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Due to such mass production business units the real essence of Jaipur razai is becoming extinct. The razai’s have made us feel proud of our craft. These razai’s have given so much to Jaipur. Now it is becoming a business to earn money by forgetting the actual rules of craft. National. madras and south India which experience little winters and European countries where temperature even goes below zero degrees prefer to have Jaipuri razai and people can’t move away from its beauty. They are losing their charm (like that of bagru print) due to machine printing and other easy ways which are involved in production. The speciality of these razai attracts many people and foreign tourists. Cities like Bombay.Like that of Hawa-mahal. Jantar-Mantar and Amber the soft and light weight Jaipur razai have their own uniqueness.International popularity is the reason for employment of thousands of people. JAIPURI RAZAI . The day by day growing new shops and units which make false (nakli) Jaipuri razai’s are ruining the udhyog.
Now it is neatly filled inside the cover and tagaai starts. Tagaai was done with cotton thread and needle. circular. The level of cotton is same allover. Nilgar and Rangrez. Their father Lakshmi narayan besides keeping other textile pieces use to keep a special type of red cloth which was popular amongst Jaipur Muslims. Manihaar. Mahawats. On white voile beautiful buttis were printed. This red cloth was brought after dyeing it from Rupangad. straight and zigzag lines. Then the cotton was filled inside the khol. The two narayan brothers have started their razai business in 1935. The cloth was brought from bazaar and a darzi use to make a khol. . Then this printed cloth piece was taken to a tailor who use to make a khol.Rich people preferred to buy these luxurious razai’s which common people couldn’t. It was whole heartily welcomed in the aristocrats’ of Jaipur. the process was tedious and sometimes used to take more than two months. belbuttas. The razai which were prepared under Lakshmi Narayan Mangilal firm were the solution to this tedious and time consuming process. 40-50 . The cotton was brought from a vyapari and then it was beaten with a pindara.It began with two businessman brothers’ Govind Narayan and Narayan Lal. Tagaai was done in many designs such as local motifs. The cotton then starts growing up like a flower and different kinds of perfumes were sprayed. These razai’s have their own speciality. The cost of such razai’s used to go upto Rs. It was done so that cotton should not slip or move. The best quality cotton was coloured/ dyed in various colours and was cleaned with the help of tant.
The outer surface of the fiber is covered with a protective wax like coating. Egyptian cotton. .The cotton which is filled inside is first cleaned by the process of carding. COTTON: cotton is a natural fibre harvested from cotton plant. Three types of cotton which are filled inside are: Desi cotton. that keeps the cotton bunch intact and quality of cotton does not get deteriorated. 30. It also provides soft feel. The fiber has a wide inner hollow. giving the fiber an adhesive like quality . Earlier pure cotton was used. Each fiber is a single elongated cell that is generally flat.Raw Materials 1. When the raw cotton is brought. Semal cotton. 120 per kilogram and polyfill Rs. Cotton has been cultivated for more than 5000 years. The rest consists of natural impurities. it is always along with a cotton seed. twisted and has a ribbon like structure. The fiber is composed of about 90 % cellulose and around 6% moisture. Pure cotton costs Rs. Polyfill is used because it is much cheaper and strong than natural cotton. It was then cleaned by hand with a tool called pindian. Nowadays cotton is being replaced by synthetic fibres such as polyfill.
Due to changing times and requirement of people the traditional soft Mulmul is being replaced by a number of other fabrics. Velvet can be made from silk as well as cotton. This fabric can’t bear more than 2 winters and costs Rs. shear jhina. Low quality shaneil has a bad odour. Pure shaneil is costly so people prefer it less. It also has many defects. lustrous fabric having a soft feel and thicker than Mulmul. Velvet is a woven fabric in which cut threads are very evenly distributed. But slowly the threads started getting decreased. CLOTH FOR RAZAI COVER earlier in traditional Jaipuri razai’s cover was made of Mulmul fabric which had 120 weft and 120 warp in weaving. Shaneil. 7-8 per metre.Mulmul started coming in 100x100 and 80x100 – 80x90. This Mulmul fabric is lighter.2. makhmal and velvet are also in demand. Shaneil has two types low quality and fine shaneil. . Shaneil is a shiny.
In stage one. It comes as Rs. 150 per kg. It is 120 number thread without starch. Mostly saat khane. Earlier when the razais were made for Jaipuri rajgharanas the designs were very intricate. Tagai is done in two stages. kachcha or mota kaam is done to stable the cotton and achieve same level of cotton everywhere. CLOTH FOR MAGZI: magzi is the outer border of Jaipuri razai. . After this in second stage. gol design are done.pechak ka dhaga is also used for tagai. THREAD FOR TAGAAI: mostly cotton thread is used for tagai. pakka kaam is done. It is done in accordance to the design and motifs. It used to take a lot of time. paan ke patte. Threads are usually in form of gol gittas. Mainly tagai was done in white coloured thread but nowadays almost every colour thread is being used.3. Tagai is done mainly by women workers 4.
PREPARATION OF TANT The procedure to prepare tant is highly difficult and time consuming. Only one double razai gets properly filled by pindian. This tool acts as a hammer and is called damroo. The process of cleaning cotton by pindian is very tedious and laborious. Now a wire is made from it by cleaning it again. Ten to twelve reshe of this wire are joined together and twisted. TANT: It is a wire which is attached to wooden pindian and beaten by a damroo for cleaning of cotton. After that its pakaai is done. This procedure iis repeated continuously for eight to ten days. It has a wire attached to it which is continuously beaten by a small drum like tool. Now it is kept in aakde ke dodh for seven to eight days. Firstly goat intestines are brought and are cleaned properly. .PINDIAN: It is a wooden tool which is used for spreading cotton over cover. It is made from bakre ki aant( goat intestine).
SMALL RAZAI: It is little smaller than medium razai. It is approximately one by one meter. DOUBLE RAZAAI: It is of 108 by 108 inches . Mostly people prefer buying this as it is convenient for one person to use. MEDIUM RAZAAI: It is of 7 feet by 7 feet.SIZES IN JAIPURI RAZAI BABY QUILT: It is usually made for small children with beautiful bagru and sanganeri prints.
They are made in almost every standard size like 220x270 cm(double). Handmade quilts are already distinguished by their artistry.VELVET QUILTS OR RAJAI Velvet quilts are luxurious. The material is lightweight. SILK QUILTS OR RAZAI Such luxurious quilts are perfect gifts for weddings and anniversaries. Over the centuries. so it brings comfortable warmth to the fortunate person whose bed is adorned with a velvet quilt. brown and other dark colours. Nowadays they are made in almost every colour like black. Silk razai or quilt looks appealing because of its shine and new look. 200x250cm (medium). sensuous and ultra soft. it is the warmest quilt due to usage of high quality velvet and finely combed natural cotton which is filled inside. Natural cotton processed in a very special way to make it light. maroon. Used for chilly winters. Finely combed natural cotton is filled inside. 150x220(single). Made in . warm and fluffy is stuffed inside. These are special-occasion delights that will remind the recipients of you for years and years. and a silk quilt just adds to the beauty. velvet has embellished the finery of royals and is still valued for its unrivalled texture.
Cotton Quilts are made of hand block printed cotton voile fabric, filled with finely combed superior quality natural cotton. These are available in bright, contemporary and traditional Rajasthani motif prints to fill cheer into dull winters. These good looking, fluffy, hand-made Indian Rajai or quilts are a Specialty of Jaipur. In these razai tagai is done with hand in many attractive patterns.
Carding the Cotton Fill
Rajasthan encompasses the Aravalli Mountain Range and the Thar (Great Indian) Desert. This makes the climate cold, especially at night. The people of that region traditionally have been nomads. Traders, shepherds and others spent days on the road in caravans. They needed a cover to keep them warm at night without a lot of bulk or weight to carry with them during the day. Over time, local quilt makers developed techniques which created a quilt that was lightweight, compact, warm and durable, all at once The material of choice for a Jaipuri razai is cotton. The cotton fill of a Jaipuri razai is finely carded to remove all the dross. A carder is a paddle covered on one side with fine teeth. The worker places a ball of cotton on one carder and combs through it with another carder. Carding separates the cotton fibers, allowing the worker to draw out all of the dross, or waste material. In the process of
carding, a dense cotton ball becomes light and fluffy. To make a Jaipuri razai, a worker starts with a kilogram (approximately 2.2 pounds) of cotton. After carding approximately 100 grams (or 3.5 ounces) of cotton remain. Makers of these quilts are careful to draw out as much dross, and to separate as many of the cotton fibers, as possible. Light, fluffy cotton fill makes these quilts warm.
Filling the Shell
Once the cotton is completely carded, the artisans go on to make the quilt. The shell of the comforter can be velvet or silk, but the most common fabric is cotton. Often, the cotton will be decorated in the traditional Indian art of block print before the quilt is put together. Layering the cotton fill on the shell is an important step in making these quilts. The cotton has to be distributed evenly throughout the quilt in order to maintain its comfort and warmth.
TAGAI Once the fill is carefully layered on the shell, the quilt is stitched together and quilted. In modern times, the stitching around the sides is usually done by machine in order to increase the durability of the quilt. However, even these days, the quilting on the quilt panels themselves is typically done by a hand-held needle. This stitching on the interior of the quilt surface helps to hold the fill in place and adds to the beauty of the quilt.
compact. Since they are compact. Jaipuri razai are lightweight. And they can fill many needs in your house. And they're gorgeous. and then refine.Versatile and Durable Jaipuri razai’s may be handmade and lightweight. you will have no trouble folding them away in a guest room closet for use when company comes. Of course. They are functional. In fact. the Jaipuri razai. . they would need to be. They are also a cosy choice as a throw for TV time or reading. warm as toast and soft as a cloud. If necessity is the mother of invention. durable and expertly made. And they are a great choice for dorm rooms that have to be unpacked every spring and recreated every fall. they are great as a quilt for your bed. Undoubtedly. they are quite durable. it was the necessity of keeping warm in a rugged climate while on the go that caused artisans to invent. but they are hardly flimsy. considering their origins on caravan routes.
Kadar Bux .
Gulam Rasool .
named Madina. He has a machine for cleaning cotton in his shop itself. toop khane ka rasta. pillows and cushions. Gulam rasools wife teaches the workers in the shop the process of tagai and silai. He specializes in jaipuri razai. . though she doesn’t know the art of quilt at all. He also makes mattresses’ . He has many workers working under him. He also has a sister who is little mentally unstable. She is sweet and also acts as a caretaker of the shop.GULAM RASOOL Gulam rasool a 55 years old businessman and retailer having his own karkhana and shop of razai making in ghangori bazaar .
Santosh Saini .
SANTOSH SAINI Santosh is a 30 years old tagai wali who works at gulam rasool shop. But in season of razai her main work is to do tagai. Santosh used to sit outside gulam rasool’s shop when she was around 10 years and gulam’s wife taught her the work of razai making and tagai. He also shows interest in her work and also knows little about lehariya. straight. She gets Rs. She stays with her son. She likes her work and comes at 12 noon at the shop and work till 10 pm at night. Her elder sister is in shastri nagar. small gaddas which are used as a chauki in shops. gol design. Santosh’s mom used to sell vegetables outside gulam rasool house. She also do silai of pillows and cushions. She do tagai in different designs like in saat khane. . 1800 per month and 6 holidys in a month. Now she do tagai in gaddas . She is married and have a ten year old son named lokesh. Her husband is halwai and does not stay with her. Her son comes at five in the evening after school gets over and sits with her. square and in shape of paan ke paate. She is a strong will powered women who is managing everything at her own without any help from her husband’s side.
He eats food from outside. . tagai of gaddas. 4500 per month as his wages. He do pindai. He do cleaning of cotton by machine and then fills it inside the khol. In holidays and during festivals he go to Hyderabad to meet his family. He is married and have two sons. razai and silai of pillows. He takes gifts and other traditional things from here for his wife and children. he is working since ten years in the field of razai making. bharai.he used to do the same work in Hyderabad. He starts his work in the morning and continues till 10 pm at night. He loves Jaipur and its culture. He saves the money and takes it home whenever he goes Hyderabad. He gets Rs. His wife and son lives with his family in Hyderabad. He takes care of the whole shop.SHEIKH MOHAMMAD ABDUL He is a young man of age 25 years and was born in Hyderabad. He works whole day in gulam rasool’s shop and lives in the shop itself.
She was born in village khare bawari in Jaipur. She do work of pindai and tagai in gulam rasool’s shop. One son is a ricksaw owner.JAITOON She is a sixty years old woman who is married. She is a old women so works little slowly as compared to other workers in the shop . Her husband is a painter and she has two kids. She also have one brother who is working. She have five sisters who are married and settled in Jaipur.
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