Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute Of Fashion Technology

New Delhi

TEXTILE
INTERNSHIP
REPORT

ARVIND LIMITED | DENIM DIVISION

ARUSHI SRIVASTAVA

VAISHALI RAI

Certificate of Authenticity

CERTIFICATE

This is
to certify that Arushi Srivastava and Vaishali Rai of BFT-V,
National
Institute
Of Fashion
Technology, New
Delhi did their internships at
Arvind

Limited
Denim

|
Division,

Naroda, Ahemdabad from

May 26, 2013 to June 15, 2013 towards the partial fulfillment
of the program B.F.Tech (Apparel Production).

This project report has been created and compiled by them under
the guidance of

Ms. Girija Jha and is their authentic work.

Arushi Srivastava

Vaishali Rai

Ms. Girija Jha

Mentor

Page 2

Acknowledgeme
nt

At the outset, we wish to

express our gratitude to
everybody who has
assisted in the
formulation of this report.
There are many to whom
expression of gratitude is
inevitable, but there
some special people who
have to be given
prominence, without
whom we would not have
reached the conclusion of
this project so quickly
and so efficiently.

We are grateful to Dr.

Senthil Kumar for guiding
us throughout the
internship. We would like
to thank our Course
Coordinator and mentor
Ms. Girija Jha and Mr. N.A.
Khan, who has always
added to our buoyancy
with her tremendous

efforts and for her

constant support.

At Arvind Limited, we
would like to thank the
HR manager, Ms. Richa
Ahuja; our industry
mentor, Mr. Diwaker
Tiwari, Chief ManagerManufacturing and Mr.
Mahesh Ramakrishnan,
head of the Agribusiness
Department. Also, we
would like to express a
special gratitude to the
company for being
excellent hosts.

We take this opportunity

to express our affection
towards our parents for
their consistent faith and
support.

Arushi Srivastava

Vaishali Rai

Page 3

Contents
1. About the
Company

1.1.
Introduction
07
1.2. Journey
09
1.3.
Companys
Vision
11
1.4. Divions

1.4.1. Denim
12
1.4.2. Woven
Fabrics
13
1.4.3. Knits
16
1.4.4.
Garment
Export
17

1.4.5.
Advanced
Materials
18
1.4.6. Arvind
Brands
19
1.4.7. Mega
Mart Reta
20
1.4.8. The
Arvind Store
21
1.5.
Executive
Leaders
22
1.6. Board of
Directors
24
1.7. Denim
Division
28
1.8.
International
buyers
30
1.9. Own
Brands
31

2. Production
Process

2.1. Process
Flow Chart
32
2.2. Spinning

2.2.1.
Process Flow
33
2.2.2. Blow
Room
34
2.2.3.
Carding
38

Page 4

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

2.2.4. Drawing
40
2.2.5. Spinning
42
2.3. Warp Dyeing

2.3.1. Introduction
46
2.3.2. Rope Dyeing
48
2.3.3. Slasher dyeing
54
2.4. Weaving
59
2.5. Finishing & Processing

2.5.1. Introduction
61
2.5.2. Wet Finishing
62
3. Denim Incubation Department

3.1. Design Team

66
3.2. Design Line
69
3.3. Innovation Pipeline Denims
70
3.4. Technical Team
71
4. Quality Assurance & Standardization

4.1. Introduction
74
4.2. Process Defects
76
4.3. Testing

4.3.1. Physical
79
4.3.2. Chemical
80
4.3.3. Shade
82
4.4. Packaging & Shipping
83
4.5. Accreditations
84

Page 5

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

5.
Project Report-

5.1. Better Cotton Initiative

87

5.1.1. Introduction
89

5.1.2. Features
90

5.1.3. The Better Cotton System

91

5.1.4. Production Principles

92

5.1.5. Criteria For Assessment

92

5.1.6. Audit Information

93

5.1.7. Products Traceability Along The Supply Chain

93

5.1.8. Support
94

5.1.9. Costs

94

5.1.10.
Countries & Regions
96

5.1.11.
Overview of Requirements
98

5.2. BCI at Arvind Limited

5.2.1. Introduction
101

5.2.2. Farm Projects

102

5.2.3. Contract Farming

103

5.2.4. Benefits

5.2.4.1.
Economical Benefits
105

5.2.4.2.
Environmental Benefits
106

5.2.4.3.
Social Benefits
106

5.2.5. Quality Assessment

107

5.2.6. Results & Analysis

108

5.2.7. Conclusion

109
6.
References

110

Page 6

About the Company

Introduction

Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000

($55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the
high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested in very sophisticated
technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and
1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days to start
along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to fullfledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing.
The sales in the year 1934, three years after establishment were
Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82 lakh. Steadily producing
high quality fabrics, year after year, Arvind took its place amongst
the foremost textile units in the country.

In the mid 1980s the textile industry faced another major crisis.
With the power loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive
fabric, many large composite mills lost their markets, and were on
the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level
of profitability. There could be no better time, concluded the
Management, for a rethink on strategy. The Arvind management
coined a new word for it new strategy Reno vision. It simply
meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the
obvious and that became the corporate philosophy.

The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds
markets shifted from domestic to global, a market that expected
and accepted only quality goods. An in-depth analysis of the
world textile market proved an eye opener. People the world over
were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons were the
largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom
pointed to popular priced segments, Reno vision pointed to high
quality premium niches.

Page 7

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two

sections -Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric
for cotton shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600
million meters of Denim per year and it was the third largest
producer of Denim in the world.

In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and

knits facility, the largest of its kind in India, at Santej. With
Arvinds concern for environment a most modern effluent
treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability was also
established.

Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With the muliti-fiber
agreement getting phased out and the disbanding of quotas,
international textile trade was poised for a quantum leap. In the
domestic market too, the rationalizing of the cenvat chain and the
growth of the organized retail industry was likely to make textiles
and apparel see an explosive growth.

Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its

current operations by setting up worldscale garmenting facilities
and offering a one-stop shop service, by offering garment
packages to its international and domestic customers. With Lee,
Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands
of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, Arvind set its
vision of becoming the largest apparel brands company in India.

Page 8

About the Company

Journey

1931

The inception of Arvind Mills Limited at the hands of three

brothers - Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai
Lalbhai

1934

Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile

units in the country.

1980

Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new

strategy Reno vision, points at changing the business
focus from local to global, towards a high-quality premium
niche market.

1987-88

Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual

focus - Denim for leisure and Denim for fashion wear.

1991

Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of

denim in the world.

Page 9

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

1997

Indias largest
state-of-the-art
facility for
shirting,
gabardine and
knits is set up at
Santej.

2005

Arvind creates a
unique one-stop
shop service on a
global scale,
offering garment
packages to
reputed national
and international
customers.

2007

Arvind expands
its presence in the
brands and retail
segment by
establishing
MegaMart One
of Indias largest
value retail
chains.

2010

Arvind launches
The Arvind Store,
a concept putting
the companys
best fabrics,
brands and
bespoke styling
and tailoring
solutions under
one roof. Arvind
launches its first
major Real Estate
projects. Arvind
becomes one of

Indias largest
producers of fire
protection fabrics.

Page 10

About
the
Compa
ny |
The
underlying
theme
running
across the
broad

spec
trum
of all
busi
ness
activ
ities
at
Arvi
nd is
that
of
enha
ncin
g
lifest

yles of
people,
across all
diversities
and
demograp
hics.

WE
END
EAV
OUR

To

OUR
sele
PHILOSO ct,
PHY
train
WE
BELIEVE

In people
and their
unlimited
potential;
in content
and in
focus on
problem
solving; in
teams for
effective
performan
ce, in the
power of
the
intellect.

and
coac
h
peop
le to
obta
in
high
er
resp
onsi
biliti
es;
to
nurt
ure
tale
nt,
and
to
build
lead
ers
for
the
corp
orati

ons of
tomorrow;
to reward,
celebrate
and
activate all
intellectual
business
contributio
ns.

WE
DREAM

Of
excellence
in all
endeavors;
of mutual
benefit and
prosperity;
of making
the world a
better
place to
live in.

Compa
nys
Vision

We

will
ena
ble
peo
ple
to
exp
eri
enc
ea
bet
ter
qua
lity
of
life
by
pro
vidi
ng
enr

iching
and

inspiring
lifestyle

Page 11

sol
uti
ons
.

About the Company

Divisions

Denim

The late 1980s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim

in India. Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million
meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim
worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been

Arvinds core competency and have played a key role in

Arvinds success. The use of sophisticated ultramodern
technology under the guidance of world-renowned
designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the
international markets.

All Arvinds products are designed and modeled on the

basis of expert design inputs coming from Arvinds
designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the

United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the

hallmark of distinctiveness and quality.

Some Examples:

Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim

Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge

Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen

Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes

Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun

denim

Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim

The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001,

ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,

GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Arvinds labs are

certified by NABL (ISO

17025 certification) and customers like Levis, Lee, and

Wrangler etc.

Page 12

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Woven Fabrics

Shirting & Bottom

weights

Arvinds expertise
in new age
shirting fabric and
bottom weights is
unparalleled.
Arvinds shirting
fabrics have
consistently
fetched a
premium in the
local and
international
markets. Arvinds
state of the art
facility is capable
of producing a
total of 65 million
meters per

annum of Shirting
and bottom
weight fabrics.
This capacity is
set to increase
reaching a total of
84 million meters
by the next
financial year.

We have a
dedicated inhouse design
team constantly
working on
product
innovation and
fashion forecasts
for the domestic
and international
markets. We also
boast of the
largest yardage
and sampling mill
in India.

Arvinds spinning
setup can produce
a variety of counts
for yarn types like
compacts, slubs,
signed yarn etc.
Arvinds weaving

capabilities include
high-speed

Airjet looms and

Rapier looms.
Arvinds finishing
capabilities
include
continuous
bleaching and
dying ranges,
caustic
mercerization,
and machinery for
various chemical
and mechanical
finishes.

Page 13

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

A sophisticated
and supremely
flexible package
dying facility
complete with
vessels ranging
from 1 Kg to 750
Kgs and state of
the art printing
facilities are also
in place.

In addition to
cotton we now
work with a
variety of fibers
incuding Modal,
Tencel, Excel,
Viscose, Bemberg,
Lycra, Silk, Linen,
Polyester and
Nylon.

We are host to
Indias first
Ammonia
Mercerization
Plant

We use patented
technology to
impart structural
stability and
superior hand-feel
for the difficult-tohandle firbers like
Modal, Tencel,
Excel and Viscose

Over the years,

Arvinds inhouse
R&D department
has sucessfully
developed

and perfected a
number of
finishes adding
value to Arvinds
products and

uniqueness to
Arvinds range.

Other Chemical
Finishes: Wrinkle
free, Prepress,
Everfresh, Easy to
Iron,

Stain Repellant,
Nano Care, AntiBacterial,
Permawhite etc.

Mechanical
Finishes: Aero,
Peach, Brush,
Diamond Emery
and Carbonium

Arvinds product
range is certified
by Oekotex,
Arvinds
processes are
certified by

GOTS for
producing Organic
products, we're
certified
producers of Lycra
and

Teflon based
varieties, while
Arvinds
laboratory is
accredited by
Marks and
Spencers, Next,
Gap Inc., Levi's,
DuPont and
INVISTA.

Page 14

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Voiles

Arvind has been

well poised as a
leading
manufacturer of
super fine fabrics
in India. An
uncontested
market-leader in
the manufacture
of voiles, Arvind
still continues to
manufacture the
traditional fabric
for both domestic
and international
markets. The
legacy of Arvind
transcends from
the olden days
into a golden
future with a
production
capacity of 36
million meters per
annum. Arvinds
voiles are
primarily used as
blouse material

and are sold in

the domestic
market through
an impressive
network of around
150 dealers,
reaching over
5000 retail outlets
throughout India.
High quality Swiss
voiles are
exported to
Switzerland, Sri
Lanka and
countries in the
Middle East.

Page 15

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Knits

Arvinds knits
department has
an annual knitting
capacity of 5,000
tons. The knits
vertical has a
fabric dyeing
capacity of 5000
tons per annum
and yarn dyeing
capacity of 1800
tons per annum. It
has the ability to
process both
tubular and openwidth fabrics and
offers specialty
fin+ishes like
mercerization,
singeing and
various forms of
brushing and
peaching.

Basic knits:

Jersey, Pique, Rib,

and Interlock

Specialty knits:
Yarn-dyed, Auto
stripers,
Jacquards, and
Stretch fabric

Fibers: Cotton,
Excel, Viscose,
Modal, Polyester

Finishes:
Mercerization,
Brushing,
Peaching, Aerofinish.

Marks & Spencer

Eddie Bauer
Zara Josepha
Banks

Page 16

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Garment Exports

A world without
boundaries is a
promise of a
global
marketplace. At
Arvind, our range
of fabrics is
universal in
appeal. We aim to
inspire a diverse
mix of customers
enriching
lifestyles globally.
We have
successfully
established
ourselves as a
one-stop shop for
apparel solutions
catering to an
array of national
and international
clients.

Bottoms: 7.2
million pieces of
jeans per annum

Formal & Casual tops: 6

million pieces per annum

Knit tops: 3.6 million

pieces per annum

Our specialized
capabilities for adding
value to our products
include:

Automated Placement
Printing Machinery

Indias largest
washing facility
with Tonello
machines for wet
proesses

Bohemian
machines and
Laser tech for
unique and
automated dry
processes

Skilled artisans
for hand
processes

Gap Inc
Patagonia
Tommy Hilfiger
Quicksilver
Brooks Brothers
Silver Jeans
Calvin Klein
FCUK Pull &
Bear Jack &
Jones Energie
Esprit S.Oliver
Mexx Sisley
Benetton Coin

Page 17

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Advanced
Materials

We envision world
leadership in the
field of advanced
materials offering
high-tech textile
solutions for
critical and
composite
applications.

Arvind Ltd., A US
$ 1.3 billion
Lalbhai Group
company has
created the
Advanced Textiles
Business. Building
further on our
legacy of
innovation, we
have brought a
new level of

sophistication to
manufacturing
fabrics. Our Pro1
range of branded
fabrics and
composite textiles
includes solutions
for growing
industrial sectors
like Personal
Protection,
Industrial
Filtration, Wind
Energy, Defense,
Auto Components,
Transportation,
and Housing &
Infrastructure.

Products in the
Pro1 range
include:
Fire Protection
Fabrics

Chemically treated Flame

Retardant Fabrics

Proban

Pyrovatex

Inherent Fire
Resistant Fabrics

Nomex

Protex (Modacrylic)

High Tech Applications

Filtration Fabrics

Anti-Ballistic Fabrics

Nylon Fabrics

Carbon-Glass-Aramid
Fabrics

Page 18

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Arvind Brands

Arvind is amongst
a few
organizations
worldwide with a
portfolio of brands
that are as
distinctive and
relevant across
diverse
consumers. At
Arvind, brands
work across
multiple channels,
price points and
consumer
segments. The
expanse of the
Arvind
brandscape is
spread across the
Indian market
with around 273
standalone brand
stores in addition
to 975 counters

selling through
key accounts and
multibrand outlets
across India.

Own Brands
Licensened
Brands
Joint Venture
Brands
Mainstream
Bridge to Luxury
Bridge to Luxury
Excalibur Gant
U.S.A. 1949
Tommy Hilfiger
Flying Machine
Energie

Popular
Premium
Premium
Ruf & Tuf
USPA
Lee

New Port
University
Arrow
Wrangler

Izod

Popular

Cherokee

Mossimo

Page 19

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Mega Mart Retail

Arvind runs
India's largest
Value Retail Chain
- Megamart. The
MegaMart format
offers a unique
and differentiated
proposition to the
consumers. It
offers mega
brands at
amazingly low
prices and
provides a retail
experience of a
high-end
department store.

The Megamart
stores range in
size from 2000 sq
ft to 65000 sq ft.
The larger stores

are called Big

Megamart and
there are 6 such
stores across
Bangalore,
Chennai, Pune
and Mumbai. The
smaller formats
spreads across
the country are
205 in number.
Megamart is
expanding rapidly
and is expected to
be a Rs. 1000 cr
chain within the
next two years.

The brands sold

exclusively in
Megamart
include:

RUGGERS - SKINN
- ELITUS DONUTS KARIGARI - MEA
CASA - AUBURN
HILL -

BAY ISLAND COLT - LEISHAEDGE

Page 20

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

The Arvind Store

After decades of
ruling the national
and international
fabric markets,
Arvind has now
introduced The
Arvind Store, a
unique concept in
fabrics and
apparel retail. The
Arvind Store bring
together, under
one roof, the best
that Arvind has to
offer.

It is a convergence
of three of Arvinds
strongest
capabilities, the
best of fabrics
from Arvinds
textiles division,

leading apparel
brands from
Arvind Brands and
bespoke styling
solutions based on
the latest garment
styles from Arvind
Studios. In a world
where bespoke
tailoring meets
cutting edge
fashion, The
Arvind Store will
create a shopping
experience to rival
the best in the
Indian
Marketplace.

Over a 1000
different fabric
styles across
shirting, suiting
and denim
Leading apparel
brands such as
Arrow, US Polo &
Flying Machine
Arvind Denim
Labs (ADL), a
bespoke denim
concept offering
customized
washed denim - a

first of its kind in

India and perhaps
the world

Arvind Studio A
styling and
tailoring solution
to rival the best
brands in the
world

Page 21

About the Company

Corporate

Jayesh Shah

Director & CFO

Anang Lalbhai

MD - Arvind Products

Lifestyle Fabrics

Aamir Akhtar

CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim

Susheel Kaul

CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics

Executive Leaders

PD Chavda

President, Voiles

Lifestyle Apparel

Ashish Kumar

CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts

Page 22

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Brands & Retail

J.Suresh

Managing Director - Brands & Retail

Knowledge Academy

Milan Shah

CEO, Knowledge Academy

Page 23

About the Company

|
Board of Directors

MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI

(CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR)

Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and Managing Director of the
Company. He is a Science Graduate with a Master's degree in Business Management
and has been associated with the Company for more than 33 years. He also holds
directorships in Arvind Lifestyle Brands Limited, Arvind Retail Limited, Arvind Brands &
Retail Limited, Amol Decalite Limited, Torrent Pharmaceuticals Limited, Arvind
Worldwide Inc., USA, Arvind Worldwide (M) Inc., Arvind Overseas (M) Ltd. Arvind
Spinning Ltd., Mauritius and Arvind Textile Mills Limited, Bangladesh.

MR. JAYESH SHAH

(DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER)

Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Wholetime Director with the designation of
Director and Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He is a Commerce Graduate and a
Chartered Accountant and has been with the company since 1st July, 1993. He has a
distinguished academic career and extensive administrative, financial, regulatory and
managerial expertise. He also holds directorships in many other companies.

Page 24

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

MR. PUNIT
LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE
DIRECTOR)

Mr. Punit Lalbhai,

30 years, is an
MBA from INSEAD
(France)
specializing in
Strategy and
General
Management,
along with PostGraduate degree
in Masters of
Environmental
Science from Yale
University, and a
Bachelors degree
in Science
(Conservation
Biology) from
University of
California, USA.
He has several
awards and
honors during his
career including

Research Grants,
Presidential
Fellowship Grant,
J.M. LongEndowed
Scholarship and
inclusion in
Deans Lists for
consistent

Academic
Excellence.

MR. KULIN
LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE
DIRECTOR)

Mr. Kulin Lalbhai,

27years, is an
MBA from Harvard
Business School
(USA), along with
a Bachelors
degree in Science
(Electrical
Engineering) from
Stanford
University, USA.

He has held
several leadership
positions during
his academic role
including serving
as Co-President of
Family Business
Club at Harvard,
Associate Director
for Stanford Asia
Technology
Initiative and also
serving as
Conference CoChair for the
Harvard-India
Conference.

Page 25

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

OTHER
DIRECTORS

Mr. Sudhir Mehta

(Non-executive
and
Independent
Director)

Mr. Sudhir Mehta

is a Science
Graduate from
Gujarat University.
He was
instrumental in
the growth and
progress of
Torrent
Pharmaceuticals
Ltd., the flagship
Company of the
Torrent Group. He
systematically
expanded the

power business of
Torrent Group by
acquiring
significant stakes
in the Torrent
Power AEC Ltd.
and Torrent Power
SEC Ltd. and
Torrent Power
Generation
Limited, now
merged with
Torrent Power
Limited and one
among the few
successful
independent
power projects in
India.

Dr. Bakul H.
Dholakia

(Non-executive
and
Independent
Director)

Dr. Bakul H.
Dholakia is a Gold
Medalist from
Baroda University

and he has a
Doctorate in
Economics. He
has 41 years of
professional
experience
including 33 years
at IIM,
Ahmedabad. He
has been a
consultant to
various national
and international
organizations. He
was awarded
many awards
including Padma
Shri by the
Government of
India in
recognition of his
distinguished
services in the
field of education
in 2007, Bharat
Asmita National
Award for his
contribution to
management
education and
teaching by the
Honbe Chief
Justice of India in
2008 etc.

Page 26

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Mr. Munesh
Khanna

(Non-executive
and
Independent
Director)

Mr. Munesh
Khanna, 50 years,
is a Chartered
Accountant from
ICAI. He has been
with the Company
since 27th
October, 2007. He
has over 20 years
of experience in
the financial,
regulatory and
taxation domain.
He has an
extensive network
of relationships
with Indian
Corporates.

Ms. Renuka
Ramnath

(Non-executive
and
Independent
Director)

Ms. Renuka
Ramnath is the
Founder and
Managing Director
of Multiples
Alternate Asset
Management Pvt.
Ltd. which seeks
to manage circa
$450 million of
Indian and
International
capital.

Mr. Prabhakar
R. Dalal

(Nominee
Director of EXIM
Bank of India)

Mr. Prabhakar R.
Dalal is the
Executive Director
of EXIM Bank of
India having
qualifications of
M.Com, LL.B,
CAIIB and
PGDFERM and a
fellow of the
Indian Institute of
Banking and
Finance (FIIBF).

He has six years

experience in
commercial
banking after
joining as PO and
28 years
experience in
International
Trade Financing,
Projecting
Financing,

Institutional
Relations,
Corporate
Banking and
Corporate
Finance.

Page 27

About the Company

Denim Division

Arvind is a pioneer in the manufacture of denim in India. Today

with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per
annum, The Naroda plant accounts for 89% of the company's total
denim fabric capacity of 108 million meters.

CEO of the Arvind denim division is Mr. Aamir Akhtar.

Arvind denim holds the position of 3rd largest producer of

denim in the world; and an export network of 70 countries
worldwide. Prominent products in this category include ring denim,
indigo voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim and fair trade
certified denim. This is apart from regular light, medium and heavy
weight denims. They come in various shades of indigo, sulfur, yarndyed, in 100% cotton and various blends.

Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design,

Innovations and Sustainability have been their core competency
and have played a key role in their success in producing the
highest quality of denim and being the market leaders.

Page 28

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

They have a huge

DNTG department
that is
Development and
New technology
that is the hub of
innovation for
denims. The use
of sophisticated
ultramodern
technology under
the guidance of
world-renowned
designers has
enabled Arvind to
deliver many
firsts in the
international
markets. The
facilities of Arvind
Denim are
accredited with
ISO 9001, ISO
14001, OEKOTEX
100, GOTS,
Organic exchange
standard, FLO for
fair trade and
Lycra Assured. As
one of the largest
denim producers
in the world,
Arvind caters to

quality markets of
Europe, US,
West Asia, the
Far East and the
Asia Pacific.
Labs are certified
by NABL (ISO

17025
certification)
The labs are
accredited by
Dupont, Levi
Strauss, GAP.

All the products

are designed and
modeled on the
basis of expert
design inputs
coming from our
designers based
out of India,
Japan, Italy and
the United States.
All Arvind Denim
products come
with the hallmark
of distinctiveness
and quality.

Page 29

About the Company

International Buyers

Page 30

About the Company

Own Brands

Page 31

Production Process
Chart

Process Flow

Page 32

Production Process
|
Spinning

PROCESS FLOW OF SPINNING DEPARTMENT:

Packaging
Spinning

Drawing

Carding

Blow Room
[Blending]

LAY OUT
SLEEVE ROOM

COTTON GODOWN

BLENDOM

AT
FILTER

BLOW ROOM
YARN STORAGE AREA

FILTER

ROOM

CARDING
EXTENSION CARDING

DRAW FRAME

AUTO

CORO

STORE

AUTO CORO

Page 33

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

BLOW ROOM

Input
Cotton Bales

-Full of trashes or impurities i.e. leaves, seed, chaff, metallic

particle, dusts etc.

Purpose

Opening

Cleaning

Mixing or blending

Dust removal

Uniform feed to the carding machine

Output
Clean & open small tufts

No. of Machines
2 Lines with 12 machines

Machine make
Trtzschler

No. of Operators
2 Operators ( 1op/mc)

To open the compressed

layer of bale of cotton or
any staple fibres.

To convert the mass of

cotton fibres in to a
uniform thick sheet of
cotton both longitudinally
and transversely in the
form of compactly built
lap.

OBJECTIVES

To blend different varieties of

To extract the impurities like
cotton in the desired
broken seeds, leaves, sand,
proposition to prepare the raw
stone & iron particles, short
material for the spinning
fibres, immature fibres, dust,
process.
dirt by opening and beating.

Page 34

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

PROCESS
FLOW OF
BLOW ROOM:

Blendomat
GBR
GBR
AFC
AFC
MPM-8
MPM-8
ASTA
ASTA
BE-961
BE-961
SRS-6
SRS-6
RN
RN
BE-981

BE-981
RSK
RSK
DUST-EX
DUST-EX
FBK 533
FBK 533
CARDING

Page 35

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Blendomat

Blending of
different types of
cotton to maintain
consistency

GBR

Cotton Opener

Converts bales
into small tufts

AFC

Axi-Flow Cleaner

Separation of
heavy parts
(impurities) from
cotton

MPM-8

Multiple Mixer
with 8 Chambers

Sorts the cotton

fibers & is used
for homogenous
mixture of fibers

ASTA

Heavy trash
separation from

BE-961

Reservoir trunk
with opening &
cleaning

SRS-6

Cleaning

Page 36

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

RN

Cleaning

BE-981

Reservoir trunk
with opening &
cleaning

RSK

Cleaning

DUST-EX

Removal of Dust
& Micro dust

FBK 533

Enables
continuous feeding
from Blow Room to
Carding

Page 37

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

CARDING
Input
Clean & open small tufts
Purpose

To open the flocks into individual fibers

Cleaning or elimination of impurities

Reduction of neps

Elimination of dust

Elimination of short fibers

Fiber blending

Fiber orientation or alignment

Sliver formation
Output
Sliver

No. of Operators
2 Operators ( 1op/10mc)

No. of Machines
20 machines
Machine make
Trtzschler
Model
DK 803
Production
18,000 kg/day
Card cleaning efficiency
62-67%

CV%
1.2-1.7%

Front Delivery speed

325 Pascal

Page 38

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Carding is the
process of
removing
impurities from
fibers and
producing a
carded

sliver of
parallelized and
straightened
fibers

Before the raw

stock can be
made into yarn,
the remaining
impurities must
be removed, the
fibers must be
disentangles, and
they must be

straightened.

The straightening
process puts the
fibers into

somewhat parallel
CARDING.

The work is done by

carding machine.

The lap is passed

through a beater
section and drawn
on rapidly
revolving cylinder
covered with very
fine hooks or wire
brushes slowly
moves

concentrically
above this
cylinder

As the cylinder
rotates, the
cotton is pulled by
the cylinder
through the small
gap under the
brushes; the
teasing action
removes the
remaining

trashes,
disentangles the
fibers , and
arranges them in
a relatively

parallel manner in
form of a thin
web.

This web is drawn

through a funnel
shaped device
that molds it into
a round rope like
mass called card
sliver.

Card sliver
produces carded
yarns or carded
cottons that are
serviceable to
produce denim
fabrics.

After carding, the

carded slivers go
to the draw
frame.

Page 39

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

DRAW FRAME

Input
Slivers

Purpose

6 Slivers are converted into 1

Parallelization of fiber

Enhancement of Density

Blending

Auto-leveler maintains absolute sliver fineness

Output
Sliver

No. of Operators
3 Operators ( 1op/4mc)

No. of Machines
6 Breakers + 6 finishers

Machine make
Trtzschler

Model
HSR 900

Production
3.5 ton/day

Drawing is the process where the fibers are blended, straightened

and the number of fibers in the sliver increased in order to achieve
the desired linear density in the spinning process. The drawing
process also improves the uniformity or evenness of the sliver. The
number of drawing passages utilised depends on the spinning
system used and the end products

Page 40

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

In arvind mills,
the sliver is
drawn through
the draw frame
twice.

1ST PASSAGE:

Parallel alignment of
fibers, 6 slivers are
converted into one sliver.

2nd PASSAGE:

Output of the
second passage
of draw frame
goes into open
end spinning.

Page 41

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

SPINNING

The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning

technology spinning.

Fehlafharfts AUTOCORO spinning machine.

No. of Machines installed - 24 (in all 3 units) 11+7+6

Total number of rotors in each Spinning Unit:

AML Section 2376 rotors

EOU Section 1680 rotors

RDP Section 1440 rotor.

Twist produced: Z twist only.

Yarn length on creel: 64800 meters.

Automatic piecing: Corolap automatic splicer

Count: 5.3 to 20 count.

6 slub forming machine

The yarn formed is rolled in form of cheese, cone and

bobbin.

The speed of the rotor roll varies from 80,000 rpm to

130,000 rpm.

Page 42

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Open end
spinning:

Rotor Spinning is
a more recent
method of yarn
formation

compared to Ring
Spinning.

This is a form of
open-end
spinning where
twist is introduced
into the yarn
without the need
for package
rotation. Allowing
higher twisting

speeds with a
relatively low
power cost.

In rotor spinning a
continuous supply
of fibers is
delivered from
delivery rollers off
a drafting system
or from an opening
unit.

The fibers are

sucked down a
delivery tube and
deposited in the
groove of the
rotor as a
continuous ring of
fiber. The fiber
layer is

stripped off the

rotor groove and
the resultant yarn
wound onto a
package.

The twist in the

yarn being
determined by
the ratio of the
rotational speed
of the rotor and
the linear speed
of the yarn.

Sliver is fed into

the machine and
combed and
individualized by
the opening roller.

Page 43

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

The fibers are then

deposited into the
rotor where air
current and
centrifugal force
deposits them
along the groove
of the rotor where

they are evenly

distributed.

The fibers are

twisted together
by the spinning
action of the
rotor, and the
yarn is
continuously
drawn from the
center of the
rotor. The

resultant yarn is
cleared of any
defects and
wound onto
packages.

The production
rates of rotor
spinning is 6-8
times higher than
that of ring
spinning and as
the machines are
fed directly by
sliver and yarn

is wound onto
packages ready
for use in fabric
formation the
yarn is a lot
cheaper to
produce.

Rotor spun yarns

are more even,
somewhat weaker
and have a
harsher feel than
ring spun yarns.

Rotor spun yarns

are mainly
produced in the
medium count (30
Ne, 20 tex) to
coarse count (10
Ne, 60 tex) range.

The yarn is wound

on a big package
of about 4 kg.

The use of this

system has two
basic advantages.
It is fed by sliver,
not as with the
ring frame by
roving, and so
eliminates the
speed

frame from the

process line. It
can also be
modified to
remove any
remaining trash,
thereby improving
the yarn quality.

Page 44

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Ring Spinning

Open-end Spinning

Bobbin rotates constantly for insertion

Spool does not need to be rotated to

of twist

insert twist

Cannot handle spools of bigger size

Much larger spools can be wound

Can spin finer yarns

3-5 times faster than ring spinning

Uniform and strong yarn

Uniform but flexible yarn with better

dye ability

Combed yarns (finer)

Carded yarns (coarser)

Yarns for varied applications

Yarns for heavier fabrics such as

denims, towels and poplins

Stronger

20% more twisted but 15-20% weaker

as the yarn is coarser

Suitable for all staple fibers

Not suitable for man-made staple fiber

spinning

Page 45

Warp Dyeing
|
Introduction

Warp Dyeing-

Normally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim manufacturing. The
dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the yarn stage. Generally there are two most
popular methods of dyeing Denim followed. They are:

Rope Dyeing

Slasher/Sheet Dyeing

Process flow of each of the above mentioned processes are discussed in detail below.

Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package

forming

parallel sheet of yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping

machines can process all type of materials including coarse and fine filament and
staple yarns, monofilament, textured and smooth yarns, silk and other synthetic yarn
such as glass.

A warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is known as weaver beam. A

weaver beam contain thousand of ends, but in denim production a beam obtain from
warping is known as section beam because denim is made from dyed yarn thats why
first section beam can be obtained and then these section beam are combined on the
stage dyeing and sizing to get required number of ends for weaving process. In denim
production initially the yarns are first dyed and then weaving process is carried out .

Page 46

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

There are two

method of yarn
dyeing in denim
production
Rope dyeing.

Slasher dyeing.

Warping method
used for both
method of
dyeing are
different. The
process used for
rope dyeing is
known as BALL
WARPING and
for slasher
dyeing

BEAM
WARPING
method is used.

BEAM WARPING
BALL WARPING

Page 47

Warp Dyeing

Rope Dyeing

ROPE DYEING

Believed to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn, the
threads of denim yarn are initially twisted into a rope, and then
undergo a repetitive sequence of dipping and oxidization. The more
frequent the dipping and oxidizing, the stronger the indigo shade.

rope = 350-460 ends

Process Flowchart-

Ball Warping

Rope Dyeing

Re-Beaming

Sizing

Ball Warping- the process of winding warp in rope form onto

balls.

Balls are cross wound packages and warp is form of rope.

Technical Details as per the company-

5 Machines in total for the process

1 operator is required per machine

Machine setup time/creel changing time is 20 min

Stop Motion / Defect sensor

444 ends per creel

320 metes/min creels rpm

4 hour cycle time

Page 48

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

2) Rope
Dyeing- the
process of
dyeing the yarn
in rope form.

Morrison Rope
dyeing range is
installed at
Arvind, Naroda.

Machine
passage- 800
meters; 5 rolls
are used per
chamber run.
Machine Units
for the process-

i)
Pre Wetting
Temp- 70+/- 30 C
/ 85C for Sulphur
BottomSq.

Zone

Pressure PSI- 70

Dancer Weights- 3

ii)
Pre
Tank 2 is cold
wash after
sulphur bottoming
I done

Washing
to prevent color
slippage and then
tank 3 and 4 hot

Zone
wash.

iii)
Dyeing Zone
Ph range- 12.45,

Redox potential
-820mv to
-860mv

Sq. Pressure- 85
+/- 3 PSI

Dancer Weight- 6

*For indigo dyeing

dip time: air time
is 1:6

iv)
Wash
Temp- 50+/- 5 C

Zone
Sq. Pressure PSI90

Dancer Weights- 6

Ash flow- 100+/-5

v)
Hot Wash
Temp- 85C

Zone
Ph range- 12.60
12.85

Redox- -810 to
-660

Sq- 75 PSI

Dancer Weight- 6

Drying Cans
48 cylinders in
total

5 bar pressure

Coiling Units
Litter waste and
final collected
separately

Page 49

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

*Shade
Checking
SystemSpectrophotomet
er is also present
in the machine

In this method a
warp beams first
converts into rope
beamers and then
transfer to the
Rope Dyeing
machine for the
further process.

Rope-dye ranges
enable to produce
pure indigo, sulfur
bottom, sulfur
top, and colored
denim yarn. The
yarn goes through
scour/sulfur dye,
wash boxes,
indigo dye vats,
over a skying
device (to allow
oxidation to
occur), through
additional wash
boxes, over drying

cans and then is

coiled into tubs
which are
transferred to the
Re- Beaming
process.

The speed range

of this machine is
0 to 30m/min with
the production
capacity of 2 sets
in same time.

Production per
day is
36000x2=72000
m; at the speed
of 25m/min

Count range in
rope dyeing is
(16s to 6/s) OE
and Slub both.

Page 50

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

3) ReBeaming - Reopening the

rope and
winding it on
beams so that
they

can be sized on
next step.

Technical Details
as per the
company-

13 Machines in
total for the
process

1 operator is
required per
machine

Machine setup
time is 25 min

441 combs per

machine

96000 meter/
day/ machine

Sizing To
cover the yarn
with size
material in
order to
prevent
breakage
during the
weaving
process due to
the tension it
undergoes.

Technical Details
as per the
company-

3 Machines in
total for the
process, for
regular sizing and
third for
experiments and
tests.

2 creels set at a
time lodged in the
machine, one
spare and one
running

1 operator per
machine & 2
assistant operator
per machine
required

Page 51

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Process-

Each sheet separated by the guide roll (10 sheets, 10 guide roller)

Passes through the size box/Sow box at a temp of 90C and any of
the 4 recepies mentioned as

per the requirement

64 reed, 43 water, 600gm NS powder/binder, 100kkg with starch

Anilose E starch, mutton tallow 4 kg

800gm NSC, 64+60 stretch reed ( everything else same)

1500g binder, 68+72 reed ( everything else same)

125 DN size, no binder, 48 water- 4 Count: Special Slot

Drying slot- approx. 125C temp and 4 cylinders

Accumulator- 2 accumulator beams with 120 m capacity each

Recepie (SBIT Mix)

*SBIT stands for Sulphur Bottom Indigo Topping

Chemical

Box(gpl)

Feed(gpl)

S. Black

X
170/480

Caustic
1
1.5

Page 52

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Sulphide
10
35

Xekol SNS
1.5
1.9

Setamol WL
0.57
1.9

Primasol NF
1
1.9

Ph +/- 0.2
12.45-12.70
12.55-12.85

Condition

Indigo

Sulphur

Redox +/820-860
610-660

20

Wetability

Instant to 3 seconds

Type of Bath for BOX

MIX

Dark INDIGO

Conductivity at the
start

50 o 60 ms

Page 53

Warp Dyeing

Slasher Dyeing

SLASHER DYEING

In continuous slasher / sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct

warping beams are used, instead of ball warping logs in case of
Indigo rope dyeing system. At the back end of the slasher / sheet
dyeing range, the direct warping beams are creeled. The yarns
sheet from each beam is pulled over and combined with the yarns
from the other beams so that multiple sheets of yarns can be
made.

In sheet dyeing range, the total No of required ends for a weavers

beam are dyed, dried, sized and dried simultaneously. This
continuous slasher dyeing range eliminates a few intermediate
processes of the rope dyeing, such as re-beaming, sizing.

Process Flowchart-

Pre wetting

Washing

Dyeing

Washing

Drying

Sizing

Drying

Page 54

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Machine Units for the process-

i)
Pre Wetting
Temp- 70+/- 30 C / 85C for Sulphur Bottom

Zone

Nip Pressure- 50 +/- KN

(Dyeing tank)

Dancer Pressure- 2.5 kg/cm

ii)

Dyeing
Nip pressure= 55+/-3

Temp= room temp

Dyeing capacity= 10,000 l /6 tanks

iii)
Washing
1500 l

iv)
Drying
8 cylinders

6 bar pressure in total

v)
Sizing
2 squeezing rolls and 2 immersion rolls of 15m

depth

vi)
Drying
12 cylinders in total

Cans
5 bar pressure

vii)
Accumulator
220m capacity

viii)
Compensator
Winding tension 3000/ KN

and leasing

Page 55

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Recipe

Sulphur

Indigo

Decol- 2 gpl
Septamol WS- 3 gpl

Sodium sulphite- 15 gpl

Indigo- 75 gpl

Caustic- 5 gpl
Caustic- 75 gpl

Sulphur- X gpl
Hydrosulphite- 115 gpl

Penitrol- 7 .5 gpl
Denim HS (leveling agent)- 7.5 gpl

Anti oxidant- 3 gpl

-

Machine Setting Specification- SBIT mix

Machine spec

Machine speed
28 +/- 1 meter/min

Head stock press

6+/- 1 Bar

Creel tension
110 +/- 100 N

Page 56

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Pre wet

d.p
3 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

Squeezing pressure
50
+/- 3 bar

55
+/- 3 bar

PW temp
85
+/- 4

Washing Flow rate

2000 +/- 500 lit/hr

Dyeing

D.P.
3 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

3 +/- .5 bar

Squeezing Pressure

(i) (ii)
45

+/-3 bar

Page 57

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Washing Zone

D.P. 2.5 +/- .5 2.5 +/- .5 3.0 +/- .5

Squeezing Pressure

(i)

5-0 +/-3 bar

Temp

50 +/- 4 C

Page 58

Weaving|

Introduction

WEAVING is interlacement of the warp (length-wise indigo or sulphur

dyed yarn) and the filling (grey yarn cross wise yarn) producing denim
in a variety of weights and styles.

Input
Warp Beam and Weft yarn

Output
Woven Denim Fabric

No. of Operators
6 Operators ( 1op/9mc)

No. of Machines
54

Machine make
Tsudakoma

Model
ZAX 9100

Production
95000m/day

Max. Fabric Width

71.5

Page 59

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

AUTHENTIC
DENIM

A heavy weight
fabric

Made of cotton
yarn with no yarn
characteristics

3/1 right hand

twill

100% natural
indigo dyed

Weft and warp

count 7 & 6
respectively with
36 picks per inch

TYPES OF
YARNS USED

Warp: Organic,
Conventional

Weft- Open end,

Ring spun, Slub,
Lycra, Polyester,
Poly lycra

Page 60

Finishing & Processing

Introduction

Finishing and Processing

Arvind Mill, Naroda boasts of 2 integrated finishing ranges and 2 other

finishing departments. In integrated denim finishing range, the
singeing and shrinking is carried out in a single range. This reduces the
process time, material handling, cost of production and labour cost.

Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It

takes an important role infabric properties, appearance, softness and
residual fabric shrinkage.

The department churns out 300000 meters of finished denim

cloth a day.

The main purposes of applying various finishes may be summarised as

under.

HIGH SALES APPEAL: To impart properties of attractive appearance,

supple handle, softness and good drape.

HIGH WEAR QUALITY: This refers to adequate tensile and abrasion

strengths, dimensional stability, crease recovery and freedom from
pilling.

BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT: This relates to proper heat

insulation, moisture absorption and air permeability.

SPECIAL EFFECTS: These include water-repellency, reduced

flammability, mildew and moth-proofing, anti-static behaviour and soil
release property.

Page 61

Finishing & Processing

|
Wet Finishing

1) Wet Finishing Department

Process Flow Chart:

Singeing Unit

Mercerizing Unit

Stentering Unit

Wet Finishing Unit

Singeing Unit

Craddle Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Singeing Unit

Nip Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching & Plaiting Unit

Page 62

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Unit
Specification-

Capacity: 40-50
m/min

Production: 4100045000 m/ day

15000-17000
m/shift

CNG Gas Burner

90 Flame
Interaction

3 operator per
machine

Mercerizing
Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Caustic
Impregnatorr

Stablizer Unit

Washing Unit

Acid Unit

Drying Zone

Outlet J Unit

Page 63

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Stentering Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padder

Foam Coating Unit

Cliping Unit

Chamber

CNG Fire

Blower

Heat Setting

Coling Drum

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit

Page 64

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Wet Finishing
Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padding

Nip

Width Adjusting line

Skew line

Mahalo Unit

Dry Stack Section 1

&2

Rubber Unit

Palmer Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit

Page 65

Denim Incubation Department

| Design

Team
DID is a critical unit for the innovation and creativity that Arvind mills
projects. The department has been constituted in such a manner that it
has 2 parts-

The Design Team

The Technical Team

Design Team:
The design team has a constant responsibility of re-innovating
denims.

It consists of fashion consultants from Europe and other countries

along with the textile experts and textile designers.

The team works together to create a completely different denim design.

Though it seems like innovation in design in denims has limited scope,

this group of professionals use their creativity and constant thinking

skills to come up with unprecedented designs.

They follow trends, customer feedback and various trends in the

various parts of the world, research it and come up with innovative
ideas.

These new designs are featured in fashion shows across the globe,
for top fashion experts to see and review, and hence maintain the

exclusiveness of denim produced by Arvind Mills.

Top designers like Calvin Klien, Chanel etc. and brands like
Zara, Abercrombie and Fitch, Mango, Gap and many others,
select these

designs and order them to be produced in mass.

The designs can be created by changing one of the following

characteristics of the fabric:

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TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Weave of the
fabric:

o (denim is
usually 3 x 1
twill)- variations
are made in twill
weave or by
changing the
nature of the
weave all
together. Like 2X1
or other variations

The dying
procedures
output:

(usually done with

indigo and
sulphur dyes)
the dying can give
colour effects to
the fabric.
Different
compositions of

dyes are used and

innovations and
creativity in the
use of colors,
produces more
number of
designs.
Sometimes the
weft and the warp
are of different
dyes, creating an
iridescent effect.
Though
traditionally blue
or black, many
other colours of
denims are
created

Fiber Used:

Authentic denim
uses cotton fiber,
but for design
variations cotton
blends are used.
Light weight yarns
like polyester are
used to
manufacture
denim used in
garments like
jeggings and
lighter weight
denim
requirements.
Most popular

addition to denim
fabric is Lycra for
streatchability as
that is a
prominent feature
of jeans. Most
recent type of
denim added to
the denim family
of Arvind is Excel
denim(worlds
softest denim)*.

Page 67

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Finishes
Applied:

Fabrics can be reinnovated in

terms of the type
of finish applied,
Now-a-days, there
are a variety of
finishes that can
be applied to any
fabric and same
goes for denim.
Usually
mercerization is a
process not done
for denims, as it
does not require
very soft and
smooth fibers, but
inclusion of
finished like
mercerization or
resin finish, can
completely
change the look
and feel of the
fabric. Other
aesthetic finishes,
like partial
napping or
emerization, anticrease

finish, permanent
creases by resin
finish can be
given.

*The fabric, Excel

Denims, would be
manufactured in
Arvind Groups
production facility
in Ahmedabad,
which has a
capacity of 120
million metres of
fabric per annum.
While Birla
Cellulose would be
involved in the R&D
to create the fibre
made of super
refined wood pulp,
Arvind would be
manufacturing the
fabric and selling
them both in the
domestic and
international
markets.

Page 68

Denim Incubation Department

| Design

Lines
The following are a few lines of denim that have been developed and
new

products are added to it every day:

Kato (Japanese denim line):

Kato brings in the authentic attributes of denim in collections, fabrics

mostly made on the shuttle loom and with selvedge.
ADL (Arvind Denim Lab):

The ADL line is specifically for the US brands. The s/s 2014 collection
has special attractions in the form of colour denims, indigos with
colour fills andsummer lights in excel along with the authentic core
line
Euroline (European denim line):

The Euroline is specifically for the brand needs inEurope. The s/s
2014 collection has an introduction of shades like pink, sky blue but
in a grading of color.
Metro (Indian denim line):

The metro line is designed by Arvinds in-house design team

specifically for Indian brands. The collection has the flavor of a true

Indian denim. We have also recently launched a collection in Excel

called Excel Denim in collaboration with Birla Cellulose. It will be the
worlds softest denim.

Page 69

Denim Incubation Department

Innovation Pipeline Denims

Arvinds Design department is always high on new developments

in the denim world and always has number of projects under the
innovation pipeline which are yet to be tested and finalized for the
season breaks accordingly. Few of those projects are-

SPIES

Ecru fabric with only warp dyed yarns which are chemically treated
during spinning.
NEO

Richer. Deeper denim shade for wash explorations.

KHADI

Premium line of denim. Hand spun, hand woven. Fantastic look,

drape, fall. On the principle of sustainability.
JACQUARD

Various shades of denims and fabric types brought in together for

one fabric and different look.
RING

LINEN

100% linen in 3x1 weave for better sheen, drape etc. Again a
premium line

Page 70

Denim Incubation Department |

Technical Team

The technical team of the development and new technology team

aims at developing the fabric as per customer requirements.

They have technicians and fabric experts who constantly work

together and collaborate with each of the processing units to get
the desired

output of the fabric.

Then, they calculate/concur and document the exact procedures and

processes to be followed to create the fabric exactly matching
customer

requirements.

Once the processes have been determined by the DNTG

department, they are delegated to the individual units for mass
production.

The DID DEPARTMENT at Arvind mills has a database of

more than 8000 fabrics, that have been created for all kinds
of uses. The designs

range from all kinds of usage of yarn, to differentiation based on

any of the factors mentioned above.

Customers and designers may choose out of this data base to order
in bulk, The data then goes to PPC department, that is production
Planning

and Control and the mass production of fabrics start.

Collection development is done at least one year in advance and

presented on a road show/ramp show for the buyers to see and order.

These shows contain 30-35 pieces each o the type of fabric

characteristic being showcased.

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TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

There are
basically two
ways this whole
process works:

Collection
Development

Customer Development

Technical
department takes
care of the re
production and
du-pro problems
of the ongoing
batches also.

Consistency/Repro
ducibility

Feed/Stock

Machines Used

Process Followed

All of the above

mentioned factors
are taken care by
the DID right from
the beginning of
the collection
development till
the marketing
stage.

Page 72

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

DID

Customer

Collection

Development

Development

Innovation and
Process
Upgradation

Approval/Confirm
mation from the
CEO

Testing of Physical
Properties

Washing

Spinning (Yran
slub
characteristics
etc)

Dye Stuf (dye

style, shade etc)

Weaving
(Constrction and
Selevedge)

Finishing (Process
and Sequence,
OD,
printing/coating)

Inspection

QA for TestingSampling

Comercialisation
of the fabric chart
prepared

Cost UpgradationFinal Costing

Marketting

Page 73

QUALITY ASSURANCE AND STANDARDISATION

Arvind is committed at providing the best quality of fabric to the

consumers for over 80 years now. The quality control is an integrated
process that starts when the customer gives the order, and the DNTG
develops the samples accordingly, it is checked for quality assurance
measures and compliances with customer needs. At later stages the
fabric is inspected and testing of parameters of fabric is done.

Essentially there are 2 major parts of quality assurance:

Inspection department uses 13 Kitamura Machine to find

such defects

in fabrics.

The inspection frame is aligned at an angle between 45 and

60

degrees.

Speed of fabric on inspection m/c

: 25m/min

Light
: 100 Lux

Inclination
: 57

Cost of inspection
: Rs. 0.65/mtr

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TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Arvind follows 100 percent inspection procedures. The acceptance

level of the fabric depends on the customer preferences.

There are two inspectors to keep continuous watch on fabric for

finding the defects. The 4-point grading system indicates that as
per customer requirement defects are allowable upto their levels.
We have observed that in VF brand the 4-point allowable are only 4
that is total 16 defects per 135-meter roll.

4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics and

this includes:

Size of defect
Penalty Points

2 Points

3 or less 3.1 to 6 6.1 to 9 More than 9

3 Points
Holes or Openings(Largest Dimension)
4 Points
1 or less More than 1

1 Point

2 Points
4 Points

No penalty points are recorded for minor defects.

Page 75

QUALITY ASSURANCE & STANDARDISATION |

DEFECTS

Major Defects are classified as follows:-

Major woven fabric defects such as slubs, holes, missing yarn,

conspicuous yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, and wrong yarn.

Major knitted fabric defects are mixed yarn, yarn variation,

runner, needle line, barre, slub,hole, press off.

Major dyeing or printing defects are print out, dye spots,

machine stop, color smear or shading.

Fabric containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards

is considered as

SECONDS .

At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the

production plan for the entire month and they plan their procedures
accordingly. The finishing department gives the material transfer
note to the inspection department where the material is checked for
the following defects:

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Spinning related Defects:

Warp Slub

Weft Slub

Thick end

Coarse/fine weft

Weft bar

Weaving preparatory related defects

Knot

Slack end

Ball formation

Size patches

Weaving related defects

Starting mark

Tight end

Weft float

Knot

Moir

Repaired warp

Double end

Bowing and Skewing

Page 77

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Check for skewed,

bowed and biased
fabric. For this
purpose check the
bowing and s
skewing at every
10 meters.

The bowing and

skewing are
calculated as
follows:

Bow: A bow is
an uneven
deviation of a
weft from a line
drawn
perpendicular
to

the selvedge of
the fabric.

A bow may have

different forms:

If the average
Bowing or
Skewing for a
roll is more
than 2-3%,
reject the roll.

Page 78

TESTING
Physical
Testing:
The samples
are tested
for/by:
Yarn
evenness:
USTER
TESTER 5

Statex
CSP(cascade
strength tester)
system:

Yarn count
and strength

Single yarn
tester

Instron 4465:

Tensile Test
for fabric

Elemendorf
Tearing
Strength:

Tearing
strength
check by
application of
9000g force

Chatillon
Stiffness
Tester

Resistance to
bending

Paramount
humidity
checker

For humidity
control

Stretch/elong
ation test

Weight of
1.35 kg
applied on a
designated
swatch
sample for
half an hour

Dimensional
Stability and
skew
movement
test

Shrinkage test

Measure
shrinkage
after washing
thrice +
conditioning

Ozone test
chamber by
USA inc.

Snarl indicator

Twist tester

Statex (14.4
tpi)

Page 79

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Chemical testing
Tests requested by preferred customers:

LEVIs Test method

Ph
ISO-3071

Crocking
AATCC-8 SPOT TEST SI 1005

Water Repellency
ISO 105-E01

Acid
ISO 105-E02

Alkali
ISO 105-E04

POLO method

Ph

ISO-3071

Crocking

ISO 105*12

WATER repellency

ISO 105-E01

Acid

ISO 105-E02

Alkali

ISO 105-E04

Washing

C06-AIM

SPOT TEST

SI 1005

Page 80

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Chemical
Tests
Conducted in
the lab:
Raw Material
checking like
dyeing/finishing
auxhillaries
Basic chemical.

Percentage of purity of
Hydros, Caustic acid,
peroxides etc

Purity performance of
dyes like indigo, vat
sulphur

Auhilaries like wetting

agents, sizing, finishing
etc

Stock Weight of
indigo (gpl)
Brandsbender
moisture tester
(105 degree c. for
4 hrs)

o Weighing
balance

Mettler Toledo

o Crockmeter
AATCC

o Formldehyde
content in
dye/stock bath o
Thermo orion pH
meter

o Launder-Ometer o ATLAS
crockmeter

o Genesys 10
spectrophotomete
r o Muffle
furnace

o Cintex
incubator

o EEC beaker
dyeing machine o
USA ozone test
chamber

o Flamability
tester

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TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Shade
testing:
The software used
for shade testing
is EASY MATCH.

HunterLab's
EasyMatch QC
software gives
unprecedented
flexibility to
process, display,
analyze and
report color
measurement
results.

Color
measurement and
analysis software
reports absolute
and color
difference data in
all widely used
color scales, for
various lighting
and

observing
conditions.
Pass/Fail functions
provide fast
go/no-go
decisions.

Data can be
reported
numerically in
tabular or
spreadsheet form.

Data can also be

graphically
displayed as color
difference plots,
trend plots and
spectral curves.

All results can be

viewed, stored,
printed or
imported into
your database
programs.

The software uses

a
spectrophotomete
r to record

observations, and
plots deviations
from avg and
perfect sample for
each roll.

It also provides
pass and fail
options for rolls
that deviate too
much from normal
value making it
very easy for the
operator to assure
quality and

minimize shade
variation.

It also helps in
shade wise
differentiation and
categorization of
rolls. So that the
consumer may be
able to easily
distinguish
between lots of
various

shades

Page 82

PACKAGING AND SHIPPING

* The final step is now to OK the batch/lot for shipping and send
to the packaging dept so as to put on the required details and
ship the consignment.

The details that need to be present on the packaging are:

Shipment no.

Date

Sort no

F.M.C

Rolls of approximately 135m each is sealed by polythene.

Spec. of polythene cover:Plastic bags of 23 micron used

Code no

Meters

Flags/points

Opt no.

Page 83

ACCREDITATION
S

ISO 9001:2000 by BVQI

(India) Pvt. Ltd., MumbaiIndia, for Manufacture
and Supply of Denim
Fabrics.

The ISO 9000 family of

standards is related to
quality management
systems and designed to
help organizations
ensure that they meet
the needs of customers
and other stakeholders
[1] while meeting
statutory and regulatory
requirements related to
the product.

The ISO 9001:2000

version sought to make a
radical change in
thinking by actually
placing the concept of

process management
front and center
("Process management"
was the monitoring and
optimisation of a
company's tasks and
activities, instead of just
inspection of the final
product).

IS0 14000:

Provides environment
management standards
to help organisations
minimize their negative
impact on the
environment

Environment
Management System
(EMS) mandatory
Certification carried out
by third party

Focuses on process as in
case of ISO 9000

Page 84

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Oeko-Tex
Standard 100 by
Shirley
Technologies Ltd.,
UK, for Black and
Indigo dyed denim
fabrics, black /
indigo printed
denim fabric
including

stretch denims.

The Oeko-Tex
Standard 100 is a
globally uniform
testing and
certification
system for textile
raw materials,
intermediate and
end products at
all stages of
production.

The tests for

harmful
substances
comprise
substances which
are prohibited or

regulated by law,
chemicals which
are known to be
harmful to health,
and parameters
which are
included as a
precautionary
measure to
safeguard health.

Skal
International
Standards for
Sustainable
Textile
Production by
Control Union
Certifications, The
Netherlands, for
Processing of
organic

cotton.

Global Organic
Textile
Standards,
Control Union
Certifications, The
Netherlands, for
Processing of
fibres from

certified organic
agriculture.

Levis strauss
Laboratory
Certification by
Levi Strauss &
Co., Test Methods
and conditions set
forth, Denim
Laboratory, The
Arvind Mills Ltd.

ISO-17025 NABL
National
Accreditation
Board for
Laboratories,
Delhi, India, for
Chemical &
Mechanical
disciplines of
testing.

Page 85

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Premier
Accreditation
Scheme by
Marks &
Spencer, Test
Methods and
conditions set
forth, Laboratory,
Shirting Division
Business, The
Arvind Mills

Ltd.

Liz Claiborne Intl

Ltd., Testing audit
performance,
Laboratory,
Shirting

Business Division,
The Arvind Mills
Ltd.

Labs are
certified by
DUPONT
(LYCRA).

Page 86

Project Report |

Brief

Project Title

Arvinds Involvement In Better Cotton Initiatives

Objective

Introduction to BCI
o Arvinds Implementation of BCI Norms
Quality Analysis of BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny
Brahma Cotton

Page 87

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Methodology
Secondary
research
Understanding
of BCI and its
Norms.
Primary
Research
Data Collection
Quality Analysis
of BCI bunny
Brahma Cotton
Quality Analysis
of Bunny
Brahma Cotton
Analysis of the
differences
between BCIBunny Brahma

& Bunny
Brahma Cotton
o Conclusion

Page 88

Better Cotton Initiative

|
Introduction

INTRODUCTION

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is primarily focusing on the following :

To demonstrate the inherent benefits of BC production, particularly the financial

profitability for farmers.

To reduce the impact of water and pesticide use on human and environmental health.

To improve soil health and biodiversity.

To promote Decent Work for farming communities and cotton farm workers.

To facilitate global knowledge exchange on more sustainable cotton production.

To increase the traceability along the cotton supply chain.

Page 89

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

KEY
FEATUR
ES
Producers
need to
meet the
Minimum
Productio
n Criteria
which are
the initial
core
requirem
ents, to
receive a
license to
produce
BC.

Minimum
Productio
n Criteria
(MPC) are
the
starting
point in a
cycle of
continuou
s
improvem
ent

re
qui
re
d
by
BC
I.
On
ce
MP
C
ar
e
m
et,
pr
od
uc
ers
ha
ve
to
ad
dr
es
s
Pr
og
res
s
Re
qui
re
m
en
ts.

BCI aims
to
transform
cotton
productio
n
worldwid
e by
developin
g BC as a
sustainab
le
mainstrea
m
commodit
y. There is
not BC
label on
final
products.

A major
partner
speeding
up the
productio
n of BC is
the BC
Fast Track
Program.
Leading
BCI
brands as
well as a
number
of public
sector
funders
contribut

e
to
th
e
BC
Fa
st
Tra
ck
pr
og
ra
m,
wh
ich
ch
an
nel
s
fu
nd
s
dir
ect
ly
to
far
m
er
tra
ini
ng
an
d
im
pr
ov
e
m
en

t
programs
, all
designed
around
the BC
standard.
This
allows
BCI and
its
partners
to reach
more
regions,
train
more
farmers
and
produce
more
cotton.

BCI
members
hip
focuses
on
enabling
positive
change in
the field,
supportin
g supply
creation,
building
public
support
and

de
m
on
str
ati
ng
m
ark
et
pla
ce
de
m
an
d
for
BC
as
a
m
ain
str
ea
m
co
m
m
odi
ty.

FA
CT
S&
FIG
UR
ES

490,000
Metric Tons
of

Better
Cotton was
produced
on 435,000
hectares
by 90,000
farmers in
2011-12.

BCI
members
represents
over 5% of
the worlds

Page 90

tot
al
con
su
mp
tio
n.

24
6
me
mb
ers
by
the
en
d
of
20
12.

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

The Better
Cotton System

The Production
Principles and
Criteria cannot
operate in
isolation, and
form part of the
BC System. This
BC System is
made up of the
following interdependent
components, each
as important as
the other in
making the
system effectively
deliver its
objectives:

Production
Principles and
Criteria to
provide a global
definition of BC

Farmer Support
to promote
enabling
mechanisms at a
local and global
level, working
with experienced
implementing
partners, and
stimulating
public-private
partnership funds
to implement
these
mechanisms

Farm
Assessment to
encourage
farmers to
continuously
improve, through
measuring results
and seasonal
learning cycles

Supply Chain
connecting supply
with demand
through an
identifiable bale
of 100% BC lint

Monitoring,
Evaluation and
Learning
mechanisms to

measure progress
and change and
to ensure the BC
System has the
intended impacts
on its direct
beneficiaries

Tools, guidelines
and learning
forums to
facilitate the
exchange of best
practices and
knowledge to
encourage the
scaling up of
collective action

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TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

PRODUCTION
PRINCIPLES

BC is produced by
farmers who
minimize the
harmful impact of
crop protection
practices

BC is produced by
farmers who use
water efficiently
and care for the
availability of
water

BC is produced by
farmers who care
for the health of
the soil

BC is produced by
farmers who conserve
natural habitats

BC is produced by
farmers who care
for and preserve

the quality of the

fiber

BC is produced by
farmers who
promote decent
work

CRITERIA FOR
ASSESSMENT

Pass and fail:

Producer need to
respect Better
Cotton Minimum
Production
Criteria in order to
get a license to
produce BC. The
BC system aims
at continuous
improvement. It is
not organized as a
simple pass or fail
system but goes
beyond by
integrating
elements of
capacity building,
data
management, and
progress.

What happens if
non-conformity
is found?

At least 80% of
the farmers in
Learning Group
must comply with
all relevant BC
criteria in order
for the group to
get a license to
produce BC.
Where a
systematic breach
of a Minimum
Production
Criteria is
observed, the
whole Producer
Unit may be
disqualified.

Page 92

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Does the
initiative offer
incentives for
continuous
improvement?

After meeting the

Minimum
Production
Criteria, BC
farmers have to
meet Progress
Requirements.
These progress
requirements are
presented in the

Standards Map
database as
Medium-term
requirements.

AUDIT
INFORMATION

1st, 2nd, 3rd

party
certification:

The BC assurance
system is a
combination of
self-assessment,
second party
credibility checks
and third party
verification.

Frequency of
audits:
Yearly

Validity of audit
certificate:
One year.

PRODUCTS
TRACEABLITY
ALONG THE
SUPPLY CHAIN

One of the key

elements of the
supply chain for
BC is the creation
of 100% BC

bales, meaning
that BC is
segregated from
farm to gin.

Chain of
Custody
standard

BCI will create a

100% BC bale,
and connect the
supply of BC to
demand, putting
in place a supply
chain system that
facilitates the
procurement of
BC.

USE OF LOGO
ON THE FINAL
PRODUCT?

No

Page 93

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

SUPPORT

To help farmers
adopt practices
consistent with
the BCI Production
Principles, BCI
coordinates a
program of farmer
support activities
delivered through
experienced
Implementing
Partners.

Farmers support
covers knowledge
sharing and skills
development and
effective producer
organization For
Implementing
Partners, three of
the BC System
components focus
on support. BCI
provides a Step
by Step Guide to
Implementation
for both

smallholders and
large farms and
annual workshops
that help
companies
understand and
implement the
BCI program.
Applications for
financial grants
can be submitted
twice a year
through an online
form. The funding
contribution
matches up to a
maximum of 50%
of the total
project cost.
Members receive
supply chain
support from
dedicated supply
chain
coordinators, as
well as Secretariat
and Council
support through
Caucus calls, BCI
hosted events
and webinars.

COSTS

Membership
fee: The
membership fee

is based on
member category,
size and either
annual lint cotton
consumption,
annual
turnover/income,
or

whether the
organization is
based in an OECD
Country or a nonOECD country.

Certification
costs: Third party
verification costs
are born by large
farms or by BCI in
the case of
smallholders.

Page 94

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

THE BCI
STANDARD
SYSTEM IS
APPLICABLE TO
PRODUCERS IN
THE
FOLLOWING
COUNTRIES AND
REGIONS:

ASIA China, India,

Pakistan,
Tajikistan

AFRICA Benin,
Burkina Faso,
Cameroon, Mali,
Senegal, Togo

SOUTH
AMERICA Brazil

Page 95

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Areas Covered
by BCI
standard
system:
Immediate
Requirement:

The BCI
Minimum
Production
Criteria form the
initial core
requirements for
farmers to grow
Better Cotton.
These criteria are
presented in the
Standards Map
database as
Immediate
requirements.

Medium-term
requirement:

The BCI Progress

Requirements
form an additional
set of

requirements that
farmers, after
meeting the
Minimum
Production
Criteria must
complete with a
minimum number
of additional
benchmarks within
the following 3
growing seasons,
while of course
maintaining
compliance to the

Minimum
Production
Criteria. These
progress
requirements are
presented in the
Standards Map
database as
Medium-term
requirements.

Page 96

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Page 97

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

OVERVIEW OF REQUIREMENTS:

EXPLANATION:

Critical:

The BCI Minimum Production Criteria form the initial core

requirements for farmers to grow Better Cotton. These criteria
are presented in the Standards Map database as critical
requirements.

Page 98

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Medium term:

After meeting the

Minimum
Production
Criteria, Better
Cotton farmers
have to meet
Progress
Requirements.
These progress
requirements are
presented in the
Standards Map
database as
Medium-term
requirements.

Page 99

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Page 100

BCI at Arvind Limited |

Introduction

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon

itself to develop models that make production of its most valued
and most extensively used raw material more sustainable. Which
is why, Arvind Agribusiness has initiated contract farming
projects in Akola district of Maharashtra State & Nizar Taluka in
Tapi district of Gujarat State.

Aims of the Initiative

Improve the farmer's productivity and income

Develop environmentally sustainable business models

Enhance the region's biodiversity

Promote decent work ethics

Develop a lasting social infrastructure & support system

Page 101

BCI at Arvind Limited |

Farm Projects

Detai
ls of
Proje
ct

Akol
a

Niza
r

(Mah
aras
htra)

(Gujarat)

Tot
al

Project Since

2010

2011

No. of Villages

131

58

189

Total area covered

15,000

10,400

25,400

(Ha)

No. of farmers benefitted

3,000

2,600

5,600

No. of farm family members

15,000

13,000

28,000

benefitted

Employment generated

45,000

40,000

85,000

(Farm workers)

Capacity

35,000

40,000

75,000

(Bales of 165kgs)

Cotton Type

Bunny/Brahma

Sankar-6(SUP)

Page 102

BCI at Arvind Limited |

Contract Farming

From the farm to the fashion industry, Arvind's approach to contract farming is
extensive and

thorough.

Arvind plays a key role in every single process involved in this initiative.

Infrastructure and capacity building:

This includes research, collaborations with national & international organizations,

research institutions, etc. strong HR policies, capacity building for extension activities.

Building the right team:

A team of 105 field experts including agronomists, soil scientists, pest and disease
specialist and MSW (for carrying out decent work activities) are put in place.
Training:

Highly qualified agronomists train and educate farmers about crop, nutrient, pest
and disease management, decent work ethics (no child labor, discrimination,
gender issues, etc.) and business models to improve productivity. Guidance
material on better management practices based on Better Cotton Production
criteria is developed.
Technology and skill development:

Participatory Technology Development in collaboration with project farmers helps

in finding location-specific solutions.
Monitoring:

Regular farm visits are made. Detailed farm records, soil tests, and constant
monitoring ensure a healthy crop. Validation work on better management
practices is carried out.
Elimination:

Middle men are eliminated. Farmers are also introduced to dependable farm input
suppliers.
Assured buy back:

Arvind buys the crop at market prices and guarantees Minimum Support Price. A 'Farm
Gate' payment policy ensures that payments are made within seven working days.

Page 103

BCI at Arvind Limited |

Benefits

Managing the supply chain:

Arvind Agribusiness maintains a fully tracebale supply-chain and an extensive

management information system. It is involved in establishing an effective
producer organization, the segregation of better cotton, chain of custody
procedures and engagement with ginners and other organizations.

A HOLISTIC APPROACH

TO CONTRACT
FARMING WHERE THE

ECONOMIC, SOCIAL
AND
ENVIRONMENTAL

BENEFITS NOT ONLY

CO-EXIST BUT ALSO

AUGMENT EACH

OTHER.

Page 104

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Economic
benefits

Reduced cost of
production: The
cost of production
is reduced
through the
collective
purchase of farm
inputs and better,
economical deals
from

suppliers.

Better
profitability: The
need for middle
men has been
eliminated as
Arvind ensures
that the produce is
bought at the
farmer's door step.

Better access to
affordable
finance:
Dependence on
local
moneylenders has
also been reduced
as farmers are
encouraged to
deal with reliable

financial
institutions.

Better nutrient,
pest and
disease
management:
Better
management
practices ensure
reduced use of
inputs (like
synthetic
pesticides &
fertilizers

), untimely
reducing the risk
taken in synthetic
pesticides
handling and
application.

Knowledge
sharing and

skill
development:
Farmers receive
practical
knowledge on
production
principles that
can decrease the
cost of

production and
increase
profitability.

Quality of fibre:
From soil
preparation to
harvesting and
segregating better
quality cotton at
the farm gate, our
agronomist are
involved in every

process to ensure
better quality
cotton.

Page 105

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

Environmenta
l benefits

Water
efficiency: The
learning forums
provide know how
on using water
efficiently through
micro irrigation.

Soil health:
Reduced use of
pesticides, micro
irrigation and
regular soil tests
ensure better soil
health.

Habitat
conservation:
The initiative helps
to conserve their

natural habitat by
minimizing the
harmful effects of
crop protection by
reducing use of

pesticides.

Social
benefits

Decent work
ethics: The
initiative gives
men, women and
backward classes
equal
employment and
income
opportunities
(equal and
approved wages).

Abolishing social
evils: Social and
cultural
programmes are
regularly

organized in order
to create
awareness about
child labour and
gender

discrimination.
Presently, both
the projects put
together employs
85000 farm
workers both men
and women.

Building a
healthy
community:
Internationally
recognized health
and safety
standards are
followed. The
initiative also
works towards
building a strong

social structure
based on mutual
cooperation and
understanding.

Page 106

BCI at Arvind Limited | Quality

Assessment

Quality Parameters
Akola (Maharashtra)
Nizar (Gujarat)
Length (Staple in mm)
29.0 +
29.0 +

Strength (Grams per tex)

29.0 +
29.0 +

Micronaire
3.5 - 4.3
3.7 - 4.4

Grade
Strict Middling
Strict Middling

UBI Codes

Upon Lifting
Upon Lifting

Advantage Arvind
5% HVI Results
5% HVI Results

Page 107

BCI at Arvind Limited |

Results & Analysis

Comparison of BCI-BB and BB Cotton

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0
UHM
STR
MIC
UI
SFI
Elg
(+b)
Rd
Inv%
Trash
M%
Nep

BB Cotton
4.12
5.28
8.62
81.6

7.9
6.7
8.1
76.6
1.94
23.7
9.43
31.48

BCI-BB Cotton
1.31
1.77
3.37
82.8
7
6.7
9
78.8
2.09
12.58
7.31
19.86

UHML
Upper half Mean Length
(mm)
(CV%)

Str
Strength
(g/tex)
(CV%)

MIC
Micronaire
(mg/inch)
(CV%)

UI
Uniformity Index

(Avg.)

SFI
Short Fiber Index

(Avg.)

Elg
Elongation

(Avg.)

+b

Yellowness

(Avg.)

Rd
Reflectivity

(Avg.)

Lint%
Lint Percentage

(Avg.)

Inv%
Invisible Trash Percentage

(Avg.)

Trash%
Trash Percentage

(CV%)

M%
Moisture Percentage

(CV%)

Nep
Neps Length

(CV%)

Page 108

BCI at Arvind Limited |

Conclusion

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon

itself to develop models that make production of its most valued
and most extensively used raw material i.e. Cotton more
sustainable.

Application of BCI Norms by Arvind has not only uplifted the

lifestyle of the workers under the BCI project but has also
enhanced the overall quality level of Cotton yarns since its quality
is based on the uniformity level of Cotton fibers.

The BCI Cotton has a much lower Coefficient of Variance despite

being manufactured in different areas than the normally procured
cotton from the same areas.

The uniformity index of BCI-BB is 88.8 as compared to the

uniformity index of BB i.e. 81.6 which is significantly lower than the
BCI-Cotton and affects its quality greatly.

Page 109

REFERENCE

WEB-REFERENCES
www.arvindmills.com

http://arvind-agri.com/bci.php

http://www.bettercotton.org/

www.garmento.org

www.denimology.com

www.cottoninc.com

BOOKS

Fabric science Glock and Kunj

Fabric Finishing J T Marsh

Textile Science - B P Corbman

Textile Science Tortora

Page 110