TDD-101

13th August 2000

Traditional Textile Of India
THE KASHMIR TEXTILES

Dr. Parul Bhatnagar
parulpb@gmail.com

Dayalbagh Educational Institute (Deemed University) Agra, India

Dr. Parul Bhatnabgar

Kashmir Textiles Namdas, Gubbas.

Kashmir was a pivotal point, through which the wealth, knowledge, and products of ancient India passed to the world although Islam and its enduring influence in Kashmir took root only in the 14th century. By the time of the Mughals the influence of Persian and Middle Eastern arts was considerable and is still evident in Kashmir's crafts. Kashmir was most famous for its intricately woven and embroidered shawls, which for centuries were a cornerstone of European fashion until the invention of Jacquard looms enabled the production of less expensive paisley shawls. Thirty thousand rural workers still weave and embroider Kashmiri shawls, which remain a status symbol in India. Another forty thousand weavers produce hand-woven fabrics, and the total output makes Kashmir one of India’s leading producers of handloom textiles. Men wear shawls with patterns expressed in tapestry weave over a twilled ground, mostly made of Pashmina, goat's wool.

The Kashmir shawls are definitely pre-Mughal in origin and design; India is the probable home of the shawl as an article of personal wear as used today around the shoulders.

The Emperor Akabar was a great admirer of the shawls of Kashmir it was he who began the fashion of wearing them in duplicate, sewn back to back, so that the under surfaces of the shawls were never seen (Do-shalla). During that time the most desired shawls were those worked in gold and silver thread or shawls with border ornamented with fringes of gold, silver and silk thread.

The majority of the woollen fabrics of Kashmir, and particularly the best quality shawls, were and are still made of Pashm or Pashmina, which is the wool of the Capra hircus, a species of the wild Asian mountain goat. Hence the shawls came to be called Pashmina. The fine fleece used for the shawls is that which grows under the rough, woolly, outer coat of the animal; that from the under-belly, which is shed on the approach of hot weather. Materials of an inferior grade were of the wool of the wild Himalayan mountain sheep or the Himalayan Ibex. However, the best fleece - soft, silky and warm is of the wild goats, and painstakingly gathered from shrubs and rough rocks against which the animals rub off their fleece on the approach of summer. This was undoubtedly the soft fleece wool from which were made the famous and much coveted ‘ring shawls’ in Mughal times unfortunately very inferior and second rate wool taken from domesticated sheep and goats provide most of the wool used today on the looms of Kashmir.
Dr. Parul Bhatnagar 2

Kashmir Textiles Namdas, Gubbas.

The chief types of Kashmir shawls are the Do-shala (twin-shawls) and the Chaddar-rumal or Kasaba. As the name designates, the former are always sold in pairs there being many varieties of them. In the Khali-matan the central field is quite plain and without any ornamentation. The Char-bagan is made up of four pieces in different colours neatly joined together; the central fluid of the shawl is embellished with a medallion of flowers. However, when the field is ornamented with flowers in the four corners we have the Kunj.

The Do-rukha, a woven shawl that is so done as to produce the same effect on both sides. This is a unique piece of craftsmanship, in which a multi-coloured pattern scheme is woven all over the surface, and after the shawl is completed, the Rafugar or expert embroiderer works the outlines of the motifs in darker shades to bring into relief the beauty of design. This attractive mode of craftsmanship not only produces a shawl, which is reversible because of the perfect workmanship on both sides, but it combines the crafts of both weave and embroidery. Perhaps the one in most demand is the Shahpasand (King’s Choice), in which the decorated borders at the ends of the shawls are broader than those on the sides.

Perhaps the most characteristic of the Kashmir shawls is the one made like patchwork. The patterns are woven on the looms in long strips, about twelve to eighteen inches in length and from half to two inches in width. These design strips, made on very simple and primitive looms, are next cut to the required lengths and very neatly and expertly hand sewn together with almost invisible stitches and finally joined by sewing to a plain central field piece. As a variation, pieces may be separately woven, cut up in various shapes of differing sizes and as before expertly sewn together and them further elaborated with embroidery but there is a difference between these two types, while the patchwork loom shawls are made up from separate narrow strips, the patchwork embroidered shawls consists of a certain number of irregularly shaped pieces joined together, each one balancing the predominant colour scheme of the shawl.

The colours most commonly seen in Kashmir shawls are yellow, white, black, blue, green, purple, crimson and scarlet. The design motif are usually formalised imitations of Nature quite often the leaf of the Chenar tree so abundant of growth in the high altitude of this northern state, apple blossoms, the almond, the tulip, and occasionally the fruits of the region, when birds appear in the mountain, they are always in a riot of rich colours.
Dr. Parul Bhatnagar 3

Kashmir Textiles Namdas, Gubbas.

Before passing on to the embroidered shawls, the Jamiawar of Kashmir, which also is a loom designed but brocaded woollen fabric deserves a brief mention. The Jamiavars are of fixed length, that is they are available only as cut pieces, with the ends woven into a fringe from the warp threads themselves; but in the Jamiavars produced in Amritsar and Ludhlana the fringe is separately made and ultimately sewn on. And therein lie the difference- and a clue to identification.

The Jamiawar is woven wholly of wool or with some cotton mixture; but the floral design and brocaded parts are invariably in silk or Pashmina wool. Many designs are found in this woollen brocaded material but the floral motif is dominant large flower sprays and the small-flower. The Jaldars are the net-like patterns. The original earliest designs were generally striped with the floral foliage on them. Some of the recent designs are unfortunately artistically cheap more like inferior wallpaper, which they try to imitate. A different design, consisting of alternate narrow and wide stripes, in rich shades of red (sometimes blue) and with floral scrolls on white or yellow ground originated in Jabalpur.

Early in the nineteenth century there originated the needle-worked Amlikar or Amli, a shawl embroidered almost all over with the needle on a plain woven ground. But this was no sudden innovation or the creation of a new style, as the needle-embroidered shawls was known in Kashmir even before this time.

The embroidery stitch employed is rather like parallel darning stitch. The embroidery thread is made to nip up the warp thread, but it is rarely allowed to penetrate the entire fabric. This clever mode of work makes the embroidery seem if produced actually on the loom. The outlines of the design are further touched up and accentuate with silk or woollen thread of different colours run round the finer details; the stitch used for this is like an obliquely overlapping darn stitch as a matter of fact, all the stitches used are so minute and fine that individually they can be seen with the unaided eye only with difficulty. Again, when Pashmina wool is used for the embroidery work, it is made to blend so intimately with the texture of the basic shawl material that it would be difficult to insert even a fine needle between the embroidery stitches and the basic fabric.

Dr. Parul Bhatnagar

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Kashmir Textiles Namdas, Gubbas.

Soft, fleece and warm, elegant and dignified and sober. Pure like the clean white tops of the Himalayan ranges, such were the shawls of Kashmir, a land of skilled craftsmanship, a land of flowers and divine beauty and the eternal snows.

Gubbas The basic material for a gubba is milled blanket dyed in plain colour. Embroidery is bold and vivid in designing and done with woollen or cotton threads. Gubbas have more of a folk flavour: blankets cut and patched into geometric patterns, with limited, embroidery on joining and open space. It is more of appliqué work. Colours are bright and attractive. They are cheep and used for dewan covering or floor covering like Namdas.

Dr. Parul Bhatnagar

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