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This section sets out a brief overview of Harris Scarfe Inspection Procedures by supplier self inspection and third party inspection. INSPECTION REPORT Inspection report must be filled in and signed off by supplier QA technician. Inspection report MUST be sent with pre-shipping / production samples and accompanied by supplier measurement sheet, with all point of measurements as graded specification sheet to Harris Scarfe QA department for shipping approval. Supplier QA technician must highlight in the report any areas, which have failed inspection and advise a plan of action to correct the problems. Any areas, which can not be corrected, MUST be clearly identified to enable Harris Scarfe QA technician and Buyer to make a commercial decision to reject or accept the bulk delivery. Garment Inspection Elements Following four elements must be checked on each order. Failure to meet any of the elements could cause the order to be rejected. Prior to final inspection following paperwork shall be provided to the onsite auditor to facilitate inspection of packed goods • Order quantity • Packaging • Labelling • Styling • Accessories • Approved bulk / trim swatches • Measurement Specification sheet QUANTITY: The quantity available for inspection accords to the order quantity. PACKAGING and FOLDING: The style is boxed, packaged and folds as per specification in the contract GARMENT STYLING: The garment should include all features as approved in the sealer / pre-production sample. Be correct in • Styling • Quality of fabric • Quality of trims and accessories VISUAL DEFECTS: Visual and functional defects will be evaluated using the parameters set forth in this section. MEASUREMENTS: Garment measuring is included in the inspection. If measurements are not within Harris Scarfe’s tolerances, the order will fail and then will be rejected. LABELLING and TICKETING: All labels and tickets will be evaluated based on the specifications outlined in Labelling section for correct brand name, fibre content, care instruction and country of origin and its placement.
Inspection Procedure 1
Garment / Fabric defects Defects are categorised as major or minor depending on the severity.B and C A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone A defect in “B” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “C” zone and will be categorised accordingly. August 2006 Inspection Procedure 2 .5% (major) will be used. The order can fail for either majors or minors. SAMPLE PLAN: Sample plan as per AS 1199 will be used in most instances. To determine whether a defect is major or minor.Garment Inspection Standards All sampling and statistical aspects of the inspection process are based on AS 1199.5% Major • Knits AQL: 10% Major Minor faults are faults that are outside tolerance and specification less than a grade. Major faults are faults that are outside tolerance and specification equal to or more than a grade. Suppliers should use these standards in their own quality assurance inspections so as to ensure stock presented for inspection has the highest likelihood of passing. WORKMANSHIP: • Level S4 for inspection in Australia • Level 1 for inspection in Overseas MEASUREMENTS: • Woven AQL: 6. the following factors will be considered: • Whether the defect will render the item unsaleable • The conspicuousness of the defect • The location of the defect on the item DEFECT ZONES The following diagrams showing major and minor apparel defect zones A. AQL: An AQL of 4% (minors) and 2.
August 2006 Inspection Procedure 3 .
August 2006 Inspection Procedure 4 .
thin spots. but is. however less than the agreed quality standard. weaving faults) Hole created in fabric when ticketing Pattern. holes.5 cm per garment width or length Bowing or skewing on plain fabrics up to 2. pockets. tears. runs.Defect Definition and Classification MAJOR FAULT This is a defect which is sufficient to cause the garment to be considered as second’s quality • A defect which is obvious • Affects the saleability or serviceability which worsens with wear and time • Varies significantly from the approval garment specification MINOR FAULT This is a defect which would not normally be identified by the customer. stripes. or anyone adjacent to the wearer • Will not worsen with time and wear Critical Defect List Fabric Defects Different weight / handle of fabric than approved sample Different weight / handle of fabric than approved sample Drill hole showing Fabric faults not evident on sample (eg: cuts. stains and soil marks Threads ends untrimmed Excessive fly or contamination on garment Major M M M Major M M M M M Minor m m Minor Component parts and assembly Missing parts Missing operation Operations not done per approved sample and specification Misalignment of parts. snags. barre Bowing or skewing on plain fabrics more than 2. flaps. streaks. mispicks slubs. trims more than 7 mm Inconsistent nap directions if specified August 2006 Inspection Procedure 5 . A defect which • Does not affect the performance of the garments in normal conditions • Is not noticeable to the customer on purchasing • Is not noticeable to the wearer of the garment. nepping. checks do not match as specified Permanent creases on fabrics.5 cm per garment width or length Nap or pile deformation Undesirable odour Major HOLD M M M M M M M Minor m m m m M M Major M M HOLD M Comm’t Shading Defects Shade variations between panels Shade variation of garment fabric and trims within the garment Shade variation of garment fabric and trims within the garment Dye streaks & barre marks at critical zone Different batches within the order Minor m Cleanliness Spots.
Missing care. designs Minor m Label.Seams and Stitching Open seam Skipped chain stitch Incomplete seams (two or more stiches) Double stitching gap 5 mm or more Needle holes Needle damage Garment parts caught in unrelated seam distorting fit appearance Improper stitch tension that affects appearance Raw edges (other than specified) outside Edge stitching irregular affecting appearance Untidy mending Piecing or joining of binding on critical zone of garments Monofilament yarns being used as a sewing thread in any stitching / including label stitching Seam twisted. hangtags. puckered and 5 mm away from label edge Harsh and stiff label compared to approved label (children wear) Harsh and stiff label compared to approved label (adult wear) Label omitted or insecurely attached Fibre label does not meet Labelling legal requirement Minor m M M m M m M M Major M M M M M M Major M M M M M Minor Minor Pockets Not in specified location more than 7 mm Shaped poorly Sewn crooked Not of specified size and shape Edge stitching not uniform Flaps not properly placed Puckers at flat joints m Collars and Cuffs Fullness or puckers at collar attachment Collar points not uniform and balanced Serious puckers on collar joining Misaligned or crooked collar settings more than 2 mm Misaligned or crooked collar setting less than 2 mm Puckered or crooked top stitching m August 2006 Inspection Procedure 6 . price tags etc. Hangtags and Embroidery Missing or wrong tags. content and country or origin and main label Hangtags insecurely attached or misplaced Wrong main label Label sewn with monofilament yarn Label sewing thread does not match colour of the garment Label sewing seam uneven. puckered or pleated affecting appearance Major M M M M M M M M M M M M M Major M M M M M M Major M Reject Reject Minor m Pressing Burned or scorched Over pressed to leave seam impression Stretched or distorted during pressing Excessive wrinkles that require pressing Serious shine caused by improper pressing Pressed poorly or not pressed at all Over pressed on improperly finished to deform shapes.
type or colour zippers Defective zipper slides Defective zipper stops on open front jackets Tight clearance between slides and seam edge causing difficult slider operation Rivets not properly and securely set Rivets with rough edges m Finishing and Hand-feel Permanent wrinkles or deformation on the garment Folding and Packaging Not as specified per product specification Measurements Any measurements beyond specified tolerance Design and Colour way Not according to approved sample or specification Weight Beyond specified tolerance Less than specified tolerance Gauge Knitted on different gauge machine Minor Minor Shipping Carton Mark Wrong or incomplete shipping carton markings August 2006 Inspection Procedure 7 . so do not have enough stretch M M M M Major M M M M Major M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M Major M Major M Major M Major HOLD Major M HOLD Major M Major HOLD Minor Minor Minor m Minor Minor Minor m Minor m m Plackets Top and bottom placket length not equal Top not covering bottom Top 7 mm longer than bottom Top over 7 mm longer than bottom Dimple at the bottom placket visible within 1 m Unbalanced and crooked placket top stitch Closure Buttons missing or damaged Buttons misplaced or misaligned causing poor appearance Buttons not sewn securely Buttons not in specified.Pleated or puckered cuffs at sleeve joints in woven cuff Fullness or twist or cuff affecting appearance Misaligned cuffs at bottom Rib collar or cuffs set to tight. type or colour Button holes omitted or added Button holes uncut Button holes not sewn securely (easily unravels) Defective snaps or fasteners that do not function Misalignments of fasteners causing bad appearance Snaps or grommets that are not properly set Snaps that do not fasten properly or release very easily Improper sippers setting causing wavy and bumpy appearance Wrong size.
HARRIS SCARFE – QUALITY ASSURANCE GARMENT INSPECTION REPORT BRAND: STYLE NUMBER: FABRIC: ORDER NUMBER: % READY FOR INSPECTION: 8 XS 10 S SEASON: DESCRIPTION: SUPPLIER: ORDER QUANTITY: NUMBER INSPECTED: 12 M 14 L 16 XL 18 2X 20 3X 22 24 4X 5X 26 28 6X 7X FEATURE FABRIC & GENERAL APPEARANCE FEATURE DEFECT FABRIC DEFECTS Holes / tears Dyeing defect Shading Soil / oil stains Pressing defects Creasing Thread ends Others STITCHING Correct density Even tension No cracking No skipped stitching No puckering No needle damage All same shade OVER LOCKING All edges Sufficient coverage No twisting SEAM ALLOWANCE Within tolerance BAR TACKING No over sews Sufficient stitches HEMMING Correct colour No unravelling Blind: not visible OTHER Straight Cover drill holes POCKETS Balanced Level COLLARS Symmetric Smooth line stand Not roll out Neck seam covered SEWING THREAD Correct colour Mark with √ (tick) and M – major defect or m = minor defect WORKMANSHIP ACCESSORIES August 2006 Inspection Procedure 8 .
VARIOUS SIZE SPECS Accepted Rejected - Correct count BUTTON / SNAP Correct type Correct position Secure Tidy at back BUTTONHOLES Correct size Correct thread colour ZIPPER Correct colour Correct type Slides smoothly Correct position BELT Correct size BELT LOOPS Correct length Correct width Correct position No raw edges CORRECT LABELS Main Content Size Country of origin Care Swing tag Price ticket Position LINNING Pressed Enough ease SPARE BUTTONS Clipped thread INSIDE TOLERANCE …… with …… minor faults …… with …… major faults REPORT & ACTION TAKEN: Quality Assurance Technician (Supplier): Date: August 2006 Inspection Procedure 9 .
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