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Intake, Combustion, and Exhaust Modifications FIAT Twin Cam Engines • Second Edition - July 2004 Brad Artigue

Contents
3 4 Introduction What's in Your Car
Identify the components that are actually installed in your FIAT.

7

Performance
Define performance in terms that make sense and prepare for modifications that suit your performance needs.

8

The Baseline
Establish a baseline of how your car performs with the current equipment. Determine if you need to alter the existing configuration or simply fix what you have.

9

Exhaust Systems
FIAT installed a variety of exhausts on their vehicles. Some systems are quite good, others are restrictive.

10

Intake and Carburetion
FIAT installed a variety of exhausts on their vehicles. Some systems are quite good, others are restrictive.

18

Tuning Single Carburetors
A reference on how to reset and tune a single carburetor

19

Dual Carburetors
Installing Dual Webers can be a real kick in the pants. This section deals with the Weber IDF series.

23 25 27 30 31

Weber IDF Diagrams Weber ADF / ADFA Diagrams Weber ADHA Diagrams Weber DFH Diagrams Weber DMS / DMSA Diagrams

Introduction
If you own a FIAT Spider then you own a wonderful car. Superb handling, beautiful styling, easy to work on, and inexpensive to own, Spiders are a hobbyists’ dream. I have owned several Spiders in the previous decade, all but one were carbureted. During the time that I was restoring each of these cars I did a lot of work with various carburetors and manifolds, trying to get as much performance as possible from “off the shelf” FIAT parts. The results of this work are published in this document. It is an unofficial document, FIAT no longer really supports the Spider (it has been out of production for almost 20 years), and is really a compilation of years of work enjoying these fine cars. This document is intended to explain the various carburetion systems used by FIAT on many FIAT and Lancia vehicles sold between 1966 and 1981. The most popular (and abundant) of these vehicles was the Fiat 124 Spider, but many other cars shared the same engine and carburetion systems. My personal experience is with the 124 Spider but the information in this document most likely includes your vehicle if it says “FIAT” or “LANCIA” on the outside and there is a belt-driven twin cam engine with a carburetor on the inside. FIAT used Weber as the primary source of carburetors throughout the 60's and 70's. Factory changes in carburetor types occured during engine displacement upgrades, changes in regional laws (such as environment legislation), or during model year changes. Most owners can be fully confident that the carburetor on their FIAT has been modified, replaced, rebuilt, or swapped for another model. The engines are flexible enough so that virtually all FIAT-Webers can be easily adapted fit on any model year vehicle. This interchangability makes it easy to find the right carburetor to suit your needs. Welcome to the Second Edition This edition contains new features and diagrams and several corrections. The support for this document has been overwhelming and I hope you continue to enjoy it. If you have the first edition you may have noticed the addition of "a mirafiori.com guide" on the cover. Mirafiori is an enthusiast driven website (www.mirafiori.com) for FIAT owners. It is an invaluable resource and is a rarity in the automotive world - an online resource that you can actually use with ease. Eli Caul (isaac@mirafiori.com) hosts the site and deserves an enormous pat on the back for the effort. Changes from the First Edition The first edition focused on the carburetion, intake, and exhaust system. That work has been expanded and now includes schematics for the various carburetor types. A new guide is also available for Fuel Injected Spiders. Copyright Information (c) 2001, 2004 Bradley Artigue. All Rights Reserved. This guide is freely distributable in electronic format provided it is distributed in the original form. Images are scanned with

124 Model Series From S/N 0005619 0010554 0021861 0022589 Engine 124AC. and exhaust system you have on your FIAT.040. On the Spider 2000 engine (1979-1985) it is located just to the right of the oil filter. carburetor. It is important to note that the last few numbers may not match up . intake manifold.031. If you are not 100% sure of what you have then take a few moments to check . Engine Identification The engine identification number is stamped into the engine block near the oil filter. Understanding what you have allows you to make an educated decision about what you need. Chances are you will have the correct engine in your car. carburetor cleaner or degreaser and a brush will allow you to read it.5 132A1.040 125BC. cylinder head.040 124AC. Never fear .040.040 124AC.3 132A1.What's in your Car? It is important to know what engine.5 132A1.5 132A1.many a Spiders with “2000” badges have 1800 engines and vice-versa.040 125BC.5 132A1. It is sometimes covered in grime.040 132C2.031 132C3.040. On all Spiders manufactured prior to 1979 it is located above the oil filter.040 124AC.040 132AC.040.040 Displacement 1438cc 1438cc 1438cc 1438cc 1608cc 1608cc 1608cc 1592cc 1756cc 1756cc 1756cc 1756cc 1756cc 1756cc 1756cc 1756cc 1756cc 1995cc 1995cc 1995cc Spider 1968 124AS Spider 1969 124AS Spider 1970 124BS Spider 1971 124BS Spider 1971 124BS1 0033950 Spider 1972 124BS1 0047032 Spider 1973 124CS Spider 1973 124CS 0059592 0063308 Spider 1974 124CS1 0071650 Spider 1975 124CS1 0088792 Spider 1975 124CS1 Spider 1976 124CS1 0099909 Spider 1976 124CS1 Spider 1977 124CS1 0113343 Spider 1977 124CS1 Spider 1978 124CS1 0126001 Spider 1978 124CS1 Spider 1979 124CS2 0142649 Spider 1979 124CS2 Spider 1980 124CS2 0157654 .5 132A1.5 132A1.040.if the first digits are correct then you have the correct size engine in your car.4 132A1. Check your engine number with the chart on this page.5 132C2.031.031.this usually indicates an engine swap at some point in your car’s history.5 132A1.031.040 125BC.040.

9A 132AC. If you read “28/32 ADHA 1/100” then you can simply note that you have a “28/32 ADHA”.0 124AC. emissions control modifications.com.000 132AB. Send him your engine displacement and casting number via email: pete@mirafiori. The numbers following the letters indicate things like factory jetting. 1995 1995 1995 1995 1995 Comments 1968 124 Spider 1969 124 Spider Sport Spider 1972 124 Coupe Sport Spider 124 Coupe 124 Coupe 1972-73 Sport Spider 1974-76 Coupe. Depending on the construction of the carburetor body. Casting Number 4166393 4198994 4232871 4232974 4238527 4239436 4239436 4268803 4277590 4304781 4314402 4325215 4326319 4348553 4371507 4372281 4372291 4372297 4372748 4406111 4439644 5992129 Other Casting ID 124AC 124AC 124AC. Because it is possible (and oftentimes desirable) to install an earlier cylinder head on some blocks.What's in your Car? Cylinder Head Identification Cast into the top of your cylinder head is an embossed identification number. 1995 1592.2C 132AC. or on the lowest mounting flange on the intake side. It may in a different location altogether but should be fairly easy to spot. Carburetor Identification Weber stamped an dentification number on your carburetor body. Include as much of the casting number as possible along with the year and model of the vehicle.000 132AB. The variations are minor but almost impossible to track.1A. The number may be quite long.000 124AC. note whether or not your carburetor was original equipment on your engine.000 124AC. 1995 1995 1756. Using the chart on the next page. etc. you need to identify if such a swap has occured on your engine. Carburetor swaps are extremely easy on FIATs and are the focus of much of this document! . this number may stamped between the middle and lower halves of the carburetor.000 124AC. Spider 1973-1974 Spider Late 124 Spider 131 Early 124 Lancia Scorpion 131/132 and 1981-82 Spider 1980 Lancia Beta 1977 Spider 131 131 1979 131 & Beta Coupe 79 Carb Brava 1984 Spider 124AC 134AC. For example: 28/32 ADHA 1/100 or 32ADFA5 1/105 The important thing to note is the numbers before the letters and the letters themselves.OC Original Engine Displacement 1438 1438 1608 1608 1592 1608 1608 1608 1756 1592 1756 1995 1608 1756 1592.6C 132.2C What if your casting number is not on this chart? Do not be alarmed. 1756. this chart is a work in progress and its contents are maintained by Pete Angel. but the primary information is in the first few alphanumerics.1A0 134AS 132AC.C8.

1979 and 1980 has the largest manifold and it is nearly flat on top. This second type is often used because it fits the 2000cc engine better than the older 4-2-1 design. If there are two distinct sections. dealerships. you have a “dual plane” manifold. The first type has a small collector and does not have an oxygen sensor socket. Some owners of the 1979/80 cars have installed the fuel injected type 4-2-1 system.What's in your Car? Carburetor Identification (continued) This information is valid for FIAT Coupes and Spiders imported into the U. The first design is traditionally called the “4-1” or “four into one” system. The Spider 1608 and 1592 manifolds are very similar to the 1800 but typically have only a port (for the brake booster). Spider 1438 manifolds are not interchangeable with other cylinder heads because they lack the coolant passage rearward of the #4 intake runner. It is much more curved in appearance. A steel downpipe connects to the manifold and merges (collects) the two pipes into a single pipe that routes underneath the car. no reference has been made available that accurately categorizes them. one from each cylinder. Although there are identifying numbers on the castings. Vehicle Year 67 68-69 70-71 71-73 73 74 75-76 77-78 79-80 Displacement 1438 1438 1438 1608 1592 1756 1756 1756 1995 Carburetor 34 DFH 26/34 DHSA 28/36 DHSA 28/36 DHSA 28/36 DHSA 34 DMSA 32 ADFA 32 ADFA 28/32 ADHA Coupe and Spider Coupe and Spider Coupe and Spider Coupe and Spider Coupe and Spider Coupe and Spider Coupe and Spider Spider Spider 2000 Exhaust System Identification Identifying your exhaust system is actually quite easy . Look in your engine compartment at the exhaust side of the engine. The second is known as the “4-2-1” type. There may be a metal heat shield on top of the exhaust. It can be identified by a large collector with an oxygen sensor socket.there are no numbers or charts to compare and all you really have to do is look in your engine compartment. Owner-imported cars may have dual carburetors or different models as original equipment. . FIAT used two basic system designs on carbureted engines. If there is a single hole and a large chamber then you have a “single plane” manifold. It has a “waffle” pattern cast into it and several ports for emission control equipment. The Spider 1800 has a more simplistic manifold with four pipes (one per cylinder) and space between the pipes.S. If you cannot see under the shield you may need to remove it (with the engine cold!) to see what you have. The easiest way to identify what you have is to remove the carburetor and look at where it bolts down. terminating into a single large pipe that routes under the car.S. There are two types of the 4-21 manifold. It is very angular in appearance. Identification without removing the carburetor is more challenging. it will have three 13mm nuts securing it down. one for the primary barrel and one for the secondary. The 4-2-1 type has a 4 into 2 cast manifold. The Spider 2000 . This was the standard type for carbureted engines. The 4-1 type will have four short pipes. and sold through U. 1800’s have a “Christmas tree” of ports on the front. Intake Manifold Identification FIAT used two basic types of intake manifolds on carbureted engines.

FIAT’s belt-driven DOHC configuration has been duplicated by most other auto manufacturers. a car that you start in the morning. FIAT were producing 1HP per cubic inch of displacement in the 1960’s. It had a carburetor upgrade and a nice exhaust system.enormous V6 and V8 engines that barely produce ¾ of a horsepower per inch of engine displacement. and enjoy. Third. Sure. You need to define how you want your engine to perform so that it suits your needs. You have 350 and 400 cu. It was a rebuilt block. in engines producing under 300 HP Alfa Romeo and .000 miles? Most of us desire the latter. cylinder head modifications. If someone contradicts this. it produced more horsepower than I projected. Do you want to build a 200HP Spider? It can be done. with a standard FIAT engine block. with a 903cc engine that produced around 62 horsepower. Judge for yourself. it surpassed my expectations in terms of how smoothly it operated. Look at it this way: I used to own a FIAT 850 Spider. Underneath the hood of your Spider is an engine that was designed to perform efficiently and reliably. it got better fuel economy than I ever expected. high compression pistons. has few mechanical problems. drive all day (even in traffic). Now look at it another way: Lots of car companies state that their engines are “high performance” just because they produce more than “x” horsepower or “y” torque. But look at what these companies do to produce this power . . supercharging. and can last for 50 to 100.Performance What is Performance? Performance is a relative term. Without getting into a history lesson. And. lightened flywheel and connected rods. I was getting 62 HP from a 903cc engine with a tiny carburetor and antique cylinder head design! Relative to my expectations (I expected it to perform well) it was a high performance engine. they are not aware of the potential of the FIAT DOHC design. the engines produced around 100 to 120HP but which one is higher performance? It's up to you to define performance in . Second. Do you want a (slightly less expensive) 100 to 120HP Spider that gets good gas mileage. etc. all bored out and with a nice polished cylinder head. In terms of performance it was a high performance engine. A high performance engine is not necessarily fast and a poorly performing engine is not always slow. you can work on it in your garage with minimal expense. It is elegantly simple and wonderfully effective. How? First. terms of what you want your car to do. unlike most engines made today.

And if any of the five things above have not been attended to in a while. but you really should get a feel for how your existing setup operates before trying to change anything. enjoy your car. Coolant: make sure the cooling system is properly filled. Gas: Fill up with the highest octane you can get from the pump. If you do want to make some changes then keep reading about the different options you have available to you. start poorly on cold days. points. If you have Marelli electronic ignition (1979-1985) be sure the vacuum advance is working properly. 3. wires. Oil: FIAT recommends 15W40 oil and a new filter with every oil change. Ignition system: as necessary. etc? At the point where you are completely comfortable with the current operating condition of your car. condensor. do you really want to start changing things? If not then don’t be ashamed. . In other words. How fast is the car from 0 to 60 MPH? How responsive is the throttle? How good is your gas mileage? Does the car do bad things. Prior to doing that you have to know exactly how it operates in its current state. 7. 4. happy with the way everything works. Things to check/replace prior to getting started with any modification: 1. Why do I recommend you do all of these things? You are getting ready to make changes to how the engine breathes. Do not baseline your engine with fuel additives . you cannot intelligently move from point “A” to point “B” when you don’t know what “A” really is. etc. dwell setting. Fuel filter: Use a new filter or replace with a clear filter. ask yourself: is it good enough? If you are happy with the speed of the car. distributor cap. rotor. Once you’ve done the things above. head type. like foul spark plugs. points gap. Set the ignition timing to exactly what your car’s instruction book calls for. vacuum advance capsule and hose.use a fresh tank of gasoline (and nothing else).) you are already on your way to establishing a baseline for your engine’s performance. 2. new plugs. coil. drive the car and make observations. pickup. Carburetor: Clean it and lubricate the mechanicals with 3-in-1 oil. you’ve lost track of what “A” really is anyway. 5. 6.The Baseline Using the information you’ve already gathered (engine type. Valve lash: make sure the valve lash is within specification. The recommendations in this section are optional.

The third option. trumpets. These tend to rust so check yours and replace if necessary. The performance type is. and hangs properly under the car. Many vendors do not stock them for this reason. Your only job is to use what they have to meet your needs. These are typically four long runners into a single collector and are made of thin steel. These components provide admirable service for street use and do not impair the performance of a good street engine. Install (or continue using) a FIAT 4-2-1 exhaust system. Three options are available: the stock type. and a straight pipe. results in a different exhaust note. a straight piece of 2” pipe from each cylinder is not “free flowing” . 2. My experience with the twin-tip “performance” exhausts is that they result in a louder (some say “throaty”) exhaust note but do not improve performance. etc. consider them a cosmetic change. replacing the 4-1 exhaust that you already have. basically the exact same thing with a black powder coating. They are more efficient and help you obtain more power. a honeycomb type catalytic convertor (if necessary). You may have to modify early Spiders to accommodate the twin-tip style muffler. Behind the catalytic convertor is a center resonator. but keep in mind that ALL of these designs are generally unrestrictive and well suited for street use. a stock center resonator. the same company) and is around $75. The stock ANSA/TESH rear section is more than adequate for street use. Other types of tips (certainly the “trumpet”) are much louder and less restrictive. The stock type of resonator is adequate for nearly any kind of street use. unfortunately for those who buy them. If you do (and if it is old) consider replacing it with a free flowing unit. There are roughly two options when discussing the pipes from the engine to the catalytic convertor (or at least under the car if you have no catalytic convertor): 1. The exhaust “tip” (the part that sticks out under your rear bumper) is available in stock and performance versions as well. etc. and stock rear section. You can also get various types of straight pipes. length of the runners. If nothing else. First.it will result in awful engine operation. the curves. it also sounds better. is generally well made. a “performance” type. there are some basic ideas that need to be understood. I have not personally found them to be any more efficient than the stock 4-2-1 system.Exhaust Systems I’m starting with the exhaust system because the necessary changes are universal for the DOHC engines. This results in better flow and much better high end performance. It is typically manufactured by ANSA (or TESH. size of the pipes. a straight pipe. Without getting into exhaust system theories. I believe that everyone should run a 4-2-1 front section or performance header. In other words. . They are louder than an iron stock exhaust and many people swear by them. Underneath the car you may or may not have a catalytic convertor. Install a custom-made header. Frankly. People who design exhausts spend time in planning the way they work. These units use a platinum honeycomb core rather than stones to do their job. an exhaust system needs to be as unrestrictive as possible while still providing adequate back pressure for engine operation. located just in front of the axle. Many of you will be able to skip this section as you already have an adequate exhaust system.

Intake and Carburetion Intake Manifold As discussed earlier. The advantage of a mechanical secondary is obvious: regardless of engine speed and load you can deliver more air and fuel to the engine as you require it. better passing ability. Over the next few pages we will discuss the types of carburetors FIAT used and which one will be the best fit for your car. The single-plane type is necessary for any carburetor with a mechanical secondary. selected by FIAT or FIAT vendors as suitable for use on our engines. The most obvious example is the Spider 2000 (1979 and 1980 carbureted models) with the Weber ADHA and dual-plane manifold. The ideal intake manifold is the one used on the 1756cc engines. If your stock carburetor was installed on a dual-plane manifold and you intend to retain that carburetor. These concepts are explained in the next topic. It will fit on every DOHC cylinder head and fit all of the Weber carburetors described in this document. A single plane manifold is essentially a plenum chamber in which both carburetor barrels add to the mixture. The chart presented in this topic will educate you in the basic operation of the carburetor and if you should consider swapping it out for another unit. Also discussed in this section are the true upgrade carburetors. The chart on in this section splits carburetors into two primary categories and then into secondary categories. . The result is much better acceleration. the dual-plane is typically used when the carburetor has a vacuum-operated secondary. These components were designed to function together. A vacuum operated carburetor uses intake manifold pressure to open the secondary barrel at a specific point in time. The carburetor acts exactly as your foot requires. continue to use the stock dual-plane manifold. the secondary category is type of cold start device. the Weber ADHA carburetor is designed to begin opening the secondary barrel at around 3500 RPM under a running load. It is a more fuel-efficient design and is a good bit smoother during transition to the secondary barrel. A dual plane manifold separates the barrels into two plenums and then independently into each intake runner. there are two basic types of intake manifolds. For example. These concepts are as follows: Type of Operation: Vacuum or Mechanical. The primary category is type of operation. and better throttle response. Carburetors Carburetors are the most likely reason you are reading this document. any other carburetor on the 2000 manifold is restricted in its efficiency. At rest you can often completely depress the gas pedal and redline the engine without the secondary ever opening -. Because they are available brand new they may be a great option for those of us not wanted to rebuild an old carburetor. It is a fairly compact single-plane manifold with few ports (so you need to do less work blocking these ports off). You’ve already done the work in identifying which carburetor you have on your car.all because the engine (at rest) doesn’t generate enough pressure to pull open the secondary. A vacuum operated secondary will not act in such a fashion. The ADHA on any other manifold performs poorly. A mechanical carburetor uses two gears or a lever system to always open the secondary barrel when the primary barrel is at a certain angle.

The choke engages automatically and all operation is also automatic. Prior to starting the car the driver will fully depress the accelerator and release it. As it heats up the choke flap begins to close. manual choke) Automatic (Water) Choke ADHA ADF / ADFA ADL Electrical Choke DFEV . Electrical A cold start device is known as a “choke” to us Americans. Carburetors by Type of Operation. the driver does nothing but start the engine. Operation is then automatic. 1960’s and most 1970’s Spiders have mechanical chokes. More elegant in operation. A manual choke is operated by a cable-and-knob with the driver pulling the knob out to engage the choke or in to disengage. An electrical choke has a temperature sensor that operates in place of the coolant mentioned above. It is necessary for cold mornings when fuel doesn’t want to atomize. thus setting the choke. Type of Cold Start Device Vacuum Operated Secondary Manual Choke DFH DHSA Mechanically Operated Secondary DMS / DMSA IDF (no secondary.Intake and Carburetion Type of Cold Start Device: Manual. Automatic. It is typically a flap of metal over the primary carburetor barrel that restricts the flow of air (resulting in a rich mixture). An automatic choke is operated by routing coolant into a special chamber on the carburetor. Inside the chamber is a spring that expands when hot.

The diaphragm pulls a rod that opens the secondary barrel. It is designed for emissions control and not performance and is to blame for much of the 1979/80 Spider’s sluggish operation. Difficult to find parts for and generally notorious for secondary vacuum leaks. used on very early Spiders. Type ADHA has a 12 volt solenoid that is turned on when the key is in the ignition. Difficult to find parts for and often hard to rebuild correctly. It is difficult to find parts for the DHSA series. The DHSA2 and later models were used from 1971 through 1973 and offered larger primary and secondary barrels. The ADHA and DFH The ADHA was installed on 1979 and 1980 49-State Spiders (or those not imported into California). Rebuild kits are also available but some of the items are simply impossible to find. and ADHA The DHSA and DHSA2 The DHSA was installed on the original 124's up to 1971.Intake and Carburetion Vacuum-Operated Carburetors: The DFH. although the vacuum operated secondary diaphragm can still be had new. DHSA. the DHSA is not a popular upgrade nor is it recommended as a candidate for a rebuild. ADHA and DFH carburetors are not easy to rebuild. Both operate using a large vacuum operated secondary located near the secondary barrel. The ADHA has a tiny 28mm primary barrel and a 32mm secondary barrel. this carb should be removed and replaced with a later. Type ADHA and DFH are easily identified by the vacuum canister (diagram M and 12). . The canister diaphragm is actuated by intake pressure. If the solenoid is bad the carburetor will not be able to idle. mechanically-operated model. the ADHA can still be purchased new. The DFH is rare. unless absolute originality is required.

and reliable.meaning fewer things to leak. even when purchased new. DHSA. Large. and even the DMSA has few emissions control provisions. and like the DMSA has few emissions control provisions. Also fits under stock Fiat air cleaners for those wishing to maintain originality. including the 1979 and 1980 cars. This heater pipe has the necessary fitting for running the ADFA’s waterheated choke. and still is.Intake and Carburetion Mechanical Carburetors with Manual Chokes: DMS The 34DMS / DMSA The DMS/DMSA series was. The DMS can be an impressive performance increase over stock DHSA and DFH carburetors. If you intend to use the DMS on a later model car (where the throttle lever is cam-box mounted) then you will have to order a different throttle "pull" assembly for the carb. a DMS carburetor will bolt right on to your Fiat. It has a mechanically operated secondary and automatic choke. Vehicles will still pass 49-state emission control laws. A great performance increase for all Spiders not originally equipped with the ADFA. Automatic choke retains originality for stock and later model cars. Inexpensive. or break! Mechanical Carburetors with Automatic Chokes: ADF. You will then have to run coolant hoses from this heater pipe and the intake manifold to the carburetor choke assembly.and retains fuel economy. you will have to install the heater pipe (runs under the exhaust manifold) from a 1975+ model year Fiat 124. wellbuilt. You can retain the originality of the mechanical choke yet gain a good amount of performance (the DMS is a more powerful carb than a DHSA). It will also fit under one of the stock Fiat air cleaners if you intend to do so. extremely popular. and retains fuel economy. and ADHA owners . It has a mechanically operated secondary and choke. ADFA. Impressive performance increase for DFH. The DMS series is simple with few ancillaries . . link up. If you intend to use the ADFA on a pre1975 model year car. If you intend to use the ADFA on a later model car (where the throttle lever is cam-box mounted) then you will have to use the throttle "pull" assembly from your ADHA. and run. ADL The 32ADFA The 32ADFA is probably the most prevalent Fiat Spider carburetor on the "used carbs" circuit. the 32ADFA bolts right up to the Single-Plane manifold (used on the 1756cc cars) and can therefore be installed (with the manifold) on any Fiat 124. This is easy to replace and costs about $10. Anyone can learn to install and tune a DMS carburetor. stick.

range. actually) as a bolt-on performance improvement for 1975+ Fiats. You will then have to run coolant hoses from this heater pipe and the intake manifold to the carburetor choke assembly.and retains fuel economy. Nearly identical in manufacture to the 32ADFA. It is an effective and simple system. and ADHA owners . Can be used under Fiat air cleaners. A great performance increase over any stock Fiat carburetor. not including the Single-Plane manifold (if needed) which average about $75. It has a mechanically operated secondary and automatic choke. The 34ADF is expensive . Parts interchange with ADF and ADL series carburetors . A great performance increase for all Spiders not originally equipped with the ADFA. and like the DMSA has few emissions control provisions. including the 1979 and 1980 cars. Solid and extremely reliable. Large.average price is $400 to $500.p. Has an automatic choke. Automatic choke retains originality for stock and later model cars.Intake and Carburetion The 32ADFA The 32ADFA is probably the most prevalent Fiat Spider carburetor on the "used carbs" circuit. although a "free flowing" type is suggested. you will have to install the heater pipe (runs under the exhaust manifold) from a 1975+ model year Fiat 124. Vehicles will still pass 49-state emission control laws. The 34ADF One of the best carburetors made for the 124. Requires the Single-Plane manifold to operate efficiently. the 34ADF was provided (by Fiat. improving performance throughout the entire r. Available new. . DHSA. If you intend to use the ADFA on a pre1975 model year car. Vehicles will still pass 49-state emission control laws. wellbuilt. This heater pipe has the necessary fitting for running the ADFA’s waterheated choke. Impressive performance increase for DFH. the 32ADFA bolts right up to the Single-Plane manifold (used on the 1756cc cars) and can therefore be installed (with the manifold) on any Fiat 124. and reliable. Also fits under stock Fiat air cleaners for those wishing to maintain originality.and these parts are easy to find and cheap. If you intend to use the ADFA on a later model car (where the throttle lever is cam-box mounted) then you will have to use the throttle "pull" assembly from your ADHA. the 34ADF lacks the emissions control ports of the ADFA and has larger primary and secondary barrels.m. If you intend to use the ADFA on an pre-1979 model car (where the throttle lever is manifold mounted) then you will have to use the throttle "pull" assembly from your ADF and ADL Carburetors have a water activated choke mechanism (76). Hot water tensions a spring that activates a lever (64/65) and holds the choke plate (66) open.

Note that the DFEV requires a positive lead (energized by the ignition key) to operate the electric choke.) Hard to find.Intake and Carburetion existing ADFA or DHSA carb. ADL carburetors. the ADL was designed for the Lancia Gamma 1995cc and 2800cc cars (neither of which were sold in the U. The DFEV eliminates the need for the water choke hoses running from the head and to the intake manifold. The 36ADL and 38ADL Similar to the ADF series in most respects. This heater pipe has the necessary fitting for running the ADFA’s water-heated choke. A more modern design than the ADL or ADF. You will then have to run coolant hoses from this heater pipe and the intake manifold to the carburetor choke assembly. If you intend to use the ADFA on a pre-1975 model year car. like the ADF. available new from parts vendors and with two huge barrels. the ADL series can add serious performance where a single-carb is required. the DFEV offers the same basic benefits (and the same difficulties when mounting to a pre-1979 engine). you will have to install the heater pipe (runs under the exhaust manifold) from a 1975+ model year Fiat 124. have a water-activated automatic choke. Mechanical Carburetors with Electrical Chokes The DFEV Our deviant from the manual/water choke fold is the electric choke DFEV.A.S. .

consider the following solutions: For Spiders currently fitted with DHSA.ask for it or have it drilled by an experienced carburetor shop. It will work with your existing linkage and choke mechanism and provide an instant power and reliability increase. Purchase a Weber 32ADFA and install it. the 34ADF may have to be modified to operate it (consult with your vendor). I can make some recommendations that should help you along. etc. are all factors to consider. Depending on engine displacement you may have to decrease the main jet and idle jet sizes. remove it and block off same.Intake and Carburetion Carburetors (continued) Which carburetor should you run? Your idea of performance. remove it and block off same. your best bet may be finding a used Spider or other vehicle fitted with the 34DMS. Given some rather ideal circumstances (as in. It will work with your existing linkage and choke mechanism and provide an instant power and reliability increase. modifications. For those who already have the 1756cc manifold. For Spiders currently fitted with DHSA and DFH Carburetors Purchase an 1756cc intake manifold. If the cost is prohibitive then consider rebuilding or replacing the 32ADFA you already have. But TRY the 55 first. engine displacement. results of your baseline test. The 32ADFA is no slouch and if it is in good condition can perform admirably. The 32ADFA will bolt right up . if your idle jet is currently 55 you should go with a 60. For Spiders currently fitted with ADHA Carburetors Purchase an 1756cc intake manifold. These carburetors were available new just a few years ago but may be hard to find today. It's a great compliment to the 2000cc engine. Remove from it (and block off) all ports except the brake booster pipe. Remove from it (and block off) all ports except the brake booster pipe. Note that not all 34ADFs have the vacuum port for the distributor advance. money is no object). Remove from it (and block off) all ports except the brake booster pipe. Consider purchasing a Weber 34ADF. Also consider the 34ADF on the 1756cc intake manifold. Install a 34DMS carburetor from an a 1974 Spider. or DFH For DHSA and DFH owners. Install a 34DMS carburetor. Early ADFA Spiders may have a lever type throttle assembly. purchase an 1756cc intake manifold. . For Spiders currently fitted with ADFA Carburetors For those who already have the 1756cc manifold.install your choke hoses and vacuum advance and away you go! It will require increasing the size of the main and idle jets by 5 in other words. If you run the stock ignition system then you need this port .

valves.if you can replace the head gasket then you can replace the cylinder head. etc. retainers. I generally send the heads to a machine shop for surfacing. In most cases (1438cc. etc. If you wish to learn about the engineering behind cylinder heads. bead blasting and (when necessary) installing new valve guides (the early brass valve guides are not as durable as the late steel type. Your existing 1995cc cam boxes. Why? Because a performance head with stock cams and carburetion is a waste of time. keepers. It will result in a car that really runs well. there is no magic to doing it .find someone who has done what you want to do first. Porting and polishing are techniques that your machine shop can assist you with. will all fit perfectly.Intake and Carburetion Cylinder Heads The cylinder head on your car is likely the correct one for the model year. . theories of combustion and airflow. cups (if necessary). FIAT cylinder head parts are pretty darn cheap ($70 for all eight valves). then purchase a copy of Guy Croft’s book Modifying and Tuning FIAT and LANCIA Twin Cam Engines. Place the gasket on your block and make sure that ALL of the passages line up. etc. The smaller combustion chambers result in increased compression . Getting the ports and chambers opened up (ported) and shiny (polished) results in better airflow throughout the cylinder head. and shims. get a head gasket made for the cylinder head you want to install (ie a 1438 gasket for a 1438 head).desirable for performance. you can expect better acceleration and better performance at high speeds. From “seat of the pants” observations made by myself and many others who have performed this modification. To test yours. Springs. Best yet. valves. 1756cc. Retainers. Cylinder heads are not necessarily compatible between engine displacements. Better airflow=more power. Do not assume that blocking any passage is OK (though some are) . This document is really not designed to take you through the steps of rebuilding a cylinder head. But the 1995cc (2000 Spider) engines can benefit from the slightly smaller combustion chambers of the 1756cc cylinder head. 1608cc. 1592cc) I say to stick with your existing cylinder head. It is easy to spend over $1000 on a performance cylinder head . wheels.and the results may be only 1-2 horsepower over a well assembled and clean head. You’ll need high lift/duration camshafts and a carburetor more powerful than any of the stock units (at least a 34DMS or 34ADF). I then assemble the head myself with new springs. Bead Blasted Head with new Valves. Head surfaced by machine shop note the mirror-like finish. consider buying or rebuilding your head. If you are running a 20+ year old cylinder head with no idea of its history. check/replace yours).

Recheck the mixture screw by turning slightly in then out. Adjust the idle to approximately 850 RPM. On automatic chokes you can use a small clamp or wire to pull the choke mechanism open. Adjust the idle speed screw until the engine runs at approximately 900 RPM. Check Factory Settings Do not rely on the factory settings unless otherwise directed by your vendor. If the engine increases in speed then continue to turn until it is no longer increasing or runs worse. Now turn it back out two full turns. you will find the same general steps in any publication on setting up carburetors. Start and warm the Engine Disengage or block the choke open. Set the idle speed screw so that the engine runs at 850 RPM. Let the engine warm up to operational temperature. Back out the idle speed screw (see figure) until it is no longer in contact with the throttle stop lever. Engine speed should be set . The engine should start and run poorly (if it does not then increase the idle speed screw ½ turn until it does). On a Spider you will wait until the fan has cycled two times (on-off-on-off).to the fastest and smoothest point of operation (listen for exhaust popping). If the engine decreases in speed then turn the screw out until it is increasing in speed. then back the screw out ½ turn.do not force the screw. Turn the mixture screw in (lean the mixture). then turn the screw in ½ turn.Tuning Single Carburetors Preliminary Settings Note: These is the recommended procedure per Weber with some modifications. . Final Settings Note: should the engine fan come on during these steps STOP working until it shuts off. Now turn the screw until it contacts the lever and again 1 ½ turns. Continue to turn until it is no longer increasing or runs worse. Reset the idle speed screw as necessary.using the mixture screw ONLY . or 900 RPM if you have air conditioning. Turn the idle mixture screw (on our carburetors it is typically in the center bottom of the carburetor body) in until it is fully seated .

linkages.html. and demonstrate your ability to really tackle carburetion. The Weber IDF is available in 40. This appendix deals with this subject and includes excerpts from an article by Mike Richmond (msrichmond@aol. The original air cleaner (”turtleback”) sells for around $250 used. look at. Dual Weber 40IDFs were also used by FIAT as a standard system on the 1608cc 124 Sport Spider. Front View. Each barrel is fully independent of the other and can be tuned as such. and 48mm configurations. 40mm is the most popular and is sold as a kit by many vendors. synchronous operating units. gaskets. The two models used on FIATs are the Weber IDF and DCNF. and operate. 44.com) which is available in its entirety at www. Solex and Dellorto configurations are not listed because they are not available new and parts can be nearly impossible to find.Dual Carburetors The Mystique Dual Webers are just plain neat to work on. Many FIAT owners consider installing twin Webers on their FIAT engine. These carburetors are downdraft. It generally sells for just over $1000. They require special manifolds to work . carburetors. They are loud. Barrels share only the fuel bowl and accelerator pump. If you can find an original setup it will have a FIAT intake manifold and the original linkage setup. and many have taken the plunge.mirafiori. Dual Carburetor Configurations There are configurations that you should consider if you want to work with twin carburetors. These setups are selling in the $700 range without the air cleaner. They are both Weber products. powerful. The kit includes the manifold. Weber 40IDF13/15 as original from FIAT 1608 Spider Top View Manifold with Carburetors Complete Configuration with “Turtleback” air cleaner . two-barrel. and air cleaners.com/faq/content/idf. so each cylinder has a unique runner to its own carburetor barrel.manifolds without plenums.

Dual Carburetors Dual Carburetor Configurations (continued) The second popular configuration is the Weber DCNF. your dual setup will end up with richer idle jets to compensate. But so is Pavrotti. available in 40 and 44mm sizes. a new 34ADF (the big brother of the 32ADFA on 1756cc twin cams) is about $450 new. What about a bigger single carb? It’s certainly cheaper and quieter. but the operational principles are the same as the IDF. a set of DCNFs will cost more because the manifolds are a bit more expensive.and used ones command ~$250). Generally speaking. I get 27MPG highway with my 40IDFs at 65MPH in a 1756cc engine with 9. How much power will I get? About 25% more than a stock single carb. the picture is muddier. the choice is yours. The original turtle-back air cleaner produces a mellow bass note that is not substantially louder than a single carb. the opposite effect occurs. RPMs are in the sweet spot. And if your engine is bad shape and needs a rebuild. Especially since you can add high compression pistons or trade up to a 2 liter short block. However. On the highway.more fuel. this may be a better idea because low RPMs and idling are less efficient in a dual carb setup. In the suburbs I get 20MPG. The 40DCNF is a more compact and modern design. power and emissions? Convert to fuel injection. . that’s where you should put your $1000. but it’s not as much fun. the manifolds are also a bit higher in quality and design than the IDF manifolds. I have used both and have been very pleased with them. they are when you open them up. pumping losses are lower and mileage can be higher. If emissions testing is strict be careful about going to dual carbs. Compared to fuel injection. FIAT used IDFs so many people choose those. Want a good combination of fuel economy. which is very restrictive. Are they loud? With free-flow air cleaners. The free flow air cleaners are much cheaper than a turtleback (by 8X even assuming you can find one of the two new ones rumored to still exist. You are literally doubling the venturi area when you go to dual carbs over stock. Ultimately. You have a lot more area for the same amount of air leading to low air flow in each barrel at idle and low RPMs. For example. To get good drivability. more emissions. Free flow air cleaners also allow you to see the carbs.8:1 compression. since stock specs show that FI adds 20% to the twin cam. If you do a lot of city driving. The air velocity through the venturis is too low in a dual carb setup for optimal air/fuel mixing.

. Any used dual carb setup will often require a rebuild kit at $40/each. The advantage of this air cleaner is that it is much quieter than free flow air cleaners. and the fact that the carbs are virtually invisible when installed making adjustments more of a chore. What’s the difference? You can thank the VW dune buggy crowd for the fact that 40IDFs are available new at all. The advantage of this manifold is that it has coolant jackets like the single carb manifolds do.50* yes* no 40IDF-13/40IDF-15 (OEM) yes yes no 32mm 125 210 . for faster warm up and for cold days. would only apply to 1608 models with a special accelerator pedal. It is rare. Finally. the carburetors that are available new today are 40IDF-70s and these are different in several details from the 40IDF-13 and 40IDF-15 that were designed for the Fiat twin cam application. and even if it was.S. cable linkage and might win Concours points but is actually a poorer design since it can wander as the engine moves around on its mounts. and if you go looking for used IDFs you may find a set configured for VWs for <$250 used.-made variety) and you may be off to a bargain setup. you won’t find it in new parts. The original linkage for connecting the center linkage between the two carbs to the accelerator pedal is also NLA. you can buy all the venturis and jets needed to match the twin cam. Is this the original factory setup? If you are looking for 100% authenticity. although NOS examples have been reported available from Faza.55 yes yes * all of these items are addressed by the supplier when you buy a new 40IDF kit for the Fiat twin cam. The carbs will have been modified to link together in the center and they will have venturis and jetting for your application. The original Fiat factory manifold (called the waffle-top manifold because of the grid pattern cast on it’s top) was made by Cromodora and is no longer available new. But you will still have to find a manifold and modify the right side of one carb and the left side of another to link them in the middle.Dual Carburetors I saw a dual IDF kit in a catalog. Add a manifold to fit your Fiat (~$100 new for the U. This was a mechanical vs. The major disadvantage is cost. But whether new or used the typical VW configuration is different than what Fiat engineered: 40IDF-70 Carbs link in center PCV valve for original air cleaner. The original factory air cleaner (called the ‘turtle back’) is an enclosed black or gray steel air cleaner with an oval element. vacuum port distributor advance venturi size main jet air corrector idle jet cold starting device air horns Not without custom modification* No yes 28mm* 120* 185* . The difference in time and money spent on jets means that a set of used -13/-15s on a used manifold will command $200-$300 more than the VW-style IDFs used at $250. If you get a ‘good deal’ on used VW-style 40IDFs.

You absolutely need a device to measure the amount of air drawn into the carburetor barrels (available from most vendors or carburetor shops) to tune these carburetors correctly. you will master them in a very short amount of time! . Install them right and be scientific and you will have them humming after a couple of weekends. Then leave them alone. The UniSyn gauge (another type of metering device) is not recommended for tuning IDFs. Set the mixture by turning the mixture screws . Turn in all four air bleed screws until they are seated.one at a time. These are finesse carburetors. Balance the airflow between barrels using the synchrometer. A fourth type is available from most motorcycle shops and has four gauges which each attach to the vacuum port at the base each carburetor (next to the air bleed screw). Quick Tuning Guide First. turn until it begins to decrease or run worse then in ½ turn. Easy work. This will fit nicely into the ram pipes (velocity stacks) of the IDF 13/15s. but most people make the mistake of failing to install them right the first time (especially used ones) or they change too many things at once. Fine tune as necessary using similar steps. reset the carburetor to its basic settings. Are they hard to tune the first time? They shouldn’t be. Adjust the one with the lowest reading to match the one with the highest reading by adjusting the air bleed screw. then back out 1 ½ turns.Mike Richmond (who wrote the majority of this appendix) says “Not if you stick with a tried and true formula: set them up and tune them. Now compare the airflow on one carburetor to the other and balance them using the center link balancing screw. The preferred unit is the Type SK (vs. Adjust the idle stop screw (between the carburetors) so that the engine idles (even if poorly) around 900 RPM.Dual Carburetors Are they hard to keep in tune? Opinions vary . turn the screw out and speed will increase. First measure the air in both barrels of a single carburetor. Screw in all four mixture screws until they seat. I refer to ALL of these devices as Synchrometers in the next topic. This device measures the amount of airflow into each barrel. mind you) four times a year. at least in Atlanta I found myself jetting up or down (just the idle jets. Replace the needle/seat and clean them every 24. If the engine speed begins to decrease reverse this operation. if the engine speed begins to increase keep turning until the speed begins to decrease or run worse then back ½ turn. Repeat for the other carburetor. First turn the screw in. In the meantime. the Type BK) Synchrometer with adapter number 18.” My experience has been that they are generally seasonal. you will learn to curse in Italian.000 miles.

Weber IDF .

027 41655.108 47600.006 47600.085 47407.126 32610.085 37022.251 58000. 61450.109 64830.126 64520.110 34710. 79701.002 34715.001 47600.035 45034.207 58445. 83102.003 55520.016 41540.013 73401.008 52000.001 64005.006 47600. 71506.024 61002.100 64700. 41565.004 Dia Qty.003 61002.006 41030.003 34725.015 47600. Not Serviced 45034. 52580.010 41530. 77401.250 61015.023 12750.010 64700.243 .005 32650.010 64290. 69002.014 76210.003 Not Serviced Not Serviced 64955.005 64750.005 10525.008 41535.062 64750. Req’d 32 1 33 1 34 1 35 1 36 2 37 2 38 2 39 2 40 4 41 1 42 1 43 1 44 2 45 2 46 2 47 2 48 2 49 2 50 2 51 1 52 1 53 1 54 1 55 5 56 1 57 1 58 1 59 1 60 2 61 1 62 1 Description Pump Cover Pump Diaphragm Fixing Pin Pump Diaphragm Spring Vacuum Take Off Cover Air By Pass Screw Air By Pass Screw Nut Throttle Plate Throttle Plate Fixing Screw Air Horn Gasket Throttle Return Spring Throttle Lever Choke Tube Fixing Screw Choke Tube Fixing Screw Nut Fixing Screw Main Jet Emulsion Tube Air Corrector Jet Emulsion Tube Holder Float Float Pin Needle Valve Needle Valve Gasket Top Cover Fixing Screw Fuel Inlet Pipe Pump Adjustment Rod Spring Clip (Cotter Pin) Pump Rod Nut Fuel Pipe Gasket Fuel Inlet Plug Throttle Shaft Part Number 32486.007 64625. No.002 47610.003 64700.252 41705. No.002 52570.Weber IDF Dia Qty.003 74405.029 34705.022 10005. Req’d 1 1 2 1 3 1 4 2 5 1 6 1 7 1 8 1 9 1 10 2 11 4 12 2 13 1 14 2 15 2 16 2 17 1 18 2 19 2 20 2 21 2 22 2 23 4 24 2 25 1 26 1 27 1 28 2 29 2 30 2 31 4 Description Air Horn Pump Control Rod Carburetor Top Cover Stud Pump Rod Spring Carburetor Main Gasket Fuel Filter Fuel Filter Gasket Fuel Filter Cover Pump Demand Valve Pump Jet Gasket Pump Jet Pump Spill Auxiliary Venturi Main Venturi (Choke Tube) Stud Throttle Lever Throttle Spindle Nut Lock Washer Spring Rod Sealed Bearing Idle Jet Idle Jet ‘O’ Ring Idle Jet Holder Throttle Stop Screw Spring Throttle Stop Screw Pump Rod Spring Mixture Screw ‘O’ Ring Cap Mixture Screw Spring Mixture Screw Pump Cover Screw Part Number 52848.001 79511.004 55530.

Weber ADF / ADFA .

053 45069.014 12750.013 34715.008 Not Serviced 64695.118 32486.501 41565.003 61280.009 37022.001 43928.034 10015.004 64895.081 45067.018 64700.092 47407.010 47600.011 41555.014 55520.012 41565.052 52135.027 14850.021 64565.005 41530.010 41565. No.010 55510.304 55525.005 55510.042 47600.069 10140.030 45041.016 58000.008 47600.004 83102.008 70512.016 41640.090 64520.006 Not Serviced 39152.* 47605.004 34710.103 45067.016 64595.115 10140.037 64560.048 55530.092 Not Serviced 64010. Req’d 54 1 55 1 56 1 57 1 58 2 59 1 60 1 61 1 62 1 63 1 64 1 65 1 66 1 67 1 68 1 69 1 70 1 71 1 72 1 73 1 74 2 75 4 76 1 77 1 78 1 79 1 80 1 81 1 82 1 83 1 84 1 85 1 86 1 87 3 88 1 89 1 90 1 91 1 92 1 93 3 94 1 95 1 96 1 97 1 98 1 99 1 100 1 101 2 102 1 103 1 104 6 105 2 Description Bushing Lever Lever Screw Washer Spring Screw O-Ring Spring Spring Throttle Stop Screw O-Ring Top Cover Gasket Shaft Pump Loading Spring Diaphragm Accelorator Pump Cover Spring Ring O-Ring Housing Top Cover Screw Screw ICU Solenoid Washer Plate O-Ring Idle Jet Spring Washer Nut Auto Choke Body Gasket Water Choke Element Choke Lock Ring Screw Gasket Screw Water Choke Cover Water Cover Gasket Choke Actuating Lever Screw Screw O-Ring Screw Pump Loading Spring Diaphragm Throttle Valve Shaft Choke Plate Fixing Screw Dust Seal Plug Dust Seal Plate Top Cover Fixing Screw Carb Washer Part Number 12775.003 61070.019 52000.274 64525.002 52570.102 55520.097 47610.013 Not Serviced Not Serviced 41575.001 41705.002 52135.095 47600.029 64615.049 10085. 61440.039 47600.091 64755.001 45046. 76407.019 55530.001 74409.008 32444.019 41565.010 Not Serviced 47610.264 55555.001 55510.070 79510.004 61002.019 12750.010 74403.001 34705.034 64700. Req’d 1 1 2 4 3 1 4 1 5 1 6 1 7 1 8 1 9 1 10 2 11 1 12 2 13 2 14 1 15 2 16 1 17 2 18 1 19 1 20 1 21 1 22 1 23 1 24 1 25 1 26 1 27 1 28 1 29 1 30 1 31 1 32 1 33 1 34 1 35 1 36 1 37 1 38 2 39 2 40 2 41 1 42 1 43 1 44 1 45 1 46 2 47 4 48 1 49 1 50 1 51 1 52 1 53 1 Description Top Cover Assembly Top Cover Stud Plunger Fuel Screen Plug Float Pin Brass Float Needle Valve Gasket Needle & Seat Air Corrector Jet Pump Jet Emulsion Tube Main Jet O-Ring Auxiliary Venturi Capsule Screw Idle Jet O-Ring For Idle Jet Holder Idle Jet Holder Carburetor Body Base Spacer Gasket Shaft Bushing Bush Retaining Spring Cam Shaft Lock Tab Throttle Spindle Nut Rod Spring Ring Spring Washer Nut Washer Lever Washer Bushing Lever Spring Bushing Lock Washer Screw Screw Carburetor Base Assembly Carburetor Base Bushing Secondary Throttle Shaft Throttle Valve Screw Primary Throttle Shaft Shaft Spacer Spacer Spring Nut Shaft Lock Tab Part Number Not Serviced 64955. 73801. 31800.002 64610.002 Dia Qty.016 41565. No.Weber ADF / ADFA Dia Qty.015 41015.007 64625. 41565.010 32384. 41565.047 47610.273 64005.102 41575. 77201.092 34715.116 64590.010 10015.060 55530.007 64372.034 .015 50002.027 64700.027 10000.

Weber ADHA .

149 47600.004 41555. No.304 55510.118 32486.005 .069 52135.001 57804.004 83102.001 76407.175 64565. * 47600.034 10015.011 41530.002 64565.055 64590.019 Not Serviced 47600.006 41565.* 70508.002 64610. No.102 41575.008 10140.008 55510.018 31800.075 45069.034 64700.027 Not Serviced 55520.014 55520.011 55510.019 37022.034 64700.001 74409.055 55530.018 61070.094 64895.010 55510.039 64560.031 47407.171 47407.011 31800.003 64570.019 41565.156 77201.274 64525.010 64750.081 34705.137 Not Serviced 12775. 50002.080 47600.009 64700. 73801.001 64700.010 64895.003 Not Serviced Not Serviced 10140.Weber ADHA Dia Qty.092 41565. 61440.054 47610.450 41705.021 41640.321 Not Serviced 41565.029 64615.003 12750.005 43903.016 58000.010 Not Serviced Not Serviced Not Serviced 64520.047 41565.027 Not Serviced 55555.008 52570.010 39152. 47600. Req’d 58 1 59 1 60 1 61 1 62 1 63 1 64 1 65 1 66 1 67 1 68 1 69 1 70 1 71 1 72 1 73 2 74 2 75 1 76 1 77 1 78 1 79 1 80 1 81 1 82 1 83 1 84 1 85 1 86 1 87 1 88 1 89 4 90 1 91 1 92 1 93 1 94 1 95 1 96 1 97 3 98 1 99 1 100 2 101 2 102 1 103 1 104 1 105 3 106 1 107 1 108 1 109 1 110 1 111 1 112 1 113 2 114 1 Description Throttle Shaft Fixing Nut Shaft Lock Tab Throttle Lever Spring Bushing Lever Screw Mixture Screw O-Ring Flange Carburetor Body Spring Screw Capsule O-Ring Washer Top Cover Fixing Screw Idle Cut Off Solenoid Wavey Washer Plate O-Ring Idle Jet Pump Loading Spring O-Ring Pump Jet Auxiliary Venturi Top Cover Gasket Diaphragm Accelerator Pump Cover Dust Seal Plate Dust Seal Plug Screw Starting Device Spring O-Ring Spring Diaphragm Pump Loading Spring Cover Screw O-Ring Screw Washer Top Cover Screw (Long) Auto Choke Body Gasket Choke Element Choke Lock Ring Screw Water Cover Gasket Water Choke Cover Gasket Screw Spring Ring Throttle Valve Choke Shaft Choke Plate Fixing Screw Screw Part Number 34715.002 74403.008 47600.051 41565.005 61002.001 55525.049 47407.092 32384.004 52000.007 64372.103 Not Serviced 47610.024 47407.070 79510. Req’d 1 1 2 4 3 1 4 6 5 1 6 1 7 1 8 1 9 1 10 1 11 1 12 1 13 3 14 1 15 1 16 1 17 1 18 1 19 1 20 1 21 4 22 2 23 2 24 1 25 1 26 1 27 1 28 1 29 1 30 1 31 1 32 1 33 1 34 1 35 1 36 1 37 1 38 1 39 1 40 1 41 1 42 1 43 1 44 2 45 2 46 2 47 1 48 1 49 1 50 1 51 1 52 1 53 4 54 1 55 1 56 1 57 1 Description Top Cover Top Cover Stud Plunger Top Cover Fixing Screw Plug Fuel Screen Needle Valve Gasket Needle & Seat Brass Float Float Pin Auxiliary Pump Cover Auxiliary Diaphragm Spring Screw Power Valve Cover Diaphragm Air Corrector Jet Emulsion Tube Main Jet Spring Diaphragm Screw Screw Washer Capsule O-Ring Idle Jet Holder O-Ring For Idle Jet Holder Idle Jet Shaft Bushing Bush Retaining Spring Lever Shaft Lock Tab Throttle Spindle Nut Rod Arm Lever Spring Ring Washer Nut Lock Washer Washer Bushing Spring Retainer Spring Bushing Washer Screw Screw Lower Body Bushing Primary Throttle Shaft Primary Throttle Plate Secondary Throttle Plate Screw Secondary Throttle Shaft Washer Spring Wavey Washer Part Number Not Serviced 64955.501 64010.004 34710.016 64595.144 55530.046 41565.001 32444.004 41565.+++ 41015.163 64565.034 64695.002 45027.002 Dia Qty.103 12750.013 Not Serviced 41575.008 47605.001 32386.052 57804.010 55510.298 52135.015 32486.

Weber ADHA .

Weber DFH .

Weber DMS / DMSA .

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