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PRINCESS BLOUSE PATTERN
* chest = 91 cm * full length = 38 cm * Across back = 35 cm

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FRONT PART
* A - B = full length = 38 cm * A-C = armhole =(chest/4)-4 =(91-4)/4 =18.7cm * C-D = chest loose =(chest/4)+2.5 =(91/4)+2.5= 25.2cm * A-I = front part = chest/3 = 91/3 = 30.3cm * A-E = shoulder = AB/2 = 35/2 = 17.5 cm * A-F = Neck Breadth = (chest/12)+1.5 = 9 cm

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In the princess blouse model sew the main darts straight opposite shoulders and side darts in the arm hole to have the cup shape to fit the breast part. Attach the front and back parts and sew a zip on the back side...

copyright @ 2010 Posted by THAZNIM 1 comments Links to this post

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ANARKALI CHURIDAR (1) ARM HOLE (2) BABY CHEMISE (1) BLOUSE (2) CHURIDAR (3) CLOTH (1) arifa thaznim
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Hi guys, this is an anarkali model churidar which i sewed recently. Let me explain u the model. Its a kinda churidar in which the top is a combination of a princess blouse and a umbrella skirt. Ive already discussed them seperately, plz check them for verification. The blouse is similar to the sari blouse model but i didnt use the patti part (it depends, if u wish u can for the stiffness around the lower breast)

Ive used 2 types of cloth one is a dark brown cloth for the breast(1m) and pant(2m) another one is the light cotton material(5m) for the umbrella part and the sleeves.

Ok the above picture is the breast part in which front and the back sides are cut and i have

LEARN STITCHING sewed 2 darts on either side of the front part one is opposite shoulders and other is on the armhole. As u are folding the cloth twice. Mine is breast length = 13" (" --> inch) umbrella length = 30" + 5" for waist plz check how to sew a umbrella frock . . U'll not get material of the same length and breadth so u need to cut the cloth and attach them according to the size. Then join the shoulders. Fine now lets come to the umbrella part. the full size should be 70 inches length and breadth[(30+5)*2] . so for this u need to have a square shaped cloth(all sides equal length) and u have to fold it twice as in the above pic. First u need to decide the lenght of the umbrella part. It will be best if u prepare a pattern first.

750 and took a day to sew it. Now unfold the cloth u'll get an beautiful umbrella shape and make sure the joining of both parts are of equal size and then attach them as shown below. I spent Rs.e.... Okay so i hope i look nice in my new anarkali salwar. If ur trying it for the first time. plz start with a pattern . pattern Then finally attacth sleeves and finish the neck part using cross piece. 70 inch) next draw the semicircle at a distance of 5th inch and 35th inch and then cut them.LEARN STITCHING So the above is the umbrella bottom . i have used 5 inches for the waist and 30 inches for the length *(total length of the cloth is the twice of it i.

. If you find any difficulty in the armhole area. copyright @ 2010 Posted by THAZNIM 6 comments Links to this post Labels: ANARKALI CHURIDAR Reactions: How to cut and sew a armhole Armhole is a very typical area where a perfect pattern and measurements help you to sew your sleeve perfectly. bye guys.LEARN STITCHING else for sure u'll make mistake. In the above diagram (measurements in inch) C-D = chest loose= (chest/4)+1.5" . Hope u enjoyed my tutor..5" A-F = neck breadth=(chest/12)+. let me give you a detail description..

First you need to mark chest loose then mark the neck breadth and the shoulder breadth . that gives you the armhole length and E'-D is armhole breadth. The outer curve is at a distance of two inch and thats the mark where you have to cut for the back part of the blouse.5 or 3.LEARN STITCHING F-E = shoulder breadth= 2. The inner curve which is at a distance of one inch is the mark for the front part and you have to cut the armhole at the inner curve. This is how you have to cut the armhole.5 inches E-E' =armhole length (join E to E') Then draw two curves at the distance of one and two inches as shown in the pattern. I hope it helps you get a better understanding.e E-E' . next mark a straight line from E to the chest loose line(CD) i. Next thing is that you have to draw two curves at a distance of one inch and two inch. copyright @ 2010 Posted by THAZNIM Labels: ARM HOLE Reactions: 11 comments Links to this post TYPES OF NEEDLES People who are involved in sewing should be aware of the types of needles that exists.There are different kinds of needles available in .

17. NEEDLE NO-18 This needle is used for tarning purpose.9 betweens .18 Posted by THAZNIM Labels: NEEDLE Reactions: 4 comments Links to this post HOW TO SEW CUTTORI BLOUSE . Particularly it is used in woolen cloths to do knitting work.no.8.LEARN STITCHING market.5 tapestry -no. Starters who wish to learn embroidery can use these types of needles.18. 7. NEEDLE NO-17 This needle is used for embroidery on canvass cloths.9 These types of needles are used to sew with hands. KINDS OF NEEDLE sharps . 8.6 embroidery -no.22 chenille -n0. It is used to put embroidery on tough thick cloths. needle no-7 needle no-8 needle no-9 needle no-17 needle no-18 needle no-22 NEEDLE NO-7 . Let us see them.9 darners -no.n0.7. NEEDLE NO-22 This is used for embroidery works. It has sharper ends and smaller length. The opposite ends of the needle are bigger.

This is their difference. Now draw the pattern for a normal blouse. Next mark 1/2 inch above on both ends of red line and below center of red line. First step is to learn the normal blouse if else you'll find it difficult so take a look at the sari blouse post. In the above image you can see the red line at a distance of 12 inch. Next for the cuttori blouse you have to draw one more curve and cut it like the image below. Cuttori blouses are used normally to mingle two colours in the front part. The small cut is for neck and the long cut is for armhole.LEARN STITCHING A cuttori blouse is slightly different from the normal saree blouse. This the procedure of the normal blouse. . i've used the blue pen to draw the curve. From the shoulder measure 12 inch and draw a straight line . Next cut along the blue curve. Now i will teach the pattern for the cuttori blouse. Next draw a curve over the red line. Only one step modification is made in the cuttori blouse compared to the normal blouse.

Thats the only difference in cuttori blouse. Sewers should know the varieties of cloth exist. Best of luck. After sewing the dart stitch them together so that agains comes back to the shape of normal blouse. You can use a contrast colour or the same colour. Have a perfect pattern which helps you to cut the cloth correctly. You can see the red curve i've drawn. You can see a triangle shape thats the place where you have to sew dart.LEARN STITCHING From the neck take a curve to the blue line curve. Posted by THAZNIM 7 comments Links to this post Labels: CUTTORI BLOUSE Reactions: TYPES OF CLOTH Cloths are the basic part of sewing. Below the types of cloths and their qualities are discussed. Next cut along the red curve and only one main dart is sewed in that part. Cloths are of three types vegetable fibre . Then attach the patti part and finish the whole blouse.

LEARN STITCHING animal fibre synthetic fibre Vegetable fibres are got through natural ways i. This pant has long thin legs so that you can make gatherings near the feet.woolen. This is of two types wool worsted wool Synthetic fibre are prepared by artificial means. Many people use synthetic fibre. Animal fibre. Today synthetic fibre has taken a very good place in the field of market. carpet wool Kasmir wool goat fibre Carpet wool is taken from sheeps.e. Kasmir wool is very soft. These wool are very famous for their softness and shine. These kinds are used to produce carpets that are used for various purpose. The basic source is animal. Lots of people use cotton day to day which is available in rates of all range. This is also known as gathering pant. I've used a sample pant to sew it. W oolen is of three types. Anima skins are used to prepare cloths. Posted by THAZNIM Labels: CLOTH Reactions: 0 comments Links to this post HOW TO SEW CHURIDAR PANT This is a pant with some gatherings near the foot.leather can be used as animal fibre. plants and trees. . It is produced from the kashmir sheeps. Cotton is a very good example of this type.. Some insects are used to produce silk threads. Goat fibre is taken from the angora goat.

Next cut along the marking chalk like the one below. Now fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise and then place the sample pant on top of it like shown in the above picture. Next in the remaining cloth we have to cut the a-b part. As the cloth is not so long we have to cut the b-e part first then in the remaining cloth we have to cut the a-b part. You have to cut the a-b part and b-e part seperately and finally attach them together. You can notice i have marked the outline using marking chalk. Next unfold the cloth you'll get seperate two legs. In the picture below i've cut the b-e part first. .LEARN STITCHING The above figure is the stitching pattern for this pant. Stitch the sides and join them together.

SALWAR Reactions: .LEARN STITCHING In the pattern the b-d part is longer than the b-g part so we have to keep gatherings in the b-d part and make it to the equal length of b-g part( refer pattern). After joining the pant is completed. These gatherings will come around the hip so that the cloth will comfortably fit your hip. Leave a small loop in the a-c part to pass the thread. Posted by THAZNIM 26 comments Links to this post Labels: PANT. You can see some gatherings in the b-d part. Next you can join them. Thats wat i have done and made both joining parts of equal diameter.

If your going to sew neck only with the main cloth then take a small square shaped cloth. A neat finishing of the neck gives you a complete dress.LEARN STITCHING HOW TO SEW NECK Neck is an important part of the dress. Always a separate cloth should be attached to sew neck. In the diagram below the light cream colour cloth with stripes is the main cloth where you have to sew neck. The method below is one of its kind. The way you sew the neck shows u how far your good in sewing. There are lots of method to sew neck(another method is crosspiece). Now cut either the main cloth or lining cloth in the shape of neck u want. As the main cloth is transparent i've attached another orange colour cloth(lining material). Now im going to sew neck with the lining material. It also gives thickness so that the dress will work for a long time. To the front view of the main cloth sew the lining cloth . . Remember first put stitches along the shoulders then along the shape of the neck carefully as shown in the image. In the image above i've cut only the neck of the lining cloth.

Now as the lining cloth is on top of the main cloth . Posted by THAZNIM Labels: NECK Reactions: 6 comments Links to this post DARTS . you have turn the lining cloth to the other end so that the main part is visible.LEARN STITCHING Next cut the neck of the main cloth along the shape of the neck. Slowly and carefully put sitches on top of the neck and then finaly u'll finish the neck like the one below. In the above image i've turned the lining cloth and im putting stitches on top of the neck.

these are called darts. 1. In the above diagram A is the cloth where we gonna stitch dart. You sew darts to get the desirable shape of the body. Fold the cloth at the point E (like closing .LEARN STITCHING In the above diagram you can see coloured markings. Darts are mostly used in women’s breast part to get the exact shape.

This is called dart. In the blouse below the cone shape is formed using darts. Basically a women should have 4 inch difference. breast size = 33" waist size = 26" hip size = 37" According to the nature of science the difference between breast size and hip size is 4 inch. 3.LEARN STITCHING a note). opposite to the shoulder. the breast and hip size vary . If you don’t stitch darts then you cannot get the cone or U shape to fit your breast. Next the cloth will look like the diagram B . By stitching the CO line you are hiding a small part of cloth so that a U shape can be formed. 2. Next unfold the cloth . Darts can be stitched in the armhole . That’s it . now see the line CO . Posted by THAZNIM Labels: DARTS Reactions: 3 comments Links to this post WOMEN'S PHYSICAL STRUCTURE The truth is that a women's body shape is not compared with another women's body shape. breast size = 35" waist size = 28" hip size = 38" According to the above measurement . now you can see a U shape where you can fit your breast exactly. Anyways the variation of size in a women's body must be learnt and a women's body size should be compared according to it. that’s the line where you have to put stitches.

waist and hip parts are referred as normal figure. hip size = 37" waist size = 26" difference = 11" hip size = 38" waist size = 28" difference = 10" From the above measurements when comparing the hip and waist size we get 10 to 11 inch difference. NORMAL FIGURE W omen having equal size difference between the breast . Posted by THAZNIM 0 comments Links to this post Labels: MEASUREMENT Reactions: HOW TO SEW NECK .LEARN STITCHING 3 inch. From the above examples remember that the difference between the breast size and hip size is 3 to 4 inch. W omens waist part is 10 to 11 inch smaller than the hip part. breast size = 37" waist size = 30" hip size = 41" breast size = 39" waist size = 32" hip size = 43" The above measurements have a difference of 4 inch between breast and hip.CROSSPIECE METHOD. Women with this kind of figure is called lean figure. LEAN FIGURE W omen having this kind of figure will have lesser measurements compared to the normal figure. These people are fat people. . The size variation between parts will be smaller compared to the normal figure. 43. Now we can also find the difference between hip and waist size. W omen with breast size 41. W omens figure is classified into 3 types. 47 inch will have breast and hip size difference of 5 inch. 45. STOUT STRUCTURE W omen with this kind of structure will have size greater than the normal figure. If the womens size difference follows the above measurements than it is normal figure.

For sari blouse .LEARN STITCHING Crosspiece is one of the method used to sew neck. Crosspiece means cutting the cloth in the cross direction and not in the straight direction. the unfolded side of the crosspiece have to be attached to the outer neck (view part or front part). Next fold oneside and stitch throughout the piece. Join all pieces together. No other method is appropriate to indian sari blouse. take the cloth to be cut. Draw parallel lines of distance one inch (beginners use 2 inch distance) in a cross way manner and not straight. If the cloth is cut straight then the cloth will not expand and so we have to cut large length of cloth. . Use marking chalk to draw lines and then cut along the lines. In the image below . the cloth expands but when you pull it straight the cloth will not expand because the threads are aligned very close without any gap. Crosspiece requires only a small piece of cloth. cross piece is the only method used for neck. Take a cloth crosswise and pull it on both sides . After you fold one side. W hen you pull crosswise the cloth expands because there exists some gaps between the threads. To avoid this we use cross piece. W e use cross piece so that the cloth can be expanded to the maximum and can be attached to the neck .

After you attach the unfold end to the neck again the crosspiece have to be folded like closing the note book.LEARN STITCHING The image shows you how to attach the unfolded end to the neck. In the diagram below i've folded the crosspiece to the inner part of the dress and stitches are been put on top of it. After you fold the cross piece like closing the note book again you have to fold the cross piece once completely into the inner part of the cloth. This is the final fold and the neck is ready after this fold. See the diagram below. Posted by THAZNIM Labels: NECK 14 comments Links to this post . Put stitches close to the unfolded end. Put stitches on top of it.

the calculations for the dress can be made easily. Breast measurement = 36 inch = 36/2 = 18 inch Scale measurement = 18 inch The above following method is used to find the scale measurement for women. Pants are stitched in this method. Women’s drawer is also measured in the same way. ¼ of 36 inch = 9 inch 1/8 of 36 inch = 4 ½ inch Scale measurement is 18 inch. ½ of 18 inch = 9 inch ¼ of 18 inch = 4 ½ inch Hip measurement is 38 inch scale measurement = 38/2 = 19 inch ½ of scale measurement = 19/2 = 9 ½ inch inches to be added = 3 inch = 9 ½ “ + 3” = 12 ½ inch Refer the stitching pattern post to have a clear idea about the scale measurement. After the scale measurement is made. Now let’s see how to take the scale measurement.LEARN STITCHING Reactions: SCALE MEASUREMENT In the art of tailoring . sewing school uses the word ‘scale’ whereas the American sewing school use the word ‘ Drafting Power’. People who learn sewing should learn and understand the scale measurement . Take for example the chest measurement is 36 inch . Hip measurement = 38 inch = 38/2 =19 inch Scale measurement = 19 inch According to the scale measurement in London . Posted by THAZNIM 0 comments Links to this post Labels: MEASUREMENT Reactions: SEW FROCK . The sewing teacher is responsible for the students to make them understand the scale measurement effectively. the scale measurement is very important. This method can also be used to sew dresses for people who wear lower waist.

Posted by THAZNIM 4 comments Links to this post Labels: FROCK. . Fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise . The kid can wear the frock alone else the pant also. UMBRELLA CUT FROCK Reactions: HOW TO SEW A PANT Let us see how to sew a pant. the chest part and the umbrella shaped skirt attached to it. This frock consists of two parts . Next cut along the corners like the image below. place the stitching pattern and mark the edges. Now take the cloth to be stitched.LEARN STITCHING Let me teach you how to sew a frock. We’ll use the sample pant first before stitching with measurement. In this image you can see a frock and a pant. Now take a pant that you have and fits you well. First draw the stitching pattern for all parts to get a clear idea. Sewing a pant is very easy if you know the basic ideas to stitch cloth.

Stitch a small loop in the waist for the thread to pass. Mark the edges using the marking chalk. Next thing to be done is to join the open sides of the pant. A-b = ¼ waist measurement C-d = ¼ hip measurement E-f = ½ leg measurement Measure your waist.then place the pattern on the cloth. Cut along the marking place.Here i've used a bell bottom. . Unfold the cloth and you can see two separate parts of each leg . After you cut along the edges you get the cloth in the shape of the stitching pattern. That’s all simple easy pant is ready. Next join the two parts of the pant. you can use a broad or narrow bottom as per your wish. hip and leg else use the sample pant and draw the stitching pattern.LEARN STITCHING Now draw the stitching pattern using the sample pant. Fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise .

Head Body Leg Hand The joins are of three types Gliding joint Ball And socket joint Hinge joint The spinal cord from the back neck looks like a chain . These people should have sound knowledge of the stitching methods. The fundamental structure of the human body is the Skeleton. The Body around the skeleton is called secondary structure of human anatomy.LEARN STITCHING Posted by THAZNIM Labels: PANT Reactions: 1 comments Links to this post SEW W omen who know stitching can make use of it to earn revenue. Let ‘s now see the eight head policy. Tailor should have a compelete understanding of how to measure The dress have to be stitched exactly according to the measurement and it should fit the human body finely. The human body is divided into 4 parts. The spinal cord starts from the back neck and ends till the hip like a chain EIGHT HEAD POLICY The human body’s head is considered as the fundamental to divide the human body into eight heads or the eight head policy is developed from the shape of the human body . The art of stitching profectly to the Body shape is required. So one should train themselves to stitch perfectly and should have a very good understanding of all the stitching methods. This is called the primary structure of human anatomy. they are as follows Head .

Normal leg structure Close leg structure Open leg structure The womens leg can be divided based on their leg structure Normal leg Close leg Open leg CLOSE LEG The womens thighs are based on the hip measurement.LEARN STITCHING Brest Stomach Hip Thigh Knee Calf Leg bottom Thus the head plays a major role in the women’s body to create the eight Head policy. OPEN LEGS W omen who don’t have equal measurements in their waist and hip parts are discussed here. If the womens hip part is more than ten inch difference with the waist part then there’s lot of flesh in the hip part. Hip part is of three parts Normal hip measure: there should be ten inch variation for the waist and hip measurement Flat hip measure : the waist and hip part have six to eight inch variation Stooping hip measure : The hip and waist have 11 to 13 inch variation. According the the body shape women with fleshy thighs are called close legs. NOTE: according to the equal human measurement . Womens hip part according to the equal measurement of human body should have ten inch difference with the waist measurement. correctly and stitch perfectly. The measurement from the forehead to the back neck(where the spinal cord starts) have to be taken. Women who have fleshy thighs will have different size. Based on this measurement the whole body is divided into eight parts. Posted by THAZNIM 0 comments Links to this post Labels: SEWING TOOLS Reactions: HOW TO STITCH A CHURIDAR . the body shape will vary. Leg structure is of three types. the waist part of womens body is smaller than the hip part.

stitch the sleeve and then stitch the neck. Now measure from the beginning of the shoulder till 13th inch. A small dart straight to the shoulder is enough. now im gonna sitich darts so that cup shape is formed to fit the breast exactly. . [Take a look at the older churidar & salwar post to have a complete idea] Just take the breast part . Stitch darts on both sides of the front piece. It will be fine if you give cross piece to neck. I’ve stitched a normal salwar with some gatherings so that the hip part is comfortable. This is the salwar matching to the above one. you can also stitch darts on the back piece. the breast part and the part below breast. After you finish the breast part join it with the bottom part. When you stitch darts on the front piece don’t bring the darts closer so that you don’t get a cone shape.Stitch darts of length 2 inch so that you get a u shape.LEARN STITCHING This is the new churidar I stitched. This is a normal churidar but I've cut the churidar into two parts and again joined them. Next join the shoulders. Fold and stitch the bottoms and sides. Now stitch a small dart on the armhole and the main dart straight to the shoulder. Cut at the 13th inch horizontally so that you get two different parts.

waist measurement 4. The parts required alone must be measured accurately to get a perfect sew. 1. they are : . back dress length The above measurements are required for a women. hip measurement 5. Based on the costume. For bra you need to take the following measurements front body length breast measurement waist measurement For blouse. sleeve length 9.LEARN STITCHING Posted by THAZNIM Labels: CHURIDAR Reactions: 8 comments Links to this post HOW TO MEASURE WOMEN'S BODY A women’s body can be measured based on their body shapes. Lets see the measurement areas of a women. shirt. front dress length 11. tops you need to take measurements like breast measurement waist measurement natural waist length half shoulder length sleeve length front dress length back dress length To sew a pant. full shoulder measurement 6. Let’s see how to find body rise to stitch a pant. low breast measurement 3. hand measurement 10. Breast measurement 2. So the measurements have to be taken exactly according to the parts . the required body parts can be measured. Now let’s see the measurements needed for particular costumes. half shoulder measurement 7. There are two types in finding the body rise . the blouse part and the pant part. the measurements required are leg length waist measurement hip measurement thigh round measurement W omen’s measurement is based on two main parts. Inch tape is the major sewing tool used to measure body. neck measurement 8. The measurements vary according to the parts of the body.

Breast measurement and hip measurements varies about 3 to 4 inch The waist measurement and the hip measurement varies about 10 inch to 12 inch. Then measure from waist to knee in the sitting posture.LEARN STITCHING Half of the hip measurement is body rise.e. they are as follows: 1. . British type Metric type British type follows the inch . Metric type follows the millimeter. Let’s see the measurement variation in a women’s body. Posted by THAZNIM 0 comments Links to this post Labels: MEASUREMENT Reactions: MEASUREMENTS W omen’s measurements varies according to the parts of the body. i. For example the breast and the waist measurements varies about 6 to 7 inches. centimeter and meter measurement. Measurements are based on major two types. 2. hip measurement = 39 inch = 39/3 = 13 inch body rise = 13 inch To stitch a drawer . hip measurement=36 inch measurement taken in the sitting posture = 10(1/2)” additional measurement= 1(1/2)” so body rise=12inch Follow the body rise measurement to stitch a comfortable pant. first the length measurement has to be taken then the person has to sit on a chair. foot measurement. Breast measurement 31 Low breast measurement 28 Waist measurement 25 Hip measurement 35 Posted by THAZNIM 0 comments Links to this post Labels: MEASUREMENT Reactions: TYPES OF MEASUREMENTS Sewing includes two types of measurements. Add 1(1/2) inch. i.e . They are inch measurement type and centimeter measurement type. These are the two types of measurements that are followed in sewing dresses.

10 mm = 1 cm 100 cm = 1m(metre) Lets now see the conversion of british style of measurement to metric measurement 1 inch = 2.LEARN STITCHING In british type of measurement 1 inch is made up of 8 parts.5 cm 1 foot = 30. These ten parts are called millimeter.4 inch 1 metre = 1.50 cm 3 foot = 91 cm Conversion of metric measurement to british measurement 1 cm = 0.The tailors use this type to measure the armhole (depth of scye). the breast or chest measurement should be taken and from it the armhole is measured for both men and women.1 foot METRIC TYPE BRITISH TYPE 36 inch 91 cm 45 inch 114 cm 54 inch 137 cm 60 inch 152 cm Posted by THAZNIM 0 comments Links to this post Labels: MEASUREMENT Reactions: ARMHOLE (DEPTH OF SCYE) To know the arm hole (Depth of scye) . CHEST MEASUREMENT ARM HOLE 24 to 30 inch = (chest/4) + 1(1/4) inch 30 to 28 inch = (chest/4) + 1(5/8)inch > 38 inch = (chest/5) . 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" 7/8" 1" 1 foot = 12 inch 3 foot = 36 inch In british style of measurement 1 centimeter represents ten parts. The depth of scye is measured through various styles .1/2 inch . Ten millimeter(mm) makes one centimeter(cm). Each part represents ( 1/8' ) of 1 inch. lets see some of them.

LEARN STITCHING Posted by THAZNIM Labels: ARM HOLE Reactions: 12 comments Links to this post Newer Posts Home Older Posts Subscribe to: Posts (Atom) .