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Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE

I. PURPOSE OF GUIDE LS - 1

II. FACTORIES PRODUCT SAFETY TASK FORCE


COORDINATOR GUIDE & PROCEDURES
LOCKSTITCH BUTTONING MACHINES OPERATING & CONTROL
PROCEDURES

1. Button Attachment Control Procedures and LS - 2 ~ 4


Maintenance Program

2. Cause and Corrective Action For Buttoning LS – 5 ~ 6


Problems

3. Lockstitch Button Sewing Machine Suppliers LS – 7 ~ 9

4. Button Attachment Statistical Process Control LS - 10


Procedure

III. FORMS (to be completed by Field QA & Product Safety Officers) :


1. Buttons Attachment Strength Test LS – 11 ~ 12
(Pre-production Control)

a) Blank Form LS – 12a


b) Sample LS – 12b

2. Lockstitch Button Attachment Capacity and SOP Check LS - 13

a) Blank Form LS – 13a


b) Sample LS – 13b

3. Check Record of Even Attachment Tension for Bobbin LS - 14


Thread

a) Blank Form LS – 14a


b) Sample LS – 14b

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

I. Purpose of Guide

The purpose of the Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control


Procedures is to ensure that sewn-on buttons on each garment will last a
life time. It completely provide guides to ensure all the buttons are
securely attached on the garments and avoid buttons falling off. It does
provide control measure in helping the factory understand the proper
maintenance program.

The Guide also consists of the following sections :


a) Button Attachment Control Procedures & Maintenance Program
b) Cause & Corrective Action for Buttoning Problems
c) Lockstitch Button Sewing Machine Suppliers
d) Button Attachment Statistical Process Control Charts

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 1
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

II. FACTORIES PRODUCT SAFETY TASK FORCE


COORDINATOR GUIDE & PROCEDURE

LOCKSTITCH BUTTONING MACHINES OPERATING &


CONTROL PROCEDURES

1. Button Attachment Control Procedures and Maintenance Program

Buttons
All buttons must meet the following minimum performance requirements:

Two Hole Two or Four Hole Two or Four Hole


Ligne Size <14 14-21 > 22
Minimum 1.65mm/0.065in. 1.65mm/0.0625in 2.0mm/0.0750in.
Thickness
Center/Breaking 7.7 kg / 17lbs. 7.7kg / 17 lbs. 10 kg / 22 lbs.
Strength

Machine
Vendor must clean button attachment machines on a daily basis to avoid any fluff,
which could snag the thread and cause missing stitches/passes.

Bobbin
Vendor must clean bobbin area on machine to remove fluff and dirt twice a day (4
hourly) :
• During lunch break
• Before a shift change or before a worker finishes work for the day

Needle Size
The correct needle size must be used. Needle size prefer #11 to #16 is the best for
button attachment.

Needle size selection is also a key point to note and in recommending a particular
needle size to be used, the vendor need to take into consideration the garment
construction, fabrication, and number of ply being used to apply to the garment.

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 2
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

Condition of Needle
A faulty needle is one of the primary causes of button attachment defects. A faulty
needle must be replaced before production can be allowed to continue. Examples
of faulty needles are:

a) No bent needle
b) No tipped needle

Operator need to change the buttoning needle at least twice a day, to


Ensure the needle is in good condition.

Faulty Needle Check


An operator can check whether a needle is bent or tipped by rolling it on an even
smooth surface. If a needle will not roll smoothly on the surface, it is defective and
must be changed immediately before production continues.

Thread Tension
Thread tension must be adjusted in a right position.
a) not too loosen
b) not too tighten
Thread tension must be properly adjusted as it may cause missing stitches (i.e. 2
holes instead of 4 holes).

Note : Always adjust bobbin thread tension first.


No sewing operator is allowed to do any adjusting on the machine.
All adjustment must be made by the mechanic or technician.

Button Attachment
• All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch buttoning machine.
• Button must in a complete stitch pattern.
• 100% check of complete stitch pattern for baby and kids.
• Only polyester or polyester/cotton wrap threads are to be used. 100% cotton
thread should be used for current dye programs only, when buttons are
attached prior to dyeing.
• All buttons must withstand a direct pull force of 17 lbs. for 10 seconds.
• Lockstitch buttoning characterized by 2 “Rabbit Ears” and Knot on back
side, prefer 1/4” thread length and must not be trimmed off.
• Button attachment must be attached with a minimum of 16 passes.

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 3
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

Missing Stitches/ Security & Tension Check


On the machine, the thread remaining on the needle must not be too short, the
minimum length being at least 3” long. This will prevent the thread from slipping
out of the needle eyelet at the start of sewing or sewing from the middle of the
predetermined stitches.
Note : The above reason is the cause for missing or skipped stitches on one side of
a button.

To overcome the problem of skipped or missed stitches and evenness of thread


tension, this simple procedure must adopted by every operator:

• When a bobbin case is refilled with thread, perform the first (1st) button
attachment on a piece of interlining before going into actual production.

• When the bobbin thread in the bobbin case is depleted, the last button sewn
from the depleted bobbin must always be removed from the garment.

• Record of P.O #, Style #, date and time of procedure must be clearly


recorded and kept as part of standard operating procedures.

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 4
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

2. Cause and Corrective Action For Buttoning Problems

Problem Cause Corrective action


1. The needle thread A) The needle thread • Decrease the tension of the thread tension
slips out of the remaining on the needle controller.
needle eyelet at the is too short.
start of sewing. • Adjust the timing to release the tension disc
B) The material used flaps. of the thread tension controller.
2. The machine starts
sewing from the C) The wiper does not • Apply the needle hole guide with a higher
middle of the catch the thread. boss.
predetermined
stitches for sewing • Apply the button clamp jaw levers with a
a button. thinner plate.

• Correct the spring of the wiper properly.

3. The needle often A) The needle hits against • Adjust the position of the button clamp jaw
breaks the button in the area levers so that the needle enters the center of
around the holes. the holes in the button.

B) The tip/point/ball of the • Adjust the position of the feed plate to


needle hole guide comes prevent it from coming in contact with the
in contact with the boss of the needle hole guide. If the sewing
recess of the feed plate. size specified is too large, use the feed plate
for medium-sized buttons or that for large
buttons.
C) The needle used is too
thin. • Change the needle of another count
according to the sewing product to be sewn
or the holes in button to be attached.

D) The knotting mechanism • Adjust the timing of the knot-tying


comes in contact with mechanism or its stroke so that the knot-
the needle. tying plate does not come in contact with
the needle.

4. The finished state A) The needle thread • Increase the tension of the tension
of the stitches sewn remaining on the needle controller (thread discs).
on the underside of is too long.
the material is
extremely poor. B) The wiper clamps the • Adjust the timing to release the tension disc
thread with an excessive of the tension controller.
clamping force.

C) The bobbin thread • Decrease the pressure of the spring of the


tension is too loose. wiper.

D) When using buttons • Use the exclusive bobbin case (provide


with round sole, tangled With an idling prevention spring)
stitches may result on
the wrong side of the
material.
PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999
LS - 5
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

2. Cause and Corrective Action For Buttoning Problems (cont)

Problem Cause Corrective action


2. The knot-tying A) The timing of knot-tying • Adjust the timing of the knot-tying
mechanism fails to mechanism is not mechanism or its stroke so that knot-tying
secure the end of correct, or its stroke is plate does not come in contact with the
the thread with not proper. needle.
consistency.
B) The needle hits against • Adjust The position of the button clamp jaw
the button in the area levers so that the needle enters the center of
around the holes. the holes in the button.

C) The tension of the • Decrease the tension of the tension


tension controller is too controllers.
high.

D) At the time of stop- • Adjust so that the tension disc is released at


motion, the tension disc the time of stop-motion.
is not released.

E) The needle is caught in • Use a thinner needle.


the reinforcement
interlining.

3. The button is not A) The button clamp jaw • Adjust so that the button clamp jaw levers
attached on the levers do not securely securely clamp the button.
predetermined clamp the button.
position on the
garments. B) The pressure of the leaf • Correct the leaf spring of the button clamp
spring of the button jaw levers so that the spring pressure is
clamp jaw levers is decreased.
excessive.

C) When using a button with • Replace the button clamp jaw levers with
round sole, the thread those with a thicker plate.
enters the section
between the sole of the
button and the surface of
the boss of the needle
hole guide. As a result,
the button fails to be
smoothly moved
during sewing.

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 6
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

3. Lockstitch Button Sewing Machine Suppliers

1) BROTHER

a) Model # LK3 - B438E


- B438 with a ‘E’, is an electronic lockstitch button sewer machine.
- No button feeder is available for model # LK3 - B438E.
- It can be used for attaching buttons with 2, 3 or 4 holes, and has
22 different types of built in programs available.
- For different types of buttons, the desired program can be selected
by using a switch on the control panel.
- Backtack sewing method help to prevents the thread from pulling
out at the sewing start and unraveling at the sewing end.

* Please take note for model without an ‘E’ behind the number, is a
Mechanism lockstitch button sewer machine (model # LK3-B438).

b) Model # LK - B448E/BA-16
– B448E with a ‘E/BA-16’, is an electronic lockstitch button
sewer with auto button feeder machine.
– It can be used for attaching buttons with 2, 3 and 4 holes, and
has 22 different types of built in programs available.
– The adoption of Brother’s unique back tack sewing method
ensures that the thread will not unravel.
– A double-check function for button feeding prevents sewing
operations from continuing when no button has been set.

2) JUKI

a) Model # LK-1903SS
- 1903SS, is an electronic lockstitch button sewer machine.
- It prevents thread fray from the end of sewing.
- The machine provided as standard with 33 kinds of patterns and
the pattern can be changed over by one-touch simple operation.

b) Model # LK - 1903SS / BR-25


- 1903SS with a / BR-25, is an electronic lockstitch button sewer
with button feeder.

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 7
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

3. Addresses and contact numbers

Juki Corporation
Japan
Juki Corporation International Sales Division
8-2-1, Kokuryo-Cho, Chofu-Shi
Tokyo 182, Japan
Tel: 03(3430) 4001-5
Fax: 03(3430) 4909-4914-4984

Hong Kong
Juki (Hong Kong) Ltd.
Units 1901 & 1911 - 12
Level 19, Metroplaza Tower II
223 Hing Fong Road
Kwai Fong, N.T., Hong Kong
Tel: (852) 24237888, 24238608, 24237906 (Parts)
Fax: 24237121, 24237151 (Parts)

Singapore
Juki (Singapore) Pte Ltd.
159 Sin Ming Road
#07-02 Amtech Building,
Singapore 575625
Tel: 5534388
Fax: 5525565

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 8
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

Brother’s Lockstitch Button Sewing Machine Supplier

Japan
Brother International Corporation
15-1, Naeshiro-cho, Mizuho-ku,
Nagoya 467-8561
Telephone: 81-52-824-3393
Facsimile: 81-52-824-3390

Hong Kong
Brother Corporation (Asia) Ltd
Suite 1103,
Chinachem Golden Plaza 77 Mody Road,
Tsimahatsui East,
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Telephone: 852-2723-4198
Facsimile: 852-2723-1776

Singapore
Brother International Singapore Pte Ltd
No. 1 Phillip Street #06-00
Lippo Centre,
Singapore 048692
Telephone: 65-538-0311
Facsimile: 65-538-7003, 1020

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 9
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures
4. Button Attachment Statistical Process Control Procedure

a) Pre-production Control = Button Attachment Strength Test

* Before wash mock seam

- Apply 5 buttons sewn to a mock seam (before wash)


- Button attachment strength must withstand a direct pull force of
20 Lbs. for 10 seconds.

* After wash mock seam

- Apply 5 buttons sewn to a mock seam (after wash)


- Button attachment strength must withstand a direct pull force of
17 Lbs. for 10 seconds.

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 10
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

III. FORMS (to be completed by Field QA & Product Safety


Officers) :

1) Lockstitch Button Attachment Strength Test (Pre-production


Control) - refer to form LS – 12a

Generated by

Factory authorized staff e.g. Task Force Coordinator

When

Every new order sewed with sewn on button.

Why

The purpose is to ensure the fabric; sewing thread and the


button are secured and can withstand a direct pull force of 20
lbs. for 10 seconds (before wash) and 17lbs. for 10 seconds
(after wash).

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 11
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

1) Lockstitch Button Attachment Strength Test (Pre-production Control)


- refer to form LS – 12a (cont.)

Procedure
• Please refer to the button attachment statistical process
control procedure for more details.

Production Control = Checked Appearance (Button


Attachment)

Construction review: Appearance and security of button stitching

• A 100% check must be conducted on buttons sewn-on garments.


• The total quantity of production done at every 2-hour interval
must be collected, serial number of machine recorded and
quantity noted before 100% inspection begins.
• Three criteria must be noted during the audit :
• Buttons are sewn with a complete stitch pattern;
• The “Rabbit Ears” and knot are clearly visible on the back
side;
• The first and last button tension check which is
characterized by missing or skipped stitches on one side of
a button..

Note: All button attachment defects are considered criteria


defect. If one is found during the audit, a 100% re-audit of the
whole production is required.
Line supervisor must trained by appropriate button machine
supplier annually.

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 12
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

2) Lockstitch Button Attachment Capacity and SOP Check


– refer to form LS – 13a

Generated by

Factory authorized staff e.g. factory QC.

When

Apply 100% check every two hours per day per order.

Why

The purpose is to ensure all the buttons are security attached


on the garments and avoided button falling off. Additional it
is a control measure in helping the factory management to
track the production.
Procedure
• Please refer to the button attachment statistical process
control procedure for more details.

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 13
Lockstitch Buttoning Machines Operating & Control Procedures

3) Check Record of Even Attachment Tension for Bobbin


Thread - refer to form LS – 14a

Generated by

Factory authorized staff e.g. button sewing operator

When

The initial refilled and the ending of each bobbin thread.

Why

The purposes are to ensure all the buttons are security attached
on the garments, as to avoid missing stitch and caused button
falling off. Additional it is a control measure in helping the
factory management to track running production.

Procedure
• Please refer to the button attachment statistical process
control procedure for more details.

PRODUCT SAFETY HANDBOOK 1999


LS - 14
Product Safety
Button Attachment Strength Test - (Pre-production Control)
Vendor: Factory:

Garment description Machine model / Number

Gap Style Number / Division Operator

Button Description / Size Type/Size of Thread & Stitch Pattern

No. of Buttons on garments Stitch Density (no. of stitches)/ needle size

Location on garment Fabric Thickness ( no. of plies )

Name of Task Force Coordinator Date

PRE-PRODUCTION SETTING - apply 10 buttons per style to a mock / faux seam which is same construction as the
production

Maintain 20 lbs. for 10 seconds before Maintain 17 lbs. for 10 seconds after
Sample washed Sample washed Remarks
Pass Fail Type of Failure Pass Fail Type of Failure

1 1

2 2

3 3

4 4

5 5

PS5 LS - 12a 1999


Product Safety
Button Attachment Strength Test - (Pre-production Control)
Vendor: Ponie Garment Factory : Intravest - Malaysia

Garment description Machine model / Number


BabyGap Girl Ctn Jsy Embroidery Collar Slip Dress (GW) LK-1851 / 00189 (Juki)

Gap Style Number / Division Operator


322103 (BGK) Mei
Button Description / Size Type/Size of Thread & Stitch Pattern
Polyester / 18L Polyester / #180 / 'X' Completed Stitch Pattern
No. of Buttons on garments Stitch Density (no. of stitches)/ needle size
3 16 Stitches / # 12
Location on garment Fabric Thickness ( no. of plies )
Half Front Placket 2 Fabric + 1 Interlining
Name of Task Force Coordinator Date
Anna Loh 7/23/1998
PRE-PRODUCTION SETTING - apply 10 buttons per style to a mock / faux seam which is same construction as the
production

Maintain 20 lbs. for 10 seconds before Maintain 17 lbs. for 10 seconds after
Sample washed Sample washed Remarks
Pass Fail Type of Failure Pass Fail Type of Failure

1 X 1 X

2 X 2 X

3 X 3 X Button fell off Button attached on uneven surface

4 X 4 X

5 X Button fell off 5 X Stitches incomplete, no lockstitch

PS5 LS - 12b 1999


Product Safety
Lockstitch Button Attachment Capacity And SOP Check
Vendor : Factory:

Model No. / Machine No. : Operator :

Task Force Coordinator: Date :

Style No. : Stitch Density (Nos. of stitches) :

Production Control - apply 100 % check every two hour. The initial refilled and the ending of each bobbin thread, button must sewn on Interlining.

The initial
refilled & ending
Time Complete 2 "Rabbit Ear" Complete Stitch Pattern (Cross or Parallel stitches)
of bobbin thread
record
Output TTL Defective Action Taken Output TTL Defective Action Taken Nos. Of Button

PS6 LS - 13a 1999


Product Safety
Lockstitch Button Attachment Capacity And SOP Check
Vendor : Ponie Garment Factory: Intravest -Malaysia

Model No. / Machine No. : LK-1851 / 00189 (Juki) Operator : Mei

Task Force Coordinator: Anna Loh Date : 23 July 98

Style No. : 322103 Stitch Density (Nos. of stitches) : 16

Production Control - apply 100 % check every two hour. The initial refilled and the ending of each bobbin thread, button must sewn on Interlining.

The initial
refilled & ending
Time Complete 2 "Rabbit Ear" Complete Stitch Pattern (Cross or Parallel stitches)
of bobbin thread
record
Output TTL Defective Action Taken Output TTL Defective Action Taken Nos. Of Button
10.30 AM 200 1- Knot on backside too Adjust bobbin thread 200 1-Missing stitches, due Check bobbin case

heavy stitches and tension and bobbin 2

stitches is too loose tension to bobbin depleted thread


1.00 PM 200 Nil Nil 200 1- Thread breakage Adjust needle thread or 2
bobbin thread tension
and it depends on the
type of fabric
construction and the nos.
of ply is being used

PS6 LS - 13b 1999


Product Safety
Check Record Of Even Attachment Tension For Bobbin Thread
Vendor : Factory:

Model No. : Machine No.:

Operator : Date :

Style No. : Stitch Density (Nos. of Stitches) :

Button attached Button attached Button attached Button attached


for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled
of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin
Time: Time: Time: Time:

1 2 3 4

Button attached Button attached Button attached Button attached


for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled
of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin
Time: Time: Time: Time:

5 6 7 8
Button attached Button attached Button attached Button attached
for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled
of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin
Time: Time: Time: Time:

9 10 11 12

PS7 LS - 14a 1999


Product Safety
Check Record Of Even Attachment Tension For Bobbin Thread
Vendor : Ponie Garment Factory: Intravest - Malaysia

Model No. : LK-1851 (Juki) Machine No.: 00189

Operator : Mei Date : 23-Jul-98

Style No. : Stitch Density (Nos. of Stitches) : 16


322103

Button attached Button attached Button attached Button attached


for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled
of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin
Time: 10:30 AM Time: 1:00 PM Time: Time:

1 2 3 4

Button attached Button attached Button attached Button attached


for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled
of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin
Time: Time: Time: Time:

5 6 7 8
Button attached Button attached Button attached Button attached
for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled for initial refilled
of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin of each bobbin
Time: Time: Time: Time:

9 10 11 12

PS7 LS - 14b 1999