UBOND AP+

water based GLOSS/ MATT lacquer for WOOD –

100% ECO FRIENDLY – “0” VOC

FAST DRYING
Best reason for using UBOND AP+ finishes is that it dries fast, especially
when compared with brushable varnishes and polyurethanes .

In most cases, a typical UBOND AP+ coating will be dry to the touch in 5 to 10 minutes and can be
handled, sanded, and recoated within an hour. If you spray finish, you will find that drying times for
UBOND AP+ finishes are comparable to those of traditional lacquers and shellac.

Drying times for UBOND AP+ finishes can't be beaten. Even so-called "fast-dry" polyurethanes take at
least an hour to dry to the touch and many more hours before they can be sanded and recoated.
The fast-drying properties of UBONS AP+ give them definite advantages over solvent-based products,
especially when applying them by brush.
First, because UBOND AP+ dries so quickly, the chances of dust settling into the wet finish is
significantly reduced. This mean s you can achieve a better finish with less work and the working
environment doesn't have to be absolutely spotless to get a good finish.
Also, multiple coats of fast -drying finish can be applied quickly. Under the right conditions, it is not
unusual to apply three or four coats of finish in one day.
CLEAR DRYING AND NON YELLOWING
The exceptional clarity of most water based products makes them the ideal choice when you want the
finish to protect the wood but not change its color. UBOND AP+ finishes with great success over
pickled, painted, and colored furniture. Use UBOND AP+ topcoats when trying to match a difficult
shade of stain. Once the color of the stain is right, you don't want to worry about the topcoat changing
its shade by making it darker or more amber in tone. Also, UBOND AP+ won't yellow with age the
way most lacquers and varnishes do, which makes them a good choice for finishing light-colored
woods like ash and maple.

DURABLE AND SCRATCH RESISTANT

The resins used in UBOND AP+ finishes have improved to the point where most products are at least
as durable, if not more so, than solvent-based materials. UBOND AP+ forms a tough, flexible film that
is highly scratch resistant and can withstand most forms of abuse, including heat, alcohol, acids, alkali,
oils, greases and most common household foods and chemicals.

WHEN ARE UBOND AP+ FINISHES APPROPRIATE?

UBOND AP+ finishes are appropriate in just about any situation imaginable. If you need a hard,
scratch-resistant finish that is easy to apply and dries fast, UBOND AP+ would be a good choice. If
you are looking for a clear, non yellowing finish for light colored woods or "pickled" furniture,
UBOND AP+ products are for you. If you want to spray your finishes but don't have a proper spray
booth or good ventilation, then nontoxic, nonflammable UBOND AP+ is the safest choice.
Because UBOND AP+ finishes are nontoxic, they are not only safer for you and the environment but
are also a good choice for finishing children's furniture and toys. Also, the low-odor, high scratch-
resistance, fast-drying characteristics of UBOND AP+ products make them ideal for wood floors.

Sanding
With UBOND AP+ finishes, use sandpaper up to120 grit before applying the first coat of finish.

Prewetting to reduce WOOD GRAIN RAISING

For an exceptionally fine finish on a piece or if you want to minimize the amount of
grain raised by the first coat of finish, you may pre wet the surface before applying the seal coat.
Simply, this involves wetting the wood, letting it dry, then sanding it. The water raises the grain just as
the water in the first coat of finish would, then after the wood has dried, the stiffened fibers are sanded
off.
Use a spray bottle to apply a light mist on the wood, but you could also use a rag or sponge. The key is
to get the surface of the wood damp, not to soak it throughout.

After spraying or wiping on a light coat of water, let the wood sit until dry. On a warm, dry day, wood
that has been given a light misting may be ready to sand in 15 or 20 minutes.

If the application of water is heavier or if the weather is cold or humid, the piece may need to dry for an
hour or two.
e.g.: if dry sanded to 120 grit, you may use 180 grit to smooth the raised grain. However, never wet
sand above 220 grit, since anything finer will not do a good job of removing the stiffened fibers.
The type of paper used when wet sanding is really a matter of personal preference. Use a silicon
carbide paper that is designed for both wet and dry sanding. Often called wet/dry or auto paper, it is
easily recognized by its evenly sized grit and black color.

Using paste fillers

In some cases, the final finish you are trying to create may only be achieved by first filling the pores of
the wood. This is especially true when working with open grained wood s like oak, mahogany, ash, and
walnut. Although there will be times when you want to maintain that open grained look, there will be
other instances when you want the finished surface to be as smooth as possible.
Using paste fillers on your project not only helps to create a surface that is like glass but also allows
you to introduce another element of color into the final finish.
When discussing paste, or pore, fillers, it is important to note the distinction between a wood filler and
a wood putty. Fillers are used to fill the open pore s on the surface of the wood.
They are used to give the wood a smooth, glassy surface and can also be used to impart interesting
colors and contrasts in the appearance of the wood.
Putties, on the other hand, are used to fill cracks, nail holes, gaps, and other defects.
Similarly, fillers should not be confused with sealers. Sealers are clear liquids that contain many of the
same properties as a film-forming finish.
Sealers do just what their name implies- they seal the surface of the wood. They can either help to seal
finishes like stains and dyes in the wood or to prevent more finish from penetrating the wood .

If you do plan on putting a UBOND AP+ topcoat over an oil-based filler, be sure to let it dry
thoroughly. Wait at least two or three days and, if possible, up to a week before applying the topcoat.
We also recommend applying a coat of dewaxed shellac as a sealer to avoid any potential adhesion
problems. Test a sample piece first before mixing these two products on a completed piece of furniture.

APPLYING PASTE FILLERS

Before you begin applying a paste filler to your project, remove all of the dust that resulted from
sanding. Dust left in the pores of the wood may prevent the filler from adhering properly. In fact,
you may end up removing most if not all of the filler when wiping off the excess. Since dust gets
embedded deep in the pores of the wood, simply wiping the surface with a rag or brush won't do. The
best way to remove all of the dust is with a blast of compressed air. If you don't own an air compressor,
you can resort to the next best thing lung power.

MAKING YOUR OWN PUTTIES

Here is a quick and easy alternative that usually makes small cracks and nail holes virtually disappear.
First, squeeze a tiny amount of PVA EMULSION into the void. Be sure to use enough PVA
EMULSION to fill the hole but don't use so much that it makes a mess of the surrounding wood.
Let the PVA EMULSION set for a few minutes, then take a piece of 220-grit sandpaper and begin
lightly sanding the area on and around the defect. The fine sawdust that is gene rated will begin to stick
to the PVA EMULSION, eventually covering it completely.
Because you are using dust from the wood immediately surrounding the defect, the color is the same
and the void seems to disappear. Plus, because the dust is stuck to the PVA EMULSION and not mixed
with it, it takes stain and finish pretty much the same as the surrounding wood. Just be sure to
thoroughly sand any excess PVA EMULSION off the surface of the wood, otherwise it will show
through the finish .While we don 't recommend this for large defects, it does work well on small nail
holes, cracks, and voids .

When applying UBOND AP+ topcoats over solvent-based fillers and stains, give the solvent-based
product plenty of time to cure. Keep in mind the difference between cured and dry. A pigmented
stain may be dry to the touch in a matter of a few minutes or hours, but it will not be fully cured until
all of the solvent has evaporated .