This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
During the process of blogging the creation of my Raven Guard army – Shadow Force Dragomir – on the Bolter & Chainsword I’ve had a few of requests for a tutorial on how I paint my Marines. As a result I’ve created this tutorial for those interested in how I paint my Raven Guard. The aim for Shadow Force Dragomir has been to paint a playable army within a year so our mantra is 'play, not display!' and our goal is a high quality tabletop miniature to game with. Now, being lazy and an aficionado of good painting/modelling tutorials I'll link you to the B&C Moderator OwlandMoonGuy's excellent pre-painting primer article posted to the Librarium there -Cleaning, Preparing (& Converting) Models instead of taking photos of my preparation and building phases. My prep/assembly process is essentially the same as OMG's so follow his guide and you'll have a good base to work from. If you're new to modelling/painting also take a look at OMG's Common Issues for New Modeller's thread, there are some great tips for beginners in there.
Paint, Mediums & Brushes
Before painting begins I’ll run you through the basic colour recipes I’ll be using and the paints, brushes and mediums that will be involved in the process. Brushes:
A Privateer Work Brush and a Kappel size 0 Kolinsky sable brush will take care of our brush needs for this mini. For the base I usually just grab a beaten and battered old brush for drybrushing the rubble and sand etc. At the end of each painting session I wash my brushes thoroughly, change my water and then use The Master’s Brush Cleaner to make sure that the brushes are kept in tip-top condition.
1 part VMC German Grey to 3 parts Chaos black with just a touch of Foundation Adeptus Battlegrey to tie it to the highlights Gunmetal Blue – approx 7 parts Boltgun Metal to 1 part Blue Ink I also use a 0. Any good art store will have retarder and flow aid available and they should also be able to provide some form of brush soap as well. if you haven’t got acrylic thinners then distilled water or even tap water will do much the same job.Mediums: I use a range of mediums to help me with my painting process. Fig. The retarder helps slow the drying process and is great for doing really simple wet-blending whilst the flow medium helps keep the consistency at the right level and helps the paints flow smoothly from brush to mini.5mm Black Micron Pen .approx. The acrylic thinner is used for thinning obviously. In addition to mixing these mediums with paint on the palette I often add them straight to paint containers to thin them out and make them a little more usable straight from the pot. 2 Mediums Paints: Below is a list of the main paints I’ll be using during this tutorial: Black White Yellow Green Basing Citadel Chaos Black Citadel Badab Black Wash Citadel Black Wash Citadel Foundation Adeptus Battle Grey Citadel Foundation Astronomicon Grey Vallejo Pale Grey Wash Reaper Dragon White Citadel Foundation Calthan Brown Citadel Foundation Tausept Ochre Citadel Foundation Iyanden Darksun Vallejo Game Colour Gold Yellow Vallejo Game Colour Sunblast Yellow Vallejo Model Colour 915 Deep yellow Citadel Foundation Orkhide Shade Vallejo Game Colour Dark Green Citadel Snot Green Citadel Scorpion Green Citadel Foundation Charadon Granite Citadel Foundation Khemri Brown MiG Weathering Powder Industrial City Dirt Citadel Foundation Dheneb Stone MiG Weathering Powder Industrial City Dirt MiG Weathering Powder Standard Rust Custom Colours & Micron Pens I also use two colours that I’ve mixed up myself: Raven Guard Black .
Broad highlights of 'RG Black' Badab Black Wash Fine highlight of 50/50 RG Black/ Adeptus Battlegrey Final highlight of ABG Black lining with Micron pen and/or Black Ink Black wash as required to tone down anything too bright Touch up highlights as required Fig. 4.the first highlight. The picture to the right shows the undercoated miniature with the arms/bolter tacked. your hands aren’t as steady as they used to be it’s nice and easy to tidy up mistakes with the previous step or just start over with Chaos Black if it’s that bad. You can also see here that I've included my basing as part of this prep work. The direction he's looking in is and the angle of the helm are key to that so I've glued it in place right from the start to make sure I carry it through. Fig. I do this regardless of whether or not the base is key to the pose (as it is here) simply so I can hit it with the black spray undercoat so I can work up from there. 3. like the joins and the underside of the mini (See right) with Chaos Black and Badab Black wash. legs and torso onto the base I've then primed the mini with Citadel Chaos Black spray.Pre-Painting Assembly Normally I simply glue the legs and torso of a model together to the base but for this model I’ve also glued the helmet in place so that I can line up the arms & bolter properly when I get around to gluing them on. . 6. They'll be painted separately along with the shoulder pads and backpack. Black Armour Recipe The black armour is painted with 6 main steps: 1. 3 Primed mini Tidy up the primer Having primed the mini and let the primer cure thoroughly my next step is to tidy up any areas the basecoat missed. 5. 2. Having done my prep and glued the head. like me.4 Tidying up the primer That might seem like a lot of steps for a tabletop quality mini but they can all be accomplished fairly quickly if you’re neat and even if. I've done this so that the overall pose of the model (carefully posed to look like he's stepped up to the concrete bar in the foreground when in fact it's a pair of plain old regular Marine legs) maintains the watchful. wary feeling I'm aiming for with the combat squad he’ll be part of. That done I'll wait for everything to dry before moving to the next stage .
The next step will be a thinned wash of Badab Black to tone these broad strokes down a touch. with the RBG mix and then given the eyes a second coat of Calthan Brown and then one of Tausept Ochre. As with deciding where to place the highlights this is much art as science. You can see this is a little untidy at this stage. or even a torch.5 Body Step 1 Body Step 2 Figure 6 shows the black armour after it’s been washed.it just seems easier to judge where those initial highlights should be once everything is highlighted. I've touched up a few areas. The first stage in painting the armour is broad highlights of Raven Guard Black (‘RBG’) on those areas catching the light under your lamp or torch. has been laid down too. Finally an initial layer Astronomicon Grey has been painted on the Aquila. When the wash has dried I’ll touch up the broad strokes anywhere they seem too dark or not quite broad enough. This will allow you to just put the mini on the desk and place your painting light. when I say 'broad' I mean it. I’ve also taken the opportunity to begin blocking in the base colour for the eyes here . Fig.6 Body Step 2 . I find it easier to 'backfill' with black than I do to paint the initial highlights to be honest . It will need another thin coat to get a nice even coverage. using my custom gunmetal blue. The cables on the ankles have been done in VMC Cadmium Maroon Red and the first stage of the metals. this has toned down those first highlights nicely. Fig. there's some white on the armour and the parts of the Aquila needs at least one more layer to provide a nice smooth base to highlight up from. directly above it to figure out where to put your highlights. most painters get better with practice and can eyeball these kind of decisions where you need to decide where needs to be brighter and where darker. the tops of the knees and helmet for example.Body Step 1 For our highlights we’ll imagine a very bright light overhead is striking the mini.thinned Calthan Brown. As you can see.
the helmet ridge and the feet. You can also see why I prefer to go back and fill in the black areas. That means I can work relatively quickly and keep the paint moist (with the help of the retarder medium) so I can adjust the highlights as I go.Adeptus Battle Grey is added to the highest points in a very fine line. Fig. The red cables have had a thinned coat of Red Gore painted over the base coat. All the work so far has been done with the Privateer brush. this is a matter of personal taste and practice but it’s worth noting that for this miniature we’re aiming for quite a subdued feel so I’ve been conservative with this final highlight. so I have good control but plenty of paint so I'm not constantly going back to pot/palette for more. It's a balancing act but. Again. That'll help make sure that my black looks black instead of the dark grey it appears to be now in some places. 7B Body Step 3 Fig. one that isn't too hard at all.Body Step 3 You can see here that I've laid down the second layer of highlights on the armour. 8 Body Step 4 . Here you can see very fine lines of ABG on the tops of the knees. Fig. my hands need a lot of rest to be steady enough to do fine detail so I work the highlights quickly and relatively roughly while my hands are OK but wait 'til my hands are good before going back in with the Kappel brush for the teeny-tiny stuff.and I'll come back to him tomorrow. He'll be left to fully dry overnight . it's about a size 1. 7A Body Step 3 Body Step 4 Here we're at the final basic step of highlighting .the flared area above the heel has a brighter highlight whilst the area behind the left knee isn't as obviously highlighted. This is most obvious on the back of the left leg in Figure 7B . Note that in general this is a 50/50 mix of RBG/but in some places I've added an extra dab of one colour or the other to my mix to give the highest points higher highlights and left the less obvious places with less highlighting.the retarder medium adds to drying times . provided you have good light. So far I'm at about 75 minutes of painting for this guy and the main body of the figure is now coming in to focus. Once dry I'll lay down the fine highlights and then backfill the areas that need to be darker/tidier.
From the back you can see the slight sheen left by the inking.Shading Step 1 Shading a black mini sounds counter-intuitive but Figures 9A and 9B will show what a difference some shading can make even to a black mini. Finally. red and yellows at this stage. I then used the Kappel brush to carefully dark line the recesses between feathers with straight Black Ink. that'll get killed by the Dull Cote that is the last stage of the painting process.9B Shading Step 2 Fig. I've used both my Micron pen and Black Ink here. Fig. still without washing the brush. The base colour is then applied all over the detail in question. they're now at their base levels. They'll be highlighted next and then we'll move on to the arms and backpack. looking at the thigh panels again you can see how I've used the ink to darken the panels but leave the highlights intact around the edges so they stand out more. mid and high tones on your palette. You can also just see the blue and red detailing on the right leg and underneath the helmet targeter respectively. 10A Detail Stage 1 . you can see the difference on the thigh panels quite well in 9A. Fig. Total painting time so far is approximately 2 hours to this point. The pen has been used to darken the panel lines. Without cleaning the brush add some mid colour from your palette and paint on the top half of an imaginary 45 degree line across the detail. Dragon White has been added to the tips of the feathers and the upper half of the eagle body. add the highlight colour on the top edge of that top half. be sure to add a little retarder to each.9A Shading Step 1 Detail Stage 1 Moving on to the first detailing steps the eyes have had some Iyanden Darksun added to the front 2/5ths or so and the back 2/5ths has had two washes of Devlan Mud. The recipe there is simple. The cables have had two coats of very thin Gore Red applied to the upper halves and the metals have had Boltgun metal as a highlight. The Aquila has also been very simply highlighted. only a tiny amount is needed. prepare your base. I've also tidied up the whites. I've also inked in some of the areas I'd over painted with my original broad highlights.
The final step for the base will be weathering powder and highlighting the building rubble and beam. Flash lines and areas of missed base coat also stand out in digital photography for some reason. it's easy when you're painting a model to simply not see issues like this but when on-screen they really stand out. 10B Highlights Basing Stage 1 The base begins with Charadon Granite all over. Fig. This photo also shows that I need to straighten that panel highlight a bit too. I find photos to be pretty useful for spotting this kind of thing I have to admit. The whole base is then washed with thinned Badab Black and straight Devlan Mud to take the whitish edge of the Dheneb and make it look worn and dirty. 11 Basing Stage 1 . following I paint the beam and building rubble Adeptus Battle Grey whilst the sand/rocks/earth were painted with Khemri Brown then given a light drybrush of Dheneb Stone. perhaps because the images are so much larger than real life. The recipes I used for these spot details were: Blue Mordian Blue Ultramarine Blue VGC Magic Blue (Enchanted Blue works just as well) Red VMC Cadmium Maroon Red Red Gore Macharius Solar Orange Fig.If you work quickly over these small areas the paint will essentially wet blend itself and give you nice simple details. you can also see the metal highlights well. here's a close up of the blue on the leg.
13 Bolter & Arms . painted the same way as the armour.the first step is to tack it to a bottle lid so I can paint it without touching it with my fingers and then to touch up any missing areas of primer.5 hours now. as I've said before lenses aren't a strong point of mine despite years of trying to follow GW's recipe and any other I can lay my hands on. Next up will be the backpack and bolter. thus giving a uniform finish to the armour of the Marine. For this lens I've kept things simple and followed the same method as for painting the blue spot details listed earlier. Same steps. same result (hopefully). with muted metallics. Cabling is red to match that on the legs and the metallics are facsimiles of the leg joints. 12 Arms Arms & Bolter Once dry the arms are ready to be added to the Marine. I'm aiming to keep my RG deliberately dark so I've opted for a black case for the bolter. followed by shoulder pads and markings. The joins for the arms were lightly scored with some sandpaper before being glued in place and left to dry. The arms were done in 25 minutes including 5 minutes for the stage by stage snapshots so all up we're just passing 2. The bolter is spiced up a little with a white RG symbol and some bright cartridges in the magazine From side on you can also see the very basic lens I've done for the sight. With the arms done I moved onto the bolter . Fig. Fig.Arms The arms are a microcosm of the black armour.
The black pad has been hit with the 50/50 RBG/ABG highlight at this stage as well. Painting the inset took just a few minutes and it's one of those things that fellow modellers will notice you've taken the time to do. I've added just a touch of colour by painting the panel inset on the pack. Fig. we'll come back and tidy it up later. this gives a nice dark green base to work from as you can see in Figure 15A. it's nothing overwhelming but helps make sure the mini isn't too dark and drab. This is achieved with two thin coats of Foundation Orkhide Shade.my RG Black mix is the first highlight. You can see in Figure 15B that I've used thinned Snot Green over the entire green rim not hidden by the backpack to brighten the colour up and help it stand out more from the black pad without getting too bright and taking away from our subdued look. Fig. 15A Shoulder Pads 1 Fig. just the pads and pack to go. The backpack receives the same highlighting as the rest of the armour. and will appreciate. The right shoulder pad gets a green rim to mark the Marine as belonging to a Tactical Squad. Again. 15B Shoulder Pads 2 .Backpack OK. Again to save my hands I'm fairly liberal with this first highlight. I add the pack at the same time as the pads so I can see where it would obscure the pads from our imaginary lightsource and make sure I don't highlight those areas beyond the basic highlights. The second highlights were applied to the pads before they were attached to the mini along with the backpack. even for a tabletop force. we're at the last stages of painting now. 14 Backpack Inset Shoulder Pads I paint the basic details onto the pads before I add them to the arms simply so that I don't end up splattering paint everywhere trying to reach those hard to reach places that crop up once you put the pack and pads on a mini: One pad is black so gets the standard treatment .
let it dry thoroughly and it will provide plenty of purchase for the decal to be placed there. While that's soaking I use plenty of Micro-Set to wet the area the decal will sit on. to represent dust. Finally I seal by hand with gloss varnish once more and when that's dry I hit it with the Dull Cote matte spray varnish that gives my RG their 'stealth' coating. use a piece of tissue to blot up the worst of the excess Micro-Set and get the decal in the proper place before a final blot to lock it down. Shading & Basing In Figure 16 the pads have received their final. Next I transfer the decal to the mini.straight ABG for the black pad and a 50/50 mix of Snot and Scorpion Green for the green trim. Fig. A touch of Light Rust has been used on the beam. Next I soak the decal in plain old tap water for about 20 seconds. only decals remain. I've then used some Black Ink to tidy up the black trim on the left shoulder and some Badab Black wash to tone down that first highlight on the main areas of the pad.16 Final Details Decals I use Forge World’s excellent Raven Guard decals for Chapter and Squad markings on my Raven Guard. I also make sure to paint over any remaining transparent areas of decal with black. I also trim any excess film from the decal where possible to help with the final fit. 17 Decals . Note that these are applied only to the upper edges and those that would catch the light the most. detritus and debris swirling across the broken planet and settling on the little that remains of the city. again. If the decal isn't quite flat I use a scalpel to 'pop' any bubbles or folds and a nice soft brush dampened with Aero-Set to smooth the wrinkles out. it's all to max out the contrast and make black black and white white. For the RG that means using a fresh scalpel blade to slice between the head and wings on each side and also between the two 'outside' feathers of the wings and finally between the claws and tail feathers. focusing on the bolts and Industrial Earth has been used more liberally on the rest of the base. The green has been shaded by carefully painting two thinned coats of Baal Red wash down the centre of the trim. Fig. Repeat as necessary to obtain a smooth finish. including over the beam itself. I then paint over the RG markings themselves with a few coats of thin VGC Skull White or Reaper Dragon White to keep them really nice and clean and ensure the best contrast with the black (which helps the black look really black as an added bonus). First step is to brush on a gloss varnish over the area(s) to be decal’d. the red darkens the green without making it muddy or dirty like a black wash would. very fine highlight . I strategically cut my decals to help them conform to shapes like shoulder pads.Final Highlight. After that I've shaded the black by using a Micron pen to ink in any panel lines and to give some definition to the area where the pad meets the trim. Finally I've added a very light dusting of MiG weathering powders to the base to give it some depth. This represents the completion of the paint job for our Raven Guard.
Forge World. . illustrations and images from the Warhammer 40. Golden Demon. Space Marine chapter logos. the Inquisitor device. Space Marine. Dark Angels. White Dwarf. Games Workshop logo. Warhammer. Citadel Device. the Chaos devices. the Tau caste designations. Nurgle. TM and/or © Copyright Games Workshop Ltd 2000-2010. Space Hulk. Necron. Space Marine chapters. Dull Cote and all. Tyranid. Genestealer. Ork skull devices. Slaanesh. vehicles. decals. Ultramarines. Keeper of Secrets. and all associated marks. names. Gorkamorka. the Chaos logo. units. Used without permission. No challenge to their status intended. Lord of Change.000 universe are either ®. race insignia. Khorne. Inquisitor:Conspiracies. characters. Cadian. Games Workshop. Sisters of Battle. Blood Angels. Citadel.races. Adeptus Astartes. Warhammer 40k Device. Codex.The Finished Product And here we have the finished product. locations. Daemonhunters. Fire Warrior. Bloodquest. ‘Eavy Metal. All Rights Reserved to their respective owners. the Inquisitor logo. the White Dwarf logo. Eye of Terror. Dark Eldar. Eldar symbol devices. Great Unclean One. variably registered in the UK and other countries around the world. Catachan. Hopefully you’ve found this tutorial of some use and don’t forget to drop by the B&C to show us the results! The Bolter & Chainsword would like to state that this tutorial is completely unofficial and in no way endorsed by Games Workshop Limited. Ork. Tau. Tyrannid. Cityfight. Eldar. Kroot. Inquisitor. Tzeentch.
This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
We've moved you to where you read on your other device.
Get the full title to continue reading from where you left off, or restart the preview.