Jeffrey Warnock © 2005

Concrete pad in flower bed
poured 4” thick.

3/8” anchor bolts drilled and
epoxied.

Dimensions of frame were
marked on the cement floor using
a Sharpie felt tip permanent pen.

(steel frame bolted into place)

The rounded portions of steel
were bent into shape at a steel
bending shop. I cut the mid-sec-
tion out of the lower portion to
create the opening to the wood
storage area.

“C clamps” used to hold top plat-
form level while vertical supports
on sides are welded into place.
Entire steel base welded together
and bolted to the ground. Sili-
cone applied to the base to pro-
tect the steel from seeping water.

Steel base is 29.5” high by 48”
wide by 68” long.

The steel is 11/4” square stock.

Anodized aluminum sheet cut to
fit and screwed into steel base.
This is the base for refractory
concrete mold.
Firebrick walls are temporarily
placed to for spacing.

Ash drop is marked to ensure
proper placement.

Temporary wood forms clamped
into place and edges sealed with
tape. This mold is to cast a 5”
high bed of concrete for the base.

Aluminum sheet metal to form
rounded section of the mold.
Wood areas are covered with
mold release to keep concrete
from sticking to the wood.

Seam reinforced with duct tape.
(This turned out to be unneces-
sary because the concrete mixed
too dry to leak water).

“Kastolite 22” refractory con-
crete was used for bottom two
inches of base. This concrete is
used for its high insulation prop-
erties.

This stuff mixes really dry...
almost to a damp oatmeal consis-
tency. It is extremely porous (al-
most like bean bag filler slightly
adhered to one another) it is not
very dense.
Appropriate amount of water (per
55 lbs. bag) is in trough. Kasto-
lite is ready to add and mix.

Refractory concrete will be re-
inforced with 4” x 4” galvanized
small gauge steel rod. This is
typically used for fencing.

1” of concrete is poured then the
reinforcing rod is placed fol-
lowed by another 1” of concrete.
Typically the word “poured” is
used to describe filling with con-
crete; however, the Kastolite was
so thick it was “scooped” into
place then tamped down.

Edges of wire are turned up
which will break the surface of
the Kastolite enabling the top
layer (of a different refractory
concrete) to “tie” into it — creat-
ing a mechanical attachment.
I marked the center of the hearth
and drilled a 1/4” hole. I then
adhered and caulked this pipe
over the hole. This will create a
space for my hearth floor thermo-
couple (so I won’t need to drill
one later). I taped over the top
of the pipe to keep the concrete
from entering.

This is a wood form used to cre-
ate the “negative” space for my
ash drop. It is covered in duct
tape and mold release for easy
removal.

(Kastolite 22 cast complete)

3 additional inches of refractory
concrete needed (as shown here).

For the top 3 inches I used an-
other type of refractory concrete
called “Mizzou Castable Plus”
This has less insulation proper-
ties than the Kastolite but is
stronger and more dense (which
doesn’t need wire rod reinforce-
ment).
After the Mizzou Castable Plus is
Cast and dry I used a charcoal
fire (a few days later) to heat and
cure the concrete.

I left on the aluminum sheet met-
al to keep the ashes from blowing
off as a breeze picked up.

* Originally, the top layer of
refractory concrete was going to
be my hearth floor. However,
I learned later that cast hearth
floors can run the risk of “peel-
ing” over time. So I made the
decision (for my own peace of
mind) to use a tried-and-tested
firebrick (or in this case, some-
thing equivalent to individual
firebricks).

Tile/stone wet diamond saw
rented from Home Depot Profes-
sional to cut the hearth slabs.

These are essentially large fire-
brick. I chose these because they
create less seams than individual
firebrick. The measurements are
12” X 24” X 21/2”

I cut 5” off the ends of all 6 tiles
making each one 19” long.
This troweled on paste is a
combination of fireclay, sand,
and water. I used a 1/4” notched
trowel. I recommend spraying
the concrete with a little water
first to keep it from drawing the
moisture out of the paste too
rapidly.

This paste consists of:
1 part fine sand,
1 part fireclay,
And water added to desired con-
sistency

First two tiles are set and lightly
hammered using a rubber mallet
until level.

My outer hearth shelf (which will
be installed later) was going to be
installed here — flush with the
refractory concrete hearth (which
is the reason for this empty sec-
tion).

String used to snap center line
down paste.
All tiles are in place and level.

Firebrick walls are temporarily
placed and outlined on hearth
tiles (with a ‘Sharpie’ felt tip
pen).

Bricks are mortared into place
using a refractory mortar mix.
Bricks are briefly dunked in wa-
ter to help mortar adhere.

Refractory mortar mix consists
of:
10 parts sand,
3 parts Portland cement,
and 11/2 parts fireclay
(bird’s eye view of hearth and
brick layout)

Inside hearth dimensions: 281/2”
wide by 40” long (length is mea-
sured from back wall to entrance
bricks).

Four rows of firebricks temporar-
ily placed. 1/4” thick plywood
spacers in between bricks to
simulate thickness of mortar
joints.
Firebrick arch laid out and traced
to create plywood template.
Overall height of oven ceiling
is 16” (hearth floor to center of
middle “key” brick).

Plywood template is cut and
measured against back wall then
the outline is traced. Also, the
mortar gaps (between bricks) are
traced to ensure proper place-
ment of arch bricks as they are
mortared into place. This is
important so the final keystone
brick does not need to be cut to
fit.

Measuring stick created as a
guide to keep back wall the
proper height as brick rows are
mortared into place.
I chose to cut the firebricks to
match the ceiling arch. This will
ensure that I can get a uniform
amount of insulation around
the back section of the oven (as
there won’t be any brick corners
extruding beyond the ceiling
bricks).

I also numbered the bricks (using
a Sharpie pen) to keep consistent.

(back wall mortared)
Plywood arch form is in place.
Arch form is two pieces of ply-
wood screwed together with two
pieces of 2X4 lumber between
them.

Firebricks are cut diagonally to
create base of arch.

Arch is supported by two vertical
2X4’s.

Two 1/4” wood shims are under-
neath to allow for easier removal
of 2X4’s.

First row of arched bricks mor-
tared into place.

Vertical wall bricks are tempo-
rarily reinforced with 1” X 6”
boards from any outward pres-
sure created from arch. With this
particular arch curvature I don’t
think the support boards were
necessary, but I did it anyway.
The 2nd row of arched bricks are
mortared into place.

(bird’s eye view both rows of
arched bricks)
Raised hearth support cast with
Mizzou Castable Plus. This
will allow for the 1” thick outer
hearth shelf to be flush with the
hearth floor.

Rounded portion of the base
is covered with 1/8” plywood.
Wood is painted and covered
with tar paper (moisture block).

Self-tapping screws are used to
attach wood into steel frame. Pre-
drilling the holes became neces-
sary as some of the screws would
shear.

The 3rd row of arched bricks are
mortared into place.

1/4” steel shelf welded to frame
needed to support cobblestone
over the base opening.
(bird’s eye view of 3rd arched
row of firebricks)

3/8” hole drilled for thermocou-
ple probe.

I stapled wire lath to wood front
before applying the stucco. I
forgot to take a picture.

Galvanized masonry straps
screwed to steel frame to create
mechanical anchor to cobble-
stone. (Added reassurance
cobblestone will stay put in the
event of earthquake).

Stucco applied (allows mortar
behind stones to stick).
(Cobblestone finished)

This took a lot of time to com-
plete and was exhausting work.
After drinking lots of Gatorade
during the hot summer days I
finally finished it. It took about 8
days to opposed to the 2 or 3 that
I thought it would.) I have a new
found respect for stone masons.

I used Quikrete’s Contractor
Grade Sanded Mortar Mix for
the cobblestone mortar. It took
more bags than I thought...I can’t
remember the exact quantity but
I had to go back for more.

I recommend wearing gloves (I
wore heavy duty dish gloves).
The lime is harsh on the skin if
it’s not accustomed to it.

I scored some stones with a
masonry cutting blade on my 4
1/2” angle grinder and then used
a stone chisel and sledge hammer
to them break apart. Fortunately I
didn’t have too many to cut.
(Angle view)

Mortar residue (haze) still needs
to be cleaned off the cobble-
stones.

For proper drafting, a Quebec
style oven should have a door
to ceiling height ratio of 63%
(exactly).

Since my ceiling was 16” high I
needed to add a small firebrick
riser to get a door height of 10”.
Stainless steel angle iron mor-
tared into place. I used a wood-
burning stove cement for this
as it is better properties for both
masonry and metal.

2X4’s used to support bricks
while mortar sets.

“C clamps” used to hold angle
iron and to keep it from sliding
(from downward pressure of
bricks).

Firebricks cut to size and mor-
tared to span across gap.
Mortar is dried and clamps are
removed.

Thermocouple mortared to oven
ceiling and inserted into drilled
hole.
Corner gaps filled with mortar
and small pieces of brick.

Chimney support bricks (used
red brick) cut to approximately
3/4 their original length and mor-
tared into place.

I chose used red brick because
these will be more visible and I
preferred them over the firebrick
for aesthetic purposes.

(Angle view)
Wood form built to cast the shape
chimney of the refractory con-
crete chimney base.

1 piece top form

Bottom form (spacer)

1/4” wood shims

The idea here is to cast the chim-
ney into place using refractory
concrete (Mizzou Castable Plus).
This method will give more
support than arched bricks and a
solid foundation for the chimney.
Plus, it allows for additional “fac-
ing” for the doorway piece (this
will make sense later).
Aluminum sheet metal is used to
help created the form shape.

I used clay (not shown) to tempo-
rarily fill in all the gaps between
the form and the bricks.

Rebar bent and welded to small
pieces of angle iron.

Angle iron supports are drilled
and screwed into the red brick.

Rebar painted with high-heat
resistant paint.
Once the concrete is cast, the
1/4” spacers will be removed.

Removing the 1/4” spacers will
allow the bottom form to drop
and slide out.

Top form can then slide down
and out of the concrete that is
cast over it.

This plastic bucket (at the hori-
zontal purple line) has the same
circumference as the interior
chimney circumference. The
bucket will be used as a transi-
tion from the top form to the
chimney (yes, the bucket is re-
moved after the chimney is cast).
(Angle view)

I used clay to temporarily fill in
this gap.

I used hot-glue to adhere the
bucket to the aluminum.

Wood forms in place and Mizzou
Castable Plus is cast.

I used a mold-release on all wood
forms prior to casting.
The weight of the concrete cre-
ates outward pressure on the
outer form that contains the
concrete.

This outer form needed to be
held into place with these pieces
of wood. The ash drop came in
handy as it gave me the neces-
sary leverage to brace this with
the vertical white board.

(angle view of stainless steel
chimney cast into place)

This chimney is called a 6” insu-
lated chimney. It has two walls
(an outer and inner) separated by
1” of fiber insulation. The outer
diameter is 8”.

6”

8”

Outer form
(angle view)
Two 18" sections of chimney will
be used to create a 36" chimney
length.

Refractory concrete is set and
wood forms and bucket are re-
moved.
(angle view)

This “facing” area will be cov-
ered with a ceramic tile facade.

This vantage point shows the
arch and the opening at the base
of the chimney.
Outer hearth shelf cemented into
place. I chose to use a com-
mercial refractory mortar called
“Heat Stop II.”

I wanted the bull-nose finish on
the hearth shelf. I considered
casting the shelf out of concrete
but ended up choosing ceramic
clay so I could get the durable
glazed surface. I made the outer
shelf in my ceramic studio. I
used a stoneware clay and a Gun-
metal glaze (cone 5) .

I poked a lot of little holes in the
underside of each shelf piece to
ensure any air-pockets weren’t
going to be a problem during the
kiln firing process.

The bull-nose gives the appear-
ance that the shelf is the thick-
ness of the bull-nose all the way
through. However, it is only 1”
thick on the top surface.

This is an illustration of a cross
- section.

1”
(angle view)

11/4” aluminum angle iron is
attached to concrete slab (using
masonry screws and high-heat
silicone). This it about 41/2”
away from the outer edge of the
hearth tile. It will hold in the
fiber insulation and also be used
to attach the wire lath to (for the
stucco finish).

I constructed the damper for
this in the second piece of chim-
ney. The damper is made of stain-
less steel sheet cut to just under a
6” diameter circle.

I drilled two holes in either side
of the chimney. The rod is alu-
minum and is cut to 63/4 inches
(a bit longer in order to penetrate
the wall on either side which
holds it in place)

(Brass screw used as a stop)
At first I wanted to finish the
doorway facade with used brick.

After laying out the bricks I de-
cided I didn’t like the size of the
gaps between the arched bricks.

I chose to go back to my ceramic
studio to create something more
unique. This is a 3 piece facade
mortared into place (also using
Heat Stop II).

Rope clamp used to hold ‘key’
tile into place while mortar sets.

Band clamp used to hold side-
pieces in place while mortar sets.
As the rains came I built a wood
frame using 2” X 2” lumber.
It rained for almost 3 weeks
straight and this allowed me to
keep working.

I used 1/4” fiber paper to cover
the oven. It is cut using utility
shears (heavy duty scissors). The
fiber paper is compressed and
doesn’t shed the same way the
thicker Kaowool does. It is still
necessary to use gloves and a
respirator.

Fiber paper is used in the kiln
and furnace industry and has a
temperature rating of 1800° F.
This image is of the box the fiber
paper came in with the product
and manufacturer names.

Since it is somewhat rigid (al-
though flexible) it was neces-
sary to cut the pieces to cover
the smaller and irregular surface
planes. I used kiln cement (used
for bricks) slightly thinned with
water, to adhere the fiber paper to
the brick.
Two layers of the fiber paper
were applied.

Although the chimney is already
insulated, I chose to cover it with
a layer of fiber paper as well. I
am glad I did because the chim-
ney gets hotter than I expected
and needed the extra insulation to
protect the stucco.

High temperature aluminum
tape (for heating ducts) is used
to cover the fiber paper seams.
(This tape is not standard canvas
“duct tape”).
Aluminum angle iron adhered
and clamped to ceramic doorway
facade.

I pre-drilled the holes before at-
taching. The holes are for galva-
nized steel wire—to attach wire
lath later on.
Additional high-heat silicone
(RTV Silicone) used to adhere
the angle iron to the ceramic
doorway facade.

1/2” space kept for the depth of
the combination of the wire lath
and stucco.

I made relief cuts using metal
cutting blade on angle grinder.
These cuts allowed for the angle
iron to be bent to match the curve
of the arch.
(front view)

Clamps in place while silicone
cures.

2” thick “Mineral wool” used for
added insulation. This is typi-
cally used for pipe/duct insula-
tion and has a rating to 1300° F.
It is dense insulation and can be
easily cut using a hand saw.
This is the box the mineral wool
was packaged in. It is also impor-
tant to wear gloves, long sleeved
shirt, and a respirator. I also wore
goggles.

Two layers are used. It already
has the moisture block (the silver
surface) as part of the insulation
so tin foil was not needed.

I really appreciated the properties
of the mineral wool as it easily
conformed to the desired shape
I was after. Since it is dense, it
does not sag or compress (as
standard house fiberglass insula-
tion does).

I pre-strung the galvanized wire
in the drilled holes of the alumi-
num angle iron as the tolerance
was too tight once the insulation
was in place. The insulation fit
tightly against the angle iron.
(front view)

The mineral wool has moderate
flexibility along one plane.

This transition area was covered
using smaller pieces of cut min-
eral wool.

Aluminum tape used to cover
“pieced” areas of mineral wool.
(other side)

Chimney wrapped in foil to cre-
ate moisture block.
Wire lath is cut and ‘wired’ into
place.

Working with the wire lath was
difficult, as it was sharp and not
always easy to cut. I used stan-
dard tin-snips to cut it. Definitely
wear work gloves to avoid cuts.
Once cut with tin snips, the edges
can be sharp like razor-wire.

It took a long time to piece this
together. It is slow work to do it
right.

Since the wire is not applied to a
hard plywood surface (as it usu-
ally is) there weren’t any staples
used to attach it. It is merely
a ‘skin’ of wire lath sections
attached to one another using
twisted wire.

I used 20 gauge galvanized steel
wire to attach the lath. Each piece
of wire was cut to approximately
3” lengths then twisted using
need-nose pliers. Once tight, the
excess wire was cut off.
(Angle view)

(Side view)

There isn’t much overlapping
of the wire lath (if any, it is very
slight). I will be using a single (1
coat) stucco application. Since
the stucco will only be 3/8” thick
I didn’t want to worry about cre-
ating a thicker application over
the ridges (caused by “overlap-
ping” edges).
(side view of the back of the
oven)

Prefabricated corner form used
to create 90° angle. This was
very convenient and proved to
be much easier than creating a
smooth line from the joining
edges of the wire lath. Portions
of this corner wire had to be cut
in order for it to bend.

Wire lath overlaps angle iron.

These transitional areas required
smaller irregular sections of wire
lath pieced together.
(Front view of transitional area)

(Side view of the opposite end)
(Angle view)

(Front view)

The chimney was difficult to
wrap the wire lath around, as the
lath wanted to spring outward
where the ends meet.

About an hour before applying
the stucco, I applied a coat of
bonding agent to the entire sur-
face (wire lath and substrate).
I did some research and found
this stucco to be ideal for this
job. This is an 80 lb. bag of fiber-
glass-reinforced stucco with sand
(just need to add water). This is a
one-coat application only need-
ing to be 3/8” thick. The fiber-
glass fibers are about an inch or
two long and give a lot of added
strength; especially in this situa-
tion where the stucco is being ap-
plied to a relatively soft backing.
Lastly, it has a temperature rating
to 300° F. Not to worry though,
the stucco remains cool to the
touch when the oven is over 650
°F inside.

I began by applying the stucco
with a trowel but it was slow. I
began to scoop the stucco with
my hands to spread it on — it
was far easier and more efficient.
After it was spread on, I could
then go over it with a trowel to
smooth it out.

Don’t use thin disposable latex
gloves for this job. They tear
easily and then the lime in the
stucco begins to attack the skin.
My hands were pretty beat-up
after this job.

Also, if your eyes are sensitive
to lime it might be beneficial to
wear goggles.
It took two 80 lbs. bags (exactly)
to cover the entire oven. Give
yourself the good portion of the
day to do this. I started around
11:15 in the morning and finished
(with clean-up) about 8:15 in
the evening. I was tired as I was
on my feet all day. It probably
would have saved me time if I
was using more durable gloves
and used my hands from the
beginning.

Red masking tape to create clean
edge.

It was a big mistake not to cover
the outer hearth and cobblestone
with paper or plastic. Cleaning
the dropped stucco proved to
be more time consuming than I
expected.
The next day after the stucco has
partially cured.

A brass chain for opening and
closing the damper. Still needs to
be attached to the side.

After curing, I removed the
towel ridges and rough spots in
the stucco with 6 x 3-inch fluted
Silicon Carbide Stone.

Stucco residue still needing to be
scrubbed off.
Here is the 20 lb. bucket of dry
masonry coating. Add water or
concrete Acrylic fortifier to mix.

This masonry coating is sanded
so it gives a textured finish. I
chose white so it could be easliy
colored. It also comes in Gray.

I chose to add 50% water and
50% acrylic fortifier (for added
strength and water resistance)
to the mix. I also used a little
“Davis” mason stain to add a bit
of color.

The amount of stain used for the
first coat was about two table
spoons for the 20 lbs.... It was
such a small amount it was too
light to weigh.

15 lbs. (or 3/4 of the bucket)
probably would have been
enough to cover the oven with
the first coat.
This is the type of brush I used
to apply the second coat. This is
a natural fiber texturing brush. I
used a more rigid synthetic ma-
sonry brush for the first coat and
it was too rigid for my prefer-
ence (as it was difficult to apply
evenly).

This natural fiber brush was a
much better choice.
First coat (shown here) was a
little too light (in tonality) for my
preference.

Charcoal colored sanded grout
applied in between pieces of out-
er hearth shelf — then followed
by grout sealer 24 hours later.

For the 2nd coat I used two table
spoons of mason stain for 10 lbs.
(About twice the ratio as the first
coat).

The 2nd coat was applied within
24 hours of the first. The 2nd
coat spread on more efficiently
as it did not absorb as fast as the
first coat. So the 2nd coat only
needed about 10 lbs. of masonry
mix.

Here it is partially dried (as it ap-
pears splotchy).
This started out as a stainless
steel spark arrestor. I thought
it looked a bit commercial so I
modified it.

I bought some copper sheet and
made a cone which was at-
tached to the top (using high-heat
silicone). The silicone is flexible
so it is a good choice as there is
probably a little expansion as it
heats up.

I used copper spray paint and
painted the expanded steel. I
figured this part would be get-
ting black after the first few uses
so matching the luster to the real
copper was not so important.

I also cut a copper ring to apply
to the underside of the spark ar-
rester (also using silicone) which
finished it off nicely.
The 2nd coat of masonry coat-
ing is dry and the tonality of the
surface has evened out.

I also scrubbed the mortar resi-
due off the stones using a mild
acid.

With the other stubborn areas I
will use Muriatic acid.

With areas of ‘caked on’ mortar
I used a steel wire attachment on
my drill.

I sprayed the cobblestone base
and the stucco with a Glaze n'
Seal "natural look" water-based
penetrating sealer.
This photograph was taken in the
evening.

I found someone to deliver a 1/8
cord of oak. We requested that all
pieces of oak be no greater than
4” in diameter (ideal for brick
oven burning).

I also bought some Manzanita
wood which was a good decision
as it burns nice and hot.
(Oven door in place)

(Photographed in the evening)

This door I made using 3/4”
plywood. I applied a thin fire-
proof gasket coating to the wood
then wrapped it in copper sheet.
I used copper nails and rivets to
attach the sheet. Below is a cross
section of the door — steel angle
iron is attached to the bottom for
stability.
(Second fire)

This is the first fire since the
oven has been completed.

Looking to get the oven about
300° to 400° F for the seasoning
process. I was not planning on
cooking anything with this firing.
(Fire slightly bigger)

(My brother-in-law and I)

The digital thermometer is
brought in the house when not
in use (as it is not weather re-
sistant). Probe wire which is
plugged into the meter is then
coiled and tucked back under the
oven.
Hot coals (embers) pushed to the
back.

Fluke Dual-Input Digital Ther-
mometer reading 650° F.

Receptacle for 2nd thermocouple
to be added soon (in hearth
floor).

I spliced a 6 foot thermocouple
onto the one included with this
unit.
Embers pushed to the side.

Steel angle iron inserted to hold
the embers in place.

Cheese beginning to bubble on
the classic Margherita pizza.

*We need to work on getting our
pizza dough a bit more circular
in shape.
Three chickens roasting.

These three chickens cooked in
about 45 minutes. We started
them after cooking the pizzas and
finishing dinner. We put them
in at 605° F. 25 minutes into
the cooking we added a couple
handfuls of wet Hickory chips to
the embers for additional flavor.
For the chicken in the center, we
tried a vertical chicken roaster (a
stainless steel wire rod cone at-
tached to a saucer). I’ll get more
of these vertical roasters so all
chickens can be roasted this way.

Also, I decided to save a few
bucks by making my peels. A de-
cent manufactured peel will cost
anywhere from $15 to $25 each.

I bought a quarter sheet of 5/16”
plywood (with a cabinet grade
veneer on each side) for a under
$10. I cut 4 peels from the sheet.
Each peel is 12” wide and about
231/2” long.

When having people over for
a pizza party, having a peel for
each person to create their pizza
on is ideal.
I ended up buying a 2nd sheet
to make some peels with longer
handles.
It was pretty straight forward
using a router followed by a belt
sander to create the leading bev-
eled edge.
I went over all the surfaces with
a random-orbital sander using
220 grit paper. I oiled the peels
using mineral oil (as it does not
burn or turn rancid).

*I made a printable pattern of the
peel on the following page.

Suppliers to thank... I’m looking forward to baking
Alan Steel and Supply (Redwood City, CA) some bread next time.
Leslie’s Ceramics (Berkeley, CA)
E.J. Bartells (Renton, WA)
Home Depot (Colma, CA) That’s it for now.
Orchard Supply (San Jose, CA)
Pyro Minerals Incorporated (Oakland, CA)
Armil C.F.S. (South Holland, IL)
Home Discount Builder’s Supply (San Francisco, CA)
ANH Refractories (Harbison-Walker-Green) (Richmond, CA)
Ceramics & Crafts Supply Co Incorporated (San Francisco, CA)
Warm Solutions (South San Francisco, CA)
ClayMaker/ClayPlanet (San Jose, CA)
Penninsula Building Supply (Santa Clara, CA)
Muller Construction Company (San Jose, CA)
ACE Hardware (San Francisco, CA)
Quickrete (Fremont, CA)
Aubuchon Hardware (hardwarestore.com)
Janco Welding Supplies (San Jose, CA)
Large’s Metal Fabrication (Watsonville, CA)
Superior Tube-Pipe Bending (Hayward, CA)
Buckley Rumford Company (Port Townsend, WA)
OvenCrafter’s (Petaluma. Califonia)
Bailey Ceramic Supply (Kingston, NY)
Bargain Hunters (Modesto, CA)
The Bread Builders (book) by Daniel Wing and Alan Scott
Build Your Own Earth Oven (book) by Kiko Denzer (for the initial idea)
(And my parents, for giving me their extra cobblestone).
Lastly, I want to thank all the people in the various trade industries for all their advice and expertise in their
related fields. Without their input and opinions on the various stages of this project it would have been more
experimental than I would have preferred. And thanks to all the oven builders who posted their experiences
and pictures of building processes to websites...the information was invaluable.
And most importantly, a big thank you to my wife Jan for all her support.
To print to a regular printer,
choose “Tile all pages” in the
printer’s dialog box for this
to print to individual 8.5 x
11pages. After all 6 pages
are printed, cut off the mar-
gins near the printed areas.
Use the grid to align and
tape pages together to
create the finished pattern.
I brought this file down to a
service bureau (Kinko’s copies
in my case) to have it printed
on a large format printer.