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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Bunny Paint Project

This project can either be painted onto fabric or watercolor paper. If you paint it on to watercolor paper, take a picture, you can then print it on to iron-on transfer paper for your table runner. The image could then be printed for other decorative items such as aprons, greeting cards, candle wraps . . . the possibilities are endless! At the end of the photos you’ll find the pattern to download as well as General Tips & FAQ’s. If you run into any issues, please contact me. This photo tutorial is for watercolor paper which affords a little more leeway for beginning artists. If you’d like a background color, paint that first, allow to dry & then transfer your pattern.Your artwork will not look like mine, but that’s okay. Make it your own and have fun!

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Supplies
 Watercolor Paper at least 8-1/2 x 11  Graphite Transfer Paper (available in crafts stores)  Paper towels  Two water basins –one to clean dirty brushes; one for clean water  Foam plate  Stylus or ball point pen – to transfer pattern

Paints & Brushes
These are recommended colors only. Delta Ceramcoat was used, but any acrylic paint will work.

    

Sweet Pea - basecoat Dusty Plum – shading White - highlight Flat Brushes size 6 & 10 Liner Brush

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Step 1
Download the line art pattern – it’s the last page of this tutorial. Pattern follows the pictures. You can enlarge or reduce it, however it is sized to fit iron-on transfer paper.

Step 1
Place pattern on watercolor paper. Painter’s tape is helpful in case you need to lift the pattern and then reposition it. With a stylus or ball point pen, trace the outline of the flower, ribbon and leaves. If the transfer markings are too dark on the watercolor paper, use an eraser to lighten them to where you can still see them, but they’re not going to show through the paint. If you don’t have transfer paper, turn pattern over and mark over line art with a pencil. The graphite from the pencil will work as a transfer.

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Step 2
Basecoat bunny with Sweet Pea using your largest paintbrush.

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Step 3
Shade with Dusty Plum in designated areas. Mural Maker & More http://MuralMaker1.blogspot.com

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Step 4
Apply 1st highlight with White in areas shown.

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Step 5
Topcoat with Sweet Pea all areas except cheeks, muzzle, teeth, tummy & tail. Mural Maker & More http://MuralMaker1.blogspot.com

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Step 6
Apply 2nd highlight coat of White. Mural Maker & More http://MuralMaker1.blogspot.com

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

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General Instructions
Supplies
       

Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Two water buckets – one for dirty brushes, one for clean water Foam plate to pour paint on Paper towels Watercolor paper or canvas Graphite or transfer paper –or you can use a pencil on back of pattern. See FAQ below. Stylus or ball point pen to transfer pattern Paint Brushes

This is a simple technique that doesn’t require previous painting experience. This is because you’ll layer the colors on. Basecoat, shade, highlight, then topcoat. Since most colors in craft paints are not usually opaque in their coverage, underpainting (shading & highlighting) will peek through after you topcoat. Everyone paints differently so everyone’s painting will look a little different. How wet your brush is with water, how many coats you apply, how heavily you apply the paint – or lightly, even the pigments in the paint will affect the overall appearance. I’ve tried to cover all variables above in my notes, if not my pictures. The most important thing to remember is it’s only paint! You can always start over by ‘whiting out’ your original design.

Tips
Paints
You don’t have to use the colors I’ve used. Go ahead and pick your own. Just choose colors that are fairly close in hue range.

Brushes
Flat Brush – rectangular in shape Round Brushes – pointed brushes (I don’t use these but some people like them.) Liners –thin pointed brushes My brushes of choice for craft paints are Donna Dewberry’s. You can get them at Michael’s and some Walmarts, or online, or course. They last well, hold their shape and are not too expensive. They also come in some good groupings, which are a nice value. Always dip your brush in clean water & then towel off excess moisture before picking up paint. Liner brushes – dip in water, towel off moisture. Roll in paint sideways to get fine tip. Cleaning Your Brushes I use regular bar soap. Rinse the brush with clean water, stroke it thru the soap and rinse again. Once the paint is completely removed, I take a few soap suds and leave them in the brush, form it back into shape and let it dry laying flat. If you allow it to dry upright, it’ll lose it’s shape.

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Transferring the pattern

Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

You can use graphite paper, sewing transfer paper, or an art transfer paper that is removed w/water. I always use graphite paper because I have it on hand. You’ll probably have to go over the transfer and erase it to lighten up the pattern. If you don’t have transfer paper, turn the pattern over and rub a pencil over the outlines. Then turn it right side up, place it on top of your watercolor paper, and trace the design with a ball point pencil. Try to mark your transfer inside the pattern line, rather than right on top if it. Your transfer lines will be covered better. This way if you go outside the lines when painting, you can easily add to it. Much easier than trying to remove paint.

Painting Tips
Dip your brush in water first, before paint. Just take a paper towel and remove the majority of the moisture. The water will keep the paint from drying in your brush if it’s out of water for too long.      Basecoat - fill in from the outside of pattern, moving towards center. If you have ridges of paint build up, try and smooth them. But if they’re on the edge of your pattern, just leave it. Shade – about 2 shades darker than basecoat. Shading will cause area to visually recede. Highlight – about 3 shades up from basecoat and/or White. Highlights will visually bring that area forward or make it more prominent. White – you can always use white to highlight. You just might have to add more glaze over any imperfections. Detail colors – you can detail either with paint or felt pens. For some fine work, fine tip felt pens will feel more comfortable at first. They’re just harder to correct. I usually detail with paint and then come over it with felt pen. Topcoat – apply basecoat color over designated areas. Too light, apply another coat. If it covers up your shading & highlighting, apply additional coats of these.

Generally speaking, I apply highlighting next to shading. Not always, but frequently. Finishing Touches You can take a felt pen and draw around the outlines for more definition. Fine tip Sharpies work fine. Or Micron Pigma pens, available in an arts & crafts store or online. Pigma pens come in all kinds of colors and fine tips.

Painting curves
If you’re right handed, it’ll be easier to move from left to right. If you’re left handed, you might find it easier to paint curves from right to left.

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Terms

Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

Opaque – complete paint coverage with no layers showing underneath Translucent – sheer coverage, allowing layers underneath to show through Sideloading - Dip one corner of your flat brush into the paint. Don’t worry about how it looks when first applied. After you apply one or two topcoats, any imperfections will lessen.

Floating Medium/Gel
Each pattern is designed to be painted with full strength paint. At some point, however, you might want to experiment with Floating medium for shading, highlighting & topcoating. The medium makes your paint translucent, so the layers beneath show thru a bit. To use Medium, dip your brush in the medium, work it thru by stroking the brush back and forth on your foam plate, then pick up some paint and stroke back and forth. This will mix the paint & medium together. Now what? What can you do with your painting, other than frame it? Take a picture, or scan it, into your computer. Reducing the image will make it look clearer, as opposed to enlarging it. Print it onto iron on transfer paper and iron it on to fabric –table runners, wall hangings, pillows, etc. Print it onto vellum or tissue paper & wrap candles. Use it as decoupage paper for all kinds of projects.

FAQ’s
What if transfer markings show thru the basecoat? It’s best to erase dark markings before you basecoat. But if they do show through, you’ll just need a few more basecoats. Or, you can outline the pattern with your detail color or a felt pen when you’re done painting. What if I paint outside the pattern edges? Take a clean damp brush and wipe outside the edge, picking up the “oops” area. It may require a few pickups, rinsing in clean water each time. If you catch it soon enough, this usually works, although some dark colors are just hard to remove. Then you might have to overpaint outside the design to clean it up. What if I want a color around the pattern? Do I paint it first or last? It’s easiest to do your background first, although sometimes I add it as an afterthought – carefully. I like to leave the background plain so I can use it for different crafts after scanning it into my computer. If you’re Photoshop savvy, you can always add or delete the background to your liking. What if I paint over the pattern detail on the inside? If you can’t see the detail line art, reposition the pattern onto your paper/canvas, tape it in place and transfer markings again. Do I have to use the same colors as the sample? Not at all. But you’ll want to choose your basecoat, then a shading color about 2 shades darker. You can almost always use White for highlighting, or a very light shade of your basecoat. How many basecoats do I need to do? That depends upon how wet your brush is and how you stroke your paint. Some people have a naturally light touch; others are heavy. The goal in basecoating is to have a fairly even appearance, with no obvious brushstroke lines. Mural Maker & More http://MuralMaker1.blogspot.com

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

What if I don’t want to cover the shading and/or highlighting? Leave them! If you like the appearance of your details, by all means, leave them as is. Can I do two applications of shading or highlighting? Definitely. Often, two applications gives a deeper, richer look. Why do I dip my brush in water before the paint? A damp brush helps the paint flow a bit smoother. It also protects your brush from dried paint building up, which will ruin the brush eventually. How wet should my brush be? It’s really more of a personal preference. I dip my brush in water and then get most of it off on a paper towel. My brush is damp, not sopping wet. How much paint should be on my brush? It’s really what you’re comfortable with. Try using less, rather than more to get started. Except for basecoating when you just want full coverage. After just a few kits, you’ll know what works best for you. I get ridges of paint built up on the edge of the pattern. How can I avoid this? Stroke your brush just inside of the edge, say about 1/8”. Then smooth out the paint ridge to the edge of the pattern. Do I need to seal the finished painting? You can, but most sealers will add a sheen, which messes up photographs – even Krylon Matte spray. I leave my originals as is and seal any reproduction work.

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Paint It Yourself (PIY) Kits

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