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Lightroom is a powerful manager of digital
photography. The heart of it is the Library
Module. Work in the rest of the modules begins
by choosing a photograph or a group of them
in the Library.




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Lightroom is at its core a database. It stores all of the information about a
photograph. From the camera settings at the time of exposure, to keywords,
copyright and creator info through all of the changes made in the Develop
module, face recognition and even GPS coordinates; Lightroom maintains and
retrieves these data on demand. It’s very important to know that Lightroom is only
a database. It references photographs stored on hard drives. It does not store
photographs. There are NO photographs in Lightroom… only information about
them. Importing photographs into Lightroom stores information about them. It
does not store the photographs themselves.

The Library module is the place where photographs are imported, sorted, ranked,
rated, flagged, selected, collected, adjusted and exported. There are chapters in
this eBook covering each of the myriads of happenings in the Library module.


Choosing the “hero”
photograph from a
take is one of the most
important and
arguable challenging
jobs a photographer
performs in the Library
module. Ranking,
rating, flagging and
selecting are covered
in depth in the Making
Selects section.

A Sad Story—There are NO PHOTOGRAPHS in Lightroom!

When the first version of Lightroom was introduced, a photographer imported all of
his work and personal photography into it. He was delighted to see how small the
Lightroom catalog was. He immediately deleted all of his photographs to free up
space on his (at the time) very expensive and almost full 1.5 terabyte RAID
holding 4-500 gigabyte drives. His work was gone. Forever. The moral of the story
is that Lightroom only references the photographs on a hard drive. It stores
information, metadata about the photographs, not the photographs themselves.
I’ll say it again: THERE ARE NO PHOTOGRAPHS IN LIGHTROOM. There. I’ve said
it three times. If this sounds redundant, it is because it’s very important. Believe it.


working with metadata & keywords C: Image Display Area set to Grid view. D: Filmstrip E: Toolbar F: Identity Plate G: Library Filter Bar H: Module Picker 4 .S E C T I O N 1 | T H E L I B R A R Y M O D U L E THE TOUR The Library module screen is divided into two sidebars—one on the right and one on the left. an Image Display area. The major parts of the Library Module are: A: Left Sidebar’s panels for working with source photographs B: Right Sidebar’s panels for adjusting images. Filmstrip and a Toolbar.


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Navigator—shows the current selected photograph. Mouse over a folder in the
Folders panel to display the first photo in it.
Catalog—a bird’s eye view of the contents of Lightroom
• All Photographs shows the count of imported photos
• All Synced Photographs is a count of photos synced using Lightroom Mobile
• Quick Collection shows the number of photos in the Quick Collections
• Previous Import displays the number of photos last brought into Lightroom.
• Previous Export as Catalog shows the number of photos copied from
Lightroom to a new or different catalog.
• Already in Catalog shows photos that are in from a previous import
Folders—shows the mounted volumes on the computer and the folders of
photographs that have been imported. Click the + sign for options of what is
shown. Choose “Add Folder” to create a new or to choose a folder to import.
Collections—virtual groups of photographs. The + sign adds a Collection Set, a
new Collection or a programmable “Smart Collection” Highlight a collection then
click the minus (-) sign to remove it.
Publish Services— exporting presets and / or plug-ins to send photographs to a
set location on a hard drive or to upload to social media like Facebook or Flickr.
End Marks—put your logo or other flourish in the space at the bottom of each
sidebar. Choose Lightroom (Mac) or Edit (Windows) > Preferences. Click the
Interface tab. Choose End Marks then Go to Panel End Marks Folder. Put your end
mark in the folder. Go back to Lightroom’s Preferences > Interface > End Marks
then select your mark. It displays like mine.



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Next is the Quick Develop panel. This is where initial tweaks to photographs are
made before refining them in the Develop module. This is a great place for
beginners. The Auto Tone button also is a quick fix. The single arrow buttons
increase / decrease Exposure by a third of a stop per click or .33 plus (right arrow)
or minus (left arrow.) All of the other settings increment by 5 plus or minus. The
double arrows in Exposure are for one stop increases or decreases. The other
choices get a 20 point plus or minus by click their respective double arrow button.
The Develop module offers much more finesse as well as many more options.
Quick Develop is offers a fast look at the Basic tab adjustments without sliders.

The right sidebar is all about adding info to photographs in the database. 

It begins with the Histogram graphic showing the distribution of pixels by
brightness. Below that is the exposure info: ISO, Focal Length, Aperture and
Shutter Speed. Underneath this is the status of the photo and if it has a Smart
Preview. Select all of the photos in the Grid view to see a count of Originals without
Smart Previews and Originals + Smart Previews. If the external drive holding the
original photographs is disconnected, the number of thumbnails with Smart
Previews and the number missing them are displayed.



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There two panels that support keywords: Keywording and
Keyword List.
Keywording is the entry point. Add keywords in the entry window.
Separate multiple keywords with a comma. If a keyword already
exists in the Keyword list, it will appear as a highlighted suggestion.
Accept it by pressing Return.
The Keyword List is exactly that, a list of all of the keywords that
have been entered in the Lightroom catalog. Of course, the Adobe
engineers have made it super useful.
Once a keyword is entered in the Keywording panel or during
import it is listed in the Keyword List panel. It displays the number of
photos carrying a given keyword. Images with multiple keywords
have them highlighted in the Keyword List. Click the arrow to the far
right of a highlighted or checkmarked keyword to show all of the
photographs with that
keyword. Super useful for
finding specific photos



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The engineering team understands how important it is to go for the extra that
makes Lightroom special. Like the amplifiers in Spinal Tap, this is where Lightroom
“goes to eleven.” These settings are found above the preview in the Navigator.

There are five modes in the Library module: Grid (G), Enlarge (E), Compare (C),
Survey (N) and People (O). They are accessed with their keyboard shortcuts, in
the Toolbar or in Lightroom’s Library menu.

Compare is the side-by-side view. Select what you think is the “hero” shot. Use the
arrow keys in this view to compare new photos to your select. When or if you find a
better choice, it can be promoted from candidate to select becoming the new

The Grid is the thumbnail view shown above. Enlargement fills the content with the
selected photo. Click a second time in this view to either fill, 1:1 (view actual
pixels) or enlarge the image to a previously chosen size.

Survey allows several photos to be seen in a larger view at the same time. Photos
not making the cut can be removed. The remaining pictures enlarge to fill the
space available.


I’ll swing back to that one in a minute. Here comes the hedge on that pedantic proclamation—most of the time. K E V I N A M E S . The debate is simply one catalog or many.S E C T I O N 2 ONE CATALOG Lightroom calls its database a catalog. A single catalog that uses all of Lightroom’s many methods of categorizing photographs makes the most sense. There is huge debate about the best way to organize photographs. In my mind there is no debate at all to this one.

Calendars. catalogs and the Highlander have this saying in common: “There can be only one…” MAKE A TEMPORARY CATALOG THE “EXCEPTION” IS TEMPORARY Step Two: Launch Lightroom. nothing gets missed or forgotten. step-by-step is how I set it up. Counting the previews it’s huge—470 gigabytes. Mine is a Drobo Mini that provides serious protection against the failure of any of its four drives. Step Three: Name the catalog using a description of the project. A new catalog has none of the overhead initially. In this case it’s from the Creative Cloud so the name starts with LRCC. Here. The temporary catalog has all of the advantages of Lightroom in a much smaller space.000 photos. Right? Multiple calendars mean missed appointments. If you maintain individual catalogs. 10 . Step One: Connect your traveling hard drive to your computer. to dos or (gasp) anniversaries. so does their size. I start my catalog names with the initials LR for Lightroom and the version number. As catalogs grow. Answer this question: How many calendars do you have? One. When all of the things you have to do or remember are in one place. Choose File > New Catalog… I’ll illustrate this using a temp catalog I made during a trip to three countries in Europe. The exception to the “there can be only one” rule is a temporary catalog made on a trip or a location shoot where carrying the “one” catalog isn’t practical. My Lightroom catalog has just north of 450. your single calendar. Your photographs are the same. Especially when the 1:1 previews and Smart Previews are counted. something is going to get overlooked or forgotten.S E C T I O N 2 | O N E C A T A L O G Think about your catalog of photographs as if it were your calendar.

Step Four: Open Lightroom’s preferences by choosing (Mac) Lightroom > Preferences or (Win) Edit > Preferences.lrcat. The presets folder contains all of the templates and presets in Lightroom’s modules.lrcat It also creates the preview data file. 11 . bus powered USB drives from Western Digital and Seagate are small. Its extension is .S E C T I O N 2 | O N E C A T A L O G Lightroom creates a folder with the Lightroom catalog with the extension . If not. This folder appears in the LRCC folder created in step three.lrdata. light weight and inexpensive. BACKING UP A location project that is managed by a temporary catalog follows the same best practices of backing up photographs that is used in the studio—always maintain three copies. Click the Presets tab. Launch Lightroom by opening its folder then double clicking on the LRCC (Your Project Description). The latter has to be saved using File > Save as…. the backups are not affected by changes unless of course the photographer chooses Edit In… Photoshop instead of Open as Smart Object in Photoshop. Since Lightroom only references the photographs in the catalog. that can be one of them. get a couple portable. The former places a copy in the same folder as the original. I use a Drobo Mini for this job. Use them to make exact copies of your primary hard drive. If you have enough memory cards. then check the box next to Store presets with this catalog.

When the dialog opens I navigate to the Drobo Mini. I usually leave this until the last thing of the day so Lightroom can work on it overnight. With my main Lightroom catalog open. Depending on the number of photos and the size of the location catalog.S E C T I O N 2 | O N E C A T A L O G IMPORT A CATALOG After the project like my European adventure is complete. my primary traveling drive and choose the LRCC Kevin in Europe. I bring my temporary catalog and its accompanying RAW files back to the studio. Lightroom creates a temporary catalog then offers to either leave the photographs on the location drive (bad idea) or copy them to the main photo archive.lrcat. the import can take a significant amount of time. 12 . That’s my choice. I choose File > Import from Another Catalog….

S E C T I O N 3 MANY MANY CATALOG CATALOGS S Should I have a single Lightroom catalog or should I have many?  That was the the first question I asked back in July 2006 when I received a beta version of Lightroom. K E V I VNA N A EML EL SI . Like many. I was sailing in uncharted waters.

You can always return to the original.S E C T I O N 3 | M A N Y C A T A L O G S At first. any work you perform on the photo — such as adding keywords or an edit — is stored in the photo’s record in the catalog as additional metadata. to split my images into several Lightroom catalogs. This caused many. Then. This means when you import photos into Lightroom. let me take a step back for a moment and explain what a catalog is. In this way. editing in Lightroom is nondestructive. you create a link between the photo itself and the record of the photo in the catalog. WHAT’S A LIGHTROOM CATALOG? Adobe describes a Lightroom catalog as a database that stores a record for each of your photos that contains three key pieces of information about each photo: • A reference to where the photo is on your system • Instructions for how you want to process the photo • Metadata. such as ratings and keywords that you apply to photos to help you find or organize them. someone started a rumor and said Lightroom can handle a maximum of 15 thousand images before performance was affected.  Everyone started to repeat that rumor. Before we begin. including myself. unedited photo. Lightroom never changes the actual photos captured by your camera. 14 .

I changed the default preference. • Synchronizing Publish services such as Facebook and Smugmug Hierarchy become complicated. To ensure the Main catalog opened when starting Lightroom. One week I would photograph a sporting event. “Load most recent catalog” to “Prompt me when starting Lightroom” found by clicking on Preference under the Edit menu then click the General tab. Some of these images were not appropriate for all to see. all catalogs have to be updated. For my work flow. • Having extra catalogs mean extra catalogs to backup. I could keep these images private.S E C T I O N 3 | M A N Y C A T A L O G S A CASE FOR MULTIPLE CATALOGS FLAWS WITH MULTIPLE CATALOGS Being a generalist photographer. • Sometimes I would become confused and import images into the wrong catalog. • When a major update rolls out. By creating a separate catalog. the following week a child’s portraits. for example… • When I searched for an image. One catalog was sufficient until I started working with models. my photography spanned a wide range. Lightroom can’t span a search across multiple catalogs. As Lightroom developed. This gave me the option to open the correct catalog and to avoid embarrassment. My modeling assignments ranged from simple head shots to building their portfolios. just one more task to worry about. flaws with multiple catalogs grew. this flaw sealed my decision to switch to a single catalog. I would have to open each catalog.
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16 . age appropriate images are hidden. I fire up Lightroom. After a photo shoot. Now when I browse for a model in front of a client. I created two new folder. my workflow is fast and simple.S E C T I O N 3 | M A N Y C A T A L O G S SINGLE CATALOG SOLUTION Since I switched to a single catalog solution my Lightoom experience has become very simple. Create a collection set of my favorite edited images then upload them to a publishing service such as SmugMug and Facebook. I created sub folders with the names of the models under the appropriate folder. create a new folder and import my images. To solve my modeling dilemma. Adult Models and Children Models. Since switching to a single catalog solution.

if you go into the neighborhood library and move a book from one shelf to another. and Lightroom simply references them. The pictures are actually on the hard drive (the shelf). and it told me where to find the book. The thing is. then Lightroom doesn’t know where it is to reference it any longer. Your photographs reside on your hard drive. When I was a kid I went to the library in my neighborhood and looked in the card catalog for a book I wanted. Lightroom is just a catalog of your pictures. S E C T I O N 4 IMPORTING FROM A MEMORY CARD This is like Lightroom. If you move a picture file outside of Lightroom. The book wasn’t in the catalog. The card in the catalog had information about the book. it was on the shelf. L E V I S I M . the catalog isn’t accurate anymore.It’s important to remember that Lightroom doesn’t have your photographs in it. and Lightroom is the same way. I recommend that you use Lightroom to manage your pictures all the time.

If you don’t check this second option. I usually need to import pictures from a memory card I used in a recent shoot. In the General tab. Personally. This is what the Import Dialogue looks like. 18 . but this is a condensed view. Go to the File Menu and choose Import Photos and Video. Also.S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M A M E M O R Y C A R D OPEN THE IMPORT DIALOGUE Lightroom is so powerful for organizing and finishing your photographs. so I’ll show you how to do that and walk you through the whole import dialogue. Go to the Lightroom Menu and choose Preferences (Edit>Preferences). check the box for Treat JPEG files next to raw files as separate photos. and the first step is to import photographs into Lightroom. and I feel the expanded view will serve you better. make sure the option is checked to Show import dialogue when memory card is detected. or use the keyboard shortcut Cmd+SHIFT+I (Ctrl+SHIFT+I). I use this shortcut all the time. SET THE PREFERENCES The first thing to do is make sure a couple of preferences are set that will make importing a little simpler. Lightroom will ignore the JPEG files your camera creates when you set it to record RAW+JPEG. Click the arrow in the bottom left corner to see more options.

You’ll see all the pictures you made on that card in a grid in the center. Move. Add. At the top left is says Select a source. click on the name of your memory card. you start on the left. If it’s not already selected.S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M A M E M O R Y C A R D CHOOSE THE IMPORT SOURCE CHOOSE WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR PICTURES Basically. it’s usually named for the camera model you used (for some reason. and the memory card you inserted will probably be the first tab on the left under the title Devices. so Move and Add not available (see the chapter on Adding and External Drive). At the top there are four options: Copy as DNG. 19 . and work to the right. In the center section you decide what to do with your pictures. Copy. Here’s what the other options do. my Lumix GX7 always reads as No Name). Lightroom recognizes that your memory card is not a hard drive for longterm storage. and the one selected has a brief description of what it does immediately underneath.

CHOOSE WHICH PICTURES TO IMPORT Now that we’ve chosen to Copy as DNG. in six years of importing files nearly everyday. The Copy and Copy as DNG options are the best because the files remain on your card and a new version is now on the hard drive so you’ve got a solid backup until you format the card in your camera. E and G are two shortcuts I use all the time in Lightroom. pictures of the sidewalk—so that I don’t have to bother with deleting them later. One advantage of this method is that DNG files are significantly smaller than the camera’s RAW format. it’ll be included. You can click on the check box. Most of the time. JPEG’s will still be JPEG’s. or use SPACEBAR to toggle the check box To see which picture is which more clearly. I personally use this option every time. I’m more interested in getting to work on my pictures than I am in saving hard drive space. and so they first copy the files to the hard drive using Finder or Explorer. Previously. use the Thumbnails slider in the bottom right corner to adjust the size of the preview. then use the Add option to include them in the Lightroom catalog. Sometimes I’ll quickly breeze through and uncheck images that are obviously junk—too dark. or use the Grid view icon in the bottom left corner. out of focus. Copy as DNG: New for Lr CC: This makes a new copy of the images from your card on your computer or hard drive and converts RAW files to the Adobe DNG file format. Each thumbnail image has a checkmark in the top left corner.S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M A M E M O R Y C A R D Copy: This option simply copies the files from the card to the hard drive. Lightroom converted the files to DNG as they were imported. Now. and it was much slower than simply copying the files form the card. Press the G key to return to the Grid view. the center section can be used to selectively import photographs. Lightroom has never lost or missed a single one of my files using the import dialogue. There’s a terrific new feature in Lightroom CC that makes this process much faster. Only RAW files are affected. However. then when that is complete it converts the files to DNG. If it’s checked. This is much faster and since you can only import from one source at a time. While the files are converting to DNG you can still begin working with them as normal in Lightroom. Save your paranoia for backing up your files and trust Lightroom to import them. 20 . Lightroom copies the files from the card to the hard drive. you can choose to leave some of the pictures out of the import. it allows you start another import sequence sooner. However. so I just import all the images. You can also double click on an image or press the E key to go to the Loupe view and see one image at a time. Some people have voiced concerns that they don’t trust Lightroom to copy all the files from the card.

Pro Tip: Right click in the dark gray area next to any of the tab headings and choose Solo Mode. too. so now on the right side of the dialogue you get to choose what happens as they import and where they will reside on your hard drive. CHOOSE WHERE TO STORE YOUR PICTURES You’ve selected which pictures to include from the card. so if you’d like you can just set it and move on to the next setting and get started importing. This makes it so that only one tab will show it’s options at a time. I’ve written my usual setting right up front in bold text. but this makes it easier to find the right options and reduces frustration. Just use the slider in the bottom right corner. 21 . and I recommend that you do. I choose Solo Mode for all my tool pallets in Lightroom.
 I’d like you to know what each setting here is for…but I don’t want to bore you. It may not sound like a big deal.S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M A M E M O R Y C A R D While in the Loupe view you can zoom in to check sharpness.

and I use it often. but this takes up a lot of space on the drive. Build Smart Previews: Unchecked Smart Previews allow you to make Develop Module edits to images stored on a hard drive that are not connected to the computer. Build Previews: Standard After the pictures import. you could opt for 1:1 which is a full size. which will take a few seconds. See the Chapter on Smart Previews 22 . and these are simply related to the size of the picture you see. and takes more time up front to generate. but the previews will take up a lot of space on your hard drive. but it makes viewing and developing the picture slower because when you view the picture in Loupe view or in the Develop Module Lightroom will have to generate a bigger preview you can view at that size. so I recommend only generating them when you’re ready to use them. Lightroom will create a preview of the file on the hard drive and this is what you’ll see on the screen. You’ve got four options. especially when there are hundreds of pictures to review.S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M FILE HANDLING A M E M O R Y C A R D Alternatively. I rarely need to have 100% previews for every picture. and they’re in order from smallest to largest. Choosing the Minimal preview makes the import process a little bit faster. 100% preview that will appear crisp and ready to view as soon as you click to zoom. The important thing about each option is that it affects the speed at which things get done. It’s only a few seconds. but doesn’t take up too much space and the previews are ready quickly after the import is finished. but it really slows down the process. Standard is a good compromise because it shows me a good preview immediately in the Loupe. This is really handy.

and nothing is lost on the way and my catalog isn’t fouled up and I’m really not interrupted in anyway. those pictures won’t be available for import when I initiate the second import session. so if my primary drive fails and I have to use the backup it’s a really tedious and possibly costly process to get me back to the way things were before the failure. The idea here is that there is instantly a backup version of your pictures. Don’t Import Suspected Duplicates: Checked This is really good. I leave this unchecked because I use a Drobo for my destination drive. There are two times I use this. when a drive fails. Unfortunately. Second. that requires two import sessions. but maybe after you read the chapter on Collections you’ll find a use for it. Pictures that are already in your catalog appear grayed out and you can’t click on them in the grid view. and Lightroom will now only import the new ones. I now have pictures on the card that I just made.S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M A M E M O R Y C A R D Make a Second Copy To: Unchecked This simply duplicates the files and saves them in another location of your choosing. Add to Collection: Unchecked I’ve never used this option. It simply allows Lightroom to recognize pictures that you’ve already imported and stops you from importing them again. that drive doesn’t have all the changes I make to images applied. I may. You can experiment with a few settings and see where your tolerance for performance lies. First. and it automatically makes a backup of the files and is so simple to manage. sometimes choose to import pictures from one card into two different folders. as well as pictures I’ve already imported. 23 . Edit>Catalog Settings). So after I’ve imported the first batch. if I neglected to format my memory card in my camera after the last import. Using the Drobo. If I check this option and backup to another drive. You can control how big your Standard Previews are and how much space they take up in the Catalog Settings (Lightroom>Catalog Settings. I just remove that drive and put a new one in. for keywording and file naming purposes.

Rename Files: Checked I like to rename my files as I import them. I’ve taken to adding my own name as a precursor to the client name for one reason. In my work. Click Edit at the bottom of the list. I’m often delivering files to my clients which they use for marketing and advertising. which means it’s inappropriate to have my own name signed on the image in a watermark or signature. Another way to do it is to name files by the date. or the name of the place or people you photographed. and you’ll find a whole lot more options for customizing the name of your files. then you may want to follow his advice on naming.S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M FILE RENAMING A M E M O R Y C A R D Template I usually use the Custom Name-Sequence template in the drop down box. If you’ve read Kevin’s chapter about Lightroom Organization. though.
 24 . Using my name in the filename may at least ensure that the next person hired at the company to look for a photographer will have access to my name pretty easily.

which I don’t care for. then I might choose to start at the number after the last image on the previous card. Sample: I think it’s nice that they show a live preview of what the filename will look like. when shooting Nikons. This works for most settings in the Develop Module (however. the Import dialogue remembers your previous settings and uses them again until changed. or leave it as-is. In the Camera Calibration tab you can change this profile to the ones that your camera has so that the image will look in Lightroom the same as it looks on the back of the camera.jpg or .CR2 or whatever file type your camera makes to uppercase. I recommend not applying the Lens Correction settings during import. lowercase. If you change this. 25 . but if I’m importing the second card full from a shoot. Develop Settings: My personal preset Any preset that I’ve made in the Develop Module can be applied during the import process. remember to change it back to 1 next time you import. Since I do this every time. for RAW images. But.NEF or .S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M A M E M O R Y C A R D APPLY DURING IMPORT Start Number: 1…or not I usually start at number 1. For instance. I usually set the in-camera Picture Style to Neutral. I saved the setting as a preset and can now select to apply that preset during import. Lightroom’s default setting is to apply the Adobe Standard profile. apply it later to you favorite images). You’ll see here that I’m applying my preset made especially for my GH4. but you’ve got options to change the . because it slows performance significantly. Extensions: Leave as-is I’ve never bothered with this.

S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M A M E M O R Y C A R D Metadata: My Personal Preset This is really cool. as may be more appropriate. camera settings. your copyright information. placing keywords on only the relevant images. lens info. Your camera already puts information about exposure. you can do it more specifically in the Library Module. You can include all kinds of information about yourself. You can even add them during export. I said I use the filename to put my name in the picture. and even some copyright info. 26 . and you may want to do that generally here. etc. Fortunately. you can add the same fields to any images within the Library Module once the import is done. Click the drop down menu and choose Edit Presets… then just fill in the blanks. There is a lot of information available here. but it’s a good idea to add more complete information during import so that it’s done no matter where your pictures end up going. Keywords: Definitely During import you can add keywords to all the photographs on your card. See the chapter on Keywords to have your mind blown about how useful these are. Metadata is non-visual information in your picture file. but metadata is much better way to do it. your contact information.

and I’m working to switch my system. I usually now use the Destination tab to choose where my photos will go. So. then subfolders for events/shoots. That’s pretty much it because I’ll use collections instead of further subfolders (See Chapter on Collections) . your pictures will now materialize before your eyes. Now. This bar has an X right at the end so you can cancel the process if you realize you did something unintended. just press Import. I have a master folder of Pictures. this is how I have done my organization. I often use the Into Subfolder check box to add the destination under the year I’m working in. Otherwise. I simply navigate on my drive to where I want the pictures to reside. 27 . Now you’ll be taken to the Library Module. I often select Other Destination and navigate manually. Again. then subfolders for each year. Super Simple method: Arrow at the top The simplest way to tell Lightroom where you want your pictures to go is to click the black circle with an arrow in it and navigate to the folder you want or make a new folder in the location you want. and you’ll see a progress bar in the top left corner of the window. This arrow has a drop down menu that includes your recent import destinations. Kevin Ames has some great ideas for organization. But to date.S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M DESTINATION A M E M O R Y C A R D Organize: Into one folder Since Lightroom remembers your last settings.

You are seeing them in a special collection called Previous Import which resides in the Catalog tab of the Library Module.S E C T I O N 4 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M A QUICK SANITY SAVER LIBRARY:CATALOG TAB: PREVIOUS IMPORT A quick note about the view you see as your pictures import. This Catalog tab is really handy. If you’ve already imported some others. There have been times I’ve assigned the wrong folder during import (or export) and when I try to find them in the Folders tab. will not show up on this set of images…which really threw me for a loop when I first used Lightroom. it’s really tempting to freak out because they are lost. then click on All Photographs. More about searching for pictures in the chapter on Metadata. so you can pretty quickly find the pictures your looking for. Take a breath. The pictures you see will be in order by date. like exporting one of these new pictures as a jpeg file. It’s distinct from the folder they reside in because any pictures you add. go the Catalog tab and look for them in the Previous Import set. 28 A M E M O R Y C A R D .

On location. K E V I N A M E S . tethered shooting is into an external hard drive connected to a MacBookPro.S E C T I O N 5 IMPORTING FROM A FOLDER When making photographs in the studio I shoot tethered into an external drive plugged into an older MacPro on a rolling AnthroCart. In both cases there is a folder holding the shots.

The develop preset is the last one used. Step Three: Add the metadata preset. Click Import… or use the keyboard shortcut Command (PC: Control) + Shift + I. Finally click Import. Change it by expanding the condensed dialog by clicking the down arrow in the lower left hand corner. Step Two: Select the source by clicking on the double headed arrow at the left of the dialog.S E C T I O N 5 | I M P O R T I N G F R O M IMPORTING FROM A FOLDER Chances are you have images already in a folder and organized. These are easy to import into Lightroom I copy the folder onto my primary Drobo 5D set up with dual disc redundancy. Once the folder is copied to the main drive. This means any two of the five drives in the Drobo can fail and my data is still safe. The condensed dialog box looks like this: The import process requires three decisions plus presets. 30 A F O L D E R . there are no destination options. follow these steps… Step One: Enter the Library module.” In this case. The folder is already where it needs to be so the “To” reads My Catalog. Lightroom automatically picks Add as the “what to do. When the source is a folder.


” K E V I N A M E S .S E C T I O N 6 TETHERED SHOOTING Tethered shooting is the digital equivalent of taking a Polaroid® in the days of film. lighting. Polaroids were used to check composition. On a job it was unthinkable not to “pull a ‘Roid. exposure and focus. Back then. photography’s big four.

The folder that will appear in Lightroom is named 2889-Model Testing.S E C T I O N 6 | T E T H E R E D S H O O T I N G LIGHTROOM AND THE TETHERED CAMERA Today. The monitor displays the current capture from the camera. Step One: Start with the third section. Thanks to calibration of monitors. This is where the destination for the camera original files are stored. 33 . Most current Canon and Nikon along with a few Leica DSLR cameras can tether to Lightroom. This can’t be achieved using the screen on the back of the camera. Note that as of this writing. photography can finally be WYSIWYG… what you see is what you get. Click here for a list of supported cameras. Click Choose… then navigate to the hard drive that stores your folders of RAW files. Now every square inch of an image can be examined at full size or larger to check the big four and now color as well. Here are the steps to get it right. These monitors can be calibrated. Session Name:. professional photographers shoot directly into a computer. Frankly they are just an indicator for those who believe that quality is the presence of an image. This creates a new folder in the destination folder. Shutter and Aperture settings are not supported. It is Nikon’s problem to solve not Apple’s nor Adobe’s. Lightroom’s tethering allows the shutter to be released from the computer. The reason the destination is in the third section is because once it’s set you probably won’t change it. SETTING UP TETHERING IN LIGHTROOM Begin by choosing File > Start Tethered Shooting… The dialog is a bit confusing. However control of ISO. Mac computers running El Capitan will not tether Lightroom with Nikon cameras. In this case it’s the 2889th project so it gets the prefix 2889-. The tether HUD does show the model of the connected camera along with the current settings. Step Two: Go to the first section. The monitor performs all of the functions that the Polaroid did back in the days of film. This is due to a problem with Nikon’s SDK (Software Development Kit) that has not been updated for El Capitan. The description is Model Testing. Name the session.

in this case 2889.S E C T I O N 6 | T E T H E R E D S H O O T I N G Step Three: Naming is next. No matter what camera or format you shoot with it the Sample will always end in . Click OK. Above the preset is a Sample of what the name of the first photo will look like. the exposure information and a drop down menu to choose a Develop preset. DNG is the extension for the sample only. the destination folder.DNG. Don’t let this bother you. The Tethered Capture Window appears. Click it or press the spacebar to make an exposure. It shows the camera that’s tethered to Lightroom. I’ve created a preset that provides a field for custom text. The Start Number is 1. 34 .DNG. If the Library module is active. The big round button at the right is the shutter release. 2889-0001. the first photo will appear in the Grid view. Step Four: Add your metadata preset (Chapter 3 under Get Organized) and Keywords.

Exposure: Is detail visible in the highlights? How about in the shadows? 4. Lighting: Are the important details in the photograph visible? 3. Use the white balance tool (W) on a ColorChecker to neutralize any colorcast 35 . 1. Focus: Is the subject of the photograph sharp? Once these questions are answered to your satisfaction. While looking learn to actually “see” what’s there. Composition: Are the elements in the photograph arranged well? 2. Here’s a checklist for making certain photographs measure up. An enlarged version will appear as will each subsequent photograph you make. tap E to enlarge it then look at it.S E C T I O N 6 | T E T H E R E D S H O O T I N G Once the first photo appears in Lightroom. tap D to enter the Develop module. .

S E C T I O N 7 BACKING UP ON IMPORT I don’t erase my memory cards until I have at least 2 copies of my photos. One of the best time-savers is to let Lightroom back up your photos on import. N I C K M I N O R E .

Lightroom makes it super-easy to create a second copy.S E C T I O N 7 | B A C K I N G U P O N Inside the import window. I M P O R T Look to the top right of the import window and choose the File Handling dropdown menu. rather than another location on the same hard drive. This way. 37 . It’s always best to make sure you’re backing up to a second hard drive. you’re okay if something was to happen to either drive.

Put a checkmark in the box and click the dropdown arrow..S E C T I O N 7 | B A C K I N G U P O N The last option says “Make a Second Copy To:” with a dropdown arrow. Choose where you’d like to save a backup of your files and continue preparing to import your files into Lightroom.. you’ve now got a backup being made at time of import. 38 I M P O R T . That’s it.

K E V I N A M E S . just like in a file cabinet or on your computer’s hard drive to keep your images organized.S E C T I O N 8 USING FOLDERS & SUBFOLDERS You can user folders.

It gets a project name also know as a serial number and a brief description of its contents.S E C T I O N 8 | U S I N G F O L D E R S Normally. There is s comprehensive discussion of Collections and how to use them in our next chapter. Collections can have the same photo in several places at the same time. SUBFOLDERS The only time I use subfolders is when a project is so large that it covers several months or years. Subfolders get the four digit project number followed by the shoot date then a brief description. Each subfolder is a separate billing item on the invoice the customer receives. Each one gets a subfolder. More on this in the section called Using Serial Names later in this chapter. This is particularly useful when shooting a lot of time-lapse sequences. Duplicates also take up a huge amount of space. This can’t be done with subfolders since Lightroom doesn’t like duplicate images. FOLDERS I assign a folder to each job or project. 40 & S U B F O L D E R S . This structure manages shoots that contain many thousands of photographs made over time. The camera original photographs RAW or (shudder) JPEGs go here for cataloging in Lightroom. When it’s time to sort photographs I use Collections. Folders are where the RAW files from each project are stored on a hard drive or in my case on a Drobo. I work without any subfolders in Lightroom.

If Unless you are working with other photographers in a network environment.folder the first rule in creating a catalog develop a folder structure that makes sense to you. photographers this may get a little complicated causing you to compromise.S E C T I O N 9 Unless you are working with other photographers in a network environment. the first rule in creating a catalog is to develop a structure that makes senseistotoyou. A DIFFERENT TAKE ON FOLDER STRUCTURE V A N E L L I . If you are in a network you environment otherenvironment photographers 
 are in a with network withthis other may get a little complicated causing you to compromise.

Following our file structure. E:\Photography\Louis Davis\20140101 Louis Corporate Portrait E:\Photography\Potter Family\20130411 Liam 4th Birthday All is great. as well as families. celebrities. In the event you photograph this person. After the shoot you create a subfolder with the year.S E C T I O N 9 | A D I F F E R E N T T A K E O N F O L D E R S T R U C T U R E I’ve found it best to write a brief sentence that describes your type of photography and what. Review your sentence and look for a common denominator. family portrait inside the Louis Davis folder. or who you photograph. corporations have a name as does a family. where. corporation or family several times in the course of a few years. not her Our portrait photographer photographs people. Since Pruitt Real Estate paid for the shoot. The common denominator is name. you have each shoot organize. month and day followed by a description. Louis corporate portrait. If she leaves the company. Chloe’s portrait is in the Pruitt Real Estate folder. Examples • I’m a Portrait photographer whose clients include corporate professionals. One of their employees is Chloe Garvin. a client of yours you have photographed before. • I’m an independent Sports photographer specializing in portraits. month and day of the shoot followed by a brief description. month and day followed by a descriptions of the shoot. Louis Davis personally hired you to take his corporate portrait. you placed the image in a folder named Louis Davis with a sub folder named year. Create a subfolder inside the main folder — I named my main folder Photography —  and name the subfolder the client’s name. Create a subfolder inside the client’s folder and name it the year. E:\Photography\Louis Davis\20140307 Family Portrait 42 . the image stays with the company.
 DEALING WITH A CONFLICT PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHER Pruitt Real Estate hired you to photograph 75 of their employees. in fact it's so great he hired you to take a portrait of his family. • I’m a Nature photographer who travels to different locations photographing all types of birds. A person has a first and last name. people associated with a corporation and people associated with a family. team portraits and games for all levels of sports.

Club. Lacrosse. This structure keeps multiple sports and multiple levels organized. month and day of the shoot with a brief description. month and day of the game followed by the names of the team. The final subfolder is the year. To keep our folder structure organized.S E C T I O N 9 | A D I F F E R E N T T A K E O N F O L D E R S T R U C T U R E SPORTS PHOTOGRAPHER DEALING WITH A CONFLICT Our Sports photographer photographs a wide range of sports and sport teams. our photographer also photographs games. The final subfolder is the year. Along with sport portraits. High School. College and Professional teams. E:\Photography\Sports\Professional\Lacrosse\Games \20140909_FloridaLaunch_vs_BostonCanons E:\Photography\Sports\High School Sports\Lacrosse\Melbourne High School 43 .The common denominator is level. the first folder is Sports followed by a subfolder of the level of sport. Sounds simple. We need to create a Games subfolder under the name of the sport. followed by a subfolder of the name of the sport. however our photographer photographs different levels. High School Sports. Inside the Lacrosse subfolder is the Name of the Team’s subfolder. The common denominator is the name of the sport and the name of the team.

Our Nature photographer photographs all types birds. E:\Photography\Egret\201508006 Viera Wetlands E:\Photography\Viera Wetlands\20100512 Limkin 44 . DEALING WITH A CONFLICT If our nature photographer photographs several different types birds on the same day and location using one memory card. Remember. another common denominator. Adding the date enables the photographer to photograph the same bird at the same location but on a different date.S E C T I O N 9 | A D I F F E R E N T T A K E NATURE PHOTOGRAPHER O N F O L D E R S T R U C T U R E The question for our nature photographer is which is more important. they can import all images into one folder then move the images into their proper folder. They can organize the folder structure starting with the name of the bird followed by the location or start with the location followed by a subfolder of the date and name of the bird. These examples serve as a foundation for organizing a catalog’s folder structure. for the structure to be effective. our photographer travels the world photographing these birds in different locations. the location of the shoot or the type of bird they photographed. Our nature photographer has a few options. it must make sense to you. The common denominator is name. Their answer will determine which folder structure they use. However.

They just make sense. It’s clear and makes good sense. Let me quickly show you how to add hard drives to the Lightroom catalog so you can get organized. Since I have lots of drives with picture files on them. K E V LI EN V IA M S IE M S .S E C T I O N 10 ADDING AN EXTERNAL DRIVE I like file trees. too. it’s also nice to see the drives stacked up on the side in Lightroom—it makes it easy to see where I’m working. At a glance I can see that this image is inside this folder which is in this folder which on this drive.

46 . I often use USB thumb drives for delivery to clients—the kind of little storage that plugs into the computer’s USB ports and doesn’t have any moving parts. If you’re planning to add files to it during export. but are small enough to draw the power they need from the USB bus in the computer (no external power required). you will see the drive available for to export images onto. THUMB DRIVES PASSPORT DRIVES I also travel with a couple of passport sized USB hard drives that do spin.S E C T I O N 10 | A D D I N G A N E X T E R N A L D R I V E WHAT’S A HARD DRIVE? You’ll find that you can’t add a hard drive that doesn’t have any pictures on it. I’ve got three or four kinds of hard drives included in my Lightroom Catalog.


10 |







Next, I have hard drives like the Drobo Mini—they are small enough to take with
me, but they are powerful enough that they need external power to spin the drives
and read super fast. The Drobo Mini is a perfect solution for travel because it
stores my files and backs them up so there are two copies so if one drive crashes,
the pictures are still safe.

Lastly, I have drives that are not intended for travel. I’ve got a Drobo 5D on my
desk that has several terabytes of storage in a RAID configuration so everything is
protected from a hard drive crash. I also have another server set up in a similar
manner with everything backed up on multiple drives in a RAID. Trouble is, my
other server is both much larger physically than my Drobo and lacks the battery
backup that the Drobo 5D has built in. So these two servers stay at my office and
when I return from traveling my pictures end up getting moved to these.



10 |







Since it’s time for some more storage, let’s add a drive so Lightroom can see it.

Unlike when you plug an SD or CF card into the computer, Lightroom does not
automatically launch the import dialog when you plug in an external hard drive.
There are two ways to get to the Import Dialog, File>Import Photos and Video…,
or use the keyboard shortcut Cmd+SHIFT+I (Ctrl+SHIFT+I).

Strange as it may seem, some people use computers for things other than making
pictures. Weird, right? Well, that just means that an external hard drive may have
something other than pictures on it. I recommend making a parent folder on the
drive with all your pictures in it. Then put all the folders with your images in them
inside this folder. I may get creative with my hard drive names, but this parent
folder is simply called “Pictures” on each of my drives. I’m a simple guy in the

If you don’t see the expanded view of the Import Dialog, click the arrow in the
bottom left corner to see more options.

Name your Hard Drives
Personally, I like to name my hard drives. The C drive, or the E drive
is pretty boring for me. Plus, when using external drives, I often have
several from the same manufacturer, and it’s confusing trying to keep
them separated. Instead of Drobo 1, Drobo 2, etc., I like to give them
a name, and I like to use names of famous robots. You could use any
name you like—maybe name them for your uncles, or you childhood
pets, or your favorite teachers—trust me, asking a friend to hand you
“that black hard drive” isn’t nearly as fun as saying, “Please pass R2D2 over here.”



10 |







In the Import Dialog, start at the top left and use the Source menu choose the
source you want to import from—the Pictures folder on your hard drive. Make sure
to check the box for Include Subfolders so that everything in that folder will be
included in the import.

You’ll see that the only option in the center for what to do with your images is Add.
Thank goodness for that! I could really foul things up if other options were
available here.

Solo Your Tabs
Right click in the dark gray area next to any of the tab headings and
choose Solo Mode. This makes it so that only one tab will show it’s
options at a time. It may not sound like a big deal, but this makes it
easier to find the right options and reduces frustration. I choose Solo
Mode for all my tool pallets in Lightroom, and I recommend that you
do, too.



10 |





On the right side you’ll find two options for handling the files as they are imported.
Pay attention here: these settings stay as they were last time you imported, which
was probably from a memory card. When importing from a hard drive you need to
change these settings significantly, or you’ll really foul up and pictures that were
previously altered in Lightroom.

Now yu need to decide what o do with your files on that new drive
Build Previews: Standard After the pictures import, Lightroom will create a
preview of the file on the hard drive and this is what you’ll see on the screen.
You’ve got four options, and these are simply related to the size of the picture you
see, and they’re in order from smallest to largest. The important thing about each
option is that it affects the speed at which things get done.
Build Smart Previews: Unchecked Smart Previews allow you to make Develop
Module edits to images stored on a hard drive that are not connected to the
computer. This is really handy, and I use it often, but the previews will take up a lot
of space on your hard drive, so I recommend only generating them when you’re
ready to use them. See the Chapter on Smart Previews

Choosing the Minimal preview makes the import process a little bit faster, but it
makes viewing and developing the picture slower because when you view the
picture in Loupe view or in the Develop Module Lightroom will have to generate a
bigger preview you can view at that size, which will take a few seconds. It’s only a
few seconds, but it really slows down the process, especially when there are
hundreds of pictures to review. Alternatively, you could opt for 1:1 which is a full
size, 100% preview that will appear crisp and ready to view as soon as you click
to zoom, but this takes up a lot of space on the drive, and takes more time up front
to generate.
I rarely need to have 100% previews for every picture. Standard is a good
compromise because it shows me a good preview immediately in the Loupe, but
doesn’t take up too much space and the previews are ready quickly after the
import is finished.


these develop settings could be completely ruined if I apply one of my import presets. 51 . You may have already worked on these images in Lightroom—sorted. some of my drives have pictures from Nikon. If we don’t include them in the import. they still exist on the drive. but will be orphaned from Lightroom. and even developed them—and applying any of these settings may alter what you’ve already done. rated. Keywords: Set them all to None and leave blank. and if you had files here that are also elsewhere. and I’ve already made develop adjustments. This is also different from what I suggested from importing from a card. For instance. Include them in the import so that you can see them and manage them with all your other image files. Now just press the Import button at the bottom right of the window. CONCLUSION When the Import is finished. that’s ok. and Panasonic cameras on them. you’ll see your new drive added as a tab on the left side in the Library Module and your complete file tree of any folders that contained images will be available without any changes made. Metadata.S E C T I O N 10 | A D D I N G A N E X T E R N A L D R I V E APPLY DURING IMPORT Develop Settings. You’ll be able to click into any of your folders and have your pictures at your fingertips. Don’t Import Suspected Duplicates: Unchecked This is a change from what I told you to do in the Chapter on Importing from a Memory Card. I’d uncheck this box here because we’re importing a file structure that you already had on your drive. Canon.

S E C T I O N 11 Unless you are working with other photographers in a network environment. in a network environment with other photographers this may get a little complicated causing you to compromise. If I am a keyboard shortcut (KBS) advocate and self proclaimed super user to the point that I that havemakes to thinksense aboutto which menu a function is under when using a mouse to choose. the first rule in creating a catalog is to develop a folder structure you. Here are the ones I use you aremost. TEN KEYBOARD SHORTCUTS K E V I N A M E S .

S E C T I O N 11 | T E N K E Y B O A R D S H O R T C U T S G Grid mode in the Library module E Loupe mode enlarges the most selected photo in the Grid mode N Survey mode puts only selected photos on the screen F2 Rename selected photos Cmd + Shift + I ! Ctrl+Shit+I Import images
 F Full Screen Preview Shift + Tab Hides Lightroom’s sidebars and filmstrip for more room Shift + F Cycle screen modes to create more display real estate 1-5 Star Rating Cmd + / ! ! Ctrl+/ Display Keyboard Shortcuts! 
 53 .

the first rule in creating a catalog is to develop a thatabsolutely makes sense If Many photographers are passionate about their naming conventions. photographers this may get a little complicated causing you to compromise. in the file name. Somefolder insiststructure that the date musttobeyou. Others agree but say the client’s name and job description has to be are in itin too. Still others want to addwith the other you a network environment location to the file name. USING SERIAL NAMES K E V I N A M E S .S E C T I O N 12 Unless you are working with other photographers in a network environment.

Lightroom adds it to each file as it’s imported.CR2. The rest gets added when the photos are imported. 55 . Some of it is already in the file. Really? Here’s what a set of these files look like in the Finder and in Lightroom… Is all that information necessary??? Yes.S E C T I O N 12 | U S I N G S E R I A L N A M E S FILE NAMING: THE VALUE OF SERIAL NUMBERS Adding all of this information might produce a file name like this one: 2015-09-27 Amy Patterson Beauty Portfolio Photographs at Kevin Ames Photography Atlanta GA. The Date: The camera adds it when the shutter is released. The Location: Put the location in the preset and you’re set. it is necessary. Put the description in the Headline field of your metadata preset. Here’s the break down. The Subject: It’s found in two places: If it’s in the folder name Lightroom adds it.

I add a serial number to everything I shoot. Let’s look at the dictionary: serial number |ˈsɪriəl ˈnəmbər| noun a number showing the position of an item in a series.S E C T I O N 12 | U S I N G S E R I A L N A M E S What’s missing is a way to know right away what is missing.CR2. Everything else is in the metadata. The serial number tells me that nothing is missing. Every vacation. That’s its job. The example I showed above is now 2878-0341. Each new project gets the next serial number in line. Every job. I put the serial number on the folder the photos are in. especially one printed on paper currency or on a manufactured article for the purposes of identification. There is no way to tell if a date is missing because nobody does a project every day. Every project. 
 That’s where the serial number comes in. Every thing. That’s all I need. Each photo gets the serial number for its project in front of the image number and extension. Every bit of personal work. 56 . You don’t have to change your file naming if you really love it. The folder It’s in is named 2876-Amy Patterson Beauty Portraits. Do seriously consider adding a serial number followed by a dash to the beginning of each folder containing your photographs. A missing number is a series is obvious.

S E C T I O N 12 | U S I N G S E R I A L N A M E S Add the same serial number and a dash to the front of the existing file name. date. 
 The Loupe View displays metadata. 57 . I plug it into the top of Lightroom’s Library Filter Bar and all the photos appear. Set it up using Command (PC: Control) + J. description and location. If they are in different folders a right click shows me where it’s located on my Drobo. Once I look up a serial number. I keep a spreadsheet with my projects listed by serial number.


S E C T I O N 13 Unless you are working with other photographers in a network environment. Up to this point. photographers this may get a little complicated causing you to compromise. USING CUSTOM & SERIAL NAMES V A N E L L I . the first rule in creating a catalog is to develop a folder structure that makes sense When I first started using Lightroom in 2006. I used the default filename my camera provided. followed by a four with 
 youtypically are in aDSC network environment other digit numbering sequence. If my catalog. I was excited I could rename my images as I imported them into 
 to you.

 NUMBERING SEQUENCE Unhappy with the filename. GOOGLE SEARCH GUIDELINE I turned to Google for advice. They suggested to make your filename a good description of the subject matter of the image. By giving my images a descriptive name. I searched for a better naming solution. Although I liked the idea I could find my images on the internet. I asked several photographers what naming convention they used and why. This solution gave me the best of both worlds.JPG. This descriptive filename can give Google clues about the subject matter of the image. I have about 197. This option could create duplicate filenames if you photograph a person or the same location on a regular basis.NEF. I received lots of advice and settled on using my name plus the four numbering sequence the camera provided. I could find them outside of Lightroom on my local computer plus find them on the net.jpg is a lot more informative than DSC0806. Example: Valley-of-Fire-0001. I prefer to keep my camera’s default numbering sequence. I had a hard time locating images outside of Lightroom on my local computer. when a person performed an internet search on Vanelli. For example.000 photos in my Lightroom Catalog and have yet to have a duplicate name. my images would appear. 60 . Once Google changed how images were index. I've heard photographers suggest to always start the numbering sequence at zero when importing your images into Lightroom. This came at a price. The rational. Example: vanelli-0715. Valley-ofFire-0806.

Example: Jaci Schreckengost-6117-2BW.jpg.NEF 61 . If I make multiple edits to an image. PORTRAITS: N A M E S Full Name-sequence number Delaney Goff-3497. This tells me I edited the original file Jaci Schreckengost-6117. Example: Jaci Schreckengost-6117.NEF becomes Jaci Schreckengost-6117.NEF twice plus I made this copy Black and White.NEF EVENTS: Year_Month_Day-sequence number_Team name_vs_Team name 2014_05_03-1005_Syracuse_vs_Colgate. I add a version number after the sequence number plus added information if I need it.NEF LOCATION: Year_City_State-sequence number 2015_Saint Augustine_FL-1030.S E C T I O N 13 | U S I N G C U S T O M & S E R I A L EXPORTING IMAGES SUGGESTIONS Now that I have my naming structure set.jpg when exported.jpg WILDLIFE: Name-sequence number Baby_Limpkin-0116. I keep the same structure when I export my images.NEF ARTWORK: Name of the art piece-original sequence number The Aviator-0806. The only difference is the file extension.

S E C T I O N 14 EXPORTS I’m a bit of a nut. L E V I S I M . I actually have a few systems that I stick to religiously. and I while I may seem pretty carefree and easy going about many things.

I just manage that with my email application or CD burning application. Well. EXPORT LOCATION Export settings are sticky. It’s not the most efficient method. 
 ALWAYS ADD TO THIS CATALOG If you always use Lightroom to view. lock the bag. because it means I can export individual images to the same place really quickly as I go through a set of images. Join me for a shoot and you’ll definitely hear me say. and a few seconds compounded over my last six years of Lightroom use adds up to several hours saved. but the shortcut is just that much faster. The first option at the top is Export To: with options for Email. If it’s going in an email. or you could right click on an image and select Export. “If you close a bag. I always choose Hard Drive. or delete it. then you’ll never have any trouble with Lightroom losing track of images. It opens the Export Dialog and I use it several times each day. You could also go up to the File Menu. The only thing Lightroom can do to your original image file is update the metadata. ALWAYS USE LIGHTROOM. EXPORT DIALOG A Quick Note About Exporting Select the picture or pictures you want to export. which means that whatever settings you choose this time will be the same settings the dialog begins with when you open it next time. Always using Lightroom includes making sure that all my exported images show up in Lightroom.S E C T I O N 14 | E X P O R T S I’ve just found that things work best when i always do things the same way. edit. you’ve got to create a new image file by exporting.” You’ll probably hear me say to put zippers in the middle so I always know where they are. and CD/ DVD. I love this. then open the Export Dialog. If you want to send a picture to someone or post it online with Develop edits. too. it only updates a file’s metadata. or onto a CD. 63 . Let me show you how I use the Export Dialog to keep my all my images under control all the time. Hard Drive. join me for a Lightroom class and you’ll certainly hear me say to use Lightroom to manage all your images all the time. move it. as well as other plugins you have. but I often get excited about a few images and want to share them right away while the rest of the pictures may not ever make it to a publicly viewable place. and it won’t apply Develop changes to the original file. and I always remind myself to put one leg of a tripod downhill so it doesn’t tip easily. This is a keyboard shortcut I highly recommend you remember: Cmd+SHIFT+E. Lightroom doesn’t have a Save function. and move your images. This makes my workflow simpler and keeps my stress levels down—there’re few things that give me as big a thrill of fear as seeing that little question mark on a folder indicating that something is missing.

Add to This Catalog CHECK THIS BOX! My workflow differs from some of the other authors in this option. I often use the check box to Put in Subfolder. I usually then choose to Use Unique Names. with Lightroom’s new abilities. Existing Files: This box is talking about what happens when you have a two files of the same name in a single folder. I like to see them all right before my eyes. I use Lightroom to manage all my image files all the time. Put in Subfolder In both cases above. Like I said above. Having said that. or simply “Email” or “Facebook” so it’s easy to find them in my folder If I’m just exporting a few pictures to email to a client or to share on social media. so it shows up in the filmstrip right next to the original files.S E C T I O N 14 | E X P O R T S Export To: Specific folder. I usually gather several images in a single folder so that I can find them easily for posting even if they are from separate folders on my hard drives. Choose folder later. 64 . The Choose button is how to select where your pictures will end up when you select Specific folder. I typically don’t stack up my files in the filmstrip. or Same folder as original folder. I like the option Ask what to do because it reminds me that this file already exists there. For instance. when I’m writing an article for Photofocus. I can also easily find these files to delete them when I’m done using them. Then I’ll choose a name like the subject of my article. which means new pictures created by export must be added to the catalog or else I won’t be able to manage them in Lightroom. The new file maintains the original file’s metadata about creation time. then I usually use the Same folder as original photo option and then navigate to the folder when prompted by the email or web page to attache the photos. I usually use the first option and the last option. I think it could be really useful to stack HDR sequences and all the photos used in a Panorama. Add to Stack I leave this box unchecked.

and you can select them all and drag them together to a better folder location. 65 . I go the Library Module and on the left side under the Catalog Tab there’s a helpful option called Added by Previous Export. which makes them really hard to find. Lightroom is smart enough to simply add a -1 to the end of the filename for me. It’s quick and simple and gets me moving on to the next picture quickly. Which Folder? If I’m exporting several images from separate folders (such as pictures gathered in a Collection) I may mistakenly select Same folder as original photo as the Export To: option. Click here and you’ll see a collection of all the new pictures you just made.S E C T I O N 14 | E X P O R T S I run into this when I’ve exported one file. Whew! This little collection has saved me a ton of trouble over the years. Check out the other options here—you can bet I’ve used them all when I’ve made a mistake. In this case. which will put all the new exported files into their respective original folders. then gone on to another picture and entered the Export Dialog and then just hit Enter to export with the same settings as the last one—which includes the same name.

You never know when a new marketing director will be hired and not know anything about who made pictures previously. a DPX image sequence is a professional exchange format used in high end video work. and the places you want to be associated with may help drive traffic your way). your own name. or a name that will help with Search Engine Optimization (I’m no specialist on SEO. You can choose to export a file that’s optimized for web and mobile as a H.264 file than you can choose from four quality options. However. 66 . but I understand that the file name may help people find you when the image is shared online—things like the subject of the photo. Medium and Low. It’s so cool that we can grade video and even edit clips in Lightroom. If you choose to export an image sequence (DPX file) than you can specify a frame rate of either 24. or 30 frames per second. I leave Extensions set to Lowercase so that the filename isn’t SHOUTING at a reader. 25. The least compressed is Max.264 file.S E C T I O N 14 | E X P O R T S FILE NAMING VIDEO I usually check the box to Rename To: and then I select Custom Name-Sequence. followed by High. and I can choose where that number starts. The Original. I almost always include my name in the file name for one reason: sometimes down the road it’ll be a lot easier to find me again to do more work. I figure this is one way I can make sure they know where previous picture came from. In the Custom Text field I enter a descriptive name. unedited file can also be saved for processing in another application. then when you export a video file you’ll just get the same file you started with—and that was really frustrating me for a while! Video Format. Quality. if you don’t check the box for Include Video Files. The Sequence part just adds a number to the end of the file name. If recompressing to a H. If you want the maximum image quality.

I leave it unchecked. and probably kinda green. Image Format: I usually choose JPEG because I’m usually generating a new file to be shared with a client as a final image. The internet sees color in sRGB. 
 If you choose DNG. I will often create a DNG file. I’ll just tell you that the visible difference between 90 and 100 is imperceptible. you may be able to use Adobe 1998. and it can mean the difference between a file small enough to email. I usually set it at 75 for sharing online and I can’t see any degradation. But unless your sending it to another imaging professional. If you’re sending it to me.S E C T I O N 14 | E X P O R T S FILE SETTINGS Quality: This setting is good to adjust because it has a huge impact on your file size. too. but you should consult with your lab first. This means that if I email you a DNG. the photo will probably look really terrible. choose sRGB. Also. but the file size is a lot smaller at 90. or sharing a file online. then you’ll see that several of the following options are not available. and you open in Lightroom or Adobe Camera RAW. or for sharing on social media. If you choose anything else. DNG is also the only RAW format Lightroom will export. use sRGB. which is powerful because it keeps the all the settings I made in the Develop Module. If you send it to a lab for printing. and one that is just too large to manage. 67 . use ProPhoto RGB because I’ll be viewing it in Lightroom and Lightroom can interpret that many colors. There are loads of article online about exactly what settings have what impact. you’ll see all the settings placed where I put them. and the difference between each of these three options is huge. Color Space relates to how many colors can be seen in your image. If you’re emailing a final image to a client. It’s been a powerful teaching tool. Color Space: This is a really important setting. Limit File Size To: This is handy if you’ve been given specific guidelines for how large an image file may be—as with many online photo contests—otherwise. and you could make further adjustments to the original image yourself.

that camera companies have us 68 . Lightroom itself does a pretty fine job of making a small picture larger. and you get the number of Megapixels your camera sensor records. or for my clients to share images online. Megapixels. and Percentage. Long Edge. Short Edge. then. There are options for Width and Height. You're camera makes a picture that is a certain number of pixels wide. I usually choose 240 pixels per inch and I uncheck the box to Resize to Fit. but if I’m printing with a lab I’ll choose Glossy Paper (yes. you might be exporting a batch of images all at once. I always use this. My most common choice is Long Edge. Check the box to Sharpen For: and choose the option that best fits your viewing intention. even if I choose a ‘Matte’ paper from my lab. I also set the resolution to 72 pixels per inch when sharing online. and even Lightroom Mobile (which uses smart previews created at this size). If I’m using a fine art paper either in my own printer or with a lab—especially those from ink jet printers—I’ll choose Matte Paper. though. but some are cropped smaller than the output dimensions you’ve specified) then you can check the Don’t Enlarge box. by a certain number of pixels high. and then I set the length to 2048 pixels—which makes an optimal image for sharing on Facebook. I find that matte photographic paper from a local store is usually just a textured glossy paper). When the Amount is set to Standard it’s really not that big a difference between them to my eyes. Dimensions. if I tell Lightroom to export a new picture with dimensions great than that.S E C T I O N 14 | E X P O R T S IMAGE RESIZING using this number to compare the capabilities of cameras?). Multiply these two numbers. and I’ve had good results. OUTPUT SHARPENING If I’m exporting for print. Instagram. even if I’ve already sharpened in the Develop Module (which I usually haven’t). Don’t sweat it if you forget to change this option. it will resize the image to become larger—and it does a pretty good job! I could go to Photoshop or onOne Perfect Resize. Resize to Fit: I often use this to resize images for sharing online. For instance. That’s all that megapixels means—the size of the picture (isn’t it silly. If you don’t want Lightroom to make the image larger (for instance. but for most work. Now. my 16 megapixel Lumix GH4 makes an image 4608 pixels wide by 3456 pixels high. mine is usually set to Screen.

However. I suggest you at least include your own copyright info with the image. and sometimes it’s outright 69 . First and foremost. any image posted online is likely to be copied and used somewhere else—sometimes harmlessly. without having to look very far. exposure settings. Photoshop. and I’m not an expert on copyright (I recommend you to the many excellent resources published by the American Society of Media Professionals at ASMP. and I want the keywords associated with it to show up. these keywords may help with SEO. and even if I used a flash. Since I’m an educator and I love to share my pictures and how they were made. metadata includes a lot of information that you can’t see in a picture. even I know that sticking my name and/or logo on an image is a good idea for two for factual advice on copyright). and have probably already sharpened your image in Develop Module. and I don’t use Lightroom’s person identification tools so I’m not worried about the checkboxes for removing those. it helps people find me. METADATA Remember. and it helps answer one of Photographers’ most often asked questions: how do I protect my copyright? I’m no lawyer. There’s a lot to consider as you choose which things to Include. What ever you do.cgi) I don’t even mind if you know where I took the image. as I discussed above. I want this new exported image to show up in Lightroom. then you’re probably more skilled at sharpening than I am. and you should uncheck the box :) This is one of the best tools in Lightroom. I’ve left mine set to All Metadata. the creator of the image. Plus. The fact is. or some other application. I usually use Jeffrey Friedl’s Exif viewer at regal. (To read metadata. I do check Write Keywords as Lightroom Hierarchy because. so if you use a metadata reader on my images on Photofocus you’ll find all the information about how I made my picture including what camera.S E C T I O N 14 | E X P O R T S WATERMARKING If you see a big difference.

are not trying to rip you off. A bit of unsolicited advice: don’t put your name in big letters across the middle of an image you share on social media. so the options are not available. placement— start by typing in the field underneath your image. than a bright spot in a picture. what better way to let people know where it came from than to have your name or logo in the corner of the image. It’s a lot harder for someone to claim innocence if they had to actively remove your watermark from the picture before using it. with loads of options for fonts. When you post an image with big letters on it. I can’t enjoy the picture itself because all I can see is the word. Just click on the word Graphic at the top left and then find any jpeg or png file and you can use that as your watermark. To me. Text watermarks are fine. Watermarks cannot be applied to DNG files.S E C T I O N 14 | E X P O R T S theft. I wish there was a freehand placement option. if you ever pursue one to have placed your name on the image. click the checkbox that says Watermark: and then choose Edit Watermarks… from the drop down menu. Most people. but as it is you can get your watermark to appear almost anywhere on the image by using the Anchor and Inset options. It’s good to note that the Watermark Editor window can be resized as large as you like to see how your watermark will appear on the preview image. If you’ve already made some custom watermark settings. colors. Lightroom will use the information from your IPTC entries to tag the image. With that. it deters people from stealing it. and you can use the arrow keys at the top to cycle to the next image if you’ve selected more than one for import. If you choose the Simple Copyright Watermark. too. But it also deters people from enjoying it! Words steal the mind’s attention even faster WATERMARKING EDITOR This is a pretty self explanatory tool. Your watermark will appear with the same settings in all the images. and you’d do well to spend a few minutes playing with the different options. and if they share a photograph online. those will be available in the drop down menu. it probably does help a copyright suit. that’s free advertising. though. but on of the best things about tool is the simplicity of adding a Graphic watermark. It’s simple to create a text watermark. weights. Second. 70 . Yes.

sometimes a watermark looks good in the bottom left corner. Is it’s purpose to main attraction of your image? Or is it an unobtrusive calling card ready when needed? POST-PROCESSING In my work. I always leave the After Export: options set to Do nothing. This is one tool I’ve never used. You can set it to open your new file in another application. and other times it looks best in the top left. I do it from Lightroom so that the new file will be imported back into Lightroom when I close. Lightroom will maintain the transparent background in the watermark and you’ll have your logo looking great on your images. Logo TL. then saving it a . For instance. and Logo TR (top right). Consider the objective of your watermark and size it accordingly with the right amount of opacity. 71 .S E C T I O N 14 | E X P O R T S Make a watermark in Photoshop by creating a graphic and placing it on a transparent background. I save a watermark with an indicator at the end reminding me where it falls on the picture so that I can choose the right one from the Export Dialog without entering the Watermark Editor each time. Logo BR. I’ve saved one watermark of my logo for each corner and they are called Logo BL. if I ‘m going to open it in a another application. or Show in Finder.png file. Hit the save button in the bottom right corner to use this Watermark again. myself.


metadata contains valuable information about a photo. such as height. In photography. Most digital cameras automatically attach some basic information about a file. V A N E L L I . file format.S E C T I O N 1 THE VALUE OF METADATA Metadata is a set of data that describes and gives information about other data. width. and the time the image was taken.

Fortunately. however. USER ENTERED METADATA Tagging images. Disciplining yourself to add key information – copyright information.S E C T I O N 1 | T H E V A L U E O F M E T A D A T A THE VALUE OF METADATA This is great. don’t worry. then batch enter the information. You can search images that don’t have copyright information. The same can be applied to untitled filenames. This information can be used to search and organize images in our Lightroom catalog. select them all. Your search results will only be as good as the information you entered in the metadata. creating a rating system and adding keywords to images can be time consuming. The key is to add information to an image that will help you to quickly find them in the future. Lightroom makes adding copyright information. proper filenames. Lightroom’s filter options will help you to find missing metadata so you can add this information. 74 . keywords – to your images when importing them will keep your photographs organize and cut down on the amount of time you need to manually enter this information. FILTERING MISSING METADATA If you haven’t started adding metadata to your images. applying keywords or adding labels to an image’s metadata easy. the real power of metadata is when data and information is entered into the image file by users.

such as the author’s name.S E C T I O N 2 ADDING METADATA ON IMPORT Metadata is a set of standardized information about a photo. Lightroom makes adding this information to our images very easy especially when we import the images for the first time. and keywords applied to it. The import dialog box appears. resolution. copyright. Open the Import dialog by clicking File then select Import Photos and Video. V A N E L L I . color space.

You've already learned that s a good idea to add copyright information to your images. add your name in the Creator field. 76 . scroll down to the IPTC Copyright section and fill it out. Most cameras have this feature built in – you may need to look through your camera's manual to find where to add the information – but Lightroom makes this task really easy by creating a preset. and add as much contact information as you wish. The copyright metadata can also supply information on how to contact you if they need permission to use your photo. Click the drop down next to Metadata. • On a PC use the numeric keypad. The Copyright Info URL field is used to provide a link to somewhere on your website where you have posted specific rights and usage terms for your photos. Make sure that it is sufficient that someone can successfully contact you if they come across your photo. COPYRIGHT METADATA • To create the © symbol on a Mac. and choose New – or Edit if you have an existing preset. Step Two: Type a name for the preset at the top. Press and hold the Alt key then type 0169. In the IPTC Creator section. press Option+G.S E C T I O N 2 | A D D I N G M E T A D A T A O N I M P O R T Step One: On the right side is the Apply During Import panel. This allows anyone viewing your image on the web or preparing the file for print at a printing lab to determine who owns the copyright of the image and what they can do with it.

This preset will now show in the Apply During Import dialog as the default. and this information will be applied automatically as you import new photos. 77 . click Create.S E C T I O N 2 | A D D I N G M E T A D A T A O N I M P O R T Step Three: When you are done.

Lightroom provides several ways to apply keywords to photos.S E C T I O N 3 ADDING KEYWORDS Keywords describe the contents of a photo. search for. Once applied. Once keywords are added to an image. and quickly find photos in a catalog with thousands of images. or drag photos to specific keywords in the Keyword List panel. a thumbnail badge will display when in Grid view. A successful keyword workflow will help identify. You can type or select them in the Keywording panel. V A N E L L I . keywords can be read by any application that support XMP metadata.

You can add. 79 . This ensures the same spelling each time plus it speeds up the process. type one keyword at a time in the small field that says “Click here to add keywords. be sure to add a comma to separate each word. Lightroom stores the information in a list.” Press enter to add the keyword to the white keyword box. Lightroom automatically adds a comma to separate multiple keywords when using this method. Each method requires that you select at least one photo. These words can be found in the Keyword List Panel. edit or delete keywords from this panel by right mouse clicking on a word. Lightroom displays a dropdown list with the previous words you entered. When you start to type a word. When a keyword is added to an image. With an image selected. You can type directly in the keyword box.S E C T I O N 3 | A D D I N G K E Y W O R D S KEYWORDING PANEL KEYWORD LIST PANEL There are a few different methods of applying keywords to an image.

type one or more keywords. Right-click (Windows) or Control-click (Mac OS) on one keyword in the Keyword List panel and choose Use This As Keyword Shortcut from the menu. you apply it to multiple images. Step One: In the Library module. separating them with commas. and then click Save.S E C T I O N 3 | A D D I N G K E Y W O R D S CREATE KEYWORD SHORTCUTS Keyword shortcuts let you quickly apply one or more keywords to multiple photos. 80 . After you define the shortcut. Step Two: In the Set Keyword Shortcut dialog box. A Plus sign (+) next to a keyword in the Keyword List panel indicates that it is part of the current keyword shortcut.

select one or more photos in the Gridview . 81 . A checkmark with indicate the image has the keyword shortcut applied.S E C T I O N 3 | A D D I N G K E Y W O R D S APPLY KEYWORDS USING SHORTCUTS Step One: To apply the keyword shortcut. go to the Keywording Panel and select Will Export from the Keyword Tag dropdown menu. Step Two: Click the small box next to the keyword shortcut in the Keyword List panel. Step Three: To view the keyword for the selected images.

The best time to rename your files in when you’re first importing them into Lightroom. N I C K M I N O R E .S E C T I O N 4 FILE RENAMING ON IMPORT Giving our images descriptive filenames helps keep everything organized both inside and outside of Lightroom.

We can choose one of Lightroom’s built-in templates by clicking on the Template dropdown or create our own custom template by clicking on Edit.S E C T I O N 4 | F I L E R E N A M I N G On the right side of Lightroom’s import window. go ahead and delete it. Continuing on. On the File Renaming panel. This will let us add descriptive text to the beginning of our filename. find Custom Text and click the Insert button. toggle open the File Renaming panel. If there’s anything already in the white box at the top. so we don’t want to add the actual text in here. Remember that we’re building a template right now. we can customize our template. Let’s choose to build our own template. Near the bottom of the window. 83 . so click on Edit. Put a check where it says Rename Files to enable this feature. there’s a box for our custom text that we can use each time we import new images. O N I M P O R T Inside the Filename Template Editor. I added an underscore by pressing Shift-Hyphen on your keyboard.

This is so we can import up to 9999 images at one time without a duplicate image number. make sure to specify a destination for Lightroom to import your images to. 2015-03-16_ND_Scout_ I like to add a reverse date (2015-03-16 or 20150316) and then the name of my photo shoot. Before you click import. If it’s good. without putting spaces in the name. 2015-03-16_ND_Scout_0001.S E C T I O N 4 | F I L E R E N A M I N G These images need to be kept in sequential order. hover your mouse over the sample text and a box will appear with your filename. O N I M P O R T With Custom Settings selected as the Template. Lightroom gives us a sample filename on top of the white box. Look up into the white space at the top of the Filename Template Editor and make sure there isn’t a duplicate number. Lightroom will rename your photos automatically. Click Insert to add it to the template. so you won’t need to put it in the Custom Text box. If there is. 84 . Adding a hyphen or underscore helps to separate words in the filename. If you can’t see all the text. Lightroom will add the sequence number at the end of your filename. we can now add Custom Text. Take a look at the example filename and make sure that’s how you want it to look. then click Done.nef Double-check the sample text and make sure it looks good. click on the blue box you want to delete and press Delete on the keyboard. so under numbering choose the Sequence # dropdown and make sure it has 4 digits (0001). When you click Import.


S E C T I O N 5 BATCH RENAMING Your images are already in Lightroom. Lightroom has a built-in Rename Photos command that gives you the same options as when you first import your images. and you’ve never given them a descriptive name. N I C K M I N O R E .

This will let us add descriptive text to the beginning of our filename. choose Rename Photos.S E C T I O N 5 | B A T C H R E N A M I N G First select the images you’d like to rename. asking you to select a renaming preset. If there’s anything already in the white box at the top. go ahead and delete it. you can choose one of the build-in templates or create your own. so we’ll build our own using the Edit option. Creating our own gives us the ultimate flexibility. 87 . A quick way to select all images is using the keyboard shortcut Command or Control-A. BUILDING THE TEMPLATE From the Library menu. If you’ve never created a renaming preset. Clicking on Edit opens the Filename Template Editor. find Custom Text and click the Insert button. Near the bottom of the window. A popup box will appear.

With Custom Settings selected as the Template. then click Done. I added an underscore by pressing Shift-Hyphen on your keyboard. Take a look at the example filename and make sure that’s how you want it to look. Lightroom gives us a sample filename on top of the white box. we can now add Custom Text. so we don’t want to add the actual text in here. If it’s good. This is so we can import up to 9999 images at one time without a duplicate image number. there’s a box for our custom text that we can use each time we import new images. Continuing on. If there is.S E C T I O N 5 | B A T C H R E N A M I N G Remember that we’re building a template right now. so under numbering choose the Sequence # dropdown and make sure it has 4 digits (0001). 88 . Click Insert to add it to the template. Look up into the white space at the top of the Filename Template Editor and make sure there isn’t a duplicate number. On the File Renaming panel. These images need to be kept in sequential order. click on the blue box you want to delete and press Delete on the keyboard.

89 . Adding a hyphen or underscore helps to separate words in the filename. If you can’t see all the text. Double-check the sample text and make sure it looks good. hover your mouse over the sample text and a box will appear with your filename. without putting spaces in the name.S E C T I O N 5 | B A T C H R E N A M I N G I like to add a reverse date (2015-03-26 or 20150326) and then the name of my photo shoot. so you won’t need to put it in the Custom Text box. Lightroom will quickly rename all the selected images in the background. Lightroom will add the sequence number at the end of your filename. then click Ok. If everything looks good.

I can’t even imagine my workflow without them.S E C T I O N 6 USING COLLECTIONS I love collections! It’s hard to believe there was a time when I didn’t use them at all. L E V I S I M . then I’ll show you the four ways I use collections everyday. Nowadays. Let me show you how collections work. They are simply the easiest way to stay organized and keep my best work at my fingertips.

Get it? A handy place to keep your best pictures without taking any more space on your hard drives. Collections are like a little catalog of certain pictures. A reasonable set here might be “Clients”. Vanelli already told you how to use Smart Collections (Chapter Link to Smart Collections) and a Collection Set is simply a folder to hold more than one collection—more on this idea below. Since I’ve already got some of the pictures for the collection selected. “Jules BW”. then I might call the collection. In this case. MAKE A COLLECTION FROM ANYWHERE One of my favorite features of collections is that they are available anywhere in Lightroom—all the modules include the Collections Tab on the left side. Name the new collection anything you like (we’ll talk more about this below). If I make any changes to an image in a collection. The key thing is. I do want to check the box Include selected photos. I might choose to include this in a Collection Set. You can collect a lot of pictures here from different folders. and you can make a new collection anytime. Lightroom doesn’t make a new copy of your file to store in the collection—it just references the original. those changes will show up in the main folder the Library. I’ll call it Jules since that’s the client whose photos I’m working with. then select Create Collection. but the set must already be established. usually related by topic.S E C T I O N 6 WHAT’S A COLLECTION? Just select a picture or pictures you want to include in the collection and click the + button on the right side of the Collections Tab. but I won’t choose to Make new virtual copies. An instance when I will make new virtual copies is when I’m preparing black and white versions of all the photos. 91 .

“This was right before the really good one…oh here it is…. not using Lightroom) then you have to flick through your thousands saying things like. My normal operating procedure. and believe me. and a bunch that I had used briefly to gather some pictures for an obscure project. The number one way I think everyone should use collections is as a ready portfolio. They don’t affect your Library structure in the least. New for Lightroom CC. too. After my initial sort of images. Now just click Create and you’ll have a new collection. worse still.S E C T I O N 6 | U S I N G C O L L E C T I O N S FOUR WAYS TO USE COLLECTIONS which is why it may be a good idea to make new virtual copies if I’m going to be making changes to the pictures but still want to preserve an original edit. is to have my collection called Instagram set as the target collection. Then your friends come to visit and want to see your pictures. the setting is sticky and it will be unchecked the next time you create a collection.this isn’t the one I wanted to show you. and deleting a picture from a 92 . but I can’t find the best one…and now let me show you some from the second day of our trip…” If it were me. Levi’s Dirty Secret Here it is. I’d be putting myself to sleep. make a mess. 1. If you click it. If you uncheck it. then anytime you press the B key. PORTFOLIOS Set as target collection is a handy option. More on this below. however. you make thousands of pictures. Sync with Lightroom mobile is now checked by default the first time you create a collection. and then delete them at will. the image you’re looking at will be added to this collection. But that’s what’s so cool about collections—you can use them however you like. I might use this option to add my favorites from Jules’ shoot to this collection. you go on vacation. (kinda like when you know guests are coming over and you throw everything in the closet) I deleted some scrap collections and several incomplete ones. but only a handful are really worth sharing. your spouse will thank me for this. I straighten it up and organized things more neatly for the screen shots for this book. I’m spilling my guts: my Collections Tab didn’t look so neat yesterday. You know how it is. If you’re not using collections (or.

“Let’s see your vacation pictures. Collections make me look good. no sorting. too. Since we’re on the topic of Lightroom Mobile. Environmental Portraits. it’s the second way I use Collections. just press the B key and that picture will show up in your collection. I click on it in the filmstrip and drag it to the Landscapes Collection. or for one of the locations on your trip. You know what’s even better? Click the little check box next to your landscape collection and it will sync with Lightroom Mobile. no searching. Now when someone says. so now your best landscapes can be ready to hand on your mobile device. and for the last six months it has revolutionized the way I share pictures on social media. 93 . “Let’s see some of your landscape work. Same for Portraits. Anytime I make a landscape image that I like. Now when someone says.S E C T I O N 6 | U S I N G C O L L E C T I O N S Do this instead.” I’ve got all my favorites ready to hand. I do the same thing with my portfolios. no fumbling around. etc. Create a collection for your trip. and set it as the target collection.” you’re ready to show the good stuff with zero floundering and no one snoring. Dancers. overtime you see one you or your travel partners might want to show someone. As you go through your photos.

INSTAGRAM I love sharing pictures on social media. I leave that set as my Target Collection and press B to add any pictures I want to share.S E C T I O N 6 | U S I N G C O L L E C T I O N S 2. export them and then upload them to Dropbox. 94 . Young gave us a great method for sharing the picture from Instagram directly to Twitter (http://bit. It doesn’t get much simpler. but since photos can only be shared on Instagram via a mobile device I’ve been really slow to jump onboard. then upload them to Instagram. That’s just too many steps for me. There’s a button in Instagram that shares my picture with Facebook. and Nicole S. Instagram has become a powerhouse of image sharing. then download them to their phone. Others told me they finish pictures in Lightroom. Now I’m an Instagram fiend. Here’s what I do. I just save the image to my phone and upload it to so now all my major social media posts are covered with one simple push from Instagram. I love this workflow. but I’m a stickler about sharing finished images—I really don’t share very many iPhone pictures. From Lr Mobile. I’ve got a collection named Instagram that is synced with Lightroom Mobile. and those pictures show up automatically on my phone.

and Panoramas. I just add all the pieces of these to their respective collections and when I need a pano or HDR or time-lapse. are Time Lapse. 95 .S E C T I O N 6 | U S I N G C O L L E C T I O N S 3. I love collections and I highly recommend you start using them. I certainly don’t want my client to see any unfinished images or flubs. I make a collection of the best images. Within the collection I can use flags. CLIENTS Collections are a perfect place to keep pictures as you prepare a client presentation. Now that Lightroom CC can stitch panoramas and HDR’s. I’m in heaven. and colors to rate the images. And can you believe it generates a RAW files of each??? It’s amazing. TO DO’S I also use collections to gather images that are favorites that I intend to finish… someday…when I have a little more time. This is a feature I’ve been dreaming of since my very first month using Lightroom. Collections really free me to make a mess of my portfolios and refine them to perfection without ruining my file structures. too. They’re also a great way to get my pictures online with minimal fuss. and go to the collection to share the pictures in person on a large TV or projection screen (more about this in the Chapter on Presenting to Clients). however. adding photos I know I like even though they aren’t quite finished yet. HDR. My biggest categories of unfinished images. 4. stars. I use my portfolio folders this way. too. I’ve got some ready to finish off. but that’s a discussion for another book.

V A N E L L I . Smart Collections take this powerful tool a step further by automatically placing an image in a collection based on rules that you define.S E C T I O N 7 USING SMART COLLECTIONS Collections are a way to group photos manually in one place for easy viewing or for performing a variety of tasks.

Step One: Select Label Color from the first dropdown menu. • I want a collection of my favorite bird photos taken at the Viera Wetlands based on keywords and red label.Click on the plus sign in the Collection Panel to bring up the Smart Collection dialog box. Name the Smart collection Model Portfolio and make sure Inside a Collection Set is unchecked. Let’s create a Smart Collection based on the first example. • I want a collection of my favorite image – red label– organized by year. Photos that meet the criteria are automatically added to the smart collection. • I want a portfolio of my favorite model images based on a red label – representing my favorite images– and a keyword Model. Match all of the following rules. is from the second and red from the third. 97 . you can create a smart collection of all photos that have a five-star rating and Portfolio as a keyword. CREATING SMART COLLECTIONS An easy way to create Smart Collects is by writing a statement of what you want to accomplish then apply rules to achieve the desired results.S E C T I O N 7 | U S I N G S M A R T C O L L E C T I O N S For example. • I want portfolio of Adult Female models based on the same keywords.

Images appear –based the rules we created– in the Smart Collection: Model Portfolio.S E C T I O N 7 | U S I N G S M A R T C O L L E C T I O N S Step Two: Click the plus icon to add another rule. Step Three: From the first dropdown menu select Other Metadata and choose keywords. contains from the second and type Portfolio in the third field. Click create when done. 98 .



7 |





We can use Smart Collections to help us find
missing metadata in our catalog based on a few
rules. Once we have the images in our
collection, we can select all images and apply
the missing information.
A few examples could be :
• Images that don’t have copyright information
• Collection of images based on untitled as the
• Images that don’t have keywords.
Let’s create a Smart Collection to find all images
we forgot to include our copyright information.
As with the last example, Click on the plus sign
in the Collection Panel to bring up the Smart
Collection dialog box. Name the Smart collection
Missing Copyright Information and make sure
Inside a Collection Set is unchecked. Match all of
the following rules. From the first dropdown menu
select Other Metadata and choose Copyright
Status, is from the second and unknown from the
third. Click create when done.



7 |




The Smart Collection is populated with all
images in our catalog that are not copyrighted.
Select all images using keyboard shortcut [PC]
Ctrl+a [MAC] Command+a then select your
copyright preset from the preset dropdown
menu in the Metadata panel. We could take this
a step further by adding another rule based on
the year the photo was taken and apply the
correct copyright year.
Once we add our copyright preset to all of the
images, the Smart Collect becomes empty –
there are no photos in our catalog that match
the rule.





Ever have a hard time finding your stuff? The
use of keywords can make it much easier to
locate your stuff. You learned about adding
keywords in a previous section.



8 |




The Library Filter bar at the top of the Grid view of the Library module offers three
modes for filtering photos: Text, Attribute, and Metadata. You can select and use
any one mode, or combine them to perform more complex filtering. Using
keywords, we are going to search over 200,000 images to quickly find our photos.
Step One: To perform a catalog wide search we need to start at the parent folder.

Step Two: From the Library Filter bar click Text.
Step Three: Choose Keywords from the Text dropdown menu, then Contains All
from the next dropdown menu.
Step Four: Enter keyword Astronaut in the search text field. Lightroom returns 176
images that matched our keyword search.


S E C T I O N 8 | S E A R C H I N G F O R K E Y W O R D S ADDING A SECOND KEYWORD We can narrow our search down further by adding a second keyword. we would change Contains All to Contains.”. If we want our keyword search to return any image that contains the keywords Astronaut OR Vanelli. 104 . “Search my entire Lightroom catalog for images that contain the keywords Astronaut AND Vanelli. In our example. the search results returned a selected runner at a selected event. Translating the search into english would read.

You can select and use any one mode. V A N E L L I .S E C T I O N 9 USING FILTERS The Library Filter bar at the top of the Grid view of the Library module offers three modes for filtering photos: Text. Attribute. or combine them to perform more complex filtering. and Metadata.

Face off. We will use each filter option. Attribute and Metadata. The filter displays 2216 images 106 . Be sure to include a comma after multiple words. to find the images we need. Step Three: Type Ohio in the search text field. TEXT Allows you to search any indexed metadata text field. Perform a similar search but this time filter on Captions that Contain Words and type Ohio. and EXIF and IPTC metadata. Text. keywords.000 photos to find our best game shots of the Ohio Machine – a professional Lacrosse team we photographed. then Contains from the next dropdown menu. caption. Step Two: Choose Filename from the Text dropdown menu. Step One: From the Library Filter bar click Text. The filter displays images that have the words “Ohio and Face off” in the caption field.S E C T I O N 9 | U S I N G F I L T E R S FIND PHOTOS USING THE LIBRARY FILTER BAR Example: We need to quickly search over 58. including filename.

color labels. Choose 5 stars as your rating and the color Yellow for your label. 107 . and copies. From the Library Filter bar click Attribute. Filters by flag status. Filtering images based on attributes gives us the ability to perform more complex filtering. star ratings. You created a rating system where 5 stars are your best images and the yellow label is the best of your best images.S E C T I O N 9 | U S I N G F I L T E R S ATTRIBUTE Example: Inside Lacrosse Magazine needs your best game photos.

Step Three: You can customize each box by clicking on the title and choosing a different metadata field from the dropdown menu. Inside Lacrosse Magazine only wants only images from the July game. Let’s continue with our previous example but this time. Step One: From the Library Filter click on None to clear the filter we previously applied. 108 . Step Two: Clicking Metadata will reveal four addition filter boxes. Step Four: We want to click on date and choose July.S E C T I O N 9 | U S I N G F I L T E R S METADATA Provides up to eight columns of metadata criteria that you can select to filter photos. Our filter returns 2283 images.

An outdoor sports game starting at 7pm has decent available light but by halftime. Click on five stars and yellow for color label.S E C T I O N 9 | U S I N G F I L T E R S COMBINING FILTERS EXAMPLE OF USING FILTER RESULTS 
 FOR EDITING While the Metadata filter is highlighted. Both filters are now highlighted and the attribute options also available. the stadium lights are on and my ISO has to increase causing noise in my images. Your best of your best shots from the July game appears. Filtering on ISO metadata displays images based on my input. From here. click on the Attribute filters. I can select only those images and apply noise reduction. 109 .


S E C T I O N 1 A CATALOG TO GO Having a single Lightroom catalog makes the most sense for the majority of Lightroom users. R O B S Y L V A N . catalog is just the thing for a given project. possibly temporary. but that doesn’t mean there aren’t situations where having a smaller.

Go to (Mac) Lightroom > Catalog Settings / (Win) Edit > Catalog Settings to open the Catalog Settings dialog box. when it was last backed up. along with when it was created. You can think of this tab as a sort of dashboard about your catalog. I recommend clicking that Show button so that you can confirm the location of your catalog and so that you can see the associated files that exist alongside your catalog file. It shows you where the catalog is stored and the file name of the catalog that is open. Let’s start with finding out (or confirming) where your catalog is located on your system. and the file size of the catalog file. You can’t even open the Lightroom program without opening a catalog file. By default Lightroom puts the catalog file in a folder named Lightroom in your Pictures folder. and click the General tab. but you can choose to have your catalog reside in any folder on any locally connected drive (not on network drives). to know where it is located on your system.S E C T I O N 1 | A C A T A L O G T O G O UNDERSTANDING THE ROLE OF THE CATALOG Before diving into how to create a catalog to go (and come back) I want to take a step back and talk about the catalog file. The Lightroom catalog file is the database where all of the work you do inside of Lightroom–from keywords to exposure adjustments and everything in between–is stored. when it was last optimized. and to understand how to protect and manage it over the long term. You can even click the Show button to open a new (Mac) Finder window / (Win) Windows Explorer window showing the actual folder that houses your catalog file. 112 . It is in the best interests of every Lightroom user to understand the role of the catalog.

You can call your catalog file anything you want to call it. here’s how: 113 . it is not a problem at all. so if you don’t see all of these files on your system it is OK. but with the words Smart Previews at the end. Lightroom doesn’t care. These are catalog maintenance files that automatically appear when the catalog file is open and automatically vanish when the catalog is closed. This is the file we want to protect and backup regularly. and its size will vary with how many Smart Previews you’ve created.LRDATA file. and it also has a LRDATA file extension. If you are using the Lightroom Mobile service you will also see a Mobile Downloads. All of the regular preview files are stored in another cache file that also has the same name as your catalog file. which is where the photos added from your mobile device are stored. and with a LRDATA file extension. First. which has a LRCAT file extension. By default your catalog file may have the version number of Lightroom used to create that catalog (such as Lightroom 5 Catalog). If you use Smart Previews you will also see a cache file with the same name as your catalog. such as Lightroom 4 Catalog-2.S E C T I O N 1 | A C A T A L O G T O G O Let’s discuss each of these files briefly so you’ll know what they do in the bigger picture. The most important file in that folder is the catalog. If you view this folder while Lightroom is open and running that catalog you will also see a LRCAT-JOURNAL file and a LOCK file next to your catalog. You should note that the existence of some of these files depends on if you use things like Smart Previews and Lightroom Mobile (both of which we’ll cover in the chapters that follow). but I’ll show you how to rename an existing catalog file in a moment. However. and they want to know how to rename the catalog. but have a catalog file named with an older version of Lightroom and it may also have some other numbers in it. They wonder if this is a problem. Note that on Windows the LRDATA files look like folders. RENAMING A CATALOG I often hear from people who are using the most up to date version of Lightroom. but just says Previews at the end. This is where all Smart Previews are stored. This preview cache can get quite large over time as you import more and more photos into your catalog. but there is no need to go into them and look around. if you want to rename it to something that makes more sense to you.

and Windows Explorer on PC. Guess which catalog opens automatically the next time they launch Lightroom? Yep. If you use multiple 114 .lrdata And you wanted to change it to “Lightroom Catalog. So. Step One: With Lightroom closed. Here is one of the most important things every Lightroom user can do to help them be in control of their Lightroom experience. but retain the word Previews and Smart Previews in the name along with the original file extension.S E C T I O N 1 | A C A T A L O G T O G O catalogs then choose Prompt me when starting Lightroom. but keep the file extension the same (. If you only use a single catalog file then just select that specific catalog file to be the default catalog.lrcat Lightroom Catalog Previews. Step Two: Using your file browser you can rename the catalog file. Finder on Mac. go to the folder where the catalog resides using your operating system’s file browser. Then rename the Preview cache and Smart Preview cache (if applicable) the same way.lrdata Step Three: Double-click the catalog file to open it into Lightroom. the old backup copy. and then simply closes Lightroom. This way you are choosing the specific catalog file you want to open when you launch Lightroom. and if the user doesn’t realize this it can create a huge time wasting problem.LRCAT). for example if your catalog and preview cache was named: Lightroom 4 Catalog-2. I have seen a lot of confusion stem from the Load most recent choice because it puts Lightroom in charge of determining which catalog to open.” you would end up with: Lightroom Catalog. Go to (Mac) Lightroom > Preferences > General / (Win) Edit > Preferences > General and change the Default Catalog setting to anything other than Load most recent catalog. and that may not be the one you had in mind when you launched Lightroom. and this writes the new catalog name into the Lightroom preference file. Now you can give it a quick test drive to make sure all is well. Important! Speaking of the Lightroom preference file.lrcat Lightroom 4 Catalog-2 Previews. The worst example of this is when someone curiously opens an old backup copy of a catalog to check it out.

Step One: Starting on my desktop workstation.S E C T I O N 1 | A C A T A L O G T O G O EXPORTING A CATALOG My primary workstation is a desktop computer. and I put that collection in its own (temporary) collection set. my laptop is with me all of the time. OK. and all work eventually ends up being managed by the single catalog that exists on that machine. all of the work you do inside of Lightroom) between catalogs (with the exception of Publish Service connections. Let’s walk through a scenario that I encounter all the time and explore the options you’ll want to consider. The most common example is when you are traveling and don’t want. Here’s how I transfer the work (and copies of photos) between these two computers.e. I consider this my home base. identify all of the photos I want to export as a portable catalog and transfer to my laptop. let’s talk about how to export a catalog for those times when you are on the go. Or perhaps you want to create a smaller catalog of just the work for a specific client so you can take it with you to show them the photos without having to bring all of your other work. The easiest way I have found to do this is to put all of these photos into a new collection I make just for this purpose. Lightroom has the ability to export a catalog and the ability to import the data from another Lightroom catalog. 115 . That said.. This catalog export and import functionality is how you can transfer all of the data (i. which are not included). now that understand the basics of the catalog. don’t need. or just aren’t able to bring your entire Lightroom library with you. and I keep a Lightroom catalog on my laptop for all the work I am doing while away from home base.

• Do you need to be able to work on the photos in the Develop module? • Do you need to be able to export full sized copies? Step Three: The Export as Catalog dialog will open. and to create a preview cache containing all of the existing previews for those photos. This is a more compact option for times when you want to use Develop. let’s look at how your answers to those questions influence your catalog export choices. and modify metadata as you wish. • Are you only interested in viewing and modifying metadata? Your reasons for exporting this catalog will drive your decision making process. but suffice it to say for now that the existence of a smart preview gives you the ability to work in Develop without having access to the original source photo. and captions while on a flight home) then you only need to check the box for Include available previews (and leave the others unchecked). This tells Lightroom to only create a new catalog file containing all of the data about the selected photos. but can wait to do output until you return to home base. and it will display the number of photos (and virtual copies if there are any) that will be included. 116 . titles. but you don’t need to be able to export copies then you can also check the Build / Include Smart Previews box. You won’t be able to edit those photos in Develop or export copies though. We now have some decisions to make that will determine how this dialog will be configured. right-click (ctrl-click Mac). Here are the questions you want to consider: OK. view the previews. You can open this catalog. If you want the ability to change metadata and be able to continue editing in the Develop module. I cover Smart Previews in greater detail in the next chapter. No photos are included. If you are only interested in viewing and modifying metadata (such as just wanting to be able to add keywords.S E C T I O N 1 | A C A T A L O G T O G O Step Two: With all of the photos for this project in a collection. the collection and choose Export this collection as a catalog.

Later you can choose to leave the exported catalog on the external drive and work from there. work in Develop. export copies. Step Six: Double-check your settings and click (Mac) Export Catalog / (Win) Save) to start the process. Step Five: Choose where you want this catalog (and its associated files) to be created and give it a meaningful name. which is what I usually do. This option requires the most disk space. or you can use the external drive simply as a means to transfer the catalog and photos between computers.S E C T I O N 1 | A C A T A L O G T O G O If you want to be able to do everything including export copies (even if for just sending to an external editor) then you can leave Include Smart Previews unchecked and instead check Export negative files. 117 . but it gives you the full set of options for working with Lightroom. Now that we understand each of the options let’s go back to the scenario. and use external editors. I use an external drive for this purpose. so I check the options for Export negative files and Include available previews. Step Four: In my case I want to be able to modify metadata. Negative files is Lightroom code for copies of the source photos.

The exported catalog is a fully functional catalog in its own right. which will go through next in the section on merging two catalogs. by starting in your master catalog like this you are off to a good start with any of the work you have already done. and when you return you can seamlessly import the data from the exported catalog back into your original catalog preserving all of the work you did on the road. If you are planning to run the exported catalog from the external drive you are done. 118 . and import the data into an existing catalog on your second computer (laptop in my case). and you can open it into Lightroom via the File > Open Catalog menu or just double-click the catalog file.S E C T I O N 1 | A C A T A L O G T O G O An important point to keep in mind is that the process of exporting a catalog has no effect on the originating catalog. Once the progress meter on the catalog export process is complete you can safely disconnect the external drive from the starting computer and hit the road. You can also treat this exported catalog as a temporary transfer station. You can even import new photos taken while on the road into this catalog and later transfer those new photos back to your master catalog. Meaning you are not removing those photos from your starting catalog. However.


and also choose to copy the photos (negative files) to a new location. now that I have the exported catalog along with the negative files on my external drive I can connect that drive to my laptop and use the Import from another catalog function to transfer the data from the exported catalog to the catalog on my laptop.S E C T I O N 2 MERGING TWO CATALOGS OK. R O B S Y L V A N .

In other words. and click Choose. and select the catalog file. then manually naviate to the folder containing the catalog you want to import from.S E C T I O N 2 | M E R G I N G T W O C A T A L O G S IMPORTING FROM ANOTHER CATALOG The process of importing the data from one catalog into another catalog does not change the catalog you are importing from. There’s nothing wrong with that scenario. This is the catalog that I want to import the data into. and I’ll need to clean that up later to avoid wasting disk space or getting confused over what it contains. but for now let’s look at the the steps for importing from another catalog. I open my laptop catalog. Merging is an Option Note. We’ll circle back to that later. once I import the data from the exported catalog into my laptop catalog I am still left with the exported catalog on the external drive. Step Two: Go to File > Import from another catalog. Step One: With the external drive connected to my laptop. I prefer to import the data into the catalog I already use on my laptop because that works best for my needs. 121 . as I mentioned earlier I could simply leave the exported catalog on the external drive and work directly from it while on the road.

which is reminiscent of the old Lightroom Import dialog. so I just need to configure the File Handling section for new photos and choose where I want the copies to be located. replace metadata and develop settings and negative files. or replace nothing. 122 . When the catalog you are importing from contains photos that are already in the catalog you are importing into those photos are treated as existing. You’d really only need to replace negative files if you were bringing in new versions of non-raw files that had been edited outside of Lightroom. or not import them at all. and you then have the option to replace existing metadata and develop settings. If you are intentionally importing a catalog so that you can bring in the changes you made. and you then have the option to copy them to a new location. and sections in the lower-left for controlling how new and existing photos are going to be handled.S E C T I O N 2 | M E R G I N G T W O C A T A L O G S This opens the Import from Catalog dialog. then you definitely want to choose the option to replace existing metadata and develop settings. It consists of a panel showing the Catalog Contents (the folders containing the photos). When the catalog you are importing from contains photos that are not in the catalog you are importing into those photos are treated as new. add them to the catalog without moving. which can be useful if you want to compare the original settings to the new settings you are importing from that catalog. If you do decide to replace existing metadata and develop settings you also have the option to preserve the old settings as a virtual copy. a Preview window showing thumbnails (note the Show Preview checkbox in the lower left needs to be checked to see thumbnails). Step Three: Configure the Import from Catalog dialog for your situation. In my case I am only importing all new photos and I want to copy them to my laptop’s hard drive.

If that doesn’t work for your current needs you can always use Lightroom to move the folders around after the import is done. and this folder structure will also be mirrored in the new location you choose. 123 . Once the import from catalog process is complete you’ll find the new photos have been added and their folder will be shown in the Folders panel. Any collections those photos belonged to will also exist in the Collections panel. Step Four: Click the Import button to start the process. You can now get to work on those photos right from where you left off in the original catalog.S E C T I O N 2 | M E R G I N G T W O C A T A L O G S Keep in mind that the negative files included with the exported catalog retain the same folder structure as they did in their original location. and all of the work you had done to those photos will have also been transferred.

then connect that drive to my desktop and import that catalog into my desktop catalog. and I am able to transfer any new photos back to my home base. As I work on those same photos on my laptop while traveling my intention is that all of that work.HOUSEKEEPING As I mentioned in the beginning of this section. In this way I ensure that I retain all of the work I have done in both catalogs. if you use this same workflow and treat the exported catalog as a temporary transfer mechanism then you’ll want to do some clean up once the import from catalog process is complete. then export that collection as a catalog to an external drive. 124 . When I return from my trip I simply reverse the process by creating a new collection with all of the photos I worked on plus all new photos added. so I delete them as the last step to regain that disk space. plus any new photos I import during that trip will go back to my main catalog on my desktop. Now that the data has been transferred to the catalog on my laptop and the photos have been copied to my laptop’s hard drive I no longer have any need for the exported catalog and associated negative files on the external drive.

from the volume name (Mac) / drive letter (Win) to the individual file name and every folder in between. Lightroom refers to each photo by storing the complete path to each photo. inside the catalog. R O B S Y L V A N .S E C T I O N 3 USING SMART PREVIEWS As any good Lightroom user knows. As long as Lightroom can find a given photo at that path it is considered to be online and all of Lightroom’s capabilities are able to be applied to that photo. your photos are never actually inside of Lightroom. Instead the Lightroom catalog file only ever references where your photos are actually stored on your hard drive(s).

send copies to external editors. which display the name of each volume (these would be drive letters on Windows).S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G S M A R T P R E V I E W S However. The Volume Browser goes beyond showing the name to also showing a green light that indicates the drive is online and has ample free space. and that results in severe limits to what Lightroom can do with those offline photos. The drive named External is my cleverly named external drive. 126 . Let’s take a look at the most common scenario. In my Folders panel I have four Volume Browsers. there are times when in the normal course of everyday business. but I keep my catalog on an internal drive. If I look at the Histogram panel of the Library module I see it displays Original Photo. When a drive is offline. as well as some additional information about that volume (which you can customize via right-click). we face scenarios where our photos are inaccessible to Lightroom because the drive the photos reside upon is temporarily offline. LIMITATIONS OF OFFLINE PHOTOS I use a number of external and internal drives to store my photos. With the drive and its contents accessible I can work on my photos in any of the modules. a disconnected external drive. such as a disconnected external drive or when you are away from home and unable to access a network drive. then Lightroom is unable to access the photos stored at that location. If I click on the Volume Browser to display its contents I can see that all of the folders on that drive are accessible too. which is just another indicator that these photos are online. and utilize any form of output I choose from Lightroom.

But what if there was another option? This is no cause for alarm because we know the reason why those photos are offline. In the Folders panel we see the Volume Browser for that drive has gone dark and question marks have appeared on all of the folders. Lightroom has no problem with this. My external editor options would also be disabled. Inside the Histogram panel Original Photo has been replaced by Photo is missing. due to this database and preview cache paradigm we can even go on with adding new titles. In fact. Lightroom needs to be able to access the source photo to work its Develop magic. if I tried to export a copy I would get a message saying Unable to export. and because Lightroom has stored previews of each of those photos in its cache file alongside the catalog we can still see the photos even when the originals are offline. However. and this is indeed a benefit of using Lightroom. Aside from the Photo is missing message in the Histogram panel we now have a message plastered over the photo saying The file could not be found. Similarly. and other types of 127 . Glancing at the thumbnails we see an exclamation point icon has appeared above each photo. captions.S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G S M A R T P R E V I E W S metadata. but most importantly all of the Develop module panels are greyed out and unusable. The fix in this situation is an easy one as all I need to do is reconnect my drive and everything comes back to life. All of these messages are Lightroom’s way of telling us that it cannot access those photos. if I were to switch to the Develop module my work comes to a full stop. keywords. Now if I were to (safely) disconnect that drive from my computer a few things change immediately.

128 . As I noted previously. These new Smart Previews took that offline workflow to a new level by giving us the ability to continue to adjust our offline photos in the Develop module. If you know from the moment of import that you will need to create Smart Previews you can choose that option right from the File Handling panel of the Import screen. As you can see in that menu there is also an option to Discard Smart Previews so that you can manage your disk space when you no longer need them. Lightroom has been using a cache full of photo previews alongside its catalog from the very beginning. of your original source photo (video not supported). In addition to lossy file compression the pixel dimensions of the Smart Preview is set to 2540 pixels on the longest edge. and even have a limited export option. A Smart Preview utilizes the lossy DNG file format to create a smaller version. After import you can always choose to create Smart Previews on an as needed basis via the Library > Previews > Build Smart Previews menu. As a result. if the offline photos had Smart Previews. a Smart Preview’s file size on disk is vastly smaller than an original raw photo. and stores this DNG file in a special Smart Preview cache alongside the catalog file. When Lightroom 5 was released back in 2013 it introduced us to the concept of the Smart Preview.S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G S M A R T P R E V I E W S A SMARTER OFFLINE WORKFLOW You can create Smart Previews in several ways. let’s look at what exactly Smart Previews are and and how to make them. and the choice will vary with your individual workflow needs. So. and so that lossy file compression (similar to JPG) can be used to make the file size smaller. in both pixel dimensions and file size. The lossy DNG file format is used so that the data required for editing in develop can be retained. and to an extent these previews allow for a limited metadata-only offline workflow experience.

This tells me that my source photo is currently online and that a Smart Preview also exists for it. Now I can disconnect that drive again and see what’s different and what is still the same. that is back online. with a tooltip indicating I can still perform adjustments.S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G S M A R T P R E V I E W S If I go back to my example photo from before. Switching to Develop. and build a Smart Preview via the Library menu I see that the icon in the Histogram panel has changed to Original + Smart Preview. I see that this is indeed still true. but if I look in the Histogram panel I see that the histogram itself is still live and below that it says Smart Preview. I can see that the Volume Browser has gone dark and that the folders all display question marks indicating the drive is offline. First. 129 .

though it will be limited to 2540 pixels on the long edge (or smaller if you crop). such as lens profile corrections. chromatic aberration reduction. It is important to keep in mind the reduced pixel dimensions of the Smart Preview when editing. With just this Smart Preview I was able to perform everything I’d normally do. Adjustment Brush edits to skin and teeth. cropping.S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G S M A R T P R E V I E W S From here I can proceed with my typical Develop workflow and as soon as I reconnect the drive Lightroom will seamlessly associate the edits with the original source photo again. This is a small price to pay for the freedom and flexibility the Smart Preview brings to your workflow. [I can even export a copy. and more. especially for tasks you’d typically perform at 1:1 view (such as capture sharpening in the Detail panel). 130 .

131 . and because you can export (smaller) copies from them some people even consider them to be a last-resort-when-in-a-real-pinch backup option (but don’t rely on that only!).000 photos.S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G S M A R T P R E V I E W S Using Smart Previews can give you a lot of flexibility to keep working when your drives are offline. In my case I have 21 GB of Smart Previews that represents about 20. As I mentioned earlier you can discard Smart Previews via the Library > Previews menu. and check the live tally that is displayed there. but you can also click the Smart Preview label in the Histogram panel to see a prompt that displays total disk space taken by Smart Previews and the option to discard the selected photo’s preview. which is a pretty impressive savings in disk space. If you are concerned about how much disk space your Smart Previews are taking up you can go to (Mac) Lightroom > Catalog Settings > File Handling / (Win) Edit > Catalog Settings > File Handling. This Smart Preview workflow can also be extended to the catalog export and import functionality I discussed in the previous chapters.

Step Three: In the Export as Catalog dialog.S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G S M A R T P R E V I E W S A LIGHTWEIGHT CATALOG-TO-GO One other option to keep in your back pocket when you need to be mobile is that you can export a catalog with Smart Previews instead of including your negative files. check the box to Build / Include Smart Previews (including available previews is optional. Here’s how it works: Step One: Create a collection of just the photos you want to export as a catalog (collections aren’t required for catalog export. but recommended since Lightroom will have to re-render them from the Smart Previews if they aren’t there). and still retaining all the flexibility of editing metadata. Once the catalog export is complete you can take that catalog with you and continue your work where you left off using the Smart Previews. Develop adjustments. give it a name and export. Give it a try! 132 . This can be a powerful and lightweight workflow for keeping just a catalog and Smart Previews on a drive. Step Two: Right-click the collection and choose Export this collection as a catalog. but I find it makes the process simplest). When you return you can reverse the process by using the File > Import from another catalog menu to import the data from the exported catalog back into your original catalog. It works really well when you are limited in disk space while traveling or when you just don’t need the entire source photos with you. and limited export. Lightroom does all of the heavy lifting for you to ensure your data is transferred back to the original source photos. Choose where you want the catalog to be saved.


It also suggests a style or underlying principles that guide an artist or an artistic movement.S E C T I O N 1 A GUIDE TO AESTHETIC Aesthetic is defined as being concerned with or the appreciation of beauty. JUDGEMENTS K E V I N A M E S .

composition. We rationalize that the photograph is better than is really is because of our feelings. We remember magical moments during a shoot that colors our rationality during an edit. Two areas are revealed. color and story. Everything else is hidden in black. exposure. This list reveals that I am process oriented. what it is she’s wearing or where she is.S E C T I O N 1 | A G U I D E T O A E S T H E T I C Judging photographs. Rating someone else’s work can hurt their feelings to the point of damaging a friendship. Ranking our own work involves the emotions we feel as we remember the shoot. Her face and neckline form an inverted exclamation point that guides the eye to the second reveal: her hands. particularly our own photographs is a minefield fraught with danger. 135 J U D G E M E N T S . There is no hint as to her shape. we can begin to look at our work dispassionately. lighting. My aesthetics include. What is your list? LIGHTING Does the lighting reveal the elements of the composition in a compelling or evocative way? What is revealed? What is hidden? This photograph of AJ is lit with her looking into a window. that it is natural and human. Once we understand this happens.

How does my eye flow through the image? Where is she looking? Would the piece work better if there were more space in front? Does it add mystery? Composition is the expression of the elements in a space in a pleasing way. I adjust it to define the creative objective of my photograph. aperture and ISO that reveals details in the highlights and shadows. 136 J U D G E M E N T S . I always give myself permission to shoot a bit loose to allow for cropping. exposure is the combination of shutter speed. The next photograph of AJ is made with the exposure adjusted using the ColorChecker. A careful look shows the shape of her back as well. I prefer to lock the camera on a tripod then adjust the elements in the frame. Once I have the base exposure. In my aesthetic.Composition For me composition starts with the light. her eyes glow and there is detail in the robe. Notice that her face is brighter.S E C T I O N 1 | A G U I D E T O A E S T H E T I C EXPOSURE The amount of light that produces an image on the sensor is one definition of exposure. The proper exposures shows the outline of her hair more clearly and her left shoulder. I use an X-Rite ColorChecker chart to set both neutral color and for setting a base exposure. Directing the eye from AJ’s face to her hands is a compositional act.

S E C T I O N 1 | A G U I D E T O A E S T H E T I C COLOR Color evokes emotion. Blue can suggest loyalty. It can be sad or authentic. Brown is the earth color. What does color say in your photographs? 137 J U D G E M E N T S . Clerics favor black to show their surrender to a higher power. It denotes wealth and polish. White is purity. It is innocent. Blues are peaceful. Purple is the color of kings and queens. It is clean. Then there’s black and white. Reds are powerfully intense. It attracts the viewer’s attention. It is luxurious. Yellow is a happy color that attracts attention. Black is power. It is heat. Green talks to us of nature. They can be cold. Black can be evil. It shows optimism. Dark green can be masculine. It can show authority. It is love. It is relaxing. It can be submissive. It can be wistful. They might be depressing. Emotional connection with the view supports what the photograph is saying.

S E C T I O N 1 | A G U I D E T O A E S T H E T I C STORY Photographers love to talk about their images. Here’s the question I keep in mind when I’m selecting photographs from a take: What will my photograph say when I am not there to speak for it? Look at this one. It’s fun and when viewers agree it feels really great. 138 J U D G E M E N T S . What story does it evoke for you? Story is a key aesthetic judgment.

Soft. She is confident. Her lingerie. She knows preparation is everything. Do I expect them to know the story I wrote? Not at all. warm light from a window with sheer curtains illuminates the woman regarding her self in a full-length mirror. The important rendezvous later that evening runs through her mind. the evening will be hers. on the other hand. She knows. My story is the foundation for the elements presented. To answer your question… this is the only time I’ve shared a photo’s backstory. when it’s over. reminds her of her bloodline and the cultured competence it represents. Every element in the photograph supports my story. She knows the outfit she has picked is pedestrian. Do I know what other viewer’s story will be? No. It is a considered choice designed to reveal little to those she will meet. LIGHTING 139 .S E C T I O N 1 | A G U I D E T O A E S T H E T I C J U D G E M E N T S THE STORY I WROTE It’s just before dusk.


. one of them several times each week.S E C T I O N 2 L E V I S I M SWITCHING VIEWS By now you’ve probably figured out that you can see an individual picture or you can see lots of pictures in a grid. But did you know you’ve got five different views available in the Library Module? I use two of them daily. and a new one that may prove valuable as a huge time saver. 
 Let me show you how to get to each view and a few key functions available in each view. one other occasionally.

Next thing for using the Loupe is that pressing the Z key will zoom in on your picture. bottom. and matches the pixels of your monitor to the pixels of the picture. and that will be the default zoom amount when you zoom out using the Z key or the Space Bar. This is a fast way to browse through your images and you can select multiple pictures here and apply a function to them all at once. and Space Bar does the same thing. if you use a medium format camera with 80 megapixels. How much does it zoom? Well. The first two are Fit and Fill. so don’t expect the picture to appear sharp. There are four options. say 11:1. then you’ll be enlarging the pixels of the picture to your view. I would often set the second option to 1:2 so that I could see the image closer. when I used to use the 36 megapixel D800. Click on the drop down menu next to the second ratio and you’ll see options from 1:16 to 11:1. however. but also have some sense of what part of the picture I was viewing. If you’re in the Grid view. leaving some cutoff on the left and right. and you choose two to toggle between. you’re setting it to zoom in to less than 100%. Fill will zoom in until the picture fills the space vertically. This option determines how zoomed in the picture will be when you press Z or Space Bar. If there’s a 1 on the left side. 142 . The first thing to know about the Loupe is that you can get here from anywhere in Lightroom by pressing the E key. For instance. press it again to zoom out. you’ll be zooming in much more than 100%. 1:1 is 100%. THE LOUPE The first view I use all the time is the Loupe view. then zooming in to 1:1 will appear to zoom in a lot more than when you use camera with fewer megapixels. which is the single image view. left and right. You’ll see your image show up nice and big. The way this works is you choose one of these options. Click in the center of the picture and drag it around to see the parts missing. If you zoom past 100%.S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S THE GRID NAVIGATOR TAB Press the G key from anywhere in Lightroom and you’ll find yourself in the Grid view with all the pictures from the filmstrip below laid out in a grid. filling the window between the tool panes. Fit sizes your picture so the entire image is visible between all the tool bars on the top. that depends on the options you’ve chosen in the Navigator tab. The other zoom option is 1:1 or 1:Whatever. This is where the other option comes in. If the number on the left is greater than 1. clicking one of these options or the Space Bar will bring you into the Loupe view . I leave mine clicked on Fit and 1:1.

S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S 143 .

or on the gray border around it. 144 . everything in-between the two will be selected. You can select a bunch of pictures in a row by pressing and holding the Shift key and clicking on one picture and then another. I use keyboard shortcuts for the rest. turn on the ones you want to use. Right next to the Thumbnail slider is a drop down menu that reveals and hides several options. you can use the toolbar to do some pretty cool stuff. (Selected pictures appear with a lighter gray border) Now that you’ve got some pictures selected. but you can certainly use the buttons onscreen if you like). Before you can do anything to pictures in the Grid view. and select all by pressing Cmd+A (Ctrl+A). you’ve got to select some pictures. Select one by clicking on the picture.S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S MAKING SELECTIONS You can select multiple individual pictures by pressing and holding Cmd (Ctrl) and clicking on each picture you want to select. (I keep the Painter and the Sorting and Thumbnail Size options handy.

S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S THUMBNAILS . press the T key to reveal the toolbar. and you can see all the options in the View Menu at the top of the screen: View > Grid View Style 145 . I typically have mine set to the full info view. You can also alter what details you see on the thumbnails. Change the size of the Thumbnails in the grid using the slider in the bottom right corner of the window—if you don’t see the Thumbnails slider. Press the J key to change the view from very simple to including badge details to including more info like the file name and pixel dimensions.

I most often use it for applying Keywords and for adding images to the Target Collection. click the drop down menu next to the word Sort and choose Capture Time. Sometimes I use the other options. as well. To make sure you’re seeing pictures in chronological order. Check out the drop down menu next to the word Paint. Just click on the spray paint can icon. it’s default is to show the pictures as they were added. I just enter the words in the space and then click on the pictures that match those words. when Lightroom imports my pictures. For Keywords. then choose what you want to do form the Paint: dropdown menu. instead of as they were shot.S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S PAINTER SORTING The Painter is amazingly handy. Whichever option you choose will give you different options to the right. For some reason. which can be quite different. The tool I used most in the Grid view is Sort. It takes whatever settings you choose and applies them to an image in the Grid. 146 .

and I like to hide the side panels to see each picture a little larger—just click the < arrow on each side of the screen. I use this to help me make a choice between several similar pictures—seeing them side by side and removing other clutter is a powerful way to choose the best image. I need some pictures of the instructor looking dynamic and friendly.S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S SURVEY VIEW The Survey view allows you to see multiple pictures all at once that are not necessarily grouped together in the Grid view. I’ve selected these 7 pictures. You can get into Survey mode from anywhere in Lightroom by pressing the N key. Select multiple pictures form the filmstrip or grid and enter Survey view. In this case. so I can click the little X in the corner of the picture to remove them from my selection. or by clicking on the icon in the Loupe or Grid views. which are not in a row in the filmstrip. 147 . and the others fill in the space. The one with a white outline is the picture I’ve got actively selected. I use this same method with my clients in sales sessions (See the chapter on Review Session for a client) . I can quickly see that the first two I’ve selected aren’t as good as the others—she’s not smiling as much in those. and now I can see them side by side to decide which best serve the purpose I need them for.

or press E for the Loupe.S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S Now I’ve got three good pictures I can use. I often use Survey for narrowing down similar expressions in portraits. you can alter the flag or star rating of a picture in Survey view by clicking the flags and stars underneath the pictures. I can also reorder them by clicking on one and dragging it in between two others. too. Press one of the icons at bottom right to switch views. Lastly. or even D to head into the Develop Module from here. 148 .

there’s the Zoom slider on the left side. The idea is that the best pictures stays on the left. called the Select. called the Candidate. Like Survey. You start by selecting a bunch of pictures. Sync makes them both pop to the same place if you’ve unlocked them. The one on the left is the one you compare all the others to. If you want to zoom in and compare them close up. When the one on the right is better than the one on the left. and the less good one gets cycled out. and whichever one you click on will be in the left spot. 149 . you use the icons on the bottom right of the screen to swap the places.S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S COMPARE VIEW Compare view is pretty cool and has excellent functions—I just wish I needed it more (C is the shortcut key). or you can unlock it and zoom them individually. it’s useful for narrowing down your selections. the lock makes them zoom to the same magnification and position. and you use the arrow keys to cycle through each picture in your selection.

you can alter the ratings or drop a picture from your selection with the icons under each picture. Enter the People view using the icon at the bottom of the screen. That’s pretty cool. the more I think about it. 150 . just click on the ? under each stack and enter the name of the person shown. It’s a really cool tool. Try it out and see if it works better for you. Like Survey. Lightroom begins automatically recognizing faces and stacking pictures together with the same faces. now each stack moves in to the category at the top of Named People. and I’m still finding the right way to use it in my workflow. which is pretty neat. so over time. I could search the whole catalogue for people based on their names and Lightroom finds them for me. think in O as the shape of someone’s face). the more I see some uses for it. Lightroom now uses that name as a keyword. or by pressing the O key (P is already taken for flagging a picture as a ‘pick. but Survey seems to fit my use a little better. like Compare view. but. it may not fit my workflow. it gathers pictures together based on the faces it can recognize in the image.S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S PEOPLE VIEW This option is new to Lightroom CC. However. the same picture will be in multiple stacks if it has multiple people in it. double click on a stack to see all the pictures in it. Basically. Now.

and on any number of cameras. For weddings. I’m thinking it’ll be handy because it’ll gather all the pictures of the bride together. Again. I’m thinking of three instances when it could be really useful: weddings. they could have been made at any time. or the grandma. I often photograph three or four generations together. very cool! The thing about pictures of my daughter is that my Drobo is littered with them everywhere. It’s not perfect and sometimes still includes a boulder or a tree as a face. and you just click the check mark or the x. and when I show the bride pictures she could ask me to see all the pictures with her and the groom and the grandma. Similarly with family pictures. If I use the People view to name everyone right after the shoot. I’m refining my workflow to try to include this tool. I’m quite good with names and will know everyone’s names the by the end of a shoot. so I’m not usually trying to search for anyone by name…but maybe I will start doing it. and I keep them organized by name in the folder tree. I pretty much know who my clients are. The thing is. Like I say. but it’s pretty incredible that this caliber of tool is now in Lightroom. then it’ll make me look like a more attentive and caring photographer because I can review everyone’s names before the sales session. but if you ask me three months later (which is often how long it takes a big family to get their orders together) I may have forgotten a few names. I may walk in the door after a shoot and see her doing something photographable and add a frame or two of her to the the same memory card from the shoot. big family groups.S E C T I O N 2 | S W I T C H I N G V I E W S Lightroom even gathers the people it thinks it knows and puts a ? after their names to ask it’s correct. and finding my own kid’s pictures. etc. and I could do that using the keywords instead of searching around in the grid view. 151 . People view can help me gather these pictures from all over my hard drives and have them handy when it’s time to make an album.

Flag the image and move on to the next. One option is to use the Flagging system to temporarily select your favorite images. The trick is NOT to make this a time consuming task. If you have to ask. It’s important not to get hung up on an image. V A N E L L I . we need to quickly review each image and select our favorites. “should I flag this?” you took too long.S E C T I O N 3 USING FLAGS Once we imported our photos to our catalog.

take your time and narrow down your selects again. we will use images from a Senior Portrait shoot. The final selects are images you plan to process so create a second collection called “Images to Process” and drag the images into this collection. 153 . FIRST ROUND SELECTS For our example. The images are now in both collections. Use the thumbnail slider (found at the bottom right of the thumbnails) to increase or decrease the size of the thumbnails for easy viewing. create a third collection called “Final” and drag the edited image into this collect. remove the image from the “Images to Process” collection.S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G F L A G S This doesn’t mean you are going to process every selected image or delete the non selected images. It simply allows you to quickly scan your photos and select as many as you want. make a collection called “Selects” and drag the images into this collection. Highlight the first image by clicking on it. This is a great opportunity to gather input from your client. Once they are selected. Start by viewing your images in the Library’s Grid mode. When you find an image you like. After the collection is created. Have them help you with this second stage. To unflag an image click the flag icon again or press the tilde key (~) found on the top left of the keyboard below the ESC key. click the flag icon found at the top left of the thumbnail image or press P on the keyboard. Select the Library module. This time. Use the left or right arrow keys on your keyboard to maneuver between images. The goal is to not have images in the “Images to Process” collection. then choose Gridview (G) found at the bottom left of the thumbnails. Once you process your image.

Leave the “Inside a Collection Set” checkbox blank and click Create.S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G F L A G S CREATING COLLECTIONS Name this set “Senior Portraits”. click the + icon and select “Create a Collection Set”. 154 . Working in the Collections Panel.

click edit and from the dropdown menu choose “Select None”. Click Create. simply click and drag it to your client’s collection set. Right click on the new Senior Portraits collection set and create a new Collection Set with your client’s name. We are going to filter our selects and place them in the Select’s collection. Repeat this for “Images to Process” and “Final”. check “Inside a Collection Set” and choose “Senior Portraits”. Click Edit and from the dropdown menu choose “Select All”. From here. For location. Click the arrow icon to see the tree structure you just created. Right click on your client’s name and create a “Collection” (not collection sets) and name the new collection the date of the shoot plus “Select”. Select the Attribute tab and filter based on Flag. 155 . To unselect all images. While the images are still selected. Selects. Senior Portraits and your client’s name. You now have two collection sets. For location. Images to Process and Final. check “Inside a Collection Set” and choose “your client’s name”. unflag the images by selecting the Flag icon. Click and drag the selected images to the client’s select collection. we will create 3 collections inside your client’s set. Ensure each is saved inside the client’s name collection set under location. Click Create. For example: 20131130 Select.S E C T I O N 3 | U S I N G F L A G S If by chance one of the collections isn’t inside your collection set. Click on your client’s name in the Folder’s panel.

These are the best of your best images. we can clear our Flags by selecting all images — Click Edit and from the dropdown menu choose “Select All” — unflag the images by selecting the Flag icon. Flag these images and drag them to the client’s “Images to Process” collection. The images are now in two collections. . narrow down your choices to images you want to process. Use the same procedure we did in “First Round Selects” to Flag images you want to process. Selects and Images to Process. At this point. This is a good time to have the client choose the images with you.SECOND ROUND SELECTS Working in the client’s Selects collections.


but aren’t as useful as you continue to cull down your selection. With the ability to rate using up to five stars. N I C K M I N O R E . In my opinion.S E C T I O N 4 ADDING STARS Flags. stars offer the most flexibility to rate your images from the first selection to the final version. stars. we can implement a systematic approach as we narrow our selection from the first star to the fifth star. and labels are three different ways to select and refine images for you final edit. Flags can be a great solution if you’re looking to quickly mark your favorite images.

To sort by one-star photos.As I cull through my images and select our favorites on the first pass. 159 . When assigning more stars. assuming you made three rounds of selects. you’re never at risk for deleting images you might need at a later time. we can increase the rating with the close bracket key ] or decrease the rating with the open bracket key [. then sort by one star. I’ll rate with one star. use a three-star ranking (press 3 on the keyboard). navigate down to Set Rating. This way. If you’ve used two rounds of selects. it might be necessary to narrow the selection down just a bit more. The quickest way to assign one star is by pressing the number 1 on the keyboard. Lightroom will show images greater than or equal to one star. On the right side of the filmstrip. Rather than reject the images I don’t like. click on the first star. then sort by two stars. and as we get to the third pass. choose the Filter dropdown and select Rated. You can also choose the Photo menu. cull the second pass using a two-star rating (press 2 on the keyboard). This is where both two and three star rankings come in. Prepping for edit. I just won’t give them a one star rating. After the first pass. sort the images to just show images greater than or equal to three stars. By default. If you only made one round. and select the star you’d like to assign. Once sorted.

we still have two stars to use to rate our edited images.S E C T I O N 4 | A D D I N G S T A R S STAR LOGIC One Star . but not quite amazing five-star images. 0 .First Selections Two Stars .3 Stars 4 . you’ll have only the very best images bubble up to the top for you to add to your portfolio.2 Stars 3 .Remove all Stars 160 . Instantly.Images to Edit Four Stars .5 Stars Added bonus: Whenever you need to update your portfolio. Then your five-star images are the final portfolio-quality.Currently editing or edited but not worthy of being 5 stars Five Stars . select All Photographs from the Catalog menu on the left and then sort by five stars. Four star images should be images you’ve edited and are happy with. 1 . the very best images from that shoot.Second Pass Three Stars .1 Star 2 .Final images KEYBOARD SHORTCUTS If you’ve kept up with the math.4 Stars Easy Portfolio Updates 5 .

The idea is to rate any image that looks decent from the shoot and is in focus or workable. >t Lights Dim or Lights Out. Typically. and a third time to return to normal. twice to dim to black. You can also change the Lights Out mode from the menu bar. > Lights Out. As you cull through the images. the first pass of your images shouldn’t take very long. Enabling Auto Advance is as simple as choosing the Photo menu and selecting Auto Advance. press the number 1 if you like the photo and press the number 0 if you don’t. To speed up the rating process. Choose Window. we can enable Auto Advance to advance the preview image after we give it a star. Simply press L on the keyboard once to dim to 80% darkness.S E C T I O N 4 | A D D I N G S T A R S QUICKLY RATE YOUR IMAGES WITH 
 AUTO ADVANCE Take this one step further and dim the lights to better focus on each image. 161 .

if not it gets nothing. I know a lot of people say you should just use flags—if it’s good. but I use stars instead of flags and I’ll show you why. I use stars.S E C T I O N 5 PICKING FLAGS OR STARS When I’m culling a shoot and finding the best pictures. That’s a simple system…and it’s the same one I use. L E V I S I M . it gets flag.

2 STARS Now I’ll activate the filter to show only the 1 star pictures and go through the pictures again quickly and possibly add a second star. Now that all the decent pictures have 1 star and a few favorites have 2 stars. If the picture is one you might like to look at again or potentially share. too. After I deliver finished pictures to my clients. I could come back to this folder at any future date and delete everything without any stars and be comfortable knowing that I’m not throwing away anything valuable. or maybe just remove the first star. SECOND PASS. We don’t need to label garbage or rate every picture. Don’t waste yourself deciding how not terrible each picture is with it’s own rating. 2. or 5 stars. right hand on the arrow keys. Don’t do that. If I find a picture that is possibly the best picture I’ve ever made in my entire life. left hand on the 1 key. Simply go through the pictures quickly.S E C T I O N 5 | P I C K I N G F L A G S HOW NOT TO USE STARS You’ve can label a picture as 1. 3. I can safely delete the leftovers. I sometimes imagine my posterity cursing my name while trying to sort through thousands of terabytes of pictures that will be sitting around on drives by the time I die. it gets 1 star. 4. I’ll step it up to 5 stars so that it could be included in a Smart Collection if I ever wanted to find all my best pictures immediately. and I think you should do this. “Why didn’t the old man ever delete anything?!” 163 O R S T A R S . and there’s a strong temptation to go through and label each picture with a rating so that 1 star is the worst picture and 5 stars is the best.

but there would be no flags included. This is why I switched to using stars and have given up on flags. 164 O R S T A R S . and the star will show up in Lightroom.S E C T I O N 5 | P I C K I N G F L A G S SO. and a laptop I was selling from. Stars will show up in any app the picture may be viewed with in the future. too. I had a desktop computer I was doing my photofinishing on. My system is really similar to using flags…I just use stars instead because they travel with the picture. I learned this when I was trying to use two different catalogs to look at the same pictures. I can add a star to a picture in the camera. I’d import the finished pictures onto the laptop. In fact. Maybe this will work for you. Flags stay in the catalog. including my online galleries. and don’t follow the picture file. Stars are written in the metadata of the picture itself. IF YOU USE IT LIKE FLAGS. WHY NOT USE FLAGS? The thing about flags is that they are tied to the Lightroom catalog.

and this particular ailment keeps you from not making pictures.S E C T I O N 6 CLIENT REVIEW SESSION If you’re like me. I reckon my family would be living on the streets because I can’t imagine how’d I’d have made a living the last few years. then you’ve got a disease. Without these tools. L E V I S I M . because they’ve built in a powerful way to present and sell pictures to clients. For me the sickness is so strong that I had to quit my job because I was so distracted thinking about how I’d photograph my co-workers that I couldn’t focus on what they were saying in meetings. The geniuses behind Lightroom must have relatives like us.

use a huge TV or project your pictures onto a wall/screen. you can get a decently large TV for about $500. I’ve tried a 47” inch. People deserve to have large artwork adorning their walls. if you show big pictures then you can sell big pictures. 166 . I’ve messed up quite a few times while refining my sales presentation. For best results. and I’m pretty sure you could make that up with in a couple of sales sessions (this isn’t a sales training course.S E C T I O N 6 | C L I E N T R E V I E W S E S S I O N BIGGER TRULY IS BETTER… Lightroom makes it simple to share pictures with your clients face to face on a nice big secondary display (see the next section). However. Nonetheless. you should learn how to help people make purchases from a sales professional— that’s an even better investment than a large TV). Helping people realize that 8x10 is quite small is your job. that price is still pretty high. People can easily order an 8x10 because it’s a size that has been sold for decades and frames abound. if you shop the sales. but it’s not as powerful as a little larger. The good news is these TV’s have come way down in price. Let me share some tips for success I’ve learned along the way that may help beginners to advanced users. the bad news. the larger you show the pictures the more impact they will have. The fact is. I’ve had good results with 52” TV’s or larger. Whether you selling portraits to a family or fine art to designer.

If you leave the screen on the default settings. it really looks much better on my screen. these are usually a little more subdued and softer and give a pretty good result as a preset. you’ll constantly be saying to your client.” I’d recommend using a monitor calibration tool to calibrate both your monitor and the second display. 167 S E S S I O N . then I’ve had good luck setting the TV to the Cinema or Movie setting. or if you’re not able to calibrate the screen (I often show at someone else’s home and at the mercy of their own TV). If you can’t use a calibration tool. then it’s not a good tool. “I’m sorry.S E C T I O N 6 | C L I E N T R E V I E W …BUT ONLY IF IT LOOKS GREAT If you get a big screen but the color is bad. and saturated. sharp. The settings as set at the factory are made to catch people’s eye in the store and they are too contrasty. I’ve used tools from Spyder and X-Rite and have been very satisfied.

then you’re shooting hundreds of pictures in a session. This sounds like common sense. Don’t put your clients through this kind of torture.CULL YOUR PHOTOGRAPHS—30 TOPS This is what I call editing. these are the ones they should buy. If your’e like me. but I’m telling you because at my first review session on a big screen with a client I hadn’t already culled anything (what was I thinking?!).S E C T I O N 6 | C L I E N T R E V I E W 6 TIPS ON THE MECHANICS I’m still assuming you’ve read the previous chapter on how to use the Second display. but three hours later my client and I had finally chose the pictures she wanted to print (and she’s still a recurring client for me today. if it’s not a favorite of yours. I recommend narrowing a family shoot down to 30 pictures. SHOW FINISHED PICTURES Now that you’ve got it narrowed down to a manageable number of pictures. Editing a paper or a book is removing everything that doesn’t need to be there. I’ve photographed hundreds of families and fouled up plenty of sessions by showing too many pictures. so please read that before you ask me how some of these things work. you need to be sure to show these as their best. not how or why. but I may leave heavy edits for after the client has chosen their favs. I do color and exposure adjustments similarly to all in a shoot so they look like a cohesive body of work. maybe 60 if it’s a big family. I don’t know how she managed to suffer through it. but trust me on this: edit it down to 30. 1. 2. I’m going to tell you what to do here. though I’ll finish several of my own favorites to completion (and the thing is. people!) 168 S E S S I O N . Personally. why would you even show it? 30 pictures. I touch up blemishes where it’s necessary for closeups. and you’ve got to do that before your client comes. bless her heart).

this is where they will see the pictures. you may want to rename the pictures in the collection so that they are in a sequential order and the clients won’t ask to see the others that aren’t listed (select them all then press F2 to rename). 169 S E S S I O N . there won’t be any others showing the filmstrip that distract them. This can be made right in the Slideshow Module. Be ready with a pad of paper to take notes—there are lots of apps and things. Use paper and a pen that you know works well and you’ll have a better experience.S E C T I O N 6 | C L I E N T R E V I E W 3. you’re going to go through the pictures one by one. you need to tell your client what the process for this—then you can even offer the slideshow as a product). but first enjoy the show and remember how fun it was when we made the pictures. SHARE THE PLAN AND HAVE PAPER Before you start showing any pictures. 4.SongFreedom. CREATE A COLLECTION Create a new collection for these favorite photos. but there’s nothing that separates you from a client faster than using a device to take a note—it’s bad enough we have to use a computer to do the presentation. In fact. One of the most powerful ways is to start with a slideshow of the pictures set to excellent music (I highly recommend a $10 song from www. When they come over. or with other tools like ProShowWeb. with all the tool bars and menu bars hidden and the background set to dark gray or black. I like to give an overview and tell them we’ll go through them one by in a minute. I use Survey view (Shift +N) on the Second Monitor to do this. I usually name it for the client. Next.

then use the X in the corner of the image to remove it from the screen. RATE AND MOVE ON S E S S I O N Often I’m trying to help my client decide between two good choices. MAKE VIRTUAL COPIES AND COLOR CODE Don’t forget that you can make a Virtual Copy of a photograph and finish it differently or crop it differently. so it may not work for a large family. and yellow (7) to Susan’s family. Of course. Now we’re ready to start thinking about which pictures will hang where and what sizes—use that pen and paper for notes. Each of these is a virtual copy cropped differently. I use them two different ways. These are just two ways to use the ratings. One other tool I like to use is the color labels. you’re ready to go through the pictures one by one. it only goes up to blue (9). The other way I’ve had success using color labels is to use the color as a print size. these are just another way to filter your pictures. Like stars and flags. I can even reorder them in the Survey screen and show better options side by side. 6. I may even need to do one more round to get down to the three star pictures. As we go through if they like the picture at all. Since I’m in Survey view on the second screen. If I’ve made pictures for an extended family. It’s a powerful way to see that one picture is markedly better than the other. Now that you’ve shared the slideshow. and remember all the tools at your finger tips. plus 8x10’s for grandparents and maybe a 5x7 for the desk at work. I often end up ordering a large print of a group picture. I also use the Survey display to show three pictures that go well together—a triptych of 3 5x7 prints is a great way to display multiple pictures. I’m still not ready to talk about products specifically—this is a culling stage. then I might assign the red label (press the 6 key) to grandma and grandpa. At this stage. Then we’ll go through again and raise the favorites to two stars. Just press Cmd+’ to make a virtual copy. I can highlight more than one image in my thumbnails and those will show up side by side on the screen. yellow for 5x7. green for 8x10. 170 . Red for 4x6. Now set the filter to show only those pictures with at least one star. depending on my needs. Find a system that works for you. I give it one star and move on. and blue for enlargements.S E C T I O N 6 | C L I E N T R E V I E W 5. and it helps my client to be able to choose similar pictures that they still want to have. while Joe’s family gets all the greens (8). but there are lots of way to use them. The first way might be to identify to whom a print will be delivered.

Lightroom is just such a tool. Let me show why I love it and how to use it. L E V I S I M .S E C T I O N 7 USING A SECOND SCREEN What does it mean for me to have professional software? It means it does things that make my work as a professional easier. but I think the same tools should be intuitive enough that any passionate people can take advantage without having a degree in the software specifically. and one of my favorite features is the Secondary Display.

I like this one because my black and white images stand clear of the background. Shift+C for Compare. I used to prefer Dark Gray with Pinstripes. Just right click on the background next to your picture. if you’re only using one monitor. and Shift+N takes you to the Survey view.S E C T I O N 7 | U S I N G A S E C O N D YOU DON’T NEED A SECOND MONITOR 
 TO USE IT S C R E E N CUSTOMIZE THE SECONDARY DISPLAY The functions in the Secondary Display are the same as they are for the main Library view (see the chapter on Switching Views)—including all the filter options in Grid view and all the compare and survey functions. I love that Adobe has made this tool work for you even when you don’t have a second monitor attached to your computer. but I also like to use the Grid view in the second screen window. Survey is the one I use the most. you can even use it with Apple TV as a second monitor and show the Secondary Display that way. and you’ll see several options. if you’re an Apple user. Currently. 172 . I can use it on my laptop as a helpful tool. and I don’t have a second monitor on my desk at all (that’s another story about my daughter and a toy and an insurance claim…). If you do have a second monitor attached. I only own a laptop computer. but you can access it by pressing Shift and any of the shortcut keys to change views—Shift+E for Loupe. or drag it over to a TV I plug into. I always activate the Secondary Display by pressing Shift+N. I like to customize the Secondary Display so that my photographs look their best. you’ll get a new window on top of your Lightroom window which you can move or resize as usual. so for Lightroom CC the engineers removed the option. Shift+G for Grid. or. There first thing I set is the background color. But since the Secondary Display works as a window. but added the Darker Gray. just like for your main screen. then the window will appear on that screen. but I recently learned that the pinstripes option was actually a performance hog.

• Normal shows the same picture you’ve selected on your main screen and changes as you change that selection—just like normal. Don’t worry.S E C T I O N 7 | U S I N G A S E C O N D You can also make your image larger in the window by clicking on the arrows at the top and bottom of the window to hide the tool bars. which is pretty cool and very useful for simply comparing the picture on the main screen to another in the filmstrip. perhaps. • Live is interesting because it shows a preview of the picture you mouse is on in the main screen—as you move through the thumbnails it changes the picture and effectively gives you a large preview. and Locked. • Locked locks the view on the Second Display to the picture it was on when you locked it. they’ll show up if you hover your mouse at the top of bottom of the screen. Live. or if I’m doing something to a picture before sharing it on the second screen with another viewer. One thing useful setting available in the Loupe view is the option for Normal. showing only the picture I locked it on. That’s also very cool. this option keeps my working view hidden. 173 S C R E E N . I like this option for keeping a favorite picture on that screen while doing something else on my main screen—if someone happens by my office.

and the whole chapter on review sessions for clients. Do this even if you don’t have a second monitor. This is so great for speeding things along—no more popping out to the grid view.S E C T I O N 7 | U S I N G A S E C O N D USING THE SECOND DISPLAY LIKE A BOSS S C R E E N I only wish I could get the Presets tab to show up on the right side. and keep your processing going in the main window. and keep your main screen set in the Develop Module. and activate the filter features in the Second Display by pressing Shift+\ . Resize the window to fit over the lefthand pallet by dragging on the corners of the window (it won’t squeeze down as narrow as the lefthand tool pallet. As it. then this would be perfect. just keep in on the side of your main screen. Use this window as your picture browser. I’ve got a pretty powerful way to use the Second Display which will help speed up your workflow. 174 . using filters and ratings. You can browse pictures quickly in the little window. Besides the above tips. and I think you’ll find that navigating this way and keeping your Develop window open is a powerful way to work. Give it shot. You can hide the thumbnails at the bottom of the Develop window with the arrow. I just toggle the Second Display on and off by pressing Shift+G as needed. but it leaves enough room). Press Shift+G to get the Grid view showing on the Second Display window.


Ask yourself. V A N E L L I . You get my point. simple and expandable. How much would I lose if I lost everything on my hard drive. and last. someone who sold a print or charged for service. this question gets easier. easy configurable software to manage it all. what are my photos worth? If you’re a professional photographer. hardware that is safe.S E C T I O N 1 3-2-1 BACKUP It’s hard to put a price tag on years of memories you captured in photos or the hours of video you took that still brings a smile to your face. we need a bulletproof backup plan.

So. I suggest using two external storage systems. [insert smiley face]. the “Store on two different media” concept isn’t about choosing two different TYPES of media. not up for discussion. Let me start by saying DVD’s are gone (they also start to disintegrate after a few years). to retrieve their precious files? In order for the 3-2-1 Backup to be foolproof.2 .1 B A C K U P 3-2-1 BACKUP CONCEPT STORE ON TWO DIFFERENT MEDIA The first step is to decide what type of media you plan on using for your backup. This way. why are so many frustrated people (I was one of them) calling recovery companies to ask them. •Create three copies of your files •Store on two different media •Keep one backup copy offsite.S E C T I O N 1 | 3 . But seriously. no begging them. you can recover using the other device. Sorry. It means to make two identical copies of your files stored on two separate devices. 177 . you actually have to follow the simple steps correctly to build a “set it and forget it” backup. if you have a hardware failure. if it’s foolproof. The 3-2-1 Backup concept has been around for years and is foolproof (a big advocate worth checking out is Peter Krogh).

we swap and use the mirrored drive until we rebuild a new one. drive B is updated. That worked great until I manually saved files to the mirror drive. I recommend SyncBack from 2BrightSparks for PC and CarbonCopyCloner for Mac.2 . refers to the copying and archiving of computer data so it may be used to restore the original after a data loss event. We want our second drive to be the same bit for bit. 178 . No downtime. PERFECT for us.1 B A C K U P DON’T MISUSE THE WORD “BACKUP” WHICH ONE DO I USE AND WHEN? The process of backing up. I chose to use file syncing as my backup format. It can also be used for a dedicated system that is only used for backing up your system but remember the last part of our foolproof 3-2-1 plan? Have a stored copy offsite. Have I painted a frustration scenario? Backup: create a compressed copy of every file. Purchase an OFFSITE BACKUP PLAN with online access.S E C T I O N 1 | 3 . I use CrashPlan from Code42 because it’s perfect for my Drobo 5N. FULL BACKUP compressed my files and the only way I could see them was with the software that was provided.. This is a perfect format for offsite backup. If the main drive fails. Copying: selecting all files from one hard drive and copying them to the other. This is the reason I recommended using two external storage systems earlier. multiple changes to that file. This is great if you make changes on both drives. That’s what I thought until I deleted a file on my main hard drive and couldn’t find it on my “BACKUP” drive. Use this when you are giving away copies. My final step was to mirror the drive. deleted files. every file you ever created. If a file or change is detected on drive A. The software deleted them on the next sync. but there are plenty of other offsite backup companies. To save space. If you change something on drive A. There are plenty of free utilities that can do this. I looked at my new backup drive and couldn’t read it. so I fix that by selecting FULL BACKUP. If a file or change is detected on drive B. Okay. There is no link. As you can imagine this will require more storage than your original hard drive and it can only be read or restored with software. both are deleted. drive A is updated. drive B never sees it. If you delete a file. Syncing: creating two identical copies that is updated both ways. RECAP MIRROR two external hard drives that are updated automatically when a change is made. For our purpose this ISN’T RIGHT for us. Mirroring: creating two identical copies that is only updated one way.

Doing what we know to do is smart. Not doing what we know is stupid. We know not to format a card until the files are backed up to at least three places. We know better than to copy the DCIM folder to the desktop and reformat the card because it’s the only one we have. We know that making backups nightly is the right thing to do.S E C T I O N 2 AVOID LOSING FILES We know it’s a great idea to shoot to two cards at once. We know that naming files when importing them is important. K E V I N A M E S .

Most pro cameras can do this. Most amateur cameras cannot. I use Hoodman RAW cards exclusively. Avoid doing stupid things. in the back of our minds we know we must do but choose not to do. • Shoot tethered into an external drive connected to your computer and have the camera record the take on a memory card too. • If possible shoot to two memory cards at the same time. • Use smaller memory cards. Breaking a shoot up over several cards minimizes loss should one of them fail.S E C T I O N 2 | A V O I D L O S I N G F I L E S HOW TO AVOID LOSING FILES • Carry one set of cards yourself. A stupid thing is something that. 180 . I use and recommend Gepe Card Safe Extremes for both SD & CF cards. • Use floating water and dust proof cases to store memory cards. Give the other set to an assistant It’s really simple. WHEN SHOOTING… • Buy the best cards possible.

• Keep a backup copy offsite. • Use the same serial number as a file name prefix followed by a dash.S E C T I O N 2 | A V O I D L O S I N G F I L E S AFTER THE SHOOT… DURING POST PRODUCTION • Immediately download the cards by importing into Lightroom • Use a serial number prefix followed by a dash for each project’s folder. • If you don’t back up your files every day. This embeds a copy of the original RAW file in a new Photoshop document • Wait to reformat the card until you have made two backups of the primary data hard drive. Software can do this automatically. ONGOING BEST PRACTICES • Write the date on a hard drive when it’s put in service. 1-on the primary data hard drive and 1-on the secondary drive. highlight the photo. all hard drives fail! • Use RAID devices to protect against drive failures. There are now three copies: 1-on the card. I use Carbon Copy Cloner to handle the task on my Macs. The Drobo 5D has this feature. 181 . • Back up data every night. Try SyncBack as a Windows solution. then choose Edit in… Open as Smart Object in Photoshop. take the secondary back up there. I use Drobo 5Ds with 6 terabyte hard drives. right click. use Lightroom to import to a second hard drive during import. Include a description of the project in the folder name. • Update the backup copy at least once a week. It means two of the five drives can fail at the same time and the data on the RAID is still safe. • If there is an offsite location. use dual disk redundancy with the RAID. If you do this nightly. • When sending work to Photoshop from Lightroom. the cards are available for formatting the next morning. • Remember. • If possible.

your computer includes built-in software to make it easier to backup an entire hard drive. but very worth it.S E C T I O N 3 BACK-UP A MAC DRIVE If you use a Mac. The process is a little complex. K E V I N A M E S .

A BRIEF OVERVIEW • It must have a way back to recover a previous version. It’s really affordable at $39. • It absolutely must work over a network. The method is not obvious either. too. they are quite hard to automate. It’s really not an option. • It must be able to copy only new files to save time. This is not the way to do it. I suggest you read it first. Even if they were. Then it was donation-ware. The first impulse is to Command + A to select all of the files then drag them to the new hard drive. As always. 183 . Mike Bombich wrote the original CCC back in 2002 when Apple was transitioning to OS X from 9. • It would be nice.S E C T I O N 3 | B A C K . • It must be cost effective. • It must have scheduling options to set backup times. if it could make a perfect copy of an existing drive every time. Actually.U P A M A C BACKING UP TO A SECOND (OR THIRD) HARD DRIVE ON THE MAC D R I V E MY SOLUTION: CARBON COPY CLONER 4 Making a copy of a one hard drive to another is not difficult. my MacPro does. NEEDED FEATURES A robust backup system has a lot of requirements and a few “nice-to-haves. is like using your seatbelt. they are not the best for making perfect copies. • It would be very nice for it to be able to create bootable copies of drives. Now it’s in version 4 already updated for OS X 10. • It must be able to accurately copy even files that are locked or in use on a computer. This “suggestion.” Here’s my list.” by the way. Best of all. I really like that CCC does almost everything from the main dialog box.11 – El Capitan. If you don’t. While the Mac’s Finder tools are quite good.95. It’s a great place to start. right there at the bottom of the main window is a Use Simple Settings… button. The manual that comes with Carbon Copy Cloner is sort of straight forward. It’s really a hands-off piece of software. I use it every day.

Task three finishes the job by copying the rest of the new files to as second volume on the same Drobo in Task 2.44 gigs thanks to their Thunderbolt connections. Those get copied to the second drive. 15 seconds to copy 2. A WALK THROUGH CCC The CCC dialog box (shown above) starts with the Tasks at the top left sidebar. they run automatically. This happens automatically after the first task completes.U P A M A C D R I V E Task two is copying a selected set of new files to a volume on a networked Drobo. This will work with single drives in external housings. The screenshot below tells the tale of what happened last night. All of the tasks run consecutively without any help from me. Carbon Copy Cloner knows which files are new. Once CCC tasks are scheduled. Below that is a list of all of the volumes mounted on my MacPro. The screenshot shows the first task – make an exact copy of the Primary Drobo 5D to the second one. The time it took was 36 minutes. It’s important to note here that using Drobos is not required. CCC REPORTS Carbon Copy Cloner keeps a log of tasks and their status. Carbon Copy Cloner is very picky about how it determines what to copy. It reports that the folder Projects was successfully copied from my primary drive (Ames 5D1) to the networked volume DroboPro-02 at 4:36 in the morning on October first.S E C T I O N 3 | B A C K . The last task to run is at the top.64 gigabytes of photos. 184 . It also uses a very precise method of making the copies. Click on a task to display it in the main window. It just takes time. Look at the entry for Ames5D1 > Ames5D2. 2015. I’m sleeping and really don’t worry about it. It took these two Drobos only 26 minutes and 25 seconds to copy 25.

When the power fails (once or twice a year. That’s it. When I sit down at my MacPro in the morning. It’s reliable and practically trouble free.S E C T I O N 3 | B A C K . I have to make sure the network server is running. I put the date-month and year-a drive goes into service. 185 .U P A M A C D R I V E NOTIFICATIONS MY RESPONSIBILITIES Carbon Copy Cloner reports success three ways: a green light next to each logged task.) I have to restart the iMac. I replace it with a fresh one. the Drobo tells me and I replace it. What I love is how absolutely simple this backup system is. a note at the bottom of the History window and with a notification. even if I’ve been away for a few days. That machine is an old iMac with a Drobo connected to it. If it’s still running after five years. I have to initially set up Carbon Copy Cloner. CCC picks up where it left off. I click on it an get an instant update that the previous night’s backups had completes. there is a notification waiting from CCC right on the screen. I have to replace hard drives. The used drives go into older Drobos that act as another layer of backup. It’s really easy. Should one of them fail.

S E C T I O N 4 BACK-UP A PC DRIVE A “Set it and Forget it” automated backup workflow ensures your files are safely copied to a second hard drive allowing quick access to your files without disturbing your workflow in the event of a drive failure. V A N E L L I .

Before you start using File History to backup your files. It only takes about 15 minutes to configure a backup for your files giving you peace of mind. you need to first select where your backups are saved. The simplest solution is to connect an external drive.U P A P C D R I V E BACKUP USING FILE HISTORY Microsoft has included a basic backup and restore program with their Windows’ 10 operating system." 187 . such as a USB drive.S E C T I O N 4 | B A C K . Click Add a drive and choose your option. File History is now archiving your data. There are other choices. connect a Network Attached Storage (NAS) drive such as Drobo 5N. or for a better bullet proof solution. To access the backup application from the start menu open the Settings app and go to Update & Security > Backup. An on/off slider will now appear under a new heading called "Automatically backup my files. but these two provide the best options to help protect your files against a crash or other PC problems.

U P A P C D R I V E SELECT BACKUP FOLDERS EXCLUDE THESE FOLDERS By default.Select the folder you want to add and click Choose this folder. 188 . or to remove some. Scroll down to Exclude these folders and click Add a folder.S E C T I O N 4 | B A C K . Windows’ File History will backup all the folders in your User folder. To add other folders to File History. click on More options under the on/off slider and scroll down to Backup these folders and click Add a folder.Select the folder you want to exclude and click Choose this folder.

we need to select when to start the backup. To run your first backup. scroll down to the bottom and click Restore files from a current backup. click Backup now. 189 . and restore a file to its original location. If you want to retrieve a lost file from a previous backup. preview your files to check you’ve got the correct version.U P A P C D R I V E SET BACKUP SCHEDULE RESTORE A FILE Now that we have chosen which folders to backup.S E C T I O N 4 | B A C K .and choose Forever from the Keep my backups dropdown menu. where you can browse through your entire backup by folder. From the Backup my files dropdown select Daily. This will open a new window.

U P A P C D R I V E OTHER OPTIONS Windows’ backup utilities is a good. These paid programs offer a much powerful backup and synchronization option. 190 . If you want more control of your backup workflow. consider purchasing backup programs such as 2BrightSparks’ SyncBack Pro or Acronis’ True Image. free solution. however it is basic.S E C T I O N 4 | B A C K .

However. or there’s a leak in a water pipe over my desk. and for me that place is my SmugMug account. L E V I S I M . what if my office burns down.S E C T I O N 5 BACKING UP WITH SMUGMUG My Drobo is peace of mind. or what if my kid spills Kool-Aid inside my Drobo? I’ve got to have a place in the Cloud where my pictures are protected and safe. It’s got all my pictures redundantly stored and ready to access anytime.

and am just impressed. Lastly. if I make additional changes to an image or want to add more pictures to a gallery. I can include pictures of the kitchen sink and it doesn’t cost me any extra. Secondly. SmugMug is my choice for four reasons. SmugMug only stores jpegs. I just do it in Lightroom and press publish again and they magically show up on Mug with the changes and in the correct order. and click publish and Lightroom converts them to jpegs and publishes them all at once. It’s really simple and simplifies the workflow. then go to SmugMug and upload them. I have to export those files and upload them again. using Lightroom with SmugMug saves me some steps in the workflow. normally I’d have to export all my pictures as jpegs. but SmugMug’s service give me lots of abilities I wouldn’t get with another cloud service. So. Using the Lightroom plugin. Bet of all. They have live chat for problem solving all day long. 192 .S E C T I O N 5 | B A C K I N G U P W I T H WHY SMUGMUG? S M U G M U G Not only that. I honestly don’t know how I could do business without my SmugMug site. The good service seems to start right at the top and trickles down to me. My SmugMug site is my website where I send clients and where I run my e-commerce. SmugMug has excellent customer service. They take good care of their employees and their employees take good care of me. I’ve enjoyed working with them for several years. I just add all the pictures I want into a collection. all the subscription plans include unlimited storage so I don’t have to be too choosey with what I push up to my albums. and it even lets me deliver a .zip file to my clients with all their pictures included. and if I make additional edits or want to add pictures. and they respond to emails in the after hours really quickly. First of all.

You’ll then get a prompt asking you to authorize your SmugMug account. Using SmugMug with Lightroom is just like using a Collections. The structure you create in Lightroom will be the same organization SmugMug shows on your site. 193 . You create a new gallery just like a collection and can add pictures the same ways. go to the Publish Services tab in the Library Module. Click the Authorize button on the right side under the SmugMug Account tab in the window. 5 | B A C K I N G U P W I T H AUTHORIZE THE PLUGIN S M U G M U G To get started. which will open a window.S E C T I O N 1. and it will launch a web browser. so you can just slick on the word “Setup” on the right side of the tab. Click Authorize again. too. SmugMug is one of the included services.

Lightroom will begin synching your SmugMug hierarchy (your folder structure) from the website to your Lightroom catalog.S E C T I O N 5 | B A C K I N G U P W I T H Login to your SmugMug account. then the SmugMug page will tell you the authorization is complete. go back to Lightroom and click the Done button. 194 . S M U G M U G Now.

then you can get started and do it straight from Lightroom. you can also right click on the SmugMug tab and choose Edit Settings and then choose to Sync Pictures. S M U G M U G This will take some time. 195 . If there are already pictures on your site. If you haven’t populated SmugMug yet. but it will search your Lightroom catalog to find the pictures that match the ones online and populate the collections.S E C T I O N 5 | B A C K I N G U P W I T H Now you’ll see that the file structure in the Catalog looks just like your structure on your webpage.

then you can right click on that folder and choose Create Gallery. and the service I get from SmugMug to be beyond compare. I find the integration with Lightroom to be flawless. or right click on the gallery and choose Show on SmugMug. I highly recommend using SmugMug to back and share your photographs. too. Just right click on the SmugMug tab and choose Create Folder. or even set the gallery as the Target Gallery and press the B key to add pictures on the fly. or right click on the gallery and choose Publish Now. It’s a great place to back up the full resolution jpegs. and it’s a terrific place to share with clients or even sell prints and products. PRESS PUBLISH I typically organize my galleries by years with sub categories and then clients under those. You can also right click on the gallery and choose to Edit Settings which includes changing the url where the pictures will be (especially helpful if you misspelled the gallery name). You can add more pictures to this collection and publish again anytime. With pictures in the gallery. just click publish from the Grid view. but you can always drag and drop pictures from the Grid view or from the filmstrip. I usually try to have a bunch of the pictures I want to include in the gallery selected when I create it. 196 . In the Grid view. CREATE A FOLDER AND GALLERIES 3. I push all my finished pictures up onto SmugMug. you can click on the url at the top of the page next to the Publish button to go to the page online.S E C T I O N 5 | B A C K I N G U P W I T H S M U G M U G 2.


but can’t remember when I last printed any of them. In a totally digital world.S E C T I O N 6 BACKING UP WITH CRASHPLAN I can’t remember the last time I’ve printed my images. It’s great to share them online I love to share my images online. the importance of backing up your life can’t be understated. N I C K M I N O R E .

CRASHPLAN C R A S H P L A N family plan lets me back up data on up to ten computers to their centralized online storage system. having a secure backup means having at least three copies of your data. Two copies should be local. My favorite means of backing up to the cloud is through CrashPlan. At the time of writing this. Tons of services like Dropbox. Google Drive and Microsoft OneDrive offer a file system in the cloud. Choose your Files. If you’re going to be using CrashPlan to back up photos at your business. The downside is that it’s reliant on you to copy files into their system. I have two desktop computers and two laptops. Their service is easy to use and their mission is simple: we’ll protect your digital life. then maybe the business plan is right for you. Fundamentally. so a great third place is the cloud. The third copy should be off-site. so you don’t have to worry. so you can get back to what’s important in real life. the family plan price is about $150 per year for 2-10 computers and unlimited file storage. It’s a very quick and easy setup…there’s really just four steps: Install. The 199 . Setup an Account. as working local is always the fastest way to access your data.S E C T I O N 6 | B A C K I N G U P W I T H BACKING UP TO THE CLOUD . It’s time to automate your backup. so I opted for their family plan. Start the Backup. It’s not easy to find a spot to leave a hard drive and keep it updated.

Whenever you’re not active on the computer. This will includes your Documents Folder. Pictures Folder. Click the last tab that says Cloud and choose Start Backup. CrashPlan will scan the files you’ve chosen to back up and give an estimated time. After you’ve made an account. but it may not know where your pictures are stored if you’re using an external hard drive. That’s it! CrashPlan has a background app that runs without you ever needing to touch it. so it might take a while depending on how many files you have and how fast your connection speed is. It’s not uncommon to see weeks or months. automatically. We are backing up via the Internet. C R A S H P L A N Now that you’ve chosen which files to back up. and more. 200 . it will connect to the server and start backing up your files. The whole point of using CrashPlan is to backup to Crash Plan Central. Movies Folder. so click on Destinations from the menu on the left. then press Save. you’ll create a free CrashPlan account that all your backups will be associated with. Simply put a checkmark in front of the drives or folders you want to back up. we’ll need to specify a destination to back those files up to. CrashPlan is smart enough to know where your “home” folder is on your computer. Click the Change button and a popup will load a list of your computer files and hard drives. Locate the Files section near the middle of the screen.S E C T I O N 6 | B A C K I N G U P W I T H Once you’ve downloaded and installed the software. CrashPlan will take you to the dashboard where you can choose the files you’d like to backup.

S E C T I O N 7 BACKING UP A CATALOG Nothing gives me a thrill of terror up my spine like the nonchalant messages a computer gives when something has gone terribly wrong. Fortunately. Launching Lightroom and seeing a message like. the engineers at Lightroom understand this. and they’ve given us a simple way to prepare for just such an instance: automatic backups. “This catalog is corrupted and you’re totally out of luck” is one of the worst things that could happen to my professional life. L E V I S I M .

and the reminder helps me remember to do it every time I’m not in a hurry. but I do it frequently. Go to the Lightroom menu (PC: Edit Menu) and choose Catalog Settings. and then Murphy’s Law would make sure I had a problem immediately. Step 1. I know what you’re thinking. then go to the General tab. and I always back it up before I go on a trip.” I don’t either.S E C T I O N 7 | B A C K I N G U P A C A T A L O G MAKE IT AUTOMATIC Step 2. or every month. If I set it for every week. then I’m sure at that time I’d also be in a hurry and not do it. “I don’t want to wait overtime I exit Lightroom for it to back up the catalog. Under Backup choose Everytime Lightroom Exits. but when I quite Lightroom is gives me the option. and sometimes I choose to let it backup. Here’s what you do. I don’t do it every time. The process to backup is pretty easy. Oh. 202 .

then a damaged catalog means you’ve lost all your edits.S E C T I O N 7 | B A C K I N G U P A C A T A L O G BACKING UP YOUR CATALOG ISN’T BACKING UP YOUR PICTURES BACK UP YOUR HARD DRIVE Having a backup of your catalog is also useless if you don’t back up your hard drive. It just makes a backup of the settings you’ve create for all your pictures. which includes the Lightroom backup.dng files. but your original picture files are unchanged. If you haven’t exported a jpeg or written the changes into . Backing up the catalog makes a backup file in the Lightroom folder in your Pictures folder. You gotta remember: Lightroom doesn’t have you pictures in it. It doesn’t magically save everything if you have a problem with your computer itself. I use Time Machine on my Mac to backup the hard drive. 203 . Backing up the catalog doesn’t back up your pictures.xmp or .

When you need to work in another program. then select your intended program. just right-click and choose Edit In. Plugins like the onOne Suite or HDR Soft Photomatix will also have options here if you have the applications installed. N I C K M I N O R E . It’s easy to edit externally using the Edit In function. but it’s not uncommon for me to jump into Photoshop or another plugin to help enhance my work.S E C T I O N 8 ROUND-TRIP WORKFLOW My workflow starts and ends with Lightroom.

then click Preferences. Now you can make any changes you’d like. with a PSD extension. TIFF images are easier for Lightroom to handle with metadata. This flattens Lightroom’s adjustments into a new Photoshop file. then click Preferences. Lightroom will apply the develop settings and bring your image into Photoshop and label the file as a -Edit. The second time you choose to edit an image in Photoshop. Adobe gives you the option to choose a high-resolution TIFF image or a PSD file. simply click File > Save and Lightroom will update the file in your catalog. Command-E or Control-E. then when you’re done in Photoshop. Edit in Adobe Photoshop CC. or Edit Original. I recommend choosing Photoshop. select the third tab labeled External Editing. The most important option here is the first section. but PSD files give the ultimate flexibility when jumping between both Photoshop and Lightroom. without applying the most recent Lightroom adjustments. Tasks like masking and combining images. When the dialog box appears. From the File Format menu. as part of maintaining a non-destructive workflow. choose the Lightroom. retouching skin. Editing a copy with Lightroom Adjustments will make another copy of this image and label it Edit-Edit. editing the original file will open up the TIFF or PSD that we originally edited and preserve any work or layers created in Photoshop.T R I P W O R K F L O W LIGHTROOM TO PHOTOSHOP ROUND-TRIP WORKFLOW To go directly into Photoshop when editing an image. choose the Edit menu. a popup box will appear giving you three choices: Edit a Copy with Lightroom Adjustments. Editing a copy will open another version of the image. External editing has it’s own settings page in the Lightroom preferences menu. or adding special effects warrant editing the original file. On a Mac. Edit a Copy. you can also use the keyboard shortcut.S E C T I O N 8 | R O U N D . Lastly. 205 . On a PC.

The mirrored drive then gets backup and transported offsite either physically or by using an online backup service to complete the final fail-safe plan.S E C T I O N 9 BULLETPROOF BACKUP SYSTEM The workflow is simple. We use our computer to store and run programs that saves data to an external hard drive which is mirrored to a local external hard drive. V A N E L L I .

You only need space for the operating system. Following a 3-2-1 backup plan and building our system around it will prevent these disaster scenario from happening. We restore from the offsite service using a seed drive. Restore just that file from our offsite backup using their online tools.S E C T I O N 9 | B U L L E T P R O O F B A C K U P S Y S T E M DISASTER SCENARIO ORGANIZING WHERE TO STORE YOUR FILES Scenario 1: The external hard drive fails. you only lose time by having to re-install programs. 207 . Your computer’s hard drive doesn’t have to be large but it does have to be fast. paging files or virtual memory Scenario 3: We delete an important file. Zero downtime. plugins. we use the local mirrored drive as the new working drive and the replacement drive gets rebuilt as the new mirrored drive. With this in mind. A smaller 250 GB solid state drive will yield a better performance than a 4TB 5400 rpm drive. • Program files • Operating System • Scratch disk. files that don’t have to be re-installed to work such as program preferences. program files and virtual memory used by your operating system and programs such as Photoshop. Computer: Store any file that can be re-installed Scenario 2: The drives are stolen or destroyed in a catastrophes. actions and presets should be stored on an external drive. In the event of a hard drive failure and you DON’T have a backup system.

use them. SyncBack is great for mirroring and keeping both drives synchronized. If the price is right and they have great customer care. • CrashPlan • Carbonite • Backblaze • Acronis TrueImage • Memeo AutoBackup • SpiderOak There are many choices for online backups. it may take months to back up. Google Drive. For such an important role. Alan Henry from lifehacker wrote a great article on the Five Best Online Backup Services. 208 .S E C T I O N 9 | B U L L E T P R O O F B A C K U P S Y S T E M External Hard drive: Store any file that was created or can’t be replaced Network Backup drive: Mirrored copy of your external drive • Photos A network backup drive is ideal but an identical external drive will work. Compare which company has the best features you’re looking for. Seeding is when the company sends you a hard drive and you copy your data sending it back to them. The external hard drive should store any file that was created or can’t be replaced. this is going to be the drive you will use in case your main external drive fails. we need to choose reliable hardware that will grow with us. We need to mirror or synchronize this drive not perform a backup. That’s great for the next step but not for the local backup. Most backup programs compress files and keep deleted files separate. but it doesn’t allow us room to grow. an external hard drive is the heart. Adobe Cloud) The computer’s hard drive is the brain. Starting with a small 1TB drive can fill up fast and a 4TB drive sounds like a lot. Depending on the amount of data you have. • Videos • Music • Documents • Presets or actions • Downloads • Cloud Storage (Dropbox. It’s faster but it may cost extra. An alternative is seeding. Offsite backup: Compressed version of your backup stored offsite with online access. Remember.

00 Computer: work with the drive you have • $120. 1TB drives are plenty for word documents. Photographers getting started in the business. save $68.0 Hard Drive • $  0. Photographers add $120.00 Local mirrored drive: WD My Passport Ultra 1TB Portable External USB 3.00 Computer: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB solid state drive • $68. If using this setup with a Laptop. Adding a Network Attached Storage (NAS) such as Drobo 5N or Synology for about $499.00 SyncBack 209 .00 Main working drive: WD My Passport Ultra 2TB Portable External USB 3.00 allows your storage to grow as you grow. my Dad.S E C T I O N 9 | B U L L E T P R O O F B A C K U P SIMPLE SOLUTION: $136.0 Hard Drive • $109.00 Local mirrored drive: WD My Passport Ultra 2TB Portable External USB 3.00 Ideal for: Typical users.00 Main working drive: WD My Passport Ultra 1TB Portable External USB 3. Ideal for: Running a very small Home based business.00 by using your internal drive as your main working drive.0 Hard Drive • $109. This setup isn’t Bulletproof but is better than nothing.00 Offsite: CrashPlan with online access • $ 55. • $  0.00 Offsite: Built in software with WD Passport to Dropbox or Google Drive • $150.00 for the solid state drive.0 Hard Drive • $68. You’ll thank me later when editing in Photoshop or Lightroom. Weekend photographers. College Kids.00 to $599.00 S Y S T E M AFFORDABLE SOLUTION ON A BUDGET: $423. You have to be discipline and sync your drives plus backup to Dropbox or Google Drive. music and cell phone photos.

a nice perk as a professional photographer and educator.00 bringing the total cost to $408. Drobo takes the up front guess work out of determining the amount of capacity I require. Several years ago I received a Drobo FS to evaluate.00 Computer: 120GB Samsung solid state drive • $599. like it. I buy the capacity I need today. the price was right. keep it” over the years. Drobo’s are self-healing. self-managing and even self-optimizing.00 Main work drive : 10TB Drobo 5D connected via usb 3 • $499. Drobo has been my choice for data storage for years. Exactly what I need. Each drive cost $102. 7200 RPM drives are recommended for faster performance. The best part of this solution. upgrading from the FS to the 5D and 5N units.00 to the overall storage solution.00 Offsite: Crashplan with online access • $  55. but I choose to stay with Drobo. I simply replace my smallest drive with a larger one and immediately use that capacity in seconds. Ideal for: Professional photographers. I use Seagate 7200 RPM hard drives for the same reason. • $  60. I have grown my storage needs around Drobo.00 SyncBack 210 .00 Local mirrored drive : 10TB Drobo 5N connected to the network via ethernet • $150. I grew my 10TB system over the years. Since then. Mission critical business where downtime is not an option.Currently I have four Seagate Desktop 3 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 7200 RPM in each Drobo. I fell in love with it and kept it. I’ve had offers from other NAS companies to “try it. Users that want a storage solution to grow as they grow.00 per unit adding $816.00 BASE PRICE S Y S T E M MY REASONING I purchased the Samsung solid state drive because of their reputation and at the time. and when I need more storage.S E C T I O N 9 | B U L L E T P R O O F B A C K U P MY PERSONAL BULLETPROOF BACKUP SOLUTION: $1363.

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