VISVESVARAYA

1

TEX

ACKNOWLEDGMENT
We acknowledge

Prof.Dr.S.S.Ramatal,

Principal,

Govt.S.K.S.J.T.I,Bangalore, our thanks and indebted gratitude for guidance at every
stage while bringing out this report. Also we would like to thank our induction buddies for their constant support throughout our training period. Their guidance, support and help have made it possible to finish our training successfully. We would like to thank Mr.MAHADEVEGOWDA, H.R. Manager and

Ms.PAVITHRA of Shahi Exports Pvt.Ltd. for allowing us to do the training at
Unit 4. We would like to specially thank Mr.JAMEEL AHAMED IED, & IED ASSISTANTS, for guiding us to observe all the functions in various departments. We express our heart full thanks to all the STAFF and WORKERS of the

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Bangalore.
Lastly, we would wish to express our sincere thanks to all those who have directly and indirectly helped in bringing out this report successfully.

2

CONTENTS

 Acknowledgment  Introduction  HR department  Merchandizing and Planning  Stores  Fabric  Sampling and CAD  Cutting  Production

3

4 . Kaja button  Finishing and Packing  Testing  Washing  Maintenance INTRODUCTION The garment industry has emerged as a dynamic and booming industry. This trade has got socio-economic importance as it is essentially a labor in extensive industry and has the potential to generate wide spread employment particularly of rural and backward areas. The rapid growth of this industry in the last few years revealed the massive export potential. It is a young and thrust industry having made its presence felt only from last two decades.

It has separate units for woven and knits.. To teach the various technical stages of garment making. Hence massive training programs are required at gross route levels. Ltd. Finally. They are:  LFD ( Ladies Fashion Division)  LSD ( Ladies Standard Division)  MNB ( Men and Boys) Now the clothing has not only remained as a means of cover the body but become Fashion. there is need for trained workers at basic product level. It stands 1st position for profit and stand 4th in overall rating. Ltd has been started at 1992. a Dignity. This training work is a small step to study the “Process Flow in Garment Industry”. 5 . the intention of training is to understand to deal with various processes and practically work. Shahi at present have 21 branches in Bangalore only... Garments Industries are becoming highly competitive in the Global Market & heading towards adopting quality standards norms to improve the productivity. profitability to grow in the market & to satisfy the customer requirements in every aspect. It has its main unit (3) in Faridabad (Delhi) and newly opened unit is in Hyderabad.The entrepreneur are setting up new factories and trying to employ more and more professional to take care of senior positions of their organization. At present as there is huge competition in the garment industry. methodologies that are followed in Garment Industry. granted permission to carry out the training in Unit 7 one of its 16 exports Units in Bangalore. Companies should also gear up with sophisticated machineries and proper infrastructure with pleasant environment to take care of the required quality standards and to meet the stiff competition in the international market. Shahi Exports Pvt. It has divided its units based on the nature of garment production. In this era of transition and Globalization. Shahi Exports Pvt.

Garment flow: Buyer order Spec sheet Manual pattern and digitizing Computer pattern Sample Approved pattern Grading Marker plan Fabric Fabric inspection Laying Cutting Numbering and bundling Production Finishing Packing Dispatching 6 .

R team  Merchandising  Planning  Executive  Production  Fabric and cutting/ fusing  Sampling and CAD  IED  Quality  Maintenance  Finishing  Stores Administration Senior H R Accounts 7 .Organization Hierarchy: General Manager Factory manager H.

HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT H. To ensure effectiveness of training for the employees. It is essentially concerned in the process of estimating and projecting the supply and demand for different categories of personal in the organization for years to come. 4. PLANNING is the planning of forecasting. It incorporates all Human being at all stages in the organization. 2. 3. 8 . Crèche for the children of workers is been well maintained. To ensure safety requirements. Recruiting qualified personnel. 8. The recruitment of workers is done according to the need. To ensure safety welfare aspects.R. Human Resource Planning or Man Power Planning is synonymous. 6. infrastructure. Identification of training needs in co-ordination with functional heads. STAFF : HR manager – 1 Senior executive HR – 3 HR executives – 7 PERSONNAL AND ADMINISTRATION: RESPONSIBILITIES: 1. To appraise the top management about work environment. 5. 7. Dispensaries are been in the company to treat the sick workers. as and when the need arises from departments (as directed by management). developing and controlling by which a firm ensures that it has the right number of people and right kind of people at the right places at the right time doing work for which they are economically most usefully.

recurring deposit accounts. etc relating to employees. Renewal of factory licenses safety devices such as fire extinguishers. Signing of Appointment letters. monthly returns. bonus returns. 2. 9 . Well maintained canteen is been run. 4. confirmation letters. ESI Labor department. AUTHORITY: 1.9. 3. Representing CDEL with external bodies such as Govt. LIC and inspector of factories. such as EPF. Signing of monthly statement. Departments. and vehicle loans. 6. PF. Finalizing staff welfare-privileges such as loan. 5. Signing of ESI. Notices.

in the past fashion merchandising was usually associated only with woman’s apparel and accessories. dispatch • Banks and Currency Shipping Clearing Agent • Management 10 . The main activities of retailing are to buy and sell goods simply put the detail activities performed by a retail executive a buyer who plans and sells.MERCHANDISING INTRODUCTION: Merchandising is the term used to signify articles for sale. fabrics. quality control • Inventory production units and job workers • Shipment and logistics • Letter of credit processing. production. preparing statistical forecast based upon incoming sales data analyzing spreadsheets that are used to follow the status of fabric and production orders and evaluating financial statements. accessories and trims • Production planning and control • Load planning. Merchandisers must be capable of calculating the cost of producing each garment. Merchandising includes the following process: • Prospecting • Sampling • Order processing • Buyers styles. quota. Fashion merchandising includes all the planning and activities necessary to supply the fashion wants and needs of retail Customers. determining selling prices.

Some of the buyers will de explained neatly regarding garment manufacturing. the buyer will give an order to the manufacturer. the manufacturer thinks best quality with affordable price. After getting the buyer. He should not start the production until the buyer gives an order. Here the buyer thinks the right quality with low price. The buyer/buying agent should approve every thing in sample. After samples approval from the buyer/buying agent. After procuring the buyer.• Order Status • Costing • Profit and Loss • Delivery Schedule • Capacity Utilization • Buyers Status • Quality and Rejects • Finance and Personnel NEGOTIATION: The Negotiation is like updating of data between buyer and manufacturer. Supplier must take care that all the samples approved by the buyer should be kept in written format signed by the buyer. at the same time shipment date also mentioned. the supplier should commit with him. 11 . First the supplier will prepare the samples according to his PROTO SAMPLES. the manufacturer will give the sample according to the buyer specifications and then he will quote the price for the product. if they satisfied with their standards then he should proceeds further otherwise he can drop the order. The manufacturer should go through the buyer’s manual.

how the lab reports to be sent. Then the productions will starts. quality checking parameters. Merchandising: ↓  Planning  H R team  Purchase  Accounts  Stores  Documentation  Sampling  Production PLANNING: Production planning and control is the first and most important process which involves scheduling and smooth processing of the departments that includes all processes used in production of the garment till shipment. There are 2 types of planning: • • Central planning Unit planning 12 . Example: Type of stitches should be in the garment. type of packing materials be used .Buyer manual consist of from beginning to the end how to communicate with them (buyer) from sampling to delivery. how packing of all the samples should be sent. where should be lab Testing should be done . etc. sizes of the packing cartoons. After getting approval from the buyer the supplier will go ahead for bulk production. each and every thing will be written.

Routing 3). Dispatching 5). It gives estimation of appropriate time consumption of each and every process till the shipment. Schedule 4). Planning 2). 1). Follow up 6). • ROUTING: Routing is the planning activity which is undertaken to determine the best route for manufacturing a certain product. OBJECTIVES: • • Planning helps in smooth functioning of all processes of company. Inspection • PLANNING: Planning is the first step to be taken for looking ahead or anticipating difficulties and taking next steps. It is an essential pre-requisite to production control. 13 . The production department has to control every major stage of producing the garments up to this entry into the ware house.A central department is needed to collect & analyze the control information from each production unit in order to report on individual and overall achievements. ACTIVITIES: The production planning & control involves the following steps. Unit planning is concerned with planning in each and every department in a unit.

Inspectors must inspect the material process. This is maintained through out of the product of the manufacturing of the manufacturing process. The follow up function of the production planning & control ensures that production proceeds along expected lines. but also to see that goods are of good quality. which involves the assignment of starting and completion times for the various operations to be performed. • FOLLOW UP OR EXPEDITING: Once production has been set in motion it is necessary to check that it is proceeding according to the plan. of machines required Operator samp 14 . • DISPATCHING: The dispatching function involves the actual granting of permission to proceed according to plans already laid down. SLAB FOR PLANNING: 0-1500 1500-3000 3000-5000 5000-8000 8000-12000 12000-30000 30000 & above 30% 40% 45% 50% 55% 60% 65% FORMULA: Productivity @ 100% = 480min * no. some finished product. • INSPECTION: Production control is not only relating to the goods produced on time. fixtures used either at the work station or testing room.• SCHEDULING: The next phase of production planning and control is scheduling.

Fabric record details: • • • • • • • • • • • • Buyer: Style: Item: Code & color: Order quantity %: TOQ: Conquered: Required in mts: Balance: Fabric issued: Sample: O/unit: 15 .

Stores keep an account of all the materials that comes in or goes out of the unit. Worker details: Store in charge: Krishna Workers: 4 Flow: Buyer spec ↓ Merchandiser ↓ Dispatching Trims & Accessories ↓ Stores ↓ Inspection ↓ As per the folder for 1 garment is calculated ↓ 16 . Stores department will make sure that all the items. 5% of extra quantity will be issued to the stores.STORES DEPARTMENT ACCESSORY STORES: The main objective of Stores is to supply the trims or accessories & other necessary items and equipments needed for the productivity of the garment for each & every section in the unit. accessories are present in right quantity with right quality. Stores have to keep watch on every department in the unit to access the consumption of the material.

2. Issues the material and trimmings according to calculated amount & if required in rounded-up figures. Stock transfer note: • • • Item code Item name Issued #: Issued date: To Item UOM (Unit Quantity No of Location Lot bales / bags number description of measurement) Store issue slip: Style & Color Description Reference Quantity Remarks FABRIC STORES: The fabric stores are storage of fabrics and fusible fabrics. Then as soon as the fabric comes to the stores it goes to 17 .Calculated for bulk production ↓ Approval by merchandiser ↓ Issued to the department Stores Keeping: The store keeping staff is basically responsible for the receiving. storage and issuing of materials. The procedure followed here is same as accessory stores. The chief storekeeper is expected to: 1. Receive goods inwards and check them according to procedures specified by the purchasing department.

Fabric section: Fabric audit: The main object of fabric section is to inspect. It is then dispatched to the cutting department.inspection and after inspection again it is stored in separate rack. defect checking & shade segregation. Process flow: Inspection ↓ Checking ↓ Shading ↓ Report ↓ Storage ↓ Distribution Employees detail: Fabric in charge – 1 (Annadanesh) Quality checker – 1 18 . 1 bale consists of 5 to 6 taka. Fabric to the fabric section is received in the form of bale or rolls. Fabric storage capacity is up to 1lakh meters either in bale or roll forms.

Machines used: Checking machine: RAMSONS CHFCK 6605 Shade matching machine: PARAMOUNT Spectra vision An ISO 9001 Route 19 .Workers – 4 Data operator – 1 Total – 7 Table Dimension: Length – 190 inch Breadth – 60 inch Height – 38 inch Fabric storage capacity: up to 1lakh meter Storage height: 5.5ft or 66inch Productivity: On table up to 5000mts & on machine up to 1000 to 1500mts.

Layout plan: Buyers:  AEO (American Eagle Outfitters)  OLD NAVY  H&M (Hennits & Movits)  HOLISTER 20 .

JEANS (Calvin & Kelive Jeans) Weaving defect: • • • • • • • • • • • Burl mark Drop pick End out Wrong splicing Slub Foreign material Stop mark Warp & weft float Bowing Mixed yarns Iron stains & water mark • • • • • • • • • • • Thin place Floats Dobby defect Pattern defects Double ends/ fillings Holes Weft bars Oil & soil stains Burl mark Streak Miss pick Dyeing / Finishing / Printing / Embroidery defects: • • • • • • • Center to selvedge & selvedge to selvedge color variation Roll to roll variation Stains Dark print Missing embroidery Miss prints Starting marks 21 .K. TARGET  WALMART  PVH  KOHILS  C.

• • • Patches Un even print Wrong design pattern FABRIC INSPECTION The first step to be carried out when received from the supplier is to inspect the fabric. Points per sq yard = (Total points * 3600) / (Inspected yard *Cut table fabric width inch) 22 . Point Calculation: Imperial: In this textile material is evaluated on a square yard. In the fabric inspection department four point system is been used for bales. PRINCIPLE: The main principle of 4 point system is that the penalty points given to the max defect is 4. 4 point system: Length of defects Up to 3inch 3 – 6inch 6 – 9inch > 9inch Any holes Points 1 2 3 4 4 Indication Yellow Green Navy blue Red Red For 100mts more than 40 points defect fabric is rejected. rolls & Piece Goods Inspection.

Fabric width 1½’’ to 2’’ tolerance of specified width is accepted. Then the Takas or Rolls are inspected in full width on the table or machine under the good light for defects analyses. they place 5% extra order to the supplier to meet the requirement. in which total 100 meters of fabric is inspected and.Metric: In this textile material is evaluated on a square meter. if the points allotted for 100 meters are Less than (<) 40 points is Accepted More than (>) 40 points is Rejected • • • • Check the fabric length & width & compare against the length declared by the supplier. From the supplier the fabric is received in the form of Takas or Rolls. Every fabric has to be inspected 100% incase 15% with the consent of concerned merchandiser approvals. but it can be 45 or 65 meters also. For every lot / every fabric order keep 1mts of fabric for lab testing & for quality standard reference. Fabric received in the form of Takas may be of length usually 100 meters. According to the order placed. They are following Four Point System. Copies of the report are presented to concerned merchandiser & department. 23 . Points / 100m sq = (Total points *10000)/ (Inspected meter *Cut table fabric width cm) Acceptable level computation formula: = (total points*3300) / (width in inch* length Procedure: • • • • • • • As soon as the fabric received. Inspection reports are produced. the fabric inspection department inspects the fabric.

Colour matching is done by using. After inspection fabric is packed in bundle form as per the shades and width. PARAMOUNT colour matching cabinet. and then issued to the cutting department. They ensure that same shade is been loaded to cutting. Shade bands are send to concerned merchandiser. Then they are sort for the shades and the Takas or rolls are sorted according to the shade variation.Grading of fabric depending on points: Points Up to 44 44 to 60 Above Grading Standard fabric Sub standard fabric Defect fabric Colour Green Yellow Red (reject) Shade segregation: • • • • • • • 100% shade segregation is done. sourcing & cutting department for approval. Shade band of 10 * 10 swatch is prepared. 1/4th meters strip is cut across the width of each roll or takas. Color matching testing: Buyer H&M TARGET AEO A&F OLD NAVY HOLLISTER KOHILS GYMBOREE PACSUN Primary TL 83 UL 30 CWF INCA CWF CWF U 30 INCA CWF Secondary D 65 D 65 INCA D 65 INCA D 65 D 65 D 65 D 65 24 .

(+_) 2 threads accepted. Shrinkage test is carried out by marking 50 * 50cm.5 inch level acceptable 2 inch level acceptable Checks & printed fabric cut table width is measured & embroidery fabric embroidery to embroidery width is measured. For shrinkage & washing 1meter width is cut. Check the reed & pick. Fabric & codes: Code A B C D E F G H Fabric Waffle Waffle Chambray Denim Seer sucker Poplin Velvet Oxford canvas Code N O P Q R S T U Fabric 100% polyester Blended Twill Y/D Flax / Lenin Crepe Lycra Poly / nylon GRGT 25 . Center to selvedge colour variation is not accepted Check the bowing level Up to 44inch 45 to 60 inch 60 to 72inch 1 inch level acceptable 1.TOMMY SEARS CWF UL30 D 65 D 65 Acceptable level: • • • • • • 30pt/100sq yard for mill made & imported fabric 40 pt/100sq yard for power loom fabric Check the width & length 3 times separately & mention their average.

marker. sticker. Defective report 7. label. CSCV /MTR to MTR 5. hanger. display board. scissors. Shrinkage report 4. measuring tape. checking machine. Face side approval 2. Reports: Buyer label: • • • • • • • Fab code: Color: Bale no: Roll no: Meter: Width: Shade: Fabric reports: 1. Shade band approval 3. trolley. Checking report 6. table. computer. shade matching machine. Country card 26 .I J K L M Cheeks Y/D Corduroy Twill with print Herring bone Knitted V W X Y Z Damask Woolen Voile Rayon Nylon Accessories & trims used: Fabric. stand. calculator.

Continuity card 9. Shrinkage report: • • • • • • Fabric: Taka /roll no: MTR. Batch cutting label 10. L%: W%: Average: 27 .8. Piece goods quality inspection report: • • • • • • • • • • Sl n o Supplier name: Fabric code / color: Po no: Style: Group of fabric: Acceptable points: Inspection date: Meter age received: Meter age accepted: Total Accept: Reject: Roll MTS / no in bale sticker Actual Actual Classification Total MTS width cm min & max of 1234 % shade Accept Remark points points points / reject 2. Recutting % 1.

Fabric checking report: • • • • • • • • • • • Supplier: Fab code: Fab color: Style #: Buyer : Item #: Order quantity: Fabric required: Recd fab: Balance fab req: Inspection fab: Cut table width wise detail: Width MTS Po no Total Shade wise detail: Shade MTS Pass MTS Reject Po wise quantity: Defects: Inspection mts Checking % Total points Average % points 28 .• • • • • Style no: Quantity: Buyer name: Color: Date: 3.

Code I53AY I53AY XC44F XC44F FC87P FC88P FC89P PQ57 X431 HN933 XC86P XC85P PP081 Color Pink white Blue white Red cream Blue cream Blue flower bunch Blue flower Blue print Thunder grey White White Pink butter Blue bocquet Brown Style R2120 R2120 5830 5830 RU 60 RU 60 RU 60 T 37 T 37 2623 TW 40 TW 40 528201 Buyer Benetton stripe Benetton stripe AEO embroidery AEO embroidery Benetton printed Benetton printed Benetton printed CK Jeans check CK Jeans plain AEO stripe Benetton printed Benetton Old navy checks 29 .In process on 7 – 8 – 2007 Thursday.

2. the sample is the representative of the whole bulk. SAMPLE PRODUCTION The main objectives of sampling department are: 1. THE MAIN FUNCTIONS OF SAMPLING: 1. 3. This initiates the actual production. defining quality terms of new styles to production department. sales men . Sampling process is responsible to monitor quality at minimum cost.SAMPLING Sampling is the Research and Development section of the garment industry. The samples are produced according to the spec sheet in single size and sent for buyer approval. counter.Buyers ask for TOP samples (Term production) The other functions: 30 . and Buyer’s Meeting samples .S). PATTERN MAKING 2. CAD MARKING 3. 4. Sending samples for “Merchandise Review Samples “ (M.R. Checking and analyzing new styles. Getting approvals from buyers. The samples garment is prepared in the sampling department with great care because these samples represent the capability of the company and in order to procure orders to the company. In this department the replicas of the bulk is produced. shipment. pre-production . Getting pre-production approvals. This is done very cautiously checking every minute thing getting the sample to perfection as per the buyer’s requirements in the spec sheet.

scissors and trimmed by notch cutters. Then the separated parts are placed on the digitizer’s board to digitize the parts into the computer. The tracing sheet length and width are equal to the lay. No other corrections can be done. The lay marking is done such the waste efficiency percentage is less. Based on the sampled garment the costing is been carried out. Pattern making is done only for single size. The cad marking is very useful in grading and optimum usage of the fabric. The software used is OPTI TEX. Then it is sent to the manual cutting. The different parts are separated and colored according to the sizes. There are two types of OPTI TEX : • • PDS – pattern . The sampling department also access for accessories and thread consumption for that particular garment. The fabric consumption efficiency in that lay is optimum. Shade markers are used for solids. CAD MARKING: The cad marking is done after digitizing. The marking is done onto the tracing sheets by plotters. Then the different parts of the design are cut using cutters.shrinkage and whatever changes required can be done.correction . MARK –only marking is done. The main function of cad is grading of the basic size according to the required sizes.• • • The sampling department also calculates the consumption of fabric required to produce the garment.grading . 31 . PATTERN MAKING: The designs according to the tech pack given by buyers including shrinkage are drawn on the tracing sheet then it is placed on the card board. The buffers are used in the stripes and check fabrics.

Hierarchy of workers: Merchandising manager Sampling in charge Co-ordinates QC Tailors In charge – Ramanathan Total workers – 43 Tailors -25 Pattern masters -2 QC -3 Pattern markers -2 CAD -2 operators 1 helper K/B -2 Supervisors -2 Cutters -2 Ironing -2 Supervisors Ironers K/B Helpers Pattern masters 32 .The samples are produced according to the patterns according to the procedures given below.

PROCESS SEQUENCE: BUYER SPECIFICATION SHEET MERCHANDISER SAMPLING Flow of the sample: Developing stage of style ↓ Proto sample ↓ Fit approval ↓ Pre production sample ↓ Sealer sample ↓ 33 .

Size set ↓ Pilot run ↓ Garment package test (GPT) ↓ Top sample IN GPT: • • • • Show room sample (SMS) Fashion show room sample (FSS) Add sample (AD) Reference sample TYPES OF SAMPLES: DEVELOPING STAGE OF STYLE: It is the own developing of size with respect to the sample given by the buyer. 5. 4. This sample is prepared for just to get the garment out look and size. FIT APPROVAL: 1. This sample is sent to buyer agent if not in some cased to buyer itself. the grain cutting direction is mentioned as per buyer 34 . 2. PROTO SAMPLE: 1. This is the first sample being prepared contain only substitute fabric. Only in one size is been prepared and sent. The pattern prepared for proto sample does not contain seam allowances. 2. 3. In this sample stitch construction is mentioned.

PILOT RUN SAMPLE: 1. 2. 2. 3. In this type sample of 4-6 pieces in each size sent to buyer. 3. Based on this sample the buyer sends comments regarding the size fit if any. Here about 30-50 pieces is been prepared. One sample is been sent in all sizes. 4. In certain cases the fabric may be of substitute fabric.3. 3. 2. The sample is been sent with full accessories and details. RED SEAL SAMPLE: 1. In all sizes one sample is sent to the buyer to check the fit. This sample is not been prepared in reference to all buyers. The buyer will have certain buying houses or showrooms where the samples are sent. the stitching instructions of the different parts of garment 5. The pattern prepared for salesmen sample. the accurate dimensions of the garment is specified SALES MEN SAMPLE: 1. 4. will contain seam allowances as lay is been made for cutting above thirty pieces. In each size and in each color one garment is been produced. This sample is been prepared in order to check perfect fit to the garment. 35 . 2. Only certain buyers do ask for Red Seal Samples. Fabric being original with all accessories. SIZE SET SAMPLES: 1. if the samples are fast moving then the order been placed. the procurement of trims 4.

One or two samples being sent to the buyer to give the knowledge of the garment how is being stitched in the production line. COUNTER SAMPLE: 1. 2. Only certain buyers do ask for TOP samples.C. In this sample all accessories and fabric being original. Here one or two samples to be sent to the buyer to give knowledge of what is being sent to the buyer through shipment. This is the sample is been prepared in the production line during production hours.3. SHIPMENT SAMPLE: 1. the latter checked and then sends it to the buyer. In certain cases the buyer’s agent will come and inspects the sample and gives comment. in the production selects one sample and sends it to the Merchandiser. PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES: 1. 2. which is for our reference. 3. The Q. 2. For all samples there should be preparation of one or two samples. This trail for production. TOP SAMPLES: 1. 4. 36 . Certain buyers do ask for this type of samples though this sample is not sent usually.

salesmen. Size set. That is for Proto. Pilot run.strength .crocking of the sample is testing is done REPORTS: Sample Indent: • • • • • • Buyer: Purpose: Style: Size: Description: Quantity:  Pattern information:  Cutting information:  Interlining type & placement:  Stitching information:  Washing information:  Packing information / Accessories:  Any special information:  Fabric details:  Thread details: 1) Bill of materials:  Stage: Development 37 .2. Pre-production samples and any other samples being sent to buyer there should be a preparation of counter samples for our reference. GARMENT PACKAGE TEST: 1. The checking of the trims of sample at final step takes place according to the buyer spec sheet 2. color fastness .

• • • • • Buyer: Class: Type: Description: Vendor: Materials Item description code Use content Construction finish Weight Yield 2) Folder summary:  Buyer:  Main label:  Additional label:  Hang tag:  Logo:  Final fit approval: 3) How to measure (Grade specification work sheet) 4) Fit image form: 5) Required specification:  Buyer:  Company:  Product type: 38 .

 Style:  Fabric:  Description:  Wash:  Consumption:  Delivery date:  Country:  Shipment mode:  Trims: 39 . Sample size:  Size class:  Approval status:  Approval note:  Selected range: POM Description Tol (-) Tol (+) Basic size 6) Sample comments:  Stage: Production • • • • Fit evaluation work sheet: Grade specification: Measurement sheet: Production sheet:  Buyer:  Buyer P.O.

notch cutter. calculator. stapler. Item number:  Body fabric color:  Sizes:  Comments: 7) Sewing program list: • • • • Program number: Stitch shape: Number of threads: Standard sewing size: 8) Checking: Fabric defects Shade variation Holes/ stains/ cuts Fused surface appearance Biased cut components Button hole stitching quality Button attachment quality Bar tuck Trims attachment Embroidery / printing Workmanship in samples Direction of biased components Threads used in samples Trims used in samples All required labels Label placements/attachments Iron standard/ quality Alteration involved Specs in samples Overall quality of sample Presentation of sample Sample check result Accessories & Trims: Scissor. marker. scale. 40 . buttons. fabric. measuring tape. thread. pattern sheet. labels. gum tape. iron box.

S. Hand cutting machines Blue streak NY U. economically and in sufficient volume according to the lay record and the parts are numbered according to the sizes to keep the sewing room supplied with work. Machines used: 1. Production is up to 7000 per day.In process: 10/08/2007 Code HNG33 XC447 XC447 I53AY I53AY PQ57 Color White Red cream Blue cream Pink white Blue white Friday Style 2623 5830 5830 R2120 R2120 T37 Buyer AEO AEO AEO Benetton Benetton C K Jeans Thunder grey CUTTING DEPARTMENT Cutting is the very first process in garment manufacturing. The cutting department receives the fabric from the fabric department after inspection. Fusing machine HASHIMA 1000 ED Model EC – 3 Eastman machine company 41 .A 2. End cutting machine Eastman end cutter 3. The main objective of cutting section is cutting of garment parts accurately.

4. Numbering machine BLITZ numbering machine Italy STV 492 Employees: Cutting in charge – Murali QC in charge – 1 Cutter – 7 Cutting helper – 1 Cutting issuer – 1 Fab assistant – 1 Feeding helper – 1 Top sticker – 2 Fusing helper – 15 Marker – 1 Production writer – 1 Laying – 10 Re layers – 9 QC / checkers – 6 Re cutters – 2 Re layers – 9 Re lay helpers – 1 Sorters – 12 Sorting helpers – 1 Supervisors – 1 Fabric issuers – 1 Fabric QC – 1 Fabric checkers – 4 TLR – 3 QC supplier – 1 Helper – 15 TOTAL = 99 Spreading: 42 . Band Messer machine Wastema Germany 6. Fussing feel strength checking machine 5. Cloth drill hole machine Nagai Shima Japan 7.

at the end of the lay the workers cut the fabric with scissors and end cutter. During spreading they take care of shades in the lays of fabric. Two types of spreading: • • Manual spreading Auto spreading MANUAL SPREADING: In cutting department fabric lays are laid manually as per the marker length. but in case of plain fabric they cut the fabric as it is. In certain cases 2 end bits are joined together to make the required length. To get perfection during lay cutting in case of checks and stripes fabric the lay cutters do follow the design and then cut it off. This is possible if shades of both the end bits are matched. they do check the width and length of the fabric and give report.The main objective of spreading is to spread the fabric lay accurately as per the length of the maker with minimum waste at end of a lay. They maintain a report of how many layers are been lay and the laying being done by whom. There are 3 types of laying: • • • Folded Open width Pinning lay CUTTING: 43 . They are getting more end bits during spreading but they use these end bits to cut garment parts. AUTO SPREADING: The automatic spreading is done by machines which hold the fabric rolls in width wise and fabric is spread along length wise. Only one operator is required.

Manual cutting 2. Computer pneumatic cutting Manual cutting: • • Band knife cutting Straighter cutting The procedure followed in manual cutting: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • The fabric is inspected for shade The fabric consumption ratio is calculated The lay record is prepared The lay is spread according to the lay record The lay marker is spread over it The size labels are placed on the marked parts.Cutting is very important and necessary process without which the garment can’t be stitched. The straighter cutting is been carried out Then it is sent to band knife cutting for accuracy in shape The numbering of parts is done based on sizes & lay The stripes and check fabrics are sent for relaying where the proper alignment of stripes & checks of different parts for matching. Pinning is done for pockets and darts for proper alignment Edge cutting is done for stripe & check fabrics The interlinings are also cut After cutting the shade checking is done Then it goes to auditing Re cutting is done 44 . Cutting should be done according to the marker & is carried out by cutting master and cutting in charge. Here the cutting is done in two stages : 1.

Flow: Order ↓ Consumption work ↓ Approval Fabric check ↓ Approved shade ↓ Cutting plan ↓ Laying ↓ CAD marker ↓ Cutting ↓ Numbering ↓ Shade checking 45 .Main bundle: Main bundle consist of small bundles (20 pieces)of each part required to make one complete garment.

middle ply & bottom ply comes exactly to the hard pattern. Notches: check weather the locations of the notches had been correct by putting the hard pattern over the top ply. Ragged cutting: check for ragged cutting & if found the part has to be replaced or the defect has to be rectified. check for miss cut or failure of the cutter o split the line. Any deviation found in the above procedure should be brought to the notice of the concerned person & ensure rectification. Check matching: check if the check matching & the mirror image are been Checking method for sorting: • • • • • • Check the top sticker & all the components are of same cut no.↓ Bundling (20) ↓ Check ↓ Batch distribution ↓ Recutting (if required) Procedure for quality inspection: • • • • • • Pattern checking: check if top ply. Check shade variation of all the components. 46 . Check the no parts ok. Check notches of all the components. Check both the opposites of all the components. Miss cut: balanced. Check first & last no of all the components is same.

Ensure by checking the first no & last no of all the components. flap.5 2.Shade quality control: • • • • • After the numbering of all the components in a garment. front patty. Fusing: This been carried out after numbering. Fusing fabrics have a gummy layer which helps in sticking to the fabric when subjected under required temperature & pressure. spread all the components neatly on the table. Interlinings are the one which does not have gummy layer. the no given to the components is same. pocket. flap. Parts for fusing or interlinings: • • Shirts: collar. cuff. If the same lay is cut in different lots of fabric consider each as separate lays while checking & perform the above procedure separately. Pants: waist band. neck band. This is been done to get the roughness of the required parts of the fabric which helps in smooth process of sewing. These are also used to the required parts instead of fusing fabrics. pocket. it may be of woven & non woven. If any shade variation is observed then check components of 1 no b/w the components & one above for confirmation. Different fusing fabrics: Code FX 1008 FX1008 CH4013 NX100 FX 12 DP Color Black White White White Charcoal Temperature (deg c) 132 132 132 132 132 Pressure (kg) 2. Check top sticker & all the components are of same cut no.5 3 3 3 Time (sec) 12 12 12 12 12 47 .

temperature and pressure. REPORTS: Lay record: 48 . This is checked for compatible. Quality of fusing is tested by actual fusing by taking 12”*12” fabric and 9*9” fusing fabric at recommended time. Discoloration of fabric due to fusing.5 12 12 Process: • • Fusing is done by machine. shrinkage and bond strength. Fusing Defects: • • • Delamination and bubbling due to incorrect fusing. Testing and fusible interlinings: • • Purpose is to give form and shape and to improve aesthetic of the garment. Fusing sandwich temperature to be checked by BI hourly using a thermo stripe.CH 3012 NX 100 White Optic white 130 132 3 2. Dwell time to be checked once a week using stop watch. Fusing defects are avoided using better combination of temperature and pressure. Strike through and strike back caused by incompatible interlining and shell fabric or improper fusing cycle. Pressure checking is to be done once a month using a fast colored poplin fabric & woven microdot fusible interlining.  Place thermo label sandwich b/w a strip of the fabric & the fusible  Pass this to fusing machine  Get the proper temp (at which the thermo label become black)  Attach temp to this form after testing • • • Peel strength to be checked once a day using adhesion tester (standard 450gm or 160oz).

of Total Total pcs pieces/size mts Sample report:  Order no.: 49 . JO/ style#:  Cut #:  Lay length and width:  Start and end time:  Bale # : thann mts: no. of plies:  Fabric & color:  Sizes:  Shade:  No of plies/ ways or size:  Meters required for the day:  Cut or production date: Lay mark sticker:  Style #  Cut #  Size:  Part:  Shrinkage: Consumption details:  Style #:  Date:  Buyer:  Cut table width:  Shrinkage:  Fabric: Size/ratio Ways Length Avg/GMT Efficiency% No.

 Supplier:  Model description:  Sent by:  Date:  Measurement list: Test Size Color Sample Test result Previous test result samples  Comment: on

Fusing lay record:
 PO #:  Style #:  Cut #:  Size ratio:  Lay length:  Fabric width & marker width:  Shrinkage:  Fabric code & color:  Fabric swatch:  Embroidery parts:  Meterage used of cutting:  Fabric issued for spread:

Fusing production report:
Date Members Target

50

Parts fused per garment:
PO # Style # Cut # Pcs # Cut quantity Total Parts to be fused

Numbering: Shading quality inspection report:
 PO #:  Style #:  Cut #:  Size:  Color:  Fabric:  Lot quantity:

Bundle card:
 PO #  Style #:  Cut #:  Size:  Part:  Fabric:  Bundle #:  Quantity:  Shrinkage:

Counting: front and back pieces are counted. Delivery Chelan:
 D.C. no.:  Unit:

51

 Batch:  Date:  P.O. no.:  Style:  Color: Cut no. Bundle no. Quantity Size Start bundle End bundle

In process: 08/08/2007 Wednesday
Code XC86P XC85P PQ57 IV982 XC44F IPN92 PP091 IPN90 FB720 XC44F Color Pink butter Blue bouquet Thunder grey Natural Blue cream Brown dark Contrast brown Blue dark White embroidery Blue cream Style TW40 TW40 T37 528201 5830 7600 528201 7600 F2517 5830 Buyer Benetton Benetton C K Jean Old navy AEO H&M Old navy H&M AEO AEO

Fusing in process: 08/08/2007 Wednesday
Style # Color Fusing fabric Temperature deg cel Pressure Kg Dwell time (sec) Parts to be fused

52

NB. NB Collar. FP Followed: Specification Code: Color: Style: Buyer: Fabric PP091 Brown checks 528201 Benetton Contrast fabric IV982 Natural 528201 Benetton Fusing fabric NX100 Optic white - Parts:  Back:1  Right sleeve: 1  Left sleeve: 1  Cuff:2  Front yoke:2  Pocket:2  Pocket flap:2  Back yoke:1  Collar:2  Neck band:2 Flap:2 Corduroy: Neck band:1 Cuff:2 Contrast: Front contrast:2 Back contrast:1 Main bundle: In this style main bundle has 480 pieces. .code 528201 7600 Brown checks Blue dark NX100 White CM4013 white 132 3 12 132 3 12 Collar.flap. 53 . cuff. FP.flap.

SEWING DEPARTMENT
In-Process Sewing
Sewing department receives fabric bundles of different pieces or parts of garment & these bundles are issued to the batch to perform a sewing operation. Here the sewing department consist of six batches among these four are line batches and other two batches are assembled. Each line batch consists of 40-45 machines and assembly batch consists of 60-65 machines, this will vary deepening upon the style of the garment.

Batch Setting:
Once the sample gets approved from the buyer, batch setting is done for a particular style of the garment. Batch setting is very critical process if any thing goes wrong in settings then it directly affects the production and as well as the quality of the

54

garment. Batch setting is done by the floor in-charge with Production Manager’s guidelines. Batch setting depends on the style of the garment. And the number of machines set in the batch for each operation depends on the production required per hour & per day. Batch setting follows zig- zag flow for easy and convenient flow of materials. Once the batch is set, the actual garment manufacture will begin & the target is set for each and every operation, which in turn gives the estimated production. Hourly production target and daily production target is fixed by the Production Manager by his experience knowledge. The Target setting depends on: • • • Shipment Date Style Number of workers & no. of machines

Workers Efficiency
After the sewing is completed the garment moves to the trimming section, then to checking department, then to final checking and dispatch to finishing department. In production, for each line they’re being one Supervisor who controls the total line and his main aim is to get the required production with in time. There will be 2 feeding helpers whose responsibilities are to feed the materials in to the batch from the cutting department and to maintain the hourly production & daily production reports. There will be one Q.C. & he checks out for the mistakes/defects. Quality norms conformity: 1. Incorrect shape 2. Open seam 3. Puckering 4. Pleating 5. Needle holes 6. Twisted uneven width 7. Shading within 14. End cut thread 15. Oil stains 16. Width uneven 17. Joint stitch 18. Improper point 19. Raw edge 20. Skip stitch 55

garment 8. Hi- low panel, pocket 9. Looseness 10. Broken stitches 11. Label open 12. Label reverse 13. Label centre out

21. Down stitch 22. Line out 23. Roping 24. Damage 25. Uneven stitch/inch 26. Mirror balancing

LAYOUT PLAN

ENTRANCE

EX IT

56
EXIT

TOIL ET I E D I E D CHECKI NG 107ft MODULAR TEAM 1 2 ft H R RACK COUNTING TABLE 17FT D A T A CHECKI NG 107ft BATCH 9 1 2 ft 1 0 107ft AQL AQL RACK 107ft 23ft 9 f t CHECKI NG BATCH 10 1 2 ft CHECKI NG EXIT BATCH 11 1 2 ft FLOW CHART SEWING SECTION Loading of cutting parts Distribution of parts Setting of workstations 57 .

Stitching of parts Inline checking Assembling of parts Trimming End of line checking AQL Kaja Sending to washing/finishing Operations involved in making of parts:  Collar: • • • • • • Collar top run stitch Collar edge cut Collar edge turning Collar top edge (collar kinari) Collar top stitch Neck band iron 58 .

 Cuff: • • • • • Cuff hem (cuff door) Cuff marking (width. and iron Ready collar edge cut and middle marking. turn. 59 . height) Cuff run stitch Cuff trim turn Cuff iron (cuff ready)  Back: • • • • • • • • • •  Sleeve Back dart making Back yoke inside piece gathering Back yoke inside piece attaching Back top yoke ironing Back top yoke centre tacking Back yoke top stitch Fusing for velvet tape attachment (iron) Velvet tape attachment marking Side tacking for velvet tape attachment and finishing Main label attachment.• • • • Collar top and neck band edge cut Collar pick ready (collar and neck band attachment) Ready collar trim. length.

Front marking (line balancing) Front trimming (extra margin line) Front panel attach Front panel over lock Front panel top stitch Front panel edge cut Front yoke inside piece attach Front yoke top piece attach Front placket edge cut Front placket finishing (right and left) Pocket hemm surging and pock hemm Pocket iron Pocket extra margin trim and setting Pocket attach Pocket pointing Flap marking with setting (line balancing) Flap run stitch (ready) Flap edge cut. turn Flap edge stitch (kinari) Flap top stitch (pointed) 60 .• • • • • • •  Front: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Sleeve open Sleeve placket edge cut Sleeve placket finishing (direct finishing) Diamond shape (tacking) Sleeve placket diamond shape making Sleeve pleat marking Sleeve pleat making.

• • • • Flap stay stitch (edge cut) Flap attaching Flap attach top stitch Front panel stay stitch (neck) Checking:  Check station-1 ( Parts name: cuff. collar.2 (Parts name: sleeve and back) • • • • • • • • Sleeve placket length up and down N/A Sleeve placket diamond shape off and length up and down N/A Sleeve placket diamond reverse tracking N/A Sleeve placket folding line bowing N/A Back velvet label attaching cross and centre out N/A Size label attaching reverse and raw edge N/A Label gap uneven N/A Back yoke attaching shape of and margin uneven N/A 61 . flap) • • • • • • • • • • • Cuff to cuff line balancing S/B* even Cuff door top stitch width uneven N/A* Cuff up and down N/A Cuff edge straight line and point sharp S/B even Collar point up and down N/A Collar top S/B mirror balancing Collar top down stitch and top stitch width uneven N/A Pick shape and pick up and down N/A Neck band with uneven N/A Both side flap mirror S/B balancing Flap D/N* piping and width uneven N/A  Check station.

collar and label size S/B in same number Shoulder top stitch looseness and width uneven N/A Sleeve attaching reverse N/A 62 .3 ( Part name: front) • • • • • • • • • • • • Front yoke D/N puckering and down stitching N/A Front yoke S/B mirror balancing Front panel attaching line S/B matching Front panel D/N reverse and pucker N/A Followed pocket to pocket mirror balancing Pocket door S/B ½” and pocket straight line S/B CF side Followed flap to pocket line matching Flap to pocket gap S/B ¼” both side Pocket attaching hi-low N/A Front placket hi.• • • • Back top stitch D/N down stitch and attaching stitch visible N/A Back yoke point centre out N/A Back dart depth width uneven N/A Back dart S/B zero finishing  Check station.4: (Parts name: collar attaching and back attaching and sleeve attaching) • • • • • • Middle out N/A and label S/B centre Collar finishing down and attaching stitch visible N/A Label gap S/B 5/8” Body.low N/A Front placket top stitch ¼” both side even Pocket placement from placket edge  Check station.

Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) After complete checking of garment at the end line checking point the garments will be sent to AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) for further checking of pieces in random.• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Arm hole top stitching width uneven and roping N/A Front.e. . down and puckering Font placket hi-low and puckering S/B even Pocket to flap line balancing S/B even Pocket hi-low and pocket cross attaching N/A Front and back yoke D/N puckering shape off N/A Wash care label placement S/B 3” above bottom and wash label reverse N/A Front panel D/N reverse and down stitch N/A Back dart up and down N/A All over garment viewing defects N/A. according to this system 8 pieces 63 .  S/B – should be.  End of line checking: Size label to collar check S/B same of size Front shoulder top stitch width S/B even Arm hole top stitch width S/B even Sleeve attaching reverse and sleeve placket reverse N/A it S/B even Cuff finishing straight line S/B even S/B follow sleeve placket up and down and sleeve pleat up and down Side seam D/N loose stitch and puckering N/A it S/B neat Follow bottom hem piping.not acceptable. I.  D/N – double needle. AQL checks the garment according to 1. back and sleeve S/B same number.  N/A .5 systems.

will be randomly picked form the lot of 150 pieces if any defects found more than specified the lot will be rejected and sent for rechecking. Flow in AQL: Issue from batches Counting AQL Fail Pass Batch Kaja Finishing/washing At last Sampling Plan: Lot size or 64 AQL .

5 4.5 2.5 Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept less than 151 151-500 501-1200 1201-3200 3201-10000 10001-35000 35001-15000 15001-500000 500001 & above 8 8 32 50 80 125 200 315 500 0 0 1 2 5 5 7 10 14 5 20 32 50 80 125 200 315 500 0 0 2 3 5 7 10 10 21 13 13 32 50 80 125 200 315 315 1 1 3 5 7 10 14 21 21 8 13 32 50 80 125 200 200 200 1 2 5 7 10 14 14 14 14 Organization flow: Factory manager Q.A. manager [Karthik] [Jude Mannuel] 65 .quantity audited being 1.0 6.

C [Mohan] [Ravi] [Chandrika] Total workers in 1 batch: 35  Tailors= 18  Helpers= 5 + 1 trimmer  Check point= 3 [ 2 inline and 1 end line]  Supervisor= 1  Q.5) threads  Single needle edge cut ( SNLSEC)  Single needle UBT ( uncut thread)  Feeder form ( FOA)  Cut pocket machine ( bone pocket machine)  Collar turn machine  Kansai machine ( front patty chain lock\ pin tuck machine) 66 .C= 1  Electrician=1  Maintenance= 2  IED incharge= 1  Sampling= 1 Types of machines:  SNLS ( single needle lock stitch machine)  DNLS ( double needle lock stitch machine)  Overlock machine ( 3.4.Q.I Floor incharge Q.A.

COLLAR TURNING MACHINE CP-313AX JAPAN Reports: Operator’s bulletin: • Style: 67 .LTD CHINA 5.RM1 ( S/N M/C EC) KAULIN MFG. 3/8”. CHINA 3. BROTHER DB2-B736-3 (S/N M/C) BRTOTHER INDUSTRIES LTD. Bar tuck machine (1/2”.757F-516M2-35 ( OL M/C) JAPAN 7. SIRUBA – L818F.KM797 SUNSTAR MACHINARY CO.5530N (S/N M/C EC) JUKE COROPORATION JAPAN 4. SUNSTAR.LTD JAPAN 2. 3/4”) Machine and their make: 1. JUKI DDL.LTD JAPAN 6. CO. 1/4”. SIRUBA. YAMATO CZ6500-A4DF YAMOTO SEWING MACHINE (NING BO) CO.

: Style: Fresh RE 1 RE 2 RE 3 RE 4 status: • Size: 68 • Aud it . of operators:  No. of helpers:  Pieces per m/c:  Manpower:  Operations: GS D m/c type and class work aids Folder/pr/foot/other Operator calculated No.O.• • Buyer: Parameters:  Last received by:  Date of last revision:  O/P at 65%:  O/P at 85%:  O/P at 100%:  Target / hour:  Total SM’S:  Minutes per day:  No.: P. no. m/c’s of Target per 70% Target per @ 85% Target per hour required hour @ hour AQL:  Batch Audit Slip: • • • Batch no.

no. defects • • Audit: Batch no.• • • Quantity: Audit start: Checked: Audit close: Result:  Daily batch auditing work sheet: • • • • • • • • No.O.O.: Audit status: Quantity: MSmts: Result: of Defects description Defective %: Passed quantity: Grand offered by total Grand checked out total Grand total defective units  Daily stitching report: • • • • • • Batch: Tailors: P. no.: Style: Color: Size: on Total loading Production date on Total production Balance production Loading date 69 .: P.: Style no.

blue flower Y-37 FC88P Blue bouquet 70 . key type turn stand. thread. In process: 14/08/2007 Tuesday Code PP091 IPN92 IPN90 PQ 57 Color Brown checks Brown dark Blue dark Thunder grey Style 52820 1 7600 7600 RU60 RU60 Buyer Old navy H&M H&M C K Jeans Benetton Benetton FC87P Red. trimmer.Accessories: Magic pen. trims. white pencil. pointer. fusing material. scissors. iron box. white wax marker. pattern cards. fabric. tape. ironing tables. checking tables. machines.

Here buttons have been stitched as per the buyer requirement. Production is 5000 per day. Workers list:  Supervisor: Alesh  Man power:60 Flow: In case of washing Washing Dispatching Iron Marking Kaja Finishing In case of non wash Batch Dispatch Marking Kaja Finishing 71 .Kaja section This is carried out after sewing of garment. Buttoning is done either before or after wash depending on the type of button used.

Machines:  Strength checker IMADA  Button stitching machine Brother BE 4380 China  Kaja hole machine Brother HE 800A 2 China  Pneumatic snap button machine Ngai shing Hong Kong In process: 16/08/2007 Thursday Code Color IPN92 Brown dark PP09 1 Style 7600 1 Buyer H&M Old navy Contrast brown 52820 72 .

It is also done to maintain the quality norms of the garment. shades. Packing of the garment is done depending on the buyer requirement. The garments from the production section are sent for washing by segregating them on the basis of sizes. Shift production is 6000 per day. Employee list:  Finishing incharge: Dilip  Checking: 35  Iron: 25  Packing: 12  Folding helper: 4  Helper: 2  Packing helper: 1  Embroidery: 1  Supervisor: 3  Q. Production is 3000 per day.FINISHING & PACKING Finishing is done before packing. The main objective of finishing is to finish the garment as per buyer requirement and present more effectively. The main objective of packing is easy transportation of goods. It is been carried out before or after washing as per the buyer requirement or dependent on the fabric.C: 3  Alteration tailor: 2 73 . Packing is the final stage of garment industry for shipment of goods.

 Washing: 2  Darner: 1 Total workers: 90 Machine used: • • Needle detector machine: Hashima HN 740G Thread sucking machine Ramsons Bangalore • Spot wash machine Ramsons stain buster CL1 Bangalore IN-PROCESS FLOW IN FINISHING (a) Unwashed Garments Garments received from the batch audit Quality and measurement inspection Button section Segregation Trimming Thread sucking Rough ironing Final quality and measurement check 74 .

Final ironing Presentation checking Folding as per the buyers specifications Packing Pack audit Shipment (b) Washed Garments Garments received from the batch audit Quality and measurement inspection Button section Dispatching (as per size) Washing Trimming Thread sucking Rough ironing Final quality and measurement check 75 .

A sticker is pasted inside the wash care label at the time of inside checking. In trimming loose threads are cut with the help of a trimmer. TRIMMING: After washing the garments are subjected to trimming section. At the time of trimming care should be taken that it should not affect the stitches in the garment. Inside out side trimming are done on the garment.Final ironing Presentation checking Folding as per the buyers specifications Packing Pack audit Shipment SEGREGATION AND DISPACTING: The garment from batches after button section is segregated and dispatched before or after washing as per the sizes and shades to different batches for further finishing and packing processes. 76 . In case of washing they use poly bags for dispatching of garments to washing section. INSIDE CHECKING: The out side of the garment is checked to note if there is any defects in the inside of the garment.

The steam is connected with the pipe to the steam iron box. folding will depend on the buyer specifications. soap 77 . pen mark. Ironing is done in two stages rough ironing and final ironing. After ironing the garment is measured and put on hanger. Rough ironing is helpful for the identification of defects. These are checked based on buyer identifications. Ironing. Final ironing bottom setting shoulder setting is done. Only inside ironing is carried out. First the buttons are attached and then the garment is ironed. the outside of the garment is checked like parts of the garments. yellow stain. The garment is then placed in the thread-sucking machine. the garment will be rejected. line matching etc. sticker mark. the garment is sent to ironing section. WASHING: Spot washes are done here to remove mud. If possible that part is changed or altered. If replacement is not possible or if stain is not removed in washing. The pieces are again trimmed and checked if any alteration has done on the garment. buttons. etc. IRONING: After Trimming and Checking. All the trimmed threads and dirt’s are removed. if required folding is done. its position. Here high pressure water and steam is used to wash and dry the garment so that no water mark is left out. grease. a sticker is placed over the defect. The method of checking is changed according to the style of the garment. Various chemicals like LOC ( liquid organic cleaner). If there is any defect in the garment or in any part of the garment.OUTSIDE CHECKING: In outside checking.

oil. The place where the tag is to be attached will depend on the buyer specifications. Then the buyer’s auditor will further check and accept the goods. Different types of packing: Packing is done various types based on buyer requirement. all other details are printed over the carton. acetone. baby soap are used. Then the tag or main label is attached with the hand machine. The company auditor checks at the time of packing and accepts the garment based on the purchase order. robin. In the purchase order. PACKING: If the garment is hanger packed. According to the size ratio. put the size clip on the hanger. Only mild chemicals are used such that the feel of the fabric is not altered. The size clip helps to identify the sizes easily. Then the garment is placed inside the polybag. the number of bundles that should be contained in a carton will be mentioned. The Size ratio in a bundle will depend on the purchase order. Shipment case number is put over the carton. They are  Stand up pack  Flat pack  Hanger packs  Semi stand up pack  Roll pack Types of cartons: Buyer H&M Size inch 58*40*40 22*16*6 USA (SP& BP) 24*24*8 24*26*6 24*18*6 AEO 78 22(1/2)*16(1/2)*4 30*11*8 lay 3 7 7 3 3 3 MP 6 7 Old navy Online 22*16*12 . Then the shipping is done. bundles are placed inside the carton.

care or size label missing.SP: single pre pack BP: bulk pre pack MP: multi pre pack List of major Defects: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Brand. not cut properly/ miss aligned Sizing problem Poorly trimmed garment threads Broken stitches Skipped stitches Open seam 79 . snap defect Button hole raveling. incomplete. Shading Wrong color Fabric flaw defect Hole in fabric Damage Conspicuous repair Poor construction Conspicuous soilage (inside or outside) Conspicuous abrasion marks from wash process High/ low pockets Exposed zipper tape Buttons.

stand. Offered qty Audit result Internal Buyer Audit result: Red – fail Green – pass Carton marking: 80 . poly bags. thread. trims. gum tapes. tape. cartons. trolley. machines. Report: Final audit report: Date of inspection buyer Style no. scissors. stickers. hanger. iron table. chemicals.• • • • • • • • • Conspicuous puckering of seam Conspicuous wavy stitching Fleeing or raveling of material Raw edge Uneven seam Sleeve length uneven Sleeves reversed Defect sticker all should be removed Pressing wrinkle appearance Garment zone classification: • • • Red – zone A critical Black – zone B major Green – zone C minor Accessories: Trimmer.

 SDC:  Destiny:  Made in INDIA  Color:  Gross weight:  Net weight:  Dimension:  QTY: • • • • • • • CTN PO#: Prepack: Style: Size code: QTY: Total packs: OF: In process: 16/08/2007 Code PP03 1 IPN90 Thursday Buyer Old navy H&M Color Style Brown checks 52820 Blue dark 1 7600 WASHING DEPARTMENT The main objective of washing to remove stains. check for shrinkage and also to enhance the feel of the garment. dirt. Washing of garment is also done to 81 . dust. pencil marks.

There are different types of washes given to the garment some of them are: 82 . etc. sampling stage and after bulk production. buyer requirement and specification.e. However the method of wash given to the garment depends on the nature of fabric. dirt. They are: 1. enhances the feel of the garment and also to provide required effects on the surface of the garment. remove stains. sand blasting. buyer requirement and specifications. etc. Workers list: • • • • • Incharge – 3 ( Sandil Kumar) Data entering – 1 Checkers – 2 Sorters – 2 Workers – 30 Washing is of two types. Wet wash: In this method water is one of the main ingredient used for washing. Such washes are widely used for all sorts of garments. However the type of wash depends upon the nature of fabric. Dry wash 2. Wet wash Dry wash: As the name itself indicates “dry” here water is not used. Example: stone wash. Washing of garment is done in two stages before bulk production i. Such washes are more used on denim and jean fabrics. pencil marks. Production is 40000 kg per day. grinding. This is done to check shrinkage.give special effects of on the garment. This is usually done to give certain effects on the garment.

Dip and Dry wash In dip and dry. Stone wash 83 . dust etc. Enzyme wash Enzymes are used in enzyme wash. Rubber ball wash is mainly used for thick fabrics to give flowing appearance or to feel smooth. The balls are put into the machine at the time of washing. For heavier fabrics different types of softeners are used. Amino silicon is mainly used. the garment is dipped in water and dried. These enzymes dissolve the fibers that are pulled on the surface of the fabrics and gives smooth appearance to the fabric. Softener wash Softeners are used for softener wash to give softness to the garment. and also to get good appearance. This helps to avoid shrinkage and to remove sizing material.• • • • • • • Rubber ball wash Softener wash Plain wash Enzyme wash Dip and dry Stone wash Sand blasting [ dry wash] [ dry wash] Rubber ball wash Special types of rubber balls are used for rubber ball washing. This type of washing is very expensive. Plain wash Plain wash is done to remove stains.

Aluminum oxide is used for this purpose. The area to be shaded is marked out and sand under high pressure and force is moved on the marked area the continuous friction between the surface of garment and sand particles fades the color of the garment this is done manually.) Streaks Stains Others 84 . This is mainly used for jeans and pants. shirts. label.Stone wash is mainly used in denim garments to get good luster. which improve luster on the surface of the fabric hence good appearance is obtained. pocket. Sand blasting Sand blasting is mainly done for denim garments to obtain the shaded effect on the surface of the garment. Special type of stones which are said to be pumice stones are used in washing.etc. embroidery . trousers as per requirement. This type of washing is mainly used for jeans and trousers. Defects • • • • • • • • • • • • Hand feel Shade Puckering( high low effect) Pilling or rising level Grainy ( denim) Back staining Patches Damages Tinting/ bleeding (button.

85 .Flow chart of Washing Department: Segregation Bulk washing Hydro extraction Drying Checking Bundling The important factors to be considered at the time of washing are tinting. bleeding. open stitch and damage. Chemicals are used to avoid tinting. Tinting means one color spreading on another color in fabrics.

Industrial washing machine is used for washing. where the water is squeezed out of the garments. • Ramsons (front loading) Industrial washing machine Bangalore Capacity: 60kg 86 . Tumble drier is used for drying the garments completely. garments and the machine is rotated. In laundry. Single rotating and double rotating are available in the machine normally single rotation is used. During time is varied with the weight of the fabric. Proper drying takes place in the driers.Bleeding means color fading by the loss of color from the fabric by the use of low quality dyes. The number of pieces received for washing and delivered after washing is reported in daily production report. chemicals. The machines are filled with sufficient quantity of water. The machine stops automatically when the door is opened during its working. temperature control devices are present on the machine. random checking is done in a lot before and after washing. This is due to using high concentrated chemicals or increase in the duration of washing. Some times damage is occurred at the time of washing. Dye fixing is done to prevent color bleeding. From washing machine the garments are transferred to the hydro extractor. Machines and their make: • SECO Garment processing ED280MP ( front loading) Thane Capacity: 100 kg. detergents. soap. the quality of water. type of chemicals. Water level indicator. and also the duration of washing will vary according to the type of fabric and method of washing.

• Ramsons (top loading) Industrial washing machine Bangalore Capacity: 70kg • Smartex (front loading) Industrial washing machine Bangalore Capacity: 500kg • Ramsons Steam dryer Bangalore Capacity: 120kg.O:  Buyer:  Garment:  Color:  Quantity check:  Defects: 87 . • Ramsons Hydro extractor Bangalore Capacity: 100kg Report:  Checking report:  Style:  P.

Employee’s details: In charge: Chikkaiah Total man power: 26 Electrician: 8 Mechanic: 12 Stores: 1 (2 batch: 1 mechanic 2 floor: 1 electrician) Machine lubrication is done in once in 3 months (floor wise). 88 . They also supply safety materials which required for process for workers. Break down machines.MAINTAINENCE: The main object of this department is the machines of various style & tools required for the process of garment production is been maintained & made provision of supplying of required machine & tools. power cut each & every electrical & mechanical parts are been maintained.

Requirement of various machine style flow: Planning ↓ Merchandizing ↓ IED ↓ Analysis & issue the machine to the batch Machine suppliers:  Juki – Japan  Brother – Japan  Pegasus – Japan  Eastman – America  Hashima – Japan  Ram sons – Bangalore  Durkopp Adler – Germany  Sun star – China  Siruba – China Machine used: Machine type Straight knife cutting machine Band knife machine End cutter Fusing machine Single needle machine Single needle machine Single needle machine end cutter Single needle machine end cutter Make Eastman Wastema Eastman Hashima Juki Brother Juki Brother Make BLSTII 629 STU 492 EC 3 HP 100 ED DDL 5530 DB2 B736 DLM 5200N DB2 B777 BA 89 .

Single needle machine end cutter Single needle machine UBT Single needle machine UBT Over lock machine Over lock machine Feed off form Double needle machine Double needle machine 12N chain stitch machine Button hole machine Button hole machine Button stitch machine Button stitch machine Bar tack machine Bar tack machine Key hole machine Key hole machine Siruba Juki Brother Juki Siruba Juki Juki Brother Kansai Juki Brother Juki Brother Juki Brother Juki Reece L818F RM1 DDL 5550 N3 SL 737A 403 MO 3616 757F 516M2 35 MS 1261 LH 3138 LT 2 B8453 KS 1412 PQ LBH 781 LH4 B814 2 LK 1903 LK 3 P438E LK 1900 LK3 P430E 2 MEB 3200 S 100 Reports: Machine requirement for batches: • • Batch : Type of machine required: Goods received note: Item Item name Item description UOM Quantity Location Lot number 90 .

91 .

Sign up to vote on this title
UsefulNot useful