Report 3: Textile Processing Techniques

Ref: S5471

September 1999

SATCO Report 3: Textile Processing Techniques In order to determine the true environmental impact of textile processing the main types of machinery in current use together with typical processing routes need to be described. The pollutants and waste generated by these processes together with typical levels or concentrations emitted or discharged help to provide a more detailed picture of the polluting nature of the textile industry. For convenience, the whole textile chain has been split into seven main sections. These are fibre production, fibre to fabric, preparative treatments, textile coloration, finishing processes, fabric aftercare and recycling and disposal. • Fibre production – this includes details on cotton growing, sheep rearing, sericulture and the generation of man-made fibres. • Fibre to fabric - which contains information on the types of machinery used in spinning, weaving, knitting and non-woven production. • Preparative treatments - which includes details of processes such as desizing, scouring and bleaching. • Textile coloration – contains information on the different methods used for dyeing and printing. • Finishing processes – includes information on coating and lamination, wet chemical finishing and mechanical finishing processes. • Fabric aftercare – which contains information on the different types of commercial laundry and dry cleaning machinery used. • Recycling and disposal – looks at the processes involved in textile recycling, the segregation techniques and the different end-uses. Fibre Production Cotton is cultivated as a shrubby annual in temperate climates but can be found as a perennial in tree-like plants in tropical climates. The cultivated shrub grows from about one to two metres tall over a growing period of six to seven months. Warm and humid climates with sandy soil are the most suitable. Although cottton can be grown between latitudes 45 N and 30 S, yield and fibre quality are considerably influenced by climatic conditions, and best qualities are obtained with high moisture levels resulting from rainfall or irrigation during the growing season and a dry, warm season during the picking period. Rain or strong wind may cause damage to the opened bolls. Cotton producing areas vary in climate from arid to semi-humid. Some of the biggest include parts of

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the USA, China, Russia, Brazil, Mexico, Egypt, Sudan, Turkey and India. African producers include the Ivory Coast, Nigeria, Uganda and Tanzania. Every year, new seed is planted, the crop grown to maturity, the seeds with their fibres harvested, the dead plants destroyed and the land prepared for the following season. The lint or raw cotton, is shipped to textile factories all over the world, while most of the seed is processed for its food components (soaps, margarine and animal feed cake). Only a small quantity of seed is retained for planting. Cotton is a key agricultural product in the world’s economy, and is particularly important to developing countries. Production in the Third World provides a livelihood to 125 million people. It ensures that developing countries have an important source of foreign exchange ($25 billion annually) and a major raw material to develop their own textile industries. Cotton needs a lot of water to grow, over 50cm of rain in a season. However, cotton can be grown with less rainfall by applying supplementary water from irrigation channels. Pests in the cotton can be controlled by the regular application of pesticides sprayed onto the plants. Cotton is attacked by several hundred species of insects. Limited insect control can be achieved by proper timing of planting, or by selective breeding of varieties with some resistance to insect damage. Chemical insecticides, which were first introduced in the early 1900’s, require careful and selective use because of ecological considerations but appear to be the most effective and efficient means of control. Cotton plants are also subject to diseases caused by fungi, bacteria and viruses. The treatment of seeds before planting is common, as is the practice of soil fumigation. A really good field of cotton ready for picking will yield about 1000 kg of cotton fibre per hectare. Yields vary, but the present world average of only 400 kg per hectare could be improved. Crops could be increased without using any more land in developing countries if agricultural knowledge could be applied and supplies of pesticide and fertiliser made available to the farmers there. Even in the more advanced countries, the improvements in seed varieties and farming techniques give better yields per hectare almost every year. The present world production of cotton is about 13 million metric tonnes which is grown on about 32 million hectares. On small farms cotton is hand picked. It is packed in loose bales and is marketed by farmers at local seed cotton markets. The buyer then provides the transport to national ginneries. In countries where labour costs are high and where the terrain is suitable, machine picking is used. These machines collect immature bolls and other vegetable matter, which is called trash. To minimise the trash collected, the plants are sometimes sprayed with a chemical defoliant causing the leaves to drop prior to picking.

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Sorting is the separation of the different qualities of wool from the fleece. Types are denoted by quality numbers on a subjective scale related to fineness. A sorter can generally sort up to 4500 kgs of Australian fleece in a week. can be harmful to humans and so great care must be taken when the sheep are being treated. usually waist high. crimp. length and crimp. moderately moist summers produce plants yielding fine. crossbred wool is 48’s-60’s. closely related to softness of handle. He next removes the coarsest wool. Merino wool is usually about 60’s –64’s. The most important property is usually fibre fineness. Cotton is then baled in loads of 220kg. and finally reaches the fine wool on the shoulders. Frequent moist winds during the growing season are advantageous. or cohering bunches of wool. The separation of fibres from seed is effected by means of a row of circular saws passing through a series of narrow grids. China and Russia. Australia. The saw teeth grip the fibres and draw them through the grids. silky linen. but British sheep have made contributions to the world’s flocks out of all proportion to the story the statistics alone tell. with large concentrations in New Zealand. In order to protect the sheep during its productive lifetime. There are variations between locks. Hot dry summers produce a short and harsh but strong fibre. Wool is available in a wide range of fineness. Wool obtained from different parts of the sheep varies in fibre fineness. The bale which is fabric or plastic covered is secured by strong metal bands. The basic steps in wool processing have remained unchanged for centuries.Ginning machines are designed to separate the cotton fibres from the seed. with a 2% share of the world’s wool. 3 . etc. There are about 1000 million sheep of nearly 500 different breeds scattered about the world. strong. Residual pesticides also find their way into surface and ground water supplies and are found in the waste liquors from raw wool scouring. length and colour. The seed is too wide to pass through and the fibre is thus pulled from the seeds. the shoulders yield the finest wool. and between fleece from different areas of the sheep. The sorter unrolls the fleece on the sorters board. The British share of the world’s sheep is 3%. and cuts away any wool carrying tar or paint marks. South Africa. some of which are organo-phosphorus. spinnability. Flax requires a temperate climate free from heavy rains and frosts. These pesticides. South America. The quality of wool obtained from the belly is short and burry. regular treatment with pesticides is given in the form of a sheep dip. placing it in a separate basket.

called shives. are subsequently heated by a process known as stifling to kill the chrysalis within and prevent the emergence of the moth which otherwise would make the cocoon unreelable. most of the crop grown in Russia and the United States is dew retted. and the fine pieces of the woody portion of the straw. but takes only six to eight days under controlled temperature conditions. The retted and dried fibres are removed from the woody remainder of the stem by the process of scutching. This feature is exploited in sericulture to introduce an orderly sequence into the whole cycle. Immediately prior to the process of pupation the worm first attaches silk fibre to various supports. the latter forming a sheath around the former. flax must be separated from the stalks by retting. fibroin and sericin. are beaten out. Water retting. After removal of the stalks from the retting medium. although this growing time varies with climatic and other growing conditions. defective ones are separated for subsequent treatment as silk waste. It is attacked by several fungal and viral diseases. About a tenth of the original flax stem is useful fibre. Like other bast fibres. The fully grown silkworm has two silk glands each filled with a concentrated solution of the silk proteins. in which the stems are first broken by passage through a series of fluted metal rollers. Taiwan and China. Blossoms then begin to develop and stem growth ceases. Flax is normally a three month crop. and the heavy applications of artificial fertilisers required. 4 . thorough drying is necessary to prevent further fermentation. Yields of fibre per acre vary from 200 to 360 kgs. for the moths can be put in desired places for egg laying. except those required for propagation purposes. After a slow initial growth. domestication over the ages has deprived the moth of its ability to fly. or by cultivation of resistant varieties. the plants grow as rapidly as one inch per day for 30 to 40 days. usually kept under control by chemical treatments of the seed. and then extrudes the silk thread and deposits it layer upon layer to form a cocoon around itself.Flax is difficult to grow because of the soil preparation required before sowing. Harvesting is usually carried out by pulling the plant from the ground. Most cocoons. a minute aperture in the muzzle of the worm. The two glands unite in the spinneret. which is predominantly fungal. In this method the harvested flax straw is left in the field and allowed to remain until the combined action of the moisture from dew and micro-organisms makes separation of the fibres possible. Following the stifling process the cocoons are inspected and graded. The process depends very much on the temperature and chemical nature of the water. to form a scaffolding. Pulling is considered superior to cutting since flax deteriorates at the cut. Although the lifecycle of Bombyx mori is typical of most other silkmoth species. which is essentially bacterial. is practised in areas such as the Philippines.

These are made into yarns by mixing. and the spun silk process is based on the utilisation of this material. A Bombyx silk bave is only about 15 to 25 microns thick and it is too thin and weak to be used singly. With these machines the process is considerably less labour intensive. The crumbs turn orange in colour and are then dissolved in a second caustic soda solution forming the syrupy liquid viscose. The first process is that of soaking the hanks in a warm emulsion of various oils and other softening agents in a slightly alkaline solution. Although much of the world’s silk is still reeled from hand operated basins. The crumbs are allowed to stand for a time during which ‘ageing’ occurs. cleaning and opening. The reeling process consists essentially of softening the silk gum. Firstly. During this process the oils are taken up by the silk gum. is churned with the liquid carbon disulphide to form a soluble derivative of cellulose. The technique of spun silk production is quite distinct from that of thrown silk yarns. 99% of the silk produced in Japan (the world’s largest producer and consumer) is reeled on automatic reeling machines. wool. the very long cellulose molecules are thus reduced in length to allow a satisfactory spinning solution to be prepared later. and many of the mechanisms involved in the process are closely related to machines used in the preparation and production of yarns from staple fibres such as cotton. Many silk fabrics are still produced on hand looms which can produce superior goods for which the purchaser is obviously prepared to pay the extra cost involved.Reeling consists of unwinding the fibre from several cocoons together and reeling the baves so as to form a composite thread of the required denier. the fibres are cut into short lengths and then combed into slivers. The basic method of viscose fibre production can be split into five stages. by maceration in hot water. The objective is to make the yarns more supple and pliable. Some 60% of the silk extruded by the silkworm is useless for the production of continuous filament yarns. The product ‘alkali cellulose’. drafting and spinning. 5 . Following soaking and drying the hanks are rewound on to bobbins or cones. cellulose xanthate. It is at this stage that twist is inserted to form different types of yarn. removing the loose outer layers until the free end of the bave has been located and then combining it with the baves from other cocoons. After degumming. flax and jute. Silk throwing involves the preparation of the raw silk into a form suitable for knitting and weaving. sheets of cellulose in the f rm of purified wood pulp are steeped in o caustic soda solution and then pressed to remove the excess and ground into crumbs.

terephthalic acid. The nylon developed at IG Farbenindustrie is made by thermal polymerisation of caprolactam in an inert atmosphere at temperatures up to 270 C. Either the acid or its ester. is cut into chips ready for further processing. The bulk polyester is formed into filaments or fibre by first drying and then melting the chips. sulphuric acid and salts. This is oxidised in air with a catalyst to form ethylene oxide. Either continuously or in batches. followed 6 . hence the name nylon 6. which is distilled from petroleum and then highly purified. The emerging filaments are coagulated and chemically changed back to cellulose. are treated with further chemicals and are finally washed. which is then hydrated to produce ethylene glycol. dimethyl terephthalate. each component having six carbon atoms. The chemical and physical character of the solution changes slowly with time until an optimum spinning condition is reached. and collected. A concentrated solution of this salt is first heated under pressure in an inert atmosphere to about 270 C.6.The viscose is allowed to stand for a controlled time to ‘ripen’. In its final form the fibre may be either continuous filament or cut staple. but a new commercial process had to be developed for the other component. The first part of the process consists of mixing the two components in exact proportions in methanolic solution from which the nylon salt settles out. is added to the ethylene glycol and then polymerised in a vacuum at a temperature of about 270 C. The fine filaments solidify quickly and are wound up either at a speed of about 1000 m/min to produce undrawn yarn. Meanwhile it is subjected to vacuum to remove gas bubbles and filtered. the fibres are washed free of coagulating bath chemicals. after cooling. and then pumping the molten polymer through many holes in a spinneret. steam is then bled off and the residue is heated further under vacuum to complete the polymerisation. The nylon developed at Du Pont is formed by thermal polycondensation of hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid. and dried. This is made from paraxylene. or at about 3500 m/min to produce a partially orientated yarn. The viscose is extruded at a measured rate through the holes of spinnerets that are immersed in a bath containing water. This process was already well established for the production of antifreeze and explosives. The polymer is extruded from the polymerisation vessel in the form of a ribbon which. They are drawn from the bath at a controlled rate that involves some stretch. The raw material for the production of polyester is oil. In the first step of production the oil is cracked to give ethylene gas. lightly oiled.

Nylons are thermoplastic. carding. dimethyl sulphoxide. nylon 6 at 210 C and nylon 6. opening. and oxygen. As the repeating unit in the polymer contains 6 carbon atoms it is called nylon 6. This is usually produced by the so called Sohio process. they progressively soften on heating and eventually melt. Principal pollutants: Emissions from oil processing. zinc chloride (60% in water). Selection of 7 . or by dehydration of ethylene cyanohydrin. dimethylacetamide. The acrylonitrile monomer is then combined with other monomers to produce co-polymers or polymerised alone to form homopolymer acrylic. Acrylonitrile is an addition polymer. ammonia. This fact delayed development of the fibre while a suitable solvent was found. Before 1960.e. and so must be solvent spun. react at high temperature in the presence of catalysts such as bismuth phosphomolybdate. Acrylic fibres are either wet or dry spun. for example. This enables them to be extruded in their molten state through small holes in a plate called a spinneret to form very fine jets of molten polymer that quickly solidify to continuous filaments as they are transported down a cooling chimney to the wind-up positions. emissions from the transportation (fuel usage) of fibre. spinning and winding). The basic material for acrylic fibre production is acrylonitrile. carbon disulphide from viscose production. The trash is removed and a lap or sheet of fibre is produced. flax and wool production. fertilisers in cotton and flax growing. Typical solvents include dimethylformamide. and nitric acid (70% in water). pesticides in cotton. The fibre contained in cotton bales. combing/drawing. In the Sohio process. The discovery and development of the ammoxidation of polypropylene (Sohio process). acrylonitrile was commercially produced by adding hydrogen cyanide to acetylene.6 at 250 C.by the extraction with water of about 10% residual monomer before the polymer can be used. propylene. methane (from sheep rearing). sodium thiocyanate (50% in water). ethylene carbonate. Fibre to Fabric Spinning (includes. roving. the final polymer must contain at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units. the monomers adding or joining end-to-end without liberating any by-product. is first opened and cleaned. appreciably reduced production costs because of the lower cost of raw materials and the single step nature of the process. In order to qualify for the description acrylic. it does n melt sharply to give a ot fluid melt suitable for melt spinning. Although acrylic polymer is thermoplastic. i.

The sliver is then delivered into a tall can. Material losses can be 5% or more. is used for spinning all types of staple fibre. depending on the end use of the yarn). In ring spinning a fine sliver of fibres is fed downwards from a roving bobbin through a drafting zone. Total losses from fibre to yarn can be large. At the speedframe a single drawframe sliver is drafted 5 to 10 times and a slight twist added. A lap forming machine is used to combine a number of slivers into a wide ribbon of fibre which is then presented to the comber. This process produces about another 4% to % in waste. In some modern systems. For example 100 kgs of 50/50 polyester cotton yarn can require 56 kgs of polyester and up to 70 kgs of cotton. which are covered with fine wire points. in one form of another. depending on the grade of cotton. It is at this stage that man-made fibres are blended into the final roving. wool.layers of cotton from different bales allows fibre blending to take place at this early stage. which drafts out the strand of fibres to the correct thickness. This is wound onto a roving bobbin. The fibres collected at the end of the card in the form of a filmy web. Twist is then inserted by the combined action of the spindle and the traveller. removes short fibres and any remaining trash or nep. the card sliver is drafted down to an intermediate roving. cotton and synthetics. Combing. In drawing. tufts are fed through tubes directly to the card. Ring Spinning 8 . the next process (although optional. The total material loss up to this stage can be as much as 15%. removing more of the trash and some lint. are condensed into a card sliver of about 25mm diameter. The yarn is then wound onto a second package called a ring bobbin. The carding action takes place between the surfaces of a large cylinder and a system of overhead revolving flats. Carding converts the lap to a parallel sliver. The ringframe. The roving is then spun into yarn.

washed. blending and drawing for worsteds. not as with the ringframe by roving. Open-end spinning produces a different type of yarn to ringframe spinning.Another more recent method of yarn formation is called rotor spinning. only some of which are beneficial. The fibre layer is stripped off the rotor groove and the resultant yarn wound onto a package. gilling. Allowing for higher twisting speeds with a relatively low power cost. bulkier. This is a form of open-end spinning where twist is introduced into the yarn without the need for package rotation. that open-end spinning will not replace ringspun yarn as originally thought. The fibres are sucked down a delivery tube and deposited in the groove of the rotor as a continuous ring of fibre. It is fed by sliver. thereby improving the yarn quality. Carding and condensing for woollens and carding. lower in strength. The twist in the yarn being determined by the ratio of the rotational speed of the rotor and the linear speed of the yarn. Rotor Spinning The production of worsted or woollen y arn differs from cotton in that the raw loose fibre is first scoured. and so eliminates the speedframe from the process line. The use of this system has two basic advantages. In rotor spinning a continuous supply of fibres is delivered from delivery rollers off a drafting system or from an opening unit. but will be a complimentary product. Open-end yarns tend to be more uniform. more extensible. dried and blended. The result is what is called a 9 . combing (Noble or French). gilling again. It is likely then with all of these differences. more abrasion resistant and more absorbent. It can also be modified to remove any remaining trash.

84 dB(A). The top is then drawn and spun into yarn. ring spinning rooms. Worsted yarns however.5 mg/m³. Typically about 40 to 60% of the original raw wool is made up of wool grease. At this stage. in twisting and texturing rooms. beaming. but typically these are either polyvinyl alcohol. air ventilation rates and the age/ type of machine used. which is removed on scouring and drying. Principal pollutants: noise and dust. Typical noise levels found near carding machines. 93 dB(A). With the higher levels found around opening and carding machines. looking up the thread. cotton and some man-made warp yarns are sized to improve their strength and to minimise breakages. automatic cone winding rooms. polyacrylic acid. Twist is inserted into the yarn at the spinning stage. combing machines. it is called S-twist. There are also a range of what are called ‘fancy yarns’ which are obtained by variations in how yarns are twisted together. loop and gimp yarns. Before weaving can commence the warp yarns must be assembled onto a beam. A variety of substances can be used as size. 93 dB(A). Woollen yarns have a fuzzy appearance whilst worsted yarns are smooth.white wool top. Woollen yarns are made up of fairly short fibres. When folded yarns are twisted together the result is a cabled yarn. Typical total dust levels found around these processes (opening to spinning) vary from 0. open end spinning. warp sizing and fabric/carpet weaving). When yarn is made of one strand of twisted fibres it is known as a singles yarn. These include slub. 92 dB(A). If to the right it is Ztwist. loosely spun with little twist. Weaving ( includes. If the direction of the twist is to the left. 101 dB(A). excess water and dirt. Levels depend on the type of yarn processed.1 to 2. Oil is then added prior to carding to reduce later breakages. 10 . The size is squeezed into the threads as they pass between rollers and drying is achieved by large steam heated cylinders. 90 dB(A). A further 1 to 4% waste consists of burr which is removed at the carding stage (alternatively it can be removed by carbonising which is an acid treatment process). carboxymethyl cellulose or starch. suint (water soluble wool wax). are made up of longer fibres with a higher twist. and when two or three singles are twisted together it is a twofold or threefold yarn.

or by punching the pile loops into an already prepared woven backing. sateen weave. which is predominantly weft-faced with a smooth surface. A secondary backing with latex foam may also be applied on the cheaper tufted carpets. twill weave. Although. Movement of the harness is controlled by perforated cards threaded together into an endless loop. air jet or water jet. Instead of the usual arrangement of healds the jacquard is equipped with a series of cords and attachments called a harness. which produces diagonal lines in the fabric. Carpet can be constructed by weaving the pile and backing simultaneously. in which the punched holes correspond to the pattern. gripper shuttles. rapier. conventional shuttle. A number of different types of loom are available for this process. The latter is called a tufted carpet and these tend to be constructed using a nylon pile and jute or polypropylene backing.Warp Sizing The yarn is now ready to be woven into fabric. and figured patterns made on a Jacquard loom. Typical weave structures are calico or plain weave. A carpet is essentially a heavy pile fabric with vertical tufts or loops held in place with a backing material. 11 . multi-phase. conventional shuttle looms have now been replaced to a great extent by shuttleless rapier looms. This enables each warp thread in each repeat of the pattern to be lifted independently. The Jacquard loom is different in that it is used for weaving elaborate fabrics such as curtains and upholstery.

100 dB(A). disposed around the circumference of the machine. warping and knitting). Levels depend on the type of fabric processed. Raschel or tricot warp-knitting machines are used for knitting coarse and fine gauge fabrics. furnishings and industrial purposes. The yarn is then wound onto cones. 95 dB(A). Yarns are fed in from numerous bobbins in creels at each side of the machine and delivered to the needles at various feeder points around the circumference. net and elasticated net (which used as a backing or lining material for stretch garments). Warp knitting is also used in the production of lace. air ventilation rates and the type of loom used. rapier looms 92 dB(A). Weft knitting produces a more extensible fabric and tends to be used for producing items such as stockings. uses high velocity air instead of heat. sheets and shirts. elastic property suitable for knitted fabrics. not unlike the ones used for fabric patterning. tights and socks. dust and high effluent COD from residual sizing liquor. an alternative process. There are many types of circular knitting machines. Cloth produced by this method is tubular and is collected on a cloth roller at the base of the machine. Principal pollutants: noise. and is usually employed for making heavier fabrics suitable for garment blanks for pullovers and cardigans. Woven carpets are generally made of a wool/nylon blend of fibres with a jute backing. Warp knitting is when successive loops of yarn run along the length of the fabric. Typical noise levels found in shuttle loom weaving rooms. Another type of knitting machine is the flat V-bed type which uses a single yarn supply which moves backwards and forwards on a carriage. Knitted fabrics are made by interlacing loops of yarn. Knitting (includes. whilst fine gauge tricot is used for lingerie. 12 . some controlled by a jacquard system. Typical total dust levels found in weaving sheds vary from 0. A single jersey type utilises one set of needles for knitting.The more expensive woven carpets such as Wilton and Axminster are woven on large carpet looms. Weft knitting is when successive loops of a single yarn form a row running across the width of the fabric. Coarse gauge raschel is used for outerwear. Fabric produced by this machine is flat. Most Wilton type carpets are woven face to face and then split down the middle to form two carpet pieces. winding. On relaxing the yarn has a bulky. Knitting machines are either circular or flat bed. Man-made yarn is textured by twisting the yarn and heat setting it into place before cooling and untwisting. rather than tubular.1 to 6. Air texturing. texturing. gripper shuttle loom weaving rooms.0 mg/m³.

Spun lacing is similar to needle punching but uses a high velocity jet of air instead of a needle. producing a more traditionally textile-like non-woven fabric. adhesive is impregnated or sprayed onto the fleece. Non-wovens (includes. In adhesive bonding. spun bonding. Typical noise levels found in a warp knitting room (compound needles) 92 dB(A). Needlepunching. It is then dried in an oven. needlepunching.2 mg/m³.2 to 1. a process with limited success. The action of the needles pushes some of the fibres down through the fleece effectively holding it together. adhesive bonding.Circular Weft Knitting Machine Principal pollutants: noise and dust. Principal pollutants: Noise (to a lesser degree than spinning. is very similar to the paper making process. weaving and knitting) 13 . produces an interlocking of the fibres in a fleece. The web is then heated or chemically bound. Typical total dust levels found in knitting rooms vary from 0. Spunbonded materials are based on a continuous filament being randomly deposited onto a porous belt with suction. the first of six methods used to form a non-woven. The fleece is usually derived from a carding machine. Stitch bonding is a process by which the fleece is held together by a knitted structure based on interlooping tufts of fibre from the fleece. whilst wet laid. stitch bonding. spun laced and wet laid).

Scouring (including. This is achieved by either an enzyme treatment or by dilute acid and a simple washing off procedure. whilst in the workroom levels vary from 2 to 30 mg/m³. Preparative Treatments Singeing Cotton is prepared for dyeing by removing the surface fibres. washing and drying is usually done in a single continuous operation prior to blending. The equipment used for this process is very simple and has changed little in design over the years. or detergent scour at low temperature. whilst wool goods require a milder soap and soda. levels are about 85 to 86 dB(A). which effectively compacts the textile structure producing a change in handle from a slight to a dense matting or felting. is done at either the hank. where the large quantity of impurities present means that it is always necessary to scour the fibre in its raw state. This is done by singeing the surface of the fabric with a gas flame. yarn or fabric stage. This is not the case for wool. If starch is the size on the fabric then it can contribute up to 50% of the total BOD loading from the processing of a typical woven fabric. Water usage for this process is of the order of litres per kg of textile. The process was originally undertaken on old open topped wooden milling machines. loose stock. Typically levels of dust in the process emissions from singeing are of the order of 10 to 40 mg/m³. Both flat and tubular knitted fabrics as well as woven fabrics can be singed. whilst in needle punching. yarn. Desizing units are sometimes used in conjunction with the singeing process. The chemical oxygen demand (COD) of a desizing effluent varies between mg/l and mg/l. Other sizes such as PVA are recoverable and so have less of an impact on effluent BOD.Typical noise levels in adhesive bonding are 83 dB(A). some of which are still in use because of their 14 . prior to dyeing. Cotton and flax scouring is usually done at high temperature using a caustic liquor. The process is undertaken at low temperature using soap and soda or detergent. Principal pollutants: dust and fume. The milling of woollen fabrics is a process. fabric scouring and milling) Scouring of cotton or man-made fibres to remove oils or lubricants. Desizing The size added to the yarn prior to weaving must now be removed. Raw wool scouring. Principal pollutants: High BOD/COD in effluent.

However. The introduction of bans on the use of PCP and certain pesticides has led to a significant improvement. but they can be used for a wider range of processing.gentleness in processing and hence better fabric finish that they can provide. More modern milling machines resemble winches in shape and basic design. and 10 to 30 litres per kg of scoured cotton. Severe limitations are placed on the concentration of PCP and pesticides in textile effluent. Pentachlorophenol residues from cotton scouring and pesticide residues from wool scouring . Typical values are 10 to 20 litres of water per kg of scoured wool. The cost of treating effluent containing these substances is usually high. although it may also be required on wool and acrylic where a white yarn is 15 . they may not be as gentle as the old machines. with a COD of between 5000 and 35000 mg/l and a suspended solids content of anything up to 20000 mg/l. Bleaching This process is used predominantly on cotton or cotton blend fabrics or yarn. Wool scouring effluent has a pH of between 8-10. Traditional Raw Wool Scouring Principal pollutants: High effluent BOD (biochemical oxygen demand)/COD and solids. Cotton scouring effluent and wool milling effluent are considerably less polluting with respective COD’s of about 200 mg/l and 1000 mg/l and suspended solids contents of 100 mg/l and 150 mg/l. the problem still exists. Water usage for these processes varies considerably.

at least for cotton goods. Mercerising This is the treatment of cotton or linen yarn or fabric with concentrated caustic alkali. Dyeing can be carried out at almost every stage of manufacture. Washing ranges associated w continuous preparation invariably have countercurrent ith flow. Principal pollutants: Alkaline effluent from washing and rinsing operations. bedding and dress materials. scouring and bleaching. Water usage for this process is about 20 litres per kg of cloth. are consented for discharge in some European countries. Mercerisers are either chain or chainless and consist of three sections. stabilisation and washing off. Absorbable organo-halogens (AOX) which are produced by hypochlorite bleaching. Typically the pH of this effluent is about 10 to 12. Dyestuffs can be applied by many different techniques to give shades which are fast to washing and light. Sweden and Germany. increasing their strength and dye affinity and altering the lustre and handle of the material. Residual peroxide is not a problem. to obtain coloured yarns with which the weaver can produce a wide range of coloured striped or check designs for such fabrics as shirtings. impregnation. or more commonly just scouring and bleaching can also be achieved in a single continuous process. amongst other processes. Hypochlorite bleaching can cause environmental problems due to the presence of chlorine breakdown products. but it still is the preferred method when bleaching linen goods due to the better level of whiteness that can be achieved. It has the effect of swelling the fibres. The whiteness of the goods (cotton or linen) is improved by treating with hypochlorite or peroxide. The fabric. 16 . Principal pollutants: Effluent pH. Desizing. Nowadays. as well as alkalis or acids. but other oxidising agents may reduce the effectiveness of some at effluent treatment plants.needed. Most mercerisation units have their own caustic recovery systems to help minimise waste. Notably. Yarn dyeing is quite common. Effluent f rom mercerising operations consists mainly of mildy caustic rinsewater. lidded tanks and heat recovery systems to help minimise water and energy usage. Effluent from bleaching operations contain the residues of oxidising agents. it is predominantly the latter that is used. yarn or loose stock is now ready to receive colour. residual chlorinated organics (AOX) and chemical oxygen demand (COD).

The process chosen depends on the nature of the textile. The exhausted liquor is dropped hot directly to drain. at pressure or in open vessels. The jig is the oldest and simplest type of machine for dyeing woven fabric. The continuous dyeing of yarns and tow is much less common.Textile Coloration Dyeing (includes: atmospheric. These machines tend to take up a lot of floorspace and are nowadays only used for dyeing bulky wool or acrylic yarns. beam or jet type. Liquor ratios vary from 3:1 to 10:1 depending on the nature of the dye and package . pressure and pad dyeing systems) There are a wide range of machines and processes available for dyeing fibre. Heat is applied via a steam coil and the dye liquor is forced through the package in a two-way flow pattern until the correct shade has been achieved. Hanks of yarn are threaded onto horizontal poles and the poles are lowered into the dyebath. yarns. with the cheeses or cones of yarn being mounted onto vertical hollow spindles. It is suitable for fabrics which cannot be creased during processing. tow. Fabric dyeing in batches is done on one of four basic types of machine. The fabric is wound on to a roll. This is confirmed by testing a package held in a sample pot on the side of the main vessel. This then passes through the dye liquor and onto a second roll. Dyeing can be done continuously or batchwise. Machines used for dyeing loose stock are similar to those used for dyeing yarn except that the textile is placed in a basket or perforated cage instead of being placed on a spindle.The liquor is then cooled using a heat exchanger before it is dropped to drain. Yarn dyeing is done at pressure on a package dyeing machine. The jig. Heating is through steam coils although direct steam injection is usually also provided for rapid heating up of the dye bath. These machines are very versatile and can also be used for the batchwise preparation of fabric (scouring and bleaching) prior to dyeing. Machines are used for dyeing polyester and acrylic tow where the tow is padded through dye liquor and then through a tunnel for fixation and washing. The spindles are lowered into the cylindrical vessel and the lid bolted down. fabric and garments. winch. An alternative way of dyeing heavier yarns is the hank dyeing machine. staple. 17 . The process is repeated back and forth until the desired shade is achieved. the type of dyestuff and the end use.

over reels and rollers and down into a dyebath. The liquor is heated using steam coils and circulated through the fabric. Fabric is circulated in a rope form with a vigorous circulation of liquor. but these have been largely replaced with more versatile modern steel vessels. On completion of the dye cycle the liquor is cooled using an integrated water cooling system. Variations on this type of machine include fully flooded and Softflow machines useful for delicate and sensitive fabrics. for dyeing certain types of fabric at high temperature and pressure. The final class of machine used for batchwise dyeing of fabric is the jet or jet type machine. These lightweight. woollens and some knitted and man-made materials. This is placed in a horizontally orientated dyeing vessel and the door bolted shut. Pressure beams consist of a roll of fabric wound around a perforated beam. The fabric circulates. The warmed cooling water can then be stored at temperatures of about 40 to 50°C. at temperatures of between 120 to 130°C . It is ideal for loosely woven cottons. There is a requirement however. Old winch dyebaths were constructed using wood.Jig Dyeing Machine Winches are used for fabrics that can withstand creasing when in rope form. As with the pressure beams these high temperature jets are 18 . in a continuous rope of between 50 to 100 metres. damage and poor dye uptake on jigs and winches. as an alternative to passing it through a cooling tower. Jigs and winches are atmospheric machines. The answer is to dye using a pressure beam or jet type machine. Dyeing temperatures are typically 120 to 130°C. delicate and knitted fabrics suffer creasing. and used for subsequent dyeings.

of cotton. The printed fabric is then dried in an oven. Principal pollutants: residual colour in effluent. catalysts. or it can be done using a steamer (saturated steam) as with the v sulphur and direct dyeing at. rotary. which can be as low as 0. alkalis. crease resisting agents. The total effluent from these processes will have a COD of about 1000 to 1500 mg/l. In flat screen printing the colour passes through a screen onto the cloth. a BOD of 300 to 500 mg/l. a pH of 6 to 8. This ratio is highly dependent on the type of dye machine. Typical colour absorbances of reactive dye effluent over the visible range from 400nm to 700nm can be as high as 1 to 1. Each colour used in the design requires a separate screen. but also all the preparative. Probably 20 to 30 chemicals. The pollutant load of discharged dye liquor is generally low. contained in 10 to 15 individual treatment baths/systems. The fabric is fed through a pad bath then nipped through rollers to remove excess liquor. colour is applied to a fabric by passing it under a series of rollers of screens where a part of the pattern is exposed. soaping agents and softeners. a temperature of 35 to 45°C and will probably also contain traces of heavy metals and PCP. although reactive dyes still have relatively poor exhaustion rates. 19 . This is considerably higher than consent levels. the fabric to be dyed and the class of dyestuff used to match the customer’s requirements. Where these dyes are used coloured effluent is still a problem.5AU (using a 10mm cell). the pattern being produced by masking out parts of the screen. exhausting agents. In a typical process involving the pre-treatment. from 4 to 50 litres of water is used to dye each kg of textile. stabilisers. rinsing and finishing stages involved in the application of colour. flatscreen and transfer printing) In rotary and flatscreen printing. Typically. acids. allowing the colour through to the fabric on the stroke of a squeegee. These include sequestrants. dyeing and rinsing of a cotton fabric a whole host of chemicals will be used. dyes. Printing (includes. mechanised flat bed machines give precise prints and are suitable for wide fabrics or large pattern repeats.01 to 0. It is then dried and the dye fixed. Fixation can be done at high temperature as with the Thermosol process for dyeing fabrics containing polyester. The continuous dyeing of fabric is preferred where large quantities of woven fabric have to be dyed one colour. Well designed.06 AU for discharge to river. levelling agents. bleaching agents. suspended solids of 200 to 400 mg/l. Water usage in dyeing is relatively high since it not only includes the dye liquor.fitted with cooling systems with the potential for reuse of the warmed water on the next dyeing cycle. It is therefore a more common process in American mills where orders tend to be much larger.

formaldehyde and ammonia in fumes from the drying ovens. By varying the depth of the engraving on the roller the shade depth can be altered. each colour in the pattern requires a separate roller. This is why large patterns are avoided in roller printing. Again. does not tend to be as good as that achieved with flat screen or rotary printing. or rotary screen printing the required design is cut into the surface of copper rollers. If a large pattern is used then the roller must have a bigger circumference. However there is still a lot of water consumed by this process. is heated for 30 seconds at temperatures of up to 200°C. it takes 100 20 . Low level VOC’s. Wherever possible water is recycled. For example. A characteristic of engraved roller printing is the sharpness of line and the very fine detail which can be obtained. The advantage of this type of printing is that no other chemicals are used and no other processes are required to finish the cloth. Rotary Screen Printing Transfer printing differs from the other two methods in that the printed pattern is transferred from printed transfer paper onto the fabric by passing both over a heated roller. This is achieved using water spray guns and tub cleaning machines. The quality of print however.For roller. This helps to minimise energy and water usage. The paper. Principal pollutants: colour in effluent from washing down. screens and print paste containers that have been used must be cleaned out thoroughly ready for the next print run. The dyestuff transfers to the textile by sublimation. squeegees. After each printing run the rollers. which is printed with volatile dyes.

with increased environmental legislation. resin finishing. usually with heat recovery. Principal pollutants: Fume. The health implications of inhaling significant levels of this chemical are severe.litres of water just to clean one screen or squeegee. enzyme treatment. This can be done using carbon absorption or thermal oxidation/incineration. Where alternatives are not available then recovery and abatement systems have had to be installed. and on average about 250 litres of water to process one kg of printed textile (transfer printing excluded). in the past. Laminating. Finishing Processes Coating and Laminating Coating processes were. the fabric speed and the moisture retention after mangling determines the level of pick-up on the fabric. by padding techniques or by spraying. The concentration of the liquor. and isocyanates. in coating and lamination processing. companies have gone over to water based. which in the UK varies between 50mg/m³ and 150mg/m³ (as carbon). or by flame lamination where the component textiles are brought together and passed rapidly over a flame. volatile organic compounds (VOC’s). or low solvent formulations. such as solvent replacement or if this is not possible then some form of abatement is required. although in much lower volumes. large consumers of solvents. 21 . Solvent based coating formulations produced significant VOC (volatile organic compound) emissions. Lamination can be achieved by either the use of solvent based formulations or hot-melt cured polyurethanes followed by low temperature curing through an oven. or the formation of a layered textile. The textile is then air or oven dried and cured at a controlled rate. Where emissions exceed consent. steam treatment) A variety of finishes such as Proban and resin finishes can be applied by padding liquor onto the fabric prior to stenter drying/baking. Wet Chemical Finishing (includes. Coatings are applied using a doctor blade on a roller. A wide range of solvent types are still used. The formulations used in lamination and some coating processes commonly include isocyanate. More recently. then process modification. is a common process used in the production of such items as internal trim panels for the automobile industry. and so strict limits are set on both workroom exposure and process emission concentrations to atmosphere. FR treatment. This effectively seals the laminate.

and is achieved by controlled dampening and drying of the relaxed fabric to remove any tensions and distortions which have appeared as a result of earlier processing. lustre or pattern on the fabric.5 mg/m³ in the workroom . It is more effective than mangling but costs almost twice as much in 22 .2 to 0. The first stage is mechanical dewatering using centrifuges. schreinering and sanforising) Mechanical finishing involves the modification of the fabric by means of mechanical action. This has the effect of smoothing and flattening the surface. drying. Fabric Finishing (includes. conferring a glaze. textiles require drying. and have increased its suitability for apparel of all types. raising. whilst near shearing machines they reach about half of this level. Formaldehyde concentrations during resin curing processes are typically 5 to 15 mg/ m³ in the process emissions from the stenter and 0. Principal pollutants: Dust from raising and shearing. Mechanical Finishing (includes. Mangling is the most cost effective way of removing water mechanically but water retention levels are still quite high. The same finish also prevents shrinkage during washing. Principal pollutants: Formaldehyde and ammonia emissions from curing processes. washing or colouration. Raising is achieved by passing a fabric over a series of wire rollers. This is usually carried out in two stages. shearing. Dust levels found near raising machines are usually in the range from 1 to 3 mg/m³. pulling to width and heat setting) After preparation. Easy-care finishing reduces the tendency of the fabric to crease in wear and makes it much easier to iron after laundering. Sanforising is the shrinkage of cotton fabric. Centrifuging can only be used for relatively small batches of fabric. Shearing is almost the opposite. calendaring. A calendar or schreiner consists of two heated rollers through which the fabric is passed. mangles and vacuum slots. where protruding fibres are removed from the surface of a fabric by cropping the surface. It is essential therefore that some form of abatement.The application of an easy-care finish is one such process. water extraction. Ammonia concentrations during ammonia curing of cotton fabrics can result in process emissions of the order of 4000 mg/m³. This has the effect of pulling the surface fibres to give a brushed or raised effect. is fitted to this process so that emissions can comply with legal requirements. such as a wet scrubber. These types of finish have greatly reduced the maintenance which cotton in everyday use requires.

It is sometimes the case that they are bought for the chemical savings alone. The latest RF drying systems use a combined vacuum arrangement and RF drying capability. For this reason it tends to be used for intermediate drying. Drying cylinders are basically a series of steam heated drums over which the fabric passes. It is a method more commonly associated with the woollen industry. as it produces a rapid and uniform drying of the textile goods. even though it is a relatively expensive process. held in place by either clips or pins. before being exhausted to atmosphere. radio-frequency (RF) drying has become widely used. 23 . Improved drying rates alone may not be sufficient to justify the expense. It has the drawback of pulling the fabric and effectively reducing its width. More recently. enabling drying to be achieved at much lower temperatures. A large batch drying oven which when full takes up to 24 hours to dry the textile load. An alternative use of vacuum slots is the recovery of chemicals from pad finishing operations. The stenter is a gas fired oven. The second stage involves heating the textile and removing the remaining water by evaporation. This helps to save energy and improve product quality. This is done using cylinder dryers. Diagram of Stenter Fabric drying is usually carried out on either drying cylinders (intermediate drying) or on stenters (final drying). with the fabric passing through on a chain drive. infra-red or RF dryers. Air is circulated above and below the fabric.terms of the energy required per kg of water removed. Suction or vacuum slots are the most effective way of mechanical dewatering (except for woollen fabrics where water removal under suction is poor) but they are the most expensive. The traditional way of drying yarn or loose stock textiles was by a warm air drying oven. batch drying ovens. stenters.

In the carpet industry there are a number of different types of drying/curing machine used. It is used as either a stand alone piece of equipment. at least in the garment or domestic textile sectors. and wide 4 and 5-metre latexing or backing machines used to apply and dry/cure the latex backing on to carpets. Where required the final product may be pressed or ironed or passed through a garment finishing oven before being packaged for final delivery. The sections are then sewn up on industrial sewing machines. whilst in the workroom levels may reach 10 to 20 mg/m³. Provided the unit is cleaned on a regular basis then removal efficiencies can be as high as 85%. is the cutting up and sewing of the fabric. wool drying ranges for drying wool hanks prior to weaving. or as a pre-dryer to increase drying rates and hence fabric speed through a stenter. It is a very versatile piece of equipment. Cutting up is achieved by placing layers of the same fabric on a long table. More simple heat recovery and filtration systems are also available. and with integrated heat recovery and environmental abatement systems. Infra-red drying is used for both curing and drying. and then automatically cutting through all the layers using a computer controlled system capable of organising the patterns so that there is minimal fabric loss. Modern stenters are designed with improved air circulation. these tend to be cheaper but they require more maintenance than those based on electrostatic precipitators. 24 . chemical finishing and heat setting and curing. Stenter manufacturers now make abatement systems that can be bought with a new machine or retro-fitted to an old one. Garment or Product Making-up The final production process. Principal pollutants: Dust and noise from cutting up and sewing operations and residual formaldehyde from garment finishing ovens. the stenter is used for pulling fabric to width. Principal pollutants: fabrics/yarns. these systems usually comprise of a heat recovery section followed by an electrostatic precipitator. Low level VOC emissions are produced by this process.As well as for drying processes. Wool wash dryers at the end of scouring machines for drying the loose stock wool. which helps to improve drying performance. Oily fume during setting of man-made Typically the setting of a man-made fabric on a stenter produces oil mist/fume emissions in the exhaust ducts at concentrations ranging from 20 to 200 mg/m³.

Dust is also produced around a sewing machine by the action of the needle on the fabric. where resin treated cotton or polyester/cotton fabrics are being used. Certain dyestuffs are known to trigger dermatitis. Inspection and Quality Control Inspection and quality control is probably the only relatively clean stage. whilst formaldehyde is a well known irritant. in terms of environmental pollution. of the whole textile chain.The noise from sewing machines can be quite high. As is usually the case. especially when there are forty or fifty machines all operating in close proximity. Formaldehyde can also be a problem in some cutting and sewing rooms. must not contain any banned chemicals and must not affect the wearer or user in any way that may be detrimental to health. especially around garment finishing ovens. More typically levels are in the region of 1 .3 mg/m³. The garment or item produced must wear well. but again levels have been recorded as high as 5 – 10 mg/m³. and to improve the quality of the product. It plays an important role however. It is therefore important to keep monitoring the processes in the textile chain and to test samples periodically to ensure that they comply with any quality or environmental standards. Levels have been recorded in the range from 80 to 85 dB(A). It of course depends on the nature of the textile. in terms of helping to reduce waste (seconds are sold on at much lower cost and so need to be eliminated) both of the product and of the raw materials. 25 .

tunnel washing. and a collection of smaller presses and ironing tables. Fabric Aftercare Fabric Care (includes. tunnel finishing. dry cleaning and calendaring) The typical laundry usually consists of a number of washer extractors. which are card controlled industrial batch washing machines . a tunnel washer. a couple of calendars. a number of tumble dryers. which is a counterflow continuous washer based on the principal of the Archimedian screw .Principal pollutants: none. tumble drying. which are large presses . 26 . with programmable drying cycles for different catagories of textile . Laundries that process a lot of garments may also have a tunnel dryer. a long steam heated drying tunnel through which garments pass suspended on hangers. washer extractors. There are also specialised machines for cleaning such items as roller towels and hire mats used by the fabric care rental sector.

Residual VOC’s around dry cleaning machines. Principal pollutants: High COD. Bans on the use of certain halogenated solvents have led to more research into the use of alternatives. Fume around garment drying tunnels. poor detergent BOD and high solids content in effluent. due to problems with shrinkage and distortion at the seams. usually perchloroethylene.Design of Typical 13-Stage Batch Continuous Tunnel Washer Dry cleaning machines use recoverable solvent. cleaned and reused.to clean woollen garments and the more delicate fabrics that cannot be cleaned in a normal washing machine. solvent used in this process is. Apart from residual losses from machine venting. 27 . such as mixtures of hydrocarbons or even aqueous based formulations based on limonene.

The shoddy industry was centred on the towns of Batley. Dewsbury and Ossett in West Yorkshire. and concentrated on the recovery of wool from rags. Re-processing became more complex especially with the increased use of multi-component blends. on a larger scale. Picture of used textile collection (late 19th Century) 28 . However. Morley. Recovered material from worsted production and other materials of lower value were used as a source of fibre for lower quality cloths. The importance of the industry can be gauged by the fact that even in 1860 the town of Batley was producing over 7000 tonnes of shoddy. the activity of taking old clothes and grinding them down into a fibrous state that could be re-spun into yarn. The fibres were then ready for reprocessing. The rags were collected by horse and cart or by packhorse and deposited in a yard. and machinery was therefore developed alongside this need to regenerate the used fibre. At the time there were 80 firms employing a total of 550 people sorting the rags.Textile Re-processing Historically. The industry continued in this traditional way until the larger scale introduction of synthetic fibres after the Second World War. The clothiers would buy rags and convert them into a state where they could be turned back into yarn and eventually cloth. as such. He was the first to organise. The organised recovery of textiles can be traced back as far as the old clothiers. in 1813. many of whom were farmers involved in all stages of textile production. These were then sold to shoddy manufacturers of which there were about 130 in the West Riding. Benjamin Law invented shoddy and mungo. the practice of recovering this used material is probably as old as the art of spinning and weaving itself. At this stage the industry was still a cottage industry with people working where they lived. During the 1960’s and 70’s the house to house collection of worn garments gradually disappeared and the onus was put on the householder to take these items to a charity shop or more recently to the local recycling points/clothing banks. the reclamation and fibre re-cycling industry became an integral part of the UK woollen industry. They were then sorted and pulled.

There were lots of greys. and use.The shades of recovered wool produced by the shoddy trade. even so. blues. As more and more fibre blends and cotton appeared. and the source of the garments. Fibrous/Fabric Re-useable Material Typical Material Losses % Prep’n/Blending 2 . there was a tendency for the English rag trade to move towards garment sorting and the selling of second hand clothing to the third world. to be dull. tended because of the nature of the process.10 Raw Fibre and/or Loose Stock Prep’n Spinning Reuse: Secondary Fibres Synthetics Natural fibres Texturing Weaving Knitting 1 -7 1 . there are still a lot of recoverable textiles produced. and competition from the Italian recycling industry became stiffer.20 0 -2 3 -8 2 -6 Fabric Production or Assembly Dyeing and Finishing Product/Garments Losses: Condenser/fibre. Typical figures for the textile material ‘lost’ during each stage of processing. especially in the early days. and blacks obtained from old uniforms.20 Losses: Yarn. A lot of this went back into uniforms producing a complete cycle of use. Finishing 3 . Garments Sorting and Reuse Export Landfill/Incineration Wiping Cloths Flock Manufacturers Paper/Board Mills 29 . Today there are only about ten rag pulling companies left in the UK.10 Making/up 5 . Fabric. gives an idea of the potential for the minimisation and the re-use of what is essentially a feedstock material.

There is also a significant trade in acrylic and hosiery clip off-cuts from the clothing industry and acrylic jumpers from the clothing recycling sector. Typically. Wool and synthetic recovered material (yarn and fabric) can be pulled apart and recycled. that is from the raw fibre up to spinning. Historically this biproduct of the industry has been used for wiping rags and filling materials. Once the yarn is woven or knitted up into a fabric the options for reuse become more limited. what is essentially ‘lost’ fibre is collected and reused in the process. About half of this total is produced by Holland and Germany. This depends on the state of the market for second hand clothes in the developing world as well as that for recycling materials. At the end of this period it is either thrown into a dustbin or if in better condition passed on to a charity shop or clothing recycling bank. Throughout Europe the collection of worn clothing is a well-organised industry. organise house to house collections or buy surplus clothing from charity shops and jumble sales. or increasingly. Recoverable material. Across the whole of Europe the total sorting output is probably in the range 675000 – 750000 tonnes per year. a bi-product of processing and use. whilst UK sorting levels are at about 250000 tonnes per year. but cotton and cotton blend recovered material is a more difficult proposition since the cotton fibre length after pulling is too short for reuse.It is worth noting t at even in these days of increased environmental h awareness. in the UK. is generated at all stages of the life cycle of a fibre. about a million tonnes of textiles are landfilled each year in the UK. Only when a textile has reached this stage can it be truly classified as a waste. Wherever possible in the early stages of processing. The charity shop first removes the cream of the clothes that they receive from the public and then sells the rest on at prices which can vary from nothing up to £250 per tonne (1999). Sorters either collect clothing directly from networks of clothing banks. The average lifetime of a garment is probably about 3 years. the clothing sorted by the garment reclamation industry can be broken down into the following categories :- Cream – as new Second-hand clothing Fibre reclamation Wiping cloths Oddments and rubbish 5% 45% 25% 15% 10% 30 .

£10. Sequence of photographs – Opening bags of donated clothes Sorting into different types from a moving conveyer Checking shirts for wear Grading jackets and trousers for quality 31 . this equivalates to £1. These are sold through charity and ‘second-hand’ shops throughout Europe and can command prices ranging from £2-3 per item up to even £100 or more.The cream percentage accounts for the garments that have hardly been used.000 per tonne (1999).000 .

and this finds its way to the developing third world markets. Most of us when recycling clothes tend to forget to recycle underclothes for many reasons. Wiping cloths are produced after the removal of buttons. These import restrictions are designed to stimulate the domestic industry which processes woollen jackets back into blankets and other useful items of clothing at prices that the ‘home’ market. The remaining fabric can then be utilised as industrial wiping cloths and flocking rags. They are graded from white cotton wipers down to synthetics for use in various industries. The sorting of the clothes is a very labour intensive procedure and requires a significant amount of specialist knowledge. Synthetic fibre 32 . zips. seams and other ‘appendages’. It is interesting to note that because of the Indian Government’s ban on the import of second-hand clothing all clothing sent for fibre reclamation must be mutilated so that it does not find its way into the second-hand trade. Thailand and Malaysia. Africa and Pakistan. can afford. ending up in mattress or upholstery felts. Typically Africa probably takes well over 100000 tonnes per year of this quality of clothing. This sector has somewhat stagnated over the past few years. The main markets for European sorters are the African states. Second-hand handbags. automotive sound absorbency panelling as well as carpet underlay. Today the specialist textile recycler will sort into about 140 different grades. Pakistan and Estonia. but these are in great demand too. Flocking rags are shredded and then sold on for industrial usage as filling materials. Fibre reclamation. which accounts for about a quarter of the clothing sent for sorting consists mainly of woollens and single shade synthetics. More recently. Latvia and Lithuania. A significant market for reclaimed fibre is India. that is Indian. There are many countries involved in this trade. which could scratch or cause damage. belts and shoes also find their way to these developing countries.Bales of clothes awaiting shipment to other countries The second-hand quality accounts for the largest proportion of sorted clothing. different more cost-effective strategies have been introduced to minimise the large amounts of unwanted material generated. The USA and Canada tend to supply South America. whilst Australasia concentrates on trading with Vietnam.

design. and carding machines designed specifically for re-cycled fibres. There are also more cutting. For example in the recycling of carpet waste. and the depolymerisation of consumer waste back to the polyester and nylon monomer are two of the more important developments. which will help to reduce the overall environmental impact of the textile industry. The growth in the world’s population and the spread of wealth is rapidly exacerbating the problem. 33 . The whole concept of product life cycle. and virtually all of it ends up on the yarn. Most developments in textile machinery tend to be in this direction. In order to sustain human life under the present system.production from non-fibre sources such as polyethylene bottle waste and from polypropylene waste. Quick style change systems are also more in evidence. providing greater flexibility in product design. Recent Developments There is always a trend towards increased automation. Instead of using 1000’s of litres at a time these machines use only 10’s of litres. The ordering of spare parts via the Internet has also just been introduced by some machinery manufacturers. Weaving: The on-loom automatic inspection of fabric enables faults to be detected immediately and so helps to minimise waste. Spinning: Recent developments include improved mini-carding sets to help provide more flexibility at lower cost. The need to minimise all waste is more apparent when you consider that :More than 80% of materials are consumed and waste generated by less than 20% of the world’s population. Here are just a few of the more recent developments and trends. Machinery for the moth proofing of woollen yarn has also been improved so that much less liquor is used and wasted. pulling and opening machines available. fashion and the responsibility for re-use have to be reassessed. global environmental efficiency will have to increase by as much as 50 times. A culture built on the idea of wastage needs to be dismantled and a new way introduced. control and speed. with a wider range of uses. and a reduction in labour and manual intervention.

There is also a move towards integrated dyeing/heat recovery systems. Recycling rates of up to 99. which use less water and energy and help to reduce dye cycle times. Another development is hot steam washing which helps to remove contaminants more rapidly than conventional washing. with very low noise production and energy usage. Finishing: Stenters are now sold with heat recovery and abatement systems as part of a complete package. Dyeing and Printing: In dyeing. high solids or dyehouse effluent. Pretreatment: New developments here include turbo-rollers for increasing penetration through fabrics during preparation and washing. In printing there is more of an emphasis on improving productivity with digital processing of designs and digital printing being the next major goal. which monitor and control the use of water and energy have also recently been introduced. raschel and tricot knitting machines have also been developed. Knitting: Multi-effect garments can now be more easily produced. This should replace the slower manual cam changing required on conventional machines.Reduced air consumption. additional spray bars and vacuum slots for more effective dyeing and rinsing are now becoming options to consider. evaporative treatment followed by a secondary polishing stage such as reverse osmosis are becoming an option for those wishing to recycle virtually all of their process water. RF and air/vacuum dryers which allow drying to take place at only 60 C. These help to improve the speed and uniformity of drying.5% have been achieved by some wool scouring units. Reduced noise. or at least drying after yarn/loose stock dyeing. is also another development worth mentioning. Liquor passes through a perforated outer shell with an inner fluted roller. with the introduction of automatic needle changing. Pump powered fill and drain mechanisms. energy and noise on air jet looms and lower weft waste on rapier looms are two more examples of recent improvements which could have an effect on the environmental impact of weaving. For wool scouring. low liquor usage. Revolutionary stenter air circulation systems are also coming on to the market to help reduce the overall energy use in fabric drying. There are even new designs in circular singeing machines to improve the quality of tubular knitted fabric preparation. reel-less jet dyeing machines and jigs with built in padder mangles. produce significant energy savings for the drying of packages and hanks. Fully automated yarn and package dyeing plants. 34 . Highly productive multi-phase weaving machines. there are more developments in combined RF and hot air drying machines.

which saves up to 30% on steam consumption. together with more efficient dust removal have helped to reduce the environmental impact of raising. 35 . Improved bearing systems.Steam agers are also now available with non-uniform steam concentration (low at the front and high at the back). to help reduce energy usage.

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