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VOLUME 12 NO. 118
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
SAWU AND RAIJUA’S REMOTE LOCATION LURES THE ADVENTUROUS TO VENTURE AND DISCOVER ON THEIR OWN
THE BADUY PEOPLE ARE ONE OF THE FEW REMAINING TRADITIONAL TRIBES WHO ARE STILL VERY MUCH IN TUNE WITH NATURE
WHEN SPORT AND SPIRIT BLEND
NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2010 1
ON YOUR MARCH GET SET…
‘Om Swastiastu...’ Welcome to the Indonesian archipelago and welcome to our March 2010 edition of Bali & Beyond! To start off with, this month’s Craft & Culture coincides with the second international yoga event to be held in Bali from March 3-10. It starts from the viewpoint of how yoga classes have rapidly flourished in recent times, and different forms have also been adopted in daily life by the Balinese, not only from a philosophical standpoint as a way to connect with the Divine, but also from a ritualistic standpoint. People visiting Bali are often young, energetic and enthusiastic. Eager to experience and learn more about life in a new environment, they come to Bali to surf, have fun and enjoy the sun. A large portion of them are students taking a break from studying in the form of a short vacation or a longer trip. The latter choice is often a tempting one, but most students find it impossible to justify a long absence from their studies in the name of merely a longer vacation. But what if the two could be combined? Mikael Kiuru of Asia Exchange Ltd. recently sent us some hints through this month’s Pondering Point. In Profile & Portraits, it’s a well-known persona from Ubud, the place that had just been hailed as “The Best City in Asia” by readers of Conde Nest Traveller. We sat down with Murni, owner of Murni’s Warung, one of the restaurants hailing from the early days of Ubud’s tourism growth that has endured and progressed until now, to talk about her recollections on the place’s development. Michelin Stars have been the keyword lately in the island’s dining scene, where Michelin Star Chefs from the world over have descended upon Bali to treat foodies to the best dining experiences. Recently, an acclaimed restaurant in Ubud inaugurated its International Star Guest Chef Promotion Series when former chef-owner of Au Crocodile, 3-Star Michelin Chef Emile Jung, visited Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique in Bali for two nights of culinary festivities. Find out about it through Invite & Indulge. In this month’s Beyond Bali, we present to you a tale from islands on the rim. The island of Sawu is located between Timor and the island of Sumba, right in the Sawu Sea in the East Nusa Tenggara province. Overall, it is at the southernmost region of the Indonesian archipelago, bordering directly with Australia in the south. One of the attractions of Sawu and Raijua (its west neighboring island) actually lies in the scarcely available information on the island itself. You would hardly find writings of it, from brochures or photography. Its remote position lures the adventurous to venture and discover. Capital Corner this month covers a different aspect, a pause from the highly modern lifestyle and the hubbub of the metropolis. Our team of contributors presents to you the Baduy people, living only a 5 hours drive from Jakarta, hidden at the feet of the Kendeng Mountain. They are one of the few remaining traditional tribes who are still very much in tune with nature. Their unique customs and religious beliefs do not allow modernity to infiltrate in any way. Today, they are still living the way their ancestors used to live hundreds of years ago, as if trapped in a time capsule. A fact made even more remarkable by their actual proximity to Jakarta, the capital of excess and everything modern. Come and see the beauty, taste the flavors and witness the diverse highlights and colorful attractions for yourself! Happy reading and keep safe! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. View his portfolio at www.alcibbumphotography.com
Donny Cahyadi continuously feeds us with fresh photos by the week. A shutter-happy guy who enjoys fiddling around with his camera, as well as his mustache.
Josua Alessandro loves to photograph human subjects, cultures and landscapes. His portfolio can be viewed at www.escapadepictures.com
Patricia Ivana loves writing, which also finances her travels. She loves the beach and wishes to go to all the beautiful beaches in the world. Don’t we all?
Vincent Herry is an avid photographer. His portfolio at vincentherry.com spans many styles and angles, from fashion to culture, indoors and out.
BALI & BEYOND
Deputy General Manager Managing Editor Editorial Assistant Editorial Advisors Graphic Advisor Graphic Designer GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA firstname.lastname@example.org NYOMAN ARI GUNADI email@example.com NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI firstname.lastname@example.org A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS WENIAR PRAMESTI PUTU PARTAJAYA email@example.com MADE SUWARDANA firstname.lastname@example.org Advertising & MarComm. Manager F&A Supervisor GA & Personnel Adm Distribution FANDY GUNAWAN A. email@example.com A.A. KETUT SUKERTI firstname.lastname@example.org I GEDE ADARA email@example.com NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA
Contributors JOSUA ALESSANDRO, FADIL AZIZ (ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY), DONNY CAHYADI, VINCENT HERRY, PATRICIA IVANA, SENGE (STOCK.XCHNG)
Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House - Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:firstname.lastname@example.org http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
March 2010 Volume 12 No. 118
CRAFT&CULTURE WHEN SPORT AND SPIRIT BLEND Yoga has long been adopted into the daily lives of the Balinese, not only from a philosophical standpoint but also as a way to connect with the Divine from a ritualistic standpoint.
BEYONDBALI TALE FROM ISLANDS ON THE RIM
Sawu and Raijua’s allure lies in the scarcely available information of the islands itself. Its remote position lures the adventurous to discover on their own.
8 BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2010
INVITE&INDULGE STARS FOR ALL SEASONS Mozaic Restaurant inaugurated its International Star Guest Chef Promotion Series recently with a visiting 3-Star Michelin Chef.
PHOTO BY ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
March 2010 Volume 12 No. 118
PHOTO COURTESY ASTON INTERNATIONAL
Yogini & Mudra Senge (stock.xchng)
The owner of one of the restaurants hailing from the early days of Ubud’s tourism growth talks about her recollections of the place’s development.
PHOTO COURTERSY MURNI’S WARUNG
STUDY N' ENJOY PARADISE
Is it possible to combine studying and life in paradise? 40 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS
12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island. 58 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali. 62 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events. 66 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month. 70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.
OUT OF VILLA, INTO VALLEY
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan lets guests experience a day in the life of a Balinese farmer, which includes a morning trek, rice planting, and an inspired spa ritual.
CAPITALCORNER EARTH’S LAST GUARDIANS
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
The Baduy people, hidden at the feet of the Kendeng Mountain, are one of the few remaining traditional tribes who are still very much in tune with nature.
The St. Regis Bali Resort recently launched its tropical park, which features a Chef’s Garden, a dinner venue called Dulang (literally ‘royal plate’), and a hammock garden. The St. Regis Tropical Park, spanning over 7 thousand square meters, was created as an extension for relaxation within the 8.8 hectares of land that the St. Regis Bali Resort sits on and offers guests an additional retreat and activity within the resort. Guests can also witness the first Orchid Pavilion featuring up to 50 species of orchids. The St. Regis Bali Resort, Nusa Dua, (0361) 8478-111; www.stregis.com/bali
SURF’S UP IN UBUD
Quiksilver has opened a brand new store showcasing surf fashion and street wear products from the brands Quiksilver, Roxy, and DC on Monkey Forest Street in Ubud. The Quiksilver Ubud store uses traditional materials such as Silakarang Stone from nearby Gianyar and environmentally friendly bamboo and rattan for its interior, blending the store right in with the surrounding environment. The new Quiksilver store offers a complete selection of apparel and accessories ranging from board shorts and bikinis to T’shirts and hooded sweatshirts, as well as full range of accessories like bags and backpacks. www.quiksilver.com
Cafe Jemme offers more delicious gourmet additions on its extensive menu at affordable prices. Entrees include Garlic & Herb Baked Portobello Mushroom, Cheese & Caramelized Onion Quesadilla topped with ratatouille and fresh asparagus spears and the Jemme Classic Prawn Cocktail served with classic cocktail sauce and gazpacho sambal. For the mains there are Butter Curry of Seafood served with flakey pastry and cucumber salsa, and definitely a must try is the Oven Roasted Corn-fed Chicken for 2 - boned and roasted with fresh herbs served with cauliflower cream, cheesy mash, buttered peas and carrots and a trio of gravies. Other ‘must try’s are found under the Jemme Fruity Martinis list, namely the Choco Blackberry as well as the Apple Martini. Cafe Jemme, Jl. Raya Petitenget No.28, Kerobokan, (0361) 732-392
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Returning home to Bali with one of the culinary world’s most prestigious prizes, I Wayan Wicaya, the winner of the Global Chefs Challenge 2010, was greeted enthusiastically by friends, family and colleagues last month. The Global Chefs Challenge is the largest single chefs competition in the world, sponsored by the World Association of Chef Societies (WACS) and entered in by 88 countries in 7 seven continental regional finals. Every two years, the finalists from the seven regions of the world take to the stoves to
Aston at the Grand Kuta Hotel & Residence opens this month as a modern minimalist hotel and residence with luxurious design. Strategically located and within close reach of the Ngurah Rai International Airport, Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Denpasar, the Grand Kuta serves as a resort style residence equipped with amenities for convenience. Aston at Grand Kuta Hotel & Residence, Jl. Dewi Sri No. 8, (0361) 765-976; www.grandkuta.com
ENJOY THE SCENE
The Scene recently opened as a guesthouse-style resort where visitors can enjoy soothing spa treatments, sophisticated nail services and delectable dining atop Pecatu Hill in Uluwatu. Guests are treated to a relaxing experience at the indoor and outdoor areas of their choice, including two salons adorned with traditional crafts, a poolside area and gazebos. The Scene offers a variety of selections for couples, families and other groups plus a special bridal package to make honeymoons even more memorable. As for dining, The Scene presents a fusion of Japanese and Indonesian culinary pleasures, focusing mainly on seafood. The Scene, Jl. Labuan Sait, Uluwatu (0361) 847-0646; www.thescene-bali.com
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prepare a four-course dinner for twelve people to exacting standards. Every move is watched and judged. The results are scored by a jury of experts and the winner is the chef who has created the dishes to the highest culinary, food hygiene and preparation standards. The six other Global Finalists were from Norway, Canada, Portugal, Holland, Dubai, and Australia. I Wayan Wicaya, Executive Sous chef of Bulgari, has been leading up to this final for two years. First securing the title for Indonesia, and then winning the Global Chef Asia competition, then finally to Chile, where he has proved beyond a doubt that Indonesia’s culinary industry is producing world-class chefs. www.balichefs.com
NEW AT HELM
InterContinental Bali Resort recently announced the appointment of Phil Riley as General Manager & Regional General Manager IHG Indonesia. With over 30 years of hospitality management experience, Phil brings a meticulous understanding of luxury hotel operations to the InterContinental Bali Resort. He arrived in Bali after a 14-month tenure as General Manager of the recently opened InterContinental Asiana Saigon as well as IHG Regional General Manager Vietnam. InterContinental Bali Resort, Jalan Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran (0361) 701-888; www.interconti.com
ON THE HILL
Chateau de Bali Ungasan Luxury Villas & Medical Spa recently had its soft-opening on the island’s southern peninsula. The new 5-star luxury villas offer ultimate holiday luxury combined with personal service. The elegant contemporary villas are complete with private swimming pool, whirlpool, sauna, Balinese gazebo and lush tropical garden complemented by elite clubhouse facilities. Perched on the hill of Ungasan village and overlooking the Indian Ocean, Chateau de Bali Ungasan Luxury Villas & Medical Spa features 96 wellness ocean view villas, a medical spa, sauna in each villa, club lounge, wine bar and a health doctor to assist in detox, slimming and de-stressing programs together with a vegetarian chef who prepares healthy meals at the restaurant and for individualized nutritious programs. Chateau de Bali’s grand opening is planned for this month. Chateau de Bali Jl. Pura Masuka Ungasan, Br. Kertha Lestari, Ungasan (0361) 877-3288; www.chateaudebali.com
TO THE FIRST
Thermes Marins Bali at the Ayana Resort and Spa Bali has received the World’s Best Spa Award by the Conde Nast Traveler’s International Readers’ Survey 2010. This latest accolade adds the list of the resort’s achievements following its re-branding in May of last year. The resort will be celebrating its 1st Anniversary this April, with various attractive promotions on offer. Ayana Resort and Spa Bali, Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, (0361) 702-222 www.ayanaresort.com
The all new Bali Eco Village eco-lodge on the hills of Belok-Lauak in North Bali boasts 5 lodges, a restaurant and a spa, which is ideal for a medium sized group and is a perfect spot for nature lovers who want to experience the unspoiled nature and tranquility while enjoying all the amenities of fine lodging and dining. Their commitment is to provide guests with the vacation they desire. Adventure seekers are offered opportunities to enjoy beautiful walks and lovely hiking trails to waterfalls and many others excursions. For people seeking a tranquil setting to decompress, they offer one of the most peaceful places in Bali surrounded by impressive nature and completed by a natural spa. www.baliecovillage.com
BIG 8 REVITALIZATION
The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali announces its guest room revitalization plan that will commence in May 2010 for one year. The 8 million dollar renovation project will include a comprehensive transformation that will result in sleek and sophisticated looking guest rooms with a tropical edge. Ergonomic designed furnishings and personal touches will take every conceivable guest need into careful consideration. Guest rooms will feature the new generation of Heavenly Bed, a spacious 1.37 meter bed in the double-double rooms, I-pod dock with alarm clock, bedside master switch board, audio visual entertainment port, extended bathroom complete with standing shower and a separate bathtub, double vanity, 37” flat screen television, personalized in-room shop with lifestyle products set along with a new ergonomic refreshment center for convenience, as well as dual wardrobe areas with ample of space and drawers to store belongings. www.westinbalitransformation.com
Sour Sally Frozen Yogurt Boutique recently opened its second outlet at the Discovery Shopping Mall Unit MG – 1 after successfully opening 20 of its frozen yogurt outlets in various youth lifestyle venues in Indonesia, and its first in Bali at the Mal Bali Galeria Food Terrace 1A08. Non-fat frozen yogurt flavors include Original Plain, Green Tea, Pinklicious (Strawberry), Twist (Original Plain and Green Tea or Original Plain and Strawberry). 20 toppings are available. www.mysoursally.com
WHEN SPORT AND SPIRIT BLEND
Yoga boasts a very long history. It predates religions in human history. Its introduction was estimated to be 3,000 years ago. This has been proved by archeological findings such as effigies showing various Yogic postures. .
PHOTO BY VINCENT HERRY
of the religion.
midst a hectic world and in an age when time seems to fly much faster, us humans long for a moment of respite. Something that will keep us healthy in this era full of pollution. One option is general physical exercise,
and another is Yoga. It is no wonder that Yoga classes have rapidly flourished recently. To talk of balance between the body and mind, think back to the ancient Latin quotation “Mens sana in corpore sano,” or literally, a sound mind is a sound body, and vice versa. Happiness is in the mind and a clear mind comes from a healthy body. So if one wants to be happy they need to heal the physique and mind. This happiness starts from a clear mind and a healthy body. One way of achieving this balance is by doing yoga, a way that has gained much popularity in recent times. Yoga boasts a very long history. It predates religions in human history. Its introduction was estimated to be 3,000 years ago, in Harappa and Mahenjo Daro, two ancient Indian cities near today’s India, Nepal, and Pakistan. This has been proved by archeological findings such as effigies in showing various Yogic postures. This region is known as where the oldest of religions, namely Hinduism, originated. Its existence then unified, thus coming to the conclusion by many that yoga is part Yoga is derived from the Sanskrit ‘Yuj’ that means ‘to relate’. Hinduism itself has teachings are connected to Yoga, namely Catur Yoga or the four ways to connect oneself with the Divine. The ways include what is known as Bhakti Yoga, Karma Yoga, Jnana Yoga and Raja Yoga. Bhakti Yoga is a way that implements the
PHOTO BY DONNY CAHYADI
Hotels package yoga into their attractive programs. The Sanur Beach Hotel for instance, provides yoga every morning for an hour at 9 a.m. If you miss the morning class, you can always catch the afternoon session.
Usually Yoga will start off with a brief meditation, breath control, and then enter into the main movements, then is again closed by breath control and meditation.
senses, applied in love and devotion and with profuse prayer. Karma Yoga is a way by the use of labor. Doing something and giving sincerely without expecting returns. Many Balinese have chosen to implement this and the previous way in their daily lives. Their lives are profuse with prayers and offerings to connect with the Divine. The third way, Jnana Yoga, is by offering knowledge to society and its emphasis is on logic. The fourth, Raja Yoga, is through self-control and restraint. Followers of Raja Yoga are
referred to as Yogin. In India the Yogin enter forests for seclusion and perform extraordinary physical feats. Through modern times, Raja Yoga came to be known merely as Yoga. According to historical records, Raja Yoga or yoga as we know it was introduced by a Yogi by the name of Rsi Patanjali around the year 200-100 BC. He was known as a yoga reformist, due to his rendering of the physical exercise learned more systematically and structurally through his books Yoga Sutra and the Astangga Yoga system. Before the era
of Rsi Patanjali, Yoga was taught verbally and handed down through the generations from teacher to disciple. The Yogi, in executing their acrobaticlike moves, goes through various training to achieve amazing physical flexibility. They not only conduct physical exercises and spiritual training but also fast, avoiding pleasure, and seek places far from busy activities to help concentrate and deter them from worldly desires. Yet to learn yoga nowadays you do not need the old ways. What becomes the emphasis on yoga today is to execute
postures and control over breath and positions, as well as controlling the mind and focusing it towards peace. Yoga as we know it now is movements and postures that put forth discipline in obtaining physical and mental health. Usually a movement will start off with a brief meditation, breath control, and then enter into the main movements, then is closed by breath control and meditation. When factors such as space and time restrict muscle stretching and such, then one can try the simplest of forms, through pranayama or breath control. Controlling inhalation and exhalation, as well as the prolonged retention of breath in the lungs eases in relaxation. It is scientifically explained that pranayama provides more oxygen to the bloodstream. It also aids the mind and senses as a
cooling down effect. The exercise has recently become very popular. It is not difficult to find places providing yoga classes. Now nearly all hotels provide wellness programs and yoga on their guest activities lists. They also provide yoga instructors from within Bali and even abroad. Hotels package yoga into their attractive programs. The Sanur Beach Hotel for instance, provides yoga every morning for an hour at 9 a.m. If you miss the morning class, you can always catch the afternoon session. Participation is Rp. 100,000 per class. But frequent participants can enroll in the annual membership for Rp. 3.5 million. Sri Asta Kesari, a yoga instructor at the Sanur Beach Hotel who is also the Guest Activity and Recreation Manager explains
Dr. Somvir, founder of Bali International Yoga Festival (above and below), leads the Bali India Foundation, an organization which opens Yoga classes to the public as part of their activities. The foundation publishes a Yoga periodical and it organizes its second Bali International Yoga Festival this month.
PHOTOS COURTESY BALI INDIA FOUNDATION
that guest enthusiasm over the activity is relatively high. This is shown from the high revenue generated from the programs. Not many movements are taught. And this goes back to the saying that it is better to do 15 minutes a day and do it routinely rather than exercising an hour for several days and then stop. Sri said that what is essential in exercising yoga is not the intricate acrobatic movements but those that suit the body and those which touch the spiritual aspect. It seems that this is greatly influenced by the religious aura of Bali. In Balinese culture, nearly all of it can be connected to spirituality. Yoga is also done massively in Bali. Among those that have contributed to the development of yoga in Bali is the Bali India Foundation. They open yoga classes for all ages, regardless of religion and nationality, with several schedule options.
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In 2009 they held the Bali International Yoga Festival. This year they’re doing it again for the second time. Public enthusiasm for yoga has rapidly increased. Now nearly every hotel can be found to provide yoga classes. In Indonesia, yoga has recently become a part of the lifestyle adopted by the modern human, especially in Bali. The Balinese in older times had also adopted yoga in their daily lives, not only from a philosophical standpoint, as a way to connect with the Divine, but also from a ritualistic standpoint. Balinese Hindus have exercised yoga since early age. They attend temple prayers and sit in what is known as the asana posture. For the Balinese, asana is the crossed-legged posture for the men, and to sit with the knees bent and folded for the women. The second is pranayama, the control of breath between inhaling,
holding and exhaling. This is followed by certain mantras that aid in concentration. Third is the cleansing of palms that also symbolize the cleansing of the body. Prayers are executed in the asana position. Mantras are sounded eloquently by controlling the breath so even though prayers go on for several minutes, participants do not feel the slightest exhaustion. No rushing to get up after prayers can be seen, but they orderly wait for the blessing sprinkles of holy water. Nevertheless, now we can find yoga in a more specific form. People don’t say that they are ‘conducting yoga’ when they pray at a temple. Or, ‘doing yoga’ when they stretch their muscles before a jog. But they ‘do yoga’ when they sit on mats, in loose attire, in a cozy place, and start executing stretching to intricate postures. ■ Text and photos by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati
STARS FOR EVERY SEASON
Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique recently inaugurated its International Star Guest Chef Promotion Series when former chefowner of Au Crocodile in Strasbourg, France, 3-Star Michelin Chef Emile Jung, visited in Bali and together with Mozaic chef-owner Chris Salans put on their toques to present two evenings of an exclusive culinary journey.
the announcement of the event, seats were fully booked with the guest lists filled with the island’s personages of industry and high society. On normal days, Mozaic only accepts 60 guests a night; 30 indoor seats in an open-air traditional Balinese pavilion and 30 outdoor garden seats scattered within the garden (not available
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he special event on February 19 and 20 was declared an accustomed, but obviously anticipated, sellout at Mozaic. Within only a matter of days since
when raining or during rainy season, which was the case on this occasion). The fabulous success of 3 Michelin Star guest chef Emile Jung collaborating with chef Chris Salans in developing the menu and exchanging culinary ideas, was just the start of a series of promotions and culinary workshops that are to feature acclaimed chefs from around the world. The two inaugural dinners at Mozaic also featured a pairing of wines from Alsace (on the border between France and Germany) where Emile Jung hails from, and the culinary journey was the fruit of this
extraordinary exchange of ideas from the two masters. And Emile Jung adds to this a new Asian experience to his repertoire of tastes and techniques. The two special nights presented a menu by the master chefs featuring eloquently French menu titles with descriptions in English, and an optional pairing of the Alsace wines listed together with such delights as Napoleon of Langoustines and fresh crab meat with a salad of mache (paired with a 2007 Trimbach Riesling), Indian Rock Lobster and Golden Vermicelli with Pink
Located just outside the charming community of Ubud, the intimate gardenset Mozaic Restaurant has become a destination restaurant for discriminating diners from around the world.
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2010 27
Chefs Chris Salans and Emile Jung in the kitchen.
Peppercorns (paired with a 2006 Les Princes Abbes Pinot Gris), Coral Trout and Baby Calamari in an Albertine Vermouth Sauce (paired with a 2006 Grand Cru Moenchberg Pinot Gris), Crispy Pigeon and Foie Gras with Savoy Cabbage and ‘du Puy’ Lentils (paired with a 2006 Grenache & Carignan Syrah), Frozen Parfait of Fresh Seasonal Cherries and Kirsch with Crispy Pistachios (paired with a 2002 Gewurztraminer) and a Terrine of Melon and Strawberries in a Fresh Apple Gelée (paired with a 2007 Princes des Abbes Muscat), and petits fours concluding the experience. Emile Jung, in a brief meeting with the media prior heading to the kitchen with Salans on the dinner series’ finale,
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mentioned his hometown Alsace, and the wines that he brought together with him on his visit to present in the culinary journey. One among the interesting facts, due to the location of Alsace being smack-dab in a region bordering France and Germany, the cultures, was that the accent and food are a fine amalgamation between the two countries. Indeed food and culture represent each other in interesting ways. And this was reflected through the names of the wines he brought – a bit of Bavarian twang along with strong French based characteristics. Say, “Grand Cru Moenchberg,” or “Domaines Schlumberger” for instance. Emile was born in Masevaux, a picturesque Alsatian town at the foothills
of the Vosges Mountains. After having completed his secondary education at 17, Emile became an apprentice in the restaurant business and spent a year learning the trade at the famous restaurant of the Maison Rouge Hotel in Strasbourg. He then worked in Lyon, a city well-known for its excellent gastronomy, at the Michelin two-star restaurant La Mere Guy. There he discovered the classic “Grand Cuisine” - superb local products and a great regional tradition. He also met Paul Bocuse, and credits him with stimulating his imagination and his interest in fine cuisine. Due to his eclectic training and his love for quality products, Emile Jung is always seeking innovations that add a personal style to his cuisine. He believes
in harmonious dishes and respect for natural products, and feels, “wine epitomizes the genius of cooking.” With an addition of daily touches to traditional dishes, he masterfully commands tasteful combinations. Poetic visual presentations of each plate offer final proof that Emile Jung is not only an extraordinary chef but an author as well. At his own Au Crocodile in Strasbourg France he was awarded 3 Stars by the famous Michelin Guide.
FRENCH TIRES TO CUISINE?
Chefs the world over covet the Michelin star – the ‘Oscar of the restaurant world’, a recognition of premium talent for those who spend their lives slicing and dicing. Michelin stars are awarded annually and published in the Michelin Red Guide, the bible for gourmands the world over. First published in 1900 by Andre Michelin, a founding brother of the Michelin Tire Company, the Guide was designed for road trips, offering advice on car maintenance, lodgings, restaurants, even the location of public toilets. For the next twenty years it was given away free and covered only the French region of Europe. In 1920 the Michelin brothers started charging for the guide and in 1926 the star rating was introduced to measure
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
the first restaurant in Southeast Asia to be recognized by the prestigious Traditions et Qualité association as a member of ‘Les Grande Tables Du Monde’ (The Grand Tables of the World), joining an exclusive membership including the world’s most famous restaurants such as Lucas Carton (Alain Senderens), Le Louis XV and Plaza Athénée (Alain Ducasse), Guy Savoy (Guy Savoy) and The French Laundry (Thomas A Keller). Awarded a place amongst the top 100 best restaurants of the world in the 2009 San Pellegrino Guide and top 5 and top 6 best restaurants in Asia by the the quality of cooking in listed dining establishments. The Michelin Guide uses a system of symbols to identify the best hotels and restaurants within each comfort and price category. For restaurants, Michelin stars are based on five criteria: quality of the products, mastery of flavor and cooking, “personality” of the cuisine, value for money, and consistency between visits. Michelin stars are awarded to restaurants offering the finest cooking, regardless of cuisine style. Stars represent only what is on the plate. They do not take into consideration interior decoration, service quality or table settings. Today the guide is written for twelve countries, with New York City and San Francisco having been introduced in 2005, the first cities outside of Europe. Inspections are anonymous, once every eighteen months, and restaurant entries are not paid for, claiming to ensure unbiased reviews. Although there had been a much circulated controversy in its star rating system, notably accusations of bias (published by a French company, towards French cuisine, etc.), it remains a coveted title in the culinary world and a respected source among gourmands. Check out www.michelinguide.com for more info.
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Miele Guide in 2008 and 2009, Mozaic affirms its right at the top of the ‘must’ list for gourmands.
SEASONS TO SAVOR
Mozaic Restaurant also finds complements in its Mozaic Exclusive Catering, The Mozaic Lounge and its Workshop, a culinary school by Chris Salans with the German brand high-end domestic and kitchen appliances, Miele.
THE INTIMATE GARDEN
Located just outside the charming community of Ubud, the intimate gardenset Mozaic Restaurant has become a destination restaurant for discriminating diners from around the world. Chef Salans blends the best of local and international ingredients, prepared and presented with a modern and innovative approach associating usual and unusual flavors to sublimate the products presented. This unique cuisine has been highly praised amongst others in Condé Nast Traveler, New York Magazine, National Geographic Traveler, Times Asia, The International Herald Tribune and the New York Times, and in the last few years Mozaic has also been bestowed with the honor of the Award of Excellence by Wine Spectator for its wine cellar. Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique was
During the brief meeting with Chris and Emile, Mozaic General Manager Nicola Scaramuzzino mentioned that they’ll also be introducing a Facebook page where promotional updates and program schedules would be posted. And he also mentioned of the forthcoming series to be featured at Mozaic throughout the year, with two events for each season. As this goes to press, leaked were hints on the Olivier Berte Technical Training series scheduled somewhere this month. For more information and updates on program schedules, contact firstname.lastname@example.org ■ Text by Nyoman Ari Gunadi Courtesy photos ■ Mozaic Restaurant, Lounge, Workshop & Catering Gastronomiques, Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud, (0361) 975-768; www.mozaic-bali.com
Bali & Beyond recently sat down with the namesake owner of Murni’s Warung, one of the restaurants hailing from the early days of Ubud’s tourism growth that has endured and progressed until now, to talk about her recollections on Ubud’s development.
Ni Wayan Murni in early 1970 (above) and the entrance gate to Murni’s shop and warung (below). Here one can witness her large antique collection.
itting on the lounge listening to the sound of Blues, it took me back to Ella Fitzgerald’ 30s. But glancing to my left at the scenic high ledge of
I myself was at this time honored by the acquaintance of Murni, owner of Murni’s Warung, one of the restaurants dating back to the early days of Ubud’s tourism, which has endured and progressed until now. “Forgive me, I just got back from ngayah,” Murni said. She seemed to be in a bit of a rush, catching up to her appointment with me. Just like any other Balinese woman, it was her obligation to go to the temple for ngayah, a communal activity among village members where they gather together to do things such as temple cleansings and ceremonial preparations. Ngayah could last for several days. It’s no easy task being a Balinese woman. They not only readily go and serve for ngayah at temples but also take care of social and family activities such as weddings, ngaben cremations, and rites of passage for new family members, as well as other similar rituals in a banjar community. Ni Wayan Murni is 64 now, her hair grey and with wrinkles and lines on her face, yet her spirit and enthusiasm for life hasn’t diminished a bit. She has five children and eleven grandchildren, several businesses that must be looked after, including Murni’s Warung, a large antique collection and her help on a new book Secret of Bali,
foliage and the rushing river down below me, plus the waitresses clad in Balinese attire, I was beamed back to reality – in Ubud. The place had just been hailed as “The Best City in Asia” by readers of the Conde Nest Traveller.
Murni’s Warung in early 1970s (right) and Murni’s Warung today (above). To the left and right of the warung there had been many changes, but one thing that hasn’t changed is the lush valley and sound of the rushing river that reminds many of the Ubud of yore.
Fresh light on the morning of the world. “Back then there was only the Tjampuhan Hotel in Ubud,” said Murni. Murni’s business instinct only started when she bought a piece of land not far from the hotel that was owned by the Ubud royalty and started to sell paintings and some souvenirs. More than a few guests came in to the warung to shop and look around. It came to be that they did not only pay attention to her wares but also her dining table, the only dining table in the space. “They said, ‘I want this’. They were hungry and wanted to eat. I said, ‘but this is my lunch – not for sale,’” she recalls. This was what sparked her initial idea to start selling food. At the beginning she took a bit of her mother’s wares at the Ubud market and transferred them to her warung. Eventually she started to learn to make sandwiches. The western snacks she learned from her guests who later on became her close friends. Murni was resilient. At 4 o’clock in the
morning she would leave for Denpasar to get the freshest bread, tomatoes, and ingredients that at that time were not yet available in Ubud. At 9 she would be back in Ubud and prepare to open her warung. She repeated these similar chores every day. Back then she had her two cousins to help her out. Business was quite good. One month later she had added 3 more tables to her space. “I learned a lot from my guests. I named my menu items with the names of my friends who taught me the recipes. Mary Sandwich for instance, was due to Mary teaching me to make sandwiches,” recalls Murni. “I was lucky to have gotten this space,” she continued. “I bought it in 1974 and set up this warung. Starting with one level, I gradually expanded downwards. Some of it had been retained, such as the footpath that leads down to the river. Back then there was no such thing as channeled water or water companies; there was not even electricity in Ubud at that time!”
To the left and right of the warung there have been many changes in line with the rapid progress over the years together with the increasingly busy Ubud. But one thing that has not changed is the lush valley and the sound of the rushing river that reminds many of the Ubud of yore. Many guests are impressed with the warung. They somehow find constant déjà vu and live their memories there. Many older tourists revisit and find a different and changed Ubud. Some of them are knowledgeable about the situation and the changes and understand that change is inevitable, but others are disappointed. They imagine the ‘village’ of Ubud, yet in reality find the ‘city of Ubud. The street of Jalan Bisma for instance. Murni has vivid memories of the road as a once lonely footpath amongst a vast spread of rice paddies. That frequently muddy path during the rainy season has since changed into a hard paved road, and the rice fields have turned into an array of cafes, art shops, and hotels on both sides.
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oto She still keeps this ph Murni in early 1970. who were the ﬁrst ple of her friends, the cou warung customers.
Many trees have been felled without replanting schemes to follow. Lots of garbage is scattered around the street with the lack of consciousness to keep a cleaner environment. A lot of understanding must be planted into the psyche of the locals. “We are proud to have been called The Best City in Asia, but let’s not let us ‘sink’ underneath the pride,” solemnly advised Murni. “Over pride can lead to conceit. And when we reach this stage, we’ll forget that the true predicate given is a challenge for us in maintaining it.” “We must keep on striving to become the best and remain the best,” Murni added with enthusiasm. Enthusiasm that should be in the hearts of us all. At her late years she remains energetic and engaged
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in all sorts of activities, despite her current health ups and downs. This year she was supposed to head to San Francisco for an exhibition of her antique collection. Yet she had to cancel due to health. She has done several exhibitions before, meeting up with likeminded collectors from the world over. “I want to have a museum to display my antiques,” said Murni. “Many of our youth do not understand the significance of their nation’s past. Then they’d be surprised when they go abroad and see their ancestral wealth on display there, as I was to see the Sembiran weavings (from North Bali) in the Netherlands. Not even the Sembiran people themselves know much about their own heritage.” Her dream of building a museum is
not easily made into reality in a flick of a wrist. It’s like she never imagined that Ubud would become what it is today, she also never thought that she would have become a collector and have the chance to travel to other regions. Evening neared in, yet Ubud remained lively if not livelier. Several guests started to come and be seated at the dining tables. It wasn’t such a busy day, but they seemed to enjoy the composed, comforting and hospitable Ubud nuance. ■ Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati Photo courtesy Jonathan Copeland and Murni’s Warung
■ Murni’s Warung, Campuan, Ubud (0361) 975-233; www.murnis.com
STUDY AND ENJOY PARADISE
Mikael Kiuru of Asia Exchange Ltd. recently sent us the following information on an interesting exchange study program for university students who want to experience Bali. Their studies concentrate on learning Bahasa Indonesia along with the local culture and customs. This way it aims to bring foreigners to Indonesia who are not just interested in partying for a few weeks and going home, but those who are really interested in the country, its culture and its people. Is it possible to combine studying and life in paradise?
eople visiting Bali are often young, energetic and enthusiastic. Eager to experience and learn more about life in a new environment, they come
absence from their studies in the name of just a longer vacation. But what if the two could be combined? Nowadays, an increasing number of students complete part of their studies abroad. At the university level a study abroad period is not only a vital part of a student’s degree but also an asset to a CV, because it helps the job applicant stand out. In the past, student migration has concentrated towards Europe, the United States and Australia, but during
the past few years Asia has become one of the most popular destinations for studying abroad and thus challenged the old favorites. While major reasons are undoubtedly the rising economic powers and the larger role of Asian nations on the global market, more personal agendas underlie. Most of us who have visited South East Asia as tourist or backpacker can describe the experience as being in a paradise on earth: living costs are low, traveling within
to Bali to surf, have fun and enjoy the sun. A large portion of them are students taking a break from studying in the form of a short vacation or a longer trip. The latter choice is often a tempting one, but most students find it impossible to justify a long
A large number of young visitors to Bali are students taking a break from studying in the form of a short vacation or a longer trip.
Students who have used the opportunity to experience a student exchange program often state that the study period has been the most fruitful experience of their lives.
and between countries is convenient, the local people are warmhearted and gentle and the rich culture amaze the traveler with their never-ending wonders. Needless to say, the growing economic importance of Asia on a global scale makes the continent a good destination for traveling with regard to studies and future career opportunities. People who possess firsthand knowledge of Asia naturally have an edge when applying for jobs, not only at multinational companies but also governmental organizations. A study abroad period benefits one’s future career and provides lifelong memories. Students who have used the opportunity to experience a student exchange program often state that the study period has been the most fruitful experience of their lives so far. The only problem is that the amount of study places for exchange students at Asian universities are often very limited compared to the demand. Universities’ exchange study
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agreements usually only provide study places to a few selected applicants, so finding a study abroad place independently as a free-mover can be a long and unpredictable road. Udayana University, located in Denpasar - the capital of Bali, has established a new study program called “Bali International Program on Asian Studies”, which includes courses in economics, tourism, law, culture and language. This 4 month study program is given in English and all the people who fulfill the minimum requirements are warmly welcome to participate. Most of the applicants are university students in their home countries, and by completing this study program they receive a respectable amount of credit to add to their university degrees. In contrast, some of the students taking part in the program are not currently studying at a university in their home country but can make use of the earned credits if they choose to enroll in the future.
The tuition fees are very affordable – the costs are only 10-20% of what a semester payment is in a Western country. Applying for this study program has been made possible by Udayana University’s partner Asia Exchange, which handles the laborious paper work and provides students with useful information ranging from visa procedures to accommodation options. This way the applicant can enroll for the study abroad period with ease and concentrate on more important things, such as enjoying the once-in-a-lifetime experience. Interested? Fill out an application and pack up your bags… You will receive a response about being approved for the study program within a week of sending in your application. Grab you experience – in and outside the classroom! Visit the Asia Exchange website at: www.asiaexchange.org ■ Photos Nyoman Ari Gunadi
OUT OF VILLA, INTO VALLEY
The Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan lets guests experience A Day in The Life of a Balinese Farmer, which includes a morning trek through the Ayung River valley, a chance to get shin-deep in the paddy fields, and to learn traditional agrarian techniques.
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greets guests upon approach to the compound – a steep ravine filled with lush tropical foliage bordering the blue cloudfilled skyline, rushing flows of the river below, and the terraced paddies that are still distinctive of the region. Entering the compound, all one can encounter is a bale with a thatched roof that looms tall as if aloft in the trees. Staff then readily welcome guests and escort them across this massive wooden bridge that leads them to the lotus pond, and no sort of reception or lobby in sight. This ‘pleasant bewilderment’ was the literal objective of the resort’s architect;
t was a beautiful early Thursday morning in January, when we together with several colleagues headed up to Sayan. Entrance into this resort’s realm has always been full of dramatic yet solemn ‘wows’. Its striking setting
John Heah of Heah & Company (London), who created a completely new image for the Balinese hotel. The Four Seasons Resort at Sayan is a striking piece of aerial sculpture, the huge elliptical lotus pond sitting above a base structure that appears like a romantic ruin set within this spectacular Ayung valley landscape. He also made sure that his dramatic design would sit seamlessly within the environment, through intact natural elements. And this large lotus pool has since become the central appeal of the whole site. The site is a bowl. It’s almost like a bowl of rice because there are paddy fields down there, everywhere. One cannot but just pause for a minute, or more, at this man-made lotus pond, which also happens to form the roof of the main building. Here it enables guests to take in the 360-degree view of the green
After breakfast and a demonstration, guests get to tryout the tradition and have the opportunity to plant rice seeds.
The day’s adventures end with a traditional lunch of Nasi Campur, Indonesian “mixed rice”, enjoyed at a secluded bale along the river.
gorge. As a tropical retreat, everything about Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan spells romance, and it has served as a passionate setting for various newlyweds and couples. After the vista pause, guests at last ‘find’ the lobby downstairs, directly underneath the pond. It was here that the day’s adventure began. Despite the quirky title given above, the excursion that takes guests into the paddy field where they learn about traditional and organic grown herbs and spices, field irrigation, the best kinds of paddy and rice seedlings to be planted, and how to plant them, is certainly on the more luxurious side. An arduous trek for some, yes. Muddy shins and soles and hands, yes. But a full range of luxury features keeps bringing you back and reminding you that you are still a consistently pampered guest of the
resort. However for some other guests, the break away from the facility and resort compounds and getting closer to nature and the Bali highlands’ outback, might spell ‘relief’, ‘escape’ and ‘insightful.’ The Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan has provided the opportunity to its guests to experience ‘a day in the life of a Balinese farmer’ since April last year. It gives guests a glimpse into the values that run through the island’s agricultural society. Although many lives of the locals have shifted, especially in the highly populated southern parts of the island, many areas such as the uplands where paddies are lush retain the agrarian ways. The program begins with a morning trek through the Ayung River valley. Our reliable guide for the day, courteous Four Seasons staff, Sayan local and mother of two, Ketut Sariani, showed us past the compound
and river and to the organic gardens with the various names of herbs labeled at each plant, and we quizzed each other on the local, Indonesian and English names of each. She won. We continued to traverse the picturesque terraced rice fields and jungle paths leading to the banks of the Ayung. Along the way, we witnessed the rustic activities of the local farmers and learned about the complex irrigation system used in the paddy fields, known locally as ‘Subak’. After working up an appetite on the trek breakfast was served at a private bale, overlooking mirror-like water surfaces of the terraces on the southern rim of the resort’s complex. We had tea boiled over a wood fire, together with a fresh breakfast. After the break and a demonstration, we had the opportunity to plant rice seeds. Balinese farmers are viewed as artists who sculpt the rice terraces. Pak Wayan Mudra showed us the ploughs and the way to level the mud to make way for the seedlings. We all put ourselves to the test afterwards. Pak Wayan also told us how to choose the right young coconut – not too ripe and not too young. Although the coconuts
of recycled paper and natural ingredients with pages filled with photographs from our Back to luxury and pampering... A luxury spa treatment inspired by the simple ‘batukali’ river stone. adventure, as well as recipes of our lunch for us to try to cook and enjoy at home. In the album you’ll also find a “Certificate of Achievement”, certifying that you’ve “gone through an intensive familiarization program with the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan’s farmer team… and are were already picked for us that day (how convenient), he mentioned that guests are welcom to have a go at climbing up a tree and picking their own! Well, if the trek and the rice planting weren’t strenuous enough, for some, that is. Following the refreshment break, with a dash of lemon with the swigs of relief, it was time to get back to luxurious pampering. Relaxing the sore muscles and scrubbing away the dirt of a hard day’s labor (the real Balinese farmer would perhaps chuckle at this). Instead of bathing in the river, you can indulge in a spa treatment that includes the application of fresh herbal blends to the hair and scalp, an invigorating river stone scrub to revive the skin, and a soothing Balinese massage complete with fragrant coconut oil and freshly grated ginger paste to warm and relax the body. Luxury spa treatment… inspired by the simple ‘batukali’ river stone. The day’s adventures end with a traditional lunch of Nasi Campur, Indonesian “mixed rice”. The meal is enjoyed at a more secluded bale along
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the river. The lunch wooden bento-style presentation of its Nasi Campur delivers steamed Balinese red rice, “Be Pasih Panggang” grilled fish served with the notorious spicy Balinese sauce of ‘sambal matah’, “Kare Ayam” braised chicken in curry sauce with eggplant and lime leaf, “Tempe Manis” wok-fried fermented bean cake with galangal and sweet soya sauce, and “Sayur Urap” Balinese style vegetables with roasted coconut, chili, shallots, and garlic. The latter consists of a specific mix called Suna Cekuh, comprised of chopped shallots, garlic, wild ginger, hot chili and vegetable oil, crushed black peppercorn and turmeric. All that with a fine assortment of various ‘sambal’ for you to further engage in discussion about. And there’s the favorite ‘kolak pisang’ stewed banana dessert and fruit skewers for dessert. Ibu Ketut Sariani accompanied us throughout our hearty meal as we enjoyed conversation and discussed further what we might had missed out on in the field. In time, we were presented a unique memento, an album interestingly made up
now certified to be a Balinese farmer. Congratulations.” Show it to the next Balinese farmer you meet in the rice field. Wait for the grin. Or better still, to your friends and family back home, so they’ll want to have a go. Another great activity on offer at the Four Seasons Resort at Sayan is the Tri Hita Karana. Borrowed from the Balinese philosophy of human beings’ harmonious relationship with God, nature, and with other human beings, it is translated into a package that includes a yoga class, a garden tour and a spa treatment. Find out more on how to have fun and get down and dirty in the paddies – in style, as well as on other adventurous, interesting and insightful packages with luxury services, from Four Seasons Resorts Bali. ■ Text and photos by Nyoman Ari Gunadi ■ Four Seasons Resorts Bali (0361) 701-010 ■ Four Seasons Bali at Sayan, Ubud (0361) 977-577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan
SAWU AND RAIJUA: A TALE FROM ISLANDS ON THE RIM
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Meals are served and drinks are passed around... Raja Ama Doko Lomi Djara and group are indulging delightedly in the English veal dish (the last on the ship) and the quality European beverages. Cheers all around on board the Endeavour that night in September of 1770. When Raja Ama Doko left the Endeavour, Captain James Cook ordered his crew to fire off nine salvos in honor of the king.
prior on board the Endeavour. Sitting cross-legged on woven mats, no less than 36 dishes were served in containers that most likely were made of lontar palm leaves. In them were rice, frogs cooked in alcohol, and much more. Captain Cook was contented with the treats that evening, as the sailing crew could not even finish the feast.
he following morning the captain and his crew were invited on land to a dinner hosted by Raja Ama Doko. The party was arranged especially for the crew of the Endeavour in response to the hospitality they received the day
shape (the Endeavour had hit a reef three months prior at the Great Barrier). They even hoped to discover another paradise like Tahiti, which they had encountered the previous year. Captain James Cook, known for his diplomacy and avoiding the use of violence, tried to win the heart of Raja Ama Doko Lomi Djara, the king of Seba, which today is the main town on the island of Sawu. His goal was none other than to secure supplies for his crew. The process of obtaining the rations was quite complicated. After going through a process that lasted several days, at last the captain’s wish was fulfilled. He was able to load to his ship with buffaloes, goats, poultry, eggs, and more that were sufficient for the rest of his journey. The Endeavour could then finally continue its journey back home to England and bring the news of the discovery of a new continent, Australia. Thanks to the hospitality of the Savunese! And that’s what we can read from this global voyager’s log. But unfortunately, nowadays hardly any of the Savunese knows about this historical event between their island and the discovery of the continent to the south. Moreover, this historical event must be quoted from the notes of the explorer, as the only possible evidence on the island is a carving depicting a European sailing ship and an inscription underneath it. The Endeavour, perhaps? Alas, no one can positively explain, as the inscription can no longer be deciphered. But Captain Cook and his crew had indeed mentioned their visit to the Namata village located south of Seba where the carving lies…
THE ISLAND OF SAWU AND THE DISCOVERY OF AUSTRALIA
Captain James Cook has gone down in the world’s sailing history with his “first fleet” and as the “discoverer” of the Australian Continent (as well as the “discoverer” of the Hawaiian Islands and the first to map New Zealand). He had just left Botany Bay, where his botanist had discovered a unique specimen when he and his legendary HMS Endeavour crew “discovered” Sawu Island (roughly five months after the discovery of Australia). Sawu is geographically located north of Australia and indeed lies in the route where the captain journeyed to return home to Europe. Coincidentally, the Endeavour encountered a Sawu Island that was strikingly still green (though it hasn’t received a single drop of rain in the last seven months). From aboard the vessel could be seen villages and livestock. It was at this time when the Endeavour was in urgent need of replenishing its onboard supplies. Many of its crew had fallen ill and were in bad
‘SAWU’, ‘SAVU’, ‘SABU’, OR ‘HAWU’?
“What’s in a name?” goes Shakespeare. And yes, names can lead to confusion. Especially when one has
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The lontar palm remains to thrive in dry climates. So it is considered the tree of life among the Sawu, Raijua and Rote societies. From this tree can be harvested refreshing and energy boosting drinks from the sabu syrup. It is said that when given this syrup to drink, people can live only having one meal for a whole day.
so many! So let’s first clarify the name of this island. This island we know as Sawu is also referred to as Savu, Sabu and Hawu. All refer to the same island located 15 hours by ferry from Kupang. The difference is in the tongue, as Sawu is the Indonesian name while Savu is English. And Sabu is said to be from the pronunciation of the Dutch, Hawu being the original name.
The island of Sawu is located between Timor and the Island of Sumba, right in the Sawu Sea in the province of East Nusa Tenggara. Overall, it is at the southernmost region of the Indonesian archipelago. It borders directly with Australia in the south. The climate is largely influenced by the neighboring continent. This can be seen from the intensity of rainfall, which is at a minimum (sometimes only 20 days of rain in a period of three months in the wet season). And the weather conditions in the neighboring country superficially ripple over to the island of lontar palms. The cold season there would also cause cold and dry natural conditions in Sawu and Raijua. The earth also resembles the red dirt of the Australian outback.
Life on Sawu, as well as on Raijua, is traditional, although locals wearing traditional clothing in daily life have already become rare. Though contact with the outside world can be said to be at a minimum (ferry connections to Kupang are only twice a week, while flight schedules are very indefinite), the locals in all their limitations have managed to rapidly adopt the way of life of their neighbors. Motorcycles (with their loud and sound polluting noise) as well as cellular mobile phones are two things that are ‘in’ with the local people. Yet apart from this their lives there are still relatively natural and laid back. Electricity in Seba on the island of Sawu for instance (divided into four districts), only flows at night. Even Seba, which acts as
SELDOM WRITTEN ABOUT, LIKEWISE VISITED
One of the attractions of Sawu and Raijua (its western neighboring island) actually lies in the scarcity of available information about the island itself. You will hardly find writings of it, brochures or photography. Secondly, its remote position also lures the adventurous to go and explore it.
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One of the attractions of Sawu and Raijua (its western neighboring island) actually lies in the scarcity of available information about the island itself. You will hardly find writings of it, brochures or photography. Secondly, its remote position also lures the adventurous to go and explore it.
families on the island! The rest are Catholic, Protestant and Jingitiu (the native religion of the Sawu and Raijua societies).
THE TREE OF LIFE
The economic life here is leveraged by the seaweed cultivations that for the past several years have gained relatively good value. This is what breathes life into the people’s lives. Previously the people of Sawu and Raijua relied only on their lontar palms. God endowed sustenance on the arid lands with these plants.
the capital, is only comprised of two rows of pot-holed roads along 150 meters with food stalls and five-and-dime stores on the sides. Lodgings, as far as we found, were only two, both in Seba. Apart from that, you would have to stay at a local’s house. On the island of Raijua, which is populated by approximately 7,000 families, things are even simpler. No electricity. There is only one five-and-dime store and no food stalls whatsoever on the island. There is also no established lodging there. But we could stay at Bapak Hiriloji’s house, which only recently started to receive guests, or at the house of Bapak Daga. If you’re looking for Muslim cuisine, the family of Bapak Ismail, a public junior high school (SMP) teacher, can provide you with it as there are only three Muslim
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The lontar palm remains to thrive in dry climates. So it is considered the tree of life among the Sawu, Raijua and Rote societies. From this tree can be harvested refreshing and energy boosting drinks from the sabu syrup. It is said that when given this syrup to drink, the people can live only having one meal for a whole day. The leaves can be made into food and beverage containers, roofing material, and can also function as fertilizer. The midribs of the tree can be made into partitions, fencing, and firewood. Back in olden times, the leaves were also used as natural clothing fiber! Its other uses include material for the famous stringed musical instrument iconic to the area (called ‘sasando’), fans, ropes, and even cigarette rolls! And its tree stem can be made into central pillars for houses. It is also said that when harvests of other crops fail (the other part of their diet is comprised of ground nuts), a family could live on the fermented drink of tuak or sabu sugar derived from only 2-3 lontar palms. Such is the endowment of nature in the multifunctional form of a single palm. Sawu’s population exceeds that of Timor, which is notably not as arid.
NUSA TENGGARA TIMUR
RAIJUA – ANIMISTIC, PROSCRIPTIVE
Visiting Raijua is even more challenging. Although located only 20-30 kilometers west of Sawu, big waves there frequently become the journey’s main obstacle. Raijua is referred to as where the original religions of Sawu and Raijua, called Jingitiu, originated. The devout atmosphere of the ancient belief system has slowly started to fade, but remains of its animistic beliefs are still sensed in this traditional ikat weave producing island. This is notable from the many proscriptions we must adhere to when visiting this island. In aspects of tourism objects, both islands have their own specific assets. We must explore on our own and discover its unique corners. Several of my own
discoveries can be seen through these photos. Indonesia is indeed vast and rich. There are still many more areas in other places that wait to be explored, not only by foreigners but by its own people, who need to explore their own backyard more. According to the people of Raijua, our visit as photographers and at same time as domestic tourists were the first or the second who came to their island. Others consisted of researchers and foreign surfers. Here we would also like to extend our gratitude towards the family of Bapak Mahari, Bapak Rauf and Ibu Sehat Makarim for their hospitality during our exotic adventure there. ■ Text and photos by Fadil Aziz (Alcibbum Photography)
NUSA TENGGRA TIMUR
NUSA TENGGARA TIMUR
NUSA TENGGARA TIMUR
EARTH’S LAST GUARDIANS
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Earth, our home, is suffering. The temperature is rising, glaciers are melting, sea levels are rising, and wildlife is dying as we power up our gadgets of modernity, releasing heat-trapping gases. Our forests are now barren because of irresponsible logging. We live carelessly, oblivious to the cries of Mother Earth, all in the name of modernization and technological advancement.
owever, it wasn’t always like this. There was a time when human beings were at one with nature. We used what we needed, and we did not exploit. Sadly, as civilization has evolved, the harmony between humans and nature has been greatly disturbed. Around the world, scientific findings reveal that the earth is now in a critical situation and environmentalists urge us to take immediate steps in preserving our
home for the future generations. The good news is some have been doing this since the day they populated the planet. One tribe on this archipelago has been relentless in their effort to preserve the earth, and will continue to do so. They are the Baduy people. Living only a 5 hours drive from Jakarta, hidden at the feet of Kendeng Mountain, they are one of the few remaining traditional tribes who are still very much in tune with nature. Their unique customs and religious beliefs do not allow modernity to infiltrate them in any way. Today, they are still living the way their ancestors used to live hundreds of years ago, as if trapped in a time capsule. A fact made even more remarkable by their actual proximity to Jakarta, the capital of excess and everything modern. The origin of the Baduy is not perfectly clear. According to the book Baduy Bicara (Baduy Talks) by Asep Kurnia, one speculation is that the term ‘Baduy’ was a derivation from the word ‘badawi’ (Bedouin), a tribe of nomads who lived near the Arabian Peninsula. The Baduy people do have some similarities with the Badawi tribe; they are always active and on the move and they never cultivate the same field, but close one when they finish cultivating it and open another in a new area. The chiefs of the Baduy however, object to this speculation. According to them, Baduy is the name of the river that runs through the area. They also believe that they are the direct descendant of the first human on earth and that the spot that they live on is actually pancer bumi, the center of the earth. Baduy people sometimes call themselves the Kanekes people because the Indonesian government named the area that they live in Kanekes. This location of Kanekes is believed to be the embryo of the earth. Because they are the direct descendants of the first human on earth and the fact that they live at the center of the earth, it is therefore taboo for the Baduy people to treat the earth in manners that are deemed disrespectful. In fact, they
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2010 53
The Baduy people believe that their mission here on earth is to be the guardians who preserve the balance of the earth. They believe that by treating the earth with utter respect and not violating its functions, the earth and all its abundance will bring only beneﬁts to the people populating it.
have a set of rules that they have lived by from generation to generation: What is long cannot be cut short, what is short cannot be lengthened, the mountains cannot be destroyed, the slopes cannot be harmed, always cut exactly what you need - no more no less, always peel exactly what you needno more no less, say wrong when it’s wrong, say right when it’s right, no cheating and no lying. The Baduy people believe that their mission here on earth is to be the guardians who preserve the balance of the earth. They believe that by treating the earth with utter respect and not violating its functions, the earth and all its abundance will bring only benefits to the people populating it. To ensure a perfect implementation of their mission, they divide themselves into two groups, namely the Inner Baduy (Baduy Dalam) and the Outer Baduy (Baduy Luar). The task of the Inner Baduy is to preserve their culture and the environment, while the task of the Outer Baduy is as protectors and filters, and to act as Baduy’s ambassador to the outside world, to show that the Baduy people are also part of the nation of Indonesia. And they stay true to their mission in preserving the earth, in every aspect of their lives. Take farming for example. They never damage the soil structure by digging too deep. They merely graze the surface before planting the seeds inside the holes on the surface of the land. The Baduy people do not have rice fields because rice fields change the structure of the land. They have non-irrigated fields instead and their
54 BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2010
Photographers and videographers are not allowed to take any picture in the Inner Baduy area and also in some of the Outer Baduy areas. These pictures taken were among those exceptions.
of tough resilient men who can walk at a remarkable speed. As a result of this practice, the air of Baduy is 100% pollution free and the sky is probably the bluest you’ll ever see in the densely populated island of Java – specifically in the province of West Java with its proximity to the capital city! The Baduy people are also famous for their friendliness. Although their customs do not allow them to be open to assimilation and outside influences, they are by nature good-hearted people because they believe in harmony. They welcome any visitor who comes to the village, providing a resting place in their patio and the owner of the house will serve water and fresh fruits. It is such a simple kindness that will rekindle your belief in humanity, if you ever lose it by living in a big and cynical city. On the other side, to preserve their values, they do not allow foreign visitors to stay more than one night in the village. Photographers and videographers are not allowed to take any picture in the
farming activities are limited to the slopes of the hills. The top of the hill is off limits for farming because they have to preserve the vegetation. There is one forest known as The Forbidden Forest (Hutan Larangan) where only certain respected members of the tribe are allowed to enter, and any activity in the forest that involves disturbing the vegetation is strictly forbidden. According to their belief, the forest is closed because it is the Essence of the Universe (Sasaka Domas) and also because it is located in the South, which is the direction of prayers for the Baduy people, therefore it is considered holy. However, if we want to look at it from the environmental point of view, it is an undeniable proof that the Baduy people have a deep understanding of the concept of conserving the forest. Another interesting fact is that the Baduy people never flatten the ground. They never ‘disturb’ the soil. If a house is to be built on an uneven surface, instead
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of making the surface even by digging and flattening the ground, they use pillars to support the house from below and the length of the pillars vary, following the contour of the land. The same goes for the bridges that they build. Not a single nail is used; instead they tie the bridge together with palm fibers. That way, they do not ‘harm’ the bamboo used to make the bridge. The Baduy people do not allow any form of modern transportation to enter their village, not even the pollution-free bicycle. In fact they never even build roads. To get from one village to another in the Kanekes area you need to hike over several hills using unforgiving tracks. Even for emergencies, such as when somebody needs to get to a neighboring village for medical attention, no motor transportation is allowed when picking up the patient from the village. Those whose physical conditions are not fit for such a strenuous walk will be carried in a litter by a group
Inner Baduy area and also in some of the Outer Baduy areas. They are not open to schooling nor are they familiar with writing. Everything is passed down verbally from generation to generation. It is simply because they do not want other cultures to infiltrate their way of thinking and corrupt their minds and steer them away from their original mission, which is preserving the earth. Whether or not the Baduy people really are the direct descendant of the first human on earth remains a question. However, seeing how harmonious their relationship is with nature and how they go to great lengths to carry out their mission, unfazed by the lure of modernization and the comfort that technology brings despite the cost, it is not entirely wrong for us to think the Baduy people might indeed be the last guardians of the Planet Earth. ■ Text by Patricia Ivana Photos by Josua Alessandro www.escapadepictures.com
Hotel Borobudur Jakarta caters to parents who want to spend their weekend with their kids, with its Bogor Café serving Bounty Brunch every Sunday from 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; a bounty of food plus games for the children. Hotel Borobudur Jakarta has deployed its professional staff to guide the children through activities such as arts and crafts, temporary tattoos, and nail coloring to mention a few. All activities can be enjoyed for Rp. 188.000++ per adult and Rp. 100.000++ per child. Bogor Cafe, Hotel Borobudur Jakarta, Jalan Lapangan Banteng Selatan, Jakarta, (021) 380-5555
Members of the Executive Committee of Jakarta International Hotels Association (JIHA) recently presented the money collected during the JIHA Christmas Charity project to three worthy charities. A total of Rp. 120 million was saved by member hotels by not sending the cards, and this money was presented to the Indonesian Care for Cancer Kids Foundation that provides children with cancer the best access to treatment and care, to the Yayasan Citra Baru that helps children and young people with craniofacial surgery, and to the Emmanuel Foundation that provides free food and education for malnourished children and scavenger communities. Visit www.jakartahotelsassociation.com for further details on the JIHA and its activities. www.jakartahotelsassociation.com
Starting this month, Alila Jakarta provides free WiFi in all of its rooms, enabling guests to easily access the Internet in all public areas: lobby, meeting rooms and restaurants. Guests can enjoy this browsing service without any time and cost limitations. Anytime and anywhere at Alila Jakarta, guests can access free WiFi and no password is needed. “It’s plug and play” quotes Evaldo Desfarillo, Public Relations Manager. Alila Jakarta has 246 rooms (Deluxe Rooms, Executive Rooms, Executive Suites, Club Suites, Apartments and Alila Suites) offering comfortable accommodation packages for business and leisure. www.alilahotels.com
Following the recent opening of its new modern and minimalist ìTerrazza Biancoî hangout, Akmani Hotel presents its March promotions for weekends. Rp. 550,000 nett for a Deluxe Room and Rp. 650,000 nett for a Grand Deluxe. The special rates apply on Saturdays and Sundays. Milano Mocktails are introduced as mocktail of the month, made up of fresh orange, strawberry and lychee with passion fruit syrup at only Rp. 35,000 nett at the Bel Piatto Restaurant. The Akmani Hotel Jl. Wahid Hasyim 91 Jakarta 13050; (021) 3190-5335 www.akmanihotel.com
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2010 59
FROM CURRIES TO KEBABS
JW Marriott Hotel Jakarta welcomes diners to come and enjoy the “Spice Trail”, a spice journey of Marco Polo who travelled throughout Asia and the world in 1200. The Sailendra Spice Trail presents various styles of curries and kebabs from March 5-21 at the Sailendra Restaurant. Inspired by Marco Polo’s journey, the Sailendra Restaurant brings all the spices from around the world with their all their richness to the buffet array. Assisted by the “Spice Master” Chef Nawiyo (Sailendra’s very own Indian chef that possesses a wealth of experience in handling spices) who is well known for his specialty in Indian cuisine, the extraordinary curries and kebabs can be enjoyed for lunch and dinner. For reservations, call (021) 5798-8889. JW Marriott Jakarta, Jl. Lingkar Mega Kuningan Kav. E.1.2 No. 1& 2, Mega Kuningan, Jakarta www.marriott.com/jktjw
The Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands and Cemeti Art House holds ‘Landing Soon #6 - #11’ through March 18 at Erasmus Huis, Jakarta. The three year running artist-in-residence program by Cemeti Art House in collaboration with Heden, The Hague has come to an end. This exhibition shows an overview of the results of the last half of the project with thirteen artists from the Netherlands and Indonesia (Landing Soon #6 through #11). Participating artists included Arfan Sabran, Ralph Kaimena, Ellen Rodenberg, Wimo Ambala Bayang, Maarten Schepers, Urs Pfanenm¸ller, Sigit Bapak, Elizabeth de Vaal, Beatrix H Kaswara, Cilia Erens, Octora, Rosalie Monod de Froideville, and Wiyoga Muhardanto. Cemeti Art House, Jl. D.I. Panjaitan 41, Yogyakarta, (0274) 371-015; www.cemetiarthouse.com
Prime Plaza Hotels & Resorts (PPHR) held a social event for its Prime Plaza New Look 2010 in January at the Q Smoke House Factory in South Jakarta. Entering the year 2010, Prime Plaza Hotels & Resorts added supporting elements to its corporate identity. Each property comprised of hotels, suites and resorts has its own identifying colors of green, blue, orange and purple; as well as different taglines to identify each property. Prime Plaza Hotels & Resorts, Plaza 5 Pondok Indah Blok C no. 16, Jakarta (0361) 7279-9797
Hard Rock Hotel Bali
Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock! Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles. Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury.
Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-869 E-mail: email@example.com Website: www.hardrockhotels.net
Pool Villa Club Sanur Beach Bali
The Pool Villa Club at Sanur Beach Bali offers luxurious one-bedroom ocean view villas with direct beach access. Each villa with private terrace and its own 11m private pool also comes with a majestic bed, living and dining areas and expansive gardens with gazebo. The villas have fully equipped kitchens with breakfast bar, a spacious bathroom with Jacuzzi and walk-in wardrobes. Guests may take the option of dining at the gazebo while enjoying the beach and the ocean. Personal butlers provide personalized services. A perfect place for couples, families or to entertain friends. Sanur Beach Bali also features 426 rooms and suites, 2 large pools, a choice of restaurants and bars.
Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur 80228 Bali, Indonesia Ph: +62 361 288011 Fax: +62 361 287566 firstname.lastname@example.org www.sanurbeach.aerowisata.com
The Patra Bali
Resort & Villas
The Patra Bali Resort & Villas is an 11 hectare five star resort in Tuban, offering one of the largest guestrooms in Kuta. All decorated in traditional Balinese style with exquisite wooden furnishings overlooking exotic tropical landscapes. The hotel has a warm and peaceful atmosphere and is ideal for total relaxation! The Resort has 206 rooms and suites, all beautifully appointed, with marble bathrooms and five-star amenities. There is a huge swimming pool right by the sea. The 22 Villas are a semi-boutique concept, giving extra privacy and luxury for families or couples. Many have private plunge pools, and they’ve all 24-hour butler service. Villa guests have their own huge seaside swimming pool and exclusive use of the Floating Heritage Lounge. The hotel offers more facilities like 4 restaurants, convention centers, a Kids club, Spa & Health club, a Beach Bar and free shuttle service to Kuta.
Jl. Ir. H. Juanda, South Kuta Beach, Kuta Tel : ( 0361 ) 751-161 Fax: (0361) 752-030 email@example.com www.patrabali.com
The location is ideal, a huge landscaped property on South Kuta Beach, directly on the Indian Ocean and next to the international airport. A 5-minute drive north brings you to the heart of Kuta’s shopping district.
The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa
The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa is a new destination for those who want to experience the atmosphere of first class service with state of the art facilities. 42 Private Pool Villas are available with different categories; 1 bedroom suite villa, 2 and 3 bedroom family villas to meet every guest’s dream. Main pool, Terrace Restaurant, Sunset Bar, Dreamland Beach Shuttle, Kuta Shuttle, Dream Spa Center, Free Internet at Business Centre, Gift Shop, Pool Bar, and spacious parking area. Each Villa Features: Fully air-conditioned, in-room personal safe, 29” flat color television with international TV Channel, IDD Telephone, Mini bar, Jacuzzi, DVD player, original imported latex mattress, shower jet massage, imported bathtub with hot and cold running water, private plunge pool and Balinese gazebo. In the Ungasan village, high on the southernmost peninsula of the island of Bali. Ten minutes to Dreamland beach, from your villa by our free shuttle service.
Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Br. Bakung Sari, Ungasan, South Kuta, Bali Tel. (0361) 708 199; Fax. (3361) 708 168 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com www.dreamland-villa.com
EMBRACING NATURE’S POEM
Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition featuring the works of Nyoman Sujana Kenyem through April 5. Born in Ubud, Kenyem belongs to a small circle of contemporary artists whose work, while modern in spirit and execution, still retains the lyricism of traditional art. Notably he is one of the most prominent members of a new generation of artists who chose to study in the late 1990s in the newly opened Balinese branch of the Indonesian art academy (STSI) rather than in Yogyakarta or Bandung. Since his appearance on the scene in the 1990s, Kenyem has won praise for the poetic beauty of his canvasses. The subject of each of his images, mirrored in titles like ‘Touch’, ‘Smile’ and ‘Nostalgia’ are inevitably highly personal visualizations of emotions. Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, (0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay
INTERNATIONAL YOGA FESTIVAL
The Bali-India Foundation will hold another round of the International Yoga Festival that will be joined by some 1,500 Yogis from all over the world. The second international yoga event will be held from March 3-10, and the chairman of the Bali-India Foundation Dr. Somvir stated that half of the 1,500 participants would come from India, European countries, the USA, and Asian regions. The other half of the participants will consist of yoga lovers and yoga development center managers from various places in Indonesia. The annual yoga event will be themed “Yoga and Global Warming Issues”. Dr. Somvir mentioned that participants from foreign countries like India, Germany and Singapore had confirmed their participation and each country would send some 50 participants. All of the International Yoga Festival will take place in North Bali at the Markandeya Yoga City Banjar Gunung Sari, Tegal Linggah village, Sukasada sub-district, Buleleng district, about 80 km north of Denpasar. The location is a village that is surrounded by hills and becomes a historic village for Hindu and Islamic development. The second Bali-India International Yoga Festival is expected exceed the success of first event that involved some 1,000 participants in March of 2009 in Denpasar. Bali India Foundation, Jl. Dr. Muwardi No. 3, Denpasar (0361) 224-299; www.yogabaliindia.com
SOLO AND GROUP
Tony Raka Gallery iwill be holding two exhibitions this month, a solo and a group exhibition. “Nowhere Else,” a solo exhibition by Samarpan, is being held from March 5 to April 5. Samarpan has created abstract compositions that radiate in intense color and present a vivid world, a cosmos of color. His paintings hold all the mystery of the changing light in a stained glass window. “Return to the Abstraction” is an exhibition of at least 25 painters held from March 18 to April 10. The Balinese artists’ awareness of space and composition exist through the tradition or pre-modern works to the present. The presentation of their works represents symbolic values, as well as metaphor. Through this exhibition, the concepts and ideas of Balinese abstract painting will be traced. Tony Raka Art Gallery, Jl. Raya Mas No. 86 Mas, Ubud (0361) 781-6785; www.tonyrakaartgallery.com
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Villas & Spa
Bali Masari Villas is a hotel with a difference and features four onebedroom and eight two-bedroom luxury villas each with their own private plunge pool beautifully situated overlooking a ravine in the valley of the Petanu River. A place to be at one with nature, to soothe the senses - mind, body and soul. Self-contained villas are perfect for honeymooners, for discerning travelers and executives. Restaurant providing a range of Asian and European food; bars, a spa, a large swimming pool and a smaller childrens pool. The villas have recently been refurbished to four star standards, each featuring its own dip pool and equipped with television, air conditioning, hot and cold water, telephone, electronic safety deposit box and kitchen. Spacious rooms boast high Balinese roofs, marble floors, a large central living area and a pull out sofa double bed. The 1.6 hectare resort is situated near the Sukawati village in the Gianyar Regency. 45 minutes drive from the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 30 minutes from Ubud, 20 minutes from Sanur. Shopping and art markets are nearby in Sukawati.
Jl. Pantai Purnama, Banjar Gelumpang, Sukawati, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 290-029 Fax: (0361) 290-050 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: www.balimasarivillas.com
Mentari Sanur Hotel
The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud.
Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Tel: (0361) 283-286, Fax: (0361) 283-017 E-mail: email@example.com Website: www.mentarisanur.com
Maxi Hotel & Spa
The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing.
Jl. Legian 83A, Legian Tel: (0361) 754-082Fax: (0361) 750-792 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: www.maxi-hotel.com
The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.
The Haven Hotel
Pioneering three in one concept, hotel, suites and villas located in the heart of hippest Seminyak Area. Famous area for clubs, boutiques and restaurants. Walking distance to beaches. With perfect concept “Naturally Elegant” post Perfect palace for honeymooners, party goers and fashionista. 96 hotel rooms, 60 spacious suites, 7 villas with private pool in each, function and meeting rooms, Three Main swimming pools, Atma Spa, SABEEN Healthy Restaurant, Gym, Library, Tirta Pool bar, butler services, Limousine service, LCD TV’s, Broadband Internet connection.
Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 – Bali Tel: (0361) 738-001 The Haven Suites & Villas Gg. Raja, Jalan Double Six – Seminyak - Bali Tel: (0361) 738-001, Fax: (0361) 738-002 Sales: (0361) 738-008 E-mail: email@example.com Website: www.thehavenbali.com
Honeymoon package, Meeting package, Bed and breakfast package and Photo-shoot wedding Package. 15 Minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, walking distance to beaches, Shopping area, and Boutiques.
An exposition will be held to commemorate 100 years since France’s first Bande Dessinée or comics, entitled Exposition: 100 years of French Comics. The expo will exhibit 35 original art paper collections issued by the International Association for Comics and Drawings. These collections will take you back to times when history spoke about the phases of art, recognized world-wide for its uniqueness in France, Europe, and all parts of the world. Just to mention, some of the collections are from Caran D’ache – a surprisingly modern practitioner for mute story telling until art collections from Nicolas de Crécy – with its impressive technique mastering, a creation well known for more than a century in countries like France and Belgium. The exhibition will take place in Alliance Française Denpasar, through March 31. Alliance Française de Denpasar, Jl. Raya Puputan I, No. 13A, Denpasar (0361) 234-143; www.afdenpasar.org
BALI FROM BEYOND
Hanna Artspace hosts the painting exhibition “Bali from Beyond” through April 8. This event will visualize the expression of the expatriate artists during their stay in Bali. The artists presented are Arie Smitt (Holland), Han Snel (Holland), Rudolf Bonnet (Holland), Marc Jurt (Switzerland), Pieter Deiman (Holland), Shant F. Clergue (France), Emilie Pauline Sermet (France), Razcel Jan LS (Philippines), Anja Zwanenburg , Margareta (Norway), Patrick Okorokoff (France), and more. Hanna Artspace Jln. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud (0361) 978-216 www.hannaartspace.blogspot.com
This workshop at Gaya will explore the kiss of flame and the natural glaze effects of atmospheric wood firing in Gaya CAC’s new anagama (Japanese-style wood kiln), with wood fire specialist Dave Hanley. Participants will experiment with the variables of clay bodies and flashing slips, surface texture and vessel shape as design factors influencing the subtle and dramatic effects of a natural ash surface. Instructors Dave Hanley and Hillary Kane provide courses at the workshop through April 3. Gaya Ceramic Arts Center, Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud,(0361) 745-1413 www.gayafusion.com/ceramic
FOOD, HOTEL, TOURISM
The 7th International Exhibition for Equipment, Food, Beverages and Services to support Indonesia’s tourism and hospitality industries is being held this month at the Bali International Convention Center from March 11-13. Also, Food, Hotel & Tourism Bali will once again be held alongside the famous Salon Culinaire, organized by the Bali Culinary Professionals. Bali’s best young chefs will once again test their culinary expertise in an exciting mix of competitions. www.fhtbali.com
TWISTED N’ SHOUTED
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas once again achieved great success in holding a travel agents appreciation event at The Kharisma Ballroom recently with the theme ‘Let’s Twist and Shout’. The dinner and extravagant event was attended by over 300 representatives from travel agents, airlines and the media. During the evening, there were awards presented to the top 10 agents based on production during the year 2009. All of the hotel’s management and staff who were involved in this memorable occasion were dressed in 1960s costumes. Discovery Kartika Plaza Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta (0361) 751-067
Participants of the Australia Indonesia Youth Exchange Program (AIYEP) 2009-10 performed the Tari Saman dance at the farewell ceremony held by the Australian Ambassador for Indonesia, Bill Farmer, in February in Jakarta. AIYEP is an annual exchange program that has played an important role in increasing mutual understanding between the two nations. Australian Embassy, Jakarta, (021) 2550-5490
Ramada Camakila held a gathering for media and agents in February. In this gathering, the participants came gradually. Nine members representing the media came on February 16 while the other batch came the following day. Ramada Camakila had opened and operated since mid 2009. Opening ceremonies and such are yet to be scheduled. Ramada served a cocktail party followed by a six course dinner on the evenings. Ramada Resort Camakila Bali, Jalan Pura Bagus Teruna, Seminyak, (0361) 752- 877 www.ramadaresortcamakila.com
UP A BAR FIGURES MEET
The island’s tourism figures gathered at the Bali Governor’s office in a day seminar, which presented topics on Bali’s tourism in the last 5 years and tried to find an ideal formulation for 2010. Speakers at the seminar were Wayan Geriya (Balinese anthropologist), I.B. Subiksu (head of the Bali Tourism Office), Ngurah Wijaya (head of the Bali Tourism Board) and the Director of the Bali Tourism Police.
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The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa in Nusa Dua held a Malaspas inauguration blessing ceremony for its Kul Kul Bar following its recent renovation on February 17, coinciding with the temple anniversary of the hotel’s main temple. The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali (0361) 771-327 www.luxurycollection.com/bali
In conjunction with the Chinese New Year celebrations, Kota Bukit Indah Plaza Hotel hosted its long stay guests and recreational club members to a management cocktail party. Around 50 invitees were treated to an attractive and interactive Lion Dance performance. Red ‘Ang Pao’ packets were passed around in Chinese New Year tradition. Kota Bukit Indah Plaza Hotel, Blok L, Kota Bukit Indah, Purwakarta, (0264) 351-888 www.primeplazahotels.com
Kayumanis Group’s recent appreciation party acknowledged the outstanding support of travel agents and media representatives over the past year. The event took place at Kayumanis Jimbaran. A series of awards to the best supporters within each travel market category for 2009 was the highlight of the event. www.kayumanis.com
Amidst the Valentine’s Day celebrations, around 40 orphan children from the Anugerah orphanage were treated to a Parent-For-A-Day event held by JP Production, The Blado Showbiz, KKMK and the Sahaja community. The orphans and their parent-for-aday went on a fun and happy tour to the Bali Zoo Park, the Bali Bird Park, several shopping malls, the beach and to bookstores. For further information, contact Grace Jeanie, 081-735-1312.
CHINA GIRL VALENTINE’S
Hard Rock Hotel Bali, the leading entertainment hotel in Bali, celebrated Valentine’s Day and Chinese New Year in ‘rockin’ style, with a ‘China Girl Party’ at Centerstage on February 14. Centerstage was decorated in red flowers and lampions. D’Munk Band started warming the crowd of more than 300 people at 8.30 pm, followed by Chun Lee Trolley Dolly, David Bowie China Girl Dance Show, Pink Madame Butterfly Go Go and Stiltwalker show and Chun Lee Dance Show. Hard Rock Hotel Bali, Jalan Pantai, Banjar Pande Mas, Kuta (0361) 761-869; www.hardrockhotels.net
Le Méridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort had pianist David Harrington entertaining adults and kids, performing some of his best music through a charity piano concert for Starwood’s Anak Bintang children’s campaign at the resort’s Sunset Lounge in mid February. Le Meridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort Bali, Jalan Raya Tanah Lot, (0361) 815-900; www.lemeridien.com/bali
A DJ Marathon and contemporary art event on February 26 raised money for the “I’m An Angel” charity. Thousands of dollars are raised each year for the charity, which undertakes a wide range of worthy activities in Bali from healthcare to hygiene, infrastructure-building to education, and environmental awareness. www.kudeta.net
MARCH 2010 67
SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI
An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends
CELEBRATORY AGM AND LUNCH IN SANUR February 5 a celebratory annual General meeting took place in the new Negara conference facilities of the Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel. Members took stock of a very successful 2009 and elected officers for a promising new year of Skal activity in 2010. Following the AGM 73 members and guests adjourned to the newly renovated Sanur Harum Restaurant for a hearty lunch of Crustacean Bisque scented with cognac and garlic croutons, Herbal Crusted Salmon Fillet, Potato mash, snow peas, sautéed kailan, dried plum tomato, in a forest mushroom jus perfumed with mustard seeds. Dessert was a scrumptious Berries and White Chocolate Mousse Fruit ragout, orange sherbet on layered cinnamon cake. COMING EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 150 members of Skal Bali meet monthly for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues. On the calendar 2010 are: March 5 – Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali – Tuban April 9 – The St.Regis Bali Resort – Nusa Dua May 7 – Nikko Bali Resort and Spa – Nusa Dua June 4 – Ma Joly – Tuban July 2 – Tao - Tanjung Benoa
ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI
Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the World’s largest travel and tourism organization with over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in 90 countries. Members are tourism industry management and professionals providing accommodation, transportation, tours, travel, marine and cruise tourism, attractions, restaurants, golf, spas and travel media. Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in Membership Growth Membership and Information: Gede Juwena Telephone: 7840212; email: firstname.lastname@example.org
68 BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2010
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
Have a copy of Bali & Beyond delivered to your home address monthly. Name: ____________________________________________ Address: __________________________________________
BALI & BE YOND
VOLUME 11 NO. 111
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SU RF... THE CULT URE OF PARADI SE AND OVER 1 8,000 SURROUN DING
RE HE CULTU SURF... T ND... THE .. THE SA THE SUN.
D BALI & BE YON
ISE OF PARAD
: BIRTHPL A N D S RESIDE D I N G I S LACE, NCE SURROUN 1 8 , 0 0 0 FINAL RESTIN G PLACE OF THE AND OVER NATION’S ‘DECLARER OF INDEPENDENCE’
09 M A R C H 2 0 106
HOMETOWN OF THE FOUNDING FATHER BLITAR
___________________________________________________ City: ______________________________________________ Country: __________________
PRIVILEGE, D PREFERRE
SPECIAL EXPERIENCE AT CLUB INDULGENCE NTAL, WITH INTERCONTINE ICES AND SERV PRIVILEGED ONS ACCOMMODATI
JUST TINY ISLANDS HERN OFF THE NORT PART OF EAST ARE KALIMANTAN TO GATEWAYS IC ANOTHER EXOT PART OF THE GO ARCHIPELA
QUIRKY TI SENOPA +
NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • M AP OF BALI • C LASSIFIED COLU MNS BALI&BEYOND
AUGUST 2009 1
FOURTH FUN ‘N CULTURAL EVENT
Payment method by Transfer. Delivery fees: Within Indonesia ...........IDR 150,000.00/year Asia, Australia & Africa ....... US$ 220.00/year Europe & America...............US$ 240.00/year Please settle payment to the following account: PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma, (A/C. IDR) 434.01.00210.00.4 CIMB NIAGA - CAB. KUTA GRAHA, KUTA-BALI
LUMNS S I F I E D C O 2009 1 MARCH LI • CLAS BALI&BEYOND AP OF BA INDEX • M WS • INFO NEW & NE
Bali White House - Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361 - Bali Ph: +62 361 8868601-2 Fax: +62 361 750075
Fax this form and proof of transfer to: +62 361 750075 (and please reconfirm via phone call) to: +62 361 8868601-2
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2010 69
BALI & BEYOND
N W S E
ra s Bagu Taru na
Jl. R aya Panta
Istana Kuta Galleria Harris Hotel
a aP laz rtik
Hard Rock Cafe
Jl. Pantai Kuta
Discovery Shopping Mall
Jl. Raya Tu
Kuta Sea View
Ground Zero Monument
Jl. Han g Tuah
H S H
Jl. Pratama Raya
Melia Benoa Art Market
au Be ra ta n
Inna Grand Bali Beach
Jl. Danau Buyan
Jl. Segara Ayu
Jl. Tegeh Agung
H H CD
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
Sanur Paradise Paza French Consulate
Jl. Kurusetr a3
Sweden & Finland Consulate
N W S E
Jl. By pa ss Ng ur ah Ra
Jl. Danau Tamblingan
erta sar i
Bali Golf & Country Club
Jl. Danau Poso
Czech Rep. Consulate
Jl. N usa Dua Sela tan
The St. Regis
VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3 villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete, shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian, Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510 E-mail: email@example.com; www.dianagrouphotel.com
during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s / quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day. BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766; Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com
ACTION & ATTRACTION
BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the beauty of walking among hundreds of beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia, Ginger and other interesting plants. A peaceful, natural and safe haven close to the city. Enjoy a drink and find unique souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax: 466-011; www.baliorchidgardens.com; E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive. Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields, crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views
NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from anywhere of the world. Chose from 1012 titles of 79 countries, daily, weekly or as you like it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your preferred hometown newspaper on the same day of publication to your hotel or residence on Bali. Contact your hotel or villa reception or call or email them for the selection and pricelist 0361 769414 / email@example.com
TOURS & TRAVEL
ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo & Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750 971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56, Email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.adventureindonesia.com
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369 ■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807 ■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741 ■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567 ■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761 ■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011 Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id ■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: email@example.com ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org ■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: email@example.com ■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: email@example.com ■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: email@example.com ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: email@example.com ■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies. ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.
■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate. ■ BIMC HOSPITAL: Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the KutaSanur-Nusa Dua roundabout. Tel: (0361) 761-263. ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15. ■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL: (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: email@example.com www.kasihibu.co.id
■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings. ■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience. Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.
■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.
■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar. ■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA): Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm. ■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar.
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org www.dfat.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: email@example.com ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur
HEALTH & MEDICAL
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace ﬂuids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue
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