.
Round 10 Repeat round 8 with five Fs
Round 11 Repeat round 8 with five Es.
‘Cinch Without adding beads, dass through the five Es from round 11 twice
and pull taut (igure 25), Weave in excess thread or use it to add the 4-crop
bump as follows,
Add 4-Drop Bumps to Round 6
‘Add a 4-drap bump to each right angle weave unit made in round 6. Use Bs
for rounds 1 and 2, Fs for round 3, and &s for round a/cinch,
> Clasp Loop
‘Make a loop to accommodate the clasp button as outlined below, Work
with 2 single thread and reinforce every stitch with a second pass. Reinforce
the two points where the loop connects tothe necklace as many times as
the bead holes wil allow. Youll work off the first round of netting atthe
beginning of the tube,
Rounds 1 and 2 Repeat rounds 1 and 2 of the clasp bead,
Round 3-5 Repeat round 2 ofthe clasp bead.
Round 6/Cinch Without adding beads, pass through the five Bs from round
5 twice, Pull the thread taut and exit from any B in the round.
> Add the Loop
This sa length of tubular peyote with only two beads in each row—a
1-drop bump. Reinforce each round before beginning the next round. Refer
to figure 26 for rounds | and 2.
Round 1 Sting one H, pass back through the 8 just exited, sting one H and
pass back through the B and the first H added (red line).
Round 2 String one H and pass through the second H added in the previ-
‘ous ound, string one H and pass through the fist H added in the previous
round, Step up through the first bead added inthis round (blue line),
Repeat round 2 for 54 rows of tubular peyote stitch, alternating two rows of
Hand two rows of|, Secure the final row to the opposite Bin the first round
‘of netting on the tube, Weave in thread and trim excess,JAZZ
‘You wear fancy clothe:
ind tell folks what's on your mind.
ing sassy and
independent are prerequisites for stitching up and w
ing a stunner like this.
Enjoy living high on your nickels and dimes, and let the beads shimmy through
‘your fingers. Just like the song says,
Jazz ain't got nothin’ but soul.”
‘Made in Nature Girl colorway
SUPPLIES> Overview
First you'll use right angle weave to create a base of 8
round seed beads, then you'll embelish the base with
5-drop netting in 11° and 6° round seed beads and 4-mm
bicone crystals. Finally, youll fnish with a custom beaded
toggle ora purchased closure.
> Base
Following the schematic in figure 1, weave a 2-drop right angle weave
‘base with 8°s, Pay careful attention to the turnarounds, which vary from
row to row, to create the diagonal shape, Work with doubled thread for
extra strength,
figure 1> Embellishment
Following the instructions below and refer-
fing to igure 2, add vertical layers consisting
offive rows of- Finish
Toattach a 4-mm closed jump ring
ch upper end of the base, weave
igh the beadwork to exit the first
ad ofthe final unit ofthe base (figure 3,
6), String a 4-mm closed jump ring
385 through the second bead of the
inal unit and
the same unit. Re
reinforce ani
bboring unit
purchas
with doubleju
a beaded to
sad path to
he ni
4 weave throu a
for addition
ifdesred, Attach tor
clasp, tothe soldered jump ri
mp ring connections, Use one
rings to attach the ring
the bar end
Color variation
in Stagelight=
-SMITH
NELSON
RACHELMade in High Times colorwayNIGHT IN TUNISIA
‘The inimitable Dizzy Gillespie captured a sense of Mother Africa in 1942 when
he wrote “Night in Tunisia.” With its unique and mysterious feel, and even
without Sarah Vaughan singing the lyrics, the mel
riding through fragrant, spice-infused twilight,
ly has you on camelback,
> Overview
The beadwork begins with a base of right angle weave, and the fun begins as the
various size beads used to fill the units pull the 90° corners into 135° and 45° angles.
You stitch around the perimeter and add dangles and chain along the way, then
attach simple findings. The beadwork is approximately 4 inches (10.2. cm) wide. Refer
to figure 1 (page 64) forall steps.
> Base
‘With stitch aright angle weave base with mositied beac counts following the redline in
the gue. You may begin at any point inthe patter, but be sue to follow the principles of
right angle weave. To add an extra 1é-bead unitto the center front, begin a the blue dot and
‘exit four As ofthe center unit (blue dot, blue line} string 17 As, passthrough them again—
‘except the rst A—string one A, and passthrough the four As ofthe center font uit.
> 4-Drop Diagonal Bumps
Follow the instructions for 4-drop diagonal bumps but use the beads indicated below.
Fillin ll 25 ofthe 16-bead right angle weave units. There sno specified thread path for
moving between the bumps.
a
c
<
«
NELSON-SMITH
Color variation in Nature Girl
RACHELRound 1 Tixo Bs and two Cs added alternately —with Cs on the lft
and right,
Round 2 Four Ds
Cinch Pass two times through the Cs and the Ds
> Ed: ¢ D
With single thread, follow the green ine nthe illustration to pass
through the outer-most beads for a finished look, adding dangles along
the way. For each dangle string one E, one Fone G one H, and one E,
‘and pass back up the seris to continue following the green line.
> Finish
Cut the chain into two 8:inch (20.3 cm) lengths, Weave in a new
thread or use an existing one to stitch one end of each chain in the
corners ofthe uppermost units following the black ne. Reinforce.
Connect the spring ring clasp to the end of one chain, Twist the split 8
‘ing onto the other chain end.SUPPLIES
The influence of pianist and composer Thelonious Monk spread far and wide like
2 sweet smoky haze—a glimmer of his genius was even shed upon this pendant.
Sparkling crystals mark the midnight hour's magic arrival.
FINISHED Size
Made in Softly colorwayPO
You'l bead two circular bases in right
angle weave with a single thread, The
large units of the bases are embellished
in different manners, and the two faces
ate stitched back-to-back and strung on 3
necklace chain,
> Bases (Ma
With a single thread, make a circular strip
of right angle weave one unit by 24 units
as outlined below. Allsteps forthe base
are shown in figuee 1. Excess thread may
'be worked in and cut, or saved for embel-
lishing or stitching the bases together,
Stitch all units twice to reinforce them.
Unie 1 String ten 11% and three 15% te @
simple double knot, and pass through the
first three 11°s again.
Unit2 String five 1°s and one 15% pass
through the three 11°s last exited and the
five 11% just added
Unit 3 String three 15°5 and seven 11°5;
pass through the three 11°s last exited,
then the three 15° and the firs three 11°s
justadded.
Repeat units 2 and 3 ten more times.
Unit 4 To join the circle, string two 11°,
‘pass through the three 11°s of unit 1,
string one 15% and pass through the
three 11°5 ofthe previous unit.
figure 2
figure 3
> Embellis
ment
Working withthe large units, embelsh
the front base with 3round bumps and
montées, and fill the back base with
1-round flat bumps as follows.
Front Base Work 2 3/3/3/4-drop bump
‘on the first unit and cinch, then stitch a
montée to the final round of the bump.
Weave to the next large unit, Repeat 11
more times.
Back Base Work the first round ofa flat
3/3/3/4-drop bump on the first unit
and cinch, Weave tothe next large uni.
Repeat 11 more times.
Connect the Bases
Working with single thread in ight angle
weave, stitch the outer edges of the front
‘and back bases together with 11°s.To
allow space for the necklace chain to be
inserted through the beadwork, add
two 11° in the first and second sections
but only one 11°to all subsequent sec-
tions figure 2).
Join the inner edge as shown in figure 3,
adding one 11° ata time.
> Finish
String one end of the neckiace chain
through the two-bead connection section.
This project also makes a nice brooch.
‘Simply ditch the chain and stitch a bar pin
to the back.
ae
Bie on)
Psare iui chanueai ly
Eines enoneSUPPLIES —
Nick Kenny's lyries for Duke Ellington's 1933 tune “Drop Me Off in Harlem”
captured a classy uptown style—and so does this drop-shaped pendant. ee
‘The girl described in the song would have worn a twinkling
trinket just like this one fora night on the town,
Made in Nature Girl colorway.