Low light photography is not necessarily just night photography, as many people assume.

There could be different amounts of light coming from various sources and whatever is less than daytime light outside, I consider low-light. Indoors photography without much ambient light (as in many of our homes) as well as the light that is barely visible to our eyes at night, is also considered to be low-light. In this article, I will provide tips on how to take pictures in various low-light environments, whether indoors or outdoors.

Antelope Canyon, 5 second exposure @ f/10, ISO 200 Before we go any further, let s first identify the varying levels of low-light and categorize them, so that we could refer to them in examples. Although it is very hard to categorize the amount of light, due to the fact that it is a long range of light between very bright and pitch black, just for the sake of making it easier to explain and refer to, I still decided to divide it into three categories: 1. 2. Visible: in daylight, when you happen to be in shadow areas behind buildings, under large trees or bridges. Low Light: after sunset, when you can still clearly see everything around you, but you can tell that it is getting dark or when you are indoors. 3. Dark: at night, when you can only see the brightest objects.

I m sure you have come across all of the above situations at some point of time with your camera and perhaps even found it challenging and frustrating to take pictures in those conditions. Let s go through the above one at a time and see what you can do to take good pictures in all low light conditions. Have you had a situation where you were in a shadow during the day and tried to take a picture? This was one of my frustrations when I bought my first DSLR, because I couldn t understand why my pictures were coming out blurry. At times, the images on the rear LCD of the camera would look OK, but when I eventually viewed them on the

computer screen, they would all be a little blurry. I had no idea why it was happening and really needed to find out why. As I later found out, apparently, our eyes can see a much broader range of light, which is known as dynamic range in photography, than our cameras do. Therefore, even though you might think that there is plenty of light when you are in a shadow area, in fact, there might be inadequate light for the camera to effectively capture the image. Depending on your camera settings, there might be two consequences: a) you will have a blurry image and b) you might have a lot of noise in your image.

Daytime low-light, 1/125th @ f/8, ISO 800 So, why do blurry images happen? The answer is in the camera shutter speed. If the shutter speed is too low, you will get camera shake and/or motion blur from moving subjects. To avoid camera shake, you should always try to shoot at faster shutter speeds. You might ask what is a fast shutter speed? . It depends on the focal length of your lens. If you are photographing a subject with a wide-angle lens between 10-24mm, you might get away with shutter speeds under 1/50th of a second, depending on your camera hand-holding technique. If you are using a telephoto lens longer than 100mm, I recommend applying the hand-holding rule to calculate your optimal shutter speed. For most day-today photography, a shutter speed of 1/200th-1/250th of a second should be fast enough to yield sharp results and avoid motion blur. But to shoot at fast shutter speeds such as 1/200th of a second means that you need to have plenty of light. In our situation, we don t have enough light, so what do we do? The first thing you will need to try to do is decrease your lens aperture to the lowest number on the camera. Decreasing your aperture means more light will pass through the lens into the camera body, which will allow you to shoot at faster shutter speeds. In order to do that,

Nikon 50mm f/1. it s more like 3 times) compared to non-VR lenses.Nikon 50mm f/1.0 will quadruple the shutter speed to 1/500th of a second. Most consumer zoom lenses are limited to f/3. Fast prime lens .8 II. There is a similar selection for Canon Canon cameras: Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 and some prime (fixed) lenses can go all the way to f/1. Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 USM.8. depending on your budget: Nikon 50mm f/1. that s too bad. so you will have to make sure to acquire correct focus before you take a picture.0 aperture and 1/125th shutter speed. start lowering your aperture till you get to the lowest number your camera will allow. while professional zoom lenses have an aperture of f/2. I recommend getting one of the following prime lenses. while lowering it to f/4. Decreasing aperture to f/5. . which is plenty to freeze motion. Canon EF 28mm f/1. Then.4G.8Dand Nikon 35mm f/1. How will decreasing aperture affect your shutter speed? Let s say you were shooting at f/8. If you shoot Nikon. just keep in mind that decreasing the aperture to the lowest number will also decrease the depth of field.you would have to either switch to Aperture Priority mode or manually override your aperture in whatever mode you are using.4 or f/1.6 will double your shutter speed to 1/250th of a second. because VR/IS truly does work! The latest VR II technology by Nikon can allow you to shoot up to 4 times slower when it comes to shutter speed without adding any blur to the picture (realistically.5 for maximum aperture.4 USM. The lowest number depends on the speed of your lens. If you have a fast lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.4G AF-S Does your lens have VR (Vibration Reduction) or IS (Image Stabilization)? If no.2.8G (DX only).

Zoom lenses with a fixed aperture and VR/IS technology are professional. you will need to increase your ISO to 400 to get the shutter speed of 1/100th of a second. The main thing to remember.6G VR and Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.8G ED VR II What if you have already decreased your aperture to the lowest number and you are still getting slow shutter speeds? The answer then is to increase the camera ISO (sensor sensitivity). Technically. to make the sensor collect light faster. the shutter speeds in the cameras a little different (1/30th. increasing the camera ISO from 100 to 200. So. If you are shooting at ISO 100 and your camera is telling you that the shutter speed is 1/25th of a second. Then. Fast lens with VR II . With a VR/IS system.Nikon 70-200mm f/2. you could lower the shutter speed all the way to 1/30th of a second or more and still get the same sharp image! Many of the consumer zoom lenses such as Nikon 18-55mm f/3. expensive lenses such as the Nikon 70-200mm f/2. increasing it further more from 200 to 400 increases the shutter speed from 1/50th of a second to 1/100th of a second.5-5. 1/60th and 1/125th of a second). but I used the above numbers to make it easier to understand. these lenses are also slower and not as sharp as prime lenses such as the Nikon 50mm f/1. How did I calculate that? Basically.6G VR II come with VR technology. While it is certainly nice to have VR in such versatile lenses. increases your shutter speed from 1/25th of a second to 1/50th of a second. unfortunately.8G VR II (read my Nikon 70-200mm VR II review) pictured below and are also great choices for low-light photography.4G. .So. doubling your ISO doubles your shutter speed. is that doubling ISO doubles your shutter speed. let s say that with a regular lens you need 1/250th of a second to get a sharp picture.

But then you get to the point where you are maxed out on the aperture and have already reached ISO 800 and you are still not able to get sharp photos. Most modern cameras can handle noise levels up to ISO 800 pretty well. as it says above. the first thing to try is to decrease your aperture and increase your ISO. Obviously. What do you do then? . Let s now move on to a more complex situation. while top-of-the-line full frame professional cameras can produce very little noise even at ISO 3200 and above. ISO 1600 Be careful with increasing your ISO to a big number. as higher sensor sensitivity means that more grain/noise will appear in your images. 1/25th @ f/8.Standing in the shadows. where the amount of light is quickly diminishing after sunset or you are shooting indoors in a poorly lit environment.

ISO 200 The closer you are to the light source.Sunset. Rocky Mountain Roller Girls in ambient light (no flash) . the more light there will be for your camera to use. Large windows are great sources of light. 1/10th @ f/4. I forgot to bring the flashes when we were photographing the below group. so open up those curtains and blinds and let the light get into the room.8. so we quickly found a solution by opening up a large gate and letting lots of exterior light in.

5 stops of negative exposure compensation anything above that might not allow me to recover the details I need. Push your ISO to a higher number and take a shot.That s right learn to stabilize yourself and hold your camera better. There are plenty of noise-removal programs out there such as Noise Ninja that can help you clean up an image. I can push up ISO to 6400 every once in a while. you have very limited options to recover an image. captured in RAW In low-light environments. That s what happens when there is not enough light the camera cannot differentiate between objects anymore. See if the level of noise is acceptable to you. In some cases. Try it it really works! Some photographers give advice to bracket exposures. Try them out and see if the final result after post-processing is good enough for your needs. sit down with your right knee on the ground and use your left leg as support by resting your left arm on it. because I can recover some detail from a picture if I overexpose or underexpose it. Pull your elbows towards your body. Sunset Gazebo. With a JPEG image. What is better. Although I personally try to stay below ISO 800. I intentionally underexpose an image by using the exposure compensation button. On my full-frame Nikon D700 body. I personally always shoot in RAW. Use your left hand to support the camera by putting it with your palm facing up in between the camera lens and the camera body (or wherever the center of the weight is). a blurry image or a sharp image with more noise? I prefer the latter. If you can. the camera might start to lose its autofocus capabilities. just like if you were to point it at a . I typically allow 1-1. Gently squeeze the shutter button and see if you can get a sharp image. Practice this and other techniques and you will be able to shoot at very low shutter speeds without introducing camera shake. when needed. which increases camera shutter speed. sometimes I push mine to ISO 1600 or even 3200. but I personally prefer to use exposure compensation instead.

In that case. I shot many of the images at night hand-held with the D700. On Nikon DSLRs. In many cases you won t be able to tell if the camera was able to focus correctly on the subject until you take the picture. but very helpful in low-light situations. It truly does make a huge difference in low-light environments. Fireworks. A full frame sensor is expensive. If I had a DX sensor. try to re-acquire focus by half-pressing the shutter/autofocus button. because I was already pushing the low-light capability of the D700 at that point. make sure that it looks sharp in the viewfinder. definitely turn it on in dim environments. If it is blurry. During my last trip to Vegas. I would have needed a tripod to get similar images. Many DSLR cameras are equipped with an AF assist light in front of the camera that lights up just like a flashlight when there is not enough light to illuminate the subject. If you have such functionality. make sure to zoom in and check for sharpness of the image on the rear LCD of the camera. captured on a tripod . The Nikon D700 (FX/Full Frame) has approximately the same amount of noise at ISO 3200 as the Nikon D300 (DX/Cropped sensor) at ISO 800.plain white wall. When you focus on a subject. switch your camera from continuous mode ( C ) to single ( S ) mode to turn on this feature.

Just use a longer time period for your timer and you should be good to go. With a tripod. Light Painting. but I personally prefer using a tripod for most of my low-light photography. try using your camera timer. because you still have to press the shutter button. try to use your AF Assist light in the camera to get good focus. especially if you use different colors. Light painting is pretty cool and you can get some really nice shots by painting with the light. which temporarily vibrates the setup. Most of the time. because you have no light to work with. but if you do not have one. but not least.3. 30 seconds exposure. In poorly lit environments and at night. slow shutter speeds mean that you would get a lot of motion blur in your images. Obviously. Hand-held photography is simply impossible at night (unless you want to create a really bad-looking effect of motion blur). If your subject is far away or you do not have a flashlight. because you deal with very slow shutter speeds and every vibration matters. autofocus will not function. setting your lens to infinity focus works great. try using a flashlight to illuminate your subject and allow your camera to focus. try using a monopod or a tripod that will really help with keeping your gear still. not one of those cheap plastic ones. use a flash light to add some light to it. A monopod is helpful in some situations. but in some cases it is not a problem and sometimes it even looks cool! Make sure to use a sturdy tripod. If your subject is too dark. It is not as good of a solution as remote control. you could set your ISO to the lowest number to decrease the amount of noise and shoot at very slow shutter speeds. but in some cases you will have to try to . It is best to use a remote control or a cable release system with your camera in those situations. If your subject is further away. many of the above tips are useless. you will need to manually focus on your subject. f/6. A good.And last. If your subject is close. ISO 200 When it is too dark. sturdy tripod is a must for night photography.

I assume. and letting it expose for those 30 seconds (which turns into a long time. do not move your tripod after focus is acquired. that you go ALL manual. it is waaaay too dark out here for me to take a decent photo"). After that it will turn into a bit of a game. since the automatics inside the camera will forever only register "darkness-darknessdarkness"! . But it means.which will give you better defined light . or . Then it's time to quickly switch to manual focus and focus on the available light sources. of course).take a picture. which makes it extra pleasing. Once you acquire focus. Exposure will need to become a bit of a guess. make sure to turn off autofocus so that the camera does not attempt to focus again. Obviously.you don't have a remote control) and have it take the pic all by itself without you touching it. then adjust the focus as needed. of course. I don t have to say much here just practice as much as you can and you will get better in no time! Low-light photography is a lot of fun and you should definitely play and experiment with your camera in different lighting conditions. you will have an opportunity to take some amazing pictures that have a different feel to them compared to everyday pictures in daylight :) TIP: When there is only a small light source and a lot of darkness. Assuming that you work with a tripod. If you do not know what reciprocity means. more so when you get a good result and begin to see more in the photo than you were able to see with your own eyes.a smaller aperture and even longer shutter speeds of up to 20 or even 30 seconds. If you learn how to take pictures in low light.like me . since your camera will always keep thinking "it is too dark for me here". With auto focus settings this will lead to the fact that your auto focus can NO longer focus. you can test large apertures and comparatively short shutter speeds (which will still be a lot longer than those you get during daylight. you'll wait and see . You then best even set the camera on timer (if .my daughter swims the length of the Olympic sized pool in that time). your camera will register for "a lot of darkness" (actually it will "think": "Hey. I highly recommend reading this article about it. There is way too little for it to see.

It is very disappointing when you take a picture at a special moment and images come out soft/blurry or out of focus. 5. the more noise you will see in the image. Start with setting your camera to the lowest ISO base value (in my Nikon camera it is ISO 200). The higher the ISO (sensor sensitivity). Sharp photos are much more appealing than soft images. is softness and blur in pictures. I suggest reading my article on understanding ISO. Slow shutter speed could cause camera shake. you need to address them all at the same time. I will go through the techniques that I use to make sure that my images always come out tack sharp. Let s start with the reasons why an image might come out blurry: 1. . Remember that the camera base ISO will produce the highest quality images with maximum sharpness. 4. In this article. which would produce a blurry image Poor focus acquisition would result in a soft image Your subject could be moving and causing a motion blur You might have a bad lens or a lens that is not capable of producing sharp photos Your ISO could be set to a very high number. 3. 1. resulting in lots of noise and loss of detail Sharp Photo In order to resolve these issues.HOW TO TAKE SHARP PICTURES One of the things that makes photography frustrating. which will help achieve optimal sharpness. 2.

If you have a zoom lens such as the 18-55mm (for Nikon DX sensors). the camera automatically increases ISO to keep the shutter speed above 1/100 of a second. if you have your lens zoomed at 150mm. Here are some examples: o o o o o 50mm on Nikon DX (D3000/D5000/D90): 1/75 (50mm x 1. Why ISO 1600 is the maximum I recommend? Because anything higher than that in an entry-level DSLRs produces too much noise. you need to do the math accordingly. set the Minimum Shutter Speed to the longest focal range of the lens (135mm). then you would have to adjust it manually in low-light between the lowest value and ISO 1600.5) 150mm on Nikon DX (D3000/D5000/D90): 1/225 (150mm x 1. I would recommend bumping up the Minimum shutter speed to something like 1/200-1/250 (I will go through proper camera handholding techniques so that you could shoot at even lower shutter speeds in a separate article). Hand-holding rule: If you have a zoom lens that goes beyond 100mm.5) . Maximum sensitivity: 1600.5) 200mm on Nikon DX (D3000/D5000/D90): 1/300 (200mm x 1.5) 300mm on Nikon DX (D3000/D5000/D90): 1/450 (300mm x 1. just multiply the result by 1. If you do not have Auto-ISO.5) 100mm on Nikon DX (D3000/D5000/D90): 1/150 (100mm x 1. For Nikon cameras with a 1.6. If you have shaky hands. you might want to keep the maximum ISO to 800. which states that the shutter speed should be equivalent to the distance in mm of the lens. 3. your shutter should be at least 1/150 of a second. Keep in mind that this rule applied to old 35mm film cameras. set it to On with the following settings: ISO sensitivity auto control: On . so if you own an entry-level DSLR with a crop factor (not full frame).2.5x crop factor. multiply by 1. On older-generation DSLRs such as Nikon D40/D80/D200. For example. Minimum shutter speed: 1/100. it basically tells the camera to automatically change the sensitivity of the sensor based on light availability. I would recommend applying the general hand-holding rule .5. If you have an Auto-ISO feature in your camera. which has a negative impact on overall image quality. What this does. which is 1/200 of a second. If the amount of light entering the lens decreases and the shutter speed goes below 1/100 of a second. whereas for Canon cameras.

while the camera automatically meters and guesses what the shutter speedshould be to properly expose the image. for example f/3. Snap an image or two and see if you are getting any blur in your image. you tell the camera what the lens aperture should be (the f number. So. 99% of the time. it means that you simply do not have enough .5). set your camera to aperture-priority mode and lower the aperture to the lowest possible number. point it to the subject that you want to photograph and half-press the shutter. After you set the right metering mode and your lens to aperture priority.Flower 4. Doing so should show you the shutter speed on the bottom of the viewfinder. If the shutter speed is below 1/100. 6. so that the whole scene is assessed to estimate the correct shutter speed. 5. If the shutter speed is showing 1/100 or more. you should be good to go. In aperture-priority mode. I shoot in Aperture-Priority mode and set aperture to the lowest value when I shoot in low light. Set your metering to Matrix on Nikon or Evaluative on Canon. I typically review my images on the back of the camera at 100% and make sure that nothing is blurry.

as your camera focus directly impacts image sharpness. If the whole image is blurry and nothing is sharp. opening up windows to let some light in or turning the lights on will help to increase your shutter speed. 8. acquire correct focus. especially when you have to deal with slow shutter speeds. it is most likely a slow shutter speed or improper camera holding technique that is the issue. the blurrier the images. The same technique works great for your photography. I recommend enabling it . there is a direct correlation between the camera shutter speed and blurry images. As I said above. o The center focus point is generally the most accurate in cameras. so try it and see how it works for you. without touching the shutter.light. pull the stock tightly into the shoulder. breathing. is that you can at least adjust the shutter speed to a higher number and avoid camera shake. The first thing you need to learn is how to differentiate between a camera shake/motion blur and a focus problem. You wouldn t want to move around while trying to shoot you need to stand as steady and stable as possible. If you are having problems acquiring focus because your focus point is elsewhere. here are some things that I recommend for you: o Lack of light can cause auto-focus malfunction. Make sure there is plenty of light for your camera to properly focus. then recompose without moving my body and then shoot. I recommend holding the camera just like you would hold a rifle (except your right hand goes on the shutter instead of the trigger). This way. This one is very important. while something else in the foreground or background is perfectly in focus and sharp. If it doesn t help. factors such as your stance. The difference between shooting a camera versus a rifle. 7. resulting in inaccurate focus acquisition by the camera. I can use the center focus point (which almost never has any issues with acquiring correct focus). The lower the shutter speed (below 1/250 of a second). try to hold the camera steady without shaking it too much and take another picture. If you are still getting blurry images. When a subject in your image is soft or out of focus. If you are having problems acquiring a good focus. Learn how to focus correctly and deal with focusing issues. Why? Because while hand-holding a camera. For those without the Auto-ISO feature try to bump up your ISO all the way to ISO 800 or even 1600 and see if you can get faster shutter speeds. it is a focus issue. whereas you cannot do the same on a gun. focusing exclusively with my thumb. Think of it as holding a rifle on your hand. 9. while pushing the shutter trigger with my index finger. I will post another how-to on proper camera hand-holding techniques. with one of your legs on the front and your body balance spread across both legs. try increasing the Minimum Shutter Speed value to a higher number in your AutoISO settings. If you have such a feature in your camera. exhale and then shoot. I personally exhale when I shoot very slow shutter speeds and it does help me to get sharper images. camera hand-holding technique all play a huge role in stabilizing the camera and producing shake-free images. I set my camera this way. If you are indoors. but for now. Many cameras allow having a separate button for focusing. I recommend moving it back to the center. While hand-holding your camera.

Make your subject freeze. while not moving the body. My recommendation is to place the rectangular focus area to an area with the most contrast. Some entry-level DSLRs have a very small viewfinder. especially for high-speed objects like cars. if you have a white wall with a dark object on it and you put your focus point in between the wall and the object. leaving the shutter to both focus and shoot is the best option for convenience reasons. making it hard or sometimes even impossible to see if you are getting correct focus. your camera will instantly acquire correct focus. o The camera auto-focus system works by looking at the contrast around the focus area. Sometimes people like the effect of the motion blur. while having a motion blur on his/her hand. To reproduce this effect on your camera. it will never be able to acquire focus. lines separating different colors. even if you do everything right. . On the other hand. The result should be a sharp picture of the person s body. Ask your subject to move his/her hand quickly. have them freeze and not move while you take their picture. numbers and letters printed on objects. your images might still come out blurry just because your subject moved while the shutter was open. In all other cases. you need to have a good viewfinder and a good vision. 10. so just take multiple pictures while constantly re-adjusting the focus and review images on the camera LCD. Examples are: edges of objects. For example. This is calledmotion blur. If you are photographing a person. o Focus multiple times until you can clearly see in the viewfinder that the object is in focus. etc. set your camera to Shutter-Priority mode. if you try to focus your camera on a clean white wall. For this one. Unfortunately. then set your shutter to 1/100 of a second or less.in low-light situations. When you work with slow shutter speeds. because the camera will not see any areas of contrast. there is not much you can do if you cannot tell if the subject is in focus by looking into the viewfinder.

everything in the image is sharp. while the fan is blurred through motion blur. that I specifically created by shooting the image in low shutter speed of 1/20 of a second (the image was shot handheld).An example of motion blur As you can see from the above image. Here is another example of motion blur that I shot at night on a tripod (shutter speed is 2 seconds): .

You can even lower down the minimum shutter speed in your Auto ISO settings to something like 1/50 of a second and still get sharp images. allowing one to shoot at lower shutter speeds and still get sharp images. When I . Get a good fast prime lens such as the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 lenses.Another example of motion blur 11. ranging between $100 to $400 for the f/1. they are also capable of producing pictures with beautiful bokeh (nicely blurred backgrounds). If you have one of those lenses. Because of the shallow depth of field. because prime lenses have simpler design and are optimized to perform for only one focal range. go ahead and try lowering your shutter speed to a lower value. prime lenses are much faster than most zoom lenses and are excellent choices for low-light and portrait photography. Many of the consumer zoom lenses have some sort of anti-shake/vibration reduction technology in them.4 model. Although you lose the ability to zoom in and out. Very few zoom lenses can achieve the same optical quality as the prime lenses. if you have it. 12.8 DX or 50mm f/1.4 / f/1. Make sure that your vibration reduction (VR on Nikon) or image stabilization (IS on Canon) is set to On on your lens. These prime lenses are relatively inexpensive.

As you can see from the above image. When photographing people or animals. I delete images like this. but I m glad I kept it for this article.4 and f/2.8. especially when dealing with large apertures between f/1. Take a look at this photograph of my son Osman: Bad focus example Normally. 13. give it a try and you will not regret it. As long as the eye of the subject is sharp. If you have never used a prime lens before. compare it to this image: . This is very important. I just could not believe how much of a difference it made in terms of sharpness. I failed to acquire correct focus on Osman s eye and somehow focused on his hair instead. Now.got my hands on my first prime lens. always focus on the closest eye to you. the image will most likely be acceptable.

while for portraits. I immediately made a suggestion to clean his lens. 14. I use apertures of f/1. It was so dirty that I couldn t believe he was still able to take pictures. 15. Most lenses are sharpest between f/5.Good focus example Such a big difference between the two. I will soon post a quick how-to for lens cleaning. so if you are shooting during a bright sunny day. Aperture also plays a big role in achieving optimal sharpness. Clean your lenses! An amateur photographer approached me once and asked for advice on what he could do to bring more contrast and sharpness to his images. but for now just go to a local camera store and ask for a good lens .4 to f/8. The second image looks much sharper. Just keep in mind that playing with aperture changes the depth of field and will have an impact on the lens bokeh. For landscape photography. try increasing your aperture to a number between f/4 and f/8 and see if it makes a difference. When I saw the front element of his lens. I mostly use apertures between f/8 and f/10. although I was using the same camera settings. depending on what I want to do with the background. A dirty and a greasy front element of the lens is a guarantee to inaccurate camera focusing and poor image contrast.6 and f/8.

city lights and other cool stuff at night. Sometimes you ll get just enough of the face (of . Shoot in bursts. The below image would not be possible to capture without a tripod: Waterfall.cleaning solution along with microfiber cloth. Firing off 3 or 5 shot bursts can also help freeze the motion of your subject. Put a drop or two of the solution on the microfiber cloth and gently wipe the front of the lens element starting from the center of the lens to the edges. to minimize camera shake. fireworks. then photograph your subject in bursts by just holding the shutter button. 16. For shooting lightning storms. Do it multiple times until the front element looks very clean. a sturdy tripod is a must! Don t buy a cheap tripod designed for point and shoot cameras. especially when with a bit of panning. Shooting moving subjects continuously (especially children) helps improve the odds that you ll get a shot that is spot-on. in clockwise movements. sturdy tripod that can handle your DSLR. but rather invest in a heavy duty. shot with a tripod 17. Set your camera to AF-C (Auto Focus in Continuous Mode). Having a self-timer mode or a cable/wireless shutter release is also very helpful. Get a tripod for low-light situations.

This valuable tip was provided by our reader Eric. leaving you with a nice isolation that highlights the emotion of that moment.say a happily-running kid) in focus then everything else gets blurred because of the motion. .

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