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Report on

Taken

(WEAVING UNIT)

RAKHOLI, SAYLI, SILVASSA

BY

Mr. Bultan Sarkar

Govt. College of Engineering & Textile Technology,


Berhampore (W.B.)

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

As per course schedule, I have taken Industrial Training at ALOK


INDUSTRIES LIMITED, SILVASSA from 29.06.2010 to 26.07.2010.The
experience of 28 days was both challenging and immensely valuable.
This tanning had given me the opportunity to learn the entire
operational activities of mills. The practical knowledge, which we have
acquired over the period, will definitely be beneficial to our future as a
Textile Engineer.

At first I am highly thankful to Mr. R.B Mahapatra(Unit Head) for


allowing me undergo the training at the mill. Then I am thankful to Mr.
Rinku Nath(HR Manager), Mr. Dilip Panigrahi and all the H.O.D
and supervisors including employees of mill for their kind co-operation
during the course.

At the end I am especially grateful to Mr. Debraj Sarkar (T.P.O) for


arranging the training for me and provided me with the required

Place: Silvassa From


Date: 26.07.2010

Mr. Bultan Sarkar

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SR NO. SUBJECT PAGE
1 COMPANY PROFILE 1-2

2 RAW MATERIALS 3-7

3 QUALITY ASSURANCE 8-16

4 P.P.C 17-19

5 WEAVING PREPARATORY 20-34

6 WEAVING 35-49

7 INSPECTION & PACKING 50-55

8 KNITTING 56-60

9 CP/POY 61-68

10 TEXTURISING 69-74

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ALOK INDUSTRIES LIMITED
ALOK was established in 1986 as apvt. Ltd. company with 1st polyester
texturising plant being set up in1989. Over the years it has Expanded
into weaving, knitting, processing home textiles and garments. And to
insure q uality and cost, efficiencies it has integrated backward into
cotton spinning and manufacturing of POY through CP route Alok also
provided embroidered products through Grabal alok implex Ltd.
Alok has recently entered the domestic retail segment through a wholly
owned subsidiary Alok retail India Ltd, with a chain of stores named
H&A that offers garments and home textiles at attractive prices.

LOCATION:
Survey no: 17/5/1 & 521/1
Village Rakholi, Sayali
Silvassa: Khanvel road
Silvassa: 396230
(D&N.H) India.

Busines activities:
Alok is a well established, profit making, consistently dividend paying
professionally managed textile company. The company has intergrated
manufacturing facilities for:
• Home textiles
• Apparel fabrics
• Texturising

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The vertically integrated operation and flexibility to produce in cotton/
polyester/ viscose and blend in various counts has enabled the
customers and thus provide integrated textile solutions.
The total value addition chain in textile and Alok’s presence in the chain
is indicated below:
• Fibres
• Spinning
• Weaving/ knitting
• Processing
• Garments/Home textiles/ Madeup
• Retailing

I.M.S policy
WE, AT ALOK INDUSTIES LIMITED ARE COMMITTEDTOWARDS-
1. Serving our customer to their satisfaction by efficiency reliable
supply of products at most competitive rises and meeting social
objectives and other specified requirement through INTEGRATED
MANAGEMENT SYSTEM.
2. Constantly improving product quality, environment, performance
work environment and services by up- gradation of skill,
knowledge and technology through employee education and
involvement.
3. Ensuring a healthy and safe environmental in and around our
manufacturing plants complying with all applicable legal and
other requirement related to safety, health, environment, social
and quality aspect by setting and reviewing quality, environment,
health, and safety objectives towards continual improvement.

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4. Enhancing corporate social responsibility by making earnest
endeavors to prevent environment pollution, reduce
occupational, health hazard minimize waste and optimize useof
natural resources.
RAW MATERIALS
• Two types of raw materials means yarns are consumed by the
industry these are (a)-Grey Yarn
(b)-Dyed yarn

• Count range of yarns 6ˢ Ne to 120ˢ Ne


Among these open end yarn 6ˢ-20ˢ Ne ,
Carded yarn up to 30ˢ Ne,
Combed yarn 30ˢ to 120ˢ Ne,
Compact yarn 30ˢ to 60ˢ Ne,
Double yarn range 2/6 to 2/20 & various count of PC,CVC are used
as raw materials.

• Alok consumed 80% raw materials from his own spinning mill &
20% raw materials from other industry (Near Industries,
Vardhman Industries, Ravali Spinning Ltd,Trident, Dhanlaxmi,
Vasundhara Cotton mills, Sandhya Spinning Mills Abhishek
Industries Limited,Vasundhara Cotton mills Pvt.Ltd, Kallam
Spinning Mills etc.).

• Daily consumption of raw material is 120 ton.


• Total capacity of this godown is 1200-1400 tons

• Raw materials are stored in godown as Cone & Chesse in carton or


plate according to their Count wise.

• No of worker in this godown is 45.

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• The method of raw materials proceeds is:

Material verified at gate

Give massage to operation

Verified whether the order is given or not

Then it enter

Then check the data

Then sample goes to QA to check the quality

Then unload

Stocked

Distribute to dept.

• Some samples which is used


by Alok Industries Ltd.are given bellow:
• Sample-1(Dyed material)

 Alok Industries Ltd.(Spinning


Div.)
 Date: 28.06.2010

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 Party: Saha Mahash Kumar
Mohanlal & Co.
 Count: CTN 40 COMB COMP
WVG Midnight
 Shade: Midnight
 Shade No: YX048717
 SORT:
AW00666666XWYDNF
 SO No: 3062078182
 PO No: 109410078882
 LOT No: YD1000334446
 STPO: 5100099317 WVG
RW STORE
 No of cone: 12
 Gross weight: 15.82 kg
 Net weight: 15.82 kg
 Sap batch: 3011375748
 Carton no: VY1000010352

• Sample-2(Grey materrial)
 Alok Industries Ltd(Spinning
Div.) Unit-2
 Packing slip
 100% Cotton Combed yarn
 CTN 64 Comb Comp ROCOS
ORG WVG
 Count: Y00530
 Box: PO10039476
 No of cone: 160
 LOT No: 2LC100026B
 Grade: A
 Gross weight: 429.000 kg

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 Tare weight: 29.000
 Net weight : 400.ooo
 Date: 31.06.2010
 Packed by: PP_VIINODS

Grey yarn receiving from Alok spinning:

2500000

2000000
2353071.39

1500000
2208080.50

RANGE OF QUANTITY
1914381.29

1909833.15
1732692.85

1000000
1465009.29
13 87335.91
1135006.91

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500000

0.00(kg) Aug08 Nov08 Feb09 May09 Jul09 Oct09 Jan10 Apr10 Month

AVERAGE DAILY RAW MATERIAL


CONSUMPTION:

120000

100000

80000
105129.41 kg

113804.31 kg

103197.06 kg
93405.76 kg
95345.27 kg

95345.27 kg

NGE OF QUANTITY

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60000

40000

20000

0.00(kg) Nov09 Dec09 Jan10 Feb10 Mar10 Apr10 MONTH

Quality Assurance

Quality assurance one of the most important dept. in this weaving


section. The raw materials are coming from different companies. The
materials are then checked in this dept. before it sends to different part
in the weaving department. If finds that the raw materials do not satisfy
the standard parameter then that do not run in the loom and returns to
the delivered company. Not only the raw materials, the fabric that
made in the company, also check in this dept. before it sales to
customers. This dept. also makes a checking in the loom running time
and tells different dept. about their faults and makes a solution for they
are:

• Yarn testing (Raw materials checking)


• Fabric testing

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• Running time checking in the loom.

• Yarn testing

Here mainly the raw materials that coming from different sources
are checked and compared with company standard. If satisfies
then run in loom and If not then reject and return. The apparatus
that use for this testing are:

• USTER CLASSIMATE QUANTUM


• USTER TENSOJET 4
• USTER TESTER 5
• ELECTRONIC TWIST TESTER
• AUTOMATIC BOARD WINDER
• SINGLE YARN STRENGTH TEST
• CSP SYSTEM
• WRAP REEL

• USTER CLASSIMATE QUANTUM

Main purpose is to measure the yarn faults. Mainly it is measured by


graphical method. Here mainly two types of graphs one for measuring
the no. of thick and thin places, no. of neps, etc and other is for
different dyed fiber that unnecessarily entangled with yarn. It also

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shows the types of faults. There are two types of dots: green for the
nominal fault an red for untolerable faults.

There is one cone winder machine where maximum 12 cones are


wounded. 100km is wound in one cone for measuring faults. The
winding speed is near about 400-800 rpm. In the time of winding the
fault is optically observed and plotted in graph in this instrument.

OBSERVATION:

LENGTH 50.1km 22.3km


WEIGHT 0.46kg 0.17kg
COUNT 40s 80s
TOTAL NEPS 3449 2903
SHORT THICK 153.7 420
LONG THICK 4 13.7
THIN FAULTS 45.9 276
OBJECTIVE FAULTS 12 67.9
DIFFERENT DYED 45 44
TOTAL FAULTS 3698 3664

400

250

150

12
A B C D
100

F G
45
0.1 1 2 4 8 32

cms

-30

-45
H I

 USTER TENSOJET 4
This is the latest model USTER SINGLE YARN TESTER. This is used
for measuring the single yarn strength, R.K.M.(Resikilometer) &
their variation.
 Testing speed:-100 to 400 Mt/min
 Test method:- ISO 2062, DIN 53834, ASTM D:-1578 JIS
 For 60 count yarn pretension wt 4.92 gram-force, Maxᵐ
Load 2KGF.

 USTER TESTER 5
This is the latest model of USTER EVENNESS TESTER.
This machine is used for measuring the mass variation in the sliver,
roving & yarn also for hairiness index of yarn.
 Testing speed is 25 to 800 Mt/ min.
 Test method:- ISO 53817

 AUTOMATIC BOARD WINDER

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The yarn is wound on the black board with the help of winder machine.
According to the count of the yarn the wraps/inch is decided. The result
are decided by the ASTM method.
Cotton count Tex count Warp ASTM board Pulley set
INCH CMS
1 to 12 590 to 50 20 8 1 A
12 to 24 50 to 25 22 9 2 B
24 to 36 25 to 16 26 10 3 C
36 to 50 16 to 12 32 13 4 D
50 to 75 12 to 8 38 15 5 E
75 to 135 8 to 4 48 19 6 F

ELECTRONIC TWIST TESTER


By the help of this electronic twister simply measured how much twist
present in one inch of yarn .

SINGLE YARN STRENGTH TEST


(STATEX TENSOSTATE - JUNIOR)
♦ Elongation%
♦ Time to break
♦ Tenacity.
♦ Rh corrected tenacity
♦ Load
♦ Rh corrected load

CSP SYSTEM

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By this system mainly different of yarn count strength product
measured.
Purpose:- To determine the count & strength.
Principle:- Works on the principle of constant rate of elongation.
Lot size No of cones No of leas Total no of leas
to prepare
Above 4000 kgs 15 15×2 30
Above 1000 kg to 4000kgs 10 10×3 30
100 kgs to 1000 kgs 5 5×3 15
Less than 100 kgs 2 2×3 6

General Information of machine:- Time: 4 hours, R.H:-65±2% ,


Temp:-27±2°C, Air pressure:- 4kg/m
GSM:
EPI*23.25
Warp =
Warp count(Ne)

PPI*23.25
Weft =
Weft count(Ne)
Therefore
Fabric GSM = Warp GSM + Weft GSM

BY GSM CUTTER:
Cutted fabric is weighted and multiplied by 100
FABRIC TEAR STRENGTH TESTER:
 This instrument is used for testing the tear strength of the
fabric in warp and weft way.

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 Elmatear digital tear tester.
 Used for measuring fabric tear strength.
 Testing capacity – 6400 gms

CONDITIONING SYSTEM:

In the ALOK INDUSTRIES ther is LUWA


conditioning system is used.In the LUWA system there automatic
adjusting the RH% = 65% & Temp = 22 deg.c

CONDITIONING BOX:

The conditioning box is used for conditioning the


material for testing.The conditioning is done at 65% RH & 27 deg.c
temp

DEPARTMENT WISE QUALITY ASSURANCE ACTIVITIES


WARPING:
1.Breakages
 Spinning breaks
 Winding breaks
 Transporting breaks

2.Bottom %: Up to 1.5

3.Yarn tension

4.Beam heardness :60 -70 deg Shore

5.Pattern check for sectional warping

6. Shed checking

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Sizing:
1. Roller heardness

2. Dry cyl.Temp :140 deg.c & Pressure :3.5 bar

3. Saw box temp :90 deg.c

4. Squzze roll pressure : 16 kn

5. Yarn tension in different zone

6. RH %

7. Viscosity

8. Size pick up %

9. Lappers in 3000mt/1000 ends

10. Migration in 3000 mt/1000ends

11. Setting in the different zone

LOOM:
1.Tpes of breaks

2.Fabric effect

3.Fabic width

4.Loom setting

5.Humidity

6.Temparature

7.Efficiency %

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PROCESS CONTROL STUDIES

1.WARPING:

There are two types of warping

 Direct warping
 Sectional warping

The various studies performed in warping are –

 End breakages study


 Performence of yarn
 General observations like humidity,
Machine parameters

2.SIZING:
The various studies performed in Sizin are –

 Stertch,scosity & Size pick-up


 General observations fabrics likes
Temparature,Lapper,Migratory Ends etc.
 Beam heardness checking and its pressure on
each ends

3.WEAVING:
The various studies performed in weaving are –

 Snap round

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 Loom stoppage study
 Quality round in order to check quality of
fabric on running loom.
 Humidity verification

3.FOLDING:
Two activities are being performed in folding depertment

 Mending of fabric
 Grading of fabic

Grading procedure of all fabrics is followed by 4 point American


System.

Grading of fabric is done depending upon the faults present in fabric.

PRODUCTION Planning & control


In PPC or production Planning control section mainly planning is done according
to requirement in the market. The main purposes are:

• Follow up order and delivery on time.


• Commitment of delivery date
• Maintaining forward load
• Micro-Planning i.e. daily planning with weaving preparatory and loom shed.

PROCESS FLOW CHART


Receiving work order from market
Intimation to mkt

Verification of work order

YES Sample required NO

Sample Development Preparation of Production Programme

Approval of G.M (wvg.) 19


Verification YES

Verification for R.M& loom availbility


As shown above flow chart of PPC, after receiving enquiry from market-
the commitment of delivery date is given based upon raw material
availability, loom availability, complexity, reed availability, warping and
sizing. If party is supplying raw material then order is executed within
25 days. And if raw material is not available by party then additional 15
days are required for preparatory.

PRODUCTION PROGRAMME

Production programme for particular sort is made as follows:

PP.no: 103110071568 PP date: 4/6/2010


Sort no.: AW0064348XG SONO: 3026051922/000010
Party: TURTLELIMITED STOP: 5100075252
Construction Reed/pick: 40/1cc COTTON*40/1ccPC 65/35

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Weave : Dobby MCNO:AIRJET_PIC74.8”6CLRDOBY
Picks/inch:80 Shade:
Reed space: 66inch Insetion: 1
Reed: 68/4 Grey width:64”
Meters: 888 SIZ. MTRS: 1003
Delivery Date: 23/06/2010 Desk loom no.:

MATERIAL TYPE KGS/100MTR K


40s/1 CTN COMB BLACK WARP 15.218 135.13
40s/1 CTN COMB DaRKBLUE WEFT 07.797 069.23

In PPC dept. PP is made. PP is the production programme in which all


details of parameters of fabrics required by party is written depend this
the INDENT is made where the necessary materials or amount of
materials required for production

SORT MASTERING
In sort mastering each new design is given new sort number for quick
identification.
Sort no Type of fabrics
10001-19999 100% cotton
20001-29999 Viscose
30001-39999 Pet
40001-49999 Organic cotton
50001-59999 Dyed yarn
60001-69999 Slik fabrics

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WARPING
The main object of this department is to collect a no. of warp ends
from creel & to wind them in to a sheet on doubled flanged beam in
such a manner that the threads are parallel to each other.

PROCESS FLOW CHART


RAW MATERIAL

OPENING OF CURTONS

CREELING

DENTING

LOADING EMPTY BEAM

SETTING OF INFORMATIONNIN PANNEL

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TYING UP OF ENDS ON THE BEAM

STARTING OF THE MACHINE

MACHINE IS STOPPED AFTER COMPLETION OF REQ.LENGTH ON THE BEAM

ENDS ARE CUT

UNLOADING THE FULL BEAM

AFTER COMPLETION BEAMS CREEL ENDS ARE CUT AT THE CREEL & CHANGE

SECTIONAL WARPING

In sectional warping mainly the warping is done sectional where the


warp thread before winding in the beam it wind in a cylinder. So here
winding does not happen directly.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION:-
BEN-TRONIC
• Machine designation:
BEN-TRONIC sectional warping machine.
PRASHANT GAMATEX sectional warping machine.
• Model: movable.
• Creel capacity: Ben-Tronic-960 cones , Prashant Gamatex: 3
m/c:672cones & 2 m/c 720 cones.
• Useful widths: 2200, 2600, 3000,3400,3800,4200 mm.

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• Machine weight: approx 1100 to max 1400 kg.(depending up on
useful width)
• Temp. : 10c-max 40c.
MACHINE DATA:-
• Warping speed: max 800m/min.
• Warping winding tension: 600N.
• Beaming speed: 400m/min.
• Beaming winding tension: 1500N (min 100N)
VERSOMAT:-

• Make: BENNINGER
• Creel capacity: 480 cones.
• Tensioner: Disc type tensioner.
• Sensor: electrical sensor.
• Max speed: 800mt/min.
• Drum width: 2200mm.

CALCULATION:-

• Total no of ends=7068
• EPI×PPI=108×100
pattern No.of ends total
A 120 3540
B 30 900
C 30 888
D 30 870
E 30 870

• no of section: total no of ends/total pattern ends=7068/240=29.5

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• Total no of section=29
• 1 section0f 108 ends
• Section width=total pattern end/E.P.I=240/108=2.22

MAN POWER IN SECTIONAL WARPING:-

• 1 operator/machine/shift.
• 1 jobber boy/machine/shift
• 3 creel boy/2 machine/shift

DIRECT WARPING MACHINE:


MACHINE:-

In direct warping the warp thread directly wind in a beam from the
creel. Here no need of any other cylinder before winding.
GENERAL INFORMATION:-

• Machine name: BENNINGER BEN-DIRECT beaming machine.


KARLMAYER – DIRECT beaming machine.
• Type of creel:- V-type creel.
• Total no of machine:- 8(BENNINGER)+2(KARLMAYER)
• Capacity of creel:- 720-1088
• Tensioner:- pre tensioning rod (The tension is given by adjusting the
distance between the 2 rods. The distance setting is 8mm.)
• Labour per m/c: 1

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TECHNICAL INFORMATION:-

• Machine designation:- BENNINGER BEN-DIRECT beaming machine.


• Model:-stationary.
• Useful width:-
ZS 1800, 1600, 2200, 2400mm.
ZS 1400, 1800 , 2200, 2400, 2600, 2800mm.
• Machine weight:3500kg
• Air pressure: min 5bar- max. 8bars.
• Air consumption: approx 3m3/h at min. 5 bars
• Permissible ambient temp: min 10 c-max 40 c
• Ceiling height: Min 3000 mm.
• Distance from m/c to creel : Min 4000mm
MACHINE DATA:-
• Operating speed : 300-1200m/min
• Crawl speed: max 200 m/min
• Overall yarn tension: max 450 N
• Beam weight : 1250 kg
• Maximum beam dia.: ZS 800:813mm,ZS1000:1016mm
• Braking moment: Max 16000 Nm
• Clamping device:9000N
• Pressure device: 200-600 daN

GENERAL OBSERVATION:-

M/C no NAME SPEED PRESSURE CREEL ENDS COUNT WIDHT

1 BEN- 6oom/min 300 dan 1088 1028 60s 220cm


DIRECT

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2 BEN- 250m/min 330dan 1088 936 60s 220cm
DIRECT
3 BEN- 600m/min 250dan 1088 1074 60s 220cm
DIRECT
4 BEN- 800m/min 200dan 1088 976 40s 220cm
DIRECT
5 BEN- 800m/min 200dan 1088 1076 60s 220cm
DIRECT
6 BEN- 300m/min 250 dan 1088 1018 60s 187cm
DIRECT
7 BEN- 650m/min 200dan 1088 966 80s 220cm
DIRECT
8 BEN- 900m/min 550dan 720 558 20s 187cm
DIRECT
9 KARL 700m/min 300dan 680 595 40s 187cm
MAYER
10 KARL 800m/min 6oodan 720 648 20s 187cm
MAYER

CALCULATION:-

No of ends=Reed space × reed count


Total length L=A+13%+50mt

Where,

A=length in sizing
13%=this is considered shrinkage
50mt=this is considered as sizing waste

Waste planning:-

13%extra=30 count

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15%extra=20count
20%extra=below 20count

TYPE OF FAULTS:-

• Slubs.
• Foreign matter.
• Thin places.
• Thick places.
• Bad piecing
• Bunch.
• Slough off- packing fault.

MAN POWER DIRECT WARPING:-

1 supervisor/shift
1 operator/machine/shift
16creel boy/shift
1 fitter/shift
6helpers for beam carrier

WARPING:-
100 HOUR: Cleaning
Monthly:- Greasing, oiling.
3 Weekly:- Cleaning, checking attain major problem.
Cleaning is done by blow air of different parts as follows
Complete machine

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Wind air
Guide roll
Pressure roll
Terapezoidal threaded assembly
Limit switch assembly
Checking:- Oil level of hydrolic
Screw connections
Drive belts
Beam position
Cylinder pressing device
Comb traverse Device
Oiling & greasing of all moving parts.

Sizing department
The main object of sizing to improve the weavability of the fabric by
increasing the strength of the yarn using size paste. The strength of the
yarn is increased up to 25%. The other purpose is to reduce the
hairiness of the yarn and make the warp as a warp sheet.
PROCESS FLOW CHART
Warpers beam

Loading creel beams

Leasing

Denting

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Loading empty weavers beam

Setting of information in panel

Tying up of Ends on the beam

Starting of the machine

Machine is stopped after completion of req. length

Ends are cut

Unloading the full beam

General information
• Make: Benninger zell
• Model: Bensizetec, synchro 4
• Maximum Creel capacity: 24
• No of Machines: 9(normal width=3, wider width=4, sectional=2)
• Country : Germany
• Type of creel: magazine creel
• Creel breaks: breaks stripes with pistons
• Beam break: hydrolic
• Double size box: for more than 55 warp cover factor it uses to
better size.
Mechanical information
• No. of sow boxes: 2
• Size roll: 2+2

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• Type of sow box: 2 dip 2 nip
• Moisture control: PLEAVA RIB
• Microprocessor: SIEMENS TOUCH
• No of drying cylinders: 8 per drying cylinders, 4 main drying
cylinders. Teflon coating is on drying cylinders to avoid sticking of
ends.
• Drying cylinder pressure:3.5 bar
• Wax box: to improve the softness & reduce hairiness of the yarn.
• Leasing zones: diameter of bigger lease rod=60mm & small lease
• rod = 35 mm
• Pneumatic beam pressing system.
• Beam pressing roll: length=340 cm, Diameter=8 cm
• Sizing level = 140mm

Motor & Power Consumption

• Exhaust fan : 2.2 kw


• Compressor: 4 kw
• Head stock down in device: 7.2 kw
• Cylinder drive motor:7.2 kw
• Squeezing roller(2): 6.3kw
• Draw in device: 0.75 kw
• Beam doffing device:0.18 kw
• Warp taping device: 0.11 kw
• Comb: 0.12kw
• Waxing device: 0.18 kw
• Immersion roller: 0.25 kw

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• Fan motor: 0.26kw
• Brake and clutch: 3.5kw

Tension in different zones


• Creel: 703kn
• Saw box1-2: 329kn
• Saw box- dry cyl=112kn
• Leasing : 3598kn
• Beam pressing= 4790 kn

Mixing recipe is done in

• Cold mixer
• Cooker
• Storage
• Cooking time:1hr
• Sow box: 14 inches
• No. of cold mixer:3(no.1=1000lt, 2,3=2000lt)
• No. of storage tank:8

Preparation of size paste


• The ingredients to be used in the sort are taken to the mixing
room and they are weighed
• The required water level is taken in the size mixer.

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• First starch and PVA are taken and it is mixed with water and cold
stirring is done for 10-15 min.
• This paste of water and starch is passed to cooker where the
steam is injected to this paste and hot cooking is done for 13 min.
• After 30min the temp. is kept around 100 -110 .
• Then this mixture is passed into storage tank where softener is
added and then continuous cooking is done as per the req.
• If there is a blend or synthetic material is there then add antistatic
agents.
• Example of ratio of ingradiant:

Count Nippa soft Super size Elavanol water


20Ne 150kg 22.5kg 4kg 22kg
60 Ne 100kg 12kg 15kg 17kg
Maintenance of the sizing

1. Monthly maintenance: greasing & oiling


• Cleaning:
 Complete machine
 Waxing trough
 Arbor screw
 Pneumatic control
• Checking:
 Safety equipment
 V-belt condition
 Nipping impression
 Leveling of saw box
• Oiling & greasing:

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Arbor screw shaft
All points of drying cylinder
Chain of positive drive
Tensioner of positive drive
Screw shaft of immersion roller
All bearing

2. Weekly maintenance:
• Cleaning:
 Complete machine by blowing air
 Saw box by hot water
 Pneumatic control cabinets
 Electrical control cabinets
• Checking:
 Pressure gauge of steam line
 Working of all steam traps cylinder
 Spiral cable of handy
 Leakage of air from all pneumatic line

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Man power of the sizing

• 1sizer, 1 back sizer/machine/shift (for normal width)


• 1sizer, 2 back sizer/machine/shift (for wider width)
• 1 supervisor/shift
• 1 shift in charge
• 2 data operator/shift
• 2 set ladder
• 1 mixing supervisor
• 1mixing man/ shift
• 3 helpers/shift

Auto Drawing in
Technical information

• Made : Stabuli
• Model : Delta 110
• No of machine: 5
• Performance:
 Drawing in capacity: upto 3-4 warps in 8 hr
 Drawing speed: 100/140 ends/min
 Over all performance depend upon: M/C specification,
count, no. of yarn ends/ warp, etc.
• Max warp width: 230 cm
• Flange dia: max 1200 mm
• No of warp beam:1

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• Heald width :2.2/2.5/5.5 mm
• Heald length: 260-382
• Heald thickness: 0.23-0.38 mm
• Heald type : simplex and complex
• No. of frames: max 20

Beam knotting
If on the loom there is same quality is running then the new beam is
knotted with the running beam.
• Made: Staubli
• Model: topmatic
• Speed :500 ends/ min
• Time required: upto 1 hr
• No. of workers: 2

Beam gaiting
• Tying frame trolley is used to tear beam drawing in dept. to loom
shed.
• Manufacturer: to do company

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• No of workers for gaiting: 4
• Time required: 1- 1.30 hr

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WEAVING DEPARTMENT

The objective of weaving is to produce fabric by the interlacement of


warp and weft. The other object is to produce defect free fabric by
using the suitable mechanisms.

There are mainly 9 units in weaving dept. The loom distributes in that
dept. are as follows:
UNIT WIDTH NO. OF TYPE OF M/C
LOOM LOOM MANUFACTURER

1 Wider 80 Airjet Picanol


2 wider 80 Airjet Picanol
3 Wider & 52 Airjet Toyota
normal 12 Jacquard Optimax
16 Jacquard Sulzer
Sample Normal 4 Rapier Optimax
8 Sulzer
4 Normal 32 Airjet Picanol
40 Rapier Gamamax
30 Rapier Sulzer
5 Wider 144 Airjet Picanol
6 Normal 76 Airjet Toyota
228 Airjet Picanol
7 Wider 152 Airjet Picanol
38 Totota
8 Normal 12 Airjet Toyota
76 Rapier Vamatex
9A Wider 12 Airjet Toyota
16 Airjet Tsudakoma
104 Airjet Picanol
9B Normal 84 Airjet Toyota

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9C Normal 80 Airjet Toyota
9D Normal 110 Rapier Optimax

The looms that find in this dept. is mainly two type according to
shedding:

AIRJET LOOM: Here weft is inserted by air that comes from the nozzle.

RAPIER LOOM: Here weft is mainly inserted bythe rapier assembly.


Here mainly tip to tip transformation is occurred.

Process flow chart


Weavers beam

Drawing in

Creeling weavers beam

Beam knotting/gaiting

Loading the empty cloth roll

Setting of information in panel

Tying up of ends on the cloth roll

Starting of the machine

Machine is stopped after competition of req. length wound

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Cut the fabric & unload the cloth roll

General information

PICANOL AIRJET

• Name: Picanol Air jet


• Model: Omni plus
• Width: 190 cms (Normal), 340 cms(wider)
• Speed:850 rpm
• Cam & Dobby: Staubli
• Heald shaft capacity: 6
• Delivary : single

• Air pressure requirement:


 Oil free: 0.05-0.01ppm.
 Dew point at maximum 2 .
 Air pressure in supply line most is at least 7 bar.

• Pre winder:
 Name : Picanol Omni 2231 plus
 Model no.: IRO 2231 P19.3.
 Total pressure capacity: 2
 Heald wire details: 331mm-j type
 Eye size: 8*2.5mm
• Drop pin detail:

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 Dimension: 165mm*11mm*0.5mm
 Weight: 0.5 grms per drop pin
• Production: 680m/day/loom (appx)
• Model:
 False Selvage Cutter: B161126
 Main nozzle: Picanol BE300623
 Filling detector: BE 154883
 Filling detector sensor: BE157859

• Various mechanism:
 Let off.: Positive let off. Motor is used. A gear provide
motion from one side to another.
 Shedding : open shed.
 Shed left angle: 24
 Shed height: depends on quality, mainly counts.
 Cams are used for shedding. Staubli co. positive
shedding max 86 heald shafts with leaving cam.
 Picking: Airjet
 Profile reed and relay nozzles are used. Main nozzles
auxiliary nozzle, relay nozzles are used.
 Main nozzle: 2
 Auxiliary nozzle: 2
 Relay nozzle: 14 groups (28 relay nozzle, 26 relay valve)
 Filling detector: 2
• Nozzle:
 Main nozzle: Picanol BE 300623=2
 Auxiliary nozzle: 2
 Relay nozzle: 14 groups

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 Stretch nozzle: 1
 Distance between main and auxiliary nozzle: 100 mm
• Pressure:
 Main nozzle: 7 bar
 Auxiliary nozzle: 5-8 bar
 Relay nozzle left: 9 bar
 Relay nozzle right: 9 bar

• Timing of nozzle:
 Main nozzle: 85 -20
 Auxiliary nozzle: 85 -20
 Stretch nozzle: 245 -31

• Loom shed:
 Department RH%: 84+/- 2
 Air pressure: 7 bar
 Shed crossing: 299 +/-3
 ELSY crossing: 1 LH=300 +/-3 2LH299 +/-3
 By ELSY leno is formed

• Observation:

Sr no. Warp Weft Warp Weft Reed Reed Total Picking Grey Size rpm
cont count blend blend space no. of width pick
ends up%

13641 60S 60S 100% 100% 116/3 129 22416 110 126 9.2 525
SZB CTN CTN CTN CTN

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15795 80 80 100% 100% 80/5 107 21200 93 104 13.7 500
A COMB COMB CTN CTN
CTN CTN

TOYOTA AIRJET

• Name: Toyota Air jet


• Model: Jat710, Jat610
• Width: 180 cms (Normal), 340 cms(wider)
• Speed:700 rpm(avg)
• Type: profile reed & relay nozzle.
• Technical specification: Staubli cam& Dobby, Electronic shedding.

• Various mechanism:
 Let off.: Positive let off with motor
 Shedding : open shed.
 Shed left angle: 32
 Shed height: depends on quality, mainly counts.
 Cams are used for shedding.
 Picking: profile reed & relay nozzle
 Take up: positive take up with motor.
• Capacity of cam : 16 heald frame
• Capacity of E shedding: 16 heald frame
• Maximum haeld shaft: 16
• Selvage: leno+false selvedge.
• Leno: 2 polyester+ textured yarn at both
• Nozzle:
 Main nozzle: 2

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 Tandom nozzle: 2,to pass yarn from weft accumulater
 Relay nozzle:30,
• Relay nozzle: First 26 nozzle have distance of 26, last four are
40mm. Every 4 nozzle connect with one valve where as last one
have 2 nozzles.

• Motor used :
 Main motor
 Let off motor
 Take up motor
 Leno assembly
 E shedding motor
 For LH cutter motor
 Pre winder motor

• Observation:

Sr no. Warp Weft Warp Weft Reed Reed Total Picking Grey Size rpm
cont count blend blend space no. width pick
of up%
ends
62676 40S 40S 100% 100% 108/2 66 8510 80 66 5.3 452
CTN CTN CTN CTN

10813 60 60 100% 100% 86/2 66 5868 88 64 18.3 500


COMB COMB CTN CTN
CTN CTN

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SULZER RAPIER JAQUARD

• Name: Sulzer Rapier Jacquard


• Model: G6300
• Speed : 280 rpm
• Weft accumulater: iro luna
• Temples : Fire ring temples
• Selvedge : plain
• Shedding: Jacquard STABULI
• Time of knotting: 3hr
• Downtime: 6 hr
• Type of rapier: Flexible rapier
• Special feature: Double beam
• Beat up: 0
• Shade crossing: 320
• Shade angle: 32
• Central lubrication: oil

• Observation:

Sr no. Warp Weft Warp Weft Reed Reed Total Picking Grey Size rpm
cont count blend blend space no. of width pick
ends up%

JQ680 60S 60S 100% 100% 84/4 126.6 10640 50 122 27.8 278
SZB CTN CTN CTN CTN

JQ6797 60 80 100% 100% 68/5 125 10600 104 122 18.3 270
COMB COMB CTN CTN
CTN CTN

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PICANOL RAPIER JAQUARD

• Name: Picanol Jacquard


• Model: Optimax
• Speed : 280 rpm
• Weft accumulater: LGl progress vector
• Working principle: Electro magnetic
• Type of reed: plain 84/4
• Temples : Fire ring temples
• Selvedge : plain
• Shedding: Jacquard STABULI
• Time of knotting: 3hr
• Downtime: 6 hr
• No. of Hooks: 2488
• Type of rapier: Flexible rapier

Sr no. Warp Weft Warp Weft Reed Reed Total Picking Grey Size rpm
cont count blend blend space no. of width pick
ends up%

JQ785 60S 80S 100% 100% 68/5 125 21200 104 122 20% 278
CTN CTN CTN CTN

JQ807 60 60 100% 100% 68/5 125 21200 114 122 25% 280
COMB COMB CTN CTN
CTN CTN

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MAINTAINANCE

FOR RAPIER- JACQUARD LOOM

• CLEANING:
 All types of belt by opening cover.
 Leno assembly
 Heald frame/heald wires & harness for Jacquard.
 Drop pin & contact bars
 Reed & Sley
 RH & LH gripper
 Tample & ITS ring

• CHEAKING: OIL LEVEL CHEAKING ON THE GIVEN POINTS


 Main tank
 Take-Up & Let-off
 Dobby & Jacquard gear box
 Leno & weft selsctor
 Lubrication pad of ribbon

• GREASING:
 At Sley
 Back Rest
 Beam BKT
 Heald frame connecting liver brush

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 Load cell
 Dobby leaver gear
• OILING:
 Dobby leaver bearing
 Cloth roll
 Weft cutter

FOR AIRJET LOOM

• CLENING:
 Leno Assembly
 Heald fream/Heald wire
 Drop pin & contact bar
 Reed/Sley
 Pre-winder
 Main cutteer & selvedge cutter
 Temples
 Dobby liver & Under motion liver
• CHEAKING:
o OIL LEVEL CHEAKING AT THE FOLLOWING POINTS
 Main Tank
 Central lubrication
 Dobby
o Cloth roll drive & ITS chain
o All types of air & pipes
o All relay valve & main valve

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• GREASING:

GREASING AT THE FOLLOWING POINTS

 Whip roll-4
 Whip roll BKT-2
 Cloth roll-2
 Sley-2
 Dobby Under motion-2
 Let-off gear-1
 Liver-16

• OILING:
 Oiling on Under motion liver
 Oiling on heald frame connecting rods

• NOZZLE CHECKING PROCESS:


 Solution of water & EG liquid
 Switch on the machine
 Set time by press meter
 Adjust and set the temp.
 Press heat button
 When time up it automatically stop
 Now clean the nozzle with dry cloth

Main nozzle Relay valve Relay nozzle


Time 50min 50min 60min

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Temp. 40 40 50

• Lubricant use:

For airjet & rapier

Position Oil no Amouny/year(lit)


Main gear 150 2.5
Let off & take off gear 460 2.5
Let off & take off bar 100 1
Cam box(610) 320 4-4.5
Cam box(710) 320 6-7
Auto leveling 46 0.5

For jacquard

Position Oil no Amouny/year(lit)


Selector 150 1
Main tank 460 2.5
Jacquard gear box 100 20
Leno device 150 0.5
Jacquard greasing After 3 months

• Man power in weaving


o 10 looms/weaver
o 06 looms/weaver
o Around 40 looms/ supervisor
o 1 knotter/80 looms
o 2dressers/80 looms
o 1 maintaince/shift
o 2 shift incharge

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ON LINE LOOM MONITORING STOP CODES:
11 Knotting
12 Gaiting
13 Repairing
14 Maintenance
15 Reed Change
16 Quality Setting
17 Chindi Checking
18 Design Approval
19 Sizing problem
20 No Beam
21 No Weft
22 Electronic Fault
23 Wait For Gaiting
24 Wait For knotting
25 Patteren Correction
26 Redenting
27 Pressure Down
28 Others

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Different light for indication:

PICANOL

• White light on: electrical problem


• Red light on: breaking of warp
• Red light on-off: beam was end, knoter have to knotting
• Yellow light on: breaking of weft
• Green light on: hand stop
• Green light on-off: end of production of req. length
• Red+yellow on: warp & weft break
• Yellow+green on: creel is end
• Red + green on: when leno or catch cord is broken
• Red + green+ yellow: bobbin brakage, feeling stop, warp
breakage.

Toyota

• White light on: hand stop


• Red light on: breaking of warp
• Yellow light on: breaking or fault leno wire.
• Green light on: weft yarn break
• white light on-off: end of production of req. length
• Red+green on: warp & weft break, break of catch cord
• white+green on: creel is end
• Red+white + green on: bobbin is broken
• green+ yellow: leno breakage, feeling stop,

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Inspection & packing
After weaving the fabric is inspected in this dept. to find out the fault in
the fabric. After inspection the fabric is gradified into 7 classes. Then it
packs and export in market. In this dept. there are 18 machine for
normal width and 10 for wider width. The basic tasks are:
• Inspection
• Folding
• Packing

Inspection
Here mainly Four Point American System is applied for inspection. The
method of inspection is:
• Loom beam is fitted
• Fabric is passed through guide roller
• Reach in checking zone
• First check width, EPI & PPI
• Then other problems are checked
• There is a check meter to measure the length
• The report is record in report card where sort no, loom no, count
etc is written.
• The whole fabric is checked.
• Then fabric is gradified.

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M/C Diagram:

Checking
device

beam

54
Path of yarn Guide roller
Inspection system
In this dept. mainly Four Point American system is used.

Sr.no Damage length Point count


1.0 weft wise
1.1 01
1.2 02
1.3 03
1.4 04
2.0 warp wise
2.1 04
3.0 Partial Defect
3.1 02

Note:
• All color foreign matter should be removed
• All partial defect more than 5mm should be cut.

II quality/ grading(for minimum 5mm should be cut)

Points per piece Points per shipment


15 points/1oo sq mtr 12 points/100sq mtr

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Gradation system
There are mainly 7 grade for fabric. They are:
Grade Pts/100sq Pts/100lnr Pts/100lnr Fabric length
mtr mtr(normal) mtr (wider)
A 15 24 45 >=20 mtr(d)
>=40 mtr(e)
B 22 35 67 >=20 mtr

C 31.25 50 95 >=20 mtr

D No bar No bar (>1 No bar (>5 >=1 mtr-=<10


mtr-<10 mtr mtr->20 mtr) mtr
E No bar No bar (>1 No bar (>1 >=11 mtr-
mtr-<10 mtr) mtr->5 mtr) <20mtr
F All No bar All >20 mtr
continuous continuous
defect defect
G 47 75 Nil >20 mtr

All remaining qualities less than for 1 mtr as follow


Market length Packing

Chindi 0-25 cm Kg

Fents 25-99 cm kg

Formula: total points*39.37*100*total mtr/width=points/100 sq mtrs.

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Name of faults that measure:
COVER SPINNING WEAVING PARTIAL DEFECT
FAULT FAULT
Bumping Coarsepick Ball formation, Crack
Reediness Chocked yarn Black stain Hole
Neppines Color containing Broken end Float
Unevenness count Variation Broken pick Knotting
Hazyness dirty end Bump mark Multiple
Streakiness double weft Broken pattern breakage
Kitty level high twist yarn, Design change Rust stain
knots, neps Design cut Sizing/c stop
moire effect, Double end Tear drop
oily effect Double pick stitches
slub Double weft
slubby effect Fine end
uneven weft Hanging thread
three ply Starting mark
coarse end Thin place
Thickplace
Knots
Lasing in
Leno cut
Less width
Missing end
Nozzle mark
Oily stain
Pulled warp
Reed cut
Short pick
Sizing prob.
Etc.

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Packing
After inspection, packing is done the steps of packing are:
• Material stag on a moving plate
• Move to wrapper plate & wrapped with plastic
• Blade cut excess plastic
• Punched to next plate where an air suction is done to brief
packing
• Next heat(150 is given to brief packing.
• Final packing is done

Information written on delivery package:


• Roll no=
• Piece no.=
• Meter
• Weight in kg=
• Grade=
• Delivery=
• Party name=
• Sort no=
Information written on the order slip:
• Sort no=
• Party no=
• Delivery order=
• Address of party=
• Deliver date=
• Transport type=

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Packing is done in 3 color plastic: white for grade A,B, green for
organic, Red for C,D,E,F
KNITTING
Knitting is the production of fabric by forming loops with yarn, which
are interlaced in a variety of ways to form the fabric. Traditional hand
knitting , using knitting needles or pins is thought to have existed as
early as the 5th century, although other simpler techniques of inter
meshing and knotting of yarns existed much earlier.
There are mainly two types of knitting:
 weft knitting: the loop formed across the weft.
 warp knitting: the loop formed across the warp.
Here mainly weft knitting machine is shown.

Process flow chart


In knitting mainly a loop form. The other yarn passes through that loop
and knitting is occurred. A cam is there which provide the needle
motion. In this needle the weft is passed. The yarn path shown below:
Package

Passing through aluminum stick

Then passes through coni.

Then it fed through feeder

Then it come into needle & loop form

The needle reciprocated according to design by the cam

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Fabric is produce

General information
• No. of Machine:
 Single jourcy=87
 Double jourcy=83
 Jacquard=9
 Flat bed= 17
• Manufacturer : Pai lung, Mayer&cie, Kaeo Heng
• Production: 300 kg/machine/day
• Doffing: after 20000 revulution.
Single jourcy m/c:
• Diameter: 30”
• Gauge : 24
• Feeder use: 90
• Rpm: 28
• Coni rpm :25
• Roll weight: 25 kg
• Conter: 1000
• GSM: 196
Inter lock, double jourcy m/c:
• Diameter: 30
• Gauge: 24
• Feeder: 96
• Rpm: 36
• Coni rpm : avg45
• Roll wt. : 25 kg

60
• Conter :2065
• GSM: 154
Rib, double jourcy m/c:

• Diameter: 30
• Gauge: 18
• Feeder: 72
• Rpm: 34
• Coni rpm : avg15
• Roll wt. : 25 kg
• Conter :2329
• GSM: 172
Jacquard knitting m/c:

• Diameter: 30( single jourcy) ,30(double jourcy)


• Gauge: 24(single jourcy), 20( double jourcy)
• Feeder: 92
• Rpm: 30
• Coni rpm :30
• Roll wt. : 25 kg
• Conter :2450
• GSM: 165
• Jacquard: it is use for rapid repeat & a wide repeat.

Flat knitting:
• Used for make collers and cough of t-sirt
• Latch needle is used
• Maximum width produce: 48”

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Quality assurance activities
• GSM testing
• Fabric testing
• Stitch lengths
Feed yarn is 1st tested and then dispatched for bulk

Maintaince activity
• Cleaning and setting of m/c: for cotton800000rev, 1600000rev.
• At the time of cleaning cam, needle, dial, gear, shaft everything is
cleaned and clean with oil.
• Oil level is checking.
• There is three fan to remove cotton fly from yarn.

Inspection and checking


After the fabric is produce the fabric go to inspection dept. for final
checking. The yarn fault is checked according to there wt. the measure
fault that check in the dept is:
• Holes
• Press off
• Needle line
• Oil line
• Thick and thin place line

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• Lycra jump
• Pin hole
• Lycra line
• Oil drop
• Shade variation
• White spot
• Yarn cut
• Loop cut
The fabric is then graded in three class.
• Class A= 5 defect/25kg
• Class B= 10defect/25kg
• Rejected=more than10 defect/25 kg
The fabric is then packed. In red pack for sample, white pack for A
grade, and yellow for B grade fabric.

63
CP & POY department

CP (Continuous polymerization)

In this dept. mainly polymer chip is produced. Here polymerization is


mainly done. Polymerization mainly that process where mainly the
monomer is converted into a higher mol. Wt. polymer to pr. Wt.
polymer to produce yarn.

Procedure:

The main raw materials for this process is PTA(poly Teripthelic acid),
and MEG(Mono ethylic glycol). The PTA is found in form of liquid or
solid and MEG is in liquid from. The PTA stores in a large tank call PTA
day bin and MEG is in a small tank. Now this two are mixed at a ratio of
2:1 and form a slurry which in a high temp. converted into a paste of
this two ingredients. Now this paste makes a reaction. This reaction is
an ESTERIFICATION reaction. Here the paste is esterified and as a
product H2O is produced. Then the esterifies paste react with SB2O3.
Now it forms 25% low polymer. This Low polymer at last at vacuum
condition at a temp. of 290 it produce final polymer. Then filtration
is done. Then this is converted directly into the POY by melt spinning
process or into small polymer chips.

64
Some important information about this process:
 This process is mainly 3 reaction: Esterification, UFPP, Finshing
 TiO2 is used here as adhesive.
 Sb2O3 is used here as catalyst
 The whole process is done at a temp of 280-290
 The whole process is done under pressure
 The whole process is controlled by the 7 operating consoles with
automatic microprocessor controlled.

The raw materials are received from this company:


 Paras alloys and Salts
 Indian oxide and chemicals
 Hongcong hauchang antimony chmical
 Sachtleben holding A.S
 Agrofort holding A.S
 Saudi basic industries Corp.
 Losa industries ltd
 Mitsui & co. ltd.
 Reliance industries ltd.

Daily production of this CP= 540 tons.

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POY DEPARTMENT
• POY (Partially Oriented Yarn) is produced from polymer chips.
• Wet chip hopper:-3kg air pressure also to store the chips for
further process. It also has waste collector system containing
microdust and impurities coming from continuous polymer.
• Vibro feeder:- It is having functions of feeding the reserve chips
kept in hopper.
• Crystallizer:-It drives the chips and remove microdust particles.
• Chips column:- The temperature in the column is around 265° C
and kept for 6 hours and hence it is maintained.
• Dry chip hopper:-From chip column the dry process is done in this
hopper.
• Extruder hopper:- Here chips are melt at 295°C. It has 6 zones
called as manifold. Separate motor is provided for every zone.
• Polymer filter:-It removes dust and clean the polymer chips.
• Spinning floor:-Coolling filament through perforated board.
• Oil pump:-To oil the yarn surface to reduce static change &
microbal attack.

• PASSAGE:-Duct coming from CP department having melted


chips 350°C- polymer cooler- cooling the melted chip-polymer
booster- for further process high pressure boosting pump is
provided with higher capacity motor.

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In this POY department has two unit.

• IN UNIT 1

Total line:- 10 (Each lines consists of 24 heads)


A single line of TMT winder 6 heads each head having 12 feeder from
where 12 package wound.
4×6=24×12=288 Package is being produced.
Each package have weight of 10.2 kg.
Remaining 9 line block having 8 heads each head having 10 feeder from
where 10 package wound.
3×8=24×10=240×9=2160 Package is being produced.
Each package have weight of 15 kg.
M/c Manufacturer-Beijing chonglee (China).
Production calculation:
Actual speed of spool× Actual denier× no of position
×60/(9000×1000)=_______kg/hr.
Spindle Speed- 2500m/min LOY(Low Oriented Yarn)
2500-4000m/min POY(Partially Oriented Yarn)
4000-7500m/min FOY(Fully Oriented Yarn)
Production per day of POY department- 150 metric ton

• IN UNIT 2

Total no of lines:- 12
single line of having 6 heads each head having 10 feeder from where 10
package wound
4×6=24×10=240×12=2880 Package is being produced.

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Production-350 metric ton/day.
M/c Manufacturer- Barmag(Germany)
M/c Name- Wings
Higher denier yarn is being produced in this department.

• QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT (POY)


In this quality assurance department mainly tested tensile strength,
elongation%, draw force, evenness & cross section of Partially Oriented
Yarn.

(1) TENSILE TESTING OF YARN


Purpose:- Determination of elongation% & Tenacity of POY.
Principle:- Operating on the principle of constant rate of elongation.
Appatratus:- STATIMAT ME & Yarn strength tester.

• General Information of machine


(a) Gauge length 250 mm
(b) Test speed 1000mm/min
(c) Pretension 0.5 CN/tex
(d) Drop of force 90%
(e) Compressed air pressure- 5bar
(f) Temperature of the lab 25°C to 32°C

(2) DRAW TENSION TESTING OF YARN


Purpose:- Determination of draw tension of POY
Principle:- Measuring of yarn draw tension at constant extension &
speed.

68
Apparatus:- DTI 500

General Information of machine


(a) Feed rate 170m/min
(b) Test length 170m
(c) Draw ratio1.70
(d) Heating tube temperature 185°C
(e)Compressed air pressure= 6 bar
(f) Temperature of lab 25°C to 32°C
(3) EVENNESS TESTING OF YARN
Purpose:- Testing of linear density(Unevenness) of POY.
Principle:- when a yarn sample passes through capacitance testing slot,
quality change (variation in linear density) is transformed to
corresponding electric signal.
Apparatus:- Keisokki KET80 Type C
General Information of machine:-
(a) Test speed 200m/min
(b) Range±12.5%
(c) Evaluation time =1 min
(d) Compressed air pressure =4 bar
(e)Temperature of lab 25°C to 32°C

Gradation Norms For POY As Per Weight Range


Beijing Chonglee Winders
Existing Proposed
Serial no Grade Wt. range in kg Wt. range in kg
1 1E 14.5kg to 15.2 kg 14.5kg to 15.2kg
2 1A 10kg to 14.449kg 10kg to 14.449kg
3 1M 3kg to 9.999kg 5kg to 9.999kg

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4 SS 500gm to 2.999kg 3 kg to 4.999kg
5 CLQ 200gm to 499gm 500 gm to 2.999kg
TMT Winders
Existing Proposed
Serial no Grade Wt. range in kg Wt. range in kg
1 1E 10.5kg to 14.250kg 9.750kg to 10.5 kg
2 1A 5 kg to 10.449kg 7 kg to 9.749kg
3 1M 2kg to 4.999kg 5kg to 6.999kg
4 SS 500gm to 1.999kg 3kg to 4.999kg
5 CLQ 200gm to 499 gm 500gm to 2.999kg

FINISHING MATERIAL (POY) FLOW DIAGRAM


POY 1 POY 2
T/UP Denier Checking T/UP

Textile lab
Packing Scheduled Testing Packing

Visual Inspection 100% Visual Inspection 100%

Grade wise/Denier wise Grade wise/Denier wise


Pin trolly Fillings Pin trolly Fillings

Weighment Weighment

Strapping Strapping

70
Polymer

GP

Spinneret

Condition Air

Finish Guide

PigTail Guide

Guide 2

Intermingale
line Guide 1

Winder

POY MACHINE DIAGRAM


DIAGRAM

71
TEXTURISING
Texturising is a process of providing an artificial crimp to man-made
fibre to impart properties somewhat similar to natural twist fibres, it
can be provided by melt spinning in continuation by passing it from
crimping machines. It may be gear crimp or false twist texturising. It is a
method of marking the PET yarn wearable. End product of POY is POY
yarn wound on spool the weight varies from 10.5kg-22kgs. The yarn is
very lustrous and not at all comfortable for wearing. It generates static
charges and air permeability of those fabrics is very poor. Here in this
machines the output is made up from the bulk out of flat continuous
POY yarn and termed as Draw Textured Yarn. And this bulk is formed by
spindle running at 850-1000 rpm having 3 discs in zigzag manner. The
flat polyester yarn have covalent linkage with luster is removed by
heater.

THE MATERIAL FLOW CHART

Creel (Spool) Guide Rod Primary Heater(150 -250 )

V2 rod Spindle(disc), (850-1000rpm) Cooling Plate

Air pressure inlet chamber for punching(4.2bar) V4 shaft Internediator

Outlet roller Secondary heater(150 -190 V3 shaft

72

package
Oil roller Guide Package Drum bakelite
GENRAL INFORMATION

There are total 92 machines divide in 4 units in the company.

• Unit1- 36 machines
• Unit2- 16 machines
• Unit3 - 24machines
• Unit4- 24 machines (Auto Doffing)

Machines are mainly manufactured by these companies:

• HIMSON – Bhogibhai
• HIMSon – Devananadbhai
• Alidhra- Hansrajbhai
• Alidhra- Babubhai
• Barmarg- China
• Murata- Japan
• Himson- Autodoffing

TECHNICAL DATA

Machine Setting

Throughout speed 750 mpm


Draw Ratio 1.715L 1.715R
D/y Ratio 1.52
Jet over feed 4.15%
Stabilizing overfeed 6%
Oil shaft speed 1.8mpm

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Travers speed 375
Temp Primary:200 Secondary:185
Machine data

Machine no. D-Tex 15 D-Tex 7


Manufacturer HIMSON Alidhra
POY denier 250/48 130/34
Spinner Alok Alok
Merge no. 220681 108118
DTY denier 150/48 75/34
Lot no 10555 10624
Doff time 6.2hr 13 hr
Doff wt. 5.3kg 5.3kg
Paper tube color Blue-black strip Blue
No. of spindle : 312-336 for manual Doffer, for auto doffer 216

PRODUCTION DATA

Calculation

Production=(0.00016*m/c speed*denier* no.of spindle)

Production Chart

performance target Last month Best achived


Hall1A Hall1B Hall1A Hall1B Hall1A Hall1B
production 1617.5 1816.8 1757.0 1816.8
Efficiency% 93.0 93.0 88.42 89.64 91.32 88.90
1st grade 96.5 96.5 95.65 95.76 97.7 97.64
Avg. package 4.3kg 4.3kg 3.98kg 4.06 kg 4.33kg 4.25
Ends down% 1.0 1.0 2.7 2.6 1.97 2.6
Idle% 1.0 1.0 2.64 1.97 1.49 1.3
Waste% 0.3 0.35 0.5 0.41 0.33 0.3

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Per day 400 tons produce in this dept.

PACKING & INSPECTION

There are mainly 3 types of products, those produce in the dept. They
are:

• NIM- No intermingling
• SIM- Sub intermingling
• HIM- High intermingling

On this basis the products are divided in three qualities:

• First quality
• Printing quality
• Claimless quality

This division is done on the basis of following chart:

FIRST QUALITY
Defects Knitting Weft G.F.T Micro Roto SIM Export
normal HIM
B.F/Loops 5-6/kg 4-5/kg nil 5-6/kg 1-2/kg 3-4/kg nil
Cross winding 2 2 nil nil 1 1 nil
Oil stain 63 70 70 63 68 66 68

Hardness nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil


Slippage nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil
Tight spot nil 1-2/kg 2-4/kg nil nil Nil nil
Bulk variation nil Very Very nil nil Nil nil
less less
Weak yarn nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil
Winding nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil
mistake

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Nips variation N.A N.A N.A N.A 1/MT 1/MT nil
High oil nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil

PRINTING QUALITY
Defects Weft Roto SIM
B.F/Loops 4-6/kg 3-5/kg 3-8/kg
Cross winding oneside, oneside, oneside,
4-6
Oil stain high high High
Hardness normal normal normal
Slippage nil nil nil
Tight spot 4-6/kg nil nil
Bulk variation Allow Allow Allow
Weak yarn Very less Very less Very less
Winding mistake Allow Allow Allow
Nips variation nil Allow Allow
High oil Abnomal Abnomal Abnomal

CLAIMLESS QUALITY
Defects Weft Roto SIM JOB LOT
B.F/Loops 76/kg 76/kg 78/kg 78/kg
Cross winding Both side, Both Both Both side,
>6-10 side, side, >10
> 6-10 > 6-10
Oil stain Max Max Max Max
Hardness Abnomal Allow Allow Allow
Slippage Allow Allow Allow Allow
Tight spot Allow Allow Allow Allow
Bulk variation Allow Allow Allow Allow
Weak yarn Allow Allow Allow Allow
Winding mistake N.A Allow Allow Allow
Nips variation Allow Allow Allow Allow
High oil Allow Allow Allow Allow

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Mixdenial Max Max Max Allow

For packing 3 color packs are used. Red for C.L quality, Green for
Printing quality, and white one for export quality.

Q.A OF TEXTURISING

• WRAP REEL: here mainly denier is measured in 90 mtr length.


• STATIMATEME: for measuring elongation, tenacity in a length of
500 mm-4 package from a lot.
• ITIMAT LAB: it measures punch put up into texture yarn
• TEXTUREMATME: to measure shrinkage and crimp contraction
• TWISTER: Gauge length 50 mm is test for measure the TPM.
• TKD: Tube knitting dyeing, here mainly sample of a lot is knitted
and then dyed. Now by shade variation the irregularity is
measured.

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