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V E G E TA B L E S
Pea
(Pisum sativum)
General Information
The pea is such an ancient food plant that its center of
origin is uncertain, although it is usually attributed to a
band of territory sweeping from the Near East into central
Asia. Part of the legume family, peas in their dried form
have been used as a staple food since ancient times, being
found even in Egyptian tombs. Hot pea soup was peddled
in the streets of Athens, while fried peas were sold to spec-
tators in lieu of popcorn at the Roman circus and in the-
aters. Upper-class Romans ate their peas with salted whale
meat, while the lower classes had to make do with por-
ridge. A new, sweet-tasting pea was introduced in the six-
teenth century, tailor-made for the new custom of eating
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V E G E TA B L E S
peas fresh. When Catherine de Medici married King drooping. Prepare them on the day that you buy them. A
Henry II of France, she introduced his countrymen to yellowish pod indicates overmaturity.
small, sweet, fresh piselli novelli (new peas), which she had
brought from her home in Florence, Italy. These tender Culinary Uses
gems were adopted enthusiastically by the fashionable Fresh garden peas have a delicate, sweet flavor that is well
French, who dubbed them petits pois, the name still in use worth the time-consuming effort of shelling them. Use as
worldwide for a very tasty type of baby pea. The first peas soon as possible after buying because their sugar quickly
in America were planted by Christopher Columbus in turns to starch and they lose flavor. The finest of all are
1493 on Isabella Island, and the new vegetable was those picked very young and called petits pois (tiny, sweet,
adopted enthusiastically by the Indians. The cultivated pea very young, and tender), but other varieties are also delec-
is comprised of two main varieties—the field pea, now table. Peas can be boiled or steamed, puréed, and used in
used mostly for forage and for dried peas, and the garden soups, salads, savory dishes, and casseroles; they are deli-
pea, with its high sugar content, considered by some to be cious served with fresh mint. Canned or frozen peas lack
the aristocrat of the pea family. much of the flavor of fresh peas.
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VA R I E T I E S
English peas have pods that are not edible. The large,
bulging, grass-green pods enclose peas that are typically
round and sweet. Most are picked when they are still
immature and their sugar content is highest. As they
continue to ripen, some of the sugar turns to starch,
and the amount of protein increases. Peas intended for
drying are left to mature.
Snow peas have firm, crisp, flat, bright green edible pods
that taper at both ends and contain very small, under-
developed peas. The classic snow pea must be picked
before the inner peas begin to bulge out and stringiness
develops; like other peas, they should be consumed as
soon after picking as possible, since their high sugar
content quickly turns to starch. For snow peas that are
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