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How To:

Stabilise: Fuse a 2.5cm / 1 wide strip of suitable weight fusing to each side of the zipper opening (apply to the
wrong side of the fabric). Fusing should be slightly shorter that the length of the zipper (including top and
bottom tapes).
2. Marking: If your pattern doesnt already have the end of the zipper marked or notched, notch or mark the end of
the zip.
3. Staystitching: The opening of the zipper should be wide enough to expose just the zipper teeth plus a little extra
for room around the teeth to prevent any fabric from getting caught. Staystitch each side of the zipper opening
6mm plus the seam allowance (1cm for our patterns) from the raw edge, pivoting 90 at the end of zipper
mark/notch. Repeat for both sides.
4. Sew the Seam: With rights sides together, sew the seam (1cm seam allowance for our patterns) from the base of
the zipper mark/notch, to the end.
5. Clipping: Clip into the seam allowances on a diagonal to the zipper base, just to, but not through the
staystitching. You may find it easier to cut each seam allowance separately.
6. Pressing: Press seams open and neaten each edge. Fold and press over the allowance of the zip opening on the
staystitching line.
7. Stitch the lower edge: Working from the right side of the garment, fold back the top of the work to the start of
the centre back seam to expose the triangles of the clipped seam allowance, align the metal base of the zipper
with the centre seam, (zipper should be facing downwards and right sides together) and position it just past the
stay stitching. Pin.
8. With a zipper foot attached to your machine. Stitch across zipper tape and triangles, back tacking at either end.
9. Stitch the zipper sides: Flip zipper up right way round, tucking the zipper tape and triangles to the inside, Align
the pressed and folded edge along the zipper tape and pin.
10. Pinning: Turn back one side of the dress back to expose the seam allowance and zipper tape, re-pin seam
allowance to zipper tape only and remove pins from the front. Repeat for other side.
11. Sew Sides: Starting from the base of the zip, stitch along the staystitching line. Repeat for other side of zipper.
Press with a pressing cloth.
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