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By Marshal M. Rosenthal, eHow Contributor
An LED slide projector has many advantages over a conventional slide projector that uses an incandescent light to "throw" an image onto a wall or screen. The LED projector uses less electrical power to run, doesn't generate any significant heat during its use and also lasts longer than a bulb. Making an LED projector can be done by just about anyone willing to spend the time and effort needed. This will demonstrate the advantages of an LED projector over one using a bulb.
Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Things You'll Need:
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Wood drill Wood screws Electric screwdriver LED flashlight Long piece of wood Two wood blocks Wood pieces Two optical glass frames +4 strength optical glass +5 strength optical glass Wood pegs Wood glue Super glue Flat edged screwdriver
1. 1 Take the long piece of wood and use the electric screwdriver to screw it to the two wood blocks with wood screws, one at each side so that the piece of wood "floats" over the surface of the work table. Take the LED flashlight and glue a peg to the bottom using super glue. Let the glue dry. Place the LED flashlight into one end of the long piece of wood by inserting the peg into the hole. 2. 2 Take the +4 strength magnifying glass and build a frame around it with the wood pieces. Screw the wood pieces together with wood screws. Glue a peg into the bottom of the frame with wood glue. Let the glue dry.
Place the wood frame with the +4 strength optical glass at the other end of the long piece of wood by inserting the peg into the hole. 3. 3 Make another frame surrounding the +5 strength optical glass. Screw the wood pieces together with wood screws. Glue a peg into the bottom of the frame with wood glue. Let the glue dry. Place this frame behind the other frame by inserting the peg into the hole behind the frame at the end of the long piece of wood. 4. 4 Take a wood piece and use the flat edged screwdriver to gouge out a small slit the length of the wood. Glue a peg to the bottom of the piece of wood with wood glue. Let the glue dry. Insert a slide upside down into the slit on the wood. Insert the peg into the channel in the center of the long piece of wood. 5. 5 Take the long piece of wood and place it facing a wall. Turn off the lights. Turn on the LED flashlight. Line up the wood with the slide on it with the frames holding the optical glass. Move the piece of wood holding the slide forward and backwards to focus the image being projected through the lens. Look at the image being projected. Energy Smart LED Bulb GEwww.ecomagination.com/smartbulb Replaces the standard 40-watt light bulb while just consuming 9 watts. Machine Vision Inspectionwww.coherent.com/MachineVision Gather and analyze data using lasers from food to auto inspection Recom LED Driverswww.recom-international.com 300mA- 1000mA constant current, 98% efficiency LED drivers from Germany projector lampwww.hhlamps.com original projector lamp provided compatible projector lamp provideed
Read more: How to Build an LED Projector | eHow.comhttp://www.ehow.com/how_5535190_build-led-projector.html#ixzz19Jly64do
So the projector will have to be placed in a perpendicular position with the screen. If you keep the two of them together (like this projector) it will be a lot easier and less danger of damaging or scratching them. step 1The Principle The principle is very simple. old LCD projector lens. 12v PC speakers. There is a powerful light that is projected through an LCD into a lens so the image is projected. pay good attention to the cooling system. Some things you want to take into consideration: -The better the quality on the LCD. the better the projected image. top end projectors can cost you a fortune.Buying a top end projector is no mean feast. 40mm fan. (I'm using a LCD with 640X480 pixels) -The LCD can't take more than 40C. -The use of mirrors allows you to make the box smaller as if there are no mirrors. thermal paste grease. Any big scratch will be reflected in the projected image. the other one is focusing all the light to one point. you will have to place the LED farther from the fresnel lens. (I'm using the always faithful fresnel lens from an old OHP ) -The fresnel from the OHP is really a twin fresnel. -Without a good fresnel lens will be really difficult to light the LCD evenly. 30W High power LED. The main hardware that you¶ll need for this DIY is an LCD screen. so if you decide to use some other type of light source. the one that faces the light is expanding the light to the full area of the lens. so as to project the image. apart from all this you¶ll require other electronics and tools. So it is better to give a shot at making one yourself. The down bit is that you won't be able to do keystoning adjustment. -You need to have everything inside some sort of enclosure. The DIY LED projector works basically by projecting powerful light through an LCD (one with minimum 640×480 pixels should be used) onto a lens. OHP mirror. and also the LCD from the main lens. . OHP Frensel lens. or the light will be coming out and it will light the room making the projector a lot less efficient.
If you can fit everything inside some sort of metal box.5A) -12v PC Speakers . but be creative. view ) -30W High power led (1. and the other one to cool the voltage regulator) -OHP Mirror. Also a list of the tools I've used. MATERIAL : -LCD Screen (640x480.8A 16V. -OHP Fresnel lens. that'll be even smaller. -Old LCD Projector Lens (If you're using a LCD bigger than 2" you won't be able to use a slide projector lens.) -40mm fan( I took mine from a Mac case I found on the street. view ) -Two Heat sinks .) -20V Laptop charger (4.step 2Materials and Tools Here is a list of material I've used to make this projector. (One for the LED. view ) -Thermal paste grease (This is to conduct more heat between the LED and the heat sink. I found the LCD projector on the street without light. Some copy lenses are good for this project) -Some sort of case (I made mine with wood and plywood.
-4 Small washers. but I had many parts already.(2) 10 uf Capacitor . -Small round file. -Epoxy ABOUT THE COST. I used it to make the fan less noisy. -Solder. -Hole saw. -Double size tape. view . . view .1 uf Capacitor . I spent about 60 pounds. view .560 Ohm Resistor -(2) 1N4001 Diodes .0. Used to power the LED.100nF Capacitor . datasheet ) . datasheet ) -12V Fixed voltage regulato r (2A.5k variable resistor TOOLS : -Drill -Dremel with cutting disk and round file tool. datasheet ) -5V Fixed voltage regulator (2A. The LCD was 22 Pounds The LED was 25 Pounds . -Pliers. -Masking tape...Paint (only if you decide to paint the enclosure) ELECTRONICS : -LM350 (3A Voltage regulator. This one is not totally necessary.
The condenser lens was from a car headlight..Mark the holes where you'll fix the LED. 5. that's why I added a fan to cool off the heat sink. Pay good attention to the polarity.Fix the LED to the Heat sink.. 4. 3. Make the necessary holes for the cables) 6. 2.The old OHP was 5 Pounds (mirror and fresnel) The Electronic components cost me around 3 Pounds I had all the other parts.-Make the holes with the drill. It should say it) Here is the video of how I've done it. step 3Placing the LED in the Heat Sink The High Power LED needs to be placed on a Heat sink.Find a way to fix the condenser lens later.. . 1..Solder the cables to the LED (Protect the LED before soldering. You could use any plastic tube. The heatsink from a old pc processor. ( I used some slide lens adapter that I had hanging around. The heat sink I'm using is not as big as I would like. The lens came from an old LCD projector.Put some thermal paste grease ..
4.Use some electrical tape to hold the condenser lens to whatever you're going to use to separate it from the LED.Use the pliers and some more copper wire to fix the lens to the heat sink. 3.i step 4Mounting the Condenser Lens The condenser lens will help to project the light further and also will help to avoid loss of light.The condenser lens I used is from a car..-Give it a try with your bench power supply (Don't have one yet? See here to make your own) . 1. so it has some sort of border around.. 2. I used some rigid copper wire to hold it in place..
.. That will be the VERY last step (as it will protect the LCD from scratches). I tried to do everything in front of the camera. so. . sorry! :) And here the video of how to desolder the backlight. This will help you always see what is the top and bottom of the LCD. -Put some tape on top of the protective film and write down some letters (like DVD).step 5Dismanteling the LCD Before taking apart the LCD: -Try the screen and see if it works. A picture is worth a thousand words. even without having to turn it on. so I guess a video is worth even more....... Here is the video of how to take apart and desolder the back light.. -Don't take the protective film off the LCD. but some times I forgot.
.step 6LCD Mount A good and easy way to mount the LCD is to use the same case where it goes.Use the same screws that used to hold the circuit with a few washers to hold the LCD in place. .. 3.Place the LCD with the wires at the top. 1. (This is done so you can fix the LCD with some washers as you can see in the video) 2.-File a little bit the with the dremel the 4 holding points where the circuit was screwed to the casing.
as placing the LCD circuit near the LCD without blocking the LCD itself is vital for a good result.-File the holes a little bit until you can fix the screws you want to use.. 4. 2. 3. I used a cable tie. it would be better as these screws still separate the circuit from the case a little bit.Place the circuit on top of the plastic that is holding the LCD and mark the two holes where the circuit will be fitted.step 7PCB Fitting This is very important. 1.-Fix the cables to something so you wont break it. use some epoxy to glue the screws. If you can take out of a old computer the type of screw I'm using (they are called standoffs screws). after protecting the LCD.Drill the case and.. .
(The LED is rated 1.8A but just to be on the safe side) . Place the voltage regulator in a good heat sink.7A. With the LM350 I can change the voltage with the 5k variable resistor and at the same time I have the ammeter connected to make sure the amps will not raise 1.step 8Schematic Here is the schematic.
Mark where they'll go (Pay attention that they will not block any light... 2. It is very important now that you are able to get the LCD in a straight position by measuring from the middle of the LCD to the holding surface.step 9LCD Stand From now on we are going to make everything able to stand in an upright position. But you can use anything in a right angle. The first thing we'll be getting in an upright position is the LCD as it's the main point to get the other things lined up. 1. .I found some heat sink supports from an old amplifier. This is going to allow us to play with the distances of everything to get the picture right..Drill the case and screw to it. This measurement will have to be the same for the light source (LED with condenser lens) and the main projection lens.) 3.
we need to make everything line up with that. but you could even use some wood cut to size. 1.step 10Fit legs to the Light Source Now that we know the height of the centre of the LCD. 2. So the first thing is the light source.-I found some plastic legs that will do the job.-Drill the heat sink where you think it will be a good place to fitted. .
as once you know the right position of the mirrors you can reinforce it with some hot glue. . 2.Protect the mirror with some masking tape. (normally they wont charge for such a small job) 3.Mark the centre of the mirror and take it to your local glaziers to get it cut.I found a couple of angle metal things.step 11The Mirrors The mirrors came from the mirror of an OHP. . . 1. and with some double sided tape I held the mirror to it. (This will be provisional.) .
All I had to do was drill a couple of holes to fit it to the wood.step 12The Projector Lens I was really lucky. . because the projector lens I'm using has some sort of metal support. and the height was almost exactly with the centre of the LCD.
-Use some masking tape to protect the fresnel as any big marks on the fresnel will be visible on the projected image... Do your best.After cutting the fresnel. tape the borders to stop the fresnel coming apart. I decided to use the angle grinder to be quicker. . 1. But you could cut the fresnel with a dremel or some other thing. paying good attention to the center (see the video to know what I mean..Mark the centre of the fresnel. we want to do the same on the fresnel. 3.Now that we know the centre of the LCD. if its not right right on the center is still ok) 4. You should wear a mask (the fumes from the fresnel when cutting aren't very healthy). or dust getting in between them. but this is not a toy. is very dangerous if you don't know how to use it. So measure the space from the base of the projector and the circuit.step 13Cutting the Fresnel Lens When cutting the fresnel lens you could use many tools. (see the video to know how to) 2. safety glasses and gloves.
. lenses. .step 14Work out the Distances We now have everything ready to work out the distances This really depends on your personal setting of the condenser lens... Some lenses wont focus from too far and too close.. . etc. LCD.The best thing to do is play with the distances and mark everything once you're happy with the result. I used two mirrors to keep the enclosure as small as possible.Try the distances where you will think the projector is going to be. mirrors. This is my setting.
3. or with the dremel.. . ..step 15The AV connectors I recycled the AV connectors.Make sure the lines on the circuit board are cut. If you are doing the same: 1.Hold the cables with a cable tie. 2.-Solder the cables 4.Cut the circuit board with some scissors.
speakers. 1. 6. 2. so they will be no screws showing in the sides.step 16The Box My box is made of wood and plywood... Also make a few holes under the heat sink of the LED to allow air flow. (it took forever. 3.Before making the enclosure.Once you have the enclosure ready..Paint the enclosure. The way I painted mine was with a couple of coats of oil based primer and then with another couple of coats of oil base paint. I use some black shoe polish.Paint the base in matt black so they will be no reflections.. cut and drill all the holes needed for the sound system. etc. and mark them so you don't place something where it will be in the way.. I used a leg with that feature.. with this cold I had to wait around 12h between coats) 5. but if you don't have anything like that you could always use a screw. and some sort of leg at the front that can make the front of the projector go up and down...Use some two part filler If you're using plywood and want to make it smooth.. I made it to fix the top to the base. fan. buttons. connectors.Is a good idea to fit a couple of small legs at the bottom. take measures of the height of everything. . and it did work well. 4.
2..step 17Sound System My sound system came from the computer speaker. 1.I modified the circuit so I could use the sound system switch as main switch.. seepics 3.Take it apart.. which looks cooler! . If they work at 12v even better as you need to drop down the voltage to 12v for the LCD.Later I change the LED of the sound circuit for a blue LED.
. 2.Mark where the power connector can go from the inside..Drill the hole for the connector. 3. 1..step 18Power Connector I fitted the power connector once I knew where it could go.-Use a needle or a small nail to make a small hole from the inside out.
Wait until the glue is fully dry before closing the case.step 19Hot Glue Now you can hot glue everything to the case. .
.step 20USB Multimedia Reader Here are a few pictures of the multimedia player. I had a portable DVD player that din't want to read DVD's any more so I took it apart and place it inside the projector.
Use some foam like in the video to cover around the lens and other areas where some light is coming out. I also place a few labels with some rub-on letters like you can see in the pictures. .step 21Finishing Touches Everything seems to be working ok. but maybe there is some light coming out of the box. you're happy with the projector.
which will last almost forever. for the screen I'm using an Ikea roller blind . I did work hard to make it as good as I can. Now relax on the sofa while you watch your favourite movie on a 2m diagonal screen. (by the way. but maybe I missed a step or something. so just ask if you have any questions. .step 22You're Done! Well done! You were able to make your own projector with an LED. works GREAT!) I hope you like this Instructable.
. the LCD could get some dust or something that needs to be cleaned from time to time (not very often though) First take the lid off your projector. To clean the projector you could use a blower cleaner. That is normal.step 23Cleaning the Projector After some time using the projector you may see that there is small marks or dust on the projected image. Here is a video of how to do it if you have a enclosure like mine. It only takes a minute. I use this blower that is to clean my camera.
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