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SECTION

2.10

OCTAGON PORT

Octagon Port

2.10

The simple middle piece was made from a few styrene
circles in varying thicknesses, as shown.

Once they were all cut out and sanded smooth, the circles
were centered and glued up in order.

For the more complicated back vent, the vinyl template
was indispensible. I used a small drill bit in my Dremelrouter to open us all the gaps from the .080” styrene piece,
then an X-acto file to sand them smooth and sharpen up
the corners.

The finished vent section was then glued to a .063” styrene
backer.

Octagon Port

2.10

As one solid piece, the innermost part of the octo port was
trimmed down to shape.

The back plate was molded and recast in resin. Filing
those little vents out was a pain in the butt, so that was
the ONLY one I’m doing by hand!

Four pieces of .080” styrene were cut for the port’s box.

Gluing to a piece of .063” styrene as the back, the first
corner of the box is set.

Octagon Port

2.10

All four walls of the box are in place.

I didn’t have to wait too long to handle the pieces, because
I’m using Weld-On 4807 for styrene. It’s a solvent cement
which melts the plastics together. This does NOT work
when gluing styrene to PVC, though- ONLY styrene to
styrene.

Next, I began chamfering the short walls to make the box
an octagon.

Using the vent section as a template, the first angled wall
is set.

Octagon Port

2.10

All eight walls are now in place.

Using the bandsaw, the excess .” styrene was cut away by
running the vertical blade right against the outside of the
walls. Notice the .063” styrene inside the walls stays.

The radius of the droid body is traced onto the top if the
box.

The body curve is cut on the bandsaw and smoothed out
on the belt sander.

Octagon Port

2.10

A threaded rod (screw with the head cut off) is screwed
into the DC hole on the round piece.

With the screw in the back, the round section kinda looks
like a fat screw.

Using the hole in the center of the vent section, a hole
matching the diameter of the screw in the round piece was
drilled through both the box and vent sections.

They were drilled together, so they line up perfectly,
allowing the screw in the round piece to push through.

Octagon Port

2.10

A screw behind the box secure all three sections together
tightly. Notice the corners were also removed from the
box.

Front view of the assembled unit.

Unassembled view, unpainted.

Unassembled view, painted. Having the vent section
separate from the box made painting a lot easier, since I
didn’t have to mask anything inside.

Octagon Port

Assembled view, painted.

View of the installed piece from the outside.

2.10

Looking inside the droid from the rear, the octo port is
secured in place by a custom bracket, bent to fill in the
height of the space. The screw in the rear of the octo port
fits through a hole in the bracket.