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Paris and Its Métro
PARIS AND ITS MÉTRO
A Visitor’s Guide to the City of Lights
James Read, M.A.
ZEPPO PUBLISHING ARROYO GRANDE, CA
Copyright © 2010 by Jim Read All rights reserved. Except for academic use, no part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means without permission in writing from the published. If purchased in electronic form, the purchaser may no share said electronic copy with anyone else but may make one print copy for personal use. Printed in the United States of America First Publication: January 2010
All images Copyright © 2010 by Jim Read, with the exception of the Métro map and Métro line number images, which are included under the GNU Free Documentation License. Use of these images is governed by the GNU Free Documentation License. Original Art Work © 2010 by Zetta Read.
Zeppo Publishing Company 888 Wigeon Way Arroyo Grande, CA 93420 firstname.lastname@example.org
” Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca .Dedicated to: My loving wife. who has cheerfully embraced Paris and hobbled up uncountable ancient steps and down many kilometers of cobblestone streets. the city of Paris. My colleague and friend Bob Isaacson. “We’ll always have Paris. who has allowed me to carry on a long and lustful affair with my mistress. Zetta. who has shared my love of Paris and roamed rue Mouffetard with me on cold winter days. My oldest friend and fellow traveler Terry Hall.
As usual. D’Orsay. I wondered about the names (what’s a “Place Monge”? Who or what is a “Censier Daubenton”?) Even more. let her explore a stop she didn’t have on the day’s itinerary. And that’s the thesis of this book: Paris is more than the “Ten Best Sites in Paris. our shelves are full of guidebooks that show us how to see the Louvre. but it will help you find a Paris that too often is neglected. is a book that explores the Métro for both the first-time explorer and the return visitor. A few blocks away from this was the Insitute du Monde Arabe.1 Paris by Métro Another Paris Guidebook? : There are hundreds of tour books devoted to the city of lights. What we’ve never found. You may decide that you want to stop at the Bon Marché at Sevres and pick up a premade sandwich to take with you. she’ll come to know and love Paris more intimately. So. or get off at Madeleine and visit the church (or pick up some Ladurée macarons for the trip). and then into the Roman ruins of the Arenes de Lutece. One day. and the Eiffel Tower. I had an epiphany. but as she speeds along underground towards these places. and where to find the best bargains in town. where I watched old men tossing bocci balls. Your vacation time is valuable. before leaving the hotel check this guide to see what you’ll be passing on the way. We know. Or you may want to stop at Concorde and see the ancient Egyptian obelisk that marks a spot where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were beheaded. This book won’t tell you how best to visit the Mona Lisa. I didn’t make it to the Pompidou that morning.” and as soon as a visitor realizes this. as we passed each Métro stop. soon finding my way to the lovely Jardin des Plantes. How to use this guide: . if you’re leaving your hotel on the left bank (at the Rennes stop) and heading up to Pigalle to see the Moulin Rouge. On a whim I jumped out at the Jusseau stop. I wondered what could have been found above my head. The first time visitor will still want to arrange her day around the Louvre. so use this guide to see more with only a little more expended energy and time. though. I wondered around this very untouristy slice of Paris. where best to order confit de canard. while riding the number 5 Métro from my hotel near Les Gobelins to Les Halles to see the Pompidou. but I did discover three places that are now among my favorites in Paris. which soon became on of my favorite museums in Paris.
it’s relatively easy to find a stop near most landmarks. The simplest is to buy one ticket. you will need to bring a headshot of yourself (get duplicates of your passport photo).90 per day. so unlike the London Underground. Most stations will have live ticket sellers during the day. It’s also easy to construct walks that will begin at one stop and end at another. pronouncing carnet “car-nay”. s’il vous plait”. If you plan to ride the Métro more that five times a day.60 Euro. One of the easiest is to buy a carnet or set of 10 tickets. allowing you to sightsee and then not have to backtrack. s’il vous plait” will get you the ticket. although it might work for some visitors taking the RER in from Charles de Gaulle. A simple “un billet (pronounced “bill-lay”. the Mobilis costs $5. There are a few stops that require you to produce the ticket in order to exit and occasionally RATP police will fine riders without valid tickets. If you’re planning on taking more than one or two trips on the Métro (and you should. and it’s well worth the hassle if your trip timing is right. as well. At press time. There are 380 stations along the 16 lines. A Carte Mobilis is a day pass that will allow you unlimited rides on the Métro. The Navigo Découverte is good from Monday to Sunday. There are several ticketing options when riding the Métro. and most speak some English. Note: after validating your ticket by putting it through the turnstile slot. which you then insert into the slot on the turnstile. since it’s so easy and cheap to use). However. a carnet was 1.40 euros.20 Euros. though. These tickets can be used on the Métro and on busses. The Navigo Découverte is a terrific value at 17. You can buy these from the ticket seller by asking for “un carnet. but we think it’s perfect for Paris. the Navigo Découverte is your best bet most of the time. It’s a bit more confusing to use. At press time. but it isn’t sold after Thursday of any given week. If you’re at a station without a live ticket seller. The Paris Visite pass is generally considered a poorer value. there are several options that will save you money.2 Practical Information: The Paris Métro may not be as fast as the London Underground or as clean as the Tokyo subway. . If you’re going to be using the Métro for more than 3 consecutive days. look for one of the ATM-like dispensers on the wall. which at press time was 1. you should consider one of the Métro pass options. a substantial savings over the individual ticket price. hold onto it. and you may run into some ticket sellers who will insist that it is only for Paris residents.
you can take the Métro for even short distances. In the thousands of hours that I’ve spent on the Métro.3 Will I use the pass that much? If you use the suggestions in this book. If you use more than 15 tickets during the week of the pass. and then out for dinner (1 ticket) and an evening bus ride around to look at the lights (2 tickets). near the Gare du Nord train station stop. I would have saved significantly by buying the pass. I’ve seen one attempt at theft. but problems are more likely to occur outside the stations. particularly those inside bank porticos. despite what you might read online or hear from your friends. when a pickpocket tried to take advantage of a woman who was lugging three (three!) suitcases behind her. statistically you’re much safer in the Métro than you are driving on the highway back home. but you can protect yourself by always knowing where you bags are. Rather than carry a wallet. . and the pickpocket slipped quietly away. with pickpockets being the most likely problem you will encounter. you will! If you’re like me. but an elderly man saw this and yelled loudly at the would-be criminal. The most common problems are non-violent. Do be careful using ATM’s. keeping purses and backpacks zipped up. then yes. and only carrying enough cash for the day. That’s 9 tickets. back to the hotel to freshen up and drop off purchases (1 ticket). going to a couple of sites in the afternoon like the Eiffel Tower and Place des Vosges (2 tickets). Thousands of Parisians allow their children to ride unaccompanied through the system. particularly those in Métro stations. Safety: The Métro is safe to ride. You can go off on the spur of the moment to see a site. so if you keep aware of your surroundings you should be fine. I keep a neck wallet tucked under my shirt. Just be smart. and even if I only went at this pace for five days. A young man stood behind her in the Métro car and tried to slide his hand into her open purse. Late at night the northernmost stations are a bit sketchier. There’s also a sense of freedom. and only a few of the over 1 billion people who ride the system every year have any problems at all. To put it all in perspective. going to lunch (1 ticket). Pickpockets are a part of city life. you’ll save money. Use the ones on the street. an average day in Paris finds you going to a museum in the morning (1 ticket). and when you’re tired of walking. Most of the crimes against tourists are crimes of opportunity. I don’t think the woman had any idea what was going on. going back to the hotel to freshen up (1 ticket).
as well.4 Other Information: How late is the Métro open? The first train runs at 5:30 in the morning. Keep in mind that to get where you want to go. or if it is crowded. you’ll often need to transfer to another line. Remember that the Métro goes in two directions. I like to go to the nearest station and take the Métro in whatever direction looks most promising. as well as lines you can transfer to at any given station. After the first time you use the system. It’s very much like the scanners at grocery stores. you’ll be ok! How do I find out which line to take? On the first day in Paris. spending several hours just seeing what sites are on the line. Follow the crowds and do what they do. The last train runs around 1:15 in the morning during the week and 2:15 on Friday and Saturday. stand out of the way for a few minutes until the crowd lessens. What if I don’t know what to do? If you’re nervous. How do I use the ticket? If you’ve got a single ticket. when you walk through the turnstiles to enter the Métro you will need to insert the ticket into a slot. At the front of the entrance to the train platform you will find a sign that lists all of the stations on the line. though. which can be a problem if you have an early flight. . If you’re out later. after I settle in and get my weekly pass loaded. Take this time to observe how others validate their tickets or use their Navigos. If you have the Navigo. as there are random spot checks by Métro officials. There is usually a station listing or map near the turnstiles. You’ll usually finds permanent maps in the station. I suggest keeping a separate pocket for validated tickets so that you don’t confused used from unused tickets. I use one of the free Métro maps given out at hotels or at the ticket window where you bought your tickets. you can use your Métro pass or ticket on one of the night buses (Noctilien). Afterwards. electronic chip side down. go during a less crowded time. so you can look at these signs to make sure that you’re going the right way. where it’s validated and returned to you. so you can pretend to be looking at it while you wait. over the card reader at the turnstile. you’ll wave it. Make sure to take your ticket back and save it.
church.5 Words to Know: Sortie: exit Correspondance: transfer. or store. If you need to use a restroom. There are very few of these in the Métro anymore. it’s easiest to head above ground and find a café. or this way to transfer to another line WC: Water closet. or bathroom. Hebdo/Hebdomaire: Weekly ticket Mensuel: Monthly ticket .
Monet’s Water Lillies in l’Orangerie The world’s most famous museum. across the heart of Paris. the Petit Palais The ancient Egyptian Obelisk. and for the world. continues to offer service to many of Paris’ most important destinations. the original Métro line. and wander through the Bois (or forest) de Vincennes. 1900 Don’t Miss Charles de Gaulle Etoile Arc de Triomphe. with Line 1 designed to move visitors on an east-west axis through the city. One could conceivably visit most of Paris through this line alone. Today Line 1 is undergoing a change to become an automated. with swimming events occurring in the Seine! Talking films were introduced to the world. the Grand Palais. Visit a medieval chateau. The Louvre Palais Royal Musée du Louvre Recommended Day Trip Head out to Chateau de Vincennes at the eastern edge of Paris for a day that few tourists experience. Today Line 1 serves a similar function. Pont Alexandre and Gare d’Orsay were opened for the exhibition. . and now iconic structures like the Grand Palais. Champs Elysée Clemenceau Concorde The gorgeous Pont Alexandre. ending in the ultramodern La Défense business section on the western boundary of Paris. Petit Palais. taking visitors and Parisians from the Medieval castle at Vincennes. driverless line. Put in service July 19. The second modern Olympic Games were held in Paris. a charming village. The Exhibition also marked the opening of the Paris Métro. wander down the Champs Elysée The Original Line The Exhbition Universelle or World’s Fair of 1900 was a watershed event for Paris.6 Métro Line 1 Line 1.
Metro Stop La Défense Esplanade de la Défense Pont de Neuilly Les Sablons Port Maillot Argentine Ch. D. Gaulle-Étoile Georges V FDR Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau Stars 2 1 1 2 1 1 5 1 2 4 Destinations Grand Arche, Quartre Temps Shopping Mall Agam Fountain View of the two arches Jardin d’Acclimation, Bois de Boulogne Shopping, Beauvais shuttle, Kitty O’Shea’s, street market Arc de Triomphe, Champs Élysée Champs Élysée Champs Élysée, Theatre du Rond-Point, street market Pont Alexandre III, Grand Palais, Petit Palais, various statues Obelisk, Place de la Concorde, Musée de l’Orangerie (Monet’s Water Lilies) Tuileries gardens, Louvre, Galerie du Jeu de Paume Louvre, Museum of Decorative Arts Church of Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois, shopping Huge underground mall, Fountain of the Innocents City Hall, BHV Department store, Tour St. Jacques, church of St. Gervais-St. Protais Les Marais, Place des Vosges, Picasso Museum, Carnavalet Museum (museum of the city of Paris), Congnacq-Jay Museum, Maison Victor Hugo, church of St. Paul-St. Louis Juillet Column, Bastille Opera, rue de Lappe, street market Métro museum, le Train Bleu restaurant, train station Street market Picpus cemetery, Place de la Nation 5, 8 Connections RER A
2, 6, RER A
Tuileries Palais Royal-Louvre Louvre-Rivoli Chatelet Hotel de Ville
5 5 2 3 3
4, 7, 11, 14, RER A, B, D 11
Gare de Lyon Reuilly-Diderot Nation Porte de Vincennes Saint-Mandé-Tourelle Bérault Chateau de Vincennes
2 1 2 1 1 1 4
14, RER A & D 8
Chateau de Vincennes, Bois de Vincennes
La Défense/Grande Arche & Esplanade de la Défense
★★ The arch most visitors miss
Things to See
✔ the Grande Arche ✔Quartre Temps shopping mall ✔the Christmas market (in December)
If you go…
• The métro ride is covered by a standard ticket or your Navigo pass • The RER A line is NOT covered by a standard ticket. Tourists often get stuck at the RER exit because they didn’t buy a ticket to travel to this zone • Lovers of baffling modern art should seek out the Agam Fountain in the square outside the Esplanade exit • Try hiking a bit east of the Arche for a view of the two arches aligned
When the Eiffel Tower was finished in 1889, much of Paris despised the monument and wanted it to be torn down. It barely survived several such efforts. Today, it’s hard to image Paris without the Eiffel Tower, and one can’t help but wonder if the same fate will befall the Grande Arche de la Défense. Throughout its modern history, Paris has had the unenviable task of protecting its historical architecture and layout, while at the same time continuing to function as one of the business capitals of the world. Rather than mix the old architecture with the new (think of London with its modern buildings like the Gherkin rising above Wren churches), Paris has tried to build around the
The ride to the top of the Grande Arche is not covered by the museum pass.
peripheral of the city. President François Mitterand was the force behind projects like Défense and the area around the Mitterand library in the 12th. While this movement has effectively created a place for big business in Paris, the area around Défense is currently sneered at by the majority of Parisians. Despite the sneers, the Grande Arche is worth seeing, especially for the repeat visitor to Paris. It’s on an axis with the Arc de Triomphe and is meant to compliment Napoleon’s monument to war, although the architect of the Grande Arche meant his work to be a monument to humanity. The Grande Arche is an imposing monument, and visiting the top via the vertiginous elevator ride will reward you with sweeping vistas of all of Paris. On a warm afternoon, consider climbing the steep steps in front and grabbing a seat. Here you can people watch, with all of Paris serving as the background. Although the skyscrapers and modern buildings offer little to the casual tourist beyond the Arche, if you come out this way, it’s worthwhile visiting the mall in the Métro station, la Quatre Temps, if you enjoy shopping. I often like to stop at the penultimate Métro station, the Esplanade de la Défense, and walk towards the Arche. The views are more expansive, and it’s easier to photograph from this more distant vantage point. In December Paris’ largest Christmas market is located between the stops, and is well worth seeking out. Often visitors complain about the small, expensive and cramped hotel rooms they get in the center of Paris. If you find telephone booth sized elevators (and matching showers) unsuitable, you may want to consider getting a hotel room in this area. You can often find a modern hotel room for much less out in the Défense area, although the tradeoff is that you are a lengthy Métro ride away from most of the sites you’ll want to visit. La Défense went directly from being futuristic to being passé without ever seeming like a normal feature of the present.
Pont de Neuilly
★ Small oasis on a busy block
History of the Wallace Fountain
Between the Arches
The bridge (or pont) in the name of the stop is several blocks to the west, and walking several blocks on the busy and nondescript Avenue de Madrid isn’t the best use of your Paris time. However, photographers or those who love seemingly incongruous public squares might consider popping up and spending ten minutes in the small park above the Métro stop. The park is located roughly midway between the two arches, so it’s a good place for photographs. There’s a nice Wallace Fountain, a lovely statue of Sisyphus rolling his rock uphill towards Defense, and little else to recommend the neighborhood. You could leave from here and walk downhill towards the Jardin de Acclimation (see les Sablons Métro stop), but there are more pleasant places to stroll throughout the city. However, if you go a few blocks off Madrid you can recapture a bit of the feel of when the area was a small village outside the gates of Paris. There’s a lovely cemetery five minutes away.
One of the indelible and seemingly ubiquitous signs of Paris is the Wallace Fountain. They are named after Sir Richard Wallace, an English philanthropist who came to Parisian’s aid after much of the potable water infrastructure was destroyed in the Franco-Prussian war. There are several different models of the fountain scattered throughout Paris, but the most famous one features four female figures holding a dolphin-decorated dome aloft. Parisians still use these fountains, particularly during the summer months.
Les Sabons/Jardin d’Acclimation
★★ Good stop for children
History Gardens and an Amusement Park
Whizzing through stations underground, I used to find myself wondering about the exotic sounding names. Les Sablons may sound exotic, but it actually means a dry, barren, sandy place, like a desert. This sandy spot outside of Paris was the site of France’s first potato farm. While not exactly exotic, try to imagine your moules without frites!
If you have young children who need a break from Mona Lisa and grey gothic churches, the Jardin d’Acclimation is a perfect antidote. This amusement park offers rides, a miniature golf course, a miniature train, puppet shows, and various other amusements. Whereas older children may prefer Villette (See Métro stop Porte de Pantin on Line 5), this is a perfect and affordable half-day excursion for younger kids. Adults, too, may find this much more charming than Disneyland Paris. The other reason to exit here would be to visit the Bois de Boulogne. One of the two large forests bracketing Paris (see Bois Vincennes on line 1 for the other), Boulogne offers a horse racetrack, a botanical garden, picnic grounds, and, at night, Paris’ primary red-light district. Seriously, avoid this area at night. During the day, though, it’s a wonderful escape if you need to get away from the hustle and bustle of the downtown area. There’s a Vélib’ rack as you enter the park, and bicycling through the woods on a nice day makes for an ideal outing (but get there early, as the bikes tend to get used quite a bit). The Vélib’ system allows one to cheaply rent bikes for short periods of time, which is great for seeing the park.
★ Paris Convention Center
Things to See
A Pause before Paris
✔ Kitty O’Shea’s ✔Bois de Boulogne
This low-key area is probably best known to Parisians for being the site of the Palais des Congress, a major convention center in Paris. Many tourists, though, will know the area because it’s where the Ryan Air bus drops you off if you’re coming in on a cheap flight to Beauvais. You can find some good deals on hotels in this rather comfortable neighborhood, but there really isn’t a lot to see. Fans of James Joyce or Irish pubs may want to stop off for a Guinness at Kitty O’Shea’s on 10 rue des Capucines. The pub is decorated with a series of stained glass windows featuring scenes from Joyce’s Ulysses, and the friendly atmosphere provides a good opportunity to revive after the long bus ride in from Beauvais or a final touch of Paris before heading off to the sterile area around Defense. An expensive shopping gallery can be found above the Métro. Just to the west of the Métro stop is the beginning of the Bois de Boulogne. If you are coming in from a Beauvais flight and Métro line 1 doesn’t go near your hotel, you might want to check the map for RER C, which provides a quick link to the area around St. Michel and the D’Orsay. If you’re staying in this area, I recommend the Amiral Bruix street market, located just a few blocks down Boulevard Bruix. The market is open on Wednesday and Saturday.
What The Heck Is A Porte?
In Parisian place names, the word Porte general refers to a place where the gated city opened to the countryside, and is comparable to the English word “gate,” like Aldgate in London. Porte Maillot was the gated entrance to the king’s forest, the Bois de Boulogne, and was designed to keep poachers from shooting the king’s game.
★ A nice neighborhood just above the Champs Élysée and the Arc
Things to See
This is a nice, upscale neighborhood. There’s a nice view here of the nearby Arc de Triomphe, and there are several embassies in the area, but most tourists won’t be stopping here.
✔ View of the Arc
The original name of this stop was rue Obligado, but after WWII the South American country of Argentina stepped in to help France. Because much of her means of production were decimated in the war, France depended upon meat and grain from Argentina while it rebuilt the countryside.
In a Station of the Metro The apparition of these faces in the crowd; Petals on a wet, black bough. Ezra Pound
Charles de Gaulle/Etoile
★★★★★ MUST SEE !
Things to See
A must see
✔ View from the top of the Arc ✔Champs Élysée History
This is one of those stops that everyone should make on a first trip to Paris, although returning visitors often choose to skip the area. Along with the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame and Montmartre, this is the Paris that the world knows.
Not only does the Arc de Triomphe’s axis run through the heart of Paris, but the history of the city runs through the Arc as well. Originally commissioned by Napoleon to celebrate his victory at Austerlitz, the Arc has become the center of French patriotism. Napoleon’s body passed under the Arc, and Victor Hugo’s funeral service took place before throngs of crowds surrounding the monument. In WWII the Nazi army marched triumphantly through the Arc after capturing Paris, as did the Allied Forces when they retook the city. Etoile is French for star, denoting the star pattern of streets surrounding Place Charles de Gaulle.
The Arc de Triomphe stands in the center of the incredibly busy Place Charles de Gaulle. It was designed to sit on an axis that unites Place de la Concorde, La Défense, and the Louvre. A dozen major roads feed into the chaotic circle of traffic that seems to navigate wildly around the Arc. Luckily, there is an underpass that provides pedestrian access to the Arc. Outside the Arc you’ll find a series of sculptures and monuments, including the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from WWI. Be sure to explore below the Arc before heading to the top.
The visit to the top of the Arc is covered by the museum pass.
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Most visitors climb the winding staircase and 284 stairs to the top of the monument, but if you’re unable to make the climb there is elevator access. From the top of the monument you have an unparalleled view of Paris. I can stand on the roof for hours watching the traffic circle around the monument. There are no visible lanes, and catastrophic accidents always appear imminent, although I’ve never seen so much as a fender bender. Be sure to allow time to visit the museum at the top of the monument either before or after making your way to the roof. If you visit before, it will give you time to catch your breath if you just walked up the stairs. After leaving the Arc, most visitors will want to explore the Champs Élysées, Paris’ most famous shopping avenue. The Champs isn’t as glamorous as it once was, as McDonald’s now stands nearby the temples of haute couture, but there’s still enough magic left to make this a unique shopping area. The avenue runs downhill from the Arc, so it’s an easy stroll if you start from here. There are a number of movie theaters if you are looking for something to do on a hot or rainy day, and children (and car lovers) are fascinated by the concept cars on display at Le Rendez-Vous Toyota at number 79. If you wander down the Champs, you can choose to take the long route and exit at the Franklin Roosevelt Métro or you can opt out early by taking the Georges V Métro stop. Either way, odds are that you’ll find yourself on the Champs at some point in your visit.
The Arc de Triomphe Shopping on the Champs Élysée Concept cars at Le RendezVous Toyota
There is little reason to get off at this stop, unless you have a specific restaurant or business that you need to visit, or are lucky enough to be staying at the Four Seasons. The area is near the “Golden Triangle” or shopping, Paris’ home of exclusive, upscale shopping centered around Avenue Montaigne, where you’ll find Dior, Chanel and other temples of shopping. Otherwise, most tourists who want to see the Champs should get of at Charles de Gaulle/Etoile, while those who want to visit the Grand Palais and Petit Palais should exit at Clemenceau.
Franklin D. Roosevelt
Although this is a beautiful area, there is little to compel stopping here. While many visitors exit here, this really isn’t the best stop if you want to explore either upper Champs Elysée or the museums around Clemenceau. East of the stop is the historical and famous theater district around the Rond Point and Avenue Gabriel, including the famous Theatre du Rond-Point. This area is quite beautiful, if lacking major tourist destinations, and you may want to consider strolling from the exit east to the next stop, Champs Elysée-Clemenceau.
One of the joys of Paris is discovering the different street markets scattered across the capital. From Thursday through Sunday a stamp, post card, and paper ephemera market takes place at the Marché Rond-Point des Champs Elysé.
Continued on page 2
★★★★ MUST SEE !
Things to See
✔ Pont Alexandre III ✔Grand Palais ✔Petit Palais
Georges Clemenceau may have studied to become a doctor, but history will remember him as a statesman whose career spanned the chaos of the Third Republic to the horrors of WWI. He started several newspapers, denounced the Dreyfuss Affair, and twice served as Prime Minister of France.
The Most Beautiful Bridge in Paris
The Pont Alexandre III, which lies just south of this stop, is a must see. The bridge, the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais were all built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900, giving this area a truly Art Nouveau stamp. Seemingly every inch of the bridge is designed to show off, from the gilt-covered statues to the bronze allegorical and mythological figures, including cherubs and nymphs. Even if you aren’t interested in visiting the museums now housed in the two palaces on the north side of the bridge, it’s still well worth your effort to stop and walk across the bridge. The bridge was named, by the way, for the Tsar of Russia, and was meant to cement the friendship between the two nations.
Of the two “palais,” the Grand Palais tends to get the more arresting art exhibitions. It’s an imposing building, and it carries on its original purpose of housing temporary exhibitions. Both the interior and the exterior are stunning. Even if you’re not interested in whatever temporary exhibition might be showing, it’s worth going into the Grand Palais just to explore features like the grand staircase. The Petit Palais houses a permanent collection of beaux arts, as well as temporary collections. I’m afraid that its wonderful collection of both paintings and other decorative arts is often lost in the city’s riches. Odds are that the first time visitor won’t make it here, but if you’re a repeat visitor, put this one on your list of museums worth spending an hour or two seeing. There are also a number of statues in the area, including ones of Clemenceau (see history above) and Winston Churchill.
★★★★★ MUST SEE !
Things to See
West of the Louvre
✔ Tuileries ✔Place de la Concorde ✔Musée de l’Orangerie ✔Galierie Nationale Jeu de Paume History
If you’ve only seen the Louvre from inside, walking between these two Métro stops will give you a better feel for this essential Paris space. Begin at the Place de la Concorde, a busy square that offers views straight up the Champs Elysee, across the Seine to the Palais Bourbon, north to the Madeleine church, and east towards the Louvre (where you’ll walk). At the center of this square is the oldest monument in Paris, an Egyptian obelisk that’s over 3000 years old. It once stood in front of the Temple of Luxor, but was a gift of the Egyptian government to France. The gilt hieroglyphics and ornate fountain surrounding the monument are impressive, particularly during the winter when a ferris wheel offers beautiful evening views of the obelisk and the surrounding area.
Place de la Concorde has (so far) had three name changes. Until the Revolution it was Place Louis XV, but was renamed Place de la Révolution and a guillotine was placed in the square.
The Orangerie & the Jeu de Paume are covered by the museum pass.
After exploring the area around the square, there are two museums worth visiting before plunging into the Tuileries garden. The most impressive is the l’Orangerie. Recently reopened after a lengthy renovation, the museum displays eight of the largest of Monet’s Water Lillies. The small building itself was the orangery for the royal palace and can be visited rather quickly—if there isn’t a long line to get in. You can also visit the Jeu de Paume museum of contemporary art on the northern end of the entry to the Tuileries. After visiting the museums, take a leisurely stroll through the garden of the Tuileries. There was once a royal palace on these grounds, one that linked up with the Louvre, but it didn’t survive the 1871 Paris Commune. After being burned down, the area was turned into a sculpture garden. On beautiful days it seems like all of Paris finds its way for a stroll through the lovely gardens.
The Obelisk The statues in the Tuileries Monet’s stunning series of water lilies in the l’Orangerie.
Make sure to stop and watch the children race their boats in the small pond as you work your way towards the Louvre. As you approach I.M. Pei’s famous pyramids, be sure to visit Naploeon’s Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, aligned with the larger Arc de Triomphe via the Axe historique, or historical axis linking the Louvre with the Arc de Triomphe and the Arc de la Defense.
Palais Royal-Musee du Louvre
★★★★★ MUST SEE !
Things to See
✔ Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, Venus de Milo ✔Museum of Decorative Arts History
Built by the powerful Cardinal Richelieu between 1629 and 1633 (hence the Richelieu Wing in the museum), the “royal” part of its name came about when Louis XIII and then the young Louis XIV lived here—before Louis XIV moved the court to Versailles. A series of Dukes inhabited the palace until the start of the French Revolution.
Arguably the most famous museum in the world, the Louvre has the ability to overwhelm even the most eager art lover. Children and unwilling travel companions can burn out much more quickly, so any visitor should have a strategy when exploring the vast collections that the Louvre has to offer. Some choose to do the “greatest hits” only, making a bee line to crowd in front of the Mona Lisa. Others feel a cultural obligation to shuffle in front of paintings until they fall into a stupor. How you choose to visit the Louvre should depend upon your own interests and stamina. There’s art here for whatever you happen to enjoy, including ancient Egyptian, Roman, Greek and Etruscan art.
The Louvre and the Museum of Decorative Arts are covered by the museum pass
as well as the other stores and arcades in the area. Standing outside in the Louvre courtyard. Antique lovers will love the shopping available at the Louvre des Antiquaires. There’s another interesting museum. particularly when the Louvre is packed). and the exit funnels you right into the Louvre shopping area. you get a much better sense of what the Palace was like before it was turned into a museum. and the role that the Tuileries Garden continues to play in Parisian life. The Métro stop has been designed using copies of works found in the museum. where the original walls of the palace have been excavated. From the moment you get out of the Métro train. the Musée des Arts Decoratifs. To make the most out of your visit. make sure to visit the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel.fr/llv/activite/liste_parcours. if you don’t go above ground you’ll miss several key sites. with its collection of furniture. located just across from the Louvre. you might consider taking a guided tour or following one of the thematic trails that the staff have created to help the bewildered visitor make sense out of the collection. and too many great paintings are missed if you focus just on Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. and which faces the unenviable task of attracting visitors already weary of museums (which is a good reason to visit this overlooked gem of a museum.M.jsp can help you to plan your trip in advance. The collection of renaissance art is marvelous. However. Pei’s famous inverted pyramid (usually surrounded by The Da Vinci Code fans getting their pictures taken). Before leaving the Louvre area. you are engulfed in the Louvre experience.22 History buffs should visit the basement of the Louvre. ceramics and tapestries. Exploring http://www. Napoleon had the monument built to commemorate his military victories. past the bottom of I. and it stands on the historical axis that connects to the Arc de Triomphe and the Grand Arche in Défense. Metr2 .louvre.
and then walk up the Rue de Rivoli to the Louvre. In recent times. despite its impressive exterior and storied history as the church that served the Louvre when it was a palace. . The church of Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois (at 2. History The St. most visitors shouldn’t take this stop if they are headed to the Louvre. 1572. and thousands of Protestants were in town to celebrate the nuptials. it was a prearranged sign for Catholics to begin killing Protestants by the thousand in what became known as the St. was supposed to marry the Protestant Henry of Navarre. but his mother. When the bell tower rang on the night of August 23. This stop is well east of the entrance to the museum. At least 5000 people were murdered. Catherine de Medici. is thought to have been behind the plot. Place du Louvre). However. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre. The ineffective King Charles IX probably had nothing to do with the massacre. the church Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois. if one could easily stop here and visit the primary draw of this stop. That week Marguerite de Valois. the daughter of Catherine de Medici. the church hosted the marriage of basketball star Tony Parker and American actress Eva Longoria. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre was probably caused by a wedding.23 ★★ Louvre-Rivoli ★★ Worth a look Things to See An historic church ✔ Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois ✔Shopping on Rue de Rivoli Despite the name. Despite this horrible history. is best known for a dark moment in its past. the church itself features some incredible works of art and is worth a visit for anyone who loves French history or church architecture.
o. too often a visitor’s first contact with these stations comes when she takes the RER into town from the airport and tries to transfer to another Métro line at Les Halles-Chatelet. on the marquee. When you leave the underground. and choose an American or British film. A massive and confusing nexus. Beyond the variety of mall shopping underground. For this reason. Five Métro lines and three RER lines converge in these stations. there’s also a massive cinema multiplex. look for v. Continuing north will lead you to the Pompidou Museum of Modern Art—see suggested walk below. and the tired. This 16th century fountain by Jean Goujon marks the boundary of the former Cimitiere des Saint-Innocents. From the 12th century until the 1960s. Les Halles was the central food market in Paris. one that often hosts short but intense protests. Chatelet) has served as the bustling center of Parisian business. I always suggest making the initial connection elsewhere. the cemetery was dug up and the remains moved to the Catacombs (see DenfertRochereau. ✔ Fountain of the Innocents ✔Central Paris Shopping Mall History For nearly a thousand years. If you find your way above ground. Les Halles has served as the bustling center for Parisian business. there are several interesting sites scattered among the McDonald’s and Nike stores that make up most of the area. even if it means one has to make two connections to get to her apartment or hotel. lines 4 and 6) . Since the middle of the 16th century the Fontaine des Innocents has stood in the center of a bustling square. Today. if one returns to this area refreshed and ready to tackle the beast.24 ★★ Les Halles-Chatelet ★★★ Unavoidable Things to See The Center of Paris For nearly a thousand years Les Halles (and its connected station. bewildered traveler is often left in a state of panic. Beginning in the 18th century. a vast underground shopping complex continues the tradition of commerce in the area. she’ll find that there is much to do in the area. indicating that the film is in its original language. However. If you don’t speak French. you’ll most likely end up in the large square that contains the Fontaine des Innocents.
if you arrive on the hour. Right behind the Pompidou you can connect with line 11 and station Rambuteau. important church was completed in 1624. or continue your excursion at the Museum of the Art and History of Judaism or the Museum of Dolls (Poupee]. you can begin a journey up the charming market street of Rue Montorgueil. Don’t Miss: St. Either before or after visiting Rue Montorgueil. Some of the best patisseries and bakeries in Paris can be found on the street. watch the l’Horloge with its mechanical show. This large. The area around Pompidou also has many cafes and restaurants. visit the Church of Saint-Merri. watch the colorful Stravinsky fountain. a good half-day excursion can be planned around first shopping in Les Halles and then walking to the Pompidou Museum.25 Beginning just to the east of the entrance to Sainte-Eustache. and. Look for L’escargot at number 38. See Line 11/Rambuteau for a more detailed explanation. A monument near the altar marks where the powerful Cardinal Richelieu is buried. Eustache The statue L’écoute The street market on Rue Montorgueil Suggested Activity If you don’t choose to explore Rue Montorgueil. with the golden snail atop the marquee. How can you be expected to govern a nation that has 246 different kinds of cheese? Charles De Gaulle Metr2 . A ten minute walk up Montorgueil leads to the Sentier station on Line 3 if you don’t want to backtrack. you can also tour Brancusi’s artist studio. be sure to visit SainteEustache. Along with the museum itself. and there are restaurants for all tastes and budgets.
Gervais et St. On the east side of the building is the entrance to the various exhibits that are put on in the Hotel de Ville. The Hotel de Ville rises up above the large. Continuing on to Chatelet will allow you to return to the Métro. The area was also a popular place for public executions. Inside is an impressive gothic church that seems architecturally in contradiction to the façade. one of the oldest in Paris. and shoppers queuing up to enter the BHV department store. Jacques History The area around Paris’ city hall isn’t necessarily worth seeking out on its own right. Jacques rising up over the Chatelet area and Métro stop. A greve was a sloping riverbank. In WWI a German bomb hit the church during a Good Friday service. is worth seeking out. open on Wednesday afternoons and Saturdays. which has undergone recent renovations. the area around Hotel de Ville was a center of Parisian activity. Protais ✔the Tour St. seemingly encouraging excuses to fill the square. Long before it was the city hall of Paris. The area has been the center of many riots and protests during the ensuing centuries. the Baudoyer street market. but today they’re more likely to include winter time ice skating or temporary gardens in the spring. open square. which is what this area was in the 12th century. On the east side of the square one can see the Tour St. . For the many tourists staying within walking distance of this area. but so many visitors find themselves here anyway that it’s worth exploring the sites here.26 ★★ Hotel de Ville ★★★ Worth a quick visit Things to See City Hall ✔ Hotel de Ville ✔Winter skating rink ✔BHV department store ✔St. Gervais-St. and facing this entrance is the oddly Romanesque front of the church St. which led to the terms to grieve and grievance becoming synonymous with labor action. Protais. The Tour. Throughout history these excuses have often included civil protest. is all that’s left of a massive gothic church that once stood in the area. killing over a hundred parishioners. The place had at one time been known as the Place de Greve.
Its déclassé status meant that it remained largely unblemished until 1969 when it was declared an historical district. budget at least one full day to devote to wandering the streets of Le Marais. So many first time tourists tick off the “must sees. but they somehow miss this most Parisian of neighborhoods. after which the area fell into benign neglect. too. like Notre Dame (although the Place des Vosges can easily steal your heart away). Paul-St. Today the area scrupulously works to maintain its cultural uniqueness. Perhaps it’s because so many guidebooks begin by announcing that marais means swamp. Although it has everything one pictures as the Paris of our dreams—winding streets. Then. Whatever else you do. the Louvre. while the permanent collections at the Congnacq-Jay and Carnavalet are free.” the Eiffel Tower. and the Champs Elysée.27 ★★ Saint-Paul (Le Marais) ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See Quintessential Paris ✔ Place des Vosges ✔A Great Open Air Market ✔Musée Picasso ✔Musée Carnavalet ✔Musée Cognacq-Jay ✔Church St. Notre Dame. Louis ✔Rue des Rosiers ✔Maison de Victor Hugo ✔Hotel de Sully The Victor Hugo house and Picasso Museum are both covered by the Paris Museum Pass. charming bistros. which is hardly an enticing beginning. the neighborhood lacks a singular towering building. Many of the large aristocratic mansions still are standing throughout the district. A series of lucky events saved most of the area from Haussmann in the 19th century. . Montmartre. Much of the architecture of the district reflects the fact that the area was the area for those with money in the 16th century. pre-Hausmann architecture—Le Marais has a bit of a advertising problem. There’s also the uncharacteristic scarcity of Métro stations—only one main stop serves an abundance of major sites.
the permanent collections of both the Cognacq-Jay and the Carnavalet are free. as well as to modern France. including furniture and china. while foodies have a large selection of restaurants from which to choose. The aesthetic contradiction between Picasso’s modern art and the baroque ornateness of the Cognacq-Jay may be jarring.28 These large mansions are knows as “hotels”. Shoppers love the varied selection of boutiques and specialty stores. Every time I get lost in the Marais. Wandering through the narrow streets always seems to reveal new finds each time. which is a blessing in this area. which just denotes their size and scope. One street of note is the rue des Rosiers in the heart of Jewish Paris. Metr2 . There’s a wealth of items devoted to the French Revolution. which houses an amazing collection of 18th century art and decorations. In the nearby Musée Cognacq-Jay you can explore the Hotel Donon. but it reflects the richness that the area has to offer. Even those who are not Picasso fans will enjoy seeing the inside of one of the great 17th century hotels. For those on a budget. This museum takes one through the history of the city. donated by his estate to settle an outstanding tax bill. There’s a lot more to the Marais than just museums. The museum even includes Marcel Proust’s bedroom. The third major museum here is the Carnavalet. though. which is the museum of the city of Paris. I end up finding something new. from pre-Roman era canoes through to the present. The streets of the Marais are so winding and irregular that it’s easy to get lost. Famous hotels in les Marais include Hotel de Sully and Hotel de Sens. which is situated in the Hotel Salé. a busy street where restaurants and bakeries call out to compete for your attention. Picasso fans shouldn’t miss the Musée Picasso. The museum includes three floors of Picasso’s work. Several spectacular museums can be found in les Marais.
Other things to see: A synagogue designed by Hector Guimard. though. the designer of the Paris Métro station. as the area is the site where Henry II died in a jousting accident in 1559. Louis Metr3 . whose house at No. along with Place Dauphine on the ile St. at 10. visiting his former home allows you to see firsthand what life was like living in this lovely little square. In the 17th century this gorgeous square was the center of aristocratic Paris (indeed. The history of the site goes back even further. where you can walk through the courtyard of the Hotel du Sully. Louis. rue Pavée The National Archives in Hotel du Rohan The church Notre Dame des Blancs Manteaux The church St. 21) and Victor Hugo. Throughout history many famous people have lived on the square. Paul-St.29 Perhaps the “must see” spot in the area. a place where one could stroll under the cover of arcades amongs the well to do. Even if you aren’t a fan of the author of The Hunchback of Notre Dame. including Cardinal Richelieu (in No. try to either enter or leave Place des Vosges through the southwest corner. If possible. is the Place des Vosges. it’s one of the two earliest public squares in Paris).6 has been turned into a museum (now without admission fee!).
The storming of the Bastille is an iconic event. the French equivalent of the Boston Tea Party. Comte de Solages. and a few stones in the Square Henri Galli near the Sully-Morland stop on line 7. The Bastille itself was a large prison. although at the time of the storming in held only seven prisoners. which honors both the French Revolution and the rebellion of 1830. as young people flood the area’s restaurants. just to the west of Bastille in the Rue de Lappe. the modern Bastille Opera house towers over area. In the center of the roundabout is the Colonne de Juillet. a narrow alley of bars and restaurants that attracts an evening crowd of (usually) low-key partiers. The bustling area around the Bastille really comes to life at night. Instead. but in reality the revolutionaries were after the storehouse of weapons held inside. Market Area A bustling street market occurs on Boulevard Richard Lenoir on Thursdays and Sundays. In popular lore the Bastille was stormed because rebels were imprisoned there. Make sure to notice the how the Métro stop décor pays homage to the Revolution.30 ★★ Bastille ★★ A major square Things to See Site of a Revolutionary Spark ✔ Colonne de Juillet and the Spirit of Freedom ✔Opera House ✔Rue de Lappe History Visitors who come to the busy Place de la Bastille hoping to find history will be disappointed. . For those in search of an evening drink. including the aristocrat. The only trace of the original prison is an outline of the building on the pavement where it once stood. The event precipitated the French Revolution. cafes and movie theaters.
but Gare de Lyon is a rather charming train station that may be worth a visit even if you’re not one of the hoard heading towards the Swiss. There are also several area attractions worth your visit. The station houses a truly gourmet restaurant. . but it usually includes antique Métro cars. To begin with. There is no cost to visit. Gare d’Orsay. but they didn’t question me when I dined in the cafeteria. Nearby at 109/113 avenue Daumesnil is the Petit Musée de l’Argenterie for those interested in silver tableware. French or Italian Alps. Paris’ exposition of 1900 led to the development of the Paris Métro system (or at least the first line). train stations (gares in French) are places one tries to go through as quickly as possible. as well as the Gare de Lyon. and the stunning Pont Alexandre. There’s also a take away version. It’s a big. but don’t expect to find any signage to help make visiting easier. The Grand and Petit Palais. Bean’s Holiday and La Femme Nikita and is worth visiting for a meal even if you’re not traveling.31 ★★ Gare de Lyon ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Line 13 Things to See A better train station ✔ Exterior of station ✔Le Train Bleu ✔Métro Museum and Musée de l’Argenterie History In general. The Universal Exposition of 1900 Today it’s easy to forget the role that international expositions and world fairs played in showcasing cities and leading to innovation. Paris also hosted the 1900 Summer Olympics during the exposition. There’s also a very cheap cafeteria upstairs. I’m not sure if everyone is allowed to eat there. It was built for the World Exposition of 1900 (also the impetus for the Métro system). If you’re a Métro afficianado. visit the Maison de Métro at 189 Rue de Bercy. The exhibition varies. the station is a gorgeous example of public architecture. and you can also pick up detailed Métro maps. confusing building that houses the Métro operations center. Le Petite Train Bleu for those who want to pick up something to take on the train. Le Train Bleu which has been featured in movies like Mr. but for visitors there is an open exhibition of Métro artifacts.
In 1880 it was renamed to celebrate the Republic. during the Revolution one of the busiest guillotines was set in the center of the square. and there are some reliable brasseries on the square.32 ★★ Nation ★★ HISTORY BUFF SITE ! Things to See ✔ Picpus Cemetery ✔Place de la Nation History One of the largest squares in Paris. but many others are focal points for traffic and commerce. . Place de la Nation has a long and often bloody history. large. as a square. but most tourists should head right to Cimetiere Picpus. there are only a few spots that demand a busy tourist’s attention. Return to Nation or proceed down Saint-Mande to Picpus Métro on line 6. Clichy. including Bastille. Originally known as Place du Trone because a throne was erected there to welcome Louis XIV into the city. Hidden History Paris has a series of “places”. The statue by Dalou at the center of the square is impressive. The most famous of the places is at the Arc de Triomphe. find an area map and locate the exit for d’Eglantine. and then go left to 35 Rue de Picpus. and Nation. Despite the bustle of the square. paradoxically. Directions: At the Nation Métro. Eleven different streets feed into the busy Place de la Nation. Head down Eglantine for one long block. circular roundabouts that can be defined.
Much like the Vietnam Wall in Washington. everyday jobs. The larger part of the cemetery. Today his grave is always marked by an American flag. He escaped beheading (barely). There are no English signs. as well as several other rememberences of the role he played in the American Revolution. Over 1300 of the victims of the guillotine set up in the square were removed at night and buried in two mass graves in Picpus. There are more pharmacists. Immediately to the left Lafayette’s grave you’ll come to the site of the mass burial pits. though.33 Picpus is a melancholy site. these two lists make a human tragedy more tangible. D. is the memorial for General Lafayette of American Revolutionary fame. you may well find yourself alone if you visit. head into the small chapel where you will find two large signs inscribed with the names and the professions of the men and women who were victims of the Reign of Terror. which you come to first. on the French Revolution Metr2 . liberty was only a pretext. butchers. and teachers listed than politicians or soldiers.. which are gated off from the rest of the cemetery. The austere and somber atmosphere of the site is usually intensified by the loneliness of the site. Reading the list. but the cemetery and chapel are small and easy to navigate. The cemetery itself consists of two parts. There are seldom many visitors to Picpus. is still used by relatives of victims of the Revolution. Before heading out to the cemetery.C. Don’t Miss: Lafayette’s tomb The two mass burial plots The lists of the victims in the Picpus Chapel Vanity made the Revolution. Napoleon. Of most interest. most had ordinary. you’ll find that while some of the victims were journalists or politicians. There are a number of interesting WWI memorials. although his wife’s family wasn’t as lucky.
. Please Note: The entry for Nation is on the previous page and is out of order. 86 from the Métro stop. Sainte-Mandé Tourelle No compelling reason to stop. although this is an alternative way to go to the Vincennes Zoo. taking bus No. Named after an 18th century mayor of Vincennes. Bérault No compelling reason to stop. The area is surrounded by tall. Porte de Vincennes No compelling reason to stop. grey apartments and a number of stores.34 Reuilly-Diderot The Saint Eloi street market is open on Thursdays and Sundays on Rue de Reuilly.
The 14th century royal chateau is a piece of Parisian history that seldom makes it into the guidebooks. the precursor to Sainte-Chapelle. whose personal collection led to the formation of the Musée Guimet (see line 9. On the grounds one also can visit the site of the donjon and stroll through a rear courtyard featuring rather incongruous Greek statues. She had been a dancer in Paris. History The Chateau stands on the site of an earlier royal hunting ground.35 ★★ Chateau de Vincennes ★★★ A Castle by the Woods Things to See ✔ 14 Century castle ✔The town of Vincennes th Off the Beaten Path A Castle in Paris Many visitors to Paris take a side trip to the countryside just to see chateaux. The Chateau is covered by the museum pass . During WWI the chateau was the site where Mati Hari was executed by firing squad. The major structures mostly date back to the 14th century. stands across from the imposing chateau. Iena stop). Most tourists don’t know that a day trip to the Loire Valley to visit a medieval castle is unnecessary. A quick ride to the eastern end of Line 1 will deposit you right at the gate of Chateau de Vincennes. Whether or not she was actually a spy for Germany is still debated. A lovely chapel. Legend has it that Hari blew a kiss to her firing squad. the French version of the medieval castle. as well as a mistress of Emile Guimet.
Vincennes feels more like a separate small village. a small public park. should you wish to make an afternoon of your visit. the old quarter. city hall.36 If you’ve made the trip out to see the chateau. take some time to explore the charming little town of Vincennes. including Le Petit Bofinger. There are a number of uncrowded restaurants. one apart from Paris proper. Don’t Miss: Chateau de Vincennes The town of Vincennes The park and main square facing the Hotel de Ville Metr2 . Built on the outskirts of the Bois de Vincennes. and a statue of Saint Louis. one of the two forests bracketing Paris. A twenty-minute walk through town will take you past antique shops.
Visit the Cernuschi. The Moulin Rouge is the iconic building here. but don’t miss the Cemetery. . The Original Line Line 2 isn’t particularly useful for the Paris tourist. there are several very good museums to see. although there are some good sites on the line. spans an east/west line across the northern part of Paris. and just focus on the many smaller museums located on this line. Put in service December 13. From counterfeiting.37 Métro Line 2 Line 2. 1900 Don’t Miss Charles de Gaulle Etoile Visit the Arc de Triomphe. Much of the central part of this line bisects Paris’ red light district. then wander down the Champs Elysée. If you’re already seeing a site on this line. a hidden gem just off the bustle of the red light district. Pere Lachaise or the Arc de Triomphe. Parc Monceau is one of the loveliest parks in Paris. which is becoming a trendy destination. as well as the northern working class districts of Barbes Rochechouart and Belleville. Take the funicular up to Montmartre & explore the area around Sacre Coeur. Don’t miss the Musée de la Vie Romantique (or museum of romantic life). then there you may want to consider also exploring Sacre Coeur. the second Métro line to be built. Monceau Blanche Anvers Recommended Day Trip Save Montmartre for another day. African art and even erotic art.
7 5. Montmartre Cemetery. restaurants Moulin Rouge. Place Maurice Chevalier Lachaise cemetery (best exit for lower half). 7bis 11 Parc de Belleville. museums: Romantic Life. RER A 3 3 13 12 Barbes-Rochechouart La Chapelle Stalingrad Jaures Colonel Fabian Belleville Couronnes Ménilmontant Pere Lachaise 2 0 1 2 1 1 3 2 3 4 5. d’Ennery. Place du Tertre. Guimard Métro station Museum Dapper (African Art) Arc de Triomphe. 6.38 Metro Stop Porte Dauphine Victor Hugo Charles de Gaulle/Etiole Ternes Courcelles Villiers Rome Monceau Plaee de Clichy Blanche Pigalle Anvers Stars 2 2 1 2 1 1 1 4 1 4 1 5 Destinations Museums: Contrefaçon (counterfeiting). Museum of the Air Notre Dame de la Croix. churches: Sacre Coeur and St. ticket booth Street Market Park Monceau. via the funiculaire. Pierre African Paris. Champs Élysée Nevski Cathedral. Rontonde de la Villette (interesting building) Northern section of Canal Saint Martin Connections RER C 1. museum Cernuschi Busy square. Eroticism Red light district Gateway to Montmartre. Place de la Nation . Salvador Dali museum. Tati department store Place de Stalingrad. Take Gambetta on line 3 for upper half or full cemetery trip 3 Phillippe Auguste Alexandre Dumas Avron Nation 1 1 1 2 Picpus cemetery.
from money to Louis Vuitton purses. the later gates were built less as a means of defense. Before you leave the Métro station. Porte is term that generally suggests that at one time a gate to the city stood nearby. as well as to two interesting if somewhat obscure museums. then the Musée Contrefaçon is for you. . In this case. The other museum in the area is the Musée d’Ennery. nearby at 59. be sure to admire Hector Guimard’s covering over the station exit. as the area is notorious for prostitution and drug use). Most visitors come here for the museums. If you’ve got a teenager you’re trying to keep occupied. There are only two still remaining. Marie Antoinette had a gate built here between the Bois de Boulogne. The d’Ennery is free to enter. In general. the museum includes interactive exhibits on all kinds of forgeries. rue de la Faisanderie. While I recommend visiting the Bois using the Les Sablons stop on line 1.39 ★★ Porte Dauphine ★★ Worth a visit Things to See At the edge of town ✔ Musée Contrefaçon ✔Musée d’Ennery ✔Guimard’s History This busy stop at the edge of the 16th takes the visitor to the gateway of the Bois de Boulogne. avenue Foch. The small museum focuses on the mostly Chinese and Far Eastern art collected by the writer Adolphe d’Ennery and his wife. if you are in the area you can enter Boulogne here (but avoid at night. There is no cost to visit the permanent collection. and more as a way to charge taxes to those who wanted to bring their goods into Paris. Even those who aren’t enchanted by Asian art may well find the charming 19th century home worth a visit. or if you’ve always secretly wanted to be a counterfeiter. Located at 16. on Line 12. this one and the one at Abbesses.
. Charles de Gaulle/Etoile See Line 1 for information on this major stop. Paul Métro stop on line 1). It’s located on Rue Mesnil. and it focuses on sub-Saharan art. and Sunday. His political fortunes rose and fell during his lifetime. but if you’re in the area it’s a nice place to linger over a café crème. but what are a few Euros when you have such a charming view? Although it’s a busy traffic roundabout. Victor Hugo fans should make sure to visit his house at the Place des Vosges (see St. This being the 16th arrondissement. the Saint-Didier Covered Market is open on Tuesday. While the newer Musée du Quai Branly may have a more thorough collection. At the end of his life he was revered as a tireless fighter for freedom and human rights. an early geographer of Africa. with 10 streets feeding into the place. and nearly two million people attended his funeral. there’s a relaxed feeling to the area. the reason to make a special trip out here is to visit the Musée Dapper. If you are in the area. However.40 ★★ Victor Hugo ★★ A must see for lovers of African art Things to See African Art ✔ Musée Dapper History The pretty but busy Place Victor Hugo isn’t on most tourists’ agendas. Saturday. Victor Hugo is an iconic figure in French history. the coffee will cost you a bit more than it would elsewhere. the Dapper’s exhibitions tend to be more focused (and much less crowded). The museum is hidden at 35 rue Paul Valéry. His body now lies in the Pantheon. and for nearly two decades he lived as an exile from France. You reach the Dapper by heading down the Rue Léonard de Vinci and then taking a right on Rue Leroux. offering access to the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Élysées. The museum is named after Olfert Dapper. Best know to Americans as the author of such works at Les Misérables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame.
It’s not an easy market to find. such as concerts.41 ★★ Ternes ★★ Worth a visit if you enjoy unique churches or Russian architecture. is a queue of people lined up in the center of Place des Ternes. from Tuesday through Sunday. . The main reason for a tourist to exit here is to visit one of the more unique churches in Paris. During services many smaller churches restrict entry. Active churches don’t charge fees to enter. Beyond its unique architecture. but be respectful as there are often worshippers at all times of the day. depending upon the time of the day. although some close to visitors at various times throughout the day. a world-class concert hall located on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (itself one of the main shopping and fashion streets in Paris). although most welcome visitors to their services. The booth is situated here because of its proximity to Salle Pleyel. The unique domed church can be found at 12. Things to See An interesting church ✔ Russian Orthodox church ✔Salle Playel ✔Cheap Ticket booth Visiting Churches in Paris Most churches in Paris welcome visitors. so be sure to check the map before leaving the Métro. If you’re planning to see a show in Paris. the Cathédrale SaintAlexandre Nevski. The first thing that you may notice upon leaving the Métro stop. the church also served as the place for Picasso’s first wedding. That’s because a cheap ticket booth is located there. such as altars or confessionals. although they may charge fees during special events. That being said. Market Area The Ternes covered market can be found at 8 bis rue Lebon. to the Russian ballerina Olga Khokhlova. You are generally free to explore the church on your own. Rue Daru. You shouldn’t open doors or visit places that aren’t readily accessible. The market is open in the morning and from 4-7:30 from Tuesday through Saturday. Nevski Cathédrale has often been closed when I’ve stopped by. it may be worth your while to stop and see if they have tickets to your show.
The Swedish church Suedoise Svenska Kyrkan is just north of the stop. and you’re just two blocks from Parc Monceau should you happen to find yourself at Courcelles. .42 ★★ Courcelles No compelling reason to stop. Courcelles is named after a small town that stood in the area.
although I have to admit that I’ve always wanted to take a Velib’ and bike downhill from here towards Villiers. When good Americans die they go to Paris. is a street market on Boulevard Batignolles. this lovely part of Paris offers little compelling reason to visit. except on Mondays. Because the market is within walking distance of the lovely Parc Monceau. It runs daily. Oscar Wilde . Villiers is named after a small town that stood in the area. There is a covered market at 1 rue Corvetto. Place de Clichy. just south of the Métro stop.43 ★★ Villiers There is little reason to stop here. Midway between here at the next stop. Rome Sloping upwards toward Sacre Coeur. this makes a good market to pick up supplies for a leisurely afternoon picnic.
It was created in the middle of the 18th century by the Duc d’Orléans. . Andre-Jacques Garnerin. who parachuted into the park on October 22. and a Dutch windmill. Of all the public parks in Paris. 1797. This green spot in the center of Paris offers a quiet refuge from the busy boulevards nearby. Monceau is one of the loveliest and certainly the most unique. Residents of the private property surrounding the park have 24-hour access. If you enjoy Asian art. It’s much smaller than the other major parks—the Luxembourg Gardens or Buttes Chaumont. for example—and it’s constructed around a series of follies: Greek pillars. Egyptian statuary and a pyramid. including many ancient ceramics and bronze pieces. There are also surprises to be found in every corner. check out the nearby Musée Cernuschi at 7 Avenue Vélasquez.44 ★★ Monceau ★★★★ One of the prettiest parks in Paris Things to See Off the Beaten Path ✔ Park Monceau ✔Musée Cernuschi History Parc Monceau was once twice the size that it is at present. including a memorial to the first parachutist. and eventually half the property was used to build private residences. but after the Revolution the state seized the property. It features an impressive collection of Chinese and Japanese art. from a hot air balloon.
the name Clichy derives from the French word for a rabbit warren. The area was apparently. such as Place de la Nation and Place Bastille: lots of good restaurants and brasseries (particularly seafood at Clichy). a large selection of movie theaters. but if I were traveling past the area during lunch or dinnertime I might stop. but instead offers a certain bustling energy one finds at meeting places in all large cities. I can never seem to find Lapin on the menus in Clichy restaurants. Clichy is a place where you’re more likely to find young Parisians out for a night on the town than you are likely to find tourists. In other words. Like Nation and Bastille.45 ★★ Place de Clichy ★ A busy meeting place Things to Do A Busy Spot Place de Clichy is a lot like the other busy “places” in Paris. if I found myself fighting jet lag and needing someplace to unwind in the evening. particularly at night. at one time. Just remember. I might come out here to have a drink and do some people watching. . you’re in an urban environment and should be aware of your surroundings. and a variety of places to go for shopping or entertainment. As a visitor I wouldn’t go out of my way to come here. ✔ Have a meal in one of the many restaurants ✔People watch at night History According to Susan Plotkin in her excellent book The Paris Métro: A Ticket to French History. the area doesn’t abound with old churches or museums. overrun with rabbits. Despite the history. Or.
There had actually been at least five previous films about the Moulin Rouge.46 ★★ Blanche ★★★★ Several interesting sites Things to See Erotic Paris Even before Baz Lurhman’s movie Moulin Rouge came out in 2001. Today you can still pay to watch dancers perform the can-can. The area surrounding the Moulin Rouge constitutes Paris’ most famous red-light district. Blanche is a French word denoting white. check out the Musée de l’érotisme just one block east of the Métro entrance. a rather ironic term given the area’s reputation for lacking purity. ✔ Musée de la Vie Romantique ✔Moulin Rouge ✔Cimetiere de Montmartre ✔Musée de l’érotisme History Moulin is the French word for the windmills which used to dot the hills of Montmartre. If you want to experience a bit of the bawdy without worrying about your safety or forking over the Moulin Rouge’s exorbitant ticket prices. but for some visitors it is de rigueur. and postcards of Toulouse Latrec’s iconic posters advertising the cabaret can be found at any souvenir shop in town. The term came from the Plaster of Paris that was once mined in this region. Entrance to the permanent collections at Musée de la Vie Romantique is free. although during the day you’ll find families and hordes of tourists. The area can feel a little seedy at night. although the dance doesn’t seem quite as risqué. although it bares little resemblance to similar districts in Amsterdam or Frankfurt. the nightclub was synonymous with Paris and its overt sexuality. Taking in a show and dinner is expensive. .
and Eugene Delacroix. drawings. This charming little house and painting studio is hidden down a side street. Francois Truffaut. The house. Make sure get a map. which seems more like a cottage. so make sure you allot enough time to comfortably explore the area. either at the guardhouse or at one of the local florists in the area. features several floors of letters. is a longish three blocks south at 16 Rue Chaptal. and other artifacts of the time. this cemetery has some steep hills. Perhaps the most unique feature to the cemetery is that it has a multitude of living inhabitants—the cats who prowl between the stones. and Stendahl. de Clichy Getting your picture taken in front of the Moulin Rouge. Officials have discouraged the practice of feeding the cats. and one cannot help but think of the cemetery as theirs. Nijinsky. paintings. Don’t Miss: Cimetiere Montmartre and its cats The blush-inducing shops on the Blvd. The feral cats add an unusual atmosphere to the cemetery. Metr2 . but many of the local residents ignore the law. Like Pere Lachaise. one which was frequented by such guests as George Sand. offering a glimpse into the life of the artist in the middle of the 19th century. Just a few blocks north of the Moulin Rouge is the sprawling Montmartre Cemetery. Amongst the works you’ll find a couple of original Delacroix paintings. as well. The house hosted an artistic salon during that time. Many artists are buried here. There are a number of interesting works of sculpture to be seen. including Edgar Degas. Frédéric Chopin.47 One of Paris’ best little museums is also in the area. going so far as to threaten fines. The Musée de la Vie Romantique.
who today is rather obscure and less famous than the red-light district of Pigalle. However. your time would be better spent elsewhere in Paris. in the chic sections of town. For a quick sense of the area. While it’s rather tame compared to other European red-light districts. In WWII the area’s reputation for its sex trade earned it the nickname “pig alley”. Named for the 18th century French artist and sculptor. in the theater districts. the area still is seedy. disembarking at Blanche makes more sense. easy walk between Pigalle and Blanche can be an eye opener and is safe. I lived in Barbes. though. Edith Piaf . the streets where whores hung out. particularly at night. the flat. in Pigalle. During the day. Unless you have an interest in this kind of area. in Clichy.48 ★★ Pigalle ★ Not recommended Things to See Paris’ Red-light District ✔ Blush inducing shops of the red light district History The Pigalle district is the center of Paris’ sex industry. a glass of wine and a croque monsieur often costs less at a café here than in would closer to the Seine. if you’re in the area. Jean-Baptiste Pigalle.
Pierre ✔L’Espace Salvador Dali Montmartre Montmartre is one of the most iconic places in Paris. History Anvers in the French name for Antwerp. Because the white-domed church can be seen from much of Paris. The more obvious of the two is Sacre Coeur. this is the stop to take. a funicular will speed you to the top.49 ★★ Anvers ★★★★★ MUST SEE: Gateway to Montmartre ! Things to See ✔ Funicular ✔Montmartre ✔Place du Tertre ✔Sacre Coeur ✔St. The museum pass covers the Basilique . Although Montmartre towers above the Métro exit. a major city in Belgium and cite of a French military victory. The church is made out of a type of travertine that releases calcite whenever it rains. a relatively new church built in the latter half of the 19th century to honor those who died in the Franco-Prussian war. but ironically it’s also one of the hardest to get to. which keeps the Basilica white. it quickly became associated with the Parisian skyline. At the top of the hill you will find two of Paris’ most famous churches. There is no Métro stop at the center of the village of Montmartre. but if you do so. (For a full tour of Montmartre. see the entry for Abbesses on line 12). You can also walk up the stairs. be aware of scam artists trying to sell you worthless bracelets or other trinkets. so for those who are physically challenged or under time constraints.
Artists set up their easels in the center of the square. Around the edge of the square are a number of cafes and bistros. Resist the urge to move on—linger over your café. According to lore. St. It’s worth paying the overpriced fee for a coffee here. line 12. Watch your wallet or purse. with Russian troops shouting their word for “quickly”. there’s much to recommend this former artist colony. many tourists never visit this more interesting of the two churches. most likely on the grounds of an older Temple of Mars. Just west of Saint Pierre is the Place du Tertre. Today.. and get there early if throngs of people frustrate you. but if you’re making a quick stop you may want to visit the L’Espace Salvador Dali at 11. the term bistro began here. which is unusual in Paris. as it becomes your ticket to sit and take in the spectacle. This small museum is dedicated to the works of the surrealist painter. entry. rue Poulbot.m. trying to speed up the delivery of their food. The market is usually open until 8 p. it still is on of the most beautiful spots in Paris. Denis established the church in the 3rd century.50 The more historically interesting of the two churches is the much older Saint Pierre de Montmartre. Unfortunately. Undeniably geared towards tourists. Metr2 . as they’re trying to move you through so the next tourist can sit down. there is a good afternoon street market at the Place d’Anvers. If you find yourself here on a Friday. If you’re an art lover. More of the art background will be covered at Abbesses. . sketching quick portraits of tourists or selling ready-made canvas paintings (beware: sometimes they are mass produced from China). Warning: Place du Tertre can get very crowded. when it’s busy the waiters will serve you more quickly than elsewhere in Paris.
Printemps downtown. and then some quieter neighborhoods. largely thanks to Victor Hugo. He was spared. and offers a very different experience that you get in. Warning: the guidebooks warn about pickpockets in this area. personal awareness is warranted. If you wander off the main drag a block or two. energetic part of Paris. My favorite excursion in the area is to take the Chateau Rouge stop on line 4. and later moved to the Netherlands where he lived the remainder of his life in exile. I’ve never had an issue. you’ll realize that this is indeed a very different Paris. allowing views of the city. It’s a loud. but given the often chaotic nature of the quarter. you’ll first find some often very good and inexpensive falafel and donor kabob restaurants. as they seem to spread down the street) Tati is the focus of much of the energy in the region. say. and the goods at the various street vendors aren’t like those found elsewhere. one that I often enjoy going to. The food smells are different. Armand Barbes was a radical politician in the 19th century. which is 10 minutes uphill from Barbes-Rochechouart. During the chaotic 1830s and 1840s he went from elected official to a political prisoner sentenced to death. café’s with busy waiters—here’s a stop that will remind you of the incredible diversity in the city. including an inconceivable number of cell phone vendors. Note: From BarbesRochechouart to the Jaures station the Métro travels above ground. As soon as you exit the station. The shopping store (or rather stores. There are a number of interesting stores to explore. and walk down towards Tati. . The area around Barbes is predominantly North African. Come on a Wednesday or Saturday morning for the colorful market on Boulevard Chapelle.51 ★★ Barbes-Rochechouart ★★ African Paris Things to See A Different Side of Paris ✔ Tati department store ✔Colorful Open Air Market History If you’re tired of the stereotypical Paris—charming patisseries.
While the area isn’t blessed with museums or must-see monuments. Most of the Métro access is three or four blocks west of the canal. so make sure to take a map and plan your exit. which makes an easy place to start a trip down the Canal Saint Martin. It’s also a perfect place to either begin or end a bicycling excursion. At Place de Stalingrad you’ll find the interesting building the Rotonde de la Villette. particularly at night. there’s little to demand an unplanned stop here. The building traces its history to a late 18th century effort to build a wall around the city so that farmers would be taxed when they entered Paris. so look before you pedal or stroll through. although a walk along the canal is also quite pleasant. There is a Velib’ stand at Juares.52 ★★ La Chapelle This rather sketchy area is just north of Gare du Nord. That’s fine. as there is little to see here anyway. and it includes some areas best avoided. it has a youthful energy. which serves as the border between the Canal Saint Martin and the Bassin de la Villette (which becomes the Canal de la Ourcq. History Jean Jaures was an advocate of socialism who played a key role in the Dreyfus Affair. . Stalingrad While less sketchy than La Chapelle. Jaures Jaures and Stalingrad are situated closely together on the Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad. One word of warning: the homeless often set up semi-temporary camps under the bridges. supporting Alfred Dreyfus. He was assassinated in Paris on the eve of WWI. you’ll travel through an area in Paris that isn’t directly on the Métro. If you do take the trip.
You can’t escape the past in Paris. Belleville Belleville still feels like a separate place. The fortunes of Belleville have waxed and waned over the years.53 x★★ Colonel Fabian Although there is no real reason to stop here. There are interesting pockets throughout Belleville. but I’ll be focusing on those in the next entry. He shot a German officer at the BarbesRochechouart stop. The Villette street market is open on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Off the Beaten Path Allen Ginsberg . and yet what’s so wonderful about it is that the past and present intermingle so intangibly that it doesn’t seem to burden. it’s worth knowing that Colonel Fabian was a French resistance fighter in WWII. betraying its history as a working class commune where people spoke and ate differently than in Paris proper. There is a street market on Boulevard de Belleville on Tuesdays and Fridays. but at present there’s a youthful energy to many pockets of the area.
It’s easy for a tourist to plan a half-day visit starting in Lachaise Cemetery in the morning. . taking the guided tour. It bisects much of the northern part of the city. Visit any of the major department stores and the fashion show at Printemps. The ornate building opens at 10. take a quick and free tour of the Fragonard perfume museum. Wander through this charming neighborhood on the north end of the Marais. Put in service October 19. East-West Line Like the first two lines.Métro Line 3 Line 3 spans an east/west line across the northern part of Paris. Havre Caumartin Bourse Temple Best Day Trip? Begin your day early by trying to beat the throngs to visit the Garnier Opera house. 1904 Don’t Miss Opera Visit the Garnier Opera House. Continue on the Métro to the Bourse stop. followed by lunch and visiting the Marais via the Temple exit. and take the loop through the beautiful Galeries Vivienne and Notre Dame des Victoires. At the eastern part of number 3 the line splits of into 3bis. Most of the tourist sites are gathered around the central part of the line. cutting through the Opera quarter and the northern part of the Marais. Afterwards. including the bustling shopping area around the Opera quarter. Don’t miss Galeries Vivienne. a sort of leftover stub that goes through an uninteresting area on the eastern peripherique of the city. End your day either by exploring the area around Temple or the bars and restaurants on Oberkampf at Parmentier. so get in line early for tickets (and don’t miss the Chagall ceiling!). Line 3 is an east-west line. the lovely Notre Dame des Victoires or the street market.
Bourse stock market. Fragonard museum of perfume Galeries Vivienne (early 19th century shopping arcade).Metro Stop Pont de Levallois Bécon to Louise Michel Porte de Champerret Pereirre Wagram to Malsherbes Villiers Europe Saint-Lazare Havre Caumartin Opera Quartre-Septembre Bourse Stars 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 3 4 1 4 Destinations Connections Street market RER C Place Malsherbes. Take Gambetta on line 3 for upper half or full cemetery trip Pére Lachaise cemetery—best stop to visit so as to walk downhill 4 11 12. church Notre Dame des Victoires. Take Gambetta on line 3 for upper half or full cemetery trip Lachaise cemetery (best exit for lower half). Galeries Lafayette Palais Garnier opera house. rue de Temple (great neighborhood with charming architecture). museum JeanJacques Henner 2 Saint Lazare train station. 13. church St. 11 2 Pere Lachaise 3 3 Gambetta Porte de Bagnolet Ballieni 5 1 1 . FNAC department store Department stores: Printemps. covered market Place de la République Nightlife on rue Oberkamp Lachaise cemetery (best exit for lower half). Museum of Arts and crafts (really arts and sciences) Museum of Arts and crafts (really arts and sciences). Nicolas des Champs Church Sainte Elisabeth. 8. 9. 8 Sentier Reaumur Sebastopol Arts et Metiers 1 3 3 Temple 4 République Parmentier Rue Saint-Maur Pére Lachaise 1 4 1 3 5. decorated Métro station. 14 9 7.
busy traffic circle makes a nice place to sit and people watch.An★★ Pont de Levallois Bécon There is little reason to stop here. but there is little else to draw the tourist’s attention. . Anatole France There is little reason to stop here. Louise Michel There is little reason to stop here. Pereirre This large. Porte de Champerret The Wednesday and Sunday street market on Blvd. de Reims is the only compelling reason to stop in this rather nice neighborhood.
for which he was later beheaded. little corners where someone’s bid for immortality goes unnoticed—one might say a neglected shrine to a forgotten god. The museum is located roughly midway between the two Métro stops listed. I prefer to take the Malsherbes exit.★★ Wagram/Malsherbes ★★ A BEAUTIFUL MUSEUM Things to See North of Monceau The main reason for a tourist to stop in this neighborhood is to visit the Musée Jean-Jacques Henner. Henner. Paris has countless small and bizarre museums. It’s also just a five-minute walk south to the Parc Monceau. Or sometimes the museum caters to a perfectly real and valid taste. ✔ Musée JeanJacques Henner ✔Place Malsherbes History Malsherbes was a lawyer who defended Louis XVI during the French Revolution. so make sure to verify that it’s open before trekking out to visit. an Alsatian artist in the 19th century. one of Paris’ best parks. Edmund White. as it opens to an interesting square. The museum is located in an artist’s studio. Wagram is the name of a German town where Napoleon won a decisive battle against the Austrian army. The Flaneur . The museum was closed in 2008/2009 for a complete renovation. is best known for his nude paintings. but one not shared by too many people.
★★ Villiers See Métro line 2 Europe There is no compelling reason to get off at this stop in the shadow of Gare Saint Lazare. _______________________________________________________________________________________ One of the best ways to pick up some of the French language is to read the advertisements plastered on the wall. . Here is an advertisement for one of the twice-yearly sales in Galeries Lafayette.
Havre Caumartin ★★★ The home of Printemps and Galeries Lafayette Even if you aren’t a shopper at heart. On the streets in front of the department stores you’ll find some of the best bargains in Paris. odds are that you’ll leave via Saint Lazare. make sure to call or email for tickets in advance. and haystacks. .★★ Saint-Lazare ★★ Shopping Central Things to See Trains and Shopping ✔ The Train Station ✔FNAC department store The Gare Saint Lazare is the second busiest train station in Paris. which captures Monet’s fascination capturing a subject from several different angles and in different lighting. these multi-level museums of commerce have something to offer just about every shopper. a technique he would later use in his series on water lilies. Today this stop marks the beginning of the busy department store area centered around the large boulevards of Paris. Rouen Cathedral. If you’re in Paris for Christmas. be sure to check out the mechanized display in front of Lafayette. If you decide to visit Normandy by train. The FNAC department store is closest to Saint-Lazare. The station itself is probably most famous as the subject of Claude Monet’s painting series Gare Saint Lazare. Like Harrod’s in London. spending a morning shopping at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette is an experience to remember. Currently they are held on Fridays at 3. Often overlooked is the free fashion show at Galeries Lafayette. as well as store front displays that often boggle the mind.
★★ Opéra ★★★★ Highly recommended for the Palais Garnier Things to See ✔ Opera Garnier ✔Fragonard Museum of Perfume History Charles Garnier won the bid to build his opera house during the midst of Haussmann’s renovation of Paris in the middle half of the 19th century. It opened in 1875. this free museum will introduce you to the history of perfume. you may want to visit the Fragonard Musée du Parfum at 9 rue Scribe. Taking a guided tour of the Palais Garnier is highly recommended. While you’re in this very busy quarter of Paris. Not to be confused with the Musée Fragonard devoted to taxidermy (see line 8). The Fragonard Museum of Perfume is free . especially since it’s the only way you’ll get to see the Chagall ceiling and the Grand Staircase. find a patisserie that sells the decadent l’Opéra. It’s certainly the most ornate and the most famous. a chocolate and Grand Marnier covered pastry that was created by the famous chef Gaston Lenôtre and was designed to resemble the Opéra Garnier. and its style reflects the baroque aesthetics of the time. Paris’ Most Beloved Opera House Most Parisians think of the Opéra Garnier as the opera house in Paris. If you want a special treat while in Paris. with many bronze and gilded statues.
_________________________________________________________________________________ . Otherwise you’ll be left alone to contemplate September 4. 1870.★★ Quatre-Septembre It’s amazing how quickly the chaos of the Opera quarter fades once you get a few blocks away. half way between the Opera and this stop on the Boulevard des Italiens. This quiet. when Léon Gambetta declared the fall of the Second Empire and the formation of the Third Republic of France. Just north of the stop. nice area of Paris has little to recommend for the average tourist. you’ll find a great selection of cinemas—as well as restaurants of all sorts.
This is one of the last markets to close in the evening. making sure to stop by number 9. many with personal messages. giving thanks to Mary for saving “my husband from assassins”. I can’t honestly say that I’ve taken the tour of the stock exchange. which led to a profusion of plaques being put up in her honor. Continue down the street until you come to the small square in front of the Basilique Notre Dame des Victoires. I could spend hours in this church just reading these messages. On the last trip I came across one from April 1871. To begin with. To this day. which as far as I can tell is only conducted in French.★★ Bourse ★★★★ A lot to see in a small quarter Things to See ✔ Galeries Vivienne ✔The Bourse Street Market ✔Notre Dame des Victoires I’ve got to admit that I didn’t bother stopping here until my fifth or sixth visit to Paris. This charming (mostly) 17th century church became famous when the Virgin Mary supposedly appeared to a priest here in the early 19th century. These small plaques are mostly tokens of thanks to Mary. After exploring the square in front of the Bourse. really didn’t interest me much. but there are several other things to do in the area. so if you forgot anything you need for dinner. . as well as for the street market that sets up from Tuesday to Friday. Paris’ version of the stock market. the imposing neoclassical structure that houses the Bourse is worth seeing for itself. from early afternoon through early evening. a small boutique with the exuberant name “Elvis My Happiness”. Partly it’s because the Bourse. shop here. head south down Notre Dame des Victoires.
Just to the west of the church you’ll find the Galeries Vivienne at 6 rue Vivienne. researching. There are a number of such arcades still open in Paris. but this is one of the prettiest and best preserved. . and cataloguing the arcades and galleries of Paris in his unfinished work The Arcades Project. and today it continues the tradition of providing a dry. warm place to shop on cold or rainy days. Intellectual history: Don’t Miss: Galeries Vivienne Basilique Notre Dame des Victoires and its votive plaques The Bourse and its street market The scholar and writer Walter Benjamin devoted much of his latter career to tracking down. This early 19th century covered arcade was one of the first opened in Paris. Old book lovers will particularly enjoy the bookstore. This seminal work in cultural criticism was never finished because the Jewish Benjamin was a victim of the Nazi invasion of France. His project was an attempt to catalogue the growth of the middle class in 19th century Paris.
Sentier ★ No compelling reason to stop at this station. . whose name means “trail” or “path” in English.
Martin des Champs (or St. The church is still quite distinctive and worth visiting for anyone who loves gothic architecture. Nicolas des Champs Devoting an hour or two to visiting the area between these two stops will reward a visitor who will see two interesting churches. The Battle of Malakoff (see line 13) was a decisive moment in the siege. which is crammed from top to bottom with cars. The other reason to visit Arts et Métiers is that the complex has repurposed the 13th century church St. The name is something of a misnomer.★★ Reaumur Sebastopol ★★★ Worth seeing for returning visitors or for science fans Arts et Metiers ★★★ Worth seeing for returning visitors or for science fans Things to See ✔ Musée Arts et Métiers ✔St. History The siege of Sevastopol (or Sebastopol) was a major victory for the French and British armies [and a major loss for the Russian forces] in the Crimean War. typewriters. The Musée des Arts et Métiers is covered by the museum pass . Children and adults love this museum. as for the most part the museum is devoted to scientific inventions. Martin in the Fields) to include objects in the museums collection. as many parts of the old church are still in use. and what is perhaps the most distinctive Métro station in Paris. or the museum of arts and crafts. most visitors who make the trek to these two stops in the 3rd Arrondissement will have come to see the Musée Arts et Métiers. one unique museum. The museum is often found on lists of things for children to do in Paris. planes. but anyone who loves gadgets and inventions will be thrilled. That being said. and various other inventions.
Along with the Porte Saint-Denis arch nearby. There is a particularly high concentration of good art in Saint Nicolas. although the church that stands here today was largely a product of the early 17th century. Cross Boulevard Réamur and take a left of Cunin-Gridaine.When you leave the museum. I love Paris in the springtime I love Paris in the fall I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles I love Paris every moment Every moment of the year I love Paris. St. these two 17th century arches were placed at the sites of former tollgates on the boundaries of Paris. Nicolas des Champs. Turn around at the charming park in the Square Émile Chautemps and retrace your steps. Underground the stop is designed to resemble the steam engine room of a submarine. Continue up Rue de Turbigo and in just a half a block you’ll come to the Arts et Metiers Métro stop. In one short block you’ll come up to St. At the end of the street you will be able to see the Arc de Triomphe de la Porte Saint-Martin. The church can trace its beginning back to the 11th century. oh why do I love Paris? Because my love is here Cole Porter Metr2 . take a right and walk a half block north on Rue SaintMartin. Nicolas des Champs in another wonderful church. why.
but a large fortress stood in this area during the Middle Ages. get lost! While most of Paris is efficiently available via the Métro. From the Temple station you can head south through most of the 3rd Arrondissement without coming to another Métro station. Built by the Knights Templar (how did the Davinci Code miss this site?) During the French Revolution. south of Temple is a large swath of very interesting Paris that is often overlooked. continue down Rue du Temple for a block. Look for placards describing the former Temple area. so take my advice and explore. This beautiful little church dates back to the middle of the 17th century. History It’s hard to imagine. This area has a high concentration of architectural gems. as well as an amazing series of 19th century basreliefs. You’ll soon come to the Eglise Sainte Elisabeth. As you leave the church. . several members of the royal family were imprisoned in the fortress. At the end of the block is a marvelous covered market. although you’ll find a wooden pieta carved around 1524. As you head south down Rue de Temple. you might want to stop at the Monoprix and pick up a readymade sandwich or pastry for later. then take a left onto Rue Dupetit-Thouars. It was demolished on the orders of Napoleon III.★★ Temple ★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ Sainte Elisabeth ✔ Open Air Market Go ahead.
lasting until the beginning of WWII and the installation of the Vichy Regime. . ✔ Sculpture La République History In 1870 the square was renamed to honor the Third Republic. Stop here to grab a bite to eat or to quickly look around. Many streams of traffic. Place de la République is a bustling roundabout. but always energetic Things to See Busy Intersection Like Bastille or Clichy. which had been formed after the fall of the empire ruled over by Napoleon III. but it is fairly difficult to get close to— and the city has many more impressive sculptures. hop on one of the five connections underground (or one of the many buses) and head to your next destination. but if nothing grabs you right away. both above ground and underneath. converge upon this busy square. but overall there is little to attract the casual tourist.★★ République ★ Not compelling. There is an impressive sculpture in the center of the Place commemorating the Third République. It is a good place to find a reasonably priced café or brasserie. The Third Republic was relatively stable. anyway. That’s not to say that one needs to get out here. and there are many places to shop.
who is best known for introducing the potato to France. Pére Lachaise See Line 2 for information on visiting the lower half of the famous Pére Lachaise Cemetery. respect. they bring to their consideration of the table the same appreciation. and for the theatre. for literature. Alice B. restaurants. The area is full of nightlife. intelligence and lively interest that they have for the other arts.” which is a pretty accurate one to use. for painting. Rue Saint-Maur There is little reason to stop here. The French approach to food is characteristic. but if you’re looking for a snack or casual meal I heartily recommend Marche ou Crepe at 88 rue Oberkampf. The best reason to stop here is to visit the Oberkampf neighborhood. I’ll leave it to you to find a bar that you like (if that’s what you’re looking for). with popular bars.An★★ Parmentier •••• Recommended for the nightlife The station is named after an agricultural minister in Louis XVI’s government. and boutiques that draw in Parisian and tourist alike. Toklas . The adjective most commonly found attached to the Oberkampf area is “trendy.
and given the size of the property it is advisable to start here at the Gambetta stop. Lachaise Cemetery Pére Lachaise Cemetery is so large that it has two Métro stops. this one and the stop named for the cemetery. Several important figures. . which soon become the place to be buried in Paris. which was established as a cemetery in 1804.★★ Gambetta ★★★★★ MUST SEE! Things to See ✔ Oscar Wilde’s tomb ✔Memorials to war victims History Pére Lachaise is named after Louis XIV’s priest and confessor. Health scares in the 18th century led to the establishment of several cemeteries on the (then) outskirts of the city. including Moliére and Abélard and Héloise. including Pére Lachaise. The cemetery sits of a steep slope. were reburied in the new cemetery. which is at the top of the cemetery. The cemetery is located near his land and for years the Jésuits had a hospice on the property.
and Baron Haussmann. you really should purchase a map (plan du cimetiere) from any of the florists near the entrance. stopping at Gertrude Stein and Alice B. There are several of these moving memorials.france-for-visitors. head down Av. in the upper eastern quadrant of the cemetery is the Mur de Fédérés. Alternatively. Toklas’ rather simple graves. 147 members of the Paris Commune. of course. Wilde died in self-exile in Paris after his release from jail. . a heartbroken and ruined man. Continue from here downhill. you can download and print one for yourself from http://www.html Although the cemetery seems to be far away from the center of Paris. Jim Morrison. Soon after it was opened during Napoleon’s reign. I start by heading first to Oscar Wilde’s unusual Aztec-inspired monument.com/france-maps/paris/pere-lachaise-cemetery-map. Today fans pay homage by leaving red-lipstick traced kisses on the distinctive monument (flowers are also ok for those who prefer not to kiss public monuments).After exiting the Métro station. Moliére. How you visit the cemetery depends. where you’ll find the tombs of Abélard and Héloise. it remains the place to be buried for those seeking status. Colette. Pére Lachaise towards the main entrance. a series of high profile burials—including Moliere and Abélard and Héloise—cemented its reputation. upon your own interests. where in 1871. a communist government that briefly ruled France. After Wilde. were pinned against the wall and shot. the architect who gave much of Paris its distinctive look. Before entering. and then head through the various monuments memorializing those who perished in Nazi concentration camps. At the bottom of the cemetery you can exit on Boulevard de Menilmontant and take the Pére Lachaise Métro stop to your next destination. Chopin. When I take visitors. I usually wander due east. Just past them.
you turn a corner and find the extraordinary. Even in the busy corners of everyday Paris. . Gallieni There is little reason to stop here.An★★ Porte de Bagnolet There is little reason to stop here. Take time to explore for yourself.
The adjective most commonly found attached to the Oberkampf area is “trendy. restaurants. and botiques that draw in Parisian and tourist alike.73 An★★ Parmentier The station is named after an agricultural minister in Louis XVI’s government. I’ll leave it to you to find a bar that you like (if that’s what you’re looking for). Pére Lachaise See Line 2 for information on visiting the lower half of the famous Pére Lachaise Cemetery.” which is a pretty accurate one to use. . but if you’re looking for a snack or casual meal I heartily recommend Marche ou Crepe at 88 rue Oberkampf. who is best known for introducing the potato to France. The best reason to stop here is to visit the Oberkampf neighborhood. •••• Recommended for the nightlife Rue Saint-Maur There is little reason to stop here. The area is full of nightlife. with popular bars.
Health scares in the 18th century led to the establishment of several cemeteries on the (then) outskirts of the city.74 ★★ Gambetta ★★★★★ MUST SEE! Things to See ✔ Oscar Wilde’s tomb ✔Memorials to war victims History Pére Lachaise is named after Louis XIV’s priest and confessor. and given the size of the property it is advisable to start here at the Gambetta stop. this one and the stop named for the cemetery. which is at the top of the cemetery. were reburied in the new cemetery. which was established as a cemetery in 1804. which soon become the place to be buried in Paris. including Moliére and Abélard and Héloise. including Pére Lachaise. The cemetery sits of a steep slope. The cemetery is located near his land and for years the Jésuits had a hospice on the property. Several important figures. . Lachaise Cemetery Pére Lachaise Cemetery is so large that it has two Métro stops.
Wilde died in self-exile in Paris after his release from jail. Colette. Today fans pay homage by leaving red-lipstick traced kisses on the distinctive monument (flowers are also ok for those who prefer not to kiss public monuments). a series of high profile burials—including Moliere and Abélard and Héloise—cemented its reputation. Metr2 . I usually wander due east. Toklas’ rather simple graves. where you’ll find the tombs of Abélard and Héloise. How you visit the cemetery depends. were pinned against the wall and shot. Just past them.com/france-maps/paris/pere-lachaise-cemetery-map. Before entering. upon your own interests. you really should purchase a map (plan du cimetiere) from any of the florists near the entrance. stopping at Gertrude Stein and Alice B. head down Av. Pére Lachaise towards the main entrance.75 After exiting the Métro station. you can download and print one for yourself from http://www. Moliére. After Wilde.html Although the cemetery seems to be far away from the center of Paris. Continue from here downhill. it remains the place to be buried for those seeking status. There are several of these moving memorials. I start by heading first to Oscar Wilde’s unusual Aztec-inspired monument. of course. At the bottom of the cemetery you can exit on Boulevard de Menilmontant and take the Pére Lachaise Métro stop to your next destination.france-for-visitors. Jim Morrison. and Baron Haussmann. where in 1871. a communist government that briefly ruled France. in the upper eastern quadrant of the cemetery is the Mur de Fédérés. Chopin. and then head through the various monuments memorializing those who perished in Nazi concentration camps. Soon after it was opened during Napoleon’s reign. 147 members of the Paris Commune. a heartbroken and ruined man. When I take visitors. the architect who gave much of Paris its distinctive look. Alternatively.
. Gallieni There is little reason to stop here.76 An★★ Porte de Bagnolet There is little reason to stop here.
including Notre Dame and Saint Chapelle. one of Paris’ oldest churches. along with major train stations and the Saint Ouen flea market. Wander around the many sites near “Kilometer Zero”. After exiting. and the Delacroix museum. get back on the Métro and head to Saint-Michel. There are several four-star and above sites for the tourist. . Walk across any of the bridges to the ile de la Cité and spend your afternoon exploring Notre Dame and Saint Chapelle.77 Métro Line 4 Line 4 annually competes with Line 1 for being the busiest line. as well as St. Don’t miss Saint-Severin or the twisted medieval streets in the area. It stops at three major train stations and a number of very good tourist spots. by visiting the catacombs and taking the underground hike. Along with line 1. Louis for something fancier. stop for an inexpensive lunch in “Little Athens”.M. Severin. this line provides access to much of Paris. or head to ile St. SainteGermaindes-Pres Saint-Michel Cité Best Day Trip? Begin your day at 10 A. 1908 Don’t Miss DenfertRochereau Visit the Catacbombs and the rue Daguerre shopping market—one of Paris’ best. Visit Saint Germain. North-South Line Line 4 is a busy line that takes the tourist from the very northern periphery of Paris to the very southern boundaries. Take time to explore the crooked medieval streets and the many stores. While in the area. Put in service April 21.
Germain. 9 . near Notre Dame and the ile de la Cité Notre Dame. Conciergerie. Le Chemin (artist’s alley) Church Saint Sulpice. the Fountain of the Innocents.78 Metro Stop Port d’Orléans Alésia Mouton-Duvernet Denfert-Rochereau Stars 2 2 1 5 Destinations Parc Montsouris. 11. Cartier Foundation Museum (contemporary art and photography) Montparnasse Tower and Observation deck. Shakespeare and Co. restaurants. Bourdelle sculpture museum. good neighborhood to wander in east of the church Church St. the smallest street. Severin. shopping Lively district. Sainte-Chapelle. Delacroix house and museum. 13 1 3 4 10 Saint-Michel 5 Cité Les Halles-Chatelet 5 5 1. the archeological crypt Large underground shopping center. Saint Denis arch Connections Tram 3 6. shopping street rue Montorgueil. 7. rue de la Huchette. RER A. St. Bartholdi’s Lion sculpture. rue Galande and rue St. Eustache Near all sites in the Les Halles area Museum of Arts and crafts (really arts and sciences) The fan museum. Danton statue “Little Athens” medieval district. Paris Observatory. B. 12. movie houses. church St. museum Dupuytren (medical oddities). near Montparnasse Cemetery Monparnasse Cemetery. church Saint-Pierre-de-Mountrouge The Catacombs. 14. left-bank café life. RER B Raspail 3 6 Vavin MontparnasseBienvenüe Saint Placide Saint-Sulpice Saint-Germain-desPres Odéon 1 3 6. Montrouge Cemetery Bargain shopping. D Etienne Marcel Reaumur Sebastopol Strasbourg-SaintDenis 3 3 2 3 8. Rue Daguerre market street. bookstore. André des Arts shopping streets.
the Puces de SaintOuen . Tati department store 5. D. 7 2 12 The world’s largest flea market. RER B.79 Chateau d’Eau Gare du Nord Gare de l’Est Barbes-Rochechouart Chateau Rouge MarcadetPoissonniers Simplon Porte de Clingancourt 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 3 Train station Gare du Nord Train station Gare de l’Est African Paris. E 5.
I often will stop and find a simple café to eat in. This above ground has proven to be an effective way to link areas on the periphery of Paris. an interesting cemetery nestled up against the peripherique. paralleling the Peripherique. The Cite Universitaire stop lead to the rather remarkable Parc Montsouris. taking the new tram eastward will allow you to see the southern edge of the city. If you do come this far. If I find myself towards this end of the line.80 ★★ Porte d’Orléans ★★ Everyday Paris Things to See End of the Line The southern terminus for line 4 leaves you at a rather energetic if unadorned part of Paris. consider continuing all the way to Porte D’Ivry. tramways have made a comeback in the last twenty years. like me. it’s an interesting visit. . Cemetery lovers can visit the Cimetiere de Montrouge. Tram 3 runs almost the entire length of the southern end of the left bank. a Haussmann-era creation. Although it lacks celebrities that non-Parisians will know. many students use the park. and there’s an everyday feel to the area that I find appealing. If you take Tram 3 eastward. and many interesting statues. you hate to have blank spots in your mental map of Paris. Because of its proximity to the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris. often saving commuters quite a bit of time. The lovely little park features some very nice strolls around a wooded lake. Your Métro pass or ticket covers the fee for riding the Tram system. That being said. where you can pick up Métro line 7 back to town. The prices are always cheaper here than in the center of town. ✔ Montrouge Cemetery ✔Parc Montsouris (via Tram 3) The Tram System One of the earliest forms of public transportation in Paris. there’s little reason to go out of your way to visit this part of the city unless.
has two sites worth visiting. Mouton-Duvernet Although it sounds like it ought to be the name of a good French wine. There is no compelling reason to visit the area. Not being a shopper. long since absorbed into Paris. although like Alésia and Denfert Rochereau there are lots of opportunities to shop and dine in a more middle-class setting for those seeking a “non-touristy” Paris experience. .81 ★★ Alésia ★★ A must for shoppers Things to See ✔ Discount Stores of rue d’Alésia ✔Saint-Pierre-de Montrouge This stop. offering haute couture at an appreciable discount. but my wife swears by the area. The first is the Haussmann-era church Saint-Pierre-de-Montrouge. I cannot vouch for the quality of the deals. named for a crucial 52 BC Roman victory over the Celtic tribes. a massive building that dominates the quarter. Historically this area was centered on the village of Montrouge. Most visitors to this quartier probably come for the many discount clothing stores. this station is named after a general in Napoleon’s army who was assassinated in 1816.
One of the city’s largest cemeteries.82 ★★ Denfert-Rochereau ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ The Catacombs ✔Rue-Daguerre shopping street ✔ Bartholdi’s Lion Sculpture History The first thing you’ll see when you exit onto the busy Place Denfert Rochereau is a rather large statue of a lion. it became clear to Parisian officials that the haphazard mass burials that had characterized French burials up to this point were at best unseemly. Towards the end of the 18th century. the Catacombs are the repository of nearly 6 million bones.000 French soldiers were lost and the town almost completely destroyed. Les Named after the French military hero Pierre Marie Phillippe Aristide DenfertRochereau. Nearly 5. . Then Colonel Denfert-Rocheareau mobilized his smaller force and locals to hold off the German Empire. This iconic French image is dedicated to the general whose name marks the station (see “History”). and was created by Frédéric Bartholdi. and at worst unsanitary. there are three main reasons why the Métronaut might want to get out at this stop. Other than Bartholdi’s statue. Although he’d already distinguished himself in the Crimean war. it was during the 1870 war with Prussia. allowing the strategic pass city to remain French. Perhaps the most famous attraction is the Paris Catacombs. Begun in 1786. the same sculptor who created the Statue of Liberty.
If the empire of the dead leaves you feeling a bit morbid. which might interest some readers. was indeed healthier is something you can consider. often with bizarre heart and cross patterns formed by arranging the skulls. come back and celebrate the living at the busy little Rue Daguerre. you can cross over to the entrance of Cimitiere Montparnasse. Markers commemorate the old cemeteries that provided the bones. as many guidebooks suggest. You’ll have to walk up and down nearly 200 narrow. make sure to wear comfortable shoes. It’s about a ten-minute walk from the station. and a McDonalds to commemorate the former burial spot. When you see the skulls and bones left stacked at the exit you’ll know why.83 Cimetiere des Innocents. If you continue to the top of the street. and be prepared to have you bags searched on the way out. and closer to the water table. Take some time to sit and people watch at one of the café’s or bistros lining Daguerre. One of the best of Paris’ permanent street markets. . the observatory was one of the first and most important astronomical research centers in the world. and the scientist François Arago ran the observatory for many years—lending his name to the nearby Boulevard Arago. Founded in 1671. and one marker denotes where many victims of the French Revolution now repose. Stroll though the various fish. where today the “Fountain of the Innocents” stands amidst skateboarders. Don’t bother bringing a flashlight. was located next to the main food market. is the Paris Observatory. though. especially if you visit on a rainy day. Les Halles. The third place. You won’t need it. steep steps on a spiral staircase. described more fully under the Gaite Métro stop. Do bring your camera. An interesting accordion store stands about ¾ of the way up the street at 80 Rue Daguerre. protestors. Whether moving the remains to the underground tunnels formed by quarries. The scientist Le Verrier discovered Neptune here. or shop at the stores lining the street. under much quieter Parisian streets. The bones are stacked like firewood. cheese and vegetables stands. If you go. Rue Daguerre feels less touristy than Rue Mouffetarde.
unfortunately. a far cry from the lively café life one found in the quarter in the 1920s. (it made almost unbearable trouble for the concierge) Sweet oil. The museum is. Vavin This is a pleasant enough stop in the shadow of Tour Montparnasse. often overlooked. (they continue to place his mail in the letter rack at the Dome) A Norwegian boy kills himself and is dead. but I think it’s worth visiting just to see architect Jean Nouvel’s distinctive building. the white of eggs. I like to enter at the Gaite stop and work my way downhill. Every afternoon the people one knows can be found at the café. Montparnasse There are never any suicides in the quarter among people one knows . Nouvel also created the Institut Monde Arabe in the 5th district and the Branley in the 7th. The art is cutting edge. (no one knows where the other Norwegian boy has gone) They find a model dead alone in bed and very dead. mustard and water.84 ★★ Raspail There are many entrances to the Cimetiere du Montparnasse. a major contemporary art museum. Ernest Hemingway . A Chinese boy kills himself and is dead. but there is little to recommend stopping for. soap suds and stomach pumps rescue the people one knows. exiting at Raspail. At this stop you also have excellent access to the Fondation Cartier. No successful suicides.
There’s a mall located in the Tower. Connecting here can be a major hassle. it created such a stir that the city banned future skyscrapers. as well as connections to four Métro lines. larger. Today it’s almost impossible to avoid the area. . connections are often spaced quite far apart. there’s a major train station located here. at least in the center of Paris. When it was built in the early 1970s. despite the moving walkways. soon after it was completed. and pretty much despised by most Parisians. and visitors often go to the observation deck on the 59th floor for unparalleled views of Paris (there is a fee). The tower itself is black. lending a distinctively ultramodern feel to this formerly quaint quarter.85 ★★ Montparnasse-Bienvenüe ★★★ Pockets of interest hidden among an uninteresting area Things to See ✔ Le Chemin du Montparnasse ✔Musée Bourdelle ✔ The Montparnasse Tower The other Paris Tower The monolithic Tour Montparnasse dominates what was the center of Bohemian Paris in the 1920s.
away from Avenue du Maine. you can avoid the chaos of Montparnasse-Bienvenüe by walking back down the Rue Antoine Bourdelle. rue Antoine Bourdelle. In the building that was Vassilieff’s home one can know visit the Musée Montparnasse. the museum also presents works by Rodin. This will lead to the Métro stop Falguiére on line 12. and then taking a right up rue Falguiére.86 You don’t have to look very hard. this tiny alley was home to a cantine des artistes created by Marie Vassilieff. The first is the Musée Bourdelle at 18. Modigliani. The museum is set in his house and studio. . If you’re not sure if his work is your cup of tea. Saint Placide Although a pleasant neighborhood. Along Bourdelle’s sculptures. one that was frequented by Picasso. there is little to see here in the shadow of Tour Montparnasse. According to a sign found there. Bourdelle studied under Rodin. though to find traces of the Paris of the 1920s. Across the busy Avenue du Maine you’ll find a reminder of what the area was like in the 1920’s by exploring the tiny alley called Le Chemin du Montparnasse. and his work often suggests the influence of his master. and you’ll get a sense of Bourdelle’s work. After exploring these two quite oases in this otherwise charmless neighborhood. offering a glimpse into the artist’s life. Delacroix. Chagall and other artists. Just a few minutes east of Montparnasse are two sites that are well worth your time. and many other artists. peer into the open courtyard that’s visible from the street.
the famous organ. There is an elaborate display debunking this on the north side of the church. If you’re here at Christmastime. The current church is mostly a product of the early 18th century. The area surrounding the church also features some good shopping and small restaurant . a brass line that novelist Dan Brown called the rose line in his book. as it’s slightly smaller than Notre Dame. just don’t expect to find clues to the Holy Grail here. although this hasn’t kept the novel’s fans (and conspiracy theorists) from flocking to the church. In 2008-2009 extensive work was being done on the façade. a small but lively Christmas market is set up in front of the church. Come to see Delacroix’s amazing paintings (he kept a house nearby—see exit St. Germaine).87 ★★ Saint-Sulpice ★★★ An amazing church Things to See ✔ Saint Sulpice History Saint Sulpice is the second largest church in Paris. The worst part about visiting this remarkable church is that you’ll have to dodge the Davinci Code fans who flock to see the “gnomon”. and the unique colonnade on the church’s face. although a church has stood on this site since at least the 13th century.
The artist moved here when he was decorating Saint-Sulpice. with parts that can be traced back to the 6th century. Much of the church was rebuilt following Norman raids in the 9th century. Camus.88 ★★ Saint-Germain-des-Pres ★★★ Café life Things to See Left Bank Café Life ✔ Saint-Germaindes-Pres ✔Delacroix Museum ✔ Les Deux Magots History The abbey of Saint-Germaindes-Pres was once very powerful and rich. drinking strong coffee amongst the ghosts of Sartre. The church that remains claims to be the oldest in Paris. Still. If you continue down Rue de l’Abbaye behind the church. and it was much larger that the present church. Hemingway and Wilde while scribbling notes in a journal is something every writer should do at some point in his life. The large tower in front was built between 990 and 1014. There are actually two non-café related reasons why one might choose to surface at this stop. Les Deux Magots and Café Flore. The museum pass covers the Musée National Eugene Delxcroix . The Boulevard Saint-Germain was the heart of intellectual Paris in the post WWII era. although the coffee or wine will cost you more than almost anywhere else in Paris. The museum has preserved his house and his artist studio. Today you can still visit two of the more famous cafes. Existentialists and expatriate writers held court in the cafés of the quarter. The streets around the Place de Furstenburg are lovely and worth exploring. it is a beautiful example of a gothic church. Although much smaller than it was during its heyday. you can take Rue de Furstenburg to a small museum devoted to the Romantic artist Eugene Delacroix. Across from Deux Magots you’ll find the church of Saint Germain des Pres.
as well as a number of popular cafes and restaurants for an after-movie drink or meal. Warning: this may not be a suitable museum for young children or anyone easily disturbed. There are a number of movie theaters that dot the area. this may be the oddest museum in Paris.89 ★★ Odeon ★★ A lively district Line 4 Things to See ✔ Statue of Danton ✔Musée Dupuytren Date Night The Odeon Métro stop is a popular place for a night out in Paris. if you’re going to the museum in the Palace then this is a logical stop (see RER C for more information on the gardens). particularly after dark. including wax models of various medical disfigurements. For the tourist. and to this day you’ll find a number of movie theaters in the area. located at 15. there’s little to demand attention. Maisons-Alfort). The museum hosts a collection of medical oddities. Café Procope at 13 Rude de l’Ancienne Comedie is the oldest café in Paris. For those with morbid curiosities. Next to the Musée Fragonard de l’École (see line 8. greats you as you emerge from the Métro. all of which add a palpable energy to the area. History Odeon is the Greek word for theater. For those who love cafes. rue de l’Ecole de Médecine. One can easily walk to the Luxembourg Gardens from here. . The area is fun to wander through and window shop. You’re also in the midst of several universities and schools here. It’s part of the medical branch of the University of Paris. particularly if you wander down to the Rue Saint-André des Arts. one of the main figures in the French Revolution. Few are likely to attend the Odéon theater that gives the stop its name. there is the Museé Dupuytren. A statue of Georges Danton.
you’re entering into one of the most interesting. While standing in front of the theater. André des Arts. but it’s safe and can be a lot of fun for the intrepid traveler. This is about as close Known as the ile de la cite. Some people tell me that they refuse to go to the area because it can be so crowded and loud. medieval alley always seems to be crowded with street performers and resauranteurs competing for your tourist money. Notre Dame was begun in 1163. an incredibly tiny playhouse that’s been staging the same two plays by Eugene Ionesco every night for more than 30 years. Crypte Archeologique and the Conciergerie are all covered by the museum pass . a narrow street filled with boutiques. Michael slaying the devil. Place Saint-Michel opens to a large and imposing fountain featuring a statue of St. Saint-Michel and plunge into Rue de la Huchette. creperies. historical. The square itself is always crowded and is a good place to arrange to meet friends. Sainte-Chapelle. take a second and look up. To the right of the square is Rue St. In Renaissance France. you can’t see it. Although you’re only a couple hundred yards from the massive Notre Dame. This small. Early settlers including the Parisii tribe and Roman conquerors realized the strategic importance of controlling this central location. nor can you see anything else in Paris. At number 23 you’ll find the Théatre de la Huchette. but touristy areas in Paris. It may be touristy. connected to the left and right banks by the Pont Neuf and featuring the Place Dauphin. Cross Blvd. and other small stores. Tours de Notre Dame. It’s been loud and crowded since medieval times because there’s a lot to see here on the left bank.90 ★★ Saint-Michel ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Line 4 Things to See ✔ Notre Dame ✔Sainte-Chapelle ✔ Conciergerie A Visit to Medieval Paris Pari History When you exit the Metro at Place Saint-Michel. though. cementing the island as the center of France. this island is the historical center of Paris. the island began to take shape.
pay attention to when the meals are cheapest. as long as you buy a drink. and walk towards the hulking grey church at the end of the block. Walking from one end of the town to another would have been exhausting. Our nostalgia for the past may decry this transformation. standing on the site of a church that dates back to at least the 6th century. and you’ll emerge on a busy street with Notre Dame looming just across the Seine. Take the left here onto St. he is instantly transported into an era that has long vanished. and follow it up to Metro stop Maubert-Mutualité. It’s not the original Shakespeare and Co. After leaving the church. and it continues to offer services. from Greek and Italian to traditional French. You won’t find gourmet food here. Séverin. Today little pockets of the past like this quarter are appreciated for their link a city that has mostly disappeared. continue on St. It’s one of the oldest churches in Paris. past the intersection with Rue Xavier-Privas. many of the restaurants change their prices from day to day. Go ahead and walk down the alley to its end. propped up by concrete). Severin. The building on the west end of Xavier-Privas was notorious brothel at one time. when one turns from a busy boulevard like Saint-Michel onto Rue de la Huchette. that published James Joyce’s Ulysses. . In about 20 meters you’ll see a very small street on the left. but if you’re trying to pinch Euros. The oldest part of the church dates to the 12th century. another narrow (mostly) pedestrian street. If you look closely at the signs in front of the restaurants. Turn back around and return Xavier-Privas and take that narrow street. Séverin and cross the road to the lively little Rue Galande. the beautiful little Square Rene Viviani is adjacent to the church. dark bar. as I’ve walked through the quarter. There you’ll find one of the oldest trees in Paris (planted in the 16th century and looking like it’s barely surviving. At number 52 you’ll find a small. this is the place to come. most of the ancient alleyways and crooked streets were transformed into the sweeping boulevards we have today. as well as a charming fountain and a wonderful view of Notre Dame. There’s a good selection of cheap restaurants here. Depending upon how busy there are. but now is full of vacation rentals and [relatively] cheap apartments. so if you’re staying in this area. The current Shakespeare and Co. When Baron Haussmann [see Metro line 3] modernized Paris in the 1860s. you’ll notice that many of them have the prices of the plat du jour taped on or written in erasable marker. Continue on Huchette. Immediately on your right after leaving La Guillotine you’ll see a road leading to the 13th century church Saint-Julien-le Pauvre. but I’ve had many a “Grec Complet”. Head back outside and go towards St. has kept up the avant-garde ethos of its namesake and remains a center for literary Paris. or backtrack to St. At night the basement of the bar hosts jazz concerts that are free. Head out of the park and take a left onto the busy frontage boulevard and in a few minutes you’ll come to a series of cafes and the busy bookstore Shakespeare and Company. that one was on Rue l’Odéon and is long gone. the narrowest street in Paris according to the historical sign marking its entrance. an inexpensive gyro heaped with fries. Michel. Foodies will turn up their noses at the many restaurants on this street. End your walk by backtracking to Galande. but imagine living in a city comprised solely of streets like the one you’re now on. This was the parish church for many of the students on the left bank. This is Rue du Chat-qui-Peche. However.91 As you can come to experiencing the medieval city of Paris. Inside the bar you’ll find an authentic guillotine against the right wall. Heading towards the Seine.
. so you may want to visit the Cluny medieval museum while in the area.92 Don’t Miss: Saint-Séverin Place Saint-Michel Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre Rue de la Huchette Rue Galande The tiniest street in Paris Shakespeare and Company Note: Line 10 stop Cluny-La Sorbonne is a short walk from Place Saint-Michel.
Point Zero When you stand about fifty feet in front of Notre Dame and look down. Notre Dame was begun in 1163. cementing the island as the center of France. Crypte Archeologique and the Conciergerie are all covered by the museum pass . The reason for this is. Sainte-Chapelle. Early settlers including the Parisii tribe and Roman conquerors realized the strategic importance of controlling this central location. clearly. you will see a round metal marker that says “Point Zero. Tours de Notre Dame. this island is the historical center of Paris. though. connected to the left and right banks by the Pont Neuf and featuring the Place Dauphin.93 ★★ Cite ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Line 4 Things to See ✔ Notre Dame ✔Sainte-Chapelle ✔ Conciergerie History Known as the ile de la cite. Notre Dame. the island began to take shape. It’s also truly the heart of Paris.” This is the point from which all distances are measured in France. In Renaissance France.
It’s an easy and relatively quick visit. Denis outside over the exit door. Skip the “treasures of Notre Dame” museum. After leaving the cathedral. although you can also locate audio tours for your IPod online. The other site to see is behind the cathedral. across from a crepe stand that I stop at every trip. I’ve always been left alone to contemplate the horrors of this dark period of French history. At the top you’ll have a magnificent view of Paris. He’s the one carrying his head—see Line 13.94 Outside of St. there are two other sites worth seeing in the immediate area. but it’s covered by the Museum Pass). The gargoyles and statues at the entrance add character (make sure to note the statue of St. the church is breathtaking. as well. Visiting the church is free. which on Sundays because the Marché aux Oiseaux. My suggestion is to do the loop on your own the first time. I hope you’ve devoted a full day to the island. Basilique St. make sure to climb the towers. Within its walls is the 13th century church Sainte-Chapelle is regarded by many as the most beautiful church in Paris. The audio walking tours do cost (available when you walk in). which costs extra and isn’t that exciting. narrow stone staircase (separate ticket required. Immediately to the left there is a flower market. On the other side of the square you’ll find an official looking building. This crypt features an archeological excavation of Roman houses and buildings. and requires climbing up a steep. the Palais de Justice. . you’ll find yourself in a busy square. Try to see the church at different times. Visitors are welcome during services. Peter’s in Rome. Architecturally. The line queues up just to the right after you exit. Denis for his story). because there is still much to see beyond the Notre Dame area. When you come out of the Métro stop on the island. If you are reasonably healthy. and it’s well marked in English. as well as a chance to see the famous gargoyles. Consider combining a Sunday morning mass at Notre Dame with a visit. although you have to pass through the Palais’ guard system to enter. During the afternoon the sun illuminates the Rose Window and creates a light show that is well worth seeing. Very few tourists ever seem to make it here. or bird market. and for good reason. on the extreme eastern tip of the island. and listening to the music can be an unforgettable experience. At the west end of the square in front of the cathedral you’ll find stairs leading down to the Crypt of Notre Dame. The flying buttresses outside were an engineering breakthrough that allowed medieval builders to create the massive structure. The walk is a must for The Hunchback of Notre Dame fans. Notre Dame is probably the most famous church in the western world. It’s a short but interesting tour. There’s a small park that leads to a very moving holocaust memorial.
If you go east from the statue instead. You can tour examples of the prison cells. To miss the Ile de la Cite is to miss Paris. such as the site of Abelard’s house (see line 3. whose statues now stands near the center of the bridge. I might consider skipping this. After exiting the Conciergerie. it’s now the oldest bridge in Paris. as well the chapel where Marie Antoinette prayed. From Henry’s statue you can continue west. turn left and head down the street to the Conciergerie. one of the oldest squares in Paris. to a peaceful park where one can take a boat tour of Paris. The museum pass covers the Conciergerie. Don’t underestimate the time that you’ll want to devote to this Métro stop. which runs parallel to the Seine. It was built under the command of Henry IV. Don’t Miss: Notre Dame Sainte-Chapelle Pont Neuf Conciergerie Prison Crypte Archeologique Holocaust memorial . Once part of a royal palace. consider walking to the street Quai de l’Horloge. the building is now best known as the prison where many of the victims of the French Revolution were held. down steep steps.” Ironically. It’s now open as a museum. Take a left on the street and continue two block to the Pont Neuf. Louis to the east for dinner. Exploring the few but interesting side streets on the island reveal other finds.95 After exiting the Palais de Justice. If I had to skip anything on the island because of time restraints. If you have only one day to spend in Paris. including Marie Antoinette. although history buffs should find it interesting. with a quick stop to Ile St. or “New Bridge. Gambetta) or the spot where Jacques De Molay was burnt at the stake. you’ll end up at Place Dauphin. spend the whole day on this island.
Les Halles was the central food market in Paris. the cemetery was dug up and the remains moved to the Catacombs (see Denfert-Rochereau. From the 12th century until the 1960s. If you don’t speak French. you’ll most likely end up in the large square that contains the Fontaine des Innocents. Continuing north will lead you to the Pompidou Museum of Modern Art—see suggested walk below. I always suggest making the initial connection elsewhere. ✔ Fountain of the Innocents ✔Central Paris Shopping Mall History For nearly a thousand years. Les Halles has served as the bustling center for Parisian business. look for v. However. a vast underground shopping complex continues the tradition of commerce in the area.96 ★★ Les Halles-Chatelet ★★★★★ Unavoidable Line 4 Things to See The Center of Paris For nearly a thousand years Les Halles (and its connected station. For this reason. there’s also a massive cinema multiplex.o. she’ll find that there is much to do in the area. too often a visitor’s first contact with these stations comes when she takes the RER into town from the airport and tries to transfer to another Métro line at Les Halles-Chatelet. This 16th century fountain by Jean Goujon marks the boundary of the former Cimitiere des SaintInnocents. if one returns to this area refreshed and ready to tackle the beast. Beginning in the 18th century. When you leave the underground. A massive and confusing nexus. and choose an American or British film. there are several interesting sites scattered among the McDonald’s and Nike stores that make up most of the area. If you find your way above ground. Five Métro lines and three RER lines converge in these stations. one that often hosts short but intense protests. and the tired. Chatelet) has served as the bustling center of Parisian business. on the marquee. lines 4 and 6) . even if it means one has to make two connections to get to her apartment or hotel. bewildered traveler is often left in a state of panic. indicating that the film is in it’s original language. Today. The Fontaine des Innocents stands in the center of a bustling square. Beyond the variety of mall shopping underground.
Inside the church. unfortunately). you can also tour Brancusi’s artist studio. Sulpice. if you arrive on the hour. look for the ornate tomb of Colbert. Along with the museum itself. Eustache The statue L’écoute The street market on Rue Montorgueil Suggested Activity If you don’t choose to explore Rue Montorgueil. Right behind the Pompidou you can connect with line 11 and station Rambuteau. a good half-day excursion can be planned around first shopping in Les Halles and then walking to the Pompidou Museum. Look for L’escargot at number 38. look for the statue L’écoute. watch the colorful Stravinsky fountain. a large head presented as if listening to those around it. with the golden snail atop the marquee. a minister to Louis XIV. and there are restaurants for all tastes and budgets. Beginning just to the east of the entrance to Sainte-Eustache. Before entering. and. See Line 11/Rambuteau for a more detailed explanation. visit the Church of Saint-Merri. The traditional gothic architecture is lightened with several renaissance touches that create a very different feeling than one gets in Notre Dame or St. or continue your excursion at the Museum of the Art and History of Judaism or the Museum of Dolls (Poupee].97 Perhaps the gem of the quarter is the gothic church Sainte-Eustache. you can begin a journey up the charming market street [see Markets in the introduction] of Rue Montorgueil. A ten-minute walk up Montorgueil leads to the Sentier station on Line 3 if you don’t want to backtrack. Don’t Miss: St. Children love to climb on it (and graffiti artists deface it. The area around Pompidou also has many cafes and . Some of the best patisseries and bakeries in Paris can be found on the street. watch the l’Horloge with its mechanical show.
although getting off at Etienne Marcel makes it somewhat harder to find the tourist sites. Les Halles forums. including Saint Eustache. blacks. Baron Haussmann’s concept of a uniform Paris laid out along the most imperial lines has triumphed—a Paris that is efficient. But in the cracks are those little forgotten places that appeal to the flaneur. Arabs—or mementoes of an earlier. modern and always impressive. and Rue Montorgueil. more chaotic and medieval France. Edmund White The Flaneur . gays. but use other stops Smack dab in the Les Halles area. Réamur-Sébastopol See line 3 Despite a few glitches. There are some fine restaurants in the area. Etienne Marcel makes a fine stop for exploring all that the area has to offer. clean.98 ★★ Etienne Marcel ★ A lot to see. The only compelling reason to use this stop would be to avoid the sensory overload of the Les Halles stop. the traces left by people living in the margin—Jews. as well as some bargain hotels.
or the fan museum (Atelier Hoguet. although some visitors may find the area a bit sketchy after dark. The museum focuses on fans from the 1700s to the present. the arch marks the royal road into Paris from the Basilica Saint-Denis (see Métro stop on line 13) and from other northwestern points. Tuesday and Wednesday. Le musée de l’éventail. Call 33 (0)1 42 08 90 20 to check before planning a trip. from 2 to 4 when I visited. It’s only open limited days and hours—Monday. Historically. and it shows how they were made. Other than the fan museum. the main reason to visit this area is to see the Porte Saint-Denis. History François Blondel erected the arch to celebrate Louis the Fourteenth’s military victory at Strasbourg in Germany. the Porte Saint-Denis was built in the 17th century on the spot where a gate allowed visitors into the medieval walled Paris. emulating the Roman tradition of erecting arches to celebrate military successes. Looking like a smaller version of the Arc de Triomphe. There are some good restaurants in the district. . 2.99 ★★ Strasbourg-Saint-Denis ★★ Worth a stop if you’re in the area Things to See Former City Boundary ✔ The Fan Museum ✔Porte SaintDenis Paris is full of museums that can be described as unique. Boulevard de Strasbourg). and at the Strasbourg-Saint-Denis stop you can visit one of the more unusual museums.
There is the kind who goes to see what there is to see. The local neighborhood is primarily African. there were crowds of young men in aluminum scarfs/hats crowing the sidewalks in front of hair parlors. although I’ve never had an issue. but come on the weekends to see it at its liveliest.100 ★★ Chateau d’Eau This is a lively. there are loads of shops here for you. threatening. but I think the second visitor sees more. and the kind who has an image in his head and goes out to accomplish it. The first visitor has an easier time. On my last stop. If you want hair extensions or your nails done. There is a daily (except Monday) covered market at 31 rue du Chateau d’Eau. as well as the loitering crowds in the Métro. There are two kinds of travelers. chaotic stop. Some people may find the crowds in the neighborhood. Adam Gopnik .
Unlike air travel. but purchasing “PREM” fairs in advance can save you substantial money. You can find the market on Boulevard Magenta. “Place” = your seat number. when I was last there. Avoid offers to help you buy Métro tickets or use the ATM. Tickets can generally be printed at home. butchers. However. It’s also a useful and relatively easy station to transfer Métro lines. • Keep an eye on the big board to see which platform you’ll be using.101 ★★ Gare de L’Est ★ Gateway to Germany & Central Europe History • Don’t arrive too early. there is little to recommend going out of your way to visit here. this is a good place to go if you’re already heading for the gare to meet a friend or go on a trip. The site is difficult to negotiate and entirely in French. Train Station and Marché If you’re heading to Germany or Eastern Europe. a second hand store. you may well find yourself in Gare de L’Est. cheese stalls. if you are here to travel. North African spice sellers. As with all train stations. keep a close eye on your belongings and avoid scam artists. given that it is a major train station. • Purchase food to go before you arrive at the station. and even. • On your ticket. • Be aware of scam artists and pickpockets. There are also seafood stands. Food at the station and on the trains is overpriced and forgettable. . try to arrive a little early and visit the nearby Marché Saint Quentin. Other than its romantic ties to the Orient Express. there aren’t massive queues to navigate. It’s a gem of a covered market and is open everyday except for Monday (only until 1:00 on Sundays) and offers a chance to get food to go for your trip. “voit”= train car number. While there are other marches that I’d rather visit (see LedruRollin stop on Métro line 8). Try to carry Euros with you before you get to the station so you don’t have to use the ATM.com/leisure/fr/launch/ home/. • You must have your passport with you at all times. • You can purchase tickets in advance from http://voyagessncf. Consider grabbing something at Marché Saint Quentin •Avoid the area outside at night.
• Purchase food to go before you arrive at the station. but there are plenty of people who hate it. and the trip takes only a little more than an hour. It’s much easier than flying. • You must have your passport with you at all times. • On your ticket. and you end up in the center of London—not some outlying airport. Check in for the Eurostar in 30 minutes prior to departure. there aren’t massive queues to navigate. I’ve never had an issue or even felt unsafe in the station or in the surrounding neighborhood (during the day).com/rail/rail_menu. However. •Avoid the area outside at night.102 ★★ Gare du Nord ★ Unavoidable but really not bad Hints for Train Travelers Eurostar and Beyond • Don’t arrive too early. Sometimes breaking up a long visit with a trip to London can remind you just how unique both cities are. This major rail and Métro terminus is the site of the Eurostar (don’t call it the Chunnel!) connection to London. scam artists and criminals. Food at the station and on the trains is overpriced and forgettable. • You can purchase tickets in advance from http://voyagessncf. • Be aware of scam artists and pickpockets. Try to carry Euros with you before you get to the station so you don’t have to use the ATM. “voit”= train car number. nearly 200 million people each year pass through Gare du Nord without incident. A note about the Eurostar: If you’re in Paris for more than a week and would like to take a day trip to London. A quick review of most online trip discussion boards will be enough to frighten the timid away from Gare du Nord and will convince you that the station is packed with pickpockets.ricksteves. Unlike air travel. Tickets can generally be printed at home. Day trips [or longer] can be purchased cheaply in advance from sites like http://www. but for other trains try to arrive around 15 minutes prior to departure.com/leisure/fr/launch/ho me/. but you should maintain vigilance in the station. • Keep an eye on the big board to see which platform you’ll be using. but purchasing “PREM” fairs in advance can save you substantial money. If you forget. there are sandwich shops on Rue de Dunkerque that will suffice. do consider the Eurostar. The site is difficult to negotiate and entirely in French. . “Place” = your seat number. Avoid offers to help you buy Métro tickets or use the ATM.htm. I’m not sure if anybody really loves Gare du Nord. and it’s also where trains depart for northern destinations like Belgium and the Netherlands.
this is the stop for you. unless you want to see the Ornano street market on Tuesday. Friday or Sunday. Edith Piaf . See the description in the chapter for Métro line 2.103 ★★ Barbes-Rochechouart ★★ See the thorough description of this interesting neighborhood in the chapter for Métro line 2. I lived in Barbes. Otherwise. Simplon ★There is little to recommend here for the casual visitor in this somewhat “iffy” neighborhood. the streets where the whores hung out. the downhill walk from here to BarbesRochechouart is the main reason to visit here. Marcadet-Poissonniers ★There is little to recommend here for the casual visitor. Chateau Rouge ★ If you want to buy a cell phone. Give it a pass if you’re heading out to the flea market. in Pigalle. in Clichy. in the chic sections of town. in the theater districts.
000 people will flock to the nearly 3000 stalls on a busy weekend. but it improves your bargaining position. •After you exit the Métro station. but a pick-pocketed passport will cause you a ton of grief. but try to come out between 10 and noon. and I suggest you look online for a map or description of the various areas in the flea market before visiting if you are looking for something specific. •Be sure to bargain. There are books and many websites devoted to the flea market. especially if you come out during the mad rush of early weekend mornings. Leave your passport at home. Every single guidebook will tell you to beware of pickpockets.104 ★★ Porte de Clingancourt ★★★ A MUST SEE FOR SHOPPERS ! Things to See Marche aux Puces If you are out in this area. this is the place to use it. The surrounding area is rather grungy. everything else is easily replaced. The restaurant can be found at 109 Avenue Michelet. I don’t have the space here to fully describe just how expansive the flea market is. •The flea market is open from Saturday through Monday. with the exception of Le Soleil—a recommendation of Frommer’s and Fodor’s. Money can’t by love. ✔ The Flea Market Les Puces Flea Market Hints •If you brought a neck wallet. but I’ve seen numbers suggesting that as many as 150. and the take a left of Rue des Rosiers. Most of the food that I’ve had at the flea market has been pretty bad. Bring just one credit card and only as much money as you think that you’ll need. Sellers expect you to ask for a lower price at most stalls. but the flea market is a gem. Christopher Marlowe . head north up Avenue Clingancourt towards (and underneath) the Périphérique. it’s most likely that you’ve come to see the world famous Les Puces de SaintOuen flea market. The neighborhood itself is out by the Périphérique. and it is not a place where you would come for any other reason. so I would be remiss if I didn’t warn you to be careful. Opening and closing hours vary.
Martin Spend several hours visiting Villette. Stop along the way for café crème and a pain au chocolat. it skips many of the most visited tourist destinations. Take at least an hour to stroll along the charming Canal St. the museums of science and music. Choose one of the restaurants and have a late lunch or early dinner before heading back towards the city center. 1906 Don’t Miss Gare d’Austerlitz Best access for visiting the impressive Jardin des Plantes. head across the Ourcq Canal towards the Porte de la Villette stop on line 7.105 Métro Line 5 Line 5 has few spots that immediately grab the tourist. Villette or the Jardin des Plantes Put in service June 2. but don’t miss the Canal St. but it offers access to much of the eastern half of Paris. and the impressive Grande Halle North-South Line Line 5 is a mostly unremarkable line that takes the tourist from Place d’Italie to the somewhat rough northeastern suburbs of Paris. Martin. Then head north to the Porte de Pantin. When you’re done. Martin. and spend your day exploring the many sites at Villette. best accessed via the Jacques Bonsergent stop. It’s worth seeking out some of the hidden gems on this line. Jacques Bonsergent Porte de Pantin Best Day Trip? Begin your day by taking an early morning hike along the Canal St. several museums. In doing so. . including the many themed gardens.
8 Richard Lenoir 9 3. and the science museum The church Pantin A shopping mall 10. the Geode. Rontonde de la Villette (interesting building) Northern section of Canal Saint Martin Street market Villette park complex. 7 4. Jardin des Plantes. 7 Austerlitz train station. RER B. 7bis Hoche Eglise de Pantin Bobigny-Pantin Bobigny Pablo Picasso 1 1 0 0 . E 2. 11 4. 7 2.106 Metro Stop Place d’Italie Campo Fornio Saint-Marcel Gare d’Austerlitz Quai de la Rapée Bastille Bréguet Sabin Richard Lenoir Oberkampf République Jacques Bonsergent Gare de l’Est Gare du Nord Stalingrad Jaures Laumiere Ourcq Porte de Pantin Stars 1 1 1 5 1 2 1 1 2 2 3 1 1 1 2 1 1 4 Destinations Busy bur unremarkable Connections 6. 8. rue de Lappe Five-minute walk to Place des Vosges Charming area Nightlife Place de la République Canal St. Bastille Opera. Martin Train station Gare de l’Est Train station Gare du Nord Place de Stalingrad. RER C 1. museum of sculpture in the plain air On the Seine Juillet Column. 12 thematic gardens. including the City of Music. D. 9.
107 ★★ Saint Marcel Unless you are visiting the Pitié-Salpetriere Hospital. one where you’ll often find inexpensive housing and food for those who don’t mind being away from the city center. although I would prefer to stay closer to the action. It’s a straight shot from here to the Périphérique. though. amongst other rental companies). and who is reputed to have stopped a monster from eating a corpse (ok. . there’s little reason to stop here. although you should avoid going south on Avenue d’Italie during afternoon rush hour if you wish to preserve your sanity. if you are pinching pennies). head south on Avenue de Choisy. and you will soon come to one of the biggest Chinatowns in Paris (and a good source of inexpensive food. If you are looking for something a bit different. it’s almost worth stopping because of that story alone!) Campo Fornio There is no reason for the casual tourist to visit this area. This is a decent enough area. The station is named after the saint who succeeded Saint Denis as the Bishop of Paris. Place d’Italie This very busy traffic circle has little to offer the casual tourist. Several times I’ve rented cars from this area when heading out of town (there’s a Hertz. Many penny-pinchers choose to stay in this area because it is a quick Métro ride (or a healthy but acceptable walk] away from the main LeftBank tourist spots.
I’m going to describe two possible itineraries. as you come into the station via the Métro. In the 1805 Battle of Austerlitz. either of which could easily command a half day of your visit to Paris. The gare itself is one of the six major railroad stations in Paris. you’ll arrive on a platform above the train station. Take time as you exit to get your bearing. Because of the size of the sites at this stop. or railroad station. but unlike the others. The gare. as well as to enjoy the scenic view of the Seine and the Jardin des Plantes quarter. Napoleon was vastly outnumbered the combined Russian and Austrian forces through tactical maneuvers that involved pretending to retreat in order to split the enemy force. was named after one of Napoleon’s greatest victories.108 ★★ Gare d’Austerlitz ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ Jardin des Plantes ✔Vibrant Open Air Market ✔Museé de la Sculpture en Plein Air History A link to the eastern portion of the 5th Arrondissment There is so much to see and do on the eastern edge of the 5th that it’s a shame so many tourists don’t make it out here—despite the fact that Notre Dame is still visible through much of this zone. .
for that matter). when the hedges and trees are in a dormant state. Feel free to wander though the eclectic collection. Ok.) You’ll also find many beautiful herbs. There is also a small zoo or menagerie. Exiting the train station. consider exiting at the south end of the park and walking to Métro stop Censier Daubenton or Jussieu on the number 7 line. you’ll soon come to the amazing museum Institut du Monde Arabe. you’ll soon be able to spy some of the animals in the zoo (this is much easier to do in the winter. If you continue on this side. flowers.109 Itinerary 1: Jardin des Plantes. which is described Don’t Miss: l’hotel de Magny. tour beautiful iron and glass hothouses. the area tends to be full of students studying or relaxing and enjoying the view. you’ll soon come up to the Musée de la Sculpture en Plein Air. There’s no admission fee (or any entrance. you should continue west on the Quai Saint Bernard. cavernous Grande Galerie de l’Évolution. this is a charming. The Grande Galerie is also known for it’s temporary exhibitions—look to see what’s on when you’re in town. Itinerary 2: A walk along the Seine. the 17th building in the Jardin devoted to the history of the garden. I know that for many people the idea of visiting a botanic garden while at Paris may not be at the head of your vacation plans. a relative new. you’ll have a nice view of the Seine and of the back of Notre Dame in the near distance. You can visit museums devoted to mineralogy. many of the zoo’s animals were slaughtered to feed the starving populous. the biologist and namesake of a stop on line 12. or entomology. If you walk on the Jardin side of the street. elephants and other massive animals. featuring life-size displays of giraffes. If you don’t want to backtrack. but the Jardin des Plantes is so much more than your garden variety (pardon the pun) botanic garden. including some that were planted in the early 17th century. and trees. or visit the amazing. particularly the statue of Jean-Baptiste Lamarck. outdoor sculpture museum. (Historical side note: during the Prussian siege of Paris in 1870. The many statues located throughout the garden. expansive park that is fun to meander through and explore. On the river side. Much like Villette to the north. . If you continue walking east. On a warm day.
The neighborhood itself seems very much to be an everyday Parisian neighborhood. which comes next. but to visit it you really should go to the Parmentier stop on Métro line 3. although it is a pleasant walk to the nightlife. invented a machine to mass produce wallpaper. Richard Lenoir This is a good area to find relatively inexpensive apartment rentals. If you head west. although I recommend you wait until the Gare d’Austerlitz stop. cars. This stop is farther away. Bastille See Métro Line 1 for description Quai de la Rapée This stop will deposit you right on the Seine. including the back of Notre Dame. In other words. . energy—is funneling south towards Place de Bastille. Bréguet Sabin The area around this stop is ok. The most obvious feature of this area is that everything—people. it’s charming. amongst other things. You have a good view of east Paris from here. The stop was named for an inventor and businessman who.110 ★★ Oberkampf The Oberkampf area is one of the trendiest nightlife areas on the Right Bank. once you get off of Boulevard Richard Lenoir. with little to make one stop while moving through the Métro system. You could easily cross the river here and visit the Jardin des Plantes and the Menagerie. See Métro stop Chemin Vert on line 8 for a Place des Vosges description. Place des Vosges is about a five-minute walk.
There are also numerous restaurants and shops along the way.5 km canal. “There are in Paris certain streets. After being involved in a street brawl with a German troop. After finishing your walk along the canal. Martin des Champs. “Paris in Ut-Mineur” .” Henry Miller. Trees provide shade for those who stroll any portion of this 4. and impress us by their physiognomy with certain ideas against which we are defenceless. Things to See ✔ Canal St. “as dishonorable as can be any man convicted of infamy. Bonsergent was take to Chateau Vincennes and executed.” wrote Balzac. Martin. there are murderous streets. streets older than the oldest possible dowagers … in short. plunge westward down Rue Dieu. which will take you west to the Republique Métro stop. you might want to consider heading south to Rue Faubourg du Temple. Martin ✔Walk to Republique An Enjoyable Walk One of the loveliest of places for stroll in Paris during the springtime has to along the Canal St. and a series of particularly appealing bridges span the canal in the area nearest the Bonsergent Métro stop. exploring the area around the church St. the streets of Paris have human qualities.111 ★★ Jacques Bonsergent/Republique ★★★ Two enjoyable walks through a nice neighborhood. Better yet. translating Balzac. leading to a busy square. The area then funnels you down towards the chaotic and busy Place de la République. History Named after the first Parisian private citizen to be killed by the Nazi forces in WWII.
Thursday and Sunday.112 Ourcq Named after the River Ourcq. Laumiere Named after a general in the 19th century Mexican campaign. although it is easier elsewhere. there is no reason for the casual tourist to visit this area that is well beyond Paris proper. this stop has little to recommend for the casual tourist. There is a street market on Avenue Jaures on Tuesday. Access to Buttes Chaumont is possible here. Jaures See Métro Line 2 Stalingrad See Métro Line 2 Gard du Nord See Métro Line 4 Gare de l’Est ★★ See Métro Line 2 .
113 ★★ Bobigny-Pablo Picasso This area is pretty far away from the center of Paris. there is no reason for the casual tourist to visit this area that is well beyond Paris proper. come explore the blue-collar shopping mall located here. Eglise de Pantin Pantin is a working class town outside of Paris. but if you want to experience everyday French life outside of the capital. Ourcq Named after the River Ourcq. The stop is named for a general in the Revolutionary Army and the Army of the Republique who saved Marie Antoinette (at least temporarily) from the mob that attacked Versailles. and it’s probably best avoided at night. Hoche There is no reason for the casual tourist to visit this area that is well beyond Paris proper. It’s nothing like the mall at Les Halles. and it’s not without its charms. you’re better off staying closer to the city center. Its proximity to several industrial centers and the periphery entice some people to stay here if they cannot find suitable Parisian accommodations. There is an unremarkable 17th century church here with an attached market. That being said. . Bobigny-Pantin There is no reason for the casual tourist to visit this area that is well beyond Paris proper.
The Museum Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie is covered by the museum pass . although there are a number of butcheries at the Porte de la Villette exit—as well as some good steakhouses. The Grande Hall itself was designed to house thousands of butchers. the Cité de la Musique. If you’re main goal is to the science museum (Cité des Sciences) or the Omnimax Theater in the Geode. and Porte de la Villette on line 7.114 ★★ Porte de Pantin ★★★★ A MUST SEE FOR KIDS AND MANY ADULTS! Things to See ✔ Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie ✔Cité de la Musique ✔The Geode ✔The Grande Halle ✔The 12 thematic gardens History If you look at most tourist guides. Given the size of the parc. you will be under the impression that Parc Villette is a place for children. or wander through the various thematic gardens and folies that are scattered throughout the park. but in actuality there’s a whole lot more for visitors of all ages to explore. There’s little to remind the visitor of this history. you should use the Porte de la Villette stop on line 7. but rather it is from the area’s history as Paris’ central slaughterhouse for much of the 19th and 20th centuries. whose product was then shipped throughout Paris by using the canal system that still runs through the center of Villette. many visitors enter at one end and exit on the other. This time the blood is not from the various revolutions and wars. The Porte de Pantin stop is recommended if you want to see the Grande Halle. The bucolic and fanciful nature of Villette belies its rather bloody history. There are two ways to enter the Parc—here at Porte de Pantin.
It’s certainly easy to continue through the park and cross the canal to see those sites. see the entry in line 7. Many concerts are also held here. It’s impossible to miss the large iron and glass structure. The massive building in the center of the park is the Grande Halle. there are plenty of fascinating exhibitions on topics of general interest. a wonderful museum devoted to the history and appreciation of all things musical.115 A visitor’s center greets you as you enter the Parc. you might consider two other attractions. as well as other spots in the park (such as the Zenith. A series of folies. and you can also purchase tickets to board the dry docked Nautilus submarine. particularly some of the train stations like Gare de l’Est. which run daily from April to September. An Additional Thrill: For family’s whose children want additional stimulation. but there are still many things worth seeing on this side of the water. the park’s loses much of its charm. There is a boat ride that leaves from the canal running through the center of Villette.” In the wintertime. and I do recommend getting a free map of the expansive park. While many of the exhibitions are about French musicians who may not be well know to visitors from other countries. . If you’re mostly interested in the Geode or the science museum. On the right side of the entrance is the Cité de la Musique. which is reminiscent of Haussmann-era architecture. or extravagances scattered throughout this side of the park. Concerts and events are now held in the Grande Halle. Métro Fun Fact: Some titles in this Métro are decorated with musical notes. Look for the explanatory sign by the canal for canal tours. such as the development of instruments and the history of opera. You can wander through the charming “alley of childhood fears” or explore the “garden of mirrors. in honor of the Cité de la Musique. which was the center of the butchery work that was done in the park starting in 1868.
creating an uncombined circle line similar to the one found in London. After visiting the Tower. and visiting any of those three places will take you to a more relaxed Paris than you’ll find closer to the city center. taking the tourist from the Arc de Triomphe through the middle of southern Paris. Butte aux Cailles. Much of the western part of the line is open and elevated.116 Métro Line 6 Line 6 provides access to both iconic sites and to quieter village life that the tourist often misses Put in service October 2. or head due east toward the Eiffel Tower. and Bercy. Immediately hop on the Métro and head to Trocadéro. The line mirrors Line 2. The line also offers access to three areas that still retain some of the village charm: Passy. finally ending at Nation. If interested stop at any of the museums in the area. . Trocadéro DenfertRocherau Bercy Best Day Trip? Begin your day at CDG-Etoile. 1900 Don’t Miss Charles de Gaulle-Etoile See the Arc de Triomphe. Hike up to the Butte aux Cailles and finish your day exploring the village and grabbing a bite at a small bistro. grab the Métro at Bir Hakeim (be sure to read the historical display about the Vel’ d’Hiv) and head to Corvisart. included the portion that goes near the Eiffel Tower. which does the same in the middle of Northern Paris. or spend time visiting the Cineaquarium or museums Spend several hours visiting the Catacombs and the rue Daguerre shopping street Wander through the parks and sites of Bercy Village North-South Line Line 6 runs mostly east-west. and wander down the Champs d’Elysée Go up the Eiffel Tower. hiking up the stairs to see the view of morning traffic circling dangerously around the Arc de Triomphe.
various minor museums. D. cinema museum 14 8 Promenade Plantée open. Clemenceau Eiffel Tower Avenue Grenelle for food. Champs Élysée Connections 2. Best access for the tower Balzac’s home and museum. near Montparnasse Cemetery Nice area with beautiful above-ground station Butte aux Cailles. church St. museums of wine. Bourdelle sculpture museum.117 Metro Stop Ch. 7 Mitterand Library Bercy Village. RER A Eiffel Tower. RER B 5. a charming neighborhood Busy bur unremarkable 12 4. raised walk Picpus Cemetery Picpus cemetery. John Baptiste de la Salle Montparnasse Tower and Observation deck. Cartier Foundation Museum (contemporary art and photography) The Catacombs. 10 3 3 Denfert-Rochereau 5 Saint-Jacques Glaciere Corvisart Place d’Italie Nationale Chevaleret Quai de la Gare Bercy Dugommier Daumesnil Bel-Air Picpus Nation 2 1 2 1 1 1 2 4 1 1 3 3 2 Pasteur Museum. Rue Daguerre market street. 12. entertainment 9 RER C 8. Passy Cemetery. Le Chemin (artist’s alley) Access to Montparnasse Cemetery Monparnasse Cemetery. Place de la Nation . 6. shopping. Paris Observatory. 13 4 4. Bartholdi’s Lion sculpture. Gaulle-Étoile Kléber Boissiere Trocadéro Passy Bir Hakeim Dupleix La Motte PicquetGrenelle Cambronne Sevres-Lecourbe Pasteur MontparnasseBienvenüe Edgar Quinet Raspail Stars 5 1 1 5 3 2 1 2 1 1 3 3 Destinations Arc de Triomphe.
. Boissiere A pleasant neighborhood.118 ★★ Charles de Gaulle/Etoile See Métro line 1 for description of this major stop. but few sites. Named after a French military commander who was assassinated in Egypt during Napoleon’s campaign there. Kléber A pleasant neighborhood. but few sites.
High on a hill… Most visitors experience the Eiffel Tower by taking the short walk from the Bir Hakim station.119 ★★ Trocadéro ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! 16th Arrondissment Things to See ✔ Eiffel Tower ✔Cimetiere de Passy ✔Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine ✔Palais de Chaillot ✔Cinéaqua History Once an open hill named Buttes Chaillot overlooking the Champs des Mars. The museum pass covers the City of Architecture. Jacques Carlu created the two wings of the Trocadéro in 1937 for the World Exposition. which also offers access to several museums and to a very interesting cemetery. . the area got its name when Louis XVIII staged a reenactment of an 1823 military victory over Spain at Trocadéro in southern Spain. but if you’re willing to walk an a little further you’ll be treated to this much more breathtaking approach.
Cross the street and you’ll find yourself standing under Paris’ most recognizable landmark. but at night it will take your breath away. and the Musee la Marine. . the weekly “what’s going on” guide to determine if any of the exhibits interest you. For those who enjoy cemeteries. dedicated to anthropology. the Cimetiere Passy is easily accessed from the Métro stop. It’s a beautiful walk at any time of the day. With each step the Eiffel Tower will seem to rise higher above you. perhaps partly because views of the Eiffel Tower abound. just in time for the 1901 Exhibition. so be sure to check Pariscope. or museum of the navy. People of Philadelphia presented the statue of Benjamin Franklin to Paris. Start your walk by pouring through the center of the two wings of the Trocadero. musicians. The impressionist Edouard Manet is buried in the cemetery. and acrobatic skaters. Adults are probably better off going to aquariums closer to their homes. stop and examine the barges and boats floating below you. you owe it to yourself to take time and do this walk. since one’s time in Paris is often limited. here’s your chance to wander through smaller versions of the architecture. Like the area at the top of Sacre Couer. There are temporary exhibits offered throughout the complex.120 Centered around the Palais de Chaillot are a series of first class museums. The Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine is a strange museum. If you have kids. as well as the composer Claude Debussy. This is a small and rather exclusive cemetery. look across the street (towards the tower) and you’ll see a familiar face. From many of the memorials you’ll have a view of the Tower. pausing to admire the formal gardens and the various fountains and pools. this is an area where you’ll often find street performers. you may want to explore Cinéaqua. At the edge of the balcony you’ll be rewarded with a gorgeous view of the Jardins du Trocadero and the Eiffel Tower—make sure you stop and get your picture taken here. If you’ve never taken the walk from the Trocadero Métro stop to the Eiffel Tower. an aquarium/”movieum” that features showings of animated films. If your trip doesn’t take you to see the great cathedrals outside of Paris proper. As you cross the Seine on the Pont d’lena. Wind your way down the steps and through the garden. including the Musee le Homme. one that presents the great building of France in scale. Before entering.
for which he earned the nickname “The Tiger”. . La Comédie Humaine (The Human Comedy) is his most famous work. like much of this neighborhood. you’ll soon come to a museum devoted to Georges Clemenceau. After about a fifteen-minute walk you’ll come to the Maison de Balzac. although there are three good “destinations” for those who need an excuse to wander through this lovely (and expensive) neighborhood. formerly a French prime minister. If you walk straight through the circle and take on right on Rue Benjamin Franklin. It’s often hard to get a feel for this in much of the Paris that visitors see. Upon exiting the Métro. overlooks the Seine. and includes information on his role in the Dreyfus Affair (he supported Dreyfus) as well as his actions a war minister in WWI. Head up the Rue de l’Alboni. Retrace your steps to the traffic circle. this stop is too often unfairly overlooked. you will find yourself in the small but lovely Square l’Alboni. but this time cross the circle and head down Rue Raynouard. Honoré de Balzac stands with Victor Hugo as one of the greatest French novelists of the 19th century.121 ★★ Passy ★★★ Lovely Neighborhood Things to See Charming Passy ✔ Maison de Balzac ✔Musee des Vins ✔Musee GeorgesClemenceau History The Passy Métro stop is the first of a series of above-ground stops on Line 6. This small garden spot. one known for its spas. The museum is situated in the house where he was born. until you get to a traffic circle. which is a great reason to visit Passy. Until the 1860s Passy was a separate village outside the walls of Paris. One of the great clichés about both Paris and London is that they are really just a collection of separate villages. Even then it was a rather exclusive community. Because of its proximity to the more famous sites accessed via Trocadero or Bir Hakeim.
or to return to any of the cozy cafés we passed in Passy for a late afternoon café and snack. Exhibits include a wonderful series of illustrations of characters from his books. perched as it is on a bluff overlooking the Seine.” Thomas Jefferson . where you will find the Musee des Vins at 5 Square Charles Dickens. as this small museum offers an interesting view into life in the 19th century. return back down Rue Raynouard. He spent most of his later years running from his creditors. and the rogue’s gallery of illustrations show that like Dickens. In many ways he was France’s Dickens. Look for the tiny. but your entrance fee will allow you to taste several wines after the self-tour which covers the history of wine making in France. usually uncrowded museum is free. but the loveliness was illusory for Balzac. which is. Balzac had an eye for character. When I take friends on the loop described here. it’s easy to either walk back up to the Métro stop and visit the Eiffel Tower [via either walking or Métro using Bir Hakeim or Trocadéro. Unlike the Balzac house this museum isn’t free. By the time we’re done tasting wine. This house looks lovely today. Entrance to this small.122 It doesn’t really matter if you know Balzac’s work. I usually find that it’s better to start in the early afternoon. it seemed as if the village had lost its patriarch. steep alley called Rue des Eaux. a rather important subject. After visiting Balzac’s home. Take this charming little alley (unless you have bad knees) down to river level. “When [Benjamin Franklin] left Passy. and he even had to use a false name when he rented this house. after all.
Lafayette or any of the other battles and soldiers commemorated in the Métro station names. but the view approaching the Tower is superior. Next time a friend makes a derisive comment about the lack of French military prowess. and it’s easy to pair a trip to Versailles with visiting the Tower. They eventually fought their way free. you also might want to visit the museum of Japanese culture nearby. They were later sent to Auschwitz. It refers to a fort in Libya where a ragged group of French soldiers held off Rommel for two weeks during WWII. despite being vastly outnumbered. Depending upon your interests. That’s not to say that this raised platform stop isn’t interesting. . “Tour Eiffel” is appended to the station’s name. DenfertRochereau. After all. you might do well to remind him about Bir Hakeim. Millions of tourists have gotten off at this stop to see the Eiffel Tower. You’ll get both at Trocadero. and if you’re going there. Georges Clemenceau.123 ★★ Bir Hakeim ★★ Use Trocadero to see the Eiffel Tower Things to See ✔Information on Vel’ d’Hiv ✔Maison de la Culture du Japon a Paris History Bir Hakeim is one of those names that I wondered about every time I passed through the station. My suggestion is that you don’t use this stop to visit the Tower—go two more stops to the Trocadero exit. My advice—skip the crowds and pushy souvenir sellers who set up here. Note: the RER C station is much closer to the Tower. then this would be convenient to continue on to the Eiffel Tower. There’s a moving display in the station that describes the round-up of Jewish citizens. who were then housed in the Veledrome (a place for bicycle races) that was nearby [it’s no longer standing.
there is little to see at this stop. Its proximity the Champs de Mars makes it a good place to rent a hotel room or apartment. but there are few places that the casual tourist would seek out. . Sevres-Lecourbe Named after the small village of Sevres. which is near the Métro stop. the place where Sevres porcelain originated. is quite good and offers better bargains than some of the major markets. La Motte Picquet-Grenelle When travelling through here I often stop for bite to eat. There’s really not much to see here at this station named after the general who governed the French part of India. which right on the outskirts of a vast college of medicine. The market is open on Wednesdays and Sundays.124 ★★ Dupleix Another raised platform. The Grenelle street market. This is a nice but undistinguished neighborhood. Cambronne A pleasant neighborhood.
where you’ll find the institute at number 25. John Baptiste de la Salle. John Baptiste de la Salle Scientific Agenda What do you do with a scientist in Paris? Take her to see these sites: ✔The Pasteur Institute ✔Marie Curie’s lab at the Institut Curie (RER B at stop Luxembourg) ✔The Royal Observatory at Denfert Rochereau (line 4) ✔The various museums at the Jardin des Plantes (line 5) . Louis Pasteur is best known for the process of pasteurization. ✔ Pasteur Museum ✔Elgise St. it does have some very nice stained glass windows. The Louis Pasteur Institution has maintained his final apartment. One other site worth visiting at this stop is the church of St. Don’t be put off by the notion of a private tour. It also has a unique series of steps leading to the entrance. and even to his crypt in the basement. The museum is usually open only on weekday afternoons. St. where you can take a private tour through his laboratory. Head down the Rue du Docteur Roux for several blocks. but you may be asked to provide identification. Although it’s not one of those old churches seeping with history. which is a shame. but much of what we know about preventing infectious germs from spreading comes directly from his work. John Baptiste de la Salle was a Catholic educator from Rheims. It’s worth the hassle.125 ★★ Pasteur ★★★ Good for science lovers! Things to See A Scientist’s Lab Most tourist maps don’t list the Pasteur Institute. his living space.
although I recommend using the Raspail exit. Denfert-Rochereau See the description of this exit in the chapter on Line 4.126 ★★ Montparnasse-Bienvenue See the description of this major station in Line 4. this station is situated by the northwest corner of Cimetiere Montparnasse. Raspail See the description of this exit in the chapter on Line 4. . where you can pick up a sandwich or crepe to take with you through the cemetery. On Wednesdays and Sundays it’s worth stopping here for the street market. Edgar Quinet Named after a French politician from the turbulent years in the middle of the 19th century. You can certainly visit the cemetery using this stop.
127 ★★ Saint Jacques The station at Saint Jacques is unique in having ticketing at the street level. . Few stops have this. there is little to recommend for the casual tourist at this stop. Despite the quaintness of the station.
located at Place Jeanne d’Arc. Chevaleret The area from Place d’Italie to Chevaleret is certainly fine. . Head up the Rue Eugene Atget to Rue des Cin s Diamants towards the art nouveau village that was once outside of Paris proper.128 Glaciere The Alesia street market runs on Rue de la Glaciere on Thursdays and Sundays. Place d’Italie See the description in the Métro Line 5 chapter. Corvisart If you’re up for a bit of a hike. Nationale The Jeanne d’Arc street market. The area from Place d’Italie to Chevaleret is certainly fine. is worth seeking out if you are in this pleasant part of Paris. the real thing to see here is the charming. but unless you want to see everyday Paris life outside of downtown. seemingly hidden village of Butte aux Cailles. there’s little reason to pause at these stops. It’s open on Thursdays and Sundays. and the Vincent-Auriol street market is worth seeking out on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
See Line 14. Cour St. which is named for a French general from Martinique who commanded Napoleon at the Battle of Toulon (Napoleon’s first major success).129 Quai de la Gare This is the most convenient stop if you’re going to visit the ultra-modern city that has sprung up around the Mitterrand Library. Dugommier There is little reason for the casual tourist to get off at this stop. Emillion stop on Line 14 (and the much lovelier Bercy). Bercy Bercy Village is one of those lovely little spots in Paris that one happens upon quite by accident. Daumesil There is little reason for the casual tourist to get off at this stop. which leads to the busy Place Félix Eboué. There is a street market on Wednesdays and Sundays at Place Lachambaudie. Emillion for a full description. This rather unlovely part of Paris is better approached via the Cour St. On Tuesdays and Fridays there is a street market on Boulevard de Reuilly. I came out for an exhibition in the nearby cinema museum and had to rub my eyes. .
and then take a left of Rue de Picpus. You’ll also find the final resting place of General Lafayette. See the chapter on Line 1 for more information. where over a thousand victims of the French Revolution are buried. . If you take this exit.130 ★★ Picpus ★★★ A MUST FOR HISTORY BUFFS ! Off the Beaten Path Burial Site for Victims of the Reign of Terror If you find yourself passing this Métro stop. Be careful not to mistakenly take Boulevard de Picpus when exiting the Métro. consider getting off to visit Picpus Cemetery. proceed west down Avenue de Saint-Mande for three blocks. a hero of the American Revolution. The main stop for the cemetery is the Nation stop onLine 1.
.131 ★★ Bel-Air If you’re in Paris during nice weather. Picpus See the description in the Métro Line 1 chapter under Nation. the Promenade Plantée is a magical place.5 kilometer garden path runs from near Bastille to just outside the Bois des Vincennes. I prefer to take the longer walk from Nation. use this Métro stop. This raised 4. The Bel-Air Métro stop is a good place to pick up the promenade. but if you’re in a hurry. Nation See the description in the chapter on Métro Line 1.
followed by ice-cream at Berthillon’s. where you’ll spend several hours exploring the garden and its museums. Louis. As soon as you’re across the river from the Ile St. but in the middle you’ll find famous museums like the Louvre and the Monde Arabe. the botanical gardens of Paris (including several museums and a zoo). 1910 Don’t Miss CensierDaubenton Spend at least an hour wandering the rue Mouffetard Plan a picnic at the Roman arena. Take time to sit and enjoy a breakfast an café crème. get off and cross to island. At either end of the line there isn’t much to see. parks like Villette and Buttes Chaumont. . and several famous churches. taking the tourist through many of Paris’ most iconic sites. After you’re done. Spend at least an hour exploring the island and then find a quiet restaurant for a dinner. Jussieu SullyMorland Palais RoyalLouvre Best Day Trip? It’s almost impossible to recommend just one day trip. Not surprisingly.132 Métro Line 7 Line 7 provides access to many of the most famous sites in Paris. and then use a map to chart a walking course to the Roman arena Lutece. this line is the third busiest in the system. but if pressed I might recommend this: start your day at rue Mouffetard (Métro Censier-Daubenton). churches and museums. North-South Line Line 7 runs mostly north-south. From there’s it’s an easy walk to the Jardin des Plantes. head towards the river and grab the first west-bound bus (you Métro pass or ticket is valid). wander through the Tuileries. Put in service November 5. or wander through the museums and gardens at the Jardins des Plantes Explore the Ile Saint Louis and the Arab World museum across the river Devote hours exploring the famous collection of the Louvre. the world-famous rue Mouffetard shopping street. the two island in the center of Paris. including parks.
6 10 1 14 3. 8 9 5 7bis Park Buttes-Chaumont Place de Stalingrad. museum at the mint Louvre. Hotel de Sens Pont Neuf. Gardens at the Palais Royal Palais Garnier opera house. Jardin des Plantes Rue Mouffetard. Jardin des Plantes access Roman-era arena Lutece. Roch. church St.133 Metro Stop All Stations from the Fork at Maison Blanche south Tolbiac Place d’Italie Les Gobelins Censier-Daubenton Place Monge Jussieu Sully-Morland Pont Marie Pont Neuf Palais Royal-Louvre Pyramides Opera Chausee d’Antin (La Fayette) Le Peletier Cadet Poissoniere Gare de l’Est Chateau-Landon Louis Blanc 7 bis loop Stalingrad Riquet Crimée Corentin Cariou Porte de lat Villette Stars 1 1 1 2 5 2 5 5 4 5 5 3 4 2 1 2 2 1 0 1 3 1 1 1 1 4 Destinations Connections Busy bur unremarkable Gobelins Tapestry Manufacutor/museum Rue Mouffetard. Medard. 5 All stops north of Villette 0 Villette park complex. Rontonde de la Villette (interesting building) 2. the ile de la Cité. museum of Freemasonry in Paris Church St. 12 thematic gardens. Square du VertGalant. the Geode. Memorial de la Shoah. including the City of Music. museum Monde Arabe Ile Saint Louis. Jardin des Plantes Ile St. Fragonard museum of perfume Galeries Lafayette and the shopping district Good market street. and the science museum Not recommended . Vincent de Paul Train station Gare de l’Est 5. Louis. Museum of Decorative Arts Church St.
but it also has a fork after Maison Blanche in the southern part of Paris. Those on a budget can also take bus 285 from here to Orly cheaper than the RER. The first three run along the Peripherique. To Villejuif-Louis Aragon Le Kremlin Bicetre: Villejuif Léo Lagrange Villejuif Paul Vailant-Couturier Villejuif-Louis Aragon To Mairie d’Ivry Porte d’Italie: Porte de Choisy Porte d’Ivry Pierre et Marie Curie Mairie d’Ivry These four stops along this fork are unremarkable. While there’s nothing to really draw the tourist’s attention. The five stops along this fork are unremarkable. I’ve listed the stations below. and each of the first three stations are connected to the Tram 3 line. Not only does it have the 7bis loop around the Buttes Chaumont park near Belleville. Ivry has all but disappeared into Paris proper. The areas served by these stops include many hospitals and sport centers.134 ★★ The Fork Line 7 is one of the more unusual lines in the Paris Métro system. This fork. . which doesn’t loop around. Ivry was the name of a small village that was located outside Paris. there are many buses available to the nearby Rungis food market (not generally open to public). was created to serve workers in the southern parts of the city. At the Villejuif-Louis Aragon terminus. Like many small villages that once existed. Léo Lagrange is named after a politician and supporter of athleticism in France—he organized a parallel set of Olympics in 1936 to counter Hitler’s use of the 1936 as a propaganda machine for Nazism.
the Gobelins manufactory and Butte aux Cailles. English speakers will still appreciate the amazing tapestries.135 ★★ Les Gobelins I’ve always had a soft spot for this area and often stay at a hotel at this stop whenever I’m in town for too short of a period to rent an apartment. This is a good area for the budget traveler to stay in. It’s a short uphill walk from the Métro station. so make sure to check its website before heading out (http://www. even if it lacks a large number of tourist destinations. where you can still see how royal tapestries for Louis XIV were made. Although the tours are in French. The one major tourist stop that it does offer is the Gobelins manufactory. Place d’Italie See description in the chapter on Métro line 5 for this busy but unremarkable stop. The area is a short walk away from Rue Mouffetard and the Luxembourg Gardens. A street market can be found on Avenue d’Italie on Thursdays and Sundays if you are in the area.culture.html).fr/fr/visiteurs-paris.mobiliernational. Tolbiac There’s little to offer for the tourist in this unremarkable neighborhood. although the Bobillot street market is worth visiting on Tuesdays and Fridays. . It’s located near the Rue de la Colonie a couple blocks southwest of the Metro. Maison Blanche There’s little to offer for the tourist in this unremarkable neighborhood. There is easy access here to Chinatown. and the restaurants and cafes in the area are dependable. This is the last stop before the line splits in two forks. The factory has limited open hours.gouv.
Medard ✔Jardin des Plants History In Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables. The history of the area goes back even further. . If you only visit one street market in Paris. and often goes to St. Jean Valjean spends a great deal of time hiding out in this area. though. It’s the only Roman Catholic church that offers absolution for cannibalism. which often featured pilgrims going into convulsions and eating dirt from the church ground. I like to sit across at the café across from the church and try to pick out the cannibals. make sure it’s the one at Rue Mouffetard. Medard’s. At the base of the rue is St. an ancient. I’m particularly partial to the rotisserie chickens and often pick up half a chicken for a picnic at the nearby Arenes Lutece. Mouffetard has everything a gourmand desires in Paris. dark church with an interesting history (and present). and can be traced to the Roman road coming into Paris from the east. Médard’s.136 ★★ Censier-Daubenton ★★★★★ Rue Mouffetard is a MUST SEE Things to See ✔ Rue Mouffetard ✔St. It was also home to the Jansenist religious movement. Built along an old Roman road.
and there’s not Métro at the top so you’ll want to take your time (not a problem here) to avoid tiring. Ernest Hemingway lived right off the Place Contrescarpe. If you’re ready for a restaurant meal. at 71 rue du Cardinal Lemoine. is enshrined. but it allows you access to three key areas: the Pantheon. Genevieve. checking out the specials advertised on chalkboard in front of each restaurant. but this is one of the spots where you can get a three-course meal at an affordable price in the Latin Quarter. This latter trip is farther. over the hill to the sites listed above. and then end my day with a meal in Le Depart St. The area up here is relatively far away from any Métro stations. Voltaire. where St. At the top of Rue Mouffetard you’ll come to the charming Contrescarpe nieghborhood. downhill to the Cluny. about halfway up Mouffetard you’ll come to the intersection of Rue Due Pot de Fer and Rue Ortolan. You can either retrace your steps to Place Monge. chocolate stores. marionettes. Metr2 . and a gem of a small museum await.137 Mouffetard stands upon a hill. Michel is also easy from the Luxembourg. wine merchants. If I had only one day to see Paris. and the Luxembourg Gardens. but as you head up the street you’ll soon encounter a delightful collections of boutiques and even small grocery stores. Be sure to walk several blocks up the street. Access to the Cluny medieval museum and the Place St. the stunningly beautiful Eglise Saint Etienne du Mont. or you can continue up the hill to the Pantheon and the area around the Luxembourg Gardens. Michel. Pot de Fer has a large selection of small bistros. and the menus tend to be pretty predictable. Stop and have a quiet lunch or a caffeine fix. where many of France’s greats are enshrined (including Victor Hugo. where statues. Fish stores. a small café down on the Seine. butchers and cheese sellers all line the colorful road up Mouffetard. I would devote six hours and wander through Mouffetard. Most of the restaurants here aren’t haute cuisine. and he writes candidly about the working-class drinkers in the cafes and bars of the neighborhood. bakeries. because you’ll soon have to decide how to proceed. so there’s a bit of the feeling of being in a lost village. until you find one that seems appealing. The vegetable and fresh meat markets tend to congregate closer to the bottom of the street. When Hemingway lived here this wasn’t a trendy neighborhood. one of the patron saints of Paris. and Louis Braille).
138 ★★ Place Monge Place Monge is a great exit for the Rue Mouffetard or for the Jardin des Plantes. Friday and Sunday an open-air street market takes place. both of which are described elsewhere in this chapter. . On Wednesday.
There is no charge to enter the Arena. Lutetia. The arena is tucked among the hills and buildings of the Latin Quarter. Today it’s hard to imagine thousands of Romans crowded into the Arenes Lutece to watch gladiators fight.C. It’s easy to pair seeing Lutece with a trip to the Jardin des Plantes (there’s an entrance further up rue Linné).139 ★★ Jussieu ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ Roman-era Arena Lutece ✔Jardin des Plantes Roman Paris There are still a few places where one can see the traces that the Romans left upon Paris. Even many of the existing roads are built along roads originally used by the Romans. Now the bucolic setting is perfect for a picnic. but also in the thermal baths uncovered at the Cluny and the archeological crypt museum that stands in front of the square facing Notre Dame. Traces of that settlement live on not only in the Arena Lutece. The Romans settled the city around the 1st century B. Line 7). Often impromptu soccer matches or old men playing boules serve as a more gentle form of entertainment. Picking up lunch on Mouffetard and heading to Lutece is one of my favorite outings. or as they called it. . Be sure to look carefully at the map in the Métro station before leaving—you’ll want to head up rue Linné until you come to rue des Arenes. or with a visit to rue Mouffetard (see Place Monge.
but if you’re in a meandering mood. I’ve covered the island elsewhere.140 ★★ Sully-Morland ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ Musée de l’Institut du Monde Arabe ✔Ile Saint Louis Eglise SaintLouis en l’Ile Paris has always drawn some of the best architects in the world. a tradition that continues today. won the prestigious Pritzker Prize (sort of the Oscar for architects) in 2008. take the rue in the center of the island east towards the small but charming church of Saint-Louis en l’Ile. Eiffel and the many other architects who’ve given Paris its distinctive look The Monde Arabe is covered by the museum pass When you exit the Métro. . He’s also the architect who created the Fondation Cartier museum (see line 4. Mansart. stop Raspail) and the Branley museum (see line 9. so don’t rush! The island’s small and worth exploring. head to the bridge Pont de Sully and walk across the tip of Ile Saint Louis. If you continue across the river. stop Alma-Marceau). Jean Nouvel. the Monde Arabe (Arab World) museum and institute shows how modern architecture can compliment and even stand out in today’s Paris. While much has been made of modern architecture that doesn’t fit with Paris. There are a number of small restaurants and botiques in this quiet corner or the Paris. you’ll soon see the Institute du Monde Arabe ahead. It’s always hard to predict how future generations will rank modern architects. but one assumes that Nouvel’s name will join the ranks of Garnier. the architect who created the Monde Arabe.
which is a mistake. Cardinal Lemoine. There’s a small boutique just opposite the entrance to the main building. This area around the Contrescarpe offers a glimpse at a smaller. and you could easily continue down to the Jardin des Plantes (see Line 5. Alternative stops Métro line 7. then get off here. with a small restaurant attached. almost forgotten part of Paris. Metr2 . Combining this with the Monde Arabe is a good idea if you don’t mind walking up hill—or taking a bus. This is a good terminus if you are coming from Sully-Morland. Even if you don’t stop into the museum. or head westward towards the Latin Quarter. Gare d’Austerlitz). you should take some time to explore the grounds around the building. high amongst the hill that the Pantheon sits on top of. The informal cafe serves sweet Moroccan tea and pastries from the Middle East amongst traditional sofas and chairs.141 Many tourists ignore the Monde Arabe. One recent exhibition was devoted to Napoleon’s Egyptian campaign. you can easily head towards the Jussieu stop on Line 7 and see the roman arena. Along with its permanent collection. If you’d like to pair the Monde Arabe with the Arenes Lutece. If you head east along the Seine you’ll soon come to the open-air sculpture museum. Métro line 10. Be sure to examine the mechanical irises that open and close automatically to let light into the building. Métro stops are somewhat spread out in this area. but there are regular buses running along the Seine and towards the Latin Quarter if you should get tired. Similarly. the institute hosts some of the best temporary exhibitions. Jussieu. There are lots of things to do in the area surrounding the institute.
This 15th century building now houses a library. it’s one of the most charming places in all of Paris. small bistros and the small but charming Eglise Saint Louis en l’ile await discovery.142 ★★ Pont Marie ★★★★ Gateway to Ile Saint Louis Things to See Like many of the stops that surround the two islands in the center of Paris. Although there are no “crucial” tourist sites on the island. On the second Sunday of every month there is a guided tour offered in English. The Hotel de Sens is one of the best preserved medieval structures in Paris. it meets at 3:00 in the lobby and doesn’t require reservations. the museum offers insight into the trials of the Jewish people in France. but its lovely gardens are worth a quick stroll. On the other hand. Louis. The other place to visit in the immediate area is the Mémorial de la Shoah. Paul Métro stop on line 1. of course. check out the entry on St. Hotel in French doesn’t always denote what we think of a hotel—often it just refers to a large house or mansion. Hidden boutiques. you might consider heading across the river to the Ile St. there are two immediate places worth visiting. There are. the Pont Marie dates back to the 17th century. The tour is free. a museum devoted to the Jewish experience in France. If you’re heading that way. ✔ Hotel de Sens ✔Ile Saint Louis ✔Memorial de la Shoah History Named for its architect. Along with a center devoted to researching victims of the Nazi purge. or do you turn your back to the river and jump into the Marais? If you’re heading away from the river. . the Pont Marie offers a look at how Paris has changed over the ages. many more things to do in the Marais. It also invites you to create your own itinerary: Do you cross the bridge and plunge into ile Saint Louis.
History fans will also find a plaque here commemorating Jacques Demolay. Pont means bridge in French. where one can begin a boat tour of Paris—or on a pleasant day. but it was actually Henry IV who oversaw the bridge’s opening in 1607. Ever since it opened it the early 17th century. as well as the pedestrian benches placed to encourage lingering. Directly on the other side of the bridge is the nearly hidden Place Dauphin.” and the Pont Neuf is anything but new. three years before his assassination nearby. the Grand Master of the Knights Templar who was burned to death nearby. In actuality. was executed where Hotel de Ville now stands.143 ★★ Pont Neuf ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Line 13 Things to See ✔ Pont Neuf ✔Square du VertGalant History Pont Neuf is a misnomer as a name. it’s the oldest bridge in Paris. this beautiful bridge has connected the left and right banks of Paris. Ravaillac. It was commissioned by Henry III. lazily watch the city at work. On the island itself there is a large statue of Henry IV. one of the oldest (and most charming) public squares in Paris. as it affords beautiful views of Paris. but Neuf is the word for “new. Musée de la Monnaie is covered by the museum pass. overlooking the Square du Vert Gallant. Every tourist should cross the bridge. His assassin. Be sure to stop and admire the sculptures built into the side of the bridge. . which is right on the money. including the Louvre and Eiffel Tower and the Ile de la Cité.
but I would encourage anyone linking these two stations to take some time to explore the church of Saint Germain l’Auxerrois. All around the station you’ll find oversized renditions of French coins. the Hotel de Monnaies. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre of 1572 begin here. Michel or Cité stops. one could easily make a day by linking this with the Musée du Louvre/Palais Royal Métro stop. On the other hand. dark church with a similar dark past. in honor of the nearby mint of Paris. of course. French basketball player Tony Parker and the American actress Eva Longoria were married here recently. with the church’s bell being the signal for Catholic faithful to begin slaughtering Protestants. The Louvre itself is. although it’s rather too dark to appreciate the art. a must-see destination. One could easily plunge into the many sites of the Ile de la Cité from here—see the full description in Chapter 4’s entry on the stop Cité. or take a bus. Metr2 . and at the very least most visitors will find the botique a good place to find unusual gifts. Don’t Miss: The various statues of faces on the side of the Pont Neuf Square du Vert Gallant and Place Dauphin The Botique at the Musée de la Monnaie The Métro station Pont Neuf is one of just a few specially decorated stations. It’s a massive. so you’ll either need to retrace your steps. If you choose to visit the mint. The St. head east to the St.144 There’s a lot more to see at this stop. Anyone interested in numismatics may well find that the various exhibits they offer are worthwhile. there are no Métro stations in the immediate area. and how you proceed will depend a lot upon what you want to do next. Inside the church has a number of interesting sculptures and carvings.
.145 ★★ Palais Royale-Musée du Louvre See the chapter on Line 1 for a full description of this major tourist destination.
It’s the newest of the Métro lines.). Roch. this is a quick way to get there! . head east to the Jardins du Palais Royal. It’s gathered art together from many other churches. Roch it would be easy to walk south on rue St. On Wednesdays and Saturdays be sure to check out the Saint-Honoré street market at Place du Marché Saint Honoré. has been retrofitted with the tourist in mind. designed the church in the 18th century. Lemercier. Anyone who has squinted to make out details in a dark church will appreciate this approach. Roch to the Louvre’s garden. and it remains a beautiful and peaceful part of this bustling quarter. and after leaving St. You’re in the immediate vicinity of the Louvre and the Tuileries here. but what’s really distinctive is the backlit glass panels at the front of the church depicting and describing. and it’s designed to be driverless and rapid. gothic. though. but what’s really neat is how the church displays its art. dark.146 ★★ Pyramides ★★★ A church for art lovers Things to See A church designed for art lovers ✔ Eglise St. To see another less visited but equally impressive garden. The church has a distinctive Romanesque front. Feeling Impetuous? Line 14 is nicknamed “The Meteor”. beautiful art that’s hard to see. If you are interested in seeing the village of Bercy. in French and English. etc. The garden originally was created in 1629. so it has an impressive collection. what’s in the paintings. St. Roch ✔Jardins du Palais Royal ✔Sainte-Honoré street market History There are so many churches to visit in Paris that after awhile they have a tendency to blend together in your memory (large. who also designed the Louvre.
It’s a pleasant walk in the evening if you enjoy city streets. The walk will eventually lead to the area around l’Opera. it’s worth stopping! Opera This stop will deposit you in the middle of the Opera District. See Line 3/ Havre Caumartin and Line 3/Opera for more information on the area. this is the best stop to use to access the Galeries Lafayette. . this is the best stop to use to access the Opera Garnier. I like the walk from Cadet down Rue la Fayette. Chaussee d’Antin (La Fayette) This stop will deposit you in the middle of the Opera District. As the name suggests. As the name suggests.147 ★★ Le Peletier This is a pleasant if rather unremarkable neighborhood. See Line 3/ Havre Caumartin and Line 3/Opera for more information on the area. If you like to shop and find yourself in this station.
The market itself is probably not enough to justify a separate trip if you’ve already been to Rue Cler. Baron Haussmann’s engineer. one where you can find artisan cheeses. and they soon became quite prosperous. Also in the area is the lovely Square Montholon. At 16. non-touristy market street. Rue Daguerre or Rue Montorgueil. it’s worth a good half hour stop. the theater now houses traditional theatrical productions.148 ★★ Cadet ★★ Stop if in the area Things to See Market street & more ✔ Rue Cadet Market Street ✔Folies Bergere Theater One of the more pleasant market streets in Paris can be found at Rue Cadet. . but if you find yourself speeding under the area. you can find the Musée due Grand Orient. or public road to the dump. This is a relaxed. the lovely little square features some interesting statues and a slice of Paris that few tourists see. History This charming little street is named after the family that owned the land when it was the Route de la Voirie. Designed by Alphand. There’s a wonderful chocolate store at the end of the market street. rue Cadet. Once famous for its risqué show and home to Josephine Baker’s Banana dance. At this stop you can also visit the historically famous Folies Bergere. The Cadet family used compost from the dump to enrich the soil. unique wines. a museum devoted to the history of Freemasonry in Paris. The museum may be undergoing reconstruction. so be sure to call before visiting (45 23 20 92). and various other goods.
It’s easy to pair this stop with Square Montholon and the market street Rue Cadet. Tips for visitors There’s nothing quite like attending a classical concert in one of Paris’ famous churches. but the savvy visitor can pick up Pariscope magazine from any tobacco stand.149 ★★ Poissoniere ★★ Stop if in the area Things to See St. The church is a wonderful place to attend concerts. Rue la Fayette. . there was a free string quartet concert the last time I visited. I snap a quick digital photo to help me remember. Vincent de Paul ✔ Church St. The front of the church is particularly lovely. where the stop is located. If you visit. it’s easy enough for an English-only tourist to navigate through the magazine. If I see an advertisement for a concert that looks interesting. Greek-revival church dates back to the early part of the 19th century. although work was interrupted by the 1830 Revolution. Vincent de Paul This lovely. Inside the church has an almost golden glow. be advised that the front entrance is often closed when the smaller back entrance is open. terraced parks provide playgrounds for children. You can find broadside advertisements on walls throughout the city. as a series of small. Also keep you eyes open as you visit churches. slopes downward towards the Cadet stop. Although written in French.
Stalingrad See chapter on Line 2 for information on this stop. there’s no reason to visit here Gare de l’Est See chapter on Line 4 for information on this stop. . Louis Blanc See the entry in the chapter of 7 bis/Buttes Chaumont. In other words.150 ★★ Chateau-Landon This stop is in the the shadow of the Gare de l’Est and has all the charms one usually finds near train stations.
The stop is named for a 17th century French engineer famous for building canals. and thus are good places for a walk along the water.151 ★★ Corentin Cariou The stops between Corentin Cariou and Stalingrad all run parallel to the Canal de l’Ourcq and the Bassin de la Villette. The Riquet covered market runs everyday day except Monday. Riquet See description above. a war that allied much of Europe against Russia. Stalingrad See description in the chapter on Line 2. stop by the Joinville street market near Rue des Ardennes. The stop is named for the Crimean War. If you’re in the area on Thursday or Sunday morning. and most days they are open later than many other covered markets. Martin is more charming than this more blue-collared area. although the neighborhood around Canal St. . Crimée See description above.
There’s little to remind the visitor of this history. For families with children. The Grande Hall itself was designed to house thousands of butchers. and the cafés are often much cheaper than closer to town. This entrance is the closest one to the massive Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie. and there are some unpretentious restaurants where you can get not only a wonderful steak. whose product was then shipped throughout Paris by using the canal system that still runs through the center of Villette. a science museum chock-full of interactive displays and exhibitions. but where you can also get classic and more adventurous meals like rognons de veau (veal kidneys) or tete de veau (calf’s head). This time the blood is not from the various revolutions and wars. but rather it is from the area’s history as Paris’ central slaughterhouse for much of the 19th and 20th centuries. although there are a number of butcheries at the Porte de la Villette exit—as well as some good steakhouses. . there’s enough to do here to warrant a full day. A number of butchers still operate in the area. The Geode offers Omnimax movies. The area’s history as Paris’ butchery can still be seen as you exit the Métro station. The Museum Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie is covered by the museum pass See the Porte de Pantin entry on Line 5 for a full description of this child-friendly park.152 ★★ Porte de la Villette ★★★★MUST SEE FOR THOSE WITH KIDS Things to See ✔ Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie ✔The Geode History The bucolic and fanciful nature of Villette belies its rather bloody history. and there’s also a planetarium on this side of the canal.
each with a different spectacular view of Paris. From the top of this hike you’ll look out over Paris towards Sacre Couer. You can’t miss it. Botzaris. pictures that we’re sure put our Vegas wedding pictures to shame. there weren’t any Elvis impersonators at Buttes-Chaumont! . Place des Fetes ★★★ Worth a trip for return visitors to Paris Things to See ✔ Beautiful outdoor park ✔ Romanesque temple ✔ The Grotto A Day at the Park If you make the trip out here you’re probably coming for one thing and one thing only—the park.153 Buttes-Chaumot. Then again. If you hike up just one of the hills. There are a series of strenuous but short hikes up to various high spots. with a lovely view of the lake below. make it to the top of the pagoda-like structure at the center of the park. The last time we visited the park there were several wedding parties taking pictures in the park. Visitors can also explore one of the grottos left over from the mining days and walk around the lovely lake at the bottom of the park. Buttes Chaumont is built on a large hill (hence the butte in the name) overlooking the busy streets of Paris.
transforming a barren landscape into a place for urban escape. We’d work off the lunch by vigorously hiking up to the pagoda. 2 . which will connect to Metro line 5. and we wouldn’t leave until all the joggers made us feel guilty for our slothful ways. There are also numerous bus lines at Place Mairie de Paris if line 5 isn’t heading in your direction. There is a elevator at the bottom of the station. but it’s primarily for handicap access. we’d pick up a rotisserie chicken. stopping by the grottos on the way out. We’d walk down to the entrance of the park. you can get out at the Botzaris station or the Place des Fetes station. as part of Baron Haussman’s project to revitalize Paris. A long. It opened in 1869. leisurely lunch would give us time to soak in the scenery. You’ll have to walk a bit farther to get to the park entrance from Place des Fetes. so make sure that you start at the top of the hill by taking the Buttes-Chaumont or Botzaris station. and then find our way up to the top of any one of the buttes. Alternatively. History History The park was built on the site of a quarry. After exiting the park. bottle of wine. and three or four cheeses from the street market and shops in the area. After getting out at Place des Fetes. The Buttes-Chaumont station leads right to the highest spot on the middle of the top of the park. Practical Information This can be a strenuous hike. but it’s all downhill. The only problem is that there are a lot of steps leading out of the station. A lot. and then wind our way down to the lake. It’s an easy couple of blocks downhill to the Laumiere station.154 Issue #: [Date] Favorite Stroll: This is how we’d spend our Sunday morning stroll. we’d cross the square at Place Mairie de Paris and head down rue Lumiere.
there is no reason to visit any of the first three stops on the northern part of line 7. Fort d’Aubervilliers Unless you’re looking to see the grittier side of the outskirts of Paris. is a path. Aubervilliers-Pantin/Quartre Chemins Unless you’re looking to see the grittier side of the outskirts of Paris. there is no reason to visit any of the first three stops on the northern part of line 7. This stop is named for the commune La Courneuve and for VE Day in WWII.155 ★★ La Courneuve 8 Mai 1945 Unless you’re looking to see the grittier side of the outskirts of Paris. and the name refers to four roads that intersected here on the outskirts of Paris. by the way. . A “chemin”. there is no reason to visit any of the first three stops on the northern part of line 7.
Jump back on the Métro and take the next stop. which runs parallel to Line 9 on Haussmann’s grand boulevards area of Paris. . providing access to many of the neighborhoods on the outskirts of Paris. Finish your day exploring the museums and buildings in the Marais. including Napoleon’s tomb and an impressive military museum. La Tour Maubourg. although it also has a severe north-south drop. finishing the day with dinner at any of the small restaurants in the area. This will take at least one hour. where you can begin the day with some pastries and café at any of the small restaurants or patisseries in the area. Most tourists will use the line to access the sites around the Invalides area on the left bank. Monet’s Water Lillies in l’Orangerie Explore the impressive Madeleine church. Afterwards. as well as the many museums in the Marais North-South Line Line 8 runs mostly east-west. 1913 Don’t Miss La Tour Maubourg Spend several hours exploring the Invalides complex Visit an ancient Egyptian Obelisk. where you can tour the many sites at Invalides. Concorde Madeleine Chemin Vert Best Day Trip? Start out early by stopping at École Militaire and walking to the rue Cler. as well as secondary sites worth visiting on return trips to Paris Put in service July 13. you can either walk 10 minutes to the Rodin Museum (see Varenne on Line 13) or continue to the Marais district via Chemin Vert. although there are also many interesting stops in the middle.156 Métro Line 8 Line 8 provides access to several key sites. then stop for a macaroon at Laudurées An easy walk takes you to the Place des Vosges.
rue de Lappe Marché Aligre shopping area. shopping Shopping. Greven museum (wax museum) Pleasant neighborhood The fan museum. 5. including Napoleon’s tomb. Place de la Concorde. 14 9 9 9 4. Musée de l’Orangerie (Monet’s Water Lilies) Madeleine church. Sébastian-Froissart Chemin Vert Bastille Ledru-Rollin Faidherbe Chaligny Reuilly-Diderot Montgallet Daumesnil Porte Dorée Porte de Charenton École Vétérinaire des Maisons-Alfort All other stops after Liberté Stars 2 1 1 1 2 3 4 2 5 3 2 2 2 2 1 2 2 4 2 3 1 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 Destinations Parc André Citroen Church St. 5 9 1 Reuilly garden 6 Access to Bois de Vincennes. Ladurée. theater district. 10 13 1. shopping. athletic stadiums Fragonard museum (animal skeletons) . shopping Cafés. Dome church. 9 3. restaurants. zoo. Jean Baptiste de Grenelle Avenue Grenelle for food. entertainment Rue Cler street market Invalides complex. 12 12. north Marais district Not too far to Place des Vosges and the Marais sites Juillet Column.157 Metro Stop Balard and Lourmel Boucicaut Félix Faure Commerce La Motte PicquetGrenelle École Militaire La Tour Maubourg Invalides Concorde Madeleine Richelieu-Drouot Grands Boulevards Bonne Nouvelle Strasbourg-Saint-Denis République Filles du Calvaire St. aquarium. Saint Denis arch Place de la République Near Oberkamp night-life. lake Access to Bois de Vincennes. Bastille Opera. Cirque d’Hiver in winter Not too far to Picasso museum. Air France museum Obelisk. army museum Alternative access to Invalides. historical site of Foundlings hospital Connections 6. 11 1. 9.
This bucolic area is dominated by the Parc André Citroen. Lourmel was a brigadier general who was killed in the Crimean War. The western part of the park leads to the seine. but the area has an abundance of area for outdoor entertainment. . If you are in Paris during pleasant weather. but there are also some good bistros and restaurants in the area. Although it lacks celebrities that non-French visitors will probably know. you’d never guess that this area was once the home to the Citroen auto manufacturing plant. offering paying customers another way besides the Eiffel tower to get an expansive view of Paris. the lovely cemetery has a number of remarkable statues and interesting tombs. and the park advertised wi-fi access.158 ★★ Balard and Lourmel ★★ A good stop for park lovers Things to See Looking at it now. The last time I visited. I’ve linked Balard and Lourmel together because both offer good access to Parc Citroen. The other reason to stop here is to visit the Cimetiere Vaugirard. and it makes sense to exit at one stop and then reenter the Metro at the other. most famous for discovering the element bomine. For the last few years a hot air balloon has been tethered in the park. ✔ Parc André Citroen ✔Vibrant Open Air Market History Antoine Balard was a scientist and chemist. Joggers and bicyclists seem to own the area in the mornings and afternoons. strolling through the expansive park will offer you a respite from the traffic and queues found in the city center. public ping-pong tables were available.
It’s a nice neighborhood today. The church also makes for a rather intimate concert hall. others like Commerce fail to inspire. Felix-Faure As soon as you exit the Métro. if you happen to be visiting when a classical concert is planned. Otherwise. Susan Plotkin notes that the name came from this area being the main business street in the town of Grenelle. don’t bother stopping here as there’s little to see. the founder of the great department store. but there is little reason for the casual tourist to stop here. take time out to think of Aristide Boucicaut. you’ll see the church of st. Head instead to the Bon Marché.159 ★★ Boucicaut If you shop at the Bon Marché while in Paris. Although a relatively modern church (founded in the 1920s). which stood just outside of Paris proper. La Motte-Picquet Grenelle See full description in the chapter on Métro line 6 . Jean Baptiste de grenelle. which is at the vaneau stop on line 10. Commerce While some Métro station names instantly capture your attention (Kremlin? Villejuif?). it has some remarkable stained glass.
Olive Oils. including Oliviers & Co. Its most famous alumnus is Napoleon Bonaparte. It’s a permanent shopping street with a number of gourmet shoppes and cafes. Metr2 . Also in the immediate area is the shopping street Rue Cler.160 Ecole Militaire That imposing building facing the Eiffel Tower from across the green expanse of the Champs de Mars is the Ecole Militaire. The Ecole Militaire is not open to the public. The Métro lets you off on the north side of the Champs. There are a number of tourist hotels in the area. who graduated from the academy in 1785. which makes for a fine walk up to the Tower (which I recommend seeing via the Trocadero stop on line 6. so military fans should head to the next stop to see Invalides instead. or Military School/Academy.
his remains were returned to Paris in the 1840. a beacon calling the tourist. was built in the 17th century. Although originally buried in St. . which was designed by Libéral Bruant and Jules Mansart. and important event that led to other countries codifying laws so citizens could expect justice. the Marquis de LatourMaubourg. in six coffins seated on a granite base. including the implementation of the Napoleonic Code. originally as a soldier’s hospital—a function that it still serves. Helena where he was exiled. a highly decorated solider and statesman. An ornate series of basrelief carvings commemorate his many military victories and civil feats. but there is much more to the complex.161 ★★ La Tour Maubourg ★★★★ MUST SEE FOR MILITARY OR FRENCH HISTORY BUFFS! Things to See ✔ Napoleon’s Tomb ✔Musée de l’Armée History This stop is named after Marie Victor de Fay. The complex. He was wounded several times in various battles Napoleon’s Tomb and Invalides is covered by the museum pass The golden dome of the church as Les Invalides can be seen throughout much of Paris. Napoleon is buried directly under the dome. The Dome church can be thought of a Paris’ pantheon for soldiers. Most tourists stop here to see Napoleon’s tomb. He participated in Napoleon’s Egyptian campaign.
who provided the name for a Métro stop on lines 6 and 8. the most beautiful bridge in Paris (see Champs Élysee-Clemenceau in the chapter on line 1 for more information). the museum is a bit gruesome. The Army Museum is a treasure drove of guns.. then carve out a couple of hours to explore the Musée de l’Armée and the Musée des Plans-Reliefs. Yes. Distances are longer than they appear here.162 Napoleon’s tomb is a common stop for most tourists. There are also several military luminaries buried here who gave names to some of the Métro stops. If you’re up for a bit of a hike. bayonets. canons. over the Pont Alexandre to the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais rewards the visitor with stunning view of much of Paris. etc. and for good reason. The Plans-Reliefs museum offers scale models of various military encounters. It’s impressive. including Napoleon’s brothers and son. although thematically the two are more difficult to reconcile. some dating back to medieval times. so you might also think about bringing your teenagers here if they’ve grown tired of Renoir’s and Rodin’s. walk out of the north gate and head up Avenue du Maréchal Gallieni towards the Pont Alexandre. which he lost in battle. General Dausmesnil. though. The Invalides complex can be easily paired with a trip to the Rodin Museum (see Varenne in the chapter on line 13 for more information). Don’t Miss: Napoleon’s tomb Dausmesnil’s leg Weaponry from the Renaissance era . Whether you explore the rest of the Invalides complex can probably be decided by answering one question: how often do you watch military documentaries on the history channel? If your answer is frequently. to explore some of the other tombs in the church. also is enshrined here in the form of his leg. and if you have a museum pass you can pop in rather quickly. including Duroc and Foch. but the hike from Invalides. You many want to take a little time.
163 ★★ Invalides As is often the case. and ignore the feeling that you’re somewhere you shouldn’t be! The reproductions of old Air France posters make nice gifts for nieces and nephews left at home. rather than make the transfer. which offers access to a real Egyptian obelisk and a quick walk to the church Madeleine. However. it’s best to get off at the La Tour-Moubourg exit. if you’re on line 13. Concorde See the chapter on Line 1 for this “don’t miss” stop. it’s probably easier to get off and walk here. a small museum and boutique hidden in the parking lot behind the Invalides Air Terminal— follow the signs. If you want to see the Invalides complex. Off the Beaten Path . Airplane nuts might enjoy the Musée Air France at 2 Rue Esnault-Pelterie. this stop’s name is misleading.
unless you want to eat your macarons on site. Whether or not you want to brave the traffic to visit the interior is up to you. consists of two cookies sandwiched around a filling. although it was originally ordered to be built by Louis XV. The shops around Rue Royal are amongst the most expensive in all of Paris—it’s truly attracts a more elite clientele than the Champs d’Elysee does nowadays.164 ★★ Madeleine ★★★ Nicely paired with Place de la Concorde Things to See ✔ Madeleine Church ✔Ladurée Macarons The French version of the macaron. Because the line can be so long. make sure to visit the underground public restroom just to the east of the front of the church. Don’t worry if your French is poor—just point and hold up your fingers to show how many you want should you encounter a clerk who doesn’t speak English (which is rare here). although my heart has been permanently stolen by the pistachio macaron. Even if you aren’t ready to drop 20. you needn’t feel guilty if you skip the church. However.000 euro on Cartier for your loved one. No trip to Paris would be complete without a macaron from Laudurée. which is nothing like the American macaroon. Ladurée Royale is at 16 rue Royale—make sure you get in the to go line. The macarons should be stored in the refrigerator. neoclassical church Madeleine stands on an imposing hill. . The fillings range from bitter chocolate to Blackcurrant Violet. On Tuesdays and Fridays there is an early-closing street market on the Place de Madeleine. These incredibly rich pastry treats bear no resemblance to the coconut-based American macaron. Critics claim that it’s a cold building. It’s a 19th century church. I usually buy a dozen when I stop. not the line for the restaurant/tea room. so don’t buy more than you can eat if your hotel or apartment lacks a refrigerator. choosing a selection of different flavors. if you do go. It’s beautifully decorated in art nouveau tile. there are a number of fantastic shops for the gourmand here. The stark. looking across Place de la Concorde towards the Seine. but unless it’s Christmas time and you want to visit their wonderful crèche. out of place in what is one of the ritziest places in Paris.
one of two passages or covered shopping areas dating back to 1831 that are on this block. This is a good spot to grab a café and watch the world stroll by. which have also means that this area has a lot of restaurants and cafes.165 ★★ Richelieu-Drouot & Grands Boulevards ★★ A pleasant walk on a busy avenue Things to See I’ve linked these two stops together because their proximity makes for a quick stop for a tourist who just wants to get a feel for the area. The wax museum is best accessed via the Grands Boulevards exit. although few tourists will be heading to see shows there. If your children came to Paris with you. . The Folies-Bergere and Theatre Trevise are both just north of Boulevard Poissoniniere. In the 19th century he razed many of the small. The museum is in the Passage Joffroy. This quarter has a number of theaters. ✔ Musée Greven ✔Passage Joffrey History The Métro stop Grands Boulevards was formerly known as “rue Montmartre. Cardinal Richelieu was an important figure in French history. creating the archetypal Parisian Boulevard. consider taking them to the Musée Greven. twisty streets in Paris. Paris’ was museum. including international brands like the Hard Rock Café. For much of the 17th century he controlled French politics. He built the Palais Royale and used it as his palace. amassing both power and wealth.” but it was renamed in 1998 to commemorate Baron Haussmann’s influence on the city.
tracing roots back to 1628. had a church built to celebrate having a child after two decades of fruitless attempts to produce an heir. the Cirque d’Hiver. octagonal building. stop. if somewhat unremarkable. Denis arch. During the winter season. a 19th century church that stands on the site where Louis XIII’s wife. Filles du Calvaire According to Susan Plotkin in The Paris Métro. . Republique See the chapter for Line 3 for information on this busy.166 ★★ Bonne Nouvelle This stop takes its name [Good News] from the nearby church Notre Dame de Bonne. a fanciful winter circus. which features a fan museum and the St. takes place nearby in a fanciful. You can also begin an exploration of the festive Oberkampf street here [see “Parmentier” in the chapter on Line 3. Everyday but Monday the Enfants Rouge street market is open at 39 rue Bretagne. This is a pleasant if unremarkable neighborhood. this stop is named for the “Sisters of Calvary” convent which was here until the Revolution. Strasbourg-Saint Denis See the chapter for Line 4 for information on this stop. Anne. The market claims to be the oldest in Paris.
it’s about a five-minute walk to the Picasso museum from here (see “Saint Paul” in the chapter on Line 1). Chemin Vert Although covered extensively in “Saint Paul” in the chapter on line 1. and the Carnavalet Museum. . consider this a five-star stop! Bastille See the chapter on Métro Line 1 for information regarding this stop.167 St. If you find yourself at this stop and want to stretch your legs. If you haven’t visited those sites via Métro Line 1. this stop also makes a wonderful exit for those wishing to visit the Place de Vosges. Sébastien-Froissart This stop is named for both the patron saint of archery and a medieval poet/historian— one has to wonder why the two are yoked together at this stop. Hotel du Sully.
A combination food and flea market. On the park site once stood the Hopital des Enfants Trouvés. Don’t forget to begin every transaction with a “bonjour monsieur” or “bonjour madame”. a Parisian wine institution where you can fill your empty bottles cheaply from the barrels stacked against the walls. the city’s foundlings hospital. It’s considered common courtesy in Paris. Wait for an assistant and then point to what you want. Every morning except for Monday the street transforms into a busy market street. many of whom were unmarried women who couldn’t afford their children. Return to Ledru-Rollin when you’re done. Appropriately enough. today the park is a central spot for the children in the arrondissement to gather and play. You’ll soon come to a neighborhood park. but today it is an interesting and rather typical Parisian neighborhood. Continue down Saint-Antoine and make a right onto Antoine Vollon. On the corner of Théophile Roussel is Le Baron Rouge. Upon exiting. one whose modern quaintness belies its history. There are many narrow “passages” to explore in the area. turn around immediately and walk in the opposite direction down Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine. it’s a vibrant and colorful part of Paris. When first emerging from the Avenue Ledru Rollin Métro stop. there doesn’t appear to be much to recommend the busy street. you shouldn’t grab what you want. This part of the 12th was home to many seamstresses.168 ★★ Ledru-Rollin ★★★ Paris as few tourists see her Things to See Off the Beaten Path ✔ Marché Aligre ✔Site of Foundlings hospital ✔Le Baron Historically. Tip: When buying produce or cheese at a street market. the area around this Métro stop has been dodgy. and failing to do this can lead to a less-than-friendly encounter. culminating in the Marché Beauvau at Place d’Aligre. .
especially if you have young children whose legs need stretching. While there are more impressive gardens and parks in Paris. . Montgallet The lovely little Jardin de Reuilly is about a five-minute walk south of this exit. Daumesnil See the chapter for Line 6 for information on this stop. this green island is worth seeking out. The immediate area around the stop is mostly connected to the Saint-Antoine hospital. Reuilly-Diderot See the chapter for Line 1 for information on this stop.169 ★★ Faidherbe Chaligny There’s no compelling reason for a tourist to get off at this stop.
170 Porte Dorée and Porte de Charenton Both Porte Dorée and Porte de Charenton stand just outside the Bois de Vincennes. and to Lake Dausmesnil. while Charenton offers the easiest access to Stade Léo Lagrange. There is little to recommend here for the casual tourist. If you have younger children. The gloriously weird Musée Fragonard (not to be confused with the perfume museum in the Opéra quarter) offers a bizarrely fascination collection of preserved animal and human skeletons preserved in the 18th century by Dr. if you’re in Paris for an extended period and want to escape city life. with one big exception. particularly if you rent a bike. one of the two biggest parks that bracket Paris (Bois de Boulogne is on the west outskirt of the city). and I have enjoyed it. the aquarium. While Vincennes isn’t a “must see”. I am the man who accompanied Jacqueline Kennedy to Paris. but my teenage boys seemed to find the museum fascinating. The Dorée stop provides the best access to the zoo. Take the École Vétérinaire de Maisons-Alfort Métro stop to visit the museum. this makes a wonderful day outing. Liberté to Créteil-Prefecture The last eight stops on Line 8 take on through the unremarkable outskirts on the southeast part of Paris. The Pontiatowski street market takes place near Porte Dorée on Thursdays and Sundays. John Fitzgerald Kennedy . Fragonard. There are 21 anatomical models on display in this rather grotesque museum. be warned that nightmares may result. The museum is closed in August. and 1-6 on the weekends. Visiting hours are 2-6 on Wednesdays and Thursdays.
continue to Iena. Have lunch at the Tokyo (or grab something from the street market) before walking downhill to Iena. Assuming that you’ve already seen the Eiffel Tower. If modern art isn’t your thing. and somber stops like the Princess Diana memorial near where she died and the Chapelle Expiatore. as well as secondary sites worth visiting on return trips to Paris Put in service November 8. 1922 Don’t Miss La Muette Spend several hours exploring the Monets at the Marmottan Museum Go up the Eiffel Tower. Pompidou). like the Paris sewer tours (Les Egouts). offering access to many key sites along its mostly east-west axis. East-West Line Line 9 is a very busy line. There are an incredible number of museums that can be visited using this line. If you still have the energy. or spend time visiting the Cineaquarium or museums Devote at least two hours to the many museums and the street market at this exit An easy walk takes you to the Branly Museum and the Sewer tour. featuring art of indigenous cultures. After exploring the impressionist art. devote your day to several of Paris’ best museums. Cross the Seine to the Branly Museum. many of them museums that aren’t as crowded as the big three (Louvre. d’Orsay. finish at the exiquisite Jacquemart André museum at Saint-Philippe-du-Roule. Start at La Muette and be the first in line at 11 when the museum opens. but hold amazing collections. you may find that you rarely need to connect to any other Métro line! Trocadéro Iena Iena There is so much to do on this line that one day isn’t enough to see all the sites. head to your left and visit the Asian art at the Guimet. . the original burial site of the Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.171 Métro Line 9 Line 9 provides access to several key sites. where you can explore the modern art holdings in the Tokyo Palace and City of Paris MOMA museums. If yous should happen to find your hotel on a stop on this line. although it makes a sharp left at Rue de la Pompe and heads to the southwestern corner of the city. There are also unusual stops on this line. but stop at the Princess Diana Memorial first.
shopping Shopping. Paris sewers tour/museum Champs Élysée. City of Paris Modern Art. church Saint Philippe du Roule Chapelle Expiatore (French Revolution site) Department stores: Printemps. Galliera (fashion museum) . 8. Greven museum (wax museum) Pleasant neighborhood The fan museum. Charonne. Passy Cemetery. Best access for the tower Museums: Guimet. Saint Denis arch Place de la République Nightlife Church of Sainte Ambroise 6 Alma-Marceau FDR Saint-Philippe-duRoule Miromesnil Saint-Augustin Havre Caumartin Chausee d’Antin (La Fayette) Richelieu-Drouot Grands Boulevards Bonne Nouvelle Strasbourg-SaintDenis République Oberkampf Sainte-Ambroise Voltaire. Theatre du RondPoint Museum Jacquemart André. 11 5 Picpus cemetery. rue des Boulets Nation Buzenval to end of the line 4 2 4 1 4 3 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 3 8 8 8 8 4. restaurants. Place de la Nation . various minor museums. 5. large street market Princess Diana memorial. Quai Branly museum. 8 3. Cloud Exelmans Michel Ange Molitor Michel Ange Auteuil Jasmin Ranelagh La Muette Rue de la Pompe Trocadéro Iena Stars 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 4 1 5 5 Destinations Sevres museum of porcelain Museum of 1930s art Auteuil Cemetery Connections Le Corbusier Foundation (architecture) Marmottan museum of Impressionism Eiffel Tower. Galeries Lafayette Galeries Lafayette and the shopping district Cafés.172 Metro Stop Pont de Sevres Billancourt Marcel Sembat Port de St. Tokyo Palace. theater district.
right next to the factory where Sevres porcelain and pottery is made (entrance fee covered by the Paris Museum Pass). If you’re in the area during lunch or dinner. Although lacking in historical figures familiar to most vistors. Off the Beaten Path . where a quick walk over the Seine will lead to the Musée Nationale de Céramique-Sevres. it’s probably not worth your time to head this far out of Paris proper.173 ★★ Pont de Sevres to Michel Ange Auteuil The first seven stops on Line 9 take on through the western edges of the city and are generally unremarkable. Overall. art from the 1930’s or Hector Guimard. with a few exceptions. get off at the Exelmans stop. Modern art lovers may want to visit the Musee des Annes 30/Espace Landowski. these stops are all in decent areas. the big square at Porte de Saint-Cloud has some serviceable cafés. the art nouveau architect who designed famous entrances for the Metro. but unless you’re a fan of Sevres porcelain. Look for the tomb of Charles LeronLevent to see his work. though nothing worth going out of your way for. the cemetery does have one of the few tombs created by Hector Guimard. where you can visit the Cimetiere d’Auteuil. If you enjoy visiting cemeteries. a museum dedicated solely to art from the 1930s (exit Marcel Semblat). Fans of Sévres porcelain will undoubtedly want to make the trek out to Pont de Sevres.
They aren’t Le Corbusier’s. Ranelagh This stop is in a pleasant neighborhood.174 ★★ Jasmin The main reason to stop here is to visit the Fondation Le Corbusier. but take some time to look up at the impressive buildings along the way. but there are a number of impressive art nouveau and art deco houses on the walk. the Gros-LaFontaine street market is worth visiting. but there’s no compelling reason for the casual tourist to stop here. which is dedicated to the works of Le Corbusier. the Swiss architect who is most associated with modernism. If you are in the area on Tuesday or Friday. The walk from the Metro exit to the foundation at 55 Square du Docteur Blanche seems rather ordinary at first. .
Wrong—there are no major Monet’s in Paris’ most iconic museum. If you’re not up to the walk. A slightly more savvy tourist. If you head east from the Métro. which presents his Water Lilly sequence in larger-than-life panels in the round. you’re going to have to head out to the th 16 and the Musée Marmottan. a museum that holds the largest collection of Monet’s in the world. Be sure to check out the statues of La Fontaine’s fables. and perhaps no other artist (with the possible exception of Renoir) is as closely associated with Impressionism as Claude Monet. Ask someone who has never been to Paris which museum holds the most Monet’s and you’ll probably be told the Louvre. and you feel like you’re walking through somebody’s very ornate house—until you come to the modern basement display. one who’s been to Paris. Renoir. and various other Impressionist (and pre-Impressionist) painters. The walk from the Métro station takes a good ten minutes. will undoubtedly point you towards the d’Orsay. where most of the Monet’s can be found. but it’s a pleasant walk through the Jardin du Ranelagh. take bus 32 from the Métro exit. Set in a former hunting lodge. Edgar Degas.175 ★★ La Muette ★★★★ MUST SEE FOR ART LOVERS ! The Monet Museum Few See The art movement most associated with Paris is undoubtedly the Impressionist Movement. which holds an impressive amount of the artist’s works. . if you really want to see Monet’s works. or the l’Orangerie. the Passy Covered Market is open Tuesday through Sunday at Place de Passy. the stunning collection of Monet’s is complimented by works from Berthe Morisot. While both of these museums have impressive collections. The “hunting lodge” is decorated in period pieces.
but sometimes place names and history can be a tad ordinary. I know. the name seems like it ought to have more significance. . Trocadéro This must see stop. which leads to the Eiffel Tower. is covered in the chapter on Métro Line 6. and the name of the exit refers to a water pump which once stood in this area. In French a pompe is a pump. there’s little compelling reason to get off here.176 ★★ Rue de La Pompe Unless you’re here to visit the city hall of the 16th (and it’s not really worth a visit).
became the darling of Paris after dancing in the museum. If you appreciate ancient Asian art. so you don’t have to retrace your steps. Guimet was a rich industrialist. and the museums are close together. towers and arches” each time they visit. they can see one of the busiest street markets to boot! And a plus for weary feet—the walk is downhill and culminates at the AlmaMarceau Métro stop. a museum devoted to clothes and fashion. Be sure to see Marie Antoinette’s collection! This is a particularly easy walk. On your left you’ll soon see the Musée Galliera. I like to send them on this walk which covers four unique museums.177 ★★ Iena ★★★★★ A MUST SEE FOR MUSEUM LOVERS Things to See Many sights on a short block ✔ Musée Guimet ✔Palais de Musée de Tokyo ✔Musée d’Arts Modernes de la Ville de Paris ✔Musée Galliera ✔Street market Directions Sometimes friends will come to me with a request for something different in Paris. who was Guimet’s mistress. You’re heading downhill for most of the journey. After exiting the museum. claiming to be tired of seeing the “same museums. and the collection is housed in an ornate building. The entrance fee is covered by the Paris Museum Pass. Even those who aren’t into haute couture will find the museum interesting. The famous spy Mata Hari. housed in a rotunda worthy of princes. . head down Avenue Wilson. At the bottom of the hill you’ll come to the AlmaMarceau Métro stop. and if they go on a Saturday or Wednesday morning. begin your tour at the Guimet museum. Be sure to visit his personal library.
if you’re here on a Sunday or Wednesday. it makes a good place to stop and does have some impressive modern art work from Henry Matisse. It’s one of the best and biggest in Paris. On the other hand. Both are contemporary art museums. so if you didn’t get enough modern art at the Pompidou Centre. so if you’re on a budget or looking for something cheap to do on a rainy day. among others. make sure to spend some time exploring both of these museums. pick something up at the Marche du Pont de l’Alma street market. although not necessarily the cheapest. . The Musée d’Arts Modernes is free.178 Across the street from the Musée Galliera you’ll find two interesting museums: the Musée d’Arts Modernes and the Tokyo Palace. The Tokyo Palace isn’t free. but it tends to house more cutting edge temporary exhibits and has a wonderful restaurant if you find yourself in the area during lunch.
grab the RER C to the Eiffel Tower or the Latin Quarter (Saint Michel). who died in the tunnel at the Pont de l’Alma. . A Sad Bit of Parisian History Just outside of the Métro exit you’ll find a memorial to the late Princess of Wales. Flowers and hand-written notes at the site are testaments to her enduring popularity. Temporary memorials sprung up almost instantly. where two interesting places await. or walk to the Eiffel Tower. but the Métro runs much more frequently. The walk across the river is short and offers good views of the Eiffel Tower. to the left bank. A gilded statue of an eternal flame now marks the area near where her car crashed as it fled paparazzi.179 ★★ Alma-Marceau ★★★★ Many Interesting Sights Things to See ✔ Princess Diana Memorial ✔Branly Museum ✔The Paris Sewers Directions Most of the sites at this stop are located on the opposite bank of the Seine. using the Pont Alma. After paying respects at her memorial. so if you’ve just gotten out of the Métro or have wandered downhill from the museums at the Iena stop. After finishing your visit of the sites on the left bank. The reason we’re using the AlmaMarceau exit is because there’s only an RER stop on the other side of the river— which you can use. you’ll have to walk a bit father to get to the sites. Princess Diana. head south across the Seine. you can either retrace your steps to Alma-Marceau.
but I’ve heard from friends who’ve visited when it was much more odorous. both of the sites are museums. There are over 1300 miles of sewers underneath Paris. but luckily you’ll only cover a very. The other major attraction is the Quai Branly Museum. and the entrance can be found just east of the Pont de l’Alma. including Native American object. but they are a lot more than just paintings on a wall). so if you go on a weekend. it all may depend upon your sensibility. there has been little in the way of stench. and there are often English tour guides available. The museum is popular with children. and were popular during Victor Hugo’s life—hence the sewer scene in Les Miserables. Designed by the renowned artist Jean Nouvel (who also created the Monde Arabe Museum and the Fondation Cartier). very small portion of the underground network on your visit. The museum has created quite a buzz. look for the rather plain kiosk. The tour consists of a lot of reading signs. my teenage boys found the site interesting. While I wouldn’t go out of my way to come here. The museum is devoted to artifacts from indigenous cultures. perhaps. a bit antsy after one too many museums (although ironically. which opened in 2006 to great fanfare. and I enjoyed the cool of the underground. more so for its unique architecture and layout than for its holdings. the museum is designed to encourage interaction and audience participation. . which do include English translations. Apparently the smell is very hit or miss—on the two times I’ve visited the sewers. Be sure to visit the “living wall” of flora on the side of the building closest to the Eiffel Tower. Then again. Tours of the Paris sewer system have existed since the middle of the 19th century.180 The two sites that await on the left bank are particularly good if you have children who are. don’t be surprised if things get a bit chaotic. The first “museum” is Le Musée des Égouts de Paris—or the museum of the Paris sewers. African art and Asian artifacts. facing the Seine. Make sure to check out the gift store! The sewers are covered by the Paris Museum Pass.
The church dates to the 18th century (and is built on the site of a much older church). However. Roosevelt See description in the chapter on Line 1. . Make sure to look at the map before leaving the station. Fragonard. including works by Rembrandt. which is located at 158 Boulevard Haussmann. built in a Greek-revival style.181 ★★ Franklin D. and others. and it is worth a visit. especially if you want to stop by Saint Phillippe du Roule on the way. It’s not particularly easy to find the museum. this is the easiest stop to use in order to visit the Musée Jacquemart André. but if you head north after leaving the exit. if unremarkable. features some good stained glass windows and a beautiful “Chapel of the Virgin” built in 1851. Saint-Philippe-du-Roule The church of Saint Philippe du Roule gave this stop its name. Botticelli. you’ll run into Boulevard Haussman in about five minutes. This smaller church. The museum is perhaps as well know for its stunning 19th century architecture (including a wonderful grand staircase) as it is for its equally stunning art collection. The area around the stop is nice.
utilizing an interior metal structure that’s unique in Paris. which is three blocks north on Avenue César Cair. which were buried along with 3000 other victims of the Revolution. A black marble subterranean altar marks the spot where the bodies of the king and queen were found. While in this area. lovers of church architecture may also want to visit the Eglise Saint Augustin. No memorials were placed to mark their bodies. Queen Marie-Antoinette were unceremoniously buried at a nearby cemetery on the spot where the Chapelle Expiatoire now stands.182 ★★ Saint-Augustin ★★★★ A Must See for History Buffs Things to See ✔ Chapelle Expiatoire ✔Square Louis XVI ✔Eglise Saint Augustin Directions After exiting the SaintAugustin Métro station. Take the second right. which is Rue dPasquier. which runs alongside the pretty little Square Louis XVI. A Sad Bit of Parisian History Shortly after being guillotined. After the restoration of the monarchy the bodies were recovered and moved to Saint-Denis (see line 13). It was finished in the 1870s. the bodies of Louis XVI and his wife. Today the Chapelle Expiatoire stands as a somber memorial to the victims of the revolution. Just after you pass Rue des Mathurins you will see the entrance to the monument. and stylistically it was meant to resemble large public works like Les Halles. where they remain in the crypt. . head due east down Boulevard Haussmann.
which deposits you near to Musée Grevin. the Paris was museum. Chausee d’Antin Lafayette See description in the chapter on Line 7 for this stop. which deposits you in the midst of the large department store district. Richelieu-Drouot See description in the chapter on Line 8 for this stop. which deposits you near to Musée Grevin.183 ★★ Havre Caumartin See description in the chapter on Line 3 for this stop. Bonne-Nouvelle See description in the chapter on Line 8 for this stop. which deposits you near the entrance to the Opéra Garnier. Chausee d’Antin Lafayette See description in the chapter on Line 8 for this stop. the Paris was museum. .
if you’re here you may want to make the five-minute walk to the church of Sainte Ambroise. with good stained glass. . Republique See description in the chapter on Line 3 for this busy but unremarkable stop.184 Strasbourg-Saint-Denis See description in the chapter on Line 4 for this stop. the Communards used it to hide guns and weapons during the Paris Commune of 1871. Oberkampf See description in the chapter on Line 5 for this stop. Sainte-Ambroise Although there’s little reason to go out of your way to visit this stop. It was built during Haussmann’s renovations of Paris. Soon after it opened. The church is big and impressive.
the neighborhood becomes busier. Nation See the entry for Nation in the chapter for Line 1. . Such a revered figure probably deserves a more lively street that the one that this Métro stop is named for. Charonne During a 1961 protest for Algerian Independence. such as the ironic Candide. There’s a small plaque in the station commemorating the event. nine protestors will killed after taking refuge in the Charonne Métro station.185 Voltaire Voltaire was one of the great thinkers and writers of the Enlightenment. but there is little compelling reason to stop at this exit. His body is enshrined in the Pantheon. Rue des Boulets As one draws nearer to Nation. revered for his essays and books. There’s little to draw the tourist to this location.
The area it goes through isn’t bad. but he also was the person most responsible for the Reign of Terror. but there’s little in the way of tourist destinations that would make one want to explore this area. a place relatively untraveled.186 From Buzenval to the end of the line Odds are that most tourists will not be continuing on Line 9 after the Nation exit. he fought for a constitutional government and was involved in creating the Rights of Man document. So rather than sweep him under the historical rug. The line continues to head north through six rather unremarkable stops. His legacy is a decidedly mixed bag—on the one hand. it makes perfect sense to place the Métro stop honoring him out in the eastern suburbs. I do think there’s something appropriate (and very French) about placing the stop named after Robespierre out here. .
Explore the museum for at least an hour. I would then suggest heading down to the area around Place Saint Michel.187 Métro Line 10 Line 10 provides access to several key sites. start your day on the eastern part of Line 10 by exploring the area around the Pantheon (stop: Maubert-Mutualité). Michel Don’t miss the Pantheon or the stunning St. particularly those in the Latin Quarter Put in service December 30. . Don’t miss St. then see the Luxembourg or Place St. but sites like Roland Garos and the Sevres porcelain museum are unique sites that many visitors will place on their must-see list. or wander through the museums and gardens at the Jardins des Plantes Best access for visiting the impressive Jardin des Plantes. That being said. East-West Line Line 10 isn’t a very busy line. head by foot downhill towards the Cluny. where you can enjoy a meal and explore the ancient streets near the Seine. Etienne! After this. Many of the most useful lines are bunched from Severs Babylone to Gare d’Austerlitz. MaubertMutualité Jussieu Gare d’Austerlitz Best Day Trip? There is so much to do on this line that one day isn’t enough to see all the sites. but it offers good access to many of the most important sites on the Left Bank. several museums. Etienne church Plan a picnic at the Roman arena. 1923 Don’t Miss Cluny-La Sorbonne Explore the medieval holdings in the Cluny.
shopping. museum of sculpture in the plain air 8 13 12 4 Cluny-la Sorbonne Maubert-Mutualité Cardinal Lemoine Jussieu Gare d’Austerlitz 5 4 3 5 5 7 5. entertainment UNESCO headquarters Chapel St. Saint-Nicolas du Chardonnet. Sulpice and St. restaurants. Police Museum Contrescarpe-charming neighborhood to explore Roman-era arena Lutece. museum Dupuytren (medical oddities). RER C . near Place St. Michel Pantheon. Saint Etienne. Jardin des Plantes Austerlitz train station. Jardin des Plantes. near St. Luxembourg Gardens. Hébert Museum Bon Marché food market and shopping center Rue de Buci street market. movie houses. Germain Lively district. Tenniseum Avenue Grenelle for food. Danton statue Cluny Medieval Museum.188 Metro Stop Boulogne Pont de StCloud Boulogne Jean Jaures Michel Ange Molitor Chardon Lagache Mirabeau Église d’Auteuil Michel Ange Auteuil Porte d’Auteuil Charles Michels Émile Zola La Motte PicquetGrenelle Ségur Duroc Vaneau Sevres-Babylone Mabillon Odéon Stars 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 2 2 1 3 3 3 3 Destinations Sevres museum of porcelain Connections Museum of 1930s art Pavillion de l’Eau (water museum) Auteuil Cemetery 8 8 Roland Garos. Vincent de Paul.
Eglise d’Auteuil. Three floors of displays. including information on flood control. Boulogne Jean Jaures. the displays are clear and the historical photographs interesting. the Métro line splits. tennis. a museum devoted to. await the intrepid visitor. you guessed it. Mirabeau As you speed westbound from the Javel André Citroen station. Saturday and Sunday. Friday. but the two times that I’ve been there I was the only person visiting. You can visit the museum at 2 Avenue GordonBennet by taking the Porte d’Auteuil Métro stop. but I quite enjoyed the “Tenniseum”.189 ★★ The Western Loop Javel André Citroen. but he offered to translate the displays for me—I declined in my best rusty French. The museum is open on Wednesday. There are other reasons to make the trek out to the western edge of Paris. The majority will come because they are tennis fans. so if you find yourself coming out here to visit the Bois de Boulogne (see the chapter on Line 1/Les Sablons for more information) or to watch a tennis match. It looks like the kind of place that was created for school field trips. but you should call before making the trek: (+33) 1 47 43 48 48. and sewage. and though almost entirely described in French. Porte d’Auteuil. The museum is dedicated to the history (and future) of water as it pertains to Paris. Michel-Ange Molitor. After initially climbing. the train picks up a great deal of speed as you head into the area surrounding Bois de Boulogne. but there are only a few sites that will draw most tourists out here. disease. It’s free. . Chardon Lagache. Michel-Ange Auteuil. home of the world famous clay courts seen every spring during the French Open. The area out here on the western edge of Paris is quite nice. The man at the information desk must have apologized a dozen times for not speaking English. I’m not a huge tennis fan. come to pay homage to Roland Garros. consider stopping at the charming little Pavilion de l’Eau at the Mirabeau stop.
There is no compelling reason to visit this busy area. Zola wrote a scathing article exposing the affair. Dreyfus may be best remembered today for his article supporting Alfred Dreyfus during the Dreyfus Affair. There is. mostly because he was an easy target as a Jew during a time when a great deal of anti-Semitism existed throughout Europe. La Motte-Picquet Grenelle See the entry in the chapter on Line 6 for information on this stop. .190 ★★ Charles Michels Michels was a French politician who was executed by the Nazis in World War II. using the title “J’Accuse” in his open letter to the president of France. alas. Emile Zola Named for the famous French writer of novels such as Nana. although I came across a charming toy and children store in the area. Captain Dreyfus was falsely accused and convicted of spying for the Germans. little to see at this stop.
the market has the added bonus of offering views of the Eiffel Tower. then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you. Ernest Hemingway . You can arrange for the free guiding tour (which includes a film and viewing of artwork by Hans Arp and others) by calling (33-1) 45 68 03 59. The other reason to visit this stop is to come to the Saxe-Breteuil street market on Thursdays and Saturdays. for Paris is a moveable feast. you can get a guided tour of UNESCO. but other stops nearby offer more for the tourist. too. This stop is the solution. scientific and cultural arm of the United Nations. Located on Avenue de Saxe. The one-hour tour probably isn’t worth taking if your time in Paris is short or if it’s your first visit. visited the Louvre or Napoleon’s Tomb. the home of the educational. they’ll interrupt and tell you about the time they. If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man.191 ★★ Ségur When you return home after your Paris vacation. Duroc The busy area around Duroc seems tempting. but returning visitors may find the effort pays off with a unique experience. If you plan in advance (the suggestion is three months in advance if you’re in a group). you’ll often find that every time you begin to tell somebody about something that you saw.
Across the street you’ll find the supermarket itself. Vincent de Paul’s preserved body is housed. It makes sense to begin at one and walk to the other. The atmosphere in the chapel is one of hushed holiness. a rambling house that displays the work of 19th century portrait painter Ernest Hébert. The main reason to stop at Sevres-Babylone (or take the easy five minute stroll from Vaneau) is to visit the Bon Marché. the first that you’ll come to if walking from Vaneau is the food market. This small chapel. is a small but remarkable chapel that houses the body of St.192 ★★ Vaneau Sevres-Babylone ★★★ A good stop Things to See ✔ Musée Hébert ✔Chapel St. While not as modern as Printemps. or just head to the back where you can either sit down and have a memorable meal or pick up sandwiches and snacks to take out for your own picnic. Make sure that you walk up to the side of the altar. The Bon Marché is often called the oldest department store in the world. Vincent de Paul (see stop Poissoniere on line 7). Stock up on food and wine for your apartment/hotel here. Vincent de Paul. I prefer to stop first at Vaneau. It consists of two buildings. as the store is virtually the definition of gourmet cooking. St. which shouldn’t be confused with the larger Eglise St. the luxurious interior and wide selection claim many devotees. so act appropriately. as the museum has been closed temporarily for renovations (a state that can last for years in France). which offers access to the Musée Hebert. Vincent de Paul ✔the Bon Marché I’ve put these two Métro stops together because of their proximity. This is a wonderful place to buy souvenirs for foodie friends back home. . Vincent de Paul’s heart is housed at Notre Dame de la Medaille Miraculeuse near the Bon Marché. Check online before visiting. a religious institution in its own right. where you can take a winding staircase up to the raised altar where St. The other reason to stop at Vaneau is to see the Chapel St. Vincent de Paul.
Germain History This stop is named for Jean Mabillon. Germain Mabillon is a great stop for those who enjoy strolling. His tomb is in St. Germain area of the 6th that’s full of botiques.193 ★★ Mabillon ★★★ A great market/close to a number of sights ! Things to See ✔ Marché Rue de Buci ✔Vibrant shopping neighborhood ✔Nearby access to St. Boulevard Saint-Germain is a 30 second walk from the Métro stop. a 17th century Benedictine monk who is best remembered for his historical scholarship. but there are so many pleasures in this area. antique stores and several key tourist destination. you may find yourself remembering this stop as one that is quintessentially Parisian. Germain des Prés (also in the chapter on Line 4). Sulpice and St. From this stop you are a five minute or less walk from Saint Sulpice (see chapter on Line 4) and from the impressive church of St. . situated in an area in the St. it’s easy to plunge into things here and quickly find a stop whenever you are ready to move to your next endeavor. Because of the density of Métro stops in this area. There’s a wonderful street market at the Marché Rue de Buci.
consider spending some time wandering through this charming neighborhood. .194 ★★ Odeon See the entry in the chapter on Line 4 for this bustling. If you’re here in the early evening. well-placed stop.
religious artifacts. . and it includes in its holdings weaponry. Severin (see the entry in the chapter on Line 4 for St. though. the Cluny museum is a worthwhile stop. Roman ruins can be seen in the Thermes or Roman baths that have been excavated on site. you have several options to continue your excursion. Ostensibly a museum devoted to life in the middle ages. This also makes a good stop for those wishing to explore the Luxembourg Gardens. The museum is housed in a 14th century building. Plan to devote at least 90 minutes exploring the collection. Michel) or head over to the Ile de la Cite. It’s easy to walk north from here (downhill) to explore the Little Athens area around Rue Huchette and St. Don’t worry—there are several other major attractions at this stop.195 ★★ Cluny-la Sorbonne ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ The Cluny Museum ✔The Luxembourg Gardens The Cluny is covered by the museum pass The University of Paris. Unless you are attending a lecture or visiting with a student. and the amazing Lady and the Unicorn tapestry collection. illuminated manuscripts. Even in you’re not interested in history. there’s little to see at the school. and make sure that you devote some time to exploring the area outside. After exploring the Cluny. where there’s a lovely garden and the excavations of the Roman baths. is one of the oldest in the world. also known as La Sorbonne. medieval clothing.
The big building which dominates the park is the Luxembourg Palace. but admiring the statues must run a close second. where Marie de Medicis lived in the 17th century.196 Although the Luxembourg Gardens are among the best gardens in Paris. there really isn’t a convenient Métro stop. The garden itself is a wonderful place for a picnic or for strolling and people watching. although putting your feet up on a second chair will often result in a stern warning from the gendarme who patrols the grounds. Although the RER B does stop near the gardens. One of the most popular activities is going to the Guignol puppet show in the center of the park. The palace now is home to the French Senate. Don’t Miss: The Lady and the Unicorn Tapestry The Guignol Puppet show The Roman Baths at the Cluny Metr2 . I prefer to take the Cluny Métro exit and do the ten-minute walk up Boulevard Saint-Michel to the gardens. Children sail boats around the pond during warm weather. In nice weather try to snag one of the chairs put out around the pond. An alternative is to take any of the regular buses that run up the boulevard.
Some sources claim unequivocally that it’s a corruption of “master Albert” for Albertus Magnus. Either way. The area also has a dark past as it was once the site of executions. on top of the Montagne Sainte-Genevieve. the recommended visit from this stop all takes place up Rue des Carmes. Even though Place Maubert is a lovely little square. Children might enjoy the Prefecture de la Police museum at 1 bis. Others argue that the name comes from an Abbot named Jean Aubert. there are some good restaurants near Place Maubert (including a really nice seafood place on the square). the now lovely square has been close to the intellectual center of Paris since medieval days. a teacher at the Sorbonne. and parents will love that entry is free. All that being said. up a rather steep hill. Yes. and the street market on Tuesday. The Pantheon is covered by the museum pass This is a good stop. There’s a horse butcher shop just to the northeast of Place Monge—a once popular type of boucherie now seldom found in the city and worth seeking out as a curiosity. .197 ★★ Maubert-Mutualite ★★★★ A GOOD STOP ! Things to See ✔ Église Saint-Nicolas du Chardonnet ✔The Pantheon ✔Église Saint Etienne du Mont ✔Musée de la Prefecture de la Police History The genesis of Place Maubert’s name is unclear. Thursday and Saturday mornings is one of my favorites. the really good sites are ten minutes away. Rue des Carmes. but with one large caveat.
you can head downhill towards Rue Mouffetard in one direction. The church is dedicated to St. or back down towards Place Maubert. Voltaire. but in the summer the coolness of the subterranean crypt is a relief. Genevieve. but as it was completed in 1789.198 The big building standing on the top of the mountain is the Pantheon. After exploring the area on top of Montagne SainteGenevieve. The walk downhill is much easier than it was coming up! There are also a number of small restaurants. Don’t Miss: Sainte Genevieve’s shrine The crypt of the Pantheon The market at Place Maubert Metr2 . the patron saint of Paris. bars and cafes in the winding streets just north of Sainte-Genevieve (as you head downhill) where one can rest his sore feet before continuing. Etienne du Mont. Pierre and Marie Curie. with a distinctive rood screen and ornate staircases. The building itself began life planned as a church. It’s one of the most beautiful churches in Paris. the Luxembourg Gardens in another. including Louis Braille. and Victor Hugo. a building where many of the great figures in French history are enshrined. the revolutionary government had it changed to its present function. The tombs of mathematician Blaise Pascal and the dramatist Jean Racine are also found in the east end of the church. and still contains her shrine and relics. The church just off the northeast corner of the Pantheon in St. You can tour the crypt. which I always find confusing to navigate.
Jussieu See the entry in the chapter on Line 7 for information about this stop. Gare d’Austerlitz The busy area around the train station offers a number of interesting sights. See the entry in the chapter on Line 5 for information about the area.199 ★★ Cardinal Lemoine Named for a medieval cardinal and scholar. the Arenes Lutece (see Jussieu in the chapter on Line 7) or for exploring the area around the Pantheon (see Maubert Mutualite in this chapter). this stop makes an excellent starting place to visit the Institut du Monde Arabe (see Sully Morland in the chapter on Line 7). . which provides access to the nearby Roman arena Lutece and the Jardin des Plantes. You really can’t go wrong no matter which direction you head out of this exit.
but don’t miss the stunning town hall Explore the many museums and shops around the Pompidou Science lovers shouldn’t miss the Musée Arts et Metiers North-South line Line 11 is the shortest full line on the Métro.200 Métro Line 11 Line 11 is the shortest line on the Métro. then make the healthy hike up to the Parc de Belleville. and you can ride from one end to the other in about 15 minutes. 1935 Don’t Miss Chatelet Explore the vast underground shopping complex. . then head above ground for the Fountain The Tour St. Hike back to your Métro stop and head down to Rambuteau. For most tourists. Jacques and shopping should keep you busy. Pay homage to Edith Piaf’s birth site. Hotel de Ville Rambuteau Arts et Metiers Best Day Trip? Start your day off early by climbing up to the top of Belleville. any ride on the 11 will be a short affair. perhaps connecting you to another line or to one of the sites downtown. but there are still several sites you shouldn’t miss! Put in service April 28. where you could easily spend the rest of your day exploring the museums and shopping around the Centre Pompidou. where you will see all of Paris waking up below you. It was designed to take workers quickly from Belleville to center of town.
church St. le Défenseur du Temps (clock). 14. Protais Pompidou Museum. Stravinsky Fountain. Jewish history Museum of Arts and crafts (really arts and sciences). Jacques.201 Metro Stop Chatelet Hotel de Ville Stars 3 3 Rambuteau 5 Arts et Metiers 3 République Goncourt Belleville Pyrenées Jourdain Place des Fetes Télégraphe Porte des Lilas Mairie des Lilas 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 2 1 Destinations Huge underground mall. 8. 5. 7. 9 2 Edith Piaf’s birthplace 7 bis Belleville Cemetery . St. Mueums devoted to dolls. Merri’s. D 1 3 3. decorated Métro station. Tour St. BHV Department store. Gervais-St. B. church of St. 4. RER A. Nicolas des Champs Place de la République Connections 1. Fountain of the Innocents City Hall.
Note that the stops Chatelet and Les Halles are connected in a virtual underground city that can be quite confusing to the novice Métro rider. Jacques Tower and the church of St. Hotel de Ville See the entry in the chapter on Line 1 for information about the area surrounding the city hall of Paris.202 ★★ Chatelet See the entry in the chapter on Line 1 for information about this major transportation hub. Sights in the area include St. Protais. Gervais-St. .
Before plunging into the activities centered around the Centre Pompidou.203 ★★ Rambuteau ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Line 13 Things to See ✔ Centre Pompidou ✔Stravinsky Fountain ✔St. The oddly designed mechanical clock jumps into action at the top of every hour. Two museums. and the mechanical clock “le Defenseur du Temps” is found in the winding passages of the Quartier l’Horloge northwest of the stop. . you might consider three activities just north of the stop. the “poupee” or doll museum (near 22 rue Beaubourg on Impasse Berthaud) and the Jewish Art & History museum [71 rue Temple) are just to the northeast of the stop (make sure to orient yourself using the map in the Métro station). Merri ✔Brancusi’s Studio ✔Le Défenseur du Temps ✔Musée de la Poupee ✔Jewish Art & History Museum The Pompidou is covered by the museum pass One could easily spend a full day just exploring the activities available within a five-minute walk of the Rambuteau Métro stop.
It’s a faithful reconstuction of the Hungarian sculptor’s studio. Inside is one of the most important collections of modern art. Further to the south is the small. The church bell is supposed to be the oldest in Paris. Even if you are not a modern art fan. Brancusi is probably best known for “The Kiss”. gothic church Saint-Merri. a modern art museum that tends to elicit a love it or hate it response from most visitors. with a series of brightly colored tubes running along the exterior. Don’t Miss: Brancusi’s Atelier (or studio) The Centre Pompidou The Stravinsky Fountain Kids will love the area around the Pompidou. Metr2 . Just to the southwest side of the building you’ll find Brancusi’s Studio. built in the 16th century. Look for the intricate wood carving in the pews in front of the altar. including familiar works by artists like Picasso and unfamiliar work that sometimes leaves one scratching his head.204 The area is dominated by the Pompidou Centre. and a quick walk to the south will take you to the colorful and quirky Stravinsky Fountain. There’s no cost for the view. The kinetic fountain sculptures inspired by the composer Igor Stravinsky are delightful. it’s worth taking the escalators up to the top floor for a marvelous view of Paris. The building itself is unique. Entrance is free. Street performers can be found most days in the large square fronting the museum. but he was an important part of the Paris avant garde art scene in the early 20th century.
Republique See the entry in the chapter on Line 3 for information about this busy but unremarkable area. Belleville See the chapter on Line 2 for information about this stop.205 ★★ Arts et Métiers See the entry in the chapter on Line 1 for information about this area. Goncourt Named for the author who funded the Prix Goncourt. a prestigious French literary award. including the arts and sciences museum. Continued on page 2 . There is little in the area to interest a tourist.
but take time to admire the views of Paris from on top of the heights. take exit 2 out of the station and then head straight down Belleville. particularly in the evening. an early pioneer of the film industry. Jourdain to the End of the Line The last five stops on the line really hold little of interest for the tourist. who is buried in the cemetery. To go see the plaque. requiring use of long escalators. The neighborhoods can also be a bit sketchier. The area is still very much a workingclass neighborhood. The stations tend to be much deeper here. The Park de Belleville is about a ten-minute walk away (see the entry on Couronnes in the chapter on Line 2 for more information).206 Pyrenées Edith Piaf was born at 72 rue de Belleville. Fans of early cinema may want to make the pilgrimage to the Cimetiere de Belleville (Métro stop Telegraphe) to pay homage to Léon Gaumont. nor do they make obvious Métro connections that a tourist is likely to use. Metr2 .
In particular. and then wander downhill. passing by the last Paris vineyard. Concorde Abbesses Lamarck Caulaincourt Best Day Trip? Montmartre is best explored early in the day. From there. Vincent Cemetery and the lovely rue Saint-Vincent. . where lunch and the Monets. The stops at the extreme northern and southern ends of the line offer little for most tourists. head into town to the d’Orsay. From there you can head towards Sacré Coeur. through the St. there are good stops in the Montmartre area and around the various museums and sights near the Seine. Monet’s Water Lillies in l’Orangerie Explore the lower Montmartre area from this stop Explore the upper Montmartre area from this stop North-South line Line 12 cuts right through the center of Paris. or head southwest and explore the area around the Abbesses station. before the crowds throng to the area. Recapture the village feel of Montmartre by starting early at the Lamarck Caulaincourt exit. taking the tourist through many interesting neighborhoods. Manets and Renoirs which await you in a train station turned into a museum.207 Métro Line 12 Line 12 has a number of interesting churches and museums Put in service November 5. 1910 Don’t Miss Solférino The d’Orsay Museum is one of the most important museums in the world Visit an ancient Egyptian Obelisk.
church Thomas d’Aquin D’Orsay Museum. Place de la Concorde. covered market Nearby stadiums . Musée de l’Orangerie (Monet’s Water Lilies) Madeleine church. FNAC department store Trinité church. 6. Museum of the Legion of Honor Palais Bourbon Obelisk. Vaugirard Voluntaires Pasteur Falguiere MontparnasseBienvenüe Notre-Dame-desChamps Rennes Sevres-Babylone Rue du Bac Solférino Assemblée Nationale Concorde Madeleine Saint-Lazare Trinité d’Estienne d’Orves Notre Dame de Lorette Saint-Georges Pigalle Abbesses Lamarck Caulaincourt Jules Joffrin Mercadet Poissonniers Marx Dormoy Porte de la Chapelle Stars 1 Destinations Pleasant areas lacking places of interest. 14 Red light district Montmartre. shopping Saint Lazare train station. Bourdelle sculpture museum. 13. church St. Saint-Jean de Montmartre Saint-Vincent Cemetery. 13 10 8 8. Gustave Moreau Museum Notre Dame de Lorette 6 4. 14 3. Ladurée. Convention. Connections 1 3 2 3 2 2 3 3 5 1 5 3 2 2 1 1 1 5 5 1 1 3 1 Good view of the Eiffel Tower Pasteur Museum. John Baptiste de la Salle Walk to Bourdelle Museum Montparnasse Tower and Observation deck. Montmartre Notre Dame de Clingancourt 12 4 Saint Denys de la Chapelle. Le Chemin (artist’s alley) Zadkine Museum. Four Seasons Fountain.208 Metro Stop Mairie d’Issy. Porte des Versailles. Corentin Celton. original Guimard Métro design. shopping Saint Joseph des Carme Bon Marché food market and shopping center Maillol Museum. Lapin Agile.
Although the church site has been dated back to Roman times. you can either continue into the Luxembourg Gardens for a visit. but the “champs” or fields in English are nowhere to be seen. There are a number of good shops and botiques in the area. or you can wind your way back to the Notre Dame des Champs Métro station. this museum dedicated to the sculptor Issip Zadkine is located in his former studio and is well worth seeking out. Notre Dame des Champs The stop is named for the nearby church of the same name. After finishing your visit to the Zadkine museum. the Musée Zadkine is best accessed via this stop. If you’re traveling through here.209 ★★ Sevres Babylone See the chapter for Line 10 for a description of this stop which takes you to the Bon Marché shopping area. Rennes There’s little reason to get off here unless you’re going to see the 17th century church Saint Joseph de Carme at 70 rue de Vaugirard. The Raspail street market is one of the best in Paris (if not the cheapest). and is only worth seeking out for lovers of church architecture. the current structure was rebuilt in the mid1800s. It runs on Tuesday and Friday. . The museum is rather small and cozy. and on Sunday it transforms into an organic market. and gives a good introduction to the somewhat obscure Russian Sculptor. Located at 100 rue Assas on the edge of the Luxembourg Gardens. the Bon Marché food market is a great place for lunch or to gather food for a picnic. Although it’s a bit of a twisty hike.
210 Montparnasse See the chapter on Line 4 for information on this stop. don’t bother. which connects with the Montparnasse train station and several other Métro lines. The Bourdelle Museum is accessible at this stop. You can connect with Tram 3 at the Porte de Versailles stop. a lesser artist held in low esteem today. and many Parisians come out to the convention centers and sport venues in the area. but unless there’s something specific to bring you here. At Voluntaires there is a nice view of the Eiffel Tower. Pasteur See the chapter on Line 6 for information on visiting the Louis Pasteur’s lab at the Pasteur Institute. there is little to see at this stop. but there really isn’t much for the tourist. The Lefebvre street market can be foundat the Versailles stop on Wednesdays and Saturdays. . Vaugirard to End of the Line The area here in the south of Paris is nice enough. The Bourdelle Museum (see the chapter on Line 4/Montparnasse) is a quick walk from the stop if you’re in the area and want something to do. Falguiere Named for the sculptor Alexandre Falguiere.
If you’re traveling through this area. Thomas d’Aquin History Named for large barges (or “bacs”) used to transport the stones used in the construction of the palace of the Tuileries just across the Seine (no longer The Maillol is not covered by the museum pass . one can find sketches and artwork done by such artists as Rodin. and is worth seeing for its beautiful 18th century ceiling and its impressive organ. Dina Vierny.211 ★★ Rue du Bac ★★★ A nice neighborhood Things to See While there is no one spot that makes this a “must see” stop. the tourist who gets off here has the opportunity to visit an interesting art museum. Picasso and Degas at the museum. as well as a famous 18th century fountain and a unique church from the same era. their original purpose was as much functional as it was aesthetic. Although not covered by the Paris Pass. Along with Maillol’s work. considering stopping and exploring these three often-overlooked sights! As much as the modern tourist adores Paris’ fountains. The 17th and 18th century Eglise Saint Thomas d’Aquin has an unusual Romanesque façade. but it was commissioned in the 18th century to provide water to the rapidly growing area around Saint Germaine. Bouchardon’s fountain is impressive in scope. ✔ Musée Maillol ✔Fontaine des Quatre-Saisons ✔Eglise St. particularly on the narrow street where it sits. Art lovers will want to visit the Musée Maillol at 61 rue de Grenelle. and it was designed by his companion (and main model). The museum is devoted to the works of the sculptor Aristide Maillol. the museum is worth seeing and is housed in a beautiful building.
it will be a much more enjoyable museum experience. The d’Orsay is covered by the Museum Pass. while the Legion of Honor offers free admission.212 ★★ Solferino ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ Musée d’Orsay ✔Musée de la Legion de Honneur History This Métro stop is named for the Battle of Solferino. . as the Italians fought for independence against the Austrian Army. the d’Orsay is probably the most famous museum in Paris. The battle united French forces with the Italian Army. Rather than the overwhelming collection the Louvre offers. a particularly bloody battle that resulted in the formation of the Red Cross. and for most people. the d’Orsay focuses on mid-19th century to early 20th century art. The museum is houses in a former train station that has been transformed into a work of art itself. Next to the Louvre.
It’s free. After getting off at Solférino. is located upstairs. Gachet. and even the picture commonly known as Whistler’s Mother. The Mezzanine is a self-service restaurant. head north on Bellechasse. Hints for your visit Use your museum pass to skip the lines. The d’Orsay is on the right. including the Impressionist work. including Van Gogh’s Portrait of Dr. Renoir’s Bal au Moulin de la Galette. If you still have any energy left after visiting the d’Orsay. and there is an English audioguide that will help you better understand French history. Housed in the glorious Hotel de Salm. while the Legion of Honor is on the left as you approach the museum complex.213 The Solférino Métro stop is the closest to the museum. If you go to the Café near the top of the museum. Throughout the d’Orsay you’ll find one piece of iconic art after another. Don’t spend much time downstairs—most of the important works. the museum is often overlooked but is a must for anyone interested in history. which are often quite long. towards the river. although RER C provides closer access if you don’t want to walk the two blocks from the Métro. be sure to go the Mezzanine for a great view of the iconic clock. pop next door to the much less-visited Legion of Honor museum. Metr2 .
at 10. During the French Revolution it was appropriated for the state.214 ★★ Assemblée Nationale ★ Ok for politicos Things to See ✔ Palais Bourbon ✔French National Assembly History The Palais Bourbon was built in the early 18th century for Louis XIV’s daughter. be sure to look across the river at the Madeleine church standing on its hill. Guided free tours are offered on Saturdays. Napoleon ordered the church built to complete the sight-line that you are now standing on. although you should call in advance (33 1 40 63 60 00). As you stand in front. although you have to get there before the session begins and will struggle if you don’t speak French. Housed in the Palais Bourbon. and Napoleon commissioned the pillared front that distinguishes the building. When the Assembly is in session. 2 and 3. the French National Assembly is analogous to the House of Representatives in the United States or the House of Commons in Great Britain. you can attend. .
also worked on (but didn’t design) the Chapel Expiatore. Trinité d’Estienne d’Orves The Métro exits in front of the Napoleon III-era church Trinité.215 ★★ Pigalle See the chapter for Line 2 for a description of this stop in the center of Paris’ red light district. The architect. the museum was designed by Moreau himself and is very much worth seeking out. in turn. which is worth a look if you’re in the area. Henri Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves was a hero of the French Resistance in WWII. which. Saint Georges Yes. Notre Dame de Lorette The stop is named for the early 19th century Romanesque church located nearby. It’s a picturesque church. Hippolyte Lebas. particularly with Sacré Coeur looming just over its shoulder. This rather uninteresting stop was named for rue Saint Georges. Housed in the 19th century Romantic painter’s house. this is the same Saint George who is the patron saint of England. . While you’re at this stop. the longish hike up rue Saint Lazare to 14 rue de la Rouchefoucauld takes you to the Musée Gustave Moreau. was named for the early Christian martyr.
which provides access to the Madeleine church and the unparalleled joys of the macaroons at Laudureés. which features an ancient Egyptian obelisk. which provides access to the train station Gare Saint Lazare. Concorde See the chapter on Line 1 for information regarding this major stop at Place de la Concorde. Madeleine See the chapter on Line 8 for information regarding this stop.216 Saint Lazare See the chapter on Line 3 for information regarding this stop. .
This is Amelie’s Montmartre. The abbey was destroyed during the French Revolution. the Montmartre of windmills. artists and cobblestone streets. founded in the 12th century. small bakeries. The Winding Road to Montmartre While most people will visit Sacre Coeur via the funicular (see Anvers in Chapter 2) or winding downhill via Lamarck Caulaincourt (this chapter). those who take the winding road up from Abbesses are in for a treat.217 ★★ Abbesses ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Line 13 Things to See ✔ Original Guimard Métro station ✔Saint-Jean de Montmartre History Named for the powerful Abbey of the Women of Montmartre. .
the Deux Moulins stands.218 The Abbesses Métro stop is one of the deepest. but perhaps the real pleasure of this neighborhood is just wandering around and exploring the quiet side streets. Metr2 . be sure to take time to admire the original Hector Guimard design for the station. but now only two are left standing. Only then did officials realize the value of the design. Paris officials were in the process of tearing down all the original iconic stations. Make sure to explore the lovely little Place des Abbesses. where Amelie’s café. As you exit the stop. so most people choose to take the elevator up. including the 19th century Art Nouveau church Saint-Jean de Montmartre before exploring further. go to Port Dauphine (see the chapter on Line 2) to see the other. If you head west from the square. a New York art museum offered to buy a whole stop to put on display. you’ll soon come to rue Lepic. when. The name comes from the windmills that still stand in the neighborhood. The ornate Art Nouveau designs were once standard. There’s much more to see in this neighborhood. from the reconstructed le Bateau Lavoir studios where Picasso and others stayed to the crowded pleasures of Place du Terte. according to legend.
Yes. but there are a number of artists. the Montmartre Cemetery is larger and includes more famous people. There’s also a public pit bathroom at the entrance. Chevalier de Lamarck. it’s an easy trek to the often-ignored back side of Montmartre.219 ★★ Lamarck Caulaincourt ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ Saint-Vincent Cemetery ✔Lapin Agile ✔Montmartre Vineyards History Named for Jean Baptiste de Monet. If you’re looking for Utrillo’s tomb. you’re unlikely to find a map here. but this small cemetery has a high concentration of interesting sculptures. actors and singers buried here. After leaving the cemetery. He did early work in evolution that helped pave the way for Darwin’s work later in the 19th century. a scientist who helped create the National Museum of Natural History in the Jardin des Plantes. Many people miss the small and charming SaintVincent Cemetery. where you can see a statue in his honor at the front gate. Unlike the larger cemeteries. The artist Maurice Utrillo is probably the most well known person in the cemetery. . you’ll find it against the northeastern wall. but the cemetery is so small that just wandering around in it will yield many surprises.
full of parks. a cabaret that still offers showings during most nights of the week. where you’ll here typical French Chansons in a much more enjoyable It’s easy to continue here towards the busy center of Montmartre. There are many more charming nooks to be found. though. Metr2 . Before plunging into the crowds. Head up rue des Saules and you’ll soon find yourself at the Consulat. just a few steps from Place du Tertre and Sacre Coeur. One of the first distinctive building that you will come to is the Lapin Agile. and the last remaining vineyard in the area. If you are considering going to the Moulin Rouge.220 Wander down the charming Rue Saint-Vincent towards the east. consider wandering through the crooked streets down along the way. and you’ll soon come to a charming part of Montmartre. I would much more recommend coming here for a night’s entertainment. interesting buildings.
Jules Joffrin The Métro exits dead smack between the pretty town hall of the 18th Arrondissment and the church of Notre Dame de Clignancourt. Denis. Joan of Arc spent a night in the priory here. A more recent chapel dedicated to Joan of Arc is attached. Worth a look if you’re in the area. The foundation is supposed to date to the 5th century. when the church was built to house reliquaries of St. Except for Mondays. Marcadet Poissonniers See chapter 4 for information on this rather non-descript stop. via passageway.221 ★★ Porte de la Chapelle Named for the 1840 gate that once stood here at the outskirts of Paris. Marx Dormoy was a French politician assassinated early in WWII. there’s a great covered market at the Marché Couvert La Chapelle on rue l’Olive. there’s little reason to come out here unless you’re attending an event at one of the stadiums clustered here. a mid-19th century church that has good stained glass but little else to recommend. to Saint Denys. According to legend. Marx Dormoy The reason to visit here is to see the beautiful church Saint Denys de la Chapelle. .
as well as the Grand Palais and Petit Palais museums Explore the amazing basilica where France’s royalty is buried. The Rodin Museum is one of Paris’ very best museums. The areas towards the northern and southern ends of the line have little to offer most tourists. ChampsElyséesClemenceau Basilique Saint-Denis Best Day Trip? Start your day around 10:30 at the Rodin Museum. have lunch at the very good café in the museum complex. When you get on your Métro car. Leave by early afternoon. 1911 Don’t Miss Varenne Don’t miss the Rodin Museum. . After you’ve exhausted the museum. and you don’t want to head to the wrong place. Take at least an hour to wander through the sculpture gardens and through the house itself (and don’t forget the audio tour. check the placard at the top of the first car to make sure it says “Saint-Denis-Université”. but for the most part there are fewer “must-sees” on this line than on others.222 Métro Line 13 Line 13 has a number of interesting churches and museums Put in service February 26. located in the artist’s mansion Visit Paris’ most beautiful bridge. Spend several hours exploring the crypt. although the stunning Saint Denis Basilica is an often-missed site that should be visited on your first Paris trip. taking the tourist through a few interesting area. Don’t miss the lively street market or the nearby covered market North-South line Line 13 cuts right through the center of Paris. the Basilica itself. You’ll need to be fortified for the longish trip north to the Basilica Saint Denis at the end of the line. located at the Varenne stop. The line forks. and the vibrant market in the area. which is quite good!).
vibrant open air market Batignolles Cemetery 8 13 9 3. 12. particularly uninteresting south of Plaisance Offers easy access to Montparnasse Cemetery Montparnasse Tower and Observation deck. 13 1 2 5 2 4 2 2 1 1 0 5 1 10 Rodin Museum. quick walk to Invalides Alternative access to Invalides. 6. Le Chemin (artist’s alley) Walk to Bourdelle Museum Montparnasse Tower and Observation deck.223 Metro Stop Chatillion Montrouge to Pernety Gaité MontparnasseBienvenüe Falguiere MontparnasseBienvenüe Duroc Saint François Xavier Varenne Invalides Champs-ÉlyséesClemenceau Miromesnil Saint-Lazare Liege Place de Clichy North of La Fourche Basilique Saint-Denis Porte de Clichy Stars 1 2 3 2 3 Destinations Pleasant areas lacking places of interest. FNAC department store Busy square. Grand Palais. Petit Palais. various statues Saint Lazare train station. Le Chemin (artist’s alley) Connections 4. Air France museum Pont Alexandre III. Bourdelle sculpture museum. restaurants See the two exceptions below. Bourdelle sculpture museum. 6. 12 4. but otherwise this area is best avoided Burial site for Frances’ Kings and Queens. 14 RER C .
Scott Fitzgerald .224 x★★ South of Gaité ★ Few sites for the tourist Although the area in the south of the 14th and 15th Arrondissements is generally a solid middle-class area. It is more fun for an intelligent person to live in an intelligent country. The best of America drifts to Paris. there is really little to draw the tourist to the area. The American in Paris is the best American. There are street markets near both the Porte de Vanves and Plaisance stops. France has the only two things toward which we drift as we grow older—intelligence and good manners. F.
. Duroc See the chapter on Line 10 for information on this busy but unremarkable stop. Montparnasse Bienvenue See the chapter on Line 3 for information about this station in the middle of the Montparnasse Train Station.225 x★★ Saint François Xavier Names for the founder of the Jesuits. this stop is near Invalides and the Rodin Museum. but is not the most convenient exit for either.
226 ★★ Varenne ★★★★★ One of Paris’ Best Museums Things to See ✔ Rodin Museum ✔Invalides and Napoleon’s tomb History According to Susan Plotkin. Because Invalides in covered in the section in the chapter on Line 8 (La Tour Mauborg). Even the busiest tourist could spend a half a day exploring the two main sites accessible from the Varenne Métro stop. Varenne is a corruption of the French word for a rabbit warren. . this very busy part of Paris contained fields of rabbits. I’m just going to describe the Rodin Museum here. denoting that at one point in history. Try to imagine that as you dash across rue de Varenne on your way to the Rodin Museum! An Important Stop Both the Rodin Museum and the Invalides complex are covered by the museum pass.
it’s free for children to visit the garden. perhaps the most impressive part of the tour is visiting the sculpture garden that surrounds the house. including The Thinker. commercials. which was built in the early 18th century (he lived here in the early 1900s). including Monet. Most of Rodin’s most important works are located around the classical garden. The Thinker is as familiar to most children as the Mona Lisa. and The Burghers of Calais Napoleon’s Tomb Even children who are “museumed out” will enjoy the larger-than-life statues in the garden (and by the way. The Gates of Hell. A charming café provides a memorable lunch in an unforgettable setting. While the museum is a major destination in its own right. Thanks to cartoons. as well as works by others. and movies such as Night at the Museum 2.227 The Rodin Museum is one of the most enjoyable museums in Paris. Renoir. It’s housed in the sculptor’s mansion. and only one euro for adults who don’t have the Paris Museum Pass). Metr2 . and Van Gogh. Don’t Miss: The works of Rodin in the Métro station Rodin’s sculpture garden. The mansion is stunning and offers a peak into the life of the important artist. Within the mansion you can visit several floors of his work.
Liege Named for a town in Belgium. the station was originally named Berlin. Gare Saint Lazare See the chapter on Line 3 for information about this station in the middle of the Saint Lazare Train Station. Miromesnil See the chapter on Line 9 for information on this stop. . which provides access to the Chapelle Expiatoire. There is little to see in this area. the spot where the Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were originally buried after their beheading.228 x★★ Place de Clichy See the chapter on Line 2 for information on this busy square. but WWI prompted a change in the name.
which provides access to the Invalides complex. Invalides See the chapter on Line 8 for information on this major stop. as well as the Grand Palais and Petit Palais. which provides access to the Pont Alexandre. including Napoleon’s tomb.229 Champs Elysées Clemenceau See the chapter on Line 1 for information on this major stop. Metr2 .
who died in the middle of the third century. Off the Beaten Path Burial Site for France’s Kings and Queens The Basilica St. Denis was an early Christian Martyr. Denis. Denis. After the removal of his head near where Sacré Couer now stands. who is often called the first bishop of Paris and is the patron saint of France. just behind the altar. It’s a basilica because.230 ★★ Basilique Saint-Denis ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ 13th Century cathedral ✔Vibrant Open Air Market History Named for St. All of the St. Denis stops at the northern end of Line 13 are named after this saint. St. St. He allegedly gave a sermon during the entire headless walk.-Denis should be on any visitor’s list of must-see places. The great gothic structure that now The Basilique is covered by the museum pass . there is a reliquary of bones believed to have belonged to St. head in hand. over half a dozen miles to the spot where the basilica now stands. Denis proceeded to walk. who according to legend had his head cut off.
although some were unidentifiable and thus put together in an ossuary in the crypt.231 stands on the grounds was constructed in the 12th and 13th centuries. While most visitors come to see the basilica. this area also has a large. designed to allow the visually impaired to see the cathedral through the use of their fingers. who was blessed here before her military campaign. As you leave the Métro station. After the revolution. though. Most were later reburied in St. Don’t Miss: Marie Antoinette’s tomb The 18th century graffiti on the effigies in the basilica The heart of the Dauphin. Denis. and loud. in one of the more amazing historical sites in the ile-de-cite region. crammed with shoppers and cooks. chaotic. vibrant street market during many mornings. The Métro station itself is a five-minute walk from the basilica. and souvenirs. This is where you’ll pay the entrance fee to enter the area where the tombs are located (also covered by Museum Pass). If you walk through the front door you’ll see a plaque commemorating Joan of Arc. There are numerous cafes and bistros here to serve the workers in the local marketplace. many of the remains of the kings and queens were removed from their tombs and thrown into mass burial pits. but within you’ll find the tombs of all but three of the kings and queens of France. Temporary tables are set up in the Place Dagobert. then exit out of the doors on the right side. The amazing effigies remain. the child prince who would have been Louis 17th Metr2 . look for the 3D Braille map of the basilica. but it’s also a slice of vibrant Parisian life that one doesn’t see in the central areas. household goods. There are also everyday shops in the outdoor mall surrounding the area. where you can find bargains on clothes. At the northwestern end of the Place Dagobert is an indoor meat and seafood pavilion. Walk through the main part of the church rather quickly. It’s crowded.
. If you’re traveling north of La Fourche. The area on the north side of Paris is rather run-down and often sketchy. Denis or the Batignolles Cemetery. and most tourists will go beyond this stop only to see either the Basilique St. I’ve included separate entries on these two tourist spots. but otherwise would recommend avoiding this area. make sure to check each train to make sure it’s going to where you want to go.232 x★★ North of La Fourche ★ Few sites for the tourist Burial Site for France’s Kings and Queens The name “La Fourche” refers to the fork in the road that occurs at the same spot where the Métro splits into two northern halves.
and the cemetery itself shows more signs of neglect that one often sees at Parisian cemeteries. However. the RER C offers a quick way to get back downtown. Most of the celebrities aren’t well known to tourists. Batignolles seems like a cemetery whose time has passed. There are also a number of interesting funereal monuments. there are two famous cemeteries that may be worth your pilgrimage. symbolism.233 ★★ Porte de Clichy ★ Paul Verlaine’s Resting Place Things to See ✔ Batignolles Cemetery The only reason for the average tourist to come out to this branch of line 13 is to visit the melancholy Batignolles Cemetery. Located literally under the raised Peripherique. and they tend to be actors and dancers famous in the 19th century. The surrounding neighborhood is quite sketchy and should be avoided at night. and the symbolist poet Paul Verlaine’s tomb can be found on the first circular intersection you come to in the cemetery (section 11]. . If you do come out this way. but unless you are a fan of surrealism. there is little reason to come this far out of your way. or cemeteries in general. André Breton grave can be found at the back end of the cemetery [section 31]. If you’re a fan of surrealism.
There are only nine stops on the line.234 Métro Line 14 Line 14. Madeleine church. includes underground mall. Roch and the gardens at the Palais Royal See #1. and the stations often include automated gates and have no gaps to mind. fastest. Sainte Eustache. Begun in 1989. without conductors. The cars are automated. market street. the line was opened in 1998. nearly double the ordinary speed. which means that you can speed from Printemps and the great department stores out to Bercy Village in under a half an hour. Passeralle Simone de Beauvoir. . and most high tech line Put in service October 1998 Don’t Miss Madeleine See #8. Pyramides See #7. A major transportation hub. Mitterand Library. Laudurees bakery The Future of the Métro Line 14 clearly shows how the Paris Metro system continues to adapt and grow. The gardens are lovely to walk around in. or the Météor. Bercy Village. and the National Library often has temporary exhibits that are worth the effort to visit. Eglise St. Chatelet Bercy Best Day Trip? While a full day could easily be spent at Chatelet or in the area surrounding rue Royal and the Madeleine. is Paris’ newest. if the weather’s nice consider spending at least an afternoon out in Bercy. The trains travel at 45 kph.
Tour St. Roch church 7. Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir. St. and the Mitterant Library 1 14 Cour St. 12 Pyramides 3 Palais Royal. large department stores Madeleine church. 7. the French Cinema Museum. 11 Gare de Lyon Bercy 1 5 Gare de Lyon train station For the next several stations. 14 Chatelet 4 Large underground shopping area. 4. the main things to visit include Bercy Parc. Jacques 1. shopping on Rue Royal Connections 3. 13 8.-Émilion Bibliotheque François Mitterrand Olympiades 5 5 1 2 . 12.235 Metro Stop Gare Saint-Lazare Madeleine Stars 2 3 Destinations Saint-Lazare train station.
which is near the gardens of the Palais Royal and St. which offers access to the Gare de Lyon train station. which is near the activity surround the Les Halles region of Paris and offers quick access to the Tour St. Gare de Lyon See the chapter on Line 1for more information about this stop. which is near the Madeleine church. Chatelet See the chapter on Line 1 for more information about this major stop. Jacques. Pyramides See the chapter on Line 7 for more information about this stop. which is near the grand department stores and offers access to the Saint-Lazare train station. Madeleine See the chapter on Line 8 for more information about this stop.236 Saint-Lazare See the chapter on Line 3 for more information about this stop. . Roch.
237 ★★ Cour St. as wines from across the nation were housed here in warehouses. otherwise. Émillion area is the oldest wine area in region. a place where your friends back home have probably never visited? The area around the old wine-shipping area of Bercy (now called the Bercy Village) offers a look at an area that has recently been transformed into a destination worth seeking out. and on the right you’ll see the unique curves of a Frank Gehry-designed building. which features three gardens that remind one of the earlier history of the area. Émillion-Bibliotheque François Mitterrand-Bercy ★★★★★ MUST SEE ! Things to See ✔ Bercy Park ✔French Cinema Museum ✔Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir History For many years. Bercy was synonymous with wine. The Seine provided the means of transportation from regions like Bordeaux. If you’re interested in the ultra-modern Mitterrand Library. The Cinema Museum is covered by the Paris Museum Pass Are you looking for something new in Paris. The first thing that you’ll notice is the lovely Parc de Bercy. Émillion stop and head northwest. in fact to be “Bercy” was slang for being drunk. The building was originally designed to . begin your tour at the Bibliotheque Mitterrand stop. The area served as the nexus of wine importation into the capital. whose St. begin at the Cour St. Statues are situated throughout the park.
meant. Just on the other side of the arena is the Bercy Métro stop. The building now houses the Maison du Cinema. What makes the arena unique is it exterior design. As you approach. where you finish your tour safe in the knowledge that Paris continues to grow in pleasing ways. Head up the steep steps towards the Seine.238 house the American Center in Paris.M. Grass covers the nearly vertical exterior walls (I’d love to be here when they mow it!). glass and concrete all provide structural integrity. but financial problems soon closed the center. and blue metal. Nosing through the library (which is in four different sites) can turn up some amazing displays. Turn your back to the Gehry building and walk south through the gardens in the park. Don’t Miss: The Passerale pedestrian bridge The French Cinema museum. Note how the graceful and playful wooden bridge contrasts the ultra-modern (and many would say ugly) buildings centered around the Mitterrand Library. housed in a Frank Gehrydesigned building. Pei’s pyramid structure at the Louvre. The wooden pedestrian bridge undulates on two levels across the Seine. It’s well worth seeing just for the artifacts from the early history of the movies. no doubt. as an architectural echo of I. The lovely Parc de Bercy and the Palais Omnisports Metr2 . which in turn is a reflection of Napoleon’s Egyptian campaign. the Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir. a museum devoted to the history of movies. After visiting the Passerelle or the library complex. such as a permanent exhibition of Louis XIV’s globes and always-interesting temporary collections. keep an eye out for the pyramid designs incorporated in the metal/glass structures. a unique sports arena that houses sporting events and concerts. You’ll soon come to the imposing Palais Omnisports. return back to the Right Bank and continue walking westward through the park. and you’ll soon encounter one of the newest bridges in Paris.
as well as a travel article on James Joyce’s European homes. wearing out a good pair of Merrill’s in the process.240 About the author Jim Read has been a Professor of English for 15 years. He’s researched this book for eight years. . and last winter re-explored each of the 380 Métro stations. short stories and poetry. This is his first book. and his publications have included academic work.
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