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Fashion. From the 18th to the 20th Century

Fashion. From the 18th to the 20th Century

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Published by Maíra Cardoso

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Published by: Maíra Cardoso on Mar 14, 2011
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05/12/2014

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X~v: ,;U1J th~i1 i Iq ""'1)j~iI!il\l;U.lCtLlIl'J1f.!l.<IIlrL""· I i~,\Vin:n dl~'lit!~li,h QIl1mm "F WRlItlIl_P: ll~ 1111: Q)!-!!fIII .• yW~r_e .tllIld. L~'~'yi ng the 'i~';tl ;m b"""llIl~ptlIfIill~." IILUIIS tit.: .f1I't:llm, the rMr Ir-l11lunk d<lrt~ Irs fi'jd~ ;,ppr-.;m:!J:i~;;;. ~ !!J,\,MiJ~hl" ~r)'k rml'olOOJiell. nil; ~ki rB "\"L~c p!lHl ... ~ ~~,ru~sh I[~~ .1 !t~ rnr tl~ ~Jl]o::k~t!l i~ ':1"" ,",.II" of [~ Jh!;", Jnd cl!r~.,);\'d t>\'eJ"_ ~I~ ~.:~ j~! 4 ~,,.~~.titii .lll'r.m,b'l,mrLU 'l'ri~lmIJI]' ~""-"jl!!j' k \'>~r,ki l_'b..,diWil.ytJlfI~n [iii' ,~ ..

willie ~1'I!fill.j{ .::;r\'~.Ilkjllg tlgmlJ~l Ir~ .. ~W,,- !lh~ f'ad,i"1i ""'.ilt ~1lIG(<<llm~ ~ Ijl'!; ,._.t,~ .i ltl pqlrtl~ijr, J i1 dlj< ~ty~, Lh<: I:oilc~ <If d:.,; ~~Jn W~~ be!.:! up ,~, ~t'ri,t~ nlld olI;~!tk.,J int'D th, <'<! dt.lpll1!: l""rts.IJi.:,Ih!;~'~"'~idLvUdcd (fir>!'~ hy ! I,,!i;'l,' kiil~m'lcl 'iJl!77~, ~ndiE ~ said: ~1;~t ,the: It:nn ~ ~ltl pt,jg11l1/Jt dbl'hq f,rtllttI Lilis ~:;;:;Hrkl~ t"l.'L'IJI[. \1Q'I!~n the rle-~1:lJ ;~t liK bn.~~ «nt<!r a:J' II!~ r<;iJx. Wi!L't "'~'lj,J®wr~ :d~ dll' WIly L" I]I~ ",,<:ilil, d;~~.: .\" .. ~ 1l;l1L.·d 1t",~lI JimgkiJ.f, "it ~ ~ihn Slyle. A T(!tJr If '{IIw.hlr~ 'flmJm'c of~. rlT"1~ ... l!JliJi~ milt: ~mJ! a IM~iwilit

1.1,,,1 W'Il!IIJJwcb !turn u~~~rlfl<l r~ Iiw;JJto;', which ~I;L, ;l~i:J'Di:d ~~F'l';:n II,~ r".",,« elld. S"m(ljn~ tin!: rnb~ ~\ilII" wtlm wll:j,,~.1~ II p;l~l1liEr. it! t;liwinl!; !I~ Wtlllt:! ~!I~i}~ ~~dr t~ 1IL~,~h ~]~ dl1~l'~ of dlI? 'liI>l n, L_,,[H; J'U~4'L,~

me R..7o'uliur.iofl~ry pcriod, I.~~ ttI!Jild lnCl!!fll-Il1:r;t.lltd !h~ ~ruMild1",r ~IlJ ~kiH, ~lId: \'\1;11; trl!l1!!.Jmml'd imo 'H~I!.:-' p,i!'<l~ !I ~C5S. or "l1!ml~1 ,g.:""'.Iq,

tlu[in.sdJ~ .... ""~~mn ~~IlJ:L'l1r, ·PL""", "'~, Jnd ~lI'niU;: Ul!tm\"O;;I.l!lT"'. OOI1l5~J.L'Ilif ~I)~~[.fd, h~~ in!ilh~ ~~h,ec:m~ "I!;j~ 'I ry, rnfll'~ 1r.,~II,iyn Will; IfLlllX' smHC! ~~,J h~ fill ri~I" n~ .kt.!br,,~ fa ftm1fll;"". ~ '[Yr.i~J ~igllL" O=llIh-";,;'liimily :r-rroclJ. 5!U~!" 1;11ffii3t~. of:! ~'~r (If'Jkl/, ~.IL1oo j~'1lt1Jlr'lrfs m i!lij~ "'~Mitll. h r.o!o[lJ!Ll'l ",~,idn E~jj'!""Hf\b~_.u!ii~ n!t'ci in ~hJ~!!C. ~ "~.il.r""~J. ~m:lIx"",:I,~ A. 'o';'hil:i:" Ihmt, ~ j~t""t Jim. a. (;";I\lI'!', >!ImJ. ~ rtli r 'Df

,~

II~ ~~l:if;lln~ ,c=p4l!'ocld tn;:- nlt'm'~ w~. R.-:II,j,"f. (111l'1l\'I, imri;::are tl'lfl hmirll?l)l. dcaIlr.J![I'l't: I:imWJl5, ilIod ckib, ·!!I.lI~ pOO!)'l;JDf rhe i1~d, ,1II!!St, rlml "'1m "i~i1: Ih~ ['1ir~j[Ff.<lm ~1(i.il1i:im r~g<;'!:flk~lw.n dr,L;'I",,-,:I'ill rhe rii:JOOC" ') k. 1 n ~fliml'1r, 'I he OO~L md "'f.li>Lcm~ of nb.: tifl?lo.li ~rrii (tll-: &iU~ a '~fot'lr.:lf~) """I<'" ,;ieiJ,,)"~ilElf ,mhi .. i'!lmj~ ... ·ld~ '~,I.!" ,;~i<t;r. OInqlTl !!Ild<Jfi!.o:rn:J ItMl13ds, sr.qil<LirH, aJld mifoc:i..:iI iL;'\'i'd!;_, Mr!ll~j ",p}h~.i&-fr '11', ~ lJ;i.b~~wo:"r.:.' 1ol1I1IL"j!lur,fl~ d~g'[!1.M ~hi'l~tig,d, dl,,~h f~ j~'~ ur \\'.;1 i,~t'tl;I:u. \\!;I~,~rt<'l! ~!I thmid~Jed I" I,we IlIH~rill~!,fI'iil.:U IIlflll ooi:illd Inr:;tdicrul:' tkirlil.wrm· p.'ItwJ;l'J~.1b~i' "'!'; .. ~ !'II~"iJiL CL~ ~iJl:iS'l!\'Il1 ~D b, , P!~,~I<",n~.iI,iill,l!'I'id~[1[]1II !lft.ruJl mrns 1lG!;i.1JBru.~ on tile ia['-!' &::"t:n!:~l"J!h ~r~ilry, ~jiJii'!tl~d 'm 11!1 if!

IJ JII"iTL, f"'!_,; !f"~IIII;I~, "'~ ,etI!~'f~.;! l.':lml~h li~iI!fi,..eu", (FiOififlgr;Ji!') """'ULlAlPIOO, rar wwn .... 1!ilr ~~ 1II1J, illD~r,I];lili,;e:

I" 1'111.: rR:lOC~ cont, DlIu:il:if,ihc· blm lltiJf ",r ~,~ ~\~b]"'-;'I:h .... 111 LI I'}', It~ ]l'flOlld, vo!l'!'iiom Cifmh~ Eng,iiSh !look

L "~I, ,fJr PIE, JPllll'.arlNi, This '>\I';l~ ,[ jad,'r .... lth ~ tll!mt!tl do .... n wll~~, ~il!lr.!lI_r Cti~~[fY!;,r.ed f!f!ll1 ~ pJ:ili~I-fI,.\I~,~1 ic~,!lc.-'O" dlil ~ 'lftl~" ~~~j.liiUfl. '1,'f!p;!iLI, fl'Iu':l'I'Il>hiOt:aI1,~pfllmiu, lmd.tk'p;)Moc,m rOf dllibomt<.·ortnkOl· ,~ ~'1j 11]1l'JI~~ ~uii~Jlki!(p~l- ~(oi! I., ~I;;;, ~~liJ~ [~Illir <limpli:ciJry, rbcft:.;'!" .:oot.l1l~{d m L'!!" iI n~liJ:hml ~!i'llll!ifJ1.1cn's domiJIIg f_h.mll~~o!~ II~~ ~! 1!~~.'tI:!i.l, ..:! !r~l1', ;L!o"g wkh die jJ.1ffl;;)i;:,Ui1" ~b~~ .. ",~ru"i;]'IIy k'.i11..u:ed ~.~·dl<i~.

Luml'~'" t'tid I"i!ill; b'~~ll i'~liI!rn_~lr~fiiilLll sbeur \I:Ifi.uW~ iK:ll'i". ~mp[ifl~i rlfOIJl Llle' [~., :1 ~ [I~~ ~mmtb cern ~ U)', dl~ i m'po''l~! iru~ of rfLtilU~l1bk Uillm' ~tr~j1~~ ,,"'~ I"" ~~in .u. fiEW form olIf o:;(micL~m ~m.:l. uC:J,t.cd ~I ~il!~Lrit ,lOr thltt!YlrffM, CDLupla. GllIf'!\ll.{3WU~ f!.llYlJ.!; ba._">;,'il LM!' Ori.~~,,1 ~l'l!nI!i:ri~ :i!l!d ~t1.ljil<ll~.y ~l~pU~

~ ... ifi~l'i"'~1I!fI1 ~d~~l.-A~iw.;.c \V-.i!11!1!~1I3n<l Pmn~Dl~ f:kHJ~~.::r, wcl~o \!oIl!1"<: f~il]9IN OJ! ~~mc: Ch:in= ~tl)iM'l" ~oiiJ oJ~I~JIJ1i~" J'ii.i1.rn~tool"i~i;;; liNjdm{~" til!; sh!iill: f<'L~n W.il~ "riJ!n doc!ll:faood 'ilii[h Qrn:Ch:incs-c fumi:J:uJll:' ;Im~ 11~l[.,;d~~ll. ,all.:! .In [fu(' ~"l ii w{t! f1l.'! 1I1i1"Jrnm' "! !~, n i!d " .'~li!1I ",~fi!' ~i~(J ;!. p:I:.Iflcl.a. tJrCS'l~lilIl 'rI08_.",m:I· ~ ~ hll'1!'ii~!~ n~~- ([I ~~"_'I:i1,' tl:ll~iI", Will a.'I}'n1 nlL'1rirlil rnJtlf!fi'~ ~OOli:llW.ual ~tdor mtliiJ:;iili~li.oJh~I~,tI!,t1 i"'j'lll~ril.¥ ~t d,~ i~, I h~ ~b!~r.'r 0:<11 i.. ~kl Ili!r~1 ;k1101il~ .;md ·~J.di!l)' StiL'I1.~Ii1!ted iliJJ. int";l'~ in ~i;:;:;rrt:' "ilb, IlflK'lI mlbmi,l~ry. ~~kin' '1:,~,p....,,,,,,1 ill N~.,~~,~ (,oclt.:Jw eO'111lll fru>l~ .r">.'liJ!trlng. Cillirn~ l, llMcrI llfu~ ntl ml"l I'Ir dirk 1l1a[!~i5lh; 1!1I1I1ic ~lli ~~tlLiI;:i~m v,L1LUl~ hy lim: ~1Ji;OCt> rult~1:Il, ru ='Ni(Jf!<C'l. 'ofidiLl~ (;~lo:Iinll!l f:lnCl:, whidn !I.!~I tl(rn ;!11r",rt-"11 ~Lii'iclo in ELirupcan fil-iliill[l ,~ha.J;'e tlw: mnco::rnb ~lI:JIIIIJ')', "'l'l'<;n,"" ~;!!k..! "ii«'Ii~ tlii

I (,j'~~~lh~ ,:hfr",l/&;'t ,;11~l!IIuL~I~~ .t.lJmpo!lll1~. di.~ IlIi:i[·~c.:illiiil JrIJ!,inl ~ Ji:l."i Ilel' n[l:tiQI1~1 ,m~ u renl idilnl i_ty un~jl lillC bnCf ~I:!lr rlf d~ nil1i:1~~~i1tn ~ntury, ,-Yhrn I~II\ "J~pmh._f1'~ Ji~""~f!;l:i'~ I, ".k ,,,JYi,n EU.flDflt.I-li)'M\'et', ~~ "~fiy "5 I.h<: '-C'iiCII!UIlI.i! ;)md. d]];~t"~{'Jl[h~.ru:urIt~~i J[~1!.JiIDS~ kim'Jr!~~ Wrw: i"q~)rrr(ld lry ~.h~ 1)l1!dTilili~t~lIdili l"'Jli'r!p;1fl}' ,m.:!·'AAWII by k:1!~!Qp<';1D mi;JI 'l~:;;n il1l1m,JIl ~WI;, Sil1lSe th.: Wlllil" 'Jf ~ilWbfijlki~r~d J;iJ~I'!;~ ~li11Dno~ ~ limilcJ, !1J;~1 ~,;,w!'i~ !il".ki)ridltj,iiJ.~(lj~dlil:ill-dlliliJ[z)."PJX'Mo!ld [iii bdp !:;lriJyI:hc~i:'lml'LHII hL'Ilfffi'.1\" rn'Ik~ j,1p<lIJJiI:w '(!(:ktll ;n H(~I"'l(l. r¢M d1 dwt1/l~ d~l1tji~I1J!~ i.m ~mw;:. i1l1d il'.IlI::r-,;;ru; il, En~" I[,nd_ Llill.:t ~IJ' dlf'.i r .:lllil[l[' IrntLIJ1:i!,[~nd [,.-Irui I~ r~rily, tho:y ~~il!1~ SL'il~tI!i.~;J'rn~Iil, itl W<;;!ll'il, 1'11 .. ii1Jj~im.", ~ I~hual (II' PJi~W!i1 ~Y<t!:tilll~br!~ mil.':I. in 1 n~b" 1.1«".Imc £(I, O::KC;5~wdy Jil'lIputlu ilJIIwB E\P_rup<'il!i~ dw~q,~ ~ ~~ ~'!'f!;m;nij, '~~tllrJ" ,1," ~ ~~~!,.til.i.e, fi!~ .:i\~1pt'lk:-.d. til ~ [hi! impurr aJIIJ pmdllrdom Ili' bJ;{lm~". I~l~ ~

i75~, a~,~ '11i~ b:llil W[I" Ii(rd • h~ iHil1!lil1ig, incluOll:I)' im1]!H.olliH!d.l' ~tw .. A!w~ll1 iltrln~ l~rll~~ (;lilw~,m.::' rj'uyptl~! ~1X;iJ'iii!'o~odillIf '-'i'<:1ll::mGWm., C[,milJ~l_~ R Om.brnpf. wh!).~ ,,~, ~1"" I'~~_)i r:.'i~['lI}' ill dl~ ,~~" ill.'!> $i,l!l.,th 'lr !:li~[ n;.m~_ Ilroli~oofl:~IIl.lirndy .:!Icvd£l'Pm;::I1I~ in h[.ll h ~Jh}\(;i~ ~lid '~l~l'M'tlJ', -~'hfooYi !id[ill;;-~il ilill~Ot'i1lt~I\, ~ ifl~.;:i M:W p'!ifj~''''.I! ,~',JII!j iilue itil ~!bo< fir l:lie- aim:~mion.t! _r!5i~t.Jr~ing. UlJ1!dmd, :moll. ,~p;red :Lth'll1ilC't:d printi:.m~ t"-'lunKl'J~~ f"MU 1<'_j',~I,md .. l'tiruoo mrioo f:ibri~ b'?l.;llff!~ rhl' m:od I~j! llnly fmc.illll:URg.b!li,all-I) fm imtL:r.imrl!&Dr~tIi!:l!l11 ,bdr ~'i;'}:Ik: ~md ~fii~td Ilmlli"iJI~lliI_j il'"rlr.rrl~""~f': ~l'i"'Ollimg,;Lii'ld 'f,h~! w .. r.,- pri~d 11.,11\: ~LlIInFliI k-a:i Ir Lh;m ~Uk (lLb~k:5. r'rl[J[~ :rd{[IDi!,;~ ~pr~n~, "Ii ,,:J~ ')~r

[Limp!! .in IL!ftC Ei~rol:'II!tli ~rnllfy, j n i!i~itv mcl'd}, knlr., ri Il~ illdNrmtll, Ilie.1e b:t<'ll'r~, IIDJPlrOO lW.n;,,,,'I dt"L'~I!),pln~:f!ll.iUcl'l.J' rh mVlfM:ioo" ful"ooppc:rmlk:t p:lii'itiir!g 'Y5tem, ",hkl. mi!d~pos:!illli: 1II1L·1n.;_~ itl'l(hl£mm of F,rin-'d ~bl'j .. - IIo;.! pgpllbrity of COf.!C1II f"l ... .,-,.. o:bring I h' li~ ~II~ ~~ .I'ISI: rn d,,: ~bili: in lI!\lDf,OO I~Lt:rilil fur dmllinl!; Iirom@lk W CII[llll!l d!Jrir.IS rn~ Rc..nlul:;"i:('1I1:)' ~i!d_

As rll~ ",,,·i.fNI 11&fmr ILIi.:<'r~d M ~h~ "1Tl:)C of (011,11)"'" rill: fiJUr-m:m.i'tt'd .tTIOf.Ia' <tflc waned Ii,. dilrlpo:>rtnrlCe.. gll~ th.e ~nm. the lYpb.l "'''"Im'~ ,rl!olln 1:l:n1'l!1I\C Wil ~ lmy:- skin r'LI~IK;ci 'out Oil hmh sidll\l "'nil, II lvOdl! P:J.Ilruer JJ1d ~ M,!;h t'"i[illl' ..... hese aim "'''l'!IiI uft (h~ OC31inc;r Dr .. rtil"'--c. WDmtn'~ dro.:s "'" were 1l1~1 .0 much lil"lln of :lPI);Jfd ;r~ ~\¥l:'ffiJne ,m:llifeCl.lrlll mmUUC[IOIl ,,,"d e II, r f..ilrk.111.<' icli iii:'li i! m..'tiGi of "'''''11:0 !;ulIIJl rt' dis"p~ttiJ. and itl, &::tbr", ffi~tI~ W'I~ fi!pJ~ wii I!J the ]'001 TIl".!: ~bdbwj of l'Ile: R l\!l\Iull"".lbc Jl:lgollII'i,;; miITulti. J Ill!' \'1M,." and ootrlS~IilI"" 1 .... !i!1ld~.l;<;i:\Illrd[i.. P'>I;n.:j I!pnp~fioo. i!ht (I,,~k!'! t:I.i 01"11 hOSiC h",min:g slYd4m·.,. ~lhlJil~Jl'~ fiJ= looud lil,yl ramed ln d.or IXlI1tfi !!OF .u.:h mHI~I~Q#~ i'lTtammmnclill_ ("if. fLlI~t:\I \vm ufren l~rJ,""rCooUjl.h I:" O::"fliuio 11]~t:h: uf rbilll'.i!'o~.lrnnd!!mflt;l. ~ll'<;;!m~, fruil ~1o;I"ko;ll. iLI~d ~ii M'rn of odIC. ~~n.o:irui ~1~,lnon!;l,. I n ;-;i'<kr 11:1 dress ill J. iI.~I;~h kshiOrh, rtJiJf~ '!1~~f¥IR'!1SI?IlI) M'j\~ i'r.'<iIiRi:r~ tiJ b}1 ~~, OI~k.t[[lCr. ~nd. ".fi';iil(!l-~ 1lM'~LJ,I')FJiB~ry !""jrllt}dl::5. Jo mold. th~ hair, till: {:r<:!ldti~ f.riJ'~I-r1I\i'Jgmn[ ilIiiI..rlJfiLtfOll.lj~rrd~ -~ ~ C'S>cmi~1.. {\. ,;t.:l ~'i!:'IIrj]J fW:J:p:reII~in~ tIE trends ~.nw Wiil.~ b. it ltihl~} ~I];!! ~iom "&lSil![Dl\', AUu;1I&11Il:[lI1! r,,",kodK1lll rim h ..... J~.cd the IlIIC1-1' tad! lrul. b" F'aru had ~1ft'iloI~, an;:~ dl!!I!1!! iii, :'o't'IIIKlII'lft U:l1mry-. =~~IIIIL'W ~Jl,;! t"'lwJrt.am f.l5hi,," 'f~~ ~pr~1I1l, UJl illlh~ 1,n:.JkvoIuI''''MI}' I~i; I, Th;,je i!(.J:i!!.lecl U ]w.nwl,(." (;01.1117611 J nlll, '_,. C4fll'Irt ,f(1 MrrJ".~ (IH78!'). ill'Ld

I,ll G,'lltFit i/O. 111fin ,t'I' ~ Ul,riJi/,rlfhltllf<lJlf b7 8--1 118). "II of ... J.il:fu ILptll!3red, ~IVjll~ tilt ~Ol .. lit· I {! t1ie dsJrOOMfl1 ~niul)'. ln ehe I.I!'''T pm Il{ rI,1: 11 illL'!'H'1iI h .11IUI)'. wfi.l. rig; I!dp oJ iKh ,IIlCcd prifil i I1g [NbDlllUId)' ;mill tlk! Jevclopm~l. ,d' ",iiIood did i,'cry Jl'In:In1~, :..h I Ii 1'll:lg>J'''CIl b.."'{;il!Jl]e 5;1 i II 'Imlfl,' illll'''IfL~m SGl.mii!:l nrrNml-~<tI"'''''';mJ ~'wJ~' ill, 1k1llhli~NUfln~[u f;J;sh["ii1 ~u dmC'm[~~LL~ Ihdr ~!t'~li,"1l5.ln m~Iik.~1 ""JWI!iI~-' lu ~h~ enl':l~'~fJI"n£1;' !If coon ~ful" nj~, muu:1Ill ry du d.II"1iI 'b."dedl HI I:;,:; .;iIi1pk ibliJ e!llnrlJ01llbJ~_ ':Ill'" ~~~ ~r.imll,f dn~ iUltiiCll Ro:rnaIlIIlLi'I-" "H"JAm:U[Jj1o: .. ft1 .in I';'JIi ~m;,\!'id;:d dJ,e i.it!l"'nl!. fur ,1111 <'fili!!iIlin~ ~t}'ie'lIr R<},l<tl~~.rd.sm b=J [II:! " i'lNlib ii' t,f ~lfIri~ lIilY, InOOI"pCflltinl/: I h~ oom_(~i'[ !If Je=rn- J~Ct!Jw"'" Il:oo~B

~l'Cmrn IIl.nature;" iM-l ure'JKl!om r .. ;l'l;;:L~ll( (;Re~C ~nd ~~m;1I' b~'Rm~ ~I'I E.I.",:mI;"llh~11C III [hrch~!.ilgl •• ~ Ideah or P'I!'~II:>Clln m;;I1.'1'.~·. h wa~ ~ Ih~llIl1, mar ClfI~ 'ilt I' ~mif1;lll~ TIl:;: am ~"Y ~rnl.·Iu.I HCS'flr. ",f li:w[» I"tillRll ft"in the SllCOJ1d 1,,,1 !ilf th~ dj!il~ee:lUb c:~rllu •• y IIlltil [lit C'J!fly iii 11l~l:'llih.:< !II"". A ':"''''''''IIOCI of !Iii: dLJrhin~ Nlyl~ tlmr \\'oLilld [1'!1l0C[ dill LlIL'II~. ill 'I}'ie mnllI.:DI:i!tl h,r A;'~m;mlill. W,I' "lId ~'11~ hy Mari~-

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now visible f~(, Bur the most disriuccive (rend of' an Juring rhis period was rho g('((1f or "It'g-of~murroJt sleeve, which ballocced Out dF,ullaticaJly &Ol'll rhe shoulder and [hen narrowed in ar the clift Sleeves of II" gigof, style reached! their gn:al.CSL volume around 1835, Another salimL feature of f.L\hiOii Was the delXlllelc, which bCCUt1C so wid" rhar fichus and GJP~'5 were ofim uece;sary to regulate cxpomre during the daytime. Berthas and shawl-like g<lrn1e!![>j were also worn fl'i:ql!elltly. To offsel and balance the voluminous sleeves arr,1 yawning neckjincs.bairseyles and hats were also enlarged, IYi'lh elaborate d'ecorations or fe-.-It/l.;r.l, ;);tifki.~1 flowers, .alltl i t:wdry,

The f.shioll conventions orthc period were heavily inlluenced by Romanricism, Wlri.c:ll pursued ima:g;iru rive and romance impulses and f{).m~r-ed a rasre for historical Q; e,otic worlds, 1I'h: romantic imilgC: ~IS() demanded dIal the ideal woman be delicate and melancholic. A.Jl active, hcalrllY i.m"ge Wl.IS considered vulgJf, 311(! hence pale complexions were much admired. The H.oHl<Uldc slyl.., also borrowed dress, hair, and jewelry nuances from court dresses of the fifteenth and sixreemh centuries, die l~lVotite period Sl:ctiog for much diearrlcal drama of the: time.

Cri noline Style

The fl.lndal1lcnml :>ryle ofrhe .lg'J~ conrinued 111m til" 18<;105, bill Ihe mort; exrreme erllb~llishm~!1t~, i!lch <IS gigol sleeves ,. gt' .. dually went (JUI pI' fash i Oil and ,cal mer des i gll8 W~ rc res t ored. Wai,s d i nes, non (:£1 u:II$~, grew CQllti11!J'J1Lily SJ11;Jlcl", and skirts kt:pl cxpanding. i'bc swelling eonreur uf rhe skin was formed ',hrough [he consecutive Iilyering (If peuicoais underneuh. and their bulk nUtSI have proved a severe limi.arion 011 women's ac:rivid~~s.lluwt:vcr, since physical exertion was considered lInladylikc in high society ar [he rime, raeavy dothi.ng was viewed lcs .. s as a re.~fi·krivc dement than all indicator of :Ufluencc, In addition ro increased width, skirts were also lengdiened ~gain 10 swe4.:p dl'; 000[, thereby ('lllphasi1.i~lg ,I woman's mode.~ry. Skins in the IS'iOS WC'J'e characterized b), flollnces layered hod7.Qllrru!y 10 accentuate [h~ cone shape. The g;gol sleeves were begin!!ing to disapp~~r. Pllfl}' shoulders gave way 10 litlicr' wrist areas .. Ha!S also shrank ro SI11:lIl, moderate bonners or cap'Jre shapes, which <Iemurely hid d1e me"" The paimcr Je~!UAtlgLlslc-rlornirtiqlle ~lIgres ,"ccnra[eiy dC(licted rill:5t: fashion ncntls amI Cb:Ulgt,S inl Ih.1i fSI h:.lf of [he' !!inclccmh <Xliltllry.

Tht: etld or dw r8)os $J.W J drn£tic change where skirr5 were wllc.erm.:d. Thanh m d,e irlVcmion of m:w d<llhitlg. nlareri~ls, tilt! "mge cril'lolill!t!" elr hotlpcd petticoat appeared. In dIe ~~40," [he' term "crinoline" ~ferred 10 percicoars made of' crin Frellci1 for "horsehair") inter, ol"ei:i with liard lill ("Iillen"). After rhe: 1& 'o~. rhe fe'fm C31m!: [0 mean ~ pcttiwal ",ieh a cag\' frame cOI\SI.ructed OUI or srcel or whalcbnm: hoops, or all)' wide skirr 'Ibar i'l1c111d'('d such a cage, With che com in!; nf crinoline, skins rook on {'xrraof{linary width, Th: d(:vdoprn"nt of sted win;. major ad\'anl'($ in Iho: re>;ri;1c incl!,lsrry, and cl'e pranic:tI u~c of ~cwillg IU:1chil1e1;:l1l meanl th:ucrin(l!im.:~ were enlarged even hmher, Th.;: cOlllinuing,impmvelllcDlof loom~ and dy.:s nl~de possible;: a wide IIMie[yand 'luamiry or Dla.Lt!rilll ror ~kins. Tile Large demand 101' rabric.., du.rillg d.e ! tmc of ,(i!lolin~ amrilHled into d,c next pcl'iod as well; [J'e bu"tk-sl-y1c skin WaS

much, reduced in ginh. bm rell.uiml J.g)"cal d~'<Il ofmattria,i rl)r irs {[crnelldolJ5 ornam~JI[~ri(lT1 orribhon~ ttl I d flollll.ee~.

'ffle h'llI.:h dod]ing industry, and in particul.ar I he: silk l,'Xli!!:: maJ'ket ofLyolls, [t~eivcd the full b~llefil of {his increased demand For fabric:, Napoleoll III sUPllQmd (he II;XI il~e induwy as I)ari: of his poliriml ~{r'l[egy, and (h.· Frenall bourgeoisie wc!conwd rhe policy. FanlUt~~ eoUlud('r~ like Charles Fredcril'k Worth dcsig;ncd (tl'<.:5.,'L:S using re.;;ilnk;Jly ad\'anc<::tI ~!ld anistiCllly refinc.:i silk rf'rolll LY'IlIlS, Th~$e devdopl1lellts Ilelped Lyun" regain It! repul:uion a.~ the dimihurioll c,'mcr of ma[erials lor I'Jrisiall fu,hio!!,

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, ' . l' " bur markedly Rat in [hdrollt. This

1 Sf;' ki I beean to grow 1'011111'1I110U8;1.[ tne rear, '

'II I h",'ll(1 u 11~ 1 sos, 5 ' I r .' I _ " II .d a bustle (lflIlI'IJtlre in Frendl), Bustles

1 'bl b rhe support 01 an unc ~'IgarllT1wi ca ." • ' , .

'111111 wn~ 1110( e po~~1 e y. . -, rr' d d ,fti.d with various kinds of material. Skir!.~ or

II II HI~ Ihal werc,p,iaccd oven be bun(Xk~'l taclme lalil In I" o "111' e~a"pel'at{:d shsuc. Wirh only minor

. b I '·1 p arrhe )"1' I; co enc tnem a "".,' r

I III~WCFCsom<!riJl\e~ llnc."",u, • 8 11u "'caIsilhouett'ofd1C1B8osJressc:m

I, 'I I. b tit: s",le coruinucd tnrOllgh tht: IS os. e ~ypi_ .

11 m I! ill t_t:I~1 ,llC us .. 'J . ' /.' l' 'J ,{'La (;ra!ld,' f,ml' by Georg~'S Seurat

, I . ," A c.; ndl)" AI+(r/lOIJrl on I}I! Jt{lJl OJ, . ~1, •

III! It·m'ly m tne pmll.liIl!; , , " J~" '. h" "a_I uLlitTlli$ paint-

. , f Ci' , ) I niClin<J 3wttkend scene among I C g:t~lt:[, P "

11.1 111116, The Ale Imll[IJIC 0 . \la!I'\0 ue F ··to·' I I dr' 1 n roo lownl II) the lower

c. r th I hi h fashhm sI"yle (If the bustle rau e unte y 1 (I: l • .

,I 11~1 I~ve:!is rhe ran ;l.l11C .Ig , ' , . . d ,,". -orn in" [{okwfltfi-k!IIi," the offiCial

. h I 1 ~l lc wa" kI1O"'W!! ali rhe We.Slerrute arnre worn ' .

• I" [apun, c e JII.IO~· Y . ',' . 'I' k dunn rhe M "LJ' i Rc:.l:ora{lon (11I67-191.2),

h'.1 fu .' d as the (dUel' orWcsterl1l~t1f)n. III O. yo g , .

'I' 111"",,, w I~ 1 lldl0110 a~ , .' .' b d'· and a skul. and

.' \. ' .isred Cli' [WO st:paralc pieces, a o ice '

\ 'I~" . f :r [he mid-n mcreenr I cemury cousis d , 1

,,1 t resses a rt,· " "d I . 'Is increased. Dresses alII1\: to he a, ()rI\C( at

, .. -drew (0 a close dIe desire for decorations 311 ~.C(al . , ,

• II f ,nmr} _ A Ir ,\I,. wearer's natural bodyllllew;i~ near Y

,I. irh vuri I cOInnhcated oruamcnrs. s a resu , " • ,

"I lulu wrr vunous anc r: .', .', '" d .. th . ,l'playeJ some of the wearers

, d - Th 1 esccpcion to tnis rule, a one-piece ress at I~. .

hlli~\\,Ij,lc tt) erect. e gn Y -, bbed _ "1" ., Dress." as i[ wa: namedllll honor

1 ,."".;:1 'In [he '''lrly lIl7o>, The dress was <III eo a fIllCCS,~ '.

lUll ~ 101'(;' ernci ... , ' ," . cl

d (' -' l who la~cl' bel.;,ily!e Queen nfEngl:m '

III 'IIII\:~SS Alexan ra 11144 ]92,5., " . _.I' ,.for vQIU.I'IIimHLS ,chignolls.Ht',a<lwc;:ar,

. I h f I h ' (cnwry rtm~tcu a pr("I.NEI!I;e - ..

I h1llSl)I!C!$ tow:tre I e turn ,G . ( " j d i alii ars widl:' rhin brim, so ,15 10 r,ly\nd em"

I ' . -meru in (he <Ul1e~e"l1dl GCTltucj', evo ve 11J[0 Sill 1", , , '.

j m'~~l .1 requrrcmc . • . ',' '11 l' became especially ptllpuku for rhis reason.

I I borate h~irsr"les [oques With virrua y 110 snm, -

,11111\ 11' ca. . ," .

I cak fW rlJ War Twas reli::tred lI! as

.,' b ' the end or the Iliucreem.h century and rhc OUI lr, () 0' •

I II\' poflod et\"\."t"il . \ d 'h . fullivdjllts~ broy"ht about by pe~lple I expect-

hi 1111//( E!Joquc," wheo hrilliaTlI lk-eadC;;ljce III eng e 1 wit ~ a ~o_Y1 1 . fh'~r n(Wlire.: [Q women's lashion

, • I" '" ' The uallsimmal ;llmusp lere ,,[ougl( a In.;a, .

~lIlIn5 tor r I.'· new u;r.llury. - . . "'E ' 1.1 h' lIT figl'l1Cd hv ,tf\lClural U!~d.cr-

" .,' . ch "f am fnl1ett:,~mh-et:'lnllJ >lit!. leta c or. II 0 ' , .

I IllS pcnod,aw:I dra111al!<.: ,all!;\: r . I' II f, .1 ~ I 't.I'lf Marccll'l'OllS'

. , ,I,' vhidll ursllcd ,he ",xpl't:.,SLOI" 0 ( e ema,r~ '0, Y I c;: , •

I\'trIIllclltS m I wC!luelh-cel\lIl r) SLY. I,~, \, p"_ ,Vl"h' ,P.~5nli1e s .. hstamial Iran~ition in .h('; SlrLJ~;tllre of

. .) :llld .mdsoc'Y· descrihed 10 Rrmtmbmm.e: oJ J I/'g. (.

"ll'tUr~{, -! . . .

women's iruler g; .. rn1':n'I" . ,',~I ,_L S 'h ,,-I 'i1hmn:fle and ,he lallored SUI{ for

cl . . .' l" from II'IS Iperlw were Ulle., -:; ap'" ~, _ ..

Imporl:u!1 de" oplllcnrs erncrgll '" ,'_ ., I all W:list hy fOWl!llg

• cI 'Ih ! .. , illyolvcx\ a dr('Ss that d.nph~,med an elrcooe pm.. ,

W (lInen, T!.c S-shape SI oue t~ 'U I . . lanics cnnc()C[ed \'ari(jll~ eors"l~ to

- d' '.' ,b 'wand protl'lullllg re;tf. lIu;ovear COil], ' .

l'lrc~. Im,";.r -pW)CGtlllg red. ,), . , d r- , f' l'l 'n resembled ti,,, Sit:lUI)li$, Otg-dnle

. _' " _ 'h' reI [hi·s style. Th,' S-sh~pe "g"ure 0 WOI ". .,'

uc"hrcV(;l [he rlJ1)' W:1l>I5 Sf_lUg [ f . ~k 11 " Iii (I' the bell-sl1(1.ll(;J sktn WIth U'HLn

,l '\' al fA,' Nuuve~II.l" In jll]l"lJClli:ar, L.He umlng leI

itll'll'IS th.'1l[ w(;Ie 1"1" It C'. ); 0 It , I co II fd' .'" -'rm; such as

_ , ,- ftc (10 (eo b An NOllV,ffi_lI artl~IS. III L 1C Be. 0 ecorauv" a .' ,

r!.'st~nhlcd th,,;-I1Qr.d mOld c). 11 a_ P Y. 'I" r 'or An Nnlwcau. dcsigl1 is c1e:l!rly

. I b ,.:ill J'ewdrv Ihe iDIIOVa"~)J1 and oilrstan, mgqu<I Ity

,lcc~s.s(mCS a'l<; a ou:. '.'

~,,'idell!. , I d ,'\" d" '1« (anl/tZ'llIl~lwirh elements 1>01'-

, _. .• 1 d;i rc;a y wum [;11 ore "I." I

Prior l"O the nll~e[e~nrh CC:TJIlIl'}" wom,en 13,' 'I ' I' ,t- 'POI'[ (lud ·cr.vd be'", II [0

, ,'!' l_, k . r Tk fad uf sUlrs ~IS c Ol',mg elf $ . , '"

tow·d from men'~ dothlng flJl horse ac rll mg. - 'f It. . _. II ' j (he Ilt:ginnili"- of clle

, .' ,uhe latter h,]lf QfLhc Cfll[ll'!'. Hn,dly. betw~1l I he: end. tI t e mDCle;:nr ;)'111,. 'f, ~.

.lIch on 1.. . , " " 'c. "d e ( r ,'eneral QCG'l~lQllS, \'1um.ll~

" ' , ,.". I to \Ii 'ar tailored SIIl[S lor .1 \\1 e mng ), 1>-

Iwennerh cenemy. WO.llll:!l ~Ia],l<;~ c ','1 h:' .. ' (0- blollSc)

, '1 d'" f I' ,,[,['nle consisted of [.\110 piel.~, a ja.:kcr and, a ski rt, worn Wit l a ~ !nW,1I5t r

1(11 on.: SllltS 0 [Ie ' ,.

underneath the jacket. Because of- this pl'efen;;ncC' for suits, Ihe bl()llS~ began to be recognized as an important element ofwomens fashion, and the trend was accelerated hy die.appearance of lhe; "Gibson Girls," as ponrilyed by rhc American illustrator Charles Dana Gibson (1867-1944),

In the case of dresses, contrary 10 (he tendency ro simpllfyand 1~!~low the naruralline of rhe fermk body, gigantic gigal sleeves m~<.k a fleeling comeback in the 1890.1, ~U[ dl~ trend Faded away around 1')00_ Similarly, hats were enlarged and decorated with outrageously {~'(tra"aga;l~ ornaments H.Kh as sturi-(:d bird." and these remained popular until the begl nning of [he twentieth century

The Development of Undergarments

By I.he lauer half of •. he nineteenth centl11'Y, industrial rnodernivarion improved the average lifesiyk:, and doching was in abundaflC€ .. A strict social etiuucrrc arose reg~rditi1i artirc, and women had TO ch~rl"<:

1 ~,~ ~

rhei r garments seven or cighr tlmoo:; a day [0 meet the dictares o( snci<:ty. The following dress names f(_'r

example are indicative nf the occasions for which women were ohliged 1<-' change their ourtir: mOI'fling gQwn, afternoon tea gown, visiting dress evening dress (for [he theater}, hall gown, runner dress, horne gown (before hed), and! (imlly, nigl,l, gown.

Nil rnerous new kinds 0 r ulldergamH:ms were created to fill our these new d rcsses. 111 add irion ro [hechemise, drawers and peuicoars appeared, and ~II fp!1ak undergarments wok on decorative qualities. Various undergarments supported (he rapid changes If. silhouette. Crinolines. bustles, and Corsets, all essential to the sculpted sil hOI)C:ITe of the nineteench ceHl:ury, were introduced in new models wirh various novel dC\,I_ses and invcnrious, many of which were patenicd.

Dramaric advances in seed malluf.lctming made possible this new expanded selection of crinolines ami hU5Ib, Steel wires and springs beg"] to make an appl'JlanCl: in undergarme-us, in addition to the usual clorh, horsehair, whalebone, bamboo, and rattan supports, The invention ofsteel eyelets in 1829 made corsets extremely cffecrive "ilhouem::.mJ_kers, They continued ro be considered by women the,; rnosr imporraru undergarment' until the beginning ofrhc twentieth "er1l!H}".

The Beginning of [he Fashion System

The textile industry accomplished astonishing improverncnrs for certain sections ofsociery in the ninercenrh century. The Iirsr half,,[ (he cenrury wirnessed the mcchanizarion of prill.:i,,!; and improvements in spinning and weaving machinery, III 1)\56. the invention of aniline, the first synthetic dye, brought a (It-amaric change to Ill(: color scheme or clothing, The hlw:" vibrant mauves and deep reds rhar aniline p[odm:ed were so fre,sh that they were qlJ.ickly embraced hy the bourgeoisie, AddiLillflally, sewi iig machines, mode practical by Amc;ri~~1n ham: Mcrrir Singer in 18)1, ,~howcd remarkable pcrform'lrlce in g>1[l1lentcon.llnluiOll n.nd· irnmediarely caught on in the fashion industry. The notion v,f"ready-madc.:"· cloth.ing arose n arurally in such 111 en "iron menr _ In America, merhodx Dr producing ready-made clot hi~lg had improved r',pidl}, during the Civil ,«rat to meet the increased dern:l11J for military uniforms. T" Frunre, the firsl mass-produced dod-ling, known as "('(mjecriotl," was cheap, but came in imprecise ~IZ.eS.

III conrrasr to an indusrry in simple a"d functional ready-made women's clothing, a high-end hauie couture market also got off [0 ,I good starr during [hi~ period, and turned out to he e,;qually pm'pnous, All English wllturier, Clurb Fr,dcrick Wnrth, established the basis of hlmlf caUlur~ as it exisrs in todav',

, .

y~ldn. He opened Ilis maison in 1857 in Paris, and introduced rhe rmcdo;e of preserlling a new colleciion "I'hi, own designs for each season, Moreover, by purring them on I ive models, he radically changed rhe

• .,<'I·llod of [he preseruation of the clothes, Through \V:orch, the modern fashion sy:;tem in which multiple lit nl1le may purchase one couturier's creative work was successfully established,

Cluthing foe Sports and Resorts

jl)' rhe latter half of rhe ninereenrh centu ry, rhe lfJnUl1011 standard of living for certain sections of 50ci<:"1}' was _II improved that people had rnore oppnrrun iry tCJ enjoy leisure acrivirics. Travel to resorts to csc;apl' from her 1ft cold weather became possible with the advancement ofpublic rransportation, and rapidly !;Tt:w in pOptlIMily .. A love cfsportsactivirics, too, spread to the gelle1<l~ public. In rllis period, till: principal elemenes srill present in men's dmhiTlg today, such as jackets and three-piece suits, appeared as informal dorhing for activI ti!S such as travel and SpllHs.Womell's clothing fOf' SpOI'rR such as horseback riding, Imllling, and [ennis W:1S IIlllIl:whm practical bur not significantly different [0 their [Own clothing. Even dlOugh sea ba[ning W<LI con~idered a medicinally hding practice at the rime, women were meant mostly just to frolrc at the edge of the ~~Ij rather than go swim ming in II-" water, Their bathing dresses were meant [0 double for spans and for

1 "',I(;_I\ excursions, More practical swimming outfits, swimsuits consisting of topS and [['0 use!', , finally came Ilhl1l1t in the I870S,

As the nineteenth celltUl'j' drew to ,I close, skirt lengths began to climb due to the popularity of more

IL I ive "POtts like golf and skiing. Knirted sports sweaters wen: ineroduced and a men's jacket called a "NorIflj~( [acker' was adapted into hunting wear lor women. Scottish tartans, practical to use and unique in colors Itflrl patterns. became fashionable as resort clorhe afrcr they were worn by Queen Victoria, Furthermore,

II <lll"el'-Sh'ij_l<.:d "bloomers" finally became accepkd as fllTJ.nional cyding dod,,:. for women in the 1880s, 1'1I'Nf. adv'()c<ltedi_il the mid-ninereenrh century by rhe feminist Amelia J~nks Bloomer, from whom rhcy took 11"..11' name, [he urriva] of bloomers coincided whh newly beglHl campaigns ~()r women's right,,_

jUI)orusm and Parisian Mode

Wit h the opening of japan [0 inrernarional trade in ril5+ European interest ill Japan grew rapidly, and "[uponism" emerged as a [rend in the early r88os. lasting until around 191:0- japonisrn influences in fashion "Pllt'iUed iii various ways. First, the japanese kimono im~lf was worn as ~n exotic at-horne gown, and kimono fabrics were utilized in the making ofWbt~TT1 dresses. Fine examples olbustlc-srylc dresses made of kvso(./.t> (visi[lng kimono) material survive. japanese rTlutil-i> were also adapted and applied to European rex,i1es. 1n textiles produced at the time in Lyons, I~-)r e"litipie,}ll'"'le\<: p'lHern.l such as ""1-11,.1 tnnr-if-'s, .111'1,,11 .inlrnals. and even 11Imily CT(OSt> can be found .. At [he beginning of rhe twentieth century, thecusrom of' w~aring a kimono as art at-home gown can be seen in Mildame Hcrio: by Pierre-Augusre Renoir (1);82., llarnburger Kunsthalie, H-,nnburgJ. E\'mruaJ~\-' the garmem evolved into a more thorough Iy Wes[ernized,

II mono-shaped at-horne gOWt1~ The word "kimono" cline to he used in a broader sense in the W'esr" enoornl,wsiflg'l variety ofloungillg robes. Ulrirnarcly, in the twentieth century, the silhouerte and flat construcrion "r i he kimono would exert a great inlluence 011 rh tee-dimensional \'{!':~tcr!l clothing and the world of fashil1l1,

Miki. Iwagami, L"ctun:r ar Sugino fashion Coneg"

47

mililmU:!;~

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101 ACfl4 l;r..crr-Jrdit, At;rXjlj ..1'.1'>,:-..-.1

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n<h"I[11:'! .dl~n '!.I'MIoN Irt.

rl.1 I'il 'II luil.till .01 ... ~~ hrr~ cl.:idi lIIitn 'rCJ~LL d~'"1Tf":JI1J.1~·f Ill]' ~~ ~1\!Olrin ffiTh~,~-~ 1l.,,~1 ~);!I'"!111 i~lhI'r. nlfpt;! .. P culqll!' 1l"\<.JlI..lllr~l<"JIrf.

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Pnl lm'llIL iht_h ""-'1= Rt~,ltl'" H,,,:luJ. (rull'l!' I1Ulmdlll~ «' (T",u,II. ~.wJJImt.

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O'and had 3 ,mikll1!\" impact ,," I , II r~1l I'''.tl the 191(15, ;lct()PlilJ~;HI W1I,dc:n't.i'c:u material. wool je-J"tcl. r II QPllfcl-urlrllrt'dr~sst'S, On me 1,11 ,I,

deg;~ II( evening dress [rom die ~I ,1 ~ I

bas aJ1 inseruon oflace, whkh w I rrequ<IKly used f<:'r Iingenc de 1'11111,11 Bdl'.' 1',poYlLe period.

E-- Gabrielle OJ"md h,o<ling Dress

Label: CHANW. CANNF,5-·H. WJJi CANllOT'; j'(I.!U5 iliA RIU I c. '9j"

Bei~"'i1ksatill aOld 11""; pieced ..1" nately,

Iuu. ,t04479 Bj-IJ--l5

With me gmwi "1\" pop Uhfi,)' of "I""Ie ill the [9WS, rile p;li'1.m:t as bcachwc.u bCCl.",,,.r;,,I,;nl111ble. T]'~ i"'j'I[rJ[l. wlJdlh.aJ been w,>in:a!; mm~' ,Ucejlblg W!;':.1r. w,'s {uhp. "I r(tf \''''~'rrlccn\ beachwcarand hostess dft_;q~l~.5 {In iMuooal occasions und at resorts. 'I"h, qd'~ne ,~'os; on the r'i~llt has d=,", of rhc P"lcW1:i; created in rh~ T9.~O'.

T he b~k lace p:1 uern looks imriol\<C over rho pl"k undcnlress.

--'I M~<ldcineViQnn"t Cublre Dros"

Label: MAflFI ILINE \T10NNFT (l~j>oSIl

1<):17

[)ink ,ilh ~hifl{JIl culoue dress: over"kin (lFhl.l~k lI~l with lace :lppU<jllC: velvet bow; und~rgdrmem of ~r~p. de ,n~i" s,

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2.<O'th. Century '.' Second 'ialf

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Ajifa rJiIC'·rnll III 1M (11] K~ hr 111. ;j ~l'l:fITjill[h .' ~flj"nJ 'w.:ii it m rile !~j."II"l, "I",,-ici • '!:I1I~rnl ;11, flo.! ('I 'rna ~IJJ1SLiIIIIJtioIl1lr1 [Iii:' u ~6ru. rl-lf"I~'llilHI6. 11~ j;t;J.) rr[td~~T;[)lnil1l'li:l!."lL'<if"i\'ihM n'kJe'llIr in iI'lI: 'ill'l'irld "f( ... Ir Ill. !'~fbill! I, ,[ ,yrnJ j'~I~d by '4j~" "_"lil!ifl!1ri'~' ~n.1ini!'D9';ru! inmw.JlJul1:l_proUfZ1i;lIn!<.:.loJ I~li, 1t.:l:~IIm' II, ·1j,,,·dt:!pml'll 11' m.ml1lydi:: J~tlC'n, i\i ~ m.ul" !'a_'m ~I~ prt..~d "I)I.I'~ Iud <,lwlll}' pt.f;'-i}'frJrl<'r tI!.Lll} ·1 , w<;;!r l ,Jm:llln~ ~Jmt into C'ru«1K~.

Hilhrr tYIJlrIJ'f'tI, 11K! a. t 'pr«l 1".1. n;u~ JiJl'II!'!I-,IH i~"!11 fJ,i'I",im Ill[lluC! %7"m'm~d III oilil!r.dfilJ::mlhul r.m'"i!lll~~ ""!~_ltl'i' !'lI,d Ii'r.iI;:t~1 i~ I~tyl(\' -ii' pO[;rl;: 9n the n<'l'I, ~'Iiil-*T--WlKh1 ,r II ,t5I'il, iJ~Ill!n.g tb;: ,~S!r{Y,;. ~~ ~ .'lil ,,¢!oillt)li l'I~i r:hruoi!i1Udn,:<t1C mKliifpmlCOOl1. IilJ;n: W .. ;;:,;i d;:11Il:l!i,j bu· 1U""""iI'I1IYIlIi:,hlr the DH~K!r. P1i1"I"fll"" rmfk1'itll.l ,"'!!f~ J,t) I;iLIrnii5 t<!JI''l' .. , WUrldRg, \\'fIUot'tl', .. mlllhll'f:!1i f'im...'IJ [911 IlCl\ kvd OfpOpLlllJrmliulI.Sul\tI'r .L~bjIJ,l1 ~lj>Ii ,pl\J\I~d ~r;p ~ >R~i liTlfI"'lHullL 111~"lrJi!<jIll (If I lit.: '-f<-::JTI[lnlll f~-.J. p.IfffJ'

t'jlHl ~h!; 'I ~ fill, r~·l.iwp!rrl'" mllrl. h'("!":.-Jbl£ f""r dit. ht~~lilQ 1.lldumy tu ,j"'~~I~" ""J Jh·L'1tloifl",' II';:rTl' Iwll !lbbi:T:tldle{jljj'!iLl~!1 IllI:ld:-LlnJ ",Iltlnl r;.hlIIOtjil~ml;ll'",bw hlliWW;!l' 1l'~iri~~in • .,J I~itfilill 1m I blll.,lIoll.! -rImVLIJJJ, ,CI!IJ[eU'" ili.., ~!Ljlil!'e ,,""'" ilil'llil~t - ~c t, !il,1\, m.'o' OIl ,wrnrn ,to 'uu.htiEIItJI ~rHIt hill lin i fl~ T<9~m·,ll<:.lp~! L'l\iill rll ~,,k'll,!' 1'l'!..-.mirlj;"lli' ll"ihln~ 01'l.-.:g;tT1I, lI!1lJ ifl~ ft,r ;In ide;ili~ll W11 :11. li,t r~ (,noJriiil!ll iJulL15rl)-'iifuu: I'l.lJ:nI, '-,liri[ '-l:l1lu!'). A~ Ih: Lllfill ",f dO(: ~Wl'IYIl,"~11 i- ~:urt', (g~h.i IlJillr '~111url' ,Nii(i be 5~'I'I. wd<Jm!i, JJld win£ ~Il'V'I'dl.EI ~ iu Ill'" \",,,,113 r"'~ttlrft1;J~' thillllk,,'ro m~dill !>Ii!:b il!i Irll:-~llkilb lliI.1tllllt' TfII'ffI1ot. ((Iiijll,;tl,IJ J~d~ lIi!ijl ill pi~ 1''fL\li~ lillie hl:;l!l I 10000Jil II tlni,-.maI Urut(jIimIlli.

ln dM:" 11J.60.>, ,b.:i'b~' buvl;m:n. fe;l1:~a:I [llCIrrucm, ~,!d dt~ INi! W nllL\/! luro.lllCtmnomd [J;!I!'l-' ""I!51U.JnfKwn, W,.!~" In ~,ull '",'lI1~, ln l.tl'iJ. i"hl·s.:Il'~t'L Ullj,_lflltijju~Jk:,.lIJ]~ l'il"!'t ID;lJlJiCd ~Jdt::t J11~l.t..;]mlll1 ~(,J' 'i'i~~kl.rt!l J"~~~I

1;, Krllil 1.'1)1 ""4l1. ~.w.:UfI..,tn:l Th~ M';i; ~t:!,J."u 1l,m:IDgIi m t'.1ri_t. "!, iJ Il'l'd in t9.6B\ 11,1 lif Lh~ i1m,JlIQJC!,p; , !II' dn;: F:l1i)Ofi \'jill, ~r.hi~'\I(':I1111 Wl!!I.11I tfu.: miJ'tl 'I rr lilil&h t~lb)~~ flr-Jm", _[~ }I'OLln!;; ~ll"",J:LI<Ji1 ,sOl,~ht If~ m!flll di4lin~ l milllk [jf e~I'r\"'!i.i1J!'lT,(! inl thi" pt.11l'cilJll nt'll AJIIII'~'! ,-,,,11m .. '>'i:lI.;:m Ill"",(tt" hill"" I he ¥i,ikJ; "j' dlf' }'[liIn~ '\~~ 1"", r'\1 m I hI:" ~ocnl1 iJriiM, I",,,tb; Iliz J~ "~rl,," ,f,_J th ,;>;1'IL~tltl Wcr(: IlOOiiIlln-U ii, ,I .. Ili~cclt d_mmt.;l. rrl"~III~nt Qr fNf,I!H-rIk 1'iltflf ~k I.!!~, '1b4', 1'1 ~,l ttr pm~ruJJ~ Praln .lin:! Iiloui:d el11ml"II~.

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ViuJ1l1m W;u grlJ!d ,(0 Il'r,*l. ]-'I~ I""'" nil.",,\' , rl'ltv..! .... (.r,II".Ln. _'" " .l1li rol' •• J:urn-d "'~11r 11I'Ifl, W,'''~m -lIulI"","".i,d.ij!;l!'!lil. f!,olll, IVitil .11101 '·I.Il,~n 1'.""1'1 J.J..i1 bi,.l" .. t~ .. ...J "", ., .... ...1 'IIUHW I riM· jill i..1Iij. oil .. I,d; bot.llJ1X' f ,~u,l"nl"t.& )Wl'!IE' Il""'tutiU". ~'I1NJI d 1m- ,",,,,I,L Ilruljl!ltllIlll '''''ij;, iJid Dl'r r~]I it! f,'" lir nn L~oI! Llm:l {.,h~lI:l\. ,,~j Ie

'1"\' .. 01, 'II["lr rh.:1 r "'". ii'll" i'i!!1II <k1iK" •• n &iloiI""k iJ;ii ,,[111 ~"" I'n~ " ,pill"..cll,"~1Id 1;. .. 1·

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I.ll~1 flJ'l''II''l'''''[!,. ~IIJ Ii'..ri~

S,'tWfIIlS'J,jllMl'!' IIpl

Wluir """[., i'!I'L!st Wlt~ ~"lIy>J]n,"", "',>::011:[11.1, Ildl'illf1rioollll;'.:i' "luotr lU..J..; 8Il:r:>1l1.11.11t'IJ#,i'rlly.J1I"t,l tmh'lwh~

f!lF 'it ,;.9, v.t·.,. ~

Cfjl"~ ~ Y'!nillil~ l",-.llnH.a

I ffll. a:n.

1 L Lil -, e 1\,171

! 'I " .. II~j{ ... "I, r 1>.1...., him l"'m ..... lo.ldl-l'l.J!.,I"l'.

'"".1 ',' ~~.,j-I

['J.r,O 11lJ, ¥~b,Oc I ~rll !~~. r<'I1Ki1- ~

Lt.t, ,J,.,. i'fo"'l rh".b, c, I.,'fl

',·I!u. ... ~ II I.! Willi 1'.;,] "ripe I~ CIlJIDI1j -.:w: wll...., ",irh n"r[1r Wo.JtL, t t..... ; 1,1.1 ..ilm [~h'foIIn

flU· 'q;,flf Of lo~

l'~: l,Dih~rd1~,llonk~ I IIJ~ 111

~,IIII~

r:urljll<j1(J

1~1l¥'11i1l~ II'lH~.,[II 11'~[lij.Ww 1'.111' &k. IUlJlrI,,~~ I!dt

fliP. ,I t.'I~r. Jillo,' ~I\' )

~ ,r." 1'&-'" I:.;'kwi

1,,(1 (;i,,;p.;~" I'", 40

TWIi.c .tld Hlml

1.l[.FI:~.. J "I\IG£ll I

R. ~ 4<1<111 1111 w.dl 10UJ "I. imd u[_JI I?" '''nlcliilld. uuil 'Ill .- ITII1(l ""

, '11'1 .. rnllll"; ~'I r<4t"-'klil n ,,1 II ....... !Jill ~t:g;'J" Do\' JII'-J. _,j r~" ~ gI1 .H I

llii~ t SUil~~m U~nnw. ! '''''' end P.rnr'

r "~II o1.t:p!UlII hllll'CfWl

1lIt1, I ,,~'"

~ ,!l'l;tll ,Inl.'n ""lie _ ~nd IJ~ ,... ~". .l.na~ , ... 1 ,,1 ,hLUij til, I""n :mJ m.II. lIfT''' Tf" ~ °l~o .ilil

~ ~ r'I~ ~"'~ lllM ~nJ, ol,:tmII V.'1I5 ... N~OJI~L ,,' ~ dt:tl1"JJIU;,IInoO'l IIgoIij'lr ,1:tc\~1I:I1 I],W't"I'J!i~

-_.., - -

l"IIJo.,.mhll_.I',...hhrn-. Md~!<'rn Im:*il b!liD aml M"'3lu;: • 'll ~ ,n] Itbll..l. lim> Ill.III;" ... "'"

•• "", .!JU 1l~1 n.: .. WlIf qI h 'k",~;n Ib:htmw .. ~m iIx::!o.:n. .,rc~,h_

'11 h. fpl'l"'~ 110ft

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t.:aJxl: ',1\ J 'l, In •• 'u II " ~1nl1looJ'\\ InlH I 'j\J~

J -J<r"1J~ ''''' I r

l.ihcl' dlt"

I 1111lIl/W"mll:t'~

W]'l~-~""""",J...m.:j ,~" ,IN' ,AI:\r./f M

C'ifr I'Irfll i~ d1t:.il SiLuJi<f

LJ ~i-k.J.'l' tlkolJiH: ..1,["" Ir:i.iII<t, .- •

1'111 ~r~.Tf ¥Q-i!,:i8

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\.'l,,~,t' h bUlnl ii, ,~'" g II II. I ~<Af .... MSd ." the I~~ l '" II , I'wJ I:rud"HlClol'I~ kKt:n ""doq:, .... ,. I

Dlel ~. ,«I< , ~I'" ~JlII • ]I

..... dnimisllioarJ ,nmxmr •• ,1 ...... Ir( - 'l'1ll1i II. I) ,lilD"ill"Il,II. ""Ii.riy •• ~ .. I,,,,\il.w~ ,,' II rmm ,nnHi.t1" o[ 11~' ,.,,, OO[FI-W~~ D ~ In~i"'t ~~JIlIIT II' I~ 1.l!1",I .. nnJprl. en ~Ir}.' IfoI'l " II! ~ li,WUlI\_lIdt1trl [l1m't,ll,. ,,' t.I.: L~1Io:, l1"'rar.tp'I .... ,,,,,,d tttc k " "I. For, ~r~llh~ h,'Il.i'

JE!!' -~I!I Utt'~i~~ Il,~'

Ltbd O1I1-PInII.,~UlnfJl pnw taUt!

!i!t,"Suil'41~ " '!'

1l.al.!IL ~!I. J!~l"," I1,LI I""", I" j 1]3ll'r~rct" ela liZ: n,""'" ....:om j "~II id~lfl ho>4

~I • ...rr;;J11-1f 'IN ..

~ (dui: r'~d f!'lil11 Srfilil" II m\'I"lo@7

. J.... 111r.ul ';I!J~J'.I 111~~]1').'ii11l ~~ JrJltl-I'II1I1L ~ III J I Sp'~I~!tiu'''' r "i<

Bbw-,lW"", I"l!"mfI" "",I, .' .11 J mlfnf.l 'Iycmr. II" hbdlJri1!ib.m.mJ ul'f"" Im'A ~'n-:I~

• V1l; K,,;rotW"'L'I'.~rJ ',",Im..~.'blo,,', I I ~llptrl 1*1~""'M~"""Wr" ill.!!iI!i! fmJ 'r/i\' "1k!1 " I

~'M" _"

.~ ~Jlro!Mi l.Ji>.:IL ~gr.l. Y.'"I~rI>1"., rn~~I'lulmTKII'1" I

I" I ",,: \fw.l~r '~!;all.:.i Ii;,; (~J] -, ['oct! ~.~. ""him", 10 IIJ.lm· Wi!r- t,1o;- ~.i(: t ,'"PL l IJh III

"1 >11 - \,J!,r,._ III ,. I,lf'l' 'Ii~n...

'MI ~~ ~ .. ~~ [hl.~'1"'['[ i'l hi, 1'1 IL~ ClIXi'llbiL!. ~[,;m..J.:lh~ ~lh""lU,~1I '''') '" II ... .o,!f,,"" 101. It

i,!jll 1hr I"JIllr ~l'I1. m...:.l ~illl!l

II ~Io:m UI1 al",,,,,,..,w. Bt Ul'l'ID4.' 1lI II L~lqdln"I<e/I'I!"" ~,r P'~~r!lll". rill· I",p""pd d"" i'itl'!'~"'" ;!tTmhi"..d

liTl;i!li1I ~nJ I'"!\t' lIin:l1 "I ~ II ...

I \ ~lr.:loILtI11,*

""'WlI ""o:.r",~ ce ,c~J!rcdln· ,111, 11111' ~ U." 1".IFJ'l'IL-. ""Il~ " rf'llil '!fJ 11 &,,",1.. tiki; IfSI1I..(o~llI"K" fur _ ~

II :"I\ll r~p.11'1i:. Ni; ,lAY

I J.,1~~" f'''I''!I'

bl'l!lJ '~SIlT !t1P~[_ 'rnnW.sll".~

I ~';!I FUll" p~c~cn1 ~I~erlllillll! jijl.III'i"Ia, .1'~,I'~pi 0:1 ",lti, fI,J.1iI1 ~...I

JIlTI!~.

lu Ar.:fJ!U"-~1r,.I

I.e J ~ _ M'T"~' 1'\:ll1Pt·1,,1 ..... ~ I" I "1,,,Lo, kllil&, oj w.ul..-I'_".J,,,,d "'" 1'\fI'l,' ta PI,I, w.-11,I!!<-u,.".l1 ~~ , f UllilI. Mil dl!.:' litL'4ftfilIllltlolJll Jird tr IJ.., ~"'''~[t Ill' Iu.ilu III il.1..!. (ijf:;I ~rm['l"'l1T mn , II ..... M.-h "I 'i(j, "",ltlJL '''It 1'li1'l • .:nL iJl j!u: L:nrllt ..... ~,

.... 1 II •

i\. om L''''' n Ilorr d"'l '1"'1' ... criu:nlrto::u1J.i. kil!lliriJ 1't.."Q' tI. ~ !,t,l.l"j U" i1n.J1 r,,,,l..:J!If dl!t.I~",."'''' ,1li1.W

, .... ~I j" LI"" ...... L .. , dJld nl'o'gl"l C","T LI..!!illl., L11J.l!.lti4U1 tE.lIl h ~ I Iv zrm Iltlnd, ,nil .. !;;,L.l1II<' il 1:1"-' ~n,,·.11 ,Il!' ttuIq'~ld' r 111 ,f ~iJt. I'ldl lno lltlllneM """,wu..r III wril .!toot,

111'1.1 dJtp~I.;j.~ lG' II)' ,I

~.M~pli. Lkc"

~"hii:I' ~~~1i'f1'll1'l""'1 Sf'lII1j:ll"~J.,.8

-, ~"NQ('j1l 11fkw1lmkjll:iC-:f!l~~ dJt~ L'" rot'! .:ml.iLl: nlD::illn

__ ik~I"',1J ~ iii !,..,t.rm..:.; .... PL<rni.l.I'! mon riJ! .. 11. mill lIil~dd~.

fm....4t"V ~ ,,1\.,:-: "'r:~I~ ~'rl ~

17

_ MIlflI.i'Ii.; I (~ffi'I"'illlH (..-,,001

~I 1[1 [1:jJ

Ld ... I: I"''''~I'I 1"'~,""IIiPN

,~r @i;jlf\l;.OIlLm 1iJ'!1' I

'.l;'liIWlliJINI','Yril LtI,iI ..... ~

IIr I 'Ii I I .1 ill ~1lUi;i11k II ,llI'fI [.

~iIii' 16 rl II .... , 1r11A1

t" _tA:7,h"" 'J,IN

"I', ,,"I.tlIlll!lrdr:'!~'.f~'~~"~ L.J

~I~ __ <kt _r"'~IU

,hU,b:UI!.iI-li]JU

~ 01.1 n'..., r ~,~, IN I I il1I j\1IIJ11111>1Wilefl I

'Wfti1q. " I" r ""1I1;r.1,

<!P~.I~.

~ r-t. I~R

tJli l~;\'" n \:'lIwjjMo II

I~

nftmr bn hll~ ,l<:llIl'-yri(in ","~1lC ... d"~lll!lr m:l"l\"h'lIP".!i U~ ~ IIllJNJIJI rl'Jl,rl'.,J'in J In(J~" ! r:>JhlIlWI I ',;l,Iljlll'm d 'lIi!4ioll!Jl! "l-"" In I IClliiLl-I\I~_]) n~ I ,rr ~{tfj I~r r 111 ... ;1 .I)J'fi

~[ll K)ili'J.twol

Iyll ..... "'.:.nl.""""'~ ~ .... <:Uf#i'-",jnilll'r U!1t !t.K1. 1lj"n~iJlI. LI., J,_ ~ rrvlll1£llacmLil:. ""'" 1~1 ~, ~f I bJ= IlIiUJun~.

1r:ofJii '&.rnamooo L) I

Ltihd· ~hl'JI . iTIlIn"",o Aw:tm'[J{WllliC .~{.

fib.!. ~Il~ · ...... r rd,: blll"~ 'lIIh "i>doi In

I", ..., r JfJ."il' ~ r i-i'A'lt

~ lfoi.fjjllil<lill1)r."'I,Djn~. oorm'lJIT I., Jlr[mlm! fri'''" ,*,~ • _t: .tktlill ,~ii ~ t. 1l'.J:1". ,I;.r l ~ frlo,nl\ [(I ~ 1i n It, II,.lllilll:lJl

I ilidy.1M[d-, It! !v.~., I '[1 dn:

... t • T'''i.lItIllllrJ<~ r <iii. flil'lli.. 1rlT 1M r ',l1d It IJUI"'W' "il n'fJIJ,.,. h:.lt.:.~fll'IllI b,y \Pt. &I ~~&..aiA I~IT, 1:'aL1u fI.=m1 d~rN;\1 d~~I'IU"b.

\'.;;.IIJ'''Ilo.mu."m. VwIlII~:\II;.irr

lIIixl! liWlji 'I\t!I'~I""'I~ ruu\IOIII!'WIll! l!ijll

~~! '" Vo'-l"lJ .dtllJ1,l, ,km. hbd. "",.,1 ~ - )m'1l....lwhl! Idp~ /!It!. ~''''''I1.'t.f-1'-I,Jj

I[:-toli .ilY.o!II 1 ~'imrI_ II ....

Til 'I'JlIl1l~m"'l'1 ~<INI, W~I.llIl used , 1l.,!11'~ !"'di~l! 1tJ-li:Ch Sbn.:, 1M 1ijT1l1-1i$l'[ I Ij:[ II1:It m-rr mqom-A"'~tl rlliid._L,,11 '~lInIlJ i..Il71f[i~1 d .. m, 1,111''', '. II,

t)fj I Ij,' rlBtd ~~ ""1111. ItIIIlk! 'If III """'f 1"Frr:f "lu-J-tigila ', .. I'"lie r~",,- n,< .l.ln I 1I1>1!J1 'Itrttdt IJIij 11k"il br..!i1Wc. ClC be W!J.:d ILa I

~ JIITI_fJi \lIlI1.p.lM ,:r."""

.l.okhlu}ojl'.~ W.l.:I~N"'lIt I~l:r"~' ..,t ~IJI<)\N~ ~Iws.i.mlllrr~_

"~I'" l""inlW "'11"" "''''W- V"I ni1I"if(i101'1! ~ piL'ImI; _".,..ill, liLbJ doH. 1,Im ill, IlUlLbinji" Imutl

1».11. i H':IIJ,!l!'/ 'lilll-'1-1

..... ]~i~ ,11 ~[ilfllol.~R Jn~~ 1M drill

l:.ID!1:~ I t;J!I\..!. w s p,·j ~ Ill' , I ~~IM I .J"'J...',1{1;I'~~

\UIll,1'I111lW1lIfI:l JI;IO!.>

11~1 pnll'1"l.er 1J'*'" ydltl-\ J ~~tt'l:{ .kfri_

rljj\ 1(."" illJ ZlJrfII"lJ >'-~(

Index ofNa,mes

.ill ~J1"J.,"1,

~J:lt., ih~,III'::, 1~"'~I,IJl~ 1\1~.r:idffl" l..lu;;:'l!l! ,.n ;It''IL !~, mnl.i >l:Iiil if~lI11J. ,~I. 7i1

I~",~, ~'I"ni)f, ~t.I

j\r.wJjLi. (;I"'l~j. '1'

B

Ilaa. loon, 1(,0

s.:ib ·iII. (intl!lhil''1".,~a .. 1 iill. '4.1

R;..!m .• ln, ""'F1'I" .. ~\

,1'lI.,I'I""'or.!iJ"" (;11 'Lr,.,~, 1'1l!~. I:~

I),-';f, C\l1U~~, [;QQ, "". "'} ~l"bJ, OJriuiJ Ii, 11" M11, Lr.;,

IHl>ili:il>:r, J..mdi-M Jm~"-ii' Ikoolll..r. h:.ril\I.I •• ~, 'I, " lI<»u,~alll.I""

1\''''""""", ~r~:I1.1 ~"

A!L::., !\I!.!LID. '~I, Ii , l«>

C:..t<lIfJ, I'n"", r • TjCI, !H. TH

t' .. ,;".;J;,,:p, \'4'.i'lfu.1c II., Or',. l [(l Chlll.d. GiL;oldk, 9 • ~~. ,P~. II:>\!, II ,1.1',; I J'I, 1+4, '4~ r.<!dI:l'l~.}I::ui" '1'1

~:tmn1JUl ,.los t;fl~llli. m. lAM I~II I$!:. I w~

~~",mll~" I'lmtW.l..!.'l, LI~. ~.: 'ml!:r. '11; \11" IDj

!D'

l),Um"I~I. t,l~

D~i" OIU I,)jllr 1Vlloo. J ~I\'.. ! '\I

~IJL Slik!..", '11

D",,,oI., 1:tIl1.ILll,llrJ !II In, .~) l.ll!fl.id", .'J",Iri'iC. It I nio1r..f:I'I.'utl:lJ119~' 11.<!I,1}l!.I)lI, l~, I ~7. ~ \Il. i ,t')<;i~~" u\~

I, I,,~ ]iUlijIl<30 '10

[:110011 ... rlllfl~cri}·H~I&Ii;lI."

li

tjj~h n, "~Jli';nll.;f(;""" l~~im ",OJ N,il"h If< no!, IIl:-iih·lIr.:1 ('lfltmllflll'i'ahJ;, 11O

,&i#r.L~', f.iqj,ml <If';liI. I'",,,.:I>,.p.

i'

lUi!,.' . 'Iu .... 'Ii i''''''''''~, 'IT ~~Ii]d()l

r.i, d, 11'1111,1" I

I"rm"r, M"'ri~'lo, ~!. ,Ct.I], fWljrf,1 hi~,I;,"I.~

Ei

!"'IIi,,~,! Il,hll,lt. - olrl:or" , 1.1, 'J,

C"ill1icr,jt.i1·r~u1, i I. ,1'11(,.11;;1. U,;a WI",d, h ,,~l, J.,4,oJ

G[fII"d&, lb,4l, ,!,', 1~1!. i,

~~ikI, !( ....

l:il""',,., l;J,~,,,," 1.1.", ¥o t';igiP, [!tolTl"", !n C1R111"")" I fullC'll 11". ,(,'

f;~,.;-U. rE:l .

'[j_'~t:.n. ,~~

I~;

II [.N r..fl, N'tln,",,,. IN. I-!~p,.n, r[~,. ~ IlfhlJJJ.oH: N"'"hl~ w.,.. .: " l·kTml,F.T 1·1~,J"",r.~j

!If'f.j, I I'"l i'.II .•

II II'''~ 1 ~Iwn.:-,' '.'~ ~ I H~IOIlI...:iL Bwrl.'l..;-., roo

I

LLJt, T~nllU)'~'~~, ~~

~'W"" J<_" .. lllla).iJ."",.l}.;nm:",'lU<"

fl·r.'I'(,~

r,lll~. I·~III.

J'

l~f.lIJIJ<". !!:uti "'~ "Ill"" l'm'la.. ' t~. ;a

Ii

K:I",;ll;.,ho, R,:r,i. i !!, 1':'I\i.. 17),1$0, lll.!'

I(""i!rdy. k,jul ~. 1,!!jI

tlu .. l.., ~1iIl'''"~Il.It", m. ,(;,

KIiin. '\:'~, Ii.') ,

L""'-1'W<, \.l1li~li;l.tl, TlJ

[..!IIrLMl, r;.~,.;Lo.t",III.~t::j1li'E, lro, !.H, I), .l'1S

ILt;J{~, I:ud""" !)!l., 9>1 '

~1!Iih",., ~l""'''''", ~:l, 1"I'~i ... ·G~"~J"11f Il?"r~,rM L.lI~Il'ir.Ri",~"",i.Ri'il

I ,~'r,.r.l, J ;III. r.!'iirn!1 • ~~ LooII'II:I''II,']lt...;;,ioXJV.I':;Il,gn'·I!ml;l';~, 7'~' I .... ~ )cv; iKlIill (!1'f'r]1I .... , t, H

M

;\1:.., rb~,.'l,t

M~L'\!.", I~"':llcl, 'l'~ ,.tUgll~tll 1\~j'1I1111 '1:"'11 IIH~ M.I~ ...... h!~, ~'i;1or. ~1

,'lilm ' noD'''''''''' !JUI'''''n oj' rr.mDf, JO,.j~

M''''''\fl,Jaltol.', oil?

M.;y!ooIJ, "I\Iillt,· I'9ol

Ml.L~l;IliJI. ('Lll rt,i1f. I ~l, "ll,

M.:! .. 'h:::uL, ;)"t'Clilk.tl.l, u~

Md)IlLlI!R, Mr .... ,.&t, i~t. i~l fiil,,)U:k..,iI!,,8. ' M:~~. k.q, ',;, lEo" L~(;, f~~, 11M, 171

M.H;. I""''', II l""Ji,t, If'. o,I<t Mlillll"' ..... rl, VI.'1,liIJ,P i !I.~, 'TIhi-ol'y', GlI1" ,;-"

N,

N"ptJ"" .. X.1:n ~r "r 1'1 fitnom, ·ljI.,;

']\0';,1'1,1- m.~lw,d( 11i1! t.i.ll~hl, ~ : .. ~-I

o

!Jli<iitI."!II,f, nmr;loj1lti! I'" \j

.'

1.''''11111>. f,crl .. ,r. \KI, lit

~'J:iotl, J~", t'! 1~"W,'"'1 h~I:!W, 11'"~IrJ. I'H~

Ibl';" .. I',llLl",<'!..~".)'3.I~,I1', 1\1o:!i~, .'III'HLTIlH! ;)Iii.!!, iH I).,:rltl, 'rl~ 1(.1

I~"w~, M>LII"d, oj~

Q

qlJ.ll'ir, Mill " L:y.

It

I!!J.~. 1'100., [~". I 1 !is t1,<t.f,gJ.'1;. \l..!11ti...1!I. !~'"

RClI i J.I''''',...·An811m' .If" M:.lq.no, l.t~., 1'\oJ"., .~ lkJ;:l~I.'O.IN.,71 Illo1!'!"""'t .lnlj"..JMl!jl'l~~. ~U' IiliMd3~\I'i~, I)' ..

,II

~:t...are 'rc\'C.S.I~~, 'I~, I,H, '·IH, '~'1, III

$;].11' '\'il:l'ju, '~~;'" (I~ ~>IJ""',II.f

:It.bw!,ll,"]JI, ~.". 'f,l, fli,,;>,J •• ~

Scbld, M.nk rL7 .

" ".ulli. r'~d~

~rlij!jli'T, h~"1;. Maril~ [ad, ~fi

~~~"" ~."",,I,\J' ~d"i, ~.I', ~~ ~lI7II.iIi:l'l. lIil,\l;~r,~. oj~,

lr

,c.lint.. 'Ittim" 'JI, I~~ ~;~I:j EI~~, l j~ Thal"1",,. ~.;" !"~~r!t Hl lhaj .. h;, lEI

'1'1',,11 il!i;ili\o 1", 1~ ,~, r.j..llj .... i'l

TI1t'"' kol.n·PI~"'i''''' LI ,w

V

\, .. b, J'Ii'gj;Jj, Nil""",

\'!i'\.K"', G'i"""L,J.11 Vb...u. q-" •• i. ,,[, tn't:IJ.n(i. b"f"'",,'Ffrlrn:lf3"oj'i

19<~.L dJrull, 1J1~wm • .tl

II""""" .M.,q~I.iQt'. 'fI'~, 'if" nil. kid, ti~

10iOf, I~,.I~(" 11,

w

W';),~,~, h .. r1, I~

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