Materials

Here's my list of art materials as requested. I'll do my best to explain what I use and why as well as where to get them. Lots of Manga specific art materials available HERE.

Work Space: How to set it up

Pencils: What Kinds do you need?

Erasers: They aren't only pink and square

Pens: What kind of inker are you?

Templates: Need a fast circle?

Curves and Edges: How to keep it all clean

Paper: How to choose.

Accesories: Not required..but nice to have

Digital Art: Is your system ready?

What you see: A) A nice, large,clean, flat,sturdy, well lit table. B) A storage system for paper, reference materials, tools and other art related objects. C) A tool rack within easy reach. D) a comfortable chair.

The #1 important thing to consider when setting up your workspace is "comfort". Remember , you will be sitting here for hours at a time. Make sure your area is well lit and as clutter free as humanly possible. I like to keep inspirational objects and reference material around my work area so I can stay juiced about what I'm doing. (Notice the DangerGirl action figure set over the desk). I also like to keep all my tools with reaching distance so I don't have to break my train of thought to grab a tool while working. I hang them on the wall to keep my desk space clean and clear. I keep a large collection of Video Game mags and manga on hand to use as layout or reference material. If you drink or eat at your desk make sure your food/drink items are secured. I've accidentally spilled more coffee on artwork than I care to mention so now I keep that stuff on a side stool away from my workspace. Comfortable, Clean & Bright!

Pencils com in a wide array of options. You can pick up a box of designer pencils like the ones you see to the left. Or you can just individually pick out 2 or 3 that will work for you. I'll try to explain what factors should influence your decision.

The chart to the right shows what the different "Grades" of pencil are. You've seen the infamous yellow #2 or 2B pencil all your life at school. Now looking at this chart you can see what that means. H = Hard lead. Hard lead makes a lighter line and is used mostly for drafting. 9H is as hard as it gets. On the opposite side of the spectrum are the B grade pencils. B has a soft lead so it makes a darker line. 9B is like mascara.

I choose the middle ground. an HB or F pencil has a nice versatile grade.

I use about 5 different pencils over the course of a drawing. I rough in with a photoblue. Clean up line art with a lead-holder pencil and then detail with a .03 mechanical.

you can squeeze it down into a fine point and erase lines in hard to reach places without disturbing the pencil lines around it. Pens are a difficult thing to reccomend since so much of what you chppse is based on how you ink... Debris is that rubb off you get from your eraser. It also has a low "debris" factor. Variable line weight is very important for inking. They have all the clean qualities of a techpen yet they also have a semi-flexible tip. Otherwise your drawings come out flat like a coloring book. Once you open it from it's wrapping you start working it like silly putty.. What's the purpose? Well. SO the harder you press the wider your line will be.005 (very fine) to . They come in .. They may or may not work for you. A) Kneaded Eraser: This eraser usually comes as a plain Grey or Blue square... Another handy feature is that it doesn't completly erase lines.folding it.. squishing it.08 (very thick) These pens usually run about $12.Kneading it..I've used Millions of erasers over the course of my art career but I've finally whittled my choices down to 2 kinds. I'm going to list the pens I personally choose to get the job done.experiment as needed.If you just dab the eraser over the lines you can lighten them up for inking. Sakura Pigma Micron: My personal favorite inking pen. really. Squeezing it into a Ball.pulling it into a ribbon. .00 for the whole set at your local art store. B) White Nylon Eraser: This style is the best eraser I have ever used for completly removing pencil lines without destroying your inks or gouging your paper.

It acts like a brush but without all the hassle of cleaning a brush.. When they are new they have an excellent point and a very uniform Black.. I only use these for coloring large areas of black. Organic natural objects.08 Sakura micron Sharpies are available almost everywhere. They tend to "bleed" quite a bit on regular paper so leave a space between your blackline and fill area. trees.never for line work or detailing. This pens a little harder to find but should be at most your major art stores. ships or cars. You can fill in the gap between with a . But it's great for inking Hair.ect.. fur. The Tombo Brush Pen: This pen takes a little getting used too.The Sanford Sharpie: I use these pens to fill in large black areas. It's not very good for inking mechanical things like Robots. These pens are great but only useful for a short period of time. .

It also saves you from using a traditional compass and punching holes in your paper. Let's see what they do for us.. You rotate them around on your drawing till you find an egde that closely matches the curve you're trying to ink. I use at least 4 on any given drawing. I suck at drawing word balloons and before I purchased Adobe Illustrator this was the only way I could draw them with looking like an amatuer. One problem though.. Gun Muzzles. Car wheels. .They are flat so ink can run underneath them and smear your drawing.Templates come in a variety of shapes and sizes and are save you a great deal of time in precise drawing . You can't really do a good job without these tools unless your some kind of machine. Tape pennies under the edges of the template to raise it from the surface and avoid the ink smear. You can also purchase a "Flexible Curve" which looks like a peice of rubber railroad track. French Curves: These tools come in several different sizes and shapes.just about anything. A little searching can turn up some very useful templates like this one I picked up in Tokyo. It's no good for tight curves but works nice on long curves.

Vellum coating is ultra smooth and ideal for inking. If you're into Watercolors or Charcoal you'll want a different type of paper than what's show below. I assume most of you are interested in comic style art so I'm showcasing the comic type paper.( Age can yellow the paper). Be very carefull when inking not to drag your hand across the page or you'll end up with smudges and smears. The 45 degee angles com in andy for drawing perspective lines back to the "Vanishing point". Notice the diagram on the left depicting the way an inking edge works with a Pen. bright white paper. all your tools should have an inking edge. It comes in several sizes and surfaces. . For comic book art you want a fairly large size (11x14) and a smooth surface. Acid Free board will stay whiter longer.Triangles: A must have for Comic book paneling and perspective work. The Ruler edge is raised from the drawing surface allowing the ink to apply cleanly. Use the T-square to draw Horizontal lines and the Triangle to draw Vertical lines. Bristol takes ink very well but because of it's smoothness it takes the ink a bit longer to dry. If that edge was flat on the paper the ink would bleed between the edge on the paper making an ugly mess. The triangle rest on your TSquare. I'll cover perspective in another tutorial. Bristol Board Smooth: Bristol board is a heavy. Ruler with Inking Edge: Really. Also give the ink a while to dry before attempting to erase your pencil marks.

I've found that I get more out of Highly detailed action figures (like Todd McFarlanes).. Still. The only thing that kinda sucks about the dummy is that he's not really all that poseable. if you buy it you can do whatever you want with it.course.see if I care. Most drafting supply stores carry the brush. the Brush: How many times have you gone to swipe off the eraser debris with you hand an smear the inks on your picture with your big sweaty mits.. . Everyone should have a dummy. It's for final peices. The brush is the elegant answer to debris removal.. It protects your art and removes a lot more crap than your hand does..This paper can be expensive so don't use it for sketching.. Drawing Aids and Stuff the Dummy: This can be an excellent tool for helping you keep anatomy proportions correct.

You'll get faster performance from a USB or SCSI interface scanner than from a parallel port scaner. Photoshop 5. What Scanner should I buy?: I bought a cheap scanner at Costco (a MAG Innoscan DTS-3060) for about $100. strokewidth and color of the paint tools sinmple by pressing harder or softer on the tablet.6. Just find what works for you.So you've drawn what you came to draw. I know that Black and White is an option but Greyscale gives you a smoother line.. That way you can set your airrush to be effected by stroke size but not opacity or opacity and not stroke size. What Size should I scan my line art at? Scan your blacklines as 150 to 300 dpi greyscale images. Make sure to reduce your resolution to 72dpi before saving it for Web use. My Mag is working very well for me though proving you don't have to drop $3000.5 will do this for you automatically. Adjust the contrast using "curves" in photoshop. It works fine for web and lineart.As time rolls on the above figures will look very dated.00. How does a Wacom Tablet work with Photoshop? Photoshop takes adavantage of the Pressure sensitive capabilities of your Wacom Tablet.how do you digitize it? Top 10 System Recommendations: A great system (for PC) consist of 1) Faster the better (600mhz minimum) 2) 256 MB of Ram (more is better) 3) 32mb Video Card 4) 13-25 Gig hard drive 5) A Wacom Tablet (shown at Right) 6) A 5 button Mouse 7) a 19-22 inch monitor 8) Adobe Photoshop 5.. You can now contraol the opacity.5 . .00 for something decent. Just get as fast and as much of Everything as you can. I keep mine set to "Alt"(Alt in Photoshop will bring up the eyedropper tool if you have a paint tool currently selected) so when I'm painting I can just press it and grab the color I need from the art I'm working on. You can tweak which pressure options it uses by going to the tool options palette and checking/unchecking boxes in the "Stylus" section on the lower half of the pallette. You can also set the index finger button on the stylus to perform Photoshop keyboard shortcuts..if you're looking to do hirez print work for magazines you may want something a little more high end.0 9) A digital Camera 10) A Scanner I'm not going to get into what brands I think are the best because I don't want to start any arguments.

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2. . Getting finalized and deciding which lines are going to be heavy and which lines are going to be light so you knw what your doing when you finally get to the inking stage. Those of you who are veterans to the wonderful world drawing faces will recognize this set up right away. Here we start cleaning up and detailing. now that we know where everything is supposed to go we can make it look like it's supposed to look. It's pretty much your standard layout for a face with some minor tweaking based on anime rules.1. 3.

3. It's like a fingerprint. Experiment with whatevers best for you.. The lower lashline is also heavy and defines the curve of the eye. Don't go making an arrowhead out of the chin but think more along the lines of the bottom half of a heart.. I always liked the presence of lips. They must be big and have the ability to water up at any moment 2. s The Head itself should be 4 big eyes wide: Half an eye on the left.I beg to differ. 4. eh? Here's where it starts getting into "Style". . There's not much to mouths. I believe the eyes set the styles apart from each other. half on the right..I'd study some manga. eye.. Anime chins are much sharper than standard chins. (the cartoon kind of heart. 1.. eye. eye. The Ears should be located on horizontal lines drawn out from the eyebrows and the nose. The human head is pretty much an "egg" shape. But I will admit . s I draw mouths different than most Anime designers. The upper edge of the cheeks gets dashed with lines to define the edge of the eye socket. If your shooting for a more traditional anime style. Anime mouths are somewhat smaller so I use the inside corners of the eye as a guide. the set up for this is to draw a circle representing the top of the head and an inverted cone for the chin.Here we are at the beginning. you can tell who did what just by looking at the construction of the eyes. Lot's of clueless folks say "all that japanese stuff looks alike" .OK.All Japanese anime eyes share similar traits across the board. The shape is more "catlike" than just oval. Starting to shape up a bit. the width of the mouth would be determined by the center point of the pupils of the eye..the upperlash line is heavy.. for females.not the biologically correct heart) The placement of the nose should be located on a horzontal line between the eyeline and the chin line On a normal human face.

For now let's concentrate on the basic "Spread Fingered" hand. Follow along and study your own hand as you go.Tada!. This first step is important to understanding how the hand is constructed and were the pivot points are. The big deal to this stage is defining the hair and a relevant light source so you know which lines to make heavy and wear to put shadows n' stuff. Designate a point on the lower center line of the oval.well. Hair is tricky business..the oval Draw an oval. shoving. Here is the first in a series of HAND tutorials. It should have "highlight squiggles" (for lack of an actual term) that makes it look like hair from a pantene pro V commercial. This is the anchor point we'll use for our fingers.. Hands : Step 1. Do what you want but just make sure you sweep some of it into the eyes. A little more pushing. Anime hair comes in all sorts of colors so go nuts. Much like the one you see to the left. erasing and cleaning brings us to stage 3. Once you are comfortable with the proportions of the hand it will be easier to draw it in different positions. . almost.

The next knuckle splits the difference between the remaining length to the top of the palm oval. Hands : Knuckle placement The remaining finger lengths fall on an arc from the height of the middle finger. The longest line will be the middle finger. The knuckle closest to the tip of the finger is slightly less than 1/3 the way down from the finger tip. The thumb has 3 knuckles as well but the anchoring is hidden inside the palm.Hands : Step 2.make it just slightly shorter than 2 oval lenghts.radials Draw 5 lines radiating out from the anchor point... .

Believability is added by drawing creases in the places the hand bends the most. The thumbs arc peaks at the middle knuckle of the index finger. The thumb swings inward on its Anchor Knuckle and bends down at its second knuckle to point at the base of the Ring finger. This hand is definately mine.widen at the first knuckle then taper down again toward the tip.Hands : Fleshing in Flesh in the fingers as shown here. Look at your own hand for reference.. Everybody's hand is slightly different. ...at the knuckles and along the palms. The fingers start narrow at the base. (Notice I am Right handed and that's why my hand model is a Left hand) Hands : The opposable Thumb The thumb kinda has it's own thing going on. It rotates around on its own axis.

Hands : Finger lengths The Index finger and the Ring finger are nearly the same height. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE READ THE FIRST HAND TUTORIAL! This one doesn't deal with proportions like the other did.about the halfway point of the middle finger "tip".pay attention to the fold lines in the palm. Notice how the thumb side of the palm pivots from the center. You're palm gives you the lines you need to see were it bends... It curves and follows the contours of the lines on the palm.. Instead I break it up into major forms and really pay attention to where it folds and bends... The Ring finger is just slightly longer. Above the top blue line is the first row of knuckles.. The hand is kinda like a shovel. Hands are a nightmare for most artist. Notice how the hand is not Square but Wedge shaped. even when drawing the hand from the back.myself included. Don't make the hand a flat wedge. The Pinky finger comes up to the last knuckle line of the Ring finger.that's what we use it for somtimes. This is more the form of the hand. It will help you draw more natural positions for the thumb and fingers. . It's hard to contruct it in basic shapes so I don't really try.

there's an arch between the toe pads and the heel pad. Notice the foot does not sit FLAT on the ground plane. I kept some of my stucture lines in tact so you could see what I was thinking when I drew them The Foot: Know your basic forms! Like everything else you draw..Below is a series of hand studies I drew based on the above diagrams. . the foor also consist of basic forms. The shin comes into the ankejoint which then branches back for the heel and forward to the toes. I break it down into 3 parts. 1) a cylinder for the shin 2) a half a peanut for the front 3) A roundish shape for the heel Side view Here you can kinda see those basic shapes beneath the foot.

Everyone's seen foorptints in the sand..the middle toe is usually the longest. The Instep Okay. this foots a bit wide but you see the important structures. Practice Practice Practice! . The arch of the foot doesn't come into contact with the ground. Make sure you make the Sole of the shoe go below where the bottom of the foot would be.If the shoe fits. Mastering forms in perspective Once you understand how a foot is put together you can start getting creative with action poses. The toes are also arced like the fingers of the hand... That will give you a better idea on how to wrap the shoe around the foot form. There's about a 1/4 of an inch to 4" of rubber between the bottom of the foot and the bottom of the sole. A shoe is basically just a wrap for the basic foot shapes. Looking at pictures of shoes will give you ideas for styles. Draw the foot first... Take a good look at those basic shapes I drew in step one and see if you can find them in this drawing to the left. If your stuck. Here I chose a modified US Army Jungleboot.. The heel and Ball of the foot are linked by the outside edge of the foot. the Wedge Notice how the foot is shaped like a rounded wedge the bend IN towards the body's center.

Step 4: Create the highlites Highlites give hair that healthy Anime Pantene glow. This characters har parts down the middle so I add another guidline to represent the partition from front to back. The anime highlite is usually like a halo sitting on the upper 1/3 if the hair. Define the outline of the hair. Trim away stray lines you aren't using and add shading where the hair is farther away from the viewer or deeper toward the scalp. Step 2: Define the strands Hair grows up and out of the head like spikes on a sea-urchin. (uni anyone? hah... It's soft so it falls back downward because of gravity. Remember. Step 1: Define the Hairline The hairline is located on a line that extends from ear to ear at a 45 degree angle up from the eyeline.. This all depends on the available light you're using and whether or not this person would have Shiny hair.hair is individual strands. Or.HAIR: First you may want to download and print out the template I made just for class so you can follow along. sushi joke). It's not a helmet made of playdoe. Notice the darker shade of purple I used and how it rounds out the hair? (granted this is a very simplified piece). Obviously you aren't going to draw a million strands but do draw enough the give body and depth to the hair.bisects the forehead horizontally between the eyes and the crown of the head. Look in fashion magazines and comics for more style ideas! . Use it to develop your own hairstyles. Step 2: Define the body After you have your strands figured out. It includes a bald female and male head. Except hair isn't rigid like a spike. Draw the hair in smooth sweeps from the hairline and part.

I just wanted to use this to make a point) HAIR: First you may want to download and print out the template I made just for class so you can follow along. I still make sure the hair strands grow OUT from the scalp and flow along in a natural direction. Or. get a collection of style and study the hairgrowth pattern.Hair in Action: Hair can be a very useful visual cue for describing motion and adding a dynamic element to your art. Magazines are your best reference material..s.at least in MY world... the hair shoots forward. Step 2: Define the strands Male hair is typically shorter.. Longer hair would be drawn similar the the female style on the other page. Step 1: Define the Hairline The hairline is located on a line that extends from ear to ear at a 45 degree angle up from the eyeline.. forgive the high quality cocktail napkin art over here. Here I chose a Ceasar cut style.bisects the forehead horizontally between the eyes and the crown of the head. if the character is blown backward.. It includes a bald female and male head. If the character is falling.. The trick is to show how the hair follows the direction of the head..see? (p. . Use it to develop your own hairstyles.the flow of the hair is the opposite direction. This characters hair doesn't really part down the middle but I use the center line to help me keep things even.

.My methods vary a little but I want to put across a generic average for you to build your own styles on. I make hair closer to the viewer lighter to add that sense of depth. Eyebrows are Fanged teeth help convey the No popping veins or fanged teeth. size but the eye brows are still down. Angry (okatta) Really Mad: The eyebrows come Miffed: Mouth goes up in an upside down. still down but not as far.. What follows below is a guide.. .Step 2: Define the body See how it kinda works like connect the dots? I work the body of the hair into the flow lines I created in the last step. Click on the face to the left to download a blank template you can use to follow along. Here is the long awaited expression tutorial. down lopsided "u". instead. add a highlight to the cowlick area to help define space and depth. A ceasar cut is a bit rough and spikey so I don't use the halo highlite. the pupils shrink and you Kinda mad: Pupils back to normal get a little x on your forehead. Step 4: Create the highlites Guys hair isn't usually shiny like girls hair.since it's so hard to find I thought I'd convert the lesson using my own art and post it up here for you.. emotion. I will.This tutorial is very similar to the tutorial available in the "How to draw Manga" book.

..eyes have more sparkles a-sparkle with tears. one Suprised: Eyebrows UP. . Mouth is a squiggle low on the face. Mouth wide wide open. The eyes are a bit wider open. Mouth is a sideways "D" but a bit smaller. streak the face. visible in corners of the eye Happy (ureshii) Joyous: Eyes shut from smiling.. sick or disgusted: Features are drawn in a minimalist way to convey humor.eyes all Eyes squeezed shut. Others (sono uchi) Thoughtful: My personal favorite. A thin line goes follows the upper curve of the Content: Same as gleeful but the eye to convey a relaxed state. Mouth in sideways "D" mode.. pupil to mak it "squinty happy". Gleeful: Eyebrows up.. Eyebrows up.Sad (kanashii) Super sad: WaaAAAAAHHH! Upset: Eyebrows up. Mouth in a Eye's usually looking up and to lopsided"O". the side. eyelids and eyebrows are a flat line. Mouth in open.eyes wide up. but pupils small. Mouth is an upside down "V".. Tears still upside down "U" mode.tears of shame and grief in them to convey "wet". one eyebrow down. Eyebrows up. Rays of blushy joy on cheek. maybe add a sweat drop. Mouth is lower eyelid covers the bottom of the a small bow curve. mouth not as distraught: Eyebrows up.

.. If you're really stuck.A tip on Foreshortening: Foreshortening is never really easy and it's something you will have to get comfortable with over time with practice.but here's a tip. Use these lines as a guide to draw your character from the front . try drawing your character from the side then use a ruler to draw lines from key parts off the the side like I did below.

think about what it is your character does.. .. Picture this in your head before you put the pencil to paper. A good foundation is important if you want your piece to have the right impact..NO! Try and avoid a using the normal stance.A big part of developing a character is knowing what kind of body language they use. Here a little personality shows through. sad.what effect would that have on the way they carried themselves. Think about your character. Get your stick figure exactly right before you flesh in your character. Stance is wide and Posture is open giving the impression of confidence. Figure is "S" shaped. you can say a lot with just a stick figure. bad. Normal Stance Adventurous/ Courageous Slinky/Sexy Not much to it. happy. Hips and shoulders are suggestive of a seductive nature.. A big mistake beginners make when drawing pin-ups of their characters is ignoring the personality of the character they are doodling. I often see pics posted by others that have a character standing with a weapon like they are sitting in a Sears studio for family photos. S is for "Sexy". Check these examples to help you along your way. As you can see. drag and cry. Completely neutural stance.. skip. play or mope.. Are they graceful? Are they clumsy? Do they laugh. you have no idea whether or not this person is good.

.. Look around.but now you want to put some details on it. Back is almost turned from the viewer..A good amount of people watching will help you discover new poses and postures..sketch quick. Arms are crossed. Stance is wide to assert dominance Hands clasped together as whistful and goofy with love. . Secretive Combative Lovestruck Stance is closed. Grab you sketchbook and head out to the park.. airport. this wet your appetite and now you have some food for thought.. This figure cries "Come and get some!". mall.wherever."how can I use anime/manga features to convey the personality of my Character?" you ask. Fist are raised in challenge.... Hopefully.

it just lacks a certain force. Even though the form is good on both characters there's something that needs to be done to show this punch packed a wallop.. "I've had enough of both of you. angular features.Eyes and shape of the face goes a long way to portray the personality of your character. The force of the punch is shown in the shape of an arrow. Fighting: A Show of Force Punching GOOD PUNCH: BAD PUNCH: It's not horrible.you may recognize some of the cast of "Cowboy Bebop" below. .. Face has sharp. Eyebrows hardly ever down. Eyes are huge. what's that?" works better for the character on the right than on the left. Evil Heroic Innocent Eyes are thin and dark.. Features are less sharp. Eyes are bigger and rounder. You have to really close your eyes and imagine your character in action. This is MUCH better. Face is softer and rounder Kinda get the idea? These rules aren't set in stone. "I'll cut you face off" rolls much easier off of the left characters tongue than the character on the right whereas.I just want to give you the idea of what to shoot for when you are making characters. Making the fist a "blur" of lines helps give a sense of speed and power to the punch.I'll use my quick sketches of them to illustrate my point. Strong jawline.. How there face needs to look when saying the lines you will give them. The horizontal line coming from the attacker and the lines of the targets body bending at the point of impact. "Gee.I'm going home" works just fine for the center character. the pupil is smaller the more evil the character is till there's no pupil at all...

Adding Details: When you get to the stage of cleaning up your work and adding in details be sure and incorporate lines that translate the action taking place. the bare minimum for translating this throw. I put curved lines on his check to show an indentation where her fist connected. all the balance is thrown into it giving the impression of a mighty delivery. his head is knocked back from the point of impact. Fighting: Choosing an Angle Bad Angle It's not that her position isn't dynamic. Also the attacker's body is much more a part of this kick. with the target being stick as a board it tells us this kick was nothing special. He probably won't be getting up for a while. the attacker appears to be merely raising her foot at the target Now THAT had to hurt! Again. Too flat and lifeless. The edges of her fist and arms are quick strokes following the direction her arm is travelling. It just doesn't do justice to the action being shown. Better ..Kicking GOOD KICK: BAD KICK: Same deal here.the horizontal line of force crumples the targets body around the point of impact. His hair and spit show the continuance of the force of the punch.

.but still it could be better.travelled a long distance.in one frame you can see that the target was thrown...and landed hard. sound effects or speech balloons. Best Booooom! Choosing an angle that shows the moment of impact really pulls this action together. Arms and legs akimbo! Again.... . To show this move took him out of commision. The composition is more pleasing and leaves room for backgrounds.curved motion lines along the trajectory of the throw parlay the action. I'd use this angle if the target was going to hit something important or was going to get out of the damage by landing on his feet. we need some closure.This is much better in the sense that you can really tell the target has been thrown...

The inner oval goes from hairline to chin. I draw an additional oval shape inside to help me keep the facial features centered on the front plane of the head. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint.That's how we got what you see to the left. espescially femal ones.the chin Add the chin. .. Front View : Step 3-Facial Divisions Split the face shape in half vertically and horizontally.Front View : Step 1. This line is the bottom of the ear and nose line. Manga faces.. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely.the oval Draw a circle. are heartshaped. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this. Front View : Step 2. These axis lines are the Nose line (vertical) and the eyeline (horizontal). Divide the lower portion in half again horizontally. Imagine cutting off the top round parts of a valentine heart shape and attaching the lower part to a sphere.

Feature Placement Divide the lowest portion into 3rds. . The Mouth should be as wide as the space between the inside corners of the eyes.the eyes Eye proportions depend on the "Cute" level of the character you're drawing. The ears should be placed on the same line that the bottom of the nose is on. Profiles are a bit easier than frontview and way easier than 3/4 view. Ears span from the lower noseline to just above the eyeline. The eyes should be apporxmately 1 "eye" length apart from each other and half an eye length in from the edge of the face. 1/3 down from the horizontal noseline is the mouthline. I place the corners of the eyes on the horizontal eyeline. I do more serious stuff so my eyes aren't as large as some other styles of Manga. I've noticed cute or comical story characters have larger eyes.Front View : Step 4. Front View : Step 5. Set up still starts with a ball and a cone.

.we put on what I call the "gas mask".. The nose is slightly upturned.well. The eye is located on a gentle upward curve from the edge of the mouth.. Once you have this you're ready for some detailing. This Gasmask shape will get tweaked into the nose and mouth on the next page. You know the eyes get located on the middle horizontal bisecting line... this is for EAR placement. The other thing to note is that the head gets bisected vertically.. I start the slope outward from just below the eyeline and run it back down to the chin. Sorry for the mess. you got your cone for the chin. . Whoa! That's a bad gif.but you still get to see the basic underlying structure used to get here..so what's new? In detailing this image. The ear is still located on the horizontal axises provided by the eye and the mouth.You got yer ball for the head.. Ok... The forehead is smooth and rounded. I'll have to rescan it.thing to note are: The upper lip is smaller and darker than the lower lip.

the upper 3rd is the Mouth line. These axis lines are the ear line (vertical) and the eyeline (horizontal). . Profile : Step 2.the chin Add the chin. Profile: Step 4.More Divisions Divide the space between the eyeline and the chin in half. Notice the ear sits in the verticle axis toward the back of the head and rest between the nose line and the brow line. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this. This is the "Bottom of the Ear and Nose" line. The Jawline should come back towards the center of the bottom edge of the circle as shown here. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely.the oval Draw a circle.Profile : Step 1. Divide the space below the noseline into 3rds. Profile : Step 3-Facial Divisions Split the face shape in half vertically and horizontally. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint. The chin will come down from the center point of the outside edge of the circle to about half that length below the bottom edge of the circle.

. this one also starts with a egg/sphere set up. The outside corner of the eye should hit this new division line and the inside corner should be just inside of the outer edge of the mouth.the eye Divide the space between the front of the head and the vertical earline axis. This is where we place the eye on the eyeline. Profile: Step 3-Hair Line The Hairline is located by drawing a 45 degree angle from the intersection of the horizontal eye line and the vertical ear line.the opposite is true for "looking down..here we have the basic set up for the head. The middle horizontal line for the eyes and the verticle line tell us which ways she's a lookin'. Here I chose a basic 3/4 bisect. The difference is where you bi-sect it.Profile : Step 2. Female head: 3/4 view Stage1 Okay. If I chose to put the eye-line higher than center I could make her "look up". .. As with most other setup's.

.Detail Start with the blue circle.wa ha ha) The mouth line is halfway between the chin and eyeline. Draw a line from the mouthline to the newly appointed eye placement point on the horizontal eyeline.but this is anime and the face is smaller...EARplane. Here you will have to figure on what is halfway between the ear plane and nose plane to decide eye placement... Bisect the sphere vertically in half along the directional axis. Ready to move on to stage 2? . The nose line is a little less than halfway between the mouth and eyeline. Normal proportions say that line is for the nose. It's a good idea to decide wich way she'll be looking at this point since you can't put the chin on till ya know. make a triangle to figure where the other eye should go.closer to the mouth. This triangle also serves as a nice guide to keep the features all snug and secure in the head. I use 1 vertical line to decide the eye/nose mouth plane and 1 to decide the ear plane (not airplane.Female head: 3/4 view Stage1.

The "Speculars" or glinty things in the eye should be used to give some sense or direction for wich way the eyes are looking. Eyes go on the points of the triangle we established in the detail section. I'm trying to be a generic as possible here. The Eyes and Cheek/chin give the character mass and depth so they should be heavier and detailed. eh? At this point you kinda know what she's gonna look like but to keep your drawing from looking as flat and unappealing as a pokemon coloring book we need to add "weight" to some lines and fade up on others. Add more detail to the eyes and ears. Shadows go well under the nose. To keep her dainty we need to keep the lines of the nose and mouth thinner. Keep those speculars even!! She still doesn't quite look like a hotty yet so we need to imbelish on the established lines a bit. There's many different styles and variations in Anime. . Hair is also kinda "whispy" so be careful with the line weight there. lowe lip and under the chin. If you don't get them exactly even (Like what I did here for illustrative purposes) you get the impression that she's cross-eyed. Make the upper eyelash line thicker. Drop on some wild Anime hair do!! Female head: 3/4 view Stage3 Whoa!! What a difference a few lines make.Female head: 3/4 view Stage2 Startiing to get the idea? All that framework we did before is so this part would be easy.

3/4 View : Step 1. Little adjustments will have to be made over the course of the drawing. 1/3 down from that is the mouth line.Feature Placement Divide the lower portion of the face in half horizontaly to provide the bottom of the nose line. .the chin Add the chin. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely. A 45 degree angle between the eyeline and the vertical earline is where we place the hairline. The Noseline should extend in a curved line from the top of the head to the point of the chin. For now just make something like you see here. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint. Follow the curve of the face toward the back to see that the bottom of the ear sits on this same line. 3/4 View : Step 3-Facial Divisions Split the face shape in half vertically and horizontally. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this. A little gues work is involved here as far as were to bow the cheek curve in at the eyeline and how sharp an angle to do the Jawline. Notice how the jawline meets up with the vertical earline 3/4 View : Step 4. are heartshaped. These axis lines are the Nose line (vertical) and the eyeline (horizontal). 3/4 View : Step 2.the oval Draw a circle. Manga faces. espescially femal ones. The top of the ear indicates the "Brow" line. The top of the ear should extend just above the Eyeline.

I set the corners of the eye on that line. After lots of practice you won't need to draw as many setup lines. Just a fast loose stick figure that will serve as our foundation piece. This is to simulate the curvature of the head. Note that the form is 7 heads high. Notice that the eye father away from the viewer is shorter in length.the eyes Eyes are to be placed on the eyeline (imagine that). It takes a little bit of practice to make this look right but if you laid out all your proportion lines correctly it will make the task of feature placement much easier.3/4 View : Step 5. Keep it loose at this stage but be wary of your proportions. Knees are 5 heads down. Hips are 3 heads down. NEXT . Shoulders and hips are 2 heads wide. The Female Body Here we are at stage 1: Nothing fancy. Shoulders are a Head and a half from the top.

The Female Body stick figure stage 2: Notice that you can draw a line straight up and down from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet. the legs are slightly longer than the upper half of the body. Body mass is distibuted equally on both sides of this axis for balance. The Knees are located halfway between the top of the hip and the bottom of the foot. sexy stance by slatning the shoulders and hips in different directions. TORSO The female torso can be defined in casual. ARMS 2 and a half heads down is where we locate the belly button. This is also where the elbow goes if the arm is hanging naturally at her sides. LEGS In ANIME. NEXT . The arm starts at the shoulder and ends with the hands around mid-thigh.

Try to use only curved lines. You have to be good at drawing cylinders and ovals to do this right. Curvy. It has the female form all broken down into it's basic shapes and was a powerful influence for me as far as getting my sketches to this stage. Nothing on a human being is ruler-edge straight but that goes double for a female. arms and legs are formed. Curvy.The Female Body Sketch figure stage 1: Now we start to flesh her out a bit. NEXT . Now's where you start tightening up your art. Grab a kneaded eraser and start blotting away the fine sketchy lines and keep only the lines you wish to use for your final piece. Study muscle groups to get an idea of how the shoulders. The Breast are located at the halfway point of the upper torso. The cleaner you get at the end of this stage makes the next stage that much easier. Curvy! A good study model is Shirow's M-66 unit from Black Magic.

usable piece of art. I go over and start correcting mistakes I made in the building process and get the art really tight for inking. removing my stray lines and getting a nice. There's nothing worse than inking sloppy pencils so BE CLEAN!! NEXT . clean.The Female Body Sketch figure stage 2: I gradually start to build her by outlining my fleshed out sketch from the last stage and smoothing over all the "Ball and Cone" joints I used to build her with. The Kneaded eraser is my best friend at this point as I blot over her.

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Hope this helps somewhat. Try to use the rules here to make different poses and characters. Back to Tutorials! .The Female Body Final Figure: .. It shouldn't be used as an A to B to C tutorial because that just shows you how to copy stuff. I will have another tutorial on the female in action and even a "How to draw males" class. Not my best ink job but it gets the point across... All traces of pencil are removed at this point and I take the final inked sketch to the scanner and get her all colored up.P) This tutorial is to serve as a reference guide to give you an idea of how to construct a body.let me know if I can explain anything further to you and I'll do my best to assist. (I just so happen to have a tutorial explaining how to do that .. As always.and here she is.

The eyes are the big deal. Notice how the iris takes up most of the surface area of the orb. If you ask anyone about the style of anime/manga they always comment on the eyes. Below is an approach to a broadly used generic style. The Lids wrap around the contour of the orb. Step 3: the Pupil The eye in a relaxed state hides some of the pupil and iris behind the lids.just a few consistant traits. I put this tutorial together as a primer. The Eyelid hugs the curvature of the eye. . This occurs only in Anime/Manga and a few black velvet posters from the 60's.. (eye side view tutorial to follow) Step 1: Ball As with most things.the eye also starts as a circle. There are literally thousands of styles of "Manga Eyes" so there is no set rules for drawing them. Imagine streching a sheet of rubber over a cue ball. Adapt it to suit your own needs. This represents the orb of the eye and helps with the general placement of the eye in the skull.. Step 2: Lids Here's where most budding artist go wrong.

the eye. The light enters the eye from the upper left and exits through the lower right. In this case.If the light is coming from the upper left. The thickness of the lashes will depend on a character. The upper lip is like those seagulls you used to draw when you were a kid. I find this order also works well for eyes. fluttering lashes. The wider open the mouth. In Manga. Flesh out the eyelids with some heavy duty.. The lower lip is more like a Bow from a bow and arrow set. 1) start light and press harder as you move to the outside. Speculars are also used to add emotion to the character. This eye is more for the sexy adult female Stroke Order: I didn't really have this part down until I started studying "Kanji". Japanese Kanji is produced by a series of strokes in a specific order and pattern.. Open and shut case These shape principles remain the whether the moust is open or shut.the specular should be on the upper left of the iris. The placement of the specular on the eye should be indicative of the light source. Step 5: Spectacuar Speculars A "Specular" is the reflection of light on a reflective surface. It also draws the viewers attention.. It adds sparkling life to happy eyes and quivering tears to sad eyes.. Lush Lashes Up until now the eye was kinda "Blah". in this case. Obviously Male characters won't have this trait and younger females should also have a thinner line.the more streched the lip therefore you should draw it thinner if it is WIDE open. However.Step 4: Long. . This adds weight to the eye so it's not ust floating around on the face. 2) Start harder and lighten pressure as you move down 3) Start medium and lighten pressure as you move down 4) Start light and increase pressure as you move to the outside. Understand the Shape The mouth has a "Bow" shape to it.

. He tends to draw lips on his characters as well . since this is anime. I intentionally drew this pic in "Ultra-Shirow" mode since Shirow is one of the few manga artist that actually draw lips. Here's a low detail anime mouth. Mouths are only as wide as the inside corner of the eyes (for women).. BUT.. Check out Adam Warren's stuff too. Add some teeth and darken the interior of the mouth (if visible) to give it some depth.a little too big sometimes but it still looks good. if a person is looking straight ahead you could draw a dotted line from the middle of their eye down their face and find the corners of the mouth. Keeping it "Anime" Traditionally. ..but we are going to expand on this. Upper lip should be darker than the lower lip. Detailing Work in the lips as shown here and in the first 2 pics. Begin to visualize this as a 3D object. That's how you would normally determine width.Step 1: The setup Now that you now the difference between the top and bottom lip we can begin to apply that to our traditiona anime mouth. If there was an upper row of teeth visible and maybe a small shadow to define the lower lip we would be done. Step 2: bow in the top lip a bit Start to work in that Seagull shape to the top lip. I have made a few centerlines here to help me define the correct angle of the lips for the next step. If you are coloring the piece.it's best define the lips through color shading.

k. Step 2: Big head. It's a deceptively simple process I'll take you through now.Chibi Art (a.a Super Deformed): "Chibi" is a Japanese term for "small". DON'T: Make a Mickey Mouse styled cartoon hand . Chibi art is used a lot to convey humour or cuteness (kawaii mono).do's and dont's DO: make a small. Build a mannequin out of basic shapes. Chubby forearms tapering into dainty little fingers. Step1: Two heads are better than 1 Chibi characters are only 2 heads high. Use similar techniques to construct this body as you do a regular sized body. well formed hand like a baby's hand. The arms and legs taper to a rounded point. Start your drawing by stacking 2 same sized ovals on top of each other. Little body Now that you know how little space you have to make the body sketch in some cute little pose. Step 3a: Hands .

The nose is not defined as a strong line. The mouth is like the letter "D" turned on it's side. The leg should come straight down into the foot. DON'T: Make a Disney-esque little Lu Lu foot.do's and dont's DO: Taper the leg down to a tiny nub.Step 3b: Feet . Make a small line to separate the foot from the leg. Step 5: Cleaning up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep. Step 4: Define the key features. Voila . From here it's pretty easy. Don't actually define the typical wedgey foot. Slap on some clothes and start adding details. You don't really need to define the knees. Like a tiny balerina foot. dats so cute. It's best to leave it out all together or define iy with shading if you decide to color it in. awwwwww..

A nice little Chibi friend to call your own. .And there we have it..ain't she sweet?! Maybe I'll make a keychain out of her.

. Note that the form is 7 heads high. Shoulders are a Head and a half from the top. Shoulders are 2 or more heads wide. Just a fast loose stick figure that will serve as our foundation piece. (more for heroic types.less for dweebies) Hips are about a head and a half wide. Hips are 3 heads down. Hips should be narrower than the shoulders.. Knees are 5 heads down.The Male Body Here we are at stage 1: Nothing fancy. Keep it loose at this stage but be wary of your proportions.

. The Knees are located halfway between the top of the hip and the bottom of the foot.The Male Body stick figure stage 2: Notice that you can draw a line straight up and down from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet. the legs are slightly longer than the upper half of the body. ARMS 2 and a half heads down is where we locate the belly button. The arm starts at the shoulder and ends with the hands around mid-thigh. Body mass is distibuted equally on both sides of this axis for balance.(mouse over the image to see the guides)This is also where the elbow goes if the arm is hanging naturally at his sides. LEGS In ANIME.

Here's a little help for the chest. Grab a kneaded eraser and start blotting away the fine sketchy lines and keep only the lines you wish to use for your final piece.The Male Body Sketch figure stage 1: Study muscle groups to get an idea of how the shoulders. arms and legs are formed. The cleaner you get at the end of this stage makes the next stage that much easier. Emphasis is placed on the shoulders rather than the hips. Now's where you start tightening up your art. . The Male figure carries itself different than the female.

There's nothing worse than inking sloppy pencils so BE CLEAN!! .The Male Body Sketch figure stage 2: I gradually start to build him by outlining my fleshed out sketch from the last stage and smoothing over all the "Ball and Cone" joints I used to build him with. The Kneaded eraser is my best friend at this point as I blot over her. I go over and start correcting mistakes I made in the building process and get the art really tight for inking. usable piece of art. clean. removing my stray lines and getting a nice.

As always.. It shouldn't be used as an A to B to C tutorial because that just shows you how to copy stuff. Try to use the rules here to make different poses and characters.The Male Body Final Figure: This tutorial is to serve as a reference guide to give you an idea of how to construct a body. .let me know if I can explain anything further to you and I'll do my best to assist..

See how we'll attach the limbs? (note: you should make the bean over an existing stick figure... Balloon animals OK.. That center line is ESSENTIAL to keeping your bodies from looking lopsided.) A finished work The fact that I used a bean shape to make this torso would be all but unoticable if I hadn't greyed it in. This will help you make actions poses in later steps.That's Easy! Draw a bean shape and divide it vertically down the center.I.. Try this method out if your finished art is looking too blocky.I was looking at some books and going through some basic animation reviews when I saw an old trick on doing cartoon character bodies using the "Flour Sack" method..legs and arms popped off. Divide it horizontally abot 2/3rds of the way down. Pay attention to it's contours.Joe doll with the head.just vaguely bean shaped..male torso. I call it the "Bean" method. (Does it look like Ryo Hazuki to anyone else?) ...so it's not really a bean. Note that the centerline twist with it. A new view Imagine now that it's your old school G.. We'll call that the waist line. The work has a more fluid feel to it."hmm.. I modified it a bit to fit in with a more realistic look.there may already be a bean method but I'm unaware of it. easy and I didn't spend an hour working on the upper torso and waist as seperate entities. It was quick. Dont start your drawing with the bean.but if you think.kidney bean".complicated".. Here's my take: Draw a bean You sit down to draw and you think "hmm. Imagine now that it's inflated and you can twist it like a balloon animal.

Make the angles sharper and the chin square. Measure out the face by figuring the top of the head..the chin Add the chin and Jawline.don't come to a point.. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint.the oval Draw a circle. . I'll stick with a standard type here. 3/4 View : Step 2. For now just make something like you see here. Male faces aren't as round and heart-shaped as female faces. Double check your proportions. Be creative. It seems there are more variations available for the male face than the female face. 3/4 View : Step 1. The Torso in it's entirety is about 3 heads high (from collar to groin) The upper torse being 2 heads and the waist being 1 head tall.A bean at any angle: Practice drawing the bean shape from different angles and imagining how the limbs would attach to it in that position.the bottom of the chin and the eyeline about halfway between.

3/4 View : Step 4. Make them more "Wedge" shaped. .in which case. It helps me keep the features together and tight. It also helps define your character as distictly male if your having problems with you males looking to "feminine" (Or maybe you draw bishoujo style. Male eyes aren't as large and sparkly as female eyes. The mouth about 1/3 the way down from that. The nose should not be tipped up like on female faces.That Male Face The Cheekbones and Jawline is what really helps differentiate your character from other male characters you will create. The ear is placed vertically between the browline and the noseline.3/4 View : Step 3-Facial Divisions Here I decide the facial planes. Make the eyebrows strong and dark.Clearing it up Now you can start to erase your support lines and concentrate on detailing the features. the bottom of the nose sits on a line halfway between the eyeline and the chin. They are more rectangular than almond shaped and the lash lines arent as heavy..Rough it in Here I lightly figure where the feeatures go using the same rules you learned in my other head tutorials. Notice how the jawline meets up with the vertical earline 3/4 View : Step 4. 3/4 View : Step 4. nevermind). Eyes approximately 1 eye-width apart.

so you've mastered the typical standing figure and now you want them to actualy fight and move. The key to a good action pose is a strong foundation and the stick figure will help us with that. .. I made the halftone in photoshop to give it that "manga" feel Action: ok.stay fast and loose.. The key here is the stick figure and the line of motion. Make little circles to show where the joints and head are. Just make a solid stick man. Lot's of artist (myself included once) got all caught up in the clothes and muscles and details waaaaay to early in the drawing. Pre-Step: Stick Figure Hero! This is as complicated as you should get when making a stick figure. I just concentrate on making the gesture believable and dynamic. The character is crouched down behind a bar ready to jump out and fight Gunz-a-blazin'. Step 1: Stick figure set-up Here I got a JohnWoo set-up. Don't worry about fingers and toes.3/4 View : Now you got it Here's what I came up with for a final version (granted a messy one).

Step 3: Fleshing it out In my 2 prior tutorials I show you how to draw body parts using balls. through the body via the spine and out . Voila Step 1: Stick figure set-up Here I got a superhere type set-up. cones and cylinders. I just concentrate on making the gesture believable and dynamic.Keep fast and loose. Keep the integrity of the stickfigure and lightly work in the body shapes. I build the stick figure on this line.Step 2: How do I make it Dynamic? The first thing I draw (and I shoulda shown this first) is the Line of motion. Step 4: Finishing up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep.check those out for help on this step.. I just posted another tutorial on Foreshortening. The character is ready to throw a punch and defend justice.don't press to hard with the pencil here. .. This line is a smooth curve that goes from the top of the characters head.

. I build the stick figure on this line. This line is a smooth curve that goes from the top of the characters head.Keep fast and loose.. cones and cylinders. through the body via the spine and out . Step 3: Fleshing it out In my 2 prior tutorials I show you how to draw body parts using balls. Step 4: Finishing up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep. Keep the integrity of the stickfigure and lightly work in the body shapes.check those out for help on this step. I just posted another tutorial on Foreshortening.don't press to hard with the pencil here. Voila .Step 2: How do I make it Dynamic? The first thing I draw (and I shoulda shown this first) is the Line of motion.

Keep the integrity of the stickfigure and lightly work in the body shapes. Step 4: Finishing up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep. Step 2: How do I make it Dynamic? The first thing I draw (and I shoulda shown this first) is the Line of motion. I just concentrate on making the gesture believable and dynamic. Get your friends to pose for you or clip pictures from action movie magazines.check those out for help on this step. Step 3: Fleshing it out In my 2 prior tutorials I show you how to draw body parts using balls. The character is sneaking into the headquarters of GloboChem to steal the plans for the experimental biotoxin.. This line is a smooth curve that goes from the top of the characters head. I build the stick figure on this line. . Anytime you see a pose you like GRAB IT! You never know when you might need it. Voila Final Note: Nothing helps with out action drawing like good reference material.don't press to hard with the pencil here.. through the body via the spine and out .Keep fast and loose.Step 1: Stick figure set-up Here I got a spy type set-up. After a while you'll be able to draw right out of your own head. cones and cylinders. I just posted another tutorial on Foreshortening.

I'm sticking to the basics here so I'm going to draw a humanoid mech. Mecha : Step 2. I make sure I leave the shoulders wide and the legs set apart for balance.. Hopefully this will be worth the effort.is it for urban use? Space? Does it doe heavy lifting? Does it need to be fast? Does it need to withstand harsh environments? ..roughing in Now here's where I do mechs different than humans. sensor arrays.so here's my first tutorial I'm doing under protest. You don't even have to make them humanoid.Ok.. I'm not really a great mecha artist so I feel a bit uncomfortable showing others how to draw one. If I do I always end up with a Transformer type mech and those are too blocky and old school.. I'll try to explain some of my philosophy on designing one which may spark an idea or two for you. Large bulges that house machinery. I dont really do the Ball & Cone setup. though armored. Mecha : Step 1-the structure Like everything. Instead I think bulky and powerful. I try and make sure the joints. What good is a mech if it can't make it's hands meet in front of it. Think about the function of the mech. With Mechs you can be more creative with the proportions. can move freely.ect.. Armored joints. I start with a stick figure.

. Machines look better with a heavy outline and fine lines on interior details.Mech : Step 3-detailing After I get to a shape I'm happy with I start erasing unecessary lines and and darkening the ones I want to keep. This mechs about 9 ft tall and unmanned Mech : Step 4. I use a realatively thin line for the details. I add seam lines and tiny access panels all over the meI made the chest cavity large cuz because that's where the engine would have to be.inking I've added a few more details and got the the inking stage.

So I thought it would be more useful to show you how clothes behave on the body. Print this picture out and grab a pencil to follow along . There's too many styles.I was asked to put together a tutorial on clothing. make sure you have them fleshed out correctly (see the body tutorial if you need help with proportions). That way you can at least get the physics right and design whatever you want. Instead. Here Ive included lines to help me place the waistline. I figured my goal shouldn't be to show you how to draw clothes. boots and sleeves but no details yet. Step 1: Draw a basic figure When you first draw your character don't worry about putting clothes on yet.

The folds on clothes are determined by kinetic force and gravity. . Clothes flow over the body like water.Step 2: track the motion. Her right leg is forward which pulls the fabric tight over her upper leg and creates a fabric flow in the direction of motion. What results are sweeping lines from the shoulders to the tuck point. Let's see how this works. Poly is twisting at the waistline and the part of her shirt thats tucked in is pinned in place but her chest and shoulders have rotated to the left (our left) and pulled the fabric along with them.

how does the hoola hoop hang? Which part of your arm is touching the hoola hoop? The part that touches would be were the clothing would outline your arm and the folds would radiate out and away from there. neck and legs. waist.Step 3: Go with the flow I now start to fill in the clothing based on the lines I discoverd on the last page. Imagine small hoola hoops around your arms. Fold lines radiate out and away from the bends.). Notice the clothing is smooth and taught over areas that are bent or push against the fabric (her left knee. . Other areas of clothes in a more relaxed state. her chest.. (cont. If you raise your arm. her left elbow. her right thigh). succumb to gravity and fall in downwards.

The buckle is undone by pressing the tabs toward each other and pulling the ends apart. Burne Hogarth has an exceptional book on this subject called "Dynamic Wrinkles and Drapery" Need help with Buckles and laces? You would think the buckle is simple but most people represent it as a square box on a thick line. try and make it like you see here.they interlock as shown here.Step 4: Clean up If you lept to the right wearing the hoola hoop. . Zippers are usually represented as a zig-zag if you are distanced from your character. A little attention to detail will make your pics looks sharper. Here's a Quick Release buckle. The strap is made of webbing instead of leather. You would notice the hoop would touch our waist on the right side and hang towards the area you lept from to the left. Draw the buckle as shown here with the strap overlapping the back end of the buckle and ticking into the loop. Clothes can be drawn in the same manner. Each "tooth" is a small square with a circle on top of it..used for military type characters. They bunch up and hang in the opposite direction of the motion. but for close ups.. It takes a little extra time but people notice the effort. It'll take some practice to get it to look right. When you landed the hoop would carry the force back to the right trying to continue in the direction you leapt towards.

These aer available on most major gun brand websites: http://www. Show them overlapping each other and passing through the eyelets.sigarms. Please. since the laces are pullig toward each other there will be buckling in the material around the stress points. Again. The tongue of the shoe/boot should push through the criss cross a little bit to give the impression that the laces are cinched down on the shoe. . the Frame and the Grip (handle). The more you know about the mechanics of guns the better if your a detail freak. The major parts of a pistol is the Slide. DISCLAIMER: Guns and Youths are a controversial topic today and I realize many of my readers are young adults. Notice how I curved the material around the eyelets to show that. Show the one docking end smaller and rounded on the lip.I can't find my template. Also. Sorry for the messy ovals. Laces are often represented as criss cross lines.com/ Beats getting the suspicious looks when buying a gun magazine.glock. My intent is only to show you how to draw guns for comic book purposes.. If you are under 18.com/ http://www. The Basic Pistol The best way to draw a gun is to look at pictures of guns. Help keep Rosie O'Donnell off my back. please check with your parents before visiting the handgun websites or continuing with this tutorial. good for detail in a close up. Here we have a Glock 26 or "Baby Glock" 9x19 Basic Shapes Break the gun down into basic shapes.com/ http://www.ruger-firearms.Snaps are pretty straight forward and you don't really get to see the 2 halves together unless the jacket is open.com/ http://www. I like to just get by. It looks better if you draw the laces as 3D objects rather than a quick line.hecklerkoch-usa.

Build up a scrapbook of guns to whip out whenever your stuck. Again..The Guts My father's a gun aficionado so he'll laugh his head off when he sees my lame cross-section and explanation. I've contoured the grip and made the trigger well a bit more comfortable.. The Grey area is the basic shape we already had. Only reference material will help you here. the firing pin (not shown) smacks the back of the bullet and sends the lead part flying down the barrel.the red sillouette is more or less the actual shape of a Glock26.. Pulling back on the slide pulls the first bullet out of the clip and into the chamber.. When the trigger is squeezed. Wanna see more? .. reference material helps a lot. The force of the bullet leaving slams the slide back and loads the next bullet into the chamber.just look at Shirow's Seburo sidearms! A little Detail Notice I've added a bevel to the slide and put the verticle grips on the rear of the slide..after you get more comfortable with styles of pistols you can start getting creative with the lines. The esthetics Now that we now the basic shap and what components are needed to make a gun it's time to pretty it up a little with some sleek lines.but it's more detail than a comic book artist usually needs :) The handle should be wide and long enough to accomodate the clip.the brass casing ejects out the top of the gun...

Make sure the top of the barrel lines up with the top of the cylinder so the bullet can exit the gun safely.. pivot foward for quick loading (ala TRIGUN). Detailing: Have fun with it. Check out the gun manufacturer links on the previous page. Some.. The most important difference is a Cylinder( shown in red) instead of a clip. The trigger ratchets the cylinder around to bring the next full chamber up to the barrel. like this one.fo you.. Some have the cylinder flip out to the side.don't worry about it.and smacks the butt of the bullet and sends the lead flying down the barrel.The Basic Shapes The Revolvers has a few different parts than the Pistol. Reloading There's a few styles of revolver.. Pulling back on the trigger also releases the (green) hammer. There's some really sweet "New Style" revolvers. . I gave this one a laser sight under the barrel and a nice ergonomic grip so it doesn't look like an old cowboy gun... You could take off the whole empty cylinder and slap another loaded one in there.. depending on single or double action.

I start by just having a grid of 6 squares...which panels should be small. ..yadda yadda I lay the new roughs on a light table and repencil them in a SUPER clean fashion.PolyKarbon StoryBoards Page1 Storyboards are essential for laying out action and deciding camera angles..ect. 1) Character pulls coin from pocket 2) Character examines it (The journey of the coin from the pocket to being in front of the face is not important) So I would have 1 panel being the character rummaging for the coin and the next panel being the coin held up in front of the character..See? After I'm happy with the roughs I can start concentrating on how they would "panel out" on a page.. . Only 1 action per square! For example: Script says "Character pulls a coin from pocket and examines it" There are 2 important actions there. Working from the script I draw each important action in its own square..which panels should be big.make sure my perspective is correct...

.ect.which panels should be small. .make sure my perspective is correct. Working from the script I draw each important action in its own square.which panels should be big. I start by just having a grid of 6 squares...PolyKarbon StoryBoards Page2 Storyboards are essential for laying out action and deciding camera angles..yadda yadda I lay the new roughs on a light table and repencil them in a SUPER clean fashion..See? After I'm happy with the roughs I can start concentrating on how they would "panel out" on a page. 1) Character pulls coin from pocket 2) Character examines it (The journey of the coin from the pocket to being in front of the face is not important) So I would have 1 panel being the character rummaging for the coin and the next panel being the coin held up in front of the character.... . Only 1 action per square! For example: Script says "Character pulls a coin from pocket and examines it" There are 2 important actions there..

PolyKarbon Date:07-00 I've had several requests to post some more of my "technical" work stuff. This here is a Turnaround or Model Sheet. I use t to make sure I'm drawing her the same way everytime. I also use it to help me figure out her proportions to other characters and objects. After I draw the initial views..Front, Back and Side..I lay the original on a light table and trace the form out so I can save time when drawing another set to describe another outfit.s .

PolyKarbon: Karmon Stroud Character sheet 10-2000 Stroud is, for all intents and purposes, Poly's personal assistant. He hacks systems for her, supplies weapons and ammo, reminds her of critical jobs..ect. Only he kinda sucks at his job. She'd get rid of him but he's a relative of her employers and has no choice but to put up with his ineptitude. He's cocky, sleezy and basically untrustworthy. He does have skills...he just too lazy to bother with details sometimes.

PolyKarbon: Hohner Character sheet 10-2000 Hohner was born with Down's Syndrome. A wetware prosthetic compensates for his condition..however, Hohner sometimes has trouble dealing with the stark contrast in the way he used to view the world versus the way he sees it now through the "SmartJack". He works as Poly's extra muscle, confidant and moral center. He spends most of his time trying to keep Poly honest and restraining himself from killing Stroud.

I usually just toss it out onto the paper so I can get it out of my head and start tweaking it to look better. From these roughs I'll relay everything out nice and clean and maybe shift things around so I can fit dialog in better.PolyKarbon: The Manga 09-2000 Here's the first page in extremely rough form. You can kinda see where I drew text boxes in. .

PolyKarbon: The Manga 09-2000 Here's the second page in extremely rough form. . even though it's rough Itry to get a feel for the camera angles and balances between light and shadow. Notice.

BackGround Date:010-00 I made this for the purpose of adding action over the top of it like in animation. Mostly it was an exercise in perspective and colors. .

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