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Published by: ukeypravin on Feb 27, 2011
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Seam Engineering in Apparels

By: Neelam Srivastava

The tiniest unit of a garment is fibre which. the greater is the strength. lubrication of machine and to thread can successfully lead adding quality to apparels and its manufacturing. fibre size and shape. for estimating the strength there are certain formulas that are developed for different kinds of fabric strength. normal loop strength SPI*Thd. As in lockstitch threads are interlocked rather than inter-looped. further takes shape to yarn and threads. More of sewing machine thread tension will lead to reduce of the seam strength along with many sewing problems. Now. thread size. This is clearly visible when we compare lock stitch and chain stitch. here we will talk ‘what is seam engineering. and weight through which it is identified.01 bs*1. the more is the strength of the seam. leading to weakening of the yarn. how apparels are generated. Threads similarly play a vital role in Apparel Industry in construction and stitching of garment. Stitch and seam construction: Present quality measurement standards of apparels ASTN. too many stitches might damage the fabric as picking at one place increases.301 lock stitch or 401 chain stitch Thread strength. it also leads to production loss with increase in the puckering number. Threads of various types are now available and each one has its own tickets no. However. Right from the beginning of conceiving an idea for designing arrangement and finished with a brand name.Seam Engineering in Apparels By: Neelam Srivastava When apparel industry is concerned. strength*1. Lock stitch is one in which thread is locked both sides of the fabric and starts with 301 lock stitch. AATCC for evaluating the toughness of sewing threads.Single end breaking strength of the threads measured in Pounds. strength*1. This again varies as per the fabrics where.7 = estimated Seam Strength For e.g. The more thread a stitch consumes. 10*4. 1) 301 lock stitch formula 401 chain stitch formula SPI* Thd.5* = estimated seam strength For e.g. Another concept attached to seam strength is SPI (stitch per inch). we first start thinking.’ Seam Engineering It includes seam and stitch construction. . which engineering is playing an important role into it. parameters of threads and. A manufacturer should be more careful while making a choice of thread for a garment. How to estimate seam Strength Now. It undergoes more shearing as compared to chain stitch and over edge stitch. machine type. One who is aware of quality. They are conducting comprehensive test using a modified crokometer.5 = 601 bs 2) For apparels. 10*4. This includes fiber type.7 = 681 bs 3) For Woven Fabrics Stitch Type. Factors for Seam Strength Abrasion Resistance: this is an important factor for upholstery. Revolution in thread manufacturing has ensured the availability of thread quality as per the fabric demands. Machine Adjustments for stitch tensions Greater seam strength can be obtained by adjusting the sewing…threads tensions. footwear and in carpet manufacturing as well as into apparels.this again goes back to the words that more is the thread in the seam. thread construction and.01 bs*1. threads controls and eyelets etc.

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